VEDERE International n. 4/2023 - Special SILMO

THE PORTRAIT OF DREAMS

A journey into real beauty

From the desire of LVMH, World leader in luxury, to raise eyewear as an essential element of its Maison’s collections and a pristine expression of their creativity, Thélios was founded in 2017. Pioneering a new luxury experience in eyewear, Thélios masters each step of its value chain, from conception to distribution of luxury sunglasses and optical frames for LVMH Maisons. Through its state-of-the-art Manifattura, located in Longarone, Italy, Thélios stands for Alta Occhialeria: an advanced savoir-faire, combining outstanding creativity and manufacturing excellence. Moreover, Thélios operates a highly selective distribution network with a direct commercial presence in all major markets.

LET’S START RUNNING AGAIN

We regretted these rhythms when we were stuck at home with the pandemic, now we are happily rushing from one side of the globe to the other for the autumn resumption of our industry’s trade fairs. The journey started at the beginning of September in Florence with DaTE (we talk about it in the following pages), but almost at the same time there was BOLD XXL in Holland. Soon we will be in Paris for Silmo, in Las Vegas for Vision Expo West or in San Francisco for LOFT. In October and November, IOFT and the Hong Kong Optical Fair await us. Let’s not complain then!

With the arrival of autumn, the waltz of new acquisitions, new or renewed licences, and new partnership formulas also started again. All situations that are perhaps changing the equilibriums of the sector. Consider, for example, the news that Kering will take over 30% of Valentino for €1.7 billion, the agreement also includes an option in favour of Kering to acquire 100% of Valentino’s share capital no later than 2028. Or the news regarding EssilorLuxottica which signed a global and perpetual licensing agreement with Eastman Kodak Company for the Kodak brand. Let us not forget the precedent in 2022 of the Tom Ford perpetual licence to Marcolin.

Fresh news of the return of the Italia Independent brand to the market at the hands of MODO Group. We will see how much Lapo Elkann’s presence influenced the brand’s notoriety.

Apart from the news strictly concerning the optics and eyewear sector, we cannot overlook the fact that the business revolution thanks to artificial intelligence is in full swing. According to data collected by the Polytechnic of Milan, more than 60 per cent of large companies have now launched projects and use AI tools, while, unfortunately, only 15 per cent of SMEs have so far embraced artificial intelligence. This factor increasingly compromises the possibility of growth for companies that give up a key element: speed. The use of AI is taking the whole world of data processing and analysis applied to business to a new level, becoming more and more an integral part of companies’ strategic thinking and operational practice, with significant impacts on performance and costs.

Isabella Morpurgo Editore VEDERE

What’s new at Silmo Paris 2023

A new visitor path, an award to raise awareness for social and environmental responsibility and much more....

“Since it was founded, SILMO Paris has been committed to accompanying professionals in inventing the future of the optical and eyewear field with actions that inform and increase the industry’s potential.” Amélie Morel, Chairman of SILMO Paris.

So, with a new arrangement in Halls 6 and 7, the trade fair reinvents the circuit to stimulate visitors’ curiosity and foster their discovery of nearly 1,000 exhibitors. This freshly redesigned space showcases the extensive content and distinctions coordinated by SILMO PARIS.

FUTUROLOGY

The interdisciplinary discussion space SILMO NEXT, dedicated to futurology, will propose a retrospective of the latest technological innovations. This muchneeded status check makes it possible to (re) discover the major areas of progress being made in the Smart Eyewear field, phygital experiences, and eco-responsible design. In addition to this immersive retrospective, FUTUROLOGY will provide unique experience zones where visitors may try out smart products, discover the latest trends in virtual reality, and experience an innovative approach

to sustainable production: visitors get the handson opportunity to inject frames with plastic from recycled bottles and can win a pair of customized frames crafted on-site.

TRENDS FORUM

Eyewear trends are displayed as clearly as ever, reflecting the digital magazine TRENDS by SILMO Showcased in a specially designed space, these major trends are represented by a selection of the best of optical and sunglasses frames from exhibitors attending the trade fair.

Nicolas Fafiotte

2023 OPTICAL AND EYEWEAR DESIGN COMPETITION

After kicking off the 2022 edition of SILMO Paris, the Optical Design Contest is back this year, inviting students at design schools all over the world to respond to a compulsory theme that is pertinent for the current day: sports. Made up of optical and design professionals and presided by MarieChristine Dorner – an interior architect, designer and scenographer –, the jury will meet on Friday, September 29th to choose the winner among the various concepts selected based on a complete file and a 3D print prototype.

SILMO D’OR AWARDS

The 30th edition of the SILMO d’OR awards in recognition of innovation and creativity, is an exceptional event since its launch in 1994, and the ultimate accolade for the ingenuity and inventiveness of over 330 companies. This year’s jury is chaired by Nicolas Fafiotte who, a graduate of the ESMOD School of Fashion Design (first prize in the Haute Couture category), trained in Paris, in particular with Emmanuel Ungaro, before moving to Lyon in the early 2000s where he opened his bespoke bridal and eveningwear atelier. The designer wins customers over with his sense of style and his demanding perfectionism. Always on the move, but careful to choose his collaborations sparingly, he regularly works with other brands to create, for example, a line of jewellery, bags, accessories and the spectacular looks of the ‘Live Show d’Etam Lingerie’.

Curious to discover other creative universes, Nicolas Fafiotte was eager to take on the prestigious role of President of the SILMO d’OR awards, all the more so as he is originally from Oyonnax, in the Ain region, which is the cradle of the French eyewear industry.

SILMO ACADEMY

“From planning performance to success: becoming elite practitioners of ocular care”: such is the 2023 theme of SILMO ACADEMY. The wording is a reference to the Rugby World Cup, which will be held concurrently with both the 2024 SILMO trade fair and the upcoming Olympics in Paris. Events that showcase the skills, desire for success and dedication of elite athletes from around the world. For this new edition of SILMO Academy, it was therefore important to offer professionals expertise in the field of optimisation.

Over two days – Saturday September 30th and Sunday October 1st –, the 12th edition of this scientific conference will take a close look at how to optimise performance and guarantee success, as viewed from two angles: the performance of the optical professional and the performance of the patient’s vision.

IOA, THE INTERNATIONAL OPTICIAN OF THE YEAR AWARD

A professional organisation based across the Channel, the International Opticians Association (IOA) awards a prize each year in partnership with SILMO Paris to highlight one optician who demonstrates exemplary professionalism. Ahead of designating the winner at the SILMO D’OR awards ceremony, the jury has had the honour of pre-selecting the five finalists: Jean-François Porte from France, Phernell Walker and Carrie Wilson from the United States, Angela Mitchell from New Zealand, and Vitor Manuel Simoes Martins from Portugal.

Responsible Company Prize

In the last few years, SILMO has begun to address corporate social and environmental responsibility (CSR). With punctual actions that inform and raise awareness, SILMO hopes to help get professionals in the field to take into account the importance of CSR. It offers opportunities to discuss and share experiences in order to coconstruct the industry’s best practices together.

This year, SILMO has decided to go one step further in accompanying the optical community on the essential yet sometimes complex path to CSR. SILMO launches a Responsible Company prize for progress in social and environmental responsibility.

This prize is open to all exhibitors, and it aims to distinguish one company from the optical sector for its contribution to reducing its environmental footprint and optimising its social impact.

SILMO intends on encouraging emulation rather than competition among companies. A winner will be selected, of course, but the application submission procedure will also make it possible to collect good corporate practices. These good practices will be highlighted to inspire the entire community.

To combine its knowledge of the optical field with the expertise of a recognized leader in the CSR area, SILMO joins forces with the CSR agency Hyssop, which will develop the specifications for the prize and provide a third-party evaluation of the companies submitting an application.

SILMO D’OR X PREMIÈRE CLASSE

Since 2016, the organisers of SILMO PARIS and PREMIÈRE CLASSE have joined forces to reward and support a new vision of eyewear creativity from the perspective of the “fashion accessory”. And so, at each edition of SILMO, a PREMIÈRE CLASSE prize is awarded during the SILMO d’OR awards ceremony.

Pure Italian inventiveness

Contemporary & cosmopolitan styles by

Personality, vibrant shades and luxury details: the collections by Area98 stand out for these remarkable features. The freshness of all the styles belongs to a perennial research and an exuberant creativity. Made with metal or acetate, Area98 frames are ambassadors for a distinctive signature.

Coco Song: East&West glitz

Totally handcrafted, these styles can be worn as precious jewels. The hyper-feminine shapes are intertwined with colorful silks, adorned with feathers and semiprecious stones.

CCS: From a fairy tale

Soft tones melted with glossy 24kt gold leaves, mixed directly into the compound. Metal and acetate models with extraordinary patterns, created through the transfer paper technique.

La Matta: Break the mould

Bold shapes, vibrant colors and animal prints: this collection reveals a kind of unconventional attitude. The luxury features on the temples are manufactured by an ancient wax technique.

Kaos: Think outside the box

Each style shows elaborate temples, crafted with a combination of materials, pigments and shapes apparently different from each other.

Genesis: Made to impress

Geometries and tridimensionality are the clou of this collection where light tricks enhance each design. From the classic and timeless black, to the contemporary shades, these frames are made for impressing.

CCS Collection

Genesis Collection

Area98

Trailblazing & Timeless

De Rigo’s new lines among romanticism, luxury and glam

A journey into the wide eyewear world, from the classic and chic femininity of Yalea to the vintage appeal of Lozza. From the quiet, understated luxury of Chopard to the quintessential sporty-luxury of Porsche Design Then discovering the two sides of boldness with Philipp Plein and Roberto Cavalli collections.

Yalea: Classic beauty code

SYA125: Oversize sunglasses with cat-eye front combining different coloured acetates and metal profiles, featuring a coloured wave detail on the side. The thin metal temples are made more comfortable by the acetate end pieces with monogram logo.

Lozza: A neverending story

VL4330: Zilo 2.0 model eyeglasses with bold profiles, double bridge and timeless design. The temple is embellished with refined details: in the upper part of the metal plate there is the iconic 5-stripes emblem.

Chopard: Understated charme

VCH358/V: sporty prescription glasses with a geometric front in thin acetate. The integrated double flex hinge ensures a perfect mix of aesthetics and functionality. The temple ends are enriched with rubber or nappa leather details.

Porsche Design: Quintessential sporty-luxury

P8966: On the occasion of the Porsche 911 60th anniversary, De Rigo presents the limited edition style (only 1963 pieces) inspired by the silhouette of the sports car. The use of 100% titanium makes the frame hyper-light and, together with the integrated spring hinge, offers maximum comfort. Available in black, in the special Shoreblue blue-grey shade and with lenses featuring the innovative VISION DRIVE™ technology.

