COFFEE SELECTION 1
Summer 2019 VOLCAFE SELECT
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E E F F CO USIC M O GO T C H EC K O U T O U R S P OT I F Y P L AY L I S T "VO LC A F E S E L EC T" VOLCAFE SELECT
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the specialty coffee network for europ 4
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SUMMER 2019
Dear coffee friends, The coffee globe is turning at an incredible pace—and so is Volcafe Select. As you might know, I will leave the Volcafe Family soon. I immensely enjoyed my time in the Swiss office. I will hand over my responsibilities to Dirk Sickmueller and Tobias Schwind. While Tobias has extensive experience in the European Specialty market, Dirk brings more than 20 years of origin experience. This makes for a team with great synergy. Without any doubt, Dirk is one of the best cuppers in the extensive Volcafe network. This is a very exciting step for Volcafe Select. There is more to come! In May, we opened a small Specialty operation in Bristol. In Andrew Tucker we have found the perfect match for the UK & Irish market. His extensive knowledge of roasting will help us to better understand the needs of Specialty roasters and devise attractive coffees and services. His passion for El Salvador will also add another intriguing coffee origin to our portfolio. In this catalogue we present you not only a selection of our coffees but also interesting journalistic pieces. Stories from Nepal to Peru to Uganda. We hope you enjoy the read.
All the best, Pascal Herzog
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p.40–47
G U AT E M A L A p.48–53
HONDURAS
p.88–93
NICARAGUA
p.20–27
COLOMBIA
sele p.10–17
BRAZIL
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p.82–85
N E PA L
p.78–81
M YA N M A R p.54–58
p.94–101
UGANDA
p.28–35
INDIA
ETHIOPIA
p.62–67
INDONESIA
p.68–75
K E N YA
ect
S N I G I R O E E F F CO N O I T I S D I E H T N I VOLCAFE SELECT
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STORIES IN THIS EDITION THE SPECIALTY MENTOR
PETER MOSER'S DECADES-LONG EXPERIENCE IN COFFEE p.6–9
MEET THE TEAM
RAPID FIRE QUESTIONS WITH DIRK SICKMUELLER AND ANDREW TUCKER p.38–39
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THE COFFEE SCENE IN NEPAL
I M P R E S S I O N S F R O M T H E YO U N G E S T S P E C I A LT Y C O F F E E G R O W E R p.86–87
JERUSALEN DE MINARO
PRIMARY SCHOOL PROJECT IN COLL ABORATION WITH COSTA FOUNDATION p.60–61
THE COFFEE GAME LEARNING BY PL AYING p.104–105
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I N S I D E
V O L C A F E
THE SPECIALTY R O T N E M P E T E R M O S E R 'S D E C A D E S -L O N G EXPERIENCE IN COFFEE
Peter Moser joined Volcafe in 1995. He has left us this year for a very well-deserved retirement. Peter was not only an important supporter of our young Specialty desk in Europe, but he traded high-quality coffees from East-Africa and Colombia since 1978. In all, Peter has amassed 41 years of green coffee experience! But foremost, Peter has been an amazing mentor to many young traders within the Volcafe Family. We celebrate Peter’s time and his incredible contribution to Volcafe’s Specialty business. PASCAL: WHEN DID YOU HEAR THE WORDS “SPECIALTY COFFEE” FOR THE FIRST TIME?
Peter: In 1986 in Costa Rica, Roland Veit from Paragon mentioned the idea to me the first time. He said that we need to do something special, because the whole world was living on only a few qualities produced by the quota system. For example, there was only one quality from Colombia and the Costa Rica Hard Bean—there was no incentive to produce better coffees as the price for all qualities was the same. Roland wanted to start differentiating qualities to better leverage the local potential in Costa Rica. This is how Roland started his import business in the US and became one of the pioneers in Specialty coffee. We need to remember, the qualities in Costa Rica were horrible at that time. 90% of the coffee was picked green. The focus was on volume only. The highlight was a pulper that could crack the green cherries… 6
DID THE CONCEPT OF “DIFFERENTIATED QUALITY” WORK IN 1986?
Yes, the idea was well received by the market. When the quota system collapsed in 1989 and the coffee market in New York collapsed within one minute from 120 cts/lb to 80 cts/lb, the market was open and ready for Specialty coffees. In the following years, this part of the business grew continuously. IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY, “SPECIALTY” AT THAT TIME MAINLY REFERRED TO BETTER QUALITY. DID THE TERM CHANGE OVER THE YEARS?
The term changed a lot. Especially, the requirements for Specialty grade coffee increased tremendously. At first the average quality in the US market was horrible. Brown liquid. The roasters left so much room for better quality coffee. It was very easy to offer a differentiated product—for example, a Strictly Hard Bean instead of a Hard Bean or an Excelso from Nariño instead of a “country blend”. After the quota system collapsed, there was suddenly also an incentive for the producers to develop new—meaning more fancy—qualities and importing companies were flooded with cheap coffees which made value extraction very difficult. Many traders left their companies and started their own specialized import companies. This pull and push effect fundamentally changed the coffee landscape.
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Finally, roasters started to understand that they could create a new market for “single origin” coffees. Kenya, Colombia and Brazil were the pioneers. WHAT ABOUT TOPICS LIKE “TRANSPARENCY” AND “TRACEABILITY”—WERE THEY ALREADY PART OF THE DISCUSSION?
Slowly. At the same time, it was almost a given. We had many small exporters which were active in a particular region or were buying from a limited number of farms. Certificates, on the other hand, were not in demand at all.
V O L C A F E
I GET THE IMPRESSION THAT THE CONCEPT OF “SPECIALTY”, ALTHOUGH MORE NUANCED TODAY, WAS ALREADY IN PLACE EARLY 1990S. THEN AGAIN, IT TOOK THE INDUSTRY ALMOST TEN YEARS TO PUT THIS STRONG IDEA INTO PLACE.
To a certain extent, the movement existed in Europe as well, just in a different form. Roasters developed their “single origin” coffees at the same time as small, new coffee roasters in the US. At times, their coffees were beautiful coffees, but no-one spoke of “Specialty” coffee in Europe.
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I N S I D E
V O L C A F E
“Develop a very solid understanding of coffee origins, markets and the consumer side of the business. It is important to differentiate short term fads from long term trends especially as the trend cycles will become shorter and shorter.�
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The initial push (by low prices in 1992) was slowed down by the massive frost in Brazil in 1994. Interesting enough, the term “sustainability” only arose in the late 90’s—again, strongly correlating with low coffee prices. WHEN YOU JOINED VOLCAFE IN 1995, HOW DID VOLCAFE REACT TO THESE NEW TRENDS?
First of all, our export companies in Central America started to react to the new demand from the US. Later, Japan wanted to have similar offers. Finally, in 2001, Volcafe established Volcafe Specialty in California, USA. The import companies in Australia and Japan developed in parallel. Europe only joined the club in 2015. We had a couple of trials but never really pushed it through, unfortunately. WHAT ROLE SHOULD VOLCAFE PLAY IN THE SPECIALTY INDUSTRY—HAVING 15 EXPORT AND 11 IMPORT COMPANIES?
We should play a more active role! As Volcafe, we have a genuine interest in pushing for more diversity. Volcafe Way has very close relationships with farmers, washing stations and cooperatives—thus we are in a perfect position to support and develop Specialty coffee around the globe.
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WHERE DO YOU SEE SPECIALTY COFFEE IN 10 YEARS?
It will be even more important than it is today. Consumers will challenge us even more, as they are better informed, and technology will play key role. At the same time, we need to make sure that we don’t marginalize farmers by demanding more and more technology, funky fermentation and complex pricing models. WHAT IS YOUR KEY MESSAGE TO YOUNG COFFEE PROFESSIONALS OUT THERE?
Develop a very solid understanding of coffee origins, markets and the consumer side of the business. It is important to differentiate short term fads from long term trends especially as the trend cycles will become shorter and shorter. CAN YOU TELL ME THE STORY OF YOUR FAVORITE COFFEE?
That is an easy one! When I started working in coffee, I had to cup 200 cups of Robusta every day. I felt ill. That was in the South of France… so the only medicine was a Cassis in the evening. When I realized that you find this flavor in some of the East African coffees—Ethiopia, Kenya—I had found my ideal coffees!
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B R A Z I L
BRAZIL
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here is Latin America, and then there is Brazil. Brazil does coffee differently from the rest of the world and because of the massive scale of coffee production within the country itself, the many regions, farmers, and exporters combine to produce a kaleidoscope of different qualities. Our Volcafe Way program was first implemented less than 2 years ago in Brazil. Since then, more than 500 farms have joined the program. We are very proud to see how the farmers value Volcafe Way and its benefits. Most of our Brazils are sourced from Mogiana and Cerrado. Mogiana borders Sul de Minas to the east. It is a region where exceptionally sweet lots can be found. Cerrado coffees are typically fine and clean, with a good body. It is the newest area in Minas Gerais where the coffee culture is ‘only’ four decades old but has quickly been recoginsed as a reliable, high quality producing region of various fine and commecial coffees.
OUR RANGE: ––Cemorrado Sweet, Hazel & Lime Edition ––Fazenda Diamante, Screen 14up, Volcafe Way ––Fazenda Fazendinha, Screen14up, Organic ––Fazenda Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Bourbon ––Fazenda Santa Adelia, Catuai ––Santos NY2/3, screen 15+, Fairtrade ––Cerrado NY2/3, screen 17/18, fine cup ––Mogiana NY2/3, screen 17/18, fine cup
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POPULATION:
209.3 mio
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 9,821
CAPITAL:
Brasilia
COFFEE AREA:
2,302,000 ha
CROP PERIOD:
May–Sep
B R A Z I L
FAZEND I NH A
C E R E A L S, L I G H T C H O C O L AT E, ROUND AND SOFT
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ear the town of Perdizes, which lies in the heart of the Cerrado Mineiro region in the state of Minas Gerais in southeastern Brazil, Ricardo de Aguiar Rezende and his wife Gisele run their Fazendinha farm. They are the third generation of coffee producers on the farm. With a strong agronomist background, they have specialised in the production of high-quality coffee. The coffee production process of Fazendinha has been designed in a sustainable and environmental-friendly way: no pesticides, energy rationalisation, and selective waste collection are just a few examples of their holistic initiatives. They also use modern techniques, such as programmed irrigation and harvest scheduling, and have started to replant native shade trees. Certified by various organic organisations, the Fazendinha farm offers a round coffee with a light chocolate cup profile and cereal taste.
