Portugal Rocks Rileys A Bunch From The World
The Freedom Issue ‹ JulY 2016 ›
Jared Houston Faroe Islands
Azores Islands. | Photo: Hélio António
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A liberdade sรณ existe quando todos os nossos actos concordam com todo o nosso pensamento.
A g o s t i n h o S i lva
F r e e d o m o n ly e x i s t s when all our actions agree with all our thinking.
----Ricardo Miguel Vieira [Txt] -----
Na entrevista que nos concedeu para esta edição digital, Jared Houston fez uma confissão curiosa sobre o futuro do bodyboard: “Talvez se mantenha assim como está para sempre”. É uma afirmação que rompe com o discurso maquilhado e inócuo que, por norma, nos é apresentado pelos bodyboarders profissionais. Impressiona, portanto, pela franqueza, embora seja a constatação do óbvio que é o atual status quo do microcosmo bodyboarder: do tour à indústria, a engrenagem está em ponto morto há vários anos. Porém, não será por aí, como sublinha o sul-africano, campeão do mundo, que o bodyboard está em risco, porque “enquanto houver pessoas apaixonadas, ele não morrerá.” Os bodyboarders são uma comunidade especial e se há demonstração ardente que nos distingue dos demais essa será, com certeza, o modo livre e descomprometido como encaramos e vivemos o bodyboard. Na sombra de espectáculos mediáticos e de artifícios comerciais desprovidos da verdadeira essência surfer (porque todos o somos), o universo boogie gira em torno das ondas, da amizade e da exploração de territórios nunca antes palmilhados. Por isso, até se pode olhar para o (re)surgimento do Bunker, em anos recentes, como uma brilhante revolução independente do espírito bodyboarder. A malta portuguesa, exemplar pelo fervor bodyboarder que demonstra diariamente, afastou-se de areais minados por interesses obscuros e fez-se à estrada à procura de novos poisos em dias que o Atlântico dispara balas de elevado calibre rumo ao continente. Amplo exercício de liberdade, esse que ainda vamos vivendo neste nosso restrito (mas aberto!) grupo. Celebremos nas próximas páginas o privilégio dessa condição.
sCRAP BOOK
----Ricardo Faustino [Photo] -----
----Cover | Jared Houston > Chris Gurney [Photo] -----
In the interview granted for this digital issue, Jared Houston made a curious observation about bodyboarding’s future: “Maybe it just stays the same forever”. It’s a statement that shatters the usually innocuous and repetitive discourse among professional riders. Moreover, it awes for its honesty, although it’s an obvious assessment about the current status quo of bodyboarding’s microcosm: from the tour to the industry, the scene has been cruising in low gears for quite a while. However - and here lays the main argument - the South African and current World Champion underlines that this doesn’t leave bodyboarding near extinction, because “ bodyboarding is not going to die until everyone stops liking it and I just don’t see that happening, ever”. Bodyboarders around the world form a unique and special community and if there’s a fervent representation that distinguishes us, that has to be the uncompromissed, unbounded way we live the boogie life. Hidden in the shadows of the media biz and the commercial artifices that strip surfing’s essence, the bodyboarding universe purely revolves on waves, friendship and roaming through unknown destinations. Hence, here in Portugal we look at Bunker’s (re)emergence in recent years as a brilliantly orchestrated independent revolution of the bodyboarder’s spirit. Meaning that nowadays, when the Atlantic pushes some heavy bowls towards the continent, the Portuguese riders move aside from the regions swarmed by obscured interests and crowds and hit the road searching for some inconspicuous and pumping spots. Thus, Bunker, one of those novelty breaks, represents the true freedom of the bodyboarder soul. And freedom, a condition that seem more like a priviledge in current times, is what we celebrate along these pages.
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Ainda que nem sempre reúna consensos entre os pares, é inegável a influência de Tó Cardoso no progresso da nova geração. O mergulho num abismo do Oeste que aqui revemos é postal da performance ascendente que tem marcado o trajeto do jovem nazareno.
A / tocardoso_Hélio António [Photo]
Although not always a consensual figure among his peers, Tó Cardoso’s influence on the younger generation’s progress is undeniable. This dip into a Western Portuguese abyss is a postcard of the ascending performances of the Nazaré native.
