COFFEE SELECTION Summer 2018
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SUMMER 2018
Dear Readers Sometimes you need to keep quiet to develop something worth talking about. This is the case for Volcafe Way. We started the first conceptual discussions over four years ago, and have been working since on developing the farmer program and onboarding coffee producers. Today, the program is truly global, touching the lives of more than 12,000 farmers and offering an intriguing front-end to coffee roasters, agronomists and farmers alike. Now, we are ready to talk about this great project! We hope that you will enjoy this personal introduction to Volcafe Way. In January, we conducted a first roaster field trip to Uganda. Kyagalanyi, Volcafe’s local company, briefed us on their plans to develop robust change programs and uplift Uganda’s quality. From the washing stations on Mount Elgon to the misty Rwenzori Mountains at the boarder of the DRC, the trip gave us many opportunities to discuss local challenges with farmers, and hear how we can continuously improve quality together. Kyagalanyi’s hands-on approach in the field is inspirational. Their achievements have been recently recognized with the nomination for the “Rainforest Alliance Sustainable Standard-Setter Award” for their effort to prevent child labor in the West Nile region. We invite you to discover many new qualities on the following pages…
G H C E N Q G 8 6GCO 6J5GN GEV Enjoy,
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I P K DTKGH NECHG YC[ XQ R VOLCAFE SELECT
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p.36–41
G U AT E M A L A p.42–45
HONDURAS
p.63–65
NICARAGUA
p.14–19
COLOMBIA
UGNG p.6–13
BRAZIL
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p.86–88
YEMEN p.70–74
UGANDA p.66–69
p.46–49
p.20–29
INDIA
ETHIOPIA
p.52–59
INDONESIA
p.56–59
K E N YA
TA N Z A N I A
p.30–33
GEV
EAST TIMOR
5 0 + ) + 4 1 ' ' ( %1( 0 1 + 6 + 5 & + ' * +0 6 VOLCAFE SELECT
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B RAZI L
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B R A Z I L
BRAZIL
T
here is Latin America, and then there is Brazil. Brazil does coffee differently from the rest of the world and because of the massive scale of coffee production within the country itself, the many regions, farmers, and exporters combine to produce a kaleidoscope of different qualities. Recently, we have sourced our first Volcafe Way lot from Fazenda Freitas. This great farm has not only joined our Volcafe Way program but has also won a the latest Cup of Excellence in Brazil. To find more information about Volcafe Way please have a look at our briefing on page 77. Most of our Brazils are sourced from Mogiana and Cerrado. Mogiana borders Sul de Minas to the east. It is a region where exceptionally sweet lots can be found. Cerrado coffees are typically fine and clean, with a good body. It is the newest area in Minas Gerais where the coffee culture is ‘only’ four decades old but has quickly been recoginsed as a reliable, high quality producing region of various fine and commecial coffees.
OUR RANGE: – Cemorrado Sweet, Hazel & Lime Edition – Fazenda Diamante, Screen 14up, Volcafe Way – Fazenda Fazendinha, Screen14up, Organic – Fazenda Freitas, Screen 14up, Volcafe Way – Fazenda Grota Funda Yellow Bourbon, NY2/3, 15up – Fazenda Lagoa Yellow Bourbon, NY2/3, screen 15up – Fazenda Santa Quiteria – Fully washed Bahia, NY2/3, Screen 15up – Santos, NY 2/3, Screen 17/18
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POPULATION:
207.8 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 8,678.
CAPITAL:
Brasilia.
COFFEE AREA:
2,302,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
May–Sep.
B R A Z I L
FAZENDA FR EI TAS C H O C O L AT E, H A Z E L N U T, F U L L B O DY
I
n 1984 Osmar Nunes, son of a migrants family in the Cerrado region, started negotiating with his father to grow 10 hectares of coffee on their 100% cattle farm. Osamr had to fight for his idea as his father was uncertain about the coffee trees adaption of Cerrados weather and soil conditions. Reluctantly he agreed to grant his son the opportunity to grow 10 hectares of coffee on his well-established cattle farm. Osmar had to learn coffee farming from scratch and got great success with his first crop, making coffee farming the family’s passion. Since then Fazenda Freitas started changing to a coffee producing farm and today counts more than 300 hectares of coffee. Nowadays Gabriel Nunes, son of Osmar Nunes is managing the farm and represents the second generation of coffee farming on Fazenda Freitas. Recently Gabriel got a degree in agronomical engineering and became a Q-Grader. With his great knowledge in coffee he brings a fresh and professional approach with modern farming techniques and production of specialty coffee.
REGION:
Patrocínio Town, Cerrado Region. FARMER:
Gabriel Nunes. FARM SIZE:
300 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
June–Aug.
ALTITUDE:
960 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Red Catuai PROCESSING:
Natural sun-dried.
Thanks to Gabriel and his great approaches they won several quality competitions including the latest Cup of Excellence. Our natural lot from Fazenda Freitas comes with a great chocolatey cup, full body and hazelnut.
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B R A Z I L
FAZENDA FAZENDI NHA C E R E A L S, L I G H T C H O C O L AT E Y, ROUND AND SOFT Y
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ocated near the town of Perdizes in the Minas Gerais region of Brazil, the Fazendinha Farm is owned by Ricardo de Aguiar Rezende and his wife Gisele. Both have a lifetime of agricultural experience and are third generation coffee producers, still living on the farm. They have dedicated themselves to the work of equally prioritizing environmental protection and preservation along with ensuring high quality and taste standards. In addition to being a coffee producer, Ricardo is an also an agronomist and has invested in replanting native trees, fostering the growth of the native flora and fauna and developing a reforestation program for shade trees. As a pioneer of organic development in Brazil, the Fazendinha Farm has been certified organic and contributes to economic, social, and environmental development and is committed to sustainable organic coffee production. The very good climate conditions in Cerrado on Fazenda Fazendinha did a great job by creating a round, light chocolatey cup profile with cereal taste.
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REGION:
Perdizes Town, Cerrado Region. FARMERS:
Family De Aguiar Rezende. FARM SIZE:
83 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
May–Aug.
ALTITUDE:
910 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Catuai, Acaia. PROCESSING:
Natural sun-dried.
B R A Z I L
FAZEN DA L AGOA
S W E E T, L I G H T N U T T Y, L I G H T A C I D I T Y, S O F T A N D M E D I U M B O DY
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n the heart of Minas Gerais, with its rolling mountains, lakes and rich farmland, lies the well-known coffee growing region of Sul de Minas. The great grandfather of the current owners established their first plantation, Fazenda Lagoa, about 100 years ago. The original farmhouse is still intact, with its wide veranda and courtyard surrounded by Jabuticaba fruit trees.
REGION:
Monte Belo, Sul de Minas. FARMERS:
Marcelo Vieira and his brother Adolfo Henrique Vieira. FARM SIZE:
Here, in the slopes of Serra do Pau D'Alho, coffee is produced at altitudes ranging from 900 to 1,100 meters. Today Fazenda Lagoa has 210 hectares in coffee, producing average of 6.000 bags a year and 600 hectares of preserved forest attracting conservationists from all over the world to study its hundreds of different bird species.
210 ha.
The Vieira family is equally concerned with quality and in bridging the gap between the consumer and the producer to assure the sustainable quality demanded in the Specialty market. They are keen to develop long term relationships with their clients in order to guarantee the necessary consistency of supply.
Natural sun-dried.
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CROP PERIOD:
May–Aug.
