Claire Lloyd has been a member of the Homebuilding & Renovating team for 14 years. She’s currently in the midst of another renovation.
elcome to a special issue of Homebuilding & Renovating, as we reveal the winners of The Daily Telegraph Homebuilding & Renovating Awards 2022.
Some of the highlights include an eco barn conversion which generates more energy than it consumes (something many of us will be envious of in this age of rising energy costs); a DIY selfbuild completed for £125k; and a collective self-build project which provides an ingenious model for creating new, affordable, green homes in towns and cities.
I have to admit, helping to judge the awards is one of the absolute highlights of my job, and the team and I feel humbled by the opportunity to see your projects and hear your build stories. We hope you find this year’s winners and shortlisted projects inspiring too — turn to page 23 to find out more.
The concluding month of the year provides an opportunity to reflect. For some of us that means contemplating a building project — not least, perhaps, because hosting over the holiday season has a habit of highlighting the shortcomings of our existing homes. As such, you might be picking up this magazine for the first time to find out more about building your own home. If so, then don’t miss Michelle Guy’s article ‘12 reasons to self-build’ (our version of the 12 days of Christmas if you will) to discover why it could be the perfect option for you (page 94).
The team and I hope you enjoy the issue, and we look forward to providing you with more inspiration and advice for your project in 2023.
Hundreds of thousands of homeowners over the years have found a visit to our shows the most important day of their whole extension, improvement or self-build project. Meet the designers, experts, builders and suppliers who will help you create the home of your dreams.
1000’s of products
Browse, touch and compare the products and services from well known leading brands. From doors & windows to flooring to heating, structural systems, home technology, and much more, we’ve got it covered.
Find out how you can cut down on energy usage in your home, save money on your bills, reduce your carbon footprint, hear about the latest trends and advancement in sustainability to help you make your home leaner and greener.
Whether it’s an extension, conversion, full renovation or self-build – take a seat in our Seminar or Masterclass Theatre.
From planning regulations to managing budgets, unlock the potential of your home by receiving a one-to-one meeting with one of our experts.
Unmissable speakers and well known industry experts will take to the stage to deliver our fantastic programme in our Seminar and Masterclass theatres. More
Editor Claire Lloyd
Deputy Editor Michelle Guy
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Contributions by Alison Wall & Seán O’Connell
ART Art Editor Karen Lawson
Group Art Director Billy Peel
Senior Art Editor Emily Smith
ANDY STEVENS
Is an awardwinning builder, broadcaster, and host of building podcast Build:It.
MICHELLE GUY
Is deputy editor and has just completed her kitchen renovation.
IAN ROCK Is a chartered surveyor and author of eight popular Haynes Home Manuals.
Contributions by Bryn Davies
MARKETING
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NATASHA BRINSMEAD
Is associate editor and has renovated her Edwardian home.
PAUL TESTA
Is an architect, the director of HEM Architects and a specialist in low-energy design.
JENNIFER GRIMBLE
Is a property writer who loves mid-century modern design.
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TIM PHILLIPS Is a quantity surveyor with other 30 years’ experience in construction.
AMY REEVES Is assistant editor and is currently renovating her mid-century home.
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TWICE
Building a new wing, sympathetic to the design of the original, has unlocked this cottage's potential
The latest news, products, workshops, events and ideas for all self-builders, extenders and renovators
ON THE COVER 23HOME
Our round-up of the most outstanding projects in the Daily Telegraph and Homebuilding & Renovating awards for 2022 starts here, with our inspiring Home of the Year
ON THE COVER 9412
There are myriad reasons people take up this life-changing adventure: we round up some of the most popular reasons here
Could the relatively unknown technique of tadelakt be right for your walls? We look at the pros and cons of this traditional approach to plasterwork
ON THE COVER 105HOW TO ATTRACT THE BEST BUILDER
Few things are as important as appointing the right builder for your project — here master builder Andy Stevens shares his thoughts on getting this right
ON THE COVER 108BUILDING REGS DECODED
Building control officer Paul Hymers shares his professional advice on complying with Building Regs — this month, Part M, covering accessibility standards
Travertine, marble, sandstone: whatever your budget, here's our pick of six of the best
ON THE COVER 117 QUOTE OR ESTIMATE?
Quantity surveyor Tim Philips explains the crucial differences between these two common pricing terms
ON THE COVER
Our planning consultant Simon Rix covers the essentials, from permitted development to gaining planning consent 124
OPEN-PLAN LIVING
How to plan for this everpopular approach to space, now that we're all living and working from home more than ever before
ON THE COVER 127 DEALING WITH CEILING CRACKS
Chartered surveyor Ian Rock looks at this most unnerving of building faults, including when there's no need to be concerned — and when it's time to call in the experts 131
156
Knocking
This month, our panel of experts answer your queries on drying times for plaster, removing a chimney breast, expiry times for planning permission and more
ON THE COVER 136AMAZING IDEAS FOR HALLWAYS
Take inspiration from these creative ways to design a light-filled, welcoming entrance full of personality 143
Your step-by-step guide to building your first self-build — from finding a plot to financing your project 153
HOW TO PREPARE FOR YOUR BUILD
Budgeting, insurance, site surveys: all the essentials for getting ready for that allimportant first day on site
186
This low-energy home uses many of the rural site's original materials — with dramatic effect
ON THE COVER 167 SOLAR PANELS IN WINTER
How to make the most of this popular renewable technology in the cloudiest months of the year
171
There's growing pressure to reduce carbon emissions during the build — architect Paul Testa offers some practical solutions
ON THE COVER 175HOW TO INSULATE A TERRACED HOME
Our experts explain how to maintain warmth in this quintessential British home
A round-up of the latest self-build and home renovation news, products and events. By Jennifer Grimble
New research from MyGlazing. com – a consumer advice website – has discovered that UK homeowners are likely to spend £16.3 billion on energy-saving home improvements over the next year. The study found that almost three in four Brits (72%) want to make their home more
efficient, given the current energy crisis.
The research revealed that, on average, homeowners are planning to spend £2,792 on green upgrades over the next 12 months, while one in six (16%) plan to spend more than £5,000.
Of those preparing to make home improvements, 28% stated they were
looking to replace their boiler with a new, energy-efficient alternative, 27% want to install draughtproofing and 25% want to install double or triple glazed doors.
The study also found that those looking to buy properties would be willing to pay 15% more for a home with an EPC rating of C or above.
Make UK Modular, the voice of the modular housing sector, is calling on the government to support modern methods of construction. In its latest report, ‘Greener, Better, Faster: Modular’s Role in Solving the Housing Crisis’, the trade body has identified that precision engineered homes, factory-built in areas where jobs are in demand, and
delivered where housing is needed, could quickly solve the housing crisis. Modular homes can deliver savings of 55% on energy consumption compared to the average UK home, the report states. Currently, 3,300 modular homes are built in the UK each year, but by 2025, with government support, Make UK Modular believes this could grow to 20,000.
of homeowners now consider the energy efficiency of their home as more important as a result of the cost of living crisis, according to research by property maintenance solution provider, Help me Fix.
14-15 JANUARY FARNBOROUGH HOMEBUILDING
Farnborough International Exhibition & Conference Centre
No matter what stage you’re at with your project, you’re guaranteed to find the inspiration, products and advice you need at our Farnborough show in early 2023.
This striking Italian porcelain slab from Cullifords is guaranteed to make a statement. Measuring 6mm thick, Agata Blu Porcelain features dramatic pebble shapes in rich ocean shades. The slab is heat-, stainand scratch-resistant, making it suitable for kitchen splashbacks, flooring and outdoor use. Priced from £260 per m2 .
This highly-illustrated, practical design guide explores how to achieve better energy performance in all types of new build homes. Offering solutions to help self-builders improve efficiency at the design stage, the book also explores low carbon building materials, such as hempcrete blocks. RRP £30.00.
Online, via www.potton.co.uk
This two-part, virtual masterclass explores the steps you need to take to find the right plot of land, including where to start your search and how to understand your local planning policies.
Blinds2go has launched Double Thermal Blinds, a collection of energysaving window dressings designed to help homeowners cut their heating bills. The brandnew blinds feature two layers of honeycomb pockets, which work to keep rooms cool in summer and warm in winter. Products in the range are made to measure and available in a kaleidoscope of colours. Prices start from £32.25.
‘Hello Hydrogen’ is a new hydrogen heating campaign launched by leading names in the UK energy industry, including Worcester Bosch and Cadent Gas. The campaign aims to highlight how hydrogen boilers could lower carbon emissions from homes — by 20 million tonnes a year — after switching from natural gas. The campaign is also urging the government to restate its commitment to embracing hydrogen heating in homes and to help make it a viable choice for UK households.
At a time when sustainability is more pertinent than ever, Quooker and Used Kitchen Exchange (UKE) have partnered to offer consumers reconditioned ex-display Quooker tap products at a 32% to 39% discount on their recommended retail prices. The initiative is part of UKE’s mission to encourage consumers to rethink how they buy a kitchen — not only helping them save thousands of pounds but also giving them a way to offset their carbon footprint. The ex-display taps — many of which have never been used — are all supplied with a Quooker Pro3 Tank and come with Quooker’s standard 24-month guarantee. All the taps are supplied in Quooker packaging and are available on 48-hour delivery with a £35 delivery charge.
New research from the Underfloor Heating Store has named the top improvements people can make to add value to their homes. The study placed solar panels first, finding they can add an estimated 38% to a property’s price tag. Interestingly, laying decking, installing a new kitchen or resurfacing a driveway can all boost a home’s value by 10%
Rank Home Added Improvement value
1st Solarpanels 38%
2nd Annexes 30%
3rd Extensions 23%
4th Loftconversions 20%
Joint5thDriveways,decking andkitchens 10%
The brand-new room controller from JUNG will allow you to operate your home’s lighting, shading and interior temperature at the touch of a button. The LS Touch can be installed in different rooms, allowing for independent operation and is available in seven designs, so you can choose one to suit your style. Installation is quick and easy since the LS Touch can slot into a standard device socket. From £428.33.
The Vellamo Touch Control Single Lever Mono Kitchen Mixer Tap can be operated by nudging the spout. It boosts a 360-degree swivel nozzle and comes with a five-year guarantee. £159.99, Tap Warehouse.
The Tinkisso kitchen tap from Dowsing & Reynolds is the perfect option for adding a pop of colour. Formed from painted brass and alloy, it comes in a range of shades, including Gold, Mint Green and Barbie Pink. £139.99
Wodar’s Heritage Cruciform 3 in 1 Boiling Hot Water Tap provides cold, hot and boiling water from one spout. Available in copper, chrome and brushed brass with child-safety features for operation. From £599.
The Daily Telegraph and Homebuilding & Renovating have been working together for over 30 years to showcase the very best individual homes in the UK. From innovative self-builds to eye-catching extensions and cutting-edge conversions, the awards celebrate the hard work, determination and imagination of the homeowners, as well as the design and build teams and friends and family behind them.
Every year the judges are blown away by the quality of projects submitted and the fascinating stories which accompany each one — and this year is no different. Our shortlisted projects include custom and collective self-builds which push the boundaries of well-designed and well-built homes, super-eco barn conversions and awe-inspiring extension designs.
The appetite for creative, flexible and efficient homes that reflect homeowners’ personalities and lifestyles is clearly not going anywhere, even when national lockdowns, long lead-in times and materials shortages stand in the way.
An inspirational example of this is our Home of the Year, Emily and Aaron Radford’s impressive DIY renovation. Once a farm, then an isolation hospital for patients suffering from
scarlet fever before being turned into two houses, their new family home is imaginative and stylish. A testament to their tenacity and future thinking, they took the run-down houses back to brick and reconfigured the layout.
Working with family and friends they have brought the house up to 21st-century standards, with insulation taking the properties from an EPC rating of E to a B (with further scope for an air source heat pump, solar PV panels and battery storage in the future).
“This project was a labour of love for this young family, who worked tirelessly during lockdown to breathe new life back into the Victorian building,” says judge Claire Lloyd.
“The Radfords peeled back layers of unsympathetic additions and ‘improvements’ to reinstate original features, and spent many an hour scouring reclamation yards to find suitable replacements for those features that had been lost.
“What is particularly commendable, however, is the improvements which have gone into upgrading the thermal performance and the futureproofing of this home. This is a fine example of how to make a period home fit for 21stcentury living and beyond — a task which has never been so important.”
The category for those who built their dream home from scratch. The judges were looking for well-designed new homes of all styles, sizes and budgets
Self-Build Zone is the market-leading and award-winning provider of Site Insurance and Structural Warranties for self-builders. Our Site Insurance policies protect new builds, renovations, conversions and extensions during the build process. Our structural warranties are lender approved and protect the new works for up to 10 years after completion. We only use A-rated insurers to ensure you have the best cover for your project.
For projects that have extended an existing property to create a home that perfectly suits your lifestyle
For over 20 years IDSystems has set the standards for innovative glazing systems for self-builders and renovation projects. Its multi awardwinning product range includes the EDGE2.0 ultra-slim sliding doors and vistaline, the exclusive slide and turn door system, alongside a complete glazing package of bespoke windows, doors and glass roofs.
From barns and schools to churches and other such non-domestic buildings. We were keen to see structures that had been transformed into modern homes
Sponsored by ABC+ Warranty Award-winning ABC+ Structural Warranty provides the most cost-effective warranty in the UK. Suitable for: conversions, new builds or renovations, self-builders or developers. ABC+ is mortgage lender approved and suitable for those purchasing their homes under the government’s Help to Buy scheme. Clients can rest assured that they will receive high-quality inspections and a Warranty Certificate to protect against structural defects, an essential requirement for your home, development and for your mortgage lender.
Focusing on previously dated, forgotten and unloved homes that have been saved through careful restoration, imaginative remodels or ambitious renovation schemes
Sponsored by Kinedo
Kinedo is Europe’s largest manufacturer of all-in-one shower cubicles. The extensive range includes bath replacement models — ideal for the straight swap of a bath in any renovation project. Also perfect for self-builds, each unit is supplied with internal glass panels, shower tray, external panels, door and all shower fittings.
For those that built or retrofitted a home to the very highest sustainable standards
Hand moulded from natural timbers, Millboard decking looks just like real wood but completely outperforms it: it’s slip resistant, does not require regular sanding, painting, staining or oiling and will not rot or splinter. Available in both contemporary and traditional colours, there is a shade to enhance every self-build or renovation.
For any type of home with a flair for finishing touches and attention to detail
Sponsored by Harris
Let’s Decorate...
Whether you are an experienced DIYer or a novice, leading painting and decorating brand Harris is here to help you achieve perfect, satisfying results in the least possible time. With a task-specific range of brushes, rollers and preparation/clean-up tools, Harris is all about smooth finish, super-neat edges and great paint coverage.
A category for homes that represent exceptional value for money, or projects that have been achieved on a tight budget
Sponsored by Morsø
Over 160 years of pioneering design has led Morsø to develop both indoor and outdoor collections that champion Scandinavian design and true craftsmanship. Passionate about how its products look and work, it strives to create stoves, cookware, barbecues and more that fit into a variety of homes, bringing with them an assurance of excellence.
This category is designed for homes facilitated by architects, developers or suppliers of all shapes and sizes
Sponsored by Potton
For nearly 60 years, Potton has designed and built high-quality homes for thousands of self-builders. We know how important it is for a house to suit the lifestyle of the people living there. As a package company, we’ll guide you through every stage of the self-build process, from finding the plot and securing planning permission, through to creating the design and constructing the frame. Potton offers a range of services to help make your self-build as simple and stress-free as possible.
For homes delivered against all the odds, or that significantly improve the lives of their occupants
Sponsored by Sips Eco
Sips Eco is the UK’s premier
award-winning structural insulated panel home manufacturer, designing and manufacturing highly energy efficient homes across the UK. As industry leaders, Sips Eco creates homes that are seven times stronger than timber frame and three times stronger than brick and block construction. Extremely quick to build, highly insulated and eco-friendly, the future of building is here!
For homes that cater to every aspect of modern tastes and living. The judges were looking for homes that use clever design to suit a contemporary lifestyle
Sponsored by Korniche
Flood your living space with natural light by installing industry-leading roof lanterns and bi-folding doors from Korniche. Combine smart engineering with inspirational design to immerse your home in the outside world.
This category celebrates homes that represent future-proofed, creative concepts by featuring the very latest technologies, smart automation and cutting-edge design techniques
Sponsored by Jewson
At Jewson we offer a wide range of supplies for all trades, including building materials, roofing, landscaping, kitchens and bathrooms as well as specialist tool hire. Tradespeople and self-build customers can also take advantage of Build Aviator to help take the stress away through support with estimating, compliance and scheduling projects. We’re committed to giving builders, tradespeople and self-builders everything they need to build more sustainably and more profitably, with less hassle.
Chosen from one of the shortlisted homes, the Home of the Year celebrates the most outstanding project in the judges’ eyes. The winner has also received £1,000 of John Lewis vouchers.
Sponsored by Korniche
FIND OUT MORE AT www.korniche.co.uk
Or follow us on Instagram www.instagram.com/ korniche_systems/ or Facebook www.facebook.com/ kornichelantern/
If you’re looking to maximise the amount of natural light in your home, adding roof lanterns and bi-folding doors into your glazing mix could be a smart move.
The market-leading Korniche roof lantern provides best-in-class thermal properties and exceptional aesthetics, bringing an architectural statement and height to any flat roof extension. Engineered for strength, the lantern can be manufactured in square or rectangular configurations up to 6x4m.
The Korniche bi-folding door, meanwhile, delivers quality at a great price, and comes with a 10-year manufacturer warranty. Its exceptional build and engineering ensures that the door delivers slim sightlines, and meets PAS24 security standards through its locking systems that feature lockable shoot-bolt handles and a YALE 3-star anti-snap barrel with a £1,000 money back guarantee.
Its colour matching handle sets for traffic and shootbolt handles can be specified with brushed stainless steel or chrome finishes. And once installed, its precision
articulated axle, with fully bearing rollers, delivers an exceptionally smooth operation.
Both the Korniche bi-folding door and the roof lantern provide your builder or installer with the easiest and fastest speed of installation of any comparable product on the market. What’s more, they comply with new regulations for ventilation, security and thermal efficiency when installed with laminated glass.
The multi-award-winning Korniche aluminium bifolding doors and roof lantern are available through resellers, installers and builders nationwide, with free delivery on site of frames and glass.
Korniche’s bifolding doors and roof lanterns combine quality with strength, thermal efficiency and aesthetics for award-winning results
A sudden job relocation saw Jeremy and Melanie Offer move to another part of the country and into the unknown…
For the new accommodation block, Jeremy and Melanie chose low-embodied carbon materials, including the outer cladding in sustainably sourced spruce.
HOMEOWNERS Jeremy and Melanie Offer
LOCATION Henley-on-Thames
First planning application submitted JANUARY 2018
timeline
Planning permission approved APRIL 2018
Works completed JANUARY 2021
Start on site DECEMBER 2018
o say that Jeremy and Melanie Offer are happily ensconced in their countryside home in Henley-on-Thames is an understatement, nevertheless their story is one of surprises. Five years ago they were living in Cheshire when Jeremy heard that his work would now be based in the south, at which point they suddenly found themselves relocating. They could have settled for finding a home conveniently close to Jeremy’s new workplace but they took a different approach. “Instead of focusing on one specific area to live in, we looked for our ideal property first,” says Melanie. “We fancied an adventure.”
