Art and Culture

ART and CULTURE

INDEX

CITY OF ART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

4

SANTA GIULIA CITY MUSEUM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

6

THE ROMAN AGE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

8

DISCOVERING BRESCIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

10

AROUND BRESCIA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

14

LAKE GARDA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

18

The Monumental Complex of San Salvatore-Santa Giulia

Piazza del Foro and Capitolium (Capitolium temple) The Castle, Arms Museum and Risorgimento Museum Teatro Grande and the International Piano Festival Duomo Nuovo Duomo Vecchio Tosio Martinengo Art Gallery Diocesan Museum

Musil Pinac – Aldo Cibaldi International Children At Gallery Mazzucchelli Museums Mille Miglia Museum National Museum of Photography Marble Route

Vittoriale degli Italiani Rocca and Ugo Da Como House-Museum Isola del Garda Prehistorical pile-dwellings in the alps

Catullus’ Grotto and Sirmione Castle Rome and the middle ages on the shores of the lake The places of the Republic of Salò Tower of St. Martino The paper valley

CAMONICA VALLEY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

22

TROMPIA VALLEY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

26

SABBIA VALLEY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

30

LAKE ISEO AND FRANCIACORTA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

32

BRESCIA PLAIN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

pag.

34

Archeopark Cerveno Via Crucis Romanino route Adamello White War Museum

Paul VI Collection of contemporary art Iron and Mine Route Sacred Art Route The forest narrates Other museums

The sacred and the profane Bagolino Carnival Rocca d’Anfo

Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa Rodengo Saiano Olivetan abbey Via Valeriana, between the Lake and the valley Ome forge

Tiepolo in Verolanuova Padernello Castle

PHOTO CREDITS: Thanks to: Assessorato al Turismo - Comune di Brescia, Archivio fotografico Musei Civici d’Arte e Storia, Fondazione Brescia Musei, Fondazione Pinac, Musei Mazzucchelli, Fondazione Ugo Da Como, Fondazione Il Vittoriale degli italiani, Centro camuno di studi preistorici, Bresciainvetrina, Mediateca del SIBCA di Valle Trompia.

4

ART AND CULTURE

B

CITY OF ART

rescia is an outstanding Italian art city.

Its complex history has left visible marks on urban architecture, the profile of palaces, and the shape of churches.

Visitors strolling around in the city centre will pass a Renaissance-style square, sip a coffee in the shadows of a medieval palace, enter into a store and observe its vaulted ceiling and the exposed brick walls, sit on a bench and scroll their iPads in front of a Baroque church or in the heart of the largest archaeological area in northern Italy.

This multiplicity of styles reminds you of the long history of Brescia.

This is a proud, elegant city where art and culture have always held an important role. Exquisite works of art can be found in its museums, art galleries, cultural foundations, and its numerous churches that testify to the city’s profound religious roots. You will admire sculptures, paintings, mosaics, statues, and modern and contemporary installations everywhere.

This harmony can be experienced also in the surrounding region,

where even nature and landscape become expressions of pure artistic beauty.

Nearby Lakes Garda, Iseo, and Idro are ideal destinations for cosmopolitan tourists who appreciate their rich cultural offering, enchanting landscapes, and efficient tourism infrastructure. The valleys offer innumerable opportunities to enjoy a summer or winter holiday; they are the cradle of our history, starting from pure treasures such as the Rock Engravings (dating from Prehistory and declared World Heritage Site) to the Iron and Mine Route in Trompia Valley which explains the culture and history of metalwork in the area.

Rural Brescia plain is also full of surprises: even the smallest village boasts paintings, noble palaces, and old farms.

This richness encourages exploration: visitors will discover the multiple facets of the Brescia region, try different experiences, and enjoy a fun holiday which will also be educational and will raise awareness.

Lastly, the province of Brescia hosts three UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

5

SANTA GIULIA CITY MUSEUM

6

ART AND CULTURE

O

n June 25, 2011 the Santa Giulia Monastery and the Capitolium Archaeological area included in the site “Lombards in Italy. Places of the Power (568-774 A.D.) were listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage Site together with Cividale del Friuli, Castelseprio-Torba, Spoleto, Campello sul Clitunno, Benevento, and Monte Sant’Angelo.

THE MONUMENTAL COMPLEX OF SAN SALVATORE SANTA GIULIA The monumental complex of San Salvatore-Santa Giulia in Brescia is an extraordinary place. This nunnery was built in 753 by Brescia’s duke Desiderius before he became king of the Lombards.

The church of San Salvatore is one of the most significant examples of religious architecture in the Early Middle Ages; its ornamentation is among the richest and best preserved.

The monastery included lodging for pilgrims and the poor, and played a fundamental role in the social context of that time.

Today, the whole complex, after an outstanding restauration and enhancement work, hosts the City Museum and displays the most important artistic artifacts that narrate the long history of Brescia and its region.