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Do outro lado do globo, uma visão de sonho algures nas Filipinas que invoca a experiência da viagem em busca da onda perfeita. Epílogo para uma edição que nos transporta numa aventura por territórios isolados e menos óbvios no atlas do bodyboarder. From the other tip of the globe emerges a dreamy point-of-view from Filipinas reminding us of the endless search for the perfect wave. An epilogue for this edition’s story on an adventure through an isolated and less obvious destination in a bodyboarder’s travel guide. B / filipinas_Diogo Sousa [Photo]
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A atração dos bodyboarders portugueses pela Cave tem crescido nos últimos anos como uma espécie de sintoma coletivo de “quanto mais pesado e aterrador, melhor.” Pedro Levi a rasgar uma bolha centrifugadora da Ericeira e a marcar o ritmo na exploração de ondas de consequência. Portuguese bodyboarders attraction for Cave has been soaring throughout the years. It almost feels like the community contrived a collective symptom of “the heaviest, the better”. Here is Pedro Levi bursting through a foamy bubble on Portugal’s heaviest and scariest breakpoint. C / Pedro Levi, Cave_ Hélio António [Photo]
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Os Açores é um harém de picos pesados e perfeitos que quebram sobre águas amenas. A comunidade local é unida e percorre as ilhas de norte a sul atrás das melhores ondulações que quebram em redor do arquipélago. Numa abordagem diferente do habitual, Ricardo ‘Caveira’ Ferreira solta um impressionante leque enquanto explora outras formas de usufruir da liberdade bodyboarder. Azores shelters heavy and perfect waves in warm waters. The local community is tightly united and often scraps the best out of each session wherever the tide decides to break in the Archipelago. In a different perspective from our latest feature photographs from the islands, Ricardo ‘Caveira’ Ferreira drawing a perfect salty canvas. D / 'Caveira'_Ricardo Amaral [Photo]
Os adjetivos para descrever o Bunker são cada vez mais escassos. Momento para refletir sobre a o significado desta esquerda plantada a Oeste no atual contexto do bodyboard português. Há umas ideias soltas sobre o tema no editoral desta edição. Adjectives to describe Bunker are scarcer than ever. Time for us to reflect on the meanings of this Western lefty in nowadays Portuguese bodyboarding scene. Our two cents on the subject are in the issue’s editorial letter. D / Vasco Côrte-Real [Photo]
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Bernardo Jerónimo é um dos riders portugueses mais dedicados à verdadeira experiência bodyboarder. Audaz e motivado, é um espírito rebelde que hoje anda à solta pelos férteis litorais da Oceânia. Pela lente de João Serpa, memória de um inverno ainda na costa portuguesa. Bernardo Jerónimo is the personification of the rider that lives and breathes the essence of the bodyboarding experience. Audacious and motivated, he’s a wild soul currently roaming through Australia’s pumping shores. A tribute moment captured by João Serpa during a Portuguese winter. E / Bernardo Jerónimo_João Serpa [Photo]
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Family, bodyboarding and the most wanted title. Jared Houston in his own words on the most remarkable year of his life. Interview Ricardo Miguel Vieira All photos Chris Gurney
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São poucos neste mundo, os que podem dizer que atingiram um dos seus maiores sonhos de vida com a tenra idade de 26 anos. Jared Houston, porém, é membro desse restrito clube depois de ter conquistado o mais importante objetivo da sua carreira: o título mundial de bodyboard. Naquele 9 de Novembro, o sul-africano competiu, em certa medida, em casa. Rodeado pelos seus novos amigos porto-riquenhos, que o acompanharam durante os três dias de competição do Encanto Pro 2015, a energia na praia de Middles era de uma misticidade latina, o que terá influenciado o universo a guiar o jovem saffa pela sombra. Derrotado na Ronda 6 do último evento do ano, Houston passou a depender de Pierre-Louis Costes para conquistar o título. O francês não podia vencer a etapa para que o sulafricano terminasse o ano no lugar maior do pódio. Num final de tarde absolutamente eletrizante, PLC acelerou até à final apenas para ficar pelo caminho na derradeira volta – algo que simplesmente não lhe acontece. Houston quebrou em lágrimas ao som da buzina. Terminara ali a sua perseguição de quase uma década pelo primeiro título mundial. Meio ano depois desse intenso evento, o saffa sentou-se no seu escritório em Islote, norte de Porto Rico, às cinco da madrugada e recordou à Vert, via Skype, memórias dessa travessia até ao topo do mundo e perspetivou o futuro enquanto bodyboarder profissional.
“During my whole competitive career, I’ve always struggled to find myself. I was surfing against my nature”
There aren’t many people in this world that can say they’ve achieved their lifelong dream at the young age of 26. Jared Houston, however, is among this restrict club after conquering the most sought out goal of his career: the world title of bodyboarding. On that November 9th, the South African was, in a way, playing at home. Surrounded by his new Puerto Rican friends at the 2015 Encanto Pro, the energy at Middles’ beach was mystical and surely conjured the universe to look after Jared. After being knocked out on Round 6 of the tour’s final event, the saffa depended on his competitive nemesis Pierre-Louis Costes’ result to win the title. If the Frenchman achieved the first place at the championship, Houston would end the year empty handed. On an electrifying afternoon, PLC zoomed to the last stage only to be defeat at the final lap - which is something that simply doesn’t happen to him. Houston broke in tears at the sound of the buzz horn as the decade long chase for his first world title was finally over. Half a year later, sitting at his office in Islote, Puerto Rico’s northern coast, at 5am in the morning, Jared Houston talked to Vert via Skype about the memories of his glorious year and how his highest career achievement informs his future as a professional bodyboarder.
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T h e fi r s t i d e a p e o p l e f o r m i n t h e i r m i n d s i s t h a t w i n n i n g t h e W o r l d T it l e t u r n s o n e ’ s l if e c o m p l e t e l y u p s i d e d o w n . Lik e e v e r yt h i n g b e c o m e s e s s e n ti a l l y d iff e r e n t f o r y e a r s t o c o m e . I s t h i s r e a l l y t r u e ?
That’s something I’ve been laughing about with Natasha [Sagardia, Houston’s wife]. I always had that same perception: if I were to win a World Title, a hole would open in the ground and I’d fall into it, like eternal bliss. That is far from the truth. I won the World Title, it’s an achievement I’ll carry with me for life. But still I wake up everyday being Poeiti’s father and Natasha’s husband and having to cut the grass. Life just keeps going, it has a way of keeping you humble, active and moving forward. It just gave me a boost to keep pushing myself to improve, work towards the next level and run for the title again. I feel the most motivated ever. It’s not my nature to just think I’m the World Champion and that I have nothing else to prove. I want to go big, I want to make noise, to keep up. The World Title just enriched my life because now I’m able to say I’ve achieved a lifelong goal.
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“I won the World Title, it’s an achievement I’ll carry with me for life. But still I wake up everyday being Poeiti’s father and Natasha’s husband and having to cut the grass”
D u r i n g d o e s i n t e n s e fi n a l r o u n d s o f t h e E n c a n t o P r o , d i d it c r o s s y o u r m i n d t h a t y o u c o u l d l o s e t h e W o r l d T it l e ?
Definitely. Those 24 hours were a rollercoaster of emotions. When I was eliminated [on Round 6], I immediately felt that I’d lost the title, that it was over. I remember leaving the beach extremely upset and not wanting to talk or see anyone. I just went to my car and started driving back home. But suddenly I got a text message. I stopped the car, looked at the phone and it was from Dave [Hubbard]: ‘Really sorry about the result, bro, but you have to understand you might be the best in the world right now. But whether or not you’re the champion will be decided on how you face the coming hours and days.’ That stopped me right there and made me focus my positive energy on that title. So I went back to the beach to be a part of it, no matter the outcome. I really feel that positivity comes through life and watching Pierre[-Louis Costes] making heat after heat all the way to the final only to not win it was unbelievable. At the same time, I felt a lot of peace knowing that if he were to win the World Title, it would be fine, he deserved it too. It was all emotionally crazy.
