Tempus Magazine | Issue 70 | October-November 2020

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TIMELESS INSPIRATION

BACK TO N ATURE The out-of-this-world destinations and country escapes made to relax, reconnect and re-inspire

DAVID SHRIGLEY | SUSTAINABLE SHOOTING | NEW CULTURAL WONDERS ISSUE

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CHRONOMAT

The Cinema Squad Charlize Theron Brad Pitt Adam Driver





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utumn has traditionally been seen as a time of regeneration and rebirth, from the colours of the harvest to the swift move towards the party season as the weather cools. It is in this spirit of transformation that we are delighted to introduce this issue of Tempus. Although we continue to face challenging times – not just in the ongoing concerns of the Covid-19 pandemic but the period of recession we subsequently face – there is some light in the darkness. At least, according to disputes lawyer Darren Roiser who, in just 18 months, took his firm King & Wood Mallesons London from administration to the 11th floor of 20 Fenchurch Street. In our exclusive interview with Roiser on page 76, the firm’s managing partner says that, as long as we acknowledge the new reality of changing markets, there is opportunity to be found in crisis – and urges those in the luxury and financial sectors to tackle the deficit of social mobility. As we mark Black History Month 2020, his sentiment is more vital than ever, and echoed by Belu’s new CEO, Natalie Campbell. Speaking to our wealth editor, Campbell does not beat around the bush, highlighting the statistics that tell us how inclusive hiring can lead to business growth – and, ultimately, a healthier future for our economy as a whole (36). Elsewhere in this issue, we turn to the environment in an exploration of how country pursuits, such as game shooting, are working to dramatically increase biodiversity and wildlife conservation (50). We also speak to crack shot Rachel Carrie about her passion for field-to-fork advocacy (54), and head to Reims to find out why the world’s first champagne brand Ruinart has teamed up with British artist David Shrigley on a creative sustainability mission (56). On the subject of celebrating British diversity in all its forms, we explore the incredible English country escapes reminding us that the whole world is on our doorstep (40), as well as discover the rising trend of astrotourism (22) – and the remarkable images of the night sky that inspired our celestial cover – which is encouraging us all to switch off, get back to nature and, ultimately, reach for the stars. We hope you enjoy the issue

Michelle Johnson Editor Tempus

Tempus magazine is published by Vantage Media Limited. www.vantagemediagroup.co.uk © 2020 Vantage Media Limited Articles and other contributions published in this journal may be reproduced only with special permission from the Publishers. The Publishers, Vantage Media Limited, accept no responsibility for any views or statements made in the articles and other contributions reproduced from any other source. No responsibility is accepted for the claims in advertisements appearing in this journal and the Publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertisements at their discretion.

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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL TEAM Editor Michelle Johnson michelle@tempusmagazine.co.uk Natalie Campbell The new CEO of water brand Belu speaks to Tempus’ wealth editor Lysanne Currie about the power of social enterprise on page 36.

Creative Director Ross Forbes ross@tempusmagazine.co.uk Wealth Editor Lysanne Currie Motoring Editor Rory FH Smith

Nick Hendrix Actor and writer Nick and photographer Michael Shelford take a road trip to Scotland to put the McLaren GT to the test in our exclusive photoshoot (62).

Sub-Editor Dominique Dinse COMMERCIAL TEAM Sales & Content Executive Freddy Clode freddy@tempusmagazine.co.uk Events Director Georgia Peck

Lauren Jade Hill From Egypt’s grandest museum to Hollywood’s tribute to film, our travel expert Lauren explores the new cultural landmarks making their debut (16).

VANTAGE MEDIA LIMITED Chairman Floyd Woodrow Managing Director Peter Malmstrom

Rory FH Smith Our motoring editor Rory goes behind the scenes of the ABB FIA Formula E championship to pop the hood on the most thrilling – and challenging – series yet (30).

Operations Director Colin Clark colin@vantagemediagroup.co.uk GET IN TOUCH Tempus Magazine Vantage Media Limited 22 South Audley St London W1K 2NY +44 (0) 203 519 1005 info@tempusmagazine.co.uk

tempusmagazine.co.uk @tempusmagazine @tempusmagazine

Responsibly printed

COVER IMAGE The night sky in Trentino, Italy Credit: @Roberto Bragotto Photographer/Fototeca Trentino Sviluppo S.p.A. Article on page: 22

Printed by Park Communications, UK on Edixion Offset (FSC® certified paper) using vegetable inks and sustainable printing methods. www.parkcom.co.uk 7


CONTENTS

10 The luxe list This season’s top 10 must-haves 14 Style statement Savile Row tailor Davies & Son tells us how gentlemen are ripping up the rule book 16 Culture shock We discover the new global landmarks and museums that have local culture at their heart 22 Written in the stars Tempus explores the inspiring world of astrotourism 26 The art of sprezzatura The Outlierman founder Andrea Mazzuca on reinventing Italian driving style 30 Racing against the odds How Formula E’s unorthodox end to the season saved a summer of motorsport 36 Rivers of change Belu CEO Natalie Campbell on the power of social enterprise and inclusive businesses 40 A world away Introducing the English country hotels that are raising the game for luxury escapes 48 On your marques... The classic car shows making their triumphant return to the UK 50 Take your best shot How shooting became a bastion of wildlife conservation 54 Ahead of the game Crack shot and field-to-farm activist Rachel Carrie shares her recipe for eco-friendly food production 56 Be positive – and drink champagne! Artist David Shrigley speaks to Tempus about his Carte Blanche collaboration with Maison Ruinart 62 Tour de force We put the McLaren GT through its paces on a roadtrip to Scotland 70 Material world Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué shares his exciting vision for the sustainable future of watchmaking 74 A taste of glamour Tempus joins Oeno Group in Venice to rediscover the romance of fine wine 76 Energy, enthusiasm, empowerment KWM managing partner Darren Roiser tells us how times of crisis can inspire opportunity 80 Heartfelt minimalism An exclusive invite inside Amman Villa, an opulent home created to entertain friends and nurture family 86 Where tomorrow never dies Discover the allure of the GoldenEye Resort, Bond author Ian Fleming’s Jamaican idyll 90 Between the lines Dip into the pages of the greatest novels of the year with the 2020 Booker Prize shortlist 94 Save the date The finest events of the season 100 Tried & tasted Seven Decades founder Phil Hylander shares his pick of London’s most rock ‘n’ roll restaurants

ISSUE 70


22 Written in the stars

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The LUXE LIST Our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal must-haves

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7 Over 7 An indulgent wellness brand to soothe all the senses, 7 Over 7 was founded by London-based yoga and meditation coach Minal Bhanshali to inspire and relax. Bhanshali created seven candles (right) to evoke specific emotions. From invigorating combinations of florals and spices to evoke love or creativity, to subtle and calming scents designed to be more grounding, these unique fragrances are ideal for adding a touch of spiritual sophistication to your home. For those who meditate, the perfume-like layers of scent are specifically designed to add to the sensory experience, helping to achieve a deeper state of flow. Each candle comes beautifully packaged in refillable, handcrafted ceramic pots – a tactile touch for a product designed to help you breathe in, and let go. Scent-sational.

READER OFFER

Enjoy 25% off any online order before 31 December 2020 with the code Tempus77 live7over7.com

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Suciyan Belt Buckles With men’s jewellery taking centre stage in 2020, and utility dressing and function the order of the day on the catwalk, there is no better way to up your accessories game than with Suciyan’s range of statement belt buckles adorning luxurious vegetable-tanned leather belts. Jewellery designer Arman Suciyan’s intricately handcrafted belt buckles are made in 925 sterling silver, and come in a range of timeless designs – each with a spark of individuality. Our favourites are new designs in the Intersection and Dragonknot collections – the former takes inspiration from the designer’s childhood in Istanbul and the aerodynamic shapes of the classic automobiles he loved, while the Dragonknot Collection (left) offers statement symbols – so showing off your bold, dynamic side is a cinch. suciyan.com

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Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie The newest novelty in the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection, the Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie timepiece (left) is endowed with a unique bespoke Grand Feu enamel dial, crafted by Anita Porchet. Powered by the Code 11.59’s new hand-wound movement, the calibre 2956, the carillon of the Grande Sonnerie timepiece provides the high acoustic performance of a pocket watch. Not only does this allow for the timepiece’s three gongs and hammers to strike the quarter hour with three successive notes instead of two, but in the ‘petite sonnerie’ position the minute repeater chimes just the hours. Automatic chiming can also be deactivated, if you wish, when in silent mode. A timeless blend of music and art. audemarspiguet.com

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Rolls-Royce Ghost The most highly anticipated luxury car launch of the season has arrived. The Rolls-Royce Ghost is the epitome of beauty in restraint, a sleek saloon that retains an old-world charm while proving the marque’s most technologically advanced car yet. Built on the brand’s proprietary aluminium spaceframe architecture, the Ghost (right) features all-wheel drive and all-wheel steering for poise and surefootedness and the world-first planar suspension system, which significantly increases agility – all powered by a hallmark 6.75-litre twin-turbo V12 engine delivering 571PS and 850nm. Inside, driver comfort is enhanced by Rolls-Royce’s acoustic technology, which keeps noise levels to a specific resonant frequency to create a sense of serenity, while the new illuminated fascia features the Ghost nameplate surrounded by more than 850 stars for an ethereal evolution of its stunning starlight headliner. Reach for the stars – from the comfort of your seat. rolls-roycemotorcars.com

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Blackwell Fine Jamaican Rum 007 Limited Edition Launched in anticipation of the release of the newest Bond film, No Time To Die (now delayed until April 2021), Blackwell’s 007 Limited Edition is an aged, rich and fragrant dark gold rum, inspired by founder Chris Blackwell’s family recipe and filled with the warmth and sensuality of Jamaica. “This is a rum that celebrates Jamaica, my friendships, and also my family legacy,” adds Blackwell, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame producer and owner of the GoldenEye Resort – the luxury hotel resort that was once the Caribbean bolthole of Bond author Ian Fleming. The limited-edition rum (left) features a unique AR experience, available via a QR code on the bottle, where Blackwell, who is best known for discovering Bob Marley, comes to life to share life stories, music selections and cocktail recipes – shaken, not stirred. blackwellrum.com

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Bentley x Naim and Focal Bentley Motors has collaborated with specialist audio brands Naim and Focal on two unique audio speakers designed for music lovers: the Naim Mu-So for Bentley Special Edition wireless speaker system and the Focal for Bentley Radiance Headphones. Both (right) take design cues from Bentley’s Mulliner Bacalar and EXP 100 GT electric concept car, featuring copper accents and a recurring lattice pattern inspired by the headlights. The limited-edition Naim Mu-So combines audio expertise with the latest music-streaming technology, and is finished in sustainable African hardwood. Focal’s Radiance Headphones feature earcups made from Pittards gloving leather, while high-quality audio components are tuned to share the sonic signature of the Mu-So. Automotive style has never sounded so good… bentleymotors.com; naimaudio.com; focal.com

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Sketch Lecture Room & Library Sketch London is Mayfair’s most avant garde restaurant, bar and lounge, consistently namechecked as one of the world’s most beautiful venues. From the Gallery dining room’s flamingo-pink décor and permanent exhibit of work by British artist David Shrigley, to the Parlour cocktail bar with its quirky interiors (including chair legs dressed in ballet shoes), this artistic venue by restaurateur Mourad Mazouz has something for all tastes. We particularly enjoy Pierre Gagnaire’s three Michelin-starred Lecture Room & Library (left): from grandly domed, plushlydecorated dining room to its selection of decadent seven-course tasting menus, it is entirely too much. And too much, in perfect Sketch style, is just enough. sketch.london

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Technogym Personal Line Perfect your high-tech home gym with Technogym’s Personal Line. Technogym, the official supplier of the last eight Olympic Games, has collaborated with designer Antonio Citterio to create a new range of fitness equipment – including treadmill, bike, elliptical, and power station – designed to seamlessly integrate with any interior style. The line is also equipped with Technogym Live – a console that allows users to choose from personalised training experiences including trainer-led sessions, athletic training routines, outdoor virtual training and a range of entertainment options. Whether you’re looking to create your ideal home gym or bring your favourite workout into your living space, this is sure to get you moving. technogym.com

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Steinway & Sons Appassionata Limited to just 10 pieces, Steinway & Sons’ Apassionata grand piano (right) has been created in tribute to celebrate the 250th anniversary of Ludwig Van Beethoven’s birth. Named for the composer’s Piano Sonata No. 23 in F Minor op. 57 (more commonly known as Apassionata), the specially designed piano is based on the brand’s B-211 grand piano model and features excerpts of the sonata’s score over the case and inside the lid. The Steinway grand is also equipped with the innovative, self-playing Spirio system, allowing the player to enjoy a variety of music, recorded by renowned Steinway artists. For each Apassionata sold, Steinway & Sons will donate €10,000 to the German Orchestra Foundation to support musicians in Germany. Music to anyone’s ears… steinway.com

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Aqua Shard Peter Pan Afternoon Tea Add a touch of magic to your afternoon tea with Aqua Shard’s whimsical tribute to author and playwrite JM Barrie. In partnership with Great Ormond Street Hospital Children’s Charity (GOSH), the Peter Pan Afternoon Tea is inspired by the character’s adventures in Neverland, all served on an awe-inspiring model of Captain Hook’s pirate ship (left). A savoury selection of treats includes finger sandwiches and mushroom stool bread, ‘codfish’ brandade croquettes complete with pastry hook. Creatively named desserts feature Tinker Bell cookies, Tick-Tock the Crocodile and Hook’s Perish Cake. Accompanied by Aqua Shard’s Fairy Dust cocktail or Darling Tea, it’s enough to make anyone believe in magic… aquashard.co.uk

