INTRODUCTION
The best way to understand a place is to travel its roads, walk its cities, and meet its people. In this in-depth guide, you will be treated to a broad-ranging list of things to see and do on the Emerald Isle. From the literary and historic streets of Dublin's fair city, to the wild Atlantic west, to Belfast's docks and back round again, this tour will allow you to see the very best of this enchanting island. Each of the destinations mentioned on the tour will lead you towards a better understanding of this place its past, its present, and of course its people.
Your tour will begin in Dublin, where our walking tours have been designed to show you the rich depth of the city and many of its main attractions. From there, our in-depth road trip itinerary will help you ensure that you miss little that this verdant land can offer. You can expect to see historic buildings, ancient sites, natural beauty spots and much, much more as you make your way to the far south, then wind your way up the windswept, dramatic west coast. You will travel across into Northern Ireland, and uncover sites ancient and modern that will allow you to learn more about the divisions between Northern Ireland and the Republic, and the things that bind them. Ireland's fascinating and at times fractious history will come to life as you forge links only possible when you explore a country in this way.
Of course it is the people who really bring a landscape to life. From the bright lights of the big cities to the most tranquil rural spots, our itinerary is designed to lead you to meetings you have not had yet, with people who live here and will be glad to make you welcome. Our guide will allow you to feel that you are doing more than simply passing through it will make you feel at home. By the time you have completed this all-encompassing tour you will feel like you know Ireland in a deeper and more special way than you ever imagined. This is the power of Ireland, the power of an Irish adventure.
To help you undertake this tour, we have included in this guide a wealth of information about the counties you will pass through, along with a wealth of practical information to help make sure that everything goes perfectly according to plan. If you are planning a trip to Ireland, this is information that you surely cannot do without. Be well-prepared and expect the unexpected in Ireland, adventures lie in wait around every corner. Go where the leprechauns leap and seek the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Music, laughter, and good tales are to be found where you least expect them.
So, without further ado, let us get on with the business at hand and enjoy the Ireland grand tour…
• Total distance: 2,675 km
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DAY 1: DUBLIN
Dublin is Ireland's adored capital. It is a centre for arts, culture, and entertainment, with a rich, welcoming feel and an enthralling history. The only problem with Dublin's Fair City, as it is called, is knowing where to start. Never fear, we have two walking routes for you that will allow you to see some of the very best that the city has to offer. On the first, you will enjoy the highlights, and on the second, you’ll delve a little deeper and explore the city's literary side.
The following two tours could theoretically be done in a day just about. But to get the most out of this city, we would recommend that you try to stay at least two days before you venture on to see Ireland's many other wonders.
Walking Tour 1 – Dublin Highlights
• Distance: 4 km
• Starting Point: Dublin Bus Station
• Finishing Point: Trinity College
Dublin is a fascinating city to explore. But where to start? Here is one suggestion for a tour that takes in some of the highlights of the city and allows you to get an overall flavour of the place its history, culture, architecture, and of course, its people. Dublin is a friendly place, and as you walk through the streets and interact with the locals that you meet along the way, you will no doubt become enchanted by the Irish capital and by the people who call it home.
This tour will help you get your bearings in the city, and you will also discover some of the elements that have helped to make the city the place that it is today. Dublin has a long and interesting history, and many of the sites you will visit on this tour will allow you to peel away the layers of time and lay the city bare in all its complication and its beauty. It will also allow you to get a general overview of the city centre as it is today. Take your time and you will be rewarded. Dublin is, as the local tourist board says, a breath of fresh air, so breathe deep, take your time, relax, and let Dublin come to you.
This walking tour starts at the Dublin Bus Station. Our first stop is the General Post Office on O'Connell Street Lower. If you are leaving from the bus station, then you should walk west on Shore Street towards Talbot Place and then turn right and walk across the pedestrianised section to Talbot Street. Turn left onto Talbot Street and after 350 m, continue onto the pedestrian shopping street, Earl St North. Ahead of you in the middle of O'Connell Street, you will see the Spire, a monument erected to replace Nelson's Pillar, which was destroyed by Irish Republicans in 1966. Across the road
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and slightly to the right, you will see the large, prominent, columned frontage of the General Post Office.
