Tempus Magazine | Issue 66 | February - March 2020

TIMELESS INSPIRATION

EXCLUSIVE IMAGES

ANCIENT ARTS The traditional techniques taking Blancpain into a bright new era of design

TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY | FUTURE OF FILM | HIGH-SPEED ENGINEERING ISSUE

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WELCOME

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he turn of the decade promised a new Roaring Twenties and, so far, it has not disappointed. Already it seems that 2020 is a year of conscious change in the business sphere, particularly when it comes to safeguarding the planet. At this year’s World Economic Forum in Davos, environmental activist Greta Thunberg’s rallies and the continuing impact of Australian wildfires seem to have galvanised a renewed fervour for climate action among international business leaders and the world’s wealthiest (92).

Likewise, as Britain officially leaves the European Union, industries are putting into place creative, holistic strategies that may help shape new economic trends. There’s little doubt that this will be a decade of decisive action and fast technological innovation, and one where our environmental impact will be felt across all sectors.

The question that remains, then, is how do we transform our good intentions into sure economic strategy?

According to Amanda Nevill CBE, who this February steps down as CEO of the British Film Institute after 17 years, it is the responsibility of those in leadership roles to “make things happen”. It was apparent that her success in supporting the unprecedented growth of Britain’s film industry as a financial and cultural export has been down to an unflappable confidence in the face of change. Not only did the BFI embrace the opportunities of a changing industry but, under Amanda’s leadership, it pioneered them, helping develop an £8bn industry of home-grown talent. Find out more on page 64.

A similar ethos is apparent among the members of The Conduit, an eco-friendly Mayfair members’ club. There, the message of co-founder Paul van Zyl is that changing times could provide the “greatest opportunity we’ve ever been given” to create a more innovative and kinder way of doing business (14).

Elsewhere in the issue, we look at the world through a different lens in our celebration of the Travel Photographer of the Year Awards (42), and embrace Tempus’ horological heritage with an inside look at Blancpain’s famed Métiers d’Arts workshop, where we learn more about the Japanese fine art of Binchōtan (32). Keeping with our global theme, we head to Malaysia (38), Alta Badia (22) and Champagne (26) to explore surprising new luxury trends, join what might be the fastest car ever made as it gets ready to break the land speed record (56), and take influence from two extremes of modern architecture (70 and 86).

As the time for reflection gives way to decisive action, Tempus takes inspiration from some of the best in every business.

Enjoy the issue Michelle Johnson Editor Tempus

Tempus magazine is published by Vantage Media Group. www.vantagemediagroup.co.uk © 2020 Vantage Media Limited Articles and other contributions published in this journal may be reproduced only with special permission from the Publishers. The Publishers, Vantage Media Limited, accept no responsibility for any views or statements made in the articles and other contributions reproduced from any other source. No responsibility is accepted for the claims in advertisements appearing in this journal and the Publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertisements at their discretion.

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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL TEAM

Rory FH Smith On the brink of a comfortable retirement, would you choose the quiet life or take on a land speed record challenge with potentially the fastest rocket-powered car on the planet? Tempus’ new motoring editor and automotive afficiando finds out on page 56.

Editor Michelle Johnson michelle@tempusmagazine.co.uk Creative Director Ross Forbes ross@tempusmagazine.co.uk Wealth Editor Lysanne Currie

Lauren Hill Travel writer Lauren turns her expert eye to the hottest new trends in desert architecture on page 86, as well as taking us to Zambia for a sustainable safari trip like no other (page 50).

Motoring Editor Rory FH Smith Sub-Editor Dominique Dinse COMMERCIAL TEAM Events & Partnerships Director Georgia Peck georgia@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Daniel Pembrey Based between London and Amsterdam, Daniel is a journalist and author of the Henk van der Pol detective series. On page 70 he travels to Pennsylvania to examine the lasting legacy of America’s great modern architect, Frank Lloyd Wright.

Sales & Content Executive Freddy Clode freddy@tempusmagazine.co.uk VANTAGE MEDIA LIMITED Chairman Floyd Woodrow Managing Director Peter Malmstrom Operations Director Colin Clark colin@tempusmagazine.co.uk GET IN TOUCH Tempus Magazine Vantage Media Group 22 South Audley St London W1K 2NY +44 (0) 203 519 1005 info@tempusmagazine.co.uk www.tempusmagazine.co.uk tempusmagazine.co.uk @tempusmagazine @tempusmagazine

Responsibly printed

COVER IMAGE Blancpain Villeret Métiers d’Art Binchōtan © Blancpain Article on page: 32

Printed by Park Communications, UK on Edixion Offset (FSC® certified paper) using vegetable inks and sustainable printing methods. www.parkcom.co.uk 7

CONTENTS

10 The luxe list This season’s top 10 must-haves 14 Money to burn The Conduit’s Paul van Zyl says sustainability is the ultimate economic opportunity 16 The world at your feet Audley Travel’s most extraordinary destinations for every continent 22 Height of luxury A unique gastronomic journey across Alta Badia, Italy 26 Belle Surprise How Champagne is revolutionising wine tourism 32 Masters of art Explore the fine art of Binchōtan with Blancpain’s Métiers d’Art team 38 Golden memories Tempus rediscovers Malaysia's historic hospitality 42 Shooting stars Take a look through the lens of the Travel Photographer of the Year awards 50 Paw prints in the sand New luxury eco-lodges are shining a light on Zambia's conservation efforts 56 The need for speed Find out how the rocket-powered Bloodhound LSR is an engineering inspiration 62 Take it slow The Slow Cyclist tells us how a cross-continent dream adventure became a business 64 Film forever The BFI’s Amanda Nevill examines the rise and rise of Britain’s cinematic power 70 Natural appeal We explore the architectural legacy of Frank Lloyd Wright’s UNESCO-status properties 76 Best in show How the Rolex Grand Slam of Show Jumping has revolutionised the sport 80 It’s who you know... These amazing private members’ homes are redefining exclusive living 86 Castles made of sand The desert resorts embracing the most innovative architectural trend of 2020 92 Mission: accountable Why 120 millionaires are campaigning to pay higher taxes 94 Save the date The finest events of the season 100 Tried & tasted Boodles director James Amos swaps fine jewellery for fine dining

ISSUE 66

32 Masters of art

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Š Blancpain

The LUXE LIST Our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal must-haves

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Viva Il Palio A grand tour like no other, Viva Il Palio takes automotive enthusiasts through the picturesque hills of Tuscany on a five-day motoring adventure that culminates with the historic Palio horse race in stunning Sienna. Comprising intimate five-star hotels, gourmet cuisine and, of course, some of the most idyllic driving routes in Italy, this is an unforgettable experience open to just 20 classic or modern sports cars, taking place in late June to early July 2020. Now that’s some impressive horsepower…

Book your place now by contacting chris@v-management.com. v-management.com

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Hublot Classic Fusion Gold Crystal Luxury watch brand Hublot unveiled 50% of its 2020 novelties at Dubai’s LVMH watch week in January, with the aim to hit stores by April. Our favourite is this unique, elegant new Classic Fusion (left) boasting the rarest form of gold on Earth: gold crystal. It’s nearly impossible to find in its naturally occurring form, so Hublot artisans heat purest 24-carat gold to melting point to create gold diamonds.

Just 20% pass the brand’s inspection, which are then delicately placed on the black dial before being ‘imprisoned’ in a fine transparent lacquer.

Available in 38mm or 45mm, it’s powered by the HUB1112 calibre with automatic winding and a 42-hour power reserve, and finished with a black alligator and rubber strap, all to change the face of timekeeping…

Viva Les Voiles If one driving tour wasn’t enough for our calendars, this French voyage along the Riviera will ensure you experience la vie en rose. A five-day, four-night tour beginning in late September and open to just 20 classic or modern sports cars, this trip takes guests through the mesmerising scenery of Provence to arrive in Saint Tropez just in time for Les Voiles – the classic yacht regatta – with an itinerary packed with the finest hotels and a full programme of hospitality all guaranteed to put fresh wind in your sails.

Book your place now by contacting chris@v-management.com v-management.com

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My Flight Pack Created by Emmy-winning TV chef Hannah Grant and nutrition scientist Dr Stacy Sims, My Flight Pack is comprised of supplements designed to help travellers beat jetlag and travel fatigue. With business- and firstclass cabins actually more prone to dehydrated passengers, this clever product has proven a life-saver to frequent fliers and sportstars, and has been a go-to in celebrity goodybags this awards season. Take your superhydrator supplements pre-take off, mid-flight and just before landing and you’ll step off the runway ready to take on the world. myflightpack.com

hublot.com

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Maddox Gallery With three stunning London galleries – on Maddox Street, Shepherd Market and Westbourne Grove – as well as locations in Los Angeles and Gstaad, Maddox Gallery is one of the most exciting contemporary art destinations for collectors. February will see new exhibitions come to Maddox Street (left), while Westbourne Grove and Shepherd Market continue their Winter Contemporary group exhibitions until the end of March. With works by such masters as Jean-Michel Basquiat, Banksy, Damien Hirst, The Connor Brothers and Bradley Theodore on display, Maddox Gallery is the last word in fine modern art, hosting private events, expert tours and visits from some of the biggest names in the art world throughout the year. maddoxgallery.com

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Le Namaste Opening its doors after a sumptuous €1m renovation, Consensio’s chalet Le Namaste in super-swanky Courchevel 1850 is the ultimate ski destination. With immaculate pistes, stunning scenery, exclusive bars and restaurants and beautiful boutiques on its doorstep, this chalet in the private Hameau de Cachmire boasts one of the most desired addresses in the region. Sleeping 10 adults and four children, the chalet boasts a brand new master suite and a living/ dining room with a view of the glass-enclosed kitchen – complete with chef.

The chalet also hosts a spa with gym area, indoor swimming pool, treatment room, hammam and sauna – all perfect for sloping off in luxury.

To book Le Namaste, call 0203 393 0833 consensiochalets.co.uk

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Athena by Minka Jewels Founded by gemmologist Lucy Crowther and handmade in London, Minka Jewels is known for putting rare precious gems into the heart of its modern collections, as well as its bespoke and custom pieces. Finely crafted jewellery is inspired by styles from around the world and Crowther’s latest collection, Athena, is an homage to grand Athenian architecture and the Greek goddess of wisdom from which it takes its name. The sculptural collection celebrates colour with vibrant gemstones – including tourmaline and aquamarine – in remarkable natural hues and enveloped in pure 18-carat yellow gold. A stunning gift for someone special, or just for you. minkajewels.com

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Soleil Lalique Crystal Edition The House of Lalique is chasing off the last of the winter cold with Soleil’s new scent of sunshine, presented in an exclusive 1,500ml crystal flacon limited to just 20 signed editions. The 25cm high sun-shaped flacon is made from 5kg of crystal and adorned with hand-painted rays of 23.5 carat gold – all to highlight the honey tones of the Extrait de Parfum inside. A Lalique crystal pearl is wound round the neck of the bottle, inspired by the brand’s Art Deco 1927 collection. The perfume itself has top notes of cardamom, bitter almond and mandarin, heart notes of rose, jasmine, pear granita, caffe latte, and base notes of sandalwood, cashmeran, olibanum and orris – scent from heaven… lalique.com

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L’Orbe Vodka x Caviar Following five years of research and development into rare ingredients, premium spirits brand Pernod Ricard has released its first ‘impossible pairings’ in L’Orbe Vodka x Caviar. L’Orbe aims to disrupt sensory experiences by bringing complexity to white spirits, creating new infusions through patented encapsulation technology. L’Orbe’s first edition highlights the rarity of caviar with the delicacy of vodka. The blend produced a subtle combination of buttery and nutty notes with the fresh taste of the sea. Currently available at venues including Dukes Hotel, the Connaught, Wiltons and Annabel’s, it is now available to buy exclusively at Fortnum & Mason. lorbe.com

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Fujifilm GFX Take your travel photography to the next level with Fujifilm’s range of high-spec cameras. Sponsors of the Travel Photographer of the Year Awards (celebrated on page 42), Fujifilm’s 80year history has seen the brand develop the world’s highest level of photographic image quality for digital cameras. Its most advanced to date is the GFX series, which uses the integration of a large 43.8mm x 32.9mm CMOS sensor with over 100 million pixels, making this the highest-class resolution mirrorless digital camera ever produced. With a range of lenses, accessories and gadgets to choose from, this is quality hardware for image enthusiasts. Smile! fujifilm.eu/uk

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BUSINESSES MUST BECOME MORE SUSTAINABLE...

THIS IS THE GREATEST OPPORTUNITY WE’VE EVER BEEN GIVEN

MONEY TO BURN The transition away from a carbon economy is the most urgent topic of the decade, and big businesses and wealthy investors must take the climate crisis into account to avoid risking profit and planet alike, writes The Conduit co-founder Paul van Zyl

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ature doesn’t lie. Images from the Australian wildfires – singed koalas on oxygen masks and entire cities shrouded in thick smoke – have had a huge impact on us all. But the truth is that we’re seeing once-in-a-century wildfires and flooding, uncontrollable and incredibly destructive storms every year, all around the world.

It’s clear we must move away from a carbon economy, and so to make that transition we need every section of society to put their shoulder to the wheel. Businesses must become more sustainable, but they shouldn’t think of this as a defensive reflex; it is the greatest opportunity we’ve ever been given. There are great possibilities – not just to build a more sustainable and ethical economy, but actually in terms of technological innovation and new investment streams.

Our private members’ club, The Conduit, emerged after we spent a lot of time attending events like the Davos World Economic Forum, TED and the Skoll World Forum in Oxford. The Conduit is a home for a diverse community passionate about driving positive social change; we wanted to create a place where changemakers could meet, network, and ultimately tackle some of those big global challenges and opportunities that we face today.

Of course, we needed to create a space that was consistent with these values, so we redeveloped our 40,000 sq ft building in Mayfair with the intention of creating a sustainable oasis using environmentally friendly materials and energy sources. Our third- and fourth-floor kitchens are single-use plastic free and our food is sustainably sourced. We have a bar, business lounge, event spaces, library and an 80 ft biophilic green wall that’s great for air quality but also looks beautiful.

The challenges of retrofitting a building to be environmentally sound are that it takes time and costs money. However, the financial return comes much faster than you might think, and 14

it’s a significant draw for our investors. In fact, investment companies such as Julius Baer, whose clients control enormous resources, are thinking about sustainability and conscious consumption and are being urged by their clients to allocate money to businesses working to accelerate positive change as well as create return.

This shift in intention is apparent in where people choose to shop as well. We’re seeing more ethical fashion brands, seasonal and vegan food trends, and the rise of electric vehicles in the automotive industry.

As denialists are proven wrong, I think we will begin to increasingly see changes in our politics and legislation, because it’s clear that we have to find a way to replenish our natural capital. And there is a significant financial drive to finding these solutions; think about the supply chains of big businesses, particularly within food and agriculture, manufacture and property. There’s a genuine profit risk when areas are regularly flooding or weather patterns change, and if a company doesn’t take climate into account, it will lose its investors’ and stakeholders’ money.

This means businesses will soon find themselves wedged between individuals demanding better practises, real financial impact and government regulation. Already, China has mandated rules that mean if your company is listed on two major stock exchanges, it must report on its climate and sustainability practices. Of course, we must be careful to support businesses and not be too heavyhanded in imposing regulations, but as a general matter, forcing individuals and companies to take our impact into account is a necessary step.

