Volcafe Select Catalogue Summer 2017

COFFEE SELECTION Winter 2017/18

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WINTER 2017/18

Dear Readers You may have the impression that there are no blank spots left on the coffee map. Not so. Today, we have far better access to remote coffee growing regions. This gives us the opportunity to better understand both the needs of the local communities and the potential of their coffee crops. In developing exciting new regions and coffee producers, we aim to bring together all the stakeholders along the value chain in beneficial ways. This is a demanding but also very rewarding task.

In this updated edition we highlight an exciting new coffee region: The Rwenzoris. The South West of Uganda has been long neglected by the coffee world, yet it possesses great hidden potential. To give you a small taste of this stunning region of precipitous, snowcapped mountains and deep rainforest, we have recorded a longer interview with Jonny Rowland—a coffee pioneer in the Rwenzoris.

e f a c l o V e ThSelect Team

Enjoy the read & happy Christmas!

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: g n i f s e i i r r o b wenz R 62 p.

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p.26–29

G U AT E M A L A

p.30–33

HONDURAS p.12–17

COLOMBIA

sele p.6–11

BRAZIL

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p.70–73

YEMEN

BRIEFING p.56–67

UGANDA p.52–55

p.34–37

p.20–25

INDIA

ETHIOPIA

p.40–43

INDONESIA

p.44–49

K E N YA

TA N Z A N I A

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S N I G I R O E E F F CO N O I T I S D I E H T IN VOLCAFE SELECT

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B RAZI L

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B R A Z I L

BRAZIL

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here is Latin America, and then there is Brazil. Brazil does coffee differently from the rest of the world and because of the massive scale of coffee production within the country itself, the many regions, farmers, and exporters combine to produce a kaleidoscope of different qualities.

We are especially proud to introduce the Cemorrado Trio, the latest addition to our Brazilian range. This is a range of three exclusive types which we have developed over the last year. The following pages explore their characteristics and distinguishing features.

Most of our Brazils are sourced from Mogiana and Cerrado.

Mogiana borders Sul de Minas to the east. It is a region where exceptionally sweet lots can be found. Cerrado coffees are typically fine and clean, with a good body. It is the newest area in Minas Gerais where the coffee culture is ‘only’ four decades old but has quickly been recoginsed as a reliable, high quality producing region of various fine and commecial coffees.

OUR RANGE: – Fazenda Londrina, NY2/3, Scr15up, natural – Fazenda Nossa Senhora de Fatima, Scr14/18, natural, organic – Fazenda Diamante, Scr14up, natural – Fazenda Grota Funda, Yellow Bourbon, NY2/3, Scr15up, natural – Fazenda Lagoa, Yellow Bourbon, NY2/3, Scr15up, semi-washed – Fazenda Freitas, Scr14up, natural, Volcafe Way – Cemorrado Sweet, Lime & Hazel Edition Further qualities on request.

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POPULATION:

207.8 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 8,678.

CAPITAL:

Brasilia.

COFFEE AREA:

2,302,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

May–Sep.

B R A Z I L

RE D R UBY

R E D A N D Y E L LO W C AT U A I

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he stunning, mountainous state of Minas Gerais with its cobblestone roads, baroque architecture and sprawling mansions, is also the most important coffee producing region in Brazil. Here, ex-dentist Rogerio has run the Sitio Nossa Senhora do Carmo farm since 1999. Lying at an altitude of between 850 to 1,100 meters above sea level and with a mean annual temperature of 23°C, Minas Gerais provides the ideal conditions required for growing high quality coffee. This is Rogerio’s passion.

Rogerio and his wife Norima purchased the farm from his niece in order to move their family away from the rush and stress of their lives in Sao Paolo. They named their farm after the saint beloved by his mother and mother-in-law, the ‘Lady of Carmen’ or Senhora do Carmo. During the holidays Rogerio’s daughters, sons-in-law and grandchildren join them on the farm. This family focus necessitated expansion of the farm’s guestrooms.

In 2000, its first year under new management, Sitio Nossa Senhora do Carmo produced its first crop, with both excellent yield and quality. Since then, Rogerio has been investing in more coffee plants and rubber trees for shading. Besides coffee and rubber, the farm is also developing its existing forest reserves and fruit trees.

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REGION:

South of Minas Gerais.

NAME OF THE FARM:

Sao Goncalo do Sapucai.

FARM:

Sitio Nossa Sra. Do Carmo.

PRODUCER:

Rogerio Gil Lemos.

FARM SIZE:

46 ha. (26 for coffee) CROP PERIOD:

May–Sept.

ALTITUDE:

850–1,100 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Red and Yellow Catuaí PROCESSING:

Natural.

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B R A Z I L

CEMOR R A D O S W E E T, H A Z E L & L I M E

CEMORRADO—A TRIO OF FLAVOUR— HAZEL, SWEET AND LIME

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he Cemorrado Trio is a selected collection in our range of fine Brazilian lots, exclusively created for Volcafe Select. We have chosen three distinctive qualities each boasting a different and seductive profile. Versatile and solid, the trio will provide the perfect backdrop to suit any blend. The characters are defined as Lime, with its fine acidity, Hazel, full-bodied and Sweet, offering honey and chocolate savours.

The Cerrado and Mogiana regions are both recognized for their production of fine Brazilian cups. The three qualities are sourced from both these regions and so combined into the name Cemorrado. Each of the qualities comes from carefully selected shippers guaranteeing consistant quality and longterm availability. We understand that roasters need a reliable source of well defined, clean and consistant Brazils for quality blends and single origins. The Cemorado Trio will not disappoint!

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B R A Z I L

SWEET

A full bodied cup with lingering sweetness and honey notes.