AThe iconic Gerenal Post Office building was one of he last great Georgian buildings erected in Dublin. It is one of the most recognisable buildings in the city, with its 67metre-long frontage and Ionic portico with its great columns. The Greek hexastyle portico is a well known image of the city. The building was completed in 1818. The portico is made of Portland stone, while the rest of the building is made of granite. It was constructed in just three short years.
Other than its architectural prowess, this building is known for the fact that it was the HQ of the leaders of the Easter Rising of 1916. The building was actually destroyed in a fire in the course of the rebellion and was not repaired until the Irish Free State governance began some years later. The building has become a symbol of Irish Nationalism. Inside, there is a visitor centre that commemorates the 1916 Rising.
O’Connell Street Lower, Dublin 1 // Check website for opening hours // Paid entry // www.gpowitnesshistory.ie
Come out of the General Post Office building and turn left on O'Connell Street and then immediately left again onto the primary shopping street of Dublin city centre.
Over 33 million people visit Henry Street during normal shopping hours every year, which makes it Dublin's favourite shopping street. You will find a wide range of shops here, as well as
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Dublin Post Office - © yykkaa / Shutterstock.com
a lively street scene, often including buskers, such as musicians, poets, and mime artists who take advantage of the passing audience of shoppers.
The street was developed by local land owner, Henry Moore, Earl of Drogheda. He has given his name to many streets and developments around the city, not only Henry Street but also Moore Street, Earl Street, Of Lane (Now Henry Place), and Drogheda Street
Make your way down Henry Street and do a spot of browsing if you wish. After around 100 m, Henry Street becomes Mary Street, but you should continue straight until you see Jervis Street on your left. Turn into Jervis Street, and on your right you will see the Former St Mary's Church.
The Former St Mary's Church was deconsecrated in 1986. It became a retail outlet and then was turned into a restaurant and pub. In 2007 the current owners took over, and the place became known simply as 'the Church'.
The current church building was designed by Sir William Robinson in 1697, and construction began in 1700. The building is notable from an architectural point of view because it was the first church in Dublin to be built with galleries. The adjoining churchyard is the final resting place of some well-known figures including United Irishman Archibald Hamilton Rowan, Mary Mercer, founder of Mercer's Hospital, and Lord Norbury, known colloquially as 'the hanging judge'. The graveyard has now been converted into Wolfe Tone Square.
Turn back onto Mary Street and continue to the left. Cross Capel Street and continue on Mary's Lane. Turn left onto Church Street (N1) and you will see your next destination, St Michan's Church, on the right after around 75 m.
The protestant St Michan’s Church dates from 1686. It is on ground that has been the site of a place of worship since 1095, when a Norse chapel stood here. The church’s plain exterior belies its fascinating interior. Inside you will find some fine woodwork and an organ dating from 1724 on which Handel is said to have composed his Messiah. There are also vaults beneath the structure which contain many mummified remains. The unique atmosphere created by the limestone walls and dry air has ensured their preservation.
The church and its vaults are open to the public for tours on Saturdays and seasonally during the week. As an active place of worship it is not open to the general public on Sundays.
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Church Street, Dublin 7 // Check website for opening hours // Paid entry // www.cccgroup.dublin.anglican.org/Christ_Church_Cathedral_Group/St._Michans.html
Exit the church and turn right, then take the next left and follow the tram lines. Continue alongside the tram lines onto Chancery Street, Mary's Abbey and Abbey Street Upper, and then take a left turn onto Jervis Street. On Jervis Street you will find the National Leprechaun Museum on your left.
The National Leprechaun Museum is the first ever museum dedicated to Irish folklore, storytelling, and mythology. Irish people have told stories about leprechauns (small, mischievous sprites) for over a thousand years. There is a wealth of stories to explore, and this is what this museum does, in a delightfully charming and whimsical way. Here you can enjoy a range of captivating and immersive experiences, from the first ever sighting of a leprechaun back in the 8th century right through to modern day representations, with plenty of adventures in between. Discover a world beneath the rocks of the Giant's Causeway, travel into a mythical otherworld on a trip to a fairy hill, and find yourself in a leprechaun-sized world, seeking the elusive crock of gold at the end of the rainbow. There are daytime hours plus evening tours on Friday and Saturday.
