Nature Holiday in Estonia by Visit Estonia

NATURE HOLIDAY IN ESTONIA Your Way Makes Your Day Âť visitestonia.com

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10 REASONS TO SPEND A NATURE HOLIDAY IN ESTONIA CLEAN AIR IN THE COUNTRY AND CITY A 2011 study conducted by the World Health Organization declared Estonian cities to have the cleanest air in the world, but you can fill your lungs with the fresh stuff anywhere in the country. Fresh country air – purified by extensive forested areas and westerly winds off the sea – has kept Estonians ruddy-cheeked and care-free for centuries. (Organic cow’s milk and apples right off the tree help, too.) LOTS OF ROOM AND FEW PEOPLE The recipe for a good nature holiday starts with uncluttered views and primeval nature. There are places in Estonia where you can hike without seeing another living soul for kilometres – the country is the size of Denmark or Switzerland but has many times fewer people, and much of the population lives in the capital. Yet the roads are in good condition and the trails lead to all of the more solitary corners of the country. Cell phone coverage is practically everywhere, making it hard to get hopelessly lost. UNSPOILED NATURE Estonia has many protected reserves where strict controls have been imposed on human activity. Entirely 18% of Estonia’s land area is covered by national parks and nature reserves, and 7% of the country is mire and bogland. Forests cover a whopping 50% of Estonia. IMPRESSIVE BIODIVERSITY Both the animal and plant kingdom are extremely diverse – for instance, one square metre of Estonian wooded meadow was found to contain 76 species of plants, a world record. Unlike many other European Union member states, here wolves, bears and lynx roam free. FOREST AND SEA AN HOUR AWAY The short distances allow the maximum experience to be packed into one holiday: bog walking, canoe trips and mushroom picking are all a short hop from one another, and it’s hard to think of two disparate activities that can’t be fit into one day if that’s what you want to do.

RICH FORESTS AND BOGS Estonian food culture and other traditions are closely intertwined with nature. Plants are used in beauty procedures and products, as well as for stocking larders. Each year, about 80 tonnes of lingonberries, bilberries and cranberries and 50 tonnes of mushrooms ripen in Estonian forests. An app helps you find the fungi, while a State Forest Management Centre app allows you to register and cut your own Christmas tree from the woods. SEA AND ISLANDS GALORE The coastline of little Estonia is 3,800 diverse kilometres long and more than 2,200 islands can be found, including the ones in inland bodies of water. There’s a wide range of them, from the isolated small island of Ruhnu to the biggest, the beloved holiday destination Saaremaa. Hundreds of islets and holms are a favourite spot for birds to nest and seals as well. If a charter yacht trip isn’t your cup of tea, the beaches offer swimming, sunbathing and kayaking. A MECCA FOR BIRDWATCHERS Estonia is located along the migratory routes of Arctic water birds, and offers a good deal more suitable stopovers than neighbouring countries. This makes for ideal conditions for amateur ornithologists brief periods. In addition, nature cameras have been installed, allowing you to keep up to date with the daily lives of birds and other animals over the Internet. FIVE SEASONS Besides the four temperate zone seasons, Estonia also has a fifth season, when Soomaa National Park in the southwest becomes flooded for kilometres in all directions, offering the unique opportunity of canoeing through the forest in early spring. The summer solstice is magical, too – on this day the sun is above the horizon for over 18 hours. Stargazers can delight in August nights, when the Perseid meteor showers are visible, and there’s only six hours of daylight during the winter solstice. DRIVE ON WATER In many winters, when the ice layer on the sea exceeds 20 cm, Europe’s longest ice road is opened, allowing people to drive between the two largest islands, Saaremaa and Hiiumaa. The 30 km long route is practical, too, helping save valuable time. A few years ago, the crew from the motor show Top Gear gave another ice road, the one to the smaller island of Vormsi, international attention.

