Tempus Magazine | Issue 72 | February – March 2021

TIMELESS INSPIRATION

UNTAM ED A R CHIT EC T U R E How Norway,s dramatic landscapes are inspiring the world's most exciting buildings

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s it just me, or has this been the longest January on record? Already, 2021 is shaping up to be another eventful year, from the UK’s Brexit deal coming into play to the US presidential inauguration – and all while we continue to roll out vaccinations against Covid-19 amid another national lockdown. No, it has not been the rush back to normal that many had hoped for but, if anything, this slower move back towards to what-once-was is proof that something seismic has changed in our communities and our outlooks.

Even as we put the finishing touches on this, our first issue of 2021, it is clear to the team at Tempus that the world of luxury has no intention of losing its new, personal focus. Because that is what we now demand.

Authenticity and storytelling have become the buzzwords of the season but, as we have delved deeper into the emerging trends and fabulous launches that you will find in these pages, we have discovered a real and enduring connection between the exterior quality of the things we want and how that affects our internal wellbeing. Simply put, the material is becoming spiritual. Apollonia Poilâne – owner of Paris’s most famous bakery – encapsulated that feeling perfectly in our interview on page 26. “My job is to feed people both body and soul,” she says.

With that ethos as our inspiration, we have brought together the trends and expertise that will inspire you from the outside in, whether you’re making plans for your dream paradise island getaway (70) or ocean adventure (56) later this year, upgrading your supercar transport for leisure drives (16) or transforming your interior world to add tactile comfort and contemporary style to your home (82).

The inimitable designer Dame Zandra Rhodes also adds a splash of colour to our bedtime routines as she tells us all about her new collaboration with Savoir on page 42.

In our exclusive cover story, too, we speak to celebrated Norwegian architect Kjetil Trædal Thorsen ( founder of Snøhetta) about how the country’s Viking sagas and wild landscapes have inspired his architectural style – one that aims to enhance our experience of nature – from the glass-fronted Reindeer Pavilion in Dovrefjell–Sunndalsfjella National Park, to his submerged restaurant concept Under, which graces our front cover. Take a thought-provoking tour of Thorsen’s Norway on page 32.

Elsewhere, we explore the physical and mental health benefits of martial arts (66), the multi-sensory delights of unique fragrances (46), the best cigar lounges that London has to offer after lockdown (86), and the joy of vintage watches (50). With much more to discover within these pages and online at tempusmagazine.co.uk, we hope this issue serves as inspiration as you plan those special moments in the months to come.

Enjoy the issue

Michelle Johnson Editor Tempus

Tempus Magazine is published by Vantage Media Limited. www.vantagemediagroup.co.uk © 2020 Vantage Media Limited Articles and other contributions published in this journal may be reproduced only with special permission from the Publishers. The Publishers, Vantage Media Limited, accept no responsibility for any views or statements made in the articles and other contributions reproduced from any other source. No responsibility is accepted for the claims in advertisements appearing in this journal and the Publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertisements at their discretion.

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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL TEAM Editor Michelle Johnson michelle@tempusmagazine.co.uk Lysanne Currie Wealth expert Lysanne examines the rise of impact investing (62) and celebrates International Women’s Day with her round up of inspirational women breaking new ground in their fields (52).

Creative Director Ross Forbes ross@tempusmagazine.co.uk Digital Editor Gabriel Power gabriel@tempusmagazine.co.uk Wealth Editor Lysanne Currie

Ben McCarthy As head of nature conservation and restoration ecology for the National Trust, Ben tells us about the importance of protecting Britain’s green spaces – for the benefit of both wildlife and ourselves (14).

Motoring Editor Rory FH Smith Sub-Editor Dominique Dinse COMMERCIAL TEAM

Daniel Pembrey Journalist and author Daniel takes us on a tour of Norway’s dramatic landscapes to find out what inspires architect Kjetil Trædal Thorsen’s most unique buildings (32).

Sales & Content Executive Freddy Clode freddy@tempusmagazine.co.uk Sales & Event Enquiries info@tempusmagazine.co.uk VANTAGE MEDIA LIMITED Chairman Floyd Woodrow

Rory FH Smith Our resident supercar expert Rory follows his other passions this issue.

On page 22 he explores the motoring history of the Michelin Guide before diving into the exciting expedition yacht trend (56).

Managing Director Peter Malmstrom Operations Director Colin Clark colin@vantagemediagroup.co.uk GET IN TOUCH Tempus Magazine Vantage Media Limited 22 South Audley St London W1K 2NY +44 (0) 203 519 1005 info@tempusmagazine.co.uk

tempusmagazine.co.uk @tempusmagazine @tempusmagazine

Responsibly printed

COVER IMAGE “Under” – Europe’s First Underwater Restaurant. Photography: ©Ivar Kvaal, Architecture: ©Snøhetta Article on page: 32

Printed by Park Communications, UK on Edixion Offset (FSC® certified paper) using vegetable inks and sustainable printing methods. www.parkcom.co.uk 7

CONTENTS

10 The luxe list Our pick of the must-have gifts of the season 14 Natural value The National Trust’s Ben McCarthy explains why we need to protect nature 16 Pedal to the metal We round up the coolest – and most controversial – supercars of 2021 22 Detours and fine dining The remarkable history of the world’s most famous restaurant guide. Vive le Michelin!

26 Rising to the challenge Apollonia Poilâne – owner of Paris’s most famous bakery – on feeding body and soul 28 Once upon a time in China Celebrate the Year of the Ox with these incredible Swiss timepieces 32 Building a connection How Norway’s untamed landscapes are inspiring the world’s most unique architecture 40 Art market review 2020 Red Eight Gallery reveals the major trends in contemporary art investment 42 Dreaming in colour Welcome to the colourful world of the inimitable Dame Zandra Rhodes 46 Scents and sensibility Inside the sensory oasis that is London’s independent fragrance boutique, Les Senteurs 50 Time after time Everything you need to know about collecting historic horology 52 Choose to challenge Celebrate International Women’s Day with eight powerful role models 56 Ice breakers We examine the rise in explorer yachting and find out what it takes to sail through tough waters 62 Making an impact Why high net worths are letting their conscience take the lead when it comes to savvy investing 66 Fighting talk How the martial arts trend is boosting both physical and mental health 70 Lost at sea Planning your next holiday? These private islands are the most exclusive way to discover paradise 76 Worth a shot Experience the delicate delights of premium tequila 80 The future is served Meet the robotic kitchen that can imitate human chefs 82 A softer touch The interior trends adding comfort and class to any home 86 Havana nights Indulge your senses with London’s most sophisticated cigar lounges 92 Spending power How Henrys – high earners, not rich yet – may be the key to post-pandemic luxury 94 Save the date The finest events of the season 100 Tried & tasted Walk a culinary mile in the shoes of Duke & Dexter founder Archie Hewlett

ISSUE 72

32 Building a connection 9

The LUXE LIST Our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal gifts

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Red Eight Gallery With a knack for uncovering the art world’s hottest rising stars, London’s Red Eight Gallery showcases exciting new talent like Cayla Birk (pictured with her work), whose clever wit and dynamic creativity have enabled her to build a cult following around the world. Her Scriptures series could not be more relevant to the times we find ourselves in, with tongue-in-cheek doctor’s orders that explore our human obsession with self-medication. Prints available at various sizes, prices start at £8,200.

Read more on page 40 redeightgallery.com

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Love Chinois At Home by Park Chinois Park Chinois At Home is offering the Mayfair restaurant’s enviable menu for home delivery, including a special Valentine’s Day menu on 13-14 February. The romantic menu for two includes impeccably prepared Chinese dishes from executive chef Lee Che Liang, a rose-inspired Valentine’s dessert, two pre-bottled cocktails of your choice – as well as the restaurant’s signature fish chopstick holders and an elegant handwritten table setting card, ensuring your at-home dining experience is the next best thing to actually being there. parkchinois.com

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Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black Designed by renowned artist Takashi Murakami, this new take on Hublot’s Classic Fusion serves as a subtle reflection on Japanese tradition and pop culture. On the dial, face and petals of Murakami’s ‘smiling flower’ are set with 563 brilliant black diamonds, and an ingenious ball-bearing system allows the 12 petals to rotate. The minimalist dial is housed in a satin-finished and polished black ceramic case and the limited-edition watch – just 200 have been made – is powered by a Unico calibre movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

Now that’s what we call the art of time.

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The Sistine Chapel The Vatican Museum and publisher Callaway have teamed up to produce a lavish three-volume set of books recreating the renaissance wonders of The Sistine Chapel in 1:1 scale. A work of art in its own right, the 822-page, 24-inch set brings Michelangelo’s masterpieces to life with unprecedented accuracy, thanks to state-ofthe-art gigapixel photography. Five years in the making, the set is limited to 600 numbered copies and priced at £16,500. Picture perfect. callaway.com/sistinechapel

hublot.com

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The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. Emerald Isle Collection The Craft Irish Whiskey Co and artist-jeweller Fabergé have joined forces to release a covetable new collectible inspired by the Seven Wonders of Ireland.

The custom-made set features two bottles of ultra-rare 30-year-old triple distilled Irish whiskey and two incredible Fabergé creations – the first ever Fabergé Celtic Egg and a bespoke Altruist timepiece.

The bottles are set with responsibly sourced emeralds, while a rough, uncut emerald is hidden within the Fabergé egg. Each collection also includes a humidor with two Cohiba Siglo VI Grand Reserva cigars, a gold-plated cigar cutter and pipette, obsidian whiskey stones, a hip flask with a sample of the Emerald Isle whiskey – the rarest Irish whiskey in existence – and a carafe filled with Irish spring water.

100% of proceeds will be donated to charity – half to the Correa Family Foundation and half to a charity of the buyer’s choice. Sláinte. craftirishwhiskey.com

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NIWA Design Terrarium Stylish, intriguing and a calming hobby, a terrarium is the perfect addition to any home.

These miniature gardens are housed inside small and usually sealable containers such as bottles and jars. They’re perfect for adding an aesthetic flourish to brighten up a living space. As tiny but perfectly formed and fully functioning plant ecosystems, they’re mostly self-sustaining, with the plants watering themselves through transpiration and condensation. A unique gift for locked-down loved ones – even the least green-fingered. fourstore.co.uk

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Richard Anderson Savile Row tailor Richard Anderson has reimagined its distinctive house style for a striking new bespoke design – a singlebreasted leather jacket that’s destined to become a new classic. The result of a quest to make more of previously unused fabrics – the leather is a by-product sourced from world-renowned tanneries – it strikes a balance between classic and contemporary design. It boasts the brand’s one-button house style, with structured shoulders and a flattering silhouette, available in a range of colours – including red (left) – for a statement jacket that’s a cut above the rest. richardandersonltd.com

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Westley Richards Bournbrook Briefcase in Mid Tan The perfect briefcase for the most stylish of travellers, the Bournbrook Briefcase by Westley Richards is ideal for travelling between fine country homes and meetings in town. Thoughtfully designed with secure compartments for laptops, devices and documents, the case is handcrafted in England from hardwearing vegetable-tanned leather and a custom lining by renowned engraver Paul Lantuch. Named after Westley Richards’ 1894-2008 HQ in Bournbrook, Birmingham, the collection is inspired by both the checkering the brand’s master gunmakers carefully handcraft onto the gun stocking, and key details of their traditional gun cases. westleyrichards.com

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Bulgari Serpenti Spiga This reinvention of the original Serpenti watch is as much as piece of exquisite jewellery as it is a timepiece. Launched at LVMH Watch Week in January, Bulgari’s stunning new symbol of perpetual renewal is available in three expressions: 18ct rosegold set with 281 brilliant-cut diamonds and mother-of-pearl dial; and 18ct gold with black lacquered dial and a two-row bracelet set with 461 diamonds (right). The final novelty is 18ct white gold with 205 diamonds, white-gold crown set with a single cabochon-cut blue sapphire and a dial decorated with 257 snow pavé-set diamonds.

The two-row bracelet is set with a further 425 brilliant-cut diamonds. A timeless timepiece, indeed. bulgari.com

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Higashiyama Niseko Village Hotel, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve The new Higashiyama Niseko Village Hotel is an exceptional ski-in/skiout property interweaving personalised service and care with the charm of the local area’s history, culture and cuisine. Located in Japan’s winter sports capital Niseko at the base of Mount Niseko Annupuri, it is set in the Niseko United ski area’s 2,191 acres of skiable terrain. But this integrated all-season resort is not just for winter. Every space is designed to frame nature throughout the year showcasing the transitions of light and the seasons on the nearby mountains, with 50 guest rooms and suites, three fine dining offerings, and activities including treatments at Spa Chasi La Sothy to golfing or tree trekking experiences in the summer. ritzcarlton.com

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Natural value As we prepare to celebrate World Wildlife Day on 3 March, the National Trust’s Ben McCarthy tells us about the organisation’s plans for the UK’s green spaces and why it’s time to give the natural world its true value Natural beauty: The Palladian Bridge, Stourhead Garden (right); Ben McCarthy (inset)

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ature is in freefall. The stark reality is that our living planet is going through a period of mass extinction, from the human destruction of the Amazon Rainforest to the climate crisis magnifying the pressures on our natural environment. When you realise the impact of these events it can truly draw you up short.

On a global level, habitat loss, climate change and other issues such as atmospheric pollution are putting biodiversity under increasing stress and, as the Covid-19 pandemic illustrates, directly undermines our very own wellbeing.

The problem is clearly set out in the recently published review of the economics of biodiversity, wirtten by the eminent economist Prof Sir Partha Gasuptda. The report, commissioned by HM Treasury, concludes that by not accounting for the depletion of nature, we have failed to recognise that we are running down the very natural capital that is crucial for our long-term prosperity. Our living planet, and the ecosystems

that drives it, provide us with public goods and services – everything from clean air, fresh water and beautiful landscapes – that sustain society.

Yet, our demands on this natural capital have outstripped its capacity to supply them.

The publication is timely, as the Government prepares to host the UN’s COP26 Climate Change talks and gears up to new international biodiversity commitments. Working alongside other NGOs, business partners and our land managers, we are keen to demonstrate what can be done to reverse these declines and rebuild our natural capital.

The National Trust is the largest conservation charity in Europe, and the custodian of more than 250,000 hectares of land, including 780 miles of coastline across the UK – including the Jurassic Coast and White Cliffs of Dover – as well as more than 500 historic houses, castles, gardens and parks.

As head of nature conservation and restoration ecology at the National Trust, I’m privileged to be working to help translate our ambition to restore nature into practical on the ground action that delivers public benefits through nature’s recovery and nature-based solutions to the climate crisis.

Our work is coming into sharp focus as we respond to the overwhelming desire for people to get out and get close to nature following lockdown, and as we face into the very real dayto-day challenges that climate change brings to the management of our important estate.