When you leave this fascinating folk museum behind, continue south on Jervis street towards the River Liffey. When you see the river in front of you, turn left.
The River Liffey is the Irish waterway that flows through the centre of Dublin. It also provides Dublin with the majority of its water supply, as well as a range of recreational opportunities. The river has been used for trade since the city’s Viking origins until recent times. Now the only regular traffic on the river through the centre of the city is the tourist boat, Liffey Voyage. Farther downstream, beyond East-Link Bridge, the river is still used for commerce and ferry traffic, and there is some recreational use, too.
Many bridges cross the River Liffey, the oldest of which still standing is Mellow's Bridge, which was formerly called Queens Bridge and was built in 1764. Ha'penny Bridge, over which you will shortly pass, was the first iron bridge to cross the river.
You could choose to cross the River Liffey on Dublin's Millennium Bridge (built in 1999 to celebrate the new millennium), but instead, stroll a little farther along the river, taking advantage of the
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Jervis Street, Dublin 1 // Check website for opening hours // Paid entry // www.leprechaunmuseum.ie
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boardwalk just after the Millennium Bridge to stay close to the water's edge. You will see the Ha'penny Bridge ahead of you, just 150 m or so along the river.
As mentioned above, the Ha'penny Bridge was the first iron bridge to be built across the River Liffey. It was built in 1816. Originally the bridge was called the Wellington Bridge, after the Duke of Wellington, who was born in Dublin. The name was then changed to the Liffey Bridge. This is actually still the bridge's official name, though most people refer to it as the Ha'penny Bridge.
Before the bridge was built, an old and dilapidated fleet of ferries used to carry people across the river. The ferries were condemned, and William Walsh, who ran the service, was told he had to either fix the ferries or build a bridge. Walsh chose to build a bridge and was granted the right to collect a ha’penny toll from anyone crossing it for 100 years. The toll (which had actually risen to one and a half pence by this time) was eventually dropped in 1919. But the name stuck.
The bridge was renovated in 2001 and repainted in its original white colour. In the last few years, a craze has popped up for couples to attach a padlock to the bridge to celebrate their love. Unfortunately, the padlocks damage the bridge (a part of a bridge in Paris used in this way actually collapsed under the weight of the padlocks attached to it), and the council has asked couples to show their love for each other in a less damaging way. The bridge celebrated its bicentennary in May 2016 with a symbolic procession.
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Ha’penny Bridge - © Claudio Divizia / Shutterstock.com
Cross the Ha'penny Bridge and head through the archway ahead of you. Continue straight, and this will take you onto Temple Bar Square. Turn right and make your way down Temple Bar. You are now in Dublin's cultural centre. If you are looking for nightlife, then you should come back to this area in the evening to experience the live music and drinking scene for which Dublin is well-known. There are plenty of places here to wet your whistle should you need a little refreshment at this stage in the walk. There are also plenty of places to get a bite to eat. Dublin is increasingly becoming known as a city of culinary excellence.
The Temple Bar area of Dublin is promoted as the city's cultural quarter. It has a vibrant nightlife that is particularly popular with visitors to the city. Originally the area was known as St Andrews Parish but was renamed Temple Bar, both in homage to the area of London with the same name and also, it is believed, to honour one of the most prominent local families that lived in the area in the early 17th century. The Temple family was headed by Sir William Temple, who was provost of Trinity College from 1609 to 1627.
Today, many major Irish cultural institutions are located in this area, including the National Photographic Archive, the Irish Film Institute, the Irish Stock Exchange, and the Central Bank of Ireland. If you are passing through on a Saturday or Sunday, then you must head to Temple Bar Square for the Temple Bar Book Market. Temple Bar Food Market is held every Saturday in Meetinghouse Square.
From Temple Bar take a left onto Temple Lane. Turn right after around 150 m onto Dame Street. Continue along Dame Street. On your left after about 200 m you will find the City Hall.
