TIMELESS INSPIRATION
S U STA INAB LE
STY L E
The New Year fashion resolution that is revolutionising menswear
LENNY KRAVITZ | THE BRITISH LUXURY REVIEW | NEW TRAVEL TRENDS ISSUE
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www.blakeshotels.com 33 ROLAND GARDENS LONDON SW7 3PF
A Home For The Free Spirit
THE ELECTRIC ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM V BY LUNAZ. WWW.LUNAZ.DESIGN I CONTACT: INFO@LUNAZ.DESIGN
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hen the Oxford English Dictionary announced its 2020 Word of the Year, it came as no surprise that this unprecedented year had earned not just one word, but a whole list of new phrases and portmanteaus – from Blursday (a day of the week indistinguishable from any other) to Covidiot (a person who disobeys pandemic guidelines). But amid the list of Corona-related phrases there is some relief from all the doomscrolling (another OED winner, meaning compulsively scrolling through bad news on the web or social media). More positive phrases show the cultural strides taken towards social equality (Black Lives Matter) and sustainability (net zero), while a clutch of digitally inspired neologisms – like Zoombombing and unmute – reflect the rapid digitalisation of our work and social lives since March. Just as our language has evolved over the past 12 months, so too has our appetite for a more meaningful, post-opulent form of luxury. According to our canvassing of some of Britain’s biggest brands – in our first annual British Luxury Review – a year of uncertainty has accelerated our desire to seek out experiences and companies that make a positive impact on the world, improve the lives of their employees and customers, and create objects of true beauty that are designed to last (page 26). Their insights are confirmed by Helen Brocklebank, CEO of luxury trade organisation Walpole, who predicts we will not only recover from the year’s many trials but that the challenges of 2020 will be the catalyst for a creative renaissance – read Helen’s column on page 16. Another major trend predicted for 2021 is the continued growth in sustainable practices. It’s fair to say that combatting the climate crisis is no longer the remit of NGOs and social enterprises alone, as our cover story shows. Our exclusive menswear shoot, starring model and designer Oliver Cheshire, gathers some of the most exciting luxury labels to uplift any gentleman’s New Year wardrobe. Better still, each of the brands featured are moving away from fast fashion in favour of a new production model that celebrates traditional craftsmanship as it moves towards a zero-waste standard. Head to page 40 to see more. Elsewhere in the issue, we bring you a trio of architectural intrigue: rock legend Lenny Kravitz shares his design collaboration with Steinway & Sons (18), Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi tells us why community-led property developments are here to stay (84), and yachting designer Adriana Monk reveals her philosophy of design in motion (88). Tempus also looks forward to all-new travel trends on page 70 as well as the independent boutiques encouraging us to shop local (56). While our gaze may be fixed on the year ahead, we haven’t forgotten the joy and hope of the festive season to come. In a year where spending time with our loved ones is, more than ever, the greatest luxury of all, that doesn’t mean we can’t treat them (or ourselves) with a few stocking fillers! Don’t miss our special extended Luxe List (10) for a curation of gifts to help you round off the holidays in style. Before we collectively say goodbye to 2020 and settle in with our Christmas bubbles (another OED winner), all that’s left to do is wish you a very happy and prosperous New Year. Enjoy the issue
Michelle Johnson Editor Tempus
Tempus magazine is published by Vantage Media Limited. www.vantagemediagroup.co.uk © 2020 Vantage Media Limited Articles and other contributions published in this journal may be reproduced only with special permission from the Publishers. The Publishers, Vantage Media Limited, accept no responsibility for any views or statements made in the articles and other contributions reproduced from any other source. No responsibility is accepted for the claims in advertisements appearing in this journal and the Publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertisements at their discretion.
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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL TEAM Editor Michelle Johnson michelle@tempusmagazine.co.uk Helen Brocklebank The CEO of trade organisation Walpole, Helen reveals how luxury brands could be on the cusp of a creative renaissance as they recover from an unprecented year (16).
Creative Director Ross Forbes ross@tempusmagazine.co.uk Wealth Editor Lysanne Currie Motoring Editor Rory FH Smith
Judy Cogan Lifestyle journalist Judy heads to Paris for an exclusive tour of Boucheron’s atelier to find out how the solace of nature is inspiring the brand’s most divine high jewellery yet (36).
Sub-Editor Dominique Dinse COMMERCIAL TEAM Sales & Content Executive Freddy Clode freddy@tempusmagazine.co.uk Sales & Event Enquiries info@tempusmagazine.co.uk
Ian Gavan Specialising in music and fashion, photographer Ian Gavan brings his inimitable style to our sustainable fashion cover shoot on page 40. Ecofriendly fashion has never looked so good.
VANTAGE MEDIA LIMITED Chairman Floyd Woodrow Managing Director Peter Malmstrom
Lauren Jade Hill Our travel writer Lauren predicts the feel-good travel trends of 2021 (70) before turning her expert eye to the British boutiques that are inspiring us all to shop local (56).
Daniel Pembrey Based between London and Amsterdam, Daniel is a journalist and author of the Henk van der Pol detective series. On page 78 he shares his pick of today’s most exciting all-electric ocean toys.
Operations Director Colin Clark colin@vantagemediagroup.co.uk GET IN TOUCH Tempus Magazine Vantage Media Limited 22 South Audley St London W1K 2NY +44 (0) 203 519 1005 info@tempusmagazine.co.uk
tempusmagazine.co.uk @tempusmagazine @tempusmagazine
COVER IMAGE Oliver Cheshire wears suit by Dashing Tweeds, top by Peregrine, gloves by Anderson Sheppard and watch by Longines. Photography by Ian Gavan, styling by Joseph Crone, shot at Blakes Hotel London. Article on page: XX
Responsibly printed Printed by Park Communications, UK on Edixion Offset (FSC® certified paper) using vegetable inks and sustainable printing methods. www.parkcom.co.uk 7
CONTENTS
10 The luxe list A festive edition of our pick of the must-have gifts of the season 16 A creative renaissance The Walpole’s Helen Brocklebank on why 2021 will be a year of transformation 18 Grand design Rock legend Lenny Kravitz shares his design collaboration with Steinway & Sons 24 Red Eight Gallery The London gallery’s creative director explains why the art world needs to support rising stars 26 The British Luxury Review We speak to the UK’s prestige brands about the lessons of 2020 30 King of the off-road Celebrating 50 years of the iconic Range Rover at Goodwood Motor Circuit 36 Spirit of creativity We head behind the scenes at Boucheron’s Paris atelier 40 The modern man Your New Year’s wardrobe is sorted with these stylish and sustainable looks 50 Taking flight The tourbillon timepieces creating a new class of statement watch 56 The personal touch From quality craftmanship to bespoke design, the independent boutiques encouraging us to shop small 60 A feast for the senses Renowned restaurateur Mourad Mazouz on his tribute to the American diner 62 Skin deep Indulgent home-grown brands for men and women 66 Mind matters Jason Fox tells us about his mission to get men talking about mental health 70 The future of travel From remote destinations to wellness escapes, explore the feel-good travel trends for 2021 78 Ocean drive We bring you the best eco-friendly ocean toys to take to the waves in style 82 Message in a bottle Raise a glass to the family heritage shaping some of today’s unique wine houses 84 Building a vision Banda Property founder Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi tells us why he is focusing on community-led builds 88 Design in motion Interior yacht designer Adriana Monk on how her philosophy is making waves 90 Machine in the ghost We discover the “complex simplicity” driving Rolls-Royce’s post-opulent appeal 94 Save the date The finest events of the season 100 Tried & tasted Dinner party doyenne Alexandra Dudley serves up a platter of London’s best restaurants
ISSUE 71
40 The Modern Man 9
The LUXE LIST A festive edition of our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal gifts
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Red Eight Gallery With a track record for discovering the next generation of Banksys, Red Eight Gallery showcases some of the art world’s most talented rising stars, including American artist Rachel Chamberlain. The key to Chamberlain’s otherworldly art is her use of mantras and meditation, which allow her to tune into the vibrations of the universe and unleash that primordial creative energy straight onto her canvas. Chamberlain’s work is hung internationally, and her loyal client base includes famous names from the international political and business elite as well as several celebrity collectors. Pictured is her piece Before we Disappear. Read more on page 24 redeightgallery.com
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Westley Richards Bournbrook 48hr Bag in Buffalo Hide This refined 48hr travel bag is perfectly designed for that longedfor weekend away. Whether you’re travelling over the festive season, visiting your favourite shooting lodge, or celebrating New Year with a quick getaway, Westley Richards’ sumptuous Bournbrook design is the functional and fashionable must-have of the season, featuring secure compartments inside and out, and a collapsible shoe section. Hand-crafted in England – and named after the brand’s 1894-2008 HQ in Bournbrook, Birmingham – the collection is inspired by the checkering that Westley Richards’ master gunsmiths apply to their gun stocking and details of their gun cases, while the lining design is an ode to master engraver Paul Lantuch. At £2,095, this is a stylish and beautifully crafted bag designed to keep you ahead of the game.
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Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge A stunning display of craftsmanship, Breguet’s newest Classique Double Tourbillon features a dramatically exposed mechanism propelled by two independent tourbillon, each completing a full rotation per minute. It boasts a platinum case with finely fluted caseband and a sapphire dial, with the hours hand-etched in the same blued-steel as the delicate hands, which extend from the bar supporting the twin tourbillon. In tribute to Breguet founder AbrahamLouis Breguet, the timepiece is completed with a hand-engraved image of the house he occupied from 1775 – 39 Quai de l’Horloge, Paris – on the caseback. Finally, it’s etched in gold, and one can even catch a glimpse of the wheels of the caliber through the windowpanes. Time travel, indeed… breguet.com/en
westleyrichards.com
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Champagne Royal Riviera Earning notoriety in the UK and around the world, this delicious, award-winning champagne made in Epernay proudly celebrates the French Riviera and lifestyle of Monte-Carlo, propelled by its two female owners Sara Ramirez (who lives on the French Riviera) and Kiron Barui ( from the Australian Gold Coast). With the help of a formidable chef de cave, these ‘champagne sisters’ are bringing the world a new way to celebrate champagne. Their partnership with this traditional champagne house, founded in 1869, brings a “little bit of Monaco” to every bottle. Playful on the palate, with effervescent fruity notes, Royal Riviera Brut Supreme blends pinot noir with touches of chardonnay and pinot meunier for a champagne that will pair well with everything from caviar to cupcakes. Even better, the brand is vegan-friendly and committed to sustainability from vine to bottle. Santé! champagneroyalriviera.com
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Lee Paton “Verdure” Tapestry Slippers These sumptuous slippers from London’s most private and exclusive couture house Lee Paton are guaranteed to sooth the sole on those cool winter evenings. Inspired by 17th-century tapestries, the elegant “Verdure” slippers feature woodland scenes – such as English oak tapestries and hand-embroidered wild brambles made from Swarovski pearls – reflecting the period’s botanical love affair. The collection is designed for men and women in a range of sizes to guarantee the perfect fit, but for those wanting an extra special gift, Lee Paton also offers customisation from monograms in hand-stitched gold bullion to personalised embroidery. Hand-crafted at the brand’s London atelier, these slippers leave no carbon footprint. leepaton.co.uk
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Dr Pradnya Apte x Pietro Simone For those seeking a treatment with truly lasting results, this new collaboration is sure to delight. Award-winning aesthetic practitioner Dr Pradnya Apte BDS has teamed up with celebrity skincare expert Pietro Simone to launch the exclusive multi refine and sculpt facial at her clinic on Harley Street (right). The facial combines Pietro Simone’s unique ‘Signature Organic Cotton Thread’ method with deep-tissue dry massage with his luxurious active skincare and custom spa formulas. Unique to any clinic in the world, Apte offers this facial combined with Profilho, a type of filler that boosts skin fullness and youthfulness for what Apte describes as “the ultimate fresh face”. This combination treatment is exclusive to Dr Pradnya Apte London clinic on the city’s famous Harley Street. drpradnyalondon.com
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JING Signature Green Tea Sharing Set Served in five-star hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants around the world, JING offers distinctive single garden teas that wow the senses with their purity and fulfilling depth of flavour. Continuously searching the globe for the most characterful teas that capture the individuality of their origin and tea masters, JING aims to revolutionise the world of tea, focusing on single-garden teas that transport you to tastes and lands unknown. A key element in the pleasure of great loose-leaf tea lies in the mindful ceremony of infusing it, which is why JING’s teaware is not only simple and easy to use at home but also modern and aesthetically pleasing. We recommend the Signature Green Tea Sharing Set (left, £176), the brand’s ultimate set for entertaining friends and family. It includes a recyclable caddy of Organic Jade Sword green tea (75g), along with a 1ltr Tea-ière, Teacanter, four glass cups and saucers, a large bamboo uplift tray and a glass tea timer, so you can be certain of a perfect cup of tea for everyone. jingtea.com
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Schofield Watch Company Strange Lights Limited Edition The first novelty by Sussex-based watchmakers Schofield since 2018, Strange Lights Limited Edition encapsulates the brand’s daring design and comfort. With an ultra-light titanium case and limited to 29 pieces, Strange Lights comes in two striking dial colours – not-quite-red and not-quite-green – inspired by port and starboard navigation lights used by sea or sky and highlighted with custom SuperLumiNova. On the case back, an engraving of a 1950s-style UFO hovering above Smeaton’s Tower, Plymouth represents SWC’s inspiration: the English coast with a touch of the obscure. Powered by a self-winding ETA 2824-2 mechanical movement, and finished with your pick of SWC’s fine straps – available in a variety of materials and finishes – sure to light up your style. schofieldwatchcompany.com
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Alexandra Wood It can be notoriously difficult to buy for the person who has everything but, thanks to Savile Row designer Alexandra Wood, there is still time to find the perfect stocking filler. The designer’s range of scarves, socks, pocket squares and prints – handmade in the UK using the finest cotton and silk – is inspired by a passion for sports. Alexandra Wood’s bold but elegant prints paint the scene for tennis, rugby, yachting, motoring or cycling fans (right) – and while suitable even for the most formal occasions, they are a subtle way for a gentleman to express his passions in his sartorial stylings. A tour de force. alexandrawoodbespoke.co.uk
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Bolney Wine Estate Christmas Hamper It wouldn’t be Christmas without a hamper, and this year we’ve got our eyes on a range of specialist collections by award-winning English wine estate, Bolney. Each edition is filled to brim with locally sourced treats, so you can take your pick from Chrismas Eve or Boxing Day edits. Or, for the ultimate indulgence, opt for the Christmas Wine & Cheese Lovers Hamper (left) – complete with a trio of cheese, Bolney Bacchus Chutney, Spelt Crackers, Lilly Puds Xmas Pudding, Charbonnel et Walker Dark Chocolate Mint Thins, Quinta do Vallado 10 yr Tawny Port and, of course, a bottle each of Bolney’s superb blanc de blanc and pinot noir. Sure to leave the lucky recipients of this festive bounty very merry, indeed. bolneywineestate.com
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The 12 Jewels of Garrard When it comes to fine jewellery house Garrard, there is always a wealth of creative collections to treat your loved one, particularly during the festive season. This year, Garrard has produce 12 pieces for women – designed by an all-female team – celebrating British craftsmanship as well as the brand’s esteemed heritage. Favourite pieces include their iconic Wings Embrace earrings, newly updated for 2020; the Aloria cocktail ring, whose vibrant gems surrounded by a halo of diamonds are inspired by Princess Diana’s sapphire engagement ring, today worn by the Duchess of Cambridge; and the Muse Starlight earrings, which pay homage to Queen Alexandra, one of Garrard’s most dazzling royal patrons. garrard.com
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The Singleton 38-Year-Old The perfect indulgent dram, The Singleton 38-Year-Old is an ode to the virtue of patience. The vision of awardwinning master of malts Maureen Robinson, this cask strength whisky that has undergone a lengthy 26-year secondary maturation – the longest in The Singleton’s history – to create a vibrant, intensely fruity and powerfully smooth Singleton of Glen Ord. The 38-Year-old starts mellow on the nose, with aromas of red apple and candied citrus fruits, succeeded by almond oil and vanilla pod; its smooth taste is described by Robinson as “intense and fruity”, suggesting cinnamon-spiced baked apple, drying into a peppery warmth on the palate, followed by a long finish. Limited to 1,689 bottles worldwide and, at £2,100, this is a truly indulgent nightcap. thesingleton.com
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Hadid Caviar Give the gift of ultimate indulgence with this exquisite new caviar collection from famed Bel Air property developer (and father of models Gigi, Bella and Anwar) Mohamed Hadid. The impressive portfolio of caviars launched this year with four editions – Black (Imperial), Gold (Royal Oscietra), Black Diamond (Beluga) and Sultan’s (Almas) – before adding Silver (Baerii) and Ruby (Sevruga) expressions just in time for the festive season. all produced exclusively for the brand, hand-selected by Hadid, and all fully traceable and sustainable. What’s more, 5% of profits from every purchase will be donated to amfAR, one of the world’s leading HIV and AIDS research and advocacy organisations. hadidcaviar.com