ALTITUDE:
900–1,100 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Yellow Bourbon. PROCESSING:
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F G V E G N UG
B R A Z I L
CEMOR R A D O S W E E T, H A Z E L & L I M E
CEMORRADO—A TRIO OF FLAVOUR— HAZEL, SWEET AND LIME
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he Cemorrado Trio is a selected collection in our range of fine Brazilian lots, exclusively created for Volcafe Select. We have chosen three distinctive qualities each boasting a different and seductive profile. Versatile and solid, the trio will provide the perfect backdrop to suit any blend. The characters are defined as Lime, with its fine acidity, Hazel, full-bodied and Sweet, offering honey and chocolate savours. The Cerrado and Mogiana regions are both recognized for their production of fine Brazilian cups. The three qualities are sourced from both these regions and so combined into the name Cemorrado. Each of the qualities comes from carefully selected shippers guaranteeing consistant quality and longterm availability. We understand that roasters need a reliable source of well defined, clean and consistant Brazils for quality blends and single origins. The Cemorado Trio will not disappoint!
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B R A Z I L
SWEET
A full bodied cup with lingering sweetness and honey notes. With its sweetness and chocolaty undertones, the Sweet edition of our Cemorrado range is perfectly suited to blends intended for milk creations such as a creamy flat white or a Cappucino. HAZEL
Hazelnut notes with dark chocolate and caramel; full-bodied, fine roast. Either as single origin or as a base for a distinguished, rich blend. Fine hazelnut notes form a harmonious match for a classic espresso blend. LIME
Fine acidity, refined citric notes, elegant and soft. Medium body. The Lime edition is perfectly suited for a filter or V60 pour-over. Its delicate lime notes elevate the superior blend.
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CO LO M B I A
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C O L O M B I A
COLOM B I A
C
olombia unfurls majestically across the northwestern corner of South America, with seaports in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and the Andes crossing from south to north. The country has a wide variety of environmental conditions and climates, from deserts to glaciers, with the bio-diversity to match. Coffee is synonymous with Colombia. The history of the nation and the commodity have been intertwined even before the first major production boom in the 1870s. However, low prices and reduced farmer profitability, along with negative weather and diseases, sent the nation’s production to a multi-decade low in 2011/12, down 45% from just three years before. Since then output has rebounded as rejuvenated fields started producing and both weather and prices improved. Production in Colombia is predominantly in the hands of small holders who process their own crops. Approximately 60% of the nation‘s production comes from farms under 5 hectares in size. The major production regions are Huila, where the soil is rich in volcanic ashes and offers a high level of organic material, Antioquia and Tolima.
OUR RANGE:
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– Finca Esmeralda Microlot, Red and Yellow Boubon – Finca Los Pinos Microlot – Finca Samaria Microlot – Finca San Luis (Montana) Microlot – Narino Excelso – Santa Marta Excelso, Organic – Supremo Huila, Screen 17+ – Supremo Huila, Screen 18+ – Supremo Sierra Nevada, Screen 17+, Organic – Tolima Excelso – Villa Coffee Farm Microlot, natural, Organic VOLCAFE SELECT
POPULATION:
48.2 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 6,056.
CAPITAL:
Bogota.
COFFEE AREA:
770,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
All year.
C O L O M B I A
F IN C A ES M ER A L DA R E D A N D Y E L LO W B O U R B O N
T
he nutrient-rich volcanic soils of the Pitalito municipality of Huila, located deep in the central-eastern mountain ranges of Colombia, form an ideal situation to cultivate coffee. At Finca Esmeralda, the cherries of 2,500 Yellow Bourbon and 2,000 Red Bourbon coffee trees are handpicked by Mr. Libardo Pihedrahita Santa and his family. When the picking and sorting is done, the coffee is fermented without water for 24 hours under controlled conditions. Then the beans are sun dried until they reach the right humidity, after which they are packed and shipped. Mr. Libardo Pihedrahita is justifiably proud of his soft bodied cup that has light citric acidity and a round finish.
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REGION:
Pitalito, Huila. FARM:
Finca Esmeralda PRODUCER:
Libardo Pihedrahita Santa. FARM SIZE:
5 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Sept.–Nov.
ALTITUDE:
1,600 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Red and Yellow Bourbon. PROCESSING:
Washed and natural.
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C O L O M B I A
F IN C A S A N LOUI S E
B E R R Y N OT E S, S L I G H T LY S P I C Y, C O M P L E X , VERY WELL BAL ANCED
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mar Arango’s family have owned and run the San Luis Farm in Tolima for over 35 years. In the 20 years under Omar’s management, he has twice won the USA-based good food award and also received honorable mentions from the SCAA (now SCA). When Omar started growing specialty coffee, he sent a sample to the SCAA which took tenth place amongst the Colombian samples. Since then, his relentless dedication to improve the processes of producing, processing and sorting has led to today’s high quality lots. When visiting Finca San Luis, there’s a good chance one may be reminded of Kenyan farms, as this farm is set up a little differently to other Colombian farms. There are three pulpers, five fermentation tanks, and numerous washing tanks, and drying is done on African Beds. The African Beds, unlike the standard Columbian patios, guarantee a good airflow throughout the drying process. Starting from the bottom level of the three layered beds, the parchment is moved up the layers the drier it becomes.
“The younger Colombian farmer generation is very much attracted by the Specialty coffee community. Further, we happy to see more and more Specialty coffee stores opening their doors, having the potential to propagate good quality coffee beyond the hip local jet set.”
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REGION:
Tolima.
FARMER:
Omar Arango. FARM SIZE:
42 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Sep.–Nov.
ALTITUDE:
1,750–1,850 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Colombia, Caturra, Tabi, Typico. PROCESSING:
Washed and natural.
C O L O M B I A
VILL A COF F E FA R M H O N E Y, J U I C Y, T R O P I C A L F R U I T S
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n his farm located in the South of Tolima, Willington Gutierrez has run the Villa Coffee Farm for over 20 years now. With great love and careful practice, Willington takes care of approximately 35,000 Arabica trees year in and year out. His excellence was recognized with a star in the “Siembra y Cosecha” awards, which recognize great performance in sowing and harvesting, coffee cultivation and quality management. Our lot is naturally processed, hence no water is required. By drying the whole cherries, the sweet and juicy flavors from the mucilage migrate into the parchment and create an splendid fruity cup with honey-like sweetness.
REGION:
La Cristalina Village, Planadas, Tolima. FARMER:
Willington Gutierrez. FARM SIZE:
35,000 trees. CROP PERIOD:
April–June.
ALTITUDE:
1,700 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Caturra, Tabi. PROCESSING:
Natural.
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J V K Y GPEG I K N FK
Krem Kebede has been in charge of sample roasting and managing cupping sessions at our Ethiopia office for 23 years. She is very diligent and exceptionally skilled. Krem is a single mother and has two boys. Her first son Zemen graduates from high school this year.
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ET H I O PI A
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E T H I O P I A
ET H I OP I A
T
he smell of roasting coffee is an ever-present part of life and travel in Ethiopia. Tradition dictates that guests are welcomed with a coffee ceremony, in which green coffee is freshly roasted, brewed in a clay pot, and served in three rounds. Wild arabica trees can still be found in Ethiopia’s forests, though their contribution to overall production is quite small (less than 5%). Production of “semi-forest” coffee, a term for coffee that has been planted under a dense canopy of indigenous shade trees is much more common. It has enabled Ethiopia to keep large tracts of its old forests and biodiversity intact. There is also “garden” production, which appears more similar to smallholder farming systems found elsewhere in the world and is most prevalent in the southern and eastern parts of the country.
OUR RANGE: – Harrar Longberry Grade 2, Burka Galeti Union, natural, organic – Harrar Longberry Grade 4, natural – Limu Grade 2, washed – Sidamo Grade 2 Top, washed – Sidamo Grade 2 ABEBA, washed – Yirga Cheffe Grade 1, natural, directly sourced from the farmer – Yirga Cheffe Grade 1 ARICHA, washed – Yirga Cheffe Grade 2, washed
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POPULATION:
99.4 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 619.2.