TALLINN–NARVA NARVA–TARTU MAP

TALLINN–NARVA The Tallinn Old Town was why Estonia’s capital has the nickname of “tower city,” but Tallinn is also a dramatically green town. The city is spread out over a number of peninsulas jutting out into the sea and thus sea views play a major role for the city’s identity. Beaches within city limits and the cries of seagulls and singing of nightingales on spring nights are another hallmark of Tallinn. Tallinn offers many possibilities to be in the middle of nature without leaving the city. Paljassaare, or the valley of the Pirita River, or the bogs on the western edge of the city, make a good place for extended outing. 1

The Estonian Natural History Museum, hidden away in the heart of the Old Town, is a heady distillation of Estonia’s natural world. This is a great place to visit before heading out into the real thing, as it instils a good idea of what awaits you. What does Estonia’s heaviest mammal, the moose, look like? What about the shy flying squirrel, which in Europe is found only in Estonia and Finland? How many metres long was the biggest fish caught in Esto-

nia? The discovery room allows you to experience everything the way animals do – for instance, seeing things through the eyes of a fish or fly. You can try out how your voice echoes in the forest. Forearmed with knowledge and keener senses, you will get even more out of one of Europe’s most unspoiled natural environments. 2 The internationally acclaimed Tallinn Zoo offers

a chance to see 10,000 individual animals and more than 500 species – a small city’s worth. Stretching over 89 hectares and dripping in greenery, it’s a favourite place for a nature break, strolls and picnics, enough to last the whole day. The collection of horned mammals is worldclass, but the zoo also has a representative selection of eagles and hawks. Through the thick glass, you can marvel at colourful schools of fish or wave to a crocodile. Various monkeys always put on a show. You can say hello to the water birds in the middle of their nesting area, along a special trail. Kids have a petting zoo and adventure trail at its edge. 3

TARTU-SOUTHERN ESTONIA-PÄRNU

Estonian nature never fails to amaze

PÄRNU–WESTERN ESTONIA–ISLANDS–TALLINN

Route 1:

TALLINN–NARVA Kadriorg Park

As a green city, Tallinn is full of parks, the most famous of them being the 85-hectare Kadriorg Park, whose lush landscape is dotted with art and architecture treasures. The grand complex commissioned by Peter the Great includes a palace and other historical buildings, Baroque garden, fountains and pavilions, an imposing swan pond and a large English-style park. Other buildings converted into historical museums are

also in the neighbourhood. The latest addition to Kadriorg Park is Kumu – the centre of the Art Museum of Estonia – where a permanent exhibition gives a good overview of Estonian art through history, enhanced by rotating exhibitions. The park has also been the seat of the Estonian head of state since the first era of independence. When the flag is flying on the building, that means the president is currently in Estonia. 4 The Tallinn Botanic Garden is easy to find – just

use the highest building in the country, the TV Tower, as your landmark. This plant paradise not far from the din of the city features a landscape created with great care. The show goes on until late fall, but tropical species are right at home in the greenhouses year-round. Before you visit, check out the Botanic Garden’s calendar, as a number of concerts and informative theme days are held.

Seal-waching

Let’s start touring the limestone coast north of Estonia, heading an easterly direction. Right af5 ter leaving Tallinn, Prangli is to our left, a small island with many large boulders. The island was fortunate in passing through the wars mostly unscrathed, and the local ways of life have survived. A place for pleasant walks, the island hosts summer festivals related to the sea and coastal traditions. Seal-watching is possible in the vicinity.

On the southern edge of Harju County, just a short side trip from the country’s main intercity 6 highway to Tartu, is Tuhala Witch’s Well, which starts “boiling over” in spring. Legend has it that witches are taking a sauna there, but geologists have determined that the actual reason behind the rare phenomenon. In the spring, snowmelt flows into karst caves, increasing the pressure in underwater conduits to such a level that the well pumps out 100 litres of water per second. 7

Kõrvemaa Nature Reserve can be reached conveniently by train or car. The Ice Age, which endowed Estonia with exciting surface relief forms, has shown itself to be a master artist here, depositing ridges across the area. Hiking and ski trails trace many of them. Various types of forest alternate with bogs and mires, and lakes can be glimpsed here and there. Nature

TALLINN–NARVA

More and more appetizing fish restaurants are opening up along the coast not far east of Tallinn area. New restaurants like Noa on the border of Tallinn and Viimsi municipality, Ruhe in Neeme Village and OKO in Kaberneeme are leading the way, becoming firm favourites for gastronomists. MerMer, a restaurant operated out of a home in KolgaAabla, only opens up by special reservation. Keep your nose and eyes peeled elsewhere along the coast, as new culinary temples will go up.

A dip in a bog lake

is largely untouched by man here, and thus retiring forest creatures can be seen– eagles, black storks, even bear and lynx. The autumnal bog landscapes is a riot of colour, but summer mornings in the wetlands can be just as inspiring. A trip through such a landscape on snowshoes even in summer – the way old Estonians did it – is worth it. Kõrvemaa hiking and ski centre is one facility that rents them. Historically, the old snowshoes were fashioned out of bracken or leather, but today’s synthetic ones can safely support your weight over the bog mat as well.