Given the urgency of the climate crisis, it is clear that this is the decade that will be make or break across all industries – and we must rise to the challenge. theconduit.com

COLUMN

Co-founded by Paul van Zyl (left), The Conduit is a private members’ club dedicated to tackling real-world issues.

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THE WORLD AT YOUR FEET

Tailor-made travel expert Audley Travel shares its guide to the best places to visit on each continent Words: Freddy Clode

Cape Town 16

TRAVEL

NORTH AMERICA | THE DEEP SOUTH Travelling the Mississippi River from the blues bars of Memphis to the jazz clubs of New Orleans (right), it’s impossible not to get caught up in the infectious melodies brought to life every evening.

This region’s turbulent history has played an extraordinary role in reshaping the world’s musical, cultural and gastronomic landscape.

Feed your soul and senses with the heavenly flavours of southern food; dry barbecued ribs, jambalaya and gumbo served with a smile and that ever-priceless Southern hospitality. Escape these great cities to discover the region’s historic past on the Civil Rights Trail, encountering cotton fields, plantation museums and Antebellum mansions.

Contact Audley’s USA specialists on 01993 683 654

SOUTH AMERICA | THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS The Galapagos Islands is an archipelago of volcanic islands that play host to the largest number of endemic species anywhere on the planet. Famed as the birthplace of Charles Darwin’s A Theory of Evolution, the 19 islands have become the foremost destination for wildlife spotting. Yet the islands’ remarkable natural value lies not just in their diversity, but in how their inhabitants have adapted to survive the rugged landscape of these isles.

From Galapagos tortoises to the blue-footed booby, the islands have more unique species to see than anywhere else on earth; experiencing this untouched prehistoric world is an adventure that everyone should seek to undertake. » Contact Audley’s Galapagos specialists on 01993 838 359 17

ASIA | INDIA From the soulful serenity of the Himalayan peaks, to the constant chaos of Delhi’s streets and undisturbed golden beaches of Goa, India is blessed with a diverse landscape. From Kolkata to Chennai, India’s cities are in constant change, with historic Mumbai near unrecognisable from 20 years ago.

For lovers of history, Old India is very much alive in Rajasthan, where you can experience lavish architecture, stunning forts, palaces and temples and, of course, the world’s most famous tribute to love, the Taj Mahal (below left).

Elsewhere in the country, take a cruise down Kerala’s waterways, stay at a Maharaja’s Palace, roam free with tigers in India’s central parks, and soak up the culture, gastronomy and sheer natural beauty which make this country so beguiling.

Contact Audley’s India specialists on 01993 683 817

EUROPE | ICELAND Iceland is home to some of the largest glaciers in Europe as well the world’s most active volcanoes yet, for many, it’s the Northern Lights and thermal spas which make this a must-visit destination.

Enjoy the historical concert halls and houses of Reykjavik and its downtown gastronomic scene, before heading off into the wild rural country to visit the famous Blue Lagoon – a natural thermal bath surrounded by 800-yearold lava fields.

Follow this with a trek through the ice caves, hiking over glacial national parks and enjoying the thundering waterfalls and hot water blowholes of Haukadalur Geothermal Valley.

Iceland is a place to relax, unwind and admire the sheer glacial beauty of the north.

Contact Audley’s Iceland specialists on 01993 838 765 18

TRAVEL AFRICA | SOUTH AFRICA From the magnificent landscapes of the Cape Peninsula and the lagoons, lakes and rolling hills of the Garden Route, to the national parks of the Eastern Cape and exhilarating game drives, wherever you travel in South Africa it’s impossible not to be in awe of your surroundings.

South Africa is truly the world in one country, where its guests can swim with dolphins, spot the ‘big five’ on safari, scale mountains, indulge in globally acclaimed wines, and travel through the heartlands via luxury rail. Activities in abundance await the luxury traveller, whether you choose to focus on a single mission – such as visiting the historic battlefields of KwaZulu Natal – or simply admiring the penguins glide along the Western Cape. » Contact Audley’s South Africa specialists on 01993 838 858

THE ONLY MAN I ENVY IS THE MAN WHO HAS NOT YET BEEN TO AFRICA – FOR HE HAS SO MUCH TO LOOK FORWARD TO – Richard Mullin 19

AUSTRALIA | TASMANIA Tasmania has evolved from notorious penal colony to the most celebrated luxury destination in Australia, with the ingredients to delight nature lovers, culture fiends, and serious foodies alike.

Head to Cradle Mountain for exceptional views, discover the bustling arts and crafts of Salamanca Markets, or visit Port Arthur to learn about the nation’s history. Yet no trip is complete without coming face-to-face with the endangered Tasmanian Devil (below right), the species that lends it name to this paradise island.

Contact Audley’s Tasmania specialists on 01993 662 047

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TRAVEL

ANTARCTICA | ANTARCTIC CRUISE

THE AUDLEY WAY

Antarctica was the last of the continents to be discovered. It was first sighted in 1820 and took a further 75 years until a Norwegian expedition became the first to set foot on the polar desert.

With temperatures reaching -80˚C, this haunting landscape still represents the greatest challenge for mankind. For Audley, it’s also the ultimate holiday destination.

Vast icebergs, glaciers and rolling mountains create an otherworldly reality – transport yourself to another world in this surreal reality check to the power of nature.

Luxury cruises are the only way to take in this destination, and you can follow in the footsteps of explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton while sipping champagne and whale-watching. With nowhere on earth quite like it, Antarctica is the ultimate in unique adventure.

1. Authentic experiences: We go further than anyone else to fine-tune experiences around individual needs. When travel is meticulously planned around you, it doesn’t end when you get back home. It becomes an experience you’ll not only remember forever but that changes the way you see the world.

2. Unrivalled local knowledge: We have genuine experts for each and every one of our destinations, expertise that comes from having travelled many times or lived there.

Our specialists will design a trip around you, show you the highlights in a different light, and introduce you to places and experiences that others might miss.

3. Award-winning personal service: We are proud to have received a high rating from TrustPilot and a number of prestigious awards and accolades over the years recognising our commitment to providing the best possible experiences and service to our clients.

Contact Audley’s Antarctica specialists on 01993 683 796

Audleytravel.com

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St Hubertus restaurant. Š Alex Molling 22

TRAVEL

Height of luxury Escape the Alpine ski-by-numbers resorts for a unique gastronomic journey across the breathtaking terrain of Italian gem Alta Badia Words: Freddy Clode

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he Dolomites’ ever-changing landscape is as diverse as its many offerings. The endless cultural escapades in Bolzano, through to the wine region of Valle Iscaro, extend a globally renowned invitation to ski on Val Pusteria’s three sister peaks, Tre Cime di Lavaredo. As with any siblings, there is a golden child who manages to outshine the rest: in this case that is undoubtedly the resort of Alta Badia.

Nestled at the epicentre of the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site boasting more than 130km of sublime powdered slopes, Alta Badia is home to 10 resturants run by Michelinstarred chefs as well as some of the world’s most prestigious hotels.

In the quaint village of San Cassiano, fivestar boutique establishment Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa has been owned and run by the Pizzini family for three generations, and celebrates the best of the region’s gastronomic tradition and authentic Alpine design. The hotel has 52 rooms and suites, penthouse, private chalet, awardwinning spa, and three restaurants – including Norbert Niederkofler’s famed three Michelinstar restaurant, St Hubertus.

As well as the restaurant’s lush surroundings, guests here can also sample Chef Niederkofler’s creative cuisine at private events – such as the aperitif reception I enjoyed in the hotel’s library on my first evening. The chef ’s culinary journey has taken him from mastering the art of what he calls ‘standard internationalised cuisine’, which led him to achieve two Michelin stars in 2007, to ripping up the rule book and starting afresh in 2010. »

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He decided that he should stop flying in produce from all over the world and instead concentrate on selecting ingredients that can be found solely in the mountains surrounding the hotel. The benefits of this sustainable approach are clear in the unequivocally seasonal menus and choice of South Tyrol’s finest local wines.

From the hotel, it’s a mere 300m transfer to the neighbouring village of La Villa, where your cable car up to the heart of the Alta Badian slopes awaits. This is the most open and peaceful skiing I can ever recall.

Unlike other popular Alpine resorts, where it feels that one is constantly avoiding macho snowboarders and schools of children, here there is the freedom to enjoy fresh powder and undisturbed terrain unfettered by crowds.

After three hours of exhilarating skiing (yet having worked off only a fraction of my breakfast) it was time for the main act of my celestial gastronomical journey to begin: the seventh edition of the Gourmet Ski Safari.

REACHING NEW PEAKS Imagine being able to ski some of the most sought-after slopes in Europe, while stopping off at three intriguingly positioned huts where, in turn, you are met by Michelin-starred chefs ready to prepare your exclusive lunch course and wine pairing. All the more enjoyable when dining in the mountain sunshine.

Our first stop off was to Utia Tabla where we sampled two-Michelin-star-chef Alberto Faccani’s ingenious take on a classic spaghetti carbonara, comprising fresh gnocchi, wild black truffle, speck and chives, ParmigianoReggiano and an egg yolk – all paired with a glass of Müller-Thurgau.

A short ski down a relatively easy red run (when I happily discovered that wine at altitude breeds confidence) took us to our next destination, Utia Las Vegas. There we gorged on Claudio Melis’ delicious creation of barley, watercress and pickled tongue.

Three slopes later, we met our final restaurant, La Stua De Michil, where we were hosted by one of the world’s most exciting young chefs. Nicola Laera provided my favourite of the three meals, a braised venison shank with cranberries, potato rosti and mantua pumpkin, crunchy pork cheek and puccia bread made with juniper. Chef Laera pulled off the difficult fusion of flavoursome ingredients seamlessly.

REST ASSURED, THIS IS THE

MOST ENJOYABLE DAY’S SKIING ONE CAN EVER EXPERIENCE

Clockwise from top left: Nicola Laera dishes up Gourmet Ski Safari; Restaurant Limonaia; Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa; Skiing the Sellaronda. © Alex Filz Following an exhilarating day of skiing, eating and drinking, we sloped off to the spa to unwind and reinvigorate both our senses and aching muscles. Rosa Alpina’s spa offers two swimming pools, jacuzzi, steam room, hammam, Finnish sauna and dip pool – all of which I sampled in my two hour zen-filled spa break. Yet there is much more to enjoy. Views from the saunas are worth the visit alone: gazing out through the pine-panelled windows across the Dolomites as the sun sets, you can’t get much closer to bliss.

PARTY PISTE While Rosa Alpina offers a peaceful escape both on the slopes and in its resort, those of us ready to add nightlife to our mountain holiday will find we’re in luck. Every Saturday night, the bubble lift in Piz Sorega opens for just 15 minutes to shuffle revellers up the mountain to Club Mortizino, which plays host to the best parties in the region.

Four courses, four bottles and 4,000 woeful dance moves later, we’re on a snowcat driving back down an almost vertical piste – and one that is being meticulously prepared for the upcoming Slalom World Cup. It was inspiration for the next day, and my own ski challenge as I set out to complete one of the most famous circuits in Europe: the Sellaronda.

Spread over four valleys, the Sellaronda offers 30km of uninterrupted skiing. With breathtaking views at every turn, it’s one of the only ski circuits in the world where you never have to ski the same slope twice, thanks to the superbly prepared pistes and well-connected lifts that allow you, with every parallel turn, to explore new sights around the Sella mountain range.

A test of endurance taking more than five hours to complete, we finished the course with a well-deserved lunch at Rifugio Jimmy – another of the region’s stunning gastronomic venues.

Rest assured, this is the most enjoyable day’s skiing one can ever experience. Alta Badia is a land of fantasy where you can sample dishes from some of the world’s best Michelin starred chefs, ski the most respected and aesthetically pleasing slopes in Europe, and have the opportunity to sink into unparalleled luxury normally reserved for the dignitaries of a bygone era. As Andy Warhol once said, ‘everyone needs a fantasy’ – if you love to ski, then this one should be yours. rosaalpina.it altabadia.org 24

TRAVEL

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Belle Surprise As the Champagne region redefines its approach to tourism, we find out why the global heart of sparkling wine has waited until now to become the destination du jour Words: Michelle Johnson

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INDULGE

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ocated just an hour from Paris, the once-royal region of Champagne is synonymous with a sparkling wine so internationally important, no celebration would be complete without a glass.

Legend says it was Benedictine monk Dom Perignon who, in the late 1600s, invented the method of secondary fermentation in the bottle, and the world’s oldest champagne house, Ruinart, has been creating fine champagne using his method since 1729.

Today, more than 320 houses produce 90% of Champagne’s global exports – the UK alone enjoyed more than 26.8 million bottles in 2018 – and yet, unlike other prominent French wine regions, such as Bordeaux or Alsace, one would hardly call Champagne a tourist destination.

Until now.

In 2015, Champagne’s hillsides, houses and

cellars were listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites for their outstanding universal value, inspiring a new wave of opportunity.

“Champagne wine is known throughout the world as a symbol of prestige and glamour but its image has rather obscured the territory from which it originates,” says the spokesperson of experiential tourism initiative Visit La Champagne. “It is a region of history, art and culture, of unspoilt nature and exceptional heritage; kings of France were crowned and battles were fought and won, and where the art of fine living is a way of life.”

Visit La Champagne was devised by the Regional Tourism Agency of the GrandEst Region and the Comité Champagne to bring together more than 80 partners and ambassadors comprising champagne houses, hotels, restaurants and cultural sites

throughout the 34,000-hectare region. The aim is to offer authentic experiences and unprecedented access – guests can picnic in the vineyards and explore Roman cellars, cycle through villages or dine at haute restaurants.

“We have developed bespoke events and experiences across gastronomy, heritage, and oenology,” says Visit La Champagne.

This new endeavour highlights the work of the Comité Champagne, which represents every champagne producer from independent vignerons to famous houses, its role to promote the vines and wines of the region, including economic, technical and environmental development. Here, Thibaut Le Mailloux, Comité’ Champagne’s director of communications, explains the evolution of Champagne, and what tourism could mean for this most famous of wines. »

Vignoble Verzenay. © Fred Laures 27

Why do you feel Champagne has been slow to emerge as a destination?

In wine regions all over the world it has been natural to invite tourism but Champagne had never done this.

Achieving UNESCO status in 2015 opened Champagne up to the world and it became obvious that we had to change the perception from simply a wine region, to a wine tourism destination. We looked to many regions around the world for inspiration, including our neighbours, such as Alsace. Of course, Alsace has a very different experience because it was not destroyed during the First World War. Champagne was a field of ruins after it and during the 1920s, while Alsace was very beautiful. But Champagne has developed so much in recent years. The UNESCO status has triggered a lot of initiatives and entrepreneurship, but we’ve been focused more on creating a unique, experiential dimension for visitors.

How does the Visit La Champagne collaboration benefit the region?

Champagne is the authentic sparkling wine – it’s the original – and so we needed the image of the region to be consistent with the prestige of the wine. So, we all wanted the wine tourism experience in Champagne to be a cut above just visiting a few wineries.