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Style statement Established in 1803, Davies & Son is Savile Row’s oldest gentlemen’s tailor. While, recently, fashionforward customers have been ripping up the rule book when it comes to formal wear, the tailor’s head cutter Patrick Murphy says there are some rules of suiting that will never be unwritten…

THE SAVILE ROW GENTLEMAN

DICTATES THE STYLE RULES FOR HIS GENERATION

Photos: ©Davies & Son

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veningwear for gentlemen has never been more interesting. Traditionally, men’s dinner suits or tuxedos have kept to a pretty standard style but, over the past 20 years, fashion-forward celebrities have been taking more sartorial risks at high-scale events such as the Baftas, or Met Gala in the US. Today, there’s any combination of style, pattern and colour available to change up traditional suit cuts, whereas 50 years ago even Dean Martin would have played it safe with a single-breasted dinner suit, black bow tie and white dress shirt. In my 36 years on Savile Row – and in my dad’s time as a tailor before me – tailoring has never followed trends or imposed fashions. Rather, the Savile Row gentleman can dictate the style rules for his generation. Even now, those rules are holding firm. Where it gets exciting is in how gentlemen are interpreting the rules with more flair than ever before. At the heart of bespoke tailoring is the simple belief that we make what our clients ask us to. Many of our clients at Davies & Son still come to us for traditional tailoring, although we have a growing number of younger guys looking for something new. This could be through colours and textures of fabric to how they accessorise with shoes and ties. A bespoke suit must look stylish no matter the stature, shape, size or style of our client – and that’s never more important than when bringing something unique or dramatic to the suit. We wouldn’t want our clients to look tacky or wear an ill-fitting suit, for example. I’ve seen how a small mistake in the choice of cut can make a suit look completely disproportionate, and so we always guide our customers towards cuts that will flatter their unique body shape and still fit their request. For example, if you’re a quiet gentleman who wants a black-and-white check three-piece, this might not actually give you the bold look you’re intending – whereas if you’re exuberant and high-energy, you could carry this off more easily whatever your size. There are many things you can do to make a suit your own, even 14

something as simple as adjusting the thickness of the stripes. This is never more apparent than with eveningwear, where the way in which someone wears a suit is everything. We could make the same, simple black suit for two customers and they would look completely different wearing it. In the right suit, some have a presence that can make the blandest suit look empowering. It’s about your stature, yes, but your mental stature as well. Some of our clients make me look like the best cutter in the world simply by how they walk in their suit. This is the difference between fashion and style. For example, David Beckham is a handsome, fashionable man but, in my opinion, somehow he’s never looked good in a suit. Whereas Michael Caine or Patrick Macnee (who played John Steed in TV’s The Avengers) both had serious style. The way Steed’s tie was knotted perfectly, right up to the top of his shirt: those little consistencies are what true style is about. Designers like Alexander McQueen changed everything in the high fashion world but, when it comes down to men’s suits, there is history in every cut. In the 1980s there was a hunger for high-powered Italian suits with big, padded shoulders – the same was popular in the ’40s. Currently, we’re seeing low-rise trousers cut so slim that if you put your phone in your pocket you could see the number you’re ringing, but I can see the next wave of popular suits will turn away from this, and go back to higher-waisted trousers, perhaps still with the very slim-fit jacket that reflects the Mod look of the ’60s, or even the riding jackets of 1900. Another important trend that’s here to stay is sustainability. Environmental impact has become increasingly important to our material suppliers and much of our fabric is still bought from English manufacturers. English cloth has always been highly valued and that, much like our tailoring, will remain constant no matter what rules stylish gentlemen dare to break. daviesandson.com


COLUMN

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CULTURE

SHOCK

From long-awaited tributes to ancient archaeology, underwater art galleries and haute horology, a celebration of local life is at the heart of the most significant new landmarks taking shape around the world. We pinpoint the hottest making their debut around the globe

Words: Lauren Jade Hill

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TRAVEL

THE MUSEUM OF UNDERWATER ART | QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA The first two of four sites making up The Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA) — Ocean Siren and Coral Greenhouse, both in Townsville — made their debut in North Queensland earlier this year. The remaining two sites, which will be found at nearby Palm Island and Magnetic Island, will come to completion towards the end of 2020 and into 2021. Not only is MOUA the first site of its kind in Australia, with installations dotted across the Great Barrier Reef, it’s also a source of reef rehabilitation and a beacon for increased awareness of this threatened ecosystem. 17

The world-renowned underwater sculptor, Jason deCaires Taylor, is creating these art installations (pictured) in collaboration with local and indigenous artists. Working together, they aim to produce a series of artworks that reflect ocean conservation action, while also having a positive environmental impact on the reef and showcasing local indigenous culture. Start your exploration of these sites by seeking out the sculptor’s intertidal, solar-powered sculpture, Ocean Siren, then enlist a local dive operator to set out on a tour of the Coral Greenhouse installation on John Brewer Reef. » moua.com.au


HAYY: CREATIVE HUB | JEDDAH, SAUDI ARABIA This cultural site brought to fruition by the organisation supporting creative communities of the Middle East, Art Jameel, is slated for debut in 2021. Named ‘Hayy’ after the Arabic word meaning ‘living’ to refer to a neighbourhood, the creative site takes up a 17,000sqm expanse of the Al Muhammadiyah district in Jeddah. This creative community will provide a home for the Saudi Arabian port city’s burgeoning creative industries. Altogether, Hayy: Creative Hub will provide space for 12 partnership organisations ranging from art and design galleries to cafes and performance venues, alongside a theatre, exhibitions, event spaces and artist studios. An Art Jameel-run arts centre will then curate and host additional local and international art showcases. Art Jameel commissioned the design studio Waiwai to create an environment that will act as a major new cultural hub for Jeddah through a contemporary development of dynamic architecture featuring internal courtyards, shaded terraces and walkways. Ultimately, this will be a space where the creativity of Saudi Arabian artists, playwrights, filmmakers, designers and photographers is nurtured and given an audience. artjameel.org/centres/hayy-jeddah

MUSÉE ATELIER AUDEMARS PIGUET | LE BRASSUS, SWITZERLAND A trip to Le Brassus in the Vallée de Joux will now offer even greater insight into the world of Swiss watchmaking following this summer’s launch of the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. This new architecturally impressive site invites guests into an immersive experience retracing more than 145 years of watchmaking history. Designed by Danish architect Bjarke Ingels, the structure is shaped like a coil to resemble a watch spring, linking the newly built space with the original house where Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet set up their business in 1875. Its interiors act as an exhibition space showcasing the watchmaking achievements of this prestigious Swiss brand. Visitors can tour an exhibition of 300 timepieces from more than 200 years of watchmaking history, including rare timepieces such as the Universelle, crafted in 1899 with 21 functions and 13 hands. Take a tour to see watchmakers at work and, from next year, combine your visit with a stay at the Hotel des Horlogers –opening alongside the museum with a zigzagging ski slope on its roof. museeatelier-audemarspiguet.com

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WORLD OF WINE | PORTO, PORTUGAL Proximity to swathes of vines and a long history in wine trade and port production has long assured Porto’s association with the wine world. As a result, travellers make the journey from across the globe to taste locally made port and step into the coastal city’s ancient cellars. Now, this particular heritage is being brought into the present with the creation of Porto’s new cultural district, World of Wine. The district officially opened on 31 July following a five-year, €105million development spearheaded by The Fladgate Partnership, owners of the port wine brands Taylor, Croft, Fonseca and Krohn, The Yeatman and Infante Sagres hotels in Porto and The Vintage House Hotel in the Douro Valley. Seeing the transformation of an area of Vila Nova de Gaia, the development, which in Portugal has been recognised as a Project of National Interest, has resulted in the renovation of 15,000 sq m of centuries-old wine cellars, along with the creation of a complex housing six immersive museum experiences, a collection of restaurants, cafes and bars, retail outlets and a wine school. Experiences designed to take you on a sensorial journey aim to demystify wine while laying bare Porto’s history, industries and traditions. All of this is designed around a square commanding views over Porto and its grapecultivating surroundings. » Wow.pt

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THE GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM | CAIRO, EGYPT Once completed in 2021, The Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) will be the world’s largest museum dedicated to the people, history and culture of Ancient Egypt. Led by the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities of the Arab Republic of Egypt, this development, which began in 2012, now covers almost 500,000sqm, with exhibition spaces, a children’s museum, educational space, research centre and library, cinema, restaurants and shops. Even the gardens will display architectural elements from temples in Egypt among their native trees. The museum’s vision is to preserve and display Egypt’s national heritage, with research and conservation work already under way in its stateof-the-art laboratories. The theme of kingship will run throughout, starting in the Grand Hall with an exhibition on Kingship and Power and continuing up the Grand Stairs’ vertical gallery, which ends with panoramic views of the Giza pyramids. Galleries will contain objects dating back several thousand years with technology to help you discover the wonders of Ancient Egypt through the most modern virtual reality. gem.gov.eg

GES-2 | MOSCOW, RUSSIA A disused Moscow power station, built in 1907 and which once supplied energy to the Kremlin, is about to enter a new era. The listed GES-2 power plant, owned by V-A-C – a foundation established in 2009 by billionaire Leonid Mikhelson and director Teresa Iarocci Mavica – is soon to become an exciting new contemporary arts hub. The acclaimed architectural firm, Renzo Piano Building Workshop, is behind the 20,000sqm site’s high-energy transformation. Once complete, the complex will house an indoor amphitheatre-like stage, galleries, a glassfronted playhouse, library, learning centre and artist residency block, as well as café, restaurant and shop, with a pier at the front of the building for visitors to eventually access the site by boat. The new site promises to embody the V-A-C foundation’s creative spirit through workshops, housed in former vodka warehouses, for creative practitioners covering disciplines from textiles and ceramics to 3D printing. GES-2 is on track to open in the first half of 2021. v-a-c.org/en/ges-2

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TRAVEL

ACADEMY MUSEUM OF MOTION PICTURES | LOS ANGELES, USA Paying homage to cinema, the Academy Museum promises to be the world’s premier institution dedicated to the art and science of movies. Opening in April 2021, this celebration of film will provide an immersion into the art, technology, artists, history and social impact of moviemaking. Exhibitions and programmes here will draw on the collections and expertise of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts & Sciences. These will be housed in an impressive six-storey structure designed by the Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano, with education areas, a conservation studio, café and two theatres in addition to its exhibitions space. A year-round calendar of screenings will show in the museum’s 1,000-seat David Geffen Theater and 288-seat Ted Mann Theater. Visitors will begin their immersion into the world of filmmaking by taking in the Stories of Cinema exhibitions, before gaining insight into visual effects of The Matrix – and even getting to feelwhat it’s like to accept an Oscar. academymuseum.org

The Academy Museum (©Renzo Piano Building Workshop/©A.M.P.A.S./ L’Autre Image); Clapperboard and Oscar statuette (1927) (©Joshua White, JWPictures/©Academy Museum Foundation)

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WR ITT EN I N THE

S TA R S The ability to switch off, disconnect and refocus our energies has never been more desirable – or necessary. Tempus explores the travel trend designed to help us do just that. Welcome to the out-of-this-world realm of astrotourism Words: Ross Forbes

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TRAVEL

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he stars have always been a source of inspiration to humanity and, as remote and digital working trends accelerate beyond our wildest predictions this year, there’s rarely been a better time to rediscover the abiding beauty of the night sky. While, for many, the convenience of doing business from wherever we happen to be has certainly had its perks since the advent of lockdown in March, leaders of industry have also noticed an increase in screen time and overdigitalisation making its presence known in their lives and companies. While the ability to switch off and give our overworked eyes – and minds – a much-needed break is paramount in these times, continued travel and dining restrictions can make it difficult to plan the usual relaxing ski breaks or paradise island trips. Enter an unexpected emerging trend in luxury travel: astrotourism. At its heart, astrotourism is a very clever rebranding of what has, until now, been seen as a niche interest. From finding the clearest skies, chasing eclipses, or searching for elusive shooting stars, there are many destinations around the world that count stargazing among their most popular guest experiences. Famous stargazers include musicianturned-physicist Brian Cox, who popularised astrotourism with his BBC documentaries charting astronomical events. “When we look out into space, we are looking into our own origins, because we are truly children of the stars,” he says. »

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CHILDREN OF THE STARS The night sky constantly changes depending on where you are in the world and the time of year, with constellations, meteors and planets all easily visible. But there are sure-fire ways to see more – if you know where to look. The key to getting the best out of astrotourism is to head off grid, away from the light pollution of big cities and into the clear nights of deep rural areas. An added bonus to this requirement is that, by heading to remote destinations and lowlit lodges, stargazing can in fact help spread the impact of tourism more evenly across the planet – from rates of carbon footprint to investment into local economies. To find some of the world’s darkest skies, head to Namibia. With the nearest community more than 60 miles away, NamibRand Nature Reserve was awarded gold tier Dark Sky Reserve status by the International Dark-Sky Association in 2012; its remote location allows for clear views of the spectacular Southern Cross and Scorpio constellations, among others. Don’t miss nearby Boulders Safari Camp, part of the Wolwedans Collection, which offers guests a two-night hiking trail and chance to sleep under the stars. For island-lovers, Mauritius’ idyllic Bubble Lodge allows guests to sleep in transparent, eco-friendly “dreaming bubbles” created by French designer Pierre Stéphane Dumas. There, an on-site astronomer will help guests identify constellations and other night-sky phenomena, such as Pegasus and the Milky Way. A third far-flung starspot is the Puerto Rican island of Vieques, which has remarkably low levels of light pollution thanks to its status as a protected nature reserve. On moonless nights, take a Bio Bay Tour of Mosquito Bay, one of just five bioluminescent bays in the world.