Of particular importance from the sculptural point of view are the Winged Victory, the Emperors’ gilded bronze heads, and the numerous marble artifacts in the Roman section.

THE ROMAN AGE TWO THOUSAND YEARS OF HISTORY…

8

ART AND CULTURE

The splendor that the city reached during the Roman Age is testified by the materials showcased in the Santa Giulia Museum, which come from public, civic, and religious buildings (such as the late Republican Age sanctuary where the splendid ‘fourth cell’ was recently restored, and over which the Capitolium temple was built), as well as

private houses and the first Christian places of worship. Inside the Museum, a special exhibit is dedicated to a Roman house (Domus) with remains from two beautiful houses found in an area that in the Middle Ages was near the nuns’ vegetable garden (hence the name Domus dell’Ortaglia – vegetable garden in Italian).

9

DISCOVERING BRESCIA

10

ART AND CULTURE

PIAZZA DEL FORO AND CAPITOLIUM (CAPITOLIUM TEMPLE) During the Roman Age it was the epicenter of Brescia’s political, religious, and commercial life.

The Capitolium Temple was on one end of the square, the old tribunal or Basilica on the other, and the sides had two colonnades with stores right behind. Today, the combination of Roman remains, noble palaces, and old houses create a fascinating urban environment.

The Capitolium Temple was built under Emperor Vespasianus between 73 and 74 A.D. and was the northern boundary of the Forum in the Roman city of Brixia.

Between the 4th and 5th centuries, it was partially destroyed by a fire, covered in debris, and rediscovered only in 1823. Its current aspect dates from 1939.

Inside the three cells there is a vast collection of Roman epigraphs as well as commemorative and votive stones coming from the whole province of Brescia.

The most part of the archaeological artifacts found here are on display at the Santa Giulia Museum. Among the most significant exhibitions, the Roman collection is the most substantive in terms of numbers: apart from the rich gravestone collection, there are sculptures, mosaics, grave goods, and the bronze statuette series.

Work is still in progress to complete the archaeological studies, perform additional restoration, and add new visit itineraries.

THE CASTLE ARMS MUSEUM AND RISORGIMENTO MUSEUM The Cidneo hill on which the castle stands was inhabited since Prehistory.

During the Roman Age, a grandiose temple was erected on the hill. Since the Middle Ages, the top of the hill has been fortified: first the Mirabella Tower was built, then the Visconti Keep in the 14th century, and the bastions and storage buildings during the Venetian domination.

After entering through the imposing 16th century entrance, which once had a drawbridge, you reach the panoramic gardens and the castle’s two museums.

The Risorgimento Museum is housed in the Grande Miglio building and displays items and documents from the Italian Unification Wars period, in particular relating to the events that involved Brescia and its region from Napoleon’s domination to Italian Unification. The Arms Museum is inside the Visconti Keep at the top of the fortress, and it boasts one of the richest ancient arms and armours collections in Europe. The core of the exhibit is the Luigi Marzoli collection, which showcases Milan and Brescia arms production from the 15th to the 18th centuries and is a testimony of the exquisiteness and artistic significance of Brescia’s craftsmanship.

TEATRO GRANDE AND THE INTERNATIONAL PIANO FESTIVAL The current auditorium of Teatro Grande was designed by architect Luigi Canonica and built in 1810. Girolamo Magnani decorated it in 1862. The Ridotto (Foyer), opened in 1772, is one of the most outstanding examples of 18th century architectural pomp applied to a theatre.

Its lovely ceiling depicts a sky populated by several Greek gods, and with a trompe-l’oeil balustrade all around.

One famous anecdote is that Puccini’s Madame Butterfly was enthusiastically received when it was performed here for

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

11

the first time on May 28th 1904, after an unsuccessful first performance at Milan’s La Scala. This is where the opera’s fortune started.

Teatro Grande’s Season includes classic and contemporary productions ranging from opera to dance, music, and cultural events. Every year in the springtime, Teatro Grande hosts the International Piano Festival of Brescia and Bergamo, one of the world’s main piano events.

DUOMO NUOVO The construction of Duomo Nuovo (New Cathedral) started at the beginning of the 1600s, on the site where old San Pietro de Dom cathedral stood. This monumental work, a project by Gian Battista Lantana, took two centuries to complete and underwent several modifications. The final addition was the large cupola of 1825. The building is majestic and imposing, with Baroque elements in the lower portion of the façade and Neoclassical elements in the upper portions, added after the second half of the 18th century.

The interior contains noteworthy pieces of art such as St. Apollonius Tomb (1510), two double paintings by Romanino (one of the most important Renaissance painters in Brescia), and the altar piece

by Giacinto Zoboli (1733), flanked by two statues by sculptor Antonio Callegari. On the left of the Altar, in the Trinity Chapel, there is an altar-piece by Giuseppe Nuvolone (1679), a grandiose ex voto for the 1630 plague.

