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WELCOME TO OUR HOME Erin and Ben Napier share their historic Mississippi hideout

OLD-SCHOOL SWEET POTATO DESSERTS THE ALLURE OF LOUISVILLE OUR MOST FAMOUS CHEESECAKE THE BEST TURKEY YOU’LL EVER TASTE

21 Recipes for a Perfectly

Southern Thanksgiving

N OV E M B E R 2 0 2 2

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Nothing’s scarier than a house without

Contents

N OV E M B E R 202 2

Sweet Potato Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting recipe, p. 81

66

74

82

Home Town History

The Sweetest Comeback

A Big Easy Thanksgiving

Erin and Ben Napier have renovated a lot of houses in Laurel, Mississippi.

This time, it’s their own.

The humble sweet potato has been a hero of Southern desserts for ages.

Here are a few delicious reminders.

Inspired by his mother’s epic holiday feasts, New Orleans chef Kevin Belton cooks a small-scale meal with the same generous spirit.

SOUTHE R N L I VI NG 5

Contents

In Season

Bounty

13 Brussels sprouts have become the shining stars of the holidays.

In Her Shoes

16 Entrepreneur Christa Cotton is revolutionizing at-home cocktails.

20 Skip the guessing game of where to sit, and offer guests a personalized touch with place cards.

Giving Back

22 New Orleans chef Emeril Lagasse

6 NOVEM B ER / 2022

57 13

87

20

26 Healthy and happy pets

What’s In Store

At Home

Let’s Celebrate

33 For Keith Smythe Meacham and her extended family, there’s nothing more meaningful than

33

is raising a new crop of young cooks through his school gardens and teaching kitchens. enjoying the holiday together at their home in the Tennessee mountains. in search of exciting new surprises in Louisville, Kentucky.

Picture of Health

The Kitchen

Southern Tails

42 Secrets to a good life Holiday

The Grapevine The Grumpy Gardener

31 Find out what Southerners are buzzing about.

48 Our gardening expert alleviates your growing pains.

Home School

53 Lessons in Southern decorating

87 Make your crowd feel welcome with foolproof Thanksgiving recipes designed to impress.

Save Room going with a proteinpacked make-ahead breakfast of Cheesy Mushroom-Spinach Mini Frittatas.

Healthy in a Hurry

112 If you’re sick of sandwiches, use up leftovers in a seasonal Turkey-andPersimmon Salad.

Cooking School

The South

108 For retired Test Kitchen Professional Pam Lolley as well as countless others, this decadent cheesecake is an annual tradition.

Long Weekend

Over Easy

Recipe Index 115

57 Spend three days

110 Get the day

Southern Journal 116

114 Tips and tricks from the South’s most trusted kitchen

In Every Issue

Life at SL 8

cover photograph by LARSEN TALBERT styling by LIZ STRONG

hair and makeup by MELISSA HAYES

Southern Living (ISSN 0038-4305) November 2022, Vol. 57/Issue 9, is published monthly except for combined issues in January/February and June/July by TI Inc. Lifestyle Group, a subsidiary of Meredith Operations Corporation. Principal Office: 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209. Periodicals postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Non-Postal and Military Facilities: Send address corrections to Southern Living Magazine, P.O. Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement # 40069223. BN # 13200211RT001. ©2022 Meredith Operations Corporation.

All Rights Reserved. For syndication or international licensing requests, email syndication.generic@dotdashmdp.com. For reprint and reuse permission, email mmc.permissions@dotdashmdp.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. “Southern Living” and “Southern Journal” are registered trademarks of Meredith Operations Corporation. Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24/7 service, please use our website: southernliving.com/myaccount. You can also call 800/272-4101 or write Southern Living Magazine, P.O. Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Allow 6 to 8 weeks for change of address. Mailing List: We make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you prefer that we not include your name, please call or write us. (See Customer Service and Subscriptions, above.) Address all correspondence to Southern Living, 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209; 800/272-4101. SOUTHERN LIVING is staff produced and cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material. Printed in the U.S.A.

N OV E M B E R 202 2

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Life at SL

“Always have an attitude of gratitude.” —STERLING K. BROWN

Something Old, Something New Erin and Ben Napier tap into history to build a bright future

I woke up early one morning and drove down to Laurel, Mississippi, to spend some time with Erin and Ben Napier (pictured with me above) at their new place in the country. If you don’t know them, Ben and Erin star in a show on HGTV called Home Town, which is all about their mission to revive Laurel one house at a time. Over six seasons, they have helped people renovate 90 homes, with an emphasis on historic properties that have plenty of character and charm. Along with their efforts to reenergize the downtown, open new shops, and support local businesses, the show has had a transformational effect on Laurel, making it one of the hottest tourist destinations in the whole state.

Their latest project is special because they renovated this house for themselves (turn to “Home Town History” on page 66)—a 1930s F EW M ON THS AGO,

A

8 NOVEM B ER / 2022

brick Tudor located on what used to be a chicken farm. They’d been looking for a place where their girls (Helen, 4, and Mae, 1) could play in the dirt, spend more time outside, and hopefully stay off their screens. They also wanted room to host and entertain family and friends, especially during the holidays. To make it feel like home, Erin arranged dozens of old photos in the entrance hall and hung her daughters’ colorful artwork in the stairwell.

They’d only been there a few months when I visited, but it already felt comfortable, with lots of exposed wooden beams, furniture they’d collected over the years, and treasured heirlooms. As they’ve done so many times on the show, they made an old house feel new again.

After the tour, we took Ben’s vintage Jeep Wagoneer to get cheeseburgers and fried dill pickles at the Phillips Drive-In (known locally as PDI), a beloved Laurel institution that’s been around since opening as a Dairy Queen in 1948. Then we headed to the Lauren Rogers Museum of Art, which houses one of the most extensive collections in the state inside a gorgeous historic building shaded by giant oak trees. Erin worked at the museum in high school, and she seemed to know every piece in there, from the intricate Native American baskets to the paintings by Winslow Homer and Albert Bierstadt. Although she must have seen the exhibits countless times, she showed off each one with all the enthusiasm of a kid at Disney World.

It’s not unusual for Southerners to love old things, but Ben and Erin have also turned that into a vision for the future. I hope you’ll find some inspiration in their home, their story, and their town.

Sid Evans, Editor in Chief sid@southernliving.com

What’s in Your Recipe Box? We’re cooking up a special issue for next fall and would love for you to be a part of it. All you have to do is share your cherished family favorites for autumn entertaining with us. Snap a quick picture of a beloved butter-stained recipe card or type up your most requested original dishes, and email them to us at recipebox @southernliving.com. We’ll review, test, and taste the best of them and include our top picks in a cookbook-style collection in the magazine.

Just remember to make sure the recipes are original, great for fall entertaining, and (of course) deliciously Southern.

Need help with your subscription? Visit southern

living.com/myaccount, or call 800/272-4101.

Preservation in a new light.

December 1-4, 2022 Tickets available at illuminationcharleston.

Join Historic Charleston Foundation, Explore Charleston, and Southern Living for Illumination Charleston, a weekend of events celebrating the holiday season through Southern culture, preservation, and design inspiration. $Čÿēŗ¯ijóĻÓʵijĬÓÉóŢ̄ɯÏÓijóéČÓį¯ŔóéČÓĻĻÓij¯°Ļ¯ĻïÓ¯ɽʄɾɼij¯ ó ÓČʵ}ïÓĻĻ¯?ēŀijÓ¯ZŀijÓŀċ ¯°¯ijÓČij°ĻóēČ°ą¯aĬÓČóČé¯[óéïĻ¯z°įĻŗ¯ ïēijĻÓϯÈŗ¯?óijĻēįóɯ ï°įąÓijĻēČ¯8ēŀČÏ°ĻóēČ ¯ ÓijóéČ¯óČ¯ZóČϯijÓįóÓij¯°Ļ¯ĻïÓ¯ïóijĻēįóɯ ÓÉēČϯzįÓijÈŗĻÓįó°Č¯ ïŀįÉï ¯ Historic Holiday Decor and History Tours of downtown Charleston, and much much more!

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Behind the Scenes

Editor in Chief Sid Evans

VP/Group Publisher Deirdre Finnegan

Executive Creative Director Robert Perino

VP, Brand Marketing Jennifer Staiman

Executive Editor, General Manager Krissy Tiglias

Associate Publisher Andrea Rogan

Director of Photography Jeanne Dozier Clayton

ADVERTISING SALES

Pam Lolley FORMER TEST KITCHEN P RO F E S S I ONA L Pam Lolley has developed hundreds of recipes, including many coverworthy desserts, since she joined the Southern Living Test Kitchen in 2003.

She retired earlier this year, so now her friends and family are benefiting from her outstanding baking skills.

EDITORI AL

New York Account Directors Steven Cardello,

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CONSUMER MARKETING

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Senior News Writer Meghan Overdeep

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PRODUCTION

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E D I TO RS AT L A RG E

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Adrian Miller WRITER

Editorial Director Jill Waage

Sheri Castle, Elly Poston Cooper, Jessica B. Harris,

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Elizabeth Heiskell, Robert Moss, Elizabeth Passarella,

Executive Editor Jessica Thuston

Ann Taylor Pittman

Design Director Tempy Segrest

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James Beard Award-winning food writer Adrian Miller is a certified barbecue judge and attorney living in Denver, Colorado. He’s featured in the Netflix hit High on the Hog: How African American Cuisine Transformed America. His most recent book is Black Smoke: African Americans and the United States of Barbecue.

10 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

Research Director Bridget Sellers

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DOTDASH MEREDITH FOOD STUDIOS VP, Content Studios Allison Lowery Photography Director Sheri Wilson Test Kitchen Director Katie Barreira Operations Editor Callie Nash President, Lifestyle Alysia Borsa

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In Season

BOUNTY

The Mighty Sprout Brown Sugar-Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon (recipe, page 14)

by LISA CERICOLA photographs by ANTONIS ACHILLEOS

Move over, string beans.

These cold-weather vegetables have become the unsung heroes of the holidays

SOUTHE R N L I VI NG 13

BOUNTY

PREPPED & READY Trim and discard dry stems and outer leaves before using sprouts.

Brussels Sprout Spoon Bread

ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 5 MIN. - SERVES 8

Best Buds Brussels sprouts are in the same family as cabbages, though they are not baby cabbages.

They actually grow as buds on woody stalks.

14 N OVEM B ER / 2022

Crispy Smashed Brussels Sprouts Preheat oven to 425°F. Place 2 lb. trimmed fresh Brussels sprouts in a large microwavable bowl with 1⁄4 cup water. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and microwave on HIGH until just tender, 6 to 8 minutes.

Carefully remove and discard plastic wrap; drain. Place cooked Brussels sprouts on a large-rimmed baking sheet. Using flat bottom of a measuring cup or mug, smash each Brussels sprout, and pat dry with paper towels. Drizzle evenly with 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, and sprinkle evenly with 2 1⁄2 tsp. minced fresh garlic, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄4 tsp. black pepper; toss to coat. Bake 10 minutes. Remove from oven, and sprinkle with 1⁄3 cup grated Parmesan cheese. Bake until cheese is melted and set, about 5 minutes. Using a spatula, transfer Brussels sprout mixture to a serving platter.

Garnish with fresh thyme leaves.

ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN. - SERVES 8

from previous page

Brown Sugar-Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon Cook 2 slices of thick-cut applewoodsmoked bacon, chopped, in a large castiron skillet over medium-high, stirring often, until fat has rendered and bacon is crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer bacon to a paper towel-lined plate, reserving drippings in skillet. Reduce heat to medium, and add 1 lb. fresh Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved, to skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender and charred in spots, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in cooked bacon, 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar, 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, 3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt, 1⁄4 tsp. black pepper, and 1⁄4 cup chopped pecans until butter melts.

ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 20 MIN. - SERVES 4

ILLUSTRATION: KENDYLL HILLEGAS

Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt 1⁄2 cup unsalted butter in a large skillet over medium-high.

Add 1 1⁄4 cups chopped sweet onion; cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer onion mixture to a large bowl. Melt 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in skillet over mediumhigh. Add 12 oz. fresh Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved, to skillet, cut side down. Cook without stirring until browned, about 2 minutes. Flip sprouts over, and remove from heat; set aside. Whisk 1 (8 1⁄2-oz.) pkg. corn muffin mix, 1 (14 1⁄4-oz.) can cream-style corn, 1 cup sour cream, and 3 large eggs into cooked onion mixture in bowl until combined. Coat a 13- x 9-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Pour batter into prepared baking dish. Top with cooked Brussels sprouts, cut side up. Bake until puffed and golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Serve immediately.

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HAPPY HOUR Christa Cotton helms the drinks brand El Guapo.

I N H ER S H O ES

Mover and Shaker Inspired by her New Orleans surrounds, Christa Cotton is revolutionizing at-home cocktails S A C H ILD, Christa Cotton soaked up her parents’ entrepreneurial experiences like some kids do fairy tales. “Other people said, ‘I’m going to be a police officer,’ ” recalls Christa, CEO of the cocktail brand El Guapo. “I always wanted to be like my dad.” In college, she worked in the family business and realized that her true dream was to strike out on her own. She moved to New Orleans and, after years in advertising, decided to take the plunge. In 2017, she bought the El Guapo

A

16 N OVEM B ER / 2022

trademark from a local bartender and began developing her line of bitters, syrups, and mixers. Two years in, she struck gold: a 24-store deal with Costco. But then the pandemic hit, bumping her product from shelves, and Christa began studying bankruptcy websites. Almost simultaneously, her own website unexpectedly took off. As restaurants shuttered, the home bar made a comeback and El Guapo sales skyrocketed. Christa’s business is now a success, and she’s set to open the country’s first bitters brewery.

Here, the cocktail queen talks life in the Crescent City.

by BETSY CRIBB photographs by CEDRIC ANGELES

LOCATION: BAR MARILOU; HAIR STYLING : JARED LANDRY; MAKEUP: KRIST EN KIEFER; WARDROBE STYLING: CELENE HERRING/PILOT AND POWELL; MANICURIST: MORGAN DIXON; DRESS: GANNI; EARRINGS: COLVILLE ; RIN GS: RING CONCIERGE

IN SEASON

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• have recently received or are scheduled to receive any vaccinations.

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APPROVED USE • TEZSPIRE is a prescription medicine used with other asthma medicines for the maintenance treatment of severe asthma in people 12 years of age and older whose asthma is not controlled with their current asthma medicine.

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TEZSPIRE is a trademark of Amgen Inc. and AstraZeneca. ©2022 AstraZeneca. All rights reserved. US-61893 4/22

I M P O R TA N T

I N F O R M AT I O N

A B O U T

T E Z S P I R E

What is TEZSPIRE?

What are the possible side effects of TEZSPIRE?

TEZSPIRE is a prescription medicine used with other asthma medicines for the maintenance treatment of severe asthma in people 12 years of age and older whose asthma is not controlled with their current asthma medicine.

TEZSPIRE may cause serious side effects, including:

TEZSPIRE helps prevent severe asthma attacks (exacerbations) and can improve your breathing.

TEZSPIRE is not used to treat sudden breathing problems. Tell your healthcare provider if your asthma does not get better or if it gets worse after you start treatment with TEZSPIRE. It is not known if TEZSPIRE is safe and effective in children under 12 years of age.

Do not receive TEZSPIRE if you: t BSF BMMFSHJD UP UF[FQFMVNBC PS BOZ PG UIF JOHSFEJFOUT JO TEZSPIRE. See the end of this Patient Information leaflet for a complete list of ingredients in TEZSPIRE. Before you receive TEZSPIRE, tell your healthcare provider about all of your medical conditions, including if you: t IBWF FWFS IBE B TFWFSF BMMFSHJD SFBDUJPO IZQFSTFOTJUJWJUZ t have a parasitic (helminth) infection. t have recently received or are scheduled to receive any live attenuated vaccinations. People who receive TEZSPIRE should not receive live attenuated vaccines. t BSF QSFHOBOU UIJOL ZPV NBZ CF QSFHOBOU PS QMBO UP CFDPNF pregnant. It is not known if TEZSPIRE may harm your unborn baby. t are breastfeeding or plan to breastfeed. It is not known if TEZSPIRE passes into your breast milk. Talk to your healthcare provider about the best way to feed your baby if you receive TEZSPIRE. Tell your healthcare provider about all the medicines you take, including prescription and over-the-counter medicines, vitamins, and herbal supplements.

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How will I receive TEZSPIRE? t :PVS IFBMUIDBSF QSPWJEFS XJMM HJWF ZPV 5&;41*3& JO B IFBMUIDBSF setting. t 5&;41*3& JT JOKFDUFE VOEFS ZPVS TLJO TVCDVUBOFPVTMZ UJNF every 4 weeks. t *G ZPV NJTT BO BQQPJOUNFOU BTL ZPVS IFBMUIDBSF QSPWJEFS XIFO to schedule your next treatment.

For more information, visit TEZSPIRE.com Or call 1-800-236-9933

t severe allergic reactions. Call your healthcare provider or get emergency medical care if you get any of the following symptoms of allergic reaction: o rash o breathing problems o hives o red, itchy, swollen, or inflamed eyes The most common side effects of TEZSPIRE include: t TPSF UISPBU QIBSZOHJUJT t KPJOU QBJO BSUISBMHJB t CBDL QBJO These are not all of the possible side effects of TEZSPIRE. $BMM ZPVS EPDUPS GPS NFEJDBM BEWJDF BCPVU TJEF FGGFDUT :PV NBZ report side effects to FDA at 1-800-FDA-1088.

General information about the safe and effective use of TEZSPIRE Medicines are sometimes prescribed for purposes other than those MJTUFE JO B 1BUJFOU *OGPSNBUJPO MFBGMFU :PV DBO BTL ZPVS QIBSNBDJTU or healthcare provider for information about TEZSPIRE that is written for health professionals.

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Manufactured by: "TUSB;FOFDB "# 4PEFSUBMKF 4XFEFO 4& 64 -JDFOTF /P "U "NHFO *OD 0OF "NHFO $FOUFS %SJWF 5IPVTBOE 0BLT $" Marketed by: Amgen Inc. and AstraZeneca AB ©AstraZeneca and Amgen 2021 TEZSPIRE is a trademark of Amgen Inc. For more information, go to https://www.TEZSPIRE.com PS DBMM *TTVFE 64

WHERE I FIND INSPIRATION FOR EL GUAPO “We try to stick with flavors that speak to this region. I am influenced by South Georgia, where I grew up, and also by New Orleans. We make an orgeat [syrup] with pecans and create bitters made with chicory coffee from one of our purveyors here in town. More often than not, the ingredients we gravitate toward and experiment with originated in the South.”

