October 2014: The Culture Issue by W27 Newspaper

VOLUME 47 | ISSUE 2 | OCTOBER 2014

THE CULTURE ISSUE

MASTHEAD

FIT

Hermina Sobhraj Editor–in–Chief

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Dianna Mazzone Deputy Editor Molly Clarke Executive Editor Dara Kenigsberg Senior Editor Aaron Valentic Culture Editor Dara Kenigsberg Managing Editor

Understanding the idea of culture was never easy for me. Truthfully, every time I thought about writing this letter, a sense of uneasiness would soon follow. The same question would preoccupy my mind over and over again: “What is my culture?”

Aaron Valentic Culture Editor Dana Heyward Treasurer

W27NEWPAPER.COM Ana Knapp Community Manager

ART Kelly Millington Art Director

Furthermore, I whined to a friend about the endless amount of posters advertising the next ‘Chinese Conversation exhibit’ or ‘African Culture special’ that I kept encountering. This may sound like a ﬁrst world problem, but the endless options confused me. Living in New York City, I was constantly faced with an inundation of cultural choices; how was I supposed to understand it? “Hermina, pick the exhibits, shows, etcetera that you identify with and go to those,” my friend said. Just like that, her simple suggestion was the solution.

Jessica Henry Rachel Basel Emma Wood Junior Designers

I am my culture. It’s what I was born into, what I grew up with, my failures and achievements, my likes and dislikes…. It’s the fact that I was born Indian but have an unquestionable love for all things Japanese; that I study trade and marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology but I also frequent meditation sessions; and that I created a music blog solely dedicated to deep house and rap genres. For someone who could never really identify with the concept, culture, suddenly, had become the heart and core of me.

Vicky Mathew Photographer Jessica Blicksilver Illustrator

CONTRIBUTORS Cydney Alvarez Loren Adiutori Rachel Basel Kaylee Denmead Thais Derjangocyan Sarah Fielding Alexa Gordon Ashley Grubb Dana Heyward Nikki Lakin Alison Lo Allison Moran Tara O’Brien Kris Oca Shyam Patel Kaela Pﬂumm Kim Proschka Karen Wu

I realized that this month’s issue didn’t need to only highlight ethnic events, something culture is commonly associated with. It should cover everything from tech culture and consumer culture to street and art culture…just to name a few. Identify with The Culture Issue however you’d like. When you ﬂip through the pages, I hope it moves you to say, “that’s my culture.” Until next month,

John Simone Editorial Faculty Advisor

A FIT STUDENT ASSOCIATION PUBLICATION

ON THE COVER:

W27 IS PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PLEASE RECYCLE YOUR COPY AFTER READING.

Photographed by Vicky Pett, Darina May models Caleigh Giangregorio’s designs right on Broadway and 27th street. Her designs blend eﬀortlessly with the culture of New York City street style.

W27

OCTOBER 2014

CONTENTS 4 6 7 8 8 9 9 10 10

Christopher Wallace Bringing Luxury Retailers to Hudson Yards Faculty Spotlight: Mark Greiz Culture Shock: Visiting Israel During Wartime Campus Clubs on Our Radar Humans of FIT Sustainability in Bloom Museum at FIT: Dance & Fashion Talking Culture with Tyler Hart

DEAR INDUSTRY 11 11 12 12 13 13

Retail Revolution Twitter Joins E - Commerce Train Beauty Buzz: Cosmetics Culture Will Fast Fashion Ever Lose Its Edge? Metropolitan Opera Strike Over Carlos Aponte: An Undeniable Talent

FEATURE 14 15 16 17 18 20

When In Italy, Dress as the Italians Nicole Miller Pays Homage to Brazil The Indian Aesthetic Japanese Design Culture: Simplifying the Complex NYC Street Culture Editorial Fraud Exposed: ‘Zombies’ Haunt Social Media Venues

HAUTE CULTURE 21 22 22 23 23 24 24 25 25

TV Review: 4 Worth Watching: Fall TV Premieres Gallery Review: The Living Gallery Restaurant Review: Giano Concert Review: Fashion Rocks Film Review: This Is Where I Leave You Month In Review: Fighting for Democracy in Hong Kong Month In Review: CDC Conﬁrms First Case of Ebola on US Soil Month In Review: Peoples Climate March Breaks Records Month In Review: Emma Watson and the HeforShe Campaign

FIT SPEAKS 26 27 28

How to be a Parisian Wherever You Are Outside Your Borough Style on 27

LETTER FROM THE ART DIRECTOR

ON THE BLOCK

CULTURE IS AN INTERESTING AND INTEGRAL PART OF SO MANY PLACES AROUND THE WORLD. IT THRIVES WITHIN COMMUNITIES, COUNTRIES AND EVEN IN SMALL CLUBS AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY. CULTURE IS A BEAUTIFUL COMBINATION OF TRADITION AND EXPRESSION. NEW YORK CITY IS KNOWN FOR ITS DENSE POPULATION AND WITHOUT THE RICH CULTURE IT HAS, IT WOULDN’T BE THE SAME. IT’S RIGHT OUTSIDE YOUR DOORSTEP NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE IN NYC! GROWING UP IN A SMALL TOWN IN LONG ISLAND, I WAS NEVER EXPOSED TO THE DIFFERENT LIFESTYLES AND SURROUNDINGS THAT I AM TODAY. I FELT AS THOUGH I WAS SHELTERED AND TRAPPED IN A BUBBLE BACK HOME. I HAVE HAD SUCH AN AMAZING EXPERIENCE ATTENDING FIT - A SCHOOL

WITH SUCH A DIVERSE STUDENT BODY. I’VE MET SO MANY PEOPLE FROM PLACES I’VE NEVER BEEN AND IT HAS OPENED MY EYES TO NEW POSSIBILITIES OF TRAVEL AND INTERESTS IN THEIR CULTURES, HISTORY AND ART. THIS EDITION OF W27 FOCUSES ON THE DIVERSITY OF CULTURE THROUGHOUT NYC AND OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD AND HOW THEY ARE INTERPRETED THROUGH THE VISUALS OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND OVERALL AESTHETIC OF THE PAPER. IT IS IMPORTANT TO CREATE AWARENESS ABOUT CULTURE AND I HOPE THIS WILL INSPIRE READERS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CONNECTION BETWEEN CULTURE AND ART.

ON THE BLOCK Christopher Wallace: President of the FIT Student Association by Hermina Sobhraj

BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN STUDENT GOVERNMENT AND STUDENT BODY

Photo courtesy of Christopher Wallace It’s no secret that a position of leadership comes with its own set of demands and challenges. It’s a balancing act that’s often met with praise, criticism or indifference. Amidst the speeches, the decision - making, etc., the name in charge increasingly becomes perceived as just that: a name. Christopher Wallace is the new president of the FIT Student Association. He, along with many other leaders around us, are no stranger to being perceived this way. Being in a position of leadership myself, it was extremely refreshing to be able to associate Wallace with more than just his name. Wallace is a Production Management major with a minor in both Ethics and Sustainability and has a part - time job as E - commerce Manager at Melissa Shoes

USA. With a lot on his plate as it is, prioritizing student government should come as a challenge, but Wallace has always felt a particularly special connection to building student involvement. To him, being President is not just another job.

He described his first experiences at the Fashion Institute of Technology as “feeling like a kid in a candy store.” Coming from New York City’s College of Technology, City Tech, he was moved by FIT’s continued efforts to keep students engaged. “From the first day I was here I came into the mind frame of student involvement.” It was his sophomore year when that mind frame materialized. Becoming president of Theatre Ensemble, he became well associated with the achievements, ambitions and obstacles of student government. After much advocacy by his peers, including previous president of the FIT Student Association, David Hamilton, Wallace ran for the presidency. He’s the first student in FIT history to hold this

position as a third year student (all were formerly held by Seniors). Wallace has assumed a position that puts him at the forefront of handling over 10,000 students’ needs. He alongside the FIT Student Association are constantly pressed for a new vision to make the school a cohesive, engaging community. “So far, I’ve brainstormed,” he joked. “But really, how to get students more connected to the school is something I hold near and dear to my heart.” His primary goal is to identify the student demographic and what they want. To him the key behind this is eliminating the gap between the FIT Student Association and the rest of the student body.

Joyce F. Brown attend Student Council meetings, creating open sessions where students can voice their opinions freely and honestly and bringing in alumni to enrich the experience of the student body. “Even if not everyone wants it [student involvement], a lot of people do,” he states. “We just need to make sure that what people want to get involved in, we provide them with.” To kick off the school year, Wallace and the student association have created Legacy Week, beginning October 27. The main event? A comedy show with Carly Aquilino, Nicole Byer and Andrew Schulz - guest stars from MTV’s Girl Code.