So when the pair heard about a barn with potential in Henley-on-Thames, they drove down to look at it, both with low expectations, but as soon as they got out of the car they were smitten and soon after put in an offer on it. “The man who lived here before was an architect and I think he converted it from a falling down barn in the 1990s,” says Jeremy. “It was converted into a home and he’d done the structural work really well.”
The couple freely admit they were taking a leap into the unknown, which came with its own moments of self doubt — the biggest of which was on the day they picked up the keys and stood in front of the newly acquired building. “We both said, ‘What have we done, we’ve spent all of this money on a cowshed’ and we had a slight panic attack,” says Melanie. “But we went for a walk around the area and found a friendly old pub and, strangely, that somehow seemed to settle us down!”
Serendipity played its part, too. When the couple were in the process of moving down from Cheshire, they needed a place to stay and ended up renting a local cottage that was annexed to an
“Instead of focusing on one area, we looked for the ideal property first — we fancied an adventure”
The newly laid polished concrete flooring was taken through the existing barn to the new building, linking the two buildings together materially as well as enhancing the patio area.
old barn that had been renovated by Luke McLaren of McLaren Excell Architects. That barn was Luke’s father’s and as well as the building being the inspiration for the whole project, it also cemented the Offers’ relationship with McLaren Excell.
“The barn came with planning permission to build an extension but the design wasn’t to our taste so we put in for a retrospective planning application to redesign it,” says Jeremy. The couple decided to turn the old barn and its adjacent 19thcentury cart shed into their main living quarters. “You see so many conversions where the barn is divided up into various rooms, thereby losing the character of the whole space, but we wanted to keep it as honest as we could,” he adds. And so when they came to building an interior structure to house the kitchen, pantry, cloakroom and mezzanine office, they made it freestanding and not in contact with the 17th-century timber frame. “It was our way of showing respect to the Grade II-listed building,” says Jeremy.
With the interior, Melanie says they just wanted something unfussy: “It’s a rural property so we needed to incorporate materials that are robust — this concrete floor means we don’t have to worry about traipsing about in our shoes or the dogs clattering around,” she says. “Plus the floor is heated by the ground source heat pump, which is really effective. We were
worried this would be a big draughty barn but, amazingly, it’s one of the areas with the warmest, most even temperature.”
But the old barns still had limitations — in both the amount of family living space they could offer and in the building’s potential environmental performance. The solution to the first problem was to build a new barn to house the sleeping quarters. “When it came to the design of this, we discussed it at length with McLaren Excell,” says Jeremy. “Being a designer myself, I actually modelled and rendered a few views of how I wanted it to look, then Luke and the team added layers we hadn’t thought about, as well as many other important details.”
Regarding the environmental aspect, the architects employed innovative detailing and products such as a ground source heat pump and other sustainable technologies to provide virtually all the heating needed for the building, all year round.
Of the overall project, Melanie says, “It took a bit longer than we thought and was way more expensive, but that’s par for the course, isn’t it? I asked the builder how you budget for these things and he said you can’t — you just keep on going till you run out of money! This has been an adventure of good surprises — from discovering how stimulating the whole process could be, to finding that we’d unknowingly moved to an area of incredible beauty with an amazing community spirit.”
A suspended lighting track, set at the height of a regular ceiling, makes operating the system much easier. “It has effectively lowered the height of the barn in specific zones to create a more intimate feel without having to resort to a false ceiling,” says Jeremy.
“The exquisite materials Jeremy and Melanie chose to use in their home cocoon you, even in the original barn with its vast vaulted ceiling. The patina of the steel box, the warmth of the original wood, the touchable polished concrete and the new oak joinery in the extension all create a warm, welcoming and tactile home. The interior design masterfully meshes together the existing barn and new extension to create a home that is full of character and charm.”
In the new barn, materials were carefully chosen to soften the look. As well as incorporating oak detailing, eco-friendly tadelakt plasterwork was widely used on the walls, adding beauty with its warm texture.
ARCHITECTS
McLaren Excell: www.mclarenexcell.com
CONTRACTOR
Miles Builders: www.milesbuilders.co.uk
STRUCTURAL ENGINEER
Ingealtóir: 020 7267 7540
GREEN ENERGY SUBCONTRACTOR
WDS Energy: www.wdsgreenenergy.co.uk
JOINERY
Oakwood Bespoke Joiners: www.oakwood-bespoke-joinery.co.uk
METALWORK
Sunbeam Metalwork: www.sunbeamgroup.co.uk
INSULATED PANELS
Kingspan: www.kingspan.com
FLOORING
Concrete Flooring Contractors: www.theconcreteflooring.com
GLAZING
IQ Glass: www.iqglassuk.com
LIGHTING XAL Lighting: www.al.com
ELECTRICAL FITTINGS
Focus SB Sockets: www.focus-sb.co.uk
Drury Casement Co: www.drurycasement.co.uk Fineline: www.finelinealuminium.co.uk
The Rooflight Company: www.therooflightcompany.co.uk
SANITARYWARE
Vola: www.en.vola.com
While the use of steel detailing could seem incongruous in a period-style property, Jeremy and Melanie have used it sympathetically in the old barn. “I think it’s seen to best effect on the steel-clad kitchen cabinetry,” says Melanie. “It needs to be seen in real life to do it justice — the way it reflects the light and the resulting patterns that form on its surface create a stunning contrast with the surrounding oak framework.”
And according to Alex Streatfeild of McLaren Excell, the choice of raw black steel reflects the industrial heritage of the building, in finishes adapted to function in various environments, from joinery cladding to storage, fireplaces and window apertures. “Black light fittings were also chosen to complement the black of the raw steel, with their added advantage of disappearing into the shade of the barn rafters,” he says.
for ‘cutting in’. The Harris Ultimate Walls & Ceilings Blade Brush is perfect with its tapered bristles to create an edge as thin as a blade, giving you absolute control and precision.
Creating your dream interior can be stress-free if you use the right tools for the job. Here to help is the iconic decorating brand Harris, manufacturer of paint brushes and other decorating tools that are all taskspecific and designed to produce a perfect finish.
Investing in the right tools is key. You’ll pay a bit more at the start to get good quality decorating tools and the right shape and size, but you will get great paint coverage, neat edges, and perfect, smooth finishes.
To get the best results, preparation is everything. The Harris Ultimate range includes decorating tools and products for preparing and repairing flat and curved surfaces, all with comfortable grip handles for easy working.
Begin by painting the edges using a paint brush designed
Now you are ready to paint the whole room. Choose from the Harris Ultimate Powercoat Roller, or if you prefer a brush, a Harris Ultimate Walls & Ceilings Flat Brush, which comes in sizes up to three inches wide. All are designed for
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DESIGNER Border Oak
There are few who would embark on a self-build project shortly after a major cardiac arrest, but this is exactly what John Greene, founder of Border Oak, did when a rare plot opportunity arose within the village where he’d spent his life. The project would be a key part of his recovery and the result is a beautifully crafted Arts & Crafts-inspired new build which John and Patsy now call home.
“John and Patsy’s home combines the best of modern living – an easy-tomaintain open-plan concept, dedicated home office, high levels of thermal efficiency and so on – with high-quality
materials and local craftsmanship,” says judge and editor Claire Lloyd. “There’s something to enjoy from every angle — from the elegant lead brise soleil outside, to the stained glass window, gifted to John by his father, which has been carefully restored and incorporated into the back door.
“This project also highlights the importance of establishing a new home within its surroundings by considering the landscaping from an early stage,” she adds. “Patsy’s vision for the burgeoning garden, with its wildflower meadow and local apple trees, should be commended.”
Andrew
ARCHITECT Mailen Design
LOCATION Oxfordshire
PROJECT Conversion of Grade II-listed barn
After falling in love with a derelict Grade-II listed barn, Kerry and Andrew, alongside architect Ben Mailen, carefully restored the building — a job which involved unpicking 250 years of different additions and repairs to highlight its special character and beauty. The couple managed the project from 6,000 miles away in Panama, working closely with Ben and their build team to ensure an
appropriate and authentic conversion into a family home.
Internally the timbers have been left exposed in the vaulted spaces while the barn’s envelope has been insulated above and beyond Building Regulations. What’s more, the 21st century additions include complete home automation, from the lights to heating, so when they’re away the house remains as efficient as possible.
ARCHITECT John Kinsley Architects
LOCATION Edinburgh
PROJECT Collective custom build flats
This incredible project was driven by four families who purchased a small urban site to design and build bespoke flats designed with sustainability and high-quality construction in mind. “What I love about this project is the community spirit, self-build sensibilities and entrepreneurial ethos that has come together to create homes that are practical and budget-friendly,” remarks judge Steve Jenkins. Of the four families
who purchased the plot, three of them were current residents in the area and all were keen to embrace the traditional Scottish tenement model, with a central shared stair, plus a shared roof garden. Cross laminated timber was used to build the highly insulated and airtight block. Steve adds: “A high level of sustainability, Passivhaus equivalent standards, low maintenance and bespoke flats make this a model others should follow.”
HOMEOWNERS Jamie Adams and Madeline Hutton ARCHITECT Noel Wright Architects
Building on a greenfield site, in a conservation area and outside a settlement policy boundary is not for the faint hearted, but Jamie and Maddie took a gamble on their perfect plot. “What I really admired about Hill Top House was the tenacity of self-builders Jamie and Maddie,” says judge Michelle Guy. “They navigated a rather arduous planning journey on and off over 20 years but eventually got to build a wonderful family home that sits perfectly in the vernacular and suits the needs of their family favourably — their project truly epitomises the spirit of self-build.” Design details elevate this quintessential country house into a family home that can be enjoyed by the Adams family as well as when friends visit. Michelle adds: “And the secret dog kennel cleverly designed into the panelled understairs is ingenious!”
This multigenerational live/ work space was lovingly designed and built by father and son team Sam and Chris to provide a home for Sam while he splits his time between the UK and abroad as well as a home office for Chris, an architect. Taking on everything from the ground up, the resulting home (just 58m2) is filled with ingenious storage and design solutions, including a rooftop terrace, to make the most of the tiny
footprint. “There’s so much to love and admire about The Still House,” comments judge Jack Woodfield. “Not only does that low build cost defy your expectations when you see the quality and ambition of the house up close, but the fact it was designed and built by a father and son duo to keep costs down is astounding. The exterior and interiors are breathtaking, too. I’m certain this project will inspire many future self-builders.”
Mike and Sue Nicholls
ARCHITECT
Helyer Davies Architects LOCATION Emsworth PROJECT Contemporary self-build
Mike and Sue Nicholls’ self-build looks to the future in every sense of the word. A modern home filled with the latest smart technologies and built to Passivhaus standards, the design goes above and beyond. “With the entire build raised to address rising sea levels and a modern sea defence wall incorporated into its design, the coastal project sets a new standard in futureproofing our
homes,” comments judge Amy Willis. “Rainwater harvesting, solar panels with Tesla storage, a ground source heat pump and triple glazing all add to its eco credentials but the build being able to evolve with its occupants is what caught the judges’ eye.” Not only will it take on external challenges — but internal ones the family inside might face, too, with accessible entrances and space for a lift. A true lifetime home.
This hands-on husband and wife team have more than doubled the footprint of their small rural cottage and created a modern home fit for 21st century living
NAMES Elaine Paterson Gordon and Alan Gordon
LOCATION Luss, Argyll & Bute
BUILD TIME August 2014 – October 2017
SIZE OF COMPLETED HOUSE 120m2
HOUSE COST £245,000 (August 2012)
BUILD COST £150,000
f you’re looking to buy and extend an historic property in a national park, you may find yourself constrained by strict planning restrictions — but as Elaine Paterson Gordon and her husband Alan found, there are ways to win over the planners and achieve the extra space you’re after.
The couple loved the home’s location, on the banks of Loch Lomond in Argyll and Bute; the house, a 19th century listed stone cottage, was less appealing.
“The house only had one bedroom, and the low ceilings and small windows meant the rooms were dark inside,” says Elaine. “The site was particularly sensitive as it’s part of a group of ‘chocolate box’ cottages which are very quaint but not always conducive to modern living.”
The couple, both architects, worked closely with the national park planning authority to scope out ways to extend the cottage in ways that were sympathetic to the local area, but still met their ambitions to greatly increase the cottage’s footprint.
“Normally, Local Plan planning guidance requires any new extensions to be subservient to the existing dwelling — usually this means avoiding front extensions, keeping to a lower ridge height, a smaller footprint and so on,” explains Elaine.
“However, in this case, we were able to more than double the size of the original cottage with careful choice of materials and the design. In fact Historic Scotland said that our property ‘contributes nicely to the streetscape of the cottages in the local area’.”
“We did all the excavations ourselves, hauling out rocks which we later used in landscaping”
The secret to their success, says Elaine, is the geometry of the extension, which deliberately echoes the existing cottage with the same width and roof pitch, creating a harmonious relationship between old and new.
And rather than simply mirroring the original stone cottage, the couple have opted for a contemporary design for the extension.
The couple reconfigured the existing layout to provide an open-plan, light-filled living/dining/kitchen with a mezzanine-level home office above and a new master bedroom suite with en suite and dressing area. The existing cottage was earmarked for three further bedrooms, a family bathroom and utility space.
Construction methods are similarly up to date. “The original cottage would have been built using materials and methods of the time such as thick stone walls, slate roofs and small windows, while the new extension takes advantage of the
advances in construction. So for example, the walls are well insulated and we used a steel frame to allow us to create a double height space and large windows to make the most of the natural light and views,” explains Elaine.
“We chose materials to provide a lightweight contrast to the solidity of the existing cottage including timber, glass and zinc. We also used slate flooring inside and outside to create a seamless transition between the house and its surrounding garden.”
As well as its overall form, the extended cottage includes standout design features that Elaine occasionally shows to clients who want to see them in situ.
“We travelled a lot before we had the children and stayed in nice hotels, and we were keen to replicate the idea of having a freestanding bath in the bedroom,” says Elaine.
Other highlights include herringbone bamboo flooring in the hallway, floor-to-ceiling corner glazing in the extension’s open
plan living room, dining and kitchen area, and multiple roof windows, which flood the new space with natural light.
The cottage’s outdated oil-fired boiler was also removed and replaced with a more environmentally-friendly biomass heating system.
Construction of the extension began in summer 2014. “It was a true self-build with all building work undertaken during holidays, weekends and every spare moment by me and my husband, together with lots of friends and family members,” says Elaine.
“We didn’t quite know what we were letting ourselves in for! We did all the excavations ourselves, hauling out rocks which we later used in the landscaping. Any soil that we removed was spread over the garden so we didn’t need to take it off site.
“We also poured the concrete slabs for the foundations, with us raking the concrete as we poured — we didn’t have very long to do it, as it soon starts to set. We put screed over the top, laid
the insulation and installed the underfloor heating pipes.”
Pretty well every task, bar the zinc cladding, which needed a specialist sub-contractor, was carried out on a DIY basis, with the couple living in the old cottage throughout the works.
“We even did the steels ourselves: that was one of the best days of the build,” says Elaine. “We got a few friends to help and slotted the pieces together — it was very satisfying, like a huge Meccano or Lego set.
“It was a big learning process and great fun for us. We finally completed the work three years later, in 2017, just before the arrival of our first child!”
Now that the hard work is behind us what do they most enjoy? “Without doubt, it’s the contrast between the cosy spaces of the old cottage and the open-plan, bright, doubleheight spaciousness of the extension,” says Elaine. “We feel that the cottage nicely marries the old and new while creating an ideal backdrop for modern family living.”
Roselea Cottage, Luss, is now available for holiday stays. Visit Airbnb to find out more.
A freestanding bath in the master bedroom brings a touch of hotel-style luxury to the new master bedroom suite.
GROUND
BEDROOM
GROUND FLOOR BEFORE
COSTS
STEELWORK £14,000 WINDOWS £20,000
£15,000
MASTER ENSUITE BEDROOM
ARCHITECT
Paterson Gordon Architecture: www.patersongordonarchitecture.co.uk
STEELWORK Filshie Fabrications: www.filshiefabrications.co.uk
SLATE One Stop Roofing: www.onestop-roofing.co.uk
ZINC ROOFING
VM Zinc: www.vmzinc.com
EXTENSION WINDOWS Smarts Aluminium: www.smartsystems.co.uk
COTTAGE WINDOWS
Blairs Windows & Doors: www.blairswindows.co.uk
ROOFLIGHTS Fakro: www.fakro.co.uk
INSULATION Kingspan: www.kingspan.com
TIMBER CLADDING Russwood: www.russwood.co.uk
UNDERFLOOR HEATING
Duncan McKillop: www.duncanmckillopcontracts.com
ALUMINIUM FLASHINGS FAB24: www.fab24.co.uk
BIOMASS BOILER Grants Engineering: www.grantuk.com
IRONMONGERY Turnstyle: www.turnstyledesigns.com
KITCHEN Symphony Kitchens: www.symphony-group.co.uk
BATHROOMS Victorian Plumbing: www.victorianplumbing.co.uk
FLOOR FINISHES Natural Slate Company: www.theslatecompany.co.uk
BAMBOO FLOORING Bamboo Flooring Company: www.bambooflooringcompany.com
INTERNAL DOORS Jeld-wen: www.jeld-wen.co.uk
WOODBURNING STOVE Firemaker: www.firemaker.co.uk
STONE CLADDING Real Stone Cladding: www.realstonecladding.co.uk
With the changes to Building Regulations that came into force in June 2022 and the rising energy prices, the focus on thermal efficiency of glazing systems for new-build homes, extensions and renovations has never been greater.
Will Mitchell, SUNFLEX UK’s Trade Account Manager, offers some advice and ideas on aluminium bifold doors for those planning a project.
How have the changes to Building Regulations impacted the choice of aluminium bifold doors?
The challenge for those tackling an extension or self-build is now finding the balance between performance, thermal efficiency and aesthetic appeal when it comes to glazed doors, but the SUNFLEX SF75eco aluminium bifold door system ticks all of those boxes.
The SF75eco has been designed with more than 35 years of folding door experience by SUNFLEX in Germany and combines slender frames, large panel sizes (up to 3000mm tall and up to 1200mm wide), the widest range of configuration options and unbeatable thermal performance standards — making it perfect for whatever you have planned.
The changes to efficiency standards have had a big impact on the aluminium bifold doors available. The previous generation of doors were designed to hit a certain level of performance but those will no longer be an option.
The SF75eco has been specifically designed with thermal performance in mind. It features a huge 44mm thermal break that limits heat loss through the frames of the doors and as a result no aluminium folding door system on the market can provide better energy efficiency standards — with the doors even capable of meeting Passivhaus standards, with U values from just 0.8W/m2K (based on a centre pane of 0.5W/m2K).
The SF75eco is the most versatile of any aluminium bifold door system. It can be configured to almost any design requirements, whether you are looking for a single set of doors across the back of your house, or a huge expanse of glazing across a much larger aperture.