Tuhala Witch’s Well

TALLINN–NARVA

waterfall when it is frozen solid. Geology buffs should note the Ordovician outcrops exposed behind the waterfall; the rock is about 480 million years old.

Jägala Waterfall 8

Jägala Waterfall is a majestic sight by Estonia’s flatland standards. A 50-metre-wide river spills over an eight-metre-high limestone cliff, and of course it is most impressive during high water in spring. Thrills and chills (and potential selfie nirvana) are guaranteed for those who dare balance on the somewhat slippery stones behind the curtain of falling water. The place is far from deserted in winter, as people flock to see the

Those with time only for a day trip are recom9 mended to visit Viru Bog, which is within Lahemaa National Park. The 3.5-km-long boardwalk is kept in good condition and the observation tower is accessible even to baby carriages or wheelchairs. Besides the view from the platform, take time to enjoy the plants growing by the trail – Viru Bog is home to the carnivorous honeydew plant – fortunately its tastes are limited to flies. Fragrances on this hike are courtesy of Labrador tea (Ledrum palustre). Breathing air thick with this bog plant can have an intoxicating effect on some people, causing headache, while others find that it relieves headache. A dip in a bog lake is unforgettable – the water is very pure and quite stimulating as the temperature difference between gradients can be as much as 10 degrees C. In summer, be sure to include a swim in the sea on your itinerary, as the coast east of Tallinn all the way to Narva is indented with many inviting bays. Among sandy beaches worth a visit are Võsu and Karepa, while the fishing village of Käsmu is an area rich in cultural events. There are plenty of other idyllic fishing villages along the way, such as Altja.

Altja fishing village

TALLINN–NARVA Kiviõli Adventure Centre

Lahemaa National Park, superb as it is, has three particular gems: Palmse, Sagadi and Vihula 10 manors. Palmse Manor is home to the park in11 formation centre, Sagadi Manor to a forest mu12 seum, while Vihula Manor is a luxurious eco-spa with accommodations. As you travel through the Lahemaa region, a stop at Oandu Beaver Trail is recommended. The kilometre-long minihike provides a view of the deep Altja river valley and the handiwork of beavers in the field of landscape architecture. The peaceful views of the landscape become 13 spiked with adrenaline at Kiviõli Adventure Centre, open year-round. In the winter, when the artificial hill of ash from oil shale mining is blanketed in snow, it is open for snowboarding and downhill skiing, while in summer the trails are open to hikers. Speeds of 80 km/h can be attained on a 600-metre long zipline. On and around the hill, safari trails are open to wheeled vehicles. After the fun on the earth’s surface, 14 Kohtla Mining Park beckons, for a taste of a miner’s life – passageways 8 metres underground give an idea of the amount of oil shale – 48 million tonnes – that has been extracted here over 64 years of mining operations.

Sagadi Manor

TALLINN–NARVA

former nobles’ residence make up a ensemble that is closely integrated with the natural setting. A spa and restaurant located on the manor are highly regarded. From Saka Manor, the cliff continues east to 16 lovely Toila Oru Park, established back in the

Ontika Limestone Cliff

tsarist era with a castle, which was destroyed in the Second World War. The park has regained much of its former glory and the banks of the River Pühajõgi offer enough walking for several hours. The park has over 200 species of trees and shrubs, and one of the few surviving from the old days is situated on an outcropping by the sea – a pavilion where the former owner, Estonia’s first president Konstantin Päts liked to have his morning coffee and read the newspapers. The park also has one of several caves that has survived partially – Silver Spring Cave, a source of clear ice-cold water. 17 Narva-Jõesuu, also dubbed the Nordic Riviera

15 Ontika Limestone Cliff is one of Estonia’s most

impressive landmarks – the northern limestone cliff runs uninterrupted here for 20 kilometres, peaking at a height of 56 metres, at Ontika. The best place to enjoy the sight is at Saka Manor, where steps lead down to the sea and a welldesigned hiking trail showcases the area. There is no other manor in Estonia that towers so high over its environs. The restored manor park and

by the first generation of vacationers – originally from St. Petersburg – has the longest sandy beach in the country – 7.5 km long – and historical timber villas with wood trim. The spas here are the lifeblood of the small town’s economy, and line the seaside parks. The selection ranges from more old-school establishments with a sanatorium vibe to more modern, upwardly mobile spa operations.