CAPITAL:
Addis Ababa. COFFEE AREA:
694,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Feb.
F G V E G N UG
E T H I O P I A
S IDAM O AB E B A H O N E Y, J U I C Y, F LO W E R Y
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his year we decided to establish a new coffee type from Ethiopia. Abeba means “flower” in Amharic and this is what you can expect—a flowery cup. Moreover, the cup is well balanced with notes of sweetness, acidity and a fine body to complement this exciting flavor. Harvested in the first weeks of this year, this coffee is subsequently purchased by a Cherry Buying Unit which also delivers the lot to a nearby washing station. After pulping, fermentation, washing and drying, the coffee is delivered to the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange (ECX) warehouse in Hawassa. The liquoring unit of the exchange classified the coffee as a Grade 1 and 2. As such, the lot is traded on the exchange and delivered to the export company. Before being trucked to the port of Djibouti, the coffee is milled, hand sorted and packed in GrainPro bags for onward transit.
ቡና ዳቦዋችን Coffee is our bread Ethiopian saying
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REGION:
Sidamo.
CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–Feb.
ALTITUDE:
1,400–1,800 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Heirloom.
PROCESSING:
Washed.
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Inside the Jugol, the fortified, historic part of Harar. The ancient walls surrounding these buildings were built between the 13th and 16th centuries. It is said that Harar Jugol is the fourth holiest city of Islam and has 82 mosques, some dating back to the 10th century, and 102 shrines.
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E T H I O P I A
HA RRAR
B U R K A G A L E T I C O O P, G R A D E 2, O R G A N I C
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ost coffee in Ethiopia comes from the southern and south-western Ethiopian highlands, with the notable exception of Harar in Ethiopia’s Eastern Oromo region. Dating from the 12th century, the ancient walled city of Harar is famed for its unique architecture, boasting many shrines and mosques, and of course, its excellent naturally processed coffee which is grown in the surrounding areas and known for its distinctive winey fruitiness.
REGION:
Harrar.
CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–Feb.
ALTITUDE:
1,800–2,000 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Heirloom.
PROCESSING:
Natural.
Even the renowned French poet Arthur Rimbaud started trading coffee when he lived in Harar for 10 years in the 1880’s. Now, 140 years later, Harar coffee is still in high demand. This season, we are sourcing coffee from the Burka Galeti Farmers Cooperative Union. Getahun Alem, General Manager of the union, is proud of the growth that the union has seen in recent years. The union now processes coffee from over 40,000 households, four times as much as when it was established in 2004. Scattered smallholder farmers covering a total area of some 360 hectares bring the coffee to the union for primary processing (hulling and removal of husks) and then the coffee is cleaned in the nearby town of Dire Dawa. Getahun is planning to start cleaning his own coffee soon. Loans to purchase the required machinery have been secured and his currently waiting for the extra land needed for construction of the processing facilities. Some areas of the areas that contribute cherries to the union have just been accepted for a crop insurance program. The union plans to purchase two tractors that the farmers can use for their non-coffee related agriculture work, and also offers feeding programs to their local communities.
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E T H I O P I A
Y IR G AC H AF F E
G R A D E 1, N AT U R A L , O R G A N I C S O U R C E D D I R E C T LY F R O M T H E FA R M
Yirgachaffe, located in the lush and densely populated southern highlands of Ethiopia, is an important coffee-growing area, well known for its distinctly fruity flavours. For many years exciting specialty lots have emerged from this region. Many smallholder farmers work hard to produce some of the world’s leading coffee lots. Until recently, however, they were only able to sell their lots through unions or the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange (ECX). We are excited about new possibilities to buy coffee from farmers directly now, which is possible because of the recent changes in the ECX system (see infographic on page 96/97). In this edition we present you two lots from two smallholder farmers—Alemayehu Daniel, who inherited a family-owned farm from his father in 1973, and Bekele Heto, who supports his wife and 10 children with his farming activities. Bekele said that he has full control over his coffee since he can sell directly. Once the regional government opened the opportunity for farmers to obtain export licenses, he applied immediately. He is currently exporting his first lot. “Becoming an exporter is the biggest success in my career,” says Bekele. “I now can sell clean coffee that I have been working really hard for.” Also Alemayehu is happy about the changes that were made in the commodity exchange in Addis Ababa. His cashflow as a sole exporter has improved considerably since he no longer has to depend exclusively on the union.
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E T H I O P I A
ALEMAYEHU DANIEL
BEKELE HETO
Intense aroma, clean, sweet, spicy, smooth, round cup, long finish
Clean, sweet, fruity, honey, complex, long finish
CROP PERIOD:
Nov - Feb.
ALTITUDE:
1,950–2,100 m.a.s.l. PROCESSING:
Natural.
CROP PERIOD:
Nov - Feb.
ALTITUDE:
1,950–2,100 m.a.s.l. PROCESSING:
Natural.
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EAST TI MO R
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E A S T
T I M O R
EAST TI M OR
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magine crystal clear waters lapping upon white sand beaches. Picture soaring mountains, breathtaking reefs and breathe deep of the aromas of sandalwood forests and coffee plantations. This is the country of East Timor (or Timor-Leste), located about 650km off the northern coast of Australia. This picturesque island nation is not only a fairly recent addition to the coffee world, but it is also Asia’s newest country, having declared independence from Indonesia in 2002. Originally introduced by the Portuguese in the 1860’s, coffee is the only cash crop of the country. According to reports, over 40% of East Timorese households rely heavily on coffee for income. The country’s coffee is primarily organic. All coffee is shade grown, due to the arid climate. Currently many NGO-funded projects are helping the coffee sector to achieve steady growth in volume and quality improvements, bringing this small nation up to speed with the rest of the coffee world as a reliable producer of good lots.
OUR RANGE: – Microlot Goulala Village No.2, washed – Microlot Lacau Village No.2, washed
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POPULATION:
1.3 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 1,161.
CAPITAL:
Dili.
CROP PERIOD:
May.–Oct.
E A S T
T I M O R
GOUL AL A & L AC AU FROM TWO VILL AGES IN LETEFOHO
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oulala Village and Lacau Village are located in the south east of East Timor.
63 smallholders grow their coffee there in total and are separated into three groups per village which produce one lot at a time to each to ensure meticulous quality. Senhor Manuel da Costa Silva and Senhor Domingo de Deus are two of the chief farmers in Goulala Village and Lacau Village and lead the farmers who build the group for both lots we have chosen. The chief farmers have to pay great attention to growing, fertilizing, harvesting and processing throughout the year. While each farmer grows coffee for himself, the crop and processing period need a tight time-table as it is done collectively. Early in the morning the ripe cherries are hand-picked by each farmer and sorted before lunch. After lunch, the picking for the day is over and the picked cherries are pulped with a manual pulper to start the processing on the same day. Now that the parchment is separated from the mucilage a second sorting takes place with a floater before the parchment is fermented for 36 hours in fermentation tanks. When the fermentation is done the coffee is naturally sun-dried on drying tarpaulins for about 30 days and subsequently dry-milled for export.
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GOULALA VILLAGE, Sweet, full body, chocolate, citric notes.
LACAU VILLAGE CUP PROFILE:
Full body, cereals, chocolate, round and soft cup. REGION:
Letefoho.
CROP PERIOD:
July.–Oct.
ALTITUDE:
1,400–1,600 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Typica, Timor hybrid. PROCESSING:
Washed.
FARMER:
15/9 smallholders
E 37
A so called ‘trading center’ close to Kasese, Uganda. These centers are the commercial hub for the surrounding communities where they sell their coffee and also do their shopping.