DUOMO VECCHIO Duomo Vecchio (Old Cathedral) is also called ‘Rotunda’ and it is one of the most charming sacred places in Brescia.

The ancient Paleo-Christian cathedral,

12

ART AND CULTURE

Santa Maria Maggiore, was demolished between the 11th and 12th centuries to make room for the ample circular building that you can admire today.

In the interior, in front of the entrance, lies the imposing red marble sarcophagus of Bishop Berardo Maggi, lord of the city, who died in 1308. A flight of stairs descends into the Rotunda, where 8 pillars support arches that run along its circumference and support the hemispheric cupola. The raised, deep presbytery contains the Sacred Crosses Chapel on its left, where precious reliquaries are positioned behind protective grates.

On the right, the Most Holy Sacrament Chapel is decorated with four paintings

by Moretto and two by Romanino in the area before the gate.

The choir is dominated by the outstanding Assumption altar-piece

by Moretto and is enriched by wooden stalls by Antonio da Soresina (1522). The organ was built by Costantino Antegnati (1536). Two sets of stairs on the sides of the staircase leading to the presbytery lead to the crypt dedicated to St. Filastrio (bishop of Brescia in the 4th century) with columns and capitals belonging to the

crypt of the preceding cathedral (dating from the Roman Age, Bizantine-Ravenna Age, and 8th-9th centuries).

highlight the most significant artists in the Brescian painting and collectionism panorama.

TOSIO MARTINENGO ART GALLERY

DIOCESAN MUSEUM

The City Art Gallery (Pinacoteca) is housed in the Martinengo da Barco palace and was founded in 1908 thanks to the donations of Count Paolo Tosio’s (1844) and Count Francesco Leopardo Martinengo’s (1883) collections. Over time, it received other bequests with pieces coming from suppressed churches or demolished buildings, and more recently from acquisitions.

The collection boasts true masterpieces that make this gallery one of the top museums for antique painting in Italy and abroad. Incomparable beauty is found in Raffaello Sanzio’s and Lorenzo Lotto’s works. Eminent 15th century Lombard maestro Vincenzo Foppa is showcased with numerous works; Brescian Renaissance masters Savoldo, Romanino, and Moretto are also displayed, as well as 16th century portrait artists like Tintoretto and Sofonisba Anguissola.

The 18th and 19th centuries are represented by some important artists from different cultural approaches (Palma the Young, Andrea Celesti). Local ‘reality painters’ like Antonio Cifrondi and Giacomo Ceruti called Pitocchetto are also worth mentioning. Pitocchetto’s collection of works in the gallery is especially important for its quality and volume.

The Pinacoteca is currently closed to the public as it is undergoing restoration and restaging.

It will be reopened soon with a rich selection of paintings from its collections – temporarily on display at Santa Giulia Museum and the Diocesan Museum – to

The permanent collections of Diocesan Museum (Museo Diocesano) are divided into four sections: paintings and sculptures, illuminated books, sacred jewellery, and vestments.

The paintings and sculptures section showcases works of artists from Brescia and the Veneto region. A 14th century masterpiece is Virgin Mary with Baby Jesus by Paolo Veneziano. The 16th century is represented by the most significant local painters: Alessandro Bonvicino (called Moretto), Girolamo Romanino, and Pietro Maria Bagnatore.

Jacopo Tintoretto prepared the sketch of Transfiguration for the Church of Sant’Afra in Brescia. Titian’s workshop produced Christ’s Face, painted on stone.

The 17th and 18th centuries have local artists Giuseppe Tortelli, Gian Antonio Capello, Pietro Avogadro, and Francesco Savanni as the most renowned figures in the collection.

Veneto artists include Andrea Celesti, Francesco Capella called Daggiù, Gian Battista Pittoni, and Giambattista Tiepolo (Constantin’s Baptism).

The section devoted to sacred jewellery contains artefacts made starting from the second half of the 16th century.

You can admire a series of manuscripts in the illuminated books section, writeen from the 12th century on. A noteworthy manuscript is the Order Book of the Santi Faustino and Giovita Confraternity of the town of Collio.

The vestments section is one of the most comprehensive in Italy. There are Venetian, Italian, and French pieces starting from the 15th century.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

13

AROUND BRESCIA

14

ART AND CULTURE

MUSIL Musil is the first Italian museum dedicated to industrialisation as a phenomenon encompassing the whole society.

The exhibit uses a great variety of materials, conceptually organised so as to create a single thread along the history of industrialisation.

The museum is currently composed of multiple sites:

• Museum of Industry and

Labour is in Rodengo Saiano, Franciacorta. This exhibit contains the main machinery collections and artifacts and tells the story of Brescian and Italian manufacturing industry; significant pieces are a 1941 Ansaldo armoured tank, an old lithographic press, the prototype of a caravan, two large models of nuclear plants, and numerous machines and objects from a variety of production sectors (typography, cinematography, communication, IT, mechanics, textile, tanning, food, etc.)