The doors can be designed to open inwards or outwards, with anything between two to 22 panels and can open from the left or right or even from the centre. The SF75eco can be designed as French doors for smaller apertures, manufactured with horizontal bars to mimic the appearance of traditional steel doors, incorporate a moveable post to create completely open corners or even manufactured as a curved (or faceted) set for homes with a sweeping design.
SUNFLEX UK works with a hand-selected network of distributors that cover the entire UK, from small local companies to larger installers who offer national coverage. For more information about the SF75eco and to find your nearest SUNFLEX UK distributor visit www.sunflexuk.co.uk.
Thermally efficient, secure and sleek in design — aluminium bifold doors offer the whole package when it comes to choosing performance glazing for your home
Marion worked with Ian Bramwell of Mole Architects to design a sustainable and careful renovation of the cottage, alongside a large side extension to replace two dated extensions from the past. The whole building now performs to near-Passivhaus standards and Marion and Sean’s hard work has preserved a building full of history for years to come, while adding their own contemporary stamp. “Restoration and conservation projects like this are hugely important and this home’s balance between a delicate treatment of the cottage and the striking new additions should act as an inspiration to many up and down the country,” says judge Michelle Guy. AWARDS 2022 HOMEOWNERS Sean and Marion King ARCHITECT Mole Architects LOCATION Huntingdonshire PROJECT Renovation/extension BUILD COST £1.33million
Paul and Sonny Shepherd
ARCHITECT Lovingly Engineered Architecture Practice: LEAP
LOCATION Lanchester, County Durham
PROJECT EnerPHit Plus barn conversion
Paul and Sonny set out to convert a stone barn into a low-energy one-and-a-half storey home but have achieved so much more than that. Their commitment to sustainability has far surpassed required Building Regulations for such homes and, thanks to the design by Lovingly Engineered Architecture Practice: LEAP, their home has been certified
EnerPHit Plus (meaning the building generates more energy than it requires). At every step of the way ecology, whole-life carbon and energy efficiency were directly at the forefront, from the materials and structure to the solar panels. This Zero Carbon-rated home should act as a blueprint for those looking to rejuvenate brownfield plots and derelict buildings around the UK.
These custom build homes in Oxfordshire are leading the way in sustainability — during construction and for years to come
HOUSEHOLDS 25 houses: nine affordable, 16 private (12 custom build)
LOCATION Southmoor, Oxfordshire
BUILD TIME Spring 2019 to Spring 2022 (build times extended due to lockdowns)
SIZE OF COMPLETED HOUSES
60m2 to 300m2
WORDS Alison Wall PHOTOGRAPHY Graham Gaunt
Deep in the heart of the Oxfordshire countryside lies a small development, Springfield Meadows, that could pave the way for anyone considering creating their own eco home, even if the self-build route isn’t for them.
Built by Greencore Construction, the eight-acre site comprises 25 new homes, of which 12 are custom built — meaning that the owners purchased a shovel-ready plot, complete with the all-important planning permission and an in-house design team and architect ready to customise the company’s designs.
And given the freedom to make their mark, the homeowners approached the task with gusto.
“I don’t think any house has the original footprint it was supposed to — they’ve all been tweaked and changed,” says Greencore’s James Pritchett. “For the internal layouts, we tried to give homeowners two or three options, and again everyone tended to go off piste! But we gave them the option to do that, and it wasn’t a problem for us.” There’s little uniformity on the exterior finishes either. Some people have chosen Siberian larch, others English larch, poplar or Kebony; some houses are painted, others not, while roofs are a mix of pitched and flat.
Custom build is a popular concept, but what makes this site all the more remarkable is its green credentials: the homes themselves perform better than Passivhaus, the rural site includes a pond, orchard and wildflower meadow and there’s even a car club that allows residents the use of one of two EVs (in addition to their own cars).
“A lot of developers – probably all – have a negative impact when they build something. We wanted to have a positive impact on the planet and the environment,” says James. “We set out to create the most sustainable development in the country and to do something innovative. We were determined to show the mainstream housebuilders that we can be building to zero carbon now.”
Where the houses really score is in their construction, using 90% less carbon emissions than a standard UK home of the same size
“We set out to create the most sustainable development in the country”
“What really struck me about this project when I visited the site was the company’s genuine commitment and enthusiasm to building highly sustainable homes, some of which are carbon negative, which is exciting and trailblazing in equal measure,” she says. “Not only should homeowners take note of this remarkable site, but housing developers too — this project illustrates how building sustainably can be done. It sets the blueprint for building eco homes now, and in the future.”
during the build process, which by most measures is an energyhungry process: just think of all that extraction, processing and transporting of building materials as well as the construction itself. So rather than brick and block or concrete, the houses have been built using a timber frame and timber walls pre-fabricated in a nearby factory. The closed timber frame panels were then insulated with lime-hemp and wood fibre insulation.
As well as producing super-insulated walls, the off-site production process helped speed up the build process. “The walls are precision built, with tolerances of less than one millimetre, which meant that construction could be quick and accurate — the superstructure of the houses was up in two weeks,” says James.
Back on site, the result is a cluster of carbon neutral (otherwise known as zero carbon) houses — this means that during their lifetime, energy consumption will be net zero, thanks to the solar PV panels on the roofs and connection to green electricity suppliers. Some of the houses are actually carbon negative, which means they will generate more energy than will be used in their construction and use.
“These houses sequester more carbon than they ever emit during the construction phase. To do this we use a lot of biobased materials, natural wood fibre and hemp that all lock up carbon during photosynthesis,” explains James.
Wherever you look on site, there’s evidence of this careful carbon balancing act: the clay tiles on some roofs, for example, are among
the most carbon intensive materials on Springfield Meadow but their carbon footprint is offset by the bio materials used in the build that lock up carbon. Plus, the solar panels are embedded into the roof, so fewer clay tiles are needed: a saving in both energy and costs.
Some aspects of this carbon neutral approach are surprising. Take heat retention: the homeowners don’t need air source heat pumps (ASHPs), as the heating requirement is so low that it does not justify the cost of installation — a simple underfloor direct heating system suffices.
A few cautious owners have opted for ASHPs, and around one-third have installed solar batteries, too. Cooking is via induction or halogen hobs (as you’d expect there’s no gas on site) and rainwater harvesting allows for plenty of water for keen gardeners.
MVHR systems in all the houses pump in clean fresh air and expel stale air, with some homeowners reporting a blunting of their hay fever symptoms.
Many, if not all, of these measures will be familiar to selfbuilders keen to reduce their carbon footprint. But is there a take-home message from this project that other people can learn from?
There is: and the answer comes down to using timber and natural materials. “If you are using a timber frame structure and use as many bio-based materials as possible you can do a really good job of offsetting your carbon,” concludes James.
With just 25 homes, the site sits comfortably in its rural Oxfordshire setting.
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taking place at our Self Build Academy at the Show Centre in St Neots, Cambridgeshire. Catering to all experience levels of self-builder, workshops are free and are designed to help you bring your self-build project to fruition. Advance booking required via our website www.potton. co.uk/self-build-academy/workshops
● ASK THE EXPERTS — SATURDAY 14TH JANUARY
If you already have a plot of land, then this session is a must have for you. Our experts will be on hand to talk through finance, budgets, the planning process, designing your home and managing your build.
● MANAGING YOUR SELF-BUILD — FRIDAY 10TH FEBRUARY
This workshop will guide you on the role of a project manager, planning and build quality.
Join us for our open day on Saturday 7th January to welcome in the New Year with a glass of fizz and celebratory cakes. Take a tour of our fully furnished show homes and find inspiration for your design, or seek advice on your building plot or project.
No matter what stage you’re at in your self-build journey, Potton can help. We’ll introduce you to what we do – we’ve been helping self-builders create their dream homes since 1964 – and tell you a little about our business. You’re invited to attend our presentation, or simply pop in to find out more about self-build. There’s no need to book.
● PLANNING APPROVED: TAKING THE NEXT STEPS — SATURDAY 18TH FEBRUARY
For you, if you’ve secured planning permission or are close to planning approval.
● BUILDING AN ENERGY EFFICIENT HOME — FRIDAY 3RD MARCH
Discover how building regulations are changing to address the need to conserve energy.
● INTRODUCTION TO SELF BUILD – FRIDAY 17TH MARCH
Key topics include finding land, design, planning permission and building a timber frame home.
We also organise live build events and webinars throughout the year so you can see a project in action, learn more about Building Regs and discover how the self-build process works. These are advertised on our website at: www.potton. co.uk/self-build-academy.
For more information Visit Potton Self Build Academy and Show Centre, Mill Lane, Little Paxton, St Neots PE19 6EF; email sales@potton.co.uk or call 01767 676400
Stephen and Helen Surtees
ARCHITECT Thread Architects
LOCATION Tickhill, Doncaster
PROJECT Contemporary self-build BUILD COST £680,000
This new house was built to replace a rather boring 1970s bungalow that once stood on the site and is something of a masterclass in how to be both sympathetic and creative when it comes to house design.
Keen to acknowledge the scale and proportions of the neighbouring properties in this conservation area, the owners and architect worked with a pared-back palette of external materials that reflected the local area, at the same time as ensuring the new home made its presence known.
Internally, the spaces are open and bright and really demonstrate how to approach open-plan design well, incorporating clever ways of dividing the spaces and zoning them. “The expanses of glazing and multi-levelled landscaping scheme at the rear come as a delightful surprise,” remarks judge Natasha Brinsmead. “Impressively this house was a lockdown project — starting in March 2020 yet still completed in an impressive 17 months.”
IMAGE: FOTO HAUS
Jane and Tim Trounce
ARCHITECT
Designscape Architects
LOCATION Bath
PROJECT Contemporary self-build
BUILD COST Undisclosed
Jane and Tim battled everything from a steep sloping plot, materials shortages (due to Covid), poor workmanship, their building contractor walking off site, and their cladding company disappearing with a sizable chunk of their budget. But a new team was brought in and the resulting stylish self-build is testament to their tenacity and hard work. Their
new home will be the envy of many, with its unending views across the Avon valley, finely crafted interiors and eco credentials. Their self-build journey should be an inspiration for those currently undergoing difficult projects — proof that there is a light, contemporary home at the end of the self-build tunnel.
IMAGE: MEGAN TAYLOR
Russell and Madalina Woolley
ARCHITECT George & James Architects
LOCATION London
PROJECT Renovation
BUILD COST £102,000
Russell and Madalina’s Victorian home had already been extended to include a granny annexe on the other side of an internal courtyard, so remodelling this home for their growing family required working within the existing dimensions. When they saw the dark, warren-like layout on the lower floor, they could see it would be relatively easy to remove an internal wall to bring the home into the 21st century. “The internal re-fit is clean and well executed, with solid details which elevate the space, including pocket doors into the foyer and a wall of banquette seating with built-in storage in the dining area,” says judge Hugh Metcalf. The space revolves around the courtyard, the star of the show, bringing light into the rooms.
ARCHITECT Self-designed
LOCATION Maldon
PROJECT 16th-century barn conversion
BUILD COST £450,000
David’s barn renovation project is a complete transformation, from derelict
barn to cosy home. When David bought the plot, he was presented with some approved architect’s drawings, but it didn’t fit his vision for the house. David pushed ahead getting permission for his own adaptations, using his experience as a joiner for historical buildings to get the job done. He project managed a team of local trades, and made the smart decision to erect cover over the entire build at the start, ensuring the
David and Lisa Mason
ARCHITECT Sheldon Peever Architects
LOCATION St Albans
PROJECT Small extension to end of terrace house
BUILD COST £210,000
David and Lisa were living with a dark and dingy basement kitchen with disconnected rooms and no connection with the garden before they set out to add two small extensions which delicately transform the whole floor. One replaced a conservatory at the rear of the basement, while the second – a thin strip to the side of the property –has been fitted with a rooflight which lets sun bathe the interiors from every angle. The result: a new space for socialising, crafted using beautiful detailing and a keen eye for design.
team could work no matter the weather. “The barn itself has been respectfully restored, with new additions matching the feel of the building,” says judge Hugh Metcalf. “Many of the original beams were numbered, taken out, cleaned and replaced, while additions like skylights in the mezzanine bedrooms have seen beams thoughtfully placed, as if these glazed elements have always been a part of the design.”
LOCATION Gloucestershire
PROJECT Extension to stone cottage BUILD COST £200,000
This house has been sensitively restored and planned down to the letter for family life. “Kirstin was heavily
involved in the project, from design to completion, and spent a huge amount of time ensuring it suited not just her family’s lifestyle, but also the period of the house and the pretty area it sits in,” says judge Natasha Brinsmead.
“The house required completely stripping back before any work could even begin and the extension is both a nod to the original building as well as standing out as a newer addition.”
Internally, space has been maximised in some really ingenious ways — the mezzanine level in the ground floor master bedroom features a sunken bed to provide extra head height, while space has even been found for the top floor bedroom to have a sweet en suite with a deep, Japanese-style bathtub.
In short, the house is something of a tardis thanks to Kirstin’s array of clever design ideas.
David
and Sue MansfieldARCHITECT Architecture:m LOCATION Cheshire
PROJECT Eco barn conversion and extension
BUILD COST £500,000
Having lived on their lane for 40 years, the Mansfields didn’t want to move away, but felt their country house was too much for the two of them once their children had left home. So they turned their eye towards the redundant barn/ outbuilding, which was being used for extra storage. David and Sue were determined to create a new home which was eco friendly and efficient — and the project delivers in spades. A recent garden room addition (with kitchenette) completes the project, providing flexible spaces for their extended family to stay as well as a relaxing spot to enjoy views of the garden.
Self-building your own home is an adventure of a lifetime. Here’s why it could be the right journey for you…
The idea of self-building your own home can sound daunting. Finding the right (affordable) plot, sticking to a budget, economic uncertainty and the planning process can all test the patience and stamina of the would-be self-builder. But there are many reasons that spur people on to take up the challenge, and being daunted by the prospect and possible bumps along the way don’t tend to dissuade them.
The chance to build and live in a welldesigned, energy-efficient home, focused on your needs that has function, flair and form in equal measure is often what captures the imagination of many who self-build.
And it’s not just a path those with a large budget can take, so don’t rule yourself out of this route if you’ve a more modest one. The same goes for experience. If you can bring tenacity, flexibility, patience, passion and vision to the project then you’ll be on your way. Entrusting and surrounding yourself with a fantastic team is also key to success.
It’s what the self-builders who grace the pages of HB&R all share in common. After all, there’s no denying that taking on a self-build will demand much of your time, money and energy so resilience is key! But it’s worth it, and here’s why it could be the right route for you in 2023…
‘We had been looking for ages,’; ‘We just couldn’t find what we wanted,’ — these are very familiar sentiments from self-builders who have shared their stories with HB&R over the years. When you look to move it tends to be because the home you currently live in no longer suits you or your family’s lifestyle, is too small (or too big), or is no longer in a location you want or need it to be in.
The houses you’re seeing at the top of your budget may need work, which would stretch your costs too far, or there’s just nothing built in your ideal spot that suits. And these reasons can be the catalyst to change tack. In fact, there are many self-builders who didn’t even think about building their own home until what they wanted just didn’t exist — or exist within budget!
Building your own home will give you the scope to design your vision. You might want all the bedrooms downstairs with living areas upstairs to take in a view. You can choose to orientate the house so it’s south-facing to take advantage of solar gain; to introduce sculptural shapes — the choice, to a degree, is yours. It will be designed and built for you.
Many self-build homes aren’t cheap — there’s the plot plus the build to consider. But building your own home often means you get more for your budget versus what’s on the market. And there’s added value in building a one-off home, too — it’s estimated that a self-build could generate around a 25% profit, if you do go on to sell.
The basic formula to remember is build cost + plot cost + contingency totals less than the value of your finished house. If it’s a home for life then you may not have this formula at the forefront of your mind, but it can help you to have a target to curb huge overspend. Choosing a higher spec is the most common reason self-builders go over budget.*
This five-bed family home, designed by London Atelier, was built on the site of a bungalow. Insulation levels exceed Building Regs. It’s bursting with architectural shapes and natural light.
In summer 2022 the government launched a Help to Build equity loan scheme to encourage people to custom and self-build in England. You can apply for an equity loan, which is interest free for five years, of between 5% and 20% of the total estimated land and build cost (up to 40% in London).
The idea is to encourage more people to self-build, making it a more realistic option, particularly for those with lower deposits. There are some caveats to consider: You’ll need at least a 5% deposit; Once the equity loan has been approved, you get up to three years to buy the land and build your home; and you must use a self-build
When you take on a self-build you are in the driving seat when it comes to choosing your build structure, heating and cooling and automation, for example. Yes, budget, planning constraints and the plot might steer you but on the whole you can drive the direction, while also taking advice from architects, engineers and builders. And if you like the idea of trailblazing new technologies and products then the selfbuild route enables you to embrace it.
According to NaCSBA’s Custom and Self Build Market Report 2022, over half of self-builders use Modern Methods of Construction (MMC) – like ICF or SIPs – and one in two includes a sustainable heat source, such as a heat pump, in their project, which, says NaCSBA, makes the self-build sector “a trailblazer for these two important areas of construction.”
mortgage lender who is registered to take part in the scheme. Your chosen lender will then release funds to you at different stages of the build. On completion, the government will pay your mortgage lender the equity loan amount offered to you — your self-build mortgage will then switch to a repayment mortgage. You’ll only start to pay interest on the equity loan from year six.
You can spend up to £600,000, but this total must include the cost of the land, if you don’t already own it, and no more than £400,000 on the cost to build your home. According to NaCSBA’s 2022 report, an average plot cost £253,000 and an average build budget was £312,000 so, in this case, you’d be looking at total costs of £565,000, less than the Help to Build threshold.
“Nowadays everything is about a fabric first approach where insulation and airtightness are key,” says architect Piers Taylor. Implementing an energy-efficient approach from the start is doable when self-building. Many self-builders go above and beyond Building Regulations targets for efficiency, prioritising airtightness levels and insulation, some to near or at Passivhaus levels, to form a comfortable, energy-efficient home that, complemented by design principles, will all pay dividends a few years down the line. After all, low energy usage will lower the overall energy consumption so bills will be reduced.
Tony and Emma Cooke applied these principles when building their oak frame home: “We wanted our house to be sustainable to build, and then to live in afterwards. We went for new, thicker high spec SIPs [structural insulated panels], which meant we didn’t need to install a heat pump; instead, we have two woodburners that heat the whole house and a mechanical ventilation with heat recovery system that means we get fresh air every three hours. All our money went into the fabric of the building, the insulation and the natural materials.”
The homeowner of this super insulated self-build approached 2020 Architects with a vision to build an eco-friendly home that engaged with the landscape.