J V K YTGPIVJ UV
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GUAT EM AL A
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G UAT E M A L A
GUATE MAL A
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uatemala, the land of the eternal spring, is where trees always bloom and rainbows appear ever so often. It is the heartland of the ancient Mayan civilisation and defined by its legacy. It is also a country with picturesque buildings and a superb natural scenery; but above all the country is home to many outstanding coffees. Guatemala produces mainly washed arabica, though a small volume of washed robusta is produced in the south west of the country. Coffee is grown from 650 to 1,800 meters above sea level. The average coffee producer plants two to three hectares of coffee; 98% of Guatemalan coffee farmers are smallholders. Anacafe (a public, non-profit producer organization) has been working diligently to identify and group the main coffee regions and to define them by cup characteristics, micro climates and coffee culture. The broad range of Guatemalan coffees can be divided into eight well defined high altitude coffee regions: Acatenango, Antigua, Atitlan, Coban, Fraijanes, Huehuetenango, Oriente and San Marcos.
OUR RANGE: – Cascades of Oriente, SHB – Golden Flakes of Jumay, SHB – Green Valleys of the Chorti, SHB – Pastores SHB – SHB Agromasnou Single Estate, Organic
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POPULATION:
16.3 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 3,904.
CAPITAL:
Guatemala City. COFFEE AREA:
277,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–Mar.
F G V E G N UG
G UAT E M A L A
PA S TO RE S
S M O O T H B O D Y, C H O C O L AT E A F T E R TA S T E
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he world famous “Genuine Antigua Quality” is grown on the slopes of the volcano Agua above 1,600 ma.s.l. There are only a few big plantations, some medium sized farmers and producers with a crop of around 50–100 bags.
A UNIQUE MILL—ENTIRELY MADE OF WOOD In our mill ‘Pastores’, we receive only the best cherries from a few carefully selected farmers. Tremendous efforts are needed to maintain the quality over so many decades. The Pastores Mill has a rich and long history. It started out as a flour mill in the early 1900’s and only became a coffee processing mill in the 1960’s.
REGION:
Slopes of the volcano Agua. ALTITUDE:
1,600 m.a.s.l. HARVEST:
Dec.–March. VARIETY:
Bourbon, Arabigo. SOIL:
Volcanic Soil. PROCESSING:
Washed.
The entire coffee flow in the mill is made of wood—an exquisite exemplar of the carpenter’s craft. Preserving these traditional features and methods has meant that the mill maintains its charm and beauty as well as producing a consistent and distinctive quality of coffee.
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F G V E G N UG
G UAT E M A L A
NE W O RI E N TE O N E R E G I O N, T H R E E C U P S
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ith our new specially selected lots from Guatemala, Cascades of New Oriente, Golden Flakes of Jumay and Green Valleys of the Chorti we collected the best lots from New Oriente Region in cooperation with our origin company Peter Schoenfeld. Eduardo, who took care of the sourcing and pre-selection of the available lots, sent us a range of 15 different coffees from New Oriente whereof these three lots were finally selected by us. New Oriente is a very diverse region with the beautiful Cascades of Tatasirere, the volcanoes of Jumay, Alzatate and Monterrico and the ancient woodlands of the Chorti. Hence, there are several micro climates which influence the flavours you can find in each lot. Our three Guatemalans are a great example of how the climate even in a small region can be different on each farm. Whilst the sunny plateaus next to the Cascades of Tatasirere create a light citric acidity with a round and medium body, the volcanic soil of three volcanoes “Jumay”, “Alzatate” and “Monterrico” bring a full, strong body to a juicy, chocolatey cup. The humid air in the far valleys of the Chorti were coffee grows on plantations in the forest a sweet, floral cup with a medium body is the result.
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CASCADES OF NEW ORIENTE Light citric acidity, medium body.
REGION:
Oratorio, Santa Rosa, New Oriente. ALTITUDE:
1,500–1,700 m.a.s.l. HARVEST:
Dec.–March. VARIETY:
Bourbon, Catuai. PROCESSING:
Washed.
GOLDEN FLAKES OF JUMAY
GREEN VALLEYS OF THE CHORTI
Strong body, smokey/ spicy, juicy, chocolate.
Light florality, sweet, medium body.
REGION:
San Carlos Alzatate, New Oriente. ALTITUDE:
1,500–1,700 m.a.s.l. HARVEST:
Dec.–March. VARIETY:
Bourbon, Catuai. PROCESSING:
Washed.
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REGION:
San Carlos Alzatate, New Oriente. ALTITUDE:
1,500–1,700 m.a.s.l. HARVEST:
Dec.–March. VARIETY:
Bourbon, Catuai. PROCESSING:
Washed.
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HO N D URAS
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H O N D U R A S
HO ND UR A S
H
onduras is a stunning country—its biodiversity and natural beauty are breathtaking. Besides the average commercial coffee, the country is producing extrordinary micro lots with great structure, tropical fruit flavors and a syrupy body. Although a growth rate of 7% would suggest a dynamic young economy, Honduras is unfortunately still one of the poorest countries within Latin America and is facing a staggering unemployment rate of almost 30%. Needless to say that this makes society and especially the country’s youth vulnerable to social unrest and organized crime. In general, the economy is heavily dependent on raw materials—such as green coffee—and the textile industry. With 7.1 million bags of green coffee produced in 2016/17, Honduras is Central America´s largest coffee producer. Coffee continues to play an important role in the economy, being the country’s leading agricultural export and accounting for roughly 5% of overall GDP. Also in the specialty coffee industry, Honduras is a rising star. Farmers and exporters have invested heavily into infrastructure and especially their knowledge and expertise. If you are willing to sift through the masses of Honduras’ coffee production, you will be rewarded with finding some exceptional lots.
OUR RANGE: – Buenos Aires Microlot – Nueva Alianza Microlot – San Antonio Microlot – SHG Fairtrade + Organic – SHG Organic – SHG Genuine Marcala – SHG San Marcos 48
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POPULATION:
8.07 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 4,959.
CAPITAL:
Tegucigalpa. COFFEE AREA:
409,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–April.
H O N D U R A S
NUEVA A L I A N Z A & SAN A NTONI O
O U R LOT S F R O M C E N T R A L C O M AYA G U A
C
omayagua in central Honduras is known as an exemplar of Spanish Colonial architecture, and the cathedral clock is said to be the oldest in the Americas. Enjoying an ideal microclimate for coffee cultivation, Comayagua boasts a thriving smallholder community, where the farms nestle some 300m beneath the Comayagua National Park, a protected area boasting a great diversity of flora and fauna. Two of our exciting new lots from Honduras are sourced right from the heart of Comayagua. In the municipality of Concepción del Horno, twenty smallholders collaborate to produce our Nueva Alianza lot. Their production has have grown in volume and quality over the past few years and they have worked closely with Molinos de Honduras, our origin company in Honduras, for the last three years. Their quality and dedication to coffee cultivation is never a disappointment and keeps them on our radar whenever we look for specialty coffees in Honduras. San Antonio, our second lot from Central Comayagua, is a group of fourteen producers located in a small village called El Sute. They have been growing coffee since the early 90’s, gaining extensive knowledge in the full process of coffee production, and have featured Molinos’ portfolio for the last four years.
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FARMER NUEVA ALIANZA 20 SMALLHOLDERS
FARMER SAN ANTONIO 14 SMALLHOLDERS CROP PERIOD:
Dec. to March ALTITUDE:
1,500 – 1,650 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Catimor, Lempira PROCESSING:
Washed.