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Di d y o u o b s e s s o v e r t h e y e a r s w it h t h e idea of conquering the World Tour?
It was something I genuinely wanted to achieve, but I was pretty realistic about myself: if I wasn’t winning events during the year, then there would be no way for me to become a World Champion. It wasn’t until I won my first event in 2014 that I really understood the winning formula so I could apply it more often and try to have a real run on the title. I wouldn’t say I was obsessed, but it was something I stroked for.
In March a par year. your
you published a photo on Facebook recalling how tic u l a r s e s s i o n i n B r a z i l c h a n g e d y o u r w h o l e What happened in that session that triggered mindset into becoming the World Champion?
During my whole competitive career, I’ve always struggled to find myself. I watched other people competing and I thought I should do whatever they were doing. I was kind of surfing against my nature, that’s why I had only a few contests on my belt up to that moment. I was like surfing at 70% all the time. The lead up to that defining session in Pampo was the first event of 2015, in Itacoatiara. I ended up in 25th, which is the worst result a seeder rider can get. I felt quite depressed. The next morning, I was looking at the waves and phoned Natasha and told her I was really sick of my surfing in competition and that I was tired of losing. I promised then I’d go to Chile and surf 100% as I wanted to and wouldn’t mind whatever came out of it. I would at least leave the event feeling I was true to myself. So that morning I had the best session of the whole trip to Brazil and I felt a switch, a new level of motivation and inspiration that changed the course of my year. In Arica I surfed completely true to myself and it paid off. I won the event, which became the catalyst moment for me to win the World Tour.
You could’ve just walked away from c o m p e titi o n s o n l y t o s u r f p l e a s u r a b l y , but instead you resisted and eventually got the trophy. So what draws you to t h e c o m p e titi v e s i d e o f b o d yb o a r d i n g ?
Obviously the opportunity to surf against the world’s best [riders]. I’m a huge supporter of competitions in bodyboarding, it is the best way for you to improve yourself and connect with your best possible skillset. It pushes you into situations you usually don’t find yourself in. Everybody likes to win. When I was younger, it was also a way for me to hang out with my favourite bodyboarders and to gain exposure. I was fortunate to have sponsors backing me up since the early days and pursuit a career in the world tour. I was able to create a name for myself for years to come.
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Y o u ’ v e b e e n l i v i n g i n P u e r t o Ric o s i n c e 2 0 1 2 . I n a w a y , y o u w o n t h e W o r l d T it l e a t h o m e . T h a t m u s t ’ v e b e e n p r e tty u n i q u e .
It was definitely pretty amazing to see the reaction of the Puerto Rican bodyboarding and surfing community. They were very supportive; it was awesome to see all the new friends getting really excited about it. My neighbour, who’s a farmer that raises animals and fishes and also works in construction, had probably the coolest reaction that I saw from all the people on the beach. And he doesn’t know anything about bodyboarding. The atmosphere’s electricity was just too much for him; he was very emotional. I brought home a photo of me being lifted up by the crowd after the results came in and he’s in it, crying his eyes out. It was so special to see a guy with no connection to bodyboarding feeling the emotions of everyone else on the beach. It was a good example of how the Puerto Rican community has embraced me. I’m very grateful to them.
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D o y o u t h i n k t h a t m o v i n g t o P u e r t o Ric o w a s e s s e n ti a l f o r y o u r e v o l u ti o n ?
I don’t know, I feel that I can only speak for what I’m experiencing. I don’t know what were to happen if I went living somewhere else, but I believe that Puerto Rico has had a hugely positive effect on my career and life. Just in terms of bodyboarding, the variety of waves I’ve been able to surf here has had a great effect in my riding, specifically on lefts. In South Africa, especially Cape Town, I wasn’t surfing lefts whatsoever. All the best waves are rights. Here in Puerto Rico, all the best waves are lefts and now I ride more lefts than rights and that’s definitely been a factor for me to be able to further my career. Aside from that, the lifestyle I’m living here is extremely different from the one I was living in South Africa. My days revolve around my family, surfing, our house and social activities. In South Africa I didn’t have a family, I was extremely socially active and spent the days surfing. I mean, I was a kid back then. I don’t know what would’ve happen if I hadn’t left South Africa, only that I would still continue surfing good waves. But I believe that everything happens for a reason.
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A n d h o w ’ s t h e r e l a ti o n s h i p w it h t h e l o c a l P u e r t o Ric a n r i d e r s ?
It’s a good relationship, everyone’s generally happy to have me living and surfing here. I do my best to be respectful to everyone. I don’t think of myself as deserving this or that wave just because I’m a professional. I go to the beach, I try to get the waves that I like and everyone’s pretty cool with me. I had a couple of incidents very early on that I guess that came from a bit of jealousy or maybe some territorial instinct, but that quickly blew over and I haven’t had any problems since then. When I get up in the morning I always have a bunch of messages from different guys saying their local spot is pumping and that I should go there. People like to have me around which makes me feel good. I’m happy to be here, my feelings for them is mutual.
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C a n y o u d e s c r ib e u s y o u r f a v o u r it e w a v e s i n P u e r t o Ric o ?
This is a sick destination for boogie. First, there’s a strong bodyboarding scene here. I live in Islote, in the Northern Coast, and there’s a very centred bodyboarding culture up here. And, man, there are so many sick waves. One of my favourites is the heavy right hander next to some rocks that you can see me riding on my Tropic Thunder video. That’s a sick wave. It’s kind of like Frontón’s right with just a bit less of a ramp. Still very awesome. And the wave I surf the most is Mingos, which is a left-hand wedge just a couple of hundred meters from my house. It’s really fun, a natural wedge with a rock that creates sick barrels and big ramps. It’s definitely been a hugely defining factor in improving my surfing on lefty waves.