Planning renewables from the outset means you can accommodate a more selfsufficient lifestyle, which means less reliance on getting power from the grid — and ultimately running costs. How you design your home will
As a self-builder you can take on the mantle of sharing your designs and visions with your architect and builder. Once they know your budget and what you’re after, they need to work on it, to deliver what it is you desire. If an architect’s designs are way out of your budget, then it might be time to find someone else. You want design autonomy — it’s your home after all, and you’re the client, too so it needs to deliver. Don’t be afraid to push back and ask questions and be a stickler for detail. “Don’t compromise on your design or the details,” says selfbuilder Ed Humphreys, who built a contemporary home with partner Emily. “No one cares as much about your build as you do.”
have a bearing on how successful your house is at being self-sufficient and that will start with the fabric of the build. A poorly insulated home won’t reap the benefits of renewables so the envelope should be the first focus area. Then you can consider which renewable energy systems you want to include in your home to run the
heating, hot water and electricity — solar panels; air source or ground source heat pump and/or a biomass boiler are all solutions. Rainwater harvesting, green (sedum) roofs and growing your own all contribute to being self-sufficient, too, so planning in space for this can also be considered at the design stage.
Reducing plastic consumption and carbon emissions can be achieved by self-building. Rowan and Ally Adams – whose new home features on page 156 this month – had a complete lifestyle rethink and were conscious about their green footprint, having no car and reducing their use of plastics. Key decisions about their build were based on their eco-friendly and sustainable wants and needs.
Often, the ripest sites for a new home already house one and it’s not always obvious that knocking down and rebuilding is an option. But sometimes the renovation work involved to produce a house that you’d like means either half the existing house has to come down or you make huge compromises on what you’ll end up with.
This was the case for Ellie Inskip who bought a house she thought she could renovate but “despite the amounts we were talking about, we still weren’t going to get the house we were hoping for. Our architect Paul Gallie [of PMG Architecture] jokingly suggested that we knock down and start
again, which at first was completely against the grain but in fact, we were knocking half the house down anyway because it needed so much renovation work! We decided to go for it and Paul came up with a beautiful plan — he completely got what we wanted.”
Not only do you get what you want if you start again, but you benefit from being able to reclaim the majority of the VAT you’ve paid out during the course of a new build. This VAT exemption extends further than you might think, and you can reclaim correctly paid VAT on everything from the material used to build the house down to fitted furniture such as the kitchen (but not appliances) and flooring (but not carpet). You must keep and submit the original VAT invoices to HMRC to be eligible to claim back VAT on your build.
Built predominantly from brick and timber, this contemporary home was built on the site of the homeowner’s original bungalow. It’s ample glazing has been designed to take in the views.
If taking on a selfbuild is a once in a lifetime opportunity then you want your new home to cater for you as the years go by. And building your own home gives you the chance to do that; to create a space that will evolve with you, that will adapt.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing and we can’t foresee or predict everything, but there are ways to consider certain elements and adaptations that can contribute to building a comfortable home for now and in the future, whether you’re a young family or retirees.
A room downstairs next to a shower room that can flex as you need it — an office now, a downstairs bedroom in the future; space for a lift shaft to be installed if it’s an expense that will tip you over budget now; level thresholds between rooms inside and out; sturdy walls to attach grab rails to in future. Thoughtful and subtle design details can make all the difference in the long-term.
This steel-framed, brick and timber-clad self-build needed to work as a family home but boast eco-credentials, too.
Solar PV panels, whole house ventilation and sedum roofs all contribute to the
Taking on courses or attending lectures or workshops before starting a project can really help you understand different elements of a build. Whether it’s gaining confidence to draw up your plans by learning how to use a 3D planning tool or understanding lighting design to bring ideas to the scheme — there are many skills you can learn by seeking advice from professionals who curate content aimed at self-builders.
Helen Day and her husband Vic built an oak frame home
house’s sustainable accomplishments, while the central kitchen / living / dining space is the heart of the home for the family, with views and a connection out to the garden.
and, while work was being done, lived in a caravan onsite. After contaminated soil was removed and replaced, they had a rather barren-looking garden to bring back to life. “I had no clue where to start so I thought while we were stuck in a caravan during the build I would do a course so I would be ready for when the house was finished,” says Helen. The course by Successful Garden Design “went through everything from measuring your plot to landscaping and planting. We did everything ourselves so doing the course made [the garden project] so much simpler,” continues Helen.
When taking on a self-build you can be as hands-on or off as you like (budget depending). You of course have the option to project manage the build, but it’s a full-on role that shouldn’t be underestimated so embrace it if you take it on! And to keep costs down, some self-builders choose to DIY, but that’s not the majority. You can choose to hand the reins over to a PM or contractor, who will take responsibility for everyday decisions and site management. But whether you’re hands-on or hands-off, “Get involved with the project as much as time will allow,” advise self-builders Rowan and Ally Adams. It’s important to schedule regular catch-ups with the onsite team to ensure everyone is on track, to answer questions and help sort any problems or issues when they arise. Ellie Inskip had weekly meetings with her main contractor (who was the PM) and architect to go through what was happening and iron out any issues, which worked really well. But all projects are different — you have the option and choice to decide what will work best for you, your build and your team.
Tadelakt, sometimes referred to as Moroccan plaster, is a traditional form of plasterwork indigenous to the Marrakech region of Morocco, that can be used as a stylish wall covering and alternative to tiles in bathrooms. It also creates a solid, waterproof surface that is seamless, has no grout lines and is resistant to mould, which perhaps explains why it’s become so popular in contemporary, minimalist homes.
Here we explain more about its unique qualities and all you need to know before creating this look in your own home.
It is a waterproof and decorative plaster with a distinct, mottled appearance. As a natural, limebased plaster, tadelakt can be tinted with up to 10% weight of pigments, meaning it can be tinted to almost any colour and as a result it can be used to create
colourful surfaces that don’t require painting. Tadelakt has a subtle but luxurious sheen that produces a finish that’s reminiscent of natural stone.
Tadelakt is applied in several coats and is finished using a special technique. “The final stage of polishing is done by using a plastic trowel, Japanese trowel or a traditional Moroccan application, which requires a special polishing stone,” explains Ian Kozlowski, founder of Decor Tadelakt.
The word ‘tadelakt’ is derived from Arabic and it means to knead or rub in and this provides a clue to
The mottled
where the essence of this process lies because it’s the final stage of application that makes the resulting surface waterproof. “This lime plaster is made waterproof through both its inherent properties and its application technique,” says Valentin Tatanov, manager at Tadelakt London. “The black olive soap that is massaged into the surface of the product chemically reacts with the lime to form calcium stearate, which is hydrophobic, so it repels water.”
Tadelakt is commonly used in bathroom design, thanks to the
The plasterwork technique known as tadelakt is gracing the walls of more and more homes. Here Hugh Metcalf explains the exotic appeal of this finish and how to achieve the look
texture of tadelakt has a raw beauty and the look of natural stone.
waterproof membrane that is created during the chemical reaction by the olive soap process. Tadelakt is suitable for use in shower enclosures and wet rooms. The seamless application also means that bespoke waterproof details can be easily created, such as shower niches.
The surface of tadelakt is waterand scratch-resistant, hard and durable. However, it’s not always recommended for use on floors.
“We recommend it for use only in areas where you will not wear hard shoes, as grit and small stones can easily scratch the surface,” says Valentin Tatanov.
There are other alternatives for flooring, such as microcement that offer a similar finish and which will fare better. Alternatively, tadelakt
walls are commonly paired with tiled floors.
While tadelakt is most often used for walls and ceilings, it also has wider applications across interiors and these include:
● Interior walls
● Kitchens
● Fireplaces
● Seats
● Shelves
Tadelakt is a fairly low-maintenance form of plasterwork and can be kept clean just by using water as the surface resists dirt and mould. “To keep the shower walls looking good, make sure that you squeegee them down after each shower,” explains Ian Kozlowski of Decor Tadelakt.
Tadelakt plasterwork on the walls and ceilings is a stunning complement to marble surfaces.
● Vanity units
● Washstands
● Baths, pools, spas, shower cubicles, wet rooms and steam rooms.
Tadelakt does require specialist application as not only does it need to look good, it needs to perform well by repelling water. However, that doesn’t mean it can’t be learned by a competent DIYer. “It’s quite an interesting technique to learn, which a lot of people these days are looking to experience,” says Valentin Tatanov.
If you do take on the job yourself, applying the plasterwork in two coats should help to reduce the chances of any cracks forming while it hardens. Small cracks during the installation can often be buffed out during the olive soap stage. However, if micro-surface cracks do form in the tadelakt, this usually won’t affect the waterproof quality of the plaster and can even enhance the texture, patina and character of the walls.
Price-wise, don’t expect to achieve a tadelakt finish for anything like what you’d pay for conventional plasterwork. It’s a relatively expensive finish, even compared to some premium-quality tiles. You can expect a starting price for wall installations, including supply and install, from £180/m².
For longer term care and to keep the tadelakt plaster looking its best, “regular recoating with soap solution ensures that the tadelakt stays in excellent condition for many years to come,” advises Valentin Tatanov. Avoid using regular bathroom cleaners on tadelakt, especially any that may contain bleach or harsh solvents, as this might destroy the waterproof membrane.
Good builders are a scarce commodity at present, says builder Andy Stevens — here’s how to make sure you attract the best team for your project
is while we are trying to run our business and build your houses. So the first few words we hear will dictate whether we will want to work for you. If you are polite and ask how we are and when suits to come and meet you, we’ll usually be more than happy to arrange a suitable time. Remember, if we are busy, we are able to choose who we work for.
stages of the preparation work for your build. These are the stages you could be at, and it is definitely worth explaining this to the contractors before they come so we know what to expect:
● Initial idea of the project, whether it’s an extension, refurbishment or new build
● First consultation with an architect/QS/builder
Even in the current climate, the best tradespeople are still incredibly busy. Some of us are still getting the same number of calls and enquiries that we were getting in the boom. It goes without saying: the cream always rises to the top. So how do you, as a potential client, make your job attractive to us trades? Believe it or not, there are many factors to consider before giving us a call. When contractors and trades are good, we get a lot of calls. This can be from potential clients, merchants, trades on the various jobs, existing clients, skip deliveries, material deliveries, concrete lorry, building inspectors… the list goes on! This
ANDY STEVENS
Is an awardwinning builder and broadcaster, and host of building podcast Build:It @andystevensTV
I firmly believe in all walks of life, ‘people buy people’, and it’s the same with us trades. There is nothing better than building a great relationship with a client as the build progresses. You are happy, we are happy and the job runs smoothly. It is also exciting for you seeing things develop so quickly, fully understanding what is happening and when. We also will go the extra mile with clients we get on with, perhaps doing bits of work without charging, putting in an extra bit of effort cleaning up each day and so on.
When we meet, you, the homeowner, could be at various
●Initial architect drawings
● Final architect drawings
●All necessary architect drawings/Building Regs drawings/structural calculations
● All required drawings and tender documents
An experienced builder will be able to give you an approximate cost for your build/renovation from an initial site meeting. But in order to give you an accurate price, they will need all the above documents.
I have always veered away from cost per square metre/foot for extensions and refurbishments, as in my opinion there are simply too many variants. To build a shell before fitting out can be priced roughly per square metre/foot, but not internally in my opinion.
Once you have the final architect’s drawings a rough price can be given but we need the structural calculations and Building Regs drawings to give a more accurate price. Not all jobs I’ve looked at over the years have full tender documents. In fact, I would say only approximately 15% have had everything ideally required. I fully understand instructing professionals to compile the full package is expensive. However, one thing I would add is that it is vital all contractors are pricing from the same documents like for like. Otherwise, you will be getting such different prices back, you won’t be able to compare.
It is pretty common for some tender documents to not have absolutely everything in detail. It is pretty difficult for any homeowner to know exactly how they want their build to be finished — how many sockets, exact floor finishes, profile of skirtings and architraves and so on. Therefore, be open with the contractors on this. We will either leave it blank or put a provisional sum in.
For electrics, I have always found it easier to price per point. For example, a set price for running the required cables, fitting the back box, second fixing the double socket including all materials and faceplate and testing could be £75 plus VAT. The same unit pricing could be for all electrical items such as switches, fuse spurs, oven point, extractor fans, pendants, downlighters and so on. When put into a spreadsheet with the correct formulas, it is very easy for the homeowner and builder to work together throughout the build adjusting this as they go.
One point worth noting is that, as busy and desired builders, on the first visit we will also be sussing you out as potential clients. Potentially, we could be working together for several months, maybe over a year on some builds. We want to enjoy coming to work and building a relationship with you. If we feel this won’t be possible
because of the way you talk to us, your unrealistic expectations, rudeness and so on, you won’t get a quote. Remember, putting these together and working out quotes, especially on bigger jobs, takes us a long time. We will only do this if we feel we want to work with you.
Some builders charge for these detailed quotes but not everyone does. Please bear this in mind before asking us to quote if you’re probably not going to use us.
Like any professionals, good people and companies will be booked up. With us trades, it is worth remembering that good ones are booked up, and for builders there can be a wait of at least six to 12 months. The relatively recent volatility of material prices in the industry may have slightly reduced these times but always ask when you first meet with builders
about their availability. There is no point in both parties chatting and meeting several times when start dates are a million miles apart!
Finally, how many quotes should you look for to compare? In my opinion, you should always look to get three. However, in this difficult market, if you find someone you really want to work with (perhaps they come highly recommended/ you’ve worked with them before/ they have brilliant references and so on) and if you’re happy with their price, book them! If you leave it too long, you may end up waiting even longer.
Even if your desired contractor is booked up for a while, I would advise to not go with a quote that seems very cheap and too good to be true. Trust me, as an experienced builder, there is generally a reason some of our competitors’ prices are too good to be true. My advice? Wait for your chosen contractor!
right
1Start off on the
foot when you first speak to your builder, perhaps suggesting a convenient time for you both for an initial site visit to prepare a quote.
2Let the contractor know what stage of preparation you are at — are you at the ideas stage or do you have full drawings and tender documents?
3When you first meet a builder, aim to build rapport — we won’t want to work with rude or unrealistic clients.
4It’s good practice to get three quotes, but if you have good reasons for favouring one contractor over the others, by all means book them in pronto.
5Be prepared to wait six to 12 months for good builders.
“If we are busy, we are able to choose who we work for”
Building Regulations Part M sets out standards for accessibility in buildings. Expert Paul Hymers explains what the contents of this document means for your self-build
Our own homes need to be suitable for us to carry on living in them as independently as we can for as long as we can. With one in five of the UK population now classed as living with a disability, Buildings Regulations Part M is an important part of our building control measures covering self-builds in England.
dwellings and has within it three separate categories, with growing scope of the sort of accessibility issues that need to be considered.
The categories
There are three categories under Building Regulations Part M, under which your self-build will have to meet certain requirements.
They are:
Is a chartered building engineer and has been a building control officer since 1984, sensitively retrofitting historic buildings through contemporary architecture.
what is building regulations part m? Building Regulations Part M focuses on access to and use of a building with regard to the ability to move around the building easily. This applies not only to wheelchair users and people with limited mobility, but also to anyone who regularly uses prams and other wheeled devices. It can be found in Approved Document M.
The access requirements for new homes were initially introduced to the Building Regulations more than 20 years ago, but in 2015 the guidance was split into two separate volumes (updates were published in 2016). The first, Volume 1, applies to new
● M4 (1) Category 1: Visitable dwellings
● M4 (2) Category 2: Accessible and adaptable dwellings
● M4 (3) Category 3: Wheelchair user dwellings
who decides which category will apply?
Although M4 (2) and (3) are euphemistically referred to as ‘optional standards’ it is in effect the local planning authority (LPA) that decides whether they will apply to your project or not.
Some councils may choose to apply this by local planning policy as percentages, by geography or demography. This approach to
the application of requirements through the planning system represented something of a departure from the usual theme of applying them solely by the work definition of the project.
If they don’t choose to apply either of the ‘optional’ higher categories, by default it is then mandatory to meet the first of these, M4 (1).
Even if you are only required to meet the visitable standard, it is worth considering how you can improve on it and make your selfbuild project a lifelong home.
What does compliance with M4(1) mean?
Compliance with Category 1 Visitable Dwellings M4 (1) means that reasonable provision should be made not only to gain access to but also the use of the dwelling and its facilities. It doesn’t apply to extensions or to any areas that are used solely for inspection, repair or maintenance such as plant rooms or attic spaces.
Access externally This is the least onerous of the set, applying to create access to the entrance level only but, as with all of them, it begins at the curtilage of the site (although this could extend beyond your individual plot if you were part of a larger building development) and covers the approach to the building’s main entrance, the front door. It means there has to be a 900mm minimum width to any path, steps or a ramp and that width must exist in addition alongside a driveway for access past a parked car. Ideally the path should be level but if it does form a slope or a ramp, gradients up to a maximum of 1:12 apply if it isn’t more than 5m long.
It isn’t necessary to have handrails to ramps in Category 1, to the relief of most architects. If the site is steeply sloping and needs steps, these too are acceptable but they do need a handrail you can grip on one side and an easy going pitch with individual risers between 75mm and 150mm high and goings of at least 280mm.
The entrance door should have a clear opening width of 775mm (most do by default) and an accessible threshold. Those uPVC front doors which had a raised sill were great for keeping water out but were not at all accessible. We have grown used to access thresholds now, but it still pays to have these served by a drainage gap or channel if not sheltered by a roof overhang or canopy.
For this category, the entrance hall/corridor width is an issue but one that is tied to the width of the internal doors. Effectively, internal doors to all the habitable rooms on the entrance level should be at least 750mm clear opening width (between doorstops) which makes
It has always been the case that rooms on other floors do not need to be accessible, but services and controls should be within the access zone of 450mm and 1,200mm above floor level.
This might be the most useful of all the requirements because it is often early on in our latter years that we struggle to reach the floor or high up. Having plugs at 450mm and light switches no more than 1,200mm above the soles of our feet makes a huge difference to how long we might independently live in our homes.
One of the last additions to be made
it impossible to use standard 762mm (30 inch) doors with doorstops.
The next standard door size up, being 826mm (or 838mm), means that your entrance hall/corridor only needs to be 900mm wide. It can be reduced to 750mm wide for radiator obstructions up to 2m long.
Do I need a cloakroom/ WC on the access level?
Part M has always required a WC on the access storey and it is this requirement that has meant every 21st-century self-build has a cloakroom/WC of given minimum proportions.
However, these proportions are not generous and have baffled everybody that was obliged to think of them as accessible. At least between 850mm or 900mm wide, a space of 750mm has to exist between the front face of the pan and the opposing wall (or radiator) and that’s it.
Pedestal basins are best avoided in favour of smaller wall hung ones. The door needs to open out and the scale means that wheelchair users are meant to transfer from the doorway onto the loo with the door remaining open. Keep in mind that these regulations are meant to be for visitors...
was for electrical consumer units to be added to the list of fittings that should be accessible (between 1,3501,450mm above finished floor level), so these can no longer be tucked away or placed up high out of sight.
“Even if you are only required to meet the visitable standard, it is worth considering how you can improve on it and make your self-build project a lifelong home”
What are the additional measures of Category 2?
A grade up from the M4 (1) standard, the aim here is to create a home that has more potential for wheelchair users and greater scope for adaptation in future.