We are committed to improving the condition of our important habitats that support internationally significant wildlife, such as our breeding sea birds on the east coast of England, or rare and threatened plants and fungi in the Atlantic Woodlands of Wales. We are also committed to increasing the area of wildlife habitat, because having better and bigger wildlife habitat is the best way to reverse the declines of biodiversity, as well as supporting wildlife move across the landscape in response to climate change. By restoring natural habitats we are securing a range of public benefits such as our flood plain restoration, which reduces flood risk and 14

supports threatened species such as the evocative Curlew thrive on these culturally rich landscapes.

Through changes to our land management and working with our tenants and partners alike we aim to deliver greater public benefit. For example, by creating and restoring bigger areas that are rich in wildflowers, we are supporting pollinators like bumblebees, moths and beetles and securing the public benefit such pollinators provide, estimated to be £500,000 each year.

As the UK enters into a new era beyond the European Union, there is huge opportunity for our government to develop a world beating environment that rewards farmers and land managers for the public benefit they deliver. We know the public is calling out for a reverse in the decline of wildlife and opportunities to get out and enjoy nature – the very same drivers that established the National Trust 125 years ago – for the restorative power of nature.

The National Trust is determined to aid nature’s recovery and on track to being a net zero carbon organisation by 2030. Be it restored peatlands locking away their carbon soils or floodplain meadows reducing flood risk, we are committed to playing our part and ensuring we deliver for nature and people. We hope you'll come and see for yourself and lend your support for nature’s recovery. nationaltrust.org.uk

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© Lucid Air 16

PEDAL TO THE METAL From electric hyper cars to road-legal race cars, futuristic concepts and bold new designs, we gear up for the most exciting – and controversial – cars of 2021

BUILT FOR SPEED | MERCEDES-AMG ONE The highly anticipated Merc-AMG One hypercar has been making headlines since it was announced back in 2017. Releaseed this year, the car features a 1.6-litre V6 engine – straight from the brands’ Petronas Formula 1 racing cars, no less – with an output of more than 1,000bhp and a unique 11,000rpm.

The two-seater high performance vehicle reaches top speeds of beyond 217mph, but despite its phenomenal speed and power has become the first Formula 1 car with MOT approval, meaning it is suitable to drive on the road as well as on the track. Its lightweight, high-strength carbon-fibre monocoque body is also developed from F1, while the 10-spoke forged aluminium wheel with centre lock is unique to the Mercedes-AMG One. “I can still hardly believe there will soon be a hypercar with a Formula 1 engine,” said F1 star Lewis Hamilton during testing in 2020. “We won the world championship with this engine in 2015, and I was involved in its development for a long time. I’m very proud of the extraordinary effort Mercedes-AMG has invested in this project. This car is absolutely unique.” mercedes-benz.co.uk Photos: © Daimler AG

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SPEED FUTURE FORWARD | TESLA CYBERTRUCK Designed to offer electric-car aficionados the utility of a truck and performance of a sportscar, Tesla’s futuristic answer to the luxury SUV (right) is built to be durable, versatile and capable when the first vehicles are delivered in late 2021.

The Cybertruck is made of ultra-hard 30X cold-rolled stainless steel and will be available in three variants – single motor rear-wheel drive, dual motor all-wheel drive, and tri-motor allwheel drive – with a range of 500-plus miles and payload of up to 3,500lbs.

However, the Cybertruck’s development has seen some controversy – an unfortunate launch gaffe in November 2019 saw the truck’s armoured windows shatter during a durability demonstration and the car has not been deemed road-legal in the EU or, as yet, in the UK. A year later, Tesla founder Elon Musk suggested design tweaks were still being made. “[At Tesla] we always want to make the car that we deliver be better than the car we unveil. And that’s the goal with the Cybertruck,” said Musk.

Tesla fans seem to believe that’s exactly what they will get, with more than 650,000 trucks preordered by mid-2020. tesla.com

UNAPOLOGETIC POWER | NARAN HYPER COUPE Gearing up for a May launch, Naran Automotive’s first car is a front-engined, four-seater hyper coupe (left) limited to just 49 examples.

Inspired by the world of motorsports, Naran partnered with EY3 Engineering and Racing Dynamics to create a GT3-style with all the design elements of a world class hypercar – including a sweeping rear wing. A 5.0-litre twinturbo V8 engine – placed in the mid-front of the car – delivers 1,048bhp and 1,036Nm of torque.

Drawing on racing technology, the Naran Hyper Coupe uses 390mm performance carbon ceramic disks originally developed for 24-hour endurance racing, and a GT3 cooling system that allows the car to cope with hard track use while reducing wear and tear on the brakes.

Founded by businessman Ameerh Naran, the company’s team includes former Jaguar Land Rover engineer Steve Pegg and designer Jowyn Wong – best known for working on the Apollo IE. While the basic Hyper Coupe is impressive in its own right, customisation options – from an exhaustive list of everything from paint finishes and upholstery, to naming one’s own model – mean the buyer is guaranteed a completely bespoke vehicle. » naran-automotive.com

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SOPHISTICATED STYLE | LUCID AIR Lucid Motors is a California start-up making its electric debut with the Air. Described in turns as a super-limo and a hyper-saloon, this sophisticated car is made to be driven – and driven in.

The Air Dream Edition offers 1,080bhp, with a projected range of 503 miles – rivalling the longestablished Tesla – and can charge to 300 miles in just 20 minutes.

Its fluid form is inspired by jet aerodynamics – in fact, the Air is the world’s most aero-efficient luxury car with a verified 0.21 coefficient of drag – while the glass canopy roof adds a sense of grandeur to the already spacious cabin.

With more options to choose from – from the basic Air Pure (coming early 2022) to the 517-mile-ranging Air Grand Tourer (summer 2021) this blend of comfort and technology is California dreaming at its best. lucidmotors.com

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SPEED

SILENT SUPERCAR | RIMAC C_TWO This sexy second supercar from electric performance car company Rimac Automobili is designed to be as capable on the track as it is crossing continents.

With 1,887bhp from four e-motors, it is capable of up to 258mph – and 0-62mph in 1.85 seconds.

Its sleek exterior and interior design is capped by dramatic butterfly doors (above) designed for kerbside admiration and sophisticated access.

What’s more, for would-be racetrack pros, the C_Two’s on-board system offers a ‘driving coach’ function, where you can load selected racetracks and a virtual driving coach will offer guidance on racing lines, braking/acceleration points and steering inputs.

Sleek, stylish and super-connected, for £1.7m this might be the most fun electric car ever made. ctwo.rimac-automobili.com

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Detours and fine dining For 120 years, the Michelin Guide has been synonymous with the world’s best dining experiences. We look back at the surprising motoring origins of the ultimate restaurant review Words: Rory FH Smith

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maps, information on how to change a tyre, where to fill up with fuel, and – perhaps most importantly – where to find board and lodgings along the way.

In time, the brothers would be recognised as part of a wave of 20th-century French visionaries, joining the likes of engineering genius Gustave Eiffel, fashion designer Coco Chanel and aviation pioneer Louis Blériot.

Together, they would transform France into an industrial powerhouse. Initially, André and Édouard produced the guide and distributed it free of charge to motorists, spreading the Michelin name far and wide within their small, but financially empowered, target audience.

Road maps soon followed, making use of André’s skills as a cartographer, which resulted in a rich mix of publications that enticed drivers to explore and take detours to find the best dining spots in the country. With more motorists out and about touring the nation in their cars, the brothers knew an uptick in tyre sales would soon follow.

After two decades, the popular guide was still produced and distributed free of charge to motorists. There seldom seemed a reason to change the formula until, one fateful day, when André stopped at a tyre shop to see a stack of his beloved guides being used to prop up a workbench. Understandably disappointed, the brothers rethought their offer and launched a new guide priced at seven francs: they reportedly reasoned that “man only truly respects what he pays for.” Alongside the cover price, the guide also expanded into listing hotels in Paris as well as lists of restaurants according to specific categories. Now fully independent of advertisers and with a growing reputation, the guide could begin to flex its powers of advocacy and influence in hospitality as well as motoring. »

n 1900, brothers André and Édouard Michelin were scratching their heads trying to think up a solution to a familiar business problem. Their fledgling eponymous tyre company had been running for 11 years but their supply of potential customers was proving problematic. Raised in the quaint French town of Clermont-Ferrand, the brothers had taken over their grandfather’s ailing manufacturing business that made farm equipment and rubber balls in 1889, renaming it Michelin & Co. Within two years, the pair had pivoted the business and pioneered the first detachable pneumatic bike tyre. By their seventh year, the brothers had graduated to car tyres, helped beat the world speed record and invented a charismatic cartoon character made from tyres called Bibendum – and soon known as ‘the Michelin Man’. By all accounts, their company was off to a good start, but André and Édouard had higher aspirations.

The problem they faced appeared to be out of their control. Despite the invention of the first French automobile in the late-1850s, cars were slow to take off. By 1900, there were no more than 3,000 cars in the country. Compared with the trusty horse and carriage, motorcars were noisy, dirty, slow, complicated and, above all, hugely expensive. But André and Édouard were undeterred. Fuelled by a grand vision for France’s automobile industry and André’s early career as a cartographer, the pair set about developing a guide book to help motorists develop their road trips. With this savvy marketing manoeuvre, it was hoped that the tyre manufacturer’s diversification into publishing would make car ownership more attractive and, in turn, create more demand for the tyres they ran on. The guide took the form of a small red book filled with useful information for travellers, such as

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TASTE MAKERS By 1926, the Michelin brothers had gathered a team of mystery diners to visit and review restaurants anonymously, a secret process that remains closely guarded to this day. Awarding stars to only the finest dining establishments, the inspectors initially handed out only one star until a hierarchy of zero, one, two, and three stars was introduced five years later. One star was awarded to restaurants with “high quality cooking, worthy of a stop,” two signified an establishment with “excellent cooking, worthy of detour,” and three was reserved for places with “exceptional cuisine, worthy of a special journey.” To this day, the criteria and covert way of awarding the stars remain unchanged.

As the Michelin Guide simply states, it’s a form of recognition “coveted by many chefs but bestowed upon only an excellent few.”

While the prominence and influence of the little red guide began to grow, so did the appearance and profile of the company’s inflated mascot, Bibendum. The brothers originally employed artist Marius Rossillon – better known as O’Galop – to create the charismatic cigarsmoking and monocle-wearing mascot (below), taking his name from the strapline, “Nunc est bibendum”, which means “now is the time to drink”. An odd choice of phrase for a motoring supplier, the slogan was later updated to “The Michelin Man drinks up obstacles,” often written alongside images of the character sipping a cocktail of broken glass and nails. Despite the eccentric backstory, Bibendum was a hit with the wealthy, middle-class elite who liked to drive, drink and dine in equal measure. “The monocle, the cigar and the girth of Bibendum were all signifiers of the leisured bourgeois male, and the Michelin ranking system made Parisian/ metropolitan norms the standard for attribution of cultural value throughout France and around the world,” said Professor Patrick Young, a specialist in 19th- and 20th-century French history at the University of MassachusettsLowell in an interview with the BBC in the year of Bibendum’s 120th birthday.

Since the inception of André (pictured right)

and Édoard’s cunning marketing initiative in 1900, more than 30 million copies of the guide have been sold worldwide. While the Michelin star system is a globally recognised measure of culinary success and achievement, it continues to rate and rank more than 30,000 establishments, across 30 territories and three continents.

But the guide’s reputation as a tastemaker doesn’t come without controversy. The institution’s ability to instil everything from triumph to terror and fear into the hearts of even the hardiest chefs is remarkable, particularly given its industrial origins. Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay was reportedly reduced to tears when a restaurant under his name went from two stars to zero, while chefs such as Skye Gyngell have been known to reject the rating, citing the extreme pressure that comes with it.

Even the neat description under the stars can be interpreted as a discreet warning of the potential outcome: “Getting a star (or three) can change the fate of a restaurant”.

Despite its controversial reputation, the guide and its infamous rating system now celebrate over 120 years in operation. While André and Édoard wouldn’t have predicted the scale of the guide’s success, as we emerge from a period of prolonged global restrictions, this unlikely institution – standing for exploration, excellence and enjoyment – has never felt so relevant and welcome. Vive le Guide Michelin. guide.michelin.com 24

INDULGE

GLOBAL GASTRONOMY The 2021 Michelin Guide lists 132 threestar restaurants, with just 18 holding the Guide’s ‘luxurious’ distinction. Discover some of the world’s most extraordinary restaurants worth planning a journey for...

ALAIN DUCASSE AU PLAZA ATHÉNÉE, PARIS Alain Ducasse has three restaurants with three-star rating, including The Dorchester, London and Morpheus, Macau.

His eponymous restaurant at Hotel Plaza Athénée exemplifies his concept of ‘naturalité’. Stand out specialities include lentilles vertes du puy and couer de boeuf. dorchestercollection.com PER SE, NEW YORK Thomas Keller’s Per Se is artistic gastronomy at its finest. Two tasting menus showcase balanced, varied and seasonal dishes, such as herb-roasted Scottish langoustine and Hawaiian heart of peach palm bavarois.

The Michelin Guide praises the restaurant’s “legendary” product sourcing. thomaskeller.com JOËL ROBUCHON, TOKYO Joël Robuchon was the most Michelinstarred chef in the world when he died in 2018, and his eponymous restaurant in Tokyo is continuing his legacy of artistic French cuisine. Located in an 18thcentury château at Yebisu Garden Place, specialities include Le Caviar Impérial, and an impressive wine list. joel-robuchon.com LA PERGOLA, ROME Located at Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel, La Pergola (below) offers a panoramic view of Italy's Eternal City, while chef Heinz Beck’s 10-course tasting menu offers a high-concept twist on Mediterranean flavours.Dishes include escalope of duck foie gras, and lobster on emulsion of spring onion brûlé. romecavalieri.com

Images: © Michelin

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RISING

to the CHALLENGE The owner of Paris’s most famous bakery, Apollonia Poilâne tells Tempus how 2020 was a time of discovery and why the culture of baking can feed far more than our bodies Words: Michelle Johnson

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oilâne is the most famous bakery in Paris. Its signature loaf is still made from the same sourdough starter that the boulangerie’s founder, Pierre Léon Poilâne, brought from Normandy in 1932. That large, crusted loaf – known simply as Miche Poilâne – is made of just four ingredients: sourdough, sea salt from Guérande, stone-ground wheat flour and water. Yet, it has become the daily bread of discerning Parisians, as well as the mainstay of Michelin-starred restaurants, luxury hotels, and the brand’s café: Comptoir Poilâne.

Apollonia Poilâne (right) is the thirdgeneration CEO of the family-run bakery, which now boasts four locations in Paris – the original boulangerie in St Germain des Près, Le Marais, Buttes Chaumont and the Eiffel Tower – and one in London’s Belgravia.

The French-American businesswoman took over the family business aged just 18 after her parents, Lionel and Irena, died in a helicopter accident. 10 months later, Apollonia accepted an admission to study economics at Harvard College, gaining her undergraduate degree while simultaneously starting her career.

“It was hard, and I definitely had to adapt my plans. I loved my four years at Harvard because I met people from different backgrounds and interests, and that diversity of thought was incredibly enriching,” she says. 18 years later, her passion for baking – and her business – is still fresh. “For me, the challenges in the long run have been nurturing the conversation between acting fast and thinking long-term. After 18 years of running the family business, I’m still so proud of making my own bread, and I think that says a lot about the legacy I’ve received from my parents, and the tradition I nurture daily.”

