TIMELESS INSPIRATION
OFF THE MAP Far-flung hideouts and exclusive retreats
ISSUE
60
EXTREME ADVENTURES | NEW-WAVE WELLNESS | RESPONSIBLE LUXURY TRAVEL EDITION
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Moritz Grossmann’s watches have always been something special. By mastering modern craftsmanship we are now taking his visionary spirit to the 21st century.
SCHÖNST E S DEU TSCH E S H A N DW E R K
William & Son, London · Define Watches, Noosa · Juwelier Scholze, Bautzen · Juwelier Eggebrecht, Berlin · Juwelier Reuer, Berlin Tewes Juwelier, Dortmund · Leicht Juweliere, Dresden · Morawitz Juwelier, Düsseldorf · Leicht Juweliere, Hamburg · Juwelier CW Müller, Koblenz · Juwelier Carl Glück, München · Juwelier Windecker, Oberursel · Juwelier OEKE, Weimar · Juwelier Seilnacht, Freiburg Antoine de Macedo, Paris · Moritz Grossmann Japan Co., Ltd., Tokyo · Hirano Watch & Jewelry, Nagoya · Eye Eye Isuzu, Takamatsu Nihombashi Mitsukoshi, Tokyo · Khronos Unique Horlogerie, Kuala Lumpur · Swiss Prestige, Hong Kong · Juwelier Präg, Dornbirn · Al Majed Jewellery, Doha · Juwelier Seiler, Basel · Haute Horlogerie Schindler, Zermatt · Atelier Wassmann, Zug · Caratell PTE Ltd., Singapore GRASSY S.A., Madrid · Pirlant, Bursa · Oster Jewelers, Denver · Cellini Jewelers, New York · Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Dubai www.chrono24.com/moritzgrossmann · www.boutique.grossmann-uhren.com · www.budapester.eu · www.viennaart.net
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Making currency exchange easy The Volopa card streamlines your international travel. You no longer have to search for the best rate, we give it to you. You no longer have to queue at the airport to change currency, you do it on-line or via your phone either before you travel, on your way to the airport or when you arrive at your destination. The service is available 24 / 7, 365 days a year. It’s something you can take off your “list of things to do” before going away. In your own time and when you’re ready simply load your card, convert to your desired currency (any of the 14 currencies the card carries), and you’re ready
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to spend, or withdraw cash from an ATM. It takes as long as it takes for you to enter the numbers into your phone. Your currency is with you, on your card, within seconds. If travelling to a country using a currency outside of the 14 currencies carried, simply load your card with your home currency and we will convert the currency as you spend. Can be used where the Mastercard logo is displayed. The Volopa card is flexible, secure and most of all, far more economic than using your typical bank issued debit or credit cards.
THE ART OF LUXURY CAVIAR Attilus proudly presents an exclusive collection of caviars for food lovers. Handcrafted on the banks of the River Elster, Attilus’s caviar is produced by Siberian and Russain sturgeon, and cleansed with pure artesian water. The precise seasoning process results in an extraordinary taste that is both smooth and luxurios. UK: www.attilus.co.uk EU: www.attiluskaviar.de
CONTRIBUTORS
Juliet Kinsman As former editor-in-chief of the Mr and Mrs Smith hotel guides, Juliet’s knowledge of travel trends is second to none. Read about the luxury industry’s foray into wellness on page 66.
Dominique Afacan As a freelance writer and editor-in-chief at Superyacht Life, Dominique is the woman in the know when it comes to the ocean. On page 70, she explores the evolution of the luxury cruise.
Laura Westmacott Former British ski champion and journalist Laura travels to Austria for a high-octane ski trip with a twist. Discover what she found out about high-altitude wellness on page 58.
Sophie Ball London fashion writer and influencer Sophie jets off to sunny Morocco for an exclusive peek inside the stunning former home of Yves Saint Laurent. Find her story on page 46.
Lauren Burris Hill Travel writer Lauren visits Mozambique to uncover how luxury resorts – and visitors – are giving back to nature through conservation. Read her report on page 40.
Responsibly printed Tempus magazine is printed on FSC-certified paper that’s been sourced in an environmentally friendly, socially responsible and economically viable way. All paper stock can be traced back to the original tree.
Shortlisted for: Editor of the Year – Independent, 2018 Art Director of the Year – Independent, 2018
EDITORIAL TEAM Editor-in-Chief Rachel Ingram rachel@tempusmagazine.co.uk Creative Director Ross Forbes ross@tempusmagazine.co.uk Digital Editor Michelle Johnson michelle@tempusmagazine.co.uk Sub-Editor Dominique Dinse
FROM THE EDITOR
COMMERCIAL TEAM
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h e luxury travel industry is in a state of transition. Extravagant, gilded hotels and private jets are no longer the defining aspirations. Instead, conscious, experience-led travel is becoming the norm – for the older generation as well as millennials. Find out what’s driving this change on page 16. In this special edition of Tempus, we delve into the key trends redefining the travel industry in 2019, from conservation and eco-tourism to wellness and cruising. We also look at the world’s most surprising emerging luxury hubs – from Kaplankaya in Turkey (page 78) to the rebirth of tourism in Colombia and Egypt (page 18) – and present a guide to the destinations you should be visiting this year. For those times when a suite simply won’t suffice, on page 82 we introduce you to the best hotel residences across the globe. And, because we know you need to travel in style, we round up your essential travel accessories on page 12, the top custom superyachts to get you there (page 74) and the watches to accompany you – whether you’re travelling on land, air or sea (page 50). Before we get to that, on page 24 we get some inspiration from four explorers who tell us all about their incredible adventures across the globe and how you can get involved – if you’re brave enough…
Enjoy the issue.
Rachel Ingram
Chairman Floyd Woodrow Managing Director Peter Malmstrom Operations Director Colin Clark colin@tempusmagazine.co.uk Events and Partnerships Director Georgia Peck georgia@tempusmagazine.co.uk REACH OUT Address Tempus Magazine Vantage Media Group 22 South Audley St London W1K 2NY Contact +44 (0) 203 519 1005 info@tempusmagazine.co.uk www.tempusmagazine.co.uk
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Cover image: © Aarunya Nature Resort Photographer: Artem Morozov Article on page: 34
CONTENTS
12 The luxe list Our top 10 must-haves for right now 16 The butterfly effect Why ‘positive luxury’ is the future 18 Back in vogue The surprise destinations at the forefront of luxury travel in 2019 24 Follow the leaders The explorers guiding the world of 21st-century adventuring 34 Rays of light Eco-adventures mean a bright new future for Sri Lanka’s tourism 40 Oceans of plenty How conservation travel is making a splash in Mozambique 44 Into the blue A privileged glimpse inside the former Morocco home of Yves Saint Laurent 48 By air, land and sea The latest trends in watches and timepiece launches 56 Made in England How a bespoke ski craftsman is making fresh tracks in London 58 Peace out Peaks of bliss inside a top Alpine retreat in Austria 62 Snow turning back We journey to Colorado to ski the slopes of the Rockies 66 Natural selection Pampering just got a purpose 70 New horizons The new wave of luxury cruising 74 Buoyant market Custom Italian boatbuilding is turning the ocean into a catwalk 78 A place in the sun Why Kaplankaya is the world’s most exciting emerging destination 82 A world apart The finest hotel residences across the globe 88 Luxury by design Meet the queen of ski chalet design 92 Our little secret Paola Diana lifts the lid on the exclusive world of the luxury concierge 96 Save the Date Mustn’t-miss events of the season
ISSUE 60
Follow the leaders 24
The LUXE LIST Our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal must-haves
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Garrard Wings Embrace Spread your wings with the 15th anniversary collection of House of Garrard’s Wings Embrace collection. From jewelled feathers that wrap around a finger to diamond studded pendants and tassels made from sapphire beads, the elegant collection from the former Crown Jeweller is guaranteed to fly out of boutiques. garrard.com
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Smythson Grosvenor Rotary Watch Box
McLaren Speedtail McLaren’s first-ever Hyper-GT, the Speedtail is the fastest from the marque to date. The futuristic vehicle is one of the most aerodynamic cars ever made – its 1,050bhp hybrid engine can push it from 0-186mph in 12.8 seconds and up to a staggering 250mph. While the initial production run of 106 (each priced at $2.25m) has already sold out, we’re holding out for a second run… mclaren.com
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Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887
As chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy, Breguet’s watches are built to go the distance. Whether you’re sailing the high seas or traversing the city, a Breguet timepiece is a reliable companion. Our favourite model in the Marine collection is the Marine Équation Marchante 5887, a striking piece in platinum or rose gold (retailing at £161,300), whose stunning escapement wheel gives a nod to the suspended marine chronometers of times gone by. breguet.com
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Brain training With mental health increasingly in the spotlight, brain training has become the next big trend in wellness. SHA Wellness Clinic, a state-of-the-art medi-spa on the shores of the Mediterranean in Spain, offers cognitive enhancement therapy where doctors use brainwaves in an innovative, holistic way. Visitors, ranging from stressed city dwellers to business leaders, take part in a personalised programme of cutting-edge treatments designed to heal from the inside out. shawellnessclinic.com
When travelling with your favourite timepieces, protect them with a watch box from British leather goods manufacturer Smythson. Our favourite piece is the Grosvenor, made from luxurious calf leather and lined with a nubuck finish. As well as space for two watches and five sets of cufflinks, it contains a rotary mechanism to keep timepieces fully wound wherever in the world your travels take you. symthson.com
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The Lanesborough Dandy Trunk The modern jetsetting gentleman will find an elegant travel companion in The Lanesborough Dandy trunk by TT Trunks. An exceptional piece of British craftsmanship with clever compartmentalisation for all of your travel essentials, the trunk was created in partnership with London’s prestigious The Lanesborough hotel. It’s available through Eden Being, a subsidiary of Oetker Collection, for £34,555. edenbeing.com
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Four Seasons Heli-ski Safari If you’re a keen skier, chase the powder with a private helicopter safari by Four Seasons. Each day, your ski concierge will assess the snow conditions and direct the pilot where to fly –this could be the glaciers of Val d’Isère, the snowy bowl of Flaine or the trails of Les Trois Vallées. Make an entrance for lunch at a mountaintop restaurant or opt for a private, catered picnic on the slopes. At the end of the day, retire to Four Seasons Hotel Megève on the Mont D’arbois slopes. Safaris start at £1,150 per night. fourseasons.com
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The Private Suite
Flying commercial doesn’t have to be taxing when flying from London Heathrow. If you’re in business class or above on any airline, get the private jet experience with membership at The Private Suite, an exclusive terminal that offers all the perks of flying private – a comfortable room to relax in, special security screening, direct transfer to the plane Piguet in a BMW 7 Series Outrage Sedan, and suchlike – without the Audemars Diamond pricetag of hiring a jet. If you’re flying Stateside, suites are also available at LAX and JFK. theprivatesuite.com
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Oceanco Bravo Eugenia It’s difficult to call superyachts eco-friendly, but if there were one boat to bear this moniker, it would be Oceanco’s Bravo Eugenia. Designers at the Dutch shipyard used aerodynamics and innovative engineering to halve the 109m vessel’s fuel use, making it one of the most eco-conscious, fuel-efficient boats to set sail in the past year. It’s just one example of Oceanco’s new generation of forward-thinking yachts – and we can’t wait to see what they come up with next. oceancoyacht.com
10 Six Senses Bhutan
Bhutan is tipped as one of the hottest travel destinations for 2019 and Six Senses is ahead of the curve with five luxury lodges openings this year in Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, Bumthang and Paro. To fully discover the natural and cultural charms of the Kingdom, book a 14-night programme and visit all locations in one go – the itinerary is packed full of handson activities and local excursions. sixsenses.com
THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT Diana Verde Nieto, CEO of mindful luxury platform Positive Luxury, shares how Generation Less is changing the way we buy, dine and travel
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e’ve all heard so much about Millennials and Gen Zs and how they want to change the world. But we’ve forgotten that people in their 40s, 60s and even 80s have those same motivations and desires. Generation Less is a mindset – we all want to be part of the conversation and actually have a positive impact, not just in the world but in our vocation. The reality is that younger generations feel more empowered to make these differences because they’ve been a lot more interconnected at a younger age, thanks to the digital world. One phenomenon we found in our recent report, Generation Less, is the fact that although we often paint a negative picture of how younger entrepreneurs are demanding and hard to work with, older generations actually want the same things. For example, travel is one area where younger generations have instilled the ‘millennial mindset’ in their parents. Today, we’re seeing older generations taking extravagant round-the-world, trip-of-a-lifetime sabbaticals, exploring in entirely new ways, which is wonderful. As we all become more empowered, it affects brands in every sector. Our focus is shifting from how much we can have and what we own, to this hunger for valuable experiences – from materialism to dematerialism – and that shows in everything from travelling abroad to shopping for clothes. People want to be challenged, to have something unique and to have transparency in making their choices. I think in the past we focused too much on an expectation of perfection. To be considered sustainable, a brand needed to
be perfect, to be 100% correct in every aspect. People are only now realising that total perfection doesn’t really exist, and that sustainability is about a journey. It’s about celebrating the steps that brands are making towards this goal, and how these positive impacts are accumulating slowly but consistently. From a retailer’s perspective, Selfridges is one of the best examples in terms of how its buying strategy is increasing impact. The department store actively curates products and brands that enable people to buy better and with more transparency, and that influences its brands to look at their own supply chains. That’s why we awarded Selfridges the Butterfly Mark – Positive Luxury’s interactive mark that enables people to know at a glance that this brand is making a positive impact on the world. In terms of travel, Hotel Café Royal in London also has the Butterfly Mark at point of booking, because you can really see where the hotel is investing and the kind of place in which you’re going to be spending your time. Further afield, SALT Resorts and Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas also have the Butterfly Mark. In fa ct, more and more hotel and hospitality brands are joining us, because they have a double impact – not just physically in terms of how they conduct their businesses, but thanks to how they educate their guests and work with local communities. We’ve awarded the Butterfly Mark to more than 100 brands across beauty, fashion, travel, premium drinks and jewellery – including Christian Dior, Dom Perignon, IWC Schaffhausen, Aromatherapy Associates – all of whom are going beyond minimal sustainable practises to make a real impact on people and the planet. And the thing that excites me most is that this is not going away. Sustainability is here to stay. positiveluxury.com
COLUMN
Hotel CafĂŠ Royal is the proud owner of a Butterfly Mark
BACK IN VOGUE These destinations have beaten the odds to become this year’s most surprising luxury travel destinations Words: Michelle Johnson
FORECAST
Left: Return to nature in Rwanda’s impressive Volcanoes National Park Above: Le Sereno St Barth’s is welcoming guests back to the Caribbean
W GONE ARE THE DAYS WHERE A TRADITIONAL SUNSHINE BREAK INVOLVED
PLONKING YOURSELF DOWN ON A SUNBED IN
YOUR PRIVATE OCEAN VILLA IN THE MALDIVES
hen it comes to this year’s top luxury travel destinations, don’t expect to see the usual suspects on any expert’s list. While exclusivity has been the most steadfast trend of recent years, wealthy holidaymakers are now turning the tables and actively seeking out unique experiences in some very surprising locations. Gone are the days where a traditional sunshine break involved plonking yourself down on a sunbed in your private ocean villa in the Maldives. Instead, a new wave of extraordinary global destinations is rising from the ashes in countries that, just a few short years ago, might have been considered a last resort at best. And as travellers in the know are consistently demanding unique experiences from their holidays, these unexpected treasures are meeting the demand with world-class aplomb, combining five-star quality with a focus on community that allows guests to truly immerse themselves in these inspiring areas of rejuvenation, and discover these very special destinations anew. Here, we put a spotlight on the most exciting – and surprising – destinations to add to your 2019 travel itinerary. »
COLOMBIA | INTO THE WILD Exclusivity, privacy, opulence and adventure? A rising tide of experts are heading to a hitherto unexplored part of South America for bespoke escapes that tick every box. For 50 years, Colombia has been largely off limits due to civil war, which officially ended in 2016. But now its capital – the once-infamous Bogóta – is being tipped as the next city break destination. The Athens of South America, Bogóta boasts a historic old town, buzzing cafes and bars, and brilliant museums such as the Museo del Oro, which contains more than 34,000 pieces of pre-Hispanic gold. But away from the city lights, this biodiverse country’s incredible venture into sustainability and eco-tourism is the reason it’s making headlines. In 2018, it launched a Partnership for Sustainable Growth with the UK to help tackle climate change, and expanded its official conservation policy to protect 109,000 sq miles of untouched Amazon Rainforest. Colombia is on course to be one of the world’s first – and best – sustainable tourism hubs. As a result, a plethora of new eco-friendly lodges and guided safaris have become available, and it’s easy to see the appeal. The Colombian Amazon is home to a world record 1,826 species of birds, rare orchids, mammals, insects and more, making it an alluring escape for nature lovers. One such lodge is boutique hotel Cannúa, an 18room mountainside property in the protected forests of Antioquia, just 90 minutes from cultural capital Medellín. Opening in April, Cannúa promises its guests the ultimate in authentic local experiences. “We have been committed to a holistic approach to sustainability in every aspect of Cannúa’s development, from its design and building principles to its social responsibility,” said Cannúa CEO Nathan Rodgers. “We are dedicated to the creation of economic and employment opportunities for the surrounding community and are planning to provide guests with opportunities to visit local ‘fincas’ ( farms) and experience the warmth and charm of the incredible people of Colombia first-hand.” One of the best ways to traverse this unique country is via a private jet holiday, designed by the likes of Abercrombie & Kent, whose expert team specialises in organising experiential retreats on another level.