Dublin City Hall, originally the Royal Exchange, was built between 1769 and 1779. It is an important example of neo-classical 18th-century design and is one of the prominent architectural landmarks of the city. The white exterior is made of Portland stone from a quarry in Dorset, England. This was built as a meeting place for Dublin businessmen and merchants, somewhere they could buy and sell goods. In the 1850s, the building became used by civil government, and it was renamed as City Hall in 1852, at the first meeting of Dublin’s City Council.
During the 1916 Easter Rising, the City Hall was used as a garrison for the Irish Citizen Army. It was in need of some restoration, and it was restored to its 18th-century appearance at the beginning of the 21st century The Dublin City Council won awards for the conservation of this architectural gem. In the building’s vaults you will now find exhibitions detailing the history of the city. Admission to the City Hall is currently free of charge.
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Continue past the City Hall and continue straight. You will see Christ Church Cathedral ahead of you, one of the architectural highlights of the city. You can get a combined ticket for the cathedral and for Dublinia, the museum that is the next stop on our itinerary.
Christ Church Cathedral is the older of the two mediaeval cathedrals in Dublin. It was founded in around 1030 after the Hiberno-Norse King, Sitric Silkenbeard, took a pilgrimage to Rome in 1028. The cathedral was in poor repair and underwent extensive renovations in the 19th century. Now it is difficult to tell which parts of the interior genuinely date from the mediaeval period and which are Victorian pastiche. Regardless, the church has many interesting architectural features. Not least of these features is the crypt. Christ Church Cathedral has the largest cathedral crypt in either Ireland or the British Isles.
© Buy the complete guide on shop.themediabay.be/en 13 Dame St, Dublin 2 // Open Mon-Sat 10 am 5:15 pm // Free entry // www.dublincity.ie/dublincityhall
Christ Church Cathedral and the archway to Dublinia- © Ana Rey
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Christ Church Cathedral has featured in a number of movies and TV programmes, including popular TV series, The Tudors. There are a number of things to see and do here. Exploring the crypt is one of the most intriguing things. Be sure to visit the most unusual inhabitants of the crypt a mummified cat and rat. Locally, they are known as 'Tom and Jerry'. There is no charge to join worship or pray privately in the cathedral. To see the crypt and other attractions, there is an entrance fee.
Christchurch Pl, Wood Quay, Dublin 8 // See website for opening hours // http://christchurchcathedral.ie/
If you are not interested in entering the cathedral, walk down the path on the right side of the cathedral building. At the other end of the cobbled path, note the interesting archway across the road. Across the road and slightly to the left you will see Dublinia. This museum is well worth a visit. Cross the road carefully and head inside.
If you have entered the cathedral, you may cross over the amazing gothic archway into the Dublinia Museum. There is a discounted price should you wish to combine a visit to both the cathedral crypt and Dublinia.
Dublinia is a highly enjoyable and immersive museum. It’s an historical recreation experience, detailing the city's Viking period and the mediaeval era. Here you can meet Vikings face to face, explore mediaeval Dublin, discover the secrets of History Hunters, and get an amazing view of the modern city from St Michael's Tower. 96 steps will take you to the top of this tower, which is a genuine tower from the mediaeval period.
St Michael’s Hill, Christ Church, Dublin 8 // Check website for opening hours // Paid entry // www.dublinia.ie
After you have seen all the exhibits, it is time to discover Dublin Castle, one of the city's most beautiful areas, with a number of historic buildings. The grounds are free for anyone to explore, and you shall pass through them on this walking tour. Turn right out of the entrance to the museum, and then after you have passed under the stone archway, take a left onto Christchurch Street (you may walk along in the cathedral grounds to your left if you wish), then bear right onto Castle Street. Continue along the road and pass through the pedestrian gateway into the castle grounds.
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Dublin Castle is, of course, another of the best known landmarks in the city and one of Dublin's premier attractions. Dublin Castle is not actually one building but several. Most of these buildings date from the 18th century, though a castle has stood on this site since the days of King John, who was the first Lord of Ireland. Originally, the castle would have been strongly Norman in design. Now, the Record Tower, built in around 1228-1230, is the only remaining section of the original castle.