In fact, with Poilâne celebrating last year its 88th anniversary at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi –

as well as 20 years in the UK – that legacy has been a driving force for success during the Covid-19 pandemic.

“Bakers understand that every day is a new day,” Apollonia explains. “In the bake house, we’re constantly adapting to our environment – whether the season is hot or cold, dry or humid – we have to embrace change.” This sentiment is inspired by Apollonia’s mantra – and the bakery’s tagline: contemporain par tradition.

“When the global lockdowns first started in March 2020, we had to close our cafés and lose our restaurant and hotel clients. It would have been easy to think that was a disaster for the business, but I decided to look at the events in a positive way and take it as an opportunity to do better,” she says. “My job is to feed people both body and soul. As an essential business we were able to continue to operate, which was a relief, but it was also a tremendous responsibility because we knew we had to offer people something more.”

The Poilâne bakeries began selling essential items such as vegetable baskets and eggs in addition to their refined range of baked goods and biscuits, matching supply to their customers’ demand. “When we realised we weren’t selling as many pastries but people couldn’t find eggs in the supermarkets, it made sense to offer the surplus eggs we didn’t need. After all, chickens don’t give a damn about Covid-19 confinement.

It was a small thing, but it meant our customers were able to rely on us.” The bakery also launched a linen tea towel to celebrate its 20th anniversary in London, and Apollonia teaches bread baking on MasterClass.

A SLICE OF HISTORY Poilâne owes much of its fame to its rich artistic history. During the 1930s, Pierre was

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a hit in contemporary art circles thanks to his occasional acceptance of paintings as payment – some of these pieces still hang in St Germain des Près today. His son, Lionel, became a celebrity in his own right, transforming Pierre’s rustic charm into an international sensation.

Soon enough, Gerard Depardieu was among the brand’s regular celebrity customers, while Frank Sinatra, Lauren Bacall and Robert De Niro had loaves delivered to their hotels while on location. Lionel’s friendship with surrealist artist Salvador Dalí saw the pair collaborate on bread-based artworks from ornate picture frames to a birdcage that allowed the bird inside to peck its way to freedom, and an extravagant bread recreation of Dali’s hotel bedroom at Le Meurice in 1971. Apollonia and her artist sister Athena also inherited their forebears’ love of art and baking philosophy.

“I think being in the Latin Quarter in that era played a huge role in our [association] with art, but bread has always been an artistic medium,” says Apollonia. “Hunger is a very basic need, and bread is soulful. In many ways, our whole culture is built around bread. So many of our idioms involve bread: work is our ‘bread and butter’; ‘bread’ and ‘dough’ are both words for money; when you’re pregnant you’ve got a bun in the oven. Bread can start revolutions.”

Apollonia’s 2019 book Poilâne: The Secrets of the World-Famous Bread Bakery delves further into this philosophy as well as the history of different grains and staple foods in various cultures. “What is a piece of bread?” she asks.

“For me, it’s something that has been grown and made collectively, is interconnected with culture and elevates the body and soul. Ultimately, bread feeds much more than hunger.” poilane.com

INDULGE

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Once upon a time in China Celebrate the Year of the Ox with these elaborate timepieces honouring the Chinese New Year

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WATCHES

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hen it comes to gift-giving, one can rarely go wrong with haute horology. It’s little wonder that, each year, the watch industry honours Chinese New Year with some of its most magnificent novelties.

Yet, the strong link between Chinese New Year and fine Swiss watchmaking is surprising in many ways. While the Chinese watch market has thrived in recent years, the vast majority of its consumers – 70%, in fact – bought their watches outside of China, preferring to shop in tax-friendly cities like London, Dubai and Hong Kong.

This all changed in 2020, with Covid-19 restrictions on international travel forcing brands to refocus on domestic markets. While, globally, Swiss watch exports saw a decline of 28.3% in the first nine months of 2020, mainland China became the first country to see an upturn in sales – shipments increased by 48% in June alone, rising to 78.8% in September.

As a result, for the first time in the history of Swiss watch manufacture, mainland China may be the biggest market for domestic watch sales in the world.

Despite Swiss brands’ creative lunar calendar releases, watches are by no means a common gift for Chinese New Year – traditional presents are more likely to include alcohol, tea and fruit baskets, clothing or home supplies – and etiquette suggests giving a timepiece is extremely bad luck.

In Mandarin, the phrase ‘giving a clock’ is a close homonym of a phrase for death or funeral, and so such a gift might suggest the recipient’s time is actually running out. These themed wristwatches are more often viewed as a way to mark the year while displaying the skill and expertise of the watchmaker’s rarest techniques.

This year’s selection of novelties represents the second year of the Chinese zodiac, the Year of the Ox, beginning on 12 February. Representing hard work, positivity and honesty, the Ox is the stable yin that will hopefully balance 2020’s tumultuous yang – and these timepieces incorporate luxurious golds, fine enamelling, engraving and other decorative techniques to bring those qualities to life.

BLANCPAIN TRADITIONAL CHINESE CALENDAR This 50-piece limited-edition Traditional Chinese Calendar watch (above and left) pays homage to the Middle Kingdom through its grand feu enamel dial, complex Chinese calendar indications – including zodiac signs, five elements and ten heavenly stems – and moon phases. The timepiece is housed in a platinum 45mm case, featuring a crown set with a cabochon-cut ruby.

Blancpain’s Traditional Chinese Calendar also comes in a non-limited version in red gold with finely guilloché oscillating weight. » blancpain.com 29

JAQUET DROZ PETITE HEURE MINUTE BUFFALO Jaquet Droz selected two distinctive artisanal techniques to apply to its four spectacular new Petite Heure Minute Buffalo pieces.

Two contain miniature paintings depicting a peaceful ox against a background of mistcovered mountains, while the other two designs feature relief engraving, an artisanal technique cherished by Jaquet Droz. Each of these four handcrafted compositions (right and below) is being released in a series of eight. jaquet-droz.com

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WATCHES VACHERON CONSTANTIN MÉTIERS D’ART THE LEGEND OF THE CHINESE ZODIAC YEAR OF THE OX The Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Ox is limited to 12 each of two expressions – platinum with blue dial (right) and pink gold with bronze dial. The dials feature a Chinese foliage motif and rare grand feu enamelling to enhance the intensity of the colours. The hand engraved ox – in platinum or pink gold – is then delicately applied to the centre of the hands-free dial. Powered by the brand’s calibre 2460 G4, four apertures show the hours, minutes, days and dates, and the watch is finished with a Mississippiensis alligator leather strap. vacheron-constantin.com

PIAGET ALTIPLANO YEAR OF THE OX Piaget’s new themed version of its ultra-thin Altiplano model, the 38mm Altiplano Year of the Ox (right) features a cloisonné dial, skilfully executed by world-renowned masterenameller Anita Porchet, and comes in an 18ct white-gold case adorned with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.71ct.) The updated model is powered by the brand’s exceptional 430P hand-wound movement that measures a mere 2.1mm thickness. It is paired with an elegant black leather strap fitted with an 18ct whitegold pin buckle. piaget.com

CHOPARD LUC XP URUSHI YEAR OF THE OX Chopard’s LUC collection presents its ninth Chinese New Year collector’s edition timepiece with the ultra-thin XP Urushi Year of the Ox (right).

Limited to just 88 pieces, the Urushi lacquer dial depicts a scene that Chopard describes as “evocative of ancestral toil, humble prosperity and timeless elegance.” For the glittering dial scene, Chopard turned to Japanese master lacquer artist Minori Koizum, before encasing the work of art in an 18ct rose-gold case. chopard.com

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BUILDING A CONNECTION

Famed architect and Snøhetta co-founder Kjetil Trædal Thorsen takes Tempus on a tour of Norway’s untamed landscapes to share his architectural inspiration Words: Daniel Pembrey

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Concept dining: Snøhetta designed submerged restaurant, Under (images © Ivar Kvaal, Stian Broch, and André Martinsen)

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orn in the small fishing town Haugesund on Norway’s exposed west coast, Kjetil Trædal Thorsen had little idea his work would come to define Norwegian architecture.

In the 1960s, before Norway’s oil wealth, Haugesund was mostly known for its herring catch and according to Thorsen, “smelled of fish all the way up to the ’70s”.

But in co-founding Snøhetta, one of the world’s most celebrated architecture practices, Thorsen has put his hometown on the map.

Founded in 1989 and now based in Oslo, Snøhetta blends architecture – buildings, landscape and interior – with product design and graphic design plus a philosophy to enhance the appreciation of the setting. The firm’s most famous international projects include the Bibliotheca Alexandrina in Alexandria, Egypt; the National September 11 Memorial Pavilion in New York; the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture in Dhahran, Saudi Arabia and Shanghai Grand Opera House, China.

It is no wonder Thorsen’s work has received

such global acclaim – the 62-year-old architect was educated in Germany, the UK, Norway and Austria – yet the Haugesund area remained a “touchstone” and, he says, the small town is a fitting departure for a Norwegian adventure.

In fact, to capture a true flavour of Norway’s diverse landscape and architecture, Thorsen recommends beginning on the wild west coast – Karmøy is known as the home of Viking king Harald Fairhair, who first united Norway – before heading south to Lindesnes, east to Oslo, and north through national parks to Ålesund.

Thorsen says Karmøy is a perfect spot for dedicated fishermen – “get provisioned at Åkrehamn Trålbøteri; it can also supply you with good chocolate,” he advises – while Lindesnes, Norway’s southernmost mainland point, is a draw for gastronomes and architectural fans alike. It’s here that Snøhetta and partners launched its Under restaurant project in 2019.

Meaning both ‘below’ and ‘wonder’ in Norwegian, Under is a 110ft restaurant submerged into the storm-prone seas at a 25-degree angle. The 34

oak- and textile-clad interior culminates in a 35ft wide, 11ft tall window on to an ever-shifting aquamarine world.

The restaurant, symbolising a quest for both human comfort and union with a beautiful yet brutal realm, characterises Snøhetta’s philosophy of enhancing one’s environment.

“Under proposes unexpected prepositions, challenging your physical placement in the environment,” says Thorsen. “You may find yourself under water, over the seabed, between land and sea; this will offer you new perspectives and ways of seeing the world, both beneath and beyond the waterline.”

Succulent, briny-fresh fruits de mer complete the visitor experience here. Thorsen has fished these waters with his own sons, hauling in crabs and langoustines. It calls to mind another tenet of Snøhetta’s philosophy. “In nature, a shrimp is female and male during a lifespan. We refer to it as ‘transposition’: the ability to dissolve boundaries between disciplines, namely landscape, building, interior.” »

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CULTURE CAPITAL Snøhetta’s first office was an attic space above Dovrehallen – a traditional bar in the centre of Oslo. ‘Dovre’ refers to Dovrefjell, the mountain range in the centre of the country (it’s no coincidence that Dovrefjell’s tallest peak is named Snøhetta). Visitors to the city can still visit Dovrehallen, as Snøhetta staff regularly did in the ’90s, for drinks and smørbrød.

Nearby, you can eat at the elegant Theatercaféen, near playwright Henrik Ibsen and artist Edvard Munch’s historical haunts. Ibsen’s Peer Gynt, which mythologised mountainous Dovrefjell, is one of Thorsen’s favourite stories.

A short walk from this historic hub is the startling Oslo Opera House – Snøhetta’s multiaward-winning breakthrough project. The company’s goal was to break down the hierarchy typically associated with these venues. “You can do more than go to the opera and ballet in Norway; you can walk on it,” says Thorsen. “The more you interact with anything – sit on a chair, drink from a cup – the more it becomes, if only briefly, something belonging to you. It is about enabling collective ownership that creates a link between humans and the world around them. If that link is successfully established, people will become more conscious of their surroundings and take care of them.” » 36

The Oslo Opera House (© Snøhetta/Jens Passoth) 37

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WILD DESIGNS Drive five hours north from Oslo to reach Dovrefjell–Sunndalsfjella National Park, where Snøhetta created its sublime glass-fronted Reindeer Pavilion, designed for viewing the otherworldly muskox, among other wildlife. It offers basic accommodation during the summer season, or visitors can opt for the charmingly rustic Hjerkinn Mountain Lodge, which looks after guests on a site where travellers have been welcomed for more than 1,200 years.

“The main thing is to walk,” says Thorsen of visiting the majestic landscape. “My grandfather said that when you are out walking, you have to look forward to see where you are going; you have to look down so that you do not stumble; you have to look out to dream; and, occasionally, you have to turn around and look back at where you came from. The two interesting landscapes in the world are mountains and oceans.”

In the picturesque town of Ålesund, four hours’ west of Dovrefjell, these two landscapes finally meet. Ravaged by fire in 1904, the coastal fishing town was rebuilt in a remarkably consistent Art Nouveau style. Colourful, quaint buildings nestle around tranquil waterways. More recently, Snøhetta redesigned the waterside Hotel Brosundet to celebrate its character as a former warehouse, exposing heavy-duty wooden beams in the rooms. Part of the project was the conversion of an attached lighthouse into a single suite spread over two floors, allowing guests to shelter in style at this gateway to the high seas. “There is a terrific late-winter fishing festival in Ålesund,” adds Thorsen.

As for the next destination, Thorsen says Snøhetta may soon be returning to Norway’s natural habitats. “One of the paradoxes of Norway, with its abundant space and reverence for nature, is that we now have too many large cabins encroaching on wilderness,” he say, “so we are devising a set of smaller cabins with a more sustainable footprint, in collaboration with a Norwegian company called Nature Compact Living. Stay tuned – you may just want one.” snohetta.com

One with nature: The Reindeer Pavilion, Dovrefjell–Sunndalsfjella National Park (Images © Diephotodesigner.de OHG 2010, Roger Brennhagen, and Ketil Jacobsen)

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Art Market Performance 2020

For art's sake: Cayla Birk’s Scriptures series (main); (top l-r) Linger Longer and SolexRex, both Rachel Chamberlain; Matthew Admans with a work by Panik

Red Eight Gallery’s creative director Matthew Admans talks about how the challenges of 2020 have made the art world more dynamic and accessible than ever before

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espite the challenges and hardships of the past year, 2020 has arguably been one of the most dynamic and transformational years for the art market. Social distancing requirements have driven galleries, auction houses and collectors to embrace the internet like never before. This has in turn made the art world more accessible, with greater numbers able to attend online auctions and exhibitions.

There’s no denying that the market was hit hard in the first half of 2020, with closures of art fairs and exhibitions the world over and auction sales significantly depressed.

Yet the art market has proved its resilience by bouncing back fast and rapidly adapting to radically changed circumstances. Sales in the second half of the year were 4.5% higher than the last six months of 2019 according to ArtTactic research and analysis.

What we’ve seen here at Red Eight Galley is the metamorphosis of the art world into an entity that is more innovative, more digital, and consequently more open to new and younger buyers. Online-only art sales began to gather pace over the first half of the year, with particular success over the summer as the leading auction houses devoted more resources to this thriving sales channel. At Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips, online sales between January and August in 2020 rose to $596.7m – up from $168.2m for all of 2019.