• Museum of Hydroelectric Energy,

in Cedegolo, Camonica Valley, is the symbol of 20th century modernity. It is the ideal venue for a new generation museum. The leitmotiv is water: it runs from two fountains and down an iron wall to gather into a hole in the ground. This represents how water runs from Alpine slopes and goes through the hydraulic works in the Adamello catchment basin. The panoramic terrace overlooking the Oglio river closes the circle and returns water back to its natural environment.

• Iron Museum is housed in the old

Caccagni smithy and is a museumlaboratory of industrial archaeology.

The museum explains the historic role of the hydraulic wheel and immerses visitors into the atmosphere of this old workplace where talented craftsmen used to work. The main objective of the museum is to offer an understanding of the area by looking at its environment, history, economy, and society.

• Musil’s main site is under construction in Brescia, in a metal factory at the industrial outskirts of the city which was built between the 19th and 20th centuries, then abandoned, but still maintaining its original design.

PINAC - ALDO CIBALDI INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN AT GALLERY PInAC is the home of drawings made by children all over the world. It is in Rezzato, right outside of Brescia.

This international collection is unique in Italy and Europe. It has studied children’s expressiveness for over fifty years. The over 6,000 drawings, organised in digital files, come from 58 countries and portray

16

ART AND CULTURE

the emotions, feelings, and thoughts of thousands of children.

The collection is constantly adding new material through school submissions, contests, and international projects.

PinAC is an exhibition and educational space that fosters creativity and freedom of expression in children and adults alike, also with electronic paintbrushes.

It promotes and cultivates the right to access beauty, a fundamental need for everyone, through art.

MAZZUCCHELLI MUSEUMS Musei Mazzucchelli are housed in beautiful Villa Mazzucchelli’s west wing.

The villa is in Mazzano, at the oustkirts of Brescia. Its scenic pronaos, the only one in Lombardy, is in Palladian style and was built using six columns from old San Pietro de Dom cathedral (demolished to make room for the New Cathedral in Brescia).

There are three museums in the villa: the Museum of Fashion and Costume, displaying about 5,000 clothes and accessories from mid-1600 until the birth of haute-coûture in the 20th century; the Museum of Wine and Corkscrews, with one of the largest and most eclectic collections of vintage corkscrews in the world (over 2,300 pieces); the Giammaria Mazzucchelli House Museum, showcasing objects and furniture of the end of the 19th century, among which a very rare grand piano which belonged to Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli (Brescia, 1920 – Lugano, 1995), with an autograph in the sound box.

Other than these rich collections, another interesting exhibition in the villa is the Giuseppe Alessandra Art Gallery, with paintings and works dating from the 13th through the 20th centuries and including some of the most important Renaissance

painters in Lombardy and Veneto: Vittore Carpaccio, Paris Bordon, Tintoretto, and Tiziano.

MILLE MIGLIA MUSEUM The Mille Miglia Museum is located inside the Monastery of Sant’Eufemia, a medieval complex at the doors of the city.

Created with the objective of offering a live testimony of the legendary car race (which was born in Brescia), the Museum has also become a wonderful opportunity to learn about how culture, customs, and society developed between 1927 and 1957 (the years where the first version of the race took place).

The museum is chronologically organised into three sections: 1927-1957, 1958-1961, and contemporary Mille Miglia. It displays vintage cars, relics, and photos, as well as numerous references and presentations of monuments and Italian cities or locations that the race goes through.

Every section has descriptive panels about the history, customs, and political and social events of the time, complemented by audiovisual support like images and a series of screens that show vintage films of the race and its protagonists.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY Founded in 1953, the Museum of Photography reflects the passion that the city has for this expressive form.

The museum is located in the city centre; it displays cameras (including the world’s first camera), cinematography equipment, filming equipment, and dark room equipment (over 10,000 pieces). It also organises national and international exhibits, as well as conferences.

The photo gallery includes 300,000

photos of any size, age (starting from the first photos ever taken) and authors; the dedicated library has 9,000 books.

The passion for photography continues with the Ken Damy Museum, founded in 1990. It offers an auditorium, library, courses, and above all, solo exhibits of nationally and internationally acclaimed artists.

MARBLE ROUTE The Marble Route is an interesting itinerary that stretches from Brescia to Lake Garda and includes renowned marble quarries. It describes the history and cultural elements of marble mining.

Marble extraction has deeply influenced the development of the land and the people in this area, as well as the geography of the hills, where the quarrying activity has created ample, very visible amphiteatres.

Botticino marble is particularly wellknown and has been used to build and beautify buildings for a long time.

Examples range from Brescia’s Roman buildings such as the Capitolium temple in the heart of the city, to more modern examples like Altare della Patria in Rome, the White House in Washington DC, or the Statue of Liberty and Central Station in New York.