REGION:
Perdizes, Cerrado Mineiro ALTITUDE:
910 m.a.s.l.
PRODUCER:
Family de Aguiar Rezende FARM SIZE:
300 ha
VARIETY:
Catuai, Acaia CROP PERIOD:
May–Aug.
PROCESSING:
Natural sun-dried CERTIFICATION:
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B R A Z I L
O‘COF F EE
P R O F E S S I O N A L FA R M I N G F O R S U S TA I N A B L E P R O D U C T I O N
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hen thinking about Specialty coffees, we usually imagine small farms, rich in history and uniqueness. Take all those ingredients, but replace the small farm with a professionally-managed and modern estate with visionary and savvy owners. That is O’Coffee. After emigrating from Italy to Brazil at the end of the 19th century, the Quercia family started a small coffee farm. They have always been perspicacious and leveraged the latest technologies to develop their offerings. One of their key moments is from the early 1900s, when they bought a second farm much closer to the newly built train station in order to better distribute their coffee. In the early 2000s they decided to focus strictly on specialty coffee.
PROFESSIONAL FARMING FOR SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION The Quercia family manages its estate as a business without compromising on sustainability. The estate includes six farms covering some 5,000 hectares. With cutting-edge farming technologies and sustainable agronomic practices like the use of organic fertilisers, they have divided their entire estate into lots and manage them individually. Through thorough analysis and extensive knowledge of their trees and terrain, each year they evaluate the potential of the different lots and decide how they will be processed: lots with the highest potential are kept separately to preserve their outstanding quality. What differentiates the lots? Mother Nature! All lots are not created equal and just as we have good and bad days, coffee trees have good and not so good years. When a lot is not performing as well as others, O’Coffee uses it for one of their specialty blends while the top-notch lots become microlots.
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REGION:
Pedregulho, Alta Mogiana PRODUCER:
Alaide Cristina Barbosa Ulson Quercia ESTATE SIZE:
5,000 ha FARMS:
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B R A Z I L
ONIX DRY MICROLOT
NOSSA SENHORA APARECIDA MICROLOT
Medium body, dried fruits, winey, juicy, light sweetness
Velvety body, orange, complex, vibrant fruit acidity
FARM:
Nossa Senhora Aparecida ALTITUDE:
1,010 m.a.s.l. PLOT:
GB02
PLOT SIZE:
23,6 ha
VARIETY:
Yellow Bourbon PROCESSING:
Natural
FARM:
Nossa Senhora Aparecida ALTITUDE:
1,010 m.a.s.l. PLOT:
GB01
PLOT SIZE:
52,2 ha
VARIETY:
Yellow Bourbon PROCESSING:
Natural
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d e t c e l se
B R A Z I L
CEMOR R A D O S W E E T, H A Z E L & L I M E
CEMORRADO—A TRIO OF FLAVOUR— HAZEL, SWEET AND LIME
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he Cemorrado Trio is a selected collection in our range of fine Brazilian lots, exclusively created for Volcafe Select. We have chosen three distinctive qualities each boasting a different and seductive profile. Versatile and solid, the trio will provide the perfect backdrop to suit any blend. The characters are defined as Lime with its fine acidity, Hazel that is full-bodied and Sweet, offering honey and chocolate flavours. The Cerrado and Mogiana regions are both recognized for their production of fine Brazilian cups. The three qualities are sourced from both these regions and so combined into the name Cemorrado. Each of the qualities comes from carefully selected shippers guaranteeing consistent quality and longterm availability. We understand that roasters need a reliable source of well-defined, clean and consistent Brazils for quality blends and single origins. The Cemorado Trio will not disappoint!
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B R A Z I L
SWEET
A full-bodied cup with lingering sweetness and honey notes. With its sweetness and chocolaty undertones, the Sweet edition of our Cemorrado range is perfectly suited to blends intended for milk creations such as a creamy flat white or a cappucino. HAZEL
Hazelnut notes with dark chocolate and caramel; full-bodied, fine roast. Either as single origin or as a base for a distinguished, rich blend. Fine hazelnut notes form a harmonious match for a classic espresso blend. LIME
Fine acidity, refined citric notes, elegant and soft. Medium body. The Lime edition is perfectly suited for a filter or V60 pour-over. Its delicate lime notes elevate the superior blend.
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h t i w itude l o s
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CO LO M BI A
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C O L O M B I A
CO LOM B I A
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olombia unfurls majestically across the northwestern corner of South America, with seaports in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and the Andes crossing from south to north. The country has a wide variety of environmental conditions and climates, from deserts to glaciers, with the bio-diversity to match. Coffee is synonymous with Colombia. The history of the nation and the commodity have been intertwined even before the first major production boom in the 1870s. Around 550,000 Colombian families live off coffee. While prices are at a record low, the government and the federation of coffee growers are looking for ways to help the farmers, including a possible unlinking from the New York benchmark price in an effort to sell coffee above production costs. Production in Colombia is predominantly in the hands of small holders who process their own crops. Approximately 60% of the nation‘s production comes from farms under 5 hectares in size. The major production regions are Huila, where the soil is rich in volcanic ashes and offers a high level of organic material, Antioquia and Tolima.
OUR RANGE: ––Excelso, Finca El Balcón, natural ––Excelso Antioquia ––Excelso Huila ––Supremo Antioquia Screen 18+ ––Supremo Huila Screen 18+
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POPULATION:
49.1 mio
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 6,302
CAPITAL:
Bogota
COFFEE AREA:
770,000 ha
CROP PERIOD:
All year
C O L O M B I A
F IN C A ES M ER A L DA R E D A N D Y E L LO W B O U R B O N
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he nutrient-rich volcanic soils of the Pitalito municipality of Huila, located deep in the central-eastern mountain ranges of Colombia, form ideal conditions to cultivate coffee. At Finca Esmeralda, the cherries of 2,500 Yellow Bourbon and 2,000 Red Bourbon coffee trees are handpicked by Mr. Libardo Pihedrahita Santa and his family. When the picking and sorting is done, the coffee is fermented without water for 24 hours under controlled conditions. Then the beans are sun dried until they reach the right humidity, after which they are packed and shipped. Mr. Libardo Pihedrahita is justifiably proud of his soft bodied cup that has light citric acidity and a round finish.
REGION:
Pitalito, Huila ALTITUDE:
1,600 m.a.s.l. FARM:
Finca Esmeralda PRODUCER:
Libardo Pihedrahita Santa FARM SIZE:
5 ha
VARIETY:
Red and Yellow Bourbon CROP PERIOD:
Sept.–Nov.
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed and natural
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C O L O M B I A
F IN C A EL B A LCÓN
S U S TA I N A B L E C O F F E E G R O W N B Y W O M E N
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wo daughters continuing their father’s legacy and taking it to the next level: this is the story of Finca El Balcón. Humberto Restrepro and his wife Martha founded the coffee farm in 1991. When their father passed away, Yenny and Martha, his daughters, decided to support their mother and actively help with the farm. Continuing the family business was a way the two sisters chose to honour their father. Finca el Balcón is currently managed by Yenny, an entrepreneurial and innovation-savvy woman. A few years ago, they started to test new processing methods and to develop a distinctive cup profile for the growing Specialty market. Producing higher quality coffee is the basis of their sustainability strategy. But coffee is more than a family business for Yenny. She understands the importance of the farm for the local community and the environment. Protecting and nurturing the environment, ensuring full traceability of the coffee and enabling the workers to improve their quality of life are the standards that underpin Finca El Balcón’s success. Their hard work in producing coffee in an environmental and socially sustainable ways was rewarded when Finca El Balcón received certification from the Rainforest Alliance, the UTZ program and the 4C association.
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REGION:
Fredonia, Antioquia ALTITUDE:
1,400–1,900 m.a.s.l. FARM:
Finca El Balcón PRODUCER:
Yenny Restrepro FARM SIZE:
300 ha, 220 ha of coffee VARIETY:
Colombia
CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Dec. & April–May
PROCESSING:
Natural
C O L O M B I A
CUPPING SCORE
85
CUP PROFILE 8
1
8
2 Flavour
8.5 7
1Â 10
Fragrance / Aroma
3 After-taste 4 Acidity
7.5
5 Body
10
6 Uniformity
10
7 Clean cup
10
8 Sweetness
8
9 Balance
8
10 Overall grade
2
9
3
8
4
7
5 6
Yenny and her team produce a well balanced round-bodied coffee with notes of red fruits, black tea and prunes. The combination of sugary sweetness and the light acetic acidity is very pleasant.
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C O L O M B I A
VILL A COF F E FA R M H O N E Y, J U I C Y, T R O P I C A L F R U I T S
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n his land located in the South of Tolima, Willington Gutierrez has run the Villa Coffee Farm for over 20 years now. With great love and careful practice, Willington takes care of approximately 35,000 Arabica trees year in and year out. His excellence was recognized with a star in the “Siembra y Cosecha” awards, which recognize great performance in sowing and harvesting, coffee cultivation and quality management. Our lot is naturally processed. By drying the whole cherries, the sweet and juicy flavors from the mucilage migrate into the parchment and create a splendid fruity cup with honey-like sweetness.
REGION:
La Cristalina Village, Planadas, Tolima ALTITUDE:
1,700 m.a.s.l. PRODUCER:
Willington Gutierrez FARM SIZE:
35,000 trees VARIETY:
Caturra, Tabi CROP PERIOD:
April–June
PROCESSING:
Natural
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PL ANADA S TOL I M A SUGARCANE DECAF
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semprogrope is an association of 86 small coffee producers located in the municipality of Planadas in the department of Tolima, Colombia. They decided to focus purely on organic specialty coffee, believing that the production of specialty coffee will improve their quality of life. Organic farming is not only a way for them to produce higher quality coffee, but also the best gift that they can leave to the future generations.