The focus on approach to the dwelling is aimed at level or ramped access, but if that isn’t possible at the front door because of site gradients, a side or rear entrance can be adopted. The doorway should be free from local obstructions such as garden landscaping. Gates along the route need a clear opening of at least 850mm and a nib to the leading edge of at least 300mm, so they can’t have the latch up against a perpendicular wall or fence that would make it difficult to reach. The surface of the parking area must be suitable, so no loose gravel driveways that are the equivalent of tank traps for wheelchair users.
Inside, the layout for hallway and door widths is much the same as M4 (1) but with the addition again of the minimum 300mm nib to cornered recesses and the leading edge of doorways.
The entrance storey should be level throughout and step-free but
the stairs between floors should be at least 850mm wide — otherwise these can follow the standard geometry (in Part K) for dwellings.
This standard reaches into the rooms themselves, with at least 1,200mm of clear space required in front of kitchen units and appliances and window glazing starting below 850mm of floor level so wheelchair users can see out.
Bedrooms need to be sized with at least a 750mm wide access route from the door to the window and at least one double bedroom with 750mm or more to the sides and bottom of the bed, and in at least one of the single bedrooms to one side of the bed. So floor plans need to show bedroom furniture layouts and clear space dimensions.
What are the additional measures of Category 3?
This is the standard that deals comprehensively with wheelchair user access inside dwellings. To do this, the floor plans need to be marked up with furniture at a scale of a least 1:100 but ideally 1:50.
The Approved Document Appendix D has a furniture schedule of standardised sizes for this purpose, so there’s no provision
for a minimalist’s contemporary lifestyle to be represented here with just an inflatable armchair and somewhere to plug in your smartphone.
Aside from the furniture, clear access zones (turning circles) typically of 1,500mm diameter need to be present, but the level of detail required in this category goes beyond most architectural plans and includes the recess depth of letter cages (150mm) and a requirement for built-in storage
In bathrooms the walls and any ductwork need to be strong enough for grab rails to be added to in the future, so lining stud partitions with 18mm thick plywood or OSB before plasterboarding is essential.
As for the cloakroom WC at access level, in homes of three bedrooms or more, this facility needs to be bigger to include a level access shower provision. (Example internal minimum sizes of 1,450mm wide by 1,800mm depth for this room are given in the Approved Document M1.)
areas based on bedroom quantity.
Where headroom is restricted between 900mm and 1,500mm high, 50% of the area can be used, but if it’s less than 900mm headroom, it can’t count towards the storage areas. They are not onerous in any case — a typical four bedroom house needs only three square metres.
Homes in this category do not have to have a wheelchair lift installed but they do need to have potential for one to be easily installed (without structural alteration).
Kitchen layout plans are essential with minimum worktop lengths and height-adjustable or lowerable sections with open leg room below (not base cupboards) as well as accessible taps and fittings.
Bedrooms become larger, with 1m wide free space around a double bed and 1.2m x 1.2m square turning areas beyond the door swing and in the corner of the room and strengthened ceilings capable of supporting hoists for bed transfer.
It goes without saying that in the M4 (3) category a wheelchair user can actually go inside the cloakroom/WC and close the door behind them so they are sized to be at least 2.2 m deep by 1,650mm wide internally.
WHAT PROVISIONS DO I NEED TO BUILD INTO A BATHROOM AND A CLOAKROOM?
“Category 3 is the standard that deals with wheelchair user access inside dwellings”
The National Custom & Self Build Association campaigns to remove the barriers to more people in the UK building their own home. Look out for the NaCSBA stamp and be assured that you’ll be working with a company you can trust.
l All members are committed to working with self- builders in a fair and transparent manner
l All members are funding the growth of the sector so more people can have an individual home
l All members are covered by NaCSBA’s consumer Code of Practice – to protect you if things go wrong
Ideal for kitchens, this Dijon Blend tumbled limestone, from Mandarin Stone, is hardwearing, warm in appearance and ideal for underfloor heating. £33.60/m2
This classic Italian marble Calacatta Vagli Rosata, by Cullifords, is durable and luxurious with an elegant pale finish. From £1,800/m2.
Non-slip and rugged, these Mahal Grey slate tiles, from Walls & Floors, have a beautiful finish that makes them perfect for halls and boot rooms. £36.95/m2
There’s a type of stone flooring to suit every area – and budget
This hard-wearing Marshalls stone from Jewson is easy to maintain so it’s the natural choice for high-traffic zones as well as being well suited to outdoor areas. £33.59/m2
Being resistant to heat, stains, scratches and water makes Lundhs Blue stone suitable for kitchen-dining floors and worktops. Available from Lundhs Real Stone, from £680/m2.
Original Style’s Levantine unfilled and tumbled travertine combines a rustic charm with a natural warmth of colour, making it suitable for any room in the home. £50/m2
If you’re looking to get a price for a job, read quantity surveyor Tim Phillip’s expert advice on these common pricing terms — and discover why quotes may be your best bet
TIM PHILLIPS
Is a quantity surveyor with almost 30 years of experience across the commercial and residential construction sector.
@timphillips71
The terms ‘quote’ and ‘estimate’ can easily be mistaken for the same thing. However, their meanings are actually very different and proceeding on the basis of one or the other will almost certainly be met with very different outcomes.
A quote should provide you with a fixed final cost for your project. It should be in writing and set out all the detailed requirements in full, with pricing ideally broken down against each element. Some quotes will include a timeline. Quotes are mostly stated to be valid for a specified time, as your builder/ tradesperson will be bound by the price quoted and material and labour prices are subject to change. For a quote to be binding, it must be accepted within the specified timescale, otherwise the quote will need to be renewed.
An estimate is a rough approximation of what the total project might cost. It should be in writing and will usually include a disclaimer to make clear the final cost is subject to change once more details are known. It will typically include just a high level statement of requirements. The cost will be an estimation based on the builder or tradesperson’s experience of similar work undertaken. Experienced builders and tradespeople should generally be expected to estimate within, say, 10 to 20% of the final cost, but as the pricing is not done in detail, the potential for unforeseen elements to arise increases, which may further impact the final cost.
If you are provided with a quote, you should expect to pay exactly that sum for the finished project.
An estimate is a more general
assessment of what the end cost might be. It is rare for an estimate to match the final cost of a job as the initial pricing will not have been detailed enough. A quote is considered binding (subject to the issues we’ll look at below) whereas estimates are not. Estimates are very useful at the outset of a project to get rough figures to establish if it’s financially viable. However, you should always aim to secure final quotes prior to proceeding with building work.
Both quotes and estimates can include references to ‘provisional sums’ and ‘prime cost’ sums. These terms are used where elements of a project are not yet finalised but a cost needs to be allocated to compile the quote or estimate.
Provisional sums are used where general areas of a project have
not yet been fully designed. For example, an extension project may not have a kitchen design completed, but you know whether it will be in the region of say £10k or £35k and this figure will be inserted. The provisional sum will not be a binding cost if used in a quote and will be replaced with the actual cost when known.
Prime costs sums (PC sums) are used where a specific item has been identified for pricing but the specification has not yet been decided. For example, a quote may include a PC sum for tiling, but the actual tiles have not yet been chosen. Again, the final cost will include the actual price of the tiles.
Provisional sums and PC sums are often necessary in compiling both quotes and estimates, as very few projects (unless at the smallest end of the scale) are capable of being specified to the very last detail. They are useful tools in enabling a quote or estimate to be compiled. Where used in a quote, they enable the guaranteed costs to be identified and help identify costs which are yet to be fixed.
It goes without saying that the lower the amount of provisional and PC sums, the closer you will get to a guaranteed final cost, so if budgets are tight, it is well worth investing the time and energy in nailing down all of the variables in your project.
If you provide insufficient detail to a builder/tradesperson, they will be unable to accurately price the works and therefore commit
themselves to a final fixed quote, so an estimate is the only option. Alternatively, you may provide full details of the works, but the project may be of a type where unknown issues are more likely to arise.
Renovations are a good example of this, particularly with older buildings, as sometimes you simply can’t tell what you are going to find until you actually open up a wall, ceiling or floor.
It may also be the case that the builder/tradesperson simply doesn’t have the time to spend on establishing the finer details and obtaining quotes for materials in order to provide a quote. They have no guarantee they will be selected for the work, so if they are
and won’t be running the risk of under-pricing the job, which can lead to all kinds of issues.
The key to achieving a quote is the level of detail you are able to provide. This includes any plans/ drawings, specification of works and finalising as many of the design and finishing details as possible for your build.
If you are contemplating an extension, loft conversion or any major building works, it’s a good idea to engage a QS (quantity surveyor) to produce a BQ (bill of quantities) to enable your builders and tradespeople to provide you
“The key to achieving a quote is the level of detail you are able to provide. This includes any plans/drawings, specification of works and finalising as many of the details as possible”
already busy, an estimate may be the best they can offer.
A quote should give you the greatest cost certainty for your project. It means the builder/ tradesperson you have engaged has taken a thorough look at the requirements and broken down all the costs involved. When the works are completed, you should pay the amount stated in the quote. A quote will be equally beneficial for the person undertaking the project as they will have taken the time to accurately assess the work required and the costs involved
It’s essential to make yourself available to your builder/ tradesperson so that any issues can be dealt with quickly should they arise. Try to meet regularly to review costs as the project progresses. If your builder encounters unforeseen issues which will impact cost and you are aware of it early on, then you’ll
have the opportunity to adjust the remaining works to keep the overall project within budget. Discussing cost issues can be uncomfortable for all parties, so try to develop an open relationship with your builder/tradesperson to encourage early warnings if things are not going as expected.
with quotes against a detailed single specification.
The total presented on a quote is the final amount you’ll pay at the end of the job. However, there are factors that can change this, for example, if during the works you decide to alter some of the items which were originally priced. Your builder/tradesperson cannot be held to their quote if you have changed the scope.
The best approach would be to discuss your new requirements as early as possible and seek a new quote for the additional work. Failing to do this can lead to disputes and unexpected costs at the end of the works.
Even if you do not change the specification at all, your builder may encounter issues which mean unforeseen work will need to be added to the quote. This can be problematic if disputes arise as to what was reasonably foreseeable by an experienced builder/ tradesperson and should have been included at the outset.
SIMON RIX
Is a professional planning consultant. He was a council officer and later an elected councillor before setting up Planix.
UK Planning Consultants Ltd.
Lotsofpeople,especiallyin thesefinanciallyuncertain times,willwanttoconsider extendingtheirhomesrather thanmoving.Thismaybetogain somemuch-neededextraspace forthemselves,toimprovethe valueoftheirhome,orboth.Before youembarkonsuchaproject,it’s worthdoingyourhomeworkon matterssuchasplanningconsent andPermittedDevelopment(PD) rights.Herearetheanswersto someofthemostpopularquestions wegetaskedaboutthissubject.
Theanswertothisquestionis definitelyyesifyouwantaside extensionofmorethanonestorey. Evenasingle-storeysideextension willrequireplanningconsentifthe houseiswithinadesignatedarea, whichincludesaNationalPark, theBroads,anareaofoutstanding naturalbeauty,aconservation area,orifit’swithinaWorld HeritageSitezone.Anyextension withintheseareasthatincludes externalcladdingwillalsoneed planningpermission.Youmayalso liveinanareathatiscoveredby what’scalledanArticle4Directive, whichlimitsorremovesyour righttobuildanextension withoutplanningconsent.If so,youwillneedtoputina planningapplication.
In fact, wherever you live, if you want an extension that stretches beyond a side elevation of your house and if that side elevation fronts onto a highway, you’ll need to submit a
planning application. You’d also need planning permission if your extensionwouldprotrudeforward of the principal elevation of your house. The principal elevation of your house may be obvious, but often this is a grey area, so think about getting professional advice on this if you are in any doubt.
You will also need planning consent if your home is a flat or a maisonette, if it’s a converted house or a house that was originally created through a PD right, either as a change of use or a completely new dwelling, or if it was consented with a planning condition that specifically prevents the type of extension you want.
Yes, all extensions will need to get Building Regs approval once complete.
A planning application will also be needed if your extension would result in more than half the area of land around your ‘original house’ being
If you need more space, it can make sense to extend instead of moving, but what are the planning permission rules? Simon Rix investigates what you need to know
covered by extensions or other buildings. Although you may not have built an extension to the house, a previous owner may have done so, so it’s important to work out what the ‘original house’ was. The definition of ‘original house’ is as it was first built, or as it stood on 1 July 1948, if it was built prior to that. There are other size limits too, which are covered below.
You will almost certainly need listed building consent if you want to extend a listed building.
Forasingle-storeyextension,you can’textendbeyondtherearwall ofthe‘originalhouse’bymorethan fourmetresifadetachedhouseor bymorethanthreemetresforany otherhouse.Ifyourhouseisnot withinthedesignatedareas(listed onpreviouspage),andyoumeet alltheotherrequirements,you cangobackeightmetresbeyond the‘originalhouse’ifit’sdetached, orsixmetresforanyotherhouse, butyou’llneedtoapplyfor‘prior approval’fromyourlocalauthority. Priorapprovalislikeaminiplanningapplicationprocess,but fewerdetailsneedtobesubmitted andtherearefewerreasonsforthe counciltosayno,comparedtoafull planningapplication.
beyondtherearwallofthe‘original house’bymorethanthreemetres orbewithinsevenmetresofany ‘boundary’oppositetherearwall ofthehousewithoutmakinga planningapplication.
A‘boundary’maynotbethe boundaryofyourlandholding. Itmeanstheboundaryofthe curtilageofyourhouse,soawall betweenagardenthatimmediately surroundsyourhouseandafield thatyoualsoownbeyondmaybe whatcounts.
Iftheprojectinvolvesmore than one storey, for you to qualify for PD rights, the roof pitch must match the existing house as far as practicable. This also applies to any upper storey built on an existing extension. Any upperfloor window located in a side elevation must be obscure-glazed and non-opening, unless the openable part is more than 1.7 metres above the floor.
A planning application will be needed if your extension would be higher than the highest part of the existing roof, or higher at the eaves than the existing eaves. Also, if your extension would come within two metres of the ‘boundary’, the height at the eaves cannot be more than three metres for the project to be covered by PD rights.
You don’t need an architect, but it’s usually a good idea to at least get an architectural designer to look over what you want to do. Best to first talk to a planning consultant to see if what you want to do is allowable, and they should also be able to suggest a good architectural practice or they may have an architectural designer working for them.
Ifyou’replanningonbuildinga sideextensionandwanttoavoid planningpermissionthenitcan’t behigherthanfourmetres,it canonlybesinglestoreyandit canonlybeuptohalfthewidth ofthe‘originalhouse’.Ifyou’re situatedinadesignatedareathen asideextensionwouldrequirea householderplanningapplication.
Foranextensionofmorethan onestorey,youmustnotextend
If you can’t squeeze into the PD rules, then you can apply for planning permission through your local planning authority, normally your district or unitary council. It’s known as a householder planning application, which is commonly used if you want to enlarge your existing home. It can be quite complicated so it’s usually best to get a professional planning consultant to help you.
The fee you will need to pay your local planning authority for this type of planning application is likely to be £206 in England or £190 in Wales. If you want to extend back between six and eight metres, and you’re not in a designated area, the fee for a ‘prior approval’ application is £96.
Planningpermissionshouldbe grantedwithineightweeks,but manycouncilsaremissingthis targetatthemoment.
Bear in mind that to benefit from PD rights, an extension cannot include any verandas, balconies (except Juliet balconies), raised platforms, TV aerials or satellite dishes, chimneys, flues or soil/vent pipes or any alteration to the roof of the existing house.
Finally, to comply with PD rights, the materials used in any exterior work must be of a similar appearance to those on the exterior of the existing house.
“Before embarking on an extension project, it’s worth doing your homework on matters such as Permitted Development rights”
Creating an open-plan living area isn’t a new concept but it’s one that needs to be done right to reap the benefits of a multifunctional space that flows and functions as you need it to.
Designing an open-plan living area might sound an easy win — either building with open plan in mind, or knocking down walls to form a larger space. However, there are some practical and design-led considerations to make that should apply whether you’re starting from scratch or creating it within an existing floorplan. Too vast a space and it can feel cold, devoid of comfort and homeliness; too small with very little room to move through the open-plan floorplan and it’ll feel cramped and uninviting. Getting the balance right is important.
Alternatively, you might want to opt for semi-open plan, sometimes known as a broken plan, to help ‘hide’ an office, for example. Or you might need to close off areas at times, so pocket or glazed doors might work well. Read on to find out how to plan a practical but comfortable space suited to open-plan living.
Kitchen, living and dining all in one space? Here’s how to design a multifunctional open-plan area that ticks all the boxes
WORDS: MICHELLE GUY“When designing the space it can be useful to imagine where walls might be if the space were to be carved up into separate rooms,” suggests associate editor, Natasha Brinsmead. “This might sound odd, but visualising the space as a series of rooms, as opposed to one open
space, forces you to think about the functions the new space will need to carry out, proper circulation, storage options, lighting and furniture placement.” If you’re knocking down walls to create open plan then these new openings will act as invisible dividers, helping demarcate different zones.
Varied ceiling heights and partial walls create zones in this open-plan space by selfbuilders Ash and Jess AlkenTheasby.
There are many methods you can employ to mark out zones so that the open-plan area doesn’t feel like an expanse of empty space. A popular option is to use a double-sided fireplace or freestanding stove. This works particularly well between living and dining areas, either designed in or created from an existing fireplace. It maintains the open space but creates visual division. If the space incorporates a kitchen then it’s not uncommon for the island unit to act as a natural divider. Partial walls, like the one pictured, sculptural dividers and glazing can also zone rooms without dominating the space or restricting light.
Layering lighting in the open-plan space is important to create atmosphere. A combination of spotlights, pendants, table lamps, LED strips and uplighters will provide ambient, task and general lighting.
“Using a split-level layout is an ideal way to ensure open-plan spaces can be organised into zones,” says Natasha. “Living spaces accessed by two or three steps from the kitchen diner, for example, clearly stand out as a relaxing area, without being shut off completely. The use of beams can also be employed to indicate a change in use from area to area. This is a really practical method for renovators opening up a number of small rooms as steel beams are usually required as a means of support.”
Choosing different flooring styles in the ‘zoned’ areas can also help create clear division; even rugs over the same flooring type will do the same trick.
If your open-plan living area includes a kitchen then it’s important to ensure adequate extraction so smells don’t linger in the living zones. Locating a hob near to a window or external doors will also help alleviate smells, too.
Don’t think everything has to be XL in size just because the space is open plan. Consider the proportions of what you need to fit in so that furniture works in the zone it’ll reside in without dominating it.
When cracks appear in an old or original ceiling, is it serious or superficial? Chartered surveyor Ian Rock explains when to call in the experts
What causes ceiling cracks?
There’s something about cracks in ceilings that can be particularly unnerving. Even the smallest fissures appearing above our heads can fuel suspicions that heavyweight chunks of plaster are poised to come raining down and inflict serious injury. But although cracking may in some cases be a symptom of serious structural problems, more often than not it’s simply a sign of the building ageing rather than a portend of imminent collapse. So how can you tell whether your ceiling is just getting a bit ‘past it’, or is desperately trying to warn you that something ominous is lurking behind the scenes?