With its sweetness and chocolaty undertones, the Sweet edition of our Cemorrado range is perfectly suited to blends intended for milk creations such as a creamy flat white or a Cappucino.

HAZEL

Hazelnut notes with dark chocolate and caramel; full-bodied, fine roast.

Either as single origin or as a base for a distinguished, rich blend.

Fine hazelnut notes form a harmonious match for a classic espresso blend.

LIME

Fine acidity, refined citric notes, elegant and soft. Medium body.

The Lime edition is perfectly suited for a filter or V60 pour-over.

Its delicate lime notes elevate the superior blend.

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CO LO M BI A

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C O L O M B I A

CO LOM B I A

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olombia unfurls majestically across the northwestern corner of South America, with seaports in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and the Andes crossing from south to north. The country has a wide variety of environmental conditions and climates, from deserts to glaciers, with the bio-diversity to match.

Coffee is synonymous with Colombia. The history of the nation and the commodity have been intertwined even before the first major production boom in the 1870s. However, low prices and reduced farmer profitability, along with negative weather and diseases, sent the nation’s production to a multi-decade low in 2011/12, down 45% from just three years before. Since then output has rebounded as rejuvenated fields started producing and both weather and prices improved.

Production in Colombia is predominantly in the hands of small holders who process their own crops. Approximately 60% of the nation‘s production comes from farms under 5 hectares in size. The major production regions are Huila, where the soil is rich in volcanic ashes and offers a high level of organic material, Antioquia and Tolima.

OUR RANGE: – Caldas Excelso, washed – Cauca Excelso, washed – Huila Excelso, washed – Microlot Java, natural – Microlat Pink Bourbon, Finca Los Credos, washed – Microlot Red Bourbon, Finca Esmeralda, washed – Microlot Yellow Bourbon, Finca Esmeralda, washed – Huila Supremo Scr17up, washed – Huila Supremo Scr18up, washed

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POPULATION:

48.2 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 6,056.

CAPITAL:

Bogota.

COFFEE AREA:

770,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

All year.

C O L O M B I A

F IN C A ES M ER A L DA R E D A N D Y E L LO W B O U R B O N

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he nutrient-rich volcanic soils of the Pitalito municipality of Huila, deep in the central-eastern mountain ranges of Columbia, form an ideal situation for the Finca Esmeralda coffee farm.

At Finca Esmeralda, the coffee is handpicked by Mr. Libardo Pihedrahita Santa and his family. When the picking and sorting is done, the coffee is fermented without water for 24 hours under controlled conditions. Then the beans are sun-dried until they reach the right humidity, after which they are packed and shipped.

Mr. Libardo Pihedrahita is proud of his soft bodied cup that has light citric acidity and a round finish.

REGION:

Pitalito, Huila.

FARM:

Finca Esmeralda PRODUCER:

Libardo Pihedrahita Santa.

FARM SIZE:

5 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Sept.–Nov.

ALTITUDE:

1,600 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Red and Yellow Bourbon.

PROCESSING:

Washed.

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C O L O M B I A

F INCA LOS C R ED OS PINK BOURBON

A RARE VARIATION OF BOURBON

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amed after its distinctive pink colour, Pink Bourbon is a rare variation of the Bourbon variety created from hybridizations of Yellow and Red Bourbon.

It is a challenge to produce it consistently and pickers will find it difficult to determine the ripeness of the fruit. However, the cup is outstanding with sweet peach and rose notes, and a silky body, and therefore certainly worth the effort.

Finca Los Credos is owned by Eleodoro Galindez and his family.

He founded the farm of 10 hectares 20 years ago in the village of Alto de la Cruz in Pitalito, part of the Huila Region. Located 1,650 meters above sea level between the central and eastern mountain ranges in Colombia, Finca Los Credos experiences great conditions for the production of coffee as there is a good humid climate throughout the year.

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REGION:

Pitalito.

FARMER:

Eleodoro Galindez.

FARM SIZE:

10 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Sep.–Nov./May–June.

ALTITUDE:

1,650 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Pink Bourbon.

PROCESSING:

Washed.

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F INCA EL R OB L E J AVA

THE FIRST NATURAL PROCESSED LOT FROM FINCA EL ROBLE

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ive years ago, Mr. Jairo López received coffee seeds from the Colmbian center for coffee research called Cenicafe—The Centro Nacional de Investigaciones de Café. This was not just the birth of the Colombian Java variety, but also meant to be the first natural processed lot from Finca El Roble.

For 64 years, Finca El Roble has been run by the family of Jairo López. El Roble is situated at 1,550 m.a.s.l. in Piajo, a department of Quindío. The economy of Quindío is based on agriculture, especially coffee, sugar cane, lulo and blackberry and some pine plantations in the mountains.

REGION:

Pijao, Quindío.

FARMER:

Jairo & Edilberto López.

FARM SIZE:

40 hectars.

CROP PERIOD:

April–June.

ALTITUDE:

1,550 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Java.

PROCESSING:

Natural.

Only the ripe, red cherries have been hand picked for this lot. The coffee has been sun dried for 20–25 days during which it was collected, stacked and covered overnight to keep the same temperature. After it reached the optimum moisture level it was packed in grain pro bags.

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E T H I O P I A

ET H I OP I A

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he smell of roasting coffee is an ever-present part of life and travel in Ethiopia. Tradition dictates that guests are welcomed with a coffee ceremony, in which green coffee is freshly roasted, brewed in a clay pot, and served in three rounds.

Wild arabica trees can still be found in Ethiopia’s forests, though their contribution to overall production is quite small (less than 5%). Production of “semi-forest” coffee, a term for coffee that has been planted under a dense canopy of indigenous shade trees is much more common. It has enabled Ethiopia to keep large tracts of its old forests and biodiversity intact. There is also “garden” production, which appears more similar to smallholder farming systems found elsewhere in the world and is most prevalent in the southern and eastern parts of the country.