“HOW TO GET STUDENTS MORE CONNECTED TO THE SCHOOL IS SOMETHING I HOLD NEAR AND DEAR TO Assuming a leaderrole is never a MY HEART.” ship simple task, but after

“People have the option to do other things off campus. We’re [student government] competing with New York City and I think what we have to realize is that instead of competing, we need to enhance what we have here.” He and the association are working on having President Dr.

a chat with Wallace on the upcoming school year, I think it’s safe to say that he along with the rest of student government are taking steps – more like leaps – in the right direction.

W27

OCTOBER 2014

ON THE BLOCK

FIT

Bringing Luxury Retailers to Hudson Yards by Alexa Gordon

In New York City change is inevitable. One day you’re planning on trying that great new restaurant three blocks away and the next there’s an “Out of Business” sign on the door and it’s gone for good. That said, it should come as no surprise that once again there are big changes on the horizon, and they are happening in the Fashion Institute of Technology’s backyard. Hudson Yards, which encompasses the stretch of land occupied by rail yards across from FIT dorm Kaufman Hall (stretching from 30th to 33rd Street between 10th and 12th Avenues), is the next big thing in urban development. According to the ofﬁcial Hudson Yards New York website, “….More than 24 million people will visit Hudson Yards every

“RETAIL GIANT NEIMAN MARCUS PLANS TO OPEN THEIR FIRST NEW YORK CITY STORE IN 2018” year. The site will ultimately include more than 17 million square feet of commercial and residential space, 5 state - of - the - art ofﬁce towers, more than 100 shops, a collection of restaurants, approximately 5,000 residences, a unique cultural space, 14 acres of public open space, a 750 - seat

public school and a 175 - room luxury hotel....” With construction already underway, companies have been taking notice of the highly anticipated property and big names have already solidified their stakes in property ownership of the new development. Rumored to be completed around 2018, Hudson Yards’ Eastern Yards section, which spans from 10th to 11th avenue, will include six skyscrapers organized around open parks and public squares that will be built on top of the current rail yards that facilitate transportation in and out of the city. It has also been confirmed that the Eastern Yards will be the new home of Time Warner Inc., Neiman Marcus, Coach, L’Oréal USA, SAP, and Fairway Market, to name a few. Time Warner Inc. will leave its current location at Columbus Circle and move to Hudson Yards upon completion in 2018. They will occupy and anchor one of the six buildings, owning almost 40% of the 2.6 million sq. ft. available. “…Moving our New York City - based employees into a dynamic new complex will foster even more collaboration, creativity and efficiency across our businesses,” commented Jeffrey L. Bewkes, the chairman of Time Warner Inc., according to the New York Times. Retail giant Neiman Marcus plans to open their first New York City store in 2018 as well. It will occupy 250,000 sq. ft. on the top 3 floors of one of the six buildings. The hope is that the presence of such a high end luxury retailer will attract other high - end retailers and restaurants to fill the approximately 100 available storefronts and restaurant space that will be available.

Construction on the Western Illustrtation by Jessica Blicksilver Yards, the mostly residential

Photo courtesy of hudsonyardnyc.com section of Hudson Yards, has not yet begun, and likely will not start for a few more years, while developers work on successfully completing the Eastern Yards. This is sure to have an impact on life in and around FIT. Kaufman Hall has been, and will continue to be, affected the greatest. A statement on the FIT website addresses the construction: “As Kaufman Hall is continuing to develop, the neighborhood is as well. From new public spaces, like the famous ‘High Line’ park that is within walking distance, to the redevelopment of the Hudson Yards area, these continuing construction projects are serving to invigorate the neighborhood all with an eye toward the future. While these projects may cause some inconvenience, we are conﬁdent that you will ﬁnd our facilities and location convenient, clean, safe and affordable….” Only the future knows what will become of Hudson Yards and the far West Side,

“OUR AREA TRANSFORMS INTO THE NEWEST HOT SPOT OF NYC.” but being in the center of the madness now will no doubt pay off in the next few years as our area transforms into the newest hot spot of NYC.

W27

OCTOBER 2014

Faculty Spotlight:

Mark Greiz by Kaela Pflumm

Mark Greiz: I never had a plan or desire to work in fashion per se. My interest during my studies was a focus on the Asian markets, particularly Japan. It is really by opportunity that I started to work in this industry. However my advice to students who want to pursue a career in the industry is to go to a reputable fashion school such as FIT. I meet many people mid career that want to change jobs and work in fashion and it is much more difﬁcult to do than pursuing a career in fashion right out of school. I think students that are attending FIT made the right choice.

Photo courtesy of Mark Greiz

KP: What aspects of the fashion industry are your favorites?

Fast fashion especially has conditioned consumers to want disposable cheap fashion, which lowers working wages in developing countries. It has an effect on working conditions and has a negative impact on the environment. I do see changes, albeit slowly, and feel that the industry overall is moving in a positive direction to deal with some of these issues - but I feel there is still more that can be done.

“MY ADVICE TO STUDENTS WHO WANT TO PURSUE A CAREER IN THE INDUSTRY IS TO GO TO A REPUTABLE FASHION SCHOOL SUCH AS FIT.”

For this month’s faculty spotlight, we wanted to feature a professor with experience that pays homage to this issue’s theme: culture. Mark Greiz, a professor in the department of International Trade and Marketing, began teaching at the Fashion Institute of Technology in 2011 and has been exposed to numerous cultures throughout his career. Raised in Queens, he attended the University of Hawaii and graduated with an MBA in International Business. Over the past 20 years, Greiz has worked throughout the Asia Paciﬁc region with a variety of brands such as Oyea Optical and Frankie Xie. He’s also no stranger to many different industries including fashion and apparel, salon and spa, cosmetics, health and ﬁtness, outdoor sports and home décor and textiles.

MG: What I like about fashion is that it’s a very dynamic industry with numerous new brands launching each year and that there will always be a market for fashion goods. Barriers to entry are also falling since many new brands do not need to rely on the established fashion media to promote their brand nor do they need to invest in costly distribution infrastructure.

With each of the brands he worked in, Professor Greiz was given the opportunity to work in different aspects of their business such as market development, retail store design, licensing, brand position, product strategy and marketing communications. Bringing such a wide range of work and world experience to the table, we decided to sit down with Professor Greiz and pick his brains on culture, fashion, business and what it all means to him.

Likewise, large markets such as China and India have been liberalizing laws in foreign direct investment so we are also seeing new and exciting global opportunities emerging as well. Even small brands from the US and Europe now have opportunities to launch stores in China or India without the need for local partners and I feel continued globalization will spur even more growth and creativity within the industry. It’s a very exciting time to be involved in it.

Kaela Pﬂumm: You received an MBA from the University of Hawaii; when did you know you wanted to be involved in the fashion industry and why?

conscious individual who has worked with manufacturing facilities in emerging markets for nearly twenty years, it has always been difﬁcult for me to witness the polluting, and often times, negative social effects fashion companies have on the environment and community.

KP: What aspects of the fashion industry are your least favorites? MG: As a socially and environmentally

KP: Our issue’s theme is culture. What is culture to you? How can you describe it to students in the fashion industry?

MG: The role of culture in fashion is quite complex; it can mean anything from traditional dress to what is deemed appropriate dress for a society...it can be non verbal communication through fashion as interpreted by a certain society or even the aesthetic appreciation of certain fashion styles. But due to technology, we are seeing a trend of market convergence within certain demographic segments such as Gen Y consumers. For example, trends indicate that teens in Tokyo, New York, London and Sao Paulo may share more similarities with each other than with members of different generational cohorts in their own culture. For example, a teen in Tokyo may have more in common in terms of tastes and preferences with a teen in New York than with someone of their parent’s generation. This is creating

a lot of exciting opportunities within fashion for big and small companies alike to create global brands due to the increased cultural borrowing amongst certain segments of society. KP: Can you name one time when culture was a hindrance to your business? How about when it was an advantage? MG: If you come to one of my classes I tell many stories about my times when I ﬁrst moved to Japan and my need to integrate into the Japanese culture - especially the corporate culture. Since we live in a global world, it is very important that individuals do not adopt a very ethnocentric view of culture, meaning that they feel their culture is supreme and if it is proper in their own society then it should be that way in another society. We must always remember that customs are different in different countries and it is not just a question of not offending someone, but it is really important to respect and understand the cultural nuances in the places you visit or do business. We discuss these issues a lot in our global marketing class. KP: Do you feel like the students at FIT need to be more aware of the different cultures constantly affecting the fashion industry? MG: FIT is a microcosm of what New York is about - a melting pot of people and students from all over the world, but I often see cliques of students from one country sticking together. I feel there should be more organized opportunities to mingle with students of other cultures as there is so much we can learn from each other. I do not think we just need to pay attention to the effect culture has on the industry, but need to realize that today’s students live in the most globalized world that has ever existed. Even if someone has no interest in traveling abroad, if they work in fashion they will be affected by other cultures and other countries. It is critical to understand the greater world in terms of culture, history, politics and current events.