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I ND I A
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I N D I A
I ND I A
M
ost Indian coffees originate along the Western Ghats mountain range in the south-west of India. This includes the two states of Karnataka and Kerala. To the east, Tamil Nadu produces an excellent arabica which is partly consumed in the state itself— the only coffee drinking Indian state. Interestingly, coffee is farmed more and more in the Eastern Ghats which mainly include the state of Andrah Pradesh. And even the North-Eastern States— mainly Assam—are producing a little coffee. India mainly produces robusta which is appreciated for its soft, sometimes sweet, spicy and herbal cup, depending on the preparation of the coffee. The arabica on the other hand is well-balanced and mild. Its light body, relatively low acidity and subtle and unique spicy notes produce a very desirable, versatile cup.
OUR RANGE: ARABICA:
– Cauvery Peak Estate, Plantation AA; A; B – Savamalai Estate, Plantation A – Goorghully Estate Microlot – Jumboor Estate Microlot, natural – Merthikhan Estate Microlot – Mylemoney Estate Microlot – Monsooned Malabar AA, Aspinwall; Nedcoffee; Tata – Mysore Nuggets, Extra Bold ROBUSTA:
– Kaapi Royale A – Monsooned Robusta AA Aspinwall – Parchment AB, Bynemara Estate; Manamboli Estate; Savamalai Estate
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POPULATION:
1.311 billion.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 1,593.
CAPITAL:
New Delhi. COFFEE AREA:
410,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–Mar.
I N D I A
MANAM B OL I ES TATE
W I N N E R O F T H E F L AV O U R O F I N D I A AWA R D
M
anamboli Estate planted its first coffee trees in the 1930’s. Located in the pristine inner valley of the Anamalai Hills— in the southern region of the Western Ghats mountains—Manamboli Estate receives abundant year-round monsoon rains which aid excellent, uniform bean development. The area is also renowned for its unique fauna and is under consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage site. On the Manamboli, the Arabica and Robusta coffee varieties are handpicked and afterwards processed using the double-washed method, before the beans are carefully sun dried on patios. Our Robusta Parchment AB comes with a medium body, with subtle tones of hazelnut and chocolate, ensuring a mild cup without bitterness. This delicate and multifarious cup profile is what makes this quality coffee the winner of the Flavour of India award.
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REGION:
Anamalai Hills. FARM:
Manamboli Estate. FARM SIZE:
200 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–Jan.
ALTITUDE:
1,000–1,200 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Selection 274 and others. PROCESSING:
Washed.
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G T C E J V K Y Planting a coffee tree in Yirgacheffe, Ethiopia. Dried leaves are laid around the seedling to prevent water evaporating from the soil.
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I N DO NESI A
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I N D O N E S I A
INDONES I A
D
ramatic landscapes, more than 17,000 islands and nearly 100 volcanos—Indonesia is a kaleidoscope of cultures, people, animals, plants, artwork and food. It has a rich history in coffee and is one of the world‘s oldest producers. Although arabicas represent a small percentage of Indonesian production they are considered some of the best in the world, priced for their richness, full body, long finish, earthiness and gentle acidity. But the challenge is to find the right sources, process properly and achieve consistent quality.
OUR RANGE: ARABICA:
– Blue Batak Single Village Hutajulu – Blue Batak – Lake Tawar – Mandheling Grade 1 triple picked ROBUSTA:
– Silosanen Estate, R/WP1 Large Bean
GILING BASAH Giling Basah is a wet-hulled processing method, a process isolated to parts of Indonesia. In this process the wet coffee parchment is kept fermenting in bags overnight. Then the parchment is only marginally dried before being stripped from the bean. After drying, the coffee bean turns into a slight bluish jade (hence the term ‘blue’). The method, locally called ‘Giling Basah’ gives excellent body and an outstanding character to the coffee. This creates an incredibly sweet and heavy bodied cup.
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POPULATION:
257,6 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 3,347.
CAPITAL:
Jakarta.
COFFEE AREA:
956,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
May–Dec.
F G V E G N UG
I N D O N E S I A
BLU E B ATA K
HERBAL, RED GRAPE & GRAPEFRUIT BIT TERS
L
ingtong lies on the South-Western tip of Lake Toba, high on a plateau with a notable diversity of tree ferns. This richly volcanic region is known for fertile soils, myriad microclimates created by small valleys. Around 70,000 years ago, a massive supervolcano erupted in Lintong. The enormous eruption left many lakes and incredibly fertile soil in its wake. In fact, the soil is so rich that the local tribe (the Batak) say, you can put a chair in the ground, and it will become a table. The majority of farms are small in size, and self-sufficiency is a key value here. The local farmers sometimes cultivate more than 10 different crops on their small estates. Blue Batak Grade 1 is a truly special coffee—everything from farm to drying is done by hand. At sunrise, farmers start picking the ripe cherries before pulping them with manual pulpers. After storing the wet parchment in bags to ferment overnight, the parchment is spread out on patios to dry. When the parchment is dry enough, it takes on a deep blue-greenish color and is ready for hulling. Another two or three days are needed for further drying before the coffee is triple handpicked and packed. Our local facility in Para Tusan handles the different processing steps. What makes this coffee unique? Contrary to most coffees these lots have been sourced by us directly from farmers. Such a supply chain allows to two things: First, we can avoid the middlemen (Tokeh) who normally collect the coffee from the farmers and sell the parchment on the local market. The main advantage however is the level of control we have over the quality. We keep the individual lots separate as long as possible in order to trace the quality along all the different processing steps. Once we know the final client we ship the individual microlot or blend smaller lots into a macrolot which has the requested cup profile. This is unique in Indonesia.
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REGION:
Lintong.
NAME OF THE FARM:
Small holder farmers. FARM SIZE:
0.5 to 2 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Sept.–Jan. and April–June ALTITUDE:
1,450 to 1,600 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Sigarar Utang/Ateng. PROCESSING:
Giling Basah.
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KE N YA
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K E N YA
KENYA
K
enya occupies a special place in the heart of specialty coffee lovers around the world. Straddling the equator, the production areas benefit from high altitudes and rich volcanic soils, and are blessed with a coffee culture, tradition and system which promotes and rewards quality. The production area lie between 1,200 and 1,800 metres above sea level, mainly in the hilly and fertile centre of the country. Mt. Kenya, which at 5,200 metres is the second highest peak on the continent, dominates the coffee landscape and remains a sacred place for the Kikuyu tribe, one of the biggest tribes in Kenya. Smallholders, who account for at least 60% of total production and the majority of top qualities, are organized into cooperatives, each with one or more wet mills or ‘factories’. The strong social structure built around these factories provides for vibrant rural coffee communities where generations of farmers uphold traditional values and practices.
OUR RANGE: KIAMBU COUNTY – AA Iriguini – AA Kagongo – AA Kimaratia Cooperative – AA Ngai Ndeithia – AB 3G'S C.G.C.S. Cooperative – AB Kiandu Cooperative – AB Kathima Cooperative – PB Windrush
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POPULATION:
46 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 1,377.
CAPITAL:
Nairobi.
COFFEE AREA:
138,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Oct–Jan/ May–July.
K E N YA
3G’S C.G.C.S.
F U L L B O D Y, C H O C O L AT E , F L O R A L , COMPLEX, SLIGHT HINTS OF BERRY
T
he name of this lot, “3G’s C.G.C.S.,” may strike you as rather strange for a quality coffee. We wondered about this too when cupping a wide range of samples from our Kenyan origin company, Taylor Winch Kenya. “C.G.C.S.” stands for “Coffee Growers Co-Operative Society”, while the “3G’s” represent the three cooperating factories: Githobokoni, Gatei and Gathaiti in Kiambu County. On the day the cherries are picked, they are rushed to processing at the wet mill. Before pulping, unripes, overripes, sticks and stones are sorted out in floating basins. The water for sorting and fermenting the coffees is received from River Gachiege and before recirculating it back to the river, it is routed through seepage pits to give back only clean water.