This page: Boutique hotel Cannúa is just one of Colombia’s eco-friendly hotels Opposite: Rwanda is the hot tip for sustainable safari in 2019
FORECAST
RWANDA | BACK TO NATURE Across Africa, big game spotting is reaping the rewards of a wild new makeover. While popularism and poaching threatened to make this traditional retreat a relic of times past, luxury safaris across the continent are now driving sustainability, conservation and community engagement, revitalising not just the safari adventure but the towns and villages that surround the reserves. Despite the incredible choice available, it’s Rwanda that’s proving the most exciting tip for 2019. The country’s three national parks – Nyungwe Forest, Akagera and Volcanoes – are designated conservation areas with a remarkable diversity of wildlife, including giraffes, elephants, and chimpanzees. There’s also a growing population of lions, thanks to a pioneering reintroduction and breeding programme to combat the loss of Rwanda’s native big cats. Most exciting of all, explorers can – permits permitting – trek the impressive Virunga Volcanoes alongside magnificent rare mountain gorillas. “Gorilla trekking is definitely the thing that puts Rwanda on travellers’ radars,” says Richard Butler, expedition leader at bespoke travel company TCS World Travel. “Watching these peaceful giants munch leaves, groom each other and play makes people realise how closely we are related.” Another rewarding reason to travel to Rwanda is to experience the country’s remarkable rise from past tragedy. The country underwent an intense period of reconciliation and justice following civil war and the 1994 genocide, introducing a monthly day of service and a pledge to become a world leader for women’s empowerment – 30% of parliamentary seats are reserved for women, a figure that is routinely exceeded. “The way Rwanda has bounced back is a bright light attracting travellers from around the globe,” says Butler. “The steps the country has taken to bring its citizens together, like the monthly day of service and women’s empowerment, are both uplifting and extraordinary.” »
This page: Le Sereno, St Barth’s, is just one of the Caribbean’s newly reopened resorts
THE CARIBBEAN | A PHOENIX RISES If a beach break is more your speed, then a return to the Caribbean is long overdue. After a hard recovery from two Category 5 hurricanes in 2017, Irma and Maria, the region is working hard to let us know its back open for business for 2019. What’s more, the extraordinary rebuilding efforts and support from across the globe has given these idyllic islands a new lease of life. It’s not just sun, sea and sand that visitors can enjoy, but a genuine sense of community at some of the world’s best resorts. The award-winning Secret Bay in Dominica reopened its intimate resort in November, following restoration of six sustainable villas and the opening of a new yoga pavilion and a restaurant, Zing Zing. It has also reemphasised its pledge to hire local employees, purchase regional produce and support Caribbean artisans. In glamorous St Barth’s, Le Sereno has brought a stylishly cosmopolitan vibe to its own renovation and reopening in late 2018, allowing open-air architecture to let the island’s ocean views do the talking. The small island is renowned as the Caribbean’s culinary capital and, says Sereno Hotels president Luis Contreras, its ongoing rebuild is a truly island-wide community effort. “We are a small island and relations with our neighbours and the larger community are very important,” says Contreras. “The leadership shown by President Bruno Magras and the team from the local government was instrumental. I am sure that this leadership is also what made other entrepreneurs, hotels and businesses decide to reinvest to make the island even better than it was before Hurricane Irma.”
FORECAST EGYPT | A KINGDOM RETURNS One of the four cradles of civilisation, Egypt has always exuded glamour, intrigue and style to everyone from history buffs to Elizabeth Taylor fans. But since the Arab Spring and political revolution of 2011 this once traditional sunshine escape has seen a significant slump in tourism. After seven years of instability, thanks to massive investment from government and hospitality groups, Cairo is back on the map and lighting up every expert’s wish list. Luxury tours of the North African country still visit such wonders of the world as the Great Pyramids of Giza and offer Pharoah-worthy Nile cruises with an Egyptologist on hand. More intriguing, though, is the regeneration of this ancient city itself. This year will see the metropolitan capital celebrate a partial opening of the billion-dollar Grand Egyptian Museum, the world’s largest archaeological museum which will exhibit the full Tutankhamun collection for the first time in history, as well as using the latest virtual reality technology for other displays. “This will be the museum of the 21st century,” says museum director general Tarek Tawfik. “To have a building that harmonises well with these pyramids and provides, for the next generation of young Egyptians, a place where they can really get to know the roots of the civilization of their history – this is something fantastic.” Visitors can also be among the first to experience the new wave of luxury hotels opening in or near the city this year. The opulent Michael Graves-designed St Regis Cairo opens in 2019, as does Africa’s first ever Waldorf Astoria hotel, following an ambitious restoration programme. If there’s a common thread among this year’s emerging luxury destinations it’s how, whether recovering from political upheaval or natural disaster, each has risen above previous difficulties. With luxury business investments and government pledges, many countries around the world are pulling ahead of the pack to explore what makes them unique and then sharing that with the world. Whether they are leaders in sustainable travel or history and culture, these destinations are guaranteed to shake up the luxury travel market as they continue to make headlines – for all the right reasons.
THE BUCKET LIST We asked some of this issue’s intrepid contributors where their next passport stamp is coming from
BEN FOGLE BROADCASTER AND ADVENTURER “I haven’t really explored China much, so I’d quite like to do that, but in an immersive way – walk the Great Wall of China and spend some proper time there. I’d also quite like to do a proper family adventure one day.”
HAZEN AUDEL PRESENTER AND BIOLOGIST “I’ve really always wanted to go to the Congo. There are some particular kinds of animals there, snakes that I really want to see in real life. Like the Gaboon viper. Man, they have the longest fangs of any snake in the entire world. They’re really cool.” Below: With a wave of new hotels, museums and Nile cruises, Cairo is back open for business
JUSTIN PACKSHAW ENTREPRENEUR AND ADVENTURER “Marianas Trench– having criss-crossed much of this magnificent world of ours I am now keen to explore under the sea a bit and would love to start with taking a submarine down to the deepest part of our oceans.”
JULIET KINSMAN TRAVEL WRITER AND EDITOR “On my bucket list for this year is Bhutan. More than anything, I want to experience the soul-stirring spirit and untouched landscape of the unique kingdom.”
FOLLOW THE LEADERS From the trailblazers to the extreme adventurers and philanthropists, Tempus speaks to the pioneering personalities setting the pace for experiential travel in 2019 Words: Rachel Ingram
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scapism is the buzzword in luxury travel right now. Once-in-a-lifetime experiences; extreme and dangerous expeditions hosted by record-breaking explorers; unchartered destinations that can only be reached via jet, helicopter or boat; back-to-basics living-in-the-wild with the locals… these kinds of experiences have surpassed the desire of gilded hotels and branded resorts. In the world of continuous accessibility and cookie-cutter holidays, the truly unique is growing in value. Such adventures come with a price tag, but those who choose to invest can return with more than a beautiful Instagram album – they often come back with a fresh perspective and a renewed sense of self that can have life-changing consequences. Henry Cookson is a prime example. As a London banker, he found himself disillusioned with life in the capital and joined a trip to the Arctic. Back in London, he swapped his briefcase for a backpack and journeyed through Antarctica, Alaska and Africa, before returning home to found a company that helps people like himself break out of their comfort zones and experience life-affirming expeditions across the globe. Another is Hazen Audel, who went backpacking in Ecuador and ended up living for months with a local family, learning how to live off the land. He now hosts a television show on National Geographic where he visits some of the world’s most remote communities and reports back on how they survive in extreme conditions. Often, all it can takes is the right kind of push to go from zero to hero. And who better to inspire you than the pioneers of hands-on, back-to-nature, dice with death for the adrenaline rush, travel. Here, four leading adventurers give Tempus an insight into their wild worlds. »
An eye-opening trip to Ecuador changed Hazen Audel’s life forever
EXPLORE
HAZEN AUDEL Pioneer of primal travel
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ravellers aren’t looking to visit museums and sights as they once did. Instead, they want to explore local neighbourhoods, meet native people and experience authentic life. It’s this that viewers get a glimpse of in Hazen Audel’s National Geographic TV show, Primal Survivor: Most Extreme. While Steve Irwin hunted crocodiles and Bear Grylls puts his own survival skills to the test, Audel immerses himself in local communities. As a biologist and survival instructor, Audel has long been fascinated by nature. His journey started during a camping trip to Ecuador as a student, when he was taken in by some locals – for his own safety, he claims. Two weeks turned into seven months of learning their way of life and living off the rainforest. Returning home, he realised there’s a lot that western culture can learn from his experience, not just in terms of sustenance and medicine, but also community and finding contentment. A new life mission was born. Fast forward a few years and Audel is celebrating a fourth season as host of Primal Survival: Most Extreme. The series sees Audel travel to some of the most extreme places on Earth to discover how the locals live, before venturing out on his own in often harsh and unforgiving environments. As the show airs in the UK, Audel speaks to Tempus about his most memorable adventures.
Tempus: Why is it so important to document the lives of these remote communities? Hazen Audel: What I get to see is very precious. The world is changing incredibly rapidly, so if I’m not there today it’ll be lost tomorrow. These people know information that’s valuable to us as human beings, from plants and where to get food, to the power of living together as units, as tribes. I’m fortunate that I have a television show so I get to show the rest of the world how amazing these people are. I hope I can broadcast some of that information; viewers might be able to learn something. What have you learnt from your time spent with tribes? I’ve learned that we don’t need to be that ‘awesome’ if we put all of our energy into our communities. When I go into a tribe, there’s no one self-made person who has it all figured out. They have their whole family there, so they don’t need to be a superhero or be better than anybody else. I think that’s what we’re really lacking in western culture. The idea of self-growth is insatiable, but if we can learn to value our communities and get empowerment from the people who appreciate us, it gives us the self-esteem that we need. Was there one particular village or community that really inspired you to think this way?
IN COLLABORATION WITH ONE OF OUR CLIENTS, WE’RE FUNDING SOME
POTENTIALLY GROUNDBREAKING ORCA RESEARCH IN THE ANTARCTIC
Yes, in Vanuatu. I loved that I could be in a village where everybody was uniquely different. There’s the strapping young fisherman who brings home the food. Then you’ve got women who care for the children and take care of the gardens and make sure that there’s function, sustainability and normalcy in the household. You’ve also got the men who are out there, sacrificing themselves for the betterment of the community. Every person has their role and they work together so effectively. Tell us more about some of the most challenging places that you visited? The most physically challenging was Vanuatu because it rained the entire time. The mud was relentless. We all had serious infections. The film crew were crippled with trench foot and couldn’t walk; it was tearing us apart. But we can reflect on how happy the people were despite the demanding environment they live in. Kenya was another extreme. It’s the hottest place on Earth. The sun is fierce and there’s no water. To see how hard it is to
survive out there was horrifying, but to the people who manage to live in these communities, they’re havens. Is there one destination that really touched your heart? I’m really thankful for China. I was struggling with things in my personal life when I went there and the people and the landscapes were like medicine to me. I really found happiness again in China. What lessons have you brought back to your own life from travelling? I’ve learned that personal reputation is huge. There are tribal people who just reek of character. They’re the leaders, and being a leader is their wealth. Their inner strength is what gives them so much value as a good father, mother or elder. They make good decisions for the benefit of the community. Being a westerner, our role models are people that are intangible – they’re a rapper or a movie star, they’re not our grandpas or neighbours anymore, which is saddening. What can travel teach us about wellness? Travel forces you to look at, and re-evaluate, the direction that you’re taking in your life. If you’re humble you can start to see that there are a lot of people who live very different lives than us, but often they have something we don’t have – that might be contentment. If you’re travelling for selfdevelopment, you can find mentors in the most unassuming places. It may be an old lady on the street corner – it’s not the yogi that we pay to visit every Saturday. What’s your biggest piece of advice? The biggest thing is to be really humble. You can go to a third-world country and have such pity for them because they don’t have what we have in the west, but be open minded and you will see how happy a lot of these people are. Many of them have things that they can teach us, too. You might not be able to speak the language, but a smile will take you a million miles. » Primal Survivor: Most Extreme airs on National Geographic on Thursdays at 8pm. Watch it on catchup TV via Sky, BT, Virgin Media and Talk Talk. For more, visit nationalgeographic.co.uk
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HENRY COOKSON Leader in curated adventure travel
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f you have a personal trainer taking care of your fitness, an accountant handling your finances and a housekeeper maintaining your home, why not hire an expert to organise your holidays? A leading explorer with global connections can get you those seemingly unattainable experiences that no regular travel agency could. This is what Henry Cookson thought when he founded Cookson Adventures, a travel company that curates itineraries for high-net worth explorers. A prime example of the transformational power of travel, Cookson’s adventure began with a trip to the Arctic in 2005. A London banker at the time, he joined a group of equally inexperienced explorers for a 360-mile race to the magnetic north pole. Against all odds, and competing against experienced teams, his team won. In 2016, they reunited with a new challenge, reaching the ‘pole of inaccessibility’ in the Antarctic by foot – they’re now in the Guinness Book of Records for their achievement. These trips and the nature he saw on his travels inspired him to devote his life to making a difference – both for people and for nature. Back in London, Cookson left his banking job and founded Cookson Adventures, which organises completely customised, bespoke trips. But that doesn’t mean everything has to be high-octane, high-risk, hanging off a cliff face, freezing your toes off adventuring – his connected team can organise anything the client desires. And while Cookson Adventures isn’t the first such agency to offer such services, knowing that Cookson himself is behind it certainly gives it an upper hand. We sit down to talk to Cookson about his current project, a research trip that’s taking a team of scientists to assess a very special kind of orca in the Antarctic.