REGION:
Planadas, Tolima ALTITUDE:
Our Planadas Tolima is a sugarcane decaffeinated coffee. After being fully washed and dried, the caffeine is reduced through a natural process.
1,650 m.a.s.l.
The coffee beans first undergo steaming at low pressures to remove the silver skins. They are then moistened with hot water to allow the beans to swell and soften. This step prepares the coffee for the hydrolysis of caffeine, which is attached to the salts of the chlorogenic acid within the coffee. The moistened coffee is washed several times with ethyl-acetate solvent (EA). In the case of sugar-cane decaf, the ethyl acetate is naturally obtained from the fermentation of sugar cane grown in Colombia and not from chemical synthesis. Once the caffeine is reduced to the desired level, the beans are cleaned to remove the remaining EA and dried to between 10–12%.
5 ha
Asemprogrope has also implemented an integrated vertical supply chain, as the growing, processing, and even the full decaffeination process all happens at the source in Colombia.
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PRODUCER:
Asemprogrope, 86 farmers FARM SIZE: VARIETY:
Caturra
CROP PERIOD:
Sept.–Dec.
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, decaffeination
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ET H I O PI A
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E T H I O P I A
ET H I OP I A
T
he smell of roasting coffee is an ever-present part of life and travel in Ethiopia. Tradition dictates that guests are welcomed with a coffee ceremony, in which green coffee is freshly roasted, brewed in a clay pot, and served in three rounds. Wild arabica trees can still be found in Ethiopia’s forests, though their contribution to overall production is quite small (less than 5%). Production of “semi-forest” coffee, a term for coffee that has been planted under a dense canopy of indigenous shade trees is much more common. It has enabled Ethiopia to keep large tracts of its old forests and biodiversity intact. There is also “garden” production, which appears more similar to smallholder farming systems found elsewhere in the world and is most prevalent in the southern and eastern parts of the country.
OUR RANGE: ––Sidamo Grade 2, washed ––Sidamo Grade 2 ABEBA, washed ––Yirga Cheffe Grade 1, directly sourced from the farmer, Organic ––Yirga Cheffe Grade 1 ARICHA, washed ––Yirga Cheffe Grade 2, washed
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POPULATION:
105 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 767,6
CAPITAL:
Addis Ababa COFFEE AREA:
694,000 ha
CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Feb.
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E T H I O P I A
T S IGUE J I G S O O DA Y I R G A C H E F F E G R A D E 1 N AT U R A L
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rs Tsigue Jigso Oda is a coffee farmer in Baya, in the Kochere District of southern Ethiopia. Kochere is a lush and stunning region which borders on Yirgacheffe, the illustrious coffee region, to the north. Many beautiful coffees hail from this part of Ethiopia, but in the past few years, fierce conflicts between the local communities have made the area very unstable. Millions of people have been displaced and their assets expropriated. This turmoil has not prevented Mrs Oda, considered a hero for her community, from producing coffee. She is one of the few women who owns a coffee farm in the area. She started small, on a piece of land that her husband gave her. Her hard work started to pay off and she has since acquired several farms in her locality. During the high season Mrs Oda employs around 100 labourers on her farm and she collaborates with 30 other women that support each other in this demanding work. She lost part of her property due to ongoing conflict in the area but she has kept going regardless, and she has received awards for her coffees and recognition for her work in the community. Her example of great resilence has led to her becoming a representative of her community at a regional and national level.
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REGION:
Baya, Kochere (Gedeo) ALTITUDE:
1,900–2,100 m.a.s.l. PRODUCER:
Tsigue Jigso Oda FARM SIZE:
9 ha
VARIETY:
Bourbon, Arabigo CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–March
PROCESSING:
Natural
E T H I O P I A
CUPPING SCORE
86.25
CUP PROFILE
1Â 10
8
1
8
2 Flavour
Fragrance / Aroma
8.5
3 After-taste
7.5
4 Acidity
7.75
5 Body
10
6 Uniformity
10
7 Clean cup
10
8 Sweetness
8
9 Balance
8.5
2
10 Overall grade
9
3
8
4
7
5 6
Tsigue Jigso Oda produces a tea-like bodied coffee with notes of bergamot, jasmin, prune and molasse sweetness. Very clear and complex, it has a long-lasting aftertaste.
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H ARAR
B U R K A G A L E T I C O O P, G R A D E 2, O R G A N I C
M
ost coffee in Ethiopia comes from the southern and south-western Ethiopian highlands, with the notable exception of Harar in Ethiopia’s Eastern Oromo region. Dating from the 12th century, the ancient walled city of Harar is famed for its unique architecture, boasting many shrines and mosques, and of course, its excellent naturally processed coffee which is grown in the surrounding areas and known for its distinctive winey fruitiness. Even the renowned French poet Arthur Rimbaud started trading coffee when he lived in Harar for 10 years in the 1880’s. Now, 140 years later, Harar coffee is still in high demand. Getahun Alem, General Manager of the Burka Galeti Farmers Cooperative Union, is proud of the growth that the union has seen in recent years. The union now processes coffee from over 40,000 households, four times as much as when it was established in 2004. Scattered smallholder farmers covering a total area of some 360 hectares bring the coffee to the union for primary processing (hulling and removal of husks) and then the coffee is cleaned in the nearby town of Dire Dawa.
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REGION:
Harar
ALTITUDE:
1,800–2,000 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Heirloom
CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–Feb.
PROCESSING:
Natural
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E T H I O P I A
S IDAM O AB E B A F LO W E R Y, H O N E Y, J U I C Y
S
idamo Abeba is an exclusive coffee type we developed in collaboration with our team in Ethiopia. Abeba means “flower” in Amharic and this is what you can expect—a flowery cup. Moreover, the cup is well balanced with notes of sweetness, acidity and a fine body to complement this exciting flavor. This coffee is purchased by a Cherry Buying Unit which also delivers the lot to a nearby washing station. After pulping, fermentation, washing and drying, the coffee is delivered to the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange (ECX) warehouse in Hawassa. The liquoring unit of the exchange classified the coffee as a Grade 1 and 2. As such, the lot is traded on the exchange and delivered to the export company. Before being trucked to the port of Djibouti, the coffee is milled, hand sorted and packed in GrainPro bags for onward transit.
ቡና ዳቦዋችን Coffee is our bread Ethiopian saying
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REGION:
Sidamo
ALTITUDE:
1,400–1,800 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Heirloom
CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–Feb.
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed
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h t i w operatives co
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I N S I D E
V O L C A F E
MEET THE TEAM RAPID FIRE QUESTIONS WITH DIRK SICKMUELLER AND ANDREW TUCKER
Dirk Sickmueller will move from Kenya to Switzerland at the end of 2019 to take over the leadership of Volcafe Select in Winterthur. Andrew Tucker has opened our office in Bristol. We asked them a few questions.
DIRK SICKMUELLER
WHO INSPIRES YOU MOST IN COFFEE?
WHY COFFEE?
It runs in my veins—I’m a third-generation coffee trader. TELL US A STORY ABOUT YOUR FAVORITE COFFEE.
This would be my wife’s first cup in the morning—the smile on her face is priceless.
Originally my grandfather—a self-made Bremen -based importer. Then my father. More recently I have found inspiration in the books written by Howard Schultz. ARE YOU MORE OF A HUNTER OR A GATHERER?
An hybrid of both—a scavenger! I have an affinity to the Jackal of the African savannah. WHAT SONG ARE YOU LISTENING TO DURING A COFFEE BREAK?
Any song by Jack Johnson
A COFFEE BEAN WALKS THROUGH THE DOOR WEARING A SOMBRERO. WHAT DOES IT SAY AND WHY IS IT HERE?
“Jambo! Hakuna Matata!” This is clearly a Kenyan coffee bean at a fancy dress-party! HOW DO YOU RELAX AFTER A HARD DAY IN THE QUALITY LAB?
With an energetic swim and a tasty beverage to rinse the palate!
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I N S I D E
ANDREW TUCKER
ARE YOU MORE OF A HUNTER OR A GATHERER?
WHY COFFEE?
There is so much opportunity to travel, to taste, to meet new people and to experience amazing cultures. Nothing beats the joy of discovering an exquisite new cup of coffee that redefines my expectations of what great coffee can be. I love the learning and being a part of the link between seed and cup. TELL US A STORY ABOUT YOUR FAVORITE COFFEE
Unusually, it was a natural maragogype from Nicaragua; not an origin that typically blows me away. It was 7 weeks past roast and in an unsealed bag. The cup was the perfect synergy of black olives and black jelly babies in a cup for something that went against all the ‘rules’. WHO INSPIRES YOU MOST IN COFFEE?
V O L C A F E
A good friend, Phil Gevaux, who co-owns Yallah Coffee Roasters in Cornwall, UK. He’s a vastly experienced roaster and green buyer who has taught me a lot. He just quietly goes about his business with integrity, humility and professionalism.
I’d say I’m a hunter… I love researching, exploring and discovering new things. My wife may well say to my detriment, sometimes! WHAT SONG ARE YOU LISTENING TO DURING A COFFEE BREAK?
I have been a long-time fan of Jon & Roy out of Victoria, British Columbia, and still default back to some of their early stuff on an almost daily basis. A COFFEE BEAN WALKS THROUGH THE DOOR WEARING A SOMBRERO. WHAT DOES IT SAY AND WHY IS IT HERE?
“Anyone for Cerveja? I’m parched!” If I spent that long in the sun or in a roasting drum, I’d be looking for some cold refreshment too. HOW DO YOU RELAX AFTER A HARD DAY IN THE QUALITY LAB?
With two little boys under the age of three at home, I’d say a ‘hard day’ in the sample room is my relaxation! Ideally, it would be up a mountain with my snowboard on a bluebird day.