A visit to the quarries is a historical and naturalistic experience; you will learn about the hard work of marble miners and will also be able to admire artistic pieces that showcase marble artists’ exquisite craftsmanship.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

17

LAKE GARDA

18

ART AND CULTURE

VITTORIALE DEGLI ITALIANI Poet Gabriele D’Annunzio’s housemuseum, Vittoriale degli Italiani, overlooks Lake Garda and is one of the most fascinating examples of ‘Artist’s Home’. Visitors are astonished by the variety and originality of the thousands of objects present in ‘Prioria’, the name he gave to his house. It is equally surprising to discover the bow of a cruiser (Puglia ship) nestled in the promontory among the greenery. The discovery continues with MAS 96, the anti-submarine motorboat used for the ‘Bakar mockery’ (a military raid that D’Annunzio led in the Croatian Bay of Bakar), the cars of the poet, and the Sva plane used in 1918 for his propaganda flight over Vienna.

It is also interesting to visit D’Annunziothe Hero Museum, where objects narrating his military career are displayed. He participated in many heroic actions during World War I and the Occupation of Rijeka (Fiume).

The new museum ‘Secret D’Annunzio’ contains 150 precious and common use objects that he used throughout his life, and contemporary artwork inspired by the poet. Vittoriale is an absolutely fascinating place, one of the most visited museums in Italy, and a not-to-miss stop for everyone vacationing on Lake Garda.

ROCCA AND UGO DA COMO HOUSE-MUSEUM The town of Lonato boasts an exceptional monumental complex. Even the most demanding tourists will find it worth visiting. The scenic set of buildings, gardens, and parks belongs to the Ugo Da Como Foundation and dominates the town centre. The grandiose castle, called Rocca (11th century) is one of the widest fortifications in Lombardy. The

Civic Ornithological Museum housed inside the castle covers the entire Italian ornithological landscape.

The house-museum of Senator Ugo Da Como (1869-1941) is at the foot of the castle. The guided tour touches twenty richly furnished rooms and the outstanding library with over 50,000 ancient books and illuminated manuscripts. The beauty of the town of Lonato, which has retained the aspect it had under the Venetian domination, justifies making this a full-day trip. Visit the Foundation, eat in the area, and stroll around the historic centre to discover Venetian works of art in the churches and along the ancient roads.

ISOLA DEL GARDA Close to the Brescian shore of Lake Garda, at a stone’s throw from the town of San Felice del Benaco, for centuries this island was the expression of the highest mystical tension (St. Francis founded a small community here). Today, its charm comes from an outstanding villa in Venetian Neo-Gothic style, designed by architect Luigi Rovelli at the beginning of the 20th century. It is an imposing, harmonious building with a wealth of interesting architectural elements.

Degrading terraces and Italian gardens cover the island, from the villa to the lake.

The luscious vegetation includes local and exotic plants, rare fragrances and flowers, and a harmonious forest of pines, cypresses, acacias, lemons, magnolias, and agave trees. Isola del Garda is magic and mystery.

PREHISTORICAL PILEDWELLINGS IN THE ALPS Prehistorical Pile-Dwellings in the Alps became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

19

2011. These are remains of prehistorical villages situated on the shore of lakes or rivers, dating between 5,000 and 500 B.C. These remains include portions of buildings, relics, and organic material.

In the Brescia region, they were found in Desenzano del Garda (in an area called Lavagnone), Sirmione (Lugana Vecchia and Belvedere), Manerba (Gabbiano di San Sivino), and Polpenazze del Garda (Lucone). These sites attract university students and researchers from all Europe because of their unique characteristics. Excavation work is still ongoing but it has already unveiled ample areas of these ancient villages and a wealth of archaeological findings that are fundamental to understand the interaction of humans and the environment during the centuries, an why people chose to live concentrated in a large village or scattered among a series of smaller settlements.

To learn more, you can visit G. Rambotti Museum in Desenzano and Valle Sabbia Archaeological Museum in Gavardo. It is also possible to register for guided tours of the sites and even see how excavation work is performed.

beach underneath, are the remains of the Roman villa that has been called ‘Catullus’ grotto’ since the 16th century.

The grotto is what remains of a large villa which belonged to poet Catullus and was built between the end of the 1st century B.C. and the beginning of the 1st century A.D. It is one of the most fascinating Roman archaeological remains in northern Italy – a site that makes visiting Sirmione even more enticing.

Sirmione, located on the peninsula called with the same name, is one of the most charming towns in Lake Garda.

The medieval centre is only accessible through the drawbridge of a castle built in the 1200s. Its towers and crenellated walls are a must-visit because from here you can admire the entire lake and the hills surrounding it.

On one side of the castle lies a perfectly preserved dock. The Church of San Pietro in Mavino (perhaps built by local fishermen in the 8th century) is just a few steps further, and then the visit continues among shops, traditional restaurants, and beautiful houses that were able to capture the soul of Maria Callas, who lived here for an extended period of time.