OVER THE MOON Though the stars themselves may seem out of reach, the best places to see the night sky in vivid detail might be closer to home than you think. For a romantic, starlit experience, the mountains of Trentino boast the most beautiful skies in Italy. In fact, this luxurious destination is one of the best places on earth to witness the full majesty of the Milky Way. Head to the Val di Sole valley, where you can gaze at the heavens surrounded by fresh air and alpine scenery. Areas of the UK also offer unparalleled views of the constellations – Exmoor National Park, the Welsh Brecon Beacons, Scotland’s Dark Sky Park in Galloway Forest and the Storr on the Isle of Skye are but a few. The richest astronomical experience is perhaps closest to home, on the Isle of Wight. A designated Unesco Biosphere Reserve, with some of the darkest skies in the UK, this small island off the south coast is easily accessible via Wightlink ferry. The best stargazing locations lie along the Military Road on the south-west coast of the island, where astrotourists can view the Milky Way, Cassiopeia, Orion, the Plough and more. Enthusiasts should also head to the Island Planetarium at Fort Victoria to learn more about the dazzling galaxies above. Wherever one chooses to travel to make the most of the night sky, and whether on the hunt for a scientific adventure or a romantic, rejuvenating trip, the key to unwinding lies in embracing the stillness, majesty and vastness of space – then, after re-learning how to disconnect, we can remember what it’s like to reach for the stars.

WHEN WE LOOK INTO SPACE, WE ARE LOOKING INTO OUR OWN ORIGINS… WE ARE TRULY CHILDREN OF THE STARS – BRIAN COX

Clockwise from top left: Bio Bay Tour, Puerto Rico; Stargazing in Namibia; Bubble Lodge, Mauritius. Previous: Alpine views in Trentino, Italy

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TRAVEL

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The art of Sprezzatura The Outlierman founder Andrea Mazzuca on how his handmade Italian accessories for motorists are driving classic style into the future

Words: Georgia Peck

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STYLE

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hen Andrea Mazzuca bought his first sportscar, a Jaguar F-type, it was the beginning of an enduring passion – and style transformation – that would soon influence automotive enthusiasts the world over. Mazzuca founded The Outlierman in 2015 to provide Italian-made driving gloves, scarves, ties and pocket squares inspired by the greatest cars in the world, and soon beloved by discerning classic car collectors. “I was looking for finely made driving gloves but nothing I found was both stylish and beautifully made,” he says. “I thought, there has to be many people who share my frustration – and so decided to create something myself.” Six months later, Mazzuca and his business partner had launched an e-commerce portal with a selection of painstakingly detailed, 100% Italian-made products available in a range of colourways and fine materials. Since then, The Outlierman has partnered with California’s Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, created capsule collections for automotive marques Pagani and Mini, and now serves a diverse range of classic car collectors, capturing their loyalty through a rigorous commitment to authenticity, quality and variety. Speaking exclusively to Tempus from his home in Bologna, Mazzuca shares his plans, influences and love of Italian craftsmanship. »

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Driving style: Andrea Mazzuco's (above and right) gloves and accessories are inspired by iconic classic cars Andrea, The Outlierman is inspired by legendary car brands. Tell us more? It’s true, all of our expressions are inspired by classic cars from different ages. I own an Aston Martin Vantage N420, Jaguar F-type and a Porsche 993, and I wanted gloves inspired by these legendary vehicles. First, our team researched everything from colour configurations of cars of the ’50s and ’60s – trims, materials, everything – because we wanted to infuse our designs with real details to better capture the whole automotive lifestyle. It’s been very cool; our team’s DNA and personality are in every product. I’ve always felt that if I like something, I can spread the world easily because I trust in what I’m wearing. My style can be classic or very contemporary, and our products offer many different styles to each of our customers. Did you have a fashion background when you founded the company? The honest answer is no. My background is in marketing and communications, so creating this brand was a big challenge. We didn’t have any contacts in the crafts industry when we started so, finally, when we found the right people we had to learn quickly about longevity – because our products are handmade in Italy, many of our craftspeople are older, or close to retirement, and we have to make sure they have others who can carry on the traditions. How did those traditions inspire your 100% Made in Italy ethos? Firstly, it was a difficult decision to make because Italian production is, admittedly, very expensive. On the other hand, the quality of products that you can reach is so beautiful.

We work with specialist craftspeople for each product because, in Italy, that’s how handmade manufacture is done – there are no shortcuts. But I felt that if we were making something of truly great quality, we could afford to take more time to become successful; in the end, quality always pays back. Today, we have many customers who are very loyal to the brand and buy new products every month, and that is down to the quality. You have also started to offer bespoke items via your Tailor Made Lab service. Yes, we started this service following requests from our customers. If you buy a bespoke sports car – perhaps in a unique colour or style – it can be difficult to find accessories that match. We have strong relationships with many of our customers and were very happy to start creating more individual configurations that still have our handmade ethos. How has your business strategy evolved? A big part of our strategy is offering consistent variety. We launch a new colour or design within our driving glove collection each month, although that’s been more difficult this spring since Covid-19 lockdowns have impacted on our manufacturers. But we have some exciting partnerships in progress, such as capsule collections for events and automotive brands. The classic car market is very diverse – we have clients aged from 23 to 80 years old, and ship to more than 55 countries worldwide. It’s very interesting, because our niche isn’t governed by countries or locations but the passion for classic cars, which has always inspired us. theoutlierman.com 28


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RACING

AGAINST THE ODDS How Formula E’s unorthodox but epic end to the season saved the summer of motorsport – and produced a most unlikely champion Words: Rory FH Smith

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n 29 February 2020, as the sun set over the majestic city of Marrakech, 28-yearold racer António Félix da Costa (right) was celebrating his first victory of the sixth season of the ABB FIA Formula E Championship. Just outside the ancient city walls, the DS Techeetah driver stood on top of the podium as crowds chanted and cheered. Da Costa’s season was off to a flying start. Life was good. But little did he, or anyone in the all-electric race series paddock, know of the severity of the storm that was about to hit. It would be another 11 days until the full force of Covid-19 would hit the western world, when it was officially declared a pandemic by the World Health Organisation. While governments panicked, locking down populations in a bid to stem the spread, the world as we knew it gradually slipped out of sight. For Formula E, as for sport in general, the action was over. Temporarily, at least. But, for the series’ protagonist da Costa, a very different but special season of Formula E was just getting started. Until this point, the first three months of the 2019/20 Formula E season had been remarkably strong for da Costa. After leaving BMW’s squad and signing to his new team DS Techeetah during the off-season, the Portuguese driver had scooped two second-place finishes in Santiago and Mexico City before making his way to the top step of the podium in Marrakech. Just one year previously, that same race ended in disaster, when a clash with his BMW teammate sent him into the wall, curtailing his chances of victory. “It was a great comeback for Marrakech,” he said after his 2020 win. But the celebrations – and the season, it seemed – were short-lived. Just days after restrictions were enforced around the world, Formula E decided to temporarily suspend all races for the foreseeable future. After all, trying to run a global, city centre-based race series amid a global pandemic lockdown was never going to be straightforward. » 30


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©Dom Romney/LAT Images 31


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Racing dream: António Félix da Costa fights for Formula E glory (©Sam Bloxham/ LAT Images)

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AN UNEXPECTED PIT STOP Despite the spread of the coronavirus worsening by the day, Formula E returned to racing in April – with the virtual Race at Home Challenge. Partnering with Unicef, the onlineonly competition aimed to raise funds to help children around the world affected by Covid-19, while keeping the drivers occupied and on the ball from the comfort of their own simulators. Not counting towards the paused 2019/20 championship, the virtual challenge provided some light-hearted entertainment in a world craving competitive sport. While younger drivers rose to the challenge, the older electric racing establishment was nowhere near the top: da Costa finished second from last. While his strength on the simulator left much to be desired, da Costa was patiently waiting for the real racing to restart. Five seasons without even a sniff of the championship, the Portuguese driver had so far failed to finish any higher than sixth overall since his Formula E debut in 2014. “We had a very tough first year,” said da Costa, reflecting on his first campaign in the series. “In season three and four, I was just completing laps on the track, being lapped by Sebastien Buemi, Lucas di Grassi and Jean-Eric Vergne… that was really tough.” But when BMW established a team ahead of the fifth season in 2018, da Costa found his form. After winning the manufacturer’s first race, things started to look up. “That for me was like the weight off my shoulders and, it was like, ‘I still have it… I can still beat these guys.” But a strong start tailed off after Jean-Eric Vergne swept to his second consecutive championship title in 2019. After the initial promise, what turned out to be another ultimately unsuccessful season with BMW saw da Costa jump ship ahead of the sixth season. “I saw a better chance of winning [with DS Techeetah] and I made the move,” he said. It was an easy decision for the young hopeful, desperate to prove his potential. »


Driving ambition: António Félix da Costa (above, ©Sam Bloxham/LAT Images) leaps for joy on the winner’s podium in Marrakech 2020; Maximilian Günther and Jean-Eric Vergne take second and third position (right, © Simon Galloway/LAT Images) BACK ON TRACK With so many forgettable seasons behind him, the Formula E stalwart was eager to get back on track, and jumped at the chance to resume racing on 5 August. After a five-month absence from real racing, the Formula E championship was back with a special six-race finale in the German capital of Berlin. Six races held at the iconic Tempelhof airport over the course of nine days to crown one champion. Ahead of the first race, it was all still to play for. All but a few of the 24 drivers and 12 teams had a shot at winning a championship title. Unlike other racing series, Formula E is anything but predictable. In what was nothing short of a motorsport marathon for all involved, the spectatorless track took shape on the apron section of the former airport in the suburbs of Berlin. Admitting that he had never ever felt so prepared to finally finish the championship fight, da Costa defied the odds in the first race, collecting every available point after securing the win and scooping up the fastest lap time in the process. Despite the disruption to the season, the Portuguese driver was back – and better than ever before. In contrast to the five other seasons he’d endured during his Formula E career thus far, da Costa looked to be finally in with a shot at the top spot. All that stood in his way was a healthy selection of top driving talent from the likes of Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Nissan and Jaguar, to name but a few, and five more rounds of wheel-to-wheel racing. While other drivers would battle to keep complacency at bay in a similar position, da Costa’s longing for his first championship title had been bubbling away for just short of six years. His focus was clear. Nothing would stand in his way and, as the championship neared its conclusion, his chances only grew stronger.

Gradually, his main opponents fell by the wayside after a second consecutive victory extended his lead. For a man who had been confined to the back of the pack only a few seasons ago, an unsuspecting champion was emerging from the wilderness. Another dominant drive followed, which resulted in a fourth-place finish, meaning da Costa found himself within reach of the title two rounds early. Everything he’d fought for throughout his 20-year racing career boiled down to that race, which saw him cross the line close behind his teammate – and former champion – Vergne in an epic one-two finish. Having grafted through some dark years in the series, da Costa was finally rewarded with the ultimate prize champion status. “I have no words; just the bad times come to my mind,” he said, in an emotional post-race interview. “I was so close to giving up… thank you DS Techeetah for bringing me the best chance of my life.” In a year of uncertainty and chaos, an unusual season yielded an extraordinary result. At the start of the year, few could have predicted the impact of recent events on life as we knew it. And, in the world of motorsport, no one would have expected da Costa would be crowned the series’ champion. While the affable Portuguese driver finally made his mark, his victory and the unique circumstances surrounding it are testament to the all-electric race series’ unrelenting ability t surprise. With an all-new season starting in 2021, time will tell how the sport will adapt to the ‘new normal’. But despite the uncertain times, one thing is clear: Formula E looks likely to be as unpredictable as ever. fiaformulae.com 34


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didn’t quench Natalie Campbell’s entrepreneurial fire or drive for inclusion. Diversity and philanthropy are still top of her agenda and can, she says, drive business to better heights

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Words: Lysanne Currie

Rivers of change

Becoming a CEO in the middle of a pandemic


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SOCIAL ENTREPRENEURSHIP IS THE WAY

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atalie Campbell became CEO of ethical bottled water company Belu in March 2020. Three weeks later, Britain’s Covid-19 lockdown officially kicked in. As Natalie says, “I was pretty much faced with taking on a business that was very profitable, to then wondering if we’d even make any sales that month.” But Belu, which donates 100% of its profits to WaterAid (inset), and has helped transform around 334,000 lives with clean water, is still here. And so, too, is its CEO: a fighter and true entrepreneurial spirit. Campbell ( far right) was just 15 when she decided she wanted to be a CEO. “As a young person, when you make that sort of decision, you do everything you can to work towards it,” she says, adding that young people, generally, are inspiring. “They’ve got the whole world and their futures ahead of them. Although they’re living in challenging times, they are persevering, they are campaigning, they are activists, and they are starting businesses.” Back then, what she really craved was freedom; the sort of autonomy her favourite hip-hop artists enjoyed. “No one told them what to do. Puff Daddy would be like, ‘I’m the CEO of Bad Boy records,’ and I’d think: ‘Cool, if that’s what a CEO does, I want a bit of that.’ That was the initial spark,” she says. “If you’re crazy enough at 15 to want to be a CEO, and then at 19 start your own business, and at 21 open a retail franchise in your last year at university, you kind of just run through challenges like they don’t exist.” No obstacle was too large. If anyone told her ‘No’, she’d return with 10 reasons why it was a ‘Yes’. So, by the time she was 20, Campbell had managed to secure a £100k bank loan. Oh, and joined her first board at 23. Having decided on her path early on, Campbell maintains that “the life I have now, I feel, is by design. There is a lot of serendipity, but no coincidences.” Becoming a leader during a global pandemic can’t be anybody’s idea of a grand plan – but she’s risen to the challenge. “I said to the team ‘With the whole world slowing down, what we now have is the gift of time’.” The resulting sense of community, and a shift in thinking about the role of business in society, imbued the project with the sort of optimism and can-do attitude she clearly displayed from the start. Campbell’s first few months were spent considering strategy, reorganising the team internally, and “really