ON THE BLOCK

FIT

Culture Shock: Visiting Israel During Wartime by Rachel Basel

Traveling the world and having as many unique, cultural experiences as possible is often a goal for many young people, myself included. We often imagine the foods we’ll taste, people we’ll meet and sights we’ll see, but never do we consider coming into real - live contact with war in a foreign country as a legitimate possibility. Like many young Jewish people, I visited Israel through Birthright this past summer. I was expecting it to be the trip of a lifetime; instead, a war broke out when I landed. For those who are unfamiliar with the organization, Birthright pays for young Jews to go to Israel, giving them a chance to appreciate their homeland and become more familiar with Jewish and Israeli culture. The trip is meant to instill a great sense of pride in one’s people, but regardless of biases, it provides genuine insight into the Israeli - Palestinian conflict. I don’t consider myself to be extremely knowledgeable of politics and the Middle Eastern conflict was something I felt entirely unfamiliar with. However experiencing it first - hand was quite an education. My group and I were shopping in Jerusalem one day when we heard the sirens go off, cautioning us to take cover. Many of us, myself included were

panicked and anxious as to what was going to happen. The Iron Dome, Israel’s primary air defense system, deflected a rocket - this was the first ever bomb explosion I had heard in person. The people around us hadn’t so much as flinched; they continued to go about their days, selling kippas and jewelry. That moment was the biggest culture shock I had ever experienced and something I will never forget. A day later, we heard the sirens go off again when we were in our hotel.

Eastern conﬂict as a whole is hard for us to comprehend, because Western views are startlingly different. At the end of the day, the majority of us look at the issues coming out of that region in amazement and disbelief, but for terrorist groups such as Hamas, it’s a “sensible” way of life.

“AS STUDENTS OF FIT, WE COULD NEVER IMAGINE FASHION AND DANGER COMING FACE TO FACE WITH ONE ANOTHER.”

A common misconception of Israel is that being in the country during a war is incredibly dangerous and you’re lucky if you come out alive. But a huge part of what we learned is that the country, as a whole, is pretty calm, even in times of threatening danger. This explains Americans’ understanding of the situation because many media reports tends to make things fuzzy. Middle

My trip to Israel gave me a profound new meaning of the phrase “culture shock.” It opened my eyes to the thousands of people affected when lives were lost and whole cities were destroyed in the Gaza Strip. This type of conﬂict has been impacting life in Israel since its establishment in 1948, bringing danger to businesses some of us would never even consider, such as the fashion industry. Students at Shenkar College of Engineering and Design just this past summer heard warnings of an impending missile shower just moments before

a fashion show in which their designs were showcased. Leah Perez, head of the fashion program at the school, had to make the decision whether to evacuate the building or not. She decided against it because she felt the students deserved to have their work seen. She told The New York Times that these are, “the kinds of questions that probably would never occur to her peers at the Istituto Marangoni or Central Saint Martins or the Fashion Institute of Technology.” As students of FIT, we could never imagine fashion and danger coming face to face with one another. But this isn’t the first time these two have collided in Israel. In 2012, a similar situation occurred when rockets were fired into Tel Aviv for the first time in 21 years. This was also during Fashion Week and that too continued without interruption. One of the most powerful things that I took away from my trip was the Israelis’ ability to look past negativity and fear in order to develop, design, create and flourish. Waking up in a country where things are simple and terrorist attacks are often just threats is now something I’ll never fail to cherish and appreciate.

Campus Clubs On Our Radar by Ashley Grubb

THE CLUBS OF OUR CAMPUS MAKE UP THE CORE OF STUDENT CULTURE. WITH OVER 60 CLUBS, IT’S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO CHOOSE JUST ONE. THE FIT CLUB FAIR TOOK PLACE LAST MONTH AND WE DECIDED TO GIVE YOU A CLOSER LOOK AT SOME OF THE CLUBS WE THINK ARE REALLY GOING TO MAKE AN IMPACT: Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Thursdays; Room A644 Are you passionate about social and environmental change in the fashion industry? Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Club brings students together to discuss social and environmental issues that affect the fashion industry; such as sustainability, human rights, animal welfare, social entrepreneurship, corporate transparency, community engagement and many more. In the past, CSR Club has partnered with Fashion Revolution Day to launch a social media campaign to commemorate the victims of Rana Plaza, Bangladesh, the deadliest garment factory accident in history. They’ve also hosted an Organic Dye workshop, using roots, leaves and ﬂowers to dye silk scarves and cotton handkerchiefs. CSR Club President Liz Pulos said, “As the next generation of fashion professionals, we have the ability to create more ethical, responsible and successful businesses, while building careers we can truly feel good about.” This semester the club plans to host a school - wide clothing swap and anything left over will be donated to Wearable Collections, a social enterprise that distributes recycled clothing to needy

charities. Sign up for their newsletter by emailing csr_club@ﬁtnyc.edu to help out with this event and many more to come. FIT OUTREACH Every other Tuesday; Room A321A If you’re looking for a great way to meet other students and make a positive impact on the community, then FIT OUTREACH might be the perfect ﬁt for you. Formerly known as the Faith & Fellowship club, FIT OUTREACH is now an organization that practices non - religious community service. “It’s all about giving back,”said the club’s president Armane Robinson. Last year, the club in conjunction with Macy’s was able to provide Thanksgiving dinner to many who would otherwise have gone without. This year the club is exploring their options for projects with Habitat for Humanity. One constant partnership is with the Ronald McDonald House. Once a semester the students of FIT OUTREACH cook either breakfast, lunch or dinner for those in the hospital. Club members pride themselves on serving healthy and fresh foods with both vegan and vegetarian options and for having separate dishes for children and their parents to enjoy. Although the club is already associated with large organizations, they are welcome ideas from new students. Feel like

giving back? Join the club every Tuesday from 1 - 2 PM. National Retail Federation Student Association (NRFSA) Thursdays; Room A306 Although the club is still fairly new on campus, National Retail Federation Student Association (NRFSA) is already making a huge impact on the students involved. Vice President Alexa Genova said, “It’s incredible to watch how these people grow.” She says she’s watched students come to their first meetings shy and timid and emerge not too long after with the self - assurance and skills they need to succeed in their careers. The goal of the club is to help students boost their confidence in the work field. During meetings, club members participate in various workshops such as discussing the benefits of professional networking, using Linkedin and resume building. Alongside workshops, members are treated to a plethora of esteemed guest speakers from companies like Chanel and Brooks Brothers and trips to Macy’s corporate headquarters. This year, the NRFSA will be welcoming the CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) as a guest speaker. It’s clear that NRFSA is following a clear path to success, much like its members.

Runway27 Tuesdays; Room C504 You may be familiar with the name Fashion Show Club, which came to fruition in Spring 2013, but the club recently changed its name to honor its tag line “27th Street is our Runway.” Runway27 works with a variety of brands, vendors, designers and sponsors to create show stopping fashion events on and off campus. Their annual primary event for the fall semester is less than two months away: a fashion show themed Villains that will feature runway looks inspired by classic Disney and Marvel evil - doers. Creating an entire fashion show requires a multitude of jobs. From stage lighting and DJ sourcing to creating campaigns and ﬁnding sponsors, Runway 27 constantly has a lot on their plate. While the club usually holds a smaller event in the spring, because of its increasing popularity they are hoping to bring in guest speakers and host a spring fashion show. It seems like the name is not the only thing that’s changed about Runway 27. They’re deﬁnitely on a roll, winning Most Interactive Club at this year’s club fair, and we’re certainly interested to see what they have next in store.

W27

OCTOBER 2014

Humans of FIT by Tara O’Brien

HUMANS OF NEW YORK (HONY) IS A RENOWNED PHOTOGRAPHY BLOG CREATED BY BRANDON STANTON. HE DOCUMENTS HIS SUBJECTS IN A COMPLETELY TRANSPARENT LIGHT AND INSPIRED US TO DO THE SAME WITH HUMANS OF FIT. HONY RECENTLY FINISHED A 50 - DAY WORLD TOUR SPONSORED BY THE UNITED NATIONS, WHICH ALLOWED STANTON TO DOCUMENT PEOPLE ACROSS THE WORLD. Israel From Ecuador Illustration major

“I DON’T CARE. I WANT TO TRY IT. I WANT TO DO IT.”

“So do you think when you’re done with school you will go back to Ecuador?” “Oh no, not at all. I’m here and I haven’t gone back and I just - I can’t. It just feels weird. It’s the city that makes you work for everything you do. It actually makes you pull out your skills to a certain level to obtain what you’re looking for. In other places you get it somehow easier, and maybe faster, but the fact that you’re here, it makes it more...it’s more reliable.