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Adam Nathaniel Furman for Floor_Story Add a touch of summer to your home with designer Adam Nathaniel Furman’s bold Mediterranean-inspired series of rugs, created exclusively for leading rugmaker Floor_Story. Artist and designer Furman collaborated with the brand’s head designer Gill Thorpe on the series of 13 rugs, choosing qualities, constructions and yarn from a selection of more than 1,500 colours. Describing the rugs as a “landscape of pleasure”, each is ethically crafted from 100% New Zealand wool and handmade by India’s most skilled rug makers, ensuring rich vibrancy in colour, enduring quality and a luxurious underfoot feel. Each colourful geometric design can be made to bespoke sizes, to give any home a pop of sunshine this winter. floorstory.co.uk
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Blakes Hotel London Step through the doors of Blakes London to discover a hotel of truly unconventional luxury. This sophisticated stay, located where Kensington and Chelsea meet, is the world’s first five-star boutique hotel, and boasts sumptuous interiors inspired by the theatrical glamour of fashion, film, music and art. Boasting impressive sustainability credentials, the hotel’s signature suites are each unique in taste and style, united by sumptuous fabrics and indulgent comfort. The refined brasserie restaurant and bar, with its industrial Art Deco elegance, is as ideal for a working-coffee as it is dinner with friends, while the gym and wellness club – partnered with the South Kensington Club – promises guests and visitors capital relaxation. See more on page 40 blakeshotels.com
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A creative RENAISSANCE The impact of this year’s lockdowns may have changed our high streets for ever but, writes Walpole CEO Helen Brocklebank, the luxury sector has long been ahead of the curve. We find why Covid-19 may yet inspire a cultural shift that brings a bright future for luxury brands
IT’S NO LONGER ENOUGH FOR A PRODUCT TO BE GOOD QUALITY, THE BRAND MUST HAVE GOOD ETHICS
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omantic poet John Keats wrote: “A thing of beauty is a joy for ever”. For me, that sentence is at the heart of what UK luxury is really about. Luxury is not about showing off. It’s not about opulence and excess but, rather, about combining beauty and utility; items made with extraordinary craftsmanship and that are sustainable in the best sense of the word. Although 2020 has been difficult, I think we’re seeing a lasting shift away from the material and towards the mindful. People have had to consider what they really value – quality time with people they love or what truly makes them happy – and that’s not going away any time soon. Luckily, high-end brands have long been focused on creating joyful experiences for their customers and transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary. You can see it in the level of storytelling that luxury brands provide, emphasising how their products are made, the love and individuality that went into them. That deeper meaning is becoming ever more important to customers who demand authenticity and transparency – but who also are insisting that brands live by their values. Walpole is the official trade organisation for British luxury, a member organisation designed to protect, promote and develop luxury brands in the UK. The majority of British luxury businesses are either retail or hospitality, and affluent international visitors are key to the business model, so the global pandemic has presented tremendous challenges for a
sector that was worth £48bn a year to the UK economy pre-Covid. This impact to the sector’s revenue has a huge knock-on effect on jobs – not just a company’s own workforce but that of its suppliers around the country, from manufacturers to distributors. That’s why Walpole has been campaigning to extend this year’s earlier freeze on the VAT Retail Export Scheme (VAT RES). I can understand why it may seem like a tax break for well-off international visitors but, in reality, freezing VAT RES can benefit the cost of sales for small businesses in the UK. For example, a lack of sales on Bond Street has a direct impact on employment in Elgin in Scotland, or Stoke-onTrent, Somerset or Northampton. Savile Row is another good example: creating a bespoke suit involves the most extraordinary set of skills that don’t really exist anywhere else in the world. Textiles are sourced and made across the length and breadth of the country – Yorkshire, Lancashire and Scotland, particularly – and it’s an extremely sustainable supply chain. The sector as a whole is so committed to sustainability that Walpole launched its British Luxury Sustainability Manifesto in early 2020 to set a 10-year plan for us to become the most sustainable sector in the world. More than ever, the customer wants to know the origins of what they buy, and their passion for sustainability ties into mindful consumerism: it’s no longer enough for a product to be good quality, the brand must 16
have good ethics. It’s an interesting trend that, as we saw in the [March] lockdown, is shared by luxury brands themselves. I was so impressed by the way businesses that were rapidly restructuring to remain stable, immediately turned to contribute to the national effort. We saw brands making everything from PPE to hand sanitiser, working with charities and, critically, making sure their workforce was well cared for during a time of great anxiety. If we can embrace these ideas of ‘responsible capitalism’ as the business model we use to build from the pandemic, it may give some meaning to the tragedy of this year. Finally, we’ve seen an incredible acceleration of creative output and entrepreneurial spirit through the pandemic. People have been really clever about finding ways to pivot their business or move rapidly to digital. At Walpole, we’re currently in the selection process for this year’s Brand of Tomorrow initiative, which provides networking and mentorship to the aspiring British luxury companies of the future. This year, we’ve seen such an incredible stream of new talent coming through and that speaks to the kind of creativity, enterprise, invention and entrepreneurship that really is a signature of British culture at its best. There’s no denying that the luxury sector has suffered this year but, I believe, it will prove to be the start of a cultural shift towards innovation and transformation, and a renaissance of creativity. thewalpole.co.uk
COLUMN
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GRAND DESIGN
Words: Michelle Johnson | Photographer: Mark Seliger
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Rock star, artist and designer Lenny Kravitz tells us why collaborating with Steinway & Sons on the new Kravitz Grand is the perfect representation of his life’s work 19
COMBINING MY MUSICAL WORLD AND MY EXPERIENCE WITH DESIGN – IT’S
A DREAM PROJECT
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DESIGN
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t the global launch of the Kravitz Grand, Steinway & Sons’ newest limited-edition grand piano, musician and designer Lenny Kravitz looks cool and casual in pinstripe shirt and white-rimmed shades as he speaks to us from the porch of his home in the Bahamas. On the screen next to him, Steinway’s president and CEO Ron Losby is perched on the bench of the piano itself, ready to give us the first live – albeit virtual – performance from the 165-year-old brand’s showroom in New York, the city where the evening’s host, Architectural Digest editor-in-chief Amy Astley, also resides. Journalists and attendees eager to see the piano in action – and its remarkable Spirio R recordingand-playback function – log in from London, the US and Europe. Yet, despite this virtual set up, which has become the norm in recent months, conversation flows easily – thanks in no small part to Kravitz’s effortless style and passion for his work. The 56-year-old is a Grammy Award-winning singer-songwriter, multi-instrumentalist, record producer and actor. Not content with dominating the entertainment world, he also founded Kravitz Design in 2003 – a conceptual architectural and interior design studio whose clients include Morgans Hotel Group, Leica, Swarovski Crystal, Dom Perignon and The Setai Group. Kravitz’s collaboration with Steinway & Sons is perhaps the most definitive look into Kravitz’s creative philosophy; a piece that combines his musical style and rich architectural designs. “When Steinway was interested in collaborating, I didn’t have to think twice about it,” Kravitz says. “Steinway is an institution, and to be able to combine my musical world and my experience with design – it’s a dream project.” The Kravitz Grand limited edition of 10 Model B Steinways – equipped with the brand’s revolutionary Spirio R – takes inspiration from African painting, sculpture and fabric designs via the Paris art scene of the 1920s. The piano itself features 15 layers of hard rock maple and rare Madagascar ebony, while its art deco and brutalist design elements include a “crackle” metallic finish on the plate and solid bronze castings for the pedal lyre and more. “I had the opportunity to express myself through this piano, and I wanted it to reflect where I was at that moment, and where I still am,” says Kravitz, who describes African art and brutalist furniture as “two very big staples” of his personal style. “I had just redone my house in Paris for a second time: it [ features] a lot of African sculptures and art. I wanted this piano to really reflect the entire character of the house.” »
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ARTISTIC RESONANCE If Steinway was surprised at the architectural direction in which Kravitz wanted to take the collaboration, they were soon won over by his vision and passion. “We immediately knew that we’d have the most unique limited-edition piano that Steinway & Sons had ever built,” says Losby. “We’ve collaborated with musicians and designers… but never had an experience of working with an individual who had both talents of design and musicianship. It’s a unique collaboration because Lenny is a musician; he understands the soul of this piano and his design work is so compelling.” For his part, Kravitz threw himself into the process, visiting the Steinway & Sons factory to meet the company’s craftspeople and learn about the creation of the piano over the course of its three-year manufacture. “Steinway was so supportive and gave me nothing but positive energy,” Kravitz says. “I ended up going to the factory, which completely blew my mind. That place is a temple, a museum. To meet all of these craftspeople and experts, it was fascinating. And then working with them on sculpting the legs, all the markings and carvings… Everyone involved was so positive. The only challenge was my own impatience – having to wait to finally see this thing.” It was in this sculpture and handcrafting stage that Kravitz’s decision to blend function with form truly came to life. “There are so many people who have pianos in their homes but don’t play them, and so a piano becomes a kind of sculpture; a piece of art in your home,” he says. “My favourite [design] feature on the piano is the legs. The whole thing is beautiful, but that was the first vision I had for the shape.” As far as his favourite musical features, Kravitz points immediately to Steinway’s Spirio R. This is a record-player feature capable of live performance capture and high-resolution recording and playback. As well as capturing the player’s own masterpieces, the Spirio also allows owners to listen to performances by the world’s greatest pianists for pleasure or practise. “I love the fact that you can have this in your house and hear live music. It’s such a luxury,” says Kravitz. “As far as being a musician, there’s nothing that I could tell Steinway that would make their pianos perform better; they are the experts. The only thing I got involved with on the inside of the piano was the tone of the harp.”
THE PIANO IS A SCULPTURE; A PIECE OF ART IN YOUR HOME – Lenny Kravitz
Sculpture of sound: The Kravitz Grand is inspired by African art and brutalist architecture MUSICAL JOURNEY Kravitz’s love affair with the piano started when he was a child in Manhattan, living in a small apartment with his parents, news producer Sy Kravitz and actress Roxie Roker. “In the corner of our living room was a very small spinet piano. My mother could only play one song: Beethoven’s Für Elise,” he recalls. While musician friends would visit and play the piano, Kravitz developed a fascination with the sound of it, and was soon sent to music classes at Harlem School of the Arts (HSA). Kravitz was 11 when his mother was cast in her breakout television role, as Helen Willis in The Jeffersons, and moved the family to Los Angeles. Roker encouraged Kravitz to audition for the California Boys Choir, where he discovered “the classical world” – as well as his first Steinway. “I sang with the Metropolitan Opera, did concerts with the Los Angeles Philharmonic with great conductors, and started to become familiar with the legendary Steinway piano. When I was making my first album in 1988, my engineer had a Steinway Model B grand piano from the early 1920s. I bought that piano from him, and it’s featured on every album I’ve ever made since.” That Model B is, in fact, installed in the home studio at Kravitz’s Bahamas residence. Since that debut record, Let Love Rule, Kravitz has gone on to make 11 studio albums – winning four consecutive Grammy Awards for best male rock vocal performance from 1999 to 2002 – and enjoyed supporting roles in films such as Precious, The Butler and The Hunger Games. His design credentials are as impressive – his love of mixing opulent materials with cultural touches can be seen in Kravitz Design’s latest project, 75 Kenmare Street, a collection of luxury condominiums in Nolita, New York. The chic district in Lower Manhattan is a world away from his musical beginnings in Harlem but, unbeknown to Kravitz, Steinway & Sons has enjoyed a decade-long educational involvement with HSA. Honouring their mutual relationship, Steinway will donate a portion of Kravitz Grand sales to the school. “I took music classes at Harlem School of the Arts when I was a small child. It gave me a foundation,” says Kravitz. “I didn’t know that Steinway was involved [with the school]. I’m so pleased that good will be done for the Harlem school yards. I’m looking forward, actually, to getting reacquainted.” This return to his roots is the icing on the cake for Kravitz who, it’s clear, approaches all things with an artist’s eye and songwriter’s passion for experience. “When you’re coming up with creative things – whether it be a song or a piano – if you even get close to what you had envisioned in your mind’s eye, that’s great,” he says. “What’s absolutely amazing in this situation, is that the piano actually came out better than I had envisioned. It exceeded my vision.” steinway.com 22
DESIGN
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The London gallery supporting the next generation of Banksys
Red Eight Gallery’s creative director Matthew Admans talks about why the art world needs to support rising stars as we look towards a post-Covid-19 world
“Energy and grit”: Art by Panik (above) and Tiger by Youssef Boubekeur (right)
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espite a tumultuous year for the art world, over the past 12 months Red Eight has cemented its position as London’s fastest-growing gallery and is about to open a stunning new space in the City’s coveted Royal Exchange. Spearheading this transformation is creative director Matthew Admans (below left, with his dog Banksy), who discovered his vocation in the art world after an injury forced his early retirement from professional football. Why is it so important to support emerging artists right now? Since the start of the global pandemic we’ve seen unprecedented changes to the art world, with art fairs cancelled and galleries closed all over the globe. Artists, collectors and galleries have risen to the challenge of adapting to this new normal, but there is no doubt that the storm isn’t over yet. Here at Red Eight we specialise in discovering emerging talent and connecting these exceptional artists with passionate collectors. This is a rare opportunity to develop a personal connection with a rising star from the early stages of their career and watch them fulfill their potential. You just don’t get that kind of access when investing in Damien Hirst or other blue-chip artists. There’s also significant financial opportunity when it comes to investing in emerging artists, since their work will grow in value significantly as their career develops. This is what makes art such an exciting investment; you actually get to know the artist and own a unique piece of work that’s yours to display or keep in storage as you wish. During 2020 we’ve seen a real flourishing of emerging art, with many artists able to spend more time concentrating on their career and producing excellent work. With the dramatic turbulence we’ve seen on the stock market over the past year, and ongoing economic uncertainty expected as we head into 2021, now is a great time to diversify your portfolio by investing in the Banksys of tomorrow. 24
Any insider tips on hot artists to invest in right now? We’ve just signed a very talented young Parisian artist called Youssef Boubekeur, who works exclusively using a blue Biro. Youssef ’s subjects offer a nod to the humour and quirkiness of street art, regularly featuring animal heads imposed on to suit-wearing human bodies. Since he works with indelible ballpoint pen, there is no room for error. Any mistake must be incorporated into the art work, which gives his work a real tension between spontaneity and precision. We also work very closely with Panik, a Camden-born graffiti artist who made a name for himself in the noughties as co-founder of the ATG Crew. After several run-ins with the police, in recent years Panik has traded walls for canvases. Transferring their work from vast spaces on the street to the strict confines of canvas is something most street artists struggle to do. Panik is one of the few who has been able to make that leap while preserving the energy and grit of his graffiti roots. What’s the best way to start an art collection? My number one recommendation is to invest in art that you really like. The best way to do this is to find a good gallery to guide you, and to spend some time finding out about the artists you’re interested in. Having said that, you don’t need to restrict yourself to art that you’d like to hang on your wall, since these days it’s very easy to keep art in storage. At Red Eight, we also offer clients the unique opportunity to participate in corporate leasing and earn a regular, fixed income on their artworks. This works a little bit like property rentals with the art leased out to companies, restaurants, or hotels in return for a fixed fee. This can be a great way to build an art collection which actually generates an income for you and doesn’t require storage or hanging space. For more information about investing in art, please visit: redeightgallery.com
PARTNER FEATURE
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British Luxury Review
2020
Tempus speaks to British luxury’s best known brands about a remarkable and challenging year, and discovers what consumers and businesses alike can expect for 2021
WHAT DOES LUXURY MEAN TODAY?