HOW I WELCOME GUESTS “My house drink depends on the season. I love a rose cordial, which is a product we make, with Champagne or nonalcoholic sparkling grape juice. I believe it’s thoughtful to have options for people who choose to abstain from alcohol for myriad reasons.

Having an inclusive bar is the next big thing in the cocktail world.”

HA IR COLO R: BRETT RUSSO; DRESS : STINE GOYA; BELT: ISA BE L MARAN T

OUR DATE NIGHT SPOTS

BY THE BOOK Christa at Bar Marilou, which is in a former library

“So many of the restaurants here are our clients. My partner, Brian, and I are like Switzerland and support everyone. Plus, all of the food is delicious. If a place is not good in New Orleans, it doesn’t stay open very long. When we want to spend some quiet time in a restau- A FAVORITE THANKSGIVING DISH rant, we’ll book a tasting menu. We’ve gotten to be close to the “My grandmother had some signature recipes, like the pineapple team behind Saint-Germain in the Bywater [neighborhood]. We casserole that’s very popular in the South. Brian’s family is from also love Lengua Madre, which features modern Mexican flavors Illinois; they do the same thing but substitute broccoli for the in the Lower Garden District.” pineapple. When I heard that, I was horrified. But one year for Thanksgiving, we made both and found that they’re each pretty good. It’s fun to be in a relationship with someone who’s not MY SENTIMENTAL KITCHEN ESSENTIAL “I keep a cookbook called A Standing Invitation to Gracious Southern and see his traditions. We do matchups of different Southern Living (which was put together by the Dawson United things, like the pineapple versus the broccoli, to see which is Methodist Women in Georgia) on my counter. It has my grand- better. I still say it’s the pineapple, but he would argue.” mother’s notes. All of the handwritten recipes I took to college are in there. If we’re in New Orleans for a holiday, we try to cook WHY I’LL NEVER LEAVE NEW ORLEANS out of this book because it reminds me of home.”

“I tried to move back to Georgia once, and it was hard for me.

Returning [to this city], I swore I’d never leave again. Now that I have a little girl, my parents always ask, ‘What would it take to get you to move home?’ And I always say, Coming Up Roses ‘I’ll leave here one more time, and it’ll be Make Christa’s go-to Champagne Cocktail at home when I’m horizontal.’ I love it. I love Mardi Pour 3 oz. chilled Champagne into a Champagne flute.

Gras and all the traditions. You can find Gently top with 8 dashes El Guapo Love Potion Bitters and me wearing glitter, sequins, and feathers— 1 tsp. El Guapo Rose Cordial. Place a skewer of 6 fresh and rainbow is my favorite color. New raspberries inside the glass, and stir once to combine.

Orleans is a piece and a part of me.”

Serve drink immediately.

SOUTHE R N LI VI NG 19

IN SEASON

W H AT ’S I N STO RE

Find Your Place Skip the guessing game of where to sit, and welcome guests with a personalized touch

2

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20 N OVEM B ER / 2022

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by PAGE MULLINS photograph by HECTOR MANUEL SANCHEZ

CA LLIGRAPHY: MOLLY THOMAS OF ROSS PAPER CO MPA NY; STYLING: MARY BETH WETZEL

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IN SEASON

GI VI N G BAC K

Planting Good Seeds New Orleans chef Emeril Lagasse is raising a new crop of young cooks through his school gardens and teaching kitchens

HEN

22 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

W

by KIM SUNÉE photograph by CEDRIC ANGELES

PROP STY LING: BUFFY HA RG ETT MILLER; G ROOMING: NATALIE ESSAIE D/ZENOBIA

A PLACE TO GROW Emeril Lagasse with student participants in his Culinary Garden & Teaching Kitchen program

YO U ’ R E

a TV celebrity chef and win $125,000 on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire, what do you do with the money? For New Orleans’ Emeril Lagasse, the answer was easy.

He phoned his friend Sister Lillian McCormack, founder of St. Michael Special School in New Orleans (which is privately funded for students who have intellectual and developmental disabilities), and offered a lifeline in the form of his winnings.

For high-profile chefs, the options for giving back are endless, but that donation 22 years ago was Lagasse’s first taste of what it meant to make a real difference.

Grateful for his enormous success, not only on television but also with his award-winning cookbooks and restaurants throughout the nation, Lagasse (who grew up in Massachusetts and later made a home in New Orleans) found himself in a position to empower and inspire young people. Just two years after his game show win, he launched the Emeril Lagasse Foundation with the aim of mentoring youth through food.

His organization has since granted more than $18 million to children’s charities, supporting nutrition, arts, and culinary programs.

But early on, the chef realized that a major obstacle for young children in the U.S. was a disconnect with food— not knowing where it comes from and not having access to enough good, fresh ingredients. Even kids who do have adequate meals sometimes still believe that juice comes from a carton or carrots from a can. In 2016, Lagasse

THE FRAGRANCE BY GLAD

SUPERIOR STRENGTH.* ALLURING SCENT.

GIVING BACK

24 N OVEM B ER / 2022

Emeril’s Maple-Butter Corn Muffins ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 45 MIN. MAKES 1 DOZEN

11⁄4 1⁄2 2

cups all-purpose flour cup fine yellow cornmeal tsp. baking powder

1⁄2

tsp. baking soda

1⁄2

tsp. kosher salt

2

large eggs

1⁄2

cup whole milk

1⁄2

cup sour cream

1⁄4 cup light brown sugar 3 Tbsp. melted unsalted butter, plus 7 Tbsp. softened unsalted butter, divided 1⁄2 cup, plus 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup, divided

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 12-cup

muffin tray with paper liners; set aside.

2. Whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking

powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl until combined. Whisk together eggs, milk, sour cream, brown sugar, melted butter, and 1⁄2 cup of the syrup in a large bowl until smooth. Add flour mixture to egg mixture; whisk just until incorporated, being careful not to overmix. Divide batter evenly among prepared muffin liners.

3. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven. Let cool in muffin tray 5 minutes.

4. While muffins bake, whisk together

softened butter and remaining 2 tablespoons maple syrup in a small bowl until smooth. Set aside until ready to use.

(Bowl of maple butter may be wrapped tightly with plastic wrap and stored in refrigerator up to 2 weeks.) Serve muffins warm with maple butter.

FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: ANTONIS ACHILLEOS; FOOD STYLING: EMILY NABORS HALL; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINA BROCKMAN

turned his focus to establishing teaching kitchens and edible schoolyards nationwide, and his organization hired Katie Mularz to launch what’s since become its signature outreach: Emeril’s Culinary Garden & Teaching Kitchen. This initiative helps kids in kindergarten through 8th grade learn to seed, harvest, cook, and share the gifts of the garden.

As the program expanded, the team realized that the foundation needed to find a way to engage the parents. They began inviting families to come on Saturdays and harvest what they wanted out of the garden—as long as they did something with the food at home that included the child. “Having the support of the family when the kid is out of the classroom is crucial,” says Lagasse.

At Dr. John Ochsner Discovery Health Sciences Academy, one of the partner sites, seventh grader Nakira is gaining useful know-how as well as confidence in the kitchen. “She loves learning cooking techniques, which she then teaches her father and me,” says her mother, Raina Edwards. They frequently make one of Nakira’s favorite dishes, yakamein (a beloved local noodle soup spiced with Creole seasoning); each family often has its own secret ingredient. “The program has changed the way we cook,” says Edwards. “We have decreased the amount of processed meals we eat and make a lot more fresh food together at home.”

Emeril’s Culinary Garden & Teaching Kitchen program currently has six official partner schools across the country, from Washington, D.C., to California, with the hopes of reaching more, especially as others see the impact it has had on whole communities. But even with nothing left to prove, the chef remains committed to mentoring the next generation of cooks, gardeners, and teachers. And he knows it’s not solely up to him. Everyone can give back in small ways, he says, particularly when it comes to investing in people. “Volunteer your time; be present,” says Lagasse.

“You don’t have to have means in order to have meaning.”

BAKING 101 Let your kids help make this easy fall recipe.

Providing comfort, care, and kindness when it matters most.

Learn More at RMHC.org

©2022 RMHC

S O U T H E R N TA I L S

PET OF THE MONTH

Instagram

@whiskeytoller Age

1 1⁄2 years Hometown

Arlington, Virginia Into the Wild

Crunch!

The explorer has romped on both coasts and in Yosemite National Park. “If Whiskey could hike every day, she would,” says owner Amber Aquart.

Wag! Repeat! e any me treat w h sty real meat

Art Smarts

“Whiskey’s latest painting raised over $180 for a special-needs pet rescue fund,” Aquart says.

A Star Is Born Meet a down-to-earth canine destined for the spotlight H E N YOU R big break comes before your first birthday, some might say it was meant to be. “I brought Whiskey home with the intention of training her for TV work from day one,” says owner Amber Aquart, a celebrated pet trainer in Arlington, Virginia. Luckily, Nova Scotia duck tolling retrievers like Whiskey are quick learners. In a few short months, the spunky pup snagged starring roles in several ads, including a 2021 L.L.Bean Christmas commercial that cemented her status as a showbiz star. “I think the world fell in love with her personality and sweet disposition on-screen,” says Aquart.

But acting isn’t the only trick Whiskey has under her paw (in fact, she knows over 100 more). The jack-of-all-trades excels in many activities, from painting (seriously!) to competitive dog sports (like dock diving) to paddleboarding on the Potomac. She has also worked as a service animal and is currently training to become a bona fide lifesaver, learning skills like retrieving medication and calling for help. Puppy perfection? Perhaps. But this dog has stayed incredibly humble through it all. “Whiskey is a ball of fun, silliness, and joy,” Aquart says. “She’s just as sweet and adorable in person as she appears on TV.”

Mul ple Treat Sizes Available

26 NOV E MBE R / 2022

by MARISA SPYKER

COURTESY @WHISKEY TO LLER

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Our Promise to Blue Is Our Promise to You

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THE GRAPEVINE W H AT

S O U T H E R N E R S

A R E

B U Z Z I N G

A B O U T

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY SCHERMER P ECANS ; CHRISTIAN HARDER (2); COURTESY JOYFUL HEART WINE CO. (2)

Charleston’s New Hideaway

SP OT LI G H T

Pecan Flour for Your Pantry A Georgia farmer introduces a new way to bake without gluten Just in time for fall tailgates and holiday get-togethers, Thomasville, Georgia’s Schermer Pecans has released its first ever pecan flour. “I had heard that a chef was making hush puppies out of pecan meal, and I couldn’t get it out of my mind,” says Putt Wetherbee, the fifth-generation grower behind the brand. “Pecan flour had been on my to-do list, but the idea of hush puppies lit a fire.” Made of finely ground pecans

harvested from the family’s orchards, the flour is naturally free of grains and gluten, so it helps make beloved family dishes more accessible to those who have certain dietary sensitivities. “I’m going to incorporate it into our stuffing and biscuit recipes,” says Wetherbee. “I’ve got some homemade mayhaw jelly that I can’t wait to put on a batch of hot biscuits.” Pecan Flour and Natural Halves, from $45; schermerpecans.com

A Hostess Gift That Gives Back Joyful Heart Wine Co.: While perhaps best known for her star turn on NBC’s This Is Us, Florida-born actress and singer Chrissy Metz has taken on another role: founder of the Joyful Heart Wine Co. A portion of the proceeds from each bottle goes to World Central Kitchen, a Washington, D.C., nonprofit helmed by chef José Andrés that serves meals to people affected by humanitarian crises and natural disasters around the globe. joyfulheartwine.com

by BETSY CRIBB

The Pinch Hotel: A vacation at this boutique stay in downtown Charleston, South Carolina, starts with a seasonal welcome cocktail. Opened earlier this year in two Victorian-era buildings and a recently constructed one, The Pinch makes the most of its built-in blend of old and new. The hotel’s 22 rooms and suites feature curated artwork and fully equipped kitchens and kitchenettes. Stop by the lobby in the morning to grab a cup of coffee and sample locally baked pastries, and then borrow a bicycle from the front desk to explore the Holy City on two wheels. thepinch.com

SOUTHE R N L I VI NG 3 1

B E A U T I F U L S PA C E S F O R A BETTER LIFE

At Home

LET’S CELEBRAT E

A Tennessee Thanksgiving For Keith Smythe Meacham and her family, there’s nothing more meaningful than spending the holiday in the mountains

BY ELIZABETH HUTCHISON HICKLIN

FIRESIDE CHATS The living room hearth in this 1930s Sewanee home makes a cozy place to relax after the meal.

photographs by LAUREY W. GLENN styling by BUFFY HARGETT MILLER

SOUTHE R N LIVI NG 3 3

L E T ’ S C E L E B R AT E

of the South has been a central part of my life for as long as I can remember,” says Keith Smythe Meacham, cofounder of Reed Smythe & Company, the Nashville-based home-andgarden shop she started with the late author Julia Reed. “It’s where my parents met in the 1960s, so my sister and I grew up visiting all our lives.” Following family tradition, Keith met her husband, Jon, there in 1988 when she was a high school senior and he was assigned to show her around the campus.

“To make a very long story short, he gave me this lovely tour of Sewanee, but I ended up deciding to go to the University of Virginia,” she says. And while she didn’t fall for the school, she did for the guide.

The two became pen pals, exchanging long-distance letters for the next five years until they both ended up in Washington, D.C. They married a few years later and moved to New York City, but it wasn’t until they had their second child that Sewanee reentered their lives in a meaningful way.

“I had this itch to move back to the

“SEWANEE: THE UNIVERSITY

3 4 N OVEM B ER / 2022

South,” she says. “But Jon was working at Newsweek, so it wasn’t in the cards right away.” Summers in Sewanee proved to be a happy compromise. They later bought a handsome Georgian Revival home on campus. The five-bedroom brick stunner was built in the early 1930s and once belonged to the headmaster at the old Sewanee Military Academy. “We’ve now had the house for 16 years and love to pack it full of our friends and family,” she says. “This is really the home where our children have grown up. In addition to summers, we spent every Thanksgiving, Christmas, and spring break of our kids’ young lives here.”

The family of five relocated to Nashville nearly a decade ago, but they continue to spend most holidays in the mountains.

Here, Keith opens her home to share a few time-tested entertaining tips, ideas for freshening up your Thanksgiving table, and some of the Meacham family’s most treasured Turkey Day traditions—from their premeal oysters and Champagne to after-dinner hikes.

FORAGED FLORALS “I’m lucky my mother and sister love to cook, because I prefer to set a pretty table,” says Keith, pictured above right with her sister, May (at left). “It’s a good division of labor.” And although she likes to purchase most of the blooms for her arrangements before leaving the city—she favors Import Flowers Nashville— Keith looks to the land that surrounds the home for seasonal inspiration. “When I make it to Sewanee, I’ll go out and cut branches and other greenery from around the mountain, so there’s some reflection of place,” she explains.

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L E T ’ S C E L E B R AT E

TABLE MATTERS Using a mix of Spode Woodland dinner plates as the anchor, Keith turned to the stockroom at Reed Smythe & Company to complete the display.

Handblown water goblets in deep amethyst add a punch of color but play well with the plates’ subdued earth tones. Focusing on natural materials and organic lines, she added North Carolina-made Stick Candles and bronze place card holders in the shape of walnuts. “I think there’s something sweet about making a get-together formal with place cards when it’s just your family,” she says.

Having a round dining table (which is a signature design move for Keith) fosters easy conversation with all the guests.

THE DISH ON DINNERWARE “I love collecting porcelain. Sometimes I’ll see a set of china at an antiques shop, snatch it up, and organize the table around that,” Keith says. At this time of year, she tends to keep things classic, opting for her Spode Woodland pattern. But she still leans into the less expected pieces. “I have the dogs, the rabbits, and the deer,” she says. “I like to go with unusual animals at Thanksgiving—not just the turkeys.”

3 6 N OVEM B ER / 2022

alabama

arkansas colorado

california florida georgia

louisiana mississippi

minnesota north carolina

oklahoma south carolina tennessee texas

vietri.com

SCREEN TIME WE CAN GET BEHIND Although the Meachams spent years gradually renovating the stately Georgian Revival, they did make one immediate change—adding a spacious two-story screened porch off the home’s right side. During the summertime, it serves as both a sleeping porch and the family’s main gathering space. Because it nearly doubles the size of the house, they enjoy it whenever the Tennessee climate allows. “Even in late fall, if it’s not freezing or snowing outside, we use the porch,” Keith notes.

3 8 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

L E T ’ S C E L E B R AT E

FOUR-LEGGED HOSTS The family’s friendly English springer spaniels, Ellie (above) and Clemmie, like to keep warm by the living room’s fireplace.

POSTDINNER PLANS “Jon loves cigars, so there’s usually a moment to smoke after the meal,” Keith says.

Then the party (which includes the Meachams’ three children, Keith’s mother and sister, a few Sewanee friends, and any significant others) adjourns to the living room, where the walls are painted Sap Green, No. W56, by Farrow & Ball. They’ll gather around the large stone fireplace for board games, charades, or a round of spades. Then a hike is in order. “Our house is located on the Sewanee campus, but you can walk about five minutes from our front door to a mountain path,” she says.

Perimeter Trail along the bluffs of the Cumberland Plateau is a family favorite.

SOUTHE R N LIVI NG 3 9

OUR MISSION:

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Produce can add texture and interest to fall displays. “I like pumpkins and other gourds and often fill a big basket with them for the porch,” Keith says, “but there’s something so sophisticated and beautiful about a ripe persimmon at this time of year. I just love that deep orange color.” Pomegranates and lady apples are a few of her other autumnal favorites.

Pro tip: Save sturdy floral stems; they can be used as handy stakes for the fruits.

Purina trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A. 40 NOV E MBE R / 2022

L E T ’ S C E L E B R AT E

AN EASY-ACCESS BAR Keith likes to corral wine and cocktail essentials on a tray on the screened porch. That way, people don’t have to go inside to top off their drinks.

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A CELEBRATORY START She credits her sister’s boyfriend for the meal’s festive kickoff: oysters and Champagne on the porch. “His family always orders a bunch of raw oysters at Thanksgiving and Easter,” Keith says. “Now, we’ve taken that on as part of our tradition.” Adding her own design-minded twist to the custom, she commissioned New Orleans sculptor Ashley Pridmore to create a series of polished bronze knives, which she also sells at Reed Smythe & Company. “The handle looks like an oyster, and it fits perfectly in the palm of your hand,” she says of the piece. It makes a thoughtful hostess gift too.