Toila Oru Park

NARVA–TARTU

Route 2:

Narva River

NARVA–TARTU 18 Estonia’s easternmost city of Narva boasts a

grand citadel, built as the residence of the Danish King’s viceroy. The big and broad Narva River flowing a hundred metres away is the eastern border of the European Union, and separates Estonia from Russia. Experienced service providers lead sailing and canoe trips on the river, and those not drawn to aquatic sports can take a romantic walk down the illuminated trail running along the riverbank, featuring breathtaking views of citadel fortifications in both countries. The river is at its most majestic during springtime high water, when the flow rate quintuples, to 2,000 cubic metres of water per second. From July to late winter, tasty river lampreys (Lampetra fluviatili) are fished out of the water. Lamprey is a treat no matter how it is prepared - roasted over glowing coals, marinated with bay leaves and allspice, or smoked. Heading to the south, we reach the ancient forests of Alutaguse. Very sparsely settled by humans, they are home to lynx and eagles. There’s a theoretical chance of seeing a flying squirrel (Teromys volans), which is able to glide for distances up to 40 metres. Unfortunately, it has become rare due to the disappearance

of its prime habitat – great hollow aspens. But the forests are populated by a healthy number of brown bear (Ursus arctos), which is believed to number about 700 in Estonia. In a special huts equipped with bunks and other amenities, lucky wildlife observers have seen as many as 11 of the beasts prowling at night.

Alutaguse – best place for bear-waching

19 Adrenaline also flows at Alutaguse Adventure

NARVA–TARTU

Park, which offers activities like snow tubing (and the same in summer, on artificial surfaces). Swing through the trees like Tarzan at a height of nine metres (with an immediate drop of two metres before the safety mechanism kicks in) or zip across a lake for 330 metres – that’s sure to make any flying squirrels in the vicinity envious. For a perfect day at the beach, head to the 20 strand at Kauksi, considered the most beautiful

part of the 30 kilometres of sand beach lining Lake Peipus – an ideal place to swim, sunbathe, go sailing or wandering through the pines in the dunes. 21 For souvenirs, head to Avinurme ’Way of Life

Centre’ and Woodworking Centre, where local woven bark baskets and other woodworking items are available, plus soaps and jewellery. The kitchen at Avinurme uses only organic or wild ingredients and serves dishes like game and smoked bream from the lake, accompanied by the local bread. Lake Peipus is considered one of the best fishing lakes in Europe and home to 35 fish species. As to how to try one’s own hand at catching them, 22 the Peipsimaa Visitors Centre in Kolkja Village provides more information. The biggest species in the lake, the Wels catfish (Silurus glanis), can reach a weight of 152 kilograms. But pursuing the small smelt (Osmerus eperlanus) can also be

The famous onions of the Lake Peipus region

fun – this finger-long fish smells like a cucumber and if dried, is beloved local beer snack. Fishing continues in winter and when the lake is under a thick sheet of ice. In this season, jeeps go on joyrides, their igloo-sized wheels easily contending with ridges and rough snowpack.

Ice fishing on Lake Peipus

NARVA–TARTU Ice Age Centre

Besides fish, onions are a mainstay of the Lake Peipus region’s cuisine, and they’re considered the best in Estonia. It’s hard to find an equal in colour or form, so stock up. The Onion Route touring route that winds through the villages leads past the homes of the Old Believers, a conservative sect that split from the Orthodox Church and migrated to Estonia centuries ago. The route also passes Alatskivi Castle inspired by Balmoral in Scotland, and of course many possibilities to break the journey with a hearty meal.

creatures as the cave lion or mammoth, experience the traces of the Ice Age interwoven with folk legends, and look for answers to questions such as whether people can prevent another Ice Age. If the weather and water are not too cold, you can reflect on your museum experiences at picturesque Lake Saadjärv, which is in the top 10 lakes in the country both in terms of area and depth. A floating sauna on the lake allows visitors to jump into the deep, 25-metre lake waters straight from the steam room.