The most common type of ceiling cracks are the hairline fractures that appear at joints between sheets of plasterboard, typically fairly straight and less than about 0.2mm wide. The cause is often down to poor quality construction where the joints weren’t properly filled and taped prior to plastering. Such problems can be exacerbated by movement within the underlying ceiling or floor structure, or settlement elsewhere in the building. All buildings move, and because joints between materials are a potential weak point, any related stresses will tend to make an appearance unless disguised by tapes or coving etc. Traditional lath and plaster ceilings (mostly pre 1930s) are not as robust as modern plasterboard and are less able to accommodate movement or water leakage, potentially allowing thick sections of plaster to loosen and ultimately drop off. Older properties are also more susceptible to seasonal
changes in ground conditions and temperatures. So where rigid modern gypsum plasters have been applied to aged ceilings the resulting tensions between timbers and plasterwork can cause localised cracking. Thin horizontal cracks appearing at ceiling edges may similarly be down to different rates of expansion and contraction between masonry walls and timber ceiling joists.
Water leakage from overflowing showers, baths and leaky pipes is a common cause. Water usually finds its way through any lighting points and along joints, leaving a distinctive light brown staining, often exposing the strips of tape between sheets of plasterboard.
something more serious?
One of the most worrying scenarios is where cracking is caused by dangerous unsupported loadings balanced precariously above ceilings. This typically occurs where botched structural alterations have been carried out, such as DIY
removals of chimney breasts or load-bearing walls. Cracking here will normally be fairly localised with associated unevenness and bulging. If this is suspected you need to urgently check if there is anything suspicious located directly above the ceiling and seek professional advice, which in most cases would be a structural engineer (see section below).
Broader ‘structural’ causes such as settlement at foundation level will likely result in pathways of associated cracking appearing in nearby walls, typically with significantly wider cracks forming around the edges of ceilings (unless obscured by coving). Horizontal cracking along the tops of bedroom walls where they meet the ceilings could also be a symptom of movement in the roof structure.
When it comes to historic lath and plaster ceilings, surveyors and builders are sometimes accused of being unduly alarmist. This is because the fine strips of wooden ‘laths’ that make up the structure of these ceilings can sometimes come loose from the joists they’re nailed to, as a result of movement or vibration in the floors above or because of water leakage. This can cause the plasterwork to lose its ‘key’ and drop away in chunks. But condemning all older ceilings on the basis of such potential risks can be misleading. Where it is suspected sections of old plasterwork may have broken away, a simple way to assess their firmness is by tapping them and listening to see if they sound hollow. Any loose laths should be checked for timber decay, and any defective areas isolated before carrying out localised repair or replacement work.
Who can diagnose structural cracks?
Chartered surveyors carrying out building surveys for homebuying clients routinely flag up the presence of ceiling cracks. If remedial work is required, this is normally explained in the report with a red or amber ‘condition
If damage is caused by a major ‘sudden and unexpected’ event such as subsidence, fire or escape of water from burst pipes or overflowing tanks then you should be able to claim on your buildings insurance policy. With smaller defects, where repair work is relatively low cost, the fact that insurers generally impose quite high policy excesses can be a deterrent to submitting claims. Where the cause of cracking is deemed to be down to ‘wear and tear’ or ‘gradual damage’ insurers will generally decline claims to cover the cost of works.
rating’ indicating the level of seriousness. But as an existing homeowner, if you notice fresh cracks appearing it’s probably worth instructing a structural engineer to focus on the specific issue rather than paying for a ‘whole house survey’. See www.structural-surveys.co.uk.
Either way, diagnosing the true causes of cracking can often call for methodical detective work, starting with an assessment of the age, materials and location of the ceiling. Checking the size and condition of the joists that form the ceiling structure is obviously fundamental, as is looking for any alterations or unusual loadings, along with possible environmental issues such as excessive heat or moisture.
Any movement elsewhere in the building needs to be investigated and appropriate solutions devised. The cost of an average RICS Homebuyer Survey might be around the £450 mark, with a slightly lower fee for a structural engineer’s report to diagnose specific cracking.
Can cracked ceilings be easily fixed?
Modern plasterboard ceilings are surprisingly durable and in most cases can accommodate water leakage or localised movement without major trauma. Bowed or damaged areas can simply be cut out and patched with new sheets of plasterboard before filling and taping the joints, then plastering to match the surrounding surfaces. Hairline cracks between boards may only need localised decorative attention with flexible
filler and emulsion, although in some cases, all the joints between boards and room edges will need to be scrim taped and filled before a fresh coat of ceiling plaster is applied.
Cracking linked to different rates of thermal expansion between adjacent materials at ceiling edges, and which is not structurally significant, can often simply be concealed with coving fitted between the walls and ceilings.
More serious repair work is likely to be required with historic lath and plaster ceilings. Once any loose or damaged areas have been isolated they can be
cut out and either infilled with plasterboard or reconstructed by securing or replacing loose laths before replastering. For added strength, lining paper can be applied over the surface to match the surrounding original ceilings. If extensive areas of old plasterwork have come loose then you may need to replace the whole ceiling with new plasterboard, unless the building is listed or of special historic value, in which case like-forlike replacement will be needed.
Repairs to cracking caused by structural issues elsewhere in the house will obviously have to wait until the root causes have been addressed. For example, where the rafters have pushed roof slopes outward, remedial repairs will first be needed to restrain the rafters prior to replastering.
“Diagnosing the true causes of ceiling cracking can often call for methodical detective work”
Got a burning question about your self-build, extension or renovation project that you need answering? Drop us a line by emailing homebuilding@futurenet.com and your question could be answered by one of our magazine experts
Is Associate Editor of HB&R and has renovated her Edwardian home.
Is an awardwinning builder, broadcaster, and host of building podcast Build: It.
TARA GBOLADE
Is an architect and owner of the award-winning Gbolade Design Studio in London.
DAVID HILTON
Is an energy efficiency expert and Director of the company Heat & Energy Ltd.
on what is expected to be built or take place in any given area.
STEVE JENKINS
Is DIY editor and former painter and decorator with all-round building skills.
JAMES GARRETT
Is Policy and Strategy Adviser for the UK’s Planning Portal website.
AThree years is the ‘default’ period in England. Situations and places change. Something that may have been permitted in the past may no longer be acceptable for a number of reasons. Having an expiry date for planning permission ensures that proposals are carried out within a reasonable timeframe. This helps to ensure that they remain suitable for their location based on the relevant factors taken into account when the permission was granted.
It also ensures that local councils and national government can plan ahead based
Generally, an expiry date cannot be extended once put in place [you’ll need to reapply], but the period stated in the permission can be longer or shorter, based on the specifics of the proposal and its location. If a longer period is needed, it is advisable to discuss this with the local authority in advance.
Exceptional circumstances (such as the recent pandemic) or changes in legislation can also mean that temporary provisions are put in place to allow deadlines to be extended. However, bear in mind that these are usually time-limited and restricted to specific situations or certain criteria.
James Garrett
We’d like to build our home to Passivhaus standards without going for certification and have heard about the Passive House Planning Programme (PHPP). How soon into the project should we start using it?
AThe PHPP is modelling software developed by the Passivhaus Institute to be used when designing energy-efficient buildings to
calculate their operational energy use and carbon emissions.
Performance gaps are one of the biggest challenges in construction. Buildings often do not perform as they are designed to, so using a tool such as the PHPP to provide rigorous modelling before starting on site can be invaluable.
The PHPP modelling will often be undertaken by your architect, who will need to be technically capable of the task. Even if they are not a certified Passivhaus designer, they may nonetheless have the knowledge
and expertise to use the technology.
The PHPP can also be employed by a sustainability expert or consultant who, working alongside your architect, will be able to interrogate design decisions and working assumptions to ensure that all aspects of the spreadsheet have been taken into account and any flaws in the design have been addressed.
The PHPP needs to be put to use as early in the design process as possible, because in theory it should help you design your building by considering:
● Possible adaptations to its orientation, form, and fenestration, with attention paid to the use of the structure’s north- and south-facing façades.
● The option to incorporate external shading for the building.
● The project’s thermal envelope.
● Any design challenges and the options for designing them out.
All these need to be taken into account alongside contextual challenges such as planning constraints like frontages, local materiality, overlooking and privacy. A fine balance must be sought throughout the design process between the requirements of the PHPP-aided energy efficiency and the more physical challenges of a site. Tara Gbolade
A good local builder will have much experience with extending all sorts of houses, so they have invaluable advice to impart. Use that to your advantage before getting plans drawn up. Engaging with a builder beforehand means you can discuss structural details, groundworks, and so on. Then you can take this information to your architect and plans can be drawn up accordingly. Andy Stevens
How much does it cost to remove a chimney breast?
This will depend on the type of chimney breast you are removing and what structural solutions will be required. It’s crucial, therefore, that you consult with a structural engineer to ensure the structural integrity of your property remains sound and it’s removed in the safest possible way. The works will need to comply with Part A of UK Building Regulations, too. For some homes, the removal of a chimney doesn’t necessarily affect the strength of your load-bearing walls. Regardless, your
local authority will want proof of this. Although costs will vary, property expert Michael Holmes recommends budgeting around £5,000. This may sound high – and it may well be possible to have a ground floor chimney breast removed for as little as £1,500 – but there are other costs that will bump the price up, such as Party Wall Agreements, £700 (plus VAT) per affected neighbour, and gas appliance alterations (£50-£100 to remove a gas fire). Removing the stack (the section of the chimney that can be seen above the roof) will cost around £300 per metre.
BrinsmeadQWe’re about to have the walls of our self-build plastered but we’re not sure how long the plaster will need to dry properly so it doesn’t crack. What are the optimum drying and curing times?
AKnowing the drying and curing times of different plasters is essential so you can plan ahead and not jump into a project too soon.
When plastering walls, the plaster itself sets in a couple of hours so it stays on the wall and ceiling. But it doesn’t fully dry, which it needs to do before you start whatever project you have in mind.
If you don’t wait for it to fully dry and you decide to paint, wallpaper or start drilling into the plaster, you could encounter some unwanted problems down the line. For example, if you start painting a wall before the plaster is fully dry, you are going to get a poor finish. Moisture will be trapped in the plaster which will cause the paint to start flaking, or even worse, encourage the growth of mould.
The assumption is that drying times refer to the time it takes before you can start working with the plaster. This is where the confusion exists.
Drying times refer to how long the plaster will take to set. These times are much quicker than the time needed for the plaster to fully dry — known as curing.
Plaster might take a couple of hours to set, but much longer to cure. For example, if you are painting new plaster you will have to wait for around a week or more before you can start painting.
Surrounding environmental factors also determine actual drying times. If the plaster is in a well-ventilated area and the weather is warm, the plaster will dry much
quicker than an area where there is little ventilation or warmth.
There are a lot of different plasters around, but typical setting times are between one and three hours. The curing times for most common plasters found in the home is between four to six days, but some specialist plasters can even take up to one month.
Here’s a quick guide to drying and curing times for new plaster:
This is the base coat that’s typically applied to block or brickwork to prepare walls. It’s also applied to ceilings for the finishing plaster. These include bonding, browning, and hardwall plasters.
● Drying time: one to five hours.
● Curing time: four to 14 days.
This is used to provide the final smooth and durable plaster that you see when you look at a newly plastered wall. It is often a pinky brown colour — and turns a light pinkish colour when cured.
● Drying time: 1.5 to four hours.
● Curing time: three to 10 days. However, if you are skimming plasterboard, the curing time will fortunately be much quicker.
● Lime plaster was traditionally used in older homes to cover the surface of internal walls and ceilings.
● Drying time: four to 10 days.
● Curing time: two weeks to one month.
If plaster sustains minor damage, you need to know how to patch. This is often done with patching plaster and is typically used for small areas where plaster needs repairing rather than covering entire walls. This dries very quickly, especially when used in small quantities.
● Drying time: one to four hours.
● Curing time: one to two days.
One simple solution is to leave the plaster for a week in a well-ventilated room. But it could dry out sooner as Gary Blackburn, plaster support manager at Saint Gobain, points out: “The drying time of plaster varies mainly due to external factors such as the temperature and the humidity. It is usually dry anytime between two and four days. Wherever possible, plaster should be allowed to dry out naturally.” A visual check is a good indicator of when it is dry: “When plaster sets, it turns to a mid-brown colour, turning to a light salmon colour as it dries.” Steve Jenkins
Plasterers always tend to be in high demand so they can charge a premium for their
services. If you need multiple rooms plastered then it can be a good idea to get them done at the same time to help average out the cost. According
to Checkatrade it will cost in the region of £250 to hire a plasterer for a day and around £24/m2 if you need walls skimmed instead.
how much does it cost to plaster a room?
Can I add underfloor heating to my extension if I already have radiators and a combi boiler?
AIf you want to add underfloor heating to an extension where the existing home already runs off a combi boiler, then it’s important to establish if this a viable option — especially if you have radiators. There is no reason why you cannot use a fossil fuel boiler such as a combi boiler to provide the heat for underfloor heating. The main benefit of using a combi boiler is a reduced cost. Combi boilers are generally far cheaper to buy and fit than, for example, heat pumps.
However, the downside is that underfloor heating needs to operate at a lower temperature and as such, if you are using underfloor heating with a combi boiler, you will need to adapt your system to appropriately regulate the temperature.
If a high temperature device like a combi boiler is used in the system, then a blending valve needs to be fitted to the underfloor heating manifold to regulate the temperature in the pipes and prevent the floor from overheating and potentially getting damaged, as well as preventing cracking.
A combi boiler has a second heat exchanger for central heating. This is a closed-loop pumped system that circulates water through the radiators and underfloor heating.
The blending valve on the manifold limits the heat being delivered to the heating circuit, but if the boiler is too large then there may be a need for a buffer cylinder to be installed to act as a heat store. These are typically anything from 50 litres up to 200 litres, depending on the boiler capacity and the building heat load.
If there are radiators on
the heating system as well as underfloor heating, then you have two separate options if you are running them from a boiler:
● Size the radiators to run at a lower temperature and then have the underfloor heating and radiators all running at the same temperature.
● Alternatively, run the radiators at high temperature and the underfloor heating at the lower temperature.
For the latter, you can separate them with a number of valves if you want separate zones, but the blending valve and buffer tank will cool the water for the underfloor heating. David Hilton
www.homebuilding.co.uk
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A stylish entrance sets the tone for the rest of your home. With help and advice from our experts, here’s how to design a hallway that creates the right impression
Achieving a hallway you can be proud of and which does justice to the rest of your home relies on several important factors. For example, getting your hallway lighting just right is an excellent starting point and there are several tricks you can try to eliminate shadows and illuminate every inch of your space to make it appear larger and
more welcoming. It’s also about creating a space with ideas that are personal to you, and one that reflects your own tastes and sense of style.
To help you make the most of this area of your home we asked architects, interior designers and other experts for their ideas on what makes an ideal modern hallway…
When architect Jake Edgley of Edgley Design created the hallway in one of his awardwinning self-builds, he used exterior timber cladding on an internal wall to bring the outside world into the doubleheight space. The primary wall was finished in the same western red cedar cladding as the outside, which helps to link interior and exterior. Jake also positioned a skylight above the design to add sunlight and continue the theme of bringing nature inside. A lightweight contemporary staircase provided a light, open feel to complement the look. Your home doesn’t have to be cedar clad for this insideoutside theme to work. An exposed red brick wall can provide external texture to a hallway, too, as can painted render, or bare basalt, sandstone or granite bricks.
Hallway wallpaper can add intrigue to a space and set it apart from other homes, especially if you have a spectacular custom design. And if you’re more reserved in your styling, wallpaper isn’t just about colour, either, it’s also about texture. “Adding a feature wall with wallpaper is a great way to add texture to any space,” confirms Gawaine Archibald, from Archibald’s Decorating & Renovations.
When the Eastbourne-based decorator worked on this home in Essex, he used contrasting wallpapers to decorate the high feature walls – one with a subtle floral design and the other with a flat colour that referenced one of the shades in the patterned paper. To complement this look, the woodwork was painted in a brilliant white.
A large mirror can be a stunning focal point but it can also add depth to a modern hallway — it it’s well positioned it can have a similar impact to a piece of artwork.
Placed on a wall beside or opposite a window, a mirror will bounce the daylight around to make the space appear larger and more welcoming. A neutral tone on the walls will also help.
In this hallway, a vintage-style mirror, mid-century modern sideboard and contemporary flooring and accessories all combine to create an eclectic look.
If you are still in the planning stages of your build and you have the luxury of space, making your entrance hallway a double-height room is a real showstopper. It gives anyone entering your home the impression of a large, open build that draws your eye upward. It doesn’t just work in entrance hallways, either. A double-height area in an upstairs hall or downstairs passageway also adds drama.
We usually imagine these double-height spaces to have skylights but you can use a higher-level window as a means of flooding the area with daylight, as well as incorporating a suspended pendant light or contemporary chandelier to give the space added wow factor.
Concentrate on the usable width of the modern hallway area, especially if you are tight on space. “Maintaining the width of your hallway as you enter allows you to enter and pause while you transition from outside to in,” explains architect Pereen d’Avoine from London-based practice Russian for Fish.
“If the width is restricted by an abundance of coats hung at high level, you feel the need to pass through the hallway quickly and the transition space is lost.” When Pereen designed Newbery House in Islington, pictured here, she added an alcove for coats so they wouldn’t jut out into this key usable area.
If your build has a stunning architectural feature, like an unusually angled roof or cantilever design, you can show it off from inside as well as outside the house, and a hallway or passageway is the perfect place to do this. “Corridors and entrance halls are one of the few moments in a home when you look up and really engage with the architecture of the building — it’s a chance to combine function and aesthetics to bring joy,” TV architect Charlie Luxton explains. “You need to think of the hallway as a part of the entrance sequence arriving in a building, not as a space in isolation.”
Charlie’s design here shows a hallway that cleverly uses a sloped ceiling to highlight the exterior architecture of the building on the inside, too.
Another modern hallway idea to consider is opening up doorways or using glass doors to see through the house and out into the back garden — creating a through-view that not only adds more interest but also accentuates the feeling of space.
It’s an idea Charlie Luxton often uses, again to invite and lead the eye into the rest of the home. This device also brings nature into our homes by showcasing what’s going on outside as well as adding daylight.
Choosing the best hallway paint is about using colours that work with the rest of your home. Incorporating colour in vinyl matt finishes on ceilings and walls can be effective and make a wall in a room pop. “It’s about bringing in the ceiling and walls in the same colours or being bold and painting the ceiling in a darker colour if you have high ceilings and original period features,” explains decorator Gawaine Archibald.
There are many benefits to building your own house. It is an opportunity to create a unique home tailored around your lifestyle. It can be a route to creating a home that will adapt as your needs change, for instance accommodating wheelchair use. It also offers scope to build a property that is low maintenance and energy efficient.
What’s more, self-builders often achieve a larger home and garden compared to buying a new home on the open market — the average self-build project is 247m²*, more than double
the size of the average new-build developer home. And, as an added bonus, self-builders typically enjoy a handsome profit of 25% on their investment*.