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rom pandemic lockdowns to Brexit preparation, 2020 has been a year of new challenges – but the future is bright for lovers of luxury. At least, that’s the message we’re receiving from Britain’s favourite brands. In our first ever British Luxury Review, Tempus asks experts from 12 of the UK’s most prestigious brands – from Aston Martin to Princess Yachts, Cookson Adventures to Royal Salute – to shed some light on a year of seismic change and, in doing so, discovers a luxury landscape more focused on meaningful storytelling and fine craftsmanship than ever before. It paints a hopeful picture of who we are as a nation of consumers: swapping formality and excess for high-quality items that enhance our time together; demanding more sustainable and ethical behaviour from our favourite brands; and creating a future that values communication and authenticity in all its forms.
“Luxury consumers are re-establishing their priorities. They’ve endured periods of isolation from friends and families in 2020 – on top of restrictions on travel – and are now looking for experiences on a more private basis. More than ever, luxury means being able to spend meaningful time with your loved ones and create new memories in new corners of our world.” – Nick Davies, director of sales & projects, Cookson Adventures “People want honesty and consistency, to know that brands actually stand for something. They are looking for reliability… they want to know that our cars are built to order for customers. Luxury is individual and unique.” – Marek Reichman, executive vice president & chief creative officer, Aston Martin 26
FORECAST
Meaning of luxury: Aston Martin DBX (top left), Royal Salute (left) Barbour International (above) and The Conran Shop (below)
“Luxury consumers are looking for brands that they can trust. Barbour has a 126-year-old heritage and our customers always demand the highest standards… Consumers are also turning to online retail and a seamless digital experience is essential as shopping on the web should be just as special as shopping in store.”
“The association of luxury with flashy logos, stuffy imagery and short-lived seasonal trends has been dropped and replaced by a new set of values and an appreciation of authenticity… This is the universal truth of luxury today; the power it has to evoke emotion.”
– Steve Buck, managing director, Barbour
– Mathieu Deslandes, Global Marketing Director, Ballantine’s & Royal Salute
“Consumers are looking for quality and convenience without compromise. This is why, in 2020, we launched Huntsman at Home… The mixing of traditional bespoke personal service with technology allows us to overcome the limitations of time and travel.”
“Luxury consumers [want] timeless pieces that have a real purpose and add value to their lives. They are looking for brands that engage and inspire on a deeper level and, with the rise of omnichannel purchases, exclusive and personalised digital content.”
– Taj Phull, head of retail, Huntsman
– Hugh Wahla, CEO, The Conran Shop
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A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE “Consumers have become more aware than ever that everyone needs to play their part in being environmentally responsible. Shopping purchases are becoming more considered and customers are moving away from fast fashion to timeless, investment pieces that will last.” – Steve Buck, managing director, Barbour “The world is reorienting itself around environmental impact, and industries and governments are now taking great leaps in the right direction. Within the next 24 months [Princess] will reduce our carbon emissions in manufacturing by over 20%… Our clients are totally behind us on this approach, and more and more requests are coming for alternatives to conventional boat building materials and propulsion systems.” – Kiran Jay Haslam, chief marketing officer, Princess Yachts “2020 has been a wake-up call for the world in terms of how we live now and in the future. Sustainability has long been at the forefront of our minds at Northacre. We strive to work with partners with the same sustainable values and ensure that our buildings are built to last using the very best techniques and sustainable materials.” – Niccolò Barattieri, CEO, Northacre
“Customer expectations and commitments when it comes to conscious consumption are higher than they’ve ever been, and it is a brand’s responsibility to not only align with but exceed these expectations. We’ve been working hard to ensure sustainability is intertwined into the Smythson ethos: leaving a positive legacy, minimising our environmental impact and preserving our craftsmanship for generations to come.” – Xavier Rougeaux, CEO, Smythson “Sustainability is crucial. Huntsman has worked in a sustainable format for more than 170 years: we source from small local mills and suppliers and have little waste from our bespoke services. We are constantly working to move towards a zero-waste initiative.” – Taj Phull, head of retail, Huntsman “Consumers are looking for brands that are taking the lead in driving positive change today, without compromising the future, and making a meaningful contribution to their lifestyles… Brands need to ensure their operations are environmentally and ethically friendly.” – Hugh Wahla, CEO, The Conran Shop “The shift in language from ‘climate change’ to ‘climate crisis’ is something that reverberates in everyone. The luxury spirits category has seen social and environmental issues become an increasingly essential talking point.” – Mathieu Deslandes, Global Marketing Director, Ballantine’s & Royal Salute
Feel-good future: (Clockwise from right) Huntsman, Ettinger and fine whiskies
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HOPES FOR THE YEAR AHEAD “The biggest challenge for us [in 2020] has been accessing our customers who have been nervous coming into cities, so we have been finding ways to visit them – for example, taking our Fortnum’s picnics with champagne and jewels. My hopes for 2021 remain high: we have fantastically loyal customers, wonderful staff and jewellery designs that people seem to like.” –– Michael Wainwright, managing director, Boodles “As a family business we can be flexible and responsive – but it is the team that has pulled together... It is their tenacity, skill diversification and clear-thinking that has overcome so many hurdles and it is their ability to share and contribute to so many tasks that has pulled us through.” – Robert Ettinger, CEO, Ettinger “The biggest pivot we’ve made is around staying connected to our consumers in a personal and engaging way. A great example of this was our [digital] participation in Feis Ile, the famed whisky festival on the Isle of Islay in Scotland that was cancelled due to Covid-19. Our hopes for 2021 are to see our Scotch whisky brand teams continue to be creative in the way they connect with consumers in the online space until we are able to socialise in person once again.” – Jocasta Pana, global head of prestige, Diageo “I believe, and hope, we’ll see the trend towards more meaningful travel continue into 2021. Longer stays, more engagement with local people and conservation projects, and travel being used as a tool to learn more about the world we live in today.” – Nick Davies, director of sales & projects, Cookson Adventures “I think we will see the lifting of restrictions and a surge towards normality, but keeping some of the prior [Covid-19 inspired] behaviours; such as more trust in buying online. This is why belief in a brand’s offering is so important. I am also looking forward to Aston Martin having its own Formula 1 team in 2021.” – Marek Reichman, executive vice president and chief creative officer, Aston Martin
Visit tempusmagazine.co.uk to read our contributors’ reviews in full 29
Celebrating half a century since its creation, the story of the Range Rover’s legendary rise is a tale worth telling. Heading to Goodwood Motor Circuit, we get to grips with 50 years of off-road icons at a very special birthday party Words: Rory FH Smith
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n the 1950s and ’60s, Land Rovers were simple. Created to help tend the land, work hard and go anywhere, the boxy, bug-eyed beast was a familiar and much-loved face the world over. With its army surplus paint job, no-frills functionality and simple mechanics, it was a four-wheeled representation of postwar Britain – tough, plucky and reassuringly straightforward. With sales ticking along nicely for the best part of 20 years, there seldom seemed a reason to spice up the recipe. But times were changing. With the world starting to shake off the impact of the war and economies regaining strength, a newly minted middle class emerged with hopes, dreams and the means to pay for them. While the trusty, no-fuss Land Rover formula had worked for the best part of two decades, Spencer King – then managing director of the Rover Company – and his design engineer Gordon Bashford sensed something new was needed. Enter the Velar in 1969. Taken from the Italian word velare – meaning to veil or cover – the word was chosen as the codename for the new, up-market Land Rover project before it hit the road. Although the Midlands-based marque had been toying with the idea of a more sophisticated four-wheel-drive since the early 1950s – developing prototypes under the Road Rover name – it wasn’t until the late 1960s that the recognisable shape started to form. “It was originally conceived for the American market,” says former Land Rover employee and enthusiast Roger Crathorne, otherwise known as Mr Land Rover. “We were chasing the likes of the Ford Bronco and Jeep Wagoneer, which were doing quite well.” Across the pond, US manufacturers were upping the stakes in a newly established class, one that would
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YOU COULD USE THE RANGE ROVER ON THE FARM IN THE DAY BUT THEN GO TO THE OPERA IN IT COME THE EVENING
become known as the Sports Utility Vehicle or SUV. Blending off-road ability with comfort and refinement, these models were making their mark on the North American market. “We were under a lot of pressure at the time from our managing cirector in the US office, a chap called Bruce McWilliams, who urged us to improve the base Land Rover, which traditionally came equipped with a 2.25-litre petrol engine.” McWilliams had spotted an opportunity for a more developed and refined take on the rough and ready Land Rover. “He converted a shortwheel base Land Rover to house a V8 engine, added some flashy paintwork and chrome and presented it to us,” says Crathorne. While it was far from what the Range Rover would eventually become, the idea struck a chord with Spencer King and, in 1967, the first prototype rolled out. By 1969, the car was all but finished. Still bearing the Velar badge, all that was needed was a marketable name for the new machine. “During the design process, there were a lot of names put forward for production. We were asked if we could improve on the list and Range Rover just fell into place so nicely,” says Crathorne. With everything in place, the Range Rover was unveiled to press in Cornwall on 17 June. Unbeknown to King and Bashford, they had created one of the most iconic cars in motoring history. »
Clockwise from top left: 1970 Range Rover logo, the classic model in Morocco, and a press still from its launch; The 1994 edition off-road; 1970s wash-down velour interior; the 1982 Range Rover in Vogue Automatic 33
POWER AND COMFORT Roll on half a century from that moment and I find myself in the original Range Rover’s greatgrandson, enjoying an in-seat massage on a crisp autumn day. Neatly arranged ahead of me sit 50 Range Rovers spanning five decades, lined up in front of the gates to the Goodwood race circuit. Celebrating the range’s birthday in true style, all 50 cars are embarking on a lap of the famed motor circuit in a chronological convoy. Of course, I’m dead last in my car of choice – the Range Rover Fifty. A special edition created to celebrate the automotive icon’s half-century. Up in front, there’s everything from world-recordholding one-offs and an armour-plated car, to a stretch limousine and a six-wheeled off-roading beast. Even the Queen’s former Range Rover has come along, finished in a stately shade of green. With plenty of time to take in my immediate surroundings, I can see clearly that the Range Rover has moved on a fair bit over the decades. Originally designed to be hosed down inside and out, the first iteration had a plastic dashboard, velour seats and rubber floor mats. It was exactly what King had intended it to be back in the 1960s – a slightly more luxurious version of the Land Rover. Now, far from a wash-down interior, my car features a five-litre supercharged V8 engine, 22in rims, a plush leather interior, two 10in touchscreens, massage seats, ambient lighting, air purification and a 1,700w 29-speaker Meridian stereo. While the first Range Rover provided simple pleasures including a heater and radio, the latest iteration offers up Bentley levels of comfort, Rolls-Royce ride quality and true limousine luxury in the back. But all that comes at a cost. Limited to 1970 examples (no prizes for guessing where that number came from), the Range Rover Fifty starts from £109,000 and
quickly rises with a few options ticked. “When you think the first ones were just under £2,000 – it’s changed quite a bit,” says Philip Bashall, owner of the Dunsfold Collection, the largest collection of Land Rovers in the world. “In the old days you could hose it out and use it on the farm in the day but then go to the opera in it come the evening… it’s the definition of luxury and elegance.” Since the debut of the very first model in 1970, the Range Rover has proved a runaway success, thanks in part to the car’s epic adventures and notable achievements. One year after its launch, the Range Rover managed to work its way into the Louvre Museum in Paris, as a leading example of industrial design. The following year, a crack team of soldiers drove two of them from Anchorage, Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, Argentina – crossing the notoriously impassable Darien Gap in Colombia en route. Since then, it’s made its way across the Sahara desert, won the London to Sydney Marathon, topped 27 speed records in its diesel guise and won the ParisDakar rally – twice. But it’s not all about publicity stunts. Still proudly sporting its signature clamshell bonnet, floating roof, split tailgate and trademark front fender vents, it easy to see how the Range Rover has become an icon both in and outside of the automotive world. What started life as a niche venture into a new and emerging car class held its ground over 50 years to become a soughtafter social statement. While its price tag and status might have risen in the past five decades, the Range Rover rightfully retains its place in motoring history – as the undisputed king of the off-road. landrover.co.uk
Evolution of style: Details from the limited edition Range Rover Fifty and, far right, the new model with the original 1970 Classic Range Rover 34
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SPIRIT OF CREATIVITY Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne takes us on an exclusive tour of the brand’s Paris atelier to find out how her tribute to nature captured a new world of haute jewellery Words: Judy Cogan
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WHEN NATURE AND JEWELLERY ARE HARMONISED, THEIR BEAUTY IS MAXIMISED
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he world of high jewellery is built on a reputation of spectacularly grand adornments – gobstopper-sized stones cut to make the mouth water, dazzlingly detailed workmanship and brilliant diamonds that pave smooth curves of gold. Precious objects of beauty traditionally worn for a whisper of a night before being swept into a secure safe in a closeted boudoir. To be admired, but not lived in. Boucheron, the French high jewellery house and watchmaker located at 26 Place Vendôme in Paris, begs to differ. “We create pieces made for women and men who wear jewellery as a way to express themselves and tell the true story in their own style,” says creative director Claire Choisne. “They enjoy being free and independent. And, most importantly, they understand the creative spirit of the maison.” Boucheron unveils its new Signature High Jewelry collection in Paris in January 2021, selecting pieces from the maison’s archives in order to reinterpret them. “The collection allows women and men to express their own style and personality,” she says. But, with no red carpet events or gala dinners to adorn since the Covid-19 pandemic gripped the world, Choisne has taken the time to consider her own creative spirit carefully. “I had the chance to spend the first lockdown in my home in Portugal surrounded by the forest and the sea,” she recalls. “This time of difficulty really made me focus on what is important. We were all scared but, for me, it was a good time to reflect, to appreciate the simple things and focus on being calmer.” INSPIRED BY NATURE It just so happens the latest Boucheron collection, Contemplation, unveiled last July, was inspired by a need to slow down and seek solace in nature. The theme was actually decided upon three years ago, but couldn’t be more relevant now. “At that time, I felt I needed to recharge my batteries, to slow down from this crazy rhythm in which we all live in our work,” she says. “I had the feeling nature could help me and others to calm down. I wanted to pay tribute to nature.” Choisne also drew inspiration from moments of contemplation she savoured on a trip to Naoshima in Japan discovering outdoor works of art by James Turrell and Tadao Ando. The natural beauty of the Salar de Uyuni salt plain in Bolivia also features. “Once a year in the spring it is covered by rainwater and forms a mirror in which the sky is reflected,” she says. “It feels extremely poetic and peaceful.” This is not the first time Choisne has turned to nature as a theme for a collection. Flower petals were introduced for the first time in the 2018 collection Nature Triomphante, to create flower-shaped rings that immortalised real petals into eternal pieces of jewellery. Choisne
drafted in French environmental artist and “petalist” Claire Boucl to help create her “dream” design and came up with the idea of putting the flowers through an MRI scanner at a French hospital. “It shows we are open to using tools that are not typically used to make jewellery. The process was very technical, but it is just magical when you look at it.” Evidence of this shines in the masterpieces from Contemplation – including the Goutte de Ciel necklace, which “captures a part of the sky and puts it into a piece of jewellery.” It’s crafted from rock crystal paved with diamonds and set with a drop of rock crystal in white gold and aerogel – a light-as-air material used in space by NASA and whose colour changes with the light. The spectacular Nuage en Apesanteur necklace came from a dream Choisne had to create a cloud of diamonds levitating around a woman’s neck. “We wanted to have the real aerial effect of a cloud with all its extreme delicateness and lightness,” she says. The structure is made up of 10,000 hair-thin titanium threads capped with 5,000 diamonds and a scattering of tiny glass beads that simulate the droplets of water that make up a cloud. A computer programmer was brought in to create an algorithm that allowed the design team to create clouds in 3D. “We didn’t even start from a drawing but from a mock-up, a cotton cloud on a bust. The threads are so soft and fine that they give the impression of a foamy texture. It was extremely challenging to achieve.” Nature, Choisne says, is part of Boucheron’s DNA. “When nature and jewellery are harmonised into one, their beauty is maximised. It’s is a theme that we will continue to interpret.”