REGION:
Kiambu County. COOP:
3G’s C.G.C.S. FARMERS:
1,200 small holders. CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Dec.
ALTITUDE:
1,600–1,800 m.a.s.l. SOIL TYPE:
Red loamy soil. VARIETY:
SL 28, SL 34. PROCESSING:
Washed.
After sorting and fermentation, the parchment is naturally sundried dried on raised tables similar to those used in Ethiopia and Rwanda before being forwarded to the mill. At the mill – besides hulling the parchment and bagging for export – the beans are sorted and graded again by size and density.
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J V K Y CVFKGGPEG R W J V V K UYQNK
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Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda
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N I C A R AG UA
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N I C A R AG UA
NICA R AG UA
N
icaragua is volcanic energy, colonial opulence, majestic mountains and the jasmin smell of flowering coffee.
While the largest nation in Central America, Nicaragua remains one of the least visited. Still it is definitely worth a visit; the country's natural riches rival those of Costa Rica and the colonial architecture is being restored, offering many heavyweight tourist attractions. While travelling one should also make sure to plan a stop to enjoy a cup of famous Nicaraguan coffee. Introduced in 1790 by Catholic Missionaries, coffee has become a significant contributor to the Nicaraguan export industry over the years. The coffee sector survived natural disasters and political turmoil and is now on its way up again with a bigger focus on quality. The best know coffee is grown in Jinotega, Matagalpa and Nueva Segovia, located in central and northern central Nicaragua. Most often, coffee is fully washed and dried on patios and is produced by small holders owning less than 3 hectares.
OUR RANGE: – Buena Vista Mircrolot – El Farallon Microlot – La Bendicion Microlot – La Bendicion Microlot – La Bendicion Microlot, natural – La Bendicion Microlot, honey processed – Maragogype Finca San Ramon/San Jose – Providencia Microlot – San Jose Microlot – Talia Extra SHG, Finca San Ramon/San Jose
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POPULATION:
6.15 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 2,087.
CAPITAL:
Managua.
COFFEE AREA:
132,500 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Dec-March.
N I C A R AG UA
L A BE ND I C I O N T H R E E LOT S P R O D U C E D B Y LU I S A L B E R TO B A L L A D A R E Z
I
n the northeast of Nueva Segovia in the Dipilto Japalapa mountain range, Luis Alberto Balladarez produces fine lots of Nicaraguan specialty coffee on his farm ‘La Bendicion’. The sandy and loose soil with abundant humus paired with a rich biodiversity in the flora and some conifers for shading, yield great conditions to grow specialty coffees.
REGION:
Dipilto Japalapa Mountain Range. PRODUCER:
Luis Alberto Balladarez. FARM SIZE:
105 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Luis divides his farmland into 105 acres on which coffee plants grow and prosper, while another 147 acres is set aside for pine trees and latifolial forest. At La Bendicion, Luis cultivates nine distinct varieties which he divides into seven different lots with traceability of operation back to the seedlings.
Dec.–March.
After several cuppings, we chose three lots from this farm: fully washed, natural processed and honey processed. All three coffee lots bring different characteristics to the cup and surpass each other with every sip you take.
Pacamara, Hibrido H-3.
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ALTITUDE:
1,300 m.a.s.l. SOIL TYPE:
Sandy and loose, humus. VARIETY:
PROCESSING:
Washed, natural, honey processed.
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TA N Z AN I A
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TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
F
or decades Tanzania was considered to be the little coffee brother of Kenya. Fortunately this has changed. Today, Tanzania is not only producing more coffee than its northern neighbour but has also developed an individual, flavoursome and widely appreciated cup profile. The sheer size of the country results in very distinct coffee growing regions. In the north, on the slope of Kilimanjaro, around Arusha and finally in Karatu close to the famous Ngorongoro crater and the Serengeti national park we find larger estates alongside well organized cooperatives. The south which includes regions close to Mbeya, Iringa and Mbinga are dominated by small scale farmers. Kigoma at the shore of Lake Tanganyika is home to some fascinating lots—the full potential is still to be discovered. And finally Bukoba close to the Ugandan border is where the Tanzanian robusta is sourced from. Starting in Summer 2018, the Tanzanian government has decided that all coffee that is exported needs to be offered on the Tanzanian Coffee Auction in Moshi. On the positive side, the auction system still allows to source traceable lots and the farmer should—as per the economic theory—receive the best price on this transparent market. On the other side, long-term partnerships with cooperatives will become much more difficult. Unfortunately, the level of uncertainty became much higher.
OUR RANGE: Our offers include estate coffees from the north as well as selected lots from cooperatives in Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru as well as the Mbozi, close to Mbeya.
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POPULATION:
53.5 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 879.
CAPITAL:
Dodoma.
COFFEE AREA:
126,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Sept.–Feb.
TA N Z A N I A
MON D UL ES TATE
M I L K C H O C O L AT E N OT E S W I T H A S I L K Y B O DY
S
ituated on the lush rainforest slopes of Mount Monduli in the highlands of northern Tanzania, the Mondul Coffee Estate has great growing and cultivation conditions for fine Arabica beans. The estate has some of the most modern processing machines in Tanzanzia and they also have their own cupping lab where samples are cupped daily throughout the harvest season. This gives Mondul the operational flexibility and understanding of the intrinsic quality of each lot, allowing them to decide of which processing method will optimize the quality, and to produce fully customized microlots.
REGION:
Monduli, Arusha. FARM SIZE:
511 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
July–Nov.
ALTITUDE:
1,600–1,800 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Blue Mountain, Bourbon, N39, KP423. PROCESSING:
Washed.
Mondul Coffee Estate is one of the few farms in the area where all permanent staff members live on site. Most of the workers are from the Masaai tribe, long-time inhabitants of the Monduli area. During peak harvesting season, over 250 employees pick and process the blazing red cherries. Coffees from the Mondul Estate strike us with distinct cupping note; smooth chocolate body with notes of dark berry flavours and hints of tea-like flavour.
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U G A N DA
U G A NDA
U
ganda lies in the heart of East Africa on the shores of Lake Victoria, straddles the equator and is the source of the Nile. Sir Winston Churchill first described Uganda as the “Pearl of Africa”, while admiring its “magnificent variety of form and colour, profusion of brilliant life and its vast scale.” Benefiting from a bi-modal rainfall season and high altitudes, the country has a pleasant climate all year round and is lush with greenery. The mountain ranges to the east and west are home to Uganda’s arabica farmers, while robusta is produced on the central plateau. Almost all of the coffee is produced by smallholder farmers who intercrop their coffee fields with shade and banana trees. The government of Uganda promotes coffee production as a key driver for rural transformation.
OUR RANGE: ARABICA:
– Mount Elgon, A-Grade – Mount Elgon Butzibiti, Day Batch #52 – Mount Elgon Gibuzale, Day Batch #4 – Mount Elgon Gibuzale, Day Batch #33 – Mount Elgon Gibuzale, Day Batch #51 – Mount Elgon Gibuzale, Day Batch #58 – Rwenzori, Day Batch #7 ROBUSTA:
– Robusta Screen 18, natural – Robusta, Queen of the Nile, washed
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POPULATION:
39 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 714.
CAPITAL:
Kampala.
COFFEE AREA:
256,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
July–Feb. (arabica) Nov.–March & May–Aug. (robusta).
