Masculinity - Design Research

MASCULINITY // METRO-SEXUALITY THE CHANGING IMAGE OF MASCULINITY

THE LOOK

CULTURE'S AESTHETIC

MAN AS INTRODUCTION

AN IMAGE

The term “metrosexual,” first defined in 1994 by Mark Simpson, has become the buzzword of the year. Defined as, “a narcissist in love with not only himself but his urban lifestyle; a straight man who is in touch with his feminine side” (Wordspy, 2004), Metrosexual male have been identified as men who enjoy shopping, fashion and beauty products. This is a new subculture of men that are going mainstream with their lifestyle which includes excessive grooming and interest in fashion, which have typically been regarded as feminine behaviors.

OBJECTIVES OF THE RESEARCH i) Establish a relationship between selfesteem and emergence of the metrosexual man ii) Establish the role of media and celebrity figures in influencing the metrosexual male iii) Blurring the lines between gender roles & gender mannerisms.

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY The Research Methodology used for the research include : i) Analysis of the secondary data ii) Questionnaire method iii) Semi- structured qualitative interview

Metrosexuality the trend of the past Although the metrosexual appears to be a new trend, history proves otherwise. Historically, men’s clothing has been at least as decorative and elaborate as women’s attire, and men have had a strong interest in fashion, grooming and appearance (Steele, 1989).

Thus, the current trend of men interested in feminine areas of fashion and grooming is really not so modern.

As late as, 16th and 17th century men wore silk stockings, cosmetics, long curled and perfumed hair” (Steele, 1989 p.15). Men were very attentive to their appearance at this time and grooming rituals included the use of rouge, heavy perfume oils and skin lighteners (Tortora & Eubank, 2000)

Steele, V. (1989). Appearance and Identity. In C. Kidwell & V. Steele Tortora, P. & Eubank, K. (2000). Survey of Historic Costume: A History of Wester Dress. New York: Fairchild.

Then why fashion became effiminate Some believe that this idea is linked to the French Revolution when the French wanted to disassociate themselves from the elaborate styles of courtly dress and the new masculine ideal became the English country gentleman (Kidwell, 1989).

Most historians conclude that the notion of fashion as feminine is based on economics and the industrial revolution, as women were usually in the home while men worked outside of the home (Craik, 1994; Laver, 1969).

Women were the market for fashion since they were the consumers of the family. Men’s fashion became plain and simplistic in order to portray a more serious image for work.

Men’s fashions during the 19th century were very somber and, “it was considered ungentlemanly to wear anything striking” (Laver, 1969, p.170). This is when men’s wear became associated with the dull, gray suit .

Kidwell, C. (1989). Gender Symbols or Fashionable Details.

Craik, J. (1994). The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion.

Laver, J. (1969). Costume and Fashion: A Concise History.

DEPICTING GENDER ROLES The notion of what is feminine and what is masculine has been, “generated from theories attributed to public and private domains” (Firat & Dholakia,1998, p.16) since the middle of the 20th century.

In relation to consumption and production, women were the consumers and men were the producers. This is traditional gender role ideology. Thus, consumption and the act of consuming has historically been linked to females and femininity, as it was considered, “a passive moment...sensual and emotional rather than rational” (Firat & Dholakia, 1998, p.76).

Masculinity, on the other hand was associated with production not consumption and this, (the man’s occupation) was the source of male identity.

Firat, A. & Dholakia, N. (1998). Consuming People: From Political Economy to Theaters of Consumption. London: Routledge.

DEPICTING GENDER ROLES Currently, there is a shift in society as men are becoming more involved in the act of consumption. Firat (1994) explores this metamorphosis in his article, “Transcending the Feminine”. He theorizes that this change is because marketing, advertising, film, etc. have changed the meanings attributed to consumption.

The change in the significations of gender have been aided by various social and cultural movements, such as urbanization, the women’s movement and postmodernism (Otnes & McGrath, 2001). These new meanings have made it acceptable for males to consume.

Firat asserts that males need to be involved in consumption because it is a new means of identity.

Otnes, C. & Mcgrath, M. (2001). Perceptions and realitites of male shopping behavior.

INDIAN MARKET RESEARCH The market for male cosmetic products, although still niche in India, is growing and evolving. Male consumers are placing greater importance on looking good and the personal care aspects of improved health and wellness. Understanding male needs, attitudes and behaviors towards grooming will open up new commercial avenues in this under-served arena. (Prof. Siddharth Shriram Shimpi and Dr. D. K Sinha) According to Nielsen, the male-grooming market in India is worth Rs695 crore (as of January) and is growing at a rate of 11%; the figure for the metros is 12%.

(A factor analysis on product attributes for Consumer buying behavior of male cosmetics in Pune City)

THE TREND STYLISH QUOTIENTÂ

60 %

45 %

30 %

15 %

0%

Mumbai

Delhi

Calcutta

Hyderabad

NIELSON REPORT

THE TREND

VISIT GYM OR SPORTS CLUBÂ 40 %

30 %

20 %

10 %

0%

Mumbai

Delhi

Calcutta

Hyderabad

NEILSON REPORT

THE TREND VISIT A SALON Calcutta 21%

Mumbai 38%

Hyderabad 21%

Delhi 21%

PRIMARY ANALYSIS Questionnaire Target Audience - Young men of Delhi NCR Age Bracket - 21 to 35 years old Sample Size : 50 questionnaires

PRIMARY ANALYSIS i) Self esteem factors playing a vital role in 'grooming and metrosexual lifestyle'

MALE PERSONALITY

ii) The role of media & fashion influencing the METROSEXUAL man. e.g. celebrity endorsement iii) The evident gap in the notion of gender roles and mannerisms in blurring.