With Visit La Champagne, we don’t just have people offering wine tours or vineyard visits. Visitors can experience the authentic Champagne, enjoy new restaurants and hotels, unique experiences, and find a region that is finally becoming very international again. Guests can explore our cellars, which have graffiti from across history – Romans, revolutions, refugees from the World Wars – but also contemporary art and emerging families. It’s like a window into the past as well as the future. We want to offer the opportunity to understand that yes, we have famous names that have been on the market for 250 years, but Champagne is also incredibly diverse. It’s an interesting moment.

Champagne is a world leader in sustainable development. Can you tell us about this?

It’s our big focus. If you look at Champagne’s recent history, the first half of the 20th century was about reclaiming the land and replanting after the World Wars and Great Depression. We’re only now reaching the climax of our potential for production. But towards the end of the 1990s, our research and development showed us the restraints of our terroir; we realised we would not be able to grow in volume. Champagne has a complicated production: you must hold a diploma to prune the vines, you must harvest by hand, there’s a long aging process in the cellars. At the same time, we saw that the climate was changing. Our grapes were ripening faster, losing acidity, average temperature had risen. So we began thinking about how to lower our environmental impact and adapt to climate change – this began as early as 2001, when we first assessed our global environmental footprint. In 2003 we were the first industry to do a carbon footprint assessment of our wine region. In those two years we launched 50 R&D programmes designed to help drop our impact and improve our biodiversity.

How does that continue today?

We have a very ambitious plan to drastically reduce

our impact. We’ve achieved good results so far – 100% of waste waters of Champagne making are collected, treated and recycled compared to only 70-80% of domestic households. We’ve dropped the use of pesticides by 50% so far. The role of the Comité Champagne is to help every single grower change their practices to protect the terroir. By working together, we have implemented these changes and are now setting even more ambitious goals. We aim to have a -25 carbon impact by 2025, and -75 in 2050.

One of the Comité’s major projects is to produce a new variety of grape. What impact will this have on the region?

Our goal is to continue to produce champagne and to keep its distinctive style and taste but with climate change, our grapes are losing acidity and gaining sugar. This project is about creating grape varieties that can adapt to the region’s new climate, which will replace or complement chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier grapes in the next 25 years. The new grapes need to keep the flavours of chardonnay, pinot noir, and meunier, but they will need to resist heat, ripen more slowly and keep their level of acidity. At the same, we want them to be naturally resistant to fungus so we can continue dropping the use of pesticides. When these are ready, they will be authorised and made available for the whole region.

How do you ensure independent vineyards compete with global brands?

Every winemaker or grower of grapes in Champagne must be part of Comité Champagne. So, even if families are competing in the market they must all work together and find a consensus in how we ensure the region thrives. This means that any development is made available for every champagne producer. For example, the technical support to convert to green practises is available to every single grape grower in the region.

We hope our sustainability practises inspire and help other regions and industries. That’s why we publish the results and methodologies of what we find, too – so if another wine region wants to visit Champagne and understand how we are adapting to climate change, we will guide you through it, because the more regions do this, the better it is for us all.

What are some of the common misconceptions about champagne?

Our society has developed strict codes and rules about how to enjoy champagne – such as the best glasses to food pairings. My advice would be to ignore the rules and enjoy the experience of your champagne. My wife and I have two crystal cups from the 1920s and it’s become our tradition to drink from these on Valentine’s Day, while glassmaker Riedel is campaigning against traditional champagne flutes. Champagne is also a more versatile wine than many think. It goes as well with caviar and oysters as it does with a Chinese meal or fish and chips. Recently, I’ve been pairing champagne with camembert, and it’s heaven. The truth is, the experience and joy you get from a pairing is infinitely more important than rules. That’s what keeps you in love with champagne: there’s an infinity of expressions, and you can always find little surprises. visitlachampagne.travel

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Right: Visitors to Champagne can visit UNESCO cellars and ancient caves © Mumm

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POP THE CORK Tempus discovers Champagne’s most surprising houses…

DUVAL-LEROY The last major independent and family-owned champagne house, Duval-Leroy was created in 1859. Famed for its pioneering spirit and Chardonnay-dominant flavours, the house’s exceptional blends were winning major prizes by 1888 – including first place at the Universal Exhibition in Barcelona – and in 1911 Raymond Duval-Leroy became the first producer to create a Premier Cru champagne.

Since that time, sustainability of terroir has been at the forefront of the marque’s work. In 2009 Duval-Leroy became the first winery worldwide to combine solar panel installation, rainwater recycling, and sound insulation through vegetationcovered walls. It also presented the ‘open concept’ closure system as an alternative to cork. It was the first house to produce a certified organic brut champagne – the Brut Bio – and next year will mark the 110th anniversary of its signature cuvée Fleur de Champagne Brut Premier Cru. Carol Duval-Leroy, who in 1991 became the house’s sixth-generation CEO and chairperson, is today considered the most influential woman in Champagne. Serving as the first female president of the Wine Association of the Champagne region from 2006 to 2010, her work promoting champagne internationally has seen her honoured with multiple awards – including the prestigious Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur. Under her guidance, Duval-Leroy has continued to innovate, collaborating with chefs and sommeliers to create bespoke champagnes, and partnering with Michelin-star venues around the world – including the newly-renovated restaurant Seven Park Place, at St James’s Hotel and Club, Mayfair. duval-leroy.com 30

INDULGE CHARLES HEIDSIECK Known as ‘Champagne Charlie’ for his work popularising champagne in the United States, Charles Heidsieck founded his eponymous house in 1851. The man himself lived a life as remarkable as his champagne. His father, Charles-Henri, was a champagne merchant famed for reportedly riding into Russia in 1811 just ahead of Napoleon’s advancing army with several cases of champagne – and his order book – ready to toast a victory.

Having delivered his champagne to the States, Heidsieck was the toast of New York society until the start of the American Civil War. Sneaking into New Orleans to chase a debt, he was arrested by Union General Benjamin F Butler under suspicion of being a Confederate spy, and spent seven months imprisoned at Fort Jackson, Louisiana.

This caused an international incident that reportedly saw Napoleon contact Abraham Lincoln personally in order to campaign for Heidsieck’s release.

Heidsieck purchased the Crayères (right) in 1867 – 8km of chalk cellars dating from the third century and reaching more than 30m below ground – which in 2015 were listed as a UNESCO Heritage Site. The house now produces a wide range of champagnes, including a signature Brut Réserve cuvée that contains 40% reserve wines and is aged an average of 10 years. charlesheidsieck.com

HATT ET SÖNER Founded in 2006 by Kristofer Ruscon, then just 21 years old, Hatt et Söner has revolutionised how HNWs enjoy champagne thanks to its invitation-only personal vintage programme. Playing host to the wine region’s first ever private members’ club, Hatt et Söner offers the exclusive opportunity for oenophiles to take part in the winemaking process to create their own vintage champagne.

Ruscon was inspired into the world of champagne by his grandfather, Joseph.

A beermaker from the Alpine town of Annecy, Joseph spent part of the Nazi occupation of France during the Second World War hiding in a wine cellar with the Jewish people he was sheltering. After this, Joseph vowed to never pass a day of his life without drinking a bottle of wine, and thus his family became well acquainted with the independent Vallois champagne family. When Françios Vallois, feeling mounting pressure from the competitive champagne market, decided to sell up, Ruscon stepped up.

With its closely guarded level of exclusivity, those who want to taste-test the brand’s publicly available vintage will have to head to private members’ club 67 Pall Mall – London’s only Hatt et Söner stockist. hatt-soner.com

PERRIER-JOUËT The most famous love story in Épernay, Perrier-Jouët was founded by husband and wife Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Rose Adélaide Jouët in 1811. It was a natural fit, with Perrier’s family owning vineyards and Jouët the daughter of a Calvados producer. The couple began producing fine champagne and by 1815 they were exporting to Britain, and to the United States in 1837. In 1846 the brand created the first ever ‘Brut’ champagne, to appeal to the drier English palate.

Years later, it was familial love combined with a passion for art that brought the brand’s iconic Belle Epoque cuvée to life. Henri Gallice managed the family business in Épernay while younger brother Octave delved into Paris’ early 20th-century art movement. When the younger’s friend, Art Nouveau pioneer Emile Gallé, designed an emblem for Perrier-Jouët in 1902 it became a symbol of the house for years to come.

Now owned by prestige spirit brand Pernod Ricard, Perrier-Joüet has more than 160 acres of vineyards in the Grand Crus of Cramant and Avize; closer to home, the Perrier-Joüet Champagne Terrace in Harrods (right) is the perfect venue for a romantic tipple.

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Masters of art In these exclusive images, Blancpain shares the secrets behind its exceptional – and singular – Binchōtan technique

Photography: © Blancpain

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Right: Blancpain Métiers d’Art produces bespoke timepieces

ounded in 1735, Blancpain may be the world’s oldest watchmaking brand, but that’s not to say it is stuck in its ways. Inside Blancpain’s picturesque workshop in Le Brassus, Switzerland, is a blend of super-modern machinery and traditional craftsmanship that works in perfect harmony to create some of the finest horological pieces in the world.

Blancpain is renowned for its commitment to sustaining traditional watchmaking while being a force for innovation. Over the last 13 years the manufacture has launched 37 new calibres, from the first Traditional Chinese Calendar to the ground-breaking Tourbillon Carrousel. While a Blancpain watch may be measured by its technical merit and reliability, it may also be evaluated by its finishing and beauty. Unique and highlypersonalised creations all take shape under the roof of Blancpain’s famed workshops in Le Brassus, a major centre for watchmaking’s most artistic crafts, as each timepiece is transformed into a unique work of art.

The introduction of unique Binchōtan dials is another milestone technique, inspired by Japanese tradition but never seen in watchmaking until now. Binchōtan is a specialist charcoal made using traditional methods dating back over 400 years.

Ubamegashi oak from the historic Kii province of Japan (now Wakayama Prefecture) is placed in a clay oven at temperatures from 1,000˚C to 1,300˚C. A swift firing process, followed by rapid cooling, reduces the tree’s bark to ashes, before yielding » a smooth surface that is thought to be as tough as steel.

This 17th century technique was renowned for its purifying properties but Binchōtan, known as ‘white charcoal’ due to its bright glow when heated, was rarely used for ornamental purposes. Instead,

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it was used in Japanese cooking, or for making musical instruments and wind chimes thanks to the metallic sound it made when struck.

In Blancpain’s Métiers d’Art studio, artisans use the Binchōtan’s remarkable density for the creation of new, unique dials. They first wash the charcoal logs before cutting them into fine discs. Several layers of resin – made from the sap of the Asian lacquer tree – are added to the surface to protect the material from ageing. They are then polished by hand, to heighten the effect of the Binchōtan’s natural streaks and intensity of colour, before being meticulously decorated with pigmented red and gold lacquer, and additional carved elements to achieve one-of-a-kind creations. The dial is then fitted with a gold applique, hand-engraved and patinated using Shakudō colouring techniques.

“Métiers d’Art timepieces have the particularity to be unique,” says Blancpain president and CEO, Marc A. Hayek. “Whether for an engraved model or an enamel-painted dial, their aesthetic appeal creates emotions. More than watches, they are true pieces of art and meet the needs of our clients’ customization requests.”

Such was the case in 2018’s Métiers d’Arts collection honouring the great beauties of Ancient China, which comprised four watches with scenes depicted in stunning form using techniques » including champlevé enamel, engraving, shakudō, marquetry and enamel painting.

As well as creating unique dials, Binchōtan can also be used to create decorative inlays, which are applied to previously engraved dials in association

Right: Artisans use Binchōtan’s remarkable density to create unique dials Below: Blancpain Villeret Métiers d’Art Binchõtan

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with Grand Feu enameling or any other decorative techniques.

The Villeret Métiers d’Art Binchōtan watch, first launched in 2018, comes in a 42mm red gold double stepped case housing the 13R3A caliber, visible through the sapphire crystal case back and ensuring an eight-day power reserve displayed on the bridge side.

“We often say that innovation is our tradition, meaning that we are committed to inventing and expanding the boundaries of watchmaking,” said Hayek.

“This doesn’t apply for movements only, but also for the aesthetic of our watches.

Blancpain’s timepieces are decorated using files, burnishers, buffs and stones.

We are trying to put forward techniques that have rarely been seen in the world of watchmaking.”

Blancpain.com

This page: Blancpain artisans use Grand Feu champlevé enamel (below)to represent four great Chinese beauties (left)

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Golden memories Can Malaysia’s array of contemporary luxury hotels live up to perfect precedent set by the nation’s historic hospitality?

Words: Georgia Peck

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alaysia is a place I have always held close to my heart; the fond memories I have of a month spent in the country many moons ago are ones I have romanticised endlessly, that have shaped my life significantly – and for the better. It is a special place with the ability to restore and renew mind, body and soul.

Until now, I have resisted venturing back, worried the reality might pale compared to my golden-hued memories. Will Malaysia have changed beyond my recognition? Thankfully, I chose to take the leap of faith and return to this magical place, this time flying with Malaysia Airlines to Kuala Lumpur to explore the country with YTL Hotels – which holds in its portfolio some of the world’s most esteemed resorts and hotels – and recreate some of my original, cherished visit.

Malaysia is home to some of the planet’s most beautiful coastal destinations, complex jungles, dynamic cities and hospitable people. For me, it is the exotic Malay cuisine and luxury spas that stand out as some of the finest in the world and seemingly – shockingly – some of the most under-celebrated of all Asia.

Thanks to its vast coastlines and tropical climate, an abundance of fresh seafood, coconuts, flowers and spices all thrive here, providing the base to the most sublime, vibrant feasts for the senses – namely curries and exotic spa treatments – all bursting with cultural heritage born from the bountiful land and sea.

Malaysian spas are otherworldly, unlike anything imaginable in even the best five-star UK establishments, and YTL puts this same attention to detail into each of its treatments, suites and every plate of food. It’s a fully immersive experience from start to finish, for every aspect of your being.

Making my way across Malaysia, YTL’s three magnificent properties provided contrast in all aspects but one: their traditional Malay hospitality. With this foundation, the same care and conviviality was a balm to the soul whether exploring the city or coast, proving hospitality a gentle Malay art form.

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TRAVEL TANJONG JARA RESORT This unmistakably Malay resort, located on the East Coast Peninsula of Malaysia, is designed to reflect the elegance of the region’s 17th-century palaces. It sits on a crescent-shaped bay of golden sand, coconut palms flickering shade across south-facing sun loungers as the sea breeze rolls in; it also, for the more adventurous hiker, backs on to a heady jungle ripe for exploration.

Tanjong Jara Resort is steeped in local heritage, which inspire a host of enriching hotel experiences. ‘Secrets of a Malay Kitchen’ offers guests the chance to visit the local morning food market, shopping for fresh products and spices before heading back to cook with a native culinary master from the resort’s restaurant, Nelayan. Similarly, Kampong Sucimurni Lifestyle sessions provide music, local delicacies and entertainment every Saturday, encouraging well-being among the resort’s guests.

No stay would be complete without a starlight dining experience on the beach; our private chef whips up a meal of sand-roasted fish, ‘Bakar Ikan Bawah Pasir’. The culinary style of Terengganu Fishermen involves wrapping fresh fish in banana leaves before burying it in sand and coconut husks over a charcoal fire. While waiting for dinner, the resort’s resident historian regales us with stories by candlelight, or we indulge in a fresh flower bath in the stunning beachside spa.