IN COLLABORATION WITH ONE OF OUR CLIENTS, WE’RE FUNDING SOME
POTENTIALLY GROUND-BREAKING ORCA RESEARCH IN THE ANTARCTIC
Tempus: Why is it so important to you to be involved with conservation projects? Henry Cookson: I don’t like people? [laughs] No, growing up in the countryside, I’ve always had an affinity with animals and nature. I grew up spending my summers in Greece where dolphins would be jumping out of the water every day. You don’t see it now. You don’t get the birds singing like they used to because they just don’t have the numbers. When I started to travel to more exotic, amazing places and hearing the stories of the indigenous tribes who’ve lived in the same place for generations, they say the weather’s changed, the climate’s changed, we don’t get the same whale populations any more… it’s all unbalanced. Humanity is exploding, thanks to our never-ending quest for materialism. Everyone is striving for the happiness that consumer goods can give them. It’s sucking the life out of our planet. We need to change our ways, but at the moment we’re a bit too comfortable. Something needs to give. How are you trying to inspire change through your work with Cookson Adventures? Opinions are changing but change needs a starting shot. There are two ways that catalyst comes. First, when there’s an event so horrific that we just have to wake up – we’re starting to see that with all the recent fires, hurricanes and typhoons. Alternatively, you get these very interested, influential, powerful people who maybe can be part of that catalyst. The people that can really make that change are the true innovators creating the wealth right at the top. They’ve got the resources. Just as I was affected and impassioned by my earlier explorations, if we can take them to a place, we don’t have to do a hard sell, we can just show them. We introduce them to the locals, our researchers, our NGOs and our conservationists, so they get it from the horse’s mouth. Then, if we can get these people on board, and their children who take over, perhaps we can start making that difference that’s so urgently needed. Are you finding that people are very responsive to this? They are. I think you got to be almost dead inside to not want to be involved with some of the things we
see. For instance, when you’ve got eight humpbacks working together and leaping out of the ocean at the same time as they’re bubble feeding – if you don’t feel affected by that, and feel moved to try and preserve that, then we haven’t got a chance. You recently returned from Svalbard, the most northerly populated island in the world. What’s so special about this place? There are these bird cliffs with about a million breeding couples of guillemots flying around and diving into the water. If you go snorkelling there, there are hundreds of birds swimming around underwater. It’s such an unusual sight. The next stop from Svalbard is the north pole, so you get polar bears on the ice cap hunting seals and walrus. Sadly, every season you have to go further and further north to get to the edge of the icecap. There’s a bit of a good news story at Svalbard, though, because whales are coming back following the whaling ban. They’ve been spotting blue whales and humpbacks there. What’s the most exciting project that you’re currently working on? In collaboration with one of our clients, we’re funding some potentially ground-breaking orca research in the Antarctic. You see lots of amazing species down in the Antarctic, but orcas are one of the less likely things you’ll see. For us, if we work with the world’s top researchers and fund their research, we’ve then got them on board as experts and it increases our chances of our guests seeing this extraordinary orca behaviour. There’s a return of investment in the fact that the guests get to see orcas. It might also inspire them to get involved in further conservation projects. So we’re doing good, and it provides an additional element to the client’s enjoyment and, also, hopefully solidifies their passion for nature and saving our planet. I’ve been trying to get this going for the past four years; it’s just been waiting for the right client. Everything aligned for this year – they’re actually down there this year. Hopefully we’ll hear some exciting news very soon. » cooksonadventures.com
JUSTIN PACKSHAW Innovator in philanthropic travel
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ustin Packshaw wears many hats: soldier, sailor, adventurer, businessman, philanthropist – he’s constantly adding more strings to his bow. The Briton lives by the mantra penned by the German poet Goethe: “Whatever you believe you can do, or dream you can do, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it.” It’s this that inspired him to plan his most extreme adventure to date – kitesurfing 3,600 miles across the Atlantic Ocean from the west coast of Africa to the British Virgin Islands in early 2021. The aim of the challenge goes beyond personal ambition – Packshaw plans to use the trip to raise awareness and funding for initiatives tackling plastic in the ocean. It’s just one of the many missions he’s organised in the name of charity – his most recent was an expedition to the south pole that raised £1.2m for the Prince’s Trust and The Roundhouse Trust. When Packshaw’s not sailing the high seas with the Volvo Ocean Race, climbing a cliff face or traversing a snowscape, he chairs travel company Joro Experiences, runs luxury brand De Roemer and inspires others in motivational talks. Tempus finds time within his busy schedule to find out more.
Tempus: Justin, why on earth have you decided to kitesurf across the Atlantic? Justin Packshaw: As with all good ideas, this was conceived while having a beer with kindred spirits a year ago. I’ve spent a lot of time in the polar regions recently so it seemed like high time to head back to my first love, the sea. I am doing it with a good chum of mine, Charlie Pitcher, a fellow sailor for Britain. It’s a complex project. Our biggest hurdle is making sure that we have the right weather throughout the crossing, so we are looking at how best to optimise this. How are you preparing for the challenge? We are both going to have to be as fit and robust as possible. At our age, we’ll have to train smart and hard, but that’s half the fun. Core strength and agility are key and, as we will be trying to cross the Atlantic as fast as possible, it is imperative that we work on our endurance, too. We will be doing very little sleeping. Navigation and weather analysis will be a crucial part of the success of the crossing. We are also developing a cutting-edge craft. There are a lot of moving parts in this exciting adventure and getting them moving well together is the key. Good practice will be my upcoming 60-day kitesurfing expedition across Antarctica via the ‘pole of inaccessibility’. What is a ‘true adventure’ to you?
I AM MOST PROUD OF THE EXPEDITIONS WHERE WE’VE TAKEN WOUNDED SOLDIERS FROM MY OLD REGIMENT WITH US
To me, adventure means stepping out of your comfort zone and breaking from monotony. It means confronting risk and challenging yourself. If the thought of what you’re about to do doesn’t leave you with butterflies in your stomach – whether that be due to excitement or fear – then you’re not doing it right. I live by the adage that you only have one life and it’s imperative that you pack it in. Live hard, give it your best shot, give something back, have great fun and try and do things that make you happy and fuel your soul. All my experiences as a soldier, a professional sailor, a keen adventurer and business owner, have highlighted to me that everything is possible – you just have to believe. What has been your most memorable adventure so far? I am most proud of the expeditions where we’ve taken wounded soldiers from my old regiment in the British Army, The Royal Dragoon Guards, with us. Two particular trips stand out for me – one where we retraced part of Captain Scott’s epic 1912 race to the south pole against Roald Amundsen, and another when we recreated Ernest Shackleton’s phenomenal rescue of his crew from Elephant Island on the Antarctic Peninsula in 1914. Both
were huge journeys, emanating from extraordinarily inspirational and brave explorers. The soldiers who joined us, while injured, were full of humility, grit and had a can-do attitude that is remarkable – they don’t see their injuries as any kind of hindrance. They also had a stunning sense of humour, which was much needed at times. Why is it so important for you to give back? I have always been a passionate advocate for raising awareness and money for important causes, from empowering the less fortunate to reach their potential, to protecting the environment. We all need to try and make a positive difference in life, no matter how big or small. It is all about belief in yourself, belief in the world around you and belief in a cause. I have long thought that there is a powerful and effective link between ‘human endeavour’ and effective philanthropy as it seems to ignite the individual’s imagination and desire to want to make a difference. I think this is particularly relevant within the commercial sector and most of my fundraising has been done here, underpinned by bright and successful business minds and leaders and their progressive organisations. What do you think businesspeople can learn from extreme travel? There is a much greater link between business and travel than one might imagine. Both start with a dream and belief, and both involve a huge amount of planning and preparation underpinned with supreme diligence. But their overall success will ultimately come down to grit, resilience, persistence, patience, humility, respect and luck. Extreme expeditions are an incredible backdrop to show individuals and teams what their true potential is. More often than not, it will ignite something in them which will have a dramatic effect on their outlook at work. How does your travel company, Experiences, help people do this?
Joro
We exist to help people find different ways of discovering the world through experiences tailored to their interests and motivations. Yes, we can take you to the end of the earth to search for polar bears, but we can also map out a treasure hunt for your children across the Greek Isles or dream up a honeymoon that revolves around more than a beach. Everybody has something that makes them tick – our task is to create an adventure that makes each one of our clients feel truly alive. » justinpackshaw.com joroexperiences.com deroemer.com
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BEN FOGLE Captain of immersive cruising
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o place Ben Fogle in the ‘celebrity adventurer’ box would be unfair. Yes, his bread and butter may come from presenting roles, but there’s more to him than glossy-format television shows. Fogle is incredibly passionate about wildlife and the environment. He’s worked on myriad shows highlighting wildlife migration, charity work, isolated societies and more. He’s also a keen conservation activist, holding positions such as UN Patron of the Wilderness, and an ambassador for the WWF, among other such organisations. When it comes to adventuring, he’s got the experience to back up his expertise. He took part in the 2005-2006 Atlantic Rowing Race, during which he successful crossed 3,000 miles of the ocean with his race partner Olympian James Cracknell. More recently, in May last year, he completed a lifetime aspiration and reached the summit of Mount Everest. Upon returning to ground level, Fogle set upon a mission with Celebrity Cruises to create immersive itineraries for guests of its new, luxury Celebrity Edge ship, which made its maiden voyage last December. He hopes that by introducing guests to nature through immersive land excursions, he’ll encourage people to care more for the planet and the wildlife they encounter. Tempus speaks to Fogle about what people can expect from his curated itineraries.
IT’S A FORM OF ESCAPISM... WHEN YOU’RE IN THE MOMENT, EVERYTHING ELSE DISAPPEARS
Tempus: What’s the idea behind your itineraries for Celebrity Cruises? Ben Fogle: The idea was to really bring the destinations to life. Obviously, a lot is said about Celebrity’s ships themselves and the incredible facilities they have, but they wanted to make the destination as memorable as the ship. I’ve been to more than 100 places and have a very good understanding of destinations all around the world, so I was brought on board to enhance the whole experience. My input has been to create an immersive experience that’s out of the ordinary. What do you mean by immersive travel? I hate to use the social media metaphor, but a lot of people want an experience that they can share on Instagram that’s more than just them standing in front of an incredible building. I think that the days of literal travel where you just travel to Paris and look at the Eiffel Tower are still very much there, but people increasingly are looking for more immersive experiences that they can take home. This could be physically having something you can take home, such as something that you found while panning for gold in Alaska or making a beautiful clay pot in Rome. It’s more lasting than an image. How have opinions of cruising changed in recent years? I think you’ll see a real shift in people’s attitudes and opinions of the cruise market over the next few years. There are quite a few new ships coming in and the levels of luxury are going up. I think you’ll see an increase in popularity, particularly within younger seafaring families and couples. People are going against air travel as they’re looking for a slightly slower form of travel. When I say, slower I don’t mean it literally takes a very long time to get anywhere, but the fact that you don’t need haste. It’s not all about having everything instantly.
It’s a form of escapism. It’s a way of leaving social media 24 hours a day, of being on call, of answering emails, of being overwhelmed by information and technology. It’s like describing cruise ships as a slow holiday. When you’re in the moment, everything else disappears. Is there one itinerary you’ve worked on that you’re most excited by? Alaska is a highlight. It’s often described as the last free wilderness. There is something so exciting about reaching places where no one else gets. You can’t get to Icy Point Strait, for instance, unless you’re on a ship – there’s literally no other way to get there. You’re in a unique location in the first place, but the shore excursions stand out as they’re something that you’ll never be able to do anywhere else. Going out whale watching and witnessing humpback whales breaching right in front of our boat is just incredible. To see that from such a tiny boat, and against the backdrop of Alaska with its huge snowy glaciers dipping into the water, is so exciting. What makes your excursions so unique? It’s all about getting as close to nature as you can. You can go bear watching in very large groups, but the one we have through Tongass National Forest in Alaska is just a much smaller group which involves a little bit of physicality, not a huge amount. A lot of people might assume because of the things I’ve done that they might all be very physically intense, but actually, we’ve tried to come up with things that are low impact. Kayaking is something an eight-year-old can do or an 80-year-old can do. The Tongass National Forest walk, again, is for all abilities. That’s something that I’m very proud of, to have worked with Celebrity to make sure everything’s accessible for everyone. celebritycruises.co.uk
Discover the healing power of nature at Aarunya Nature Resort
RAYS OF LIGHT Between tea-scented valleys and picturesque ancient cities, Sri Lanka’s luxury resorts are leading the way in eco-friendly adventure Words: Michelle Johnson
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ri Lanka is having a moment. The ancient island nestled in the Bay of Bengal is one of the most developed and biodiverse countries in South Asia. With incredible natural beauty, a sprinkling of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and a diverse hotel offering ranging from hippy-chic to eco-luxe, it’s high on the must-see list for many travellers – and for good reason. In recent years, the country has welcomed an influx of Insta-travellers eager to capture the breathtaking scenery – such as once-unique views of Galle’s traditional stilt fishermen or the beatific train journeys – but, for us, the promise of something a little more unique was of greater appeal. Venturing away from sleepy southern towns and much-photographed golden beaches, we journeyed into the mountains that rise at the heart of the island and beyond. Here, we discovered luxury resorts whose commitment to sustainability is changing the very landscape of how we holiday, in all the right ways. Hotel groups such as Uga Escapes have been key in positioning Sri Lanka as a pioneer of eco-conscious tourism. Resort-led green energy initiatives, community outreach programmes and conservation projects mean guests can experience responsible travel in style – whether that’s lounging by an infinity pool in the protected jungle or tracking elephant migration through the country’s 70+ national parks. Here, Tempus ventures into three very different landscapes to discover how eco-luxury is being redefined by this magical destination.
Inset above: Traditional curry at Aarunya Nature Resort; Right, clockwise: Villas at Ulagalla by Uga Escapes; Ulagalla’s central Walawwa; on-site produce for Liyawela restaurant; inside the villas
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ANURADHAPURA Abandoned ruins, holy relics, royal wars: Sri Lanka’s ancient past is catnip to history buffs. Anuradhapura is the ultimate base for those of us seeking a healthy helping of cultural intrigue with our escape. Step back in time in the island’s ‘Cultural Triangle’.
GOING GREEN The remarkable Ulagalla by Uga Escapes is a sophisticated five-star resort and pioneer of sustainable tourism. The 58acre grounds boast working rice paddies, organic gardens and natural wildlife habitats – home to 100 species of native bird, playful langur monkeys and peacocks. The resort’s 20 freestanding villas are ecologically built using local, biodegradable materials and benefit from the resort’s solar farm. Designed to blend seamlessly with the surroundings, each features a private pool, beautifully furnished lounges and plenty of space to entertain. Staff – 40% of whom are recruited from local villages – are ready to anticipate every request. The resort’s community outreach programme funds everything from medical camps to sanitation projects for local schools.