Looking at the overall market share, the rapid advance of online art sales becomes even clearer; in the first half of 2020 the share of online sales rose from 10% of total sales in 2019 to 37% in the first half of 2020. According to the Hiscox Online Art Trade Report 2020, online sales of art and collectibles totalled a record $4.82bn last year.

Part of the momentum behind online art sales is coming from younger and newer collectors making their first forays into the art world from the comfort of their own laptop or smartphone. Compared to 2019 the number of new buyers attending Christie’s online sales increased by 89%, and first-time online buyers were up

228% year-on-year. These newer and younger buyers are also embracing non-traditional platforms like Instagram to view and discover art on their own terms.

These powerful trends are also helping to transform the composition of the art market by giving greater exposure to emerging artists. Up until recently artists would have to work closely with a gallery and exhibit widely to build up their reputation, but today it is easier than ever for emerging artists to grow a loyal following on social media without the endorsement of big-name galleries.

As well as embracing the online world as a medium to discover, view and buy art, the pandemic has also created new opportunities for innovation. At Red Eight Gallery we have expanded our unique corporate leasing initiative, a unique service which adds significant value to our clients’ investments. Client artworks are leased to corporate clients including hotels and office spaces in return for a fixed fee. Heading into 2021 we will continue to expand this service so more clients can benefit from this lucrative opportunity and unlock even greater value from their investment.

While it’s too early to predict the trajectory of 2021, the future looks bright. The pressures of Covid-19 have accelerated existing trends towards online sales and brought renewed vigour and innovation to the art world.

The result is a market that is ready to move forward and is in a stronger position now to achieve robust growth than it was pre-pandemic.

Here at Red Eight Gallery we are looking forward to opening our doors later this year which will provide the perfect backdrop to several exciting collaborations with our partner artists. The gallery will also continue to support emerging talent with new artists coming onboard throughout the year. I look forward very much to welcoming you to our new home as soon as it is safe to do so.

For more information, visit: redeightgallery.com 40

PARTNER FEATURE

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Dreaming in

COLOUR British fashion designer Dame Zandra Rhodes talks about her latest collaboration with Savoir – and finally finding the time for a good night’s sleep Words: Chantelle Billson

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enowned British textile and fashion designer Dame Zandra Rhodes is no stranger to royalty or the rich and famous. Appointed her DBE by the Queen in 2014, Rhodes’ diverse clientele has included Diana, Princess of Wales, the Princess Royal, Dame Elizabeth Taylor and Queen frontman Freddie Mercury, to name a few.

Over the span of almost 60 years, she has revolutionised fashion and design through her textile prints, founding London’s Fashion and Textile Museum and collaborating with the likes of Valentino, Topshop, Mac cosmetics and more.

Throughout 2020, Rhodes, 80, has been inspired by the impact of Covid-19 – specifically the amount of time that the jet-setting designer has spent in her colourful London home (above the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey) during lockdown.

“All of a sudden, we’re looking at our homes and realising that they are more of a treasure than we recognised,” she says. Her latest collaboration is a bed and headboard design for British Luxury bed maker, Savoir. The new product features a selection of vibrant reworkings of her celebrated Field of Lilies motif – inspired by the pivotal 1973 collection in which Rhodes debuted her signature silk-screen Lilies – now launched in a variety of new colour palettes made exclusively for the Savoir collaboration, which starts at £33,680.

Rhodes describes the print – here, pictured with pops of coral and pink on vibrant greens – as “peaceful and romantic”. The design can be printed on a choice of fabrics including velvet, textured linen, viscose and cotton. Beneath the stylish headboard the structure of each Savoir bed is handcrafted using natural materials to provide a temperature-controlled bed to enhance sleep.

Here, Rhodes tells Tempus about her collaboration with Savoir, how she relaxes before bed – and why she can’t recall any of her sweet dreams. »

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Zandra, tell us about your collaboration with Savoir?

I received a magical award from the Walpole British Luxury Awards in 2019 and that’s when I had the chance to view a Savoir bed on display.

It was love at first sight. As a designer, you take part in collaborations hoping that you’re uniquely adding to the product. In this collaboration, we’ve created a wonderful collection of Lilies colourways and the bed can be personalised across every element of its making, which is why it is so special. I keep thinking about how to design my bedroom around my Savoir bed. Perhaps I will have a canopy and drape it with a luxurious green net – like Miss Havisham in my Savoir tomb!

What inspired you to open up your home for this photoshoot?

Savoir wanted the shoot to relate to me as a designer. I believe that if you’re putting your name behind something, you need to be involved in the whole process. It needs to be a very special collaboration, and shooting in my Rainbow Penthouse felt very special to myself and the team. You see that the Savoir bed fits into my personal environment just as well as it would fit into someone else’s environment.

Years ago, before I moved here and my life became so busy, I had a very nice bedroom and would dress my bed in different glamorous sheets. I can’t wait to do that again –it will undoubtedly look very exotic. The Savoir x Zandra Rhodes bed is a wonderful statement piece and, once you start thinking that you spend a third of your life asleep, isn’t it wonderful to be able to have a bed that allows you such a sumptuous rest? It is a marvellous and important addition to everyone’s home – and the best investment one can make.

Where do you find your inspiration?

Mostly in people. When I look back at my career, I was first inspired by pop art – I was influenced hugely by Andy Warhol. Once that period smoothed over I visited Tokyo in 1971, where Issey Miyake sent me a bouquet of lilies and I started drawing them That was the beginning. I got into creating lilies and flowers.

I’ve known many different, exotic people through my life and have been lucky enough to be inspired by their creativity. There was an amazing stylist called Chelita Secunda, who was a muse to both [British fashion designer] Ossie Clark – who dominated the ’60s fashion scene – and myself. Secunda was one of those amazing people who would wear things in totally different ways, like putting dresses on back-to-front. She would come to my house in the evening and try things on and make me look at the garments in a

completely new way. I find it’s best to get all sorts of things on a rail, not knowing at all what you’re going to do with them, and then someone will say: “It could look like this”.

What are your career highlights?

Being appointed a dame by the Queen – although being called a dame makes me feel extra old. I am very lucky in that I’ve managed to have a career designing prints for fabrics.

When I left college, everyone said my prints were too extreme and no one would want to buy them, and yet I ended up setting up a studio teaching and printing for myself. I’m lucky that I’m still here and able to create prints that people want to buy and will treasure. I feel very honoured that people remember my designs and want them to be saved.

How does your interior style reflect your personality and designs?

I love collecting things. I’ve been collecting art since I left college, 60 years ago; first vases and teapots – I thought they were affordable pieces – then, after the ceramics, I collected paintings and sculpture, and everything I live with now.

The first item I bought was a pink coffee pot by Carol McNicoll with matching cups, and saucers that looked like hands. Carol came to work for me as a printer in the ’70s, and she had just got into the Royal College of Art as a ceramist; I saw her work and, from then on, have collected it.

My personality definitely plays a part in both the interior and exterior of my home. As you can see, my bed is surrounded by screens carved in India, alongside wonderful vases by Kate Malone and paintings by artists like Duggie Fields and Andrew Stahl. I also have a magical chandelier

by Andrew Logan. I’ve got all sort of things made by my artist friends.

Working creatively day to day, do you have an evening routine?

No! Prior to Covid-19, I had never had as much as seven hours of sleep. I have never been aware of my dreams. Maybe it’s down to my strange sleep patterns – I would typically work all night to get ready to go off to America, where I was living half the time. Now I’m in London all the time it has been quite a lovely contrast.

I have a TV for the very first time in my life. I sit up in my bed, which is piled with cushions, and watch it before I fall asleep – but I always have my sketchbook to hand to make drawings and notes on what I’m supposed to do the next day.

I’m not sure if I’d call it a bedtime routine, but it’s my relaxation time. savoirbeds.com; zandrarhodes.com

I'VE KNOWN MANY DIFFERENT, EXOTIC PEOPLE THROUGH MY LIFE AND HAVE BEEN INSPIRED BY THEIR CREATIVITY 44

DESIGN

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Scents and sensibility

London’s oldest perfumery, Les Senteurs has championed the world’s most unique independent fragrances since 1984. Here, director Chris Hawksley tells Tempus about

Words: Polly Jean Harrison

the power of perfume 46

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n 1984 Betty Hawksley had the revolutionary idea to open a perfumery in London that stocked no big-name brands but, instead was devoted to the creations of small, independent fragrance houses. With her husband Michael, she founded Les Senteurs as a specialist shop in a tiny jewel-like space in the heart of Belgravia. Wanting to spotlight these unique brands, the couple aimed to curate a collection of little-known but innovative fragrances from all over the world; little did they know that Les Senteurs would change the face of British perfumery and become a premier institution in the fragrance industry.

Nearly four decades on, their son Chris Hawksley has taken the reigns as director of Les Senteurs boutique, a recently refurbished store just a few hundred yards away from the original shop. “It is a space of pure indulgence for the senses,” Hawksley says, “a place in which to be transported into the evocative world of perfume and enjoy a relaxed browsing experience.”

There is a strong emphasis on discovery here; the brand is open to all those who love scent, whether they are a fragrance connoisseur or a complete novice. Staff members work closely with clientele to find the right fragrance for them no matter how far along they are on their scent 47

journey. “For those that do want to learn, we give them the space and time to explore, discover and appreciate how different combinations of ingredients and scents can stimulate our imagination and how they can make us feel.”

Les Senteurs stocks more than 350 fragrances from all over the globe, “created by the best noses in the business.” Consignments of perfume have arrived in store from France, Russia, Austria, Thailand and Italy, to name just a few. “Once upon a time the Les Senteurs team went out to comb the vineyards of the world for fruit,” Hawksley says. “Now international perfumers often come to us, laden with fragrant treasures.” »

The boutique prides itself on offering a blending of styles, genres and cultures in its products, particularly enjoying the discovery of brands with a strong identity or connection to their birthplace.

For example, Kingdom Scotland’s expression of the experiences, personalities and landscapes of that wildly romantic enthralling land of legends or Mizensir’s use of typical Andalusian natural ingredients. “We may have come to expect fresh citrus scents from the Mediterranean and opulent ouds from the Middle East, but our brands often surprise and delight us with something different,” explains Hawksley.

Working with sophisticated labels such as Tauer Perfumes, Papillon and Marc-Antoine Barrois, the interactive relationship with the perfumer is especially important for Les Senteurs, with the individual’s personality and creativity behind the scent just as important as the fragrance itself.

“Rather than follow trends, we choose to celebrate artistic perfumery and, I think, that really is the key to Les Senteurs’ success,” says Hawksley (pictured opposite). “The brands put their trust in us to ensure that we are aligned with their vision and that they are reaching the right target audience. Our collection is always carefully curated to ensure that each has its own time to shine. Our partnership is a cosmopolitan meeting of minds and emotions.”

Like many other companies, Les Senteurs has also been affected by the Covid-19 pandemic, having had to close its doors due to the national lockdown. Despite this change in operation, they have seen a huge increase in online sales, updating their website to bring the boutique experience to clients at home. In fact, perfume has proved to be the perfect mood booster during these difficult times, raising morale and being a stimulating or comforting force depending on an individual’s needs.

“A soft, gentle perfume such as a mandarin citrus or rose can relax and elevate, while lavender scents are always reassuring, familiar and encouraging,” recommends Hawksley, “Tom Daxon’s Laconia and Moment Perpetual by Les Eaux Primordiales are both wonderfully uplifting.”

Having celebrated its 36th anniversary last year, Les Senteurs is now the UK’s oldest independent specialist perfumery. This was, of course, an immensely proud moment for Hawskley, who sees the brand as more than just a business. “Perfume and the shop were always a part of our family conversations, so Les Senteurs is extremely close to my heart.” With this in mind, Hawksley makes every effort to preserve his parents’ ethos. “The purpose and approach of the store remains the same: To offer the very best of these lesser-known fine fragrances and scented goods, combined with expert advice, education and exceptional service.”

RATHER THAN FOLLOW TRENDS, WE CHOOSE TO CELEBRATE ARTISTIC PERFUMERY - Chris Hawksley

lessenteurs.com

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STYLE

Love Notes Chris Hawksley shares some of Les Senteurs’ favourite scents of the season B683 BY MARC ANTOINE BARROIS If this fragrance were a man, it would materialise as Cary Grant. The huge popularity and success of the original scent inspired Barrois and perfumer Quentin Bisch to create this intense and sensual version of B683. Inspired by the childhood memories that brought the designers together, this enticing fragrance is rich, dark and as smooth as velvet. Top notes of black pepper, chili, nutmeg; musk, cistus, vanilla tincture, and amber in the heart; and ambroxan, patchouli, oud, oak moss and sandalwood in the base notes. £243 for 100ml Extrait de Parfum CACAO PORCELENA BY ATELIER MATERI White cacao beans are a rare ancestral variety of cacao also known as the “Nectar of the Gods”. The beans are removed from the pods, fermented, then sun-dried and roasted. White cacao yields sensuous notes of walnut and milk with hints of tonka bean. After opening on sweet, syrupy top notes, Cacao Porcelana unpacks its bitterness, sustained by powdery and woody notes.

Light tobacco, patchouli and sandalwood scents give Cacao Porcelana a sensual, even fleshy signature. £195 for 100ml Eau de Parfum IRIS MALIKHAN BY MAISON CRIVELLI The noble elegant iris with its delicately scented flowers and pungent roots the famous orris rhizomes - is one of the most ancient as well as most expensive ingredients in perfumery. Iris Malikhan is the vision of blue, mauve, purple and white iris blooming on the edge of an arid desert. Green leaves like swords thrust up against the brilliant cloudless sky. Iris is blended with golden mimosa to conjure an animalic, leathery note intensified and sweetened by vanilla; and by mastic resin “the tears of Chios”. £170 for 100ml Eau de Parfum

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CHOOSE TO CHALLENGE Words: Lysanne Currie

Women are increasingly breaking stereotypes and making a difference on the global stage with their resilience, humanity and extraordinary gifts. Here, we mark International Women’s Day on 8 March by celebrating eight brilliant individuals who exemplify this year’s theme of #ChooseToChallenge, and embody an extraordinary new spirit echoed within our communities

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CULTURE

AMANDA GORMAN | US YOUTH POET LAUREATE In 1993, writer and activist Maya Angelou read one of her poems, On the Pulse of Morning, at the inauguration of President Bill Clinton.

“Give birth again to the dream,” she read. At that point, Angelou was only the second poet in history to read a poem at a US president’s inauguration. Now there is a third.

At President Joe Biden’s inauguration in January, moving in so many ways, a standout moment was America’s Youth Poet Laureate Amanda Gorman – a self-described “skinny black girl descended from slaves and raised by a single mother” – reciting The Hill We Climb.

This isn’t the only thing the 22-year-old has in common with her predecessor. Angelou was temporarily struck mute by trauma in childhood; Gorman used her own speech impediment to her advantage: “If couldn’t use my voice, then I would author my voice on the page, so [poetry] has really been a godsend and a lifeline for me,” she told CBS News.