Philipp Plein: Gothic audacity

VPP113: optical eyewear that combines bold style and sophisticated details. The front is geometric with an acetate rim combined with metal underneath. The bridge features a contrasting hexagonal PP logo engraving and lettering logo on the upper profile. The bold temples are personalised with a threedimensional gothic Plein lettering logo in metal, while the temple tips have a titanium decoration.

Roberto Cavalli: Futuristic glamour

SRC042: hyper wrap-around sunglasses with a futuristic design geometric front. The special feature of the model is in the temple personalised with the RC monogram in gold metal, also echoed on the inside of the end piece.

Limitless shapes for progressives

Progressives are the most technologically advanced lenses as they integrate several types of correction in one product. With progressives it is possible to focus from all distances, with the advantage of uniformity and fluidity in vision. The secret lies in the multifocal design that guarantees uninterrupted progression and increased magnification power in near and intermediate vision.

The design of progressive lenses, however, is also a fundamental characteristic of the eyewear shape. The choice of frame is often constrained when it comes to progressives, because the design of this type of lens struggles to adapt to different shapes. Hence, the customer is often forced to opt, with regret, for a frame other than the one chosen, in order to avoid compromising the functionality of progressives and thus their effectiveness.

With Eterea, this is no longer a problem: this new lens produced by Divel Italia is made using software that, thanks to a series of computations, selects the progressive design with the most suitable geometry for the shape of the chosen glasses. The software allows customisation of all progressive zones, near and far, the progression corridor, the inset, and the vertical and horizontal decentering. Depending on the wearer’s needs, the Eterea software automatically alters the inset, adds decentering, and modifies the design to best meet the needs of the wearer. As a result, the wearer will be free to choose the frame he or she likes, without worrying about affecting the quality of vision. Eterea adapts to all shapes: narrow and sharp, wide, round, square, teardrop...

Using the software, the various possible design combinations can be simulated in a matter of seconds: the simulation compares astigmatism, maximum and minimum thickness values and takes into account all visual requirements of the wearer. The power is functionally distributed in relation to the chosen shape, minimising aberration zones and maximising near, far and intermediate vision areas. Eterea is available in all indices and any Divel Italia treatment can be applied to it (Hard, Silken, Chroma, Silken White, Performance, Performance Plus, Performance NoUV).

Divel launches Eterea: the lens that fits like water

THE PROGRESSIVE THAT FLOWS LIKE WATER

Today’s generation needs

A focus on kids & youngs with new lines by stileItaliano Eyewear

There’s nothing to be taken for granted about smaller faces peculiarities: every single component is designed to be adapted to the today’s generation needs.

Here are some remarkable news, in special preview at SILMO 2023.

Aurora: The collection she was dreaming of

SI5019: the soft shape of this eyewear enveloped in heavenly light makes every little girl’s face gentle. Aurora, a new collection of its kind thanks to the noticeable gluing that creates a unique and dynamic play. Two acetates outline a harmonious design. A sturdy rod equipped with a Flex mechanism created to blindly go along with every single movement.

Matteo: Rebellious nature

SI5558: a square and vigorous eyewear that lets itself be observed, revealing a rebellious nature, with glossy and satin-finished nuances that chase each other without ever touching. The transparencies of the best Italian acetate by Mazzucchelli will find their finest expression here. But the secret of its pleasing irreverence lies in the rod having an embossed core, which reveals its design reflection after reflection.

Leo: Istinctive gaze

SI6009: a metal frame with vigorous features that makes a sly child’s gaze even more cunning. Straight, geometric lines for bold children. Deep colors to create a unique agreement between silverplated or ruthenium metal and Flex temples to make the eyewear extraordinarily resistant and ready to withstand all the adventures of the little ones. Leo, when a child’s instinct takes shape.

mod SI5019

mod SI6009

mod. FT1067 - NICOLETTA: The limited edition Whitney with cutaway lenses set into durable, ultra-light titanium frames.

Whitney evolution

The unforgettable shape is on top again with new options and high style

The Whitney frame takes center stage in this season’s TOM FORD Archive collection

The iconic style comes in exciting new variations, each renamed to signal its singular appeal. Consistent across the range: a dramatic flair that sits at the intersection of audacious and fanciful. The design’s distinguishing element is its graceful “infinity cross” front that creates a boldly alluring butterfly effect. This visual impact makes the Whitney a favorite of celebrities including Charlize Theron, Keira Knightley and Angelina Jolie. The Nicoletta is an exciting limitededition titanium frame. The Bettina, Fernanda and Jada styles all feature the butterfly silhouette and the Tom Ford signature metal ‘T’ insert at the temple – a mark of high elegance and masterful design.

A sparkling Fall

Reinforcing the presence at the international fairs and introducing exciting new lines

GO Eyewear Group, which recently acquired the Trussardi brand for its portfolio, begins the 2nd semester with an active participation in international fairs.

In September, it will once again attend to the iconic fair in Florence, DaTE, presenting the latest trends for this winter by Ana Hickmann Eyewear and Jo&Margot Milano, a Made in Italy brand. Then at BOLD, an increasingly popular fair, in Utrecht, Holland, introducing all its collections, including Trussardi. And finally, SILMO. Participation in fairs will continue on October, culminating in southern Italy’s growing fair, Expoottica Sud, in Taormina. Among the collections highlights, a “back to the feminine” design by Ana Hickmann crafted in acetate, stainless steel and beta-titanium: bold and geometric frames showcasing a luxury style with a fresh twist. Moreover, for the first time the brand introduces a clip-on line for a 24h practical use.

SHOP WINDOWS & PROMOTION AREAS

Through flexible and simple redecoration, is possible to approach customers in front of the shop as well as on the sales floor in a promotionally effective way.

MERCHANDISE DISPLAY & MID-ROOM FURNITURE

CAROLINE is ideal for wall displays, presenting brands and retail goods, as well as customized midroom furniture. The modular design and the large selection of components make it easy to create ever new merchandise arrangements.

ROOM DIVIDER & STORAGE SPACE

CAROLINE offers the possibilities to easily reorganize your shop floor space by putting together roomdividing elements in any size. It is just as easy to design completely individual storage space furniture with our tray inserts, shelves, and corpuses - all customized to personal needs.

SERVICE & CONSULTING AREAS

CAROLINE can create an appealing ambience in the counselling areas and at the same time ensure sufficient privacy with separating elements. Your service areas will also be optimally equipped using matching basic shelving units and the corresponding components.

Connecting without visible connections

CAROLINE is a new shelving & presentation system by [concept-s]. Thanks to its modular structure and variability in height and width, countless furnishings can be put together in horizontal and vertical alignment. The filigree grid structure can then be equipped with various components to create individual and ever-changing product displays. All parts are simply plugged in and can be dismantled flat, which means low transport and storage volume.

A new furnishing system for all the store areas

Authenticity since 1880

A distinguishing claim, 3 identifying collections

One year only after the redesign of its visual identity, MOREL is rethinking its offer and highlighting its legitimacy and expertise through three new product ranges. Guided by the desire to simplify its catalog for increased clarity and attractiveness, the French eyewear manufacturer is taking a significant step forward in its growth perspective.

The “MOREL” collection redefines the brand’s excellence by concentrating all its know-how within a promise of comfort. Its wide variety of styles allows for the offering of ultra-feminine models at the heart of the trend as well as masculine linework with intricate or minimalist finishes. Each frame is also equipped with patented screwless and solderless hinge technology, providing an unparalleled wearing experience that emphasizes the technical expertise of the eyewear manufacturer. A comprehensive offering, the range also includes a completely renewed line of sunglass frames.

This first collection is also featured in their new advertising campaign, “LOOKING FORWARD SINCE 1880.” A faithful continuation of their series of vintage shots, which started in September 2022, the eyewear manufacturer symbolically connects with its optical audience by adding skilled hands to dress and adjust the gaze of each face. A contrast game can be noted between the hands and the colorful frames placed on black and white faces.

In the second phase, the promise of authenticity is leading the “Marius MOREL” collection. With a heritage of 143 years, MOREL wanted to pay homage to its historical know-how by precisely revisiting the iconic models that marked its past. The timeless shapes that made the brand successful from the 1950s come to life again, capturing the elegance at the origin of its renown. According to the company’s Artistic Director, Denis Bellone, it’s a challenge infusing the essential touch of modernity without altering the work of his predecessors, especially in terms of comfort and choice of materials.

Finally, MOREL presents its “M” collection. An embodiment of the brand’s promise of creative accessibility, it is based on original and refined shapes, offering astonishing contrasts through color combinations and stylistic twists. But what sets it apart is its availability in a wide range of sizes to meet specific needs, ranging from XS to XL, while remaining affordable. Pleasure at a lower cost.

MOREL collection mod. 8664

MARIUS MOREL collection

Legendary but accessible

Discovering the Bold Women’s Fashion at INVU

Oversized square shaped women’s sunglasses with wide temples have iconic status in the fashion world and are undoubtedly one of the main trends for the upcoming 2024 season. The INVU designers refined this legendary shape from the 70s and 90s into bold, uptown sunglasses that will turn heads.

INVU’s exclusive new release is crafted in the latest catwalk colors and combines translucent pastel frame shades with silver and gold medallions on the temples to add a touch of glamour and sophistication. Equipped with beautifully matching gradient ultra polarized lenses, the latest INVU release not only offers fashion, but also high-tech functionality to fashion-conscious women. A trendy and premium appeal combined with high price-quality ratio is one of the long-standing INVU highlights.

mod. Cannes

Debuting a democratic design

ARU Eyewear, a brand born in 2019 from the idea of Daniela Verazzo, an architect with a passion for fashion design, fully develops its products in Italy, from the design to the entire production, through an ideal fusion of aesthetics and functionality. High quality with a democratic approach: craftsmanship, innovation and attention to sustainability, to characterise all style choices with shapes, colours and details. The creative design is completed by the functional structure and fit study, with quality materials and handcrafted attention to detail. The shapes, reworked with creativity from architectural lines, reveal a strong identity through unusual combinations of colours, transparencies and 3D effects, capable of giving uniqueness and recognisable distinctiveness to the frames. The materials, with a short supply chain that respects the environment and the territory, are produced entirely in Italy, such as precious cellulose acetates, with reduced solvent content, and metals with nickel-free electroplating. The handcrafted processes such as cutting, milling, laser engraving, profiling and enamelling are carried out by the best eyewear artisans in Italy.

THE ARU LINES

AVENUE: metal styles with nickel-free electroplating, unusual shapes, also in creative finishes such as enamel and leather, inspired by the world’s great fashion streets.

STONE: in 100% made-in-Italy cellulose acetate with special processing of the fronts, milling and laser engraving, which continue along the diamond-cut temple. All models are named after semi-precious stones and have workings that enhance the threedimensionality effect.

FLAT: Ultra-flat frames in ultra-light photo-cut steel with a satin finish and cellulose acetate rims and temple tips. Matching the collection, an exclusive designer microfibre artistically illustrates the design of the last thirty years, in flat mode.