ANCIENT WORLDS Take an excursion to UNESCO World Heritage Site Anuradhapura or monuments Sigiriya Lion Rock and Pidurangala – both of which are well worth climbing the many (many!) steps for extraordinary views. Book a chauffeur to explore the sprawling ruins of Polonnaruwa, or head to an elephant safari at Minneriya National Park. Back home at Ulagalla, take part in cookery lessons and local ceremonies such as the biannual rice harvest, enjoy horseriding in the grounds or relax in the spa and pool.
FINE FUSION Ulagalla’s Liyawela restaurant keeps the spotlight firmly on Sri Lankan cuisine, blending it with Western favourites to satisfy an international audience. For dinner, I started with fried calamari followed by a Sri Lankan pittu – a traditional rice flour and coconut dish served with a range of curry dishes. The trick, chefs tell me, is to blend each of the curries together as one to produce rich, complementary flavours. The restaurant’s five-course breakfast offers a generous spread of fresh fruits, pastries and egg dishes but if you prefer a lighter start to the day, the chef is more than happy to whip up whatever strikes your mood. » ugaescapes.com/ulagalla
KANDY Kandy is the second most populous city in Sri Lanka –with the traffic jams to prove it – but just 15 minutes into the mountains, travellers can quite literally rise above it all. Get your head in the clouds and discover the pictureperfect hills standing tall in the centre of the island.
TOP OF THE WORLD The newly opened mountaintop resort Aarunya Nature Resort is a cut above the rest, thanks to its attention to detail, effortless privacy and extraordinary location. Aarunya means ‘first rays of sun’ in Sanskrit and architects have certainly made the most of its views of the famous Knuckles mountain range, which can be enjoyed from sunrise to sunset. Our Sky Villa – one of only seven in the intimate resort – features floor-to-ceiling windows and a balcony (complete with hot tub) suspended over deep valleys and lush forests. At the highest point of the complex sits a communal bungalow where guests can find the concierge, infinity pool, al fresco restaurant and relaxed bar and lounge that’s a prime spot for sundowners. After a fresh fruit cocktail, head to the open-air spa for a zen sunset massage accompanied by the meditative background song of frogs and crickets.
TAKE YOUR PICK On its seven-acre mountainside plantation, Aarunya grows 20% of its own kitchen produce – this is on track to grow to 70% by the end of 2019 in line with the resort’s sustainability missions. General manager and executive chef Alec van Cuylenburg incorporates ingredients into a seasonal menu of Sri Lankan fusion – his creamy take on a peppery mulligatawny soup is heavenly.
EXPLORE THE SENSES The Temple of the Tooth is a popular attraction in nearby Kandy, but we suggest skipping the traffic and taking a more genteel detour to Nuwara Eliya. In the heart of tea country, this town is a feast for the senses, with verdant rows of tea plants filling the air with the scent of tea, and many plantations offering tasting tours. From there, it’s on the road more travelled – the train to hiking destination Ella is more than worth the hype. Take the opportunity to venture out from the cool, enclosed first class cabins to really enjoy the open views of one of the world’s most scenic train journeys. aarunyaresort.com
Instagrammable views await at Kandy’s Aarunya Nature Resort
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COLOMBO The bustling capital city of Colombo is Sri Lanka’s commercial heart, with lofty aspirations of becoming the next Singapore. Locals will tell you that this modern metropolis is like a whole other country, but there are moments of tranquillity nearby if you know where to look.
BY THE SEA Take advantage of Colombo’s proximity to Sri Lanka’s glorious southern beaches and surfable waves by exploring nearby surf haven Negombo or the picturesque fort town Galle where shoppers can pick up quality handmade crafts. Private whale-watching trips by catamaran are available in this area if you want an ocean-friendly, less crowded way to spot the sealife. Open your mind with a visit to the capital’s various conservation centres, created to protect sea turtles and at-risk coral reefs.
CITY SLICK A night or two at slick boutique the Residence by Uga Escapes (above) is an ideal way to keep that relaxed, hillcountry quality even in the city. The 11-suite Residence is unique to Colombo – it’s in a 19th-century building that was once a haven for British governors, Indian maharajas and European nobility, and is built around a stunning, open-air central courtyard. And with leafy Park Street on the doorstep, there’s no shortage of boutique stores, restaurants and nightlife.
SPORTING SUPPERS While the hotel’s on-site restaurant, Rare at Residence, serves up elegant international cuisine, it’s well worth heading further into the city for some of Colombo’s famous crab dishes. Upscale rooftop restaurant Botanik’s at Colombo Fort is receiving rave reviews for its local seafood. For a more down-to-earth experience cricket fans must visit The Cricket Club Café, where you may run into professional sportsmen during the cricket season. ugaescapes.com/residence
OCEANS OF PLENTY Luxury travel and conservation come together in southern Mozambique’s pristine Bazaruto Archipelago Words: Lauren Burris Hill
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t’s as we’re cruising the shallows off Bazaruto Island that I first see it – a solitary dugong slowly grazing on the seagrass of this pristine lagoon, indifferent to our presence as we lean over the bow of the small boat. Every few minutes, the manatee-like sea creature flips its tail to surface for air, giving us a glimpse of the round snout that makes it so distinct. These shy marine creatures inhabit the shallow waters of just a few coastal regions in the western Pacific and Indian Oceans. This archipelago off southern Mozambique is home to the last dugong population in this part of the world. The Bazaruto Archipelago’s six islands and waters rich in marine life have been protected since 1971 when the whole area was designated a national park. The importance of this status is easily understood when you’re beneath the surface of the cerulean sea that laps these islands’ shores. Before navigating the boat to this lagoon in the hope of seeing a dugong, we’d been snorkelling Two Mile Reef – a remarkably pristine stretch of coral passing between the archipelago’s two biggest islands, Benguerra and Bazaruto. When so much of the coral you see now is bleached by the increase of water temperatures, it’s reassuring to see how colourful the reef is here. Pink, orange, blue, green and yellow coral formations of every shape and size teem with astonishing marine life and synchronised shoals of brazenly coloured tropical fish. Startlingly blue starfish rest on the seabed, and it’s only the swirling black tentacles of an octopus that give away its hiding place between two rocks. A large green turtle slowly glides by while a reef shark coasts past almost unnoticed. Those who come to stay in the archipelago’s small island resorts are afforded exceptional access to this extraordinary environment, along with the opportunity to gain insight into what life is like for the islanders. Both land and sea are important to the archipelago’s conservation story, and a connection to the community is key to the whole endeavour’s success. »
Incredible views come as standard at Lefay Resort
The barefoot luxury beach lodge andBeyond Benguerra Island leads the way in developing these conservation and community initiatives. On a sublime stretch of the island’s western coast, sprawling villas that peer out from tropical gardens, a beachfront infinity pool and open-air dhow bar – the traditional wooden boat colourfully ornamented and nestled on the sand – come paired with an unmistakeable passion for working with the community and conserving the environment. While you’re here, you can take a horseback ride along empty white sand beaches, set out on decadent castaway picnics and see the sunset while cruising on one of those dhows, the only sound the gently lapping waves and wind blowing in the sails. Each evening, you’ll sip cocktails by a blazing beach fire and dine on grilled seafood under the stars. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can take a scenic helicopter ride over the islands and set out on a bush drive along Benguerra’s sandy paths. By exploring the land, you’ll see abundant birdlife, timid suni antelope and a lake frequented by flamingos, the wild northern coast where ghost crabs scuttle across the sand, and red-hot towering sand dunes. You can scuba dive and snorkel all year round, but come between July and October and you’ll also see migrating humpback whales. Whale sharks congregate along the San Sebastian Peninsula in June and July, and migratory birds make an appearance from October through to March. In 2017, andBeyond announced the launch of its Oceans Without Borders initiative (leading on from its successful Rhinos Without Borders programme) to protect the marine environment of this archipelago and its two other island lodges, andBeyond Vamizi Island in Mozambique and andBeyond Mnemba Island in Zanzibar. »
CONSERVATION
CALL OF NATURE: WHEN LUXURY TRAVEL MEETS CONSERVATION SONEVA RESORTS, THE MALDIVES Based out of Soneva Jani and Soneva Fushi in the Maldives, and Soneva Kiri in Thailand, The Soneva Foundation develops projects that have a positive environmental, social or economic impact on the region. Soneva Ocean Stewards in the Maldives focuses on teaching children to swim while providing environmental awareness lessons that foster an appreciation for the ocean. See for yourself what makes this ocean so special by snorkelling with manta rays and seeing dolphins up close on a sunset cruise. soneva.com
WILDERNESS SAFARIS, BOTSWANA
The andBeyond Benguerra Island villa
The Wilderness Wildlife Trust’s projects span three pillars – research and conservation, community empowerment and education, and anti-poaching and management – with initiatives at Wilderness Safaris lodges across Africa. The Botswana Rhino Rehabilitation Project saw the successful reintroduction of black and white rhinos to the Okavango Delta. Catch a rare glimpse of these endangered creatures while staying at flagship property, Mombo Camp, or exclusive-use camp Little Mombo. wilderness-safaris.com
MASHPI LODGE, ECUADOR Mashpi is so much more than a rainforest lodge. This reserve also encompasses a research station, which was established to discover as much as possible about the diverse ecosystem. This research now informs the lodge’s conservation efforts, reserve management, forest preservation and sustainable tourism. You can gain valuable insight into the ecosystem that makes this reserve unique by setting out along its rainforest trails and visiting the lodge’s Life Centre with a guide. mashpilodge.com
JEAN-MICHEL COUSTEAU RESORT, FIJI Led by the ocean explorer and environmentalist JeanMichel Cousteau, this resort endeavours to take care of the surrounding environment through sustainability programmes and education for the community. As a guest, you can experience and support these efforts, while setting out from Cousteau Dive Centre to see the coral gardens of Namena Marine Reserve. fijiresort.com
In this way this pioneering company is playing a part in the conservation of 1,865 miles of African coastline. Up until now, andBeyond Benguerra Island has channeled much of its efforts into supporting the local community in partnership with Africa Foundation – building an island clinic, community centre and school, among other initiatives – while also educating local people in the importance of preserving their environment. Now Oceans Without Borders is stepping each lodge’s efforts up a gear: there’s an increased focus on the data collected from coral, fish, turtle and whale monitoring, and assessing community needs to support sustainable livelihoods. After coming in from a sunset sail on the dhow I get talking to the lodge’s general manager, Johan van der Merwe, who’s behind much of the community and conservation work undertaken here. “The whole ethos with andBeyond is, ‘How do you make a difference; how do you make it sustainable?’ And the first thing to look after is the wildlife,” he explains. “On the islands it’s engrained in the community’s upbringing to fish with nature. We need to educate people not to use nets, or to fish only for certain species.” Johan explains it’s this archipelago’s position at the point different currents collide that makes it so bountiful. “These currents bring all the marine life here,” he says. “All the way from the San Sebastian Peninsula to a few kilometres north of Bazaruto.” Aside from its resident dugongs and migratory whales, the San Sebastian Peninsula is said to have the highest concentration of whale sharks in Africa at certain times of year, and Mozambique is one of the few places you’ll find five of the seven turtle species. “It’s phenomenal. We have some real close encounters,” Johan enthuses, before concluding: “Ecology-wise, the Bazaruto Archipelago is a very important area, and if we don’t protect what is here, it’s gone.” andbeyond.com
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INTO THE BLUE An exclusive look inside the former Morocco home of the legendary Yves Saint Laurent Words: Sophie Ball
STYLE
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arrakech taught me colour,” Yves Saint Laurent once said. The late, great couturier would go on to purchase a private residence in the medina and eventually have his ashes scattered there, such was the impact of the city on him. For a designer who invented so many things we now take for granted, from tailored trouser suits for women to the concept of black as a colour, it is striking to note the influence of a country he first visited in 1966. The colour and clamour of Marrakech started to infiltrate his designs, which became decidedly more vibrant as he spent more time in the Moroccan city. Much inspiration came from Jardin Majorelle, an exquisite garden hidden within the hustle of the fabled Red City. Indeed, so struck were Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé with the garden and the adjacent Villa Oasis – previously owned by French painter Jacques Majorelle – that, in 1980, when they heard it was to be sold and replaced by a hotel, they decided to buy it.
While the villa remains private – its interiors are a closely guarded secret – Saint Laurent opened up the gardens to the public, giving others outside his exclusive sphere the chance to experience the magic of the colourful space. As a designer who established his aesthetic via expensive, one-of-a-kind couture pieces, but whose legacy is largely based on mass-produced, ready-to-wear fashion, it’s fitting that his approach to the Majorelle estate is the same – the crowning jewel of Villa Oasis remains the experience of a small handful of lucky visitors, but the gardens are inclusive of all. The grounds are now home to the Musée Yves Saint Laurent which opened in late 2017 with exhibitions on the designer, as well as Jacques Majorelle and Moroccan artists. I first visited Jardin Majorelle five years ago and, falling under the same spell that captured Saint Laurent, have returned four times since. While I have remained captivated by the gardens, I have never been able to enter Villa Oasis… until now, thanks to Four Seasons. »
THE CROWNING JEWEL OF VILLA OASIS REMAINS THE EXPERIENCE OF A SMALL HANDFUL OF LUCKY VISITORS
Jardin Majorelle is one of the best-kept secrets in Marrakech
The Four Seasons Extraordinary Experiences Collection is a self-coined Invitation to Adventure on behalf of the luxury hotel group, which promises exclusive, customised local experiences at all its properties around the world. In Marrakech, the extraordinary experience is a private tour of the city’s best kept-secret, Villa Oasis. I booked my flight. We were not allowed to take photos or reveal too much about the interior of the villa, but suffice to say it is an architectural masterpiece and one of the most intimate tributes to an icon it is possible to encounter. The outing also included a private tour of the Musée YSL and a leisurely lunch at the hotel with each of the five courses themed around Saint Laurent’s designs. It’s a considered and compelling package and I’d recommend it wholeheartedly – if you are a serious fashion follower, it’s breathtaking. As the future of luxury becomes more about experience than acquisition, it’s this kind exclusive opportunity that will make brands stand out. At its heart, the true meaning of luxury has always been status, whether we like to admit it or not, and the Four Seasons has skilfully recognised that – in the most discreet and elegant way. fourseasons.com
Bespoke and ready-to-wear designs sustainably produced and ethically manufactured in London
a luxury collection for professional woman CHERIDA.co.uk
Classic / Urban / Chic
BY AIR, LAND AND SEA Tempus explores the adventurous new timepiece trends at SIHH 2019 Words: Michelle Johnson
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rguably the most innovative watch fair of the year, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève (SIHH) saw thousands of watch collectors, enthusiasts and brands gather for the invitation-only 2019 show. With major manufacturers and independent artisans showcasing the latest in haute horology, Tempus was on hand to discover how some of this year’s most exciting timepieces were inspired by our adventures across the globe – by air, land and sea.