The beach is also celebrating a record year of wild turtle numbers increasing – guests can take part in helping to release baby turtles back into the sea from the resort’s sanctuary. This secluded, soothing coastal gem invigorates and rejuvenates body and spirit, leaving a delicious taste on the tongue and scent on your skin. » tanjongjararesort.com

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THE RITZ-CARLTON KUALA LUMPUR Timeless and opulent, lavish yet welcoming.

Somehow The Ritz-Carlton nails this unlikely combination, creating a cool marble haven in the bustling capital of Kuala Lumpur. And with bedroom suites to rival a Belgravia apartment, complete with personal butler, the Ritz-Carlton certainly puts quite the spring in your step.

Dinner in The Library is a must: we surround ourselves with a stunning array of books and elegant interior design to enjoy fine dining creations by Chef Wai (below right) – who interprets traditional Malay classics into world-class haute cuisine in collaboration with Austrian Michelin-starred chef Johann Lafer.

However, for me, the real culinary highlights lay in Kuala Lumpur itself. We visit Lot 10 Hutong, a gourmet destination that pays tribute to good food and local delicacies. Each of the 33 eateries is distinguishable for a different all-time favourite signature dish, offering the chance to taste the best dim sum, durian, beef noodles, roast duck and much more all in one place.

Layer, in the hotel bar, we are offered an enviable selection of wines, cognacs and cocktails before a cheeky cigar could be enjoyed in the Smoke Room.

On my final day, I visit the hotel Spa Village for a signature Campur Campur treatment, this luxurious massage combine the best techniques from Malay and Thai styles, using tone, touch and aromatherapy. The scent of lemongrass and pandan lingers in the treatment room and on my fully-pampered skin alike.

The Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur is an urban sanctuary in a concrete jungle, bringing elegance and serenity to your city break. ritzcarlton.com

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TRAVEL

THE MAJESTIC MALACCA Saving the best ‘til last, no words can describe the sheer beauty of The Majestic Malacca. I admit to releasing an involuntary exclamation of delight as I step across the veranda into the Colonial style entryway – this is interior design heaven!

There’s a sense of joyous exuberance in this historic building. Situated on its namesake river – once bejewelled with wooden vessels, sails billowing in the wind – the hotel began its life in 1929 as the private mansion of tycoon Leong Long Man and boasts impressive heritage architecture.

Leong Long Man decked out the 1920s Straits Settlement mansion with sumptuous décor, including imported Victorian porcelain tiles, stained glass windows, finely crafted furniture, teakwood fittings and ornate lighting. The mansion went through various ups and downs over the decades, changing ownership and lacking care, before public outcry inspired YTL to renovate the property with no expense spared.

It finally reopened in 2008.

The hotel is a prominent landmark of the 600-year old coastal port of Malacca and offers complimentary guided walks to its guests – which prove fascinating, telling the local legacy of the Malay Sultanate, Chinese, Indian, Portuguese, Dutch and British communities.

Again, it is at the local markets where regional cuisine comes most into its own, and the hotel\s chef, naturally, is available for a tour. Once in town, it’s only natural to learn more about local Kristang culture with a stop for lunch at The Mansion. Don’t be deceived by the casual dining vibes: this restaurant offers truly excellent fare.

For a fair comparison, it would be remiss not to visit Malacca’s Spa Village. This is the world’s first therapeutic venue to base its treatments on the healing traditions of the Baba-Nyonya, or Peranakan, culture, which shares a unique combination of Chinese and Malay influence.

From stunning historic architecture to a vibrant contrast of cultures, Malacca is the perfect place to end my return to Malaysia, which has proven to be even more inspiring than my long-cherished memories. majesticmalacca.com

Visit YTLhotels.com Direct flights available from London Heathrow to Kuala Lumpur via malaysiaairlines.com 41

Shooting stars Tempus takes an exclusive look through the lens of the world’s most fascinating travel photographers Words: Ross Forbes

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hotographer Chris Coe founded the Travel Photographer of the Year Awards in 2003, bringing together professionals and amateurs from around the world in a celebration of life through the lens. Each year, winning portfolios are exhibited around the world (this year’s will be debuted at London’s Coal Drops Yard from 7 April before heading to Sharjah, Dubai) and visited by more than 1.5m people. Winners were selected by a panel of expert judges, including US President Barack Obama’s former official photographer, Lawrence Jackson, Condé Nast’s Caroline Metcalfe and twotime Pulitzer Prize-winning photographer Essdras M Suarez, while the awards’ big-name sponsors include the Royal Photographic Society (whose patron is the Duchess of Cambridge) and Fujifilm. The latter hosted a prizegiving ceremony at its House of Photography in Covent Garden in January. Here, these outstanding photographers take Tempus around the world for a closer look through the lens...

TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR | KATY GOMEZ CATALINA, SPAIN An amateur photographer whose day job is as a public health official, Katy Gomez Catalina is a passionate travel photographer who has visited more than 60 countries. In this striking image, shot in Xinjiang, China, she captures the importance of pottery-making to ethnic Uighur culture.

Gomez Catalina: “My subjects are varied but travel photography is a common link in all my work. The camera has become an inseparable companion, I cannot see the world if it is not through the eyes of a camera.” » 42

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YOUNG TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR | INDIGO LARMOUR At just 11 years old, Indigo Larmour already has a unique worldview. The Irish budding photographer was born in Abu Dhabi and for the past two years has lived in India.

This image, taken in Kolkata, illustrates how global the world has become – with newspapers in English, Hindi, Bengali and even Chinese for sale.

Larmour: “Being a child means I often view everyday activities from a different perspective. I have loved living in India because there’s always something interesting happening and the colours are so beautiful.”

ART OF TRAVEL PORTFOLIO | PAUL SANSOME A professional fine art and travel photographer based in England and Vietnam, Sansome’s artistic photography is released in strictly limited editions.

A skilled teacher, Sansome has led photography holidays for more than 15 years, taking students to the likes of Italy, Morroco and India. While much of his portfolio plays with colour and exposures, this image of Acqua Alta, Venice, highlights the devasting impact of flooding in the region, and is all the more impactful for its muted colour palette.

Sansome: "Here the challenge is to portray the emotion of the subject or to tell a story. One common thread through these genres is that the timing of the shot is critical – a fleeting moment of light in the landscape, a moment of animal behaviour or the flash of emotion on a person’s face."

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DESIGN ENDANGERED PLANET PORTFOLIO | ALAIN SCHROEDER Award-winning Belgian photojournalist Alain Schroeder founded photo agency Reporters in 1989, published several books and contributed to the likes of National Geographic, Geo and Paris Match.

This image, shot in Sibolangit, SOCP Quarantine Centre in Northern Sumatra, depicts three-month-old orangutan Brenda. The vulnerable creature is being treated for a broken arm, having been confiscated from a villager in Aceh.

Schroeder: “I feel instinctively where I should place myself to get the best pictures. Photography is not made by the camera but rather a little bit by your eyes and mostly by your brain.”

PEOPLE & CULTURES PORTFOLIO | TREVOR COLE Trevor Cole is originally from Derry, but has lived most of his life between England, Singapore, Togo, Italy, Ethiopia and Brazil. His winning portfolio, shot in South Sudan, depicts a young Mundari cattle farmer adorning himself with ash – used daily on human and cattle alike to protect against insect bites.

Cole: “My photography focuses predominantly on culture and landscapes; images which reflect a spatial and temporal journey through life and which try to convey a need to live in a more sustainable world.” » 45

THRILLS & ADVENTURES | BRIAN CLOPP A talented photographer as well as film director and producer – including of the Golden Globe-nominated First They Killed my Father (directed by Angelina Jolie) – Brian Clopp’s portrait photography has seen him snap former president Jimmy Carter, civil rights activist Jesse Jackson and actor James Earl Jones. He captured these images of fighting stallions in Utah.

Clopp: “To get these shots, I lived among the wild Onaqui herd for a week, camping out in a dusty desert environment. Here, wild stallions battle dramatically for hierarchy, sending young foals scattering from the melee.”

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ONE SHOT: DUSK TO DAWN | WILL BURRARD-LUCAS Will Burrard-Lucas is a wildlife photographer from the UK, whose mission is to get as close as possible to his subjects. To capture more dangerous and elusive beasts, he created a remotecontrol camera buggy in 2009 – which he christened ‘BeetleCam’ – as well as camera sensors developed to detect secretive and nocturnal animals, such as this majestic black rhino shot in Kenya.

He founded Camtraptions Ltd to share his creations with fellow photographers, and in 2019 released a book documenting the last of Africa’s elephants with tusks, called Lands of Giants, in support of the Tsavo Trust.

Burrard-Lucas: “This black rhino was photographed with a Camtraptions camera trap at night. This is a single long exposure photograph, required to expose the stars, while a flash at the start of the exposure illuminated the rhino.” » 47

ONE SHOT: OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS | IGNACIO PALACIOS A third-generation photographer, Spaniard Ignacio Palacios has won more than 100 photography prizes during his 22-year career, and few can rival his skill and passion for the art. Now based in Australia, his distinct signature style provides new perspectives on places around the world.

This unique take on Brazil’s Lençóis Maranhenses National Park – taken from a light plane with its doors removed – shows a lonely tree surviving the elements among the sand dunes.

Palacios: “I want to raise awareness about the environment and human right issues in some of the countries I have visited.

It is my hope that people realise that we have a beautiful world and we should protect it.”

ONE SHOT: STREETLIFE | ROBIN YONG Robin Yong is a multi-award-winning travel and commercial photographer, trained by the likes of Jim Zuckerman and Greg Gorman. Best known for his ‘Travel Portraits’ of the Omo Valley tribes in Ethiopia, Venetian Masked models in Venice, Bokator boxers of Cambodia and the Maikos of Kyoto, Yong generally depends on natural lighting to create his cinematic shots. His winning shot, a street scene in Havana, Cuba, also won the People’s Choice award by online voters.

Yong: “I enjoy travelling to exotic destinations to befriend and photograph the locals. For most of my works, I do not use flash, reflectors or artificial lighting, depending solely on natural lighting. For me, every photo must look like a movie poster.”

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TAPSA | KIRAN RIDLEY The Timothy Allen Photography Scholarship Award (TAPSA), presented for documentary photography, was won

by Dorset-born, Paris-based Kiran Ridley.

The social-political photographer has an eye for newsworthy situations, and is passionate about capturing the human dynamic in situations throughout the world. His work has been published around the world, including in The Times, the Los Angeles Times, The Washington Post, The Wall Street Journal, Le Figaro, Forbes and Die Welt. His winning portfolio captures clashes betweeen police and protesters at pro-democracy demonstrations in Hong Kong, earlier this year (below).

Ridley: “I enjoy working under varied and sometimes difficult conditions and particularly enjoy ‘fly on the wall’ photography, merging myself into the environment.” tpoty.com

WINNERS OF THE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR AWARDS 2019

Travel Photographer of the Year Katy Gomez Catalina, Spain

Thrills & Adventures portfolio Brian Clopp, USA

Young Travel Photographer of the Year Indigo Lamour, Ireland (11)

One Shot: Dusk to Dawn Will Burrard-Lucas, UK and Sumit Dua, USA/UK

Young Travel Photographer of the Year (15-18) Ankit Kumar, India (16) Young Travel Photographer of the Year (14 and under) Daniel Kurian, India/Australia (13) Art of Travel portfolio Paul Sansome, UK Endangered Planet portfolio Alain Schroeder, Belgium People & Cultures portfolio Trevor Cole, Ireland

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One Shot: Oceans, Seas, Rivers, Lakes Ignacio Palacios, Australia/Spain One Shot: Street Life Robin Yong, Malaysia Smart Shot: iTravelled (taken on smart phone or tablet) Benjamin Shaul, USA Documentaries: The Timothy Allen Photography Scholarship Award (TAPSA) Kiran Ridley, UK

Paw prints in the sand A new luxury eco-lodge in South Luangwa shines a light on the sustainability and conservation efforts making a difference in this wildlife-rich pocket of Zambia Words: Lauren Jade Hill

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t’s late afternoon and the sun is starting to fade. My guide Andrew revs the engine of our four-wheel drive, coaxing the wheels out of the deep sand of a riverbed that in October, the hottest time of the year, is completely devoid of water. The paw prints of a lion show us who trod the same path earlier.

Once we’re across, we’re back on the sunbaked floodplains. A lion sleeps with one eye open at the tree-shaded top of the riverbank we’ve just passed, while a zebra grazes on the yellow grass.

I’m in South Luangwa, a 9,059 sq km national park in the east of Zambia. This is the southernmost of three national parks around the Luangwa River. A steep escarpment borders the west and the mighty river runs along the eastern side. The land between is characterised by an ever-changing oxbow lagoon system. These vitalising waterways flow into a landscape of woodland, sandy floodplain, riverine forest and grassland where giant baobab and sausage trees pepper the land.

This is an environment where both fauna and flora flourish. Even after the long summer months, waterholes ensure wildlife thrives and lush green leaves grow atop the mahogany forest’s trees. Elephants eat mangoes from verdant treetops and game congregates by water where carmine bee-eaters appear as flashes of red and green. We’d passed elephants huddled beneath the trees earlier that day, with hooded vultures perched overhead and monkeys sitting at the water’s edge, a safe distance from the pride of lions tormenting passing impala.

Sightings like this are a frequent occurrence.

As well as having unique species like the Crawshay’s zebra and Thornicroft’s giraffe, South Luangwa is said to have one of the greatest wildlife concentrations in Africa.

Herds of buffalo gather by the river, huge pods of hippos inhabit the deepest bodies of water and antelope bound across the plains.

If you’re lucky you’ll see predators at play, such as the leopards sometimes found hiding in the branches of a sausage tree, waiting for impala to come and eat the maroon flowers that have dropped to the ground below. This unique behaviour is what makes safari here so rewarding.

But if there’s one thing you can be sure of, it’s that the animal kingdom never fails to surprise. “Never and always are two words that don’t exist in the bush,” says Andrew, who’s known this wilderness since he was a child. “You can never say never, and you can never say always. There’s always an exception to the rule – animals don’t read the same books we do.”

As the sun lowers, the landscape turns a light green dusted with gold, and when night falls we begin the drive back to the camp, our red headlights picking up the outline of porcupines, civets and a hippo which we silently follow as it waddles down the track.

We stop in a clearing and turn the lights off to listen to the sounds around us and look up at a million stars above.

Being out at this time tunes you into the density of wildlife inhabiting the bush.

Knowing the importance of conserving this environment, lodges and camps in and around the national park go to great efforts to protect the resident wildlife. » 50

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© Billy Burris Hill 51

ANIMAL INSTINCTS Conservation South Luangwa focuses on antipoaching and wildlife rescue; Zambia Carnivore Project monitors the numbers, movement and behaviour of lions, leopards, hyenas and wild dogs; and Chipembele Wildlife Trust provides environmental education to local schools.

Zambia’s newest luxury tented camp, Puku Ridge, is the latest lodge to make a contribution to these initiatives while also endeavouring to introduce new efforts. The lodge lies within a secluded area of the national park. Almost entirely hidden from view, this property places you at a vantage point within the trees, overlooking a wildlife-rich plain and thriving waterhole.

Previously a Sanctuary Retreats property, the lodge – designed by prominent resot development firm Luxury Frontiers – has been entirely rebuilt by new owners Chichele Safaris in partnership with Zambia’s long-running safari specialist, Chiawa Safaris. Together, they have transformed the lodge to ensure it has minimal impact on the surroundings while providing a luxury safari experience.