23 Elistvere Animal Park, initially conceived as a

home for orphaned or injured wild animals, is now a shelter for the offspring (and successive generations) of its original denizens. Here you can see native Estonian wild animals and some more exotic creatures as well, in as natural an environment as possible. Indoors, become acquainted with the lives of a variety of rodents. Under the big sky, check out moose, reindeer, wild boar, roe deer, red deer, brown bear, lynx, foxes, raccoon dogs, squirrels, stoats, European polecat, European hare and the European bison, which roamed wild in Estonia for the last time more than 1,000 years ago. For a trip even farther back in time, visit the Ice

24 Age Centre, a unique research and learning cen-

tre for people of all ages. On three floors of exhibits, you can get a better idea of such Ice Age

Elistvere Animal Park – a home for orphaned or injured wild animals

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Route 3:

TARTU–TOUR OF SOUTHERN ESTONIA–PÄRNU Estonia’s second-largest city, Tartu, the home of free spirits and a university with a distinguished history, lies on the 100-kilometre-long River Emajõgi (Mother River). The river was an important trade route between Russia and Western Hanseatic cities and is navigable today along its entire length. For an old-time riverboat

25 experience, embark on the Jõmmu barge. built

according to 500-year-old boat building traditions. Canoe trips are available near the river delta in the The River Emajõgi delta region nature reserve. Those with a fondness for less athletic pastimes can enjoy dinner on the oldest ship sailing Estonian inland waters Sisevete Saatkond (the Embassy of Inland Waters), whose hall with large glass windows can accommodate up to 100 people. A walk through the Toome Hill (Toomemägi) is especially exciting at night, when the owls in the trees are at their busiest and most vocal. “Toomemägi“ and “night “ are the keywords that lead to the Tartu Observatory, which is a UNESCO site. It was here that the university’s astronomers started celestial observations in 1814.

30 Botanical Gardens of the University of Tartu is

The Jõmmu – a traditional river boat

in full leaf and flower, with over 6,500 species of plants on display. Among others, the garden boasts Estonia’s thickest maple, with a circumference of more than 4.2 m. Other museums worth a visit are the University of Tartu Natural History Museum, which operates the Botanic Garden,

the Museum of Geology (collection of minerals, rock and fossils amassed over two centuries), the 31 Museum of Zoology (has the famous Koch col32 lection of bird eggs) and the Museum of Botany and Mycology (13,500 examples of fungi and a lichen herbarium with 90,000 examples). 33 Taevaskoda Hiking Trail leads deep into the na-

ture of the Ahja River valley, with picturesque views of the exposed sandstone of the river dell.

features such as huge ant nest mounds, some higher than human height and its bog lakes with refreshing, clean water, slightly acidic due to the sphagnum moss growing in the bog. 35 The manmade Piusa Caves penetrate into

sandstone and have a total length of over 10 kilometres. To ensure visitor safety, a platform has been built, and only guided tours are available, leaving the more unstable reaches of the caverns to seven known species of bats. The Piusa River valley hiking trail should be visited as well. It leads past the Härma Walls, Estonia’s highest outcroppings of Devonian sandstone, some of them towering 43 metres over the river. The Piusa, Ahja and Võhandu are all pleasant canoeing rivers.

Piusa Caves

The Seto region in southern Estonia is astonishing for its bounty of mushrooms. To make hunting mushrooms more rewarding, use the Google Play app Seeneaabits, which helps to identify 56 of the most important species in Estonia. For the complete experience, you can cook your haul of mushrooms over a open campfire at one of the charming State Forest Management Centre campsites.

Floodmeadows of the River Emajõgi

TARTU-SOUTHERN ESTONIA-PÄRNU

34 Meenikunno Hiking Trail attracts visitors with

complex. In snowier times of year, you can train with skiing pros. Beautiful Pühajärv (Holy Lake) is a great place to sunbathe and swim. Otepää Adventure Park adds spice to the mix, offering a 300-metre-long zipline and a catapult that propels you five storeys into the air. The largest body of water completely within Es38 tonia, Lake Võrtsjärv, is the site of the Lake Mu-

seum, and one of the best aquarium centres in the country. The more than 20 aquariums (some of the them in the floor) are home to 24 species of Estonian fish. The museum also has exhibits devoted to fishing gear, fossils, extinct fish and (fact-checked) fishermen’s stories. TARTU-SOUTHERN ESTONIA-PÄRNU

39 Visiting Centre of Lake Võrtsjärv provides infor-

mation on everything happening on and around the lake. Visitors can set sail on a historical ship and hardier individualists can hire their own boat or canoe. Historical sailing boat on Lake Võrtsjärv

36 The highest hill in the Baltics, Suur Munamägi

(Big Egg Hill) offers a vantage point for much of 37 Võru County and Viewing platform of Tehvandi

ski-jump hill offer the best view of the domelike hills of the Otepää region. On Big Egg Hill, the observation towers adds a few metres to the elevation, from 350 m above sea level you can survey the countryside in 50 km in all directions. The Tehvandi platform is lower but is just as picturesque and panoramic. The highest outdoor climbing wall in Estonia is part of the Tehvandi

If you’re in the Võrtsjärv area, the small city of Viljandi makes a good stop. Take a walk along the castle ruins, where the views have been compared to Switzerland, and then head out of 40 town westward, to Soomaa Nature Centre. Part of the European PAN Parks network, Soomaa is best discovered on a bog hike or canoe trip. Even a wheelchair-accessible bog hike is offered. Soomaa is the place that gave rise to the phrase “fifth season” – in most years, the big spring snowmelt raises the water level so high that visitors can canoe through forests, over roads and amidst farmhouses.