Once you’ve decided to build your own home, there are some key questions you need to begin answering: where will you build your new home, what do you hope to build, how will you finance your project, who will build it and how will it be built, for instance. Follow our in-depth beginner’s guide to find out how to start this incredible journey…
Once you have purchased your plot there are a good number of steps you need to take before you can begin building your dream home…
You’ll likely need a designer on board to help you formulate plans for your dream home. This might be an architect, an architectural technologist, an architectural designer or an in-house designer at a package company. The design process is likely to take at least a couple of months, possibly considerably longer. Then you’ll need to apply for planning permission…
The cost of submitting a planning application varies across the UK, but is currently £462 in England. However, the real cost of obtaining planning permission arguably comes from design fees to prepare plans and documents, as well as any surveys that may be required to support your application.
You should usually find out whether your local planning authority has approved your scheme after eight weeks — although more complex schemes can sometimes take longer.
News of approval doesn’t necessarily mean you can start work. The conditions attached to your planning consent might require resolution first. Make sure they are capable of being satisfied, as failure to do so could hold up your build, and in the most extreme cases, invalidate the consent altogether. You may also find that you are required to discharge certain conditions during the build, too.
All new homes need to adhere to the Building Regulations, and for this reason a building control inspector will visit at key stages of the build to inspect the work and ensure it complies. These stages include: excavation for the foundations, pouring concrete for the foundations, building the oversite, building the damp-proof course, drainage, a visit prior to completion and a final visit on completion. A completion certificate will then be issued following the final inspection.
You’ll need to decide who will carry out your inspections: your local authority building control department or an approved inspector from a private company. Both these options have pros and cons in terms of costs and benefits.
You can establish contact with a builder, main contractor or package company during the design and planning processes, but they won’t be able to give you an accurate quote for their work until your Building Regulations drawings have been finalised.
One of the best ways of finding a good builder and subcontractors is through word of mouth — people you know locally who’ve built their own homes will be more than happy to provide recommendations. Much like finding a designer, choosing a builder requires plenty of research. It’s best to meet with them to discuss your project, see if you get along with them and ask for a quote (your designer can help you prepare tender documents for this purpose).
The best builders and subcontractors will be booked up months in advance, so start your search early. The same goes for package companies. You’ll likely wait three months or so.
If you need to get services to your site, the cost could be as little as £500 or in excess of £10,000, depending on the site’s location, what services you need, and the land connections need to be made across. Private land will require a wayleave to grant access, while public highways may involve road digs, which will need to be done by approved contractors.
If the cost of bringing in mains gas and drainage is prohibitive, it may be time to investigate the off-mains alternatives, such as oil, LPG or a renewable heating and hot water system, and a sewerage treatment plant for drainage.
It’s important to note that, while electricity is not essential during the build, a water supply is often needed early on.
This is one of the biggest decisions you’ll need to make prior to your build. Some are in a position to remain in their existing homes while self-building. However, many need to consider an alternative. You could stay with family or friends, but remember that the average self-build project takes around a year on site, and be realistic about timescales if you plan to rely on someone’s hospitality. Renting temporary accommodation is another option, but an expensive one. You could also live on site in a caravan, a static or an outbuilding built first.
Funding your project may require a specialist self-build mortgage…
There are two significant costs when building your own home: the building plot and the build itself. There are also a few additional costs that you’ll need to factor in — see the box on the bottom right of this page.
You’ll need access to money to buy a building plot, to pay for professional services such as architectural designers’ fees and any site surveys required, and to fund the build itself. How you find this money will, of course, depend on your financial situation. It may come from your savings, equity in your existing home, a self-build mortgage or, most likely, a combination of all three.
Surprisingly few high street banks provide formal facilities for self-build finance, so you’ll probably need to approach a specialist self-build mortgage provider, who will be able to offer you a mortgage product tailored towards the way you pay for a self-build project — with money released in several stages, rather than all at once (as it would be if you were buying a house). Finance will be released at key stages as the build progresses, for example when the foundations are laid or when the building is made weathertight.
There are two main types of stage release mortgage: an arrears stage payment mortgage, which sees funds released as work is completed, and an advance stage payment mortgage, which pays out before each designated stage of the build begins. The latter has the obvious advantage of assisting cash flow and is generally better suited to those who do not have large pots of savings to fund their build as it progresses.
Some, but not all, self-build lenders are willing to lend on plot purchases, too. Rates of interest for self-build mortgages are typically higher than those that are currently available for a standard house purchase or remortgage. The arrangement fees also vary significantly from lender to lender, so be sure to shop around. Once the property is habitable, some lenders allow the borrower to switch to a lower rate of interest, so be sure to look for that feature and factor it in to your decision.
The amount you can borrow will depend on similar factors to those that would govern your limit on a standard house mortgage; in most cases these will include an affordability assessment, income multipliers and LTV (loan to value ratio — a measure of lending risk). Lending policies change regularly, but lenders may, for example, offer to provide funding for up to 85% of the value of the building project. In order to progress your application you’ll likely need to provide plans and a breakdown of the potential build cost.
One of the major benefits of building your own home is that you can reclaim VAT using HMRC’s VAT431NB form. This includes materials that are fixed into the house. The interpretation of this can be complex. For instance, you can reclaim VAT on timber flooring, but not carpet. You cannot reclaim VAT for design fees or services. You can only make one claim, so keep your VAT receipts safely in one place.
The Community Infrastructure Levy (CIL) imposes a fee on the creation of new homes, which is determined by the local authority and is based on the size of the house. The good news is that, subject to certain criteria, self-builders are now exempt from paying CIL. That said, you’ll need to be extremely careful to have all the paperwork in place for your exemption; each step of the process needs to be followed to the letter to prevent CIL becoming chargeable.
In addition to the plot and total build cost, there are other costs associated with building a home that need to be accounted for, including those associated with purchasing the plot (legal fees and stamp duty), a topographical survey, any surveys you need for planning purposes (such as ecological surveys), design fees, planning fees and the cost of creating plans for Building Regulations’ purposes. You’ll also need to purchase self-build insurance as soon as you buy your plot, and it’s a good idea to get a warranty, too. Another common ‘hidden’ cost is the price of bringing services like electricity, water and mains gas to site. These extras can add up fast, so stay on top of them.
It’s the starting point to any self-build dream. Here’s what to consider when plot hunting
You may be fortunate enough to have a plot already at your disposal — a large side garden, for instance. However, for many selfbuilders, their journey begins with finding a suitable plot.
It’s important to keep an open mind when looking for a plot. Typical plot types do include greenfield sites as well as fully serviced plots offered by developers with self-builders in mind, but plots may also be brownfield land, or old buildings that can be replaced.
In these latter cases, it’s important to consider potential pitfalls such as contamination, which can be costly, but provided you’re careful, there are hidden treasures everywhere. The key is to treat every home as just a temporary occupant of a building plot — once you get into this mindset, opportunities begin to present themselves all over the place.
What makes a building plot?
A piece of land is not a building plot until planning permission is granted. Access is another key requirement (see right).
If you do identify land with the hallmarks of a potential building plot, then as long as it doesn’t fall outside the settlement boundary or contravene other planning policies, there is nothing to stop you applying for planning permission, even if you do not own the land. If you opt for this route, ensure you have a contract in place with the owner so you can purchase the plot for an agreed sum if you are successful.
More commonly, you will have purchased a plot with outline or full planning permission already in place. The good news is, you can reapply for planning permission for a design that
more closely resembles your dream home. That said, the existing design and planning history of the plot will provide a good clue about what is and isn’t likely to be approved.
The price of your plot will reflect the local housing market. Ideally, the real value of a plot should equal the end value of house minus the total build cost (visit www.homebuilding.co.uk/calculator).
You should also try to factor in any ‘additional’ costs and put aside 10-30% of your build cost as a contingency to cover any unexpected expenses.
Typically, self-builders pay between £100,000 and £275,000 for a plot. However, this varies across the country.
● Ensure planning permission has not expired and is not about to expire. There is no guarantee that reapplications will succeed.
● Keep an eye out for access. If it doesn’t extend directly up to the adopted highway, there should at least be a legal right to cross third party land to access the plot in perpetuity.
● Check for covenants that could limit the ways the land might be developed, and for overages — obligations that may involve further payments to the previous owner down the line.
● Ensure services are in place. If they are not, then research your options, and establish the likely cost of bringing them to site. You might also plan to use off-mains options, which are readily available for heating, hot water, and drainage.
● Check whether the title deeds are ‘absolute’ or ‘possessory’, and negotiate on the plot price accordingly.
1STUDY THE LOCAL AREA
Think like a developer and search out opportunities others overlook. Get out and about in your chosen area or use Google Maps to look for homes on big plots that have a large side garden or infill land.
2 USE PLOTFINDER.NET
Register with plot services like www.plotfinder.net, which collects information from those selling land (including some who are not selling elsewhere) and makes it available through a subscription.
CONTACT EXPERTS Some package companies, such as Potton and Border Oak, hold lists of available plots online.
Many opportunities are sold via auction, so find out the key agents in your area and get on their lists for catalogues. If you’ve not been to an auction, go and experience one first hand to familiarise yourself with the process.
5 CHECK YOUR LOCAL AUTHORITY’S WEBSITE
Check recent planning applications on your local authority’s website. The details of the owner are often included on the application, and there is nothing to stop you contacting them directly.
We have plenty of advice on how to find a plot, details on the different types and ideas for what can be built on all sites: www.homebuilding.co.uk
Get insurance lined up Self-build projects require specialist insurance to protect against public liability issues, fires, storm damage and more. Get cover in place as soon as you exchange contracts on your plot.
Self-build is a broad church and there are many routes to getting an individual home built. However, generally speaking, most self-builders choose one of the following routes:
● Project managing the entire build themselves, including hiring and coordinating subcontractors like plumbers and electricians to complete the build, as well as buying most of the building materials.
● Choosing a main contractor or builder to manage and coordinate the build on their behalf. In this case, the builder or main contractor will often take on the job of buying all or the majority of the building materials.
● Choosing a professional project manager to coordinate their build.
● Building their own home by hand — the ultimate DIY route.
● Outsourcing the project to a package company, many of which coordinate everything from initial design concepts right through to completion. Other package companies may offer the opportunity to decide on the level of service required.
Only 16% of self-build projects are undertaken on a DIY basis, with the majority (57%) of self-builders choosing to instead project manage subcontractors to build their house for them*. The reality is that most self-builders use a combination of the approaches outlined. One popular route involves commissioning a package company
to build the ‘superstructure’, with the self-builder managing the groundworks before and interior fit-out after (first and second fix work, decoration and the like).
Choosing the right self-build route for your project is a decision only you can reach, but there are undoubtedly a number of important factors that will influence this choice — your finances, how much time you can devote to the project and how capable you are at carrying out jobs yourself, for starters.
Those looking for significant cost savings need to understand that the more work and time they put in, the more they will save. The Homebuilding & Renovating Self & Custom Build Market Report 2017 found that people who build their own homes through DIY save 25% on their build costs against those who simply manage their own projects, while self-builders taking on the role of project manager saved 17%, compared to those who used a professional main contractor.
There are a number of different build systems to choose from — no longer is the choice simply between timber frame and masonry. In most instances, your chosen construction system will have little impact on how the exterior of your home will look, as most cladding materials can be used with all the main construction systems.
Construction systems can be broadly divided into on-site methods, such as masonry and ICF, where the majority of the structure is built where it will stand, and off-site methods, where the main structure is constructed elsewhere and delivered to site to be erected. The latter
Project managing your own home is the most popular build route for a self-build. Find out what’s involved by visiting our website: www.homebuilding.co.uk/ advice/could-you-projectmanage-your-buildingproject
tends to result in a faster build once the materials arrive on site.
There are essentially three things to consider when deciding: price, quality and speed. If you are not too concerned with how your house looks ‘under the bonnet’ or feel unable to make this decision, then it might be best to hire a professional to do this for you. Your chosen architect, structural engineer or builder may have preferred methods of working and in such cases you would be well advised to work with your appointed specialist on the systems they know and like. Alternatively, they may offer advice on the most cost-effective or suitable construction system for the home you hope to build.
Conversely, if you have your heart set on a particular construction method – maybe oak frame for its character, or another timber frame because you hope to project manage once the superstructure is built – then it’s a good idea to approach a designer or package company well versed in that construction system right from the outset. Each construction system has its own set of parameters and design challenges, and designing a home with said construction system in mind is a cost-effective route.
Self-build is a broad church — you needn’t lay a single brick if you don’t want to!
The key to the success of your homebuilding project is effective preparation, so get these five essentials in place before work begins
The prospect of going over budget is by far the biggest worry for people taking on a build project, so to manage your expectations, be sure you have a good detailed estimate of the costs based on your specific plans. You can either employ a quantity surveyor to carry out a full bespoke report (with recommendations on where to save or potential alternatives) or you can use one of the fixed price estimating services provided by the likes of Build Aviator or Estimators Limited.
Independent expert advice on your project is not only expensive but also difficult to come by. In Homebuilding & Renovating magazine, and online at www.homebuilding.co.uk, we aim to give you access to the analysis and insight supplied by Britain’s leading independent self-build experts.
In addition to impartial expert advice, you’ll also get access to the latest and best design ideas and the inspirational final results from self-builders who have been there and have the house to prove it.
If you’re buying a new home from a developer, your solicitor and lender will insist on it being bought with a structural warranty provided by the developer. If you’re building your own home, any lender on the project will insist on one, too. Even if you’re not borrowing money to fund the build, if you were to sell the house, the purchaser’s solicitor would insist on one. There are lots of options and it usually costs around 1% of the total build cost. The warranty inspector will visit the site in stages to ensure structural integrity
A building site’s a dangerous place so you must get adequate insurance to protect your investment. You’ll need public liability insurance, employer’s liability insurance and insurance to cover the valuable materials and tools kept on site.
The groundworks aspect of a build project is a significant unknown quantity — and it’s where a contingency fund is vital. The more you can understand about the potential foundations solution required (how deep or, possibly, what type of specialist system you will need to employ) the more you’ll have foresight of potential costs. A high-quality site survey will give you this, digging trial holes across the site to enable you to work out what the ground consists of and how far solid ground actually is below the surface (some garden plots, for instance, will consist of topsoil/made up ground).
After four years of hard work and setbacks, Rowan and Ally Adams have made their patch of beautiful Cornish coast greener than ever
Rowan and Ally Adams
LOCATION Carbis Bay, Cornwall
PROJECT Replacement self-build
BUILD ROUTE Subcontractors and DIY
BUILD METHOD Steel and timber frame, with masonry outer leaf
BUILD TIME 2016 – 2021
SIZE 240m2
HOUSE COST £640,000
WORDS Alexandra Pratt
PHOTOGRAPHS Simon Burt
Rowan and Ally Adams didn’t plan to uproot their lives in London and start afresh in west Cornwall, but that’s what happened when Ally started browsing the internet and daydreaming. “I was bored at work, and I looked at this house because of the views,” says Ally, who knows the area from childhood holidays. The property that caught her eye had a superb setting on the coast close to St Ives, with uninterrupted views across the bay. Before they knew it, the couple had made an offer, which was accepted. “It was random and spur of the moment, but we just did it.”
The four-bedroom 1960s house was set within a third of an acre of land. The couple’s plan was to refurbish the house and run it as a B&B – they needed their new lifestyle to provide them with an income. Then they found architect Neil Wall of Studio West Architects who had another suggestion for the rather dated and inefficient home.
Ally: “Neil said, ‘Have you thought about knocking it down?’ We were horrified!” Yet once the couple considered the VAT savings associated with building anew – and the advantages of a property designed exactly for their needs as both a home and a business – they saw the appeal. They also realised this could be an opportunity to live a greener life but also fulfilling their ambition to build their own home – one that was eco-friendly.
“We were so lucky to find Neil – he really got what we wanted to do,” says Rowan. Once they embraced the idea of a self-build project, Rowan and Ally knew they had very clear ideas about the design of their new home, both inside and out.
“I have a passion for the architecture and interiors of the mid-century,” explains Ally. “We wanted stone, wood and black render. That was our brief.”
Work began in earnest with the removal of the 1960s property. “The biggest shock was seeing the old house demolished,” says Ally. “The whole plot looked like a landslide and I felt sick. But our contractors, Taylor Build, were great. They got us out of the ground.” But then things started to go wrong. “I was always going to fit out the interiors,” says Rowan. “But costs were spiralling, so I took over the build, too.” Having some construction experience, Rowan started working on the
“We’ve no car, we’ve reduced plastic. We are trying to live as green a life as possible”
Ally was clear she didn’t want a “white box” and their home is finished in stone, timber and black render. Planning permission to knock down and replace the existing 1960s home went through with no serious issues, thanks to the mix of housing styles locally.
build with just the steel frame in place on the lower storey. The remaining timber frame was still to be erected and the house needed a masonry outer leaf. “I don’t know what we thought we were doing on our budget; we kept making additions and could have been left with a half-built house,” says Ally.
Luckily for the couple, a neighbour with industry knowhow agreed to work with Rowan on site for a few months, but progress was slow. Ally stayed in London in a rented property and worked, while Rowan moved to Cornwall to finish the build. “I lived in a container for two years with a bucket and no flush loo,” he says. “It was an endurance test. That first winter was brutal. I’d spend the first hour bailing out the site.”
After Covid hit and Ally was made redundant, she also moved to Cornwall and began working on site, mixing concrete and carrying blocks. Apart from the sheer unrelenting labour, the biggest challenge, they both say, was the access. Situated down a long and steep drive, deliveries were left at the roadside, leaving Rowan to move them any way he could. Some materials could be placed on his homemade slide, before being stacked and carried up the scaffolding. “I was quite fit after that,” he smiles.
One of the big motivating reasons for anyone to self-build is to get exactly the home they need. For Rowan and Ally, this wasn’t just a home and business in one, but also a complete lifestyle rethink. “We’ve started to live differently,” says Ally. “We’ve no car, we’ve reduced plastic. We are trying to live as green a life as possible.” And those choices are reflected in the decisions they made for their new home.
“I wanted a really eco-friendly house,” says Rowan, who opted for a solar PV (photovoltaic) array on the roof as a top-up for the electricity. They also bought an air source heat pump to run the underfloor heating, as there is no gas available in the area. “We got a grant for £7,000 over six years for the pump and we have a Feed-in Tariff for the PV panels,” he adds. “We only use the air source heat pump on low in winter.”
Despite the large quantities of glazing, the house is so well insulated, it achieved an EPC rating of A. “It’s a very costefficient house, and I couldn’t do any more,” says Rowan.
On the lower storey, the flat roof section boasts a beautiful green sedum roof, which Rowan and Ally planted themselves. “I’ve always fancied a sedum roof and it was really easy to install,” says Ally, who used some pre-made pods which slot together. The whole roof blooms in spring and early summer, attracting pollinators.
After such a difficult start, Rowan and Ally are finally living the life they originally dreamed. Their home is now a chic fourbedroom property across three storeys that wouldn’t look out of place in Los Angeles. All rooms boast wide vistas across the coastline. The main living area is open plan, with east and westfacing windows, providing plenty of natural light throughout the day. “We also have a thriving B&B business now,” says Rowan. “Our guests have all been fabulous, they all love the house and say ‘wow’ when they walk through the door.”