The castle was the seat of the British Government in Ireland, and now it is an important complex of buildings used by the Irish Government. The complex is open to the public except during state functions. Visitors can explore the grounds free of charge. Also free of charge are the Chester Beatty Library and the Revenue Museum. There are (paid) guided tours available which allow you to see the State Apartments, Mediaeval Undercroft, and Chapel Royal, the latter two of which are accessible only on a guided tour.
Dame Street, Dublin 2 // Check website for opening hours // Free entry paid guided tours // www.dublincastle.ie
Once you have fully explored all the attractions that the castle has to offer, exit through the main pedestrian entrance onto Dame Street, but instead of heading out onto the main thoroughfare, take tiny Dame Lane, immediately on your right just outside the gates. Continue along this alleyway, crossing over Great George's Street and then after another 100 m or so, turn right onto Trinity Lane. Turn left onto St Andrews Street, where you will see the church on your right.
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Dublin Castle - © Marie-Lise Van Wassenhove
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The former St Andrew’s Church now houses the central tourist office for Dublin. If there is anything more you would like to know about what to see and where to go in the city, then you should stop in here to find out more and to ask any questions you may have. The present building was built as a Church of Ireland church in 1860 after a previous church, which had stood on the site since 1793, burned down.
After taking a look at the church, you should also check out the statue of Molly Malone, a character from one of the most famous Irish songs.
Molly Malone has played an important role in the formation of the character of the city of Dublin, and she holds a major part in the hearts and minds of many of its people even though she is fictional. (At least, there is no evidence to suggest that the character is based on a real woman.) Molly Malone is the character of the song 'In Dublin's Fair City' also known
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Molly Malone - © Shutterstock
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sometimes as 'Cockles and Mussels'. In the song, Molly Malone is a fishmonger plying her trade on the streets of Dublin and dying young of a fever. Theories that she was a prostitute by night or one of the few chaste female hawkers of her day abound.
“In Dublin's fair city”, says the song, “where the girls are so pretty...” Well, clearly many visitors to the Molly Malone statue have liked what they saw. The statue's bust has been groped so often that the bronze has begun to wear off the bosom.
After taking a picture with Molly, (and keeping your hands off!) walk north on Church Lane, cross over College Green Road and walk right. You will pass the former Houses of Parliament on your right.
The Irish Houses of Parliament were home to the two chambers of the Irish government during most of the 18th century until the parliament was abolished in the Act of Union in 1800. This was the first purpose-built, two-chamber parliament building in the world. After that government was disbanded, the building was used for a number of purposes, including a military garrison and an art gallery. A few years later, the fledgling Bank of Ireland bought the building from the British Government to use as its headquarters. One stipulation of the sale was that the building would be so adapted that it could never be used for parliament again.
Today, while it is still owned by the bank, the building is used for functions and events, and people come to admire sections of the interior the House of Lords remains, in spite of the stipulation, relatively unscathed. Externally, the building’s architecture makes it one of the city's most important buildings. The design has been copied on government buildings around the world.
Carefully cross the roads to reach the large building with a clock and columns. This is the entrance to Trinity College, one of the most prestigious universities in Ireland, even in Europe. Pass through this building and you will reach a pretty green and a number of other interesting architectural attractions on the other side.
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Suffolk St, Dublin 2
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Trinity College Dublin is the oldest university in Ireland and is one of the seven ancient universities of Britain and Ireland. Its buildings are mostly congregated around two large quadrangles and two playing fields, on a site of around 47 acres. It is usually ranked as the best university in Ireland. The library of Trinity College is a legal deposit library for Ireland and the United Kingdom. It contains over 4.5 million printed volumes and many manuscripts, including the Book of Kells
If you are interested in looking around the college, you can get a tour, which includes admission to an exhibition on the Book of Kells and to the amazing old library. However, the tour will also take you to the four main squares of the college and give you some insight into the college's 500 years of history. You can book tickets online for the Book of Kells (recommended) but not for a tour. Simply turn up at the front gate and buy a ticket for the next scheduled tour.
College Green, Dublin 2 // Check website for opening hours // Paid entry // www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells
It is worthwhile noting that Trinity College is also the starting point for the next tour in this guide, a Literary Tour of Dublin, which begins with within the college grounds at the Book of Kells exhibit. You
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Trinity College - © Marie-Lise Van Wassenhove
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could in theory immediately go on to this next tour, though you may find that it is too much for one day. We would recommend doing this tour one day and then, if you have time, coming back here to complete the Literary Tour the following day. Of course, if you have longer, there is so much to see and do here that you could easily fill a few days simply exploring thoroughly the attractions on this tour.