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GUATEM AL A
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G UAT E M A L A
GUATE MAL A
G
uatemala, the land of the eternal spring, is where trees always bloom and rainbows appear ever so often. It is the heartland of the ancient Mayan civilisation and defined by its legacy. It is also a country with picturesque buildings and a superb natural scenery; but above all the country is home to many outstanding coffees. Guatemala produces mainly washed arabica, though a small volume of washed robusta is produced in the south west of the country. Coffee is grown from 650 to 1,800 meters above sea level. The average coffee producer plants two to three hectares of coffee; 98% of Guatemalan coffee farmers are smallholders. Anacafe (a public, non-profit producer organization) has been working diligently to identify and group the main coffee regions and to define them by cup characteristics, micro climates and coffee culture. The broad range of Guatemalan coffees can be divided into eight well defined high altitude coffee regions: Acatenango, Antigua, Atitlan, Coban, Fraijanes, Huehuetenango, Oriente and San Marcos.
OUR RANGE: ––Golden Flakes of Jumay, SHB ––Green Valleys of the Chorti, SHB ––Pastores, SHB
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POPULATION:
16.9 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 4,471.
CAPITAL:
Guatemala City COFFEE AREA:
277,000 ha
CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–Mar.
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d e t c e l se
G UAT E M A L A
PA S TO RE S
S M O O T H B O D Y, C H O C O L AT E A F T E R TA S T E
T
he world famous “Genuine Antigua Quality” is grown on the slopes of the volcano Agua above 1,600 m.a.s.l. Small producers with a crop of around 50–100 bags represent the vast majority of the farms.
A UNIQUE MILL—ENTIRELY MADE OF WOOD In our mill ‘Pastores’, we receive only the best cherries from a few carefully selected farmers. Tremendous efforts are needed to maintain the quality over so many decades. The Pastores Mill has a rich and long history. It started out as a flour mill in the early 1900’s and only became a coffee processing mill in the 1960’s. The entire coffee flow in the mill is made of wood—an exquisite exemplar of the carpenter’s craft. Preserving these traditional features and methods has meant that the mill maintains its charm and beauty as well as producing a consistent and distinctive quality of coffee.
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REGION:
Antigua, Sacatepéquez ALTITUDE:
1,600 m.a.s.l. PRODUCERS:
Small holders VARIETY:
Bourbon, Arabigo CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–March
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried
G UAT E M A L A
CUPPING SCORE
84.5
CUP PROFILE 7.75 8
1
2
10
Fragrance/Aroma
2 Flavour
7.75
3 After-taste
7.75
4 Acidity
7.5
5 Body
10
6 Uniformity
10
7 Clean cup
10
8 Sweetness
8
9 Balance
7.75
1
10 Overall grade
9
3
8
4
7
5 6
A delicate, medium-bodied coffee with Hibiscus and floral notes as well as a light citric acidity.
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d e t c e l se
G UAT E M A L A
NE W O RI E N TE O N E R E G I O N, T W O C U P S
W
ith our specially selected lots from Guatemala, Chorti, Golden Flakes of Jumay and Green Valleys of the Chorti, we collected the best lots from New Oriente Region in cooperation with our origin company Peter Schoenfeld. Eduardo, who took care of the sourcing and pre-selection of the available lots, sent us a range of different coffees from New Oriente whereof these two lots were finally selected by us. New Oriente is a very diverse region with the beautiful Cascades of Tatasirere, the volcanoes of Jumay, Alzatate and Monterrico and the ancient woodlands of the Chorti. Hence, there are several micro climates which influence the flavours you can find in each lot. The volcanic soil of the three volcanoes "Jumay", "Alzatate" and "Monterrico", bring a full and strong body to our Golden Flakes of Jumay . Our Green Valleys of the Chorti, which grows in forest plantations with humid air, has a sweet, floral cup with a medium body.
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G UAT E M A L A
GOLDEN FLAKES OF JUMAY
GREEN VALLEYS OF THE CHORTI
Strong body, smokey/ spicy, juicy, chocolate
Light florality, sweet, medium body
REGION:
Jalapa, Oriente ALTITUDE:
1,500–1,700 m.a.s.l. PRODUCER:
Small holders VARIETY:
Bourbon & Catuai CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–March
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried
REGION:
Chiquimulas, Oriente ALTITUDE:
1,500–1,700 m.a.s.l. PRODUCER:
Small holders VARIETY
Bourbon & Catuai CROP PERIOD
Dec.–March
PROCESSING
Fully-washed, sun-dried
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HO N D URAS
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H O N D U R A S
HO ND UR A S
H
onduras is a stunning country—its biodiversity and natural beauty are breathtaking. Besides the average commercial coffee, the country is producing extrordinary micro lots with great structure, tropical fruit flavors and a syrupy body. With 7.2 million bags of green coffee expected for 2018/2019, Honduras is Central America´s largest coffee producer. Coffee continues to play an important role in the economy, being the country’s leading agricultural export. In the specialty coffee industry, Honduras is a rising star. Farmers and exporters have invested heavily into infrastructure and especially their knowledge and expertise. If you are willing to sift through the masses of Honduras’ coffee production, you will be rewarded with finding some exceptional lots.
OUR RANGE: ––Buenos Aires Microlot ––San Antonio Microlot ––SHG Fairtrade + Organic ––SHG San Marcos
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POPULATION:
9.26 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 2,480
CAPITAL:
Tegucigalpa COFFEE AREA:
409,000 ha
CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–April
H O N D U R A S
LEPATER I QUE
COFFEE FROM THE LENCA PEOPLE
L
ocated in the Francisco Morazán Region of Honduras, very close to the capital and surrounded by mountains, Lepaterique is a very small city comprising just seven villages. Lepaterique is a Lenca community. The Lenca are an indigenous people whose name means “Mountain of the Tiger”. Lenca people live mainly off the produce of their farms. Over the years, they have managed to retain many of their traditions. For Lenca, community is a key concept. Land is held in communal ‘property’ and they expect all members of the community to participate in communal efforts. The Lenca people grow coffee and other crops, but coffee is the main source of income. Our sister company, Molinos de Honduras, saw the potential of the area in terms of Specialty coffees and implemented the Volcafe Way program. Through focused field and business training, Volcafe Way supports the farmers in improving their coffee quality, increasing productivity and learning how to analyze their costs. This strategy is paying off. As quality and yields improve, so does the farmers’ quality of life.
VOLCAFE SELECT
REGION:
Lepaterique, Francisco Morazán ALTITUDE:
1,200–1,450 m.a.s.l. PRODUCERS:
Small holders VARIETY:
IHCAFE 90, Lempira CROP PERIOD:
Jan.–May
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried QUALITY:
Fancy SHG EP
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H O N D U R A S
EL PA R A Í S O M ATA D E P L ÁTA N O
T
he Mata de Plátano community is located in southeastern Honduras, primarily in the region of Moroceli in the department of El Paraíso. El Paraíso is one of the oldest coffee farming departments in Honduras. Coffee grows at a high altitude of between 1,050 and 1,750 m.a.s.l., where the soil is rich in organic matter from the forests covering the mountains, and the microclimates created by the varied topography are ideal for coffee cultivation. Through Molinos de Honduras farmers can benefit from the Volcafe Way program. Seny Romel is a coffee farmer in Mata de Plátano, who receives support and training from our Volcafe Way field technicians. As quality and yields increased, so did Seny’s income. Seny’s farm is today a ‘Volcafe Way model farm’, where farmers from the area can discuss their challenges and get tips on how to increase their profitability. It helps other coffee farmers as well understand how their coffee farms can better perform and as a result, how their quality of life can be improved.
VOLCAFE SELECT
REGION:
Mata de Plátano, Paraíso ALTITUDE:
1,100–1,750 m.a.s.l. PRODUCERS:
Small holders VARIETY:
Catuai, IHCAFE 90, Lempira, Parainema CROP PERIOD:
Feb.–June
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried QUALITY:
Fancy SHG EP
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I ND I A
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I N D I A
I ND I A
M
ost Indian coffees originate along the Western Ghats mountain range in the south-west of India. This includes the two states of Karnataka and Kerala. To the east, Tamil Nadu produces an excellent arabica which is partly consumed in the state itself—the only coffee-drinking Indian state. Interestingly, coffee is farmed more and more in the Eastern Ghats which mainly include the state of Andrah Pradesh. And even the North-Eastern States—mainly Assam—are producing a little coffee. India mainly produces robusta which is appreciated for its soft, sometimes sweet, spicy and herbal cup, depending on the preparation of the coffee. The arabica on the other hand is wellbalanced and mild. Its light body, relatively low acidity and subtle and unique spicy notes produce a very desirable, versatile cup.
OUR RANGE: ARABICA:
––Cauvery Peak Estate, Plantation AA; A; B ––Savamalai Estate, Plantation AA ––Monsooned Malabar AA, Aspinwall; Nedcoffee; Tata ––Mysore Nuggets, Extra Bold ROBUSTA:
––Monsooned Robusta AA Aspinwall ––Parchment AB, Manamboli Estate
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POPULATION:
1.339 billion
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 1,939
CAPITAL:
New Delhi COFFEE AREA:
410,000 ha
CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–Mar.
I N D I A
MY LEMO NEY ES TATE H O M E O F T H E K E N T VA R I E T Y
D
eep in the Mullayangiri Mountains lies secretive place of lush green forests frequented by many deer, just one aspect of this wildlife-rich preserve. Welcome to the Mylemoney Estate! Founded in the early 19th century, Mylemoney Estate was the first commercial coffee plantation in India and also one of the finest. Nestled in the forest, the estate treasures the conservation of water and also its surrounding biodiversity. From seedlings to cherry processing, every step of coffee cultivation is handled with the utmost emphasis on sustainability. Mylemoney Estate is home to the legendary and extremely rare ‘Kent’ coffee variety. Due to its high productivity and partial resistance to leaf rust, the Kent variety has long been used in crossings like S795. Our washed Mylemoney Estate microlot offers a medium-bodied cup with delightful chocolate molasses flavours.
REGION:
Chikmagalur, Karnataka ALTITUDE:
1,040–1,220 m.a.s.l. PRODUCER:
Tata Coffee
FARM SIZE:
420 ha
VARIETY:
Selection 795, Selection 4345, HDTxCatuai CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–March
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried
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JU MBOOR ES TATE R E C I P I E N T O F S E V E R A L AWA R D S
F
ounded in the 19th century, Jumboor Estate exudes a rare natural beauty. Lying on the eastern face of the northern highlands of Coorg amidst luxuriant forests, the estate is home to many seasonal water streams. To preserve the natural flow of the water, some areas have been defined as ‘no cultivation’ zones. Jumboor Estate is one of the most distinguished coffee plantations in India. Jumboor Estate uses pure mountain spring water throughout the coffee production process, which preserve the aromas of the beans. The beans are carefully sun-dried on concrete drying yards, to achieve a slow and controlled drying process which yields Jumboor’s signature, sublime aromas. Our Natural coffee from Jumboor Estate offers a medium body featuring winey and dried-fruits notes, with a light sweetness.