BUSINESSES SHOULD BE BUILT

getting to grips with our own culture and the way we want to work as a remote team… There are days when it’s fun and I bounce out of bed, and there are others where I think: ‘What the hell am I doing?’ It just depends on any given moment, but that’s the nature of being an entrepreneur: being comfortable with failure has to be part of your DNA.” Likewise, “thinking about the why, the feeling, and the heart… it’s about doing no harm to the planet or to society, or across the supply chain. It’s not about how present you are, it’s about what you achieve.” Although she freely admits to liking making money (“I don’t have a problem with capitalism”), she does have a problem with greed. “For me, social entrepreneurship is the way businesses should be built, where there is no tension; that there is harmony between making money and doing good; you can do both.” Business, she thinks, also needs to do more than just pay lip-service to diversity. “I’ve been through life pretty much ignoring any elements of challenge 38

that might come from being a young, workingclass black woman, because they’re irrelevant to where I’m going. But, since hitting 30, I’m now comfortable enough to say, ‘Why am I the only black person in the room?’ to whomever is hosting an event or roundtable. “As with any issue that business struggles to get its head around, you need people to intrinsically understand it, to feel it emotionally, but also understand the practical reasons why [change] is better for their business. I don’t think people automatically understand why diversity is better for their business, but you can see the performance metrics that change when you have a more inclusive organisation. “I think there are lots of black people that managed to get through their career not talking about it. We’re in a very different place now and it’s a good thing: I’m now waiting to see the actions.” belu.org

Social action: Belu donates 100% of its profits to WaterAid (©Belu)


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A world away Autumn escapes once meant jetting off to the Maldives or island-hopping off the Mediterranean coast but, in 2020, even the most exclusive travel plans can become scuppered at a moment’s notice. For those craving a luxurious break without the inconvenience of possible quarantine, there is another option: the English staycation has just raised its game‌


TRAVEL

Burgh Island Hotel


ROMAN HOLIDAY | THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA HOTEL, BATH A five-star residence converted from two Grade II listed buildings in the centre of Bath Spa, The Gainsborough is the only hotel to offer private direct access to Bath’s mineral-rich thermal spring waters (right). The spa’s renovation – painstakingly preserving the Unesco world heritage complex – was completed in 2017, creating a grand temple of wellness inspired by the building’s Roman history and flooded with natural light. The Gainsborough’s Georgian façade intact, the interior is dressed by New York designer Alexandra Champalimaud (known for designing The Dorchester), and exudes elegance, while its rooms and suites are packed with amenities. For more privacy, the hotel’s adjacent Townhouse is spread over four floors and sleeps up to five. The hotel’s restaurant is helmed by chef Dan Moon, who focuses on local produce and international flavour for a perfect post-splash lunch. thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk

COASTAL COOL | BURGH ISLAND HOTEL, SOUTH DEVON This spectacular art deco landmark resides on its own private tidal island, surrounded by golden beaches and silver seas. Its position off the Devonian coast, near the surfing beaches of Bigbury and Bantham, means no two days on Burgh Island are the same, drifting from calm seas to raw storms that only enhance its dramatic beauty. The hotel has 25 suites and a beach house (bottom left) – where Agatha Christie wrote two novels – in addition to a spa and sauna, games rooms and seawater pool. Dine at the Nettlefold Restaurant or breakfast at the Seaside Terrace; head to the Captain’s Cabin for private dining, and enjoy drinks at the Palm Court Bar (left) before live music in the Grand Ballroom. The island (which can be hired out for exclusive events) is also home to the Pilchard Inn, dating back to 1336 and steeped in tales of pirates, smugglers and, of course, pilchard fishing. The eco-friendly hotel has been painstakingly restored to its 1930s glory and is known for housing some of the most significant original art deco pieces of the era. Notable past guests include Noel Coward, Edward VII and Wallis Simpson, aviator Amy Johnson and The Beatles. burghisland.com

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ROYAL RESIDENCE | THE MITRE HAMPTON COURT, SURREY First built in 1665, The Mitre has long been a stopping place for Hampton Court visitors. Now owned by new luxury hotel group Signet Collection – founded by restaurateur-turnedhotelier Hector Ross – and following an extensive renovation, The Mitre has opened its doors to a new chapter. Nicola Harding’s stylish interiors provide a refreshed, modern and slightly eccentric touch to both public spaces and 36 guest rooms – her inspiration is described as “Wind-in-the-Willows does Henley Regatta”. The 1665 Riverside Brasserie, with its majestic centrepiece bar and al fresco terrace overlooking the Thames, is the perfect lunch or dinner spot, while the hotel’s second restaurant, Coppernose (top, inspired by Henry VIII’s frugal nickname), is an all-day café and wine bar. Guests can enjoy private events space in the Orangery, a riverside terrace with the world’s first Whispering Angel wine concession, sumptuous riverside picnic hampers and, of course, a suitable quirky take on afternoon tea. The perfect starting point for exploring the country’s royal heritage. mitrehamptoncourt.com

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GOURMET GETAWAY | GRANTLEY HALL, YORKSHIRE A hidden jewel in the expansive Yorkshire Dales, Grantley Hall is a 47-bedroom estate designed for relaxation. The Three Graces Spa and Elite gym provide an escape to tranquility and wellness, with state-of-the-art facilities and indulgent treatment options. But it is Grantley’s culinary journey that’s sure to excite, with four restaurants, from fine dining to pan-Asian, and three bars to choose from. Grantley Hall’s newest venture is a tasting experience by the venue’s Michelinstar restaurant, Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall. Using vegetables and herbs grown in the hotel’s kitchen ggarden (top), and locally sourced ingredients from hand-picked suppliers, chef Rankin’s exclusive new menu ‘A Taste of Home’ takes gastronomes on a 10-course journey through the countryside – with a perfectly paired selection of wines curated by the hotel’s head sommelier. For ultra exclusivity, reserve the Chef ’s Table for an even deeper understanding of the talented chef ’s local inspirations. grantleyhall.co.uk

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PRIME PAMPERING | HAMPTON MANOR, MIDLANDS This family-run 45-acre house was built in 1855, once the estate of former Prime Minister Sir Robert Peel. Chef Rob Palmer’s menu at Peel’s Restaurant (below) is inspired by the estate’s Victorian walled garden, with local ingredients complemented by handcrafted English wines, while the manor’s new Smoke Restaurant is a rustic smokehouse – request a greenhouse table for a candlelit dinner under the vines. All perfect for exploring the sensory delights of Hampton Manor’s Michelin-star gastronomy. In the afternoons, enjoy a spa treatment before your al fresco traditional tea in the Nyetimber Pop Up Summer House, with blooms and foliage inspired by William Morris’ The Strawberry Thief. Oenophiles can enjoy a complimentary wine tasting with owners James and Fjona Hill, or linger by the fire in The Parlour and Fred’s Bar. With maximum capacity of just 38 guests, Hampton Manor is a delicious escape. hamptonmanor.com

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SCANDALOUS SOPHISTICATION | CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE Steeped in history – and a healthy dose of scandal – Cliveden House was once best known as the setting for the infamous Profumo Affair. A stately home set in 376 acres of stunning woodland in Berkshire, just a stone’s throw from central London, the estate started life in 1666 as the 2nd Duke of Buckingham’s hunting lodge, and was where the notorious rake, schemer and wit entertained his mistress and friends. The house has retained its reputation for exquisite hospitality, playing host to virtually every monarch since George I until it was bought by William Waldorf Astor – then America’s richest man – and opened as a hotel in 1985. Each of its 47 rooms and 15 suites is named after the eminent personalities who have played a part in the house’s illustrious history. The house oozes character and intrigue, with immaculate gardens, a pool, spa and gym. With an ornate French dining room, a snug library serving signature cocktails and the Astor Grill restaurant to choose from, food and drink is high on the agenda. Fit for families, dog lovers or romantic escapes, Cliveden’s majestic setting makes even this most imposing and infamous stately house feel like a home. clivedenhouse.co.uk

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BACK TO NATURE | HARTWELL HOUSE & SPA, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE Once the residence of the exiled Louis XVIII, Hartwell House is one of three historic house hotels that became property of the National Trust in 2008 – the others being Bodysgallen Hall in Llandudno and Middlethorpe Hall in York – and this Grade I listed Jacobean stately home is a world away from city life. Set in 90 acres of gardens and parkland, Hartwell House is located in the Vale of Aylesbury and on the edge of the Chilterns, an area of outstanding natural beauty. The house has 48 rooms – each individually designed with antiques and fine paintings – and The Old Rectory, serving as a private residence for up to seven guests. The main dining room, in the style of 19thcentury architect Sir John Soane, is home to the two-AA rosette restaurant, helmed by executive head chef Daniel Richardson, while Hartwell Spa features an indoor swimming pool, sauna and steam rooms, gym and Hartwell Café – all that is best in country house hospitality and service. hartwell-house.com

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ON YOUR MARQUES… We’re driven to celebrate the classic car shows making their triumphant return to the UK Words: Ross Forbes | Photography: Andrew Green

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lassic car lovers heaved a sigh of relief this September, when the annual Concours of Elegance returned to the grounds of Hampton Court Palace, becoming one of the first major car shows to take place this year after a summer of cancellations. Taking advantage of the late summer warmth and outdoor space, Concours’ annual celebration of the world’s rarest and most beautiful cars saw guests – including Prince Michael of Kent, stars David Gandy ( far right) and Jodie Kidd, and specialists Dylan Miles and Simon Kidtson – attend alongside car owners and enthusiasts from 3-6 September. With sponsors including Charles Heidsieck, Fortnum & Mason, Coworth Park and Bridge of Weir all hosting their usual decadent (albeit necessarily more socially distanced) receptions, guests had a front-row seat for Concours highlights – including a collection of the rarest 60 cars in the world. Among these were the world’s first production Land Rover, the second Ferrari 250 GTO built (top right), a two-tone Jaguar Classics D-Type continuation (and Gandy’s own newly-restored XK120) and, winning the Concours’ Best in Show, the 1970 24 Hours of Le Mans-winning Porsche 917K. This year’s Passion of a Lifetime auction also saw 15 cars up for sale, earning a combined total of more than £38m – more than half of this total accounted for by a trio of 1920s-1930s Bugattis. A 1934 Type 59, which served as a grand prix car, broke records as it sold for £9,535,000. Perhaps even more importantly for the pivotal annual show, it was a chance for

enthusiasts to reunite after a long season of virtual shows having to make do. It followed the successful return of London Concours just two weeks earlier, held at the capital’s Honourable Artillery Company, where the usual convivial atmosphere was perhaps more special than ever as guests explored the legacy of 12 Ferrari Dinos, Great Marques featuring Lamborghini and Aston Martin, and automotive design legend Ian Callum’s personal collection – including his restomodded classic Jaguars. While London Concours took advantage of limited ticket numbers and fresh city air to celebrate the return of the automotive calendar, Salon Privé – held at the historic Blenheim Palace from 23 to 26 September – returned with a determined bang for its 15th edition. Opening with the annual Concours d’Elégance – which attracted a record 93 entries including everything from a 1904 Napier to a 2020 McLaren Senna GTR LM as well as 13 motorcycles – guests were by no means put off by the week’s wet weather as they celebrated 100 years of automotive excellence. Regular events included Boodles Ladies’ Day and Masters Day presented by Pirelli and Lockton. The grand finale of Supercar Saturday featuring the Salon Privé Club Trophy rounded things up, promising that these classic events would always cater to the driving force of the UK’s classic car enthusiasts. concoursofelegance.co.uk; londonconcours.co.uk; salonpriveconcours.com 48


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SPORT

Take your best shot Is there anything more quintessentially British than the traditional game shoot? Tempus explores the unique blend of ancient etiquette and contemporary conservation that has driven this country sport to new and impressive significance

Š Campbells of Beauly

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Country views: Members of a shooting party (left); bespoke shotgun by Holland & Holland (right); both ©Holland & Holland

YOU CAN’T HAVE SHOOTING WITHOUT CONSERVATION.