STYLE
FLYING HIGH IWC Schaffhausen’s newest collection showcases its impressive engineering with a full fleet of pilot’s watch novelties. Inspired by the house’s classic 1949 Mark 11 Navigator’s Wristwatch – created for the RAF – the collection includes novelties in the Spitfire, Le Petit Prince and Top Gun variations. Particularly interesting was the Pilot’s Timezoner Spitfire Edition The Longest Flight (right), limited to 250 pieces and designed for pilots Steve Boultbee and Matt Jones’ upcoming flight around the world in an original Spitfire (see box, right). The watch combines IWC’s patented Timezoner mechanism with completely automatic IWC manufactured movements, featuring the newly developed 82760 IWC calibre. The watch can be set to different time zones by simply rotating the bezel – the hour hand, 24-hour display and date instantly adjust automatically – and has a pleasing vintage look. iwc.com
FLIGHT TIME Tempus speaks with Boultbee Flight Academy co-founder Matt Jones about his plans to circumnavigate the world in a historic Spitfire. Tempus: What inspired you to take on this unique, round-the-world trip? Matt Jones: Steve Boultbee and I set up the world’s only Spitfire flying school in Goodwood 10 years ago, hoping to inspire people with the incredible aircraft. Two years ago we bought this MK9 Spitfire, which flew 51 combat missions during the Second World War – we knew we had to do something special with it. We have partnered with IWC to create the Silver Spitfire – The Longest Flight expedition. Setting off on 18 August – the 75th anniversary of D-Day – we’ll fly 25,000 miles (about 22,000 nautical miles) around the world, flying over places like the Taj Mahal and Great Wall of China. Our aim is to show this beautiful piece of engineering against other wonderful, manmade structures around the world. We’ll also be flying at 1,500 to 2,000ft, so people on the ground can see us in flight.
REACH FOR THE STARS
Why is the Spitfire such a special aircraft?
This year, a space-age aesthetic proved popular with more than just calendar timepieces. The Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune was a surprising favourite thanks to its dramatic double moonphase (indicating north and south hemispheres) rotating on a central dial, while the Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon was noted for its oversized gilded tourbillon with a single bridge, limited to 28 pieces. But truly celestial inspiration came from Piaget, which invited star guests, Black Panther star Michael B. Jordan and socialite Olivia Palermo, to present three new novelties in its Altiplano range, combining its signature ultrathin watchmaking with the fine hard stone craftsmanship more often seen in its high jewellery collections. The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Meteorite (right) features the brand’s patented 3mm-thin automatic calibre 1283P and is available in white or rose gold – all fair trade, of course – with a simple distillation of hours and minutes, and a date window at three o’clock. A “meteorite” dial is formed by crystallised nickel and iron to create distinctive markings, known as Widmanstätten patterns, found in iron meteorites, making each of the 56 pieces – 28 in grey dial and 28 in blue – truly unique. »
It’s a symbol of freedom. It’s an emblem of a country and a world coming together to fight for what it believes in. Flying a Spitfire is completely different to any other aircraft. Firstly, it’s the most beautiful shape. There’s the sound of it, thanks to its powerful Rolls-Royce engine. Its flight characteristics inspire the most freeing feeling. Your head sticks out of this bubble, the controls are light to the touch and so responsive that you feel like you’ve got wings. It’s incredible that a piece of machinery can be so moving.
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Tell us about the expedition’s partnership with IWC Schaffhausen? I’ve always been a fan of IWC’s engineering and purposeful design – my first proper watch was an IWC Pilot’s Watch, which I bought when I got my command – so we’re really proud to working with them. They’ve created the Timezoner Spitfire Edition, The Longest Flight (left) and it looks great. The Timezoner bezel mechanism is very tactile – I can’t wait to go across the date line and click it over.
ANIMAL INSTINCT Natural greens and blue-grey tones were popular trends across the board again this year, with brands like IWC Schaffhausen, Montblanc and H Moser & Cie all showcasing fine watches in these colours. But Vacheron Constantin broke the mould with its own inspired-by-nature aesthetic. Employing a range of handcrafting skills for its bespoke Les Cabinotiers collections, MĂŠcaniques Sauvages (right) offers a range of animal-themed, one-of-akind pieces. Whether minute repeater, perpetual calendar or an armillary tourbillon, each is embellished with phenomenal craftwork from wooden marquetry to hand engraving, enamelling and more. The jewel in its 2019 presentation, however, was the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, which introduced a new patented mechanism that allows the watch to burn energy at different rates at the press of a crown. In fact, it beats at 5hz or 1.2Hz without changing the timekeeping, with the lower frequency using less energy and so acting as a standby mode that provides power for up to two months. vacheron-constantin.com
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THE MINUTE REPEATER USES FOUR HAMMERS AND TONES – IT CAN
MUSICALLY MIMIC LONDON’S WESTMINSTER CHIME
OUT OF THE WOODS Paying tribute to the home of watchmaking, the forests of the Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre showcased its extraordinary watchmaking skills yet again this year within an elaborate indoor forest. It introduced new novelties in its Reverso range, while new Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewellery sparkled thanks to a brilliant bezel of Griffe-set diamonds. But the brand’s true masterpiece was its Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetual (left). Yes, the watch is something of a mouthful, but it’s more than made up for as an engineering marvel. It features a 2019 gyrotourbillon that’s incredibly precise at any power reserve, an open-worked perpetual calendar movement that can be adjusted forwards and backwards, and a minute repeater that makes use of a record four hammers and tones – so it can musically mimic London’s Westminster chime at the quarter. » jaeger-lecoultre.com
UNDER THE SEA Panerai celebrated its Submersible collection becoming a standalone range with three new experience-focused novelties. Point of pride was the Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry Edition (right) – a professional diving watch that is water resistant to a depth of 300m (30 bar) and equipped with an unidirectional rotating bezel, plus plenty of luminescence to ensure clear sight at any depth. Owners of the 15-pieces can experience diving off the coast of Mo’orea in French Polynesia, with Freediving World Champion Guillaume Néry. The Submersible Carbotech Marina Militare was inspired by the brand’s long collaboration with the Italian Navy, and owners of the 33 pieces will have the opportunity to experience two days training with the Navy’s COMSUBIN commandos. The Submersible Mike Horn Edition (above), created for explorer Mike Horn, is a professional diving watch made of EcoTitanium – a world premier material obtained from recycled titanium and used for the case, crown and bezel – and recycled plastic, with owners of the 19-pieces invited on an environmental trip with the explorer himself. panerai.com
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AHEAD OF THE WAVE
DEEP THOUGHT
While Swiss watchmaker Ulysses Nardin didn't update any of its diving watches for its 2019 SIHH presentation, it's shark-themed décor certainly brought home its history, even as it works to attract a new, younger demographic with a more accessible X range. The more compact-and affordable Freak X comes in multiple variations, including titanium and rose gold, but we’re most excited for its Carbonium version (above). The innovative material is an aerospace-grade carbon fibre never before used in watchmaking.
Avant garde horological machine artists MB&F revealed their latest cocreation with L'Epée 1939. The clock, called Medusa (above), takes us into the depths of the ocean, with the hand-blown Murano glass jellyfish housing a dual-configuration clock. Two rotating rings display hours and minutes, visible through the glass dome available in pink, green or blue transparent glass – all with a subtle Super-LumiNova. The machine can be ceiling-mounted or stood upright on a surface. Another triumph by one of the most futuristic teams in watchmaking.
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MADE IN ENGLAND James Mechie is transforming London’s Islington into the Savile Row of ski making
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or anyone who has rented skis from a resort ski shop, or browsed ready-made skis in a sports outlet, you’ll know that finding the right pair can be an uphill battle. Just like a perfectly tailored suit, the right skis need to reflect your needs, size, weight and much more. That’s why James Mechie decided to found the only bespoke ski makers in London, Nix Snowsport Co. From his workshop in an unassuming location in Islington, he brings the craftsmanship of the mountains to the city, crafting skis that are fully tailored to their users. Tempus met him to find out about the process. Firstly, why London? “Because it’s close to people that ski,” he says. “It would be lovely to be in a ski resort, but it’s not actually that practical, because building skis is an interactive process. it’s not the kind of thing you could just walk into a shop and buy – it’s quite involved.” Potential customers can visit the workshop, talk through designs and custom graphics, technical specs and material options, and really feel like they’re involved in every step of the build. James crafts two levels of skis – at the top is bespoke, which is his main focus. “It’s like making a bespoke suit,” he says. “We take into account things like your height, your weight, where you’ll be riding, the kind of snow you’ll be on, your ability level, and if you’re going to go touring etc. Then we build the design around you. The idea is that instead of trying a bunch of readymade skis and finding one which fits best, you say what you want and then we go from there.” “It’s all about finding something that’s going to let you progress,” he continues. “So, you might have the best pair of skis in the world, but if it’s not the right pair of skis for you, it’s not going to ski
well. The bespoke side is really about finding the right pair of skis and taking that kind of guesswork out of the buying process.” Mechie also crafts collections of made-tomeasure skis – his own-designed models which can be adjusted to fit the user as a halfway-house to full bespoke. Most people who come to him aren’t looking for generic skis, but rather ready to create something a bit more special. “We focus on free-ride skis which covers anything from all mountain through to back country skiing, both piste and powder,” he says. “Often people who buy our skis will be looking for something that’s great off-piste but can also perform well on piste.” Like most good manufacturers, Mechie is doing his bit to be as eco-conscious as possible – for instance, he uses environmentally friendly bamboo for the cores, carbon fibre and flax instead of fibreglass and bio-resin instead of epoxy. “It’s one of those weird paradoxes, but the ski industry relies on the climate,” he says. “I feel like we, in particular, should be doing our bit to stop global warming or slow it down, because if we don’t, we won’t have an industry.” Customers travel to the workshop from across the UK and even Europe to meet him. And it’s easy to see why. Despite its unusual location, Nix Snowsport Co is doing something really special. But you’ll have to get in quick if you want a pair for the current season – bespoke skis can be built in four to five weeks. Bespoke skis start from £1,375 depending on requirements and materials nixsnowsports.com
Right: James Mechie crafting his ecoconscious skis in London
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PEACE OUT Severin*s in Austria sets a new standard in luxe yet tranquil alpine retreats Words: Laura Westmacott
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ew ski destinations have a more exclusive image than Lech, thanks to its regular patronage from members of the British and Dutch royal families. Known as Europe’s most beautiful village, it is steadfastly stylish and features strongly on the holiday map for European aristocracy. It also famously features in some big-screen blockbusters, including 2004’s Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason. Entering the charmingly old-world Lech Am Arlberg is certainly like walking on to the set of a film. It seems entirely plausible that Nobel Prize-winning writer Ernest Hemingway could appear around the next corner – he spent winters in the 1920s in the Vorarlberg mountains. Quintessentially Austrian, this chocolate-box village harks back to yesteryear, and must have rigid town planners, who make any proposed ‘carbuncles’ completely impossible. Winding our way through the village, we passed the beautiful pink frescoes of the Hotel Gasthof Post, where my grandparents used to stay with my father almost 50 years ago. Then it was on past the main lift station and up the hill to the Stubenbach quarter and the uniquely positioned Severin*s Alpine Retreat, with its copper roofing, vintage Tirolean timber-and-stone façade with breathtaking views of Lech. This sumptuous escape is owned by the Zech Group, known for an ever-expanding real estate and hospitality portfolio, including hotels in Germany. Having launched in December 2006, the hidden nine-suite hotel feels über five-star, while still managing to be incredibly cosy and like a home from home. It’s no surprise to find it is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group. »
Left: Relax or work out in the wellness centre Right: Severin*s inviting suites
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AS A FORMER BRITISH SKI CHAMPION, I WAS KEEN TO LEARN ABOUT LECH’S HISTORY OF RACING
“What we wanted to create was a place where you would be away from home but feel so comfortable that it feels like you’re at a friend’s house, combined with the highest level of quality; we like to call it ‘legere Luxos’ – understated luxury,” says Christoph Dittmer, Severin*s general manager. The hotel boasts a refreshing modern twist to its interiors with suites, measuring from 47sqm to 67sqm, divided into lavish living and sleeping areas, plus bathrooms with the ultimate rainfall showers. The rooms are fitted out with antique Tirol wood from local forests, statement lighting, exclusive furnishings from the premium brand Minotti combined with state-of-the-art technology including Loewe sound systems and iPad wall activations. Modern art in the rooms is chosen by Vienna’s Contemporary Art Advisors, and the suites are completed with private terraces and balconies. An additional feature that I much appreciated was the fire, which I lit daily upon return from the slopes. Families – or those seeking privacy and flexibility – can book the Severin*s four-bedroom private residence, which comes with a home cinema, state-of-the-art kitchen, grand piano, office and al fresco hot tub, as well as 400sqm of stylish living space. The Residence can be accessed from the basement car park via a private lift. On the eve of our first day skiing, we were fitted out for boots and skis in style at Strolz, arguably one of the swankiest ski shops in the Alps thanks to its boutique interiors and famed custom-made boots. And whether you’re aiming for first lifts or hitting the slopes at a more leisurely pace, the Severin*s ski room with boot heaters gets things off to a good start before you’re chauffeurdriven to the lift station. With 305km of ski runs and 88 lifts, the Arlberg is Austria’s largest linked ski area. Lech is also linked to WarthSchröcken, a little-known neighbouring resort which enjoys Europe’s highest average annual snowfall, meaning that snow is guaranteed much later in the season in spite of rising temperatures, all the way through to April. There is no doubt that the Arlberg is the cradle of modern skiing – in 1904 the first ski race in the Alps took place there. As a former British ski champion, I was keen to learn about Lech’s history of racing. It is
renowned by skiing enthusiasts for its legendary White Ring Race, which pits 1,000 participants against each other over a 22km course. The current record, held by former Olympic downhill champion Patrick Ortlieb, is 44 minutes and 35 seconds – other mere mortals require about two hours to take in the panoramic views. We opted for a more leisurely pace, sunbathing and taking elevenses at 1,750m in deckchairs on the Mohnenfluh terrace in Oberlech. Later, we enjoyed the most divine lunch washed down by rosé champagne at Hotel Aurelio, Lech’s gourmet restaurant – where you must stop and appreciate the incredible black and white ski photography, by Englishman Tim Hall, adorning the walls. We felt we’d earned a carbohydrate-rich lunch and gorged on delicious tagliolini spaghetti with champagne foam and Périgord truffle. Later still, over an après ski Aperol Spritz, we enjoyed watching the world go by at Hotel Tannbergerhof on the main thoroughfare. Upon return from skiing, those looking to keep fit off the slopes as well as on can take advantage of the hotel’s state of the art Technogym. But my aching limbs were soothed in the hotel’s underground swimming pool, sauna, steam room and infra-red cabin. Spa and salon treatments are available on request. Soon enough, it was time to eat again, this time back at Severin*s where the hotel’s Michelin-starred chef Stefan Kriegelstein creates contemporary fare using local, seasonal produce that provides insight into the culinary traditions of the Arlberg region. Dishes are best enjoyed with a bottle or two of wine from the hotel’s private cellar. We were treated to a four-course dinner including all the well-known Austrian delicacies: a platter with cold cuts and mixed pickles to start followed by minestrone; homemade tagliatelle with pesto, pine nuts, and dried tomatoes; the famous wiener schnitzel with lingonberries, and the ultimate kaiserschmarrn – a kind of fluffy pancake – with plum compote for dessert. Ski resorts simply don’t come prettier, snowier or more stylish than Lech, and Severin*s has created the to-die-for boutique and intimate chalet-style hotel surrounded by jaw-dropping peaks for the ultimate escape from it all. severins-lech.at
SNOW TURNING BACK Rediscover the adrenaline rush of real skiing with Colorado’s greatest runs Words: Ross Forbes
Breckenridge’s runs are some of the steepest in the US
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here’s something missing from today’s skiing holidays. Admittedly, there’s nothing quite like getting back to that alpine wonderland, taking in the beauty of the mountains as you’re blanketed in opulence at every snow-capped turn. Luxury isn’t exactly missing from an escape to the slopes but, if you’re anything like me, that desire for the extraordinary too often seems to be emphasised in everything except the most important aspect of this kind of escape: adrenaline. Getting on the slopes is, to me, about pushing yourself to the limit. It’s making that jump you wouldn’t normally try or the white-knuckled excitement of getting off-piste somewhere new. If you’re looking for that rush, take it from one thrill seeker to another – there’s nowhere quite like Colorado.