Y o u m o v e d t o P u e r t o Ric o w it h y o u r f a m i l y a n d i n t h e m e a n ti m e y o u h a d a d a u g h t e r . W a s it h a r d t o a d a p t t o y o u r n e w f a m i l y ci r c u m s t a n c e s a n d s ti l l m a k e a r u n f o r t h e w o r l d tit l e ?
It wasn’t adaption, it came up pretty naturally. I guess we humans are wired to be parents, it wasn’t something I necessarily thought about, I just took it as it came. But I wouldn’t definitely be able to keep up with my career if it wasn’t for my wife. It’s pretty crazy, we’re both fulltime parents and I go away for three weeks at a time and she’s in charge of the house, our daughter, her profession. I definitely owe a lot to her support in terms of my success. I’ve also became more grounded, centred, calmer and mature. I had to, because now I have to insure someone’s life goes well. Then the support I received from my home family, my wife and, of course, my daughter affected my mindset in a positive way.
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Having to provide to your family made you feel pressured to become a World Champion?
I didn’t feel necessarily pressured, but I felt that every achievement, especially financial, would be not only beneficial for me, but for my family. That extra motivation was very important. If I had to look at my history as a professional bodyboarder, my best results have come since I’ve been a father. Wanting to provide and create the best life possible for my family was a big part on my World Title achievement.
I t m u s t h a v e b e e n a s p e ci a l o cc a s i o n f o r y o u r f a m i l y b a ck h o m e a s w e l l . H o w w a s y o u r r e l a ti o n s h i p w it h t h e m r e g a r d i n g y o u w a n ti n g t o b e c o m e a p r o f e s s i o n a l b o d yb o a r d e r s i n c e y o u n g a g e ?
[Laughs] They were so happy, man. We were never a wealthy family, it’s always been a struggle for my family to support me and my siblings in our aspirations. They made a lot of sacrifices for us to get to where we are. Winning the World Title felt like a beautiful validation of all those sacrifices and hard work that they invested during the early years of my development. Their whole life revolved around bodyboarding for the large part of the time I that was living with them. Every family holiday was to a bodyboarding event; every afternoon was at the beach; they would drive me and my friends all
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over the country. They really put it all on the line, accumulated a lots of debts, moved houses, cities, everything you can imagine for me to have the best possible chance to do this. And, to be honest, I really don’t know why. Maybe they thought early on that I was going to make millions out of this thing, but I guess they just started to love this awesome lifestyle too. I was really happy to share this title with them and give back for everything they did for me. I’ve achieved the highest possible accolade in the sport thanks, in large part, to them.
In what sort of world did you grow up b a ck h o m e ?
I grew up in a beautiful world in South Africa. My grandfather was the farm manager of Rustenberg Wine Estate and me and my whole family all lived there. I spent my early years as a farm boy. It was around that time that I found about bodyboarding during a family holiday. I saw some older guys riding boogieboards at a beach. It’s funny because the next day I actually wanted to buy a fishing rope, but my parents bought me this little bodyboard. From then on, it was all I wanted to do, it looked super fun and very cool and I wanted to be a part of it. Then we moved to a town still pretty far from the beach, but my parents would take me surfing at least once a week and every other weekend. As I got more and more serious with it, we started driving more and more and eventually moved to Tableview, down on the West Coast, in 2003. Large part of that move was for me to be closer to the beach. That was definitely a pinnacle moment for my commitment to bodyboarding. There was a solid crew of riders in that area, they were really good, the best guys in the country at that moment. I started surfing there everyday and kept on pushing my ride.
Picki n g o n t h e e x a m p l e o f s k a t e b o a r d i n g ’ s u n i q u e c u l t u r e a n d it s fi e r c e l y i n d e p e n d e n t a n d d e fyi n g s p i r it , d o y o u t h i n k b o d yb o a r d i n g h a d t h e s a m e s o ci a l e ff e ct – e v e n if a t a m u c h smaller extent – in the post-Apartheid context you grew up in?
Politics is something we could talk for days. I don’t really know if bodyboarding had much relevance to a post-Apartheid society, because it was a sport that was pretty much inaccessible to many South Africans. The large majority of the population didn’t have any knowledge of the ocean because they weren’t allowed to go to the beach during the Apartheid. Bodyboarding represented a lifestyle and a group I wanted to belong to. I met a lot of people through it, so it was a network at that level. In my early days, I was very much unaware of Apartheid and its effects in South Africa and my life’s future. I’m much more awake to it at this point of my life.
“Honestly, maybe bodyboarding just stays the same forever. Maybe the World Tour and the industry stay the same. I don’t know”
Y o u ’ v e b e e n r u n n i n g t h e T o u r f o r q u it e a w h i l e . P o e iti , a t s o m e p o i n t , w i l l s t a r t a s ki n g you about the most remarkable moment you l i v e d i n y o u r i n c r e d ib l e j o u r n e y . W h ic h m e m o r y w o u l d y o u p ick u p f o r t o d a y ?
There are so many stories and experiences. The one that has been the humblest of my life was winning the World Title, reaching possibly the pinnacle point of my career, feeling on top of the world, that nothing could touch me, and getting Dengue fever the following week. I came crashing down so hard, I had the worst two weeks of pain and depression I ever felt in my life. That represents that you have to enjoy every good moment while it last and be prepared for it not to be permanent. Take the good from the bad and to just always try to come out stronger. That moment definitely put things into perspective for me.
T h a t w a s h e a v y ! Sti l l it ’ s g o i n g t o b e challenging to topple your 2015.
It was an amazing year. I will always be grateful for it. I just want to carry that feeling with me and apply that to every year of my life. Every year’s different, just want to make the most of every situation and just keep pushing you know.