than two years to complete from the first sketch to the finished line of around 50 pieces. This original creative process, driven by technical and artistic innovation, is most readily apparent in Boucheron’s Atelier, still on the top floor of the maison, where both 19th-century techniques and modern technology are used. At least 1,000 hours of workmanship go into each piece, with more complicated bespoke pieces taking longer. Choisne joined Boucheron in 2011 and draws much inspiration from the maison’s 160-year-old archives; she looks to the past before interpreting signature designs into contemporary pieces. “When I started out, my inspiration was Frédéric Boucheron and I still have him in my head when I design,” she says. “For me he really pushed the boundaries. The Question Mark necklace was groundbreaking – to have that idea, at that time, was bold. He designed it with women in mind.” When creating a collection, Choisne believes it is important to take Boucheron’s visionary mind and his philosophy of “being free to create new things” forward. Last year she unveiled Paris, vu du 26 (“Paris as seen from number 26”), inspired by the City of Lights and Boucheron’s maison at 26 Place Vendôme. The maison’s central staircase and the ancient cobble stones outside were also major inspirations. Another, perhaps surprising, inspiration was Wladmir, the pet cat of Gérard Boucheron, Frederic’s grandson. “Wladimir is very important in the company,” says Choisne. “He lived in Place Vendôme and would wander around the atelier. I continue to be amazed by the maison, it is a truly magical place.” A place, indeed, that has the power to make us all stop and reflect.
A QUESTION OF TASTE Having celebrated its 160th anniversary in 2018, Boucheron has always been a modern maison ahead of its time. In 1893, Frédéric Boucheron was the first jeweller to open a boutique on Place Vendôme, which has become the epicentre of high jewellery design in Paris, now shared with the likes of Van Cleef & Arpels, Mikimoto, Dior, Chanel and Gucci. Starting out, Boucheron aimed to create jewellery as supple as the cloths his father had worked with as a draper. He was the first to “pleat” gold for his Delilah necklace, while his 1879 Question Mark necklace was revolutionary thanks to the way it could be rolled around a woman’s neck without assistance. It earned him the gold medal at the Universal Exhibition of 1889 in Paris and a name for being a jeweller for free, independent women. Today, Choisne and Boucheron CEO Hélène Poulit-Duquesne run the brand together, and the creative synergy between the two women is said to be at the heart of its magic. The pair agree wholeheartedly on the importance of storytelling across collections, which are presented in different chapters and take more
uk.boucheron.com
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Inspired by nature: Claire Choisne (left); Murmuration from the Contemplation Collection (right); Boucheron's Paris atelier (above right)
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THE MODERN MAN As the world turns irreversibly away from fast fashion – and unethical clothing becomes ever more a fashion faux pas – Tempus celebrates sustainable style in our exclusive photoshoot, starring model Oliver Cheshire Words: Michelle Johnson | Photography: Ian Gavan
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utside the glamorous Blakes Hotel London in South Kensington, model and designer Oliver Cheshire leans stylishly against a classic Aston Martin 1970s V8 Volante as photographer Ian Gavan artfully dodges the light afternoon traffic to capture the shot. Cheshire looks suitably sharp in his high fashion fare – houndstooth sports coat and cream linen trousers by Richard Anderson, his look completed by a John Smedley black rollneck – but, look closer, and the classic 1960s-esque sports look gives way to a far more modern sensibility. Whether using locally-sourced or recycled materials, or creating a zero-waste production method, these are just two of the highend brands changing the face of men’s fashion. And going green doesn’t mean a drop in quality or attitude, as seen from fabric and fashion house Dashing Tweeds’ bold fabrics, all created sustainably at English mills – when they’re not hand-weaving them from their London atelier, that is. From brand new materials like econyl to sneakers made from recycled rubber tyres, recent years have seen something of an ethical fashion revolution. No longer is sustainability confined to just a few niche brands. Rather, it is embraced by and demanded from the biggest fashion labels on the planet – from Prada and Canali to Stella McCartney and Marc Jacobs.Tempus steps into the shoes, suits and trousers of the remarkable brands making a positive impact on the environment – step by finely crafted step.
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FROM BRAND NEW MATERIALS LIKE ECONYL TO SNEAKERS MADE FROM RECYCLED RUBBER TYRES, RECENT YEARS HAVE SEEN DESIGNERS EMBRACING AN ECO-FASHION REVOLUTION.
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Previous: Cheshire wears a made-to-measure peak lapel two-piece suit by Dashing Tweeds, zero waste Beauford funnelneck in navy by Peregrine, Anderson & Sheppard gloves in dark red suede and a Longines Master Collection 40mm from the exclusive Bucherer Blue collection. Left: Breton striped wool sweater by Marc Jacobs x Armor-Lux (ethically produced marinewear brand), with Aleksandar pleated trousers in check by Kit Blake, dark 43
brown nappa aviator jacket by Canali and Viu glasses. Above: John Smedley turtleneck (made at Lea Mills, England, where the brand’s environmental policy includes lowering carbon emissions and water consumption) with a bespoke pink DB dinner jacket by Savile Row’s Anderson & Sheppard. Wool peak design trousers and flat cap, both Dashing Tweeds, Canali shoes and Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon 42mm from the exclusive Bucherer Blue collection. »
Left and right: Linen work jacket and cotton trousers by Anderson & Sheppard and royal blue B by Ben Sherman recycled cotton T-shirt. Finished with olive 100% sustainable vegan sneakers by Yatay, Shaun Gordon pocket square, Viu glasses and Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 watch. Centre: A racing green travel jacket by Anderson & Sheppard perfectly matches Fishtail Trousers Penton Cord by socially conscious brand Oliver Spencer. Complete the look with a crisp white recycled cotton shirt by Fillipa-K, tan Dalton sneakers by Church, and Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition watch. Âť 44
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This page: Tailored Green Hopsack Coat and Trousers by sustainable Savile Row tailor Richard Anderson, and Merino wool jumper in dark green by Anderson & Sheppard. Viu glasses. Top right: Organic cotton T-shirt by slow fashion maestros Sundog Clothing, with suede button-through jacket in navy by Anderson & Sheppard and glasses as above. Bottom right: Two-piece suit by Qasimi paired with Belafont shirt made of 100% lyocell by Cheshire’s sustainable clothing label, Ché. Completed by Oliver Spencer shoes and GIGI Studios sunglasses. »
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Oliver Cheshire is a model, fashion writer and founder of sustainable clothing label Ché. Oliver, how did your passion for sustainability come about? It was when I was getting ready to launch Ché last year that I started learning more about sustainability, and how important it’s become in recent years. The quality of the eco-friendly materials we looked at was so good, I knew it would be crazy not to bring that concept through the whole brand. We’ve got big summer plans for next year, which I’m excited about. Did you have any favourite pieces on our shoot? My favourite piece was the electric blue suit by Dashing Tweeds. I haven’t done a fully sustainable shoot before. It was a lovely experience to wear these pieces and really get a feel of the textures and new materials that brands are working with. As a London Fashion Week correspondent have you seen a change in big brands? Definitely; sustainability is the hot word of the season and is here to stay. I love what Prada did in 2019 by introducing fabrics like econyl (regenerated nylon) for bags and archived pieces for their collection. It’s difficult for brands to be 100% sustainable, but there are so many elements – from materials to offsetting waste – that can move us all closer to the end goal, step by step. How can consumers help drive the fashion market? Consume less and buy better. As consumers, we’re more aware of our impact than ever and we want to make good choices. Don’t be afraid to try new materials – recycled coffee cups or carpet from a landfill might not sound very luxurious but when you actually touch these fabrics and learn more about them it’s a totally different experience. 47
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Main: Aston Martin 1970s V8 Volante. Singlebreasted houndstooth sports coat and cream linen suit trousers both by Richard Anderson. Braddock classic rollneck by John Smedley (who works closely on waste reduction initiatives with London College of Fashion and Kering). White Yatay 100% sustainable shoes, Viu glasses, a Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph and ivory duffel bag by Canali. Below: Breton striped wool sweater with side shoulder fastening by Marc Jacobs x Armor-Lux, Aleksandar trousers by Kit Blake and Panerai Luminor Power Reserve 47mm timepiece.
Styling: Joseph Crone. Styling assistants: Ginger & Georgia. Hair and make-up: Harsha Chavda. Coordinated by: Georgia Peck. Art direction: Ross Forbes. With thanks to: Blakes Hotel London, Dylan Miles Automobiles 49
TAKING FLIGHT Decorative and desirable, the tourbillon has long been a benchmark of collectible complications. Tempus gathers the most exciting examples of today’s gravity-defying prestige timepieces
Words: Chantelle Billson
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hen it comes to modern haute horology, the tourbillon has long been more desirable for its beauty than for its practical uses. The first patented tourbillon was developed by Swiss watch house Breguet in 1801, but ever more decorative and complicated variations, such as double axis and flying tourbillon, have since followed. The tourbillon was originally developed to compensate for the effects of gravity on the movements of a watch – that, by mounting the escapement, balance and spring mounted in a tiny cage, which rotates on its axis, the watch maintains its single average rate for all its vertical positions – allowing you to keep perfect time. A masterpiece of engineering, adaptations only add to the visual spectacle. The flying tourbillon – characterised by its ability to ‘float’ above the movement thanks to the cage’s lack of an upper bridge – has been one of the most beloved adaptations since it was invented by Alfred Helwig, at the Glashütte School of Watchmaking, in 1920. Fast-forward to 2020 and the tourbillon remains a remarkable show of watchmaking excellence and is, perhaps, the most decadent accessory of all. Here, we take a look at some of the most covetable tourbillon timepieces to add to your collection.
H Moser & Cie X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon In a limited edition of 15 pieces, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, released in June 2020, is a celebratory collaboration between H Moser & Cie and horological machine specialists MB&F to mark their decade-long friendship and shared 15th anniversary. This threedimensional work of art is a uniquely collectable timepiece. Inside its cylindrical sapphire crystal face sits a one-minute flying tourbillon and off-centred inclined clear sapphire dial, placed at an angle to ensure only to the wearer is able to read the sub-dial – which floats spectacularly above the watch’s iced blue fumé face. » h-moser.com
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Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia Limited to a single exclusive piece priced at $858,500 (£784,500), the breathtaking Excalibur Superbia is one of the most decadent timepieces of 2020. Describing the novelty as “the epitome of excess”, Roger Dubuis presents not one but two flying tourbillon in its Caliber RD0108SQ – making for an animated dial set against the brand’s distinctive skeletonised star. Designed in collaboration with interior designer Kaz Shirane, the timepiece features a palladium and white gold case set with 600 tetrahedron-cut diamonds and sapphires, invisibly set on the curved surfaces of the flange, bezel, case and crown – a feat that took around 900 hours to complete by hand. rogerdubuis.com
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WATCHES
Omega De Ville Central Tourbillon Numbered Edition Described by Omega as a “wearable work of art”, the 2020 De Ville Tourbillon was released just in time for the brand’s 100th anniversary as a limited-edition numbered production. Priced at £168,000, this exquisite novelty is the first Omega manual winding central tourbillon to be certified a co-axial master chronometer, able to resist up to 15,000 gauss magnetic fields. Powered by a Calibre 2640 movement, the watch’s bezel, bridges and main plate are all cast in hand-polished 18K Sedna gold. The movement features a three-day power reserve indicator, which is visible through the sapphire crystal case-back. The case itself is crafted from a blend of 18K Sedna gold and Canopus gold, with the brand’s logo, lettering and hour markers in the same material. » omegawatches.com
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon combines two of the brand’s most stand- out complications – a triple moon phase indicator and a traditional tourbillon – together for the very first time. A complex self-winding movement is housed in a timeless, eggshell-white matte dial, featuring subtle raised hour-markers and the brand’s ‘jumping date’ indication around the bezel. Its striking sapphire crystal face and case-back showcase the spectacle of its intricate complications, while the new ‘le grand rose’ (pink gold alloy) case is resistant to wear. The finishing touch is the ageless alligator strap, adding to the undeniable class of this latest piece. jaeger-lecoultre.com
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WATCHES Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon features both an automatic flying tourbillon and self-winding mechanism, and is available in three different references – including a rare grade five titanium edition, featuring a slate grey dial with new sandblasted central surface. The model is also available in stainless steel with blue dial and 18k pink gold with smoked grey dial, both of which feature a refined guilloché dial with an ‘evolutive tapisserie’ pattern introduced in 2018. The in-house calibre 2950 is visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, while the open-worked oscillating weight is formed from pink gold or rhodium-toned pink gold, depending on the version. An additional first for the Royal Oak collection is the applied 24k gold Audemars Piguet signature, achieved through galvanic growth – a chemical process similar to 3D printing and applied by hand. audemarspiguet.com
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LIFESTYLE
THE PERSONAL TOUCH
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Embrace the movement to ‘shop small’
s the world takes a momentary pause, our focus falls more than ever on how we shop. In cities across the globe, we’re now seeing a move towards shopping small, built on an appreciation of how important it is to support local and independent brands. Each led by an individual artisan, these luxury brands create covetable products distinguished by their personal touch.