U G A N DA
MT. E LG O N DAY LOT F R O M T H E LU S H S LO P E S O F A N E X T I N C T V O LC A N O
M
ount Elgon, located in Bugisu region of Uganda is an extinct volcano on the border with Kenya. Variations in altitude, climate and soils enable production of lots with different profiles. Coffee on Mount Elgon is hand-picked due to the small farm sizes, mountainous terrain and long harvesting seasons. More than 7,000 smallholder families take part in the coffee farm which began operations in 2007 and has been expanding ever since. It consists of a cherry value chain where home processed parchments are purchased from farmer groups. Arabica grows favourably in plentiful rainfall, partly volcanic soils and shade from banana trees. The coffee is known for having great balance and a smooth cup combined with a medium acidity and good body. Chocolate overtones and citric, floral notes make this lot one of the finest produced in Uganda. Our five washing stations at the mountain produce coffee from the surrounding farmer communities. Each lot reflects the specific terroir. In order to get more traceability, we have started to separate each every day lot. Every day’s production is carefully cupped in Mbale. Whenever our quality team detects an outstanding day lot, we make sure that this lot is kept separate throughout the entire journey to Europe. Each of those Day Lots receive a number which makes sure that we can tell you precisely when your coffee has been harvested and processed. In our experience, this process not only helps the quality of the coffee but also the farmers which get an incentive to to become better coffee farmers.
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REGION:
Mount Elgon. CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Jan.
ALTITUDE:
1,100–2,200 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Nyasaland and Bugisu since 1920 (30%). More recent introductions: SL14, SL28, SL34, KP423 and Ruiru 11. PROCESSING:
Fully washed and sorted by hand. CERTIFICATION:
UTZ, RFA.
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U G A N DA
RWENZOR I D AY B ATC H #7
T
he magnificent Rwenzori Mountains, famously known as the ‘Mountains of the Moon’, stretch for 120km along Western Uganda’s border with the Democratic Republic of Congo, and are home to the Bakonzo tribe. The high altitude, fertile soils and plentiful rainfall provide perfect conditions for growing Arabica beans, while the pristine snow-capped peaks and the glaciers give rise to many rivers. Coffee is grown under the shade of banana trees, while farms also produce cassava, maize, beans and groundnuts for local consumption and additional income. For Bakonzo farmers, the coffee crop is a means of stable income that allows them to support their families and develop their homes. On average, each farmer works a plot of approximately 2 acres. Farm work is generally done by hand with all family members taking part. Bakonzo farmers group together to process and market their coffee, in an approach known as ‘share farming.’ This practice helps them to improve their processing, quality and marketing effectiveness. Like all our Day Batches, Batch #7 has been processed on a single day. Traditionally, farmers deliver dried cherries to the dry mill; however, for our Day Batches we purchase red cherries directly from the farmers. This has two positive effects: firstly, the farmer receives his money right after harvest. Secondly, our local team is able to gain a much better feeling for the batch quality. Not only are they extremely selective when analysing the cherries offered by the farmer, but they also control the drying process. After floating the cherries, our Specialty lots are dried carefully in greenhouses where they are turned every hour. Every evening, we close the greenhouses in order to maintain constant temperatures and hence ensure continuous drying.
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REGION:
Rwenzori.
CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Dec. and Feb.–March. ALTITUDE:
1,100–2,200 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
SL14 and SL28. PROCESSING:
Natural.
CERTIFICATION:
UTZ.
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VOLC AF E WAY PAT H TO S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y
Sustainability is a major buzzword in the sector—one which is likely to stick around. We encourage this development, and not only because Volcafe is at the forefront of sustainable sourcing. Meet Carlos Ortiz, (33), pioneer of the Volcafe Way. Carlos has been with us since 2008 and is based in San Jose, Costa Rica. YOU ARE ONE OF THE CORE DRIVERS AND DEVELOPERS OF VOLCAFE WAY. CAN YOU TELL US WHAT INITIALLY INSPIRED YOU TO DEVELOP THIS APPROACH?
I’ve had the opportunity to work closely with many producers and roaster partners in multiple coffee-growing countries. We refer to them as “origins”. When you’re out there, you’re always thinking about how to add value, how to make things different and how to ensure that the best interests of the entire supply chain are being protected. We can’t think Sustainability without Profitability. What good would it do for you and your family if you’re protecting all your resources but don’t have enough income to live on and improve your situation? Why is there a low generation renewal? Young people are moving away from agriculture; coffee is not the exception. It is normal for people to avoid an activity that has not shown to be profitable for their families. If we think Sustainability, long term view is a must. This can only be achieved via a business oriented approach. We need to understand that the time, the land, the environment and the people are all resources that must be taken care of—if you want to leave something positive for your kids. Smallholder farms can turn a profit, yes, but that does not necessarily ensure that their cost of living is covered. We need to support these families in diversifying their sources of income, and in mak82
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“Our vision is to have more young people falling in love with the soil, the water, the trees—and this activity we call coffee farming.” Carlos Ortiz
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“All of us share the same vision: we want to provide more tools for producers to improve their quality of life.” ing efficient use of their resources to create other income opportunities next to coffee. This approach is not only mine. It has arisen from all of our field team members who have their boots on the ground; the ones that are living the adventure of supporting farmers around the world. They, as well as the farmers and families we’re supporting, are the ones who inspire me to make things better and to try to improve our farmers and our teams’ quality of life. It is a huge team effort, aiming at doing things right—this is for everyone’s benefit, for the long run. Why can’t we develop a business model where everyone wins? WHAT DIFFERENTIATES VOLCAFE WAY FROM ANY OTHER STANDARD OR CERTIFICATION?
First and foremost, we’re not a certification. We’re Volcafe’s business strategy that aims to add value to all the members of the supply chain—us included—for the long term. We want to provide service and add value for producers, importers, roasters, end consumers and also ourselves, based on the real challenges identified for all our clients. It is in our best interest to ensure that our supply chain complies with the most critical social and environmental practices; not only because this is required by most of the markets we serve, but because it is the right thing to do if you want to really be here for the long run. When you’re offered a coffee from Volcafe Way, you must know that those coffees are socially and environmentally responsible, with a clear action plan which addresses the specific challenges identified in that region. This means there are concrete measures to improve the sustainable profitability of the producers. And for this, I not only give you my word. Our approach is externally verified 84
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by FLOCERT to validate the transparency and reliability of the results we show. CAN YOU SHARE A PERSONAL STORY WITH US? AN EXAMPLE, THAT VOLCAFE WAY REALLY DOES CREATE IMPACT FOR THE FARMERS?
Throughout this journey, I’ve had the opportunity to meet many amazing people across the most diverse origins. There are many farmers—or business people, as we call them—that have shown excellent progress through adopting our service. We call these our Business Model Farms and Farmers, key individuals that have allowed us to help change their initial mindset of coffee growers, to evolve as coffee entrepreneurs or business people. We showcase their advances within the communities of producers nearby, so every fellow producer can relate to the business model farmer, see the improvements achieved, and want to replicate these in their own farm. In our KPI’s, we focus on measuring productivity, quality, efficiency and loyalty. Productivity does not improve overnight; it requires long-term financial planning and proper execution. The business model farmers have demonstrated important progress in their cost of production reduction, efficiency in their use of resources, and improvement of quality. We expect to keep seeing more impact year upon year. Needless to say, we strongly support them in their market access. Also, I want to acknowledge the tremendous effort that our team makes every day. I know the question is focused on the impact for farmers, but I believe you should start to improve your own home first, before you can then go help others. The personal and professional growth we’ve experienced amongst our team members is highly encouraging and promising. All of us share the same vision: VOLCAFE SELECT
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we want to provide more tools for producers to improve their quality of life. When you have selfless people with this goal in mind, you have 90% of the job done. The remaining 10% can be achieved through training and follow-up. Without motivated, appropriate teams, you can teach but the results will never be as good. Our team is the most important asset of the Volcafe Way as they are the ones really achieving the impact with the producers. I HEARD THAT ONE REQUIREMENT TO QUALIFY AS A TRAINER FOR VOLCAFE WAY IS A STRONG AFFILIATION WITH COFFEE, IDEALLY FARMING COFFEE ONESELF. WHY IS THAT?