HOME OF THE BRAVE The western American state of Colorado is home to Vail and Breckenridge, two postcard-perfect towns in the Rocky Mountain range that combine the best qualities of a mountain escape with elegant après-ski. My adventure started in Vail at the Arrabelle at Vail Square resort. Arriving is a literal breath of fresh air. This European-style, fairytale-like building exudes warmth and welcome. From the striking fireplace that greets you in the lobby to the marble and wood décor that runs throughout, this ski chalet epitomises the old-world charm of Vail Valley – one of the greatest US ski resorts, with a European twist. A quick meal at the Tavern on the Square and a night in the hotel’s luxurious rooms later, I was ready for a morning on the Vail Valley slopes. Despite being a confident skier, I indulged in a private instructor for the day to get a feel for the Rockies. From finding secret spots to developing my daredevil skills even further, it was a huge benefit having a veteran of the slopes on hand. We were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of world-leading snowboarders training for the upcoming Burton US Open Junior Jam. We had nothing but awe and admiration for the competitors – all aged 14 and under – as they absolutely shredded the course. There wasn’t any jealousy whatsoever. Honestly. Another exciting way to explore the Rockies is via snowmobile with Nova Guides. This unbelievable expedition allowed us to traverse the slopes with an entertaining and informative
BRECKENRIDGE’S 9 LIVES RUN IS A SLOPE SO STEEP JUST LOOKING AT IT WILL PUT YOUR HEART IN YOUR MOUTH
guide at a nail-biting 180km/h – it truly gets the blood pumping. After a long day on the mountains, we indulged in the RockResorts Spa and steam room adjacent to the Arrabelle – an absolute must for fighting off muscle ache. Then, after a revitalising full-body sports massage, it was time to hit the town. With traffic-free roads and an array of things to do and see, Vail is an enticing après-ski location. Refuel with dinner at AAA-rated fine-dining spot Game Creek Restaurant. This scenic chaletstyle restaurant is accessible only by snowcat in the winter and by hiking or four-wheel drive shuttle in the summer, and overlooks the famed Game Creek Bowl. Not just high-altitude but also high quality, Game Creek Restaurant offers diners a five-star all-American menu and the tenderest of steaks, an award-winning wine list and excellent customer service.
SPIRIT OF THE WILD WEST Where Vail boasts a reputation as one of the top ski resorts in the world, the nearby town of Breckenridge feels more like one of Colorado’s best-kept secrets. This hip, close-knit town has a rich Wild West gold-mining history in addition to its breathtaking slopes. Amid all the action is the magnificent One Ski Hill Place, a top destination for avid skiers who want a ski-in/ski-out hotel that’s also in range of the town’s amenities. Thanks to its varied slopes and advanced terrain, skiing at Breckenridge will not disappoint even the most discerning of skiers. The Double Black Diamond-rated 9 Lives run is a slope so
steep just looking at it will put your heart in your mouth. This impressive run can be accessed only by the highest chairlift in North America. At just shy of 13,000ft, it has to be seen just for the pure height – and is not for the faint of heart. Get a sense of Breckenridge’s heritage at Hearthstone, a fine-dining restaurant located in a 125-year-old building. Chef Michael Halpin curates not just a step back in time, but a step in the right direction, serving exceptional, locally sourced food. Nearby Briar Rose Chophouse and Saloon is a hark back to the Old West serving vast amounts of aged beef and wild game. Another taste of the town’s culture comes in the form of the world’s highest whisky distillery, Breckenridge Distillery, which sits at 9,600ft. Here it’s not just the altitude that will impress, but the quality of the range of grain-to-bottle whiskies and rums, distilled botanicals and blended bourbons aged by experts in barrels from Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana. All in all, I couldn’t dream of a better destination than Colorado to get my skiing fix. From getting a lesson in American history in the towns, to the truly heart-stopping runs high in the Rockies, these mountains provide thrills like no other. Some of our party headed off to explore the rest of the US with their Epic Passes, which allow unrestricted access across the States. But unlike them, I was homeward bound – with just enough time left to head up to the slopes for one more adrenaline rush. epicpass.com, arrabelle.rockresorts.com, oneskihill.rockresorts.com
Left: Pictureperfect: The Arrabelle at Vail Square Right, clockwise: The slopes towering over Breckenridge, homemade whisky at Breckenridge Distillery, hearty cuisine at Hearthstone (centre)
SPORT
Incredible views come as standard at Lefay Resort
NATURAL SELECTION Purposeful pampering and meaningful me-time is what we want when it comes to wellness – Tempus highlights the most forward-thinking spas, transformational therapies and fulfilling fitness escapes that are tuning us back into nature and nurturing our inner beauty Words: Juliet Kinsman
IN THIS ALL-TOO-BUSY, TECHED-UP WORLD,
MINDFULNESS, MEDITATION AND QUALITY SLEEP ARE WHAT WE’RE CRAVING
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ind, body and soul. A phrase often used to describe wellness therapies – although only now is the spa industry giving all three equal attention. The recent spotlight on mental health has raised awareness around ways to battle depression and stave off dementia – and this is spilling over into spa menus, where how we feel is as important as how we look. In response to this comes psychology-inspired therapies prescribed for our specific needs, alongside the usual massages and facials. At Six Senses spas around the world, doctorguided wellness screenings measure physiological biomarkers through a finger pulse oximeter which observes heart rate, oxygen uptake, arterial stiffness and stress. Non-invasive electrodes test interstitial fluid ( fluid between the cells) and bioelectrical impedance analysis helps determine body composition. The results are teamed with one-to-one discussions around your lifestyle, concerns and goals, resulting in a multi-dimensional approach which can continue having a positive impact long after your visit. In London, beauty expert Lisa Oxenham is teaming up with psychotherapist and makeup artist Lee Pycroft to provide practical beauty tips and products to boost self-image while discussing scientific and psychological techniques and strategies based on neuroscience to build yourself up from the inside out. Follow their journey through #ImBack on Instagram.
In this all-too-busy, teched-up world, mindfulness, meditation and quality sleep are what we’re all craving. Overcharged lifestyles prompt the need to slow down and find calm and focus. Conscious breathwork, also known as active meditation, is one method to counter the madness. The technique is a big part of Pauze’s yoga retreats, which run in Camps Bay, Cape Town three times a year and are offered through dedicated retreats such as LUX* South Ari Atoll in the Maldives. Specialist sleep retreats are popping up in response to the world’s ever-increasing insomnia and REM deficit – and SHA Wellness Clinic on the shores of the Mediterranean in Spain takes treatment to the next level through its residences which tackle anxiety and sleeping disorders. Trailblazing technologies include cognitive stimulation therapies developed in conjunction with NASA and Harvard University. Dr Bruno Ribeiro, the clinic’s head of cognitive development, hosts brainwave-monitoring transcranial current stimulation treatments and photobiomodulation sessions which analyse, diagnose and treat neurological disorders from depression to addictions, sharpening mental ability. Digestion and the need for a healthy balance of gut bacteria are also at the fore of wellness awareness. In their book Brain Maker: The Power of Gut Microbes to Heal and Protect Your Brain for Life, David Perlmutter and Kristin Loberg
Above: Detox in style at LUX* South Ari Atoll. Right: Bathe in nature at GoldenEye Jamaica
WELLNESS claim that the microbiome – the collective of microorganisms living in our body, including bacteria, fungi and viruses – plays a vital role in keeping our immune system and brain functioning in optimum balance. The ancient holistic belief system of Ayurveda has always regarded diet as a cornerstone of good health, recognising that internal factors influence beauty. Vana retreat in India offers delicious cuisines tailored to your dosha, or body type, and experts provide nutritional and dietary information that you can follow back home. FX Mayr Clinic in Austria has always focused on optimal eating habits through its detox regimes and Grayshott Spa in Surrey now has a seven-day Digestive Health Programme. Healthy is the new beautiful, and looking naturally radiant is the ultimate goal – right down to our nails. French chiropodist Bastien Gonzalez has developed luxury foot and nailcare treatments which leave hands and hoofs as healthy as can be – buffing the nails with a chamois leather. Treatments in the rainforestview rooms at the Datai resort in Malaysia feel especially salubrious and leave you looking naturally youthful and fresh rather than madeup or artificially airbrushed. Nature is playing a bigger role than ever in spas, reconnecting us to Mother Earth. The FieldSpa at GoldenEye, at the edge of a blue lagoon in the Jamaican jungle, invites guests to get to their spa appointment by swimming or kayaking. It also
goes hyperlocal with its ingredients, harnessing the healing powers of flowers, roots, leaves and herbs grown at the resort’s own farm. Over in Bali, Fivelements is a thatched, bamboo riverside eco-conscious wellness retreat which is a master of organic health-boosting thanks to its yoga pavilions, vegan restaurant and all-natural therapies. Far-flung wild-fitness spa adventures don’t get more special than the NihiOka Spa Safari on Sumba, an undeveloped eastern island of Indonesia. Spa days start with a hike through dusty hills, farmland, untouched village and end with back-to-back organic indigenous wraps and rubs in a shack overlooking only the ocean. It’s not just tropical destinations treating us to this natural pampering – Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas hosts an Open-Air Spa Experience in Greece’s Zagori region where you climb mountain peaks before having your face or body pampered to perfection in that watercolourworthy landscape. Closer to home, at Meadow Spa at Thyme in the Cotswolds, you arrive at restored 17th-century farm buildings and enter through a greenhouse reception for botanical treatments which show a love of the land. Some say that to reconnect with nature you don’t even need to go to a spa. Just practise earthing: walk barefoot on the earth’s natural terrain and let the feel of warm sand or green grass harmonise your energy, reduce stress and encourage restful sleep.
HEALTH-BOOSTING HOTELS
LEFAY DOLOMITI
ARCTIC BATH HOTEL
CHIVA-SOM
Italy’s Dolomites welcomes a sister to Lake Garda’s Lefay spa retreat opening this summer, just outside Pinzolo’s Madonna di Campiglio ski resort. Hiking, biking and climbing makes Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti just as appealing in summer as in the winter season, when it becomes a snow-covered paradise.
Sweden’s Arctic region lures us to the Lule River for restorative ice-cold baths – not for the faint-hearted – and gazing at the Northern Lights thanks to the Arctic Bath Hotel’s six floating pavilion suites. Based in the Swedish Laplands, the designled resort is not only a masterpiece of architecture, it’s a wellness hub, too.
Thailand’s ultimate destination spa, Chiva-Som, is fresh from a six-month renovation following its launch 23 years ago. The long-awaited new incarnation of the award-winning health resort includes a specialist golf retreat along with its spa, fitness, physiotherapy, nutrition and aesthetic beauty offerings.
lefayresorts.com
arcticbath.se
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Sail in style in the Seabourn Ovation Wintergarden Suite
NEW HORIZONS The tide is turning in the world of cruising – with an influx of luxury offerings smashing tired stereotypes and attracting a new type of adventurous style seeker Words: Dominique Afacan
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he world of cruising is changing. And thank goodness. Only a few years ago, holidaying at sea had an image problem. Cruises signalled sweaty all-you-can-eat buffets, cringeworthy Captain’s Dinners that inexplicably required evening wear, flag-carrying tour guides and heaving crowds of retirees and/or families with feral children. Fast-forward to 2019 and things have transformed, the evolution helped massively by an influx of luxe new offerings where Michelin-starred food outlets, spas and suites (instead of boxy cabins) are commonplace. There’s also been a boom in the number of five-star hotels bolstering their offering with a floating option. And what better way to give cruising a whirl than with a name you already know and trust? Suddenly, people who might never have considered a holiday on the water are tentatively considering jumping aboard. When the first Ritz-Carlton Yacht sets sail this year, many of the guests will be hotel regulars giving cruising a go for the first time. With just 149 suites on board this elegant vessel, the vibe is destined to be far more intimate than cruises of old. “The size and design of The Ritz-Carlton Yachts places us in a new space between ultra-luxury ships and super-yachts,” explains Douglas Prothero, CEO of The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection. “We are essentially recreating the yacht experience in a cruise world – the yacht has become a destination. For example, an open-air marina platform offers direct access to the sea. Public spaces have an open, residential feel. Culinary venues are intimate and in-suite dining is offered 24 hours a day.” Celebrity Edge is another next-generation cruise ship attracting a similar new crowd. Unveiled in late 2018 and costing a whopping $1b to build, it boasts interiors by the likes of Kelly Hoppen, Patricia Urquiola and Tom Wright, all of whom were tasked with turning the tide on typical cruise ship design. One of its signature features is a ‘Magic Carpet’ – a floating glass dining venue which moves up and down the exterior of the ship. It’s a far cry from the old all-you-can-eat buffet. “Cruising to date certainly hasn’t always been front of mind for all travellers but that is changing in a big way,” says Jo Rzymowska, VP and MD of Celebrity Cruises UK & Ireland. “Our new ships are
aimed at those who love the finer things in life and are looking for memorable experiences.” Experience is very much the name of the game – and beyond the upgrade of the ships themselves, there has also been a change in what it’s possible to do on board. Silversea, which specialises in small luxury ships, now runs wellness expedition voyages complete with on-board nutritional consultations and aqua-gym classes, while luxury cruise line Seabourn has partnered with the likes of integrative medicine guru Andrew Weil to offer yoga and meditation at sea. “Our ships are essentially luxury hotels that sail the globe,” says Chris Austin, senior vice president at Seabourn. “Luxury is one of the fastest-growing sectors in travel, with affluent consumers increasingly seeking authentic and meaningful experiences, and cruising companies have recognised this, leading to a surge in luxury, experiential cruising.” Itineraries, too, are becoming more adventurous, with some cruise ships now offering expeditions to the world’s most remote destinations. “Even the savviest travellers have places on their list they have yet to visit,” explains Austin. “In 2018, we were the first line to have a scheduled port call to the island of Lanai in Hawaii, with its volcanic terrain and lush green tropical surroundings.” On Scenic Eclipse, touted to become the world’s most luxurious cruise liner when it sets sail in April, guests will be able to travel to the Arctic and Antarctica in sumptuous style. On board there will also be a submarine, two helicopters and, perhaps most impressively, a one-to-one staff ratio. And when it launches next year, the National Geographic Endurance will sail everywhere from Greenland and Norway to Russia and Alaska. Guests can watch the passing scenery from the infinity Jacuzzi or through the panoramic windows of the sauna. For those who really do develop a taste for the high life at sea, there is now even the possibility to buy a floating apartment on a luxury liner called The World. Home to just 165 apartments, the world’s largest privately owned residential yacht sails across the globe every day of the year, on an itinerary that is agreed upon in advance by residents. In the first three months of the year alone, the ship will tick off Cape Town, Madagascar and the Seychelles. It’s all still cruising of course – just minus the crowds and the chaos. Could it be time to dip a toe in the water?