Ally agrees: “I was bored with my job, but now I have a lovely house and a sociable job. We enjoy every minute.”
Stay at Rowan and Ally’s home via AirBNB www.airbnb.co.uk/ rooms/49971098
Steel frames allowed for open interior spans and large windows. The ground floor is finished in microcement – the 2-3mm thick layer creates a seamless finish similar to polished concrete –while the ceiling is clad in tongue and groove timber.
Dark, dramatic tones sit alongside the vibrant green of the houseplants. Upstairs (right and below) the engineered timber flooring brings a cosy warmth to the master en suite.
One of the things that adds to the ‘wow’ factor of Rowan and Ally’s home is the careful and clever design – not just of the building, but the interiors too.
“I had a load of retro vintage furniture,” says Ally, who has incorporated this creative design ethos into the fabric of the house. “Downstairs, I left the block and beam exposed. It looks fab, so why spend money covering it up?”
Ally also used her collection of patterned concrete blocks – a 1970s staple – to create a breakfast bar, with former school gym benches as shelves.
The ground level floor is surfaced with microcement. Upstairs, engineered timber accommodates the underfloor heating, and the walls are clad with ply.
Outside, Rowan also got creative with concrete when he built the ‘floating’ steps to the front door. Each step
overhangs the next and they ‘flow’ up to the top of the drive.
Rowan and Ally approached every element with a creative, cost-effective mindset, which extended to sourcing materials.
When their preferred encaustic tiles for the en suite proved too expensive, Ally sourced them directly from a company in Morocco that allowed her to design the tile herself, using a range of patterns and colours. “And not one tile broke en route!” she says.
Elsewhere, the colour palette consists of darker, more dramatic tones that work brilliantly against the raw timber and the lush green of houseplants. It also frames the bright ocean views perfectly, creating a million-dollar look that wouldn’t be out of place in the home of a Hollywood A-lister.
ROBIN WHITLOCK Journalist Robin specialises in environmental issues, climate change and renewable energy.
As energy costs soar, and more and more homeowners are considering installing solar panels on their roof in a bid to save on energy bills, it’s only right to question how they will work and how much energy they can generate, day to day. This is especially pertinent during the winter months because the UK weather can be temperamental and we’re prone to dull, cloudy days.
So, do solar panels on your roof work in winter? The simple answer is yes. Despite the sun being lower in the sky, and the days being potentially cloudier and rainier, solar panels will still generate electricity, just not as much electricity as they would during summer because the amount of daylight is reduced. However, you can help compensate for the lack of sunlight by adding a battery storage system to your solar panel array (read more on the following page). But solar panels will still work during winter. And here’s why…
Firstly, it’s worth understanding how solar panels work. Solar panels are made from wafers of silicon, a semiconducting material in which electrons are stimulated in response to photons of light, thereby generating electrical energy. And not just direct sunlight but all light, because solar cells will also react to diffuse light, which is light that has been scattered by particles, such as rain clouds, in the atmosphere. Which is why solar panels will still operate in the winter months, without direct sunlight. Indeed, rainy weather can potentially benefit solar panels
Solar panels are at their most efficient at temperatures between 15°C (59°F) and 35°C (95°F), according to Action Renewables. This means they will still generate efficiently during the kind of UK heatwave we experienced in 2022, which is thankfully rare. However, solar panels will start to lose efficiency as it grows hotter beyond those temperatures, but this will not normally be a problem in the UK.
by washing away accumulated dirt and grime on the surfaces that would otherwise restrict the amount of light, enabling the panels to work efficiently.
Solar panels generally need at least four hours of direct sunlight to operate at their peak performance. According to Yes Energy Solutions, this is based on 1,000W/m2 of sunlight for peak output. However, as mentioned previously, this doesn’t mean that solar panels won’t work at all in anything less than direct sunlight. In fact, just this year, scientists at Stanford University in the US developed solar panels that actually work at night, using infrared light.
In general, the most suitable roof for a solar panel array at all times of the year is one that faces south or south-east, thereby orientated towards the morning and noon sun. A roof that faces south-west or west may still be suitable, but in those directions, the sun will be in decline as it moves towards the setting position. Any danger of shading the panels might be mitigated by locating them in a ground array in the garden or backyard rather than on the roof.
Solar panels generate less electricity in the winter for several reasons. First, there is less sunlight available during the course of the day. Secondly, the sun is usually lower in the sky and therefore the light reaching the panels is weaker.
However, on some winter days, more electricity may be generated than on a summer day during a heatwave, because too much heat can adversely affect a solar panel. (Solar panels do work in hot desert countries because of inbuilt safeguards against ‘heat induced degradation’.) In more northerly regions, though, the cold combined with bright sunlight can actually benefit solar power generation.
The UK receives an annual average total amount of sunshine of 1,339.7 hours, representing just under 30% of the maximum possible amount (approximately 4,476 hours during the course of a year). Due to its geographical location and climate, UK skies are frequently cloudy. Unsurprisingly, the
Robin Whitlock investigates just how efficient solar panels are in winter, how much energy they can generate and the use of a battery storage system to store excess electricity
winter?
northern regions of the UK receive less sunlight than the south. Dorset, Hampshire, Sussex and Kent, being the sunniest parts of the country, receive an average total of around 1,750 hours per year. Coastal sea fog and high pressure weather systems (anticyclones) may also be a problem.
According to The Green Age, figures produced by the Energy Saving Trust suggest a 3kW solar panel system facing due south will produce around 300kW hours (kWh) in June and July but only 75kWh in the deep winter months of December and January. This amounts to just over a fifth of the electricity generated during the summer months. The average home uses 8 to 10kWh of electricity per day, so winter generation will not be sufficient to power a home on its own. And this is not factoring in evening consumption either (this is where batteries come in; more on which later). “However, at best these are only a starting point,” says energy efficiency expert Tim Pullen. “What is wanted is a detailed and accurate calculation of the energy demand based on the building and the people in it. This ideally needs to be completed by a specialist, as working out how much electricity is needed for lighting, appliances and so on is a tricky process.”
The best way of maximising electricity generation from solar panels during the winter months is to
A solar panel that is covered in snow is not as great a problem as you might think. In most cases, the residual heat generated by the panel will melt the snow sufficiently so that the snow just slides off, although excessively heavy snowfall will require the snow to be cleared off the panel surface manually.
One potential danger is that frozen water could damage solar panels in cold conditions, causing cracks in the solar cells and adversely affecting soldered joints and damage the components. However, solar panel manufacturers generally tailor their products to specific regions, thereby taking into account local climatic conditions. In most cases, your solar panels should be able to withstand freezing temperatures. So temperature is not normally a problem in the United Kingdom, except perhaps for some regions of northern Scotland.
support them with a solar battery energy storage system. This will enable storage of excess electricity that is generated in the day for use in the evening. It will also reduce the amount of electricity you will need to source from the grid during the winter months. Some energy companies have now launched ‘time-of-use’ tariffs so that electricity can be stored in a battery while it’s cheap (such as overnight).
Batteries can also be affected by the cold weather, as they are mostly meant for indoor use. The risk to batteries from colder temperatures can be reduced by locating them in a sheltered place such as a garage or insulated building or indoors in a house. This will help keep them operating more efficiently.
Other options for maximising electricity generation from solar panels include reorientating the tilt angle of the panels (assuming that is possible — it may not be if they are roof-mounted) to take advantage of the lower level of the sun in the winter sky. Cleaning panels regularly is also important, but usually the rain will do that.
For maximum efficiency, solar panels should be positioned to face south or south-east but a south-west orientation can still be worthwhile.
Both the government and the construction industry are under increasing pressure to lower the levels of embodied carbon in new homes, with the net zero drive meaning cutting carbon emissions from building work is now a priority.
Is an architect, the director of HEM architects and a specialist in low-energy design.
But this isn’t an easy task — UK Green Building Council research from November 2021 showed that embodied carbon emissions from the construction, maintenance and demolition of buildings creates 40-50 million tonnes of CO2 each year. This is more than shipping and aviation combined.
It’s an issue that could become very pertinent to housebuilders, especially with industry groups
proposing new limits on embodied carbon for building projects. These could eventually become part of the Building Regulations. Here’s what you need to know about why embodied carbon is such a problem within the construction industry and how it could be regulated in the future.
Buildings emit carbon in all parts of their life: materials, construction, operation, demolition and removal. This is referred to as their whole life carbon emissions. While operational carbon refers to the amount of carbon emitted once a building is in use, embodied
carbon refers solely to its construction, generated through production, transport, use and disposal of a material.
The construction industry has got its head round operational carbon and there’s generally a good understanding of reducing operational energy demand and using lower carbon energy sources. But there is work to be done and those planning a self-build need to become more aware of embodied carbon in the future. According to data from the United Nations Environment Programme, the manufacturing of building materials creates 11% of global greenhouse gas emissions.
Turn to page 74 to read all about this carbon negative custom build site, built by Greencore Construction.
Most embodied carbon is expressed as ‘cradle to gate’ — the emissions caused by extraction (the cradle), transport and processing of raw materials, and manufacturing of the product, to the point it leaves the factory (the gate). Building materials, transport and construction activities are very carbon intensive. We also call these upfront carbon emissions.
Embodied carbon is usually expressed as kg CO2 per kg of material. This isn’t the easiest
Architect Paul Testa explains the problem of embodied carbon within construction and why self-builders should be aware of new proposals from the industryPAUL TESTA IMAGE: GRAHAM GAUNT
format to get to grips with, as materials have very different densities and are used in significantly different quantities in a building. The highest carbon intensity materials are steel and concrete (cement). Materials such as timber and other bio-based materials are typically much lower in carbon. There has always been an argument that many high carbon materials are very durable, so they spread this carbon over a very long life, and while this is true, the immediate carbon impact is so critical right now, this needs to be a secondary consideration.
There are no current legal limits for embodied carbon, but industry proposals are in place for a new Building Regulations document Part Z, which would provide mandatory assessments and reporting of ‘whole life’ carbon. Under the proposal, construction firms would need to assess and report on whole life carbon on all non-residential projects over 1,000m² from 2023 and residential projects from 2025.
It is not totally clear what this would mean for self-builders, but I would expect, when any limits are then set,
that most self-builders will be able to comfortably adapt their designs to achieve these limits without significant compromise. It may make slightly more carbon-intensive construction approaches, such as those with lots of steel or concrete, more tricky, but there will still be lots of flexibility.
The best approach is to calculate the embodied carbon of your project and do what you can to minimise this. Not many consultants do this, and the data isn’t always easy to obtain, but it is worth trying if you can.
You can take a simple best practice ‘rule of thumb’ approach for designing buildings with low embodied carbon:
● Use as little of anything as is required to fulfil its role, including timber
● Reduce steel and concrete to the minimum if you can
● Use bio-based materials where you can: timber, straw, wood fibre and clay are all low carbon and easy to work with
● Try to use products that have dual (or more) functions to reduce the number of materials.
You could also consider reducing the complexity in your home’s design (structural complexity, especially, tends to push concrete or steel solutions) and consider how big you need to build.
When they’re grown, bio-based materials absorb atmospheric carbon. This is called sequestration. Designers often like to include the negative carbon balance of the carbon sequestered in their embodied carbon calculations as it can lead to projects being described as carbon negative. However, if you ask yourself if there’s less carbon in the atmosphere because a material has been used in a building, the answer will always be ‘no’.
Ultimately, at the very end of the material’s life, the carbon will be re-emitted into the atmosphere if the product is burnt or when it rots. So it’s better to take the figures where this isn’t included.
“Those planning a self-build may need to become more aware of embodied carbon in the future”
Building materials, transportation and the construction process are all carbon intensive.IMAGE: GREENCORE CONSTRUCTION / GRAHAM GAUNT
Original windows, wooden floorboards and loft spaces — all these charming features are synonymous with terraced homes but over time it’s worth investing in ways to prevent draughts, improve thermal efficiency and airtightness to create a comfortable, well-insulated home
In the second part of this new series we look at how you can make a 19th-century terrace home more energy efficient. And we’ve asked four building and energy experts for their suggestions: Marianne Suhr, a chartered building surveyor specialising in old homes and the co-author of Old House Eco Handbook published by Quarto Group; heating and energy expert David Hilton; Paul Ciniglio, refurbishment lead for the National Energy Foundation; and
Up and down the UK there are millions of 19th-century terraced houses — and despite their rather chilly and draughty reputation, there’s plenty that can be done to reduce energy bills in this type of property. We’ve broken down into categories the different steps you can take – from what you can do with the modest
amount of £200, such as draughtproofing, right up to £20,000 plus, where you can start to look into wall insulation and solar panels – so there’s something for everyone to work with.
For the purposes of this article we’ve assumed that the property is a mid-terrace, with gas central heating and nine-inch-thick solid brick walls, and that it has had little or no energyefficiency measures.
First the good news. “The great thing about a mid-terrace is that you have very little external wall area to worry about. That means the heat loss is dramatically reduced,” says Marianne
This Victorian house in a Hackney Conservation Area was extended and renovated by Cairn Architects.
As part of the project, new windows, framed in hard-wearing accoya timber, were added to the terraced home.
Insulating the loft is another vital step, and it should be possible to carry this out for £200, if it’s done on a DIY basis, says architect Paul Testa.
If you don’t plan to insulate the loft yourself, and you have a budget of up to £2,000, the first task is to find a professional installer to install at least 270mm of mineral wool insulation or similar in the loft for a cost of around £500. That will save you around £230 a year for a mid-terraced home with gas central heating (based on fuel prices at April 2022).
And if it’s simply a matter of topping up what insulation is already there – say from 120mm to 270mm – a professional installer will charge around £400. You’ll save an extra £20 per year, based on April 2022 fuel prices.
“Any insulation must be vapour open and breathable, such as mineral wool or wood fibre boards, because of the nature of the building materials, as you don’t want to degrade the fabric of the building,” adds David Hilton.
“With insulation comes responsibility for controlled ventilation,” he adds. “Each property will be uniquely different based on occupancy, but make sure you are not increasing humidity levels.”
The next suggestion is from Marianne Suhr. “It’s very important to look at your windows, especially as terraces tend to have large sash windows,” she says. “If you have lovely old windows with handmade glass, they will be giving the house lots of character and to replace them would be a terrible shame.”
Suhr. “Concentrate on the quick wins — the windows, airtightness, loft insulation and the ground floor.”
If you’ve up to £200 to spend, according to the experts you should aim to reduce any draughts on a DIY basis using products like draughtproofing strips and brush strips. “Check for draughts and airtightness, stopping draughts through letterboxes and fitting escutcheon plates over keyholes,” advises Marianne Suhr. “Airtightness is key. On a windy day walk round your house to get a feel for where the draughts are coming from.”
So instead, she advises, you should look for ways to introduce secondary glazing, which costs around £100/m² for the cheaper option of magnetic plastic panels which can be removed in the warmer months.
“If the terrace is on a busy road and the windows at the front are hardly ever open, then a toughened glass magnetic lift-out system would be ideal. If these are fitted well, they can even outperform double glazing in terms of insulation, draughtproofing and acoustic insulation in some instances, and there will be a reduction in traffic noise too. For rooms where windows are opened all year round, or provide fire escape, then an openable secondary system is required.
“And if money is short, you can add secondary glazing to just the windows in the rooms that you heat the most — other rooms, such as a spare bedroom, can just be kept ticking over.”
For a more generous £20,000 budget Marianne recommends having a proper energy efficiency assessment carried out to get proper impartial advice.
The National Energy Foundation (NEF) for example, will carry out such an assessment (expect to pay around £500) that will help you prioritise your budget and set out a phased plan that you can follow as time and budget allows.
Paul Ciniglio explains: “Every house is different, so it is definitely worth considering a proper assessment. For our assessments, a qualified retrofit coordinator would visit your house and draw up a plan to show where best to spend your money and what payback you can expect.”
It’s likely that the assessment will identify the key areas of windows, loft and floor insulation, and airtightness.
“None of these, as long as you consider ventilation as well as airtightness, should give any major moisture risk but they will deliver much greater comfort and
reduced energy bills,” says Paul Testa.
Should homeowners consider wall insulation? Possibly, say Paul Ciniglio and Marianne Suhr — but care is needed.
“External wall insulation is rarely suitable on a terraced row as it spoils the overall streetscape, and in a terraced
renewable energy technologies and energy storage to the mix. If you only have a tiny garden, which may be too small for an air source heat pump, it makes much more sense to install solar panels on a south-facing roof, suggests Marianne Suhr.
house, the amount of heat lost through the bricks is a tiny amount compared to windows and doors,” explains Marianne.
“Internal wall insulation may be something to consider, but it can be fraught with difficulties and there are many cases of internal wall insulation carried out by non-specialists that now need to be stripped off because the work led to mould or trapped moisture. It can also cause a lot of damage to original features such as architraves, skirting boards and cornices.
“There are lots of extra costs here so never embark on them unless you have specialist impartial advice.”
For budgets over £20,000 consider adding
An average solar PV array will cost around £6,500 with different annual savings of up to £500 a year, depending on factors such as whether the home is occupied during the day (the best case scenario) or evenings only.
Adds David Hilton: “Check how many panels you could put on your roof, as it may be quite a small area, and also look at regulating how you use your energy.”
To help with this, David suggests installing a thermal heat ‘battery’ at a cost of between £2,000 and £5,000. “The store is compact, so it would fit easily into a terraced home. The energy stored could be used to heat your home and hot water using off-peak electricity from the national grid, as well as energy from your solar panels.”
Installed on the interior of existing windows, secondary glazing, like this from Architectural Bronze Casements, can help increase thermal performance and acoustics. Some types can be fixed, openable and removable.
Terraced roofs are notoriously narrow so it’s worth figuring out how many panels would fit on there versus how much energy it would generate for them to be a viable option for your home.
“Look for ways to introduce secondary glazing, which costs around £100/m2 for the cheaper option of magnetic plastic panels that can be removed in the warmer months”
This farmstead on the outskirts of East Kilbride dates back to 1788 and by the time the new owners approached Loader Monteith Architects, it was in a state of serious disrepair. “Some of the buildings were declared unsafe and closed off completely,” says director Iain Monteith.
The solution was to replace the original dilapidated buildings with a low-carbon, energy-efficient family home arranged around a courtyard in a U shape. “It has a central space that’s sheltered from the weather but still has incredible views of the valley,” says Iain.
Passive environmental factors form the backbone of the design. The external boundary of the house is oriented to the south and features large spans of glass, all triple glazed. The thermal fabric is highly efficient thanks to the super-insulated triple pitched roof and
the insulating metal cladding system.
Where possible, passive solar gain is used to heat the home. “The sun warms up the reclaimed brick flooring, which then emits heat slowly, lowering overall energy usage,” says Iain. This setup is supplemented by an air source heat pump and electric underfloor heating.
As well as serving a practical purpose, the brick flooring adds visual flair. “Our clients hand-cleaned over 4,000 bricks reclaimed from the original masonry. The resulting herringbone floor provides great thermal mass for storing and disseminating heat.”
Using reclaimed materials boosts sustainability credentials, too. “Reusing existing building materials is an excellent way to conserve your budget, reduce overall waste and use materials that are of their place to instantly create character,” says Iain.