CATULLUS’ GROTTO AND SIRMIONE CASTLE

ROME AND THE MIDDLE AGES ON THE SHORES OF THE LAKE

At the tip of the Sirmione peninsula, dominating the lake and the white pebble

20

Catullus’ Grotto is what remains of a

large Roman villa situated on the tip of the Sirmione peninsula. It belonged to Latin poet Gaius Valerius Catullus and is one of the most grandiose examples of private buildings in northern Italy.

From its dominant position, it offers unparalleled views and attracts millions of tourists. The Roman itinerary continues in Desenzano with the remains of another important villa and Museo Rambotti, which displays the oldest plough in the world (2,000 B.C.). This historical route continues with the Romanesque parish churches of Sant’Andrea in Maderno, Sant’Emiliano in Padenghe, and San Francesco in Gargnano. A detour worth making the Sanctuary of Montecastello in Tignale, built over a dramatic overhang overlooking the lake.

THE PLACES OF THE REPUBLIC OF SALÒ A more recent historical itinerary includes the area where the Italian Social Republic, or Republic of Salò, was founded at the end of World War II. Today, most of the historical buildings in Toscolano Maderno, Salò, and Gargnano have become magnificent hotels and public offices. This is the opportunity for a true journey through art, architecture, and contemporary history.

TOWER OF ST. MARTINO A 74m tower stands among the hills surrounding Lake Garda. This building, decorated with frescoes depicting the Risorgimento Wars (Italian Independence Wars) is one of the most visited sites in southern Lake Garda.

There are also an ossuary and small museum dedicated to the battle of San Martino and Solferino in 1859. The violent battle (39 thousand men were

incapacitated to fight, 11 thousand died, and 23 thousand were injured) inspired Jean-Henry Dunant, who had visited the battlefield, to create the principles that would lead to the foundation of the Red Cross. Every year, the battle is reenacted.

The surrounding area is covered in vineyards of San Martino grapes, farms, and agritourisms.

THE PAPER VALLEY From the 1400s and until a few decades ago, this valley in the municipality of Toscolano produced paper, in particular for the Serenissima Republic of Venice.

The evoking landscape, which those who follow the nearby coastal road don’t even imagine is there, and the richness of historical remains attract several visitors.

The visit includes buildings, the paper museum and the surrounding natural area, full of steep slopes and narrow gorges where the rivers that gave power to the paper mills flow.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

21

CAMONICA VALLEY

THE ROCK ENGRAVINGS: FIRST UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE OF ITALY

22

ART AND CULTURE

T

he rocks of Camonica Valley were engraved for 10,000 years.

This is a form of writing before writing, a form of expression that has significant religious and social meaning for the prehistoric populations who lived here. It is possible to admire some of these rocks by going to one of the many natural protected areas, true outdoor museums open to individual tourists and educational tours: Parco Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri (Capo di Ponte), Riserva Naturale delle Incisioni Rupestri di Ceto, Cimbergo e Paspardo, Parco Nazionale dei Massi di Cemmo (Capo di Ponte), Parco Archeologico di Seradina Bedolina (Capo di Ponte), Parco del Lago Moro (Luine and Corni Freschi areas near Darfo Boario Terme), Parco di Asinino-Anvoia (Ossimo), Parco Archeo-minerario di Sellero, and multi-theme itinerary Coren delle Fate (Sonico). In 1979, the rock engravings were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the first such site in Italy.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

23

24

ARCHEOPARK

CERVENO VIA CRUCIS

This theme park enables visitors to travel back 15,000 years and learn about the ancient Camuni population, the first prehistorical inhabitants of Camonica Valley.

The park at the foot of Monticolo Mountain (Boario Terme) covers an area of about 100,000sqm and is surrounded by nature, in particular chestnut forests.

It represents an ideal combination of learning and fun, a day in a relaxing environment but at the same time an adventure for parents and children who, under the guidance of cultural activity leaders, will enter prehistoric villages, visit caves and hunting shelters, learn about the lives of hunters, craftsmen, and the first sedentary farmers, climb over pile-dwellings, and penetrate into the high walls and palisades of the fortified village built inside the forest.

There are also ‘prehistory labs’ for hands-on learning activities on how people in the past lit a fire, ground wheat, melt metals, shot an arrow, built musical instruments, and traveled with a pirogue.

“The most unknown and emotional Italian Sacred Mountain”.

This is how Via Crucis (Stations of the Cross) in the Cerveno parish church was described.

It is the work of Beniamino Simoni, wood carver in Brescia, who lived in the small town of Cerveno starting from 1752 and created most of the 198 real-size statues in wood and plaster, set in 14 chapels to depict Jesus’ Passion.

The unifying style and the fact that the same materials were used for all the statues convey a very harmonious feeling.