Left and right: Set sail in style with Seabourn Ovation Above: Ritz-Carlton Yachts make their maiden vogage this year
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BUOYANT market Custom Italian boatbuilding is making a splash and turning the ocean into a catwalk
Words: Rachel Ingram
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ade in Italy’ is one of the most powerful stamps in the business of design. The Italians are known for their sophisticated work and elegant style, particularly within the bespoke domain. While the reputation of Italian fashion, food and motoring dates back decades, one arena in which the Italians have been flourishing in recent years is boatbuilding. At the 2018 Monaco Yacht Show, Ferretti Group (owner of Riva, Ferretti Yachts, Pershing, Custom Line and CRN) unveiled five world premières and announced revenues of €420m in the first eight months of the year – up 22%, proving the power of ‘brand Italy’ is going strong. But of course, the pinnacle of yacht owning is to have your own, personally customised boat. CRN creates bespoke yachts for a discerning, international clientele. “We are probably the only brand, alongside Feadship and Lürssen, that does completely full custom,” says Stefano De Vivo, chief commercial officer of CRN. “We have some engineering naval platforms but if your dream doesn’t fit one of our platforms, we are ready to change it and design you a new one. We don’t have an interior design team that works inside the shipyard, we have interior designers that follow the build. And we don’t draw our own boats, we work with architects. We take the part of the market that really wants to dream.” The latest build to come out of the CRN atelier in Ancona is the 50m Latona, pictured on these pages. A beautiful feat of engineering, its strong personality and distinctive design – including a slim hull, elegant lines and unique use of space – immediately impressed critics.
The Latona was designed and built to meet the owner’s request for total customisation, a vision that was brought to life by a partnership formed between CRN and Italian design firm Zuccon International Project, which worked on the interiors and exteriors alongside the shipyard’s design department. The yacht draws inspiration from the timeless ‘Superconero’ of the 1960s and features four elegant decks and an underdeck with Liberty-style interiors. “This boat is the extract of the owner’s dream,” De Vivo says. “This gentleman is an illuminated industry leader. Just as he likes to bring colour to his work force, he had a dream of having a ‘Liberty’ boat. He followed every single stage and designed all of the wooden details and the embroidery. This is a great summary of what we can do – we’ve managed to create what he pictured in his mind.” When it comes to design, customers are encouraged to be as creative as they can. “I prefer to build something that not everybody’s going to like,” De Vivo says. “This owner has imagination and I think you can see that. On top of that, he’s changed the layout to suit his needs. The layout is a little bit weird, but I think it’s amazing how his master cabin has great space; it’s enormous. The pool is also very functional because they have a lot of little kids so during the day they can swim there and relax without being scared that the kids are at sea.” CRN is currently constructing three megayachts, including two 62m vessels (M/Y CRN 137 and M/Y CRN 138) and the 79m M/Y CRN 135, which will become the second-largest yacht ever built at the Ancona shipyard. »
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“I think the most exciting upcoming launch will be the 79m, not only because of the size but because we’re still going to launch it on the slipways – for me that’s full romanticism,” De Vivo says. “It’s how we used to build before the yachting industry started using syncrolifts. You get goose bumps when you see this thing that weighs 200,000 kilos moving freely and going into the water.” In November, CRN unveiled a new superyacht explorer concept, AlfaRosso. The collection has been designed by Italian firm Francesco Paszkowski Design and represents the brand’s first foray into this growing arena. It encapsulates a classic ‘explorer’ aesthetic – not dissimilar to the CRN 55m Atlante of 2015 – with hard lines and lots of exterior space for the stowage of tenders and toys, but it’s still elegant, meaning the AlfaRosso can moonlight as a pleasure boat. Whether you wish to own a pleasure or explorer vessel, a fully custom boat by CRN is an understandably lengthy process, so owners will have to be prepared to wait on average three years for delivery. But if it’s quality, bespoke Italian design you’re after, it’s well worth the wait. crn-yacht.com
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FRIENDLY COMPETITION Ferretti Group CEO Alberto Galassi compares Italian and British boatbuilding
Tempus: As Italian boatbuilders, what do you do differently from the British shipyards? Alberto Galassi: Is there any difference between a Ferrari and a Jaguar? Or a Ferrari and an Aston Martin? They’re both beautiful cars but it’s a completely different style. I think the very best designers are Italian. There’s a ‘plus’ in Italian design, otherwise you wouldn’t have a British shipyard involving an Italian firm. I think Princess’s decision to involve Pininfarina (the Italian luxury design house) says it all. The British are getting a lot of influence from us – I hope one day to get some influence from them as well. This is my personal bet with Antony Sheriff (CEO of Princess Yachts). I say: “Antony, stop copying, it’s my time to come and copy something from you.” And you’re not upset by being copied? I like to have a very good competitor. There’s room for everybody. The reality is that if the market is good, you can play with any taste and fulfil any requirement. Some Italian and British shipyards are good competitors and we’re very close. We have to learn from everyone. It’s not like in F1, you don’t keep secrets. We’re very fair when we win and when we lose – we know how to lose quite well. This is a big discipline we have in Ferretti Group. When somebody does something better than us, shut up, be humble and learn. And don’t spit on the competition because even on a product you don’t understand, you dislike or believe is fundamentally wrong, there could be something smart that you could learn. We always speak of Caravaggio as being contemporary before he was considered a classic – nobody understood Caravaggio when he started with his lights and his prostitutes and his criminals in his paintings. Understanding at first means nothing. Do you think that this attitude is what makes Ferretti Group so successful? No. Firstly, it’s the privilege of having shareholders who asked us to invest, and supported us when the company was losing money. Secondly, we have a short line of command – six people. Like anyone else, we make mistakes, but we
recognise them and fix them far quicker than any other organisation in this business. The biggest strength is young people who are motivated and have freedom of operation. The more freedom you give to the management, the better results you get out of them because they feel like it’s their own company and they dare to risk. Sometimes, with young people, you have to let them go because they see what I don’t see. This is the secret of Ferretti Group. It’s very simple – good people and the best designers in the world. A suggestion that I received from an old man who was making cars at the age of 50, he started his business at the age of 50 in 1947, and he told me: “Young man, you have to hire people better than you to work for you otherwise you don’t need it.” His name was Enzo Ferrari. It’s very good advice. What’s doing well in the British market right now? If you mean British citizens who have our boats there are many, but they don’t keep them in England. Riva’s doing very well in England. The British market is important, but owners keep the boats in Spain, Greece or Italy. The Channel is not the ideal location for yachting. One customer, a famous artist, keeps a Riva in the lakes. Of all the announcements you’ve made for 2019, what are you most excited about? Can I pick three? The Custom Line 140 because it’s the most successful line in Ferretti Group together with Riva; the AlfaRosso vessel designed by Francesco Paszkowski – that I like very much because it can be anything: it can be an explorer, it can be a pleasure yacht. The third one that I love is the Pershing 170. This was very challenging because the owner of such a luxury boat wants speed and impressive performance, and to be fast at 170ft is a very challenging exercise for the technical design. ferrettigroup.com
A PLACE in the SUN Discover why Kaplankaya is about to become the hot new billionaire’s playground Words: Rachel Ingram
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hen Porto Cervo was created by Prince Shah Karim Al Hussaini, Aga Khan IV, and his board of investors, it flourished from an unassuming Sardinian village into a haven for well-to-do travellers. A billionaire’s playground beloved by yacht owners, the innovative development is a prime example of rural developments done well. It’s this exclusive precedent that the owners of Kaplankaya had in mind when they purchased a five million sqm plot of land on the southwest coast of Turkey. One of the best kept secrets in luxury travel, Kaplankaya is an emerging haven for discerning globetrotters and property investors. Located just a 30-minute boat ride across the bay from Bodrum, and an hour’s drive from the airport, the destination is in the midst of a development that will transform a wild stretch of coastline into a town in its own right. When complete, it will comprise two high-end hotels, several exclusive residential communities and a state-of-the-art marina where visitors will be able to sail their yachts directly from the nearby Greek islands. Already open is Six Senses Kaplankaya, a wellness-focused five-star resort that’s home to the largest Six Senses spa in the world. Tempus visited the hotel to find out why travellers and investors alike are flocking to this beautiful spot on the Aegean coast. »
Six Senses Kaplankaya is the resort town’s first development
Left: Hammam at Six Senses Kaplankaya Spa Right: Ocean views from the residences
DESPITE AMBITIOUS PLANS FOR THE AREA, PRESERVATION OF NATURAL HABITAT IS IMPORTANT
MIND, BODY & SOUL The first thing to note about Kaplankaya is the surplus of green space. You barely realise you’re entering a resort as you drive the winding road through lush, wild landscape towards the coast. Despite ambitious plans for the area, preservation of the natural habitat is important and of the 4.8 million sqm of land Kaplankaya occupies, developers will only build on 690,000 sqm – 15% of the total space. Six Senses Kaplankaya follows this ethos. The sumptuous hotel, which has its own full-time sustainability manager, is set into the coastline and features 75 guest rooms and suites, and 66 villas overlooking the ocean. The property hugs the hillside, ensuring all villas – which range from one-bedroom properties with private plunge pools to generous 185sqm three-bedroom Seaview Pool Residences – have uninterrupted views. Innovative architecture means that residences blend into the surrounding environment, while a clever layout and modular design ensures each villa feels secluded and homely while being light and airy. A welcome touch is that the roads around the resort are built purely for walking and buggies, which staff drive for guests on request. The closest main road lies 1km from the sea, meaning you’ll never hear the sound of a vehicle while you’re soaking up the sun on one of the hotel’s three beaches. In fact, if you arrive by yacht or helicopter you need never even see a car. Guests are thoroughly spoilt, with myriad facilities including indoor and outdoor swimming pools and a 10,000sqm spa and health centre. Focusing on
full-body wellness, the state-of-the-art spa offers a staggering variety of facilities and treatments for the mind and body. Guests can work with experts to create a personalised programme filled with treatments, high-tech therapies, nutrition plans and fitness classes. After working up a sweat, feast on seasonal Aegean and Mediterranean cuisine at the hotel’s three restaurant and three bars – most ingredients are picked from the resort’s organic garden. While the al fresco Mezze by the Sea is perfect for a romantic meal of fresh seafood under the stars, a highlight for health-concious visitors is the Eat With Six Senses dining experience where guests enjoy a raw meal at the chef ’s table at The Alchemy Bar. It’s here that visitors can also sign up for interactive workshops and learn to make things like handmade organic body scrubs.
A SECOND HOME The ultimate aim of Kaplankaya’s founder, Turkish businessman and property developer Burak Öymen, is to develop a second home community. As such, residences are a key. Six Senses Kaplankaya houses villas that are privately owned but managed and maintained by the hotel. The first phase of 76 residences is already complete and nearly sold out, but a second phase of 78 villas, sitting just above the first, is in its final stages of development. These second-phase homes are on the market for between €1.3m and €5m and vary in size from 175sqm and 600sqm net, excluding patios, swimming pool and gardens. While owners can decorate their own villas to their own taste, if they wish to take advantage of Six Senses’
incredible designers (or be able to rent out villas through the hotel when they’re not in use), they can choose one of the interiors packages featuring simple, contemporary and stylish furnishings from €150,000.
THE NEXT PORTO CERVO Also in process is the construction of a hilltop village at 320m, made up of residences, restaurants and cafés with incredible views. There’ll also be a neighbourhood of larger homes further along the coast, where owners are already starting to work with Kaplankaya’s teams of architects – from firms including Foster + Partners, Stephen Holl, and OAB – to design bespoke properties. Perhaps the most exciting development is the harbour, due to open in phases from this year. The marina will be fully licensed so that yacht owners can sail in directly from the Greek islands and ‘check in’ to Turkey without having to visit any other passport check points, as is currently the case. This insiders’ tip is bound to quickly add Kaplankaya to the summer yachting circuit. While all these developments are certainly going to attract attention, founder Öymen is determined not to lose Kaplankaya’s key building blocks: wellness and community. “The philosophy is about reconnecting with yourself and reconnecting with the people around you,” he explains. “We don’t want this to be a retreat, we want to be able to provide a setting where people can reconnect and feel that sense of presence again and carry that back with them.” kaplankaya.com
DESTINATION
Kaplankaya’s marina will be located in this beautiful cove
A WORLD APART Frequent travellers are swapping hotel suites and pieds-Ă -terre for a new breed of fully serviced apartments complete with five-star treatment. Welcome to the residences Words: Michelle Johnson
Five-star hotel perks and independent privacy combine at The Beekman Residences, New York
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ust as the way we live and work has evolved, so too has the way we’re travelling. Increasingly, frequent travellers have been seeking a ‘home from home’ experience as an alternative to a hotel room or suite, but without losing any creature comforts. This has led to a boom in hotel residences – the perfect blend of hotel and house, these fully furnished apartments or villas benefit from five-star perks and services while offering guests the privacy of a home. Residents can make the most of the hotel facilities, club membership, 24-hour room service and suchlike, while still having their own independence.