OUR RANGE: – Guji Grade 1, natural – Harrar Longberry Grade 4, natural – Sidamo Grade 2 Top, washed – Yirgacheffe Grade 1, natural – Yirgacheffe Grade 2, washed

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POPULATION:

99.4 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 619.2.

CAPITAL:

Addis Ababa.

COFFEE AREA:

694,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Oct.–Feb.

E T H I O P I A

“Due to its diverse growing regions and indigenous tree varieties, Ethiopia offers an unparalleled range of unique cup characteristics.”

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E T H I O P I A

G UJ I

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ncreasingly, Guji coffee is been receiving avid attention from the specialty coffee world because of its exceptional flavours. Guji, a zone of the Oromo region of Ethiopia, is located south of Sidamo, a well-known coffee region.

Both geographically and in terms of flavours, Guji coffees are distinct from the well-known lots originating in the Yirgacheffe Region just a little further north. Coffees from Guji exhibit typical Ethiopian cup characteristics, but the profile is more chocolate-spicy compared to the fruity Sidamo and Yirgacheffe lots.

Overall, the profile balances sweet, fruity notes with a hint of acidity.

The small-scale farmers of Guji live in harmony with nature at an altitude of 1,800–2,300m above sea level. Coffee cultivation in Guji is a relatively new phenomenon compared to other regions of Ethiopia. The young coffee plants grow in mineral-rich volcanic soils—a conducive environment for Arabica coffee strains.

The blazing-red cherries from the wild coffee trees are hand-picked and then brought to the washing station. Within 24 hours, the ripe cherries are pulped in a wet mill. Once all the sugars have broken down in the fermentation tank, the coffee is washed in long water channels. Then the coffee will be gradually sun-dried for 9 to 14 days. The beans are turned several times a day to allow them to dry evenly. It is well known that the way in which the coffee is dried has a direct impact on the quality and taste of this excellent variety.

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REGION:

Yirgacheffe.

CROP PERIOD:

Nov.–Feb.

ALTITUDE:

1,800–2,000 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Heirloom.

PROCESSING:

Washed.

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GUATEM AL A

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G UAT E M A L A

GUATE MAL A

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uatemala, the land of the eternal spring, is where trees always bloom and rainbows appear ever so often. It is the heartland of the ancient Mayan civilisation and defined by its legacy. It is also a country with picturesque buildings and a superb natural scenery; but above all the country is home to many outstanding coffees.

Guatemala produces mainly washed arabica, though a small volume of washed robusta is produced in the south west of the country. Coffee is grown from 650 to 1,800 meters above sea level. The average coffee producer plants two to three hectares of coffee; 98% of Guatemalan coffee farmers are smallholders.

Anacafe (a public, non-profit producer organization) has been working diligently to identify and group the main coffee regions and to define them by cup characteristics, micro climates and coffee culture. The broad range of Guatemalan coffees can be divided into eight well defined high altitude coffee regions: Acatenango, Antigua, Atitlan, Coban, Fraijanes, Huehuetenango, Oriente and San Marcos.

OUR RANGE: Qualities on request

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POPULATION:

16.3 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 3,904.

CAPITAL:

Guatemala City.

COFFEE AREA:

277,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Dec.–Mar.

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PA S TO RE S

S M O O T H B O D Y, C H O C O L AT E A F T E R TA S T E

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he world famous “Genuine Antigua Quality” is grown on the slopes of the volcano Agua above 1,600 ma.s.l. There are only a few big plantations, some medium sized farmers and producers with a crop of around 50–100 bags.

A UNIQUE MILL—ENTIRELY MADE OF WOOD In our mill ‘Pastores’, we receive only the best cherries from a few carefully selected farmers. Tremendous efforts are needed to maintain the quality over so many decades. The Pastores Mill has a rich and long history. It started out as a flour mill in the early 1900’s and only became a coffee processing mill in the 1960’s.

REGION:

Slopes of the volcano Agua.

ALTITUDE:

1,600 m.a.s.l.

HARVEST:

Dec.–March.

VARIETY:

Bourbon, Arabigo.

SOIL:

Volcanic Soil.

PROCESSING:

Washed.

The entire coffee flow in the mill is made of wood-an exquisite exemplar of the carpenter’s craft. Preserving these traditional features and methods has meant that the mill maintains its charm and beauty as well as producing a consistent and distinctive quality of coffee.

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HO N D URAS

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H O N D U R A S

HO ND UR A S

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onduras is a stunning country—its biodiversity and natural beauty are breathtaking. Besides the average commercial coffee, the country is producing extrordinary micro lots with great structure, tropical fruit flavors and a syrupy body.

Although a growth rate of 7% would suggest a dynamic young economy, Honduras is unfortunately still one of the poorest countries within Latin America and is facing a staggering unemployment rate of almost 30%. Needless to say that this makes society and especially the country’s youth vulnerable to social unrest and organized crime. In general, the economy is heavily dependent on raw materials—such as green coffee—and the textile industry.

With 7.1 million bags of green coffee produced in 2016/17, Honduras is Central America´s largest coffee producer. Coffee continues to play an important role in the economy, being the country’s leading agricultural export and accounting for roughly 5% of overall GDP. Also in the specialty coffee industry, Honduras is a rising star.

Farmers and exporters have invested heavily into infrastructure and especially their knowledge and expertise. If you are willing to sift through the masses of Honduras’ coffee production, you will be rewarded with finding some exceptional lots.

OUR RANGE: – SHG, Fairtrade & Organic – SHG, Organic from CAFICO, sailed CO2-free to Europe

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POPULATION:

8.07 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 4,959.