SOUTHE R N LI V I NG 41

Purina trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.

P I C T U R E O F H E A LT H

SECR E TS TO A G OOD L I F E

Changing the Game This Atlanta resident is giving underserved communities a home-court advantage

4 2 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

HOUSE CALL

A Time of Transition About 6 to 10 years before menopause begins, perimenopause occurs. “The ovaries don’t turn off like a light switch,” says Dr. Stephanie Faubion, medical director of the North American Menopause Society. “They kind of flicker and flutter a bit before they stop working.”

Perimenopause symptoms often come as a surprise.

They can be similar to those associated with menopause, like hot flashes, sleep disturbances, and mood swings.

It’s important to continue using contraception during this phase (if you choose), Faubion notes, as it’s still possible to become pregnant. Find a local provider educated in menopause at menopause.org.

by BETSY CRIBB

FROM LE FT: COURTESY A RT IN THE PAINT; COURTESY DR. STEPHA NIE FAUBION

[we invest in], basketball courts are where everyone goes,” says Arelious Cooper Jr. “They’re places where people have traditionally gathered for fun, whether that be for games or cookouts.”

But when the courts begin crumbling, they tend to deteriorate quickly, he notes. “You’ll go out there and see needles, pipes, and liquor bottles. It’s pretty terrible,” Cooper says. He is on a mission to change that.

Through his Atlanta-based organization Art in the Paint (@artinthepaintorg), he refreshes dilapidated courts around the world, hiring local artists to transform resurfaced concrete into colorful murals.

In addition to larger national partners, the initiative relies on community support as

“ IN T H E N E I G H BO R HOODS

well. “When we are creating the murals, we use a sort of paintby-number system so that anybody in the neighborhood who wants to can get on the schedule and help with the project,” says Cooper. Once the courts are complete, Art in the Paint’s real work begins. They run a safe, free basketball league for kids, and the play spaces double as open-air community centers. “We partner with other organizations [such as UnitedHealthcare and Quest Nutrition] to bring programming to each one we work on, with a focus on STEAM [science, technology, engineering, arts, and math], financial literacy, and mentorship,” he notes. The outreach is not just for the kids. Art in the Paint also hosts voter-registration drives and produce giveaways at their courts to benefit the entire family.

But beyond the league or the workshops, it’s each youth’s newfound pride that Cooper says is the most rewarding part of all. “For at least one moment, they are treated like any other kid,” he explains. “No one cares about how much money they or their parents have.

They get a great outdoor facility and brandnew uniforms; are treated with respect and taught respect; are eating [healthy meals]; and are able to be normal kids without worrying about prequalifiers like race, gender, or anything else. They just get to play.”

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P I C T U R E O F H E A LT H

Table Talk

“People in our lives don’t always know how to appropriately show their concern for us, but we can help them by managing our own responses,” says Andrew Anderson, a licensed professional counselor at LaunchPad Counseling in Richmond, Virginia.

Here’s how to tackle difficult conversations that may arise during holiday gatherings.

WHEN THEY ASK ABOUT TOUCHY POLITICAL TOPICS

WHEN THEY ASK ABOUT YOUR DATING LIFE

WHEN THEY ASK ABOUT YOUR NEXT STEPS

“Know your audience and how far you’re willing to go with the discussion. If you love to debate and it won’t put your partner in an awkward position, then lean all the way in. These conversations will inevitably come up in many households, especially given the politically charged climate we live in. Even so, be careful not to agree to something you don’t believe simply to avoid an argument. That will likely only lead to frustration. Instead, learn to deflect to safer topics if you know these political or religious conversations aren’t going anywhere positive.”

“These types of questions are dangerous because they hit on something that we’re most likely already sensitive about. If single, you can always fall back on the general ‘lack of quality partners’ discussion or the ‘not enough time in my schedule’ assertion.

Be honest, and show confidence. If you’ve focused on a career and dating has taken a back seat, just say that. You also have the right to say, ‘No comment.’ One of the advantages of being an adult is that your personal life can be kept private from anyone you decide—even if they gave birth to you.”

“If you are just entering the workforce, many adults may feel entitled to speak about your life.

Know yourself, and be patient enough to listen if you feel that someone is genuinely trying to help. At other times, their advice might be steeped in an unhelpful mindset or outdated beliefs about the times we live in.

In that case, some education about the current job market may help them set realistic expectations.

Either way, be gracious and humble. Whenever you are new to something, the insight of experienced and trusted people can often be beneficial.”

On the Run First held in Buffalo, New York, in 1896, the annual YMCA Turkey Trot has since become a treasured (or dreaded, if jogging isn’t your thing) Thanksgiving Day tradition across the country. This year, squeeze in your daily cardio and invest in your heart health by signing up for a local fun run; look for an event near you at active.com/turkey-trots.

46 NOV E MBE R / 2022

CHRISTINA MORELAND

Breakfast that loves you back.

How to navigate tricky (and sometimes nosy) questions from well-meaning loved ones

Give your heart a little love. *Three grams of soluble fiber daily from whole grain oat foods, like Honey Nut Cheerios™ cereal, in a diet low in saturated fat and cholesterol, may reduce the risk of heart disease.

Honey Nut Cheerios cereal provides .75 grams per serving.

AT H O M E

THE GRUMPY GARDENER

Elephant’s Ear Emergency I live in Richmond, Virginia, and planted an elephant’s ear bulb in the spring. Can I leave it outside this winter? Or should I dig it up and store it to replant next season?

—LORRAINE

Overwintering an elephant’s ear outdoors in your area is iffy. It might come back but might not. A surer way to save it is to dig up the bulb now; place it inside a small bag; and store it in a cool, dry place indoors until you’re ready to plant next spring when daytime temperatures reach the seventies.

“Fred! You forgot your safety goggles!”

BY ST EV E BE NDE R

DEAR GRUMPY We live in Central Florida, and our avocado tree is 60 feet tall. How can we top the tree so that the avocados don’t hang so high up?

—VICKI

Do you own a helicopter? If so, you could harness up your husband, hand him a chain saw, and lower him down.

What could go wrong? If not, you’ll have to do something boring like hiring a professional tree service to prune it,

4 8 N OVEM B ER / 2022

but you’ll be doing this again and again, as 60 feet is the natural height for regular avocado trees. A better option is to plant a dwarf avocado like ‘Little Cado.’

It grows 10 to 15 feet tall.

Sad-Looking Gardenia I bought a gardenia plant in the summer. It was doing well, but some of the leaves are turning yellow and falling off. Help!

—ISMAEL

Just chill out, buddy. Older foliage of gardenias and other broadleaved evergreens naturally turns yellow and drops during this time of year. But it’ll be replaced come spring.

Burned Up About Snakes My husband said, “The Grumpy Gardener always responds, right?

Ask him if he knows how to deal with snakes in our rock wall.” He’s seen some copperheads near there and is debating whether to burn the whole place down and move to the city. Do you have any suggestions?

—FRANCES

Yes. Before he lights that match, make sure you’ve saved his vintage Carpenters albums as well as his signed Marie Osmond photo. Or maybe consider a solution that doesn’t involve arson.

Copperheads come around for one reason—looking for

illustration by JONATHAN BROWN

THE GRUMPY GARDENER Ask the Grump! No question goes unanswered on his Facebook page: facebook .com/slgrumpygardener.

rodents like rats, mice, and chipmunks to eat. I imagine those critters are finding hiding places in the rock wall or in tall weeds nearby.

Eliminate shelter for the rodents, and the snakes will go elsewhere.

Sowing Hellebores I collected seeds from my hellebores in little bags in the spring. When do you think is a good time to plant them?

Should I start them in pots inside?

—KYLA

Hellebore seeds need winter chilling, so don’t start them inside. Sow them outdoors instead. Hand till a place in the garden to loosen the soil, and bury the seeds about

KNOW YOUR PLANTS

1⁄4 inch deep. Mark the spot so you won’t forget where it is.

The hellebore seeds should sprout next spring.

Yucky Yellow Buds I live in Jacksonville, Florida, and have three beautiful yellow Chinese hibiscus plants. A few months ago, the leaves started yellowing. Now the flower buds fall off before opening. Any ideas?

—KRISTA

Bud drop on hibiscus is almost always due to growing conditions. Soil that’s too wet or dry; reflected heat from pavement; and strong, drying winds can do this. Healthy plants recover quickly though.

Keep the ground moist, and make sure it drains.

I ASSUME THAT MY readers are

G RU M PY ’S GRIPE of the month

discerning enough to avoid the majority of stupid ideas they confront, but just in case, let me warn you about this particularly moronic one. A “gardening” website advises people to reduce the number of annoying flies in their houses by filling their rooms with carnivorous plants such as Venus flytraps and pitcher plants. This is soooooo dumb.

For one thing, carnivorous plants hate growing indoors. They like sunny bogs.

For another, they consume only a tiny fraction of the bugs available. If these plants ate all of them, they would then starve. So how about trying something sensible? You know, like emptying the trash can on a monthly basis or patching the screen on the kitchen door.

illustration by KENDYLL HILLEGAS

‘Sky Pencil’ Japanese Holly Let this upright evergreen help you out of a tight spot

Need a screening plant to grow in a skinny area? Well stop your search right here. ‘Sky Pencil’ Japanese holly (Ilex crenata ‘Sky Pencil’) grows 6 to 10 feet tall and about 2 feet wide and seldom needs pruning. While it makes an excellent narrow hedge, you can grow it in a container or use it as a vertical accent out in the garden. ‘Sky Pencil’ isn’t fussy. Suited to USDA Zones 5 to 8, it grows in sun or light shade and prefers well-drained soil.

Deer don’t like it. So what are you waiting for? Get the lead out. Your garden center awaits.

—Steve Bender

SOUTHE R N LIVI NG 49

MAKE IT YOUR NATURE. Experience the natural beauty of the North Carolina outdoors and preserve moments like these. Plan your trip at visitnc.com.

HOME SCHOOL L E S S O N S

I N

S O U T H E R N

D E C O R AT I N G

Art of the Plate The secret to a sophisticated gallery wall is hiding in your china cabinet Consider the Mix Start with the plates that are most meaningful to you, and fill in the gaps with pieces that are complementary in size, color, and design. A healthy dose of variation—in the widths of the plates as well as the scales of the patterns—is key.

Arrange Creatively For a clean look, go with a grid (or a line in a narrow space). To achieve a more organic effect, start with your largest platter and arrange around it. Hanging a paper template of each plate will allow you to play with the design before you commit.

Hang Tough

STY LING: MARY BE TH WETZ EL; SINGLE PLATE IMAG ES ( 3) : COURTESY VENDORS

Select the Right Surface A peppering of plates can fill many blank spaces, but for a true gallery wall, you’ll want a medium to large area. Kitchens and dining rooms have long been popular spots, but these days, designers love an unexpected location. Try an arrangement above the bed in a guest room.

Let’s Dish

Ask a Designer

Three display-worthy finds to complete your look

Dansk Vandvid Ceramics Serving Platter, $40; food52.com

Marlo Thomas Scenic Appetizer Plates, $65/set of four; williams-sonoma.com

by MARISA SPYKER photographs by HECTOR MANUEL SANCHEZ

Plates can safely be hung two ways: adhesive or spring-style hangers. If you don’t plan on using the pieces for meals, opt for an adhesive. Spring-style hangers curl around the plates, providing a solid grip and the flexibility to move them.

Mottahedeh Tobacco Leaf Dinner Plate, $200; williams-sonoma.com

Where’s the best place to shop when starting or building on a plate collection?

“This is a perfect opportunity to incorporate vintage items!

Websites like Chairish and 1stDibs are great resources, and you can often find gems on Etsy or at local thrift stores (or even in your grandmother’s kitchen!) with some digging.”

Kara Solito, designer with Decorist, an online decorating service

SOUTHE R N LIVI NG 53

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The South

LONG W E E KE N D

The Allure of Louisville Three days in search of new surprises in Kentucky’s Derby City

BY VALERIE RAINS

Skyline Vistas Wander the Big Four Bridge and Waterfront Park for unbeatable views of Louisville.

photographs by ROBBIE CAPONETTO

SOUTHE R N L I VI NG 57

LONG WEEKEND

Local Eats (From left) Don’t miss Barn8 restaurant at Hermitage Farm in Goshen or the Smoked Trout Board with eggs and grains at Gralehaus in Louisville.

Getting Set Up

KNEW ABOUT the horses and the hats. I had heard about the bourbon. Baseball bats were mentioned, almost without fail, whenever plans for an autumn trip to Louisville, Kentucky, came up in conversation. But I’d also listened as friends with no interest in any of the above gushed about their love for the Bluegrass State’s largest city, and I wanted to see what all that fuss was about: the food scene that punches above its weight, the abundance of art and historic architecture, the Olmsted-designed parks and distinctive neighborhoods bursting with character, and the complex culture that’s difficult to sum up in a sound bite. I

I

5 8 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

set out to do more than scratch the surface and confirm for myself that—if I’m allowed a groan-worthy pun—Louisville is no onetrick pony. Judging by visitor numbers, I’m not the only one whose curiosity has been piqued. The city set new tourism records in 2019 and has been steadily building momentum in the post-peak-pandemic reopening, even as entrepreneurs and developers have taken advantage of the downtime to reboot, refocus, and reimagine their next chapters. So, with a lengthy list of leads and a long weekend to fill, I made arrangements to meet up with my mom in Derby City and see what else it has to offer first-time visitors in 2022.

Here’s what we uncovered.

When I learned that downtown Louisville has one of the country’s largest collections of 19th-century cast-iron facades—like a slice of New York City’s SoHo dropped alongside the Ohio River—I knew where we’d book our room. About a year old, The Grady Hotel is set in a former apothecary building dating to 1883. It has soaring ceilings, a luxe-library vibe, and a cozy fireplace in the lobby.

We could walk to the KMAC Museum, the Muhammad Ali Center, big-name distilleries, and the 120-foot-tall Louisville Slugger bat replica that leans against the museum and factory. With so much to explore, the appeal of the roaring fire couldn’t hold us for long.

DISCOVERY 1

The Best Food Might Be Found in a Bar—or Even a Barn We hadn’t planned on spending our first evening in town

Artful Experiences (From left) An evening here might include the Overboard cheese-andcharcuterie plate and Aperol Spritz from Cultured cheese shop or a visit to the revamped Gralehaus.

going out of town for dinner.

But the forecast for our visit was wet, and we wanted to experience Barn8 (the eatery at Hermitage Farm in nearby Goshen) while the skies were clear. The nearly 700-acre site is the latest passion project and preservation play of 21c Museum Hotels founders and native Kentuckians Steve Wilson and Laura Lee Brown.

They bought the centuries-old horse farm, which was slated to be developed for housing, and set about converting it into a destination for local organic dining with a changing menu that has an adventurous range and Southern flair.

Mom and I arrived in time for a premeal tour, which began with nibbling our way through the ornamental edible garden, popping sweet yellow ground cherries out of their papery husks and into our mouths and then ogling limequats and grapefruit-size Ponderosa lemons in the high-

tech greenhouse. Positioned next to the red-trimmed black barn that houses the dining room, it looked for all the world like its glimmering, translucent twin—a kind of inverse shadow. Next we paid a visit to Hermitage Farm’s horse barn. (Equine encounter: Check!) We knew it was time to head in for dinner when slanting late-afternoon sunlight turned a pyramid of pumpkins on the brick patio into a sundial. Once inside, I tried to temper my envy of the folks seated at tables tucked in the two rows of preserved horse stalls that have been transformed into intimate

dining rooms. Our meal soon made me forget my jealousy.

From the crumbly sorghum cornbread to the grilled carrots (seasoned with dill, curry oil, and candied walnuts) to the peppery, plate-size pork chop (all chased with a snifter of sharp Copper & Kings apple brandy), each mouthful was a marvel.

Barn8 may be a bit of an outlier (both in terms of scope and geography), but it’s still part of a larger local movement. While Louisville has its share of white-tablecloth places with old-fashioned service (and menu offerings to match), the energy in its

increasingly eclectic culinary scene has begun to shift into unexpected places. Case in point is the casual corner bar in the laid-back Germantown neighborhood where industry veteran Chris Williams opened his lauded barbecue joint, Four Pegs Smokehouse & Bar, in 2019, parlaying the popularity of his Café 502 food truck into a thriving brick-and-mortar base.

“Louisville has a ton of talent in our kitchens and one of the most vibrant food scenes in the country,” says Williams.

“Things are finally returning to pre-pandemic levels. We’ve got lots of new places opening

SOUTHE R N LI VI NG 59

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up—all of this despite the toughest staffing market I’ve seen in my 23 years in restaurants.” If there was a shortage of hands on deck at Four Pegs when we visited, we didn’t notice. By 7 p.m. on a drizzly Friday night, the place was buzzing, and every seat was occupied by a hungry regular looking for a plate of smoked wings (seasoned with their signature dry rub), a steaming bowl of chili, or a pork belly burnt ends sandwich. Mom and I split the tender brisket sandwich and a plate of pulled chicken, tearing off hunks of warm soft pretzel to dip in hot beer cheese for both our appetizer and our dessert.

The next night, we visited Gravely Brewing Co., a musicthemed brewery, bar, and venue that flips the script on the food truck-to-full-service story. It’s the exclusive home of Mayan Street Food—a part-

Autumn Colors (From left) See the leaves turn around the St. James Court Fountain in Old Louisville or at Hermitage Farm alongside owners Steve Wilson and Laura Lee Brown.

60 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

nership with chef Bruce Ucán of Mayan Cafe. We may not have had access to the full array of Ucán’s creative takes on traditional Mayan cooking, but as we retrieved our hot salbutes (“puffy tacos” made with fresh masa, generously piled with slow-roasted pork and served with a little tub of fiery jalapeño sauce) from a truck on Gravely’s lower patio and devoured them with a view of the twinkling city skyline, neither of us could imagine asking for more.

DISCOV ERY 2

Beer Is Giving Bourbon a Run for Its Money “Beer can be explored through the lens of history, culture, science, craft, design, economics, philosophy, and so

on, providing a rich opportunity for a lifetime of learning and community building,” says Lori Beck, co-owner and beverage director of an expanding mini empire of slow-lifestylecentric businesses known collectively as The Grales.

That outlook bodes well for Beck and her partner, Tyler Trotter, who between them have logged almost 40 years in the beer industry and whose passion for potables is embodied in their selection of an old Unitarian church as the home for their flagship temple of beer. Both their bar, Holy Grale, and a backyardadjacent cafe/bed-andbreakfast, Gralehaus, are fresh off renovations by Kentucky interiors powerhouse Journey + Jacobs. The food menus were revamped by

executive chef Jonathan Searle (formerly of Proof on Main in downtown’s 21c Museum Hotel). But why stop there?