by seeking out the luxury sphere’s most exciting independent brands Words: Lauren Jade Hill
FRANK HORN | LEATHERCRAFT Frank Horn started out as a hobby. For Uzo Okwuosa (left) — the founder of the Frank Horn brand, which takes its named from Francis (Uzo’s middle name as well that of his father and grandfather) and the interest he had for making objects from horn before specialising in leathercraft — a fledging fascination for craft quickly grew to become a brand offering what he refers to as neo-luxury handmade leather goods. When asked what sets his brand apart, Okwuosa describes it as honest. “It is my journey in not only learning and understanding the craft, but realising my own artistic expression through it,” he says. “When I think about how I was exposed to leathercraft – by watching street cobblers in Nigeria – I often imagine what greater quality they could have achieved had they had more tools and materials at their disposal. As an inspiration, that was also a personal challenge in furthering my skills as a self-taught leather crafter.” Okwuosa takes pride in designing and making items such as Italian vegetable tanned messenger bags with brass accents, many of which are bespoke, for his brand’s clients across the globe. From leather diaries to hand-dyed wallets in deep shades of burgundy and green, each Frank Horn embossed creation is handmade by Okwuosa in his Abbey Road studio in London. For Okwuosa, supporting small brands and independent makers is about supporting creativity, uniqueness and, most importantly, the people that build and enrich local communities. “Small brands like mine offer something unique, away from the mass-marketed norms that many have gotten used to. The service and products offered by independent makers tend to be a personal affair, which creates a different type of worth – people cherish what they know has been made especially for them.” » frankhorn.com 57
EMILY CARTER | SILK DESIGN Hand-illustrated and made using the bestquality fabrics of small British manufacturers, Emily Carter products are produced both ethically and sustainably. The award-winning designer, who also creates in-house designs for Harrods and exhibits at London and Paris Fashion Week each year, creates an array of silk accessories and home furnishings that bring to life detailed original drawings. Once printed on high-quality silk, each drawing becomes a luxury piece of British design. A part of the brand’s Limited Edition range of luxury items, the Baroque Tiger scarf reflects the inspiration Carter (right) takes from 17thand 18th-century French baroque design, while the Jewel Gem design integrates coloured gemstones into intricate patterns. The recent launch of Emily Carter Studio means designs like these are now also available as printed textiles for bespoke use. Sustainability and original design are at the forefront of Carter’s work and the value of craft is integrated into the production process. Products are printed in England, made by independent tailors in London and packaged using materials that are fully recyclable and plastic-free. Each product is designed to last a lifetime. “The word ‘craft’ signifies value,” says Carter. “It represents the importance of knowledge, skill and ingenuity involved in a creative process. For this reason I believe independent brands represent the true meaning of luxury. Independent brands provide a guarantee of quality and craftsmanship, along with a personal, authentic approach.” emily-carter.co.uk
THE WORD CRAFT SIGNIFIES VALUE. IT REPRESENTS AN IMPORTANCE OF KNOWLEDGE, SKILL AND INGENUITY IN A CREATIVE PROCESS
RICHARD BRENDON | TABLEWARE Product designer Richard Brendon founded his namesake brand out of a passion for celebrating and preserving the craftsmanship of heritage industries. Since then, he has gone on to create tableware collections fusing traditional techniques with modern artisanal design, work with hotels such as Rosewood, Four Seasons and Gleneagles, and embrace the power of design collaboration for unique items. “Typically, when asked to imagine cut crystal and bone china, traditional design often springs to people’s minds. Not only this, but often the bone china and cut crystal we’re thinking of is locked away in some sort of glass cabinet. I wanted to create products that use these traditional materials and techniques, but with the addition of a timeless design,” says the Notting Hill native. “Hopefully this brings to the forefront of people’s minds the craftsmanship that goes into each piece and how the products can be enjoyed.” 58
The studio works with craftspeople in Stoke-on-Trent who hand-make bone china using techniques passed down through generations. The same applies to glass blowers in Slovenia, who work based on the instinct they’ve developed and a deep understanding of the material (left). These are the types of heritage crafts Brendon endeavours to showcase through contemporary products ranging from his Superstripe collection of tableware to glassware created in collaboration with wine critic Jancis Robinson. Always designing and conjuring up new ideas, Brendon is now working on new collections, with more collaboration on the horizon and always keeping what it is that makes his brand unique in mind. “Larger brands can often disregard the precise handmade detail that goes into each and every piece, but for us, that’s the beauty of our work,” he says. “We are incredibly proud to be independent and champion these skills.” richardbrendon.com
LIFESTYLE
ORMONDE JAYNE | FRAGRANCE Ormonde Jayne is now an established name in fine British perfumery. The brand’s luxury fragrances fill displays of prestigious stores, such as Fortnum & Mason and Harrods, as well as the flagship boutique on Old Bond Street (left) where you’ll often find the perfume house’s creator and founder Linda Pilkington. The brand’s products – from fragrances to candles – are made at the perfumer’s studio in Kent. British craftsmanship is as fundamental to these products as the personal touch, from the creation of the products to their packaging, while inspiration is taken from the perfumer’s years of global exploration in search of new aromas. Customers have the opportunity to personalise perfumes through the boutique’s made-to-measure service, while the brand recently launched it latest collection, La Route de la Soie, which celebrates Ormande Jayne’s journey so far, integrating ingredients from past discoveries as well as new inspirations from the Silk Route. The collection’s seven scents – including Byzance (above) – were launched throughout 2020. To this day, the perfumer takes pride in remaining independent, a factor that has given her the freedom to make bold decisions like making all of the brand’s perfumes gender-free. Pilkington believes that the independence and craftsmanship this brand champions has become more valued over the past year. “Independent luxury retailers are artisans and specialists in their field, which is highly respected internationally,” she says. “Retaining this creativity and diversity is critical.” ormondejayne.com 59
A feast for the senses Mourad Mazouz, the restaurateur behind MoMo, Sketch and new Mayfair eatery Mo Diner, tells Tempus about his eccentric aesthetic and putting his unique twist on an American institution Words: Chantelle Billson
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t was a trip to New York that revived Mourad Mazouz’s enduring love of the American diner and inspired his latest London venture, Mo Diner. The renowned restaurateur is the force behind Mayfair staples MoMo and Sketch (awarded its third Michelin star in 2020), as well as Derrière, Andy Wahloo and Le 404 in Paris. He is known for combining Michelin-quality North African cuisine with whimsical décor inspired by his artistic collaborations and Mo Diner, which brings new life to the original 1930s aesthetic, is no exception. “I was reading The New York Times and there was a feature on the disappearance of the diner,” Mazouz explains. “In the 1930s, diners were restaurants for workers.When I lived in Los Angeles from 1983 to ’84, I worked at Ma Maison, and would go to diners a lot. I used to love them.” Ma Maison, the infamous LA restaurant backed by Gene Kelly, was where chef Wolfgang Puck shot to fame with his California Nouvelle style. The glamorous establishment was often packed with celebrities and became well known for its “drunk lunches”. Combined with the contrast of the humble diner, it’s clear to see how these early influences may have shaped Mazouz’s irresistible style. Mazouz teamed up with creative director Brian Roettinger (of LA firm Willo Perron & Associates) and Michelin-starred chef Éric Chavot (of London’s Bob Bob Ricard fame) to bring his concept to life – originally sketched out as a “child-like” drawing. “I wanted a simple place; I didn’t want to create something new,” he says. “I wanted to copy what had already been done in the past.” Mo Diner finally launched in September 2020, on Heddon Street next to MoMo. Despite launching it during the pandemic, he remains optimistic despite uncertainty. “I reopened [my restaurants] on 23 September and closed again at the beginning of November. It has been a nightmare,” he says. “[The hospitality industry] has lost so much money. We’re so afraid that something will happen to us, but that’s life; we
need to fight to stay open – and make sure we continue to fight.” The close proximity of the two restaurants may even help, rather than creating new competition. “MoMo is a proper restaurant with big plates, whereas Mo Diner serves starter [dishes] that people tend to share. Me? I don’t like to share,” he laughs. “The menu is made for you to have three or four plates depending on how hungry you are.” French-born Chavot’s menu reinterprets some of Mazouz’s favourite dishes and cuisines – a mix from “the shores of the Mediterranean” with mouth-watering dishes from the south of France, Spain and Italy – along with the Algerian restaurateur’s signature North African twist, of course. “I wanted the diner to be laid-back, somewhere you can eat quickly and casually. I also wanted to serve surprisingly good food for the type of place that it is.” A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS Despite his growing empire, Mazouz insists he does not consider himself a businessman but, instead, remains humble of his achievements as a self-described “restauranteur and shopkeeper”. “I tend to do what makes me feel comfortable,” he says. “People think that I love design, but my home is as minimalist as it can be. I like everything basic and simple but, for my restaurants, it must please the public.” Despite this assertion, Mazouz’s unique and distinctly luxe aesthetic is a key ingredient to the success of his restaurants, whether the sensuous Moroccan ambience of MoMo or the quirky dining-as-event excitement of Sketch’s collaboration with artist David Shrigley. Mo Diner only adds to this reputation, from the pops of bright colour within the casual burger-joint
framework, to tongue-in-cheek details such as the many pictures of Mazouz posing with the likes of Andy Warhol and Brigitte Bardot (photoshopped, he says, as a joke for his close friends). These personal touches will be familiar to fans of Mazouz’s establishments, though it may be a surprise that, as a rule, he does not commission designers; rather, he invites friends in to help with specific elements. “What I don’t like about design is the lines,” he says. “I’m incapable of doing what the young people are doing – with the [exposed] pipes and lights hanging down from the ceiling. It looks so cool, but that’s not me. I need to finish everything to perfection. If you look at Mo Diner, I can show you mistakes that a designer wouldn’t make but, for me, these mistakes can add something special to a place. I am not a designer, I am a restaurateur.” Mazouz relies on his vision of the restaurant as a whole, which, he says, goes a long way in determining the look and feel. “For me a restaurant is like a daisy: the yellow in the middle is food, the main reason for a restaurant’s existence. The petals each represent another element: the lighting, reception, interior design, music, cutlery,” he says. “If I give you a daisy with five petals missing, you will be disappointed. To be beautiful, it needs to be almost complete. I think design should link to everything else.” His next project will add yet more blooms to the ever-growing bouquet he calls “MoMo World” – transforming the building adjacent to his Paris restaurants into 17 luxurious apartments for short- and long-term rental. “I even have space underneath that I might make into a diner – I will have fun again,” he says, though admits his plans are yet to be finalised. “I never have fixed ideas, so I can change something very last minute. A designer would never work like this but, for me, everything is done one by one.” A fitting mantra for Mazouz, for whom being able to work in collaboration with friends and artists to create a gateway into his world is the pinnacle of an all-round restaurateur who simply goes where the inspiration takes him. modiner.london
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SKIN DEEP Searching for glamorous gifts or stocking up for a new year of well-deserved self-care? Don’t look too far afield – British beauty is having a moment. These indulgent home-grown brands are guaranteed to provide all the pampering we need
Words: Lysanne Currie
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BEAUTY
“WE ARE GROUNDED, ROOTED AND INSPIRED BY BRITAIN”
and barley from Scotland – for its bath and shower products (above). “We are grounded, rooted and inspired by our land, culture and history.” Named for a 15th-century term for Great Britain, Noble Isle soon became Walpole’s 2016 Brand of Tomorrow. All Noble Isle products have suitably poetic names, including Willow Song (weeping willow bark and water lily from Lavenham Walk, Suffolk), Golden Harvest (English grape extracts from Kent) and Fireside (beetroot from Mynwy Valley, Wales) and are vegan, cruelty-free and come in fully recyclable packaging. During 2020, Noble Isle also launched hand sanitiser in two of its classic scents – Rhubarb Rhubarb! and Wild Samphire – with 10% of the proceeds donated to NHS Charities. There’s also a Noble Isle Christmas Collection for 2020, including Crème de Rhubarb and Fireside 3 Wick Candles, while the Scots Pine Collection, inspired by Scotland’s forests, will keep this winter smelling glorious. »
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oble Isle founder-director Katy Simpson was originally a buyer for several of the UK’s designer fashion houses. It was while working with perfume sets that she realised her passion for fragrances, and “the power it has over the senses.” Simpson explains: “There is nothing more compelling [than scent] to take your mind back to a person, a place or time in your life – it’s like time travel.” In 2001 she became head of product development for Molton Brown, leaving the corporate world in 2008 to work as a consultant for Miller Harris and then Occo. Four years later (and after 18 months development), she launched her brand, Noble Isle, into the sacred halls of Fortnum & Mason and Liberty. “I had a passion to produce something truly British,” she says. Noble Isle sources natural ingredients from celebrated UK producers – such as rhubarb from Yorkshire, sea oak from Ireland
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“WE ARE COMMITTED TO MINIMISING OUR IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT”
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ulldog was born in November 2005, after founder Simon Duffy entered a specialist New York store to buy some natural beauty products for his girlfriend and couldn’t find any natural male grooming products. “I thought, if I can’t find them in this store, in this city, then they probably don’t exist.” Back in the UK, his first break was when Sainsbury’s agreed to distribute Bulldog in 300 stores. It began exporting in 2010 and today is a global presence, sold in over 10,000 stores in 13 countries (including that New York store). It has a 50% share of the male skincare market in Sweden (compared with a none-too-shabby 20% market share of the UK), and a presence in Korea. In 2016, Bulldog’s holding company was sold to Edgewell Personal Care (owner of Wilkinson Sword), which helped it expand to 26 markets. The same year, Simon was awarded an MBE. Today, the brand sells everything from moisturisers to face scrubs, with ingredients such as algae (known for its moisturising and skin-softening properties), green caviar (used in Japanese skincare thanks to its hydrating properties) and rice – which, Duffy explains, "is widely known for its brightening properties and is rich in vitamin B.” Duffy’s personal favourite products are Bulldog’s Energising Moisturiser and Energising
Mask. “The gel-like formula in the moisturiser is hydrating and refreshing, while the nonbleached sheet mask is made from bamboo and great for brightening up your skin.” Its best-selling product is its Original Moisturiser, which was in the first range of six products that Bulldog launched in 2007. “It’s become an absolute hero item for the brand and something of a cult classic now,” says Duffy. “However, I do think it’s extremely important to be innovative.” Bulldog’s packaging is made from sustainable sugarcane plastic – making it the first male skincare brand in the world to use sugarcane as a raw material in its packaging – while its pump bottles (used for Foaming Shave Gels) have a special ‘airless’ mechanism to ensure there’s no product left inside the bottle. “Here at Bulldog we always try to do the right thing and we are committed to minimising our impact on the environment.” Meanwhile, Bulldog’s aforementioned Original Moisturiser (pictured) has now been certified as a CarbonNeutral product in the UK. Bulldog also supports the Acre Amazonian Rainforest Conservation project in Brazil, which promotes sustainability by preventing deforestation across 105,000 hectares of rainforest in the Amazon basin. So it’s not only kind to skin but to the environment, too. bulldogskincare.com
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THE BEST OF THE REST... SERENITY BOX CO SerenityBox Co is the UK’s first CBD subscription box company, founded in 2019 by Harrow couple, Michelle Da Silva and Damien Brome. It offers luxury CBD wellness boxes, with optional extras, such as the Autumn/Winter Day and Night Pro Boxes – the ideal wellbeing treat. serenityboxco.com SEAMS Seams Hand Cream was created by Karen J Gerrard while she was taking a millinery course at the London College of Fashion. She wanted a beauty cream for seamstresses that would help moisturise and soothe their dry, pin-pricked hands, but that wouldn’t transfer onto fabrics. seamsbeauty.co.uk MADE FOR LIFE ORGANICS The Cornwall-based Made for Life range is a series of hand-made botanical beauty and wellbeing products. It is also a BCorp Certified Company – the first UK spa brand to achieve this distinction. We love its Radiant Beginnings Christmas Collection. madeforlifeorganics.com
“I WANTED TO BUILD AN ETHICAL BUSINESS THAT COULD HELP PEOPLE”
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lā (with a small ‘i’, named after the Hindu goddess of truth and Sanskrit word for Earth) was founded in 2007 by Essexborn Denise Leicester. A qualified nurse, aromatherapist, yoga teacher, sound healer and holistic bodyworker, she has been described as a “spiritual philosopher” and “modern day alchemist”. Having spent time in Dubai nursing one of the UAE’s rulers, she’d begun incorporating essential oils into the sheikh’s treatment plan – the results, she says, “were incredible”. Returning home to the UK, she enrolled at London’s Institute for Complementary Medicine, before travelling in India, where she qualified as a yoga teacher. From her kitchen table in the Cotswolds, she and her husband began sourcing ingredients from remote parts of the world and, in 2007, created her “absolutely pure product range” with the intention “to bring purity, energy and balance into everyday life”. Addressing the stresses of modern living, bringing better sleep and renewed recovery via ranges such as Life in the Fast Lane and Inner Peace, it wasn’t long before the likes of Natalie Portman, Gwyneth Paltrow and Donna Karan – as well as spas worldwide – were stocking and extolling the virtues of her products. The company works directly with growers