Alejandra From Venezuela Photography major “Since I was little, like 7 years old, my dad got me a camera, like one of those Kodak cameras, the disposable ones. I took pictures with that and had them developed and fell in love with it. My family went crazy because in my country it’s like ‘A photographer? You’re going to starve yourself! That’s not a career!’ And I was like ‘I don’t care. I want to try it. I want to do it. Art in my country is not really like a thing. You don’t do that as a living, you know.”

In the long run it’s going to be worth it. You’re going to become better than maybe other designers in other cities.”

“YOU’RE GOING TO BECOME BETTER THAN MAYBE OTHER DESIGNERS IN OTHER CITIES.”

Sustainability in Bloom by Cydney Alvarez

Located on the roof of the Marvin Feldman Center (C Building) is one of the Fashion Institute of Technology’s prized sustainable initiatives: an all-natural dye garden. Three students, Caitlin Powell,

“THE NATURAL DYE GARDEN ACTS AS A STARTING POINT FOR SUSTAINABLE DESIGN AND PRODUCTION ON CAMPUS.” Amber Härkönen and Megan Narvoy, created the garden in hopes of showcasing

sustainability to their peers in an enjoyable manner. Alongside the garden, they designed an informational booklet to act as a guide for other students interested in natural dyeing to pick up where they left off. The guide includes a list of what they planted (fennel, hollyhocks, indigo, purple cabbage, rosemary, zinnias, Black eyed Susan’s, Queen Anne’s lace and purple basil), what produces the best colors and what harvests grew well last year. They also included some recommendations about what to plant next spring. The garden brings awareness to sustainable dyeing practices and shows stydents how to move away from environmentally - damaging practices within the textile industry. Some of these practices include the usage of too much water, toxic dyes and harmful chemicals which are then used to produce products that enter the fast fashion cycle. Dyeing with natural resources can combat the excess pollutants and may even improve the way fabric is composted. Textile Development and

Marketing student Lydia Baird is starting a unique research project in conjunction with the dye garden to explore the idea of fabric composting, as well as the way natural dyes compost in comparison. She summed up the dye garden by saying, “The natural dye garden acts as a starting point for sustainable design and production on campus. By assessing how different fabrics and dyes compost, the club can help students make informed choices about what materials to use in their projects. Eventually, we hope to set up a program where muslin and other natural materials could be composted safely and efﬁciently at FIT.” While the dye garden is still particularly young and subject to undergoing adverse effects of weather changes, the potential and the positive effects of the garden are

Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver widely recognized. With such a unique resource, we’re excited that those from all majors will get to experiment with the dyes within their own interests.

ON THE BLOCK

FIT

Museum at FIT: Dance & Fashion by Molly Clarke

Step into the Museum at FIT’s “Dance & Fashion” exhibit and suddenly you’re in the midst of an 1830’s ballet. The lights are dim, the music is mellow and the dancers, with their ballet slippers in-tow, have taken their place on stage. Designs from the era of the Romantic Ballet explore both men’s and women’s costumes, evoking the timeless appeal of a ballerina’s world. In this section, two pieces worn by two of the most famous male ballet dancers, Rudolf Nureyev and Mikhail Baryshnikov, are on display. This section also features a costume worn by the Spanish ballerina Fanny Elssler along with the development of the ballet practice uniform. One of the dresses featured in the exhibit was from Yves Saint Laurent’s 1976 Ballets Russes collection, which has been considered one of his most revolutionary collections of the time. Laurent’s inspiration drew solely from the Russian Ballet and the collection featured gypsy skirts (as seen at the museum), paisley shawls and boyar coats. Think babushka peasants de luxe, if you will.

Multiple pieces from the New York City Ballet and Paris Opera Ballet were featured within the exhibition, adding to the global impact of fashion and dance. Designs from Prabal Gurung, Oliver Theyskens, Stella McCartney, Rodarte and Giles Mendel can be seen on display as well. McCartney had designed a tattooed mens leotard for the show “Ocean’s Kingdom,” complete with a spiked headpiece. Theyskens designed a dress based off of the concept of “The Scarlet Letter,” with a scarlet fabric letter sewn into the back of the dress. Likewise, Riccardo Tisci had created a beautiful and sheer long sleeved dress for the Parisian ballet “Bolero,” in which he outlined the skeleton in a silver sparkle, all the way up to the neck.

an exaggerated bump on the costumes, placed on different areas of the body.

Two modern designers on exhibit were Rick Owens and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Owens’ spring/ summer 2014 collection was entirely inspired by step dance and his runway show featured an African - American step - dancing group performance. Kawakubo had designed the Bump dress for the ballet “Scenario,” which featured

“Dance & Fashion” will be on display at the Museum at FIT from September 13 to January 3, 2015.

Apart from dresses and costumes, “Dance & Fashion” also held a notable collection of ballet slippers and other shoes influenced by dance. Such included pairs of ballet slippers belonging to Anna Pavlova and Margot Fonteyn, Alexander McQueen shoes with a toe shaped in the form of a ballet slipper and a pair of Christian Louboutin “heels.” The shoes are, in essence, flats, but with an eight inch heel attached; the flat is pointed downward, like a ballerina’s foot would be during a routine. Also included were a pair of 18 inch Noritaka Tatehana platforms, worn by Lady Gaga in her music video, “Marry The Night.“

Talking Culture with Tyler Hart by Alison Lo

Tyler Hart, president of WFIT, is all smiles as he greets me and leads us down to the basement of the D building. For a while, it's a labyrinth of vacant hallway after vacant hallway, but he never skips a beat as he walks me through a brief history of WFIT. As FIT's premiere broadcasting station, WFIT has expanded to include a fully - functioning studio with coverage on events both on - campus and off, including the recent Mercedes - Benz Fashion Week. As president of the publication, Hart discloses a bit of insider information: plans to facilitate a collaboration with the prestigious New York Times. After a seemingly endless maze of linoleum tiles, we end up at WFIT’s News Studio - located in the mostly overlooked basement of FIT's A building. He feels right at home as he plops down on one of the couches, lovingly critiquing the studio’s bare walls and lack of color like any doting parent would a child. Allison Lo: As you might already know, this month’s issue focuses on culture. Some people say fashion is the voice of culture. How has that been true for you in your career? Tyler Hart: I think just being at the Fashion Institute of Technology has really exposed me to a different aspect of culture. Fashion is everywhere and a lot of people take it for granted, and I was one of those people. Before I came to FIT...it

was more just about a look - I didn’t really think of fashion as a cultural standard. However, being at FIT, even if fashion isn’t necessarily something I want to dive into outside of my studies here, I’ve definitely been exposed to just how much of a cultural standard it really is. Especially when we do fashion week with WFIT, we go behind the scenes, and just being around a lot of designers and stylists, people whose lives revolve around fashion, has shown me a whole different world out there. AL: The FIT community is a melting pot of sorts, with different cultures from all around the world. How has this exposure changed your perception of fashion? TH: Coming to FIT, like you said, it really is a melting pot. Coming to FIT really opened me up and helped me learn about myself. I come from a small town in Pennsylvania that is very close - minded, and even just being in New York City and stepping foot on a sidewalk for the first time really made me change the way I thought about certain things. Learning about fashion and applying that through culture, you are able to find out who you are as a person. This is where your life basically starts, because you are not being sheltered by your parents and you are actually focusing on what you want and how you are going to sustain yourself. AL: The FIT museum is known for its great fashion exhibits. There’s always

a cool new exhibit to see, from the JFK exhibit to the recent Trendology exhibit, which one has really stood out to you? TH: I love abstract, avant - garde style; it’s very over the top, which was why I absolutely loved the Daphne Guinness exhibit. I was very familiar with who she was prior to her presentation at WFIT, so when she came I was over the moon. A lot of students were like “oh, she was like, a fashion icon” but she is also the heiress of the largest beer distributor in the world. I think it’s funny; you don’t think of people running alcohol companies as being very fashionable but I thought the way she pulled herself together was very sexy. AL: What are your thoughts on student culture at FIT? How do you propose we get more connected as a community? TH: I feel like the school forces you to become a very independent student as soon as you get here. And at ﬁrst I was intimidated by that but I respect the school doing that. I know that a lot of large campuses kind of hold your hand through your entire career at school and FIT is like, “OK, here’s your material. Fend for yourself. Congrats if you’re able to do it but sorry if you’re not able to do it.” It’s very hard because you are put in an environment where there are tons of people from different backgrounds and cultural settings and sometimes you start off getting to know these cultures but then eventually that sizzles away as you

Photo courtesy of Tyler Hart.

get tunnel - minded, and focus on just getting your work done. And I feel like everyone needs to be aware of that and take the time to expand your horizons and join organizations such as WFIT and W27. Networking and expanding your contacts. Take the time to network. A lot of people don’t know where to start or where to begin - I still feel that way....I deﬁnitely feel like it can be very challenging here, but all the puzzle pieces are in place, it’s just kind of how you decide to put the puzzle together, and how fast or how slow you connect the pieces.