Grale Goods, a natural-wine bar and mercantile, is due to open by year’s end. “We are lucky to have adventurous customers who support such a specialized beer program,” Beck says. No doubt, the feeling is mutual.

Another stroke of luck for Louisville beer lovers is the passage of a 2021 bill allowing microbreweries to bypass distributors and sell their products directly to retail shops and restaurants, giving creative small-batch brewers a fighting chance to flourish in competition with the big names and providing people easier access to unique, niche offerings made right in their backyards. The momentum it’s joining is real—nearly a dozen new taprooms have opened in the Louisville area in the past two years, along with the debut of the first Louisville Ale Trail. Two noteworthy newcomers in this homegrown renaissance are Ten20 Craft Brewery (which cut the ribbon on a space in the Butchertown area in late 2020) and Shippingport Brewing Company and Sally Forth Taproom (opened in 2021 by former Against the Grain head brewer Amelia Pillow). The experimental production, led by Pillow along with head brewer Suzanne Franklin, yields beers infused with flavors like roses and hibiscus or sassafras root and turkey tail mushrooms. Collaborations with other area breweries are part of their DNA, and the results consistently push the envelope (one

LONG WEEKEND

Inspired Shops (From left) Browse Louisville boutique Hazel + Hunt for design-forward gifts and apparel printed in Kentucky.

Stop by Mahonia for an unparalleled array of plants, pots, and other garden goods.

example, Bière de Printemps created with Monnik Beer Co., features foraged magnolia flowers and wild grapevines).

For all that headiness, however, Louisville’s beer culture is still friendly and welcoming. Sally Forth’s affordable lunch menus and trivia nights are designed to engage the whole community.

Back at Gravely, as I sampled a funky, vaguely weedy West Coast IPA called Kick Drum, the clientele even included at least one snoozing preschooler. If she could hang out with the beer-geek crowd, we were confident that we could too.

D ISCOV E RY 3

Art Is Everywhere About halfway through our trip, I had the realization that,

without ever setting foot in a traditional museum or gallery space, Mom and I had still managed to take in dozens of world-class works—from sculptures and video art to multimedia installations and paintings galore, including many skillfully applied to the sides of buildings and alleyway walls. Even our hotel had carved out a small gallery space just beyond the lobby.

No doubt, the 21c Museum Hotel, with its robust on-site contemporary art collection and in-your-face, 30-foot gilded David (inspired by Michelangelo) by Serkan Ozkaya keeping watch over the corner of West Main and Seventh Streets, deserves a bit of the credit for the creative atmosphere. Mom and I ducked into the hotel during a morning downpour and found

ourselves entranced by the “What Lies Beneath” exhibition presented in association with the 2021 Louisville Photo Biennial. At Rabbit Hole distillery in hip NuLu (aka The East Market District), an impressive assortment of activist-minded works by visionary artists like Glenn Kaino, Jeremy Dean, and Keltie Ferris brings a layer of complexity to the typical distillery tour and helps draw links between maker communities across media, from the studio to the still. The more hands-

on aspect of art is highlighted around the corner at houseplant hub Mahonia, where a curated selection of beautiful yet functional items like clay vessels and screen printed textiles builds bridges between design and the everyday. In the back of the shop, a DIY terrarium bar with a wallspanning array of crystals, feathers, seashells, mosses, gravels, and sands in every color of the rainbow provides a low-stakes opportunity for shoppers to nurture their own creative instincts.

SOUTHE R N LI VI NG 6 1

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D ISCOV E RY 4

The Spirits Scene Is Always Reinventing Itself Here Fact: There are few (if any) better ways to spend a crisp fall afternoon in Louisville than meandering through one of the city’s several bourbon distilleries, trailing behind

your guide like an obedient duckling, absorbing stray facts about the production process. Breathing in the yeasty, hot-apple-cider smell of the fermentation tanks as vast vats of distillers’ beer— the mixture used to make spirits—bubble around you is a surprisingly cozy experience. All of this is heightened

by the toasty temperature that the spaces create. Fortunately, there is a distillery for practically every taste here, whether we’re talking about specific brands of bourbon or the entertaining extras (like watching an empty bourbon barrel be set aflame to season it at Old Forester or the chocolate

pairings at Angel’s Envy’s tastings). And as interest grows, the industry does, too, with smaller labels, like the family-run Brough Brothers Distillery in Park Hill—the first Black-owned microdistillery in Kentucky—entering the arena and older brands expanding their offerings to cater to the demand for experiential bourbon tourism.

Our favorite in-town option was at Rabbit Hole, thanks to the sleekly modern facility, a specialty cocktail (our tour had an old-fashioned) served on arrival, and the beginnerfriendly tasting sessions, which are conducted at the Overlook, Rabbit Hole’s chic penthouse-level tasting room with floor-to-ceiling windows providing views of the neighborhood’s rooftops and church spires. (Plus, the gift shop has design-forward merchandise ranging from ceramic flasks to art books alongside branded

Seasonal Sights (From left) Admire the horses on a visit to Hermitage Farm. Then relax with a cocktail at The Wild Swann, the restaurant and bar at The Grady Hotel. Check out the historic homes of Old Louisville.

62 N OVEM B ER / 2022

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WORTHWHILE DETOURS Have more than a long weekend to spend? Work in a day trip (or more) to one of these nearby spots

T-shirts and beanies.) By next spring, the vistas should include the Hotel Genevieve, a 122-room property from the Bunkhouse Group that will share an art garden with the distillery.

“The bourbon-tourism industry is booming, pure and simple,” notes Nicole Stipp, cofounder of both Louisville’s whiskey-focused Trouble Bar and Matson & Gilman, a concierge service for creative tours, events, and excursions within Louisville and along the larger Kentucky Bourbon Trail. “Every distillery is selling out tours, and if you haven’t booked your visit two to three months ahead of time, it’s a toss-up whether you’ll be able to see what you want,” Stipp says. Not scheduling that far out?

Don’t worry. Persistence can pay off, and cancellations can open up at previously sold-out venues, as I discovered in a spontaneous midnight booking spree in the middle of our trip. Plus, that demand helps foster an industry tone that is more convivial than cutthroat. “Our favorite thing about working in bourbon and bourbon tourism is the sense of family in the business community,” explains Kaitlyn Soligan, cofounder (with Stipp) of both Trouble Bar and Matson & Gilman. “For such a huge industry, it’s a small town. Everyone knows everyone else and supports them in a way that people often say is unusual for a space you would think would be more competitive.”

Earlier this year, Castle & Key added its first bottled in bond bourbon (after the requisite four-year wait) to its list of distinctive seasonal gins and ryes. Make the drive to Frankfort to roam the romantically aging grounds that once housed the Old Taylor Distillery—it’s part Disney castle and part 19thcentury industrial relic. castle andkey.com Bardstown’s The Bar at Willett raises the standard for on-site dining (historically in short supply for Kentucky Bourbon Trail distilleries) with its local cheeses, elegant small plates, and a pork chop made with sun-dried tomato and fennel pollen—reservations are required. thebaratwillett.com The Jim Beam campus in Clermont just added The Kitchen Table restaurant and bar, along with the renewable energy-powered, innovationfocused Fred B. Noe Distillery.

Book a tour, tasting, and mixology class to make a whole day of it. jimbeam.com Featuring an on-site bed-andbreakfast, 47 & Poplar restaurant (opening soon), walking trails, and an outdoor event venue (the Amp), the family-run Dant Crossing in Gethsemane aims to be a destination for Log Still Distillery tours and quite a bit more. logstilldistillery.com or dantcrossing.com

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by Other Classes of Mail: 0 (4) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Outside the Mail: 1,906 e. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 204,503 f. Total Distribution: 2,634,941 g. Copies not Distributed: 150,746 h. Total: 2,785,687 i. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 92.24% No. of Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total number of copies (Net press run): 2,692,714 b. Legitimate Paid and/or Requested Distribution (By Mail and Outside the Mail): (1) Outside-County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 2,321,780 (2) In-County Paid/Requested Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 0 (3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS: 69,760 (4) Requested Copies Distributed by Other Mail Classes Through the USPS: 0 c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 2,391,540 d. Nonrequested Distribution (by Mail and Outside the Mail): (1) Outside-County Nonrequested Copies Stated on PS Form 3541: 163,325 (2) In-County Nonrequested Copies included on PS Form 3541: 0 (3) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Through the USPS

by Other Classes of Mail: 0 (4) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Outside the Mail: 1,900 e. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 165,225 f. Total Distribution: 2,556,765 g. Copies not Distributed: 135,949 h. Total: 2,692,714 i. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 93.54% 16. Not applicable 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership for a Requester Publication is required and will be printed in the November 2022 issue of this publication.

18. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager, or ownerr Chris Susil, VP/Planning & Analysis.

Date: September 20, 2022. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).

1.

2.

3.

4.

Spirits and Brews (From top) Explore Kentucky bourbons at Angel’s Envy distillery. Don’t forget to try the flavorful tangerine sour on tap at Louisville’s Gravely Brewing Co.

No matter your plans, the chance to try some of the best bourbons around is open to all, thanks to a wealth of whiskey spots offering curated tasting flights. (Trouble Bar’s menu has options arranged by themes like baking notes, with bourbons selected by a prominent pastry pro, and another list handpicked by female distillers and distillery owners.)

Speakeasy-style establishments feature inventive cocktail menus and impressive bottle lists.

On our final evening in Louisville,

64 N OVEM B ER / 2022

Mom and I made our way to Hell or High Water, an underground space that can be accessed via a long staircase behind an unmarked door on a nondescript downtown side street.

Nestled in our book-lined nook, I slowly sipped a complex bourbon drink tinged with cardamom and lemon and reflected on how this golden pleasure had first found its way into a bottle and then into my glass. We relaxed in our chairs, listening to a three-piece jazz band and picking out our favorites from the faded titles that surrounded us on the shelves.

When we finally journeyed back up the stairs and emerged into the quiet of the night, we were giggling like a couple of kids who had just cut school or made off with a stolen treasure map. Did we unearth every layer of Louisville’s unsung attributes in our too-short time in the city?

Certainly not. But we did find just what we were looking for.

SL Travel Planner S TA R T P L A N N I N G T O DAY: S LT R AV E L P L A N N E R . C O M

25

Edisto Chamber of Commerce

26

Festival of Houses and Gardens by Historic Charleston Foundation

27

South Carolina Aquarium

28

Southeastern Wildlife Exposition (SEWE) sewe.com.

29

Upcountry South Carolina

30 Visit Beaufort, SC 31

Visit Camden, Classically Carolina

32

Visit Oconee SC

33

Visit Summerville

A042 Tennessee 34 Elvis Presley’s Graceland 35

SOUTHEASTERN WILDLIFE EXPOSITION A001 Alabama 1 Sweet Home Alabama A004 Arkansas 2 Arkansas, The Natural State

A009 Florida 4 Daytona Beach 5 6

Franklin County, Florida VISIT FLORIDA

A010 Georgia 7 Georgia Department of Economic Development 8

Georgia State Parks & Historic Sites

9

Pick Ellijay, Georgia

A043 Texas 36 The Great State of Texas

A013 Illinois 10 Illinois. The Middle of Everything.

A017 Kentucky 11 Danville, Kentucky 12

A008 Delaware 3 Visit Delaware

Tennessee Tourism

Experience Kentucky’s Unbridled Spirit

A018 Louisiana 13 Louisiana Office of Tourism A020 Maryland 14 Maryland Office of Tourism A022 Michigan 15 Michigan

A024 Mississippi 16 New Albany, Mississippi 17

Visit Mississippi

18

Visit Ridgeland Mississippi

A033 North Carolina 19 Explore Brevard, Transylvania County 20 Visit North Carolina A036 Oklahoma 21 Chickasaw Country A040 South Carolina 22 Camden Archives and Museum 23

Charleston Area CVB

24

Discover South Carolina

GET STARTED PLANNING YOUR TRIP TODAY! Visit SLTravelPlanner.com, fill out and return the supplied card, or scan the QR code to receive free information from the destinations listed above.

A046 Virginia 37 Virginia is for Lovers A059 Washington DC 38 Destination DC Official Visitors Guide A048 West Virginia 39 The Greenbrier 40 West Virginia Tourism A064 Beaches & Cruises 41 Cruise The Mississippi With American Cruise Lines A133 Historic Sites 42 The White House Historical Association, Publications

THE DINING ROOM

Develop a Sense of Character “This space has all the gravitas. It’s very serious,” says Erin. “Our kids live in every inch of the house but don’t come in here often. It’s where we eat for special occasions and holidays.” The piano is the one she grew up with, and the painting came from a flea market. They found the large mahogany table, a French antique, on Chairish. “Erin wanted me to build her a barley-twist table, but I’ve never had the time!” says Ben.

Home Town History ERIN AND BEN NAPIER H AV E R E N O VAT E D A LOT O F H O US ES I N LAUREL, MISSISSIPPI. THIS TIME, IT’S THEIR OWN

BY SID EVANS PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARSEN & TALBERT

Growing up in Laurel, Mississippi, Erin Napier had driven past her dream house countless times, but she’d never actually seen it. The stately, old brick Tudor isn’t visible from the road, so Erin had never realized what was hiding behind the rolling green fields and tall pine trees on a two-lane highway outside town. When her husband, Ben, sent her the listing in the spring of 2021, she couldn’t believe she had missed it all those years. “I was in love immediately—and that scared me to death,” she says. “I thought, ‘We don’t need another house...but maybe we do.’ ” At the time, Erin was 9 months pregnant with her second daughter (Mae, who’s now a year old). Her oldest, Helen, was 3. Their little home in downtown Laurel had started to feel small, especially when they had family and friends visiting. Ben and Erin had always talked about getting a weekend place in the country where the kids could run around, play in the dirt, plant a garden, and maybe even fish on occasion (Helen is a fan). “I grew up on a 40-acre chicken farm and would pick out a baby chick to be my pet every time a new load would come,” says Erin. “My playtime consisted of climbing a lot of trees and digging for arrowheads in the woods. That’s not something our girls can do in town. I want their bathwater to be dirty at the end of the day, so it means they weren’t just playing on screens.”

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THE LIVING ROOM

Give Meaningful Pieces a Second Act As the first room the Napiers saw when touring the house, this one made an impression. “My mom bought a couch in 1999, and it was the world’s greatest,” Erin says about the sofa on the left. “Then she wanted something different and gave it to us. We used it for years. I got it re-covered, and Ben made new feet for it. Every time she comes over, she says, ‘I can’t believe I gave that to y’all. I want it back.’ ” The sectional on the right is by Rowe Furniture. The walls are painted Misty Air (OC-44) by Benjamin Moore.

SOUTHE R N LIVI NG 69

THE KITCHEN

Weave In Warm Touches “This is the only room we use constantly,” Erin says. “It’s our favorite place.” She cooks all the time and needed a functional kitchen where the family could hang out, but it also had to look consistent with the rest of the house. “It’s all new, but I wanted it to feel like it could be from Downton Abbey—a classic and casual English style that’s utilitarian but kind of elegant,” Erin explains.

The biscuit painting above the door came from her grandmother Ouida’s house. “That’s the thing I love most in the kitchen,” she says.

70 N OVEM B ER / 2022

The Napiers have led dozens of renovations for their popular HGTV shows, Home Town and Home Town Takeover, so it only made sense that this house would be a bit of a project. It needed a more functional kitchen, a new laundry room, and some work on the outdoor spaces, but the fundamentals were all there. Completed in 1930 with huge heart-pine beams, wide plank floors, tongue-and-groove paneling, and custom millwork, the home is as sturdy as it is charming. “It’s unbelievably well built,” says Ben. “Supposedly, all the wood in the whole house—the floors, the trim, the beams—was cut and milled on the property. And that’s pretty cool for me as a woodworker.”

“The house is built like a fortress,” Erin adds. “A tree fell on it during a tornado in the eighties, and it didn’t really damage anything. It just poked a hole.”

But it was the Tudor design that won Erin’s heart. “One reason we had to get this house was its very British look. It feels as though you’ve crossed the ocean and you’re not in Mississippi anymore. It’s like a vacation for us,” she says. “All the cozy rooms with dark wood make it seem as if you’re sitting beside a fire—that is the dream for me. I love this style so, so much.”

The house has an interesting history too. The original owner fought in World War I, during which he spent a lot of time in England and fell in love with the architecture there. He was a successful chicken farmer—a fact that made Erin feel an instant connection with the place—and was obsessive about the details. He was reportedly an even more successful moonshiner, so he built secret compartments in the house to hide booze and would pull vehicles into the basement on a concrete ramp.

A special episode of Home Town will reveal the house and their renovation process in early December. At the end, Ben and Erin showed the completed project to their mothers, who hadn’t been allowed to see anything while it was in progress.

“My mom is a Realtor, and it really killed her that we wouldn’t let her come visit,” Erin recalls. “The day she came, she just cried through the whole thing.”

SOUTHE R N L I VI NG 7 1

T H E S T U DY

Carve a Special Nook

In 2016, the Napiers partnered with two other couples to open Laurel Mercantile Co., an old-school retail store selling products like candles, leather goods, and home decor. Since then, they’ve added the Scotsman General Store & Woodshop, which specializes in a line of cutting boards, butcher blocks, breadboards, and lazy Susans. Here are a few of our favorites. laurelmercantile.com

Scotsman Leather Dopp Kit in Autumn Harvest; $100

72 N OVEM B ER / 2022

Helen Hand Soap; $18

Bread Boards; from $35

Laurel Candle; from $12

STY LING: LIZ STRONG; HAIR AND MAKEUP: ME LISSA HAY ES

“This is my analog room. I’ve got my typewriter, record player, transistor radio, and books,” says Ben. He also has a framed Duke University jersey (his father went there) and a vintage egg scale, a nod to the original owner.

“I come here in the mornings to drink my coffee and type notes to Erin and Helen,” explains Ben. He jokes that he has terrible penmanship and finds the typewriter to be “the next best thing to a handwritten note.”

THE EXTERIOR

Plan Your Dream Porch “I never imagined finding a historic house that met all my criteria,” Erin says, “but it had literally everything on my list.” One thing that needed some work, however, was the porch off the primary bedroom, which hadn’t been updated since the 1980s. “There’s about a 10-foot drop-off on one side, so we added the rail,” says Ben. They also installed the awning with Sunbrella fabric in Moreland Taupe, painted the exterior a dark green (Sherwin-Williams’ Night Owl, SW 7061), and did some landscaping. “Now it feels like a hotel,” Erin says.