Hiking in Soomaa National Park

Heading on from Soomaa to the coast, the picturesque south-western Estonian beaches await. 41 The RMK (State Forest Management Centre’s) Kabli Nature Centre is your key to discovering them. The 1.8-km-long hiking trail that starts from the centre introduces different types of dunes. The two observation towers provide a look at the rich bird life. The nature centre has an indoor exhibition at the nature system. Rich in spas, the resort town and summer capital of Pärnu is a popular holiday destination. The coastal nature reserve of Pärnu covers 341 hectares of woods, lagoons and coastal meadows. This is also a pasture for city cows, as well as a favourite nesting place for birds and amphibians. A 600 m hiking trail with a viewing platform enables to walk above the backwaters and look for unique protected plants. The trail is wheelchair accessible. Pernova Environmental Education Centre has enough both for children and adults to discover. Valgerand Adventure Park near Pärnu is the right place for an active holiday.

Budget about two hours for the 2.2 km long 42 Tolkuse Nature and Study Trail. Highlights in-

clude Tolkuse bog, high pine-clad dunes and the view from the observation tower that on a clear day can extend to Kihnu Island, a UNESCO site.

Tolkuse Bog observation tower

TARTU-SOUTHERN ESTONIA-PÄRNU

A canoe trip in “fifth season”, Soomaa National Park

Panga Cliff

Route 4: PÄRNU–WESTERN ESTONIA–ISLANDS–TALLINN

PÄRNU–WESTERN ESTONIA– ISLANDS–TALLINN Heading north out of Pärnu, head first to 43 Matsalu National Park, the centre of which is on

Penijõe Manor. The flood meadows and grasslands of this area are extremely popular for all migratory birds and in spring and fall, millions of Arctic water birds pass over Matsalu. If you arrive in Matsalu during the migration, it is completely realistic prospect to see around 200 different species. As an added bonus, Matsalu is also a perfect spot to see a moose. Every autumn, hundreds of moose bulls gather on the flood meadows to spar playfully with their antlers, get the attention of the cows and sometimes even do battle. In spring, the mothers bring their calves out to the meadows to graze. While Matsalu’s main calling card is birds, the islands of western and north-western Estonia has a different connection with the visitors from 18

above – scientists say the region has been impacted by meteorites more than any other in the world. On Saaremaa Island, characterized by ju44 nipers and mossy stone walls, admire Kaali Lake, located in a crater left by a meteorite that struck the island more than 7,000 years ago, the biggest such “recent” impact in Europe. Western Estonia is a good spot to make a closer acquaintance with seals. The up to 300 kilo grey seal (Halichoerus grypus) can be encountered, along with the harbour seal, which is of Arctic origin (Phoca vitulina) and the cute-looking whiskered ringed seal (Pusa hispida), the official mascot of the 1980 Olympic regatta, which was 45 held in Tallinn. Loona Manor, the headquarters of Vilsandi National Park, offers a possibility of paddling a kayak out to watch the seals and even dive into the water among them.

Stuck at the computer? You can keep an eye on the doings of a number of animals via nature cameras. The hottest news about what bears and wild pigs are up to in northern Estonia, the conditions for seals in Vilsandi and deer bounding around in southern Estonia. There are other animal reality show camera – for the complete list, visit looduskalender.ee.

And we’re off by ferry to Estonia’s second47 largest island of Hiiumaa. Again a cosmological

digression in order: the island was formed 400 million years ago as the result of a meteorite impact. Today there is no more sign of an explosion that was equivalent to 25,000 Hiroshimas besides a faintly discernible trace of a circular wall, and Hiiumaa’s atmosphere is extraordi-

A white-tailed eagle, a protected species (Haliaetus albicilla)

narily stress-free. The surf, on the other hand, can be rough on the open-sea, Ristna peninsula side. The local nature centre has an exhibit of the various objects the sea has washed up over the years. From late May to November, a surfing gear rental outfit operates on Ristna cape. Sea kayakers, water trampolining enthusiasts, snorkelers and those fishing for a species called the sea needle or garfish (Belone belone) are also catered for. A “creeping pine” defies the salty sea winds – just a metre high, but with a five-metre wide top, the stunted and wizened specimen looks like sort of ground cover plant when seen from a distance.