NATOORI’: sustainable, genderless capsule collection with strong lines enhanced by thicknesses. Made from organic acetates, formulated with biodegradable plasticisers and additives. The palette is rich in warm and vibrant crystal shades inspired by nature. The customised core with engraved logo is equipped with a sevenjoint hinge. Stored in a semi-rigid, handmade, ecofriendly clutch bag with internal pockets for further use.

Natoorí Collection, mod. Flos

Stone Collection, mod. Giada

The Première at Silmo of a 100% made in Italy, sustainable, inclusive and cool brand

Déco geometries and harvest nuances

Continuing Essedue’s chic-ironic style, inspired by the ‘20s and ‘40s

The “Art Dèco” movement is a rich source of ispiration for designers: the Fall Winter eyewear is still a tribute to the geometries, graphics and architecture of that age, with its highest concentration of buildings between 1920 and 1940. Several concepts are developed in the collection with details and gluing recalling this style, from regular volumes and reduced thicknesses that present lines on the front and on the stem inspired by the Chrysler Building in New York; or more generous volumes and greater thicknesses that host a geometric gluing on the front, typical of some Art Deco works exhibited at the Moma in NY.

With the Fall Winter 2023 collection, Essedue wants to pay homage to the element of earth. Earth, humanity’s home and place of origin, has often been venerated as a symbolic element, endowed with its own spiritual significance, by various traditions of thought. During Autumn, earth changes its colours on a defensive dimension. The search for nuances, one of Essedue’s strength, is aimed at mixing several colours together, finding that balance that makes every shade combined harmoniously. In women’s collections, in addition to black and havana, we have sage and powder, amaranth and cream, havana_ indigo and violet, green_dark, solid smoke, shaded light brown. In the men’s collection in addition to black and havana the colours are light_grey, havana_blue with light_blue, havana_bordeaux with light burgundy. In the sunglasses collection besides black and classic havana, brick with light havana, havana with green, champagne with light havana. Lenses are full and shaded smoke, full and shaded brown, aviator green.

mod Malibu

mod Koral

Authentically contemporary design and uncompromising style

Strength, power, and character: the unequivocal stylistic hallmark of the new genderless collection that the Bologna-based lifestyle brand is premiering at Silmo 2023. The new models in the Heritage and Bold Lines draw inspiration from the brand’s history and boast a design with highly distinctive and evocative details. Unique elements include the famous “Charging Bull”, a universal symbol of bravery and entrepreneurial spirit, and the unmistakable logo of a brand that has been creating unique lifestyle accessories and real estate ventures globally for decades.

The Tonino Lamborghini Heritage Line

Among the novelties showcased at the Parisian Kermesse is the exclusive TL538 model from the Heritage Line: trendy square-shaped stainless steel sunglasses with sharp lines, dedicated to a genderless clientele who are always on top of the latest trends. The front features a double bridge with an empty central shield, an acetate insert, logo, and Torx® screws. Maximum attention to detail is also in the temples, in stainless steel with a three-dimensional Miura Bull, nose pads, and black acetate temple tips, enriched by the external logotype and the red shield detail on the inside.

The Tonino Lamborghini Bold Line

The brand-new, bold TL540 is an acetate sunglass model featuring a front with high and low surface relief and personalized by the unmistakable central shield detail. The temples, with a three-dimensional shield and the Tonino Lamborghini lettering in gold, recall the Brand’s mechanical heritage in the hinge motif. The inside of the temple tips features, as usual, the shield styling in red. All models in the collection come with their bold yet elegant carbon fiber effect case and Tonino Lamborghini branded cloth, evoking the brand’s legendary legacy.

The new Eyewear collection by Tonino Lamborghini

Through the fusion of ULTEM with ultra-thin surgical stainless steel a unique, technologically advanced, and consummately designed product has been created. Its subdued coloring gives the collection a look of elegant understatement. Each frame weighs approximately 9 grammes, making it a lightweight which provides excellent comfort for its wearer. In Summer 2013 the 1 collection was launched with a range of seven shapes in seven subtle colors. Sales success up to this point shows that IMAGO has taken the right path. Meanwhile the are 5 further design versions of IMAGO ULTRALIGHT frames, becoming the only producer worldwide offering such a great variety of ULTEM frames with regard to styles as well as colors. The current trend of bolder, thicker shapes will also be incorporated into the collection, offering comfort of wear coupled with up-to-date design.

9 grammes of boldness

ULTRALIGHT collection: an ULTEM soul for an understatement style

Curious and open-minded about innovations, advancing technologies, and new trends. When 13 years ago IMAGO heard about a new plastic material called ULTEM, immediately considered its potential as a raw material for frames. ULTEM is extremely resistant against heat and keeps its shape reliably. It also holds up extremely well under tension and is highly resistant against UV rays. It is for these reasons that ULTEM is increasingly employed in medical engineering as well as in the electronics and aviation industries. As eyewear designers the main focus of IMAGO is -- next to its technological advantages -- on the aesthetic and lightness of the material.

mod. Sirius

mod. Alpha

Individual and timeless

An individual look and sustainable products – more and more people attach great importance to that. Genuine horn-rimmed spectacles answer that claim and are coming into vogue again. LUNOR has had its own buffalo-horn collection in stock since 2021. The exclusive material perfectly matches the standards of Lunor – manufacturing elaborately handcrafted frames in timeless design with highest quality and considering sustainability. All genuine horn-rimmed spectacles are made of pure multilayered horn, functionally rivetted using the characteristic Lunor double-rivet hinge. This special spectacles material offers high wearing comfort and stays durably attractive with a little care.

Buffalo horn as material is available in a wide range of colors from dark brown to mocha to a soft creamy white. The grain of the horn is individual, which makes each pair of glasses unique.

Lunor does not use horn of protected animals but only horn of Indian water buffaloes – held in great esteem as working animals in farming – that have met their natural death. Horn material left in processing is being used as natural fertilizer.

Genuine horn frames offer several advantages because of their special characteristics and answer the slowfashion claim because horn is a natural material processed without additives. It is considered to be allergyfree, so it is particularly suitable for people with delicate skin prone to allergies. The wearing comfort is excellent, too, because the material adapts marvelously to the individual shape of the head of its wearer, it is pleasantly warm on the skin, with almost no accumulating heat. Another advantage is that horn frames are significantly lighter than acetate frames. In particular with wearers that need glasses with a high diopter number, every gram counts that they have to wear on their noses. At the same time, genuine horn frames are very durable so that only the lenses must be replaced over the years.

Lunor supplies a special care cream with all genuine horn-rimmed spectacles. The frame should be checked by an optician once or twice a year and polished up if necessary. All in all, genuine horn-rimmed spectacles are an optician’s visiting card showing that they know their craft in every respect because the handling of genuine horn demands a lot of sense and expertise.

Natural horn-rimmed spectacles by Lunor

Whenpáthos is a frame

Unprecedented collection dedicated to the legendary Greek couple Callas-Onassis debuts at SILMO

mod. Venetia

Apulian brand Bayria Eyewear presents seven all-new models, with shapes from the 1960s and a style as sophisticated as the allure of the two protagonists of this line. Three-dimensional acetate frames made unique by characterising details and textured décor. Sheets of different colours are superimposed and then engraved to allow the underlying colour to emerge, without interrupting the continuity of the shape, or handcrafted by specialised artisans into natural geometric shapes that allow light to create kaleidoscopic effects. Pantos models enriched with hand-chiselled tenons or two-tone flag temples, to be worn like the bijoux that the diva Maria Callas used to have crafted for her debuts; hexagonal shapes in which the overlapping of several plates creates surprising colour combinations, but also important frames in which the square and bold front is softened by snouts. And again, jagged round shapes and maxi diva glasses with polygonal processing.

Freshly designed

A new collab’ for a small edition of artistic and sustainable eyewear

The partnership of Leinz Eyewear and the talented French fashion designer Guillaume Larquemain combines their commitment to craftsmanship and artistic vision, resulting a unique and innovative designs. Bringing together their expertise and creativity to create a small edition of stylish and sustainable eyewear. Each piece is an art work applying Guillaume Larquemain’s unique apple skin pattern as a texture to the exceptional Leinz eyewear pieces. The frames feature bold silhouettes, sophisticated details and eco-friendly materials, making them a popular choice for fashion-conscious individuals. The logo is an apple seed.

Fascinating Winter

Discovering one of the most innovative nuances @Dutz Eyewear

What are the fashion colours for winter? Well, there is much variation! Black and white monochrome, fiery red, happy orange, Egyptian indigo blue, but we will also see plenty of fuchsia and purple tones. The Dutz designers have created a collection for those who wish to have a unique and distinctive look. A good balance between striking but commercial, looking at the current trends, that’s what Dutz is all about again this fall season.

Majestic Blue

Egyptian indigo blue transports us to a world full of mystery and fascination. The deep, rich hue instils a sense of luxury and adventure in us, while at the same time exuding peace and serenity. The magic of this colour can be seen in model DZ231345 where the designers have combined an indigo blue and ochre marble look acetate with the metal in subtle satin gold. The top rim has been given a bright blue accent.

Ars gratia artis

The best and selected pigments, additives and essences come together to give shape to a collection of glasses where the uniqueness of the Amanite® material and colour are the real protagonists. An exclusive project born with the aim of creating a bold and refined product, entirely made in Italy, with special attention to craftsmanship, detail and innovation. “’THE ART OF SEEING’, the slogan that perfectly represents the identity of the Estiara brand, develops around CEO Antonio Guitart’s intuition that eyewear is not a simple object but an accessory with its own personality. Estiara glasses are in fact synonymous with uniqueness whose stylistic signature is extraordinarily based on the concept of Art.

Estiara Milano shows a new vibrant collection

Sculptured bow

CURVA is a sculpture created by craftsmen’s hands in the Atelier Jacques Durand in Italy, where the synergy between the goldsmith’s art of Vicenza tradition and the technical and production skills inherited from the French creator’s experience in the world of eyewear is expressed. The front is obtained from a 10 millimetre thick sheet of Japanese acetate that is internally sculpted by hand to obtain the desired ergonomic shape with an extremely shiny and polished appearance. Gold-plated hinges complete the frame.