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© Buy the complete guide on shop.themediabay.be/en 20 WALKING TOUR 1: HIGHLIGHTS OF DUBLIN
DAY 2: WICKLOW MOUNTAINS
On this first stage of your round-Ireland tour you will be heading south, visiting not only one of the grandest homes and estates in Ireland and Ireland's tallest waterfall but also some lovely scenery and ancient sites to rival those found anywhere in Europe.
• Distance: 200 km
• Starting Point: Dublin
• Finishing Point: Kilkenny
• Highlights:
• Powerscourt Estate
• Powerscourt Waterfall
• Victor's Way Indian Sculpture Park (optional)
• Sally Gap and Military Road
• Glendalough
• Brownshill Dolmen/Kernanstown Cromlech
Leaving Dublin behind, we will journey in a generally southerly direction on the M50 and then the R117. It will take around an hour to reach the Powerscourt Estate, in Enniskerry, County Wicklow, the next stop on this tour of Ireland.
The Powerscourt Estate is one of Ireland's best known tourist attractions. Here you will find a stately home, extensive gardens, and two championship golf courses, all on a site which today occupies around 19 hectares. At the heart of this large country estate lies the house. Originally, this structure was a 13th-century castle. It was substantially altered and extended in the 18th century by German architect Richard Cassels. A fire in 1974 substantially destroyed the building, which was in a ruinous state until it was renovated in 1996. Originally, this was the home of the Viscounts Powerscourt. Since 1961 it has been owned by the Slazenger family of sporting goods fame. The house now contains Tara's Palace Museum of Childhood and a number of commercial enterprises
The extensive grounds of the estate are another attraction in their own right. Here you can explore Italian and Japanese gardens, a series of walled gardens, Triton Lake, Dolphin Pond, Tower Valley with its stone tower, and Bamberg Gate, amongst other features. There is also a pet cemetery with moving and personal tombstones. The gardens here regularly feature near the top of lists of the world's best gardens. The estate also has two par-72, 18-hole courses that allow a range of golf play and are used for high level golf competitions.
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Before leaving the area you should also make your way to the Powerscourt Waterfall, around 6-7 km south on the R760. This waterfall and the surrounding valley are also owned by Powerscourt Estate, though the two pieces of land are no longer directly connected.
Powerscourt Waterfall is the highest waterfall in Ireland, at 121 m in height. The waterfall cascades down in a picturesque landscape at the foothills of the Wicklow Mountains. As you drive down towards the waterfall, you will find yourself in a charming woodland of beech, oak, pine, and larch. You will also find some giant redwoods here, far from their native land of northern California.
The area around the waterfall is a haven for wildlife, including a range of birds and Sika deer, which were introduced to Ireland in 1858. Take your time as you wander along woodland paths and enjoy the scenic view of the waterfall itself. This could be a good spot for a picnic, if the weather is fine.
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Powerscourt Demesne, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow // GPS: 53.18472, -6.18694 // Check website for opening hours // Paid entry // http://powerscourt.com
Powerscourt - © Sento
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Powerscourt Demesne, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow // GPS: 53.146692, -6.211439 // Check website for opening hours // Paid entry // http://powerscourt.com
The next stop on this tour is an optional one involving a slight detour before we head into the Wicklow Mountains. Head northeast from the waterfall, take a right three times, and then head south for around 8.5 km. Should you wish to visit the Victor's Way Indian Sculpture Park, head left onto the R759 and immediately right onto the L1036. The sculpture park is on your left after around 600 m.
Victor's Way Indian Sculpture Park is not necessarily what you would expect to find in this lush Irish landscape. Designed as a contemplative space for adults, age restrictions apply. The park is populated by a series of sculptures in black granite and bronze. These include eight statues dedicated to Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu god. They were made in Tamil Nadu, India, and each took five craftsmen a year to finish. The park is open to the public during the high season.