CAPITAL:

Tegucigalpa.

COFFEE AREA:

409,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Nov.–April.

H O N D U R A S

COP R OC A EL

C O O P E R AT I VA D E P R O D U C TO R E S D E C A F É L A E N C A R N A C I Ó N L I M I TA D A

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a Encarnación, a mountainous municipality in the Ocotepeque district, is located in south-west Honduras near the border of Guatemala. The volcanic soil and microclimate created by the cloud-shrouded mountain ranges are favourable for growing coffee.

The Cooperativa de Productores de Café La Encarnación Limitada (Coprocael) was founded in 2000 to support local producers with better product prices, expand the labour market as well as strengthening road infrastructure. Coprocael grows coffee in sandy loam soils that contain organic matter.

The cooperative aims to maintain strict standards in the coffee process to reduce environmental contamination and water consumption while guaranteeing the quality consistency and traceability.

Coprocael’s central wet mill uses aquapulping, which is an eco-friendly substitute for the normal pulping. Though the farm has the capacity to traditionally wet process, aquapulping is preferred over the traditional former process because it is water efficient. Coffee is alternatively dried using passive solar drying, patio drying and drying machines.

Coprocael owns and manages a small but highly productive farm which had previously been completely arid. The land is now transformed using deep mulching and worm composting. The worm composting system planted on the cooperative’s site composts the left-over coffee pulp which is used for organic production. The plot of land is also useful for teaching other farmers about productive organic farming practices and their impact.

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REGION:

Ocotepeque.

NAME OF THE COOP.:

Coprocael.

COOP. SIZE:

180 producers.

CROP PERIOD:

Dec.–April.

ALTITUDE:

1,100–1,750 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Caturra and Catuai.

QUALITY:

SHG EP/SHG Fancy PROCESSING:

Washed.

EXPORT POTENTIAL:

30,000–40,000 bags (69 kg each).

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I ND I A

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I N D I A

I ND I A

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ost Indian coffees originate along the Western Ghats mountain range in the south-west of India. This includes the two states of Karnataka and Kerala. To the east, Tamil Nadu produces an excellent arabica which is partly consumed in the state itself— the only coffee drinking Indian state. Interestingly, coffee is farmed more and more in the Eastern Ghats which mainly include the state of Andrah Pradesh. And even the North-Eastern States— mainly Assam—are producing a little coffee.

India mainly produces robusta which is appreciated for its soft, sometimes sweet, spicy and herbal cup, depending on the preparation of the coffee. The arabica on the other hand is well-balanced and mild. Its light body, relatively low acidity and subtle and unique spicy notes produce a very desirable, versatile cup.

OUR RANGE: ARABICA:

– Bynecool Estate, Plantation AA, washed – Bynecool Estate, Plantation A, washed – Monsooned Malabar AA, Aspinwall – Monsooned Malabar AA, Nedcoffee ROBUSTA:

– Kaapi Royale A, washed – Monsooned Robusta, Aspinwall – Manamboli Estate, Parchment AB

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POPULATION:

1.311 billion.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 1,593.

CAPITAL:

New Delhi.

COFFEE AREA:

410,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Nov.–Mar.

I N D I A

MANAM B OL I ES TATE

W I N N E R O F T H E F L AV O U R O F I N D I A AWA R D

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anamboli Estate planted its first coffee trees in the 1930’s.

Located in the pristine inner valley of the Anamalai Hills— in the southern region of the Western Ghats mountains—Manamboli Estate receives abundant year-round monsoon rains which aid excellent, uniform bean development. The area is also renowned for its unique fauna and is under consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

REGION:

Anamalai Hills.

FARM:

Manamboli Estate.

FARM SIZE:

200 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Dec.–Jan.

ALTITUDE:

On the Manamboli, the Arabica and Robusta coffee varieties are handpicked and afterwards processed using the double-washed method, before the beans are carefully sun dried on patios.

1,000–1,200 m.a.s.l.

Our Robusta Parchment AB comes with a medium body, with subtle tones of hazelnut and chocolate, ensuring a mild cup without bitterness. This delicate and multifarious cup profile is what makes this quality coffee the winner of the Flavour of India award.

Washed.

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VARIETY:

Cofea Canephora.

PROCESSING:

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I N DO NESI A

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I N D O N E S I A

INDONES I A

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ramatic landscapes, more than 17,000 islands and nearly 100 volcanos—Indonesia is a kaleidoscope of cultures, people, animals, plants, artwork and food. It has a rich history in coffee and is one of the world‘s oldest producers. Although arabicas represent a small percentage of Indonesian production they are considered some of the best in the world, priced for their richness, full body, long finish, earthiness and gentle acidity. But the challenge is to find the right sources, process properly and achieve consistent quality.

OUR RANGE: ARABICA:

– Blue Batak, wet hulled – Raya Lintong Grade 1, semi-washed – Sumatra Mandheling Grade 1, triple picked, wet hulled ROBUSTA:

– Gunung Teron, Java WIB 1, Large Bean, washed – Gunung Terong, Java WIB 1, Medium Bean, washed

GILING BASAH Giling Basah is a wet-hulled processing method, a process isolated to parts of Indonesia. In this process the wet coffee parchment is kept fermenting in bags overnight. Then the parchment is only marginally dried before being stripped from the bean. After drying, the coffee bean turns into a slight bluish jade (hence the term ‘blue’). The method, locally called ‘Giling Basah’ gives excellent body and an outstanding character to the coffee. This creates an incredibly sweet and heavy bodied cup.

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POPULATION:

257,6 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 3,347.

CAPITAL:

Jakarta.

COFFEE AREA:

956,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

May–Dec.