This work, almost hidden in a small town at the foot of a mountain, has significant artistic value and is a noteworthy expression of the wood carving tradition in Camonica Valley.

ART AND CULTURE

ROMANINO ROUTE This short itinerary will unveil one of the great Renaissance artists of Brescia.

Indeed, the towns of Pisogne, Breno, and Bienno contain the most important works of Girolamo Romano, called ‘Il Romanino’.

The itinerary starts in Pisogne, just north of Lake Iseo, moving north along Camonica Valley. The painter worked here in mid-1500, frescoing the vault and the walls of the Church of Santa Maria della Neve (16th century). This church is a true jewel; the interior is decorated with the cycle of the Passion which culminates with a dramatic Crucifixion.

The second stop is the Church of San Antonio in Breno, half-way along the valley. Here, in 1535, Romanino frescoed the presbytery with crowded scenes of characters-spectators, positioned in large architectural framing elements. The Civic Museum of Breno displays the Crucifixion, oil on canvas, an example of the painter’s

artistic maturity.

The last stop is Bienno, in the 15th century church of Santa Maria Annunciata. Here, Romanino’s paintings have more subdued tones and fainter colours. The three large side walls depict the marriage of the Virgin, the meeting with Joachim and Anne, and Mary’s presentation in the Temple.

ADAMELLO WHITE WAR MUSEUM The ‘Adamello White War’ Museum, in the town of Temù, preserves and promotes the cultural, historical, and environmental elements that characterised World War I in Italy, which was fought mostly along high mountain fronts. It was called ‘White War’ because it was fought along the Alps and in particular along the Adamello front, where there has been the highest number of cruel battles in mountainous areas, whitened by ice and snow.

The area stretches from the Stelvio Pass to Lake Garda, along high peaks.

The Museum in Temù displays historical relics, weapons, and various documents pertaining to the war and the armaments. Educational activities are organised here as well as cultural and historical research initiatives, using books, documents, and multimedia tools.

The guided excursions and tours of the trenches, casemates and battlefields are particularly interesting. These sites are all high in the mountains and offer fascinating views of the area and a window over a very important moment in history for Italy.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

25

TROMPIA VALLEY

26

ART AND CULTURE

PAUL VI COLLECTION OF CONTEMPORARY ART This collection was created thanks to several donations by the Brescian Pope, and is located in Concesio by his birth place.

It gathers and displays seven thousand 20th century paintings, drawings, prints, medals, and sculptures which belonged to Giovanni Battista Montini (1897-1978), who became Pope Paul VI. Famous authors present in the collection are Matisse, Chagall, Picasso, Dalí, Magritte, Rouault, Severini, Morandi, Fontana, Manzù, Hartung, and Guitton.

This testifies to the rich cultural exchange between the artists and the Pope and his secretary Pasquale Macchi.

Besides the main collection, there are specific sections dedicated to graphic design and medals, and a large learning center.

IRON AND MINE ROUTE In Trompia Valley, you will be able to experience an exciting journey in time visiting the places where its iron production and culture developed. The city of Brescia has largely benefited from this strategic production right at its outskirts.

The tunnels and outdoor equipment of iron mining sites, furnaces, foundries, and smithies constitute the main stops along the route. They have been transformed into industrial archaeology museums and are open to the public.

They can be explored through themed itineraries, educational activities, reenactments, exhibits, and events proposed by Sistema Museale di Valle

Trompia (Trompia Valley Museum Authority).

SACRED ART ROUTE The conspicuous amount of religious archeological and artistic heritage present in Trompia Valley’s churches, sanctuaries, and parish churches reflects how significant spirituality is for the locals.

This itinerary was developed to promote the numerous sites scattered along the valley but also the masterpieces that they house (frescoes, paintings, and wooden sculptures), attributed to great Brescian masters such as Romanino, Moretto, and Foppa. These sites can be visited individually or with specialised guides that the Trompia Valley Museum Authority can provide.

THE FOREST NARRATES Upper and mid-Trompia Valley’s economy is still based on mountain farming in nearby woods and breeding, while the lower valley has vineyards, fruit orchards, and chestnuts.

The farming world is intertwined with nature, culture, and history. This itinerary, called Il Bosco Racconta (the forest narrates) is promoted by Trompia

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

27

Valley’s Eco-Museum and originates from the willingness to transmit ancient knowledge, involving visitors in life and work experiences strongly connected to the valley, along ethnographic and naturalistic paths.

28

OTHER MUSEUMS Other museums in the valley are Lodrino’s Ethnographic Museum, dedicated to forest, breeding, and mountain crafts and Constellation Museum in Lumezzane, which explores the sky with the Planetarium and Serafino Zani Observatory.