and farmers to support local communities and “promote ancient knowledge”, while each ingredient is sustainably sourced for its physical, emotional and physical benefits. The vegan products – including the Gold Cellular Collection (above) – are blended by hand, using Ayurvedic traditions in peaceful Cotswolds barns, while the meditative sounds of Indian ragas play in the background. During 2020, ilā launched two new product lines: Helping Hand with Hormones, and a CBD collection that launched at Andronis Luxury Spa Santorini. The latter contains cannabidiol, a naturally occurring compound found in the cannabis plant with healing properties including anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects. The range includes CBD Face Cream, CBD Gold Face Serum and CBD Better Day Drops. The company is also doing its bit to tackle the pandemic, launching three hand sanitiser products; while a special Christmas range includes All is Calm, All is Bright Room Spray and Gold Illuminating Body Oil. Meanwhile, ilā offers healing retreats at Palais Aziza in Marrakech, has a dedicated spa at Manhattan’s Lotte Palace Hotel and has introduced the first of its own own locations, the 7-bedroom Maison ilā, in the Pyrenees Aude region of France –a whole world of pampering. ila-spa.com 65
ELEMENTS BOUTIQUE SPA Co-founded by spa gurus Sara Last and Nick Ridgment, this recently launched vegan skincare range is inspired by the herbs and flowers grown at the Somerset spa. The Bath and Body collection draws on the four elements and their ingredients help bees to thrive in the UK. elementsboutiquespa.co.uk MANCAVE Launched in 2012, ManCave has become a bestselling sustainable male grooming brand, comprising everything from moisturisers to beard oils. Ethical and cruelty-free, the range includes willowbark face wash, cedarwood shower gel and caffeine shampoo. mancaveinc.com MURDOCK LONDON Brendan Murdock opened his first barbershop in London’s Shoreditch in 2006 and went on to found Murdock London. As well as six elegant barbershops, Murdock now incorporates a grooming and skin care range, including such delights as Quince and Oakmoss shampoo, a beard conditioner and Black Tea bodywash. murdocklondon.com FAITH IN NATURE Founded by 74-year-old herbalist Rivka Rose after she moved from New York to Scotland in the early 1970s, this pioneering, highly ethical range uses 100% natural fragrances, and recycled and recyclable bottles. Her Orange Soap, created in 1974 to help a friend’s child who had eczema, is still one of the brand’s bestsellers today. faithinnature.co.uk
MIND MATTERS Former soldier turned presenter Jason Fox opens up about his mission to get men talking about mental health Words: Michelle Johnson
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they are not alone; there are ways through it.” His mission to battle the stigma of mental health is continued in his new book, Life Under Fire, which offers strategies for coping with stress and struggles. The timing is no coincidence: Mind statistics show one in four people will experience a mental health problem each year in England alone – one in six report issues including depression and anxiety every week – while Samaritans adds that men remain three times more likely to take their own lives than women. “I think we need to be more proactive about mental health as a culture,” he says. “If we equip young adults with tools to help them in the future, they’ll already be armed as they become leaders in their own right.” Fox has also partnered with award-winning men’s health publication The Book of Man on the hugely successful The Wild Tales Podcast. Created in association with Talisker single malt whisky, the podcast’s second series features inspiring guests including Olympic athletes Victoria Pendleton MBE and Denise Lewis OBE, and former Royal Marine and Invictus Games competitor Mark Ormrod. Here, Fox opens up about finding your limits, getting back to nature and breaking the stigma of mental health. »
e need to talk about mental health,” says Jason Fox. The 43-year-old former Special Forces soldier is a familiar face on our TV screens, thanks to the popularity of Channel 4’s SAS: Who Dares Wins and his documentary Inside the Real Narcos. Fox – known as ‘Foxy – is also the best-selling author of Battle Scars, the 2018 autobiography that details his life in the military and the struggles he faced after leaving the Armed Forces in 2012. Fox’s military career – 10 years as a Royal Marine Commando followed by a decade with the Special Boat Service – saw him executing global operations including hostage rescue and counter terrorism. He is a trained combat swimmer, demolitions expert, Special Forces dog handler and jungle survival expert. After he was medically discharged with PTSD, Fox found himself struggling with everyday life – and was soon suffering from depression and contemplating suicide. “Talking about my mental health saved my life,” he says candidly, reflecting on how friends helped him to find a suitable therapist. He also co-founded veteran support service, Rock2Recovery. “Now, I want to use my profile to make sure that other people know
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Jason, it’s great to see The Wild Tales Podcast back. What can we expect from the new episodes? I’m so pleased that we’re back. I’ve really enjoyed meeting such amazing people. This season, we’ve got [British sailor] Tracy Edwards, who was the first woman to sail around the world, as well as Denise Lewis – she’s unbelievable. An absolute machine. I also interview my mate Mark Ormrod, who is a triple amputee. He was injured [in an IED blast while serving in Afghanistan] and lost an arm and both legs. We’ve never really spoken about that incident, and he was so open and moving. I had to take a few deep breaths during that chat.
In the podcast you talk a lot about getting back to nature… Yeah, it’s massively important to me. We talk about the power of reconnecting with nature. I regularly go to the gym but, ultimately, I need to get out there in the fresh air and explore. When the first [Covid-19 lockdown] restrictions started to lift, I went out in the south-west of England with my friend, Aldo Kane, for a few days of climbing, caving, abseiling, river rafting and camping. It’s amazing how much you can do just locally. Is this what brought The Wild Tales’ partner Talisker on board? I think Talisker approached The Book of Man about the podcast because, as a brand, they’re all about getting out into the wild and aligning with adventurous spirits – especially in the west coast of Scotland and Isle of Skye where they are based. It’s an amazing part of the world. My own relationship with Talisker is mainly that I like drinking it. [laughs] You’re best known for SAS: Who Dares Wins. What’s it like to be a driving force in that situation? It’s awesome. The four of us [instructors Ant Middleton, Matthew Ollerton and Jay Morton] invest so much time and effort into the contestants’ experience. It’s mega-powerful to see someone overcome a hurdle they thought would break them; their reactions are just so raw. You’re watching people who’ve had to be so strong, mentally and physically, and once they’ve finished the results are so overwhelming. The show is based on the SAS selection
What inspired your new book, Life Under Fire? When I wrote my first book Battle Scars – about my journey as a soldier and being medically discharged with PTSD – I received a lot of questions about my recovery. People think soldiers are trained to deal with anything but going to war wasn’t the catalyst for my mental health struggles; it was everyday life. It got me thinking about the lessons I’d learnt, so I sat down with [co-writer] Matt Allen and we explored the tactics and techniques I employed to get myself through the most difficult times. That became Life Under Fire. Why was it important to you to share your experience with PTSD? The main reason I wanted to tell my story is because not enough people talk about their mental health or what they’re going through. I wanted to let people know that the difficult times are just a part of the journey: it’s alright to be in a dark place, but you’ve got to talk about it so you can find the route out. We often feel like we should keep a lid on it and not talk about our problems – particularly men – but that is causing a lot of damage. Talking about my mental health literally saved my life. We need to get rid of the stigma and help people move forward. What are some of the tactics that you employ in your day-to-day life? My one piece of advice is to be more like a toddler. By that, I mean we all need to live more in the now. A toddler will fall over and get hurt, but two seconds later they’ve picked themselves up and are back to having fun. They’re not worried about what might happen before it’s happened, they’re living in the moment. As adults, we need to do a bit more of that. The Wild Tales Podcast is available on iTunes or thebookofman.com The Samaritans helpline is available 24/7. Call 116 123 or visit samaritans.org
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Jason Fox hosts The Wild Tales Podcast in association with Talisker
Why is it important to you to share stories of physical and mental resilience? I find it very inspiring to meet people who have done extraordinary things, especially when I hear about the hurdles they have overcome. There’s a sense of relief that they’ve been there too, and you can take power in the fact that they also felt daunted by their own challenges – their achievements become even more inspirational.
programme but adapted for civilians. How do you strike that balance? It’s slightly different to the real SAS selection process, which is cold and brutal. There’s no-one there to mentor you, you have to get through it by yourself – and rightly so. It’s a serious job. So, the balance of how realistic it is versus how much we can mentor contestants is definitely something that’s evolved over the span of the series. We do get a lot of stick from people who think we’re just screaming and shouting, but the contestants have to really experience hardship in order to push themselves beyond their capability. Then, when we see someone go beyond what they thought they could, we can’t help but want to encourage them. You can really see the impact this training can have.
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THE FUTURE OF TRAVEL For the travel world, 2021 is not just a year for recovery – it’s also an opportunity for the industry to come back stronger, and more environmentally and socially conscious, than before. Sustainability will permeate travel trends in the coming year as hotels, travel companies and tourism destinations plan for a brighter future of responsible tourism in which community and preservation of the natural world is key
Words: Lauren Jade Hill
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GOING REMOTE As the need to socially distance lingers and we seek out an antidote to over-tourism, travellers are looking to remote pockets of the world for landscapes that encapsulate escapism. Luxury travel operator Cookson Adventures specialises in intrepid journeys to far-flung spots. Going one step further than isolated locations favoured by an increasing number of travellers, the adventure specialist is focusing on less-visited ‘new remote’ destinations. Join an expedition to gargantuan Greenland, travel far off the coast of Central America to the volcanic Revillagigedo Archipelago and venture to the rarely travelled Kuril Islands between Kamchatka and Japan. Best explored by yacht, each wilderness combines natural wonders such as flooded calderas with wildlife ranging from reindeers to narwhals. Elsewhere, from spring 2021, WILDNIS brings the focus closer to home with luxury expeditions in the Scottish Highlands. Founded by former British Army majors, the new tour operator immerses travellers in the untouched environment through exploration by restored Land Rover Defender, outdoor activities such as scrambling, and a mobile tented-camp experience topped off with open-fire feasts. Totally wild… cooksonadventures.com; wildnis.co.uk
Clockwise from left: Fjord cruising in Greenland, remote islands (both Cookson Adventures); Varty camp deck and Elephant bull at Londolozi (Ker Downey); Tracking at Phinda (andBeyond)
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CONSERVATION CONNECTION If there’s a positive to take from the challenges of 2020, it’s the world’s renewed appreciation for nature, with new challenges in protecting areas of wilderness and their resident wildlife without the presence of tourism. More conscious travellers are expected to embark on conservation journeys that make a direct difference and safari specialists across Africa have curated itineraries giving luxury travellers this opportunity. Ker & Downey Africa has launched its conservation safari with the Tracker Academy, a non-profit organisation offering training to youth from disadvantaged backgrounds. Guests signing up for this itinerary join academy students and graduates at Tswalu Kalahari and Londolozi game reserves, to participate in wildlife tracking and conservation management. Experiential travel company andBeyond, known for conservation initiatives such as Ocean with Borders, hosts Impact Journeys with immersive itineraries aroung conservation and community development. Join the Phinda Impact Journey for experiences such as pangolin tagging and rhino notching. Now that’s animal instinct. » ker-downeyafrica.com; andbeyond.com 73
Clockwise from left: Italy's Galleria dello Scudo and Galleria Continua, Italy (both ITALICS); Ultima Corfu; Villa La Fonte, Borgo Pignano (both ŠMark Bolton)
COMMUNITY FOCUS The past year has also boosted community involvement and the importance of local business. Support for those forging an industry in the local area extends to where we travel, with hotels and travel companies endeavouring to connect guests with local people. In October, leading galleries from across Italy established the ITALICS Art and Landscape artist collective and digital platform to introduce travellers to less-visited sites across the country and connect them with the cultural community. Its platform gives tips on where to go while telling the stories of local creatives and businesses. In Marrakech, luxury boutique hotel El Fenn is to emerge from a major expansion that sees it now spanning 12 interconnected riads of the medina. The hotel is also pledging a greater commitment to supporting the community and sharing that experience with guests through everything from the art to the food. Several hotels in London are also supporting local business. When Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill reopened in September following a refurbishment, the hotel also launched a Discover Marylebone package, partnering with small businesses and artisans in the neighbourhood including a local candle-maker. Local heroes, indeed. italics.art; el-fenn.com; hyatt.com 74
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HOME FROM HOME With increased desire for exclusive-use accommodation and longer stays, it’s no surprise villa specialists have seen a dramatic increase in interest – in October, Tuscany Now & More reported a 500% rise in bookings and enquiries. This comes as several ultra-luxury villas make their debut, including the new Villa La Lavandaia, welcoming guests from April 2021, and the refurbished Villa La Fonte at the celebrated Tuscan estate of Borgo Pignano. Ultima Collection has added to its portfolio of properties designed to bridge the gap between five-star hotel and private home with the summer launch of the seven-suite Ultima Corfu property and December debut of a 13-chalet Ultima Courchevel resort. Embracing this move towards exclusive-use accommodation, more hotels have also started to offer buyouts. You can book a camp in Rwanda, Zimbabwe or Botswana with Wilderness Safaris or stay at a lodge in Peru, Argentina or Chile with Explora, safe in the knowledge you’ll have the entire place to yourself. The world really is yours. » tuscanynowandmore.com; ultimacollection.com; wilderness-safaris.com; explora.com 75
IMMERSIVE WELLNESS Holistic wellness is to become an even higher priority at luxury properties around the world as we yearn more than ever for restorative travel. Hotels first responded to the changing travel landscape by creating digital wellness platforms. Holistic wellbeing brand COMO Shambhala launched its new digital wellness companion, COMO Shambhala By My Side, while health resort Chiva-Som debuted its online intensive wellness series. These offerings complement wellness retreats with pre- and post-travel sessions, while resorts develop new programmes that make self-care a greater part of your stay. In September, St Lucia’s Windjammer Landing Villa Beach Resort launched an underwater breathwork programme combining meditative breathwork, yogic postures and diving. And, in Myanmar, remote island resort Wa Ale is preparing to launch of its new ayurvedic jungle. The coming year also promises new wellness resort openings. Stay at the luxury hideaway Kagi Maldives Spa Island, venture to the Middle East’s first full-immersion wellness retreat, Zulal Wellness Resort in Qatar, and stay on the jungle island of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River at the fully integrative health retreat, RAKxa. Now that’s good news – and good health – for the new year. comohotels.com; chivasom.com; windjammerlanding.com; waaleresort.com; kagimaldives.com; zulal.com; rakxawellness.com
AS WE YEARN MORE THAN EVER FOR RESTORATIVE TRAVEL HOLISTIC
WELLNESS IS TO BECOME A HIGHER PRIORITY AND SELF-CARE A GREATER PART OF YOUR STAY
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Island dreaming: Wa Ale is preparing to launch its new ayurvedic jungle resort in Myanmar 77
OCEAN DRIVE Sustainability is making a splash in the luxury world, but our selection of eco-friendly ocean toys proves that living responsibly has never been more fun Words: Daniel Pembrey
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oday’s travellers face an ever-greater challenge when seeking out the wonders of our natural world: how to explore without endangering it further. One solution is to use electric-powered transportation and other devices that avoid noisy pollution. Over recent years, concepts for VTOLs (vertical takeoff and landing craft) and other futuristic devices have become commonplace. Now, an array of accessible products is available to buy for those in the know. »
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STYLE IN MOTION François Richard is the CEO (“chief exploration officer”) of Lanéva Boats, which makes ‘ultrasilent’ electric dayboats (below). The company is funded by the prestigious Monaco Tech programme, however, Richard hails from rural Brittany. “I grew up with an appreciation for the clean air and silence of the rivers there. It is so easily broken by noisy diesel engines. My dream is for people to take to the water without unnecessarily disturbing it.” The realisation of this dream now occurs at a traditional boatyard on Lake Como that otherwise restores classic wooden Riva runabouts. “Besides the electric motor, it uses all eco-friendly materials: bio-based wood, linen fibre, cork, and 100% recyclable top-ofthe-range leatherette.” There is no sacrifice in performance, either. These ’50s-style runabouts can travel at over 30 knots. On a full charge, at 15 knots, they run for three hours. Three hours is also the time it
takes to fully charge them using a 63A triphased socket. More and more docks and harbours have these as marinas seek to encourage electric vessels. Richard reckons that a Lanéva boat runs at 92-96% efficiency – double that of a traditional marine engine. Buying one is a trip in itself: they take six months to build and cost from €350,000 excluding VAT, depending on customisation. Once you experience the charge – pun intended – of owning these electric products, you may not want to stop there. Not far from Monaco, Marseille-based Notilo Plus makes an ideal accompaniment for your electric dayboat: a bright yellow, 2ft autonomous submersible drone that can follow you around underwater, untethered. With its seven propellers, objectsensing sonar and wireless positioning system, the iBubble (previous page and right) can handle all photography and filming of that rare stingray or unusual turtle, while the scuba divers focus on simply experiencing these immersive realms.