A talent marked by courage and resilience and a beacon in a gloomy world. In her own spine-tingling words: “There is always light if only we are brave enough to see it; if only we are brave enough to be it.” theamandagorman.com

ELLIE GOLDSTEIN | GUCCI MODEL British model, and the face of a Gucci Beauty campaign, Ellie Goldstein was 15 when she joined her first modelling agency. She has since had a ball, in the kind of life millions dream of.

Nevertheless, Goldstein, now 18 and whose dream is to be on the cover of Vogue, is a little different from most models: she was diagnosed with Down’s syndrome at birth – and hasn’t let it deter her one bit.

“Representation is very important to me,” she says. “Let the world see that anyone can model and act with a disability.” The first person with Down’s syndrome to appear on a Glamour UK cover, she says simply: “Be yourself and don’t worry about what other people think of you.” » zebedeemanagement.co.uk/ellieg

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MARIA TOORPAKAI | SQUASH PLAYER

HANNAH GRACE DELLER | PHOTOGRAPHER & FRONTLINE NURSE

As she details in her memoir, A Different Kind of Daughter, growing up in a Taliban-held tribal region of Pakistan, where women don’t have a right to be educated let alone play sports, Maria Toorpakai passed herself off as a boy to play squash. When she was found out, death threats followed.

She fled to Canada and trained with Canadian former world No.1 Jonathon Power, before joining the professional circuit. She’s now 105th in world standings and the topranked player in Pakistan – even though she’s banned from playing there.

Now 30, she hopes one day to teach girls and boys there how to play. “I want to tell girls, fear is taught; that you are born free and you are born brave,” she says in new documentary Girl Unbound. “Sport changed my life and I believe it is one of the things that connect us. Even over different continents and different nations.”

As a professional photographer, Hannah Grace Deller was used to seeing life through a lens. After retraining as a nurse – clad in PPE on the Covid frontline – she’s now seeing it as close up as one could bear. But she never stopped taking photos.

Influenced by the likes of Annie Leibovitz and Martin Parr, the 47-year-old’s photos capture “the unsung heroes” of the NHS: “Intensely private moments, anguish in colleagues’ eyes, or exhaustion in their faces”.

She has featured on Grayson Perry’s Art Club and featured in his lockdown exhibition. One of her photos won Martin Parr’s Exercise in Lockdown competition and her work has even inspired Song Club, an album of music compiled

by Chris “Squeeze” Difford.

“I love taking pictures,” the London-born photographer told The Guardian, “but how can you not love being part of saving lives? It feels like the two parts of me have finally merged.” A humane eye, coupled with compassion.

mariatoorpakai.org

hgdart.com

DR ANNE-MARIE IMAFIDON MBE | FOUNDER OF STEMETTES “Perhaps because of our school experiences, none of us frames science or technology as creative or altruistic,” London-born Dr AnneMarie Imafidon told the Evening Standard of the shortfall of women in tech.

But the former child prodigy, now 31, insists that’s exactly what technology is. Founded by Imafidon in 2013, STEMettes helps women under 21 access jobs in science, technology, engineering and mathematics (STEM).

Despite women making up half of the UK workforce, only 14% of those in such careers are female. The initiative aims to scotch the myth that tech is more for boys.

Her Women Tech Charge podcast features chats with women from across the tech industry, such as Louise Broni-Mensah, founder of ticketing website Shoobs, and Michelle Kennedy, founder of a social network for mothers called Peanut. As she told the Standard, “It’s a call to take charge, a call to action.” stemettes.org

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CULTURE

DOLLY PARTON | SINGER, PHILANTHROPIST & BUSINESSWOMAN She’s been called everything from the Iron Butterfly to the Smoky Mountain Songbird and the Backwoods Barbie. To millions of children she’s even known simply as ‘The Book Lady,’ thanks to her Imagination Library, which mails books to kids up to the age of five completely free of charge.

However, as a new biography, She Come

By It Natural, by Sarah Smarsh, details, the septuagenarian has also made the leap from being the butt of punchlines about her

PROFESSOR SARAH GILBERT | BRITISH VACCINOLOGIST As a PhD student, British vaccinologist Professor Sarah Gilbert once considered packing in science – luckily for the world, she gave it another go.

Now, at a time when fewer than 30% of the world’s medical researchers are female, she is an inspiration.

Because of Gilbert and her team at Oxford University, we now have a

looks, to an unimpeachable icon strutting her stuff on a stage “where women of a certain age historically have gone unseen”.

This is the ultra-hard-working protofeminist who disallowed Elvis to record I Will Always Love You after he demanded 50% of the publishing rights.

In November 2020, she donated $1m towards the development of the 95%-effective Moderna vaccine. (Cue instant choruses of “Vaccine, vaccine, vaccine, vacc-iiiiiiiine…” to the tune of her hit Jolene.) What. A. Woman. dollyparton.com

GRETA THUNBERG | ENVIRONMENTAL ACTIVIST Incredibly, Greta Thunberg has just turned 18: in the world’s imagination the pigtailed eco-warrior will always be, as The Times put it, “a 15-year-old prophet of doom telling world leaders they were stealing her future”.

Yet Greta, who calls her Asperger’s syndrome a “superpower”, has always seemed an ancient soul, plugged into something wise and vast.

She was still at school when she began a strike to raise awareness of the climate crisis. Since then she has inspired a movement of millions.

She has spoken at the UN, been a nominee for the Nobel Peace Prize, had run-ins with US President Donald Trump (of course), and was Time’s 2019 person of the year. We can’t wait to see where her incredible journey takes her next.

vaccine that affords as much as 90% protection against Covid-19.

She has been described as the one “person in the room who does not want to be in the limelight”. But if the world is to have any kind of superhero in the wake of the pandemic, this quietly determined, 58-year-old mother of triplets, who says: “You just get on with it”, fits the brief. ndm.ox.ac.uk/team/sarah-gilbert Image: © John Cairns internationalwomensday.com 53

TIME AFTER TIME

London’s vintage watch specialists tells us why timeless timepieces have seen a revival, and give us invaluable insight into the must-have models Words: Chantelle Billson

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WATCHES

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Historic horology: Vintage Patek Philippe (left) and Omega (above right)

new passion for pre-owned and vintage watches has recently emerged among enthusiasts and collectors alike. Not only do collectors relish rare vintage pieces, perfect for handing down as heirlooms, but a pre-owned watch allows you to continue the narrative and lifespan of a timepiece’s exceptional craftsmanship while its built-in character, which only time can design, gets better with age.

“The trend of collecting wristwatches has only happened within the last 20 years. Before this everyone used to collect pocket watches,” says Daniel Somlo (pictured above), executive director of family-run Somlo London. The prestige watch boutique, established in 1977 and located in Burlington Arcade, specialises in the sale and repair of vintage watches made prior to 1970.

“Vintage is so special because [the watch] has lived its own life, it has character, and there won’t be an identical watch anywhere in the world. The number of people who find their grandfather’s Omega rattling around in a drawer after 50 years, and after a few winds it works perfectly. I promise you, if you do that to a watch made today it will not happen.”

Although the date of manufacture will tell you whether a watch is vintage, for collectors looking for an investment piece, there are a few expert tips that will give you a much better chance of unearthing a treasure that will gain value with age.

“You can get a watch that was made 60 years ago and got sent in for a service 30 years after it was purchased, and the watchmakers thought the dial looked oxidised so changed it for a new version,” says Somlo. “That’s all great at the

time, but that watch will be worth a fraction of what the original dial would have been. In fact, perhaps surprisingly, watches with a ‘tropical dial’ defect [sunlight discolouration of a black dial], commonly seen in Rolex and Omega watches, are more valuable than those without.”

Jonathan Griffiths, manager and head watchmaker at Farringdon’s Antique Watch Co, agrees. “Ideally, what you’re looking for is a piece that has undergone as little restoration as possible. Originals will be collectable and will hold value better,” he says. “But vintage watch dials and faces are fragile and can break down upon touch, so cleaning them isn’t always an option. The dial is the first thing that greets you, so extensive care and attention must be paid to preserve it.”

UNIQUE HISTORY Although investing in vintage horology can be a risky business, there are some iconic timepieces that never go out of style. Somlo recommends the Omega Speedmaster 1967 as “one of the most iconic and collectible chronographs ever made”. The first Speedmaster debuted in 1957, and an exclusive NASA-approved version was worn by astronaut Buzz Aldrin during the first moon landing in 1969.

Collectors who appreciate timeless design must own a Cartier Tank. First made in 1919, the production of the original Tank was a limited edition of just six – making the originals highly sought after. “I don’t think there’s another example of a watch that was produced in such small numbers, for a minuscule niche clientele, which is now a worldwide phenomenon and one 55

of the most recognised watches globally,” he says.

Somlo also recommends the Patek Phillippe Calatrava 1932, which today remains the essence of a prestigious dress watch, and the Rolex Submariner. “Original Submariners from the 50s are the most collectable and can cost over £100,000. If you’re looking for a more wearable version, opt for the 60s or 70s Submariners,” he says.

Somlo and Griffith agree that the resurgence of interest in vintage watches is down to their rarity and reliability, but also the evolution of style and how we shop. Griffiths says: “The main trend I have observed is the influence that social media has had on the watch industry. It’s shaping the trends and the way in which people are choosing to find and buy timepieces.”

“Fifteen years ago, watch design was very different, says Somlo. “Watches were bigger and glitzier. A lot of modern watch design has veered toward vintage styles, with designs getting more refined and demure. David Beckham used to wear the big Jacob & Co iced-out watches, and now he wears minimalistic vintage.”

While the craftsmanship and unique history held in each vintage timepiece is an allure of its own, so too is the potential for return on investment. How can collectors balance these considerations? For Somlo, the answer is simple.

“The best advice we give to people is to buy something that you love. The worst thing that can happen is that it goes down in value, but you will have something you will always adore, cherish and enjoy.” somlo.com; antiquewatchcoltd.com

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ICE BREAKERS Expedition yachts have become the ultimate accessory for the new age explorer elite.

We discover the scientific, conservation and travel benefits to these mega yachts Words: Rory FH Smith

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hen Ferdinand Magellan set sail from Spain on the first expedition to circumnavigate the world on 20 September 1519, he did so in bleak surroundings. His fleet consisted of five vessels, carrying supplies for two years of travel and roughly 270 crewmembers. On his journey, Magellan encountered storms, murderous mutinies and a crew that hated him from the outset.

In fact, the expedition got so rough, Magellan was killed by a poison arrow during a battle with natives in the Philippines. After his death, his last remaining ship continued and eventually returned to Spain in 1522.

After three years, 60,000 miles and the death of 80% of those involved, Magellan’s expedition had proved the globe could be circumnavigated. All things considered, Magellan’s voyage was bold, brutal and bonkers but, ultimately, it was successful in what it set out to achieve.

Despite his death, the Portuguese-Spanish explorer had opened the door to European colonisation – but also set a precedent for extreme global exploration that would inspire countless adventurers for the next five centuries.

Now, more than 500 years on from that fateful expedition, it seems the appetite for exploration is just as strong, albeit in slightly more comfortable surroundings. Despite global lockdowns rendering the idea of accessing far-flung corners of the world almost impossible, for a handful of the world’s most affluent, the pandemic has provided the perfect opportunity to kickstart their personal exploration ambitions.

According to a study by Boat International, the number of privately commissioned yachts measuring in at over 100m has continuously risen since 2018.

Last year, 23 orders were placed for similar vessels, up from 21 in 2019 and 18 in 2018. With many capable of undertaking expeditions to the most inhospitable corners of the planet, industry experts believe the rise in demand for explorer yachts is down to a combination of factors, ranging from technological developments and the desire to experience something different to the renewed interest in science and sustainability. »

M/Y Planet Nine 75 by Admiral 57

FREEDOM TO EXPLORE “Yachting is always evolving,” says Ivan Salas Jefferson, a naval architect who founded design, architecture and project management firm Iddes Yachts. “Traditionally, sailing in the Mediterranean and Caribbean was evolving alongside rapidly accelerating technological progress,” he told superyachts.com.

The combination has led to more travel to increasingly remote destinations for pleasure but also for other reasons. “Superyachts can also be the base to embark on deep ocean or diving expeditions, or become a portable heliport to reach even more remote areas, or support scientific programs, promote innovation and the integration of technologies,” he adds. From deep ocean exploration to an ice breaker and a floating laboratory, if recent years have revealed anything in the marine industry, it’s that yachts are capable of far more than just dipping in and out of Mediterranean ports.

“Interest in expedition or explorer yachts is definitely on the rise. The people buying these boats are serious adventurers who want to sail to far flung locations and remote destinations like the Antarctic that most people generally don’t go to,” says Heesen Yachts CMO Mark Cavendish.

“We added an explorer model to Heesen’s range a couple of years ago, with a helicopter facility and lots of added toys, and they have enormous interior volume. Our 57m explorer boat, XVenture

by Winch Design, is 1,300 gross tonnes – for comparison, our 70m Galactica Supernova is less at 1,200 gross tonnes. Explorers tend to fall into two categories. You have the ‘rough around the edges’ models, which are more of a fishing boat conversion type of explorer, built by a commercial shipyard with an unpainted hull. Heesen doesn’t do that, our version is a luxury yacht with the capabilities of a traditional explorer boat” Explorer yachts must be highly seaworthy and safe in the roughest of seas, certified to sail in polar waters, have a fuel tank big enough to sail 5,000 nautical miles at 10 knots, and the ability to carry its occupants in the luxury expected of a superyacht for at least 40 days at sea. Often larger than their pleasure boat contemporaries, the main differentiation is the focus on functionality, self-sufficiency and purpose.

“Explorer yachts give you the freedom to sail anywhere,” says Jim Evans, founder and MD of SuperYachtsMonaco. “Remote corners of the world – such as Alaska, the Arctic and the Amazon – are all becoming more popular yachting destinations and, as post-Covid yachting becomes less shore-centric, we predict this will continue. [Explorer yachts] are highly technical machines with long cruising ranges and built for smooth sailing under any conditions – no matter how far the destination, rough the waters or icy the sea. From the outside, they are more rugged

and powerful than a classic superyacht, but inside they are every bit as elegant and luxurious, with all the latest tenders and toys – meaning owners or guests can experience ‘the extremes’ in maximum comfort.”

Much of that functionality and selfsufficiency has been facilitated by technological advancements in recent years, which have changed all forms of transportation beyond recognition. On the road, we have semiautonomous vehicles. In the skies, we have aircraft small enough to fold up into your pocket and, on the seas, we have vessels with more capabilities and kit than some military craft.

Take, for example, the 126m explorer yacht Octopus, which took the title as the world’s largest explorer yacht when it was purpose-built for Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen in 2003.