SWEET POTATO CAKE WITH CREAM CHEESE FROSTING P. 81

THE SWEETEST COMEBACK The humble sweet potato has been a hero of Southern desserts for ages. Here are a few delicious reminders TEXT BY ADRIAN MILLER RECIPES BY JOY HOWARD PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTONIS ACHILLEOS FOOD STYLING BY EMILY NABORS HALL PROP STYLING BY MATTHEW GLEASON

SWEET POTATO PIE SQUARES P. 80

Every fall, sweet potatoes take a starring role at special occasions. For many Southern cooks, that means pie. The homey dessert has had remarkable staying power over many generations while other sweet potato-based treats, such as cobblers and puddings, have fallen out of favor. It seems like it’s time for a dessert revival. Those old cookbooks gathering dust somewhere in your home are full of classic recipes that are eager to be reacquainted with today’s palates and plates.

Perhaps the earliest dessert in the antebellum South was sweet potatoes roasted in the ashes of a slow fire. They were typically made by those with meager resources, namely enslaved Africans and the White lower class, who often cooked in rudimentary hearths or over open flames. They required minimal effort to make, and people could work on other tasks while they were roasting.

Some called them “candied yams” because of the glassy appearance from the natural sugars oozing to the surface or from being coated in lard during the cooking process. This, of course, differs from today’s butter-spice-and-sugar-braised candied yams.

Southerners of means prepared complex desserts in a more elaborate hearth or even on a stove, and they had access to better cooking equipment and a variety of ingredients. One of their prized creations was the sweet potato pone. The indigenous Algonquian people used the words “poan” and “appoan” to describe foods that were roasted or baked in the ashes of a fire, particularly an eggless bread that was usually made of just cornmeal and salt with water or oil to bind it. Eventually, it became “pone” in English, but when describing sweet potatoes, it references a spiced pudding instead of a simple quick bread. Although some cooks claim there are differences, the words “pone” and “pudding” were used interchangeably for this dessert. One of the earliest documented recipes specifically calling this a “pone” appeared in the legendary 1847 cookbook The Carolina Housewife by Sarah Rutledge. It combined sweet potatoes, butter, ginger, milk, orange peel, and sugar in a shallow dish and was cooked in a slow oven. Many pone recipes printed in late 19th-century newspapers called for either grating or mashing the sweet potatoes.

In the middle of the 19th century, cobblers were increasingly popular. The earliest recipes typically used a deep cooking vessel (like a Dutch oven), which was filled with fruit and a sugary liquid, topped with raw biscuit dough, and baked over a fire. To cook the dough, hot coals were placed on a lid over the

76 N OVEM B ER / 2022

vessel. Cobbler recipes varied as to whether the sweet potatoes should be cut or mashed, but a number of them instructed bakers to alternate layers of the spiced veggies and dough until the vessel was completely filled. Otherwise, they were prepared and spiced similarly to fruit cobblers. As the cooking methods continued to evolve, chefs added a bottom crust to desserts too.

This addition brought the cobbler more in line with the sweet potato pie. The biggest difference is that the pie usually did not have a top crust. It was likely inspired by carrot pudding, a popular British dessert during the colonial period. The recipes are so similar that one can see a cook swapping one sweet, orange-colored vegetable for another. It’s believed that the iconic sweet potato pie recipe first appeared in 1824 in The Virginia Housewife by Mrs. Mary Randolph. She called it a “pudding,” but it resembled an open-faced pie and included brandy, butter, citron, eggs, lemon peel, nutmeg, and sweet potatoes. Today’s versions tend to be less elaborate than Randolph’s, but the template was set. Another tasty and popular riff on this dessert is the hand pie, which completely encases the sweet potato mixture in a crust.

Although not as well-known as the cobblers, pies, and pones, sweet potato cake recipes appeared in newspapers as early as the 1870s and 1880s. Southerners used a wide variety of ingredients including grated or mashed sweet potatoes, butter, cinnamon, powdered mace, eggs, flour, milk, nuts, nutmeg, shortening (Crisco, in particular, beginning during the early 1900s), and vanilla. Many of the recipes were for layer and tea cakes, but pound cake has since gained in popularity. During the first half of the 20th century, famed agricultural scientist George Washington Carver was one of the biggest sweet potato cheerleaders ever to walk the earth. Carver, who was known for his sliced sweet potato pie, heavily promoted the vegetable’s cultivation and consumption, especially in desserts.

Your holiday table may already be crowded, but these recipes are worthy additions. Everyone loves a comeback story—especially one with a sweet ending.

SWEET POTATO COBBLER P. 80

BOURBONSWEET POTATO BREAD PUDDING P. 81

SWEET POTATO PONE WITH CARDAMOM WHIPPED CREAM P. 80

Sweet Potato Pone with Cardamom Whipped Cream

Remove to a wire rack, and let rest 10 minutes before serving.

Even if you’ve never tried this concoction, you’re likely familiar with its flavors. Similar to a sweet potato pie, it features warm spices along with the addition of molasses, which gives depth. The potatoes are shredded (rather than cooked and mashed); we recommend using the smallest hole on your grater to get this job done—it will require a little bit of elbow grease but will yield a more pleasant texture.

3. Prepare the Cardamom Whipped Cream: Place heavy cream in a bowl, and beat with a hand mixer on medium-high speed until soft peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Add cardamom and vanilla; gradually add powdered sugar, beating until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes.

Serve Pone warm or at room temperature topped with whipped cream. Cover and refrigerate any leftovers.

Sweet Potato Pie Squares ACTIVE 20 MIN. TOTAL 1 HOUR, 30 MIN. SERVES 8

PONE

1⁄2 cup granulated sugar 3 large eggs 1⁄2

cup heavy whipping cream

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the pie plate 2

Tbsp. molasses

1

tsp. ground cinnamon

1

This amped-up version of a holiday classic is baked in a 13- x 9-inch dish, so there’s plenty to feed the masses. And just like any crowd-pleaser, it has a few surprises: a pecanstudded pastry crust and a swooping meringue top.

ACTIVE 30 MIN. TOTAL 1 HOUR, 45 MIN. SERVES 15

tsp. vanilla extract

CRUST

1⁄2

tsp. kosher salt

11⁄4

cups all-purpose flour

1⁄2

tsp. ground ginger

1⁄2

cup granulated sugar

1⁄2

cup unsalted butter, softened and cut into pieces

1⁄4 tsp. ground nutmeg 13⁄4

lb. (about 3 small) sweet potatoes, peeled and finely shredded (about 6 cups)

CARDAMOM WHIPPED CREAM

3⁄4 cup heavy whipping cream 1⁄4 tsp. ground cardamom 1⁄4 tsp. vanilla extract 3 Tbsp. powdered sugar

1. Prepare the Pone: Preheat

oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate with butter.

Whisk together sugar and eggs in a large bowl. Add heavy cream, melted butter, molasses, cinnamon, vanilla, salt, ginger, and nutmeg; whisk once more to combine. Fold in shredded sweet potato until completely incorporated.

2. Pour sweet potato mixture

into prepared pie plate; cover with aluminum foil, and seal edges. Bake, covered, in preheated oven 45 minutes.

Uncover and bake until edges are browned, 10 to 15 minutes.

80 N OVEM B ER / 2022

1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt 4⁄3 cup toasted pecans, finely chopped FILLING

2 lb. sweet potatoes (about 3 medium), peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened 4⁄3 cup granulated sugar 11⁄4 1⁄2

tsp. vanilla extract tsp. ground cinnamon

1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt 1⁄4 tsp. ground nutmeg

butter, and salt to a food processor, and pulse until combined, 10 to 12 times. Add toasted pecans, and pulse until mixture forms a dough, 8 to 10 times. Break dough into pieces; spread over bottom of prepared dish. Place a sheet of parchment paper over dough; press gently with the bottom of a measuring cup to smooth. Bake until edges are lightly browned, about 20 minutes.

2. Prepare the Filling: Bring

a pot of water to a boil on medium-high. Add potatoes, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain potatoes, and transfer to a large bowl. Add butter, and mash until smooth.

Add sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, evaporated milk, and eggs; blend well. Spread evenly over Crust. Bake in preheated oven until center is set and Crust is deep golden, about 45 minutes. Let cool completely.

3. Prepare the Meringue: Beat egg whites in a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment on medium-high speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Add cream of tartar and 1 tablespoon of the sugar; beat well. Continue to slowly add sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, letting mixture blend 1 to 2 minutes between additions.

Once all sugar has been added and stiff peaks form, use a spoon to dollop Meringue over pie, making swoops and swirls.

Use a torch to toast Meringue, or broil until browned, 2 to 3 minutes. (Glass dishes should not be set under the broiler.)

1 (5-oz.) can evaporated milk 3 large eggs MERINGUE

4 large egg whites 1⁄4 tsp. cream of tartar 1⁄2 cup granulated sugar

1. Prepare the Crust: Preheat

oven to 350°F. Line a 13- x 9-inch baking dish with parchment paper. Add flour, granulated sugar, softened

Sweet Potato Cobbler Taking inspiration from a single-crust fruit cobbler, the sweet and syrupy filling is the star of this dessert. Fresh ginger and lemon juice add brightness without overpowering the taste of the potatoes.

Sprinkling the buttery pastry crust with coarse sugar before

it goes into the oven gives it a satisfying crunch.

ACTIVE 30 MIN. TOTAL 1 HOUR, 20 MIN. SERVES 6

PASTRY

11⁄4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar 1⁄2

tsp. kosher salt

1⁄2

cup cold unsalted butter, diced

3 Tbsp. ice water FILLING

11⁄2 lb. (about 3 small) sweet potatoes, sliced into 1⁄4-inch-thick half-moons 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3⁄4 cup granulated sugar 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon) 2

tsp. cornstarch

11⁄2 tsp. grated fresh ginger 3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

1 large egg 1-2 Tbsp. coarse sugar Vanilla ice cream, for topping (optional)

1. Prepare the Pastry: Add

flour, granulated sugar, and salt to a food processor; pulse to combine, 3 to 4 times. Add diced butter, and pulse until butter is combined with flour mixture forming pea-size pieces. Add ice water, and pulse until mixture forms a dough, 8 to 10 times. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and knead a few times. Roll into a ball, and flatten to form a disk.

Wrap dough in plastic wrap, and refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

2. Prepare the Filling: Preheat oven to 400°F. Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan over medium-high.

Add potatoes, and cook 10 minutes. Transfer potatoes to a bowl, reserving 1⁄2 cup of the cooking water.

3. Place butter in a 10-inch castiron skillet, and place skillet in hot oven until butter is melted, about 2 minutes. Carefully remove skillet from oven, and whisk in granulated sugar,

fresh lemon juice, cornstarch, grated ginger, salt, and reserved 1⁄2 cup cooking water. Arrange potatoes in an even layer in sugar mixture.

4. On a lightly floured surface,

roll out dough to a 12-inch square. Use a rectangular cutter to cut several dough pieces. Lay dough pieces, overlapping slightly, on top of sweet potatoes. Continue to cut and arrange pieces on top of sweet potatoes until Filling is fully covered.

5. Whisk egg with 1 tablespoon

water in a small bowl. Brush dough with egg wash; sprinkle with coarse sugar. Bake in preheated oven until Filling is bubbly and thickened and crust is golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Serve with ice cream, if desired.

Sweet Potato Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting Mashed sweet potatoes give this cake an earthy flavor and a moist texture. You don’t even need to spend time baking the potatoes in the oven; microwaving is a far quicker method with equally tasty results. While the cake is plenty irresistible with just the Cream Cheese Frosting, a sprinkling of chopped pecans or walnuts certainly doesn’t hurt.

ACTIVE 40 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR,

3⁄4 cup unsalted butter, softened 3 large eggs, at room temperature CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

11⁄2

(8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened

3⁄4 cup unsalted butter, softened 3 tsp. vanilla extract 1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt 41⁄2 cups powdered sugar, sifted Chopped pecans, for garnish (optional)

1. Prepare the Cake Layers:

Preheat oven to 350°F with oven rack in center of oven. Pierce potato several times using a fork, and place on a microwavesafe plate. Microwave potato on HIGH 4 minutes. Flip potato with a pair of tongs (it will be hot), and microwave 5 minutes.

Check for tenderness with a fork, and continue to microwave in 1-minute increments until cooked through, if needed.

Let cool enough to be handled, about 10 minutes; peel and mash in a small bowl.

2. Coat 2 (9-inch) cake pans

with baking spray. Whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, ground ginger, baking soda, and a generous pinch of nutmeg in a medium bowl.

Whisk together milk, molasses, vanilla extract, and mashed sweet potato in a large glass measuring cup.

3. Beat sugar and butter in a

3⁄4 tsp. ground ginger

stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on medium-high speed until pale yellow and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, and mix just until combined. Reduce speed to low; blend in onethird of the flour mixture. Add half of the milk mixture; blend until smooth. Repeat procedure, alternating dry and wet ingredients, blending fully between additions.

1⁄2

tsp. baking soda

4. Divide batter between

Pinch of ground nutmeg

prepared pans. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in center of each cake comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Let cool in pans 15

15 MIN., PLUS 1 HOUR COOLING SERVES 12

CAKE LAYERS

1

large (12- to 14-oz.) sweet potato (makes about 11⁄2 cups mashed) Baking spray with flour

21⁄2 cups bleached cake flour (such as Swans Down) 2

tsp. baking powder

3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt

3⁄4 cup whole milk 1⁄4 cup molasses 1

tsp. vanilla extract

11⁄4 cups granulated sugar

minutes. Very carefully turn out Cake Layers onto a wire rack to cool completely, about 1 hour.

5. Prepare the frosting: Beat

cream cheese and butter in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add vanilla and salt, and beat well. Reduce speed to low, and gradually add 1⁄2 cup of the powdered sugar. Beat until well blended. Gradually add remaining powdered sugar, 1 cup at a time, beating until smooth between additions.

Continue to beat until frosting is light and fluffy.

6. Place 1 cooled Cake Layer on

a serving plate. Cover generously with frosting; top with remaining layer, and frost top and sides of cake. Garnish with pecans, if desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Bourbon-Sweet Potato Bread Pudding A good bread pudding has just the right ratio of custard to bread, so it ends up rich and decadent rather than too eggy or soggy. To help avoid the latter, the bread here is lightly toasted to ensure it’s dry enough to soak up all the bourbon-flavored goodness.

ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 40 MIN., PLUS 1 HOUR STANDING SERVES 8

1 large (12- to 14-oz.) sweet potato (makes about 11⁄4 cups mashed) 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, plus more for greasing dish 3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt, divided 10

cups (1-inch) cubed challah bread (from 1 [16-oz.] loaf)

5 large egg yolks 21⁄4 cups heavy whipping cream 1⁄2

cup packed light brown sugar

1⁄3

cup honey

1⁄3

cup bourbon

11⁄2 tsp. vanilla extract 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 6 Tbsp. toasted chopped pecans

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Pierce

sweet potato several times using a fork, and place on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave potato on HIGH 4 minutes.

Flip potato with a pair of tongs (it will be hot), and microwave 5 minutes. Check for tenderness with a fork, and continue to microwave in 1-minute increments until cooked through, if needed. Let potato cool enough to be handled, about 10 minutes. Peel potato, and place flesh in a medium bowl. Add butter and 1⁄4 teaspoon of the salt, and mash until well combined. Set aside.

2. Spread bread cubes on a

baking sheet; bake in preheated oven until dried out but not browned, turning halfway through, 13 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely on pan, about 20 minutes.

3. Grease an 8-inch square baking dish with butter. Whisk egg yolks in a large bowl, and set aside. Combine heavy cream, sugar, honey, bourbon, and vanilla in a medium saucepan. Gently warm over low until sugar and honey are dissolved, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in cinnamon and remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Remove from heat, and gradually whisk cream mixture into egg yolks in bowl until well combined.

Add sweet potato mixture to cream mixture, and whisk until mostly smooth. Add bread cubes, and toss gently until moistened.

4. Spread half of the soaked

bread cubes in prepared dish, and sprinkle with half of the pecans. Repeat with remaining soaked bread cubes and pecans.

Pour any remaining custard from bowl over mixture, and let stand 15 minutes.

5. Bake in preheated oven until

center is set, 50 to 60 minutes, rotating dish halfway through and covering with aluminum foil during last 10 to 15 minutes to prevent overbrowning, if needed. Let rest at least 15 minutes before serving.

SOUTHE R N L I VI NG 8 1

A Big Easy Thanksgiving TEXT: ALANA AL-HATLANI RECIPES: KEVIN BELTON

INSPIRED

BY HIS MOTHER’S EPIC HOLIDAY FEASTS, NEW ORLEANS CHEF KEVIN BELTON COOKS A SMALL SCALE MEAL WITH THE SAME GENEROUS SPIRIT

W

hen Kevin Belton was growing up in New Orleans, his family had a strict hierarchy in the kitchen. “My grandmother was like the executive chef, my mom was the executive sous chef, and I was the hired helper,” he recalls. Long before his celebrated career as a culinary instructor and his own PBS cooking series about Louisiana cuisine, Belton developed a love for food from those matriarchs.

While his mother, Sarah, had family ties to the French-Caribbean island of Martinique, she always prepared a classic Southern holiday meal.

In their household, Thanksgiving kicked off the Monday before, when his mom started prepping and meticulously organizing the refrigerator to accommodate

the myriad groceries they would need. In her role as executive chef, his grandmother Magnolia Battle (known as Nan) was there to consult on ingredients, having already passed down her cooking knowledge to her daughter. Meanwhile, Belton dutifully peeled the shrimp and snapped the ends off the green beans.

On the night before the main event, his mother was up at midnight, the sounds of shuffling footsteps and the occasional fire alarm signaling that the turkeys (yes, plural) and various sides were taking their turns in the oven. Once a pan of vegetables was done, she would quickly replace it with another before the oven temperature had a chance to drop.

She always made enough food so that every household had their own turkey and pan of dressing to take home—nobody would have to cook for an entire week.

When it was finally time to gather for dinner, his mother would sit at the table but not eat; she was busy watching joyfully as everyone tasted her work. “This was the way she showed her love, through food,” Belton says.

He remembers the candied yams, cut in perfect rounds and baked until caramelized, and how they glistened on the table and provided the right amount of sweetness

PORTRAIT: DAYMON GARDNER; FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: JAMES RANSOM; FOOD STYLING: RUTH BLACKBURN; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

For decades, chef Kevin Belton has celebrated Louisiana cuisine in his cookbooks and on television.

to balance all the savory dishes. Over the years, Belton has tried to re-create his mother’s menu, but the recipes never turn out quite the same without her; she passed away from breast cancer when he was just a teenager.