“Winning the World Title felt like a beautiful validation of all those sacrifices and hard work that my family invested during the early years of my development”
As far as the future goes, what’s on your mind, at this point, about upcoming y e a r s o f o u r s p o r t a n d it s W o r l d T o u r ?
I honestly believe it can only grow from this point. You know, the reason we are all involved with bodyboarding is because we love it. Even if there’s the chance for some financial gain, we are all in this because we like it. What that says to me is that bodyboarding is not going to die or to go anywhere until everyone stops liking it and I just don’t see that happening, ever. When I say that it’s going to grow and get better, that’s me being positive and wanting that to happen. But to be really honest, maybe bodyboarding just stays the same forever. Maybe the World Tour and the industry stay the same. I don’t know. What I know is that I’m extremely passionate about bodyboarding and that I’ll keep pushing it forward until I’m no longer able to. I know that thousands of people around the world love bodyboarding just as much as I do and they will continue to work for its benefit as well. That’s something that I find beautiful and unique about our sport, because we’ve always been in this position. I believe the people in it and everyone wants to see this grow. I feel proud to be involved with such passionate group of people and very positive about the future.
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HOME After a long tour around the globe with his band mates, Mickey Smith spent the last winter back in Ireland reconnecting with his surfing roots.
Interview Ricardo Miguel Vieira Photos Fionn Rogers
“Touring with Ben Howard’s band has been one long, strange, kaleidoscopic trip and we definitely needed the reset button of being home this past winter. After all the wild adventures on the road, I love falling into the sea and wash away whatever energy needs clearing. I feel really lucky to have had a special, creative working environment and a home life that I love. What an amazing journey, this has been. “These sessions at Riley’s and Aileens happened on the same day, somewhere between February and March. I had been pretty busy being a dad or writing music, so I wasn’t exactly prepared for this swell. There hadn’t been many clean days of waves this past winter. Lots of wild, intense storms. I felt that Aileens was going to be good later on this day and that most people were saving their energy for it. I figured I would try and get a couple of tubes early on at Riley’s while the swell was small. In the end, I enjoyed a rare lovely day at my two favourite waves amongst friends. “Riley’s and Aileens were always there, on their spots, throughout the centuries, so I don't really believe in ‘discovering waves’. There's more going on. Many elements, including serendipity and fate, combine to cross paths with certain people at different moments in time.
“Still, getting deep in a tube has to be one of the strangest, most surreal human experiences on the planet. Such a special thing to be able to do! If the waves are too gnarly for me to want to ride, or the vibe feels special or unique, perhaps I might swim among such energy, admire the waves or document my friends pushing themselves at sea as best I can. The waves are what they are and draw certain things out of people. All kinds of characters feel an affinity with this special Who knows why things like uncovering waves energy in different ways: some for solace; some unfold the way they do. What I do know is that for sanity; some for an identity; some for passion; and some for heart.
every session shared at these two wonderful places always
“ N ow a d ay s , I ’m
brings something indescribable
lit up by shooting storms and
to my heart. I feel extremely blessed and so lucky to have had these epic years learning in the ocean at otherworldly locations with such an incredible bunch of brothers and sisters.
“Your heart’s beating isn't it? Listen to what it says then, that's my vibe.”
getting lost looking at the ocean through cameras when shit gets real. And the wild weather looks after Ireland's mystical coastline very well at that level. Nonetheless, I usually
Something mysterious was at
ride the waves first, so then
work in the ether, for sure. It's
- if there's still excitement or
helped create a unique vibe between wave riders in time - photographically it becomes more about Ireland and I've always felt like there was a bigger feelings among the elements than documenting picture at work beyond just riding waves.
experiences.
“My art is pretty instinctive, it comes straight from the heart and how I'm feeling. I try not to be to conscious. I like whatever I create personally to translate how I feel. It's never been about the work, it's just the way I am. I don't really know how to be any other
“ G e tti n g d e e p i n a tube has to be one o f t h e s t r a n g e s t, most surreal human experiences o n t h e p l a n e t.”
way. People have even told me I'm too sensitive at times, but fuck that, I think that by constantly living to feel the highs and lows of life, you are being present and alive. Your heart’s beating isn't it? Listen to what it says then, that's my vibe. “Ultimately, my dark, dense photography tries to translate feeling into whatever it is I find myself
doing. Sometimes the beauty of the dark blazes back; sometimes is the light that comes out. I have no idea why, where or how do I land them photos so shadowy. As I said before, these things remain heartfelt and instinctive and less conscious. “Apart from the art itself, I always felt
a responsibility to document our community’s experiences with pure intent, awareness and respect for Ireland's special coastline and its sacred waves. This came naturally as it was the simple truth at the heart of all the experiences we were living. We tried to translate that vibe whenever it came to publishing our adventures in print or on film. Sometimes we did it well, other times we made mistakes, got burned or had our good intents exploited. We learned a lot about people and grew up through each experience. Compared to all the incredible things we were living at sea each day, we actually only ever released a tiny fraction from our body of documentation and adventures. We were very selective and tried to avoid the rape and pillage culture that defined surfing some years ago. Fergal Smith, for instance, was highly aware of putting things out there in a way that was more in line with our own philosophies, hopefully to create an approach for future generations to follow. Personally, I can hand-on-heart say that I conducted myself with integrity when it came to share visuals of our shores. I still feel that to be able to surf is both a privilege and a blessing, and that it brings a lot of joy to the lives of those who really need it. As long as we can all learn to share and focus on celebrating the wonder of the sea rather than being competitive with each other, everything will always be cool out there.
where people took interest in our waves. As a result, perhaps the scene there took on board a little of our philosophy as well as our approach, and hopefully that might have impacted in a positive way. You
“ I ’ m l it u p by s h o o ti n g s t o r m s a n d g e tti n g l o s t l o o ki n g a t t h e ocean through cameras when s h it g e t s r e a l .”