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I N D O N E S I A

BLU E B ATA K

HERBAL, RED GRAPE & GRAPEFRUIT BIT TERS

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ingtong lies on the South-Western tip of Lake Toba, high on a plateau with a notable diversity of tree ferns. This richly volcanic region is known for fertile soils, myriad microclimates created by small valleys. Around 70,000 years ago, a massive supervolcano erupted in Lintong. The enormous eruption left many lakes and incredibly fertile soil in its wake. In fact, the soil is so rich that the local tribe (the Batak) say, you can put a chair in the ground, and it will become a table. The majority of farms are small in size, and self-sufficiency is a key value here. The local farmers sometimes cultivate more than 10 different crops on their small estates.

Blue Batak Grade 1 is a truly special coffee—everything from farm to drying is done by hand. At sunrise, farmers start picking the ripe cherries before pulping them with manual pulpers. After storing the wet parchment in bags to ferment overnight, the parchment is spread out on patios to dry. When the parchment is dry enough, it takes on a deep blue-greenish color and is ready for hulling. Another two or three days are needed for further drying before the coffee is triple handpicked and packed. Our local facility in Para Tusan handles the different processing steps.

What makes this coffee unique? Contrary to most coffees these lots have been sourced by us directly from farmers. Such a supply chain allows to two things: First, we can avoid the middlemen (Tokeh) who normally collect the coffee from the farmers and sell the parchment on the local market. The main advantage however is the level of control we have over the quality. We keep the individual lots separate as long as possible in order to trace the quality along all the different processing steps. Once we know the final client we ship the individual microlot or blend smaller lots into a macrolot which has the requested cup profile. This is unique in Indonesia.

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REGION:

Lintong.

NAME OF THE FARM:

Small holder farmers.

FARM SIZE:

0.5 to 2 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Sept.–Jan. and April–June ALTITUDE:

1,450 to 1,600 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Sigarar Utang/Ateng.

PROCESSING:

Giling Basah.

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K E N YA

KENYA

K

enya occupies a special place in the heart of gourmet coffee lovers around the world. Straddling the equator, the production areas benefit from high altitudes and rich volcanic soils, and are blessed with a coffee culture, tradition and system which promotes and rewards quality.

The production area lie between 1,200 and 1,800 metres above sea level, mainly in the hilly and fertile centre of the country. Mt. Kenya, which at 5,200 metres is the second highest peak on the continent, dominates the coffee landscape and remains a sacred place for the Kikuyu tribe, one of the biggest tribes in Kenya.

Smallholders, who account for at least 60% of total production and the majority of top qualities, are organized into cooperatives, each with one or more wet mills or ‘factories’. The strong social structure built around these factories provides for vibrant rural coffee communities where generations of farmers uphold traditional values and practices.

OUR RANGE: KIAMBU COUNTY – Githaka AA Microlot.

– Kitamaiyu, AB Top Further qualities on request.

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POPULATION:

46 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 1,377.

CAPITAL:

Nairobi.

COFFEE AREA:

138,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Oct–Jan/ May–July.

K E N YA

“Kenyan coffee offers bright citric acidity combined with floral, blackcurrant or ripe plum flavours and a rich velvety body.”

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K E N YA

MU RA NG A A ND KIAMB U COUNT Y

F

arms in Kenya are typically smallholdings with an average size of 2 acres. In addition to their coffee, farmers also allocate land to food crops and Napier grass for their cows.

The freshly harvested cherries are delivered to cooperative run washing stations and consolidated with other members’ deliveries, thereby creating some economies of scale for the fully washed primary processing and subsequent secondary and export processing.

The centralized location of the factory, together with healthy leadership, provides an important identity and social structure within the local community.

The centralized auction, known as the Nairobi Coffee Exchange, provides for a transparent and competitive internal marketing system, through which the farmers can sell their clearly identifiable and traceable produce at the most value added stage possible— milled and graded, ready for export. Quality discrimination is encouraged and the better qualities are very visibly rewarded with the best prices—a true meritocracy.

Our carefully selected lots, from the peak of the crop, are unique single factory coffees picked from Muranga and Kiambu counties.

Red volcanic soils, rich in iron, combine with clear wet and dry seasons to provide a temperate climate characterized by cool nights and hot days—all positive for bean development and plant growth.

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GITHAKA PRODUCER:

Githaka Estate.

FARM SIZE:

67 ha.

ALTITUDE:

1,666 m.a.s.l.

SOIL TYPE:

Deep red volcanic soils, rich in organic matter.

VARIETY:

Mostly SL28.

PROCESSING:

Washed.

SCREEN SIZE:

18 up.

CUP:

Floral, bright acidity, good body.

KITAMAIYU PRODUCER:

Kitamaiyu Estate.

FARM SIZE:

600 acres.

ALTITUDE:

1,600 m.a.s.l.

SOIL TYPE:

Deep red volcanic soils, rich in organic matter.

VARIETY:

Exclusively traditional SL28 and SL34.

PROCESSING:

Washed.

SCREEN SIZE:

16 up.

CUP:

Floral, sweet, good body.

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TA N ZAN I A

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or decades Tanzania was considered to be the little coffee brother of Kenya. Fortunately this has changed. Today, Tanzania is not only producing more coffee than its northern neighbour but has also developed an individual, flavoursome and widely appreciated cup profile. The sheer size of the country results in very distinct coffee growing regions. In the north, on the slope of Kilimanjaro, around Arusha and finally in Karatu close to the famous Ngorongoro crater and the Serengeti national park we find larger estates alongside well organized cooperatives. The south which includes regions close to Mbeya, Iringa and Mbinga are dominated by small scale farmers. Kigoma at the shore of Lake Tanganyika is home to some fascinating lots—the full potential is still to be discovered. And finally Bukoba close to the Ugandan border is where the Tanzanian robusta is sourced from.