29

SABBIA VALLEY

30

ART AND CULTURE

THE SACRED AND THE PROFANE Sabbia Valley is military history, archeology, sacred art, and at the same time nature and outdoor sports. This region boasts forts and castles, smithies and foundries, wood carving and violin-making, ethnographic and labour museums, museums dedicated to Italian Resistance, and hidden masterpieces by Titian and Tintoretto. All this immersed in an authentic paradise for year-round outdoor sports lovers.

BAGOLINO CARNIVAL It is among the most traditional and fun folkloric events in the Brescia province.

The origins of this Carnival are very old and still not certain. It is believed that the music comes from Central Europe and the dances from Trentino and Tyrol. Traditional costumes parade along the town roads: elegant dancers, music players, and mischievous disguised characters. The keywords

are irony, colours, and conviviality.

ROCCA D’ANFO Rocca d’Anfo represents a very interesting military microcosm. It is composed of trenches, covered roads, spaces for the soldiers, and army barracks. Thanks to its strategic position by Lake Idro, it was a highly coveted base by the Venetian, French, and Austrian armies. Today, it is an appreciated tourist destination even if the buildings are still being restored. It is a medium-level hike, and you need to be accompanied by an authorised guide.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

31

LAKE ISEO AND FRANCIACORTA

32

ART AND CULTURE

MONASTERY OF SAN PIETRO IN LAMOSA The Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa offers an outstanding view of the Peat Moss, a natural reserve since 1983.

The Monastery was built in 1083 in Romanesque style, but was subject to restructuring and expansions. This building is a true monument to 1,000 years of European history; although traces of the different construction periods are visible, it still conveys a feeling of harmony.

It was privatised at the end of the 18th century and partially degraded, but was restored in recent years and opened to the public. The restauration unveiled several frescoes in the church and Disciplini oratory, dating from the 11th and 16th centuries and inspired by famous Italian and international works.

Intimate and charming, the small cloister has a beautiful garden with spectacular hortensia bushes and two secular shrubs.

RODENGO SAIANO OLIVETAN ABBEY San Nicola Abbey is one of the most monumental religious buildings in Italy.

It was founded in the 11th century but prospered starting from 1446 when the Olivetan friars obtained the permission to use it from the priory of Rodengo.

The complex became public property but in 1969 it was given back for use to the friars, who returned it to its original purpose. This marked the beginning of an imposing restauration work, which returned to their old splendour the church, the late 16th century cloister with paired columns, the small 15th century rustic cloister, the refectory, the monumental gallery, and various rooms that display masterpieces from the main

local artists, especially from the 16th and 17th centuries. The abbey also has a book restauration laboratory.

VIA VALERIANA, BETWEEN THE LAKE AND THE VALLEY The ancient pilgrim route that connected Brescia to the Camonica Valley starts from Pisogne and ends in Pilzone d’Iseo.

This is a panoramic route alongside the lake with small votive chapels, village churches, chestnut and beech tree woods, and Zone, with the Rock Pyramid Regional Park. The silence of nature and the romantic walk create emotions and are conducive to meditation. You walk and admire fascinating views, forgetting for a moment the effort it takes to climb some steep slopes, which are nonetheless accessible to everyone. This is a popular activity because of the gentle beauty around you.

OME FORGE The Averoldi forge is named after an old family of farming tool producers.

Located in the town of Ome, the forge is open to the public. It dates back to the 15th century and has a still-functioning water-powered wheel which moves the forge and allows demonstrations of how iron was worked. The forge is part of a fascinating complex of rural buildings in Borgo del Maglio where it is possible to discover the culture and experience that centuries of craftsmanship have created.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

33

BRESCIA PLAIN

34

ART AND CULTURE

TIEPOLO IN VEROLANUOVA The church of San Lorenzo in Verolanuova is one of the biggest parish churches in Lombardy. This small village is in the fertile Brescia plain, not far from the main city, but the artistic value it contains is undisputable: two large paintings by Venetian painter Gianbattista Tiepolo, dating from 1740.

One depicts Manna falling from the sky, and the other (exactly opposite the first, in the same chapel) Melchisedech’s sacrifice. Both canvases measure 55sqm.

Size is not the only reason why the visitor is attracted to these paintings: their quality is superior.

The church is a true artistic treasure chest. It also boasts the first cupola with overhead lantern built in the Brescia region.

Surrounded by countryside, in between fields, with a moat that protected it from assaults and various dangers, it is the noble element of a splendid rural village, with its large, elegant internal courtyards.

Old houses-workshops with their traditional entrances can still be seen in the village centre.

One inn and two traditional trattorias have revived the old village and offer yet another reason to visit this lovely place.

A very popular event is Mercato della Terra (Earth’s Market), a farmers’ market organised by Slow Food every third Sunday of the month in the centre.

After buying produce from small organic producers, everyone eats together in an atmosphere of heartfelt conviviality.

PADERNELLO CASTLE This imposing residential castle was built between the 15th and 16th centuries by the noble Martinengo family.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE

35

www.bresciatourism.it #visitbrescia