Sallygap Road, Roundwood, Co. Wicklow // GPS: 53.085728, -6.218831 // Check website for opening hours // Paid entry // www.victorsway.eu
If you would rather skip the sculptures, then follow the instructions as above, but instead of turning left onto the R759, turn right and make your way up into the Wicklow Mountains. If you have been to the sculpture park, turn right and retrace your route to the junction. Turn left onto the R759 and you will begin to your journey into the Wicklow Mountains. The Wicklow Mountains, within the national park of the same name, contain the largest area of continuous high ground in Ireland. This is a scenically stunning part of Ireland with a number of natural attractions to enjoy.
The road you will find yourself on is one of the main east-west routes through the Wicklow Mountains. It heads to Sally Gap, location of a crossroads with roads going north to Dublin, west to Blessington, and south to Glendalough. You will approach this crossroads from the east. On your left as you climb higher you will see the dark water of Lough
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Tay (also known as Guinness Lake), and a little farther on you will cross the bridge from the film P.S. I Love You. You can also enjoy the wild, rugged landscape of blanket bog and heath.
GPS: 53.137002, –6.310129
At the crossroads, turn left and head south on the R115. This north-south pass is known as the Military Road. It was built by British Army forces after the Irish Rebellion of 1798 in an attempt to flush rebels from the hills and to gain better access for tackling insurgents. This was one of the first purpose-built roads in Ireland.
After just over 12 km on this winding and scenic Military Road, you will reach the breathtakingly beautiful Glenmacnass Waterfall (53.064272°N, -6.336838°W), on your right. There is a good view of this waterfall from the road.
Continue on and then, when you reach the small, picturesque village of Laragh, bear right onto the R755 and then continue straight onto the R756, then slightly left onto the R757 to reach Glendalough.
Glendalough is famous as the site of a monastic settlement dating from the early mediaeval period. It is one of the most visited places in Ireland and was founded by St 4
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Wicklow Mountains - © Marie-Lise Van Wassenhove
Kevin in the 6th century. In around 1042, oak timber from the site was used to build the second longest Viking longship ever recorded. It was 30 m long. St Laurence O'Toole became the Abbot here in 1128. The Book of Glendalough was written here in about 1131. The following century, the cultural and ecclesiastical power of Glendalough began to wane. Today you can still see many fascinating remains, including the Gateway, the Round Tower, a cathedral, the priests' house, and a number of churches and other features, though these remains tell only part of the story of this interesting complex. The visitor centre has an entry fee, but the monastic site itself can be explored free of charge.
GPS: 53.01198, -6.32984 // www.glendalough.ie
After spending some time exploring the monastic site, turn left onto the R756 and after around 23.5 km, take another left onto the N81. After just over 26 km turn right onto the R726, right then left across the R418, remaining on the R726. Brownshill Dolmen, your last stop for the day, will be on your left after nearly 7 km.
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Glendalough - © Shutterstock
Brownshill Dolmen/Kernanstown Cromlech, a megalithic portal tomb, is a wellknown historic landmark and national monument, and it is clearly visible from the road. The massive capstone on the top is estimated to weigh 100 metric tonnes, which makes it the heaviest in Europe. The structure was built between 4,000 and 3,000 BC by some of the earliest farmers to inhabit the area. Interestingly, not much is known about Brownshill Dolmen because it has never been excavated, so some mystery remains about the extent of the chamber. A path leads from the roadside car park, 200 m to the structure.
GPS: 52.83754, -6.88113
To reach Kilkenny, the end point for the day's tour, head northwest from the dolmen. Take the left onto Link Road and then, after 1.5 km, another left onto the N80. Follow signs for the M9 through the roundabouts and join the motorway. At junction 8, after around 27 km, take the N10 towards Kilkenny. This road will take you to the ring road, and from there you can follow signs to the city centre and its attractions. You will learn more about those on those on the next day of your tour.
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Brownshill Dolmen - © Snapboot
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This free travel guide contains a self-guided walking tour of Dublin and the first day of our self-guided road trip of Ireland.
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Buy the complete travel guide (PDF – 194 pages A4, easy to print or read on tablet), and explore the Emerald Isle with lots of practical information and tips by locals.
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