There are two distinct marketing channels: the main volume is traded over the coffee auction in Moshi every Thursday. Alternatively the coffee can also be sourced directly from exporters or importers. No matter which channel, the coffee can be traced back to the cooperative or estate.

Our range: Our offers include estate coffees from the north as well as selected lots from cooperatives in Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru as well as the Mbozi, close to Mbeya.

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POPULATION:

53.5 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 879.

CAPITAL:

Dodoma.

COFFEE AREA:

126,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Sept.–Feb.

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MAM S ER A

M I L K C H O C O L AT E N OT E S W I T H A S I L K Y B O DY

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amsera Amcos was founded in 1984 and initially served farmers in 3 villages (Mamsera Juu, Mamsera Chini and Mamsera Kati). Currently the group is still operating in these villages but has expanded to cover several neighbouring villages as well.

Mamsera is managed by 10 board members who are all farmer members of the group. These board members are elected every 3 years. The cooperative has expanded its income activities by setting up ‘farm support shops’ which service the farmers in the area.

Taylor Winch Tanzania, Volcafe’s exporting operation in Tanzania, has been offering farmer support services to Mamsera since 2014.

In 2015, Taylor Winch supported the group through the UTZ certification scheme and the group became one of only two farmer groups in Tanzania to achieve the UTZ certification.

REGION:

Rombo District.

NAME OF THE FARM:

Mamsera Amcos Cooperative.

FARM SIZE:

800 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

June–Dec.

ALTITUDE:

1,400 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Kent & Bourbon.

PROCESSING:

Washed.

CERTIFICATION:

UTZ.

“Mamsera Amcos provides farming supply shops for its members.”

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ganda lies in the heart of East Africa on the shores of Lake Victoria, straddles the equator and is the source of the Nile.

Sir Winston Churchill first described Uganda as the “Pearl of Africa”, while admiring its “magnificent variety of form and colour, profusion of brilliant life and its vast scale.” Benefiting from a bi-modal rainfall season and high altitudes, the country has a pleasant climate all year round and is lush with greenery.

The mountain ranges to the east and west are home to Uganda’s arabica farmers, while robusta is produced on the central plateau.

Almost all of the coffee is produced by smallholder farmers who intercrop their coffee fields with shade and banana trees. The government of Uganda promotes coffee production as a key driver for rural transformation.

OUR RANGE: ARABICA:

– Mount Elgon Gibuzale, Farmer Lot, washed – Moint Elgon Gibuzale, washed – Rwenzori Fancy, Farmer Lot, natural ROBUSTA:

– Queen of the Nile, washed

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POPULATION:

39 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 714.

CAPITAL:

Kampala.

COFFEE AREA:

256,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

July–Feb. (arabica) Nov.–March & May–Aug. (robusta).

U G A N DA

MOU NT ELG ON F R O M T H E LU S H S LO P E S O F A N E X T I N C T V O LC A N O

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ount Elgon, located in Bugisu region of Uganda is an extinct volcano on the border with Kenya. Variations in altitude, climate and soils enable production of different lots. Coffee on Mount Elgon is hand-picked due to the small farm sizes, mountainous terrain and long harvesting seasons.

More than 7,000 smallholder families take part in the coffee farm which began operations in 2007 and has been expanding ever since. It consists of a cherry value chain where home processed parchments are purchased from farmer groups.

Arabica grows favourably in plentiful rainfall, partly volcanic soils and shade from banana trees. The coffee is known for having great balance and a smooth cup combined with a medium acidity and good body. Chocolate overtones and citric, floral notes make this lot one of the finest produced in Uganda.

The structure of Kyagalanyi Coffee LTD broadly supports farm households to sustainably increase coffee production and quality. More than 8,000 individual households and 750 groups are provided with training every year. The staff at Kyagalanyi use participatory, hands-on approaches and a variety of training materials to transfer knowledge and skills. Additionally, the farmers are provided with not-for-profit nurseries, agro-input stores and a fertilizer bonus scheme. Rural youth are mentored to develop coffee service provider businesses while the promotion of mobile money transactions encourages savings.

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REGION:

Mount Elgon.

CROP PERIOD:

Oct.–Jan.

ALTITUDE:

1,100–2,200 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Nyasaland and Bugisu since 1920 (30%). More recent introductions: SL14, SL28, SL34, KP423 and Ruiru 11.

PROCESSING:

Fully washed and sorted by hand.

CERTIFICATION:

UTZ, RFA, 4C.

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MILLING AND QUALITY CONTROL Considering the small farm sizes, mountainous or hilly terrain and long harvesting seasons, it is no wonder that all of Uganda’s coffee is hand-picked. After harvesting, farmers deliver the cherries to one of Kyagalanyi’s six washing stations. To conserve the environment, the coffee is processed using eco-pulpers, dripped on racks and sun-dried in green houses. Other farmers home process their coffee using hand-pulpers provided by Kyagalanyi. After primary processing, the coffee is brought down to our drying, pre-cleaning and warehouse facility in Mbale. Located at the foot of the mountain, the warmer and drier climate assists with the final drying of the parchment.

All Mt. Elgon parchment is transported to Kyagalanyi’s new dry mill in Namanve. Here it is milled, graded and prepared for export in a first class dry mill. Continuous improvement to the infrastructure in East Africa ensures transit time to Mombasa Port in Kenya is shortening.

The investments in infrastructure and Kyagalanyi’s policy to reward quality with higher prices and pay bonuses are central to the remarkable quality improvements of the Mt. Elgon coffees in the last decade.