BENEATH THE WAVES Going way beyond the limits of scuba divers are the personal submarines now designed for storage in, and deployment from, superyacht tender garages. The two primary makers are Triton Submarines (right) in the US and U-Boat Worx in Holland. Such submersibles used to be the province of scientists, explorers and filmmakers, but Richard Booth, senior project manager at UK-based Superyacht Tenders and Toys (a supplier of equipment to superyachts), reports growing demand for leisure use. “They’re like something out of a Bond movie in their ability to take you down into the ocean’s depths,” says Booth. “Gliding around shipwrecks or among shoals of photo-luminescent fish is awe-inspiring. They’re fully electric and can run for up to 12 hours, with all the expected safety features built in to prevent them from getting into trouble. U-Boat Worx’s models start at around €2.5m and take you down to around 300m depth; Triton’s are more widely known and tend to cost slightly more.” Indeed, Triton Submarines is collaborating with Aston Martin on its limited-edition Project Neptune concept, which promises the kind of performance and cabin design for which the car maker is famed.
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TODAY’S TRAVELLERS FACE AN EVER-GREATER CHALLENGE WHEN SEEKING OUT THE WONDERS OF OUR NATURAL WORLD: HOW TO EXPLORE WITHOUT ENDANGERING IT FURTHER
LIFESTYLE
SPEED MACHINES Adrenaline junkies might also pick up a Quadrofoil (right) – a small electric hydrofoil. “They minimise surface drag and avoid making waves,” says Marjan Rozman, Quadrofoil’s CEO. “They’re also tremendous fun. You really sense the adrenaline rushing through your veins once you push the Foils Down button, grab the interactive race car steering wheel and experience the exhilarating airborne feeling.” The Q2S Electric model claims a top speed of 21 knots and costs from €34,980. Those who prefer jetskis may wish to seek out an electric version, as made by Montreal-based Taiga Motors. Taiga makes snowmobiles, too – unlike any you may have ridden before. “Taiga is named after the snow forest that covers much of Canada and large parts of Europe,” says Samuel Bruneau, the company’s CEO and co-founder. “Travelling through forested wilderness in near silence at speeds of over 100km/h is a nightand-day different experience to a noisy, smoky two-stroke machine. They are workhorses, as well, with the high and instant torque you can expect from a 180hp electric motor.”
ECO ENERGY For those seeking to go all in on sustainability, it’s hard to beat a trimaran with a Torqeedo power system. Munichbased Torqeedo designs climate-friendly propulsion and energy management for yachts, and it has teamed up with BMW to source high-capacity batteries. It is also working with Neel, the leading trimaran maker, on vessels large enough to accommodate effective solar panels, hydro-generators, rainwater collection and water desalination systems, and even the means to convert waste into fertiliser for onboard gardens. So equipped, a 50ft trimaran will set you back around a million euros. These ‘permaboats’ (left) are designed to go for months on end (in sufficiently clement weather) without recourse to a traditional generator. There is palpable optimism across this industry. As François Richard at Lanéva Boats says: “Both the market and the technology are rapidly approaching a set of ‘tipping points’.” So it’s only a matter of time before clients experiencing these products will force the supply of electric superyachts, helicopters, planes… and more.
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Message in a bottle Raise a glass to the family history still shaping some of the most unique contemporary wine houses
Sparkling history: Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve (right). This page from top: Biondi Santi Riserva 2012, Rare Champagne Millésime 2006, Marie-Antoinette
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alvador Dalí once said: “Whosoever enjoys wine no longer simply drinks, they savour secrets.” The great surrealist’s wine of preference was, of course, champagne – specifically Charles Heidsieck. It was his love of the fine French sparkling wine that inspired some of his famous pieces, such as the Champagne Lamps he designed for his patron Edward James’ Monkton House – an attempt at an entirely surrealist abode, complete with Lobster Telephone, in West Sussex – in 1930, and which are now housed at London’s V&A Museum. Dalí perhaps became familiar with Charles Heidsieck champagne during his many exhibition visits to New York, where he achieved celebrity status in the late 1930s, through the Second World War and beyond. The United States, after all, has long maintained a unique relationship with the French maison and its namesake founder, who was known as Champagne Charlie. Charles Camille Heidsieck founded his eponymous maison in 1851, inspired by his father Charles-Henri who, as a champagne merchant, had reportedly journeyed into Russia in 1811 with several cases of champagne – and his order book – ready to quench the thirst of Napoleon’s victorious army. Charles’ own journey was just as remarkable. After introducing champagne to the States, he was the toast of New York Society up until the American Civil War, during which he was arrested by Union General Benjamin F Butler under suspicion of espionage for the Confederacy. The seven months he spent imprisoned at Fort Jackson, Louisiana caused an international incident that is said to have prompted Napoleon to contact Abraham Lincoln personally to request his release. A CUVÉE WORTHY OF A QUEEN While Charles’ story is certainly thrilling
(representing the triumph of the wine and as a tribute to Reims, where kings of France were historically crowned).
enough for Hollywood – and, indeed, actor Hugh Grant played him in the 1989 film Champagne Charlie – his is not the family’s only célèbre hailing from the region. It was his uncle, Florens-Louis Heidsieck, who truly founded the family’s champagne legacy. Florens-Louis established Heidsieck & Cie, in Reims in 1785, with one dream: to create “a cuvée worthy of a queen”. In May of that year, Florens-Louis travelled to the royal court of Versailles to present his first cuvée to Marie-Antoinette (below right). Thanks to the French queen’s royal patronage – and the help of the family’s business partner Henri-Guillaume Piper – the next 50 years saw the maison, renamed PiperHeidsieck, grow to become the official purveyor of champagne to 14 royal courts from Europe to Thailand and China. Piper-Heidsieck has remained a society favourite well into contemporary times – actress Marilyn Monroe said: “I go to sleep every night with a few drops of Chanel No. 5 and wake up with a glass of PiperHeidsieck every morning.” Of course, Florens-Louis’ dynasty did not stop there. In 2018, inspired by the legacy of its founder, Piper-Heidsieck launched Rare Champagne. The prestige champagne brand began life as Piper-Heidsieck’s prestige cuvée, and its winemaking is overseen by the Maison’s former cellar master Régis Camus – one of the world’s most awarded makers of Champagne. Rare Champagne is aptly named: it has produced just 12 exclusive vintages in the last four decades, creating its white, rosé or secret expressions only when Camus considers the vintage to be absolutely extraordinary. The 1976 vintage, launched in 1985, celebrates the 200th anniversary of that famous encounter between Florens-Louis and Marie-Antoinette. The brand’s bottles are handmade in the shape of the original gift to the Queen of France, each adorned with a tiara
A NEW VINTAGE Today, Charles Heidsieck, Piper-Heidsieck and Rare Champagne are all owned by EPI Group, a new force in the wine industry that is bringing family legacies back into the mainstream. Run by French wine lover and businessman Christopher Descours, the group also owns Biondi Santi, the world’s most renowned producer of Brunello di Montalcino wine. In fact, Biondi Santi invented the name, bringing a uniquely local wine expression to the world’s connoisseurs. The family-run Italian winery dates its origins to the 19th-century, when Clemente Santi – a pharmaceutical graduate of Pisa University – began to dedicate himself to the agriculture of his vast Tuscan estates. The oenological techniques that he developed saw him beating French producers to win multiple awards for his 1865 and 1867 red wines – quite a feat at that time. Santi’s daughter, Caterina, married doctor and aristocratic Jacopo Biondi. Their son, Ferruccio, inherited his grandfather’s love of wines and vines and created a new legacy for the family by looking towards beautifully aged, full-bodied red wines using Sangiovese plants from its own vineyards. Collectors will surely be familiar with the brand’s Riserva 1955, voted one of Wine Spectator’s greatest wines of all time. In fact, even Biondi Santi vintages from the 1880s and 1890s, tasted in the 1990s, were found to still be in fine condition, maintaining the floral aromas of their youth but without the firm tannins or acidity that allow them to age as well as their formidable legacy. charlesheidsieck.com; rare-champagne.com; biondisanti.com
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A VISION
In our exclusive interview, Banda Property founder Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi tells us how a new sense of community is driving the UK’s most sophisticated developments
Words: Juliet Herd
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doardo Mapelli Mozzi, founder of boutique property development company Banda Property, has a habit of anticipating what people need. Critically, things that the eye doesn’t necessarily see when scanning the spacious, light-filled rooms of one of his palatial residential properties, but which turn out to be fundamental to comfort and functionality – especially in these Covidcompromised times. “On a technical level, we’ve always been well ahead of the curve with our air purification and filtration systems,” he says. “Clean air is one of so many things in a property that you can’t put a value on – quality of air, light, volume and energy are so important.” It’s 37-year-old Mapelli Mozzi’s knowledge of how light, flow and space work in harmony that has sealed his reputation as one of London’s most dynamic and innovative residential developers – and ensured that he is uniquely placed to design homes that serve our rapidly changing lifestyles. “Our homes are playing a much greater role in our lives; certainly, prior to lockdown, you’d get up, go to work and not come back until the end of the day,” says Mapelli Mozzi (right). “Now, your homes have to deal with so many more activities: work, entertaining, working out, children and home education. It’s really focused people [whose] current homes are not working for their lifestyle. “We’ve seen an increased demand for outdoor space and a [greater] appreciation of nature… more families who want to cook for themselves, so are interested in
smart kitchen design with large pantries.” Like many of his clients, Mapelli Mozzi spent lockdown in the English countryside, where his mother Nicola and stepfather, the sculptor David Williams-Ellis, are based. This summer, he married Princess Beatrice, 32, at the Royal Chapel of All Saints, Royal Lodge, Windsor. The couple’s 17 July ceremony was attended only by their respective parents and siblings, his three-year-old son Wolfie, and the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh. Although the entrepreneur (whose father is former-Olympic skier Count Alessandro ‘Alex’ Mapelli-Mozzi) is too discreet to mention his entry into the royal family, he gives the impression of relishing the slower pace of life afforded both him and Beatrice – whose work involves travel between London and New York – during this time. “I was very fortunate to have spent much of lockdown in the countryside; to watch the seasons in slow motion because I’ve never spent such a long time sitting in one location,” says Mapelli Mozzi, who regularly attends private projects in New York, Paris, Ibiza and more. “It was magical – but I certainly didn’t get to the end of lockdown and think I wanted to live in the countryside for the rest of my life.” In fact, he’s somewhat sceptical of the current exodus of young professionals to the sticks. “We’ve actually said give it six months to a year [before moving], because the country market is too hot at the moment. Things will calm down once some normality returns, when people realise they can’t work from home five days a week and it’s not always sunny in Dorset.” » 84
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DESIGN FOR LIFE Back in central London, Mapelli Mozzi is enthusing about how his developments are designed to foster neighbourhood relationships. Banda’s ‘design for living’ mantra certainly feeds into the growing shift towards self-contained ‘15-minute village’ concepts in the capital, where everything you need – from shops to schools – is no more than 15 minutes from your door. “I think Covid-19 has shown that community is so important and, if you look at certain areas of London, you can see the joy that people have experienced in having a local butcher, baker, fishmonger and café,” he says. “Because people are travelling less, they are working on those community relationships in a way that we haven’t seen for a very long time.” Banda’s latest and, perhaps, most ambitious project to date is the conversion of seven derelict Grade II Listed Victorian townhouses at 13-19 Leinster Square, Bayswater, into five maisonettes, eight lateral apartments and two penthouses with sunken roof terraces, all overlooking a private garden square. The fiveyear project was finished during lockdown and, already, nearly a third of the properties – ranging in price from £5.9m to £9.9m – have been sold. The timing could not be better, with the development ticking many of the design boxes preoccupying town planners today: regeneration rather than new-build and in an
area slightly outside the usual elite postcodes; the chance to enjoy modern lateral living, offering flexibility and flow of space; and the creation of a ready-made community of likeminded owner-occupiers invested in their neighbourhood. Westminster Council quickly came on board, not least because of Banda’s commitment to restore original features, including the grand white-stucco frontage with its tall arched windows. “We agreed to put back all of the heritage features, restoring much of the original character of the building but at the same time [creating] modern layouts that work for families today,” Mapelli Mozzi says. “The private garden also creates a community of people and a sense of neighbours looking out for each other.” Each of the 15 apartments is unique – one three-bedroom maisonette boasts such showstopping design features as a rosso levanto marble fireplace, bespoke Obumex Dirand kitchen with Calacatta oro marble island and luxurious cinema room complete with popcorn machine. Another string to Mapelli Mozzi’s bow is the recently launched Banda furniture collection, featuring beautifully crafted statement marble pieces. “The value of an antique or piece of art is the story behind it,” he says. “Marble has millions of years of stories, so what we wanted to do was to create these objects for life; things that are incredibly well made and will stay there for ever.”