Let materials shine

The Danish eyewear brand is recognised for its commitment to craftsmanship and innovative design. This season, FLEYE Copenhagen introduces “MATERIALS”: a bold exploration, pushing boundaries and redefining traditional eyewear aesthetics. Comprising 18 meticulously crafted eyewear frames, the brand combines its unrivaled expertise with the finest materials available in the industry, resulting in unparalleled comfort, durability, and style. “FLEYE Copenhagen has always believed in the power of simplicity and the beauty of materials. By removing unnecessary distractions, we let the materials speak for themselves, resulting in frames that are both understated and impactful. The collection is a testament to our dedication to innovation and our passion for eyewear. The fusion of cutting-edge design, superior craftsmanship, and exceptional comfort define this collection.” – Annette Estø, Head of Marketing & Design.

mod. Kvist

mod. CURVA 10 - 002

FLEYE Copenhagen redefines premium eyewear design

A materic and ergonomic design crafted in Jacques Durand Atelier

mod. Plus One

Sensory expression

A strong aesthetic signed by J.F. REY

Assertive lines, ambitious volumes, modern shapes, eye-catching graphic interplays, and vibrant colors that change perceptions: a new collection which expresses all the power and originality of the J.F. REY DNA. A “New Concept” of optical frames for men combining titanium, stainless steel and carbon into unprecedented thicknesses work and highly technical complexity which takes nothing away from style and elegance. The fusion of performance and style. A strong aesthetic signed by J.F. REY and very well thought out in structure detailing, refinement features and the sensory expression of the design. The brand is also launching its first sunglasses collection. Mens’ styles come into creative blends of exceptional materials and sophisticated palettes that evoke all the meticulous work and technical complexity of the models. While women’s styles are infused of 70s chic and glamorous spirit: original shapes, geometric constructions of acetates and custom graphic associations of colors.

Daring frames

The broad and comprehensive offering eyewear at Ørgreen Optics adds new spectacular styles. Highlights include model Plus One, a daring frame that takes inspiration from the classic Pilot tear drop sunglasses, infusing it with a bold and sporty twist. Model Wish features a softly squared pantos shape, perfectly blending a classic look with modern aesthetics.The discreet 3D printed side shields really set this style apart. Model Epic is Ørgreen’s avant-garde acetate masterpiece, showcasing a perfect fusion of design and functionality, with a remarkable emphasis on volumes. The frame features a bespoke patterned core-wire. The new geometric signature metal rivet exemplifies Ørgreen’s meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail. Model Fire Starter is similarly striking, showcasing a play of minimal dimensions. Easy thin lines harmoniously blend to create a timeless and commercially appealing product. Model Like Heaven is produced in Ørgreen’s Titanium sheet; the frame offers a daring navigator look with its large structure and captivating double bridge.

The new collection highlights at Ørgreen Optics

mod. JF3056 TITANIUM New Concept

Perfect balance

Brilliant craftsmanship and strong heritage at MASUNAGA

A rich heritage and a commitment to quality that dates back over 100 years: the past is the key to today and tomorrow at MASUNAGA

Craftsmanship creates a perfect balance in design and technique that you can strongly see in the latest models AQUILA and TAURUS

With the new concepts of a three-dimensional unique plastic fronts and detailed metal parts, a technique developed through integrated production is reflected in the beautiful texture on materials and the precision of details when all the parts are put together.

Including these 2 models, 11 captivating new styles and 2 elegant new colors are released for 2023 Fall/Winter. Discover the essence of a brilliant craftsmanship in their latest models.

mod. Aquila

ACTIVE CLIP: love at first sight

On the occasion of Silmo 2023, for the return to school, Active Frames from Centro Style presents two frame models designed for children aged 6 to 10 years. Ultralight, flexible and resistant, they are combined with a special magnetic clip-on with polarised lenses. A super-comfortable ‘two-in-one’ solution, thanks to the adjustable temple tips and rubber overinjection. Each model is available in four different colours with the visible clip-on in two playful shapes. For energetic children with a magnetic style, the company has come up with a ‘lightning’ system. If, on the other hand, their world is in a fairytale book or a doll’s house, the model with the heart magnet is the perfect one.

Active Frames

The brand was created in collaboration with paediatric ophthalmologists and is dedicated to the visual well-being of children from birth to adolescence. The collections are designed for the specific needs of children of different age groups, taking into account the conformation of the nasal septum, comfort, safety and optical centre retention in every wearing situation. All Active Frames collections are light, flexible, soft, comfortable and impact resistant and are certified and compliant with EU regulations.

A “back to school” line by Centro Style

An infinitely customisable idea

Jewelry inspired frames made with “16 hands”

Ludovic Elens, the eponymous eyewear craftsman, and Moïse Mann, the jeweller from Manalys, bring to life a jeweller-inspired customizable pair of glasses. An unprecedented piece named “High Line” that will appeal to both lovers of beautiful frames and aficionados of jewellery art. A frame made with 16 hands: if Ludovic Elens and Moïse Mann had the idea and evolved it, eight other artisans from their respective teams contributed their expertise to this exceptional piece, both in its creation and realisation. “When creating an object, one naturally thinks of a client, someone who can be imagined wearing it. In fact, we conducted virtual tests by placing the pair of glasses on different faces. Unlike other artistic professions, we are fortunate to be in contact with the end customer. We will know who has acquired it and will wear it,” says Moïse Mann. This time, the piece was created for a man. A true signature for the one who will have the pleasure of owning it.”

Brilliant Italian craftsmanship

in Italy with international flair

The frames of the Belluno-based brand Dario Martini are entirely designed and manufactured in the Domegge di Cadore site with a short, all-Italian supply chain. A craftsmanship that makes the most of local resources to create a product with an international flavour. The latest Dario Martini collection offers a prescription model with a butterfly-shaped front in cellulose acetate, finely decorated on the metal temple with small precious crystals. In addition to the classic black and tortoise, the line focuses on pastel shades more akin to its female target audience: Light Pink combined with rose gold and Ultramarine Green with silver.

DM 856

Made

Coup de théâtre!

Stage effects creating unexpected visual impressions

Exploring the paths

Five new carving shapes named after a member of the Kirks mod. Van

Inspired by the geology of a river carving its path through the earth, with its natural lines and unique facets, the Contour Collection brings a new dimension to the Kirk & Kirk collections. Comprised of five shapes, each is named after a member of the Kirk family - Emma, Zara, Layla, William & Van. All are available in eight sand-blasted colours: Jet, Glacier, Smoke, Jungle, Admiral, Candy, Indigo and Carmine. “It’s about amplifying the very best in our unique materials” says designer, Karen Kirk .“Throughout the design process we take a sculptural approach; sizing and re-shaping our very own grade of Italian acrylic in the same way a sculptor shears a rock”. The fronts are hand-crafted from our unique bespoke Italian acrylic which is then sand-blasted to create the matte finish. The frames are hand-made in Italy. The temples are cast in Alpaca Silver- a metal favoured by jewellery designers. The spring joint ensures a lightweight, comfortable frame.

Mod. Dama

VANNI’s new collections are charged with theatrical charm thanks to a series of scenic contrivances. In the feminine Tandem models, the bas-relief effect is reminiscent of a weave of coloured ribbons framing the eye. Or, in the Dama model, the mother-of-pearl effect recalls the refined and luxurious richness of damask fabrics on a refined bright green shade. Unexpected visual suggestions but calibrated in their sobriety. Even for the men’s collection, small details count: the Remaster frame, in thin metal, is enlivened by a dot of colour on the thickness of the profile.

The trend is block-less

Developed from MEI’s experience in manufacturing lens edging machines, the EasyFit Trend is the new block-less compact solution tailored for optical shops and small labs. This new edger represents a further breakthrough for the field with its unique features, including: the high precision and reliability of milling technology, Eco-friendly Dry Cut technology with saving 1 million liters/264k gallons a year, the “No Block” system that eliminates blocks and pads.The new EasyFit Trend features an innovative tracing system that further increases the overall productivity and a new modern, compact design. MEI has also integrated into this new machine the “Total Quality Control” system, developed on top range products. The built-in inspection instruments assure the precise automatic measurement of all the optical parameters, avoiding any other inspection process before and after the edging. Other important benefits of the new solution are the possibility to easily edge prescription lenses for sport frames and the opportunity to create a totally customized lens with the Creativity Engraving function.

A drammatically different technology

Monoqool launches new translucent 3D printing with eco-friendly manufacturing process

3D-printed glasses have in recent years been one of the fastest-growing categories of eyewear. 3D technology has become a part of the lineup of many opticians across the world. Until now the materials available to make durable and long-lasting glasses have been limited to glasses with matt solid coloured surfaces. But now Danish eyewear brand, Monoqool, adds another dimension to 3D printing: semi-transparent 3D printed glasses. Not only a new take on 3D printed glasses, but it also features an environmentally friendly manufacturing process - the LIQUID 3D Technology™ process with 90% reduction in energy consumption. The LIQUID 3D Technology™ provides one of the most sustainable manufacturing processes in the eyewear field. A low-temperature process combined with ultra-fast printing means that very little energy is consumed compared to conventional SLS 3D printing. In fact, 90% less energy is used during manufacturing with this process, resulting in a dramatically reduced Co2 footprint. And compared to the process of making traditional acetate glasses the CO2 reduction is even higher. A positive step in relation to reducing the environmental impact of eyeglasses in general.

A new compact solution developed by the SILMO d’Or 2021 winner

Drawing on the past

Rewind is the brainchild of Patrizia Puliti and Paolo Corraddossi, who have 30 years’ experience both in eyewear production and in the research and development of independent eyewear brands.

The impetus for the birth of Rewind also comes from the place of their first meeting, which took place in the early 1990s, at Italian Style, an eyewear company based in Florence, which is still remembered today for its important contribution to the optical sector in those years. The collection, comprising 17 models, pays homage to the 1990s: under the watchful eye of the present, iconic shapes of Italian culture and Made in Italy have been re-interpreted. Important profiles are re-evaluated, favouring the havana shades that dominated in those years: classic, coloured, speckled. To these, fresh colours, crystals, shades from blue to red, from green to caramel have been combined, giving strength to the models and bringing them closer to a contemporary aesthetic.

Outdoor enthusiasts’ choice

four new high-performance sunglasses

Versatile and contemporary in structure and style, the new sports sunglasses feature advanced scratchresistant SuperThin Glass lenses: 32% thinner and lighter than standard glass, the material offers optimal vision and comfort through the day. Whether it’s a scorching summer day or challenging snowy conditions, Maui Jim’s sun lenses provide superb visual clarity, reducing eye fatigue and enhancing visual acuity for an unparalleled sporting experience. Anemone, Mangroves, Nuu Landing and The Flats are designed to provide exceptional UV protection, performance and style for all sports enthusiasts.