For some brands, residences are fast becoming a crucial offering and now account for a significant percentage of their portfolio. Some are even available to buy. From part-ownership of far flung beach villas to fully-owned serviced penthouses which can be rented out when not in use – a service that’s handled by the hotel –these second homes are giving investors another opportunity to expand from the traditional landscape of property investment. Discover more from the fully stocked world of luxury residences as Tempus traverses the globe to bring you a guide to the most exciting residences available for rental or purchase right now. »
SWITZERLAND | SIX SENSES RESIDENCES CRANS-MONTANA Set to open in 2021, Six Senses Residences Crans-Montana is a collection of 17 fully serviced residences in the heart of the Swiss Alps – and thanks to the project’s special license, 13 of these sumptuously kitted out apartments are available to buy for non-Swiss nationals as second homes. Ranging in size from 210 to 330 sqm, the four- to fivebedroom properties are all sustainably designed using local materials to blend in beautifully with the surrounding Alpine views, and are well within walking distance of the buzzing après-ski area in Crans. If you prefer to stay closer to home, residents will be able to benefit from the fivestar resort’s two restaurants, bar, and communal terrace offering phenomenal views. If that’s not enough, a 2,000 sqm Six Senses Spa will provide unique Alpine therapies and treatments, gym and swimming pool, and separate spa area for children and teenagers offering adapted treatments. Continuing the brand’s commitment to responsible luxury, Six Senses Residence Crans-Montana will also utilise energy-efficient systems throughout, with modern energy and water technologies making the most of renewable lighting, ozone protection and more. This is a residence worth waiting for. Prices start at £4.7m cransmontana-residences.com
PROPERTY THAILAND | FOUR SEASONS RESIDENCE KOH SAMUI This opulent owner’s residence by Thailand’s Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui is the creative brainchild of famed hotel designer Bill Bensley, who injects a mix of southern-style furnishings, tropical rosewood highlights and custommade artwork into each residence. The 11 unique villas range from one to five bedrooms and feature unrivalled views of the surrounding islands and crystalline ocean from private infinity plunge pools. Personal chef and butler are provided, while a private yacht and chauffeured limousine are on hand to take care of transport for the duration of your stay. fourseasons.com
MONTENEGRO | THE CHEDI RESIDENCES, LUŠTICA BAY These opulent waterfront residences by five-star Chedi Luštica Bay offer unrivalled access to the stunning Trašte Bay coastline and the UNESCO World Heritage Site fort town of Kotor. The hotel has introduced 111 residences – including studios, suites and penthouse condominiums – with all the amenities of The Chedi’s five-star service. Fully furnished with exclusive pool programmes, each residence has been built with local materials, with soft hues and terracotta rooftops giving a nod to Montenegro’s sleepy fishing villages and classic style. A perfectly peaceful and private escape. » Price on enquiry lusticabay.com
SYDNEY | ONE BARANGAROO This extravagant, landmark waterfront destination overlooks the iconic Sydney Harbour – but the view inside the property is even more exciting. The 82 bespoke new residences are designed by New York firm Meyer Davis in a range of two- to five-bedroom properties, fully serviced by Crown Resorts’ six-star hotel. With housekeeping, concierge, valet, spa and fitness and a host of dining options within the Wilkinson Eyre-designed building, this is a truly unique way of living. From £5,175,000 onebarangaroo.com
NEW YORK | RESIDENCES AT THE BEEKMAN Located in the heart of Lower Manhattan’s financial district, these one- to three-bedroom apartments offer guests some serious uptown views. Created by the mastermind behind London’s Annabel’s, Sexy Fish and The Ivy, the elaborate residences start 172ft above the New York City streets, include access to the stylish Beekman hotel services and an 11th-floor residents’ retreat offering private dining room with chef ’s table, media room and rooftop terrace. From £1,650,000 residences.thebeekman.com
PROPERTY LONDON | THE ATHENAEUM HOTEL & RESIDENCES The most prestigious area in London, Mayfair is famed for its redbrick Victorian townhouses, fine-dining restaurants, high-end boutiques and Savile Row tailors. Now guests can get a taste of the city with their own Athenaeum Hotel & Residences townhouse. Ideal for families or couples seeking privacy, each residence is fully serviced by the hotel’s team, benefiting from twice-daily maid service and 24-hour concierge and in-room dining – as well as skip-the-queue bookings into restaurant Galvin at The Athenaeum. Guests also have exclusive access to new private club The View and the REN spa and fitness centre. The result? All the perks of hotel life but with your own private front door. athenaeumhotel.com
LUXURY BY DESIGN Interior designer Nicky Dobree shows us inside the exclusive ski lodges closest to her heart
Nicky Dobree’s own chalet, Ferme De Moudon, is the epitome of alpine luxury
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nown as the ‘queen of ski chalet design’, Nicky Dobree is the woman behind many of Europe’s most beautiful alpine homes. One of Britain’s leading interior designers, she specialises in creating luxurious, bespoke interiors for private clients. Designing a lodge in the mountains comes with some special challenges – sub-zero temperatures and pedestrian-only zones can have an impact on the build. But you only have to look at her own chalet, Ferme De Moudon in the French village of Les Gets, to understand why this is her niche. “My design style is classic, contemporary, timeless, elegant and – above all – comfortable,” she says. “I always start with the wood, as the type of timber that you choose will completely affect the overall look and feel of a chalet. Once this has been chosen, I then plan a good lighting scheme, as timber absorbs so much light.” With a portfolio of beautiful properties under the belt, Dobree has become the first port of call for many of London’s most discerning alpine homeowners. Here, she reveals the favourite chalets she’s worked on in Europe and the design work that went into them.
ST MORITZ Being one of the most sought-after ski resorts in the world, property in St Moritz is not easy to come by. The owners of this lakeside chalet had been coming to the resort all their lives and acquired a plot of land in the highly prized region of Silvaplana, Switzerland. We worked from the ground up to design and build what has now become their alpine family home. While the exterior was modernist, my challenge was to inject the chalet with as much warmth, individuality and local character as possible, while maintaining a strong contemporary look. I had around 300m2 spread over three storeys to work with, in which I had to include five bedrooms, five bathrooms and a vast open-plan living area with epic views over Lake Silvaplana. My favourite design feature from this chalet is the sushi buffet from the Campana brothers that greets you as you enter. It’s so unexpected and sets the tone for the rest of the chalet. It is such a wonderful reflection of the client, who is passionate about art and colour.
GSTAAD This four-bed apartment was designed as part of the exclusive Alpina Gstaad – a superior, five-star Swiss hotel that has re-defined luxury and alpine chic. My brief was to design a family home to accommodate the client’s extensive art collection with a nod to an ‘east meets west’ theme. This is apparent from the moment you enter the apartment. Silk wallpaper lines the entrance wall against which a red lacquered Christian Liaigre console table sits. Large double doors made from timber open onto the sitting room where you are drawn to a giant Buddha statue beyond. Panelled ceilings create intimacy within the dining room. Tartan woollen curtains add warmth and the dark wooden table adds contrast to the timber and counterbalances the metal clad fireplace opposite. A pair of large sculptures draw the eye in. In the bedrooms, carpet adds softness underfoot. Tall upholstered headboards with bespoke linens and cashmere curtains are the perfect retreat at the end of the day. The apartment features a luxurious and spacious master bed, a guest twin bedroom, a double bedroom and a quadruple bunk bed room for children and their friends who visit.
Photography: Courtesy of Philip Vile
INTERIORS
MY DESIGN STYLE IS CLASSIC, CONTEMPORARY,
TIMELESS,
ELEGANT AND ABOVE ALL COMFORTABLE
SAAS FEE
VAL-D’ISÈRE My brief on this occasion was to design an alpine retreat for my client’s family and friends. The penthouse, perched at the top of the La Canadienne building with views across Val d’Isère’s mountain range, was a wonderful starting point. Working with local contractors we built the space to be just that. A rare double height space in the sitting room draws your eye to the views and creates a real sense of space. Sunlight pours through the windows in the mornings, tempting you out on to the piste. We used old reclaimed timber to clad the some of the walls and we plastered others in white to let the light bounce back in. The pale blue colour palette running throughout the French apartment creates harmony and adds a contemporary contrast to the wood tones and neutral coloured curtains, blinds and soft furnishings. In the open plan sitting room, I designed the sofas and upholstered them in linen and wool. They sit in front of a Ralph Lauren timber coffee table, grounded by a chunky sisal rug. Fur cushions and cashmere throws were then added another textural contrast and invite you to snuggle down by the fire and relax. The slate fireplace was designed using the local stone which is echoed on the kitchen worktops, too.
When I was asked to design a chalet in Saas Fee for an English family and their four children, I become utterly charmed by this small, rustic, French village. Set in the valley overlooked by a 13,400m glacier, it’s in a great spot for high altitude. However, what I hadn’t appreciated was that narrow streets meant no cars, so this made this build particularly challenging. Inside the old timber chalet, the stone staircase acts as the central spine and the glass balustrade, underlit by LEDs and topped with a hand-stitched leather hand rail, keeps it light. Contrasting the sleek elements of the staircase is a rough stone wall which runs the full height of the chalet and leads you up to the sitting room on the top floor where large glass windows open on to the mountains and flood the interior with natural light. The sitting room is a soft palette of wool and velvet – the perfect place to relax in front of the fire at the end of a day’s skiing. In the large semi open plan floor is a large oak dining table with colourful plaid upholstery on the chairs. The antler chandelier with its pheasant feather shades hangs above and together with the ibex mounted on the stone wall, act as a reminder of the hunting heritage of the valley. All five bedrooms below are cosy with carpet underfoot, each richly layered with upholstered woollen headboards and fur throws all from the ND Collection. My favourite spot in this chalet is the exterior terrace – I could sit for hours in front of the outdoor fire enjoying the stillness and beauty of the landscape. There something utterly magical and humbling about the mountains that never ceases to amaze. nickydobree.com
OUR LITTLE
secret
Paola Diana, founder and chairman of the Diana Group, lifts the lid on the extraordinary – and extraordinarily discreet – world of luxury lifestyle management
Words: Rachel Ingram
I
hate the word concierge,” says Paola Diana, as we enjoy a coffee in Mayfair members’ club 5 Hertford Street. “People understand immediately what we are talking about when we say it, but the word has been ruined by many players in the market. Concierge has become mass, while luxury, which is about being bespoke and discreet, should be the opposite.” We’re talking about the exclusive world of lifestyle management, which discreetly runs the lives of world’s most powerful personalities, families and business leaders across the globe. As wealthy clients – because these services are certainly not cheap – are focusing on their oftenhectic work and social lives, there are companies that step in to take care of everything from shopping and holiday planning to recruitment of personal staff and school applications. Their aim? To give their clients the most valuable asset in the world – time. Diana is founder of the Diana Group, which comprises three companies – Sigillus, Nanny & Butler and Supreme PA – which provide lifestyle management and recruitment services to high net worth individuals, families and corporations around the world. Here, she gives us a sneak peek inside her secretive world. »
LIFESTYLE
YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. WE’RE USING OUR CONNECTIONS,
SOME OF WHICH ARE PRICELESS, SO WE REALLY WANT TO KEEP IT EXCLUSIVE
Tempus: What does Sigillus mean? Paola Diana: Sigillus is a Latin term – it’s a little bit difficult to understand but it gives the idea of exclusivity. I founded Sigillus three years ago because I found a lack of luxury lifestyle management services in the market. At Diana Group we set ourselves in the top high-end – this includes our membership prices. Some people can’t afford it but this works well for us because we don’t want to have clients who pretend to have everything and pay nothing. You get what you pay for at the end of the day, especially within the luxury sector. It’s also because we’re using our connections, some of which are priceless, so we really want to keep it exclusive. What are the underlying values of the Diana Group’s companies? As an entrepreneur, I’m very honest with my clients and my members. I don’t make promises I can’t deliver, which makes us trustworthy. We try to deliver as much as possible but sometimes you just can’t deliver – maybe it’s not your fault, maybe it’s just the system. The key is to find a solution, which we work 24 hours per day in order to find. I focus on quality, not quantity. We also do everything in house. What services do you provide? It’s really diverse. We may have a single, successful male banker who needs time, so we provide him with the time he doesn’t have: We do shopping errands for him, we organise his weekend trips and his parties, we find the perfect supercar for him or source a jewel because he wants to create a bespoke bracelet with specific stones. On the other end of the spectrum, we have the families who need our education consultancy. They need to find the best school or kindergarten for their children. Often, they call us even before the children are born and we provide maternity nurses and nannies. It’s like the circle of life. When they trust us, they naturally come back to us. We source properties, too, particularly for people who have just relocated to London and don’t have
many connections. We help them join private members’ clubs, find the best parties to go, and so on. Our job is completely different every day. It’s never boring. Are most of your clients based in London? No. Many of our clients travel constantly and don’t live in one place, or they have multiple residences. They could be in the Caribbean for three months, in India for three months and in Switzerland for another three. This is the kind of clientele we have. I have an office in London, one in Rome and one in Milan. From our headquarters in London we take care of all the requests worldwide. What’s your average client like? The average client is very busy, works hard and has a really intense social life. For them, time is the most precious thing they have, so that’s why they need us to be fast. They also need us to be sharp and effective so we don’t waste their time. Sometimes my consultants will say, “We should ask for more information.” But I say, “No, our clients don’t have the time, so we just have to figure it out.” What are some of the most extraordinary requests you’ve received? I think many of the requests are extraordinary. But, again, I find them normal. Our clients can be very particular. One client, for instance, want to have all their furniture wherever they go. We once organised a special safari trip for them and literally sent the bed with the mattress ahead of the stay. We can also organise the best parties. We had a Russian client at the beginning who wanted to have ice everywhere in his party, and we found the right way to provide that. We can do everything. It’s only a matter of cost because, of course, it’s expensive. But if you have the money, and if you really want to have whatever you want, just be eccentric. Just go for it. Nothing’s stopping you. dianagroup.it
SAVE the DATE Your luxury events calendar for February and March 2019
Superyachts
Motoring
The yachting season kicks off in style at the Miami International Boat Show (14-18 February). Sail to sunnier climes across the Atlantic and soak up a showcase of the latest yacht launches, before toasting the sunset at one of the many after-show parties. Following closely on its heels is the Dubai International Boat Show (26 February-2 March), a glamorous affair with superyachts and sumptuous soirees against the dramatic backdrop of the Arabian city.
Speed into spring with not one but three car shows. Revving up in Paris, there’s Salon Rétromobile (6-10 February), arguably the greatest presentation of classic and contemporary cars in Europe. Next up is The London Classic Car Show (14-17 February), a favourite of classic car enthusiasts in the capital. Over in Switzerland, the Geneva Motor Show (7-17 March) is the place to discover the latest innovations in motoring. The only question is which to choose?
Art & culture Whether you’re a collector or simply an enthusiast, the spring season offers plenty in terms of inspiration for art lovers. Discover local and international art from emerging and renowned artists and galleries at Art Dubai (20-23 March) and Art Basel Hong Kong (29-31 March). Closer to home in Switzerland, discover the craftsmanship of timekeeping at Baselworld (21-26 March), an annual fair which brings many of the best watchmakers in the world together in one spectacular arena (left).
Film With awards season already exciting critics and fans alike by celebrating the past year’s most dazzling on-screen performances – and a surprising and refreshingly diverse selection of winners at the Golden Globes – the competition is heating up for the two biggest events in the year’s film calendar. The British Academy Film Awards (10 February) will pit Spike Lee’s BlacKkKlansman against historical drama The Favourite and musical A Star is Born for Best Film. The Oscar nominations run along similar lines, with this year’s Academy Awards (24 February) also tipping Alfonso Cuarón’s Roma and Marvel’s Black Panther for glory. For those already looking ahead to next year’s biggest would-be blockbusters, the Berlinale (Berlin International Film Festival, 7-17 February) kicks off festival season with the world premiere of female director Lone Scherfig’s The Kindness of Strangers.
Sport Following a record-breaking year in 2018, the Cheltenham Festival (1215 March) is more glamorous than ever, offering Chez Roux Private Boxes, catered by Albert Roux, and Final Fences Boxes, where racegoers can be at the very heart of the action at the finish line. Beginning with Champion Day, Ladies Day, St Patrick’s Thursday and, finally, the historic Gold Cup race on Friday, this meet is not-to-miss for horseracing fans. Across the globe, the world-renowned St Maarten Heineken Regatta (28 February-3 March) offers four days of world-class racing, pitting 37 countries against each, along with four nights of unbeatable parties.
Fashion Whether your eye was on Men’s or Women’s Fashion Week, last year’s S/S 2019 collections rocked the status quo with bold trends and runwayto-retail innovation. This year looks sure to continue the digital revolution, as well shaking up the runway at Men’s Fashion Week with the ‘broken suit’ styles presented by the likes of Valentino and Dior. Once Men’s Fashion Week finishes in New York (4-6 February), after its January travels through London, Milan and Paris, it’s time for Women’s FashionWeek to take to the catwalk. Hitting New York (7-15 February), London (15-19 February), Milan (19-25 February) and Paris (25 February-5 March), expect A/W 2019 to be full of surprises – and surprising accessories – to delight every taste.
For more exciting events, visit our website: WWW.TEMPUSMAGAZINE.CO.UK
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