WILDLIFE FLOURISHES ON

LAND MANAGED BY GAMEKEEPERS

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party of men and women, resplendent in finest tweeds, takes formation upon the bucolic rolling hills of England’s countryside. From the Glorious Twelfth (12 August) that marks the beginning of grouse season to the end of duck and goose on 20 February – with pheasant and partridge squarely in between – Guns (as individuals in the shooting party are known) young and old gather for the traditional game shoot. However, few sports are subject to as much scrutiny as game shooting – particularly in 2020, which has seen tighter regulations enforced as the UK continues to feel the impact of Covid-19. While shooting began the season exempt from the ‘rule of six’, the sport has implemented robust Covid-secure guidelines including social distancing rules, controlled access points, avoiding assisted loading or handling dogs, and enhanced protection for the beating line. Game shooting season is key to many local economies across the UK, from hotels hosting parties during the low season, to the landowners donating game to charities such as the Country Food Trust. Crucially, the sport is also a key player in wildlife conservation. Shooting contributes to the management of wildlife, landscapes and ecosystems on two thirds of the UK’s rural land area, and is a major factor in achieving national targets set by biodiversity action plans. “You can’t have shooting without conservation,” says Steve Bloomfield, executive director of shooting and operations for the British Association of Shooting and Conservation (BASC). “Wildlife, including red and amber-listed species, flourishes on land managed for shooting and we know that wading birds are up to five times more successful on moors managed by gamekeepers. In

addition, birds and butterflies are more diverse and populated in woodlands managed for shooting.” BASC’s Green Shoots conservation programme, launched in 2000, has been endorsed by Natural England, Scottish Natural Heritage, Natural Resources Wales and the Northern Ireland Environment Agency, providing a framework to record what species and habitats of national importance could be found on owners’ land. It has also shown how shooting directly impacts the individuals and businesses that maintain and safeguard the land. “The ‘trickle-down’ effect of shooting on local economies is huge,” Bloomfield says. “Many upland communities depend on grouse shooting to survive. The people who travel there to shoot need somewhere to stay, somewhere to eat and they need essentials. They are putting money into these often economically fragile communities after the tourism season has ended, and are crucial to their survival. “Shooting is worth £2bn to the UK economy every year and supports the equivalent of 74,000 fulltime jobs,” he adds. “The conservation benefits are huge – in the UK, two million hectares are actively managed for conservation as a result of shooting. But, for many, the draw of a country shoot will always be the fulfilling social aspect of testing one’s skills in the great outdoors, with the promise of the freshest organic meal at the end of a day’s efforts.” What’s more, the pageantry of the occasion cannot be understated; shooting parties welcome ladies and gentlemen of all ages and backgrounds, from highly formal shoots attended by experienced Guns dressed in perfectly tailored three-piece tweed, or an informal family event for first-time shooters. 52

AN ELEGANT TRADITION From caring for your shotgun to knowing what to wear, the rules of field etiquette are based upon tradition and fair play. Poaching another Gun’s bird is a firm no, nor should you risk running out of cartridges mid-drive – or spend your time glued to your phone. Make sure to tip the gamekeeper – a general guide is around £20£30 per 100 birds – and thank the beaters at the end of every day. But, ultimately, nothing should come before safety: keep your gun facing upwards at all times, never have a closed gun out of its slip, and check your barrels before loading to ensure there are no blockages. As Bloomfield says: “Respect for your quarry is of paramount importance, along with respect and courtesy for all involved – fellow Guns, the host, the beaters and pickers-up.” As for equipment, a .12 gauge or .20 gauge shotgun are the go-to options for shooting. When buying, it’s best to head into a gunroom for practical advice based on your preferences and budget, as well as tips on everything from firearms certification to transportation and care. Renowned for their traditionally crafted guns, Holland & Holland specialises in exquisite bespoke rifles and guns. “As a gunmaker, we strive to instil values of quality craftsmanship, tradition and innovation into each and every gun we make. The perfect combination of art and functionality,” they say. The key to perfecting your shooting style is to blend in with nature – thus the plethora of greens and browns, with darker neutrals for grouse shooting. More formal shoots will call for a tweed suit, including breeks or trousers, topped with a flat cap. Ladies can wear similar or opt for a fine shooting skirt. Gunmakers Purdeys or Holland & Holland are go-to brands for finely made traditional suits, or head to Scottish Royal Warrant Holders Campbells of Beauly for authentic highland tweed. Great tailoring should allow for a good range of movement for shooting, pockets large enough for cartridges, and still look razor sharp. Accessorise with a good pair of walking boots, cartridge bag and ear defenders and you’ll be ready to take aim.


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AHEAD OF THE GAME

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achel Carrie is one of Britain’s top game shooters and advocates for ethically reared, organically sourced game produce. As well as being a crack shot and familiar face on television, Carrie has now released her first cookbook, Game & Gatherings, sharing her favourite fieldto-fork recipes. Here, she tells Tempus why getting back to nature is the most ethical and environmentally friendly way to enjoy a gourmet meal. What inspired your passion for hunting? I had quite an unconventional upbringing. My dad set up a scrap metal business in the early 1990s, buying a small site set in an old quarry in a rural village. My parents raised my brother, sister and me in a portable cabin, in 11 acres of woods and farmland. We were always outdoors – working ferrets, ratting terriers and a Harris hawk – and my dad would take me rabbiting, which is where my understanding of ‘field to fork’ food came from. I was skinning and butchering rabbits at eight years old, so it’s always been just a natural concept to me and something that’s stayed with me throughout my life. Your cookbook, Game & Gatherings, is packed with seasonal recipes. What are some of your favourites? Game & Gatherings is available now from Fieldsports Emporium online and includes a huge range of recipes to suit the diversity of all the game featured. Personally I love pigeon, so my favourite recipes are the pigeon pithivier and pigeon poppers. How did you become a field-to-fork advocate? It’s difficult not to be an advocate for naturally reared livestock when you compare them, nutritionally and ethically, to factory-farmed meat. Venison is up to 50% lower in fat and higher in protein, vitamins and minerals compared to beef. Partridge, pheasant, grouse and pigeon are all leaner and higher in protein than chicken. More importantly, wild deer and game birds live a truly free-range life and will never experience an abattoir or factory farming. Why are conservation and shooting so intertwined? Without conservation there can be no shooting. An unsustainable use of natural resources makes no sense to people who derive their enjoyment, livelihoods and food from a fruitful environment. Hunters value natural resources because we rely on them, and must enjoy nature sustainably to continue that. Equally, as an environmental impact assessor by profession, I’ve studied the environmental impact of unculled deer populations – they devastate the habitats of other species. Similarly, game shooting estates provide habitat that has otherwise been lost to modern agriculture, increasing biodiversity and higher success rates for rare species of birds, such as hen harriers, curlews, and lapwings. We’ve seen even better results from breeding programmes on shooting estates than on RSPB reserves. The data doesn’t lie. How important is it for consumers to understand where our meat comes from? You only have to look at the horse meat scandal for your answer. As consumers, we trust food manufacturers and supermarkets to share our ethics and forget that they are businesses – and so better regulation is needed to prevent brands from green-washing or misleading consumers. Game is a small cog in a big machine, but we can still vote with our feet when it comes to demanding ethical options for everyone. We can lobby for sustainable British produce and higher standards of food production, as well as making small choices that reflect our desire for sustainable production and a healthy environment. rachelcarrie.com

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“Be positive – and drink champagne!” Despite being the world’s first champagne house, Maison Ruinart is not one to stand on tradition. In a toast to its latest ‘carte blanche’ contemporary art collaboration, we speak to the maison’s CEO Frédéric Dufour and British artist David Shrigley to find out how they keep the fizz alive

Words: Michelle Johnson

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friendly, implementing sustainable practices from vineyard to final product. Its Second Skin packaging, launched this year, is the result of a two-year collaboration with the James Cropper and Pusterla 1880. The result is an entirely recyclable sleeve that is nine times lighter and has a 60% reduction in carbon footprint compared to previous giftboxes. Ruinart’s sustainable ambitions are now a key part of its long-held association with the arts, which began in in 1896 with Czech artist Alphonse Mucha’s famous poster. As well as supporting global art fairs, every year the brand invites a contemporary artist to share their vision of Ruinart – 2020 has seen British artist David Shrigley create an exhibition of 42 artworks entitled Unconventional Bubbles, an irreverant and colourful ensemble of 36 drawings and acrylics (right), three neons, two ceramics and – rather brilliantly – one door. Here, we speak to Ruinart CEO and president Frédéric Dufour and David Shrigley to find out what’s next for the world’s oldest, and most contemporary, champagne house. »

stablished in 1729, Maison Ruinart is the world’s very first champagne house. With its flagship Ruinart Blanc de Blancs vintage based on the original production created by Nicholas Ruinart, it would be easy to assume the brand’s approach would remain as timeless as its champagne Instead, the maison is the original innovator in the world of sparkling wine – an ethos that has become more important than ever as it prepares to celebrate its 300-year anniversary in 2029. Founded in Reims less than a year after Louis XV authorised the transport of wine in bottles in 1728, the maison remains loyal to its roots, its modern bottle still inspired by that first novelty. In 1764, Ruinart became the first maison to release a rosé champagne; Four years later, it acquired its famed chalk crayéres – among the largest in the region at 38m deep and 8km long and now a Unesco world heritage site – which naturally keeps aging vintages at a cool 12C (54F). In this century, Ruinart has been dedicated to making its viticulture more environmentally

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Frédéric Dufour Frédéric, what excites you most about Ruinart as a brand? What’s impressive about Ruinart is that the house has always maintained its vision of excellence, know-how and innovation to remain perpetually contemporary. We’re very proud of continuing this history that started in the 18th century, including our strong commitment to the arts. Ruinart has a long tradition of supporting contemporary artists, in particular… The Ruinart family was a family of art collectors and this could be felt in their brand projects. As the first established champagne house, creativity and new talents are key to ensuring we stay modern. For example we have partnered with NEW INC, the artistic incubator of the New Museum in New York and launched the Maison Ruinart Photography Prize in 2018, offering an artistic residency to an emerging photographer. In the last decade, we’ve worked with numerous talented artists including Liu Bolin, who has a deep commitment to the environment and strong human values; Vik Muniz, a Brazilian artist who uses illusions to raise our awareness about environmental and social issues as well as craftmanship; and, now, British artist David Shrigley, who is our ‘carte blanche’ artist of 2020. What was your reaction to David Shrigley’s collection, Unconventional Bubbles? David is a great British creative whose work evokes an almost irreverant vibe – he is a witty artist processing the contemporary world through incomparable irony. His art shines a new light upon climate change and the vineyards, the heritage and the savoir-faire of the maison. While visiting Champagne he roamed among the vines, explored the cellars, noted each expression and gesture. I must say, he surprised all of us very much when he proposed to carve unconventional sculptures in our cellars on top of the other artworks he created for the maison. What are your priorities as Ruinart’s 300th anniversary approaches? Maison Ruinart’s biggest concern has always been nature and sustainability, and this has accelerated in the past 10 years with the implementation of a global practice of sustainable initiatives including eco-design – where our in-house environmental performance index measures the impact of all our projects. Since 2015, the maison has been innovating our packaging. First, we launched a 50g lighter giftbox that, at the time, saved more than 200

tons of paper. That same year, we removed all forms of plastic wrapping, eliminating some additional 26 tons. Building on this pioneering spirit, the maison has now developed an ecoresponsible ultra-light case – the Second Skin – crafted from natural wood fibers sourced from sustainably managed European forests, which is easily and fully recyclable. How important is sustainability in the wider Champagne community? Climate change is already happening in the vineyards. Champagne’s terroir is the source of our wines’ excellence, and so we have a responsibility to protect and preserve this natural environment. At Ruinart’s site in Reims, 98.7% of all waste is recycled and all byproducts of the vinification process are 100% recycled. Regarding small producers, we’ve had long-term partnership with them to buy their best grapes. We help them to develop their sustainable practices and to obtain certifications. Our wish is to open up a dialogue with the wider public and help both industry behaviour and consumer behaviour evolve. What’s next for Ruinart? Before embarking on our fourth century, Maison Ruinart has the bold ambition to become the most conscious champagne house, in terms of social and environmental issues. That means becoming both a leader and a source of inspiration. For us, one of the keys to achieving this ambition is to find a way of bringing art and sustainability together, by commissioning a new artistic or architectural project each year in Reims that integrates sustainability into its innovation and creativity. This began in September 2019 with an immersive installation created by the Mouawad Laurier duo, who achieve surprising results by sustainably combining data, artificial intelligence and the living world with art. »

CREATIVITY IS KEY TO

ENSURING RUINART STAYS MODERN – Frédéric Dufour

Staying modern: Ruinart’s famous Crayéres (this page) and (right) champagne photographed by fine art photographer Elsa Leydier 58


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David Shrigley David, tell us about your experience working with Ruinart? I have always wanted to do a job where I am compelled to drink champagne, so I’m happy at last. I visited Maison Ruinart twice in 2019; I explored the vineyards and cellars, observed those who work there, and had a special moment with cellar master Frédéric Panaïotis. I went everywhere and saw everything to get a flavour of the place – literally and metaphorically. My second visit is when I carved many artworks on the chalk walls of the maison’s cellars. How did you come to create Unconventional Bubbles? My art is impish and curiosity-driven. I take viewers on an enlightening yet playful journey of champagne production and consumption. Concurrently, I wanted to reveal the environmental challenges that motivate and drive Maison Ruinart on a daily basis. The artworks were created in my studio in Brighton during summer 2019. As the project is a ‘carte blanche’ commission, I wanted to answer a single question: what is the hidden life behind the development of this unique beverage, contained in an iconic bottle? I am deeply touched by environmental causes; I don’t eat meat and I support many charities. I wanted to highlight the entire champagne-making process but also the environment surrounding it, in order to raise people’s awareness.

Why are humour and satire so central to your work? Humour, sometimes dark or absurd, is clearly an element of tension in a lot of my artworks. People tend to see it as typically British humour. For me, it’s a way to question a reality or a given situation and reflect on what I hear and see. Years ago, I was always keen to stress the work was incidentally funny; that I was trying to be profound and comedy was just a facet. I’ve come to realise that comedy is very important – it’s special, sublime, nebulous. I believe the contemporary art world needs this shot of humour. How do you balance art-world success with public popularity? It’s not a conscious balance. Art is not the creation of something new, but the creation of connections between things that already exist. I draw my inspiration from moments of life and interaction between people. As a result, I think that many people come to understand and grasp what I convey in my work. What are your plans for 2021? To continue to immerse myself in the world around me and pass on messages because, as an artist, I have a bigger voice than most people do. So, I will continue to say what I think and to encourage positivity. It’s easy to be negative in these dark times but I’ve decided to be positive – and drink more champagne!

What was the most surprising aspect of your discoveries? One of the most memorable moments for me was meeting with Frédéric Panaïotis. He made me consider how our experience of life is affected by what we talk and think about; tasting the wine while listening Frédéric describe it really changed my perception. It also made me think about how unique his job is; the nose of the cellar master is like the eye of an artist.

THE NOSE OF THE CELLAR MASTER IS LIKE THE EYE OF THE ARTIST – David Shrigley

Carte blanche: David Shrigley with Frédéric Dufour (left); Second Skin (top); works from Unconventional Bubbles (this page)

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TOUR DE FORCE In this exclusive photo story, we’re driven to discover whether McLaren’s superlight GT can match style with comfort on a road trip to the heart of Scotland… Words: Nick Hendrix | Photography: Michael Shelford


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s I walked through the spotless glass doors of the McLaren Technology Centre in Woking, I was greeted by Amanda. Assuming she was an employee of the famed marque, I gratefully followed her on a tour of the facility that had been arranged for me prior to collection of the gleaming supercar waiting for me out front. Amanda did indeed give me the tour. She did indeed work for McLaren. But this was not Amanda from McLaren – this was Amanda McLaren, daughter of the late, great Formula 1 World Champion racing driver and engineer Bruce Leslie McLaren, who founded his eponymous company in 1963. My foot was in my mouth. All road trips should begin like this. After my sycophantic wailing had passed, I slipped into the sumptuous cream leather interior of McLaren’s latest supercar – the superlight GT. This is the marque’s first proper try at a grand tourer, promising comfort, accessibility and space for two, plus the requisite set of golf clubs. The British automotive brand has always prided itself on technologically brilliant supercars with lap times that bring each release to the top of the shopping list. But can it manufacture a car that retains that capable underbelly, while still being it a pleasant place to travel for six hours on the motorway followed by the winding B-roads of the British countryside? » DRIVING HERITAGE

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Historic Glasgow was once the beating heart of industrial Scotland and is now a cosmopolitan destination of culture. Bruce McLaren, although originally arriving from New Zealand (a slightly less plausible road trip than the one we had planned) had his roots in bonny Scotland, so it felt fitting to drive his company’s latest creation from McLaren’s HQ to the original northern powerhouse to see if it could really tick the boxes of the best grand tourers. I collected my trusty photographer Michael Shelford somewhere off the M1, where he spent about 20 minutes trying to figure out how to open the doors (I was tempted to mock his automotive inexperience before he reminded me of my attempts to take a photo with the lens cap on). McLaren’s design team – sticking with their famous dihedral (or butterfly) doors for full drama – has secreted the door handle so beautifully that it does take a minute to figure it out. Once both doors were fully open in their peacocking glory, the GT was dubbed a Transformer thanks to its wing-like spread. The most noticeable thing about this car is how easy it is to drive. Although the back half could be

mistaken for the love child of a basking shark and a fighter jet, the cockpit sits well forward, so the car feels small and nimble – until you catch its vast flank in the wing mirror, that is. The GT’s 4ltr V8 engine has roughly the same horsepower as two Audi S3s, and I’m pretty sure you could park them both in the GT’s side intakes. With a mind to celebrate the best of British during our weekend trip, we ducked off the M1 into the lush Yorkshire Dales where the twin turbo was effortless on the bendy roads. Although not quite as historic as the medieval dry-stone walls of the Dales, McLaren is the second oldest F1 team (after Ferrari) and the most recognisably British. Just as this iconic farmland remains intact so does the integrity of the McLaren name: 35 years since the innovative racing brand first started engineering road cars, the company has managed to avoid diluting its range with a litany of models or introducing fads such as the dreaded supercar SUV. Instead, outside of the GT, there are three main styles of manufacture – the sports series, super series and ultimate series – with varying performancebased iterations. » 66


A grand tour: Nick Hendrix takes the McLaren GT from the brand's Woking HQ to historic Glasgow 67


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SPEED RARE DESIGN Before long we were ejecting ourselves north towards Scotland, where I soon found that part of a McLaren’s appeal is its rarity. Upon arrival at the stately Kimpton Blythswood Square Hotel in imperious Glasgow, I enjoyed watching heads turn at the sight and sound of this striking supercar – but enjoyed people’s attempts to identify it even more. It’s bright amaranth red colour was little help, as the layman reached for Maserati or Ferrari; however, when a car enthusiast came along, they recognised it as a McLaren, but had no idea which one. Aside from the iconic F1 (and, later, the P1), it seems the McLaren engineers’ extreme pride in their technical prowess has bled quite noticeably into the naming department. McLaren’s catalogue is a tidal wave of numbers: 720, 675, 570, 520, 765, 600. So, when a keen petrolhead enquired as to which Mclaren it was, I could sense their relief when I simply said, ‘the GT’. As night settled in, and with the GT safely parked, we managed to reach the hotel bar just in time to review the day’s drive over a last order of negronis. Generally, a gushing report: however, we did note a couple of quirks hidden beneath this car’s glamourous exterior. Although the car’s smart technology is dripping in intelligence, the reversing camera became easily obscured the moment we turned the steering wheel. Elsewhere, the controls for the electric seat were impossible to see, so it was very much a ‘press and guess’ situation. However, it also has more storage than you’d expect from a racer – while a supercar usually has enough space for half a sandwich and a fruit pastille (so, admittedly, the bar is pretty low) the GT’s front boot is large and the space over the engine, although oddly shaped, is decent for a supercar. You could get overnight bags and/or your Callaways in, though I’m not sure a great deal more. The next morning, well rested and full of eggs Benedict, Michael and I blasted off into the surrounding Scottish countryside to ponder the central question: is this beautiful car a true grand tourer, or a racer in GT’s clothing? Well, it has certainly retained McLaren’s trademark powerful physique; every time I dropped down a gear, the riotous exhaust threatened Armageddon. And it is certainly somewhere I’d happily spend prolonged periods of time, but perhaps we’re missing the point – with a car as extraordinary as this, what does it matter? Mclaren.com With thanks to: DRIVEN (@therealdriven); Belstaff; Kimpton Blythswood Square Hotel

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Panerai Luminor Marina DMLSTM 70


MATERIAL WORLD From its origins as a military watchmaker, Panerai has become the vanguard of inventive and sustainable horology. CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué tells us why it’s time to make a difference Words: Michelle Johnson

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s luxury watchmakers go, ItalianSwiss brand Panerai is still seen as something of a new kid on the block. Although Panerai was founded in Florence in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai – his shop on the Ponte alle Grazie served as the city’s first ever watchmaking school – the brand near exclusively supplied the Italian Royal Navy with high-precision instruments and diving watches until 1993. Among the brand’s early patents was the 1916 radium-based luminosity, Radiomir, a precursor of today’s Luminor. In 1993, Officine Panerai presented its first collection of three limited-edition series to the public – the Luminor (the brand’s best-selling model to this day), the Luminor Marina and the Mare Nostrum – and, four years later, it was acquired by the Richemont Group and finally made its debut on the international fine watchmaking market. “When Panerai launched commercially in 1997, we were very new to the world of big Swiss watchmakers, but we soon attracted an audience of the true purists,” says CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué. “The beauty of a brand like Panerai is that the product is the hero. We have such strong concepts 71

in each line that we have the freedom to think creatively with our approach.” Today’s Panerai customer is a mix of the old guard and a younger generation split nearly evenly, Pontroué says, between the West and Asia. And, while the masculine, military-style brand still predominantly attracts men, 30% of its Chinese customers are women, reflecting the rapidly changing trends within the luxury sphere. Panerai has also seen a boom in online interest, particularly during the Covid-19 pandemic, and responded by releasing the sell-out online-only Submersible Azzurro – first limited to 200 pieces but increased to 500 to satisfy customer demand. “Our biggest challenge over the past two years, since I joined Panerai, has been how to capture the future of the luxury landscape,” he says. “How should we interact with both a new generation of customers and existing customers, and ensure that we are reinvigorating our own niche while creating an emotional impact in all we do?” The answer, it seems, is actually three-fold: cutting-edge development, unique experiences, and an authentic dedication to the environmental cause. »


NEXT-GEN NOVELTIES Panerai’s reputation for invention is well-earned and has grown ever more impressive in recent years. In addition to patenting numerous in-house movements, the brand has created four new materials, developed by Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee. BMG-Tech is a metallic glass offering extreme resistance; Carbotech is a carbon fibre composite with unrivalled technical performance and matt black appearance; Ceramica, a synthetic ceramic based on zirconium oxide powder, has proven five-times harder than stainless steel; and Composite, the result of an electrochemical ceramisation process of aluminium, is extraordinarily scratchresistant and lightweight. This year, to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Luminor, Panerai has released a “firework of innovations” by fusing many of these materials and more with the best-selling model. Novelties for 2020 include the Luminor Marina in a 44mm micro-sandblasted titanium case, the Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm and Luminor Marina Fibratech 44 mm with a range of dials. “What we try to do is create the next generation of watchmaking materials; how do we make the watches more lightweight, or scratch-resistant for extreme sports? How do we solve our customers' problems in a way that’s never been done before?” asks Pontroué. That final question – “how can we be the first?” – is one of the driving forces of his leadership. “Everybody remembers the winner of the Tour de France, but you never remember who comes second,” he says. “When Panerai launched, it was with these large, militarystyle watches that were completely different to the trendy, small watches of 1997. We ignored the trends. Instead, we were the first to offer 70-year guarantee, the first to offer new materials, and the first to offer ambassador experiences.” TM

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WE WANT TO CREATE THE NEXT GENERATION OF WATCHMAKING MATERIALS Time and technology: Jean-Marc Pontroué (right) introduces Panerai novelties including (clockwise, far right) the EcoPangaea Mike Horn edition, Luminor Marina Goldtech, Luminor Marina FibratechTM and Luminor Marina 44mm

EXTREME EXPERIENCES These exclusive experiences are the second rung of Panerai’s master plan. At 2018’s SIHH (now Watches & Wonders) the brand launched three bespoke buyers’ events for its Submersible novelties, hosted by brand ambassadors. Far from a shopping spree or island getaway, Panerai looked to push the limit of what a luxury brand could achieve for its clients. Thus, last summer, buyers of the 33 limited-edition Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech took part in a training exercise with serving members of the COMSUBIN – the Italian Navy’s special forces. In September, free diving champion Guillaume Néry hosted the 15 buyers of his Panerai Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry Edition on an ocean exploration in French Polynesia. Artic explorer Mike Horn is set to take owners of the Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Edition 47mm on a North Pole expedition in March 2021. “The beauty of being a lifestyle brand is that you can offer so much more to your clients. The programme has been very well received, and we will have eight more experiences in 2021-22,” reveals Pontroué. “The experience depends on offering an extremely limited-edition novelty, paired with our ambassadors’ ability to produce something completely unique. “Of course, when we first broached the idea with the Italian Navy that we wanted to offer our buyers an authentic training experience, they thought we were nuts,” he laughs. “They were fantastic at balancing real training with the more experiential side of things – so our guests might suffer, but they’re still having fun.” As for the final stage of his revolutionary strategy, Pontroué has developed the greatest challenge yet for his talented watchmakers – the creation of a 100% recycled timepiece, with development of the dial, case, straps and movements already underway. “We’re so used to pollution in our cities, – whether London, Geneva or Milan – but when you speak with a guy like Mike Horn, whose expeditions have taken him to the furthest reaches of the Arctic where few people will ever have a chance to go, and you hear that, even there, the environment is deteriorating… You realise how urgent the problem really is,” he says. “I believe Panerai must contribute to solving this problem, and I hope our developments will be good for many industries. “In the future, I can see every product we buy containing information on the level of recycled material within it. This will be as fundamental as the words ‘Swiss Made’ on a watch.” panerai.com

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A taste of glamour Tempus visits the Venice International Film Festival with Oeno Group, to drink in the city’s magic and the romance of fine wines Words: Freddy Clode

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here better to fall in love than Venice? A city famous for its romance, built on a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea; at once solid and liquid, air and stone, yet constantly permeating the utmost elegance and charming the spirits of all those who are lucky enough to float through. However, on this trip I am not to fall in love with Shakespeare’s Venetian heroines Portia (The Merchant of Venice) or Desdemona (Othello). Instead, I’m to begin a whirlwind affair with fine wine, with wine investment and hospitality group Oeno – aided by the perspicacious teachings of Italy’s renowned burgundy master Armando Castagno and against the backdrop of the glamorous Venice International Film Festival. Oeno’s Fuorimostra Gala was held on 12 September, featuring an auction to benefit Venetian businesses struggling due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The event was hosted at the Casinò di Venezia, where Oeno’s founder, Daniel Carnio, offered a private tour of the wine cellar to reveal an exceptional collection of vintages before the gala commenced. In the casino’s 17th-century dining room (right), overlooking Venice’s Grand Canal, Castagno led guests on a tour through the wine list as we basked in the early evening sunshine. We began with four blockbuster Italian wines – Giuseppe Quintarelli ‘Alzero’ 1995, Tenuta di Trinoro 1998, Montevertine ‘Il Sodaccio’ 1985 and GAJA Sorì San Lorenzo 1985 – which were all divinely complex and delicious. Although educated by the wise words of Castagno, one would need to be a master of wine to properly

convey the subtleties of that sublime quartet. However, I can confidently say that one wine had powers beyond the realms of possibility of anything I had ever tasted: The Château Margaux 1990. Awarded 100 points by famed wine critic Robert Parker, this vintage owes its unique qualities to the genius of the château’s terroir as well as the passionate work of successive generations. Since the 17th century, Château Margaux has been celebrated for its production and, aging over the last 30 years, this bottle has developed an aromatic complexity and remarkable presence on the palate that results in absolute elegance. With our tastebuds tingling, we headed to the casino’s garden to taste yet more fine Italian wines from the OenoFuture portfolio – including wines from Bibi Graetz, Rocca di Frassinello, Castellare di Castellina and Poderi Gianni Gagliardo – paired with sublime local cicchetti plates of baccalà mantecato, risotto with cuttlefish, beef carpaccio and, my favourite, folpeto; a tiny boiled fresh octopus seasoned with extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. A UNIQUE VINTAGE Carnio, a Michelin-star sommelier and serial wine investor, founded Oeno in 2015. Today, the group comprises three divisions, OenoFuture, OenoTrade and OenoHouse. Wine expert Carnio’s aim was to connect a deeply divided industry by creating a controlled climate where traders, investors, merchants and vineyard owners could all seamlessly connect under one virtual roof. 74