DEAR INDUSTRY Retail Revolution: Is Technology Becoming The New Face of Fashion? by Thais Derjangocyan

Ever think about how while Abercrombie and Fitch’s sales are declining, Apple’s sales are flourishing? What does Apple have that A&F doesn’t? Brand devotion and many fashion retailers find it lacking in their customer base. If anyone has attained brand devotion, it’s unarguably Apple. The company has kept a large base of their customers satisfied by providing product excellence and quality service. The question is: Does Apple have the power to influence a consumer’s fashion sense? In 2013, Apple Insider reported that Paul Deneve, former CEO of Saint Laurent, took a position at Apple to help them out with “special projects.” Angela Ahrendts, former CEO of British - based company Burberry, was not too far behind in joining the company. It’s no surprise then that Apple’s acquisition of major fashion executives has led to them to becoming fashion influencers. On September 9, 2014, Apple debuted the iWatch. It’s the first time consumers have seen a product of this type from the company - one that combines technology and fashion. As expected, a plethora of

editors and bloggers from fashion - based publications were invited to attend the product’s press release. Apple hopes to make the watch “equal parts gadget and fashion...,” reports Apple Insider. The company hopes to get to know its customer on a personal and practical level. Apple also will target both men and women by having two different ﬁts and will come in a variety of styles from iWatch sport to iWatch regular. The product is aimed towards a broad range of consumers; one of which is the fashion consumer.

year old model, said, “It’s deﬁnitely more exciting for a lot of teenagers to have a new phone that can do lots of cool stuff than clothing. A phone keeps you much more entertained. It’s a better distraction than clothing.” Myers recently went to an Apple store in Manhattan to purchase her new iPhone. Likewise, people are ﬁnding that the latest technology is the newest way to make a fashion statement. Eva Chen, editor - in - chief of Lucky Magazine said, “Having a cool phone to show you’re plugged in is a huge part of people’s style, a huge part of life these days.” With this in mind, the fashion industry may suffer because of technology - customers are now abandoning traditional shopping habits like going back - to - school shopping for clothes, and instead saving up for a fancy new case for their new iPhone 6, which, coincidentally, came out in September.

“DOES APPLE HAVE THE POWER TO INFLUENCE A CONSUMER’S FASHION SENSE?”

With technology integrating with fashion more every day, it is beginning to change the fashion consumers’ traditional shopping habits. Customers are becoming more concerned with obtaining the latest tech gadget as opposed to the latest style of jeans. Will technology soon be favored over fashion? CNBC reported that Nicole Myers, a 19

Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver

As technology increasingly becomes a part of the accepted culture and norm, people are going to be buying it to represent themselves as modern consumers. Since fashion is always up to date with the latest trends, it’s no surprise to see it merging with technology. As Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.”

Twitter Joins E-Commerce Train by Jessica Henry

Since its launch in 2006, Twitter has been the social media site where users can post about their day as it happens. The funny incident that happened on their morning commute, the annoyance of their day at work and the movie they watched when they got home can all be shared in a short, 140 - character tweet. Twitter has grown immensely since it launched. The site has 271 million users that send 500 million tweets every day. Twitter has developed a new feature that will make the app more than just a way to update followers about your day. On September 8, they announced that a small percentage of their US users would now be able to discover and buy new products from tweets on their timeline. Tweets from select test partners feature a “Buy” button, which allows users to purchase directly from the tweet instead of being redirected to a website. Twitter is partnering with other companies in this endeavor. Social shopping site Fancy, direct - to - consumer e - commerce company Musictoday, entrepreneur help site Gumroad and payment platform Stripe all teamed up with Twitter to build the idea. A select group of brands, artists and nonproﬁt organizations are collaborating with Twitter to test this service. Some of the key partners (full list available at blog. twitter.com) are: Burberry, Demi Lovato,

Eminem, Global Citizen, The Home Depot, Pharrell and (RED). In today’s world, the issue of online security is at the forefront of services like these. Users might be nervous to include credit card information on a social media app. After the first purchase, credit card information is encrypted and stored so it does not have to be entered at every purchase but can be removed by the user at any time. Twitter promises low risk to users, but can we trust them? The purpose of Twitter’s latest and greatest is not to sell virtual goods, such as gift cards, but physical products. For example, Demi Lovato can send a tweet about her new CD, and the tweet would include the buy now button. Home Depot could tweet about a DIY project with a buy now button for the list of supplies. Nonprofits like (RED) could send a tweet advertising a celebrity signed T - shirt with 50% of the profits going to fight HIV. This new commerce platform will not have any impact on Twitter’s revenue this year. But down the line, certainly, there seems significant potential from the cut they can take from purchases that happen on its platform. Additionally, retailers would buy advertising to get more people to see the goods they’re selling. Twitter’s foray into e - commerce is only one example of the impact online is

having on consumer culture. Facebook introduced their own version of a “Buy” button earlier this summer. The article Facebook posted on facebook.com/business in July explaining the feature looks eerily similar to the one Twitter posted on their blog later in September. With the emergence of social media buying and the increase of websites like Amazon, it raises the question: “Is physical retail dying out?” According to Business Insider, sales in the retail industry dropped both online and ofﬂine with the recession in 2008. Ofﬂine sales growth has gone down since 2011 while online sales have risen to 1 in 20 retail dollars made online. Mobile sales are quickly increasing and will only continue to do so with Twitter’s advancement.

Rosario says, “I shop in - store as a social event. The experience is as important as the product. It’s a good time to socialize.” However Twitter feels a strong trend toward online. “First, we’ll use the signal and the incredible data that we get from tweets to really tailor the experience to you,” Nathan Hubbard, Twitter’s commerce chief, said on cnbc.com. “The second is this direct connection and the kinds of exclusive and limited edition products that can happen when you have that direct relationship. And the third is...we’re in a world that’s moving to on - demand services - and so anything temporal, with urgency, with perishability we think will work on Twitter.”

They continued to report that the difference is even larger when looking at younger generation spending habits. Generation Z, those aged 18 to 24, spend almost one in ten of their dollars online. Despite having ultra - low incomes, Generation Z spends the highest share of their income online: 9%. As they age and make more money, that will drive big gains in e - commerce growth. Being the main users of Twitter, Generation Z’s reaction to the “Buy” button will determine its success or failure. Despite the numbers, some Fashion Institute of Technology students believe physical retail has many beneﬁts. Fashion merchandising management major Ziara

Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver

DEAR INDUSTRY

FIT

Beauty Buzz: Cosmetics Culture: The Little - Known World of Niche by Dianna Mazzone

If your signature scent is backed by a celebrity (ahem, Fantasy by Britney Spears), then take heed: The world of fragrance extends far beyond the glossy ads in fashion magazines. In fact, some of the most complex and covetable scents in the world have been bottled by brands completely unfamiliar to most consumers. Dubbed “niche fragrances” by perfume lovers in the know, these small - batch

and you won’t ﬁnd these fragrances at just any department store counter. Considering the personal nature of perfume, it’s no wonder these specialty scents are making a splash in a world where consumers can customize everything from cars to clothing. But smelling unlike anyone else on the street can cost a pretty penny - many niche fragrances come with triple digit price tags, a reﬂection of the quality and quantity of production. For true fragrance fans, however, it’s a small price to pay for a truly one - of - a kind olfactive experience. Go ahead - sniff out the niche fragrance scene at one of these four NYC scent destinations.

TWISTED LILY, 360 ATLANTIC AVE, BROOKLYN, NY

Photo courtesy of Le Labo scents, produced by artisanal studios, are anything but run - of - the - mill. There’s an entire subculture of fragrance aﬁcionados who seek out the rarest of the rare,

Brooklyn - based Twisted Lily is a fragrance boutique like no other. Specializing in niche, indie and natural fragrances from all over the world, Twisted Lily has become something of a landmark in its own right. It’s well worth the trip to Boerum Hill to explore their stock, which also includes “modern

apothecary” offerings such as skin care, grooming and beauty products.

LE LABO, 14 WEST 29TH STREET, NEW YORK, NY Just blocks away from campus lies a fragrance lover’s fantasy in the form of Le Labo at the Ace Hotel. The bicoastal brand has gained acclaim for its “soulful” scents, each of which is centered upon a main ingredient like bergamot, rose, patchouli and orange blossom. Each perfume is named after its principal essence and the number of ingredients contained therein. The brand’s best selling Rose 31, for example, is based upon roses and contains 31 total ingredients.

MIN NEW YORK, 117 CROSBY STREET, NEW YORK, NY The perfect place to unleash your inner scent snob just might be MiN New York. The SoHo boutique stocks only the most exclusive fragrances from across the globe. Not sure where to begin? For a fee, you can book a “bespoke fragrance ﬂight” during which one of the store’s specialists will provide a one hour consultation to help you select the perfect fragrance.