With space for two helicopters (not to mention a dedicated hangar for both), a large SUV, a dive centre with a hyperbaric chamber, seven tenders, an onboard dry dock and a 10-seat submersible that can dive for up to eight hours, “Octopus is clearly the benchmark in terms of toys, facilities, capability,” says Burgess Yachts broker Ian Sherwood. “She was built with a clear, adventurous design brief by the owner and she was created without compromise.” »

Ocean adventure: Rossinavi’s 50m LEL (top left) and the Class 55 by Iddes Yachts

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EXPLORER YACHTS GIVE YOU THE FREEDOM TO SAIL ANYWHERE... NO MATTER HOW FAR THE DESTINATION, ROUGH THE WATERS OR ICY THE SEA – Jim Evans, SuperYachtsMonaco

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YACHTS BIGGER AND BOLDER Taking the title of not only the world’s largest yacht but also the world’s largest research vessel is REV Ocean, which measures in just short of 183m. Currently being finished and primed for her owner, Norwegian billionaire businessman Kjell Inge Røkke, REV Ocean is due to set sail for her maiden voyage in 2022.

The vessel has three swimming pools, multiple common areas, several dining rooms and observation platforms, a 35-seat auditorium, classrooms, an onboard medical facility and room for 60 scientists and 30 crew or 36 guests and 54 crew, depending on its purpose. With a range of 21,120 nautical miles, REV Ocean is capable of circumnavigating 98% of the planet in one luxurious swoop, which makes Magellan’s illfated 1519 expedition all the more galling.

Commissioned to tackle problems such as overfishing, climate change and plastic pollution, the ship is built to remedy some of the issues that made Røkke the billionaire he is today. “The desire [is] to use my resources for a good cause I believe in, and be part of the solution,” says the businessman, who made his fortune through fishing and offshore oil drilling.

With good intentions behind the gigayacht, time will tell if such a machine can be a force for a change. Regardless, Røkke is one of only a handful of affluent yacht enthusiasts who commission ice-proof floating palaces to improve the state of the planet. Most modern-day minted explorers do so purely out of a desire to experience something beyond the reach of their peers. “We find that owners are more interested in the unique and enriching experiences that their yachts allow them to achieve,” said yacht expedition organiser Ben Lyons from EYOS Expeditions. “Luxury for these owners is defined differently – it isn’t by what restaurant you can get into at Monaco, but rather what you can do in the locations that no one else can get to.”

While expeditions have changed beyond recognition since the gritty yet pioneering days of Magellan’s ill-fated mission, the appetite to discover unchartered territory remains unchanged, albeit seemingly reserved for only the world’s wealthiest. With Oxfam reporting that the combined wealth of the 10 richest men has risen by more than $500bn since the global pandemic began, 2021 looks set to be another bumper year for both the yacht industry and the new-age explorer elite.

Seas of change: State-of-the-art research and expedition vessel REV Ocean 61

Making an

IMPACT From social responsibility to ESG investment, we explore the financial revolution that’s

strengthening business and society

Words: Lysanne Currie

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t the end of January, BlackRock’s Larry Fink delivered his annual letter to the world’s CEOs and investors. In it, he issued a stark reminder that we ignore our fragility as a species at our peril. The way companies responded to the climate change threat would be a “defining factor” in their longterm prospects.

Fink, who began writing his annual letters in the wake of the 2007 financial crisis, noted that the Covid-19 pandemic has been a powerful catalyst, enveloping the entire globe and transforming the way we live – as well as setting the ground for a vision of the future.

Social justice and demographic challenges were also addressed in the letter, from the growing retirement crisis to systemic inequalities and recent political turmoil in the US, reminding the world how vulnerable and precious the democratic system can be, and underlining the interdependence between environmental and social issues.

For many industry observers, Fink’s

influential letter marks a tipping point in impact investing, a type of investment that involves putting environmental, social and governance (ESG) on equal footing with financial return – raising its profile from one of niche strategy to business imperative.

Fink, who is CEO of the world’s largest asset manager, with $8.67 trillion in assets, has galvanised far-reaching change in previous letters. In 2018 he called on businesses to clarify their purpose and contribution to society, prompting the Business Roundtable – a lobbying group of 180 of America’s most powerful CEOs – to declare that ‘corporations have a responsibility to society’, rather than merely the transaction of stockholder returns.

And as companies, investors and governments begin to truly double down on the goal of net zero emissions by 2050, the threshold necessary to keep global warming below 2˚C, it will accelerate an economic transformation, according to Fink. The appetite for a reset is there, he insists, and will only grow. »

WEALTH

WINDS OF CHANGE In his new book, Impact: Reshaping Capitalism to Drive Real Change, businessman Sir Ronald Cohen also talks of resetting the economic model. “The Covid-19 crisis is a wake-up call to the world,” he says. “It will force us to change our ways and to scale the resources we use to reduce inequality and protect our planet.” Simply, we have to seize the opportunity to build back better.

“The idea that we can fix economic and societal inequality by just tinkering within the system is not sufficient because the system is creating unfair outcomes… It has to evolve in the direction of bringing impact alongside profit. The alternative is that we succumb to populism and the devastating effect that profit only capitalism will have on the environment and society.”

However, as spring approaches, so do the green shoots. “In March, with the pandemic taking hold, the conventional wisdom was the crisis would divert attention from climate,” says Fink. “But just the opposite took place, and the real location of capital accelerated even faster than I anticipated.

“From January through November 2020, investors in mutual funds and ETFs invested $288bn (£211bn) globally in sustainable assets, a 96% increase over the whole of 2019 […] We know that climate risk is investment risk. But we also believe the climate transition presents an historic investment opportunity.”

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PROFIT AND PURPOSE This huge transformation is not only being driven by a change of minds in the old school, but by the growth of the millennial generation (born between 1981 and 1996). In the wake of the climate crisis, Black Lives Matter movement and Covid-19, people are demanding change.

According to a Fidelity Charitable study, 77% of wealthy millennials and 72% of generation X donors (born 1965 to 1980) have funnelled funds into impact investments – those that aid the environment, technology, diversity and affordable housing – while also generating a return. By contrast, among older generations, impact investments make up just 30% of their portfolios.

Younger investors are twice as likely to invest in a stock or fund if social responsibility is part of the value-creation thesis. Impact investing is also an area the UN General Assembly is currently looking at, as it wants to top up its sustainable investment goals via the private sector.

David Durlacher, CEO of Julius Baer International explains: “The impact investing market has experienced tremendous growth, and stood at over $715bn in 2020 – an annual growth of 17% over the past four years [Global Impact Investing Network]. This has, in part, been due to the rise of the millennial investor and the transfer of wealth across generations.

“Our recent research shows that 88% of millennials agree investments should generate social and environmental benefits alongside financial gains, compared with 57% of baby boomers. So, as wealth passes from one generation to the next in coming years, it is likely that even more wealth will be targeted towards impact investing. But we’re also seeing a growth in impact investing by older generations, and expect it to become more and more mainstream in the coming years.”

“There are stark differences in how HNW millennials view what their wealth is for,” says Oliver Gregson, head of UK & Ireland for JP Morgan Private Bank – now the world’s largest Green Bank. “Our view is that they want to be much more intentional with their wealth: wealth for wealth’s sake is ostentatious. They’re asking instead, how can I make a difference, how can I make an impact?”

In 2017, JP Morgan committed £200bn to clean and renewable energy financing, taking additional steps in 2020 to address climate change and further promote sustainable development through its adoption of a Paris-aligned financing commitment, Center for Carbon Transition and operational carbon neutrality. They also joined the Climate Leadership Council, which calls for a revenue neutral carbon tax and dividend framework. “I think a carbon tax framework is something that is absolutely on the agenda,” says Gregson.

And for those embarking on their impact investing journey, Durlacher offers this advice.

“At Julius Baer, we start with the question: ‘what matters to you?’ Finding investments that align with your own personal values and also contribute positively to a cause you believe in is a good place to start. We want to empower clients to take an active role and make educated choices that lead to a positive impact.”

WEALTH FOR WEALTH’S SAKE IS OSTENTATIOUS. HNWS ARE ASKING INSTEAD, HOW CAN I MAKE A DIFFERENCE, HOW CAN I MAKE AN IMPACT? – Oliver Gregson, JP Morgan Private Bank

FUTURE PERFECT If there were doubts about impact investing in the past, from investors who wanted to do good, but were worried they would have to give up some financial return, this is no longer the case, according to Gregson. “That is a fallacy that has been proven incorrect,” he says. “Reports show that it’s a better way of generating risk adjusted returns. We saw themes like clean energy and electric vehicles perform extraordinarily well.

North of 90% of all sustainable investments outperformed their benchmark in 2020. We have a very strong view that this is actually what good looks like, going forward.”

Fink’s clarion call too, is offset by optimism, acknowledging an accelerated potential for change and growth, borne from a world woken by a world health emergency and the biggest economic contraction since the Great Depression. Speaking on the Today programme on Radio 4, he said: “We are now measuring companies through a sustainability lens and determining how fast they are moving toward net carbon zero… and through that we are able to see that some companies are moving very rapidly, some companies are in denial and that’s starting to show up now in how a company’s stocks are performing.”

Gregson makes the point that 126 governments around the world are committed to net zero by 2050, along with over a third of the Fortune 500, while 2020 was a record year for impact investing. “This is the new normal,” he asserts. “I would hazard a guess that in 10 years’ time we won’t even call it this, it’ll simply be the way that things are done.”

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Making a difference: HNWs are investing in clean energy (such as solar and wind power, left) to technology such as Tesla (above); businessman and author Sir Ronald Cohen (below)

FIGHTING TALK How the success of British MMA has inspired us to discover the physical power and mental discipline of martial arts Words: Ross Forbes

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ver the last decade, Britain’s mixed martial arts (MMA) scene has enjoyed a golden period on the world stage. Thanks to its high-level intensity and global appeal – enabled by the dominance of the international UFC (Ultimate Fighting Championship) as the title to win – MMA is the fastest growing sport in the world, with devoted fans driving the popularity up to the levels usually only seen in boxing.

As the name suggests, mixed martial arts is a competitive combat sport where fighters seamlessly combine a variety of hand-to-hand styles – from Brazilian jiu jitsu and Thai boxing to krav maga and wrestling. With well-known

fighters such as Anderson Silva, Gina Carano, Ronda Rousey and British champ Michael ‘The Count’ Bisping all taking their mastery of such forms into the ring, the popularity of MMA has also inspired a rise in classes and independent training in the capital, as novices discover the physical and restorative benefits of martial arts in London’s finest studios and dojos.

Martial arts in general boasts numerous health benefits. Not just a great physical workout – combining exhaustive cardio, toning and increasing athleticism and flexibility – many forms of combat and self-defence training provide students with greater confidence, focus and mental discipline. » 66

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LOOK TO THE EAST While every country has its own historical style of hand-to-hand combat, many consider East Asia to be the spiritual home of martial arts, with prominent styles such as judo, karate, kung fu and taekwondo all originating from the region.

Western interest in Asian martial arts can be traced to the late 19th century, when demonstrations were viewed by western visitors as entertainment or even a form of dance. British railway engineer Edward William BartonWright studied jiu jitsu – a Japanese close combat technique – while working in Japan in the 1890s, and, on his return to Europe, is the first person known to have taught this style. In 1899 he created bartitsu, which combines jiu jitsu, judo, boxing, savate and stick fighting – and which was immortalised by writer Sir Arthur Conan Doyle as the fighting form of choice for his character Sherlock Holmes.

During the Second World War, Shanghaibased expert William E Fairbairn was recruited by the Special Operations Executive to teach jiu jitsu to UK, US and Canadian Special Forces. By the 1970s, Japanese arts including karate and judo had become extremely popular, particularly in the US, while movie star and fighting legend Bruce Lee almost single-handedly popularised the Chinese art of kung fu – particularly wing chun and his own style, jeet kune do (“the way of the intercepting fist”).

In London’s Chelsea, Europe’s oldest and most prestigious martial arts centre, the Budokwai, has been teaching children and adults judo since 1918, and now includes lessons in shotokan karate, aikido and gracie jiu-jutsu in its operation. Founded by Japanese immigrant Gunji Koizumi, the club was originally located in Lower Grosvenor Place – along the back wall of Buckingham Palace – and soon played a leading role in establishing the European Judo Union and International Judo Federation. Its philosophy has three main elements: “In pursuance of judo, be earnest, sincere and open-minded for mutual assistance. To treasure chivalry, despise cowardice and esteem straight living. To never boast of, or misuse, one’s skill in judo or other arts.”

Budokwai member Charles Palmer successfully campaigned for the inclusion of judo in the Olympic Games – just in time for the Munich 1972 games in which Team GB won three medals.

Many of today’s martial arts classes focus on the health and exercise benefits that come with learning self-defence and combat techniques.

Arts such as karate, jiu jitsu and taekwondo combine cardio and toning exercises seamlessly, working the whole body to help improve one’s balance, strength, stamina and flexibility – but also one’s confidence and self-esteem.

MIND OVER MATTER A key element of martial arts teaching is the importance placed on mental resilience and discipline – indeed, the ultimate aim of many martial arts is to prevent the need for violence.

Dr Mark Phillips, who founded the London Wing Chun Academy in 2003, is a professional martial artist, self-defence instructor and security consultant. Much of his teaching incorporates real-world scenarios, such as situational awareness, managing emerging threats and facing fear or intimidation, but he also believes that the mental resilience one learns through training is the most important combat skill.

“What you gain mentally from training is maybe more important than what you gain physically,” he says. “Mental resilience is the most important thing you can learn, whether you’re facing physical violence in the real world, training for a competition or going through something like the Covid-19 pandemic, where we’re living in isolation.

“Martial arts training doesn’t just teach you how to face physical and mental adversity, it demonstrates that you will face it and then teaches you how to work through it. It teaches you to have belief and confidence in yourself: because it doesn’t matter how hard you can punch. If you don’t believe you will be able to defend yourself, you won’t defend yourself.”

Continuing this resilience training through national lockdowns, The London Wing Chun Academy has been offering virtual classes in disciplines including wing chun, MMA and Brazilian jiu jitsu to new and existing students.

Other martial arts, such as the slow, fluid forms of tai chi, are championed in a similar way to yoga practices for their calming and spiritual connections.

One thing that all these martial arts forms seem to combine is an adherence to and emphasis on a code of inner strength to match the practitioner’s outer skills. From the rigid hierarchal teaching structure of master or teacher and student (and the big brother/little brother dynamic between students of varying skills themselves), to the strict emphasis on the moral code that is key to mastering techniques themselves, it is clear that martial arts is not merely about the body. And with stressmanagement and increased concentration, willpower and energy all core benefits of these physical sports, martial arts training might just be the best defence for body and mind. budokwai.co.uk; londonwingchun.co.uk

Best defence: (clockwise from top left) UFC fighters Valentina Shevchenko and Jessica Eye in the ring; MMA boxers square up; kick boxing training; kung fu technique with a wing chun training dummy

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SPORT

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LOST AT SEA If an ultra-exclusive, secluded holiday seems like a faroff dream, never fear: an idyllic island paradise may be closer than you think. Tempus explores the best private island getaways for your next sunshine escape Words: Gabriel Power

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ndless stretches of white sand. Palm trees swaying in the tropical breeze.