Holiday celebrations look a little different these days, and he cooks less at home because his two oldest sons live out

Boudin-Stuffed Turkey Breast with Lemon-Garlic Butter ACTIVE 55 MIN. TOTAL 2 HOURS, 45 MIN. SERVES 6

LEMON-GARLIC BUTTER

1⁄4 cup unsalted butter, melted 2

Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

5

garlic cloves, minced (about 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp.)

1⁄2

Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano

1⁄2

Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme

SPICE BLEND

1

Tbsp. Creole seasoning

1

tsp. sweet or smoked paprika

1

tsp. garlic powder

1

tsp. onion powder

1

tsp. dried thyme

1

tsp. dried oregano

1

tsp. kosher salt

1⁄2 2

tsp. chili powder Tbsp. olive oil

TURKEY

1

cup Kevin’s Boudin (recipe at right) or store-bought boudin (such as Zummo Meat Co.), casings removed

1

cup chicken stock, plus about 1⁄4 cup more if using store-bought boudin

1

(3-lb.) boneless, skin-on turkey breast roast, thawed

1

medium-size sweet onion, quartered

2

medium celery stalks

3 garlic cloves, cut in half lengthwise 4 (4-inch) thyme sprigs

1. Prepare the Lemon-Garlic

Butter: Whisk together butter, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, and thyme in a medium bowl.

Set aside.

2. Prepare the Spice Blend:

Stir together Creole seasoning, paprika, garlic powder, onion

84 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

of town. So along with his wife, Monica, and his youngest son, Noah, Belton picks a meal that they can prepare together.

They might experiment with something less traditional like a piña colada bread pudding (Monica’s favorite dessert) or even a boudin-stuffed turkey breast instead of a whole bird. But that same spirit from his childhood gatherings remains.

For his family, Thanksgiving is always an open house with an invitation for anyone to join and bring a dish to share. Like his mother, Belton bundles leftovers into care packages for friends and neighbors.

Although the food is always delicious, the time together is the real draw. “It’s not so much what goes on the table as who’s around it,” Belton says.

powder, thyme, oregano, salt, and chili powder in a small bowl; add olive oil, stirring until well combined. Set aside.

cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Remove from refrigerator 1 hour before cooking.)

3. Prepare the Turkey: Preheat

4. Pour 1 cup stock into pan.

oven to 425°F. Place Kevin’s Boudin in a small bowl, and set aside. (If using store-bought boudin, add about 1⁄4 cup chicken stock, 2 tablespoons at a time, to moisten. Stir until mixture is moist and holds together when squeezed.) Pat turkey dry using paper towels.

(If turkey is encased in netting, remove and discard.) Place turkey, skin side down, on a clean cutting board; unroll to flatten. Holding the blade of a chef’s knife parallel to cutting board, slice into thickest portion of breast, cutting along the length but not all the way through. Unfold so breast opens like a book. Place a piece of plastic wrap on top, and pound using a meat mallet or heavy skillet until turkey is about 3⁄4 inch thick and is even in thickness. Remove plastic wrap. Spoon boudin into center of breast to create a log shape; roll 1 end of the breast over to encase boudin and meet the other end of breast. Using kitchen twine, tie rolled stuffed breast at 1- to 1 1⁄2-inch intervals to secure.

Place onion, celery, garlic, and thyme sprigs in a small roasting pan. Place rolled breast, skin side up, on top of vegetables.

Slowly spoon or pour LemonGarlic Butter over turkey, using your hands to massage it all around and under twine.

Slather Spice Blend over outside of turkey. (If desired,

Place in preheated oven; reduce oven temperature to 325°F. Bake, uncovered, until a thermometer inserted into thickest part of the breast registers 155°F, 1 hour, 30 minutes to 1 hour, 45 minutes.

(For crispier skin, baste every 30 minutes.) If it starts to brown too quickly, loosely tent a piece of aluminum foil over turkey, and continue to bake. Let rest 20 to 30 minutes. The temperature will continue to rise to 165°F. Carve and serve.

Kevin’s Boudin ACTIVE 1 HOUR TOTAL 2 HOURS, 50 MIN. MAKES ABOUT 13 CUPS

3 cups white short-grain rice, cooked and cooled 2

lb. boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt), cut into 1-inch cubes

1 lb. pork, beef, or calf liver, cut into large chunks 8

cups chicken stock

11⁄2 cups chopped yellow onion (from 1 medium onion) 1⁄2

cup chopped green bell pepper (from 1 medium bell pepper)

1⁄2

cup chopped celery (from 2 medium celery stalks)

2

garlic cloves

2

Tbsp. Creole seasoning, divided

2

tsp. kosher salt, divided

2

tsp. cayenne pepper, divided

11⁄4

tsp. black pepper, divided

1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided 1 cup chopped scallions,

divided (from about 5 scallions)

1. Place rice in a large bowl;

fluff using a fork. Set aside.

2. Stir together pork shoulder, liver, stock, onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon of the Creole seasoning, 1 teaspoon of the salt, 1⁄4 teaspoon of the cayenne pepper, and 1⁄2 teaspoon of the black pepper in a large Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high, and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered and undisturbed, until pork shoulder and liver are tender, about 1 hour, 30 minutes. Remove from heat, and drain, reserving 1 1⁄2 cups cooking liquid, pork shoulder, and liver.

3. In a meat grinder fitted with a 1⁄4-inch-hole grinder plate, grind pork shoulder, liver, 1⁄4 cup of the parsley, and 1⁄4 cup of the scallions. (Pork shoulder, liver, parsley, and scallions can also be coarsely chopped, in batches, in a food processor.)

4. Stir together pork mixture, reserved rice, and remaining 1 tablespoon of the Creole seasoning, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 3⁄4 teaspoons cayenne pepper, 3⁄4 teaspoon black pepper, 3⁄4 cup parsley, and 3⁄4 cup scallions until well combined. Add reserved cooking liquid, about 1⁄2 cup at a time, stirring until mixture is moist but holds together when squeezed. Form mixture into 38 (3-ounce) balls or patties (about 1⁄3 cup each), or freeze in gallon-size ziplock plastic freezer bags for up to 3 months.

The turkey is stuffed with boudin (“BOOdan”), a Cajun pork sausage that includes rice.

UNTIL NOW, YOUR ONLY JOB ON THANKSGIVING WAS EATING ALL THE SIDES.

IT’S GONNA BE GREAT ™

You’re in charge of sides? Scan the code for this Sausage Stuffing Muffins recipe and other great sides.

SOUTHERN COOKING AT I T S B E S T

The Kitchen H O L I DAY

Secrets to a Southern Thanksgiving

FOOD STYLING: RUTH BLAC KBURN; PRO P STYLING : CHRISTINE K EELY

Make your crowd feel warm and welcome with smart tips and foolproof recipes designed to impress

produced by LISA CERICOLA photographs by JAMES RANSOM

SOUTHE R N L I VI NG 87

H O L I D AY

PICKAPEPPA SNACK MIX p. 89

Take It Outside The oven is full, and the kitchen is hot. Let guests gather on a porch or patio with self-serve drinks and snacks to tide them over till the meal is ready 88 N OVEM B ER / 2022

REC IPES: A LI RA MEE A ND JASMINE SM ITH; FO OD STYLING: RUTH BLAC KBURN; PROP STYLING: KATHLEEN VARNER

THANKSGIVING PUNCH p. 89

H O L I D AY

Pickapeppa Snack Mix

Mini Pimiento Cheese Balls

Thanksgiving Punch

Okra in a Blanket

ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 15 MIN., PLUS 30 MIN. COOLING

ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 25 MIN., PLUS 1 HOUR CHILLING

ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 10 MIN., PLUS 1 HOUR CHILLING

ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 20 MIN.

SERVES 12

Preheat oven to 250°F with racks in top third and center of oven. Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Heat 1 (5-oz.) bottle Pickapeppa Sauce, ½ cup unsalted butter, ½ cup packed light brown sugar, 1 ½ tsp. chili powder, 1 ½ tsp. cayenne pepper, and 1 ¼ tsp. kosher salt in a small saucepan over medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until butter is melted. Remove from heat.

Combine 5 cups rice-cereal squares (such as Chex), 3 cups pretzels, and 1 ½ cups unsalted peanuts in a large bowl. Drizzle with half of the butter mixture; gently toss to coat. Add remaining butter mixture; gently toss to coat. Arrange in a single layer on prepared pans. Bake until lightly browned and crisp, about 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes and rotating pans halfway through bake time. Let cool completely on baking sheets, about 30 minutes.

MAKES 36

Process 2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese, 1 cup softened cream cheese, ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper, ¼ tsp. black pepper, 1⁄8 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄8 tsp. garlic powder in a food processor until combined, about 15 seconds. Add 1 drained (4-oz.) jar diced pimientos, and pulse until evenly distributed and slightly chopped, 6 to 8 pulses.

Transfer cheese mixture to a medium bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Chill at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours. Sprinkle 1 ¼ cups finely chopped toasted pecans and ¼ cup finely chopped fresh chives on a large baking sheet in an even layer.

Scoop out cheese mixture using a 2-teaspoon cookie scoop; roll in your hands to create a ball.

Roll cheese balls, 1 at a time, in pecan mixture to coat evenly.

This will yield about 36 mini balls. Transfer to a platter; insert small square crackers into cheese balls, if desired. Serve with additional crackers.

MAKES 30

SERVES 12

Heat 1 cup packed light brown sugar, 1 cup water, 3 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks, and 4 star anise in a small saucepan over medium-high. Cook, stirring often, until sugar dissolves and mixture comes to a simmer, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; transfer simple syrup and spices to a heatproof container.

Chill, uncovered, until cool, about 1 hour. (Can be made 1 week in advance; store in an airtight container in refrigerator.) Combine 8 cups chilled apple cider, 1 (750-milliliter) bottle of chilled Champagne or Prosecco, 2 cups bourbon, 1 cup orange juice, ½ cup fresh lemon juice, and 1 cup of the spiced simple syrup in a large drink dispenser or punch bowl; stir to combine. (Serve without bourbon or Champagne for a nonalcoholic option.) Top with 10 thin orange slices, 6 thin apple slices, and 1 cup frozen cranberries; add spices from simple syrup. Serve over ice.

Whisk together ½ cup mayonnaise, 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard, 4 tsp. honey, 1 tsp. chopped fresh dill, and 1⁄8 tsp. kosher salt in a small bowl until well combined.

Line a baking sheet with paper towels; place 30 whole pickled okra pods (from 1 [64-oz.] jar) on baking sheet to drain. Cut 4 thin slices of country ham into ½-inch-wide strips. Wrap 1 ham strip around each okra pod, securing with a wooden pick. Transfer wrapped okra to a large platter. Serve with mustard sauce.

Get Ahead Make the punch’s simple syrup a week in advance and the Pickapeppa Snack Mix three days ahead. Roll the Mini Pimiento Cheese Balls in pecan mixture the night before, and assemble Okra in a Blanket appetizers the morning of the gathering.

SOUTHE R N LI VI NG 89

H O L I D AY

BUTTERBASTED TURKEY p. 91

Tackle the Turkey Let’s be honest: The sides usually steal the spotlight. That will all change with this tender, crisp-skinned bird. The secret? Plenty of butter 90 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

REC IPES: J OHN SOMERALL; FOOD STYLING: RUTH BLACKBURN ; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

OVERNIGHT GIBLET GRAVY p. 91

H O L I D AY

Butter-Basted Turkey ACTIVE 45 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS, 45 MIN. SERVES 10

1

(14- to 16-lb.) fresh or thawed, frozen whole turkey

21⁄2 Tbsp. kosher salt 1

Tbsp. black pepper

1

large yellow onion, quartered

6

rosemary sprigs

6

garlic cloves, crushed

3 fresh or dried bay leaves 11⁄2 2

cups unsalted butter cups dry white wine Cheesecloth

1. Preheat oven to 450°F with

oven rack in lower third of oven; place a roasting rack in a large roasting pan. Remove giblets and neck from turkey to reserve for Overnight Giblet Gravy (recipe, below right); store giblets and neck in a ziplock plastic freezer bag in refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Trim any excess fat and skin around neck and cavity, and reserve for another use or discard. Pat turkey dry with paper towels, including inside of cavity. Starting at neck end, loosen and lift skin from breast by inserting fingers and gently pushing between skin and meat. (Do not detach skin completely.) Season turkey on all sides with salt and pepper, including inside of cavity and underneath skin on breasts.

Place onion, rosemary sprigs, garlic cloves, and bay leaves in cavity. Tie ends of legs together with kitchen twine, and tuck wing tips behind back. Place turkey on rack in prepared roasting pan, breast side up, and set aside at room temperature while preparing basting mixture.

2. Add butter and white wine to a medium saucepan, and cook over medium, stirring occasionally, until butter has melted and mixture is warm, 5 to 7 minutes; remove saucepan from heat. Fold a 9- x 20-inch piece of cheesecloth in half twice so it is 4 layers thick.

Submerge in butter mixture,

allowing cheesecloth to absorb mixture. Remove cheesecloth, and unfold until it is 2 layers thick. Place soaked cheesecloth on top of turkey to cover it entirely, and gently smooth out cheesecloth so it is in direct contact with turkey skin. Cover remaining butter mixture in saucepan to keep warm.

3. Bake turkey in preheated oven until cheesecloth appears dry, about 30 minutes. Carefully baste cheesecloth with some of the reserved butter mixture.

Reduce oven temperature to 350°F, and bake 2 hours, basting cheesecloth and any exposed areas of turkey with some of the reserved mixture every 30 minutes. (If all the mixture is used, baste with any juices that have accumulated in roasting pan.) Gently remove and discard cheesecloth, being careful not to tear the skin.

Baste turkey, and bake until skin is deeply golden brown and a thermometer inserted into thickest portion of the breast registers 160°F, about 30 minutes.

4. Remove turkey from oven, and let rest at room temperature 30 minutes. (Internal temperature will continue to rise as turkey rests, reaching a minimum of 165°F.) Carve and serve.

Overnight Giblet Gravy ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN., PLUS 8 HOURS SLOW-COOKING SERVES 16

1

(41⁄2-oz.) pkg. fresh turkey giblets, reserved from 1 (14to 16-lb.) fresh or thawed, frozen whole turkey

1 (5- to 6-oz.) turkey neck, reserved from 1 (14- to 16-lb.) fresh or thawed, frozen whole turkey 6

cups lower-sodium turkey or chicken broth

4 cups chopped yellow onions (from 2 large onions) 2

cups chopped celery (from 4 large stalks)

2 cups chopped, peeled carrots (from 2 large carrots) 1⁄2

cup unsalted butter

1⁄2

cup all-purpose flour

1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste 1 tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh sage 2

tsp. chopped fresh thyme

1. Add turkey giblets, turkey

neck, lower-sodium broth, yellow onions, celery, and carrots to a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker. Cover and cook on LOW for 8 to 12 hours.

2. Gently remove turkey giblets

and neck, and reserve for gravy. Carefully pour broth mixture in slow cooker through a fine mesh strainer into a large bowl or pot to equal 6 cups broth. Discard solids, and set broth aside.

3. Melt butter in a large

saucepan over medium heat.

Add flour, and cook, whisking constantly, until butter mixture is well combined and turns golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

Slowly and carefully add reserved broth to butter mixture in saucepan, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Bring broth mixture to a boil over medium heat; reduce heat to low. Simmer, whisking occasionally, until broth mixture has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 to 15 minutes.

4. While broth mixture simmers, pick meat from reserved turkey neck, and transfer meat to a cutting board, discarding bones. Cut away and discard any silver skin or tendons from gizzards and heart, if necessary.

Roughly chop turkey neck meat and cooked giblets, and add to thickened gravy in saucepan; whisk in salt and pepper. Cook gravy over low, whisking occasionally, until hot, about 5 minutes. Whisk in chopped fresh parsley, sage, and thyme, and add more salt and pepper to taste. Keep gravy hot before serving it with turkey.

How Big of a Turkey Should You Buy? The size of the bird not only depends on the number of people eating and how many side dishes will be served but also on how much extra meat you’d like to have.

(Remember, cooked turkey lasts three to four days in the refrigerator and two to six months in the freezer.)

“I Love Leftovers!”

Plan for about 2 pounds of turkey per person to ensure that you’ll have plenty of meat for post-Thanksgiving sandwiches, soups, and any other way you enjoy it.

“Extra Turkey? No, Thanks.”

If you’re hosting a small gathering, serving a wide variety of side dishes, or don’t want a lot of leftovers, aim to have around 1 to 1 1⁄2 pounds of turkey per person.

The Best Way To Carve a Turkey Hover your phone’s camera over this smart code for a step-by-step lesson.

SOUTHE R N LI VI NG 9 1

H O L I D AY

Show Off the Sides It’s not Thanksgiving unless there are more dishes than folks around the table. Add to the bounty with a new recipe that everyone will request for next year’s feast

CLASSIC MAKE-AHEAD MACARONI AND CHEESE p. 95

92 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

LAYERED SQUASH CASSEROLE p. 96

SMOKY GREENS SOUFFLÉ p. 96

SOUTHE R N LIVI NG 93

H O L I D AY

ROASTED BROCCOLI WITH CHEESE STRAW CRUMBLES p. 96

ROASTED GREEN BEANS WITH CRISPY SHALLOTS AND MUSHROOMS p. 96

94 N OVEM B ER / 2022

REC IPES: KAR EN SCHROEDER-RANKIN, LIZ M ERVOS H, AND MARIANNE WILLIAMS; FOOD STYLING: RUTH BLACKBURN; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

s ay r ry d te e W you vo as re h sa .

Ro Th atc ese ngs s i ie m th pp d gg an ith to w x Ve ix M ites k-fi r ic vo qu fa

ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH BACONY ALMONDS p. 96

H O L I D AY

Slow-Cooker Cornbread Dressing ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN., PLUS 4 HOURS SLOW-COOKING SERVES 10

9

oz. smoked sausage, such as kielbasa (Polish sausage), chopped (2 cups)

2

Tbsp. unsalted butter

1

large yellow onion, chopped (2 cups)

2

medium celery stalks, chopped (1 cup)

2

medium carrots, chopped (1 cup)

2

large shallots, chopped (1⁄2 cup)

8

cups crumbled cornbread

1

cup mayonnaise

1

cup sour cream

1⁄4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish 2

Tbsp. chopped fresh sage leaves

2

Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme

2

large eggs, lightly beaten

11⁄2

tsp. kosher salt

3⁄4 tsp. black pepper 2-3 cups lower-sodium chicken stock, as needed 11⁄2

cups chopped toasted pecans

1. Heat a large skillet over

medium-high. Add sausage, and cook, stirring occasionally, until sausage is beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add butter, onion, celery, carrots, and shallots; cook, stirring often, until vegetables have softened, about 6 minutes.