Photo courtesy of Twisted Lily Once you’re a seasoned pro, consider applying to become a member at MiN you’ll gain access to their in - house line of limited edition scents.

ATELIER COLOGNE, 247 ELIZABETH STREET, NEW YORK, NY Atelier Cologne was recently picked up by Sephora, but a visit to their Elizabeth Street store will give you a real taste of the sensibilities behind this truly unique brand. Atelier was the ﬁrst scent house dedicated entirely to cologne, the citrus - based, pure perfume. The gender - neutral brand boasts countless scents and bonus - the purchase of a 200 ml cologne will earn you a complimentary travel spray and personalized leather case.

Will Fast Fashion Ever Lose Its Edge? by Dara Kenigsberg

Try and imagine only eating fast food. You would most likely feel sluggish, bloated and unsatisﬁed. You would start looking for an alternative, something healthier and of better quality. Now think about this in terms of clothes. Imagine if all you have been buying is fast fashion. Eventually, the same thing would happen. You would get sick of constantly having to throw things away for one reason or another, frustrated seeing countless other people wearing the same thing and you would seek out another alternative. Like with the food movement, where people became cognizant of where their food came from, what was really in it and if it was made locally, the same thing is happening in fashion right now. People want to know where our clothes are coming from, how they are being made and what they are being made from. We are increasingly willing to spend more money so that we can buy domestically, even if that means we have to start buying less clothing for higher quality. Elizabeth Cline, author of “Over Dressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion,” writes in her book that the apparel industry is one of the fastest dying industries in the United States in the past decade. Between 1997 and 2007, over 650,000 apparel jobs were lost in

this country and the production of clothing has almost entirely moved overseas to places like India, China and Bangladesh. Now, only 3% of what Americans wear is actually made in the U.S.; in 1985 it was 85% and in 1960 it was 100%.

companies need to manufacture in countries with low wages. The contractors and subcontractors in these countries then need to meet the requirements for low costs, oftentimes without any regard for the safety of workers.

Supporting domestic business isn’t the only reason that the fast fashion trend may be coming to an end. Fast fashion is wreaking havoc on our planet and it isn’t environmentally sustainable. Low prices require that companies manufacture in high volume and this is where the problem lies. According to triplepundit.com, “High volumes requires a greater use of raw materials, energy, water and other resources and contributes to climate change – the U.K. - based organization WRAP estimated that the processes from raw material to garment supply contribute around one - third of the waste footprint, three - quarters of the carbon impact and most of the water footprint of clothing.” Not to mention that in order to keep prices low, fast fashion

Additionally, we use places like the Salvation Army as trash centers when we are done wearing fast fashion clothing, whether because the items are no longer on trend or the washing machine has torn them to shreds. Oftentimes, the donations are so poorly made that they are not even usable. According to bridgetteraes.com, “In addition to the enormous amount of pollution fast fashion creates, our fiber consumption has gone from 10 million tons of fiber worldwide in 1950 to 82 million tons today with the water needed to produce that much fiber up to 2 trillion gallons per year.”

“ONLY 3% OF WHAT AMERICANS WEAR IS ACTUALLY MADE IN THE U.S.”

A lot of stores are also beginning to re - shore back to the United States.

According to USA Today, “Brooks Bros. bought a plant in Haverhill, Mass., ﬁve years ago and has moved 70% of its suit production there, mostly from offshore locations.” “Clothing will be among the additional $50 billion in U.S. products that Wal - Mart has pledged to buy over 10 years.” California based designer Karen Kane, who used to manufacture in China, moved more than 90% of manufacturing to the U.S. in 2009 because she began to see ﬂaws in the clothes being shipped from overseas. When her items in Dillards were next to a Made - in - the - USA sign, she saw 15% higher sales compared to similar clothing that didn’t have the promotion. Recent reports suggest that quality is more important to American consumers than quantity when it comes to clothing and accessories. In January, the American Apparel and Footwear Association stated that people are buying less and buying better. Nate Herman, vice president of international trade at AAFA, said, “Before the recession, in 2006 and 2007, one could argue that people were buying just because they could. People are more cautious with their money now. They want to spend it on something they know is going to last.”

W27

OCTOBER 2014

Metropolitan Opera Strike Over by Aaron Valentic

There is simply nothing quite like it - no other venue in any other city has had quite the clout that the Metropolitan Opera at Lincoln Center has had over the past century. From Enrico Caruso to Maria Callas, stars of opera, as well as the screen, have taken to the stage for one of the world’s most famous opera companies. Nestled in the center of Lincoln Center, the Metropolitan Opera Houses’ doors have been open since September 16, 1966, remaining a glimmering light amongst one of New York City’s cultural venues. Yet the lights at the Metropolitan Opera this past year looked as though they were going to be going out for good. News broke in February 2014 that a possible strike was about to occur from the Met’s General Manager Peter Gelb, who stated that members of the orchestra, chorus, stage crews as well as countless other employees, would be “locked - out” for not signing new contracts, which included reduced wages and beneﬁts. From the viewpoint of the broad American public, opera has never been an important aspect of high culture within a country that celebrates more sports and intellectual achievements than the arts.

Over the past few decades, subscriptions to the Metropolitan Opera have been dwindling, creating a deficit that was once funded by endless subscriptions. A debt of nearly $2.8 million has been acquired thanks to this diminishing audience. The Metropolitan Opera was in deficit and needed funds to help cover everything from wages to set designs to costumes, and that was only the beginning. The company, in 2013, paid nearly $215 million towards employee wages, from the budget of nearly $327 million. Employees at the Metropolitan Opera, which are some of the highest paid in the world, make anywhere from $100,000 - $200,000 with benefits covering nearly $100,000.

Over the course of the summer in New York City, onlookers of the arts watched carefully as managers and union workers dueled it out in the opera battle of the century. General Manager Gelb stated that he wanted union workers to receive a 17% reduction in wages, infuriating an already angry crowd, who were set to lose their contracts due to an expiration date of July 31. The expiration date for employees’ contracts was then set back multiple times for managers to deliberate over new contracts.

“THE OPERA BATTLE OF THE CENTURY.”

Of the 3,400 people employed at the Metropolitan Opera, nearly 2,400 of those employees belong to worker unions. Adding to the confusion of the strike saga is that each union has their own personal concerns and strategies for helping to ﬁgure out the deﬁcit.

In mid - August, news broke that the unions and the members of upper - management at the Met had in fact settled on a deal for the upcoming seasons. Metropolitan employees would receive a 3.5% reduction during the ﬁrst six months of the season, following an additional cut of 3.5%, totaling out to be a 7% cut in wages. Additionally, Matthew Loeb, president of the International Alliance of Theatrical Stage Employees, informed management that there would need to be mandatory

cost reductions, as well as an independent monitor for the opera to track budget performance for the following seasons. In a statement to “Crains New York” on the terms of the agreement being reached, Mr. Loeb stated, “We’ve always been willing to contribute to a solution that will keep the world’s best operas in front of the world’s greatest opera fans.” Even with the final settlement set to go into effect on September 22, also the start date for the new season, fingers are still being pointed towards Gelb for the dwindling subscriptions, as well as diminishing numbers in attendance at performances. Gelb has yet to respond to any accusations since the commencement of the strike. The drama intensifying at the Metropolitan Opera for most of the year is something of the works of a great opera itself. With extreme passion, spectacle and greed, the saga of the Met Strike has come to its final act: Just as the final curtain was about to descend, a last minute reprieve allowed for the show to continue on at Lincoln Center.

Carlos Aponte: An Undeniable Talent by Shyam Patel

to him. While some scoff at the idea of using masking tape as his medium, most viewers ﬁnd it distinctive. “It’s like a poor man’s version of a fashion illustration. Can you tell me of anyone out there doing fashion illustration with masking tape?” Aponte asks.