We’ve previously agreed that the main challenge of the farmers is lack of profitability, and lack of know-how in business administration to take better long term decisions, right? If that is the case, and if the challenge is identified, the next step would be to take action to help them improve, right? Actually, this is wrong! We are forgetting a crucial factor: qualified staff who can provide these customized interventions. Our field teams are trained to identify social and environmental aspects and indicators, based on which, they develop action plans and follow-up on the findings. Volcafe Way is a completely different approach in which financial, administrative and agronomic knowledge are front and center. Training our team regarding coffee farming and business administration is a crucial step before we can send them into the field, to provide support. Here, the support of Lloto del Café, one of our partners, has been key in successfully training the teams with a responsible approach on service and recommendations for farmers. We’ve seen that those colleagues who are coffee farmers themselves, or who have a strong affiliation with the plant as their family is involved with farming, naturally connect with the farmers on a much deeper level. This empathy makes for a whole different ballgame. 86
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“I think profitability of the farmers should be a key component of the equation. Sustainability means choosing clear actions that will guide people to increase and diversify their sources of income, without compromising the resources of the next generation.” However, farming coffee is not a mandatory requirement. We already had our field teams in place, and knew they have their hearts and attitude in the right place. We decided to invest in their professional growth and skills so they had more tools in their farming service toolbox. LAST BUT NOT LEAST: WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL VISION FOR SUSTAINABILITY IN COFFEE?
I recently watched a TED Talk where the speaker concluded something that kept me thinking, and I’m pretty certain he’s right. He said: ‘people don’t buy what you do, they buy WHY you do it.’ All we’re aiming to achieve is for everyone involved with coffee supply, be it directly or indirectly, to be empowered to add value in the present but also for future generations. Our vision is to have more young people falling in love with the soil, the water, the trees—and this activity we call coffee farming. I don’t envision real sustainability without considering the actual challenges and the long term. I think profitability of the farmers should be a key component of the equation. Sustainability means choosing clear actions that will guide people to increase and diversify their sources of income, without compromising the resources of the next generation.
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J V K Y COU V G VOLCAFE SELECT
Kule Peter of Demonstration Farm, one of the biggest producers of the Rwenzoris, poses with his co-workers. “[We need to] put more emphasis on environmental awareness. The negative effects of climate change have to be tackled. And also, how can we improve the use of organic fertilizers. I do not want to put too many chemicals in my garden.�
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Y E M E N
Y EMEN M I C R OLOT C H E R R Y C A N DY, L I N G E R I N G A C I D I T Y
YEMEN: AN ANCIENT COUNTRY WITH AN ANCIENT FARMING SYSTEM
T
erraced hills and mountains reveal a people’s resilience to outdo the tough conditions of their surroundings. All Yemeni coffee is naturally processed as water is not in plentiful supply. The coffee is probably the cleanest naturally processed coffee in the world, with only the ripest cherries being picked and very low intensity farming and processing. This lot has been produced by individual farmers living about 45 km west of the country’s capital Sana’a in a region called Al-Haimah. After picking, these farmers then dry the cherries in the traditional way on the rooves of their houses. The current political situation with the Houthi Rebels fighting the Yemeni government and Saudi Arabia and Iran intervening on both sides brought the private economy—including coffee exports—almost to a standstill.
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POPULATION:
26.8 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 1,406.
CAPITAL:
Sanaa.
COFFEE AREA:
35,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–Jan. REGION:
Al-Haimah. CROP PERIOD:
Dec–Jan.
ALTITUDE:
1,800–2,400 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Various Heirlooms. PROCESSING:
Natural, sun dried.
Y E M E N
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CO F F EE WI KI
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HARVES T C A L ENDA R
V O
T
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D
N R
IA
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COSTA R IC A NICAR A G EN EM
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J U LY VOLCAFE SELECT
INDONE
OL O
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RW
96
R
A
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A
Y
A
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ZA
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AL
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CO F F EE PROCESSI NG WA SHIPPING
SH
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SORTING HULLING
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RESTING
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DRYING
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WASHING
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HARVESTING
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–B
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NA
TUR
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HO N
EY
COF F EE SCREENS
98
Nr. of screens
Ø in mm
Tolerance (+/–)**
12
4.75
0.14
13
5
0.14
14
5.6
0.15
15
6
0.16
16
6.3
0.17
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Nr. of screens
Ø in mm
Tolerance (+/–)**
17
6.7
0.17
18
7.1
0.18
19
7.5
0.18
20
8
0.19
Sizes according to AFNOR and ISO norms ** Tolerances are based on the make of the screens
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THE ETHI OP I A N COF F EE VA LU E C HA I N
CHERRIES 100
PRIMARY PROCESSING
AKARABI² COOP
FARMER¹
CHERRY BUYING UNIT
S U M M E R 2018
PA RC H M E N T VOLCAFE SELECT
“Becoming an exporter is the biggest success in my career. I now can sell clean coffee that I have been working really hard for.” BEKELE HETO, SMALLHOLDER FARMER FROM YIRGACHEFFE
GRE EN VOLCAFE SELECT
ROASTER
IMPORTER
EXPORT PROCESSING
ECX³
¹ Small-holder farmers or large-scale farms ² Local coffee suppliers ³ Ethiopian Commodity Exchange, established in 2008 4 Since 2017/18 farmers are allowed to export coffee without coops or other intermediaries.
⁴
R OA S TED 101
GERMANY FRANCE SWITZERLAND USA
G U AT E M A L A
S PA I N
I TA LY
HONDURAS
C O S TA R I C A COLOMBIA
PERU
VO BRAZIL
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J A PA N
CHINA
INDIA
VIETNAM
ETHIOPIA UGANDA
K E N YA
INDONESIA
SINGAPORE
TA N Z A N I A
PNG
OLCAFE & 0 7 1 4 # ' ( # % . 1 8 ' 914.& 6* VOLCAFE SELECT
AUSTRALIA
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CONTACT SWITZERLAND
GREECE & CYPRUS
Volcafe Select, Volcafe LTD Technoparkstrasse 7 CH–8406 Winterthur T+41 52 264 94 94 select@volcafe.ch
Volcafe Select, WNES Coffee Co. 21, El. Venizelou Str. Glyfada GR–16675 Athens T+30 210 96 50 233 info@wnescoffee.com
GERMANY
ITALY
Gollücke & Rothfos GmbH Schlachte 3–5 GE– 28195 Bremen T+49 421 33 97 33 select@grbcoffee.com
Volcafe Select, Volcafe Italy Schlachte 3–5 IT–16146 Genova T+39 0 100 996 530 eprandi@volcafe.com
SPAIN & PORTUGAL
FRANCE
Volcafe Select, Volcafe Iberia Sagasta 27 ESP–28004 Madrid T+49 421 33 97 33 jose.duclos@volcafe.com
Volcafe Select, Volcafe France 27-29 Rue Chateaubriand FR–75008 Paris T+33 1 42 99 05 52 afournier@volcafe.fr
BALTICS & HUNGARY ED&F MAN Trgovina d.o.o. Dunajska 22 SI–1000 Lubljana T+386-1-2320047 natasa.cerne@edfman.si www.volcafeselect.com Instagram & Facebook: @volcafeselect
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SWITZERLAND GERMANY S PA I N & P O R T U G A L GREECE & CYPRUS I TA LY FRANCE B A LT I C S & H U N G A R Y W W W.V O L C A F E S E L E C T.C O M INSTAGRAM & FACEBOOK: @VOLCAFESELECT