never know your luck anyways, but it's straight out simple, really. We're just riding waves, after all. “Darkside Of The Lens, for instance, talked about a way of life that had evolved over a long time for me. It started out on the road as a kid, where I was beginning to realise it was okay to pour heart and soul into the things you loved doing. It takes time and some real living to shake all that other shit off that we're told we should live by. Time to realise that a financial incentive is
irrelevant and always secondary to the experience itself. It took me a fair while to believe that and I was happy living life through that philosophy for even longer. My sister Cherry died and in my own way I made this film to explain to her what I'd been doing all that time. After losing her, and through the birth of my daughter, my priorities evolved in many ways: becoming less self-orientated and “So maybe our tight community kept more family aware. I still approach each new it all genuine past the mediatisation of our waves situation with as much heart as I can find. Beyond because we were not motivated by the usual food and shelter for the family, I still seek out the things. There was no money or notoriety to be things that I believe in and care about and fight had when we started out. We were simply doing for them with all I have each day. I've been lucky what we had always done – the things we loved. in so many ways to keep blazing with the things There just happened to be a moment in time I'm into, especially these last few years.
“I always felt a resp onsibility to document our c ommunity’s e x p e r i e n c e s w it h p u r e i n t e n t, awa r e n e s s a n d r e s p e ct f o r I r e l a n d ' s s p e ci a l c o a s t l i n e a n d it s s a c r e d wav e s .”
“Life is what it is and we're all trying to make the very best of whatever we have. To be honest I have no idea if what works for me works for anyone else. I guess no matter the situation, whether elation or tragedy of some kind, pushing yourself to find another perspective, to see the whole picture and find the heart of each situation, “It's now way over 10 years since we has become an important thing for me. Personally first surfed under the cliffs, so the celebratory I also learn a lot from children and their approach Decade book is becoming more about looking to the world. I love watching their wild, awestruck, at all my photography from a period of time and heartfelt sense of fun and adventure at work. I try finding threads that make sense of some of it. to feel and look for a little of that sense of wonder There's a lot to take in and each journey into the in myself. For all the happiness, sadness, joy and vaults is a trip down memory lane. I might never pain around us, I still feel like life on Earth is such get beyond there, but hopefully I will someday a mad miracle. Through a child's eyes, what a soon. Right now I’m just feeling it out and taking breath-taking, heart-breaking, earth shaking, mind my time to finish the tome.
blowing trip this all must be. Forever grateful, man.”
The West Coast. Photo: Tó Mané
R O C K S #
P O R T U G A L ro c k s
Supertubos. Photo: Hélio António
Nunito é uma figura omnipresente, talvez por ser uma espécie de mestre dos sete ofícios em campos criativos que, de algum modo, estão em sintonia com as ondas. É o engenheiro na Wave Solutions Water Housings, selecta nos pioneiros NuBai Soundsystem, co-fundador do colectivo BossItUp, realizador, fotógrafo... enfim, desmultiplicase por um alargado espectro de atividades. Sem esquecer, claro, o bodyboard. Quando as ondulações e os ventos se coordenam, é certo que não há compromisso mundano que o detenha na hora de rasgar uns túneis mágicos num qualquer tapete de pedra ou arenoso. Em Supertubos, de sorriso contagiante, a usufruir da liberdade que só a natureza proporciona.
Nunito is an ubiquitous figure. Perhaps because he’s a master of all trades in creative fields that, one way or the other, relate to the waves. He’s an engineer at Wave Solutions Water Housings, pioneer selecta at NuBai Soundsystem, co-founder of BossItUp’s collective, filmmaker, photographer… The list goes on through a spectrum of activities. Lest we forget his passion for riding the boogie. When the swells and winds enchant the oceans, there no mundane compromise able to withhold his will for crossover some magical tunnels breaking on a rocky or sandy carpet. Here zooming Supertubos with a contagious smile, enjoying the kind of freedom that only nature can purveyor.
Unknown, Carcavelos. Photo: Vasco Côrte-Real
David rafachinho, praia do barbas Photo: Ricardo Abrantes
Mauro Bandeiras, Costa de Caparica. Photo: Holger Menzel
Dino Carmo, Molhe Leste Photo: Marco Gonรงalves
blue lines Photo:Hélio António
Praia do Norte, Nazaré Photo:Hélio António
Unknown, Praia gRande, sintra Photo:miguel soares
Houve uma época, não tão distante quanto se imagina, em que uma jovem geração de bodyboarders açorianos despertou os olhares para a ação que se desenrolava no arquipélago. Nesse clube incluía-se Rodrigo Rijo, um talento precoce e irreverente, então com uns tenros 14 anos, que sonhava como voos maiores no universo do boogie board. Hoje, tanto nas ilhas como no continente, o micaelense é uma referência entre os seus pares mais novos, os mesmos que agora partilham os sonhos que Rijo confessava ter há uns anos: voar tão alto nos lips de São Miguel e Santa Catarina como no mundo do bodyboard.
There was a time no so long ago when a young generation of Azorian bodyboarders drew the spotlight on the Archipelago’s unfurling boogie scene. Rodrigo Rijo, then a premature talent of 14, was among this singular club. Nowadays, he’s a reference for the youthful riders daring to dream the same things as young-gun-Rijo: punting high in São Miguel and Santa Catarina’s lips and in takingover the boogie boarding world.
rijo Photo: Ricardo Amaral
Barrela, Molhe Leste. Photo: Vasco CĂ´rte-Real
Porkito, Porto Dinheiro. Photo: Ricardo Amaral
Tó Cardoso, Cave Photo: Hélio António
Stephanos Kokorelis Photo: Hélio António
Praia do Norte e Stephanos Kokorelis, dois valores seguros na nossa cartilha bodyboarder. Quando o canhão dispara triângulos perfeitos que aceleram impiedosamente em direção ao areal, é garantido que o jovem da linha de Sintra ruma à vila da Nazaré para uma sessão de tubos largos e duelos gravitacionais. Num final de tarde memorável, Kokorelis a projectar um invertido aéreo arrepiante.