Transfer to a large bowl, and stir in cornbread.

2. Whisk together mayonnaise,

sour cream, parsley, sage, thyme, eggs, salt, pepper, and 2 cups of the chicken stock in a medium bowl; stir in pecans.

Pour over cornbread mixture; stir until cornbread absorbs most of the liquid. If mixture looks too dry, add up to 1 cup additional chicken stock, 1⁄4 cup at a time, until moistened but not soupy.

3. Lightly coat a 6-quart slow

cooker with cooking spray.

Transfer dressing to prepared slow cooker. Drape a clean

kitchen towel or several layers of paper towels over top to absorb excess moisture (towel should not touch dressing), and cover slow cooker.

4. Cook on LOW until dressing

is firm to touch on top and the sides are golden brown, 4 to 4 1⁄2 hours. Garnish with additional chopped parsley, and serve.

Classic Make-Ahead Macaroni and Cheese ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 45 MIN., PLUS 12 HOURS CHILLING SERVES 10

10

oz. uncooked elbow macaroni

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided 31⁄2 cups heavy whipping cream 1⁄8

tsp. ground nutmeg

2 cups fontina cheese, shredded 11⁄2

cups Monterey Jack

cheese, shredded 11⁄4

tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more for salting water

1 tsp. black pepper, divided 5 white bread slices 2

Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Bring a large pot of salted

water to a boil. Add pasta; cook 4 minutes. (Pasta will not be fully cooked.) Drain and spread on a rimmed baking sheet to cool 10 minutes.

2. Grease a 13- x 9-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Return pasta to pot; stir in cream, nutmeg, 1 cup of the fontina, 3⁄4 cup of the Monterey Jack, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and 3⁄4 teaspoon of the pepper until well blended. Pour mixture into prepared baking dish; sprinkle evenly with remaining 1 cup fontina and 3⁄4 cup Monterey

Jack. Cover dish; refrigerate at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.

3. When ready to bake, remove baking dish from refrigerator.

Let stand 30 minutes while oven preheats to 400°F. 4. Meanwhile, place white bread in a food processor. Pulse until coarse crumbs form, 6 to 8 pulses. Microwave remaining 3 tablespoons butter in a medium microwavable bowl on HIGH until melted, about 30 seconds.

Stir in breadcrumbs and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon each salt and pepper, and toss until breadcrumbs are evenly coated.

Uncover baking dish, and sprinkle casserole evenly with breadcrumb mixture.

5. Bake in preheated oven until

topping is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

SOUTHE R N LIVI NG 9 5

H O L I D AY

Layered Squash Casserole ACTIVE 40 MIN. TOTAL 1 HOUR, 20 MIN. SERVES 8

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided, plus more for greasing baking dish 4 lb. mixed yellow squash and zucchini, cut into 1⁄4-inchthick rounds (about 15 cups) 2 large eggs, beaten 11⁄2

cups sour cream

1⁄2

cup mayonnaise

1 11⁄2 1 1⁄2

Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme tsp. kosher salt tsp. Dijon mustard tsp. cayenne pepper

1⁄2 tsp. grated garlic (from 1 large clove) 11⁄2 11⁄2

11⁄2

tablespoon butter in a mediumsize microwavable bowl on HIGH until melted, about 30 seconds. Add crackers and hot sauce to melted butter, and stir to combine. Sprinkle cracker mixture over casserole. Bake in preheated oven until sour cream mixture is set and crackers are lightly browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes, and serve.

Smoky Greens Soufflé ACTIVE 40 MIN. TOTAL 1 HOUR, 15 MIN. SERVES 6

1

cups white Cheddar cheese, shredded cups bite-size white Cheddar cheese crackers (such as Cheez-It), coarsely crushed tsp. hot sauce

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly

grease a 3-quart oval baking dish with butter; set aside.

2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the

butter in a large Dutch oven over medium-high. Add mixed squash; stir to coat in butter.

Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is tender-crisp, 8 to 10 minutes.

Transfer squash to a colander set over a bowl, and let stand 10 minutes. Gently press out excess water.

3. Stir together eggs, sour

cream, mayonnaise, thyme, salt, Dijon, cayenne pepper, and garlic in a medium bowl.

Spread 1 1⁄4 cups of the sour cream mixture evenly across bottom of prepared baking dish. Arrange squash slices on top of sour cream mixture in overlapping concentric circles, tucking Cheddar cheese in between squash slices. Spread remaining 1 cup sour cream mixture over squash, allowing sour cream mixture to settle between squash slices. If necessary, use a fork to lift and separate squash slices to allow sour cream mixture to fall between slices.

4. Microwave remaining 1

96 NOVEM B ER / 202 2

(15-oz.) pkg. frozen chopped collard greens, thawed Unsalted butter, for greasing soufflé dish

3 Tbsp. grated pecorino Romano cheese 4 thick-cut hickory-smoked bacon slices, chopped (1 cup packed) 3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour 1 3⁄4

cup whole milk cup fontina cheese, shredded

4 large egg yolks 11⁄4 1

tsp. Creole seasoning tsp. hot sauce, plus more for serving

1⁄2 tsp. grated garlic (from 1 clove) 7 1⁄2

large egg whites tsp. cream of tartar

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Place

collards in a clean kitchen towel, and squeeze firmly over sink to remove as much liquid as possible; transfer to a cutting board. Finely chop greens, and transfer to a large bowl.

2. Grease a 2-quart soufflé dish

evenly with butter. Sprinkle dish with pecorino Romano cheese, and tilt to coat in an even layer; tap out excess. Place on a rimmed baking sheet.

3. Cook chopped bacon in a large saucepan over medium, stirring occasionally, until it’s crisp and the fat has rendered, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Using a slotted spoon, add cooked bacon to greens in large bowl, reserving drippings in pan. Pour drippings into a

small heatproof bowl. Wipe saucepan clean.

4. Add 2 tablespoons reserved

drippings to saucepan, and place over medium heat. Whisk in flour, and cook, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Gradually add milk, whisking constantly, and bring to a simmer. Cook, whisking often, until milk mixture is very thick and smooth, about 2 minutes.

Remove from heat, and whisk in fontina cheese until melted and smooth, about 30 seconds.

Let cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Add egg yolks, 1 at a time, whisking to blend after each addition. Stir into collard greens mixture in large bowl along with Creole seasoning, hot sauce, and garlic.

5. Beat egg whites and cream

of tartar with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until glossy and stiff peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir about one-third of egg white mixture into collard greens mixture until well incorporated. Gently fold in remaining egg white mixture until just incorporated. Spoon mixture into prepared dish. To encourage proper rising, use the tip of a paring knife to trace a circle (about 1⁄2 inch deep) 1 inch from sides of dish. Bake soufflé in preheated oven until puffed, top is browned, and a long skewer inserted into middle of soufflé comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Serve immediately with hot sauce.

Choose-Your-Own Roasted Veggie ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 20 MIN. SERVES 6

11⁄2

1⁄4 11⁄2 1⁄2

lb. (1-inch) broccoli florets, halved Brussels sprouts, or trimmed green beans cup olive oil tsp. kosher salt tsp. ground black pepper Bacony Almonds, Cheese Straw Crumbles, or Crispy Shallots and Mushrooms (recipes at right)

Place an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet on middle rack in

oven; preheat oven to 425°F. Place vegetables in a large bowl; toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper until fully coated.

Once oven has preheated, carefully spread vegetables evenly over hot baking sheet, using a rubber spatula and scraping remaining olive oil and seasonings from bowl over vegetables. Roast until browned and tender-crisp, 14 to 16 minutes, tossing halfway through. Transfer to a serving platter. Sprinkle with desired toppings, and serve.

Bacony Almonds Place 6 slices chopped thick-cut bacon in a large skillet over medium; cook, stirring occasionally, until rendered and crispy, about 10 minutes. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate, reserving 1 Tbsp. drippings in skillet.

Reduce heat to medium-low.

Add 3⁄4 cup sliced almonds, and cook, stirring often, until toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove almonds from pan; toss with cooked bacon.

Cheese Straw Crumbles Melt 2 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium-high.

Crumble 1 1⁄2 cups cheese straws into skillet, and cook, stirring occasionally, until toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in 1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves.

Crispy Shallots and Mushrooms Heat 1⁄4 cup olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add 2 shallots (sliced into rings); cook, stirring, until browned and crispy, about 4 minutes.

Remove shallots with a slotted spoon. Add 8 oz. sliced wild mushrooms to skillet; cook, undisturbed, 2 minutes. Stir and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until browned and crispy, about 10 minutes.

Remove mushrooms from pan; toss with shallots and 1⁄2 tsp. flaky sea salt.

*

*

H O L I D AY

Surprise Them!

Keep things interesting with a party trick or two. These clever spins on nostalgic favorites will be the talk of Turkey Day 98 N OVEM B ER / 2022

REC IPES: KAR EN SCHROEDER-RANKIN AND MELISSA GRAY; FOOD STYLING: RUTH BLACKBURN; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

LAYERED CRANBERRY SALAD p. 102

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H O L I D AY

PULL-APART BUTTER ROLL LOAVES p. 102

NEW-SCHOOL PINEAPPLE CASSEROLE p. 102

100 N OVEM B ER / 2022

TA ST ES L I K E T R A D I T I O N IN THE MAKING.

M A D E W I T H M I L K F RO M G R A S S - F E D C OW S T H AT G R A Z E O N T H E LUS H PA ST U R ES O F I R E L A N D.

H O L I D AY

Pull-Apart Butter Roll Loaves

20 (4- x 3-inch) rectangles.

ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 40

4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray

MIN., PLUS 1 HOUR, 15 MIN. RISING MAKES 2 LOAVES

11⁄3

cups warm whole milk (105°F to 110°F)

2

Tbsp. granulated sugar

2

(1⁄4-oz.) pkg. active dry yeast (41⁄2 tsp.)

6

cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for dusting

1⁄2

cup, plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and divided

4 large eggs 1 1⁄2

Tbsp. kosher salt cup unsalted butter, softened and divided Flaky sea salt, for garnish Fresh rosemary sprigs, for garnish

1. Whisk together warm milk,

sugar, and yeast in a small bowl until well combined; let stand at room temperature until foamy, about 5 minutes.

2. Place yeast mixture and 2

cups of the flour in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and beat on low speed just until combined, about 20 seconds. Add 1⁄2 cup of the melted butter and 1 cup of the flour; continue beating on low speed until combined, about 30 seconds. With mixer on low, add eggs, 1 at a time, beating just until combined after each addition. Gradually add salt and remaining 3 cups flour, beating on low speed until a soft, sticky dough forms, about 2 minutes.

3. Place dough in a large bowl

coated with cooking spray; lightly coat top of dough with cooking spray, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm place (75°F) until doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Place dough on floured work surface, and shape into a ball. Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel, and let rest 10 minutes.

Divide dough in half. Working with 1 half at a time, roll dough into a 20- x 12-inch rectangle (1⁄4 inch thick). Spread 1⁄4 cup of the softened butter in a thin layer over dough. Using a knife or pizza cutter, cut dough into

102 N OVEM B ER / 2022

2 (8 1⁄2- x 4 1⁄2-inch) loaf pans with cooking spray. Prop 1 end of 1 prepared pan up to place it at an angle. Beginning at low end of prepared pan, place 1 dough rectangle, buttered side up, and repeat with remaining dough rectangles, buttered sides up. Repeat procedure with remaining dough, 1⁄4 cup softened butter, and pan. Cover pans loosely with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.

5. Bake both pans in preheated

oven until golden brown, about 40 minutes, covering loosely with aluminum foil halfway through baking time to prevent overbrowning, if needed.

Let cool in pans 10 minutes.

Remove from pans, and brush with remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter; garnish with flaky sea salt and rosemary before serving.

New-School Pineapple Casserole

in 2 rows, curved sides up, in prepared baking dish.

2. Whisk together brown sugar,

cornstarch, and lemon juice in a small bowl, and pour evenly over pineapple slices. Sprinkle evenly with 3⁄4 cup of the Cheddar; scatter cream cheese cubes evenly over surface.

3. Combine crackers, almonds, and rosemary in a medium bowl; drizzle with butter, and toss to coat. Stir in remaining 3⁄4 cup Cheddar, and sprinkle mixture evenly over casserole.

4. Bake in preheated oven

until topping is golden brown and pineapple slices are tender, 30 to 35 minutes.

1⁄4 cup packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp. cornstarch 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon) 11⁄2

cups aged white Cheddar cheese, shredded, divided

1

(8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, cut into small cubes

26 buttery crackers (such as Ritz), coarsely crushed (about 11⁄2 cups) 1

cup sliced almonds

1

Tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary leaves

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly

grease a 13- x 9-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Halve pineapples lengthwise, and then slice crosswise into 1⁄2-inch-thick half-moons. Place slices on several layers of paper towels, and gently pat dry. Shingle slices lengthwise

reserved 3 cups cranberrygelatin mixture and sweetened condensed milk in a medium bowl; cover and let stand at room temperature while fruit layer chills. Slowly pour milk mixture over fruit layer, turning pan as you pour to create an even layer. Chill, uncovered, until firmly set, at least 4 hours or up to 48 hours. Unmold as directed below.

ACTIVE 50 MIN. - TOTAL 50 MIN., PLUS 6 HOURS CHILLING SERVES 10

2

cups fresh whole cranberries, thawed if frozen

5 (1⁄4-oz.) envelopes unflavored gelatin (such as Knox) 6

cups cranberry juice cocktail, divided

1 cup granulated sugar 1

SERVES 10

fresh pineapples, peeled and cored

4. Meanwhile, stir together

Layered Cranberry Salad

ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 60 MIN.

2

any foam from top. Gently fold in chilled cranberries until evenly distributed. Pour fruit mixture into prepared pan.

Refrigerate, uncovered, until set, about 2 hours.

cup fresh orange juice (from 2 large or 3 medium oranges) Ice

1

(14-oz.) can sweetened condensed milk

1. Lightly spray a 10-cup Bundt pan with cooking spray; set aside. Place cranberries in refrigerator until ready to use.

Whisk together gelatin and 1 cup of the cranberry juice in a medium bowl; set aside at room temperature.

2. Bring sugar, fresh orange

juice, and remaining 5 cups cranberry juice to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium, stirring often. Remove from heat; whisk in gelatin mixture until dissolved. Set aside 3 cups cranberry-gelatin mixture.

3. Place remaining 4 cups cranberry-gelatin mixture in a medium bowl; place that over a large bowl filled with ice.

Chill mixture, stirring often, until thickened, 30 to 45 minutes. Scrape and discard

The Big Reveal Unmold your Layered Cranberry Salad without breaking a sweat 1. WARM IT UP

Fill a large l b bowll with i h warm water, and carefully lower the pan with the layered salad into the water until the sides begin to loosen, 10 to 15 seconds. Do not completely submerge the pan.

2. GRAB A PLATE

Lift the pan from the water, and pat dry with a kitchen towel. Use your fingertips to gently coax the congealed salad away from the edges of the pan. Place a serving plate on the pan, bottom side up.

3. GIVE IT A FLIP

As Julia Child said, “You just have to have the courage of your convictions.” So hold the pan and plate together firmly, and flip them with confidence. Gently lift the pan away to reveal your masterpiece.

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H O L I D AY

Learn These Chess Moves We dressed up the classic chess pie with holiday flavors.

Our simple recipe can be made three different ways, whether you prefer apple, pumpkin, or pecan

CHOCOLATEPECAN CHESS PIE p. 106

104 N OVEM B ER / 2022

PUMPKIN CHESS PIE p. 106

APPLE CHESS PIE p. 106

SOUTHE R N LI V I NG 105

H O L I D AY

Apple Chess Pie ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 30 MIN., PLUS 2 HOURS, 30 MIN. COOLING SERVES 8

All-Butter Pie Dough (recipe, below right) 2 cups granulated sugar 3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt 3 large eggs, lightly beaten 1⁄4 cup unsalted butter, melted 3 Tbsp. evaporated milk

and flour to 2 Tbsp., omitting cinnamon, adding 3 Tbsp. cocoa powder, increasing evaporated milk to 2⁄3 cup, and omitting lemon zest and lemon juice. In Step 3, replace apples with 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips, and pour egg mixture over chocolate chips. In Step 4, bake pie at 350°F for 45 minutes. Carefully remove pie from oven, and top evenly with 1 1⁄2 cups toasted pecan halves.

Return to oven, and bake until center is set and barely jiggles, about 10 minutes.

Let cool as directed. Omit powdered sugar and ice cream.

1⁄2 tsp. grated lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh juice (from 1 lemon) medium Granny Smith apples, peeled and thinly sliced (31⁄2 cups) Powdered sugar, for garnish Vanilla ice cream, for serving

1. Roll out All-Butter Pie Dough on a lightly floured work surface into a 12inch round. Place in an ungreased 9-inch pie plate, pressing dough into bottom and sides of pie plate. Fold excess dough under edges; crimp as desired. Freeze 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 400°F, and remove pie from freezer while oven preheats. Line pastry with parchment paper; fill with pie weights or beans.

Bake 10 minutes. Remove parchment and weights. Prick bottom and sides of crust with a fork; return to oven, and bake 8 minutes. Let cool 30 minutes.

2. Whisk together granulated sugar, flour, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl until combined. Add eggs, butter, milk, lemon zest, lemon juice, and vanilla, whisking until smooth.

3. Arrange apple slices in bottom of

prepared piecrust. Pour egg mixture over apples.

4. Reduce oven to 350°F. Bake until center is set and barely jiggles, 55 to 60 minutes, covering edges with aluminum foil halfway through baking time to prevent overbrowning, if needed. Let cool completely on a wire rack, about 2 hours. Garnish with powdered sugar, and serve with ice cream.