Photos courtesy of Shyam Patel Fashion Institute of Technology illustration professor Carlos Aponte, protégé of illustrator Antonio Lopez and former student of the late maestro Jack Potter, debuted his newest show, “Works on Tape,” on September 13 at Three Squares Studio in Chelsea. Aponte was born in New York City and raised in San Juan, Puerto Rico. He studied fashion design at Parsons, was formally trained by two esteemed ﬁgures of twentieth century illustration and possesses an undeniable talent for creating riveting fashion images. “A potent image is one that creates an emotion and produces a reaction,” Aponte says. Whether that emotion is negative or positive is absolutely irrelevant

In the early ‘90s while working on a collage, Aponte discovered the sculptural quality of tape. “It’s like ﬂat paint. I can do anything I want with it.” After much experimentation, a piece of Aponte’s work was published in “Visionaire Magazine.” Despite the striking visual appeal of his works, at ﬁrst, people seemed to be unfazed. At the time computer graphics were growing in popularity and Aponte’s style was placed on the backburner. “Within the past few years people have rediscovered my work. And now, thanks to Andy Potemkin who came to my studio and expressed interest in showing my work, I’m back and I’m excited,” said the reinvigorated artist. Aponte never uses a sketch as the base of his masking tape works, but he almost always prefers to work from a reference. “When you’re just working from the mind it seems as if something is missing, like the image isn’t grounded,” he points out. The pieces in “Works on Tape” feature the dramatic motion of Antonio Lopez’s works, but they’re executed in the graphic style of Jack Potter. Focusing on positive and negative space, Aponte’s goal is

“CAN YOU TELL ME OF ANYONE OUT THERE DOING FASHION ILLUSTRATION WITH MASKING TAPE?” to capture a very simple idea: the essence of an image. “Because fashion is often a very iconic image I want everything here to be very simple and graphic,” he said. Aponte is a great admirer of German Expressionism so it’s no surprise that the positive and negative space in his works resemble that of Erich Heckel and Karl Schmidt - Rottluff’s woodcuts. His favorite ﬁlms are silent, and in black and white, like Fritz Lang’s Metropolis. Aponte’s illustrations could easily be the artwork of the impoverished underground workers in Lang’s dystopian city of Metropolis. It’s an expensive, high skill level image presented through a budget medium. “I’m inspired by anything except fashion! I’m inspired by things outside of fashion and I put them in a fashion context. I don’t want to fall into the category of fashion illustrator because it’s art,” he declared. “I think in today’s crowded digital world all of the images come and go very quickly. We don’t really take the time to absorb them. I tell my

students that they have to stay with the image and ﬁnd out why it’s important and what its story is. Does the image move you? Does it have an emotion? For me it’s about digging deeper,” Aponte asserted. Above all, what makes Aponte’s work so attractive is the intent, the passion and the motivation behind it. It’s not just a fashion image: it’s art.

FEATURE When in Italy, Dress as the Italians by Kaylee Denmead

When seeking advice on how to pack for Italy, I asked everyone who might be able to clue me in on what I should and shouldn’t take. It’s quite the task to ﬁt nine months and four seasons of clothing (and shoes) into two suitcases. During packing stress, I even turned to Google to ask the all - knowing World Wide Web: what in the world do Italians wear? The results of this search insulted my American sensibilities. No shorts, less scandalous clothing, less skin showing, neutral colors, important brand names, better quality and, over and over, I saw the word classy. I judged the articles as biased but, having been here for about a month, I am now writing a similar article myself. I have realized that American style as a whole, though the Fashion Institute of Technology is a bit of an exception, just isn’t as classy as style in Italy. Sorry fellow fashion students, prepare to be slightly pained by what comes next! Florence is a bustling city and also one that goes on vacation for the month of August. That’s right; for an entire month many stores close down and the homeowners shufﬂe out of the city for vacation to escape the arid heat during this time. Upon arrival, I cursed Google for telling me not to pack shorts. As three weeks of my stay has come and gone, I have realized that the no shorts advice, while exaggerated, is pretty true. Florentines have been returning to the city and I have come to tell the difference between the locals and the Americans in just a glance. In Florence, the population is about 300,000 and the number of American students studying here at a given time has risen up to 5,000 in the past few years. Marie Claire wrote an article in 2010 stating, “Italian women tend to go for classic, designer - clad ensembles while New York, on the other hand, pushes the envelope.” That being said, as an

American student, it’s easy to pick out the many others based on a few key factors, style being the main one.

the elegance of Italian dressing. A stand - out American look of athletic apparel to run errands would make a Florentine woman cringe (even if the leggings are from Lululemon). Men here are in a completely different ballpark than guys at home (swoon). The well - dressed guys that you ﬁnd on Tumblr and in H&M ads actually

“WHEN HEADING TO ITALY, PREPARE NOT ONLY TO STEP UP YOUR FASHION GAME BUT TO ENTER AN ENTIRELY NEW ONE.” Photo courtesy of Kaylee Denmead The consistency of American dress is slightly sloppy and very relaxed. I believe that many people were told similar advice to mine: classier, more reﬁned. I truly think American college students (or maybe all Americans) have no idea what that means in comparison to Italians. Here in Florence you can see the lack of style in day - to - day life that Americans are too lazy to care about. While the main uniform for females is maxi skirts and crop tops, jeans and tees and the bare minimum of fabric when going out at night is regular and obvious, here it clashes with

exist; they all live in Italy. Trim trousers, sleek button ups, fitted vests and jackets and sexy loafers sum up a daily look for Italian men. You won’t find a guy in gym shorts or grungy hipster apparel here. Classy seeps through the pores of Italians every single day. My landlady Maria kindly came by after my first week to check on me and entered my apartment in small wedge heels, fitted trousers, a silk blouse, cropped jacket, hair done and makeup. I silently questioned who was the fashion student. While my International Buying and Marketing professor Fabianna Vannucchi will tell you the new generations are

becoming trendier, the older generations frown upon this fact. When asking Vannucchi’s opinion she responded with, “I would say that we Italians have more style, more taste, more sense of beauty and more creativity.” Harsh, isn’t it? She went on to describe Americans as “practical” which “reflects in their fashion.” As much as I’d love to say this was the only opinion that summed us up as fashion innate, there sadly is more. Professor Inger Cristoffersen has 12 years of experience teaching American students in Italy. She said, “I find the Italian students more focused on quality and classic styles and they have more individual tastes than the American students. The American students are more brand focused, but often avoid to stand out too much.” It seems that the American students are identical molds of what’s “in” at a specific time in just about every high school and college except our own (just some quick FIT pride). High - waisted denim shorts and crop tops are the newest fast fashion trend and for many females, they don’t want to set themselves apart. For men, what’s wrong with dark denim and a button up to go out at night and relaxed gym shorts during the day? Easy and inexpensive, it’s clear that most Americans don’t believe in quality over quantity, which is a rule Italians live by. While my Google search feels like it happened years ago, just a month has passed and I have my own sense of Italian fashion advice. When heading to Italy, prepare not only to step up your fashion game but to enter an entirely new one. It’s a game that’s new to me, but after relaxing in the New York version I have come to love, it’s refreshing to play on someone else’s turf.

FIND ELIGIBILITY AND APPLICATION REQUIREMENTS HERE: WWW.FITNYC.EDU/STUDYABROAD

W27

OCTOBER 2014

Nicole Miller Pays Homage to Brazil by Nikki Lakin

white, mirrored the famed Copacabana sidewalks. “Flying Down to Rio,” the name of the collection, as well as the film that partially influenced Miller’s design aesthetic, kicked off with a classic yet eye - catching dress. Classic because it was form - fitting and conservative, even with a cutout in the middle, but eye - catching because of its dark yet bold tropical print and ruffles. It accurately represented Brazilian art and fashion right from the get - go.

Pastel. Gingham. Geometric. Athletic. What do all of these words have in common? Well yes, they’re words, but there’s a reason why they’re all clumped together. They’re words that describe trends. This combination of trends dominated the runways of Lincoln Center and other locations during this fall’s New York Fashion Week, from Monique Lhuillier’s bouncy, candy - colored evening gowns to Joseph Altuzarra’s gingham jumpers. With all the fun frocks that the world was introduced to this season, shoppers and fashion enthusiasts can guarantee that they have a colorful season to look forward to. But these trends didn’t make as loud and bold of a statement as other patterns and plays that were revealed on the runway. To ring in the Spring ahead, several designers debuted collections for the ﬁrst half of 2015 with bright, lavish prints and graphics representing the cultures of other countries. One of the ﬁrst collections that did so was from designer Nicole Miller. After multiple memorable visits to the popular South American spot of Rio de Janeiro, Miller insisted on bringing her recollections to life through her designs. And for her Spring/Summer 2015 collection, she did exactly that – of course, in classic Nicole Miller fashion. Those who attended Miller’s show at Lincoln Center this season were instantly caught in a warp, traveling from the buzz of the Fashion Week tents to a beachy, breezy escape. The backdrop for the show was a photographed mural of a clear blue sky and a line of palm trees; the runway, covered in waves of black and

With such a great crowd reaction from the first frock, the looks that followed nonetheless continued to impress. The audience was continuously greeted by models donning form - fitting dresses with ruffles and mesh; mixed print ensembles of blocked stripes and subtle jungle patterns; and solid skirts matched with patterned tops that remind you of the combination of jeweled colors you’d see if you looked into a kaleidoscope. Several other pieces planted unforgettable snapshots in our memories; one being a faded and scratched black - and - white Copacabana - esque sidewalk print on a trench coat. Another was a playfully styled combination of a black asymmetrical skirt with ruffles and a white mesh cropped tank top with the bust covered in a pattern of embroidered flowers.

when it came to adopting international influence. Take Maison Kitsuné. It was the first time the brand presented during New York Fashion Week and spearheaders Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki decided they, too, wanted to transport the audience to another country and took them on a trip to Paris. Yet, the excursion included too much involvement. Everywhere you looked, a model was sporting a leather baseball jacket or peter pan collar dress with black penny loafers or tennis shoes, sitting on a Parisian wooden bench or standing in front of a mural reminiscent of Versailles. The collection may have been marked “Effortless French,” but the rookie Fashion Week presentation reflected anything but that. For any designer or label preparing to take the culture challenge next Fashion Week, recognize that both the clothes and the presentation need to tastefully represent the influence. Carry out the traditions while gracefully waving in points of inspiration. An inundation of the culture can come across as tacky and offensive – which no one wants to be remembered for.