NUU LANDING

For its abundant natural beauty and observable wildlife, Nuu Landing is a beloved destination for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers. An inspired nylon design, this quintessential wrap creates a modern appeal with high performance thermoplastic elastomer accents, a sustainable substitution to traditional rubber materials. Combining a streamlined construction with PolarizedPlus2® lenses, Nuu Landing offers unmatched protection with an environmental focus for all outdoor escapades.

mod. NUU LANDING

mod. Interstellar

Maui Jim is launching

A collection created on the basis of the value of lived experiences and the importance of Memory

Patented luxury

The ultimate fusion of functionality and aesthetics

Plant-based core

The key of sustainability: a convincing premium aesthetic for durable frames

Neubau Eyewear presents new shapes made from its plant-based acetate. With the newest addition to their natural acetate portfolio, the Austrian brand once again proves its commitment to quality, sustainability, and convincing premium aesthetics. Each frame is carefully handcrafted using the finest, sustainable materials, ensuring durability and comfort without compromising style. The model Gabriel follows the approach of a modern aviator highlighting a classic shape with a contemporary twist. Underlined by a distinct color palette, ranging from deep colors such as dark tortoise and black to subtle, fashionable colors such as crystal clear and green, Gabriel offers individuality for each character. The frame Celine reflects current trends as a new version of a timeless butterfly shape. Cooler, state-of-the-art colors such as rose and grey, as well as bold colors such as dark tortoise and black create a highlight piece with a perfect distinctiveness.

Departing from its innovative one-of-a-kind patented rotation system launched in 2016, MOVITRA has developed an exclusive and luxurious eyewear product, with advanced and innovative construction techniques, particular to their product. With optical and sunglass styles featured in the latest collections, behind each frame is a process of research and development, carefully managed to create the ultimate fusion of functionality and aesthetics, where every part of the construction is precisely finished with a combination of traditional craft and advanced Italian production techniques. Extremely attentive to the choice of materials, the design team addresses the distribution of the weight of the glasses, when worn, as well as different modes of combining multiple materials to elevate functionality and design features. “We use many different types of metals on the same eyewear, from brass to titanium, from nickel silver to steel of different types - explains Giuseppe Pizzuto, Creative Director and Co-Founder. Each metal has its own characteristics and performance and we, with the help of our precious suppliers who know the materials perfectly, have developed exciting ways to make the most of each of these characteristics.”

mod. CELINE

FABIO AVARELLO

Product Manager, Creative Director and specialist consultant in the eyewear sector for both Retail and Wholesale, he works with major manufacturers as well as emerging companies, developing winning collections and trends. He supports sales and marketing teams to achieve their objectives, proactively suggesting tactical and strategic actions both in terms of marketing and through the application of category management rules, anticipating consumer and market needs. As a qualified optician and optometrist, he designed and strategically managed assortments for 10 years in large Italian optical retail companies.

fabioava@hotmail.com

BACK TO ‘00 s

Holiday time is over. It has been a peculiar summer, both in terms of weather and on a commercial level, with an approach influenced by uncertainty and prudence, at all levels.

September means a return to everyday working life, a ‘new beginning’, traditionally more important on a commercial level than in January, with the expected arrival of the new editions of trade fairs (starting with Date in Florence and Silmo in Paris). These events will be a very important opportunity to plan the last quarter, a period that has a

significant specific weight, which is reflected on the entire year, both for purchases and for in-store sales. Trade fairs are also a unique opportunity to concentrate market insight in a few days, establishing new relationships and consolidating existing ones.

Certainly, there is no online event that can replace the added value of this osmotic exchange vis à vis. In a precise and limited space of time, it is necessary to put together ideas, analyse proposals, select target products, promote them

di Fabio Avarello

Aru Eyewear

in retail and ensure their sell out. There will be no success if these activities are not well planned and rationally analysed; only a rational approach, in this respect, can help in interpreting the most suitable style trends and, consequently, selecting the most appropriate products in terms of both quality and quantity.

Speaking of trends: in all categories of the fashion industry (from clothes to accessories such as shoes and bags), there will be a predominant ‘back to the 2000s’ effect. Even the eyewear sector will not be immune to this trend: wrap-around sunglasses in very curved bases, single-lensed spectacles for both a more sporty and a glamorous look (let’s not forget that 2024 will also be the year of the Paris Olympics, which will certainly exert a certain influence on style...).

The shapes and sizes of prescription frames will favour horizontal development (rectangular, elongated) over the vertical development seen in recent years; it will also be the year for new repropositions of glasant glasses, which in the recent past seemed to have almost disappeared from the horizon. In general, we will see this accentuated duality between the more flamboyant styles in the ‘sun’ part of the collections and more minimalist styles for the ‘prescription glasses’ segment. Our sector, too, is and will be increasingly affected by the ‘concentration’ strategies linked to the acquisition of major fashion brands by the Luxury giants. There is a constant succession of news about changes of manufacturers, distributors and licences passing from one company to another, with all the consequent problems - from stock management to the evaluation of the continuation of commercial relations with new interlocutors. Often, in these cases, it is a matter of field choices, where instinct should not prevail over ‘reason’.

It will not be easy. But all entrepreneurs have as their first mission to be optimistic. This positive attitude is, however, never sufficient on its own. It is necessary to prepare oneself properly, arriving and facing the coming months in a scientific and precise way. This is the approach of Category Management: opticians should increasingly deepen their knowledge and techniques in order to be better prepared to face an increasingly competitive market, in which efficiency has at least equal value to effectiveness.

Maui Jim

Monoqool Eyewear

La Marca

Place d’Italie…

It’s official: the best ideas come in the shower. When the warm water washes away the residual sleep and ideas emerge like diamonds in a sieve, and you observe them sharp and shining where you used to see only sand.

“Good morning Nico! Sorry for calling now, but... Place d’Italie!!!!!! I discovered that there’s this square in Paris named this way because it’s the closest point in Paris to Italy!”

I say all in one breath at 6:45 on a warm morning in mid-May, with my hair dripping onto the floor. “Yes, Place d’Italie! I know it!” my partner in adventures responds... “Bingo Nico!!! We have a name!” ... “Oh yes! We do, Franca!” We hang up, and from the very next moment, all the pieces of the puzzle start automatically falling into place in our heads, as it happens every time we manage to give a name to an idea that initially exists shapeless in our episodic brainstorming, but eventually comes to fruition. It doesn’t matter where it begins and where it ends: what matters is that we have the center, we have the pivot, we have the hook.

And so, Place d’Italie was born, a name that encapsulates a world that we’ve been holding together with bare hands for months (actually years...), and when we have the chance, we try to explode, pulling in just as many enthusiasts from our industry, those who always answer the call, regardless, simply because we found each other.

Oscar Wilde said that while the English and Americans are two peoples divided by the same language, in the case of Italy and France, it could be said that they are two countries divided by their common flaws. I came across this quote in an article that discussed the relationship between Italy and France as a dichotomy that unfolds along a path forged by centuries of history, events, competition, and intense comparisons, developed on two levels:

the first being that of public relations, which is based on the most divisive and critical points that consistently drive the two countries apart, and the second level in which a “virtuous jealousy” unites them in mutual respect, admiration, and celebration. A beautiful testament to this latter aspect is the success of the latest edition of the Festival du Livre de Paris,

which last April presented Italy as the guest of honor, devoting immense space and a densely packed schedule of events with the unequivocal title ‘Italian Passions’.

It’s precisely on this second level (although outside institutional contexts that are not within our scope, but in the complete freedom to offer our free and passionate contribution) that we move, where we soar a little higher. Right there, the space opens up that Silmo Paris has decided to dedicate to Italy, welcoming our idea of Place d’Italie, opening the doors to everything that will revolve around an unmistakably tricolored relaxation area in the 2023 edition of the Parisian fair.

The “Place,” the square, as a meeting place, because we’re aware that even in the digital age of Zoom and social media, the reality of presence unites us when gazes and live smiles intersect, sealed by a firm handshake or perhaps a hug.

The Place as a place of exchange, because the diversity of opinions is the greatest treasure we have to grow as individuals before anything else.

The Place, as an open and naturally inclusive space where what we say and do is out in the open. We are still picking up the threads to weave a beautiful picture that will welcome those

who, while strolling among the Silmo stands this year, decide to pay a visit to Place d’Italie. We thank from now all those who have chosen to lend us a hand by offering their availability to animate meetings and events. We will have young people who, with great enthusiasm, guided by the perception of travel as an experience of encounter and sharing in the style of the Grand Tour popular in the eighteenth century, will gravitate to the square for intergenerational meetings and discussions on multiple levels and areas, in line with the generational theme emphasized by Silmo for the 2023 edition. We will have professionals who will share their experience and know-how with us. We will have discussions among colleagues and professionals on various topics of common interest. We will have corners of glamour and useful advices.

We are confident that we will manage to surprise you and, in turn, be surprised ourselves, because the authenticity and spontaneity of the initiative are easily understood by those who move adeptly in this “second level.” It may be more challenging for those who have forsaken the Italian practice of ideas for the logic of numbers, but we gladly leave them to the first level (the rest is silence... as my beloved Shakespeare wisely said).

From Certottica to Able - A point of reference for a constantly evolving sector

Corrado Facco told VEDERE what the Certottica Group represents today and what the strategic and operational direction for the future is.

by Isabella Morpurgo

Certottica (Italian Institute for the Certification of Optical Products) was founded in 1992 in Longarone, at the centre of the eyewear production district, on the initiative of a group of entrepreneurs supported by ANFAO (National Association of Optical Goods Manufacturers). Transformed in the meantime into the Certottica Group,consistingofCertotticaScarl,Dolomiticert Scarl, and Certdolomiti Ltd, today Certottica is a point of reference for the eyewear sector and a leader in issuing certificates of conformity for CE certification of optical products and body safety devices.

The arrival in 2021 of Corrado Facco in the role of CEO and General Manager and, six months later, of the new President Luca Businaro, has certainly given an important turning point to the Group’s evolution and activities, leading to the birth, last March of ABLE - Centro Sviluppo Competenze Belluno Dolomiti (Belluno

Dolomites Competence Development Centre), the new centre specialised in advanced corporate and intercompany training at the service of businesses, born from the integration of the competences of the Certottica Group and Confindustria Belluno Dolomiti.

Only a month earlier, during Mido, the Certottica Group had presented itself with a completely renewed image. Corrado Facco had illustrated the Group’s new brand identity, with a mission summed up in a phrase by Henry Ford: ‘Coming together is a beginning. Staying together is progress. Working together is success’. A mission referring to the value of teamwork, in which everyone must play their part well in order to achieve excellence together. Today, the company and its subsidiaries have an online and social presence that enhances these changes; changes that have led it to be a privileged hub of knowledge and technological expertise for the relevant industries.

VEDERE asked Corrado Facco, who has become the driving force and soul of the Group in recent years, what Certottica Group means in the industry today and what we should expect in the future.

V. Certottica Group is expanding its boundaries and is now also targeting other sectors. Can you tell us the details?

C.F. In recent months we have been working to consolidate our position in the market and to spread our know-how to other production sectors as well, always bearing in mind the centrality of eyewear.

To give just one example, we have launched a project with Dolomiticert to create a consortium of leading companies in the sector to recycle mountain boots by recovering the polymers and waste materials from which they are made.