The entire camp is now suspended above ground, it operates on hydropower, and bamboo composite replaces timber decking. Sections of the camp are built around the trees and materials blend into the surrounding wilderness.

Whatever footprint the lodge then has is offset

by Biocarbon Partners, certifying the camp and all its activities as carbon neutral.

It’s as we’re sitting on the deck at Puku Ridge that the owner of Chiawa Safaris, Grant Cumings, explains how Chiawa plans to make a difference here: “We’re bringing in ideas that haven’t been thought of until now,” he says. “We’re promoting carbon neutrality and we’re using red headlights for night drives, which is what we’ve been doing in the Lower Zambezi for years – Night drives are a privilege,” he explains. “Using red headlights ensures that you’re not disrupting the night activity of predators.” For the next move, Cumings is working towards introducing electric safari vehicles. “The less impact we have, the better the experience is for guests.”

The same philosophy can be seen at Puku Ridge’s sister camps, Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro, in the Lower Zambezi, which is where Chiawa Safaris began its sustainable endeavours.

For a start, Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro were Africa’s very first certified carbon-neutral camps.

“When we first did this, everyone else followed,” he explains. “Then the Lower Zambezi became the first certified carbon neutral national park.”

Lower Zambezi National Park sits on the border of Zimbabwe, with an escarpment running along the northern side, riverine forest bordering the Zambezi channels, and floodplain and mopane forest in-between. You can reach Chiawa’s riverside camps by travelling into the national park by river. Elephants come right up to the open-sided lodges here and you only have to be out a short time to see the abundant wildlife on game drives. »

Sustainability: Take in the wildlife at Puku Ridge (right) before relaxing in the sustainable lodge’s facilities ( far right). Images © Scott Ramsay 52

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Meet the locals: Relax in your Chiawa Safari Safari Suite (bottom right) or mingle with local wildlife at the open-air bar (below and right)

The Lower Zambezi safari experience is particularly diverse. As well as offering game drives and walking safaris, these camps give you the chance to get out on the water. You can kayak along the Zambezi’s narrow channels and take a river cruise as elephants cross with their young.

In collaboration with other safari operators in the area, Chiawa Safaris helped form Conservation Lower Zambezi. This organisation facilitates all conservation activity in the region, from aerial patrols and a Detection and Tracking Dog Unit to environmental education for local children and support for the Human-Wildlife Conflict initiative.

Now that Chiawa Safaris is endeavouring to make a similar impact in South Luangwa, they’re helping to further ensure the prosperity

THE ANIMAL KINGDOM NEVER FAILS TO SURPRISE

of Zambia’s wilderness. Travelling between Chiawa Safaris’ camps enables you to experience this with the lightest footprint possible.

Travelling to Zambia’s national parks often means stopping over in Lusaka. Make the most of your time here with a stay at Latitude 15°, a luxury boutique hotel, co-working space and members’ club rolled into one, marrying a drive for sustainability with a focus on design and art.

Artwork is displayed in modern interiors that could just as easily house a contemporary art gallery, with indoor-outdoor dining and gardenenclosed pools. You can unwind on the terrace or with a treatment in the spa and draw out your evening in the restaurant and cocktail bar. theluxurysafaricompany.com 15.thelatitudehotels.com 54

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The need for speed Ian Warhurst shares how the Bloodhound LSR’s quest to break the land speed record could inspire a new generation of engineers Words: Rory FH Smith

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any people have unhealthy obsessions. While some are partial to their favourite tipple, others prefer to smoke, spend or do all of the above. But for Yorkshire-based businessman Ian Warhurst, his obsession is machines, especially ones capable of record-breaking speeds. After a successful career in automotive engineering, on the brink of retirement, he found himself at the heart of the Bloodhound Land Speed Record project – a quest for the impossible that has evolved into a crusade for social and environmental change.

Born in 1969, Warhurst is a self-confessed engineering nut. Having grown up tinkering with engines in his father’s garage, it didn’t take long for him to start his own business in speed, in the shape of a small engineering firm specialising in making turbochargers.

“I just like making things work,” declares Warhurst. By the end of the last decade, the company had grown rapidly and was helping machines move faster and more efficiently from China to Chamonix and everywhere in between.

At this point, most level-headed 40-somethings would hand over the reins, hang up the suit and opt for a quiet retirement. But Warhurst had other ideas. “I was due to retire at 49,” chuckles the Yorkshireman. “I was in the process of selling

my business when I received a message from my son, who’d seen the Bloodhound Land Speed Record car was going to auction.”

First formed in 2008, the Bloodhound project is a rocket-powered titanium, aluminium and carbon fibre-clothed shrine to speed. Started by land speed record veteran Richard Noble, the project was the continuation of both Noble’s 1983 record-breaking Thrust2 car, which was only topped by Noble’s ThrustSSC project driven by fighter pilot Andy Green in 1997. Despite all that, the Bloodhound car was developed with even higher speeds in mind.

“He’s a land speed racing nutter!” laughs Warhurst. “But he’s been the one that’s made world record history – he’s a great guy.”

Despite Noble’s vision, the Bloodhound project ran out of steam shortly after completing its shakedown test at Newquay airport, where it topped 200mph trouble-free.

“The problem was that they needed a lot more money to get it to the desert to complete the next high-speed tests,” explains Warhurst. “I knew how good Bloodhound was at inspiring kids to get into engineering – I remember thinking it was such a shame it went into administration.”

For a man on the cusp of a comfortable retirement, Warhurst suddenly found himself »

© Charlie Sperring 57

at the heart of a ballistic living and breathing land speed record attempt. “I Googled Richard Noble’s name, found an email address for him and sent him a message asking if I could help,” he explains. “He came back straight away and said it was the end of the road for the project and warned the administrators were coming to break it all up.”

With no more funding or sponsors, one of the most advanced machines on the planet – a shining testament to mankind’s obsession with speed – had ground to a halt and was being prepared for the scrapyard. “I thought it would be such a shame if the project got broken up, so I thought I’d buy it and hold it to keep it all together and then hand it back… I had no intention of getting involved at the time.”

Running against the clock, Warhurst called the administrators and persuaded them to stall the angle grinder for a couple of days while he raced down to Bristol to see what he’d bought. “I had no idea what I was going to do with it, I just knew I had to stop them cutting it up into bits!”

Within a week, Warhurst had funded it, bought the assets and the intellectual property and tidied up the contracts. By Friday of the same week, he was the new owner of a 13m, fivetonne land speed record car.

ROCKET MAN “Everyone asks what I paid for it, which is a silly question because the minute I signed the paper, I was instantly committed to twice that to just keep hold of it,” he says. From there, the businessman-turned-world record hopeful looked to the original team and its founder for guidance. “Most of the team had been disbanded, so Richard Noble called me up and said, ‘Ian, you’re the sort of person needed to run this project – why don’t you give it a go?’”

With a car capable of topping 700mph in his possession, there was only one thing for it. “I remember thinking, ‘Right, let’s go and break a world record’.”

He got to work reassembling a team that includes former fighter pilot and land-speed record veteran Andy Green as his driver of choice. “He’d been waiting to drive the car for 10 years. He’s more than just a driver: he’s a very intelligent chap and has a great understanding of the dynamics of the car.”

Now with the 763mph record in his sights, Bloodhound was ready to head to the desert for high-speed testing. When the project was first dreamt up, Hakskeenpan salt flat in the Kalahari Desert had been selected as the testing ground, with its wide-open spaces and flat surface comfortably accommodating the 20km by 1km wide strip needed to run the car to over 600mph. Only it wasn’t as simple as just turning up with a five-tonne rocketcar and turning the key. When the project first confirmed it would run the car on the dry lakebed, it struck a deal with the local government to painstakingly clear every stone from the test strip by hand.

Between 2008 and 2015, more than 300 people cleared 16,000 tonnes of stones to clear the way for the car. “You just can’t not turn up after all that, can you?”

When Warhurst and his team finally turned up with the car, they were greeted with an » 58

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Action stations: Engineers ready the Bloodhound for speed testing

THE RELEVANCE OF BLOODHOUND HAS ALWAYS BEEN ABOUT INSPIRING

THE NEXT GENERATION

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Speed tests: The Bloodhound team complete tests on the Hakskeenpan salt flats. © Charlie Sperring

emotional response. “The locals had tears in their eyes – they had spent years toiling to get the stones cleared that to see the car arrive was a really big thing for them – to see it run in the desert made me so proud of the team.”

So, in November 2019, the Bloodhound successfully proved itself the fourth fastest vehicle in the world as it touched 628mph – a pitstop closer to the final goal.

GREEN MACHINE Bloodhound is about far more than a hellbent obsession with speed. In late January, the Bloodhound team confirmed its goal to make the car a zero-emissions vehicle when it attempts to reach over 800mph in Q3 2021.

“The truth is, it really does inspire kids to get into engineering,” insists Warhurst. “The relevance of Bloodhound has always been about inspiring the next generation. There’s no doubt about climate change – it’s clearly happening – so we have to solve those problems and for that, we need clever minds and clever scientist to come up with some very clever ideas.” Put simply, Warhurst is on a crusade as well as a campaign to set the land speed record – a combined mission to inspire the next generation while going faster than any person on the planet.

“The issue is that fewer people are getting into engineering and science – it’s not seen to be a sexy subject. Bloodhound makes it sexy. It’s not just a fast car trying to go fast, it’s a massive engineering jigsaw puzzle.”

With high-speed testing complete, all that remains is the final hurdle itself – making history as the fastest car on the planet. “We need to secure sponsorship to give us the next bit of funding to take us to the record. There is a chance that if we don’t get any sponsors, we won’t go any further,” warns Warhurst.

And so, what started as a passing interest in land speed records for the Yorkshireman has rapidly developed into a high-profile campaign to demonstrate mankind’s unique ability to find solutions to impossible problems. When the record of 763.035mph was set in 1997, few believed it would be possible to top. But Warhurst is one of those believers – a pioneer of speed determined to make a positive change in society.

From the brink of retirement to the heady heights of world record history, Warhurst’s new adventure has taken him around the world in search of speed. With all eyes and efforts now focused on smashing the record, the only question remaining is what speed would Warhurst finally be content with? “As long as those three figures start with an eight, I’ll be happy.” bloodhoundlsr.com 60

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Take it slow Never mind FOMO, try SLO-MO. Oli Broom, founder of travel company The Slow Cyclist, talks about the joy of taking your time on holiday Words: Lysanne Currie

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These days, it’s not about how stylish your business card is, but how low your carbon footprint can go.

Slow travel is a mindset. It understands the journey is just as valuable as the destination. Trains, especially overnight journeys, offer a more authentic way of travelling, with the scenery changing outside the window. And the market has responded accordingly. While rail investments have picked up across Europe (Austrian Federal Railways is spending £166m to renovate its sleeper cars, for example) luxury travel companies are also cashing in. “There’s no need to go anywhere near an airport,” founder of luxury train travel company Planet Rail Guy Saunders announced in 2018.

Meanwhile, booking.com reported 64% of its travellers were interested in historic luxury train journeys, while 62% wanted a trip in which the transportation was part of the experience.

All of this chimes with The Slow Cyclist’s ethos. Tuscanybound pedallers with a taste for the good things in life are especially well-catered for: “sumptuous home-cooked food in a land brimming with winemaking customs” is on offer here. Says Broom, “These discerning adventurous travellers want to travel like they did when they were younger. They have the money to do it, but they haven’t really got the time to organise it or the knowledge, so they come to people like us.”

And Broom and co deliver in spades: the perfect combination of comfort and authenticity.

Breaks with The Slow Cyclist are mostly five days and five nights, and Transylvanian excursions are especially popular.

Broom describes the country as a “pedalling and walking paradise”, with journeys involving crossing remote meadows and high pastures, weaving along cart tracks and through ancient forests to a beautifully appointed guest house. In Zagori, north-west Greece, cyclists can expect “smooth and deserted roads, crystal-clear rivers, ancient mule tracks, remote monasteries, wonderful food and the slow pace of life adopted by the few locals who call it home, make it a cycling and walking dream”. Meanwhile, those who sign up for the Rwandan trip are rewarded with lush green landscapes, freshwater lakes and even smoking volcanoes. “Every trip is different; most of our groups are private groups, so we just react to the way they feel, each day, each morning and we are able to tailor to them.”

“It will be interesting to see what happens in 2020,” says Broom, “whether we get more interest from younger groups, wanting to go on adventures.” It looks likely: given the direction the wind is blowing, it feels like the stars have definitely aligned in his favour.

ne day in October 2009 Oli Broom did something many professionals only daydream about. He suddenly quit his job to cycle from London to Australia in order to watch the Ashes. Suddenly? Well, sort of. He’d spent a year mentally preparing and researching, “and my mind was very much made up by the time I left. But I didn’t train or anything, I don’t think there’s any point in training for a bike ride that long”.

He’d always wanted to travel a long way overland. And travel is in his blood: in 1972, his dad drove to Cape Town and didn’t come back for five years. “It was the proper hippy trail; he was always trying to embarrass me with his long ginger beard and long ginger hair.”

It took Broom 412 days to get to Oz – “The idea of travelling slowly and watching places change under my wheels was a really important experience for me” – and he enjoyed the peace and quiet of cycling under his own steam. His book Cycling to the Ashes: A Cricketing Odyssey from London to Brisbane was published in 2013, while he was living and working in Rwanda leading a cricket-based charity.

On return to the UK he set up The Slow Cyclist, designed to allow others to experience the beauty of the world by bicycle.

“The idea was to take people to go and see these exciting places in the world but to do so in relative comfort,” he says.

The Slow Cyclist gets much of its advance bookings from HNW Generation X and Baby Boomers: “A lot of them would have been very adventurous travellers, but now they want a nice firm mattress, comfy pillows, good food, good wine.” As one glowing reference on his website says, “It goes without saying we never expected such comfortable beds, hot water, delicious food and all the flowing wine you provided.”

Not bad for such a small outfit: “four of us in the office, with two full-time hosts and local guides”. Word of mouth and some “very efficient PR” have kept it afloat since its first trip to Transylvania in 2015. “I’m surprised how quickly it was set up on such a small budget. It’s a really good business for cash flow.”

The Slow Cyclist has tapped into a prevailing trend, one that looks set to really take off in 2020. Call it the Greta Thunberg effect, and the urgent conversation around climate change; call it the backlash against package holidays; call it the Millennial generation’s demand for transparency, responsible tourism and sustainability. But for the eco-conscious wealthy, slow travelling is very cool right now. People aren’t saying no to travelling – they just want to be more mindful in their choice of transport. And desired destinations too; vacations that resonate on a deeper emotional level. So gone are the quick last-minute trips, and in comes tagskryt (“or train-bragging”) – the hippest Swedish phrase since flygskam (“flight shame”).

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Right: Slow Cyclist founder Oli Broom (left) joins the Calcutta Laughing Club on one of his tailored excursions

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Film forever As the BFI’s Amanda Nevill CBE reflects on her 17-year tenure as CEO of the UK’s most important film organisation, we discover the secrets of building our most celebrated export – cinema Words: Michelle Johnson

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inema is changing. That’s the message from the British Film Institute, the charitable body whose mission is to champion and develop a sizeable domestic industry. 20-years ago, British film paled in comparison to the blockbusting Hollywood machine, but now it’s an impressive £8bn a year industry leading its field from production and infrastructure to crews and talent.