Although the country and culture of Brazilian life was a driving force behind Miller’s new installment, once the models walked through all the outfits of the collection, there were several evident attributes that set this collection apart from other culturally influenced fashions. From season to season, Miller makes her mark and stands out by highlighting her figure - flattering frocks, dramatic cutouts and youthful silhouettes. And even with Brazil as the grand theme, Miller kept her collection tasteful and appropriate. Much of “Flying Down to Rio” was considerably urban and modern, with a few pinches of quirky prints and details carefully mixed in to make the perfect Miller - meets - Rio combination. With just the suitable amount of Brazilian excitement, Miller successfully avoided bumping into clichés in this collection. She kept true to her city - chic frames while only skimming the surface of the cultural influence and highlighting key prints where necessary, not conforming to cultural appropriation or turning her entire collection into a Brazilian beachfront shop. Other brands, however, weren’t so careful

Photos courtsey of nowfashion.com

FEATURE

FIT

The Indian Aesthetic by Hermina Sobhraj

www.whappeningindia.com “Four amazing minds. Four amazing weeks. One body of work.” reads the tagline of Whappening India - a website created in part by Fashion Institute of Technology students Zia Sen, Trupal Pandya and Helen Stimson. The website details their journey on the western coast of India through a collection of images that seamlessly link Indian fashion, culture and travel. Sen, Pandya and Stimson teach us that even with limited time and resources, combining creative minds can result in something magical. Hermina Sobhraj: How did you get the idea to do this? Trupal Pandya: We didn’t want to waste the summer. We might as well make something out of it. Initially it was just Zia and I, and then, Helen. It was really just spoken in passing, but then it really happened. Zia Sen: Trupal’s a photography major at FIT and I’m in Fashion Merchandising. We’ve styled a lot together and we’re both from India. We’ve both spoken about the possibility of going back home and doing photo shoots together. It was never really a concrete thing however. We were both good friends with Helen and we had just been talking about how we needed someone to model for us. Within seconds, Helen was like ‘I’ll model for you. I’ll deﬁnitely come.’ It was kind of just said in passing but in a week she was really serious about it. After Spring Break, she booked her tickets and got her visa. HS: What do you plan to accomplish with this? ZS: Initially, it was just to make use of our summer; to build portfolios, get experience…but then it was like – this is a concept that no one has really explored. We were doing as much as we could: writing, video, photography, blogging…. Just thinking about creating a whole website for free just because you know people is so beautiful and it’s an option that more people need to explore. We deﬁnitely explored the chance of doing it again and having it almost pay for itself. Lots of people contacted us through the page and asked to join us. We thought that for the next one, we could actually sift through applications from people and ask them to pay a fee, and we’ll manage their trip for them internally. TP: We wanted to collaborate with different artists around school and make something out of it. If you just look around school, it’s less expensive. We were able to

make something beautiful. HS: Do you think you will keep this as a website? Have you thought about transforming it into a publication? TP: I think for now, a website. We feel like this hasn’t reached it’s potential yet. Also, all the photos you see were edited on the same day they were photographed. It was having a website platform that allowed us to do this. ZS: The whole point of reaching out to W27 or WFIT is to get this to be recognized. It needs to be a thing that’s known.

“THIS IS A CONCEPT THAT NO ONE HAS REALLY EXPLORED.” However we haven’t thought of it as a publication because the whole point was to have everything in real time. We’d wake up at 3 am, go and shoot for sunrise and then take a break. Helen and Akanksha [also heavily involved in the project] were really tired because they were modeling. When we got back, we’d sift through photos and edit. HS: When you were in India, was it all spontaneous or planned out?

from it but we drove all the way back just to take pictures in it [picture in top right]. HS: When I showed this to a friend, a Fashion Design major, she was really inspired. She wanted to know, where did you guys get the clothes for the photo shoots? TP: We contacted designers in India, some of whom were Malini Ramani and Vineet Bahl. We wrote to them and they were happy to do it. We also sourced some of the clothing that was made locally. ZS: On the Artist’s Page of the website you’ll ﬁnd more information. We lived with this woman who would empower women to make their own clothes, sell them to the local industries and expose them to international waters. We used some of their necklaces and strung them together to create an outﬁt on Akanksha [picture in bottom middle]. HS: Clearly your pictures can move people. Was it more about the aesthetic for you or did you want to show people India’s culture? TP: We were interested in showcasing the culture, but the inspiration really came from creating a beautiful aesthetic. The whole point was to zone out and do your thing. We wanted to get away from politics, corruption, money and stuff. ZS: It really was more about the aesthetic. I had more of a minimalistic approach whereas Trupal liked a lot of colors. It was really nice because everyone liked something different. In terms of caring about the aesthetic, for example, in New York, there’s a lot going on in terms of the economy, business and fashion. But if you took me to

ZS: Well, we did about four days per city. 25 days in total. We didn’t focus too much on how many photographs we would take. I made these mood boards in New York based on my own Photo courtesy of www.whappeningindia.com experiences and made a different one for each Bushwick and we saw graffiti, we’d be location. A lot of this was planned out ahead inspired by that area, that place. It was – the looks, the routes, the designers. definitely more about how the location inspired us rather than the specific meanTP: There was some spontaneity to it. We ing behind it. would take video of almost literally anything we saw. We would actually detour if HS: Did you have to deal with a lot of Zia was like ‘let’s do that location.’ There extreme conditions? was a broken house due to an earthquake that Zia spotted. We were about a mile out ZS: We lost a bunch of stuff during the

monsoons. Helen got sick which was anticipated – your stomach has to get used to India. Our hotel in the desert was really, really hot. It was four of us in a room and it was very hard to do hair and makeup. We’d do touch - ups in the car and India isn’t exactly the best place for a woman to change in the road. We’d have to carry a sheet everywhere so the models could change. HS: What opportunities have come to you both because of this? ZS: Trupal is helping with lifestyle shoots. Me and Trupal like to do a lot of our work together, whether it be graphic design, photography or other freelance work. TP: Zia and I got a designing job together. I’ve been taking freelance jobs from other clients who want me to make their website. We might approach ELLE in India. None of us even had video experience, but we had to concentrate on making beautiful footage. Let alone website experience. We did all of it from scratch. We’re really excited about this and we’re in talks with other publications as well. Zia Sen is an FMM major in her Senior year. Trupal Pandya is a Photography major in his Junior year. Helen Stimson is an Entrepreneur major in her Junior year. A timeline of the project documenting each of their days in greater detail can be found on the website. Their contact information, along with a full gallery of pictures, documentaries and each of the collaborator’s portfolios, can all be accessed on the website as well. Look out for their next project, which they hope to shoot in Greece.

W27

OCTOBER 2014

JAPANESE DESIGN CULTURE: SIMPLIFYING THE COMPLEX by Kris Oca

Aspects and parts of cultures (or sub culture, in this case) are normally hard to condense in “A Dummy’s Guide to…” approach. This is even more so the case when you’re an outsider. What a foreigner sees is not necessarily what a native sees; a lot gets lost in translation. The great thing about art and design is that, despite language and cultural barriers, there’s a universal understanding on what’s visually appealing - even if our approaches and the conclusion we reach are different.

works. The interest eventually reached and inspired artists such as Henri de Toulouse Lautrec, Vincent van Gogh and Les Nabis. As one would expect, Japanese Design has changed signiﬁcantly since then. But the basic design principles on which it was founded have stayed the same. Despite advances in technology and new needs to satisfy, Japan has mostly stayed true to its roots. The concept of modern design in Japan is a harmonious contrast to its environment. In comparison to California, Japan has an area around 11,000 square miles less but a population of roughly 100 million more - an almost enigmatic ratio. Keeping those numbers in mind, it’s easy to imagine a fairly crowded country (this especially applies to the cities). This plays into an image of crowdedness and clutter, which is the complete opposite of Japan’s design aesthetic - clean and unassuming. According to John Maeda, author of “The Laws of Simplicity” and president of the Rhode Island School of Design, “… Japanese culture is particularly attuned to the appreciation of beauty because it springs from an island nation with limited natural resources. Japan has always had to get by with less wood, metal, fuel and so on, so its culture has evolved around how to make less into more.”

FIT Student Artwork by Ruka Sato Japanese design has always looked to minimize those