We have also transferred our know-how from the eyewear sector to the textile sector, applying laboratory tests traditionally used for eyewear to articles that include the use of ‘UV-Protection’ fabrics such as hats, bandanas and clothing in general; sectors that with eyewear share the aim of protecting people from the consequences of exposure to sunlight. In this way, we place our specialised laboratories at the disposal of companies to carry out tests on UV-protection fabrics, in compliance with the regulations in force in the main global marketplaces, Europe and America in the lead,

with a specific focus on Australia. Australia is among the countries most sensitive to this problem, being the continent with the highest incidence rate of skin cancer in the world. This is the reason why it has had a very strict regulatory system in place since 1996, whereas many other nations have only recently adapted. We have, moreover, begun to develop a network of strategic relationships that will allow us to ensure added value for our organisation and identify ourselves as a benchmark for success within a fermenting industrial fabric, which represents a fundamental asset for our country’s economy.

V. With the ABLE project, you have also become a highly specialised source of updates. What led you to come up with this idea?

C.F. ABLE is a territorial – and not only - system project transversal to various production chains. It is in fact a leading high-tech competence hub for training, not only at regional level and not only in the eyewear industry. ABLE - Centro Sviluppo Competenze Belluno Dolomiti (Belluno Dolomites Skills Development Centre) - is the result of the integration of the know-how of the Certottica Training Area with that of Reviviscar, a company of Confindustria Belluno Dolomiti specialising in professional education and value-added services for companies. In this way, companies now have access to inter-company and corporate training courses, as well as tailor-made consultancy services for accessing dedicated funding, all in col-

laboration with the main University Poles and the relevant regional and national institutions. We are in a historical moment in which there is a shortage of skilled labour at a high level in comparison to the needs of the market.

Young people have radically changed their approach to work, and working in a factory is no longer seen as socially attractive. Moreover, there is often a profound mismatch between the skills possessed by young jobseekers and those required by companies. In the PNNR (the Italian National Recovery and Resilience Plan derived from the European RRF), a strong investment is planned to strengthen the ITS (Technical Institutes for Higher Education) and to offer adequate training to young people. This is to synchronise the mutual needs emerging between the new generations and businesses. It is necessary to change the perception of young people, explaining that ITS can be a valid alternative to university, bringing them closer to the culture of doing typical of Made in Italy. Being ready to enter the world of work or to re-enter it, in cases of job loss, is only possible if specific skills are improved, while remaining in line with the necessary and indispensable technological evolution. It is therefore necessary to support

the various production chains through the creation of new professional figures; otherwise, we are at great risk of deindustrialisation.

I would like to underline the radical changes in technology that are changing the paradigm of how companies are organised, with the demand for energetic reskilling and upskilling of human capital.

ABLE is an active player in the post-graduate specialisation field, through the direct management of the I.T.S. for Eyewear Product Manager, now in its tenth edition. In particular, we are very satisfied with the course registrations we have received. To date, the school is the first and only post-graduate technical institute in Italy able to guarantee specific professional training for the eyewear sector. The Institute represents one of the central pillars of our extensive training programme. In fact, our ITS aims to respond to the needs of companies, training the talents of tomorrow through a course that not only ensures adequate theoretical preparation, but also guarantees practice in the best companies in the sector, which have always been partners of excellence in this programme.

On 20 July, with pride and satisfaction, we conferred the degrees to 14 students of the ITS for

Eyewear Product Manager who completed the cycle of studies in the period 2021-2023.

V. Let’s talk about sustainability, and in particular your involvement in the CSE Awards presented and handed out during the last MIDO. Do you have other projects in this area?

C.F. CSE Award, Certified Sustainable Eyewear is the award that assesses sustainability in the eyewear sector at an international level. Recycling of materials, reduction of consumption in production and distribution processes, valorisation of the supply chain, elimination of waste, assessment of the degree of recyclability, use of renewable energies, and any certifications already held are some of the criteria used by the jury to decide the winners of the zero edition in the various categories.

The CSE award represents the concrete commitment that the Certottica Group, together with ANFAO and MIDO, is developing to arrive at a new certification system dedicated to eyewear products.

This process will enable “Made in Italy” companies - but not only - to have an international reference standard for product tracking and sustainability. In this way, the entire eyewear supply chain will be able to align itself with the best logics of certified eco-compatibility, respecting the most innovative criteria of responsibility and transparency towards consumers.

Last April, the preliminary results of the ‘Occhio al Bio!’ (Look at Bio!) project, developed by the Department of Civil, Environmental and Mechanical Engineering (DICAM) of the University of Trento in collaboration with Certottica, were also presented in Longarone. This project won the ‘Research & Development - Opportunities for Companies’ call for tenders promoted by the Cariverona Foundation in partnership with the Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Trento e Rovereto in 2020.

The project aims to identify effective methodologies for the certification and proper end-of-life management of products based on bioplastics, thus providing further incentives for companies in the sector to produce more ‘green’ product lines.

The premises that guided its birth three years ago were based on the evidence that there were still few companies in the eyewear sector interested in producing lines of articles specifically based on bioplastics. This was mainly due to the lack of regulatory references on the subject. Today, companies in the sector, ready to intercept the changes, have taken important steps forward, showing themselves to be particularly sensitive to the subject. With ‘Occhio al Bio!’ we aim to give further

support to these companies and to take another significant step towards innovation, establishing a symbology that allows the immediate recognition of a ‘bio-based’ product. At the same time, we want to identify effective methodologies for the correct end-of-life management of each product, in line with the new European environmental policies and the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. Also noteworthy is the possibility, highlighted by experts from Green Tech Italy and Innoven Srl, of starting a circular industrial chain with certain plastics and producing bioplastics from agricultural waste. In particular, such bioplastics would fully enter the list of potential new materials available to the eyewear sector.

V. What has been new in recent months?

C.F. In spring, we signed an agreement with the LVMH Group’s Institute of Trades of Excellence. This will allow some students of the ITS Eyewear Product Manager to be selected for a theoreticalpractical training course within the famous Maisons of the LVMH Group active in eyewear. The partnership will be active for at least the entire two-year period 2023/2025, involving a variable number of resources (up to a maximum of 5), chosen on the basis of their actual potential and aptitude with reference to the criteria of savoir-faire and savoir être required by the LVMH Group. In addition to attending ITS classes in the classroom at the International Polytechnic of Eyewear, selected students will be able to carry out the practical training (300 hours in the first year and 500 hours in the second year), envisaged in their study plan, at the Maisons Thélios and Louis Vuitton, both partners in the programme. They will also have access to Masterclasses directly managed by the LVMH Institute of Trades of Excellence with educational visits and targeted meetings on common themes and/or related to the Luxury universe. Lastly, at the end of the two-year course, there will be the possibility of obtaining the qualification of Advanced Technician qualification - Level 5 EQF (European Qualification Framework) and, for those who have distinguished themselves, also the Certificate of Excellence issued by the LVMH Institute of Trades of Excellence itself, as a further qualification of merit for the job market.

Moreover, last but not least, it should be mentioned that, for the third year running, a student from the ITS for Eyewear Product Manager in Longarone, Elisa Maestrelli, has been chosen to participate as a finalist in the prestigious International Lab of Mittelmoda Fashion Award competition, an event that attracts emerging stylists and fashion designers from the world’s best schools and will be awarded on 19 September in Milan.

CUSTOM-MADE MEDICAL DEVICES: DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE MANUFACTURER AND WHO ADAPTS A MEDICAL DEVICE

Until before the entry into force of the Medical Device Regulation (EU) 2017/745 (MDR), opticians have always been regarded, at least in Italy, as manufacturers of custom-made devices. In fact, prescription spectacles have always been considered a device to be manufactured on the basis of a written prescription from a qualified doctor indicating its design characteristics, and intended to be used only for a specific patient.

Although the definition of a custom-made medical device has not substantially changed following the entry into force of the Regulation, the publication of the MDCG 2021-3 Questions and Answers on Custom-Made Devices (March 2021) guideline may have paved the way for a significant change in the

eyewear industry with regard to the manufacture of prescription spectacles.

The Medical Device Coordination Group document introduces the concept of an adaptable medical device and a new player, the person who adapts a medical device, i.e. the healthcare professional who assembles, forms and adapts an adaptable device for a particular patient.

According to the guideline, an adaptable medical device is defined as a mass-produced device that has to be adapted, adjusted, assembled or shaped, usually by a healthcare professional, at the point of care in accordance with the manufacturer’s validated instructions, to suit an individual patient’s specific anatomo-physiologic features prior to use.

Clariscience, as an independent and highly specialized consultancy agency, offers a panel of integrated services designed to help its customers from the medical device and IVD sector, in achieving and maintaining regulatory and quality compliance and succeeding on the market through a clear and inspiring scientific communication.

Among examples of mass-produced adaptable medical devices, the guideline mentions spectacles . Although the situation has yet to be officially defined, this possible change of scenario makes it worthwhile to investigate what the differences are between the role of the manufacturer of custom-made devices and that of the person who adapts medical devices, as well as what regulatory obligations have to be fulfilled and what tasks fall to each.

The obligations of a manufacturer of custom-made devices as set out in Regulation (EU) 2017/745 are as follows. Manufacturers of custom-made devices shall:

Draw up, keep up to date and keep available specific technical documentation for competent authorities.

• Draw up the appropriate declaration required by the Regulation.

• Properly label the device and provide it with instructions for use, conveying all relevant safety and performance information to users.

• Establish all conditions for the correct use, maintenance, storage and transport of the device.

• Establish, document, implement and maintain a risk management system.

• Track the device as prescribed by the UDI system.

• Register as a manufacturer of custom-made devices and register the device in the European database EUDAMED.

• Register in the Database of Manufacturers of Custom-made Medical Devices of the Italian Ministry of Health and enter the list of devices (It.

Legislative Decree of 5 August 2022, no. 137 - art. 7).

• Carry out a clinical evaluation and have a PostMarket Clinical Follow-Up (PMCF) system in place.

• Have a quality management system (QMS) in place to ensure that the device complies with the Regulation.

• Have implemented sufficient financial coverage measures to meet claims for damage caused by the device (Product Liability pursuant to Directive 85/374/EEC).

• Have (at least) one person responsible for regulatory compliance.

• Have a post-market surveillance system (PMS) in place.

• Having defined a vigilance system.

Let us now look at the responsibilities of who adapts a medical device. It should be noted that that - unlike the

manufacturer of custom-made devices - Regulation (EU) 2017/745 does not list it as an economic operator and does not mention it at all.

Since the Regulation does not set forth explicit obligations, it is assumed that who adapts a medical device is also a distributor of medical devices (as is any optician who sells frames, contact lenses, accessories, etc.) and, therefore, that the obligations that follow apply to all devices the optician makes available.

• Check that the device has been CE marked.

• Check that the medical device is accompanied by the information to be supplied by the manufacturer.

• Check that the declaration of conformity has been drawn up.

• Check (for imported devices) that the importer has identified themselves in the labelling.

• Ensure that the storage/transport conditions comply with the conditions set by the manufacturer.