REGION:
Coorg, Karnataka
ALTITUDE:
1,040–1,220 m.a.s.l. PRODUCER:
Tata Coffee
FARM SIZE:
390 ha
VARIETY:
HDTxCatuai, Selection 795 CROP PERIOD:
Nov.–March
PROCESSING:
Natural, sun-dried
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C O F F E E
&
E D U C AT I O N
JERUSALEN DE MINARO
P R I M A R Y S C H O O L P R OJ E C T I N C O L L A B O R AT I O N W I T H C O S TA F O U N D AT I O N
P
icture this: A man from a coastal town moves to a jungle and it is love at first sight. He falls in love with a woman and decides to stay. You must be thinking, this must be an incredible forest or an incredible love. It’s a little bit of both. Let us tell you a short story about Caleb, who many years ago moved to the Peruvian jungle. He fell in love with a Nomatchigenga woman, who became the mother of their five children, the forest, the native people and their traditions. He decided to settle down in a small, old-world village in the province of San Martina de Pangoa. There he became a coffee farmer and as a member of the Coffee Growers Association, he slowly star ted to adopt local ways in his everyday life.
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A perfect story plot would have Caleb living happily ever after, but life is not perfect, and this is not that kind of story. A few years ago, Caleb’s wife passed away. He then had to figure out how to raise five kids on his own, and did not have enough money to give them all a proper education. In this moment of crisis, Caleb had to reinvent himself to survive and raise his children the best way he could. Costa Foundation realised that the community’s children were not getting a proper education and decided to build a school in the region. In partnership with Prodelsur Peru (our sister company), they financed the construction of the Jerusalen de Minaro Primary School. The design
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C O F F E E
&
E D U C AT I O N
led and implemented by Marta from Semillas (a local NGO) included 8 classrooms, a kitchen and canteen, sanitation, a room for teachers, a playground, water supply and electricity. The school opened in July 2018. Soon after, Marta received the Global Award for Sustainable Architecture for 2018 for the design.
His dedication and love for the community led to him being named a community leader by the locals. In their eyes and hearts, he was not a stranger anymore. He was one of them. The stranger had become a mentor thanks to his involvement in and dedication to the empowerment of the village.
Caleb got involved in the construction of this new school for the native community, and got a job as the site supervisor of the construction. In addition to his coffee farm, he secured an extra source of income and an education for his children.
So, it was a love story after all!
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I N DO NESI A
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I N D O N E S I A
INDONES I A
D
ramatic landscapes, more than 17,000 islands and nearly 100 volcanos—Indonesia is a kaleidoscope of cultures, people, animals, plants, artwork and food. It has a rich history in coffee and is one of the world‘s oldest producers. Although arabicas represent a small percentage of Indonesian production they are considered some of the best in the world, priced for their richness, full body, long finish, earthiness and gentle acidity. But the challenge is to find the right sources, process properly and achieve consistent quality.
GILING BASAH Giling Basah is a wet-hulled processing method, a process isolated to parts of Indonesia. In this process the wet coffee parchment is kept fermenting in bags overnight. Then the parchment is only marginally dried before being stripped from the bean. After drying, the coffee bean turns into a slight bluish jade. The method, locally called ‘Giling Basah’ gives excellent body and an outstanding character to the coffee. This creates an incredibly sweet and heavy-bodied cup.
OUR RANGE: ARABICA:
––Blue Batak Single Village Hutajulu ––Blue Batak ––Lake Tawar ––Flores, triple picked ––Bali Kintamani ––Java Jampit Estate A/WP1X ––Mandheling Grade 1 triple picked ROBUSTA:
––Gunung Terong Large & Medium Bean
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POPULATION:
264 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 3,847
CAPITAL:
Jakarta
COFFEE AREA:
956,000 ha
CROP PERIOD:
May–Dec.
d e t c e l se
I N D O N E S I A
BLU E B ATA K
C A R A M E L , C I T R U S, H E R B A L
B
lue Batak is sourced from Lintong, which lies at the southern tip of Lake Toba in North Sumatra, Indonesia. Lake Toba is the largest volcanic crater lake in the world, a ‘supervolcano’, around which coffee has been grown for decades by the indigenous Batak tribe, who settled in this area in the 13th century. In honor of the noble Batak people, we named this fine coffee ‘Blue Batak’. What makes this coffee unique? Contrary to most coffees, these lots have been sourced by us directly from farmers. A truncated supply chain allows us to avoid the middlemen and therefore pay a higher price to the farmer. Secondly, we gain a level of control over the quality. We keep the individual lots separate as long as possible in order to trace the quality along all the different processing steps. Once we know the final client, we ship the individual microlots or blend smaller lots into a macrolot according to the requested cup profile. This is unique in Indonesia. Each sip of Blue Batak boasts a deep, full body, herbal flavours and a sweet, syrupy mouthfeel. Combined with its rich history, this truly is an outstanding coffee.
VOLCAFE SELECT
REGION:
Lintong, North Sumatra ALTITUDE:
1,450–1,600 m.a.s.l. PRODUCERS:
Small holders FARM SIZE:
0.5 to 2 ha VARIETY:
Sigarar Utang/Ateng CROP PERIOD:
Sept.–Jan. and April–June
PROCESSING:
Giling Basah
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I N D O N E S I A
BALI KI NTA M A NI
COFFEE FULL OF ANCIENT WISDOM
I
n Kintamani, in the northern Highlands of Bali, water is treasured. In the 9th century, the Balinese built a complex irrigation and water management system in this region called Subak. It not only provides water to the plants, but also creates a complex ecosystem including terraces and temples. Subaks are under the authority of the water temples’ priests who practice the Tri Hita Karana philosophy.
SUBAK ABIAN AND TRI HITA KARANA Tri Hita Karana literally means “three reasons for prosperity”, a philosophy rooted in Hinduism. The three main principles are: Harmony among People, Harmony with Nature and Environment, and Harmony with God. This philosophy promotes cooperation and compassion, nature conservation and respect for the environment. Many unique rituals pace the daily life of the community. Following this philosophy, farmers manage their resources in Subak Abians. They are small cooperatives working around a central water system. Farmers share knowledge and resources, grow coffee organically and strive to align with the natural cycles of coffee production. Bali Kintamani is a unique coffee full of ancient wisdom, spirituality and harmony.
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REGION:
Kintamani, Bangli, Bali ALTITUDE:
1,200-1,400 m.a.s.l. PRODUCER:
Subak Abian VARIETY:
S795, Kartika CROP PERIOD:
May–Oct.
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed
CUPPING SCORE
83.25
CUP PROFILE 7.5
1
7.25
2 Flavour
7.75
3 After-taste
7.25
4 Acidity
1 10
Fragrance/Aroma
8
5 Body
10
6 Uniformity
10
7 Clean cup
10
8 Sweetness
7.75
9 Balance
7.75
10 Overall grade
2
9
3
8
4
7
5 6
Bali Kintamani is a full-bodied coffee with milk chocolate. We find orange notes, a very subtle citric acid and molasse at the end. When cooling down, the cup reveals some spices as well.
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KE NYA
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K E N YA
KENYA
K
enya occupies a special place in the heart of specialty coffee lovers around the world. Straddling the equator, the production areas benefit from high altitudes and rich volcanic soils, and are blessed with a coffee culture, tradition and system which promotes and rewards quality. The production area lie between 1,400 and 2,000 metres above sea level, mainly in the hilly and fertile centre of the country. Mt. Kenya, which at 5,200 metres is the second highest peak on the continent, dominates the coffee landscape and remains a sacred place for the Kikuyu tribe, one of the biggest tribes in Kenya. Smallholders, who account for at least 60% of total production and the majority of top qualities, are organized into cooperatives, each with one or more wet mills, also known as “factories.” The strong social structure built around these factories provides for vibrant rural coffee communities where generations of farmers uphold traditional values and practices.
OUR RANGE: KIAMBU COUNTY ––AA Gakui ––AA Kianzavi ––AA Muiri Estate, Bio ––AA Kwakinyu ––AB Gakuyuini ––AB Kiangoi ––PB Gacibi ––PB Muiri Estate, Bio
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POPULATION:
49.7 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 1,508
CAPITAL:
Nairobi
COFFEE AREA:
138,000 ha
CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Jan./ May–July
K E N YA
MUIR I ES TATE ORGANIC COFFEE
M
uiri Estate lies near the town of Thika, in the Kiambu region of Kenya. The estate was previously known as Kihoto Farm, but in 1976, the new management decided to change the name to Muiri Coffee Estate after the African Prunus tree that grows on the estate. The estate received its Organic Certification in 2008. This means that the farm maintains the highest quality control during production, processing and storage of the coffee. The cherries are picked and delivered to an on-site wet mill. They are processed, dried on raised African beds and stored on-site. Organic coffee is rare in Kenya. Although many farmers cannot afford a lot of chemicals, most use pesticides and fungicides since the common SL varieties are prone to leaf rust and coffee berry disease. This makes Muiri one of the unique estates in the country. In addition to coffee, many different tree species grow on the estate. The trees were planted between 2000 and 2002 as a measure for the sustainable development and qualitative improvement of coffee cultivation. In total there are 94,000 additional trees that cast shadows on the coffee in the agroforestry system and significantly reduce direct solar radiation. The estate also contains a well for fresh water supply, a dam and small cottages for workers employed throughout the year.