Cotton hammocks casting freckled shadows on the surface of an infinity pool.

And an entire island to yourself.If it seems like something you’d be more likely to see on a social media post playing fast and loose with reality, think again.

With Covid-19 restrictions still likely to remain in play through 2021, renting a perfect island paradise to yourself –and for your friends and family – is the ideal way to discover new destinations and truly unwind in extraordinary style. Here, Tempus takes a look at the best luxury islands for your dream getaway.

ORPHEUS ISLAND, AUSTRALIA Perched halfway between the Queensland coast and the Great Barrier reef, Orpheus Island has made a name for itself as an exclusive hideaway for the rich and famous. The island, which consists of a large national park punctuated by a series of 14 boutique bungalows, has served as the destination of choice for celebrities from Thor actor Chris Hemsworth to Sir Elton John, and for good reason; this resort is infinity pools, ultra-chic interior design and lush wildlife as far as the eye can see. If hired for private use, the island comfortably sleeps 28 guests who will be treated to gourmet meals, drinks and curated activities including snorkelling and fishing, plus treatments in the Gwandalan Spa – bliss. » orpheus.com.au 71

TAGOMAGO, SPAIN The vast majority of the Mediterranean’s privately owned islands are off limits to outsiders; setting foot on them remains an unattainable feat. But the owners of Tagomago, situated just one mile from the eastern coast of the party island Ibiza, have bucked this trend by making their entire island available for hire. Tagomago’s landscape is defined by dry, rugged scrubland, the centre of which is dominated by a stylish luxury villa complete with five double suites and an outdoor pool. As the sun dips below the horizon, guests can head to the resort’s multiple terraces for stunning views of Ibiza rising from the waves of the Balearic Sea; its angular peaks fading into the early evening haze. tagomago-island.com

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TRAVEL

NECKER ISLAND, THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS The Caribbean is inextricably linked with private island ownership, and what feature on private islands for hire would be complete without a mention of Sir Richard Branson’s famous Necker Island home? This 70-acre stretch of land in the far east of the British Virgin Islands archipelago was purchased by the Virgin Group founder in 1978 at an extraordinary 97% discount. Now, travellers can opt to rent the entire island, which sleeps 40 guests in 20 bedrooms in the Great House and the island’s nine Balinese-style private villas: Leha Lo, Bali Hi, Bali Beach, Bali Cliff, Bali Lo, Bali Buah, Bali Kukila, Temple Master and Temple Sunrise.

Guests also have access to a dedicated team of staff, two freshwater infinity pools, a beachside hot tub, two floodlit tennis courts, watersport equipment and, of course, everything you need for a truly legendary beach party. » virginlimitededition.com

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THE NAUTILUS, MALDIVES In a country known for its wealth of private island resorts, it takes something special to stand out from the pack – and The Nautilus is a cut above. Guests can purchase exclusive use of the entire island, located in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of Baa Atoll, which includes fully staffed accommodation, indulgent breakfasts and a number of additional benefits. The true ace up The Nautilus’s sleeve, however, is its transfer scheme. The resort has partnered with private jet firm Dominvs Aviation to provide what is essentially an entirely bespoke journey to the island. A jet will depart at the guests’ convenience from a secure private terminal at what the firm rather discreetly refers to as “one of London’s business airports” and will bypass the Maldives’ main Velana International Airport, instead landing directly on the Noonu Atoll from where a private yacht will whisk guests to their secluded island getaway. thenautilusmaldives.com

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TRAVEL CALIVIGNY ISLAND, GRENADA If renting a private island is a means to escape the crowd, Grenada is taking this mantra a step further. As one of the Caribbean’s less touristic nations, Grenada is sorely overlooked by many European holidaymakers, remaining under the radar for decades despite its abundance of superb gastronomy, cultural prowess and historical significance. Calivigny Island, consisting of 80 acres of dense jungle and pristine white sand beaches, sits just off the southern tip of the country’s mainland, and while many may be drawn to the outdoor pools, swim-up bar, fitness centre and football field, the real centrepiece is the astonishing 4,000sq ft master suite. This remarkable feat of interior design is embellished with beautiful French cherrywood, while its jacuzzi room features marble floors and handcrafted sculptures for a touch of old-world European extravagance. calivigny-island.com

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Worth a shot Often unfairly dismissed as a cheap party beverage, this fascinating and varied spirit deserves a permanent spot in your drinks cabinet. We dip into the world of tequila Words: Gabriel Power

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INDULGE

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t’s 11:17pm. You’re several rounds down at your favourite city bar or members’ club.

Someone calls out the dreaded rallying cry – “shots!” – as the night looks set to either kick up a gear or descend into chaos. Squinting past the mixologist behind the bar, you shudder at a bottle of clear liquid shimmering under the lights that, before you know it, is being poured into shot glasses as your acquaintances pass round the salt. You neck the shot with a grimace before biting into a wedge of old lime that brings yet more tears to your eyes.

This is the baffling experience that comes to mind for many non-Latin Americans when presented with the prospect of drinking tequila, the iconic Mexican spirit harvested from the blue agave cactus plant. Contrary to its undeserved reputation, tequila is not simply a cheap way to cap off a party.

Much like whisky or brandy, the tequila family is a monumental one, encompassing a multitude of styles, profiles and preparation processes, each with its own unique character and suited to very different serving methods. The fine complexities of this spirit are becoming ever more appreciated by connoisseurs, which big-name brands getting in on the action – luxury drinks brand Diageo boasts Don Julio and DeLeón within its tequila portfolio as well as George Clooney’s Casamigos brand, which it acquired in a US1bn deal in 2017.

Like champagne, only agave spirits made in one of five regions of Mexico – the first and best-known being city of Tequila in Jalisco state – can be called tequila (the appellation of origin has been strictly protected by Mexican law since 1974). In the simplest terms the spirit can be split into five categories, differentiated by how long they are aged in barrels after production.

SPIRIT OF MEXICO That misfortunate shot of tequila so maligned from murky nights out will almost certainly have been a tequila blanco. Most often manifesting as a crystal clear, transparent liquid, blanco is

effectively un-aged – or kept in steel tanks for a week or two – before being bottled.

As there is no influence on the flavour profile from being aged in barrels, blancos are considered the truest demonstration of the skill of the distiller, with the raw flavour of the agave coming to the fore. A quality blanco, such as Satryna Blanco

MUCH LIKE WHISKY OR BRANDY, THE TEQUILA FAMILY IS A MONUMENTAL

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(pictured below) is the ideal tequila for those who like their margaritas big and bold; its earthy, peppery profile offers a punch to counteract the sweetness of the Triple Sec or, in case of a Tommy’s margarita, the agave nectar.

Adding a small amount of barrel-aged tequila to a blanco transforms it into a tequila joven – a category of tequila that is considerably harder to track down outside of Mexico and its betterquality variants are widely known as a sipping spirit. Joven, meaning young, can also be known as tequila oro (gold) and created by adding colouring or flavouring to blanco.

Hopping up a step is the tequila reposado, aged in oak barrels for 60 to 364 days. The barrels are usually imported from the US, Canada or France, and lend the tequila a smoother profile with hints of vanilla and oak. Although some purists may warn against doing so, a reposado can be added to a margarita for a more unconventional take on the drink, as its thicker, woodier flavour nudges the classic cocktail in a more indulgent direction.

However, should you opt for a reposado margarita,

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the addition of a teaspoon of jalapeño juice or a couple of raw slices of the pepper itself adds a sumptuous zing to this full-on variant of the drink.

AGED TO PERFECTION Until recent years, The UK market has been mostly unfamiliar with the joys of the final types of tequila – añejo and extra añejo – which boast loftier price tags, relative rarity and, ultimately, an incompatibility with the British perception of tequila as a shot rather than sipping drink.

As any expert will tell you, these super-premium tequilas are best enjoyed neat; to chuck this decadent spirit in a cocktail or knock a measure of it down in one gulp would be nothing short of sacrilege. Instead, sip it straight or with a single cube of ice from a copita (tulip) glass. A whisky or brandy glass will also do at a pinch.

Aged in oak barrels for one to three years, añejo is identifiable by its gorgeous deep amber colour.

The complexity of an añejo is its greatest draw, with each producer calibrating their high-end tequilas with signature flavour profiles varying in sweetness and fruitiness, marked by rich notes of toffee and some containing hints of chocolate or even orange.

Those looking for a true collector’s item must track down a bottle of extra añejo, tequila aged for more than three years. These take the añejo flavour profile to the extreme, with a flavour so heavily tinged by sweet caramel that the drink could serve as a showstopping digestivo. Even rarer variants of the extra añejo are occasionally flavoured in rum, sherry or bourbon casks.

As the first distilled drink known to have been produced in the Americas, tequila is steeped in history. It has served as an intangible pillar of Mexican and Mesoamerican culture for almost five hundred years, its iconic agave zing thriving through wars, natural disasters and the colonial era. Simply put, tequila deserves better than the treatment it is subjected to outside of Mexico; it is a fascinating, complex spirit that is more than worthy of your copita, your taste buds and your time.

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THE FUTURE IS SERVED Six years in the making, the launch of the Moley Robotic Kitchen is taking the culinary arts to into the space age. Founder Mark Oleynik dishes up the remarkable process behind the world’s most advanced mechanical chef Words: Michelle Johnson Human motion: Moley Robot Kitchen was launched at GITEX (© Black Edge Productions)

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echanical hands hover over the refined preparation station, whipping up a gourmet-style pasta dish. Perfect al dente spaghetti bubbles away on the stove while the dexterous limbs whisk a home-made sauce with expert precision.

Watching the Moley Robotic Kitchen in action makes way for truly uncanny valley territory; like a 1950s vision of the future, where domestics chores are carried out by robot helpers. Except this high-tech chef already has 5,000 recipes in its database: the future is now.

British company Moley Robotics launched its innovative invention at the Gulf Information Technology Exhibition (GIMEX), Dubai on 6 December 2020, introducing the result of six years of research and development. 100 engineers and designers, and three award-winning chefs. The magic of the brand’s mechanical ‘chef ’ is in the remarkable anthropomorphic hands – developed in collaboration with world-leading German robotic company Schunk – which are fully articulated and covered in high-tech sensors to emulate human movement. It can use cookware and utensils, operate touchscreen appliances and tidy up kitchen surfaces when it’s finished, as well as learn how to use new pieces of equipment thanks to its adaptive operating system.

Through the kitchen’s user interface, you can access 5,000 recipes, or even record your own to add to the kitchen’s repertoire, including dishes created by award-winning chefs Tim Anderson, Nicole Pisani and Andrew Clarke. Mark Oleynik, computer scientist healthcare innovator and founder of Moley Robotics, explains his vision of man and machine.

THE MOTION OF THE ARMS IS SO HUMAN IT'S AS IF THE CHEF HAS COOKED FOR YOU

Mark, please tell us more about the Moley Robotic Kitchen?

When we talk about automated cooking machines, we’re usually talking about something designed to make one specific product, based on repeating a sequence of operation with pre-measured timing and tools, and a pre-programmed process. Moley Robotics transformed this idea to create a machine with true flexibility. In general terms, Moley Robotic Kitchen reproduces the human process. Our user interface, with its recipe sharing platform, allows people to build their own recipes; the platform helps to translate these recipes to the robotics’ script language, so that the robot can execute any recipe. Even the first 30 recipes design for our launch showed a large range of different food options. One of my favourites is tom yum soup, as well the classic pasta dishes – carbonara, spaghetti bolognese and pomodoro.

The robotic arms are fully articulated to recreate human movements. How important was it to get this right?

From the very beginning, we know that was the only way this would work. Objectively, you can reduce a dish down to its ingredients and a sequence of operations, but there’s no way a machine can emulate the passion and creativity of a dish like a human chef can. Food is such a subjective experience, so we wanted the robot to imitate human movement, and capture some of the human process to recreate how a chef cooks their dish in a very accurate and reliable way. That’s why the motion of the arms has to be so human: it can more or less recreate the chef ’s original intention. It’s as if the chef has cooked for you.

What first inspired the concept?

Some people hunger for innovation, while others are looking for more pragmatic solutions. When you think about everything that has changed technologically over the last 50 years, the thing that remains the same is people. Everything that changes in our lives is designed to give us more options or optimise our time. We see this 80

kitchen as something that helps to optimise our time at home, for example, by taking the 30 minutes to an hour that you might spend in the kitchen and sharing that time, instead, with your family. That was a major inspiration for us. Once we had the idea, our first step was building a prototype to prove whether it might be possible to build. Often for products, this stage is where the project ends, so you need to take a risk to make a product that really works. It’s been a long process of designing, testing, evaluating and improving. We found great partners and a team that could bring it to life.

How do you plan to develop the product?

We’ve developed two types of product – Moley Robotic Kitchen is for residential use and can support people in their everyday life. But we’ve also seen big demand from the commercial market and are developing a commercial product fit for restaurants, hotels, hospitals, care homes and other environments where an organised and volumized process of cooking is required. For example, it’s difficult to hire a great chef in a hospital, because creative and talented chefs would rather be in an environment – like a fine dining restaurant – where they can be more creative.

You launched the kitchen at GITEX in December. What’s next?

We began taking pre-orders when we launched the domestic kitchen and will be delivering the first products during 2021. We will work with each client to create a bespoke kitchen that fits their space and design preferences, and then it takes about three to six months to delivery. For any company, once you’ve built the first product, you’re looking to see what the next product could be, both for functionality but also price points. You want to develop the product line to offer plenty of choice. Our biggest challenge was building the original product, and I’m looking forward to creating more options, simplifying and optimising the kitchen. moley.com

TECHNOLOGY

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A SOFTER TOUCH Eager to embrace the maximalism trend without risking kitsch? The key is in the fabric. Our interiors expert highlights the three key trends bringing bold colours, plush comfort and sustainable style into any home

Words: Lauren O’Neill

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ur home has long been the place we turn to for comfort – it is where the heart is, after all – and it is fair to say that it has never played a more vital role than it has in the past year. The amount of time spent within the confines of our own four walls is at a record high and the place that was once a supporting act in our lives has become the central character.

The home is no longer just somewhere where we retreat at the end of a long day or hastily drink coffee and glance at the news ahead of the morning commute. It has now assumed the role of workplace, gym, and in some cases school, as well as providing the backdrop for our (virtual) social calendar.

It comes as no surprise then that lockdown has shone a spotlight on interior design, with people seeking quick, contact-free, ways to add glamour, colour and, most importantly, comfort to their environment.

Enter fabric. When it comes to injecting warmth, colour and depth into your interiors, introducing fabrics into the mix is simple yet effective. Tactile and inviting, layers of texture inspire relaxation as well as offering something interesting and dimensional to look at. »

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CUTTING A RUG Nothing feels more luxurious than treading barefoot on plush carpet but, if you don’t want to forgo the chic style and durability of wooden flooring, don’t underestimate the power of a rug to transform your space. From modern brushstroke patterns and jute to traditional woven silk styles, the floor can act as a fifth wall for these luxurious works of art.