• Send to the manufacturer and other economic operators (distributors, importers, authorised representatives) all safety and performance information relating to the medical devices.

• Check that the manufacturer has assigned a Unique Device Identifier (UDI) to the medical device.

• Ensure an appropriate level of traceability of the medical devices (for 10 years in the case of lenses and frames).

• Avoid making the device available if it is believed to be not in conformity with the MDR requirements. Keep a register of complaints, non-conforming devices, recalls and withdrawals.

• Inform the competent authority if it is believed that the medical device presents a serious risk or is falsified.

• Cooperate with the manufacturer, economic operators and competent authorities to ensure that the necessary corrective actions are taken. In the event of a serious risk, provide the competent authority with precise information on noncompliance and corrective actions taken.

• Provide the information and documentation available to demonstrate conformity of a medical device at the request of a competent authority.

• At the request of a competent authority, provide samples of the device free of charge.

One can easily see how the obligations and responsibilities of the manufacturer of custom-made devices are significantly more burdensome than those of who adapts a medical device.

In summary, while who adapts a medical device has to fulfil product verification and post-market surveillance obligations only, the manufacturer of custom-made devices - similarly to the manufacturer of medical devices - is required to draw up, update and maintain specific technical documentation, to manage risk appropriately, to carry out a clinical evaluation, to register the device in national and EU databases, to take out insurance coverage, as well as to operate according to a documented QMS, as well as to appoint a person responsible for regulatory compliance.

Summarizing, the position of the optician with regard to the manufacture of prescription spectacles has still not been clearly and officially defined by the competent authorities.

The obligations and responsibilities of the optician, at the light of the Regulation (EU) 2017/745, might therefore undergo significant changes in relation to future, and much awaited, EU and/or national provisions.

MEDICAL DEVICE

REGULATION (EU) 2017/745 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 5 April 2017 on medical devices, amending Directive 2001/83/EC, Regulation (EC) No 178/2002 and Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and repealing Council Directives 90/385/EEC and 93/42/EEC (Text with EEA relevance) THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND THE COUNCIL OF THE EUROPEAN UNION, Having regard to the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union, and in particular Article 114 and Article 168(4)(c) thereof, Having regard to the proposal from the European Commission, After transmission of the draft legislative act to the national parliaments, Having regard to the opinion of the European Economic and Social Committee (1), After consulting the Committee of the Regions, Acting in accordance with the ordinary legislative procedure (2), Whereas: (1) Council Directive 90/385/EEC (3) and Council Directive 93/42/EEC (4) constitute the Union regulatory framework for medical devices, other than in vitro diagnostic medical devices. However, a fundamental revision of those Directives is needed to establish a robust, transparent, predictable and sustainable regulatory framework for medical devices which ensures a high level of safety and health whilst supporting innovation. (2) This Regulation aims to ensure the smooth functioning of the internal market as regards medical devices, taking as a base a high level of protection of health for patients and users, and taking into account the small- and medium-sized enterprises that are active in this sector. At the same time, this Regulation sets high standards of quality and safety for medical devices in order to meet common safety concerns as regards such products. Both objectives are being pursued simultaneously and are inseparably linked whilst one not being secondary to the other. As regards Article 114 of the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union (TFEU), this Regulation harmonises the rules for the placing on the market and putting into service of medical devices and their accessories on the Union market thus allowing them to benefit from the principle of free movement of goods. As regards Article 168(4)(c) TFEU, this Regulation sets high standards of quality and safety for medical devices by ensuring, among other things, that data generated in clinical investigations are reliable and robust and that the safety of the subjects participating in a clinical investigation is protected. (3) This Regulation does not seek to harmonise rules relating to the further making available on the market of medical devices after they have already been put into service such as in the context of second-hand sales. (4) Key elements of the existing regulatory approach, such as the supervision of notified bodies, conformity assessment procedures, clinical investigations and clinical evaluation, vigilance and market surveillance should be significantly reinforced, whilst provisions ensuring transparency and traceability regarding medical devices should be introduced, to improve health in particular in the context of the Global Harmonization Task Force (GHTF) and its follow-up initiative, the International Medical Devices Regulators Forum (IMDRF), should be taken into account to promote the global convergence of regulations which contributes to a high level of safety protection worldwide, and to facilitate trade, in particular in the provisions on Unique Device Identification, general safety and performance procedures and clinical investigations. (6) For historical reasons, active implantable medical devices, covered by Directive 90/385/EEC, and other medical devices, simplification, by a single legislative act applicable to all medical devices other than in vitro diagnostic medical devices. (7) The scope of application of this Regulation should be clearly delimited from other Union harmonisation legislation concerning products, such as in vitro diagnostic medical devices, medicinal products, cosmetics and food. Therefore, Regulation (EC) No 178/2002 of the European Parliament and of the Council (5) should be amended to exclude medical devices from its scope. (8) It should be the responsibility of the Member States to decide on a case-by-case basis whether or not a product falls within the scope of this Regulation. In order to ensure consistent qualification decisions in that regard across all Member States, particularly with regard to borderline cases, the Commission should be allowed to, on its own initiative or at the duly substantiated request of a Member State, having consulted the Medical Device Coordination Group (‘MDCG’), decide on a case-by-case basis

Are you a manufacturer or a distributor of the eyewear sector?

FEBRUARY 3-5, 2024

Fiera Milano, Rho

The eyewear universe.

The Philipp Plein Group and De Rigo have signed a licensing agreement for the design, production and global distribution of PLEIN SPORT branded sunglasses and optical eyewear. “We are very happy to extend our partnership with the Philipp Plein Group. Plein Sport is a luxury, innovative and new generation activewear brand, which represents a great opportunity to strengthen the men’s segment in our portfolio. This new licensing agreement is particularly pleasing to us and confirms the remarkable success we are achieving together with Philipp Plein and the relationship of mutual trust we are building,” Michele Aracri, CEO of De Rigo Vision.

EssilorLuxottica and Eastman Kodak Company signed a perpetual worldwide license agreement granting EssilorLuxottica the exclusive right to use the Kodak registered trademarks for products and services in connection with EssilorLuxottica’s business. Effective January 1, 2024, EssilorLuxottica will permanently add one of the world’s most well-known and trusted brands to its portfolio and will further develop the Kodak brand in the full range of EssilorLuxottica product categories. This new commitment represents an evolution of the multi-year licensing agreement with Kodak currently in place.

Design Eyewear Group inaugurated DEGree, their very first flagship shop near their Parisian office. An invitation to discover the immersive universe of the nine iconic brands of the group (Face A Face, Prodesign, Woow and more) through their wide sun collections. A showroom space in the shop is dedicated to optician customers wishing to discover the collections, deepen their knowledge of the brands or simply discuss with DEG staff. “We have long been looking for a suitable space to create continuity between our offices and the exhibition area,” said CEO Lars Flyvhom, “and we are thrilled to be able to welcome our customers to this immersive venue where we will also organise events and presentations.

Hoya has launched a sustainability program called ‘One Vision’. Embedded in its corporate strategy, it is designed around the company’s ambition to become a more connected, conscious, and impactful organization, focused on a better tomorrow. The purpose driven program based on three pillars (Environment, Community and Workplace) has been successfully running internally for more than a year. “As a global business, we have a clear responsibility to focus on climate change, work with and give back to the communities where we operate including reducing the vision health gap and to build a strong, highly trained workforce filled with career opportunities to ensure a robust future”, said Alexandre Montague, CEO of HOYA Vision Care.

Kering Eyewear, owner of the Maui Jim brand, has decided to support the Hawaiian island of Maui after the devastating fires that hit the town of Lahaina (home of the Maui Jim offices and shop) with a donation to the Hawaii Community Foundation’sMaui Strong Fund.

This contribution will be used to assist those affected by this disaster and to support rebuilding efforts after the fires.

Roberto Vedovotto, President and CEO of Kering Eyewear, said: “We are devastated to see the destruction in Lahaina, our home in Maui, and we want to stand by all those tragically affected by the fires, to provide support and resources to those in need”.

IACLE has announced the winners of the 2023 IACLE Contact Lens Educator of the Year Awards to recognize and reward achievement in contact lens education.

The winners are Dr Myriam Teresa Mayorga, La Salle University, Bogotá, Colombia - Isha Dave - Lotus College of Optometry, Mumbai, India and Dr May Bakkar - Jordan University of Science and Technology, Ar-Ramtha, Jordan.

Thanks to the generous sponsorship from CooperVision, and co-sponsorship from the British Contact Lens Association (BCLA), the Award winners attended the BCLA’s Clinical Conference & Exhibition (9-11 June) and received their awards during the Gala Dinner at IACLE’s 4th World Congress on Contact Lens Education (7 June).

Dr May Bakkar receives the Award

Web Eyewear has announced the release of its new ADV campaign for the F/W 2023-24 season, created with Art Direction by award-winning Creative Bureau BRVTO and shot by Nicolas Kern in the architectural gem designed by Carlo Scarpa: the Olivetti Showroom in Venice. The campaign unveils the new eyewear collection in which the traits of transparency and contemporary design, the brand’s fundamental aesthetic principles, emerge. Web Eyewear and Scarpa share a special pioneering spirit in which the harmonious coexistence of style and comfort stands out.

MOREL announced a new exclusive distribution agreement, in collaboration with Neonsun Oy, under the name MOREL Finland. Neonsun Oy brings over 20 years of independent expertise in the Finnish market. It will be represented by Arja Karjalainen and located at: Puusepänkatu 5, 13110 Hämeenlinna.

VANNI presented its new advertising campaign and revamped website. Turin is the brand’s home and the city of Italy’s longest river. This is why they chose the great river Po - which flows from the north-western Italian Alps to Venice - as the background for their latest shoot. The shots were taken at the Esperia club, one of the most prestigious historical rowing clubs. The new campaign is launched on a completely redesigned website: the restyling aims to make the glasses more visible and appealing, both for B2B partners and the end consumer. To underline the transformation into a ‘Benefit Society’, Vanni has dedicated a section of the site to the new status, highlighting the principles that guide its actions: responsibility, transparency, sharing and sustainability.

MODO has acquired the Italia Independent brand founded in 2006 by Lapo Elkann. The transaction includes the brand and not the homonymous company. The know-how of the Modo Group, a subsidiary of the M Group with offices in New York, Milan and Stockholm, which produces and distributes the MODO and ECO brands, will be decisive for the brand’s new course, which can count on a solid corporate organisation and a more incisive presence in terms of international distribution. “I have always admired the incredible success of Italia Independent since its beginnings, we are proud to take over its future and to have the opportunity to significantly contribute to the development of the brand,” said Alessandro Lanaro, founder and CEO of MODO GROUP.