KYAGALANYI COFFEE LTD Volcafe’s Exporting entity, Kyagalanyi Coffee LTD, is the oldest licensed private coffee exporter in Uganda and was created when the coffee industry was liberalised in 1992. Kyagalanyi has been ISO 9001:2008 and OHSAS certified since 2000 and 2009 respectively.

In 2015, the company opened its new, state-of-the-art dry mill in Namanve, Kampala and a pre-cleaning, drying and warehousing facility in Mbale, eastern Uganda. Through its sustainable coffee schemes, 8 washing stations and 4 mobile buying units, Kyagalanyi is able to participate in the whole coffee value chain.

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T HE R WE N ZO RI S A CHANGING COFFEE L ANDSCAPE

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n this edition, we would like to give you a personal insight into an exciting new coffee region in Africa—the Rwenzoris. Situated in the southwest of Uganda and bordering the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Rwanda and Burudi, the Rwenzori mountains are a lush paradise of tropical rainforest on their lower slopes, rising to six peaks in excess of 4,500m above sea level. The highest of these are permanently snow-capped—right on the equator!

Here in the very heart of Africa, the coffees of this remote region have long been neglected by exporters, traders and roasters alike.

But recently, this region’s hidden potential has begun to come to light. Among the fortunate ‘early adopters’ is our local company, Kyagalanyi Coffee Ltd. Together with a local partner they are systematically building up a new value chain—changing the coffee landscape sustainably.

On the following pages, we would like to introduce you to Jonny Rowland, founder of Agri Evolve and a key figure in the region’s development. Here is his firsthand perspective on what is happening on the ground:

INTERVIEW WITH JONNY ROWLAND, MANAGER AT AGRI EVOLVE WHO IS JONNY ROWLAND?

I’m 25 years old from the UK and I’m very passionate about farming! I worked on several farms in the UK before I joined Reading University to study a degree in agronomics. A little more than two years ago I decided to move to Uganda and more specifically to Kisinga at the foothills of the Rwenzori mountains. Once there I started my own business: Agri Evolve.

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WHAT IS AGRIEVOLVE?

We are a small agri-business that was set up with the aim of improving productivity and profitability for Ugandan farmers. We are excited to see real impact on the ground and believe that the Rwenzoris are the perfect place to start implementing our vision.

We are closely working together with Kyagalanyi Coffee Ltd [Volcafe in Uganda].

CAN YOU INTRODUCE US TO THE RWENZORI MOUNTAINS?

It is a wonderful place: the Rwenzori Mountains are sandwiched between the thick jungles of the Congo and the massive highland lakes of East Africa. Apart from the snow-covered peaks of Mount Stanley, the region is hilly and enormously green. The volcanic soil is rich in nutrients and together with the seasonal rains, conditions are excellent for farming.

AND WHO LIVES THERE?

The main tribe is called Bakonzo who live primarily in the Congo and partly in Uganda. For many years the area was unstable and therefore the Bakonzo decided to live in the mountains, being protected by and being protective of the hills. About 80% of the people are small scale farmers with an average farm size of 2-5 acres. Coffee is traditionally their main cash crop. They would normally intercrop the coffee with Plantain which they sell on the local market. Sporadically, farmers are also growing Vanilla to earn

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some money. But unfortunately, prices are extremely volatile which caused production to reduce over time. Finally, in the North of the Rwenzori region we see some Cocoa farming. Other crops such as vegetables, ground nuts, beans and maize are for home consumption and/or the local market.

WHY DID YOU START WORKING IN THE RWENZORIS TWO YEAR AGO?

I came here because my parents lived in the area between 19861991—before I was born—so I was never here as a child but we had connections. During University I decided to come out with my Dad and see the opportunities out here. I always had a passion for Africa and a desire to work here.

I was immediately taken by the potential and the challenges. For me it was a very exciting prospect to live and work here. I am excited by working on projects where I can see a lot of potential for growth and development, I am motivated by creating change and having a positive impact—here in Uganda I feel I can do that.

HOW DID YOU FIND THIS PARTICULAR COFFEE SUPPLY CHAIN?

The coffee supply chain was previously dominated by middle men.

The quality of the coffee was very poor. Farmers were frustrated by the prices. The main reason was a lack of knowledge and hence poor farming practices, as well as the absence of a transparent market that would have given the farmer the necessary incentive to improve their production over time.

It is common knowledge that the raw material is of very good quality and has still huge potential—but this potential has not been well utilized. Given the strings of middlemen and the fact that there was no premium for better quality, the farmer basically didn’t 64

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“To foster more transparency, we created a mobile app on which farmers can check the daily prices for the different qualities.” know and understand the value of his coffee. They had low expectations and little motivation to improve. And this is exactly what we wanted to change!

WHAT IS YOUR OVERALL OBJECTIVE WITH THE LOCAL FARMERS?

Primarily we want to improve the livelihoods of farmers through better coffee farming—how do we do that?—better quality, better yields, better processing—add value to the coffee, and create a market for it.

Initially, our vision is all about quality improvements. We are working directly with local farmers and give our staff clear instructions to buy only red cherries instead of under-ripe cherries. At the same time, we can pay the farmer a slightly better price as first the quality of the coffee we produce is better. To foster more transparency, we created a mobile app on which farmers can check the daily prices for the different qualities. This allows them to make more informed decisions.

HOW DO YOU MAKE SURE THAT THE FARMERS GET THE TRAINING THEY NEED TO IMPROVE THE QUALITY?

We currently reach about 4,000 farmers through our farmer training scheme. The target is to have about 1,000 farmers UTZ certified by spring 2018. This takes quite an effort: we organize farmer training, build demo plots and model farms to build up necessary expertise.

WHERE DO YOU SEE THE GREATEST POTENTIAL FOR THE COFFEE FARMERS IN THE RWENZORIS?