At the 2020 Golden Globes, top awards were scooped up by Brits: director Sir Sam Mendes for his war epic 1917; Rocketman’s Taron Egerton; Fleabag writer/actor Phoebe Waller Bridge; and Olivia Colman, who bagged Best Actress for The Crown just a year after her Oscars triumph with The Favourite. Add to this the boom in production capability, with many studios leaving the LA sunshine to make homes in London sound stages, where largely British crews deliver their expertise.

For Amanda Nevill CBE, who steps down as CEO of the BFI in February, this is the result of a fascinating cinematic journey; the slow building of an infrastructure that highlights the cultural, creative and economic talent of our film industry.

Nevill began her career in national museums, working to establish photography as an artform with the Royal Photographic Society by hosting

debut exhibits by the likes of David Bailey and Linda McCartney (“The UK was years behind the US,” she says), before moving to run the National Museum in Bradford, where she founded the Bradford Film Festival.

“I’ve always loved the arts, but never had the skills myself,” she tells Tempus. We meet at BFI Stephen Street, an apt venue to reflect on the lasting impact of her 17-year tenure. Even here, at the heart of the organisation’s administrative operations, guests find a cool and comfortable venue with screening room, lounge area and café in addition to the offices and meeting rooms hidden from public view. It wasn’t always so.

“When you’re passionate about something but have different abilities, you’re actually very well placed to facilitate space for others to create.”

It’s this approach to creativity that has seen Nevill transform the BFI Southbank into a creative ecosystem for filmmakers, pioneer a streaming service that puts the history of British film at the fore, and actively invest in diverse talent to safeguard the industry’s creative and economic future – a move that has found backing from Star Wars and James Bond producers alike.

Here, Nevill reflects on her greatest achievements, the impact of the BFI, and why British film is one of our most important exports. » 64

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BFI London Film Festival

Amanda, what were your impressions of the BFI when you joined?

I felt like the BFI was getting a really bad rap externally. It was in quite a financial mess, so my goal was to find two or three achievable things to impact that perception. They were quite terrific projects. First, we transformed the National Film Theatre into BFI Southbank, which is now a very cool destination showing exciting films, with great spaces to hang out and network. It’s changed how people interact with us completely. Richard Ayoade, who is a fabulous filmmaker, wrote his debut feature Submarine there.

Secondly, we had to dramatically review how we preserve film, and began a two-year project with the University of Sheffield to protect and expand the National Archive. We house the most significant collection of film and television in the world – it’s truly extraordinary – and it all belongs to the public.

London Film Festival’s Closing gala. It’s a fantastic privilege.

Why is the National Archive such a significant collection?

It is the most significant film and TV archive in the world, with some of the most complete and early historical footage in existence and our job is to acquire and preserve as much as we can. We made an incredible discovery when three milk churns, stuffed full of explosive nitrate film, were found in Burnley. It was made

by Sagar Mitchell and James Kenyon between 1898 to 1907. They would go to factories or football matches and film crowds, then erect an enormous projection tent and charge people a penny to watch themselves on moving film. It would have been phenomenal at the time, and today the historical significance is unmatched, as it’s the earliest moving footage of British people. This is part of our Britain on Film collection, which has over 10,000 titles and has had more than 60 million views on BFI Player.

How important is cinema as a British export?

Film and television is worth £8bn to the UK economy and, year-on-year, our screen industries are the UK’s fastest growing sector.

In the last financial quarter it was singled out as an industry that’s helping the country stay out of recession. Currently, about 40% of our film exports go to the EU, so there are careful negotiations happening to make sure that consumption isn’t damaged by Brexit.

The BFI works shoulder-to-shoulder with the government to understand this economic impact and, since we merged with the UK Film Council in 2011, is able to act as R&D for the industry. We’re able to invest into debut filmmakers and help the industry discover and develop diverse new talent. As Orson Welles said: “A writer needs a pen, an artist needs a brush, but a filmmaker needs an army.”

What was your approach in pioneering the BFI Player as a streaming platform?

I knew we had to get ahead of the curve with a streaming platform, and it’s been a rip-roaring success since launching in 2013. We spend so much energy ensuring Hollywood doesn’t dominate, so I wanted to make British and independent voices the heroes of the piece. We try to get that content on as many platforms as possible – we’re on Amazon Prime, Apple UK and Roku TV in the US – but I also love that notion of curating something very special for our community, just as we do with the BFI London Film Festival.

You mention diversity, which is a crucial talking point this awards season. How do you actively increased diversity in film?

Inclusion and diversity aren’t just nice things to have in the industry – they are absolute economic and creative necessities. If you take gender as an example: it’s insane to think you could live in a world and only have half a population’s stories. Creative people want to congregate in an environment that’s demonstrably culturally and socially diverse.

The BFI has deliberately gone out to address inequality in all of its programmes.

I launched the BFI Film Academy, which I’m completely passionate about, because if we want to have the greatest film industry in the world, then we need to find the best filmmakers and crews. We host 54 local workshops across the UK, open to people between the ages of 1619. The best of those join an intensive residential course at the NFTS and the graduation ceremony is attended by industry professionals.

It’s a deliberately diverse course – we welcome men and women, BAME candidates, LGTBQ+ candidates, people from different social and economic backgrounds – and we track attendees into their future career. »

How important is the BFI London Film Festival as an international showcase?

The Festival is a unique moment in the arts calendar and its growth is a real testament to Britain’s standing. It positions the UK as a global leader, showcasing films from more than 70 countries with a David and Goliath approach: we present new work from small independent films and exciting new filmmaking voices, to the biggest awards contenders. For example, director Martin Scorsese chose to host the world premiere of The Irishman at the 2019

Would you say we’re experience a boom in terms of exporting British talent?

You can absolutely say that, and it’s being sustained year-on-year. Look at the Golden Globe winners: Sam Mendes, Olivia Colman, Phoebe Waller Bridge, Taron Edgerton. 20 years ago, foreign studios would parachute in, make their films and leave, but now studios are making their homes here. Pinewood is expanding for Netflix; Sky is developing Elstree studios; Warner Bros. is investing into Leavesden. We have tax incentives of course, but that wouldn’t work without the very clever infrastructure of talent, crews and studios that we’ve created. Then, of course, the magic dust is that we’re the land of Shakespeare, Dickens, Brontë. We have fantastic theatres, museums, art galleries. It’s a very easy sell.

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Left: Amanda Nevill. Photo © Liz McAulay for Women&Home magazine Below: BFI Southbank

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This feeds into the BFI Future Skills Trainee programme driven by producer Kathleen Kennedy, who wanted to diversify recruits in the Star Wars franchise. Around 27 Film Academy students became paid trainees across a variety of craft and technical roles, and 96% of those were working on another film within three months. Barbara Broccoli has adopted the programme for the Bond films, and other studios are joining as well.

How important is fundraising to the BFI? When I started at the BFI we had absolutely no fundraising capability. I brought Francesca Vinti over from the V&A Museum to become our executive director of fundraising and in the last 17 years we’ve built up this solid, fabulous body of patrons who really nourish the BFI. The Reubens got behind our educational activism, and our hugely popular Reuben Library at BFI Southbank, [Dunkirk director] Christopher Nolan CBE donates handsomely to support the National Archive – as does Martin Scorsese, who is a passionate champion of film restoration, which is a huge part of the work we do. Then we have the biannual Luminous Gala, which brings together industry, patrons and guests. At the last four galas, we’ve had Taron Egerton singing, Tilda Swinton speaking about film, Tom Hiddleston and Steve Coogan. Cate Blanchett and Olivia Colman are incredibly involved. We’re also very privileged to have National Lottery funding. I really want the industry to own the BFI and be proud of it, but we’ve never been complacent.

Clockwise from right: Amanda Nevill with Tom Hiddleston at the BFI Luminous Gala; BFI Film Academy student; a still from silent film Me and my Two Friends (1898), available on BFI player

How do your patrons impact the BFI? One of the things that has been so valuable is the insight our patrons provide. It’s like having direct contact with the people we deliver to, so it’s very nourishing. When things are a bit tough, a good supper with our patrons can make us bounce back very easily. But it’s important for any philanthropist to know their commitment is worthwhile.

The BFI is able to show direct, tangible results from our fundraising efforts, whether that’s the opening of the BFI Reuben Library or the restoration of the Hitchcock Nine.

We were able to bring Hitchcock’s early silent films back to life as a direct result of fundraising, and they toured around the world as part of the 2012 Cultural Olympiad.

One of my great memories is opening the Shanghai Film Museum in 2013 with a premiere of Hitchcock’s The Lodger (1929), newly scored by a Chinese composer. The event was instrumental in getting a co-production treaty signed between China and the UK. What’s the most important thing you’ve learnt as a leader during your time at the BFI? To make things happen. BFI’s former chairman Greg Dyke helped me realise that certain quirks of my personality were actually leadership traits I needed to be a better CEO. I always have a million ideas; when I came into the office after a holiday people would almost be hiding in cupboards knowing that I’d have 50 things I wanted to start right now. But Greg assured me that people are looking to the CEO to take the lead. There are always reasons to delay but, as a CEO, you have to learn when to use your privilege and say: this is the time to take action.

I’m so happy to be stepping down while momentum is so high and couldn’t be happier to hand the reins to Ben [Roberts, CEO]; we’ve worked together for eight years and he’s going to be fantastic in the role. I imagine he might find himself taking some leaps in the dark but, as I’ve learnt, people will look back and see that as an important part of leading an innovative organisation.

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Best of British Amanda Nevill shares her pick of the decade’s most important BFI-backed films I am not a Witch (2017) Dir. Runagano Nyoni Nyoni won a BAFTA for outstanding debut by a British filmmaker for this blisteringly original film. In Zambia, a girl called Shula is accused of witchcraft and forced into a camp where she is told that she will be cursed and transformed into a goat should she cut her ribbon and try to escape.

Inspired by real witch camps, this international collaboration is tragic, comic and chaotic.

God’s Own Country (2017) Dir. Francis Lee This Yorkshire-based epic won accolades at festivals in Berlin, Edinburgh, Chicago, Sundance and more for its remarkable tale of Johnny, a young farmer with a penchant for binge drinking and meaningless sex – until a Romanian migrant worker, Gheorghe, arrives to help with the lambing season and inspires Johnny to far more than a fling.

I, Daniel Blake (2016) Dir. Ken Loach Ken Loach’s everyman masterpiece, about a widower (Dave Johns) struggling to make ends meet after a heart attack. It was met with critical acclaim, winning a score of awards including Best British Film BAFTA, and winning Loach the coveted Palme d’Or at Cannes Film Festival.

Suffragette (2015) and Rocks (2019) Dir. Sarah Gavron Two very different films charting the turning points of women’s lives by filmmaker Sarah Gavron. Starring Carey Mulligan, Suffragette is set during the 1912 women’s suffrage movement, and opened the 2015 London Film Festival.

Gavron’s new film, Rocks, tells the contemporary story of a teenage girl who suddenly finds herself struggling to take care of her younger brother with a cast of young future-stars.

Under the Skin (2013) Dir. Jonathan Glazier This strange and alluring British film stars Scarlett Johansson (below) as an extra-terrestrial roaming the hills of Scotland and seducing men – only to send them to another dimension where they are nothing more than meat.

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NATURAL APPEAL In 2019, eight homes designed by the late Frank Lloyd Wright became the first contemporary US designs to achieve UNESCO World Heritage status. We explore the ever-growing appeal of America’s master of modern architecture Words: Daniel Pembrey

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Fallingwater. Image © Christopher Little/ Western Pennsylvania Conservancy 71

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nitially, Liliane Kaufmann had reservations about Fallingwater, the unique home that architect Frank Lloyd Wright designed for her and business mogul husband Edgar in 1935.

The couple owned Kaufmann’s Department Store in Pittsburgh, a byword for metropolitan style in the era, yet this unusual home in rural Pennsylvania – more than an hour’s drive from Pittsburgh – seemed basic inside; austere, even.

Intimations of the building’s future fame came fast. Time magazine put it on its front cover in 1938 and it went on to be named as “the best all-time work of American architecture” by the American Institute of Architects. In 2019, Fallingwater and seven other Wright-designed buildings became the first modern architecture designation on the UNESCO World Heritage List in the United States.

“It is an immense honor to have Frank Lloyd Wright’s work recognised on the world stage among the most vital and important cultural sites on Earth like Taj Mahal in India, the Pyramids of Giza in Egypt and the Statue of Liberty in New York,” said Stuart Graff, president and CEO of the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation. “It recognises the profound influence of this American architect and his impact on the whole world.”

Wright was born in Wisconsin in 1867, the son of a preacher and musician father and a teacher mother, and was widely travelled in his youth thanks to his father’s ministry positions in Rhode Island, Iowa, Massachusetts and Wisconsin.

Wright would live until 1959, well into the modern era. He set up his architectural studio in Oak Park, Illinois (now open to the public) but travelled far and wide for his work, absorbing influences from pre-Columbian Mexico to ancient Japan. He was a prolific designer. He designed over 1,000 buildings, more than half of which were built. His energy was extraordinary,

not only in terms of the number of projects but also in terms of his capacity to think through the smallest details at a time when everything needed to be drawn by hand.

The eight UNESCO listings reflect the breadth and depth of his achievements. Listed alongside Fallingwater – arguably his masterpiece – is his Unity Temple in Oak Park, the Guggenheim Museum in New York City and five homes, including Wright’s own residences at Taliesin in Wisconsin and Taliesin West in Arizona, plus the recently restored Robie House in Chicago.

The variety of purpose and styles is matched by the diversity of their settings: city, suburban, forest, and desert environments. These listings recognise his influence on the rest of the world and in particular the European Modern Movement in architecture.

By the time Wright designed Fallingwater, aged 68, his ability to synthesise global influences was an art form in itself. The rectilinear patterns, low seating in the living room and the spherical kettle over the fireplace evidence his trips to Japan between 1905 and 1922. Yet the genius of Fallingwater, and the secret of its universal appeal, lies in a unique interpretation of setting – both as a place in the physical landscape and as a point in history.

Standing on the far side of the Bear Run stream, taking in that famous front view of the house, you can’t help marvel at what Wright conjured up here. Fallingwater’s formal purpose as a domestic abode effectively dissolves. The geometric abstraction appears to proceed directly and organically from the rocks.

Yet just as striking is the experience inside the house – one of absolute union with surroundings, specifically that ever-audible waterfall above which the house rests. The interior space is in fact just 2,885 sq ft, increasing to 5,330 sq ft when outdoor terraces are »

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Modern design: View of Fallingwater (right) and inside the property ( far right and below) © Western Pennsylvania Conservancy

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included. To cantilever these terraces, Wright used the latest concrete technology.

Open yet sheltering, dynamic yet unified: Fallingwater is at heart a paradox, defying easy analysis. By her own admission, the worldly Liliane Kaufmann came to glory in its sense of space and peace, ultimately resenting even the slightest addition to the simplicity of her room with its views of leaf-laden trees or bare interlacing branches depending on the season.

The Kaufmanns’ son, Edgar Jr, donated Fallingwater to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy in the 1960s, following his father’s wish to share the property with the public.