Marcolin and MCM, the German luxury fashion house, announced an exclusive license agreement for the design, production and worldwide distribution of MCM Eyewear until December 31, 2028. Born from the innovative and rule-breaking ambiance of 1970s Munich, emerging as a refreshing alternative to conventional luxury, MCM encapsulated the essence of “L’enfant terrible”. Independently designing premium accessories for the audacious jet-set of the era, the brand swiftly gained global acclaim. The first MCM sunglasses and optical collection produced by Marcolin will be available starting from January 2024.

MYKITA is in the finale of “And Just Like That...” with their custom eyewear piece STUDIO 12.5 made for the iconic character “Carrie” worn by real-life NYC style maven Sarah Jessica Parker.

Vintage glam with a futuristic spin – this striking, contemporary interpretation of the aviator shape answers the creative brief referencing 1920s Hollywood. Additional MYKITA styles that appear in the show, include optical models LITE models LIVA, BJELLE and EERO.

Left: Giovanni Lo Faro - CEO of Modo International

Right: Alessandro Lanaro - founder and CEO of MODO Group

The partnership between Safilo and Juicy Couture continues with the renewal, until December 31, 2027, of the global licensing agreement. Safilo also renewed the license with Alpargatas - Brazil’s leading footwear, apparel and accessories group - for the design, production and distribution of Havaianas branded optical frames and sunglasses until December 31, 2028. Finally, Safilo also announced the extension until the end of 2028 of its agreement with Fossil - a leading global lifestyle accessories company specialising in high-quality leather goods, jewellery and watches.

Thélios announced the acquisition from investment fund NEO Investment Partners of Vuarnet, the iconic French high-end outdoor eyewear brand with over 60 years of tradition and a pioneer in the production of mineral lenses. This is the first acquisition of a brand by Thélios, a sign that the eyewear “branch” of the LVMH Group intends to further expand its presence in luxury eyewear through proprietary brands.

Vuarnet is one of the few companies in the sector to produce its lenses entirely in mineral materials. Its production plant in Meaux, east of Paris, has been certified by the French government as an ‘Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant’.

Visottica Group, Veneto-based company and world leader in the production of eyewear components, closed its 2022 consolidated financial statements with a turnover of 98 million Euro, a 14% increase compared to the 86 million of 2021. The figure benefits from the revenues of the company Ethos, which was consolidated last year, and does not include the turnover of Ideal, acquired in 2023.The result confirms the boost to growth that has characterised the Group, headquartered in Susegana (TV), over the last few years. Thanks to a policy of targeted acquisitions of technologically complementary companies, accompanied by organic business development, the revenues of Visottica have grown by more than 50% compared to 2019, when it reported a turnover of €64 million.

Havaianas

Vincent Cassel wearing Vuarnet (Getty Images)

DaTE 2023

Last 9 and 10 September, with an unprecedented two-day version (Saturday and Sunday), DaTE in Florence was the industry’s first meeting place in Italy after the summer break.

For 11 editions a showcase of contemporary and avant-garde eyewear design, in recent years this event has also enjoyed the special stage offered by the Leopolda in Florence, which this year saw a new setting for the exhibition space, enriched by visuals taken from the communication campaign, centred on faces and eyes, and scenic elements, in contrast with the austerity of the location, that transported the visitor to a carefree, colourful and experimental world.

There were many interesting trends to be seen among the stands: gender-free models, sustainable products made of organic acetates or recycled carbon, exclusive materials such as Indian buffalo horn or combinations of precious woods and gold with acetate, but also recycled objects, vintage shapes inspired by the great classics of the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, entirely handmade and tailor-made products but also 3D-printed.

The official closing figures for the event speak of around 1,000 high-profile professionals and buyers from the sector, mainly from Italy but some also from countries as far afield as Chile, India, the United States, Taiwan and Israel.

“The formula we chose, two days instead of three, proved effective: it allowed exhibitors to concentrate their efforts and optimise their time and investment,” commented Giovanni Vitaloni, President of DaTE. This confirms that, beyond the format and duration, DaTE is an eagerly awaited appointment and a useful tool for operators to launch their new collections in September, i.e. at the beginning of the new season.”

The formula of this event, unprecedented 11 years ago, will certainly see an evolution in the years to come and the organisers confirm that they are already at work to enrich its identity as an incubator of new ideas.

Vintage inspirations, limited editions, bio-based products and lots of colour

BOLD Optical Fair

XXL edition: bigger than ever before...

The September edition of Bold Optical Fair, the event that covers the optical market for the Netherlands (and neighbouring regions such as Flanders and North Rhine Westphalia), turned out to be, as the organizers said, the “hottest show of the year”. Not only because of the exceptionally warm weather, but much more because of the 411 brands that presented their latest designs, products and services. The industrial backdrop of an old (and massive) train factory, created the perfect contrast between design, fashion and architecture. This historical stage welcomed approximately 2.750 eyecare professionals, mostly from The Netherlands, Germany and Belgium, but even from countries outside of Europe, like the United States.

The unexpected hot weather, which is unusual for September in The Netherlands, created

considerable challenges for the organizers, who had to arrange additional ventilation and cold air supply for both exhibitors and visitors. Due to the considerably larger last-minute influx of visitors (1000 more than expected), their shuttle buses had difficulty keeping up with the peaks in demand, which led to sometimes considerable waiting times.

“We would like to thank our visitors super who, despite the very warm weather, have taken the trouble to visit us en masse,” remarked the organization of Bold Optical Fair. “It was an overwhelming success and in two days we received more than 2750 visitors. We and our participants feel very honored that you have visited Bold XXL.”

The next edition of Bold will take place on 28 & 29 January 2024 in the Werkspoor Cathedral in Utrecht and is already promising to be “The Coolest place to be in optical!”

Expo Ottica Sud:

Asso Fiere Sicilia reconfirms the “PalaLumbi” Centre in Taormina, for the eighth edition of Expo Ottica Sud. With an exhibition area of over 4000 square metres, the exhibition centre will once again host the much-awaited event dedicated to Professionals in the Optics and Optometry Sector from Sicily, Calabria and Malta and, more generally, from all of Southern Italy.

This important appointment will allow guests to view the latest innovations and novelties proposed by the market, meeting their reference companies while optimising their time, in a totally favourable context. But that’s not all: thanks to the enchanting location by the sea, the beautiful landscape, and the vast historical, cultural and archaeological heritage of which Taormina is rich, participants will be able to enjoy an “Outside EOS” full of emotions and moments of pleasant relaxation. There are many important production areas present at EOS: from eyeglass frames, children’s frames, sunglasses, sports glasses, cases and accessories for glasses, to optical and ophthalmic lenses, contact lenses, accessories and liquids for lenses,

lenses and sunglasses. From optometry and ophthalmology instruments, to equipment and tools for optical shops and laboratories, furniture and furnishings for shops and laboratories, spectacle components and small parts, special treatments, computer systems for optics; not forgetting the presence of the specialised technical and scientific press.

A rich programme of scientific conferences and company presentations will also enrich the days of the event, ensuring that, once again, Expo Ottica Sud is confirmed as the first, largest and most comprehensive optical event in southern Italy.

Free entrance reserved exclusively for operators of the optical sector.

Opening hours: Saturday 21 October, 12.00/18.00 - Sunday 22 October, 10.00/18.00 - Monday 23 October, 10.00/16.00.

From the Exhibition Centre it will be possible to reach the town centre of Taormina by free shuttle bus in about 5 minutes.

EXPO OTTICA SUD 2023 - PalaLumbi CentreTaormina

Kicking off, once again in the splendid setting of Taormina, the 8th edition of the event. From Saturday 21 to Monday 23 October 2023.

“Hello Athens, hello future”!

CircumEye#5 returns in new edition with a new venue, a new image and a new message

“Hello Athens, hello future,” says CircumEye#5 with its brand-new slogan and visual appearance, which has been completely redesigned for the expo’s debut at its new location. Without change there is no innovation, creativity or incentive for improvement. The new content, visuals and communication reflect the move, and combine the familiar and traditional trade fair with the fresh direction taken by the leading Greek eyewear business show in its new home on the Zappeion Megaron, the historical Conference & Exhibition Center in the heart of Athens. With new concept that goes far beyond a classic trade show, CircumEye inspires, designs, guides and interconnects the eyewear and future eyewear industry in Greece and East Mediterranean –inviting, engaging, and trendsetting.

Zappeion Megaron is one of the most emblematic Monuments of Greece, distinguished for its prominent architecture, and offers the ideal conditions for conferences, cultural, scientific and sports exhibitions. Close to the city’s most important archaeological sites, south of the National Garden and west of the Panathenaic Stadium, the venue offers easy access, in a pleasant yet personal environment, where contact between the various players in the optical world will be comfortable and convenient, facilitating the activities of participants, whether they are regulars or new to the CircumEye#5 experience.

CircumEye#5 2023 will take place in Athens, at The Athens Optical Exhibition - Zappeion Megaron, Athens City Center, on 18 and 19 November 2023.

The Hong Kong International Optical Fair returns

Global Perspectives in the Optical Industry

& EVENTS

With crystal-clear perspectives, the HKTDC Hong Kong International Optical Fair will resume its full scale this year from 8 to 10 November 2023 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre with visionary style and expertise. The 2019 event attracted more than 14,000 buyers from 96 countries and regions as they engaged with 810 exhibitors. Continuing a rich tradition of success, the Fair promises to be the source of spectacular vision in the world of optometry.

Visionary Events

Beyond trade and sourcing opportunities, the Fair is also a hub of expertise with the Hong Kong International Optometric Symposium and a line-up of seminars that reveal the latest global trends. Exhibitors can also enjoy increased media exposure through the pre-fair press conference and other networking events.

Brand Focus

Brand Name Gallery is a specialist platform for branded eyewear with some 230 premier brands featured in 2019.

Thematic Highlights For 2023

• Kid’s Angle

• Smart Glasses

• Sustainable Eyewear

• Customized Eyewear

Major Exhibit Categories:

• Contact Lenses & Accessories

• Diagnostic Instruments

• Eco Vision

• Eyewear Accessories

• Frames, Lenses and Parts

• IT Solutions

• Kids Eyewear & Accessories

• Optometric Instruments

• Equipment & Machinery

• Reading Glasses

• Shop Fittings & Equipment

• Smart Eyewear

• Sporting & Professional Eyewear

• Trade Services

“EXHIBITION+” Opens Up a New World

The HKTDC introduces “EXHIBITION+”, a brandnew exhibition model integrating online and offline trade show formats, extending faceto-face interactions of physical exhibitions to smart business matching platform to help you connect business partners proactively.

1. Physical Exhibition – to provide face-to-face connection and business encounter through physical participation - 8-10 November 2023Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

2. Click2Match – 1-17 November 2023 - an exceptional online business matching platform for exhibitors and buyers to identify potential business partners and schedule online meetings.

3. hktdc.com Sourcing – 2 months online exposure on hktdc.com Sourcing with 3GB media storage space to present your company, product photos and videos.

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The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear Vedere International nr. 4 / 2023