Chocolate-Pecan Chess Pie ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 30 MIN., PLUS 2 HOURS, 30 MIN. COOLING SERVES 8

Prepare crust as directed in Step 1 of Apple Chess Pie. In Step 2, proceed as directed, decreasing sugar to 1 1⁄2 cups

106 NOV E MBE R / 2022

Pumpkin Chess Pie ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 30 MIN., PLUS 2 HOURS, 30 MIN. COOLING SERVES 8

Prepare crust as directed in Step 1 of Apple Chess Pie. In Step 2, proceed as directed, reducing flour to 2 Tbsp., replacing cinnamon with 1 tsp. pumpkin pie spice, increasing evaporated milk to 2⁄3 cup, and adding 1 cup canned pumpkin. In Step 3, omit apples, and pour egg mixture into prepared piecrust.

In Step 4, bake pie at 350°F until center is set and barely jiggles, 50 to 55 minutes.

Let cool as directed. Omit powdered sugar and ice cream; serve with whipped cream, and sprinkle with additional pumpkin pie spice.

All-Butter Pie Dough ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 10 MIN., PLUS 30 MIN. CHILLING MAKES 1 PIECRUST

11⁄4

cups all-purpose flour

1 Tbsp. granulated sugar 1⁄2

tsp. kosher salt

1⁄2

cup cold unsalted butter, cubed

3-4 Tbsp. ice water, as needed

1. Pulse flour, sugar, and salt in a food

processor until just combined, about 3 pulses. With processor running, add cubed butter through food chute, processing until some pea-size pieces of butter remain, about 10 seconds. Add water through food chute, 1 tablespoon at a time as needed, pulsing until dough just begins to clump together, about 10 pulses.

2. Transfer dough to a work surface, and knead until it just holds together, about 3 times. Shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and chill until firm, at least 30 minutes or up to 3 days.

REC IPES: A NNA THEOKTISTO; FOO D STY LING: RUTH BLACKBURN; P ROP STYLING: KATHLEEN VARNER

1 tsp. vanilla extract 2

PAM LOLLEY To update this beloved recipe, Pam added Spiced Glazed Pecans for extra crunch and a deeper flavor.

THE KITCHEN

SAVE RO O M

Bring On the Cheesecake For retired Test Kitchen Professional PAM LOLLEY and countless others, this decadent dessert is a family tradition

Pam’s Best-Ever Pumpkin-Pecan Cheesecake

REC IPES: PAM LOLLEY; PHOTOGRAPH: JAMES RANSOM; FOOD STYLING: RU TH BLACKBURN; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY; ILLUSTRATION: KENDYLL HILLEGAS

V E RY N OV EM B ER,

retired Test Kitchen Professional Pam Lolley was faced with the same challenge: to invent yet another aweinspiring dessert (or more) for this magazine. Pam, who joined our staff back in 2003, always went above and beyond, creating new recipes that became instant classics, like the Pumpkin Spice Magic Cake (a Bundt with a built-in layer of flan and a decadent caramel sauce). It bakes together in one pan, and we’re still not quite sure how she pulled it off.

When Pam announced her retirement earlier this year, one of the first things we did (after drying our tears) was ask for her most cherished Thanksgiving dessert. After insisting that this question was like picking a favorite child, she gave in: PumpkinPecan Cheesecake.

Published in 2011, it’s a showstopping pumpkin cheesecake covered with a thin layer of rich sauce. “Lawd have mercy...” exclaimed the article that went with it. After it was taste tested, Pam took home the leftovers (a perk of the job). “My youngest son just about ate the entire thing by himself,” she remembers. “He told me—not asked me—that I had to make this for Thanksgiving from now on.”

It’s impossible to say how many holiday meals throughout the South have ended on a sweet note and how many happy memories have been made in the kitchen because of Pam. “I have laid out all my best ideas and recipes for Southern Living, the brand that holds my heart,” she says. And we’re all very thankful for that.

E

by LISA CERICOLA

ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS, 20 MIN., PLUS 8 HOURS CHILLING - SERVES 12

CHEESECAKE

2

1⁄3

cups graham cracker crumbs (from 1 [131⁄2-oz.] pkg.) cup finely chopped pecans

1 cup granulated sugar

1⁄3

1 tsp. vanilla extract

1⁄4 cup unsalted butter

4 large eggs

1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt

11⁄2

cups canned pumpkin (from 1 [15-oz.] can)

5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

11⁄2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

3 Tbsp. light brown sugar

TOPPING

4 (8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened

1 cup powdered sugar, sifted 1 tsp. vanilla extract ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT

Spiced Glazed Pecans (recipe below)

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1. Prepare the Cheesecake: Preheat oven

to 325°F. Stir together graham cracker crumbs, pecans, melted butter, and brown sugar in a bowl until well blended. Press mixture into bottom and 1 1⁄2 inches up sides of an ungreased 9-inch springform pan. Bake until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven; set crust aside. Do not turn oven off.

2. Beat cream cheese, granulated sugar, and vanilla with a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on medium speed until blended and smooth, about 2 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating just until blended after each addition, stopping to scrape down sides as needed.

Add pumpkin and lemon juice, beating until blended and no streaks remain, about 30 seconds. Pour batter into prepared crust. (Pan will be very full.)

3. Bake at 325°F until almost set, about 1 hour to 1 hour, 10 minutes. Turn oven off. Let Cheesecake stand in oven, with

cup whipping cream

door closed, 15 minutes. Remove from oven, and gently run a knife around outer edge of Cheesecake to loosen from sides of pan. (Do not remove sides of pan.) Cool completely on a wire rack, about 1 hour. Cover; refrigerate at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours. Remove sides and bottom of pan, and transfer to a serving plate.

4. Prepare the Topping: Bring brown sugar, cream, butter, and salt to a boil in a 1-quart saucepan over medium, stirring often. Boil, stirring occasionally, 1 minute; remove from heat. Gradually whisk in powdered sugar and vanilla until smooth.

Let stand 5 minutes, whisking occasionally. Use immediately.

5. Slowly pour Topping over top of chilled

Cheesecake, spreading to within 1⁄4 inch of edge. Garnish with Spiced Glazed Pecans.

Refrigerate, uncovered, until Topping is set, about 20 minutes.

Spiced Glazed Pecans

Stir together 1⁄4 cup granulated sugar, 1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon, 1⁄4 tsp. ground ginger, and 1⁄8 tsp. ground cloves in a heavy saucepan until combined. Stir in 1 cup coarsely chopped pecans; cook over medium, stirring constantly, until sugar melts and coats pecans, about 7 minutes. Spread on greased wax paper; let cool completely, 15 to 20 minutes. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 25 MIN. - MAKES 1 CUP

SOUTHE R N LI VI NG 109

THE KITCHEN

Whip Up Fluffy Eggs Beating the mixture with a fork (instead of a whisk) incorporates less air, giving the frittatas a lighter texture.

Start Your Engine Get the day going with a protein-packed make-ahead breakfast

Cheesy MushroomSpinach Mini Frittatas ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 45 MIN. MAKES 12

8

large eggs

1⁄4 cup heavy whipping cream 1 oz. Parmesan cheese, grated (about 1⁄4 cup) 2

tsp. Dijon mustard

1⁄4 tsp. black pepper 1

tsp. kosher salt, divided

3 Tbsp. olive oil 5

oz. mixed fresh mushrooms (such as shiitake, baby portobello, and oyster), sliced

2

medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (2 tsp.)

1

tsp. fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped

110 N OVEM B ER / 2022

1⁄4 tsp. crushed red pepper 3 cups fresh baby spinach (from 1 [5-oz.] pkg.)

3 oz. fontina cheese, grated (about 3⁄4 cup)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly coat a 12-cup muffin tray with cooking spray.

2. Place eggs, whipping cream, Parmesan, Dijon, black pepper, and 3⁄4 teaspoon of the salt in a large bowl. Beat with a fork until combined (do not overbeat). Set egg mixture aside.

3. Heat oil in a large skillet over

medium-high. Add mushrooms, and cook, undisturbed, until golden on bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir mushrooms.

Cook, stirring often, until golden on all sides, 3 to 4 more minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, crushed red pepper, and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Remove from heat; stir in spinach until wilted.

4. Divide grated fontina evenly among prepared muffin wells (about 1 tablespoon per well).

Spoon mushroom-spinach mixture evenly on top (about 2 tablespoons each), and ladle egg mixture evenly into wells, filling each about three-fourths full (about 3 tablespoons per well).

5. Bake in preheated oven until

puffed and set, about 18 minutes. Cool in pan 5 minutes.

(They will deflate as they cool.)

Run a paring knife around edges to loosen and remove frittatas. Serve immediately, or (if making ahead) transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, about 20 minutes. Store in an airtight container in refrigerator for up to 3 days or in freezer for up to 3 months.

6. To reheat, place frittatas on a

microwavable plate and microwave at MEDIUM (50% power) for 1 minute to 1 minute, 30 seconds (if refrigerated) or 2 minutes (if frozen). Serve immediately.

photograph by JAMES RANSOM

REC IPE : MAR IANNE WILLIAM S; FOOD STYLING : RUTH BLACKBURN; PRO P STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

OV E R E ASY

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

SOU T H ERN

H OSP ITAL ITY

TO ADVERTISE: CONTACT DEVIN AT MI INTEGRATED MEDIA, 860-265-8585 OR DEVIN@MI-MS.COM

THE KITCHEN

H E A LT H Y I N A H U R RY

Lightened-Up Leftovers If you’re sick of sandwiches, use up that turkey in this tasty seasonal salad

Pick a Persimmon The Fuyu type is small and firm with a tomato-like appearance.

Acorn-shaped Hachiyas are larger and completely soft when ripe.

Turkey-and-Persimmon Salad ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 15 MIN. SERVES 4

2

Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

2

tsp. honey

1 tsp. grated fresh ginger (from 1 [1-inch] piece) 11⁄2 1⁄2

tsp. kosher salt tsp. black pepper

1⁄4 cup olive oil lb. sliced or chopped cooked turkey breast (about 3 cups)

5

oz. mixed baby greens

2

medium-size fresh Fuyu persimmons, unpeeled and thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

1⁄2

cup thinly sliced fennel (from 1 small bulb), fronds reserved

1⁄2

cup thinly sliced celery (from 2 medium stalks)

1⁄2

cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley

1⁄2 cup pecans, toasted and roughly chopped

1. Whisk together vinegar,

honey, ginger, kosher salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle in oil while whisking constantly until emulsified. Set dressing aside.

2. Combine turkey, greens, persimmons, fennel with fronds, celery, parsley, and pecans in a large bowl. Drizzle with 1⁄4 cup of the dressing, and gently toss until coated.

Serve immediately with remaining dressing.

CAL 431 CARB 14 G FAT 26 G

112 N OVEM B ER / 202 2

photograph by JAMES RANSOM

REC IPE : NICOLE HOPPER; FOOD STYLING : RUTH BLAC KBURN; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

1

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COOKING SCHOOL T I P S

A N D

T R I C K S

F R O M

T H E

S O U T H ’ S

M O S T

T R U S T E D

K I T C H E N

How To Blind-Bake a Piecrust Making pumpkin or pecan pie this season? Fall back on this classic technique to guarantee a gorgeous, flaky crust

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS Take your Thanksgiving recipes from good to great FLUFFIER MASHED POTATOES

Don’t peel the potatoes before boiling them; the skins will keep them from absorbing too much water.

SMOOTHER STEP 1

STEP 2

Press dough into the bottom and up the sides of a pie plate. Trim the edges, and crimp as desired. Place the pie plate in the freezer for 30 minutes.

Remove the pie plate from the freezer; preheat oven to 400°F. Line dough with parchment paper. Fill with pie weights or dried beans to cover the bottom and almost all the way up the sides. Bake for 10 minutes.

PUMPKIN PIE

Blend canned puree or pie filling in the food processor for 1 minute.

PERFECTLY SEASONED

SPRUCED-UP CASSEROLE

Swap out the canned fried onions, and top with caramelized onions or leeks.

EVEN SWEETER SWEET POTATOES

Before adding them to pies and casseroles, roast to enhance their natural flavor.

KICKED-UP STEP 3

STEP 4

CRANBERRIES

Remove the parchment and weights, and pierce the bottom and sides of the crust with a fork 12 to 15 times. Return to oven, and bake 8 minutes.

Let the crust cool before filling and baking as directed (see recipes on page 106). Cover the edges of the crust with aluminum foil during baking to prevent burning, if needed.

Add fresh orange juice and zest or grated ginger to jazz up any cranberry sauce, even the canned kind.

114 N OVEM B ER / 2022

photographs by ANTONIS ACHILLEOS

FOOD STYLING: EMILY NABORS HALL; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINA BROCKMAN

DRESSING

Make homemade stock or use a low-sodium storebought version to control the amount of salt.

COOKING SCHOOL

Recipe Index

Shopping-List Essentials Don’t forget to put these oftenoverlooked items in your basket Appetizers AIRTIGHT PLASTIC

HEAVY-DUTY

CONTAINERS

ALUMINUM FOIL

To send guests home with leftovers

To keep food warm as it rests

Mini Pimiento Cheese Balls, P. 89 Okra in a Blanket, P. 89 Pickapeppa Snack Mix, P. 89 Beverages

SALTED BUTTER

To top all those pies, crisps, and cobblers

To serve alongside the bread basket

TOP: ROBBIE CAPONE TTO; BOTTOM: COURTESY J ENNIFER G OLE MBES KE

Cook of the Month

Jennifer Golembeske NEW MILFORD, CT

Favorite cuisine: “Definitely

Southern food—I am originally from Tennessee, so I love fried chicken, shrimp and grits, beans, and cornbread.”

Proudest moment in the kitchen: “My first loaf

Treasured Southern Living recipe: “It wouldn’t be Thanksgiving without the Cornbread-Biscuit Dressing from Christmas with Southern Living 2003. I swap in vegetable broth for the chicken or turkey broth to make it vegetarian, and no one has even noticed.”

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacony Almonds, P. 96

Thanksgiving Punch, P. 89 Breads

Slow-Cooker Cornbread Dressing, P. 95

Emeril’s Maple-Butter Corn Muffins, P. 24

Smoky Greens Soufflé, P. 96

Pull-Apart Butter Roll Loaves, P. 102

Sweets

Apple Chess Pie, P. 106

Breakfasts

Bourbon-Sweet Potato Bread Pudding, P. 81

Cheesy Mushroom-Spinach Mini Frittatas, P. 110

Chocolate-Pecan Chess Pie, P. 106

Mains

Pam’s Best-Ever PumpkinPecan Cheesecake, P. 109

Boudin-Stuffed Turkey Breast with Lemon-Garlic Butter, P. 84 of bread: Like a lot of people, I learned to make bread during the pandemic and still bake it regularly.”

Must-have tools: “I love my KitchenAid mixer and Le Creuset Dutch oven, which I use for baking homemade bread.”

Beloved cookbook: The Ultimate Southern Living Cookbook

Roasted Broccoli with Cheese Straw Crumbles, P. 96

Roasted Green Beans with Crispy Shallots and Mushrooms, P. 96

Champagne Cocktail, P. 19

VANILLA ICE CREAM

New-School Pineapple Casserole, P. 102

Butter-Basted Turkey, P. 91 Turkey-and-Persimmon Salad, P. 112 Sides

Brown Sugar-Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon, P. 14

Pumpkin Chess Pie, P. 106 Sweet Potato Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting, P. 81 Sweet Potato Cobbler, P. 80 Sweet Potato Pie Squares, P. 80 Sweet Potato Pone with Cardamom Whipped Cream, P. 80

Brussels Sprout Spoon Bread, P. 14

Extras

Choose-Your-Own Roasted Veggie, P. 96

Bacony Almonds, P. 96

Classic Make-Ahead Macaroni and Cheese, P. 95

All-Butter Pie Dough, P. 106 Cheese Straw Crumbles, P. 96 Crispy Shallots and Mushrooms, P. 96

Crispy Smashed Brussels Sprouts, P. 14

Kevin’s Boudin, P. 84

Layered Cranberry Salad, P. 102

Spiced Glazed Pecans, P. 109

Overnight Giblet Gravy, P. 91

Layered Squash Casserole, P. 96

SOUTHE R N LI V I NG 115

RICK BRAGG

SOUTHERN JOURNAL

Let Them Eat Giblets Why this mystery meat was conspicuously absent from my childhood feasts

deprived of giblets when I was a boy. My mother distrusted them—as a rule— but not because they were organ meats, innards, and necks. We believed in livers, gizzards, and other such delicacies most of the time. I now understand that it actually had to do with the packaging of the bird and her suspicions about the vast turkey conglomerate.

I shouldn’t have cared, of course. My mother, the best cook in the whole world, prepared a Thanksgiving meal that most folks could only dream of. But one thing always bothered me: You can’t have giblet gravy without the giblets. And I have been, E WERE

W

116 N OVEM B ER / 2022

all my life, predisposed to like gravy. It sounded so good when I heard people talk about a traditional feast. In movies, sitcoms, and even on the public television channel, they recited their menus with an almost religious fervor. Roast turkey with stuffing and giblet gravy seemed like a kind of holiday trifecta. Julia Child went elbow deep in giblets; that woman was the goddess of gravy. I seem to recall that Ricky and Lucy enjoyed them with Fred and Ethel on I Love Lucy. I imagine they even had that gravy on Gunsmoke.

“Matt, how ’bout joining me and Festus here for a beer?” Miss Kitty might have asked on the show.

“If it’ll be the same to you, Miss Kitty, I’d rather have some giblets,” Matt could have responded.

But not in my house. I used to stand amazed beside my mother as she dug inside the giant turkey for the innards.

They came out not one piece at a time but all together, inside a little paper pack.

It seemed like a neat, economical arrangement to me, but she just would not get it out of her head that someone might have switched giblets on us. It could have easily happened, she thought, on the endless poultry assembly line. The organs from one bird could be foisted inside the cavity of another, and this was not only careless, my mother believed, but highly improper.

Giblets extracted from our turkey might, in the complex packaging process, wind up in a bird in Detroit, San Diego, or Rockmart. Would the handlers be all that particular on a processing line that could stretch to the moon?

My mother just couldn’t take the chance on it. She gave some to the cats, but they would eat anything. The rest of it mysteriously disappeared. Cats, again, may have been involved. When in doubt, it’s always safe to blame a feline.

The point is, there was no gravy of any kind at our house. I used to plead for it but only got the side-eye from her—and threats. I do not believe she would have actually given the drumsticks away to passing strangers, but I decided it was best not to push it.

Every now and then, we would see or hear of a giblet-related disaster and she would feel a kind of vindication. One of my cousins roasted a 13-pound turkey with the paper packet still inside.

“Probably wasn’t even that turkey’s natural giblets nohow,” she said disdainfully, like they had been purloined from a bantam rooster or some low-flying goose.

illustration by JOHN CUNEO

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