Praia do Norte and Stephano Kokorelis, two valuable elements in our bodyboarding scene. When the cannon offsets some perfect triangles, its guaranteed that the young Sintra native will be spotted in Nazaré looking for hollow barrels and gravitational duels. Here launching a massive air reverse in a memorable evening.
Portugal é pequeno em extensão de costa, mas enorme em pérolas salgadas que rolam pelo seu litoral. É palpável entre nós o sentimento de que ainda há muitas ondas solitárias a quebrar no nosso recorte continental. Calibrem a ampulheta da vossa exploração e, quem sabe, talvez sejam surpreendido com umas mutantes ainda por nomear. O Trol, uma das favoritas de Ricardo Faustino, está há muito no nosso mapa de slabs. Quantas mais ainda estão por encontrar neste cantinho?
Portugal’s coastline is small in extension, but huge in salty gems rolling on its shores. It’s sort of palpable the feeling among us that there are yet plenty of waves breaking in solitude on our continent’s waterfront. Calibrate the hourglass of your exploration and you may indeed find yourself beholding some nameless mutants. Trol’s on of the favourite of heavy charger Ricardo Faustino and has been on our slabs map for quite a while. How many more like it is still out there waiting for recognition?
Ricardo Faustino, Trol. Photo: Francisco Raio
Supertubos, Peniche. Photo: Hélio António
Slab salute, Porto Dinheiro. Photo: Hélio António
Tiago Fazendeiro, Trol. Photo: Ricardo Faustino
A Shakira tornou-se, em tempos recentes, numa das ondas mais procuradas pelos bodyboarders portugueses. Em dias de gala, avista-se nesta direita perdida na linha de costa ocidental mais de duas dezenas de riders, espíritos sedentos de canudos redondos e imprevisíveis que não permitem vacilos. Num ângulo absolutamente fantástico e com a falésia a pintar completer a tela, António Belard Ribeiro acelera em mais uma bolha deste pico do oeste. Shakira here isn’t what you expect. It’s the name of the most sought out Portuguese wave in recent years. When it’s pumping, the Western break is seen populated by a couple of dozens of riders, all of them thirsty for roundish, speedy-fast barrels that allow no mistakes. With the cliff overlooking this right bowl, António Belard Ribeiro speeds through another heavy keg and lays his case study on this powerful pointbreak.
Antรณnio Belard Ribeiro, shakira. Photo: Ruben Laranjeira/Uriel
Portugal é pequeno em extensão de costa, mas enorme em pérolas salgadas que rolam pelo seu litoral. É palpável entre nós o sentimento de que ainda há muitas ondas solitárias a quebrar no nosso recorte continental. Calibrem a ampulheta da vossa exploração e, quem sabe, talvez sejam surpreendido com umas mutantes ainda por nomear. O Trol, uma das favoritas de Ricardo Faustino, está há muito no nosso mapa de slabs. Quantas mais ainda estão por encontrar neste cantinho?
Filipe Ferreira, Cova do Vapor. Photo: Miguel Nunes
Portugal’s coastline is small in extension, but huge in salty gems rolling on its shores. It’s sort of palpable the feeling among us that there are yet plenty of waves breaking in solitude on our continent’s waterfront. Calibrate the hourglass of your exploration and you may indeed find yourself beholding some nameless mutants. Trol’s on of the favourite of heavy charger Ricardo Faustino and has been on our slabs map for quite a while. How many more like it is still out there waiting for recognition?
João André, West Coast. Photo: Tó Mané
AndrĂŠ Silva, Ericeira. Photo: Nuno Cardoso
Miguel “Biskoito” Mendonça, Santa Catarina. Photo: Hélio António
Francisco Horta, West Coast Photo: Hélio António
Pierre-Louis Costes, Bunker. Photo: Nuno Cardoso
Home is where your heart is. Photo: Miguel Nunes
A TL
 NTICO
U m a av en t u r a p o r o n da s e i l h a s r e m ota s co m o fotĂłgr afo austr aliano B l a k e Pa r k e r .
D Ă˜ UR
A DO
“Em Outubro, eu e o meu amigo Warrick Murphy embarcámos numa viagem de sete dias pelas Ilhas Faroé na esperança de surfarmos umas ondas solitárias. O arquipélago é um território dinamarquês situado no centro de um triângulo invisível entre a Islândia, Escócia e Dinamarca. É uma região temperamental, rica em paisagens dramáticas e pessoas incrivelmente simpáticas. A linha de costa é desenhada por falésias que se elevam sobre o oceano e os spots surfáveis escondem-se em enseadas profundas e amplamente expostas às ondulações do Atlântico Norte que tanto apreciamos. As sessões não foram memoráveis, mas ficámos contentes por termos conseguido surfar na ilha principal, Streymoy, três ou quatro vezes durante a semana. Encontrá-mos ondas a rondar o metro de altura num wedge situado nas profundezas de uma baía. Foi um milagre que a ondulação conseguisse lá chegar. Mais tarde, descobrimos um par de ondas acessíveis por mota de água e ainda umas slabs mortíferas que não eram tão convidativas. Ao longo de toda a jornada, nunca avistámos uma única alma a remar para o outside, nem tão pouco cruzámos caminho pelas ilhas com qualquer surfista local. Os breaks estavam por nossa conta. Quando as condições do mar não sem alinhavam com os ventos, partíamos à exploração das arrepiantes paisagens das Faroé, com as suas quedas de água e vales ladeados por uma luz dourada que se espalhava pelo arquipélago durante a tarde. De noite ficávamos atentos aos humores dos céus à espera das famosas auroras polares. A primeira vez que as vimos foi uma noite em que acampámos num famoso campo de futebol tornado espaço de campismo na pequena vila de Eiði. A temperatura estava extremamente baixa, a Lua cheia e o radar assinalava uma pequena janela de tempo em que as nuvens se evaporavam. Por volta das 11 da noite, saí da tenda para ler um livro e manter um olho no céu à espera daquele brilho verde-baço. Uma hora mais tarde, pareceu-me vislumbrar uma pálida nuvem colorida a estender-se pelo manto escuro pontilhado por estrelas. Pensei que estava a tripar. Fui buscar a câmara, comecei a fotografar e quando olhei para as imagens no pequeno ecrã confirmei a presença de um traço verde claro no céu. A reação imediata foi gritar que nem uma miúda. De seguida, partimos rumo à baía, trepando pelas rochas, em busca de um melhor posto de observação. Durante as duas horas seguintes, as auroras foram absorvendo cada vez mais luz, tornando-se limpidamente visíveis a olho nu. Foi uma experiência inacreditável.