And they don’t just look the part. Rugs are fast becoming a hot commodity, with 17thcentury antique Persian and Oriental rugs selling anywhere from £25,000 to £25m – the most expensive rug sold fetched nearly $38m (£27m) at auction in 2013. With that sort of investment, it’s understandable that one might not want the dog to sleep on it. Instead, an intricately, hand-woven rug can be just as eye-catching when hung as a wall tapestry, retaining its value and ready to be passed on from generation to generation.

“Persian rugs are some of the most incredible pieces of art. Every piece made is completely one of a kind, brought to life by talented artisans that create their masterpieces one knot at a time, all by hand,” says Camilla Ahwazian of Lilla Rugs. “These rugs can take anywhere between nine months to five years to weave one single piece. There is definitely a new appreciation for them, as more and more people veer towards sustainability and craft. They ooze so much character and are the perfect way to make a house a home.”

Previous & left: Lilla, lillarugs.com.

Above: Adam Nathaniel Furman x FLOOR_STORY, floorstory.co.uk 84

DESIGN RESTORATION REVIVAL With an increasing interest in sustainable practice throughout all areas of our lives, there is a renewed love of antique or inherited pieces of furniture sweeping the high-end interior world.

Reupholstery is a fantastic way to give these tired pieces a new lease of life while creating a unique item that is personal to you.

From headboards and ottomans to footstools and armchairs, tactile, cocooning pieces are the order of the day. Think plush sofas you can sink right into complete with bouclé throw to wrap around you as the night draws in.

The fabric options are endless and, depending on how bold you are feeling, these items can bring a riot of colour and pattern to the home. If you prefer something a little more low key, work with layering of colour and texture to create interest, focusing on warmer tones and rich, cosseting fabrics such as velvet and silk. For those who like to experiment with clashing colours and designs, 2021 patterns are expressive and full of life – painterly strokes and wild florals, with a trend for embroidered fabrics that will infuse added texture.

DRAMATIC DRAPES Window dressings have been around for centuries, favoured for fashion as well as function, and they have made something of a comeback as we move away from the minimalist Scandi style of the 2010s and a collective preference for pared-back blinds over sweeping curtains.

The trend for a more cosy, maximalist interior style has been growing steadily in recent years, and this changing attitude of ‘more’ over ‘less’ in the home has seen a boom in dramatic styles of drapery.

When it comes to curtains the options are vast, from natural linens and sheer voile to ornate damask or velvet hangings – a commitment-free way to change the face and feel of a room.

Traditionally, curtains were used to stave off draught and block out light, as well as offer privacy from inquisitive neighbours. Now, though, they have more of an aesthetic appeal.

If measured correctly, floor-length curtains can make a ceiling look higher and windows appear bigger. The key is to hang them from the highest point possible, and allow for them to be wider on both sides than the window itself.

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Left: Accessories from Soho Home sohohome.com. right: Headboard and curtains by Penny Morrison, pennymorrison.com

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HAVANA NIGHTS Discover the most indulgent and impressive cigar lounges in London

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f you’re one of the many cigar afficianados who had hoped to be jetting off to Cuba for the prestigious Festival del Habano this year, the disappointment of not being able to discover new – and vintage – sticks to celebrate the start of a new, more positive year is palpable.

Yet, whether you’re looking for a vintage Romeo Y Julieta beloved by Sir Winston Churchill, or fancy celebrating Cohiba’s 55th year with a limited-edition release, look no further than London’s indulgent smoking lounges, which will be awash with exclusive options and expertise no matter one’s taste – often with perfect pairings to match – when they reopen this year.

Indeed, the days of the indulgent after-dinner brandy-and-cigar could have been relegated to the history books when the total ban on smoking in enclosed public spaces came into law in 2007.

But, 13 years on, London’s most opulent hotels have perfected an elegant solution that has taken the tradition of cigar-tasting to an art form. »

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CIGARS AT NO. TEN Boutique Marylebone hotel No. Ten Manchester Street is home to one of London’s finest cigar terraces, specialising in hand-rolled Havana cigars – in fact, it is certified as an official Gold Havana Cigar Specialist. Sample from the extensive range before making your choice of single stick or box, all of which are housed in a bespoke De Art humidor. The discreet, heated space is available all year round, and boasts an internal cigar store and sampling lounge, as well as a perfectly-matched menu of accompanying drinks and bar snacks. tenmanchesterstreethotel.com

EDWARD SAHAKIAN CIGAR SHOP & SAMPLING LOUNGE AT BULGARI HOTEL LONDON Located in Knightsbridge on the edge of Hyde Park, the Bulgari Hotel London opened in 2012 with all the brand’s well-known flair and elegance. Its excellent cigar shop and sampling lounge, created by multi-award-winning cigar merchant Edward Sahakian, specialises in vintage cigars, rare Havanas and more delights sourced from Sahakian’s own private collection amassed over the past 40 years. Look out for the hotel’s exclusive events, where enthusiasts can learn more about rare cigar, food and wine pairings. bulgarihotels.com

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THE GARDEN ROOM AT THE LANESBOROUGH This grand dame hotel’s newly renovated smoking area has long held its place as one of London’s original cigar terraces. The well-heated outdoor space remains pleasantly warm year-round, offers two large humidors stocked with impressive vintage and aged cigars as well as an exceptional bar. The collection includes limited edition and vintage cigars including the 50th Anniversary from Cohiba, Bolivar Soberanos LE 2018, Romeo Y Julieta Churchill and Partagas D No.4. The perfect spot to relax and enjoy an evening. » oetkercollection.com

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THE CIGAR TERRACE AT THE WELLESLEY The Wellesley Knightsbridge is one of the neighbourhood’s newest luxury hotels, with its reclaimed art deco grandeur matched by its sophisticated service. The hotel’s Cigar Lounge and Terrace is no exception, with a bespoke humidor that houses Europe’s largest collection of cigars – and one of the world’s most exclusive and extensive selections outside of Cuba. Humidor specialist Giuseppe Ruo and his team can advise connoisseurs, or guests can opt for the Cigar and Cognac Experience for a more tailored tour. marriott.com 90

HYATT REGENCY LONDON – THE CHURCHILL BAR & TERRACE Sir Winston Churchill is one of history’s most famous cigar afficionados and so it’s only natural that his namesake hotel, Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill should honour the former prime minister with a smoking terrace worthy of his name. The sumptuous bar pays homage in its statesmanlike decor, which includes original photographs and love letters between Sir Winston and his wife Clementine. The hotel’s award-winning cigar sommelier can match the perfect champagne to each guest’s selection from an exceptional humidor, ready to enjoy in comfort in the year-round outdoor terrace. thechurchillbar.co.uk

THE MONTAGUE ON THE GARDENS This charming Georgian townhouse in literary Bloomsbury is known for its fine dining and regular pop-up events, but the hotel’s cigar terrace is an equally opulent and serene escape from the bustle of the city. The Montague on the Gardens’ cigar terrace enjoys comfortable seating, ample heating and lighting and regular cigar tastings overlooking the secluded private gardens of the Bedford Estates. The Montague’s cigar sommelier works closely with Hunters & Frankau to fill its spacious humidor cabinet with the newest and most exotic cigars from around the world. montaguehotel.com

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WEALTH

SPENDING POWER How Henry – high earners, not rich yet – is the name to watch as new spending and investment shapes our post-pandemic world

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enry turns 30 in 2021, give or take a few years. They have a job that reflects their high level of education – think lawyer, banker, entrepreneur – and pays somewhere between £100,000 to £500,000 per year. Henry’s downtime is full of activities: their club memberships include the likes of Soho House and high-tech gyms; they holiday several times a year. They drink artisanal coffees and craft beer and their investment decisions, when they do invest, often veer towards the socially responsible – like social equality or the environment – or the more personal, such as collecting vintage guitars or modern street art.

Henry – that is, high earners, not rich yet – is how the financial industry has long referred to individuals, often millennials, who have a decent income now and could be truly wealthy in the future. They are the younger sibling of the high net worth individual and, according to luxury trade organisation Walpole, could yet prove the biggest influence on today’s luxury market.

The term Henry was first coined in the US

by Shawn Tully in a 2003 article for Fortune magazine. Tully referred to families earning around $500,000 per year but who, due to mortgages, student loans, school fees, club memberships and other financial debt, had little disposable income. The catchy acronym returned to American parlance during the 2008 presidential election, becoming a buzzword for almost-affluent millennials who could best be

described as the “working rich” – but, due to an apparent ‘work hard, play hard’ philosophy, needed to keep working to stay rich. This demographic has been defined by three key elements: a higher-than-average income, little to no savings, and a feeling of having little material wealth.

More recently, particularly as Henry has made its way into UK terminology, it has become something of a catch-all term for the future rich – and, much like the Yuppies (young urban professionals) and Dinks (dual income, no kids) of the 1980s, has become a prime target in luxury marketing.

This generation of affluent and active consumers is already primed to shop, though they are by and large a discerning bunch, seeking out brands whose values align with their own and ready to remain loyal to companies as their age and wealth increases – making them one of the most desirable clients. Additionally, as the market recovers from Covid-19 lockdowns, the larger numbers of potential consumers in the henry market (compared to HNWIs) makes up for the notquite-as-deep pockets.

But luxury brands should take note: while Walpole predicts that Henrys will only increase their purchasing power in the next two years, their discerning attitude and continued search for authentic and sustainable storytelling may, in fact, continue to shape the very market that is fighting for their future loyalty.

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SAVE the DATE Your luxury events calendar for February and March 2021

CULTURE Awards season kicks off later than usual this year with the US Grammys (14 Mar), where music’s brightest stars including Beyoncé, Billie Eilish and Harry Styles (right) go head to head for a prize. Meanwhile, film fans will have to wait until spring for the Baftas (11 Apr) and Oscars (25 Apr) to return. The Barbican has also announced the return of the New Suns Literary Festival (5-7 Mar), featuring talks, workshops and films centred around female storytelling, and by authors including Adrienne Maree Brown, Season Butler, Dorothea Lasky and Octavia Butler.

WATCHES & JEWELLERY Featuring a collection of exhibits by luxury brands and talks by trade specialists and expert watchmakers, the London Watch Show (26-27 Mar) will take place at JW Marriott Grosvenor House on Park Lane. Elsewhere, horologists can get up close and personal with some spectacular specimens at the China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair (13-16 Mar). China’s largest international watch and jewellery show, this mammoth event in the southern city of Shenzhen provides an excellent opportunity to view new collections and build business contacts. »

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SPORT The ever-fascinating America’s Cup (6-21 Mar, left), the world’s oldest international sporting trophy, returns four years since the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron took the sailing title from defending champions Team USA in Bermuda. Horse racing enthusiasts, meanwhile, will welcome the return of The Cheltenham Festival (16-19 Mar), while the Formula 1 season comes under starter’s orders with the spectacular Bahrain Grand Prix (28 Mar).

YACHTING Although the iconic Miami Boat Show is postponed until 2022, yachting fans can point their gaze toward the Gulf states for their fix of luxury boating. The Dubai International Boat Show (10-13 Mar, left) is shortly followed by the Qatar International Boat Show (23-27 Mar), both showcasing state-of-the-art yachts for sale and for charter. Also taking place in Dubai is the 2021 edition of The International Superyacht Summit (11-12 Mar), which will feature talks and discussions about the developments and trends in the industry from experts.

FASHION Fashionistas buckle your seatbelts because it’s that time of year again when the Big Four fashion capitals hold their fall/winter Women’s Fashion Weeks. Though most events are still taking place online this year, that won’t stop the best and brightest of couture being showcased at New York Fashion Week (13-18 Feb, left), followed by London (19-23 Feb), Milan (19-24 Feb) and Paris (4-6 Mar). Although not part of the Big Four, Rakuten Fashion Week – formerly known as Tokyo Fashion Week from (15-20 Mar) – will also put on a fashion-forward show.

For more exciting events, visit our website:

While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, changes to event calendars may occur. Please check with individual event organisers for more information.

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TIMING IS EVERYTHING

Heesen’s Project Triton offers the rare opportunity to own and enjoy a brand new yacht without the waiting. 50-metre Triton combines advanced Heesen engineering with Dutch craftsmanship, timeless exterior lines by Clifford Denn and contemporary interior design by Reymond Langton. With her full displacement steel hull and a range of 3,800 nautical miles, Triton is a true blue-water motor yacht.

Ready for delivery and perfectly on time for cruising this summer. heesenyachts.com

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TRIED

TASTED Words: Freddy Clode

Archie Hewlett’s luxury footwear brand Duke & Dexter enjoys celebrity fans including Eddie Redmayne and Ryan Reynolds.

Here, we walk a mile in Hewlett’s shoes to discover his favourite London restaurants… dukeanddexter.com

EFFORTLESS EVENINGS | THE CORAL ROOM This brightly coloured Bloomsbury bar designed by the acclaimed Martin Brudnizki is an elegant and energising venue for afternoon tea through to evening aperitifs.

Hewlett says: “Such a beautiful spot with an amazing team that always looks after you. Great cocktails and a really fun atmosphere. I can easily stay here from the early evening through to midnight.” thecoralroom.co.uk

LOCAL FLAVOUR | CAFÉ FLEUR

HOLDING COURT | HOME GROWN

PEOPLE WATCHING | THE DOLPHIN

Serving delicious brunch and lunch creations in London’s Wandsworth since 2013, Café Fleur is best known for owner Lucy Piper’s delicious home-baking – from organic sourdough bread and banana bread to vegan muffins. Piper also champions local suppliers, such as Brixton’s Volcano Coffee Works and Yeeld microgreens, Putney.

Private members’ club Home Grown in Marylebone is designed for entrepreneurs and pioneers. Both the Restaurant and Unicorn Bar menus are filed with home grown (naturally) and seasonal ingredients, healthy options and British favourites.

A Grade II-listed pub and nightclub, this rough and ready Hackney venue has been an East End institution for more than 150 years – and a favourite haunt of local legends and celebs including the late Caroline Flack and Michael Fassbender. Dine at nearby Mare Street Market’s Open Kitchen or for a vibrant taste of local delicacies.

Hewlett says: “The best Saturday brunch spot. So wholesome with a lovely little set up.”

Hewlett says: “The whole club has been beautifully designed and has a relaxed environment, with quiet rooms and soft lighting.

It’s perfect for private meetings or Zoom calls – and they have amazing coffee, too.”

Hewlett says: “For people watching, head to The Dolphin on a Friday night and you’ll see what I mean. I can say no more!”

cafefleurwandsworth.com twitter.com/dolphinhackney

homegrownclub.co.uk

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®

P R I Z E D BY C OL L EC TOR S .

P R A I S E D BY T H E C R I T IC S .

Mark Squires, Robert Parker Wine Advocate 95 points

Neal Martin, Vinous 97 points

Jancis Robinson, JancisRobinson.com 17.5++ points

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator 96 points

Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast 98 points

James Suckling, James Suckling.com 96 points

AVAILABLE TO ORDER FROM ALL FINE WINE MERCHANTS WWW.TAYLOR.PT PLEASE ENJOY TAYLOR’S PORT RESPONSIBLY

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