VOLCAFE SELECT
REGION:
Thika, Kiambu County, Central Kenya ALTITUDE:
1,530 m.a.s.l. FARM:
Muiri Estate FARM SIZE:
87 ha
VARIETY:
SL 34, K7, Ruiri CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Dec. June–July
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried CERTIFICATION:
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AB KI A NG OI
M E D I U M B O D Y, P E A C H, J U I C Y
K
irinyaga County sits at the foothills of Mount Kenya, from which the county’s name is derived. Kirinyaga means the ‘crest of whiteness’ in the Kikuyu language, synonymous with the beautiful, snow-capped peaks. This county plays host to Kiangoi, the newest factory (established in 1995) of the Rung’eto Farmers Society, which serves around 1,000 coffee producers. It processes around 160 tons of cherries per year with a stunning view of Mount Kenya. Farmers handpick the cherries and deliver them to the factory on the day of harvest to ensure freshness. After being sorted to eliminate underripe or overripe cherries and foreign objects, the cherries are processed using fresh water from the nearby river, which maintain the flavors of the coffee. They are then sun-dried on raised beds and handpicked to remove defects before being delivered to a dry mill for hulling and grading by size and density. AB Kiangoi is a medium-bodied coffee, very juicy with notes of peach and stone fruits. The combination of medium citric acidity and honey sweetness go particularly well together.
REGION:
Kirinyaga County, Central Kenya ALTITUDE:
1,900 m.a.s.l. SOIL TYPE:
Red loamy soil PRODUCER:
Rung’eto Farmers Society COOP SIZE:
165 ha
VARIETY:
SL 28, SL 34 CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Dec. June–Aug.
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried
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K E N YA
PB G AC I B I
F U L L B O D Y, C H O C O L AT E , B L A C KC U R R A N T
The Gacibi Estate belongs to the Kibenda Estate Limited, whose mother company was founded by the late Charles Kibe Karanja. Mr Karanja was a prominent tea and coffee farmer and a member of the Coffee Board of Kenya. He contributed to the development of the rural areas in Kenya and marketing the country as a valuable tea and coffee producer. Gacibi processes its coffee traditionally: ripened cherries are handpicked, delivered in a timely manner to the wet mill, and dried on African raised beds. PB Gacibi is a full-bodied coffee with chocolate and blackcurrant, light floral notes and a white sugar sweetness in the aftertaste. Its acidity is very well embedded and not aggressive.
REGION:
Kiambu County, Central Kenya ALTITUDE:
1,600–1,700 m.a.s.l. FARM:
Gacibi Estate PRODUCER:
Kibenda Estate Ltd. FARM SIZE:
162 ha, 31 ha of coffee VARIETY:
SL 28, SL 34 CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Dec. June–Aug.
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried
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AA KI A NZ AV I B U T T E R F LY PA R A D I S E
S
ituated about 90 km East of Nairobi in Machakos County, the Kianzavi Farmers’ Cooperative Society serves around 1,000 small coffee producers. Kianzavi means “Butterfly paradise” in Akamba, the local language. Rainfall is very scarce in the area, a little more than 650 mm per year. Coffee trees grow slowly and produce lower yields of cherries. In such conditions, the cherries have a higher sugar concentration and therefore produce a sweet cup.
REGION:
Machakos County, Eastern Province ALTITUDE:
1,400 m.a.s.l. SOIL TYPE:
Red loamy soil PRODUCER:
Kianzavi Farmers Society COOP SIZE:
323 ha 1,000 smallholders VARIETY:
SL 28, SL 34, Ruiru 11 CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Dec. June–Aug.
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed, sun-dried
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CUPPING SCORE
86.5
CUP PROFILE
1 2
10
8.25
1
Fragrance / Aroma
8.25
2 Flavour
7.75
3 After-taste
7.75
4 Acidity
7.75
5 Body
10
6 Uniformity
10
7 Clean cup
10
8 Sweetness
8.25
9 Balance
8.5
10 Overall grade
9
3
8
4
5
7 6
AA Kianzavi is a medium-bodied coffee with a transparent cup: nice mix of chocolate and cherry, cotton-candy sweetness and orange acidity. It is a very juicy and complex coffee.
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h t i w aining tr 76
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MYANM AR
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M YA N M A R
MYA NM A R
O
ver the last couple of years, secretive and exotic Myanmar, formerly Burma, has entered a new era. In 2015, after more than 50 years, Myanmar voted its first democratically elected government. Even from 2011, however, economic liberalisation started to open doors to new business opportunities and fast-paced growth. These shifts in the political landscape have benefitted the longdormant coffee sector. Despite coffee’s long history—it was first introduced to the Southeast Asian country in 1885 by British colonists—the coffee sector only grew in small steps due to lack of market access. More recently, multiple organizations have begun to invest in technology and capacity for coffee production, and the new coffees which have surfaced have been capturing the attention of the international specialty coffee community. Hot days and cool nights in the highlands of Myanmar form an ideal eco-system and climate for coffee cultivation. The dry and hot weather during harvest is ideal for naturals, which make up most of Myanmar's output. Stunningly unique coffees that have been hidden from the world for half a century and only surfaced in recent years, now score high and make headlines.
OUR RANGE: ––Chin Litai ––Ngu Shwe Li ––Shwe Ywar Ngan ––Ywangan
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POPULATION:
53.37 mio
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 1,299
CAPITAL:
Naypyitaw COFFEE VOLUME:
7,500 tons
CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–April
M YA N M A R
C HI N L I TÄ I COFFEEPRENEURS
T
he Chin people comprise one of the major ethnic groups in Burma. They live mainly in the Chin region, in the West of Myanmar. On the slopes of Mount Victoria, the area is very sparsely populated and is well off the beaten track. Over the last 30 years, coffee cultivation remained relatively unpopular due to Myanmar’s political isolation hindering market access. Chin Litäi is a group of enthusiastic “coffeepreneurs” founded in December 2016 by Nat Coffee and Prisma Coffee. They aim to foster coffee entrepreneurship and generate revenue for the Chin coffee region. With only 50 members at creation, the group has now grown to over 300 members from more than 10 tribes and 3 different townships. Employing a highly collaborative approach, they encourage the young coffee entrepreneurs to develop business acumen while cultivating and selling coffee. Chin Litäi was born out of the idea to produce the best quality coffee from Chin State. On untouched soil, the producers are cultivating coffee in their gardens, usually on less than half an acre. Most of the coffee trees grow on rugged terraces at altitudes of 1,500–2,000 meters above sea level. Cherries are handpicked and dried on African beds.
VOLCAFE SELECT
REGION:
Kanpelet, Matupi & Mindat, Chin ALTITUDE:
1,480–2,200 m.a.s.l. PRODUCER:
300 small holders FARM SIZE:
105 ha
VARIETY:
Catimor
CROP PERIOD:
Jan.–March
PROCESSING:
Natural
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N E PAL
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N E PA L
NEPA L
N
epal, home to eight of the world’s 10 highest peaks, is a rising star in the coffee world. The Himalayan climate in the landlocked country is highly conducive for coffee cultivation. Coffee was first introduced to the country by the monk Hira Giri, who brought seeds from Burma to the Gulmi District of Nepal. In recent years, a new generation of Nepali producers have been successfully raising the quality of their homeland’s coffee to international standards and increasing production from year to year. From 13 tons in 1995, production has increased to 463 tons in 2015. However, compared to other producers in Asia like India and Vietnam, the Nepali coffee output is still in its infancy. Large-scale commercial production is not common in Nepal and experts say that it should be. The International Trade Centre, based in Switzerland, conducted research that concluded that Nepal will never be a competitive exporter in the international coffee market when it comes to large volumes, but there is considerable interest in the nation’s specialty coffee. There are still large, empty tracts of land in the the hills of Nepal that could be used for coffee cultivation. As farmers learn that they can earn more from coffee than other crops such as millet and maize, more and more have switched to coffee cultivation. There is strong global demand, so with sufficient capacity building and continued investment in technology, Nepali producers will continue to charm the world with their flavorful coffees.
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POPULATION:
29.3 mio
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 835
CAPITAL:
Kathmandu COFFEE VOLUME:
450 tons
CROP PERIOD:
Jan.–April
N E PA L
ALPIN E COF F EE ES TATE FLORAL NOTES, FIZZY ACIDIT Y
T
he Alpine Coffee Estate is the result of a dream of two friends who believed that coffee can improve the life of their community in Nepal. In 2008, they established their coffee farm in the foothills of Nuwakot, north of Kathmandu, and focussed on producing highquality single-estate coffee for the growing specialty market. Planted on previously barren lands, the coffee and shade trees created a new home for local fauna and help to reduce soil erosion. Over the years, Alpine Coffee Estate has convinced farmers in the area to extend their activity to the culture of specialty coffee. Not only do they purchase the beans at a premium price, but they also actively train farmers to produce high-quality coffee sustainably. Now there is more income, a better perspective for the young generation, and less desertification. The Alpine Estate coffee offers a well-balanced cup with slight floral notes, medium body and fizzy acidity.
REGION:
Madanpur-8, Nuwakot ALTITUDE:
1,600–1,700 m.a.s.l. FARM:
Alpine Coffee Estate PRODUCER:
Kumud Singh FARM SIZE:
5.5 ha 500 small farmers VARIETY:
Bourbon, Typica, Caturra CROP PERIOD:
Jan.–April
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed
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N E PA L
THE COFFEE SCENE IN NEPAL I M P R E S S I O N S F R O M T H E YO U N G E S T S P E C I A LT Y C O F F E E G R O W E R
N
epal is, quite possibly, one of the youngest countries in terms of growing coffee. While it is believed that coffee was introduced to the famously mountainous nation in the late 1970s, cultivation only gained traction in the early 2000s. Kumud and Rabindra met at Kathmandu University. Sensing the potential of Nepali coffee, they decided to establish one of the first professional coffee estates in the country. Having purchased land in the region of Nuwakot, north of Kathmandu, they set up the Alpine Coffee Estate and planted over 10,000 Arabica seedlings. The first cherries were harvested in 2012. Focusing on the local market enabled them to gain market share in Nepal. “Initially, our plan was to export the coffee we produced. But four years down the line, we saw the local demand growing more than we had expected when we started the business,” says Kumud. “We thought that was a good time to start selling our coffee locally. We chose the brand name Katman’du Coffee.” The traditionally tea-drinking country has seen a significant increase in demand for coffee for outof-home consumption. By doing both local and international sales, Kumud and Rabindra were able to gain exposure to the different qualities and products that the different markets demanded.