Ultimately, we want to move from producing a low-quality natural—known as ‘drugar’—to processing high end naturals and washed coffee. This would allow us to convince more roasters of VOLCAFE SELECT

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“The increased income from producing high quality coffee will have a significant impact on the farmers, their families and the whole community leading to improvements in health, education and basic community infrastructure.” the quality and ensure that the farmers get the best price possible.

Besides quality improvements, there is also huge potential in the Rwenzoris to utilize the vast areas of available land to grow more coffee.

HOW DO WE MEASURE IMPACT?

On a local level, we see it and hear about it—feedback from farmers, community, leaders—if we are buying more coffee and seeing quality improve we must be doing something right.

HOW CAN ROASTERS HELP TO PUSH THE REGION FORWARD?

The main thing is to buy the coffee and speak about it! We want to change the perception of Rwenzori coffee being low quality; to remove all this negativity around it. We have already seen big improvements in the past 18 months and we need roasters to get behind us and support our long-term objective.

We need to explain to roasters and coffee drinkers around the world what we are doing so that they can recognize our honest efforts to bring about positive change in the region. That will lead to us being able to do more, and those prices get passed through to the farmers’ level and farmers start seeing change.

WHERE DO YOU SEE RWENZORI (COFFEE) FARMERS 10 YEARS FROM NOW?

It is a long-term project and we are committed to working in this community. I dream of tasty micro lots and berry like washed cof66

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fees that are comparable to other high-end coffees from the continent. On a farm level, we will see much better farming practices being used—this covers agronomy, processing and marketing.

Yields of coffee will be higher and farmers will have planted more coffee and will ultimately receive a “pay check” that reflects the true value of their efforts.

And finally, the increased income from producing high quality coffee will have a significant impact on the farmers, their families and the whole community leading to improvements in health, education and basic community infrastructure.

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Y EMEN M I C R OLOTS C H E R R Y C A N DY, L I N G E R I N G A C I D I T Y

YEMEN: AN ANCIENT COUNTRY WITH AN ANCIENT FARMING SYSTEM

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erraced hills and mountains reveal a people’s resilience to outdo the tough conditions of their surroundings. All Yemeni coffee is naturally processed as water is not in plentiful supply. The coffee is probably the cleanest naturally processed coffee in the world, with only the ripest cherries being picked and very low intensity farming and processing.

This lot has been produced by individual farmers living about 45 km west of the country’s capital Sana’a in a region called Al-Haimah.

After picking, these farmers then dry the cherries in the traditional way on the rooves of their houses.

The current political situation with the Houthi Rebels fighting the Yemeni government and Saudi Arabia and Iran intervening on both sides brought the private economy—including coffee exports—almost to a standstill.

OUR RANGE: – Al-Ghayoul microlot.

– Abu Al-Wudiyyan, microlot.

Further qualities on request.

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POPULATION:

26.8 mio.

GDP PER CAPITA:

$ 1,406.

CAPITAL:

Sanaa.

COFFEE AREA:

35,000 ha.

CROP PERIOD:

Dec.–Jan. REGION:

Al-Haimah.

CROP PERIOD:

Dec–Jan.

ALTITUDE:

1,800–2,400 m.a.s.l.

VARIETY:

Various Heirlooms.

PROCESSING:

Natural, sun dried.

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HARVES T C A L ENDA R

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COSTA R IC A NICAR A G EN EM

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OL O

AN

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76

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DRYING

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WASHING

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AL VOLCAFE SELECT

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EY

COF F EE S C R EENS Nr. of screens

Ø in mm

12

4.75 0.14

13 5

Tolerance (+/–)**

0.14

14 5.6 0.15

15 6

0.16

16 6.3 0.17

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Nr. of screens

Ø in mm

Tolerance (+/–)**

17 6.7 0.17

18 7.1 0.18

19 7.5 0.18

20 8

0.19

Sizes according to AFNOR and ISO norms ** Tolerances are based on the make of the screens

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GERMANY FRANCE SWITZERLAND USA

G U AT E M A L A

S PA I N

I TA LY

HONDURAS

C O S TA R I C A COLOMBIA

PERU

VO BRAZIL

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J A PA N

CHINA

INDIA

VIETNAM

ETHIOPIA UGANDA

K E N YA

INDONESIA

SINGAPORE

TA N Z A N I A

PNG

OLCAFE AUSTRALIA

D N U O R A E F A C VOL E WORLD TH VOLCAFE SELECT

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SWITZERLAND

RENÉ FLEISCHER

VOLCAFE SELECT

rfleischer@volcafe.ch

Volcafe LTD Technoparkstrasse 7 CH­–8406 Winterthur T+41 52 264 94 94 select@volcafe.ch

PASCAL HERZOG

pherzog@volcafe.ch REENA EDDIKS

rseddiks@volcafe.ch

GERMANY

TOBIAS SCHWIND tschwind@grbcoffee.com

Gollücke & Rothfos GmbH Schlachte 3–5 GE– 28195 Bremen T+49 421 33 97 33 select@grbcoffee.com

RONJA WALPERT rwalpert@grbcoffee.com

VOLCAFE SELECT

HANNES MÜFFELMANN hmueffelmann@grbcoffee.com

www.volcafeselect.com Instagram & Facebook: @volcafeselect

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SWITZERLAND

VOLCAFE SELECT Volcafe LTD Technoparkstrasse 7 CH–8406 Winterthur T+41 52 264 94 94 select@volcafe.ch GERMANY

VOLCAFE SELECT Gollücke & Rothfos GmbH Schlachte 3–5 GE–28195 Bremen T+49 421 33 97 33 F+49 421 32 39 13 select @grbcoffee.com

WWW.VOLCAFESELECT.COM INSTAGRAM & FACEBOOK: @VOLCAFESELECT