Os faroenses que conhecemos ao longo da viagem eram calorosos, acolhedores e intrigados sobre o que estávamos por ali a fazer com pranchas de bodyboard debaixo do braço. Houve quem nos convidasse a tomar café e a comer em suas casas e a pernoitar em espaços de campismo privados. São pessoas realmente únicas. A tradição faroense da captura de baleias é provavelmente o símbolo cultural mais conhecido no exterior do arquipélago. Mas quando visitamos a região, conversamos com as pessoas e observamos de perto a crueza natural em redor, compreendemos a necessidade da população em caçar para aguentarem o inverno rigoroso. É um ritual com muitos, muitos anos do qual que não abdicam, caçando apenas o indispensável. Ainda assim, continua a ser um tema sensível aos olhos das pessoas de fora. Este tipo de surf trips a regiões menos propensas ondulações épicas é extremamente dependente dos elementos mistério e meteorologia. Todos os eventos e elementos da jornada são importantes e a quantidade de trabalho e de planeamento préviagem que empreendes em busca de uma surfada diferente pode tornar a aventura bastante mais recompensadora. Partilhar a experiência com poucos amigos é também muito importante. É fantástico encontrar um spot desconhecido e acertar na combinação swell-vento-maré; torna-se mais marcante do que apanhar diariamente umas ondas divertidas no nosso local de sempre. Acredito que os surfistas de hoje procuram fugir de outros surfistas. Querem ter uma experiência única. De certo modo, os fotógrafos que os acompanham também os atraem para lugares mais obscuros para que possam criar retratos mais dramáticos e entusiasmantes. Há dois anos que vivo e trabalho no Reino Unido e não penso ficar para sempre na Europa. Por isso, também procuro afastar-me daqueles lugares cliché para surfar, optando por destinos inesperados. São experiências como a que vivi nas Ilhas Faroé que vou realmente apreciar quando a minha aventura no Hemisfério Norte terminar.
G Ø LDEN
Last October, my buddy Warrick Murphy and I boarded a plane for a 7-day trip to the Faroe Islands hoping to score some empty waves. The archipelago rests at the center of an invisible triangle outlined by Iceland, Scotland and Denmark and it’s rich in crazy, dramatic landscapes and light hearted people. The region is fickle; the coastline’s sketched by cliffs towering over the ocean; and its surfable spots are hidden in deep coves, widely exposed to the Northern Atlantic swells we all love.
Hu n t i n g u n e x p l o r e d wav e s i n d i s ta n t l a n d s w i t h Au s t r a l i a n p h o t o g r a p h e r B l a k e Pa r k e r .
A TL A NTIC
The surf sessions weren’t memorable, but it was cool that we ended up surfing on the main island three or four times during the week. We scored a fun 3-foot punchy wedge that was situated deep in a bay. It was miraculous that the swell could even reach there. Further on we spotted a couple of waves that would be accessible with a ski and a few death slabs that weren’t quite as inviting. During our time in the Faroes, we never stumbled across a single soul paddling out. We had pretty much every break for ourselves. When the swell wasn’t pumping , we’ d chase Faroes’ breathtaking landscapes, its waterfalls and valleys awash by the afternoon’s shimmering golden light. In the evening we’d be on the lookout for the northern lights. The first night we spotted them we were camping at a famous football pitch turned campground in a small town called Eiði. Temperatures were below freezing, the moon was bright and the radar signaled a brief window of clear skies. At about 11pm I left the tent to read a book and gaze over the ocean for that faint green glow. After about an hour, I saw what seemed to be a pale green
cloud stretch across the night sky. Thinking I was tripping out a little, I grabbed my camera and started shooting. A light green streak could be seen on the screen and I just started screaming like a little girl. So we took off down to the bay, climbing over rocks, to find a good point-of-view. Over the next couple hours, the lights developed and grew in intensity. At some point, the northern lights became clear to the naked eye. It was a mind-blowing experience.
The Faroese people we met along the way were warm, welcoming and intrigued as to what we were up to. Some invited us to their house for coffee and food and offered us to stay in private campgrounds. They were really amazing throughout our journey. The whale capturing tradition is probably the most glaring cultural landmark for which the Faroese are recognised. But when you go there, talk to the people and really observe the rawness of the region, you get an understanding of their need for hunting food, which they have been doing for a long, longtime. They stick to hunting what they need and store it for the heavy winter. Still, it’s a subject that strikes a nerve on outsiders. This type of surf trip relies massively on the roles of mystery and weather. The journey is a big factor and the amount of work and planning you put into that surf potentially makes it more rewarding. Sharing these experiences with not too many friends is also important. It’s truly fulfilling to find an unknown spot and get the right swell-wind-tide combination, much more then rocking up to your local break day after day for fun waves. I truly believe that surfers nowadays want to get away from other surfers; they want to have a unique adventure. In a way, their photographers are pushing them to these obscure locations so they can both create more dramatic and exciting photos. I’ve been living and working in the UK for the past couple of years and I won’t be here forever so I am too trying to move away from the cliché wave locations and find something a little different. Experiences like the Faroe Islands are the ones I’ll look back on and cherish once my time in the Northern Hemisphere is done.
_ T e a h u p o o Photo: Leo Neves
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