86
In 2017, Alpine Coffee Company opened a coffee school at their offices in Kathmandu to train people who were interested in coffee or wanted to gain barista skills. In 2019, they established a coffee shop in Kathmandu where they hope to create a learning experience for their clientele, who are mainly expatriates, and the Nepali public. They are experimenting with different qualities from the different coffee growing zones of Nepal. They want to show the public what qualities Nepal has to offer. The coffee shop has also been experimenting with lighter roasts to educate the public regarding different roast profiles other than the default dark roast they are used to. The small roastery in the shop gives them the opportunity to roast on a daily basis, and to show the difference between fresh roasted quality and stale coffees. Their school and coffee shop serve as windows into Nepali coffee. Through education and tasting, they aim to develop the local market and gain international awareness. Only through harnessing the growing demand will new farmers cooperate and see the future that coffee can offer them. Kumud and Rabindra are aware that the adaptation to a coffee culture will take place gradually. But with the public showing a keen interest, the team is filled with hope. The future of Nepal may actually be in coffee!
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N E PA L
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N I C A R AG UA
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N I C A R AG UA
NICA R AG UA
N
icaragua is volcanic energy, colonial opulence, majestic mountains and the jasmin smell of flowering coffee.
While one of the largest nations in Central America, Nicaragua remains one of the least visited. Still it is definitely worth a visit. The country's natural riches rival those of Costa Rica and the colonial architecture is being restored, offering many heavyweight tourist attractions. While travelling one should also make sure to plan a stop to enjoy a cup of famous Nicaraguan coffee. Introduced in 1790 by Catholic Missionaries, coffee has become a significant contributor to the Nicaraguan export industry over the years. The coffee sector survived natural disasters and political turmoil and is now on its way up again with a bigger focus on quality. The best known coffees are grown in Jinotega, Matagalpa and Nueva Segovia, located in central and northern central Nicaragua. Most often, coffee is fully-washed and dried on patios and is produced by small holders owning less than 3 hectares.
OUR RANGE: ––La Bastilla Coffee Estate (extensive range of micro-lots) ––Talia Extra SHG, Finca San Ramon/San Jose
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POPULATION:
6.21 mio
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 2,222
CAPITAL:
Managua
COFFEE AREA:
132,500 ha
CROP PERIOD:
Dec.-March
N I C A R AG UA
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N I C A R AG UA
L A B A S TI L L A LETTING COFFEE EXPRESS I T S F U L L P OT E N T I A L
L
a Bastilla Coffee Estate, located in the north-east region of Jinotega, Nicaragua, is renowned for its coffee. Surrounded by the natural reserve Cerro Datanli El Diablo, just a few kilometers from Lago de Apanas, Finca La Bastilla is a tropical paradise for the fauna and flora founded on deep, favourable volcanic soils. Since 2003, the farm has been certified by the Rainforest Alliance and is striving for continued excellence. On its two farms, La Bastilla and Santa Luz, the estate employs around 50 permanent and up to 500 temporary employees during the harvest season. Finca La Bastilla creates opportunities for sustainable lifestyles and incomes through activities which include education at the La Bastilla Agricultural Boarding School, providing on-the-job training for students and hosting an ecolodge for visitors who become part of the farm’s activities. The environment is conserved by maintaining efficient use of river water. To prevent pollution, contaminated water is treated in bio-digesters, producing methane gas. This gas is channeled to the kitchen to be used for cooking.
MICRO-FARMS Micro-farms have been created throughout the estate, so that the coffee can express its full potential in accordance with the different microclimates. Each farm is further subdivided into lots. Lots are differentiated through the micro-farm, but also the variety of the coffee, the altitude and also the processing. Overall, La Bastilla produces up to 150 distinct micro-lots of coffees! La Llamada is a micro-farm to the north east of Finca La Bastilla. It was first planted in 2007 on a steep, south-facing slope. The farm produces only a small quantity of the highest quality La Llamada Geisha Natural per year. The lot is carefully harvested by hand and dried rigorously.
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REGION:
Jinotega, Nicaragua ALTITUDE:
1,250–1,450 m.a.s.l. FARM:
Finca La Bastilla PRODUCER:
La Bastilla Coffee Estate FARM SIZE:
311 ha, 180 ha of coffee CROP PERIOD:
Dec.–March
N I C A R AG UA
CUPPING SCORE
87.75
CUP PROFILE
1Â 10
8
1
2
Fragrance / Aroma
8.5
2 Flavour
8.5
3 After-taste
8
4 Acidity
8
5 Body
10
6 Uniformity
10
7 Clean cup
10
8 Sweetness
8.25
9 Balance
8.5
10 Overall grade
9
3
8
4
7
5 6
The La Llamada Geisha Natural Lot from La Bastilla is a full-bodied coffee with a transparent and complex cup: strawberry and chocolate, honey sweetness, alcoholic acidity and a long-lasting after-taste.
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U G ANDA
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U G A N DA
U G A NDA
U
ganda lies in the heart of East Africa on the shores of Lake Victoria, straddles the equator and is the source of the Nile. Sir Winston Churchill first described Uganda as the “Pearl of Africa,” while admiring its “magnificent variety of form and colour, profusion of brilliant life and its vast scale.” Benefiting from a bi-modal rainfall pattern and high altitudes, the country has a pleasant climate all year round and is lush with greenery. The mountain ranges to the east and west are home to Uganda’s arabica farmers, while robusta is produced on the central plateau. Almost all of the coffee is produced by smallholder farmers who intercrop their coffee fields with shade and banana trees. The government of Uganda promotes coffee production as a key driver for rural transformation.
OUR RANGE: ––Mount Elgon, A-Grade & AA-Grade ––Mount Elgon Buzibiti-Lots ––Mount Elgon Gibuzale ––Rwenzori-Lots ––Pura Cepa-Lots ––Honey-Lots
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POPULATION:
42.9 mio.
GDP PER CAPITA:
$ 604
CAPITAL:
Kampala
COFFEE AREA:
256,000 ha.
CROP PERIOD:
July–Feb. (arabica) Nov.–March & May–Aug. (robusta)
U G A N DA
RWENZOR I D AY LOT P U R A C E PA
O
ur Rwenzori Pura Cepa Day Lots are produced through a process called PURA CEPA, conceptualized by Latorre & Dutch. Our team in Uganda partners with Latorre & Dutch in Rwenzori to reduce some of the inefficiencies we noted in our coffee processing methods. The project is cemented in science, paying close attention to innovation and sustainability in the processing of coffee. The PURA CEPA project utilizes controlled processing on the microbiological level. The control variables include temperature, time, pH, sugar content and microorganisms such as strains of yeast and bacteria. In this way, we are able to select specific strains of beneficial yeast and bacteria to aid fermentation. We monitor the rates of activity of the microorganisms and through controlled fermentation, ensure that counterproductive bacteria, fungi and mould are eliminated from the process. This is done in stainless steel tanks. Fermenting in stainless steel tanks allows us to manage the coffee in a germ-free space and eliminate detrimental external factors. Through our sister company, Kyagalanyi Coffe Ltd., we are closely involved in the communities of Rwenzori. These lots were carefully selected and bought from farmers in our farmer groups. We buy high quality coffee (90-95% red cherries) at very competitive prices. We believe that, by improving our processing, we will improve the quality of coffees we produce and therefore influence better cherry-picking practices in the region.
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REGION:
Rwenzori
ALTITUDE:
1,100–2,200 m.a.s.l. PRODUCERS
Small holders VARIETY:
SL14, SL28 CROP PERIOD:
Feb.–March Oct.–Dec.
PROCESSING:
Pura Cepa
U 97
U G A N DA
RWENZOR I D AY B ATC H E S
T
he magnificent Rwenzori Mountains, famously known as the ‘Mountains of the Moon’, stretch for 120km along Western Uganda’s border with the Democratic Republic of Congo, and are home to the Bakonzo tribe. The high altitude, fertile soils and plentiful rainfall provide perfect conditions for growing Arabica beans, while the pristine snow-capped peaks and the glaciers give rise to many rivers. Coffee is grown under the shade of banana trees, while farms also produce cassava, maize, beans and groundnuts for local consumption and additional income. For Bakonzo farmers, the coffee crop is a mean of stable income that allows them to support their families and develop their homes. On average, each farmer works a plot of approximately 2 acres. Farm work is generally done by hand with all family members taking part. Bakonzo farmers group together to process and market their coffee, in an approach known as ‘share farming.’ This practice helps them to improve their processing, quality and marketing effectiveness. All of our Day Batches have been processed on a single day. Traditionally, farmers deliver dried cherries to the dry mill; however, for our Day Batches we purchase red cherries directly from the farmers. This has two positive effects: firstly, the farmer receives his money right after harvest. Secondly, our local team is able to gain a much better feeling for the batch quality. Not only are they extremely selective when analysing the cherries offered by the farmer, but they also control the drying process. After floating the cherries, our Specialty lots are dried carefully in greenhouses where they are turned every hour. Every evening, we close the greenhouses in order to maintain constant temperatures and hence ensure continuous drying.
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REGION:
Rwenzori
ALTITUDE:
1,100–2,200 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
SL14 and SL28 CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Dec. and Feb.–March
PROCESSING:
Natural
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100
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U G A N DA
MT. ELGON DAY LOT F R O M T H E LU S H S LO P E S O F A N E X T I N C T V O LC A N O
M
ount Elgon, located in Bugisu region of Uganda, is an extinct volcano on the border with Kenya. Variations in altitude, micro-climates and soils enable production of lots with different profiles. Coffee on Mount Elgon is hand-picked due to the small farm sizes, mountainous terrain and long harvesting seasons. More than 7,000 smallholder families take part in the project which began operations in 2007 and has been expanding ever since. It consists of a cherry value chain where home processed parchments are purchased from farmer groups. Ugandan Arabica grows favourably in plentiful rainfall, partly volcanic soils and shade from banana trees. This coffee is known for having great balance and a smooth cup combined with a medium acidity and good body. Chocolate overtones and citric, floral notes make this lot one of the finest produced in Uganda. Our five washing stations at the mountain process coffee from the surrounding farmer communities. Each lot reflects the specific terroir. In order to get more traceability, we have started to separate each and every day lot. Every day’s production is carefully cupped in Mbale. Whenever our quality team detects an outstanding day lot, we make sure that this lot is kept separate throughout the entire journey to Europe. Each of those Day Lots receive a number which makes sure that we can tell you precisely when your coffee has been harvested and processed. In our experience, this process not only helps the quality of the coffee but also the farmers which get an incentive to become better coffee farmers.