Since it attained World Heritage status, the challenge today is navigating the number of visitors. However, for those determined to have the place to themselves, it is possible to book out all the tickets for a given time and relive Mrs Kaufmann’s experience of peaceful solitude.

There are other options, too, for those keen to deepen their experience here. Just six miles away from Fallingwater lies another Wright home, Kentuck Knob. It is one of his ‘usonian’ houses, a term denoting his more modest dwellings.

They are equally well adapted to the landscape. In this case, the original owners had made their money in the local ice cream trade and, Wright observed, they were ‘perchers’ rather than ‘nesters’. Accordingly, the hexagonally patterned structure is contoured to the crest of a hill, blending in given its use of natural materials – predominantly wood and stone.

Kentuck Knob exemplifies his principle of blending the exterior of his designs with natural surroundings: “No house should ever be on a hill or on anything. It should be of the hill. Belonging to it. Hill and house should live together each the happier for the other.”

Since 1986, Kentuck Knob has been owned

by Britain’s Lord Peter Palumbo – a property developer and art collector. He recounts visiting Fallingwater and noting a chance remark by a guide there, which led him to visit the other house, and purchase it a mere six weeks later.

“I went, I saw, I was conquered – at least by the exterior,” wrote Baron Palumbo in his foreword to Donald Hoffman’s 2000 book Frank Lloyd Wright’s House on Kentuck Knob. “A second visit was therefore essential… My ardor burned bright as ever – brighter still, in fact, when the interior of the house not only met, but exceeded, my expectations. And, thus, the purchase was made.”

Kentuck Knob very much feels like a private home today, albeit one with remarkable personal items: a photograph of Palumbo with Princess Diana, and sculptures by Sir Anthony Caro and Andy Goldsworthy in the grounds.

And so, in the hands of new custodians, these Wright buildings remain living entities.

Says MaryAnn Perkins, operations manager at Kentuck Knob: “It’s increasingly popular for discerning visitors to fly in for a private tour and enjoy a fine bottle of wine on a quiet evening – or indeed some local ice cream, of the kind that the original owners made their money from. It lets people experience these places in the way they were intended to be experienced.”

HILL AND HOUSE

SHOULD LIVE TOGETHER EACH THE HAPPIER FOR THE OTHER

- Frank Lloyd Wright

‘Usionian’ style: Kentuck Knob. © Robert Ruschak/ Kentuck Knob archives

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Best in show Tempus heads to Geneva to find out how the Rolex Grand Slam of Show Jumping has revolutionised the sport Words: Michelle Johnson

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nly one athlete has ever won the Rolex Grand Slam of Show Jumping. The concept, launched seven years ago, combines the four most difficult outdoor and indoor show jumping tournaments in the world and winning was said to be an impossible feat until British equestrian Scott Brash (and his horse, Hello Sanctos) proved them wrong in 2015.

To win the Grand Slam, one must win three out of four successive grand prix events at the world’s most prestigious horse shows: CHI Geneva, Switzerland; CHIO Aachen, Germany; CSIO Spruce Meadows ‘Masters’, Canada and The Dutch Masters, The Netherlands. So far, Brash is the only competitor to triumph.

The best equestrians in the world compete not just for the prize money – including a €1m bonus for a Grand Slam win – but for a challenge like no other in the sport.

“The four venues were already, religiously, the best and toughest Grands Prix in the world,” Brash told Tempus. “To put them together in the Rolex Grand Slam and to raise the tournaments to this sort of standard, they are now, without doubt, the best shows in the world.”

It is a tournament that has thrust show jumping into the 21st century – combining stateof-the-art technology, VIP hospitality and, of course, sponsorship from prestige watchmakers Rolex – and, for riders, outshines most other equestrian tournaments.

“It’s obviously a big year with the Tokyo Olympic Games and the World Cup, but the Grand Slam always takes priority,” Brash said.

“What makes our sport so unique is its diversity – a 16-year-old can compete alongside a 60-year-old, man or woman, and have an equal chance of winning. And although we’re competitive in the ring, we’re very much a community outside.”

Amid the action of the Geneva Grand Prix, Tempus met directors from the four Majors to find out how the Grand Slam has revolutionised the world of show jumping – and whether Brash’s landmark win can be repeated. » rolexgrandslam.com

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THE DUTCH MASTERS MARCEL HUNZE | GENERAL MANAGER We are very honoured to be part of the Rolex Grand Slam. I think it’s the most prestigious cycle of the season.

When it started, it did take time for everybody to learn the concept, but now it has become a brand that lot of fans are behind. The best riders in the world are choosing to compete in the Grand Slam, and that has greatly improved our event, making us more international.

What is spectacular is that we have the best horse riders in the world pushing themselves to win like never before. They’re proving themselves beyond their capacity, because it’s just so important to them to win the Rolex Grand Prix at an event. You can feel the atmosphere, which is really exciting.

I think one thing that’s important is we have very diverse fans now that we are part of the Grand Slam. People in the Netherlands come to us every year, if they

know the equestrian world, whereas before they might have gone to Amsterdam, Den Bosch, Maastricht. But nobody wants to miss the Rolex Grand Slam.

We also work together with the three other events, to promote each other and offer feedback at our annual workshop, which is helping us all to become better and better. We always come away with a list of 100 things we can improve, which we always do. Our goal for this year is to have a full house on the first day – we’re currently about 70% full, and have a full house on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Each of the four events is so unique, and we’re only getting bigger and better. But the Dutch Masters is not the biggest event of the four: we have a very nice, cosy atmosphere, with a lot of parties going on at night for the fans, sponsors and riders, while in the day we have a huge promotional village with a lot of shops, which makes for a great day out.

12-15 March 2020

WE HAVE THE

BEST HORSE RIDERS IN THE WORLD PUSHING THEMSELVES TO WIN LIKE NEVER BEFORE

– Marcel Hunze

CHIO AACHEN MICHAEL MRONZ | GENERAL MANAGER We joined Calgary and Geneva as one of the founding partners of the Rolex Grand Slam. We were inspired by the fact that, although riders had a year-round competitive calendar, there were no strong, stand-out tournaments that compared to other sports – like the grand slams you have in tennis. Having this structure has been a great way to orient spectators and the media to the sport, and we’re very pleased Rolex was committed.

All four of the tournaments have a tremendous heritage that is totally different to other events in the FEI calendar. We’re able to offer something different for athletes and spectators at each one, which provides even more of a challenge, say if you have one or two rounds and a jump off, if you’re indoor or outdoor.

Aachen was founded in 1898 and our first tournament was held in 1927. To this day it’s Germany’s official tournament. We’re an outdoor 78

stadium that last year hosted more than 360,000 spectators over the 10-day event, and we’re increasing by 4% every year. Our spectators make the event really special; I mean, if you’re coming into the Rolex Grand Prix or the Nations Cup, and there’s 40,000 people watching in the arena – so many people, but you can hear a pin drop – you automatically feel like a champion.

Our visitors are not just show jumping fans; we also have a target group of event attendees – people who are there to enjoy the hospitality, the experience and a day out. It’s very important to cater for both groups, so social media is vital for us in 2020. It’s important to innovate and engage your audiences, and that’s why it’s so useful for the Rolex Grand Slam partners to compare notes.

You don’t often get the chance to gain insight from your market competitors on how you can all reach the next level of your professionalism, but we have a lot of trust and honesty, which makes this a very special partnership indeed.

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SPORT CSIO SPRUCE MEADOWS ‘MASTERS’ LINDA SOUTHERN-HEATHCOTT | PRESIDENT & CEO My parents, sister and I created Spruce Meadows, in Calgary, 45 years ago. We are planning big celebrations this year for our anniversary – including hosting the blacksmithing world championship and honouring local firefighters, military and other local heroes.

Calgary is unlike any European tournament.

People who visit are shocked by the vastness of the country and space, and we also have a tradition of Western-style horse riding – cowboy-style, rodeo and range horses – in Alberta.

We believe there are four elements to a successful tournament – you need the athletes, the sponsors, the fans and the media. Without all four, we would never have been able to convince athletes to put 50 horses on a plane and fly them to Canada.

Since the beginning, one of our core goals has been to develop Canadian riders to compete on an international level. Today we punch well above our weight class, with the likes of Ian Millar, Gail Greenough, and Eric Lamaze all now competing around the world. We also wanted to have a national and regional

breeding programme, and to educate young people about horses and equestrian sports.

30% of our fans today originally visited Spruce Meadows as school children. Finally, we wanted to produce world class show jumping events for international and local fans.

Signing up to the Rolex Grand Slam was an opportunity to recognise the most significant events in the FEI calendar and create something really special, taking show jumping to the next level.

Some of our partner venues in the Grand Slam are over 100 years old, but while we have a shorter history, we’re proud that even great athletes are determined to win at Spruce Meadows. German show jumper Ludger Beerbaum won four Olympic gold medals, won at Geneva and Aachen, but said: ‘I cannot feel complete until I’ve won at Spruce Meadows’. It was really emotional when he did win.

What’s been phenomenal about the challenge of the Rolex Grand Slam is that we weren’t sure we’d ever see a winner. The stats suggested it could be done – Beerbaum or Lamaze might have done it for Canada – but until Scott Brash won the Grand Slam it felt impossible. That’s what makes it so thrilling.

9-13 September 2020

CHI GENEVA SOPHIE MOTTU MOREL | GENERAL DIRECTOR CHI Geneva has a long history. It has been one of the world’s most famous show jumping events since 1926, but it has always changed and grown since the beginning. Today, we like to put on a big show – we work on the light shows, the music and the atmosphere for our guests – and make sure everyone feels the emotion and pleasure of the experience. We want to provide a big party for both the public and the athletes.

We work very hard on our social media and keeping in touch with the community throughout the year, as well as meeting with our partners and sponsors to keep them informed. I think our passion for the equestrian sports is what comes across; they understand we have big dreams and want to provide a truly special experience. We’re authentic.

It’s not always so easy to strike a balance between honouring the historic elements of the show with innovating for a new generation.

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We have to work hard on that and take on board the range of our fans in the grandstands, while offering something really authentic and new for our younger generation.

The Rolex Grand Slam is a beautiful concept, because it does just this. It is easy to understand for the public – four Majors throughout the year, two indoor and two outdoor – that I was surprised this concept did not already exist.

It’s also great for us, because it has put us on a higher level. We were hosting the World Cup Competitions since 1991, but partnering with Aachen and Calgary was an incredible moment where we knew it would push us to be even better.

For the riders, as well, the Grand Slam changed everything. The opportunity to win really impressive prize money, enter their names in history by winning three or four in a row… For them, it’s incredible to be part of that – especially for Scott Brash to win in 2015. That will stay with him forever.

10-13 December 2020

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WEALTH

It’s who you know…

From sumptuous 17th century châteaus to stunning luxury Greek villas and a state-of-the-art treehouse in Costa Rica, these amazing private members’ homes aren’t available to just anybody.

Tempus speaks to the private property concierges sourcing the impossible Words: Lysanne Currie

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here are certain holiday properties that are only rented out to specially vetted guests, by some equally select individuals.

People like Alexander Kraft, chairman and CEO of luxury real estate organisation Sotheby’s International Realty France.

“Over the past 20 years I have had the privilege of seeing and selling some of the most extraordinary properties in the world,” he says.

“But even by the highest standards, Château de Villette is a truly unique property.”

In a country boasting many a stunning château, this 17th century marvel truly stands out for its priceless antiquity. Not for nothing was it dubbed ‘Le Petit Versailles’, with its octagonal Grand Salon, stately Library, pair of lakes, cascading fountains, pressoir à vin and orangery. It even shares a garden designer with the former royal residency in landscape artist André Le Nôtre. Its period interiors have been enjoyed by the likes of John Travolta and Lenny Kravitz. Tom Cruise (below) rented it for his entourage while shooting 2018’s Mission Impossible: Fallout, taking advantage of its 13 deluxe bedrooms, helipad and a swimming pool which sinks and fills at the touch of a button. Moviegoers may also have seen the Château in The Da Vinci Code, where it stood in for the house of Sir Ian McKellen’s character.

Located forty minutes northwest of Paris, amid 185 wooded acres, its story begins when the revered French architect François Mansart, (the man with a roof named after him), built this heavenly château for the ambassador to Italy for Louis XIV, Jean Dyel. Later, during the Enlightenment, the likes of Thomas Paine, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson rubbed shoulders with owner, the Marquis de Grouchy, and his pioneering feminist daughter Sophie.

“It’s not only an important historical monument with a fascinating history, but has also been restored to a level of comfort and perfection that is rare anywhere in the world, be it London, New York, Singapore or Paris,” says Kraft of the fairytale estate that has since undergone a £20m renovation. “At the same time, it feels neither like a museum nor an overrestored show place, but more like an inviting, tasteful family home – which is a very rare combination indeed.” »

IN A COUNTRY BOASTING MANY A STUNNING CHÂTEAU,

THIS 17TH CENTURY MARVEL TRULY STANDS OUT

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Château de Villette: the luxurious 17th century marvel played host to Tom Cruise and his entourage in 2018 (this page and previous)

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Italian exclusivity: Lake Como villa by Stay One Degree Natasha Martsekis left a career in investment banking to launch luxury villa company Bright Blue Villas, “encompassing everything from sports adventures to gastro-getaways and magical once-in-a-lifetime moments that money can’t easily buy”. While she has many properties on her website, she also has a secret second portfolio which Bright Blue Villas doesn’t market, as her high-profile owners (“global travellers of the world, with private jets”, says Martsekis) don’t want their state-of-the-art properties to be visible. “We don’t give access to private collection without getting to know the guests first,” says Martsekis. “We also have to convince the villa owners that the people who will be staying are top notch and not going to damage their property.” However, she’s just as strict with them too; their properties must be faultless – “we kick out those who don’t comply”.

Oliver Corkhill is another keyholder with ‘secret properties’. While his luxury travel company Leo Trippi specialises in ski and winter breaks, he also caters for his preferred clients with some very special properties “that we rent out to cherry picked clients for our owners who have trusted us with their homes”. In particular, the three villas of the Olea Estate in Mykonos, situated among olive groves in a suitably quiet neighbourhood.

The estate “offers the maximum privacy possibly achieved”, while its sister-estate, Olea Two, requires registration of interest before potential guests can receive any information at all.

Meanwhile, friends Thomas Bennett and Jorge Munoz founded Stay One Degree in 2017, billing the company as ‘the world’s first trusted members’ club for luxury travellers’. Homes are scrupulously handpicked, and guests and owners alike are carefully and extensively vetted to create a “trusted community of travellers with access to exclusive homes all over the world”. Among the 3,000 homes in 50 countries include a Scottish castle, a bungalow in Bali and a “unique architecturally designed treehouse” in Costa Rica, “floating above the canopy on 1.5 acres of hillside jungle”. Says Stay One Degree: “Everyone looking at the [homes] should say ‘Wow, I’d like to stay there one day!’”

Thanks to these UHNW concierges, a fortunate few can do more than just look.