Kaali Lake on Saaremaa Island

PÄRNU–WESTERN ESTONIA–ISLANDS–TALLINN

Next, we will continue past old windmills and houses comfortably ensconced under thick 46 thatched roofs to Panga Cliff, 21,3 metres high, and admire the breakers crashing above a shoal a couple hundred metres from shore. Wild orchids can be seen by the roadside or on the limestone barrens. All 36 species found in Estonia are under nature protection – it can take 15 years for these rare plants to develop from seed to the first flowers. A tiny piece of “Saaremaa marble” – the local dolomite – can be purchased.

49 Ristna Lighthouse was assembled in 1874 from

pieces designed in the practice of the Paris engineer Eiffel. Eiffel’s office also produced Estonia’s highest lighthouse that same decade – the 50 42.5-metre Tahkuna Lighthouse. 51 Certainly Kassari Island, connected to Hiiumaa

by causeway, is worth a visit, home to an unusual juniper forest. Kassari’s coastline is extraordinarily indented – despite having an area of only 15 square kilometres, it has 56 kilometres of sea border. One of the most romantic spots for a walk is Sääretirp, which ultimately disappears into the sea as a stony bar. 52 The island of Vormsi, historically settled by

Kõpu Lighthouse on Hiiumaa Island

Hiiumaa is famous for its historical lighthouses. 48 Massive Kõpu Lighthouse has been preventing

shipwrecks since 1531, which observers have incisively described as a “squat country woman, with a red braid and eyes agleam”. Incidentally, Kõpu is the third oldest continuously operating lighthouse in the world (some say the first).

coastal Swedes, features species that are rare in mainland Estonia. If you’re lucky, you might spot a natterjack toad (Epidalea calamita), while darkness brings out the brown long-eared bat (Plecotus auritus), who, thanks to its unusual flight mechanics sometimes appears to be hovering in place. The island is also home to the lynx (Lynx lynx) and the corn crake (Crex crex) can be heard. When danger looms, the latter prefers to flee toward the nearest grain rather than fly away. Vormsi is perfect for exploring on a rented bike.

PÄRNU–WESTERN ESTONIA–ISLANDS–TALLINN Bird-watching in Matsalu National Park

Thanks to the warm sea water – comparable to Pärnu’s – and sanatoriums offering curative mud procedures, the idyllic resort town of Haapsalu is an ideal place to pamper yourself with sophisticated pleasures – a romantic beach promenade and quaint houses with wooded trim conceal Bohemian cafes could steal your heart just as it once appealed to the Russian elite, from Tchaikovsky to the tsar’s family. Silma Nature Reserve near Haapsalu, whose six observation towers afford a good view over the shallow sea, reeds and coastal meadows, is a good bird watching spot.

formed over millions of years after a meteorite impact on Osmussaar – essentially Mother Nature fused the rock fragments back together. The 7–9-km wide Neugrund crater on the seabed near Osmussaar is one of the best preserved craters in coastal waters and can be reached by amateur divers.

Those with an urge for more active pursuits can 53 get their adrenaline fix at Roosta Adventure

Park, featuring a 60-metre zipline and tree canopy challenge trail. By special arrangement, the course can be negotiated at night. Those looking for a peaceful idyll derive pleasure from the unique “singing sands” of Roosta Beach. 54 A memorable experience is a day trip to Osmus-

saar, a rocky juniper-covered islet. The name means Odin’s grave and has Viking origins. The boulders on the island are made up of a unique mineral called Neugrund breccia, which was

Natterjack toad, a protected species (Epidalea calamita)

PÄRNU–WESTERN ESTONIA–ISLANDS–TALLINN

Sääretirp Peninnsula on Kassari Island

Nõva Landscape Protection Area

Along the north coast heading to Tallinn, you

Just a few dozen kilometres west of Tallinn is the

55 will see picturesque Nõva. Nõva Nature Centre

56 6 m high and 70 m wide Keila Waterfall, which

PÄRNU–WESTERN ESTONIA–ISLANDS–TALLINN

is your source for information, and it also boasts an exhibition on Arctic birds that stop over in north-western Estonia and the consequences of forest fires. Nõva beautiful pine forests are full of tasty lingonberries, healthful bilberries and sweet wild strawberries, to say nothing of the array of mushrooms in season. The Liivanõmme interpretive trail provides a good overview of the local nature; it runs past imaginatively twisted and contorted pine trees and sand dunes. The Peraküla area has more than a dozen small lakes surrounded by a protected species of grass, sawtooth sedge (Cladium mariscus), which has been called Estonia’s roughest-textured plant.