FE

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IN

IN

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CU

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METROSEXUAL MALE

BLURRING GENDER ROLES

ROLE OF MEDIA & FASHION

SELF ESTEEM FACTORS

ANALYSIS RESULT Men are noticeably taking an interest in their appearance. Through fashion and grooming men are spending more time and more money on how they look.

The term “metrosexual� has become a popular term to describe this phenomenon, and it has been considered a phenomenon because society does not expect men to focus on their appearance.

Fashion, beauty and image enhancement have long been the domain of women, yet it has become increasingly accepted for men to enter this territory. The purpose of this research was to identify factors that contributed to this trend where gender roles and norms are shifting in our society.

EMERGING INSIGHTS

- Indian men are interacting with the grooming brands not for the functional reasons. They have a deep seeded reason behind the sameGrooming brands/ products one of the tools to regain the supremacy.

-Grooming used as a tool to enhance ‘SelfImage’ -Grooming is not gender centric but people centric - Grooming is helping in the expansion and not substitution of core gender identity - Frequent visits to the parlour & salon - Uncomfortable with the ‘feminine ambience’ of the salon

EMERGING GAPS IN THE AREA

- The consumers of the 'metrosexual lifestyle' are not freely acknowledging the change because of the societal norms.

- Lack of verbal discussion among men, fear of judgement - Feeling of a 'shared' or 'borrowed' domain.

Lack of exclusivity for the metrosexual male.

- Used as a 'taboo', often mistaken with being gay.

DESIGN SOLUTIONS #1 WEBSITE - l'homme the one//

DESIGN SOLUTIONS #1 WEBSITE - l'homme the one//

DESIGN SOLUTIONS #1 Â WEBSITE - l'hommme the one// Designing an exclusive Website for Men; for them to keep up with the current fashion trends, styling options and even purchase the same. A one stop shop for all.

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

It creates an opportunity for the men to keep up with all the current fashion styles and trends

It does not have a mass appeal. has a niche audience on the receiving end of this solution.

An exclusive site for them where they are the sole target audience and the entire site is designed keeping them in mind. Their likes and dislikes.

Website can only solve solutions at a superficial level, there needs to be a change in the attitude, notions attached to it and the lifestyles.

The new definition of 'masculinity' is not addressed n its true self in a website.

DESIGN SOLUTIONS #2 Â CAMPAIGN POSTER Designing a Campaign poster to break the stereo typical notion of the society of how a male should be dressed STRENGTHS The concept of 'Pretty Patriarchy' which includes groomed men, bare waxed chests, highlights along the cheek bone, eye-linered and Kohl-ed eyes.

"Raymond a complete man"- but is he not a complete man after being groomed and having effeminate traits.

Pulling the consumers 'out of the closet'.

Addressing the elephant in the room

DESIGN SOLUTIONS #2 CAMPAIGN POSTER

WEAKNESSES The campaign though would initiate the initial stir and debates but however the effect would be short lived.

Might make people more aware but would not enhance or change the lifestyles of the metrosexual males.

DESIGN SOLUTIONS #3 EXCLUSIVE MEN PERSONAL PRODUCT RANGE

DESIGN SOLUTIONS #3Â EXCLUSIVE MEN PERSONAL PRODUCT RANGE STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

An exclusive product range for just them.

They don't need to 'borrow' their necessity personal bathing products fro the female range of products.

It might help enhance their issue of selfimage and grooming but will not change the way the notion of 'metrosexuality is looked at'

The composition of the shaving cream , shampoo, lotions etc are all made keeping in mind the men skin type and needs. Oil for beard, moustache. Face wash for rough to soft skin etc.

It is a solution for the 'immediate need' but in the long run it will be accepted as a mere products from men. The blurring between the genders will be overlooked.

DESIGN SOLUTIONS #4Â MEN SALON - THE ONE// Designing an exclusive Men salon for men 'The One//' The complain of a feeling of a 'shared' or a 'borrowed' domain could be addressed with this design solution. It focuses on the likes and dislikes of men and consciously designed along those consideration.

KEY FEATURES i) Spa Bar - Constitutes of a Bar, where they could grab a drink, hang out while other fellow customers while while getting the salon treatment ii) FIFA Gaming Corner - They could play on the Play station while getting a pedicure. iii) Pool Table - sometimes when the waiting time is long, normally the customer are given a magazine , cosmopolitans to kill time.

#4Â MEN SALON - THE ONE//

#3 MEN SALON - THE ONE// STRENGTHS The introduced features will not only create an environment that is men friendly and not along the 'stereotypical' effeminate features.

It will also help be an ice breaker for all those metrosexual male who shy away from accepting or acknowledging he fact that they visit a salon.

Pulling the consumers out of their comfort zone and packaging the entire concept of grooming in a new manner- that which will be easier to accept for them the society and the consumers.

This solution will have a lifestyle changing effect. It will enhance the quality of their lives along with creating a chill zone for them to break the monotony of the 'Raymond's perfect man' in a typical suited look.

THANK YOU!