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Modern living: Banda Property’s Leinster Square development, in Bayswater
SOPHISTICATION AND SUBSTANCE Mapelli Mozzi, who launched Banda when he was 23, says he has always been fascinated by the “emotional side” of design. His unconventional redevelopments range from an old wharf and Victorian bakery to bottling factory and art deco garage. When he started converting a derelict bakery in Battersea in 2011, he was advised by local agents to build 30 flats and throw in a Sainsbury’s on the ground floor. He declined. “We built six 3,500-4,000sqft apartments and two more on the ground floor… and sold every apartment in a day. It’s about understanding the buyers who are going to want to live in that building and location, and then catering for them,” he says. “I’d much prefer to have the best building in what may not be perceived as quite the right postcode than a mediocre or inferior building in a good postcode.” So, who are Banda’s clients? “Currently, we have a lot of European families, Americans and some ex-pats returning to the UK,” he says. “They’re sophisticated, understand the importance of quality and design, and are all quite entrepreneurial. We also have some young clients in their late 20s who are looking [to buy a place] that says something about them and their personality.” Mapelli Mozzi believes there’s never been a better opportunity for enterprising local operators to transform the capital’s property swag in areas like Marylebone, Fitzrovia and the edges of Notting Hill. “Now is the time to have really thoughtful design and consideration for communities. Construction work is a nightmare for local residents, so the end result has to benefit everybody. You need the top end of the market to be working to help the whole of the housing ecosystem.” Mapelli Mozzi takes a similar approach to his philanthropy; he founded Rwandabased charity Cricket Builds Hope to deliver social programmes through the sport, with a particular focus on female empowerment. He was inspired by his late stepfather and mentor, politician and businessman Christopher Shale, who died in 2011. “He was very moral, very kind and honourable,” he says. “He was just a brilliant influence.” This top-down ethos is also echoed in Banda’s environmental responsibility, he says. “Sustainability is more than just being energy efficient. The environmental impact must be factored into every decision. Our principal is to do it once and do it well, always striving to create a legacy that will stand the test of time and is, therefore, more sustainable.” Ultimately, Mapelli Mozzi says he is excited about the future of British development prospects both post-Brexit and post-pandemic. “We’ve all had enough time to prepare – probably far longer than we all wanted. We’re ready whatever happens,” he says, adding that there is perhaps a hunger for new, community-led development projects. “We’re starting to see opportunities that we haven’t seen for many years.” bandaproperty.co.uk
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Design in MOTION From record-breaking performance yachts to ocean penthouses, Monk Design’s Adriana Monk bridges the gap between practical innovation and luxury interiors at sea Words: Polly Jean Harrison
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driana Monk spent 10 years as a leading interior designer in the automotive industry, working with the likes of RollsRoyce and Jaguar Land Rover, before following her passion for yachting and establishing her own design studio, Monk Design, in 2008. Monk’s focus on performance yachts has a catalogue of awardwinning projects, and the designer (picture right and above) is making waves in the yachting industry thanks to her emphasis on innovative interiors, details and livery – from creating silent sleeping pods that move independent of the ocean state, to floating apartments designed to take her clients round the world – bringing a fresh perspective to every design challenge. With an eclectic style inspired by what she describes as her “nomadic design life” – Monk grew up in Italy with her Californian father and Swiss mother, following their footsteps by pursuing a product design education – her interior designs bridge the gap between high performance and elegant yachting style, the epitome of the creativity and clarity that gives meaning to her philosophy of ‘design in motion’. Monk tells Tempus about her unique aesthetic and the importance of finding creative solutions to any challenge the ocean may bring…
Adriana, tell us about your philosophy of ‘design in motion’? Setting up my own company required a fair bit of soul searching, because I went from the structure of the automotive industry and corporate world – what I’d been focusing on for 10 years – to suddenly being my own boss. It was very humbling. I took the plunge and did a deep dive, taking a course in naval architecture and getting my sailing licence. Throughout all this, I was thinking about how my design services were going to stand out from the competition. I realised that many interior yacht designers come from an architectural background, often having designed the clients’ homes. I needed a way to set me apart – and it was very unusual for a car designer to become a yacht designer. I realised that everything I have worked on has always involved motion. Bicycles, cars, boats – I don’t do static stuff. Motion and emotion are both very relevant to what I do. What can you tell us about your current ocean projects? Right now, I’m working on the new ClubSwan 125, a high-performance racing superyacht. It has been a fantastic challenge and I think will make a real difference in yachting, hopefully beating the world record. I’ve been working closely with [naval architect] Juan Kouyoumdjian and the owner’s team to create the interior. Together, I believe, we have conceived one of the most innovative and state-of-the art sailing vessels. What I love about race boats is that there’s hardly any interior, so the selected elements you do put in have to be fit for purpose, making them much more precious.I’m also designing a large motorboat for a young couple who want to sail around the world with their kids. Not only do we have to think about luxury for the parents, who have great taste and style, but also create an environment where the children can live and learn. 88
How closely do you work with the owner during a project? It’s very collaborative. I’m hired directly by the owners, so I need to understand their design philosophy and then become their design ambassador – the art director for the project. I always push for innovation but it’s my job to translate what the client wants into creative and curious solutions. There’s a big difference between car design and yacht design, in that sense. Car designers predict trends and present future design solutions. As a yacht designer, you have to truly understand what the client actually wants. It has to be modern and personal, but also safe enough to sail the world with confidence and pride. Are there practical features that you have to consider when designing? As a designer, you have to become incredibly creative to solve problems elegantly, with a level of luxury that is unique for the client. Safety is the first thing you have to consider when designing a sailboat, as they are constantly in motion. Materials, of course, have to be able to withstand salt water and diverse climates, so I’m always looking for suppliers across different fields for inspiration and new materials. You also lecture in design at the Royal College of Art, London, and the University of Monaco. What inspires you to share your knowledge? When you’re passionate about what you do, it’s infectious. You want others to understand how wonderful it is. I think we should all strive to help curate the next generation of designers and pass on our knowledge. For me, working directly with people who will be our future designers is inspiring, because you feed off each other. It’s also incredibly rewarding, especially with the feedback you get at the end of term. monk-design.com
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Taking a first look at the brand-new Rolls-Royce Ghost, Tempus discovers the meaning of post-opulence and complex simplicity Words: Peter Malmstrom
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y reintroduction to the modern Rolls-Royce began with expeditions in the masterful Cullinan SUV and beautiful Dawn convertible grand tourer. Through driving these cars, with their distinct personalities, I started to understand the thinking behind the new generation of Rolls-Royce Motor Cars – and a new level of intense customer focus. Driven by extensive feedback from a growing global customer base, the new generation of Rolls-Royce owners has truly shaped the design thinking of the brand, culminating in the creation of the Ghost in 2009. Since that launch, the Ghost has gone on to become one of the most popular RollsRoyce vehicles of all time; and each evolution is a direct response to customers’ demand for a luxury car that can be driven, as well as be driven in. The very proportions of the car underline this subtle shift when compared
to its bigger brother, the legendary Phantom. The Ghost’s B-pillar, delicately proportioned between front and rear seats, gives greater amplitude to the driver, while leaving ample legroom in the rear, all surrounded by superbly fashioned, uncluttered luxury. “Post-opulent” is the term Rolls-Royce uses to describe the new 2020 Ghost, and the brand’s move to simplify design and make the car more subtle, while still maintaining quality, which comes together to deliver a luxurious, fully immersive customer experience. Among those pared-back design notes and unbroken lines are the refined, sweeping curves that mask the vehicle’s overall size. Even the legendary Pantheon grille has been refashioned with a more minimalist touch, while the addition of internal lighting to the grille reinforces Ghost’s historic lineage. The traditional rib down the centre bonnet line (a throwback to the straight-hinge lines of cars 91
from the 1920s and ’30s) has been replaced by an elegant scallop that leads the eye from the dashboard to the iconic Spirit of Ecstasy. All superfluous details and unnecessary shut lines have now been removed, leaving the new Ghost with a cleaner and somehow more delicate appearance. On my recent visit to Goodwood, the home of Rolls-Royce with its history of quality and excellence, to test drive the latest model, one naturally set the bar high – very high. But I soon find I am not the only one to do so. Speaking with Jonathan Simms, engineering lead for the new Ghost, it is clear that this car represents a new benchmark for the brand, particularly in terms of attention to detail. “The brief we were given for the character of the new Ghost was ‘perfection in simplicity’,” he says. “It’s really a car that whispers; it doesn’t shout.” »
THE HARMONICS OF SILENCE These whispers are clear in how the model’s engineers challenged themselves to overcome even the smallest details, such as the resonance of the cabin itself. Road noise is all but eliminated by unique harmonisation of the aluminium seat frames, which are fitted with tiny dampers used to tune their harmonic resonance to the same note as the rest of the cabin. Similarly, the cavernous boot space contains a series of eustachian tubes, like small trumpets, to manage air flow and prevent low frequency booming on the motorway. The Ghost brings all these independent elements into perfect acoustic harmony within the cabin; like one great orchestra, but one designed for silence. These incredibly fine details deliver exceptionally low levels of road noise, which Rolls-Royce then fills with the sounds you do want to hear – including a Bespoke Audio system that has advanced to become, quite literally, part of the fabric of the car. The bass speakers are built into the sills, providing space for significant air movement for ultra-low frequency sound, while the headlining itself becomes a resonating speaker, tuned to deliver multi-directional sound to further assist the legion of pitched speakers that are littered invisibly about the interior. While it’s fair to say that silent running has always been synonymous with Rolls-Royce motorcars, as has the smoothness of ride, the new Ghost takes this to another level, with innovations that make the car beautiful to drive. 92
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LIKE THE CLEAN LINES OF A HIGH-QUALITY SWISS WATCH, THE GHOST’S BEAUTY MASKS THE TECHNICAL ACHIEVEMENTS CONTAINED WITHIN
KNOWING THE ROAD AHEAD The new Ghost is the first of a new generation of cars to be fitted with Rolls-Royce’s advanced planar suspension system – a patented friction damper that isolates and absorbs wheel vibration to quieten the drive. Sounds simple and, conceptually, it is, with horizontal arms that cradle the upper wishbones to significantly reduce the transfer of vertical shock into the vehicle’s alloy body, which is another example of Rolls-Royce engineers thinking outside the box in the pursuit of perfection. Other innovations such as a terrain-seeking radar, that scans the road immediately ahead of the car, which then makes millions of tiny adjustments to the suspension to perfectly prepare the car for the road it is about to travel – are coupled with a GPS system that maps the road ahead, allowing the car to autonomously select the right gear to take into the next bend. All this electronic wizardry is powered by the hugely capable 6.75ltr, 600hp twin-turbo-charged V12 engine and a new all-wheel drive and fourwheel steering system, which makes the car feel light and agile despite its size and stature. By combining all these elements, Rolls-Royce has delivered a driving experience that is second to none, enjoyed in unrivalled comfort and luxury. But it’s when driving at pace that the Ghost takes on a personality of its own, remaining rock solid on the road, with good traction and quick turn in, coupled with herculean, but effortless, acceleration. The silence and smoothness of ride masks its outright speed, and the blistering performance completes the all-round driving experience. On the surface, the Ghost appears uncomplicated. But, like the clean lines and simplicity of a high-quality Swiss watch, its aesthetic beauty masks the incredible technical achievements contained within. Many years ago, a good friend in the Army told me: “Tell me the time and not how the clock works”. The Ghost is the embodiment of this phrase, which, in my view, is the definition of the brand’s complex simplicity. For owners looking for effortless luxury in every aspect of the car’s delivery, without having to trouble themselves with how this perfection is achieved, the new Ghost must be the go-to vehicle of choice for those opulent high-networth individuals who favour a more subtle “post-opulent” luxury experience. rolls-roycemotorcars.com
Elegance in motion: The 2020 Rolls-Royce Ghost combines technical innovation and clean, intuitive design to exemplify the brand's desire for "perfection in simplicity"
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SAVE the DATE Your luxury events calendar for December 2020 and January 2021
FESTIVE FEASTS With London – and much of the UK – leaving lockdown just in time for the festive season, what better way to celebrate the holidays than with the capital’s famous fine dining? The Grill at the Dorchester’s (right) four-course festive dinner by head chef Tom Booton is accompanied by live music (Weds-Sat, 3-23 Dec), while in Knightsbridge, Pétrus by Gordon Ramsay is serving a seasonal Christmas lunch of elegant modern and classic French cuisine (until Jan; not 26 Dec-5 Jan). Engawa London’s 12-course Christmas Wagyu menu offers plates of Kagoshima beef sirloin, sushi and more (until 27 Dec) or try Hakkasan’s new festive signature menu (until Jan), featuring new dishes and available for its Hosted by Hakkasan bespoke home service.
SPORT In golf, the US Women’s Open (10-13 Dec) will see South Korea’s Lee Jeong-eun defend her 2019 title in the oldest of the Ladies’ majors, before tennis aces Djokovic, Nadal and Federer will – hopefully – return to Melbourne for the annual Australian Open (18-31 Jan). In Motorsport, the final Formula 1 grand prix of the season takes place in Abu Dhabi (11-13 Dec, left), before we turn our attention to its electronic equivalent. FIA Formula E kicks off in Santiago, Chile for its first electric street race of the season (16 Jan), with all-new teams going head to head against the picturesque backdrop of the Andes. Later, in Monaco, the official start of the 89th Monte-Carlo Rally has been announced for 21 Jan, an event preceded by days of recce and classic-car meets along the French Riviera, culminating in a grand prize giving on 24 Jan. »
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Heesen’s Project Triton offers the rare opportunity to own and enjoy a brand new yacht without the waiting. 50-metre Triton combines advanced Heesen engineering with Dutch craftsmanship, timeless exterior lines by Clifford Denn and contemporary interior design by Reymond Langton. With her full displacement steel hull and a range of 3,800 nautical miles, Triton is a true blue-water motor yacht. Ready for delivery and perfectly on time for cruising this summer. heesenyachts.com
ART Unlimited Festival (13–17 Jan) is a five-day festival featuring art, performance, comedy and more to celebrate the vision of disabled artists. The Southbank Centre will be hosting the event digitally, making it available to audiences around the globe for the first time, as well as an outdoor art exhibition, Unseen, by artist Suzie Larke (her piece, Lapse, left). London Art Fair also presents an all-virtual event, leaning on its heritage to innovate and collaborate. It launches on 18 Jan with a digital fair connecting collectors, enthusiasts, galleries, artists, brands and institutions to discover and buy the very best modern and contemporary art.
MUSIC The Royal Albert Hall’s annual carol concert takes place 18-23 Dec, with a socially distanced audience, while the Royal Opera House (left) is impressing audiences with its audio packages and virtual streaming of big-name productions such as Handel’s Ariodante (until 20 Dec) and Don Giovanni (until 27 Dec), as well as booking tickets for live – though reworked and Covid-safe – performances of The Nutcracker (until 3 Jan). While the location of the star-studded US Grammy Awards (31 Jan) is yet to be confirmed, the awards are celebrating an all-female nominee list in its best rock performance and best country album for the first time ever, while Beyoncé has received nine nominations – making her the most-nominated female in the awards’ history.
FASHION It’s hard to beat Parisian style as the City of Lights prepares for two fashion events: Men’s Fashion Week (19-24 Jan) and Haute Couture Week (25-28 Jan). Although it’s not yet clear whether we will be enjoying the collections from the FROW or our front rooms, these events are sure to be cutting edge. In London, the V&A’s Bags: Inside Out exhibition (in partnership with Mulberry, left) explores the style, function, design and craftsmanship of the ultimate accessory, from rucksacks to the Birkin (from 12 Dec).
For more exciting events, visit our website:
While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, changes to event calendars may occur. Please check with individual event organisers for more information.
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Dinner party expert and chef célèbre Alexandra Dudley’s new weekly podcast, Come For Supper, delves into the lives – and pantries – of our favourite chefs and restaurateurs. Here, she reveals her own unique taste of London… Words: Freddy Clode
BUSINESS BRUNCH | MORTIMER HOUSE KITCHEN This sophisticated neighbourhood restaurant in the heart of Fitzrovia serves simple and irresistible Mediterranean meets Middle Eastern plates. Dudley says: “It has a wonderfully buzzing atmosphere and is in the centre of town, so very convenient. The menu works beautifully with Lello Favuzzi at the helm; he is as superb a chef as he is lovely. He is always making sure his diners are happy, which adds so much joy to the atmosphere.” mortimerhouse.com
COMFORT CUISINE | SANTO REMEDIO
SUSTAINABLY SOURCED | ODDBOX
HOST WITH THE MOST
This colourful cocina Mexicana in London Bridge serves authentic cuisine from Mexico City, the Yucatán and Oaxaca, mixed with a little local flair, with home-grown ingredients such as Hertfordshire pork on the menu alongside grasshopper guacamole.
For chefs specialising in sustainable produce, this is a convenient solution for bringing organic, natural fruit and veg to your door. Oddbox delivers a selection of fresh farm produce that wouldn’t make it to the supermarket shelves.
From festive soirées to new year celebrations, Dudley’s expert dinner party advice is adaptable to any environment – and will ensure you leave your guests full of cheer and wanting more.
Dudley says: “I’m a huge fan of Mexican food, which seems to be having its London moment. The most authentic and flavourful restaurant I have tried is Santo Remedio. Their tuna tostadas are excellent – and they have a mean cocktail list, too.”
Dudley says: “Oddbox is a fantastic fruit and vegetable box supplier that rescues wonky produce. I love that they are encouraging us to be less appearance-obsessed with what we eat, and it encourages people to eat things that perhaps they wouldn’t usually go for.”
Dudley says: “Always prep ahead – and don’t be afraid of canapés and pudding. They needn’t be complicated, and it really is the little extras that people remember. When it comes to main courses, I like to serve something that can be left to its own devices or served at room temperature. I am a big fan of an oven bake and a medley of colourful salads.”
santoremedio.co.uk
oddbox.co.uk
alexandradudley.com
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