comes third after the Narva Waterfall (which has been altered by river rerouting) and Jägala, and forms a nice ensemble with two picturesque suspended bridges, Keila-Joa Manor and a diverse park. The sea cliff gains in height on the way back to Tallinn, reaching its apogee in this section at the 57 31-metre-high Türisalu cliff, which offers dramatic sea views. Back in Tallinn, it’s worth taking a short sea 58 cruise from the city centre. Naissaar is an ex-

citing place in terms of history and nature. Despite the feminine name (Woman Island), the thickly forested isle has been scarred by military activity, and fortifications are abundant. But the island is pristine enough, with forests full of boletus mushrooms and bog landscapes. In summer, the Nargen music festival and other summer performances enrich the cultural life. 59 Aegna Island also revels in primeval nature,

A tour in Naissaar

similarly dotted with traces of military structures. They are a contrast to the island’s beaches, dreamy places redolent with rosehips, the four erratic boulders and varying scenery, from parts full of horsetails and ferns to dry meadowland. A sense of mystery also pervades the place – Aegna has a stone circle labyrinth built centuries ago, probably by the coastal Swedish inhabitants.

PICKLED CHANTERELLES INGREDIENTS: Chanterelles FOR PICKLING: 1l water 2 tbsp salt 3 tbsp sugar 1 onion 1 carrot 5 grains of black pepper 2 grains of allspice 1 bay leaf 3 tbsp 30% vinegar Boil the water with the salt and sugar for around 3 minutes. Add the peeled and sliced carrots and onions. Boil until semi-soft (2-3 minutes) and then add the spices. Remove the pot from the stove and let the mixture steep. Add the washed chanterelles to the mixture and boil for 5-10 minutes. Add the vinegar and boil for another few minutes. Use a skimmer to put the chanterelles into jars and pour the boiling mixture on top. Seal the jars so that they are airtight.

LIGHT BLUEBERRY ROLL A roll made this way is airy and delicate. If you like, you can make the roll using a mix of blueberries and raspberries or just raspberries. MERINGUE: 6 egg whites 4 dl sugar 1 dl vanilla sauce powder (Ekströms) FILLING: 2 dl whipped cream 1 tbsp sugar 150 g plain cream cheese 4-5 dl blueberries TOPPING: Powdered sugar Preheat the oven to 175 ºC. Whip the egg whites into stiff peaks, adding the sugar and vanilla sauce powder in small amounts. Cover the oven tray with baking paper and spread the meringue out in a 1 cm layer. Bake in the centre of the oven for 20 minutes. Remove the meringue, turn it out onto another piece of baking paper and let it cool. Remove the top layer of baking paper. Mix the whipped cream and sugar, adding the room-temperature cream cheese. Spread the mixture over the meringue and add the blueberries. Roll the meringue up and sprinkle it with powdered sugar.

Recipe by Pille Enden. Photo by Jaan Heinmaa.

Makes one roll of 10 slices Preparation time: 15 minutes + 20 minutes in the oven

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Official name Area Inhabitants Currency Capital Official language Form of government Independence declared

Practical information Republic of Estonia 45,339 km² 1.3 million Euro Tallinn (430,000 inhabitants) Estonian Parliamentary democracy 24 February 1918, 20 August 1991

Wi-Fi

More than 1,000 Wi-Fi hotspots all over the country, available mostly free.

Paying

Most shops, restaurants, hotels and other services accept international credit cards. There are plenty of ATMs in the cities, but take cash with you when travelling to the countryside.

Mobile phone

The Republic of Estonia is a member of the European Union, Schengen Area, NATO and OECD.

You can buy pre-paid mobile phone calling cards from kiosks, petrol stations, post offices and supermarkets.

Emergency aid

112

Estonia is in the East European time zone (GMT/BST + 02:00).

Tourist i information

There are official Tourist Information Centres in all bigger cities and county centres. Do not hesitate to come in and ask for advice, maps or general tips on where to wine and dine and how to make the most of your holiday in Estonia. Most offices are open daily.

Estonia’s country code is +372. To place an international call from within Estonia, start by dialling 00.

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Estonia in brief