Inspired by the success of such innovative trading platforms as Robinhood in the US, which reinvented the wheel for buying and selling stocks, Carnio is passionate about converting a wide range of clientele to the benefits of investing and trading in wine. This, Carnio says, has been particularly important in recent months, with the effects of Covid-19 on traditional commodities, as investors have turned to the safer haven of fine wines, benefiting from tax exemptions across Europe. This new way of thinking is just one of the reasons Oeno was awarded Fine Wine Investment Company of the Year at The European’s Global Business & Finance Awards 2019 and 2020. In addition to capturing a market of individual oenophiles, Carnio’s OenoHouse division partners with high-end restaurants and bars. The brand’s next move is to open the first OenoHouse Boutique later this year – and, excitingly for British oenophiles, this concept will be launched at The Royal Exchange, London. The excitement doesn’t stop there for Carnio and his team: while they continue to expand across Europe and Asia, they’ve also opened their first US office in New York. The next development is a mobile app, in partnership with Apple, which will allow customers to track the performance of their wine portfolio and monitor the industry in real time, ensuring the brand’s tradition of market clarity is as robust as its collection of fine wines. oenogroup.com


INDULGE

ONLY A MASTER OF WINE COULD

PROPERLY CONVEY THE SUBTLETIES

OF THIS SUBLIME QUARTET OF ITALIAN BLOCKBUSTERS Venetian vintage: Oeno's Fuorimostra Gala at the Casinò di Venezia (©Mauro Secco/Oeno)


ENERGY, ENTHUSIASM, EMPOWERMENT King Wood & Mallesons’ managing partner Darren Roiser tells Tempus what it takes to create better business through crisis

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hen the European arm of international law firm King & Wood Mallesons’ (KWM) filed for administration in January 2017, observers followed an unfolding saga as the UK experienced its largest law-firm collapse. But, soon enough, it was KWM’s phenomenal turnaround that was making headlines. Led by disputes lawyer Darren Roiser (right) and six partners, a new KWM London was set up in just three weeks. Within 18 months, the new firm had doubled in size and moved from serviced offices into the 11th floor of 20 Fenchurch Street – better known as the Walkie Talkie building. One of London’s youngest managing partners, Roiser has been named in the 2018 Lawyer’s Hot 100 and nominated for the 2019 Black British Business Awards for continuing to lead his practice to success. His clients range from public schools, musicians, and high net worth families to green energy start-ups, Russian oligarchs, Chinese tech giants and state-owned enterprises investing in energy and infrastructure. Here, Roiser sheds light on how creativity and inclusivity can help create opportunity in tough times.

IN TIMES OF CRISIS, INSTABILITY CAN

LEAD TO OPPORTUNITY

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CHANGING THE GAME “We, as lawyers, are often at the forefront of sudden change and we know that, in times of crisis, instability can lead to opportunity. While no one could have prepared for the events of this year, and the new reality presented by Covid-19, businesses now must face the fact that the old model may disappear and ask how they can maintain quality in their field. “Although I’m conscious there are people and businesses who are really struggling, we have already seen examples of growth in many different industries. KWM works with a number of clients in the education sector and, while it’s true that traditional private schools may be struggling with international enrolment and more, many schools and colleges successfully pivoted to online and blended learning with very little interruption to the curriculum. It requires good governance,

MINDSET FOR SUCCESS “When we restructured KWM London in 2017, we had just three weeks during the Christmas period. While we were able to lean on our Australian and Chinese colleagues for support, we knew that everything was ultimately in our hands, and that was quite empowering: people wanted to help us, but we had to tell them exactly what we needed. We had to become the decision makers. “This is the ethos we’ve tried to maintain in KWM London, but evolution requires having the right balance of people and approach. To use football as an example, Manchester United manager Sir Alex Ferguson would change his assistant manager every few years to evolve the team. On the other hand, Arsenal’s Arsène Wenger stuck to his philosophy of nurturing talent. Ideally, you

want a balance of these extremes: you need to challenge your ideas, don’t accept ‘the way it’s always been done’, and don’t be afraid to try something different. “Our ethos is to develop a culture of energy, enthusiasm and empowerment. I push hard to ensure this is instilled in all our associates. In today’s world, you only have to look at Old Street roundabout to see tech entrepreneurs in their 20s who have made millions, so there’s nothing stopping ambitious and entrepreneurial individuals from achieving. “Historically, lawyers would need at least a decade under their belts before people would even start listening, but I think some clients require a young, dynamic lawyer to meet their needs. If the situation is right, then I think it’s ideal to empower our younger colleagues to take ownership of their work and initiative.”

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investment and significant effort to flip a 100-yearold model: it was quite remarkable. Likewise, we’ve seen businesses in education technology and online learning [left] that have been busier than ever, and they are seeing more interest from investors. Elsewhere, while the retail sector is suffering in general, you have online companies like the Hut Group, Boohoo and Gymshark that are absolutely booming. “What these businesses show is that you can’t simply sit and wait, hoping the old model will come back. Though it may seem unpalatable, often moments of crisis accelerate changes that are already happening. For example, this year, online grocery shopping rapidly increased, surpassing the industry’s five-year projection, and that will never return to pre-lockdown figures. Businesses of every sector need to fearlessly adapt to the current market.”


A SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP “When our clients experience crisis, they want an advisor they can trust, and so your relationship becomes more important than ever. KWM London is often referred to as a challenger brand but we’re part of a global brand that is the top legal firm in both Asia and Australia. In London, we’re a much smaller entity – we have 17 partners and some 25 associates – but that hybrid state means we can leverage our advantage in big global jurisdictions, while also operating as a boutique firm domestically, exploring niche opportunities. “As a Chinese-Australian law firm, the UK’s relationship with China and Hong Kong does

have a direct impact on our clients. The impact of 2020 events has seen caution kick in for corporate entities, and the shape of British investment is changing rapidly – we all have to be suitably nimble to deal with whatever that throws at us. While five years ago, [ former PM] David Cameron said we were in a golden age of UK-China relations, it’s clear that there are many issues impacting that today – from Tik Tok in the US to Huawei being front page news. Yet, the nuclear sector and property developments have a vast amount of Chinese investment, which is under scrutiny. We’re in the eye of the storm but, to be clear, China is on track to be the largest superpower in the world very soon.” 78


BUSINESS

MAKING A DIFFERENCE “An important thing for our industry to consider is that there continue to be massive barriers to entry within the legal and financial services. When we look at demographics we often focus on black, Asian and minority ethnic (BAME) representation, so it’s easy to think we’re doing okay because there may be some elements of diverse representation here. But, actually, we rarely see people from lower socio-economic backgrounds breaking through in the sector, especially people from white working class or black and mixed race Caribbean backgrounds. “That level of social mobility is long gone and, I feel, has changed even in the last 20 years to become much harder, which is why I want to work more with schools to introduce students to how the City works. I speak in schools and we host events for students, though it’s been difficult to do as much as I’ve wanted to in 2020

– I have many more ideas for the future. “My brother and I were the first in our family to go to university, and it’s only recently that I realised quite what that meant to people. My father’s side were bricklayers from Croydon and my father worked in the back office at Barclays; on my mother’s side, my grandfather came to the UK shortly after the Windrush. They laid the groundwork that allowed me to get a scholarship to a private school and, subsequently, to Oxford University. “I can’t emphasise enough that no one ever achieves anything on their own. I had family members and teachers guide and inspire me at various times, and those interventions can be what push people to expand their horizons. If I can do that for a small number of students, that’s a great thing.” kwm.com/en/uk

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Left: King & Wood Mallesons is Asia's top law firm Above: Roiser attended Oriel College, University of Oxford


HEARTFELT MINIMALISM Tempus takes an exclusive look inside Amman Villa, an opulent home combining contemporary LA minimalism with a vibrant family life in the Jordan cityscape

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or Staffan Tollgård, former filmmaker turned designer, "heartfelt minimalism" became the tagline for Amman Villa, the home recently completed in collaboration with award-winning Lebanese architect Raëd Abillama. London-based luxury interior design and furnishing studio Tollgård was founded in 2005 by partners in life and design, Staffan and Monique Tollgård. The studio has become a multi-disciplinary practice that employs some of the brightest minds in the interiors industry in its three London showrooms, and has developed a reputation for creating award-winning international projects. Tollgård’s latest tour-de-force is a fiercely contemporary stone villa in Amman. Its structure more closely resembles a Los Angeles mansion than the traditional buildings of Jordan; a 14,000 sq ft open-plan canvas designed to be the family home of their affluent client. The client’s brief for Tollgård was to play with expectations: to create space for the family’s growth as well as providing sweeping vistas to suit the family’s love of entertaining. The result is a stylish juxtaposition of private and public life. The four-storey home is made of Jordanian limestone and Omani marble, with a metal and stone-clad staircase working as a vertical binding line. Natural wood and metal accents intersect in geometric intervals throughout. Any harshness in this palette is softened by the joinery, furniture and fabric design, which plays with rich textures. The guiding principle was a minimal, natural red thread that allowed the voice of the architecture – and extensive art collection – to resonate clearly through the building. The public to private transitions between a fun family home for five and a venue that can elegantly entertain up to 55 guest posed functional questions of living for both designer and architect. The answer lay in the zoning of public and private areas. The public ground floor of the property is designed for flexible entertainment spaces, with certain areas able to close off for smaller functions or open up to entertain on a grander scale. »

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Floor-to-ceiling doors concealed in structural columns are finished with timber veneers, and can be adapted to suit the changing needs of its family and guests. The two living rooms, dining room and show kitchen span the length of the ground floor, while joinery, materials and furniture combine to create flexible living spaces linked by form. The family floors contain a gym, soft-play area, ping-pong table and art studio, as well as communal areas and bedrooms. Despite these distinct areas, the design language remains consistent throughout public and private spaces, with the material palette – the red thread of Tollgård’s interior design – remaining solidly and calmly neutral, adding a zen-like calm to the rough and tumble of domestic daily life. Furnishings take their cues from the architectural palette and scale: on the ground floor, a lengthy Giorgetti Maharaja sofa is softly divided by bolsters that echo the linear arrangement of the vertical slats behind. The fabric scheme of refined linens is accented with pale colours and metallic threads, picked up in the Meridiani Belt coffee tables. The hand-knotted rug from Luke Irwin was one of the first pieces put into production and took more than six months to weave. The final design layer was the curation of an art collection made up of pieces that would stand the test of time and become as important to the interior as the building blocks of the architecture. Tollgård’s goal was to curate a new, original collection for the client made up of bold works that wouldn’t drown in the large spaces. Highlights include a striking, colourshifting piece from Zhuang Hong Yi, that makes for an interesting transition from reception room to formal dining room; while the simplicity of a large-scale circular triptych using interior textile surfaces, created by designers Ruth Waller and Lee Hewett, has captured the homeowners’ hearts. In the entrance a wonderful, typically whimsical and colourful piece by Susan Shup holds a personal message commissioned by the family. In the entrance a human-sized version of the sculpture The Visitor in bronze by artist Guido Deleu welcomes guests into the home. Unlike galleries that can feel cold and exist only to house and light the artwork, this is a warm space framed with natural materials, home to an energetic family experiencing views from every angle: a genuine gallery for life. tollgard.com

Red thread: Tollgård's guiding principle was minimal design and natural materials 84


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WHERE TOMORROW NEVER DIES 86


TRAVEL

Tempus explores the allure of the GoldenEye Resort, author Ian Fleming’s Jamaican bolt hole-turned-luxury Caribbean idyll Words: Polly Jean Harrison

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n a stunning oasis on the north coast of Jamaica, the GoldenEye estate is an extraordinary island getaway. Originally owned by Ian Fleming, the estate is now known as a private retreat for the likes of Jay-Z, Grace Jones and Kate Moss. Made up of island buildings, beautiful gardens and beaches, all nestled in stunning Oracabessa Bay, this sun-soaked escape is suitable for spy novel enthusiasts and beach hoppers alike. Fleming first visited Jamaica in 1942 but it was only after the Second World War, when he was working as a journalist for The Sunday Times, that he began to visit regularly, buying 15 acres of land upon which he built his house overlooking a sandy private beach. Fleming dubbed his annual getaway GoldenEye after Carson McCullers’ novel Reflections in a Golden Eye, and Operation Goldeneye – a strategy to monitor potential alliance between Spain’s Francisco Franco and the Axis powers that Fleming had developed in his role as a wartime Naval Intelligence Commander. In 1977, 13 years after Fleming’s death, the property was sold to Chris Blackwell, owner of Island Records and the son of Blanche Blackwell – known as a ‘friend, mistress and muse’ to Fleming – who lived nearby. He began expanding the property, realising the original Fleming building didn’t have enough rooms for its popularity, and set about introducing new huts and villas and increasing the land to 40 acres. In the ’80s, GoldenEye officially became a hotel, and is where Blackwell lives most of the year to this day. While the resort is a subtle shrine to Fleming – with copies of his books dotted about, and pictures of the author with friends on the walls – it is by no means a museum to the man. The Fleming Villa is the centrepiece of the lush grounds, and remains lived in, almost exactly as he left it, but without a velvet rope in sight. Want to stoke your imagination? Why not try penning your own novel at Fleming’s desk, flicking through his collection of books. After all, regardless of being a perfect spot for an island getaway, the site has attracted creative people of all types for decades. Artists, writers and musicians have visited

From Jamaica with love: The luxurious GoldenEye Resort began life as Ian Fleming's Caribbean home

FLEMING CREATED GOLDENEYE AS

A FAR-FLUNG ESCAPE AND THAT ETHOS REMAINS

GoldenEye for inspiration, with Fleming himself writing all 14 of 007’s adventures on the site. The Bond books have always shared Fleming’s love affair with the Caribbean – the character is named for an American ornithologist and expert on Caribbean birds, James Bond. Even a nearby beach has been named after the character, and resort guests can visit the crystal-clear water and popular two storey Moonraker Bar. Make no mistake, however; this is no tacky pop culture shrine, but rather features very subtle nods to the books and movies. Fleming created GoldenEye as a far-flung escape, and that ethos remains. Each of the 46 accommodations on site is its own private world. Every villa and hut has its own cosy tropical charm, surrounded by luscious greenery and with access to the crystal clear lagoon. Privacy and discretion are key here, with even the entrance to the property so low key you’d miss the gate if you weren’t looking hard enough. Though keen for their guests to visit the community and break out of “all-inclusivity”, GoldenEye has a variety of dining options, in addition self-catering kitchens in many of the buildings, and prides itself on fresh and authentic Jamaican ingredients and cuisine. With several bars and restaurants, as well as room service, there are many places to kick back with delicious food and famous Jamaican rum – including Blackwell’s own label. If you don’t quite feel up to writing your own classic spy novel, there are plenty more activities to pass the time during your stay. From swimming to snorkelling and a whole host of water sports, there’s something for everyone to do, backdropped by the perfect island views. Whether you’re looking for a Bond pilgrimage to tide you over until the belated release of No Time To Die, or just want to bask in the Caribbean sun, this stunning getaway is designed for true escape. And, should you soon find yourself lounging at the tropical resort, do be sure to order a drink for us – shaken, not stirred. goldeneye.com 88


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Tempus discovers the greatest novels of the year with the 2020 Booker Prize shortlist


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aunched in 1969, the Booker Prize for Fiction is a literary prize awarded each year for the best original novel written in the English language and published in the UK. Previous winners have included titans of their genre, such as William Golding, Salman Rushdie, Ian McEwan and Hilary Mantel while, in 2019, a shock announcement saw Margaret Atwood and Bernardine Evaristo share the prize. This year’s shortlist, selected from 162 submissions, is the prize’s most diverse selection of fiction yet; four of the six novels are the author’s debut, and four have been printed by independent publishers. The judging panel comprises Lee Child, author of the Jack Reacher series; writer and broadcaster Lemn Sissay; author and classics professor Emily Wilson; and writer and critic Sameer Rahim, all alongside the panel’s chair, publisher, editor and activist Margaret Busby. “The best novels often prepare our societies for valuable conversations,” says Busby. “Not just about the inequities and dilemmas of the world − whether in connection with climate change, forgotten communities, old age, racism, or revolution when necessary − but also about how magnificent the interior life of the mind, imagination and spirit is, in spite of circumstance.” Here, the Booker Prize judges tell us why these six novels are so unputdownable… » thebookerprizes.com

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THE SHADOW KING By Maaza Mengiste

SHUGGIE BAIN By Douglas Stuart

BURNT SUGAR By Avni Doshi

Born in Ethiopia and based in New York City, Mengiste has set her novel in the shadow of the second Italo-Ethiopian war. The Shadow King follows Hirut, who plots to disguise a gentle peasant as the country’s exiled emperor and inspires other women to take up arms; but her own personal war as a prisoner is yet to come.

The debut novel of Scottish-American author Stuart follows single mother Agnes Bain and her three children in 1981 Glasgow. With poverty on the rise in the struggling mining town, Agnes turns to alcohol for comfort, while her son, Shuggie, has problems of his own.

Born in New Jersey and based in Dubai, Doshi has written a powerful first novel about love and betrayal between mother and daughter. Tara abandoned traditional life, with her young child in tow, but years later that daughter must become the carer.

Emily Wilson says: “Douglas Stuart’s debut creates an amazingly intimate, gripping portrait of addiction, courage and love. Shuggie Bain is a heartbreaking, heartwarming yet unsentimental novel which gives a vivid glimpse of a marginalised, impoverished community in a bygone era of British history… We admired the book’s immersive, nuanced portrait of a tightknit social world, its people and its values, and we were deeply moved by the portrait of the mother, Agnes. Shuggie Bain is a desperately sad, but almost-hopeful examination of family and the destructive powers of desire.”

Sameer Rahim says: “Burnt Sugar explores the complex relationship between a mother and daughter in contemporary India. Precisely written, and told from a resolutely unsentimental perspective, Avni Doshi’s novel explores what happens when a difficult mother starts to fade into illness. As the title indicates, this is a novel that often leaves a bitter taste in the mouth. That is a deliberate and often bracing effect: the author bravely pushes the limits of the reader’s sympathy. It is a compelling book, beautifully written and with startling imagery – emotionally wrenching and poignant in equal measure.”

Lee Child says: “As a fellow writer I was bowled over by Mengiste’s effortless management of an epic and ambitious structure. As a hungry reader I loved the way she found a personal, intimate and tragic story centred on luminous, living, breathing characters. As a Booker judge I was completely convinced by the end result, which is both huge in its sweep and personally owned by Hirut, the fierce and resourceful protagonist... The story is important – really the opening shots of the Second World War – but rarely told before, and the whole is wrapped in gorgeous, lyrical prose of the highest quality.”

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CULTURE THIS MOURNABLE BODY By Tsitsi Dangarembga

REAL LIFE By Brandon Taylor

THE NEW WILDERNESS By Diane Cook

Zimbabwean author and activist Dangarembga’s novel is a tense and psychologically charged read. Living in a rundown youth hostel in downtown Harare, Tambudzai attempts to make a life for herself.

Taylor’s debut novel follows Wallace – an introverted African-American at odds with the university town where he is studying. Confrontations with his colleagues and an unexpected encounter with a young straight man force Wallace to question his past and future. A nuanced novel that navigates the prejudgments of race and sexuality within academia.

Brooklyn-based Cook is a critically acclaimed novelist and short story writer whose shortlisted novel tells of her protagonist Bea’s battle to save her daughter in a world ravaged by climate change.

Margaret Busby says: “We found This Mournable Body, set in late 20th-century Zimbabwe, both heartbreaking and haunting – a compelling novel in which the breakdown of the female protagonist, Tambu, and the breakdown of a country are inextricably linked. Written in an eloquent, cinematic style that with each page rewards the reader’s commitment, This Mournable Body is also an acute observation of the absurdities and indignities endured as a result of the foibles of the tourism industry in Africa; but at heart it is a universal story, of an intelligent person enmeshed in mediocrity and injustice, forced to swallow the pill of disillusion while being kept going by hope.”

Margaret Busby says: “Real Life held our attention and admiration as a fresh take on the campus-novel – the story of Wallace, an introverted young man whose Alabama background has not prepared him for what he must deal with as he works his way towards a degree in a Midwestern college town. A beautifully written debut, this alchemy of identity and sexuality in the seemingly hermetic halls of academia is a quietly moving and nuanced account of micro-aggressions, racism, trauma, grief and alienation.

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Lemn Sissay says: “Journeys through the wilderness are as old as the hills but this is the ‘New Wilderness’, created by humans to preserve us from extinction… It’s a novel taking on the greatest story of our times − climate change − but through the intimate relationships of a select group who, as an experiment, are living in it… The characters are driven by each other and their environment. They get wilder and wilder. At its centre is the intense loving and punishing relationship between mother and daughter, Bea and Agnes. […] An urgent novel reflective of what is happening in society now.”


SAVE the DATE Your luxury events calendar for October and November 2020

ART & DESIGN Frieze London and Frieze Masters return this year – albeit virtually – with a range of online viewing rooms and Frieze Talks featuring internally renowned artists, including Takashi Murakami, Lubaina Himid and John Akomfrah (until 16 Oct). To celebrate Black History Month (October), Royal Museums Greenwich – which includes the Cutty Sark (right) – has launched a range of activities, from virtual drawing classes to First World War exhibitions. Don’t miss its latest commission, Ghost Meridian, an installation by the BLKBRD Collective. Outside the National Maritime Museum, the installation explores themes of migration, colonialism, slavery, under-representation and injustice through a series of banners. Head back in time with the V&A Museum’s Renaissance Watercolours Exhibition (opens 21 Nov) presenting the early forms of this versatile artform for the first time.

CULTURE While the future of our cinemas remains uncertain, the BFI London Film Festival (7-18 Oct) is proving that Britain still has movie magic to spare. Experience the latest releases online and attend the starstudded Screen Talks series with the likes of actors George Clooney (left) and Letitia Wright. Meanwhile, further to the success of its live digital performances, Sadler’s Wells – London’s home of contemporary dance – has announced a stunning, socially distanced programme for the autumn season, including four performances from the English National Ballet (19-21 Nov) in the company’s post-lockdown debut. »

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SPORT While many team fixtures are still subject to the whims of the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, the coming months will see some exciting opportunities to welcome in the autumn and winter season of sport. The Giro d’Italia (325 Oct) will resume, with cyclists travelling the 2,173 miles of the three-week Grand Tour. In November, prepare for the Masters Golf Tournament (12-15 Nov) to return to Augusta National, featuring golfing stars including Tiger Woods and Rory McIlroy. Finally, tennis fans will delight in the Nitto ATP Finals (15-22 Nov) coming to London’s O2 after Wimbledon’s cancellation this summer, where Grand Slam champs Novak Djokovic and Rafael Nadal (both left) seek their sixth year-end world No.1 finish.

AUTOMOTIVE In Formula 1, Grand Prix fixtures in Portugal (23-25 Oct), Italy (30 Oct-1 Nov), Turkey (13-15 Nov) and Bahrain (27-29 Nov) will delight fans until the year’s final Grand Prix in Abu Dhabi (11-13 Dec, left), while the F1’s Esports Pro Series (14 Oct-17 Dec) launches its fourth season in style. The Esports season sees racers compete on a bespoke version of the Codemasters’ F1 2020 game. Elsewhere, following the success of the late summer’s classic car meets, Goodwood SpeedWeek (16-18 Oct) will bring together the best elements of the Festival of Speed and Revival, with timed shootouts, competitive racing and two brand-new Super Special rally stages in the form of an immersive broadcast for viewers to enjoy at home.

SAILING While many of this year’s meets have been postponed until 2021, the yachting capital of the world is sticking to its gunships with the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show (28 Oct-1 Nov, left). Featuring some of the latest boats and yachts in the industry, world debuts, and a medley of marine products and accessories to enhance the nautical lifestyle – as well as displays from yacht builders and designers to exotic cars and brokerage yachts. For a VIP experience, join the Windward VIP Club – in partnership with official timekeeper Ulysse Nardin – to enjoy an experience in the Captain’s Lounge, early show access, private concierge to book appointments, and premium bar, restaurant and lounge access – perfect for enjoying the show while social distancing. In the UAE, Dubai Boat Show (24-28 Nov) promises to ooze “oomph and elegance”. From glamorous yachts and fun activities, to the return of the show’s DIVE MENA – a one stop show for lovers of diving and watersports complete with talks by world record holding diver Ahmed Gabr.

For more exciting events, visit our website:

While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, changes to event calendars may occur. Please check with individual event organisers for more information.

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ANTHONY

SINCLAIR BESPOKE

James Bond’s original tailor and creator of the Conduit Cut B Y

A P P O IN T M EN T

AT

34 Montagu Square, London, W1H 2LJ +44 (0) 207 4377 007 info@anthonysinclair.com

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&

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TASTED

Former Goldman Sachs director and vintage guitar collector Phil Hylander founded the sensational stage show-meets-guitar masterclass, Seven Decades. Here, Hylander shares his pick of rock’n’roll restaurants… Words: Freddy Clode

sevendecades.com

FOOD WITH A VIEW | THE SUMMERHOUSE This Little Venice restaurant is perfectly situated by the Grand Union Canal, just a stone’s throw from sister-restaurant Waterway. With fresh fish – including catch of the day – and scenic canal views, you’ll be transported far from home. Hylander says: “After an hour’s shopping at the fantastic Clifton Nurseries, The Summerhouse is the ideal lunch spot. You’re in central London at canal level, eating perfectly cooked fresh fish, but you could be anywhere in the world.” thesummerhouse.co

HIDDEN GEM | JIN KICHI

BEST FOR BUSINESS | THE WOLSELEY

COOL CABARET | CRAZY COQS

A family-run restaurant serving authentic Japanese cuisine to its local Hampstead residents, Jin Kichi boasts a robata bar as well as cosy seating upstairs. Despite its small size, this restaurant is more popular than ever, but this local hideaway is well worth the wait for your reservation.

This grand café at 160 Piccadilly has been the perfect blend of effortless glamour and classic European cuisine since it opened in 2003. From indulgent breakfasts to elegant lunches, and sumptuous suppers to late-night café dining, this unstuffy restaurant is the perfect place to impress.

A striking art deco cabaret and jazz bar hidden within Piccadilly Circus’ Brasserie Zédel, Crazy Coqs is known for its intimate variety performances, from live bands to comedy acts. Enjoy the refined and relaxed atmosphere complete with table service most evenings.

Hylander says: “Jin Kichi gives such attention to detail with everything they do, right down to what direction the shiso leaf is facing, but it’s never pretentious. Purely the best Japanese in the world.”

Hylander says: “The Wolseley is deeply unfussy, but the ambience is just right to give you the confidence to negotiate. I always go for the steak tartare to start, vodka martini at the bar, and the daily special for my main course.”

Hylander says: “An old-school cabaret bar where you’ll hear a legendary artist pour out their life story on the piano, while you enjoy the strongest vodka martinis in London.”

jinkichi.com

thewolseley.com

brasseriezedel.com

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TIMING IS EVERYTHING

Heesen’s Project Triton offers the rare opportunity to own and enjoy a brand new yacht without the waiting. 50-metre Triton combines advanced Heesen engineering with Dutch craftsmanship, timeless exterior lines by Clifford Denn and contemporary interior design by Reymond Langton. With her full displacement steel hull and a range of 3,800 nautical miles, Triton is a true blue-water motor yacht. Ready for delivery and perfectly on time for cruising this summer. heesenyachts.com

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