VOLCAFE SELECT
REGION:
Mount Elgon ALTITUDE:
1,100–2,200 m.a.s.l. VARIETY:
Nyasaland and Bugisu since1920 (30%). More recent introductions: SL14, SL28,SL34, KP423 and Ruiru 11 CROP PERIOD:
Oct.–Jan.
PROCESSING:
Fully-washed and sorted by hand
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h t i w lection se 102
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C O F F E E
&
G E N D E R - E Q UA L I T Y
THE COFFEE GAME I M P R O V I N G B Y P L AY I N G
Our team in Uganda, Kyagalanyi Coffee Ltd., in partnership with Strauss Coffee and aBi Trust developed a coffee game that is part of our gender programme for our farmer groups. It is used during training sessions at our voluntary Village Savings and Loan Association (VSLA) meetings. The coffee game helps coffee farmers to understand how they can improve gender equality and financial management in their households. With these lessons, we believe families are encouraged to invest in activities that not only improve their farms but their livelihoods as well. The purpose of the coffee game is to improve joint decision-making at a household level. It encourages farmers to discuss challenges they face together. The game is played with couples, so every situation that occurs in the game, needs to be discussed as a couple. The players of the game simulate situations that can happen in their own life. These are typically situations such as, “Should we stump, reduce our money in the short term but gain in the long term?”, “How much can we save?”, “When do we have to pay school fees?”, and, “Can we invest in other business opportunities?”
farmer group AB-13 in Abanga, West Nile, to share their thoughts. People like the game a lot. They would love to play more. They want to play often so they can really learn, not just play once. They say that in real life, fertilizer is often too expensive but, in the game, they can pay for it. What pleases me when playing this game with the farmers, is that they note to themselves that it is important to make decisions together. The game makes the players experience that “conflict in the home” affects many things. Keeping good relationships in the household is key to enable saving and working together. Another lesson they learn is that diversification of businesses is also important as it increases their opportunities. They make good decisions during the game: record keeping, saving money, stumping, putting down fertilizer, working together. If they do all that in real life, then they will improve fast. But some mentalities take long time to change. Benson Kumakech, Gender Officer, West Nile Arabica Scheme , Kyagalanyi Coffee Ltd.
We believe the game is a fun and enjoyable way to learn through financial management lessons and to encourage mutual decisions in the household. But don’t take our word for it! We asked some of the farmers and the field staff of our
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C O F F E E
&
G E N D E R - E Q UA L I T Y
This game was so nice. Today we learned the lesson that when you follow the procedures of how to manage your farm best, you will definitely improve your living and be able to send your children to school.
very important. We are already trying to save in the VSLA. I think that when we can use fertilizer and do more stumping as well as diversifying our businesses, our lives will change.
Sunday Okirawat, Gender Change Agent for AB-13.
Jackline Wanichan (Mother of 7)
The game has situations from our own life. This game is more about how we would like to live. I learned that it is important to have many crops and different kinds of businesses. Joint decision making is also
It was educational. When you plan together, your family situation improves. You will have a better family. Charles Wedone
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106
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COF F EE F UN
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CROS S WOR D 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8 9
10 11
12
13
14
15
108
ACROSS
DOWN
1. A coffee characteristic that reduces the coffee quality 3. The result of only one seed forming inside the cherry 4. Description of the bean before hulling 8. Volcafe’s path to sutainability 9. He is the commercial manager of Volcafe Select 10. The analysis of coffee 13. One of our three Cemorrado coffees 14. Expertise of Volcafe Select 15. A coffee farm in Brasilian (Portuguese)
2. A brewing method 5. Naturally occurring compound and solvent used for decaffeination (also derived through the fermentation of sugarcane) 6. A coffee variety named after an island (today named La Réunion) 7. Means ‘flower’ in Amharic 11. A ‘selected’ coffee from Indonesia 12. E xperts in coffee
VOLCAFE SELECT
GET TO KNOW U S WHERE ARE OUR COLLEAGUES FROM AND W H AT 'S T H E I R FAV O U R I T E C O F F E E ?
Sidamo Abeba
Blue Batak
La Bastilla Geisha
Mt Elgon
Lepaterique
Costa Rica
Tanzania
Germany
Switzerland
Kenya
Zippy Harriet Hannes Carlos Pascal
Costa Rica Tanzania Germany Switzerland Kenya
Colleague
Coffee
Switzerland
Carlos Hannes
1. One of the men comes from Switzerland, but not Carlos 2. O ur African ladies, Zippy and Harriet, prefer African coffee from countries north of where they are from 3. Pascal and Hannes speak the same language 4. Pascal is not a fan of Central American coffees, but our Costa Rican colleague really likes this Nicaraguan coffee. 6. Zippy grew up next to the Equator 7. O ur German colleague travelled to Central America and fell in love with this coffee
Harriet Pascal Zippy
ANSWERS Get to know us: Carlos: Costa Rica, La Bastilla Geisha Pascal: Switzerland, Blue Batak Across: Down:
Hannes: Germany, Lepaterique Zippy: Kenya, Sidamo Abeba
Harriet: Tanzania, Mt Elgon
1. Defect 3. Peaberry 4. Parchment 8. Volcafe Way 9. Tobias 10. Cupping 13. Hazel 14. Specialty 15. Fazenda 2. Espresso 5. Ethylacetate 6. Bourbon 7. Abeba 11. Blue Batak 12. QGrader VOLCAFE SELECT
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CO F FEE WI KI
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HARVES T C A L ENDA R
V O
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J U LY VOLCAFE SELECT
APR
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112
INDONE
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COSTA R IC A NICAR A G DA
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AL VOLCAFE SELECT
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HO N
EY
COF F EE S C R EENS Nr. of screens
Ø in mm
12
4.75 0.14
13 5
Tolerance (+/–)**
0.14
14 5.6 0.15
15 6
0.16
16 6.3 0.17
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Nr. of screens
Ø in mm
Tolerance (+/–)**
17 6.7 0.17
18 7.1 0.18
19 7.5 0.18
20 8
0.19
Sizes according to AFNOR and ISO norms ** Tolerances are based on the make of the screens
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THE ETHI OP I A N COF F EE VALUE C H A I N
CHERRIES 116
PRIMARY PROCESSING
AKARABI² COOP
FARMER¹
CHERRY BUYING UNIT
S U M M E R 2019
PA R C H M E N T VOLCAFE SELECT
“Becoming an exporter is the biggest success in my career. I now can sell clean coffee that I have been working really hard for.” BEKELE HETO, SMALLHOLDER FARMER FROM YIRGACHEFFE
GRE EN VOLCAFE SELECT
ROASTER
IMPORTER
EXPORT PROCESSING
ECX³
¹ Small-holder farmers or large-scale farms ² Local coffee suppliers ³ Ethiopian Commodity Exchange, established in 2008 ⁴ Since 2017/18 farmers are allowed to export coffee without coops or other intermediaries.
⁴
R OA S TED 117
118
DCMPROCESS
SUPERCRITICAL CO2-PROCESS
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THROUGH R E G E N E R A T I O N SEPARATION
THROUGH SEPARATION
THROUGH ABSORPTION
PRE-TREATMENT
EXTRACTION
SOAKING
MOISTURIZING
PRE-MOISTURIZING
GREEN COFFEE
WATER-EAPROCESS
D EC AFF EI NATI ON PRO C ES S ES DECAFFEINATION
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DRYING
DECAFFEINATED COFFEE
QUALITY CONTROL
POLISHING
COOLING
SPECIAL DRYING
STEAMING
POST-TREATMENT
119
UK & IRELAND GERMANY FRANCE SWITZERLAND I TA LY S PA I N
USA
G U AT E M A L A
HONDURAS
C O S TA R I C A COLOMBIA
PERU
VO BRAZIL
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VOLCAFE SELECT
J A PA N
CHINA
INDIA
VIETNAM
ETHIOPIA UGANDA
K E N YA
INDONESIA
SINGAPORE
TA N Z A N I A
PNG
OLCAFE D N U O R A E F A C VOL WORLD THE VOLCAFE SELECT
AUSTRALIA
121
CO NTAC T SWITZERLAND
GERMANY
Volcafe Select, Volcafe LTD Technoparkstrasse 7 CH–8406 Winterthur T+41 52 264 94 94 select@volcafe.ch
Gollücke & Rothfos GmbH Schlachte 3–5 DE–28195 Bremen T+49 421 33 97 33 select@grbcoffee.com
GREECE & CYPRUS
ITALY
Volcafe Select, WNES Coffee Co. 21, El. Venizelou Str. Glyfada GR–16675 Athens T+30 210 96 50 233 info@wnescoffee.com
Volcafe Select, Volcafe Italy Via Byron 14/4 IT–16145 Genova T+39 0 100 996 530 eprandi@volcafe.com
SPAIN & PORTUGAL
FRANCE
Volcafe Select, Volcafe Iberia Sagasta 27 ESP–28004 Madrid T+34 91 155 96 87 jose.duclos@volcafe.com
Volcafe Select, Volcafe France 27-29 Rue Chateaubriand FR–75008 Paris T+33 1 42 99 05 52 afournier@volcafe.fr
UK & IRELAND Volcafe Select Market Hall, Alexandra Road Clevedon UK–Bristol BS21 T: + 44 7912 083547 atucker@volcafe.ch
www.volcafeselect.com @volcafeselect
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VOLCAFE SELECT
FOLLOW US @volcafeselect
SWITZERLAND GERMANY S PA I N & P O R T U G A L GREECE & CYPRUS I TA LY FRANCE UK & IREL AND W W W.V O L C A F E S E L E C T.C O M
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@VOLCAFESELECT
VOLCAFE SELECT