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CASTLES MADE OF SAND Innovative architecture in inhospitable landscapes has become one of the most aspirational trends of 2020. We explore the dramatic debuts reflecting otherworldly landscapes Words: Lauren Jade Hill

SOSSUSVLEI DESERT LODGE, NAMIBIA More lodges have been popping up amid the rolling dunes of the Namib Desert. This property from eco-luxury experts &Beyond is the latest to capture attention having just reopened after a complete rebuild. The new-look desert lodge combines inspired new design, created to withstand extreme elements, with optimum sustainability, pairing a bold geometric structure crafted from rock, steel and glass with solar panels and a water recycling system. Interiors frame the desert landscape in the changing light, shaded terraces enable you to make sublime use of your outdoor space and lap pools reflect the stars at night. Retractable skylights for in-bed stargazing also make the most of the NamibRand Nature Reserve’s status as a Dark Sky Reserve. Namibian artisans created the interior furnishings and natural fabrics were added for an organic feel. Each element of the design circles back to Fox Browne Creative’s intention of creating a refined desert retreat that sits in perfect in harmony with its natural setting. With 215,000 hectares of desert wilderness to explore in this area alone, the focus here is on immersing guests in the extraordinary desert environment for an experience you won’t forget. » andbeyond.com 86

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AMBIENTE SEDONA, USA Hailed as North America’s first landscape hotel, Ambiente Sedona is one of 2020’s most intriguing openings. Taking shape amid the red rocks of Sedona, Arizona, this architecturally impressive property promises a new way for travellers to embrace sustainable tourism in one of the world’s most stunning locations. Ambiente’s ambitious developer, Two Sister Bosses, has teamed with design firm ASUL Architects to create 40 cube-shaped luxury guest atriums.

Cleverly elevated and encased in glass, each gives the illusion of floating above the ground, reflecting the surrounding trees, sky and those magical rock formations. Further proving their dedication to the environment, the design team has ensured these structures sit harmoniously in the terrain, without detracting from the natural beauty. Each structure’s elevation ensures minimal impact on the natural vegetation and the whole property follows the biophilic design concept of incorporating nature into the build.

Earthy elements complete the modern but natural theme, with luxe details such as doublesided fireplaces, platform beds and rooftop with daybeds just made for stargazing. Landscape architects Krizan Associates have also aimed for minimal impact, preserving the native forest while reactivating the site’s ancient waterways.

A trailhead from here provides direct access to over 200 miles of stunning panoramic hiking – if you can bear to leave your beautiful room… ambientesedona.com

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CAMP SARIKA, UTAH, USA Aman’s prominent desert lodge Amangiri turns ten years old this year. To celebrate this milestone, the luxe resorts specialist has created a sister desert property, Camp Sarika. From April, this new camp will welcome guests to relax in its 10 tented pavilions within a 600-hectare wilderness of canyons and vermillion rock formations, a 30-minute hike or short drive from Amangiri.

Just like the original lodge it’s joining, Camp Sarika will draw on the culture and landscape of its surroundings, and as its name – deriving from the Sanskrit words for open space and sky – suggests, you can expect unobstructed views and a connection to the wilderness in one of the most geologically dramatic places on Earth. Designed by Luxury Frontiers, the tented pavilions will combine the spaciousness and clean lines of Amangiri with natural materials that reflect the desert light.

Private terraces with fire pits and heated plunge pools complement the generous living and dining space and a common pavilion, designed by Selldorf Architects, boasts a restaurant, lounge, spa suites, pool and Jacuzzi. Just as a sense of place is expressed through the design, each element of the experience pays homage to the desert setting. Gastronomy will feature the freshest local produce, traditional Navajo wellness practices will allow guests to connect with nature through the spa and explorations will include hiking and horseback riding. Choose your adventure… » aman.com 89

SIX SENSES SHAHARUT, ISRAEL The Negev Desert is a vast expanse of arid plains and rolling sand dunes. The newest addition to the Six Senses portfolio nestles into a cliff-side overlooking this dramatic terrain from the small community of Shaharut – which is the Hebrew word used to describe the moment before dawn – in the Arava Valley. The 58 villas and suites here occupy 18 hectares complete with luxury villas, a restaurant, poolside bar and sumptuous spa.

For this project, Six Senses collaborated with the development company Arava Vineyards whose shared philosophy includes a dedication to wellness and sustainability. Architecturally, the property has been designed to preserve the natural terrain and integrate thoughtfully into the desert topography. Villas built from local rock are furnished with items sourced from local artisans while landscaping integrates regional cacti and indigenous desert blooms. Exterior lighting is kept to a minimum to preserve the clarity of the star-filled night skies. You can tuck into meals making the most of delicious local produce, sample traditional wellness therapies in the spa and stop by the Earth Lab for insight into the property’s sustainability efforts. For more exploration, set out on a dune walk with Bedouins and traverse the land on a jeep safari before ending the day perfectly – with a movie under those dazzling stars. sixsenses.com 90

DESIGN ZULAL WELLNESS RESORT, QATAR Legendary Thai wellness resort ChivaSom – which has itself just emerged from a comprehensive renovation – is looking to the Middle East this year to launch a brand new wellness destination. This new property, in the north of Qatar, will be the first fullimmersion wellness resort in the Middle East and the world’s first centre for Traditional Arabic Integrative Medicine (TAIM). Drawing on the history and culture of this vibrant Middle Eastern hub, the name Zulal – which translates to purified water – is inspired by the traditional journey across the desert to the sea and search for water. Resort developers Msheireh Properties have devised a design that sensitively combines the local heritage with landscaping integrating village-inspired walled gardens and ornamental pools. Chiva-Som’s distinct identity runs throughout: the resort’s core principles of sustainability continue here, along with its commitment to celebrating local culture. Book a stay and you’ll dine on a menu of Arabic and Mediterranean wellness dishes – all deceptively delicious – and experience cuttingedge treatments that draw on local tradition. chivasom.com/zulal

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MISSION: ACCOUNTABLE 120 millionaires shocked this year’s World Economic Forum with an open letter urging international tax reform for the world’s wealthiest individuals. Here’s what they hope to achieve Words: Michelle Johnson

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osted in the idyllic ski resort of Davos, the World Economic Forum made headlines this year for its overwhelming focus on the climate crisis. Speakers included the Prince of Wales and 17-year-old environmental activist Greta Thunberg, who both argued for economic change and immediate action against climate change, while US President Donald Trump was another notable attendee, addressing delegates on America’s economic boom.

Yet for some of the world’s wealthiest, the action promised was not enough. More than 120 millionaires and billionaires used the event to launch their campaign, Millionaires Against Pitchforks. With an open letter calling for international tax reform, they warned that tax evasion has reached “epidemic proportions”.

The campaign aims to increase and enforce taxation of UHNWs around the world in order to use that income to tackle inequality and address the climate crisis. The open letter, entitled ‘Taxes or pitchforks’, warned that “at the low end, at least $8 trillion – almost 10% of the world’s GDP – is hidden in tax havens”. It urged UHNW individuals to “demand higher and fairer taxes on millionaires and billionaires within your own countries and to help prevent individual and corporate tax avoidance and evasion through international tax reform efforts.”

Signatories include Disney heiress Abigail Disney, US Ambassador Alan Solomont, actor Simon Pegg (right), screenwriter Richard Curtis, Innocent Drinks co-founder Richard Reed and British-Sudanese billionaire Mo Ibrahim. British entrepreneur Julian Richer was another UK multimillionaire calling for higher taxation.

“The rich have never been better off, and those who want to hide their wealth from taxation have never had more opportunities to do so,” he told Tempus. “This level of inequality simply isn’t sustainable.

“If we keep allowing the wealthiest corporations and individuals to deprive governments of billions of dollars in tax revenue, we are never going to be able to build a world

equipped to deal with global crises like climate change and poverty. We’re at a tipping point, and the time to speak up is now,” he said.

Richer hit the news last year for handing over control of his hi-fi retailer Richer Sounds to its staff by transferring 60% of his shares into an employee ownership trust, and offering cash bonuses to the chain’s 531 employees. In his 2018 book The Ethical Capitalist, Richer laid out his method of making business work for society, calling for a “kinder” form of capitalism.

The feeling is echoed by his fellow signatories, including actor and screenwriter Simon Pegg.

“We live in a world where just 22 men have the same wealth as all 325 million women in Africa combined,” said the British Mission: Impossible star. “It’s a responsibility for all of us who are fortunate enough to be wealthy to do our bit, pay our fair share and make sure that the people struggling to survive have a better chance at building a better life.”

The US group behind the open letter, the Patriotic Millionaires, was founded in 2010 and is chaired by former BlackRock executive Morris Pearl. This is the organisation’s first international campaign but, according to Iranian-Danish businessman Djaffar Shalchi, gathering international interest from the financial elite was no mean feat. “The feedback was they didn’t want to sign it,” Shalchi told US business news channel CNBC. “Most rich people are scared to sign something like that.”

However, the group hopes that more millionaires will join their cause and take matters of economic inequality into their own hands. “Inequality isn’t inevitable, it’s a policy choice,” Pegg wrote in The Times. “It’s the product of governments passing policies that favour the very wealthy at the expense of the less fortunate.”

It would seem these policies may soon be forced to change in favour of a changing social climate – with the world’s wealthiest leading the charge. millionairesagainstpitchforks.com 92

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SAVE the DATE Your luxury events calendar for February and March 2020

ART & DESIGN Collectors and connoisseurs will delight in the coming months’ cultural touchstones.

Art Rotterdam (6-9 February) presents its annual photo, art and haute photography events, while Milan’s Affordable Art Fair (7-9 February) is where experts invest in future stars of the art world. Frieze Los Angeles (14-16 February) returns to Paramount Pictures Studios after its inaugural edition last year, and the Middle East’s biggest art fair, Art Dubai (25-28 March), returns to the Madinat Jumeirah (left) for its 13th year. Elsewhere, the world’s most northern design fair, Arctic Design Week (18-24 March), provides a unique take on style, substance and sustainable design.

FILM The biggest night in British film comes early this year, with the British Academy Film Awards held on 2 February. As ever, the award show promises to be the biggest indicator of Oscar winners at the Academy Awards (9 February), when legacy directors Martin Scorsese (The Irishman), Quentin Tarantino (Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood) and Sir Sam Mendes (1917) face off for a slew of awards including Best Director. For film fans already looking ahead for next year’s cinematic masterpieces, the Berlinale (Berlin International Film Festival) kicks off festival season (20 February-1 March) and features an homage and honorary Golden Bear award for Dame Helen Mirren (right).

FASHION & STYLE Prepare for the most prestigious design showcases as the fashion industry looks to autumn/winter 2021. Men’s Fashion Week spent January putting sustainable fabrics and relaxed, punk-inspired tailoring in the spotlight on the runways of London, Milan and Paris, and will finish in style in New York (3-5 February). The couture world welcomes Women’s Fashion Week to the runways of New York (7-12 February), London (14-18 February), Milan (18-24 February) and Paris (24 February-3 March).

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VIVA IL PALIO S I E N A , I TA LY

2 9 T H J U N E – 3 R D J U LY 2 0 2 0

This spectacular 5 day/4 night motoring tour takes in the finest driving roads in Tuscany as it meanders through timeless scenery to Il Palio, the historic horse race around the main piazza in Siena. 

Meticulously planned routes each day through rural Tuscany, with relaxed lunch stops

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Intimate 5-star hotels, gourmet cuisine and fine wines

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Exclusive hospitality and grandstand seats in Siena for Il Palio

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Limited to just 20 cars, classic and modern

For a brochure call Chris on 01635 867705 or email chris@v-management.com

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MOTORING Race into Spring with three of the best car shows on the continent.

Salon Retromobile returns to Paris (5-9 February), bringing together the best classic and contemporary cars in Europe. The London Classic Car Show (20-23 February) assembles the world’s most exotic and exquisite marques at Olympia London. Head to Switzerland for the 90th anniversary of the Geneva Motor Show (5-15 March, left), promising an immersive experience into the world of the automotive industry and its innovations. In racing, Formula E will see its star-studded electric street races return for the Mexico City E-Prix (15 February), Marrakesh E-Prix (29 February) and Sanya, China (21 March).

SUPERYACHTS The yachting seasons starts in style at the Miami International Boat Show (13-17 February, left), which offers guests on-the-water boating workshops, seminars, water sports and, of course, some serious yachting eye candy. Follow it up with the Dubai International Boat Show (10-14 March), which combines elegant megayachts, innovative marine technology plus the latest fashions and supercars.

EQUESTRIAN The Cheltenham Festival returns (10-13 March) after another record-breaking year. This prestigious jump racing event will see jockeys compete for more than £4.5m of prize money across the meet. With VIP hospitality available and, new for 2020, entertainment, music and a range of bars available at The Park, the Festival is set to be bigger than ever. If that’s not enough, head to the heart of the Netherlands for the Rolex Grand Slam of Show Jumping’s next test, The Dutch Masters (12-15 Mar, left). The indoor horse show will host the biggest names in equestrian sport amid 65,000 visitors and plenty of entertainment and hospitality – find out more on page 76.

For more exciting events, visit our website: WWW.TEMPUSMAGAZINE.CO.UK 96

VIVA LES VOILES ST TROPEZ, FRANCE

3 0TH S E P T E M B E R – 4TH O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

This exclusive 5 day/4 night motoring tour includes spectacular driving routes through Provence before arriving in St Tropez for the classic yacht regatta Les Voiles de St Tropez. 

Meticulously planned routes through Provence

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First class accommodation including two nights at Château de la Messardière in St Tropez

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Relaxed lunch stops, gourmet cuisine and fine wines

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Full programme of hospitality throughout the weekend

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Limited to just 20 cars, classic and modern

For a brochure call Chris on 01635 867705 or email chris@v-management.com

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DISCOVER SVALBARD ARCTIC SCILENCE

ELECTRIC SNOWMOBILES SKI EXPEDITIONS ICE CAVE TOURS BOOK YOUR next experience AT WWW.HURTIGRUTENSVALBARD.COM

TRIED & TASTED Founded in 1798, Boodles is one of Britain’s best known diamond jewellers. Here, James Amos, director of the family-run company since 2011, swaps fine jewellery for fine dining…

Words: Freddy Clode Visit boodles.com for the latest collections of bespoke and fine diamond jewellery

OCCASION DINING | POLLEN STREET SOCIAL It took just six months from the opening of chef James Atherton’s Mayfair restaurant for it to gain its first Michelin star. The contemporary bistro delivers an informal and convival ambience, as well as dishes created around carefully sourced British ingredients.

Amos says: “Pollen Street Social delivers an amazing culinary journey – along with many more courses than you bargained for…” pollenstreetsocial.com

LOCAL GEM | ISABEL

BOUTIQUE LUNCH | MAISON ASSOULINE

INTERNATIONAL | DUBLIN, IRELAND

Mayfair restaurant Isabel combines South American cuisines with Mediterranean influences throughout its all-day menu. Its warm and atmospheric dining room is complete with a show-stopping central bar.

Maison Assouline on Piccadilly is the fashion crowd’s favourite boutique bookstore. Inside you will find Swans Bar serving up book-themed cocktails and delicious brunch and lunch options.

Family-run L’Ecrivain is owned by local chef Derry Clarke and wife Sallyanne. The Michelin-starred eatery has been serving elegant French cuisine since 1989.

Amos says: “It’s conveniently close to our Bond Street HQ and its staff are ever-charming.”

Amos says: “Maison Assouline is truly incredible – both for its books and food.”

Amos says: “L’Ecrivain is close to our Dublin store, where I was based as MD of Boodles, Ireland. It’s an amazing and interesting restaurant.”

isabelw1.london

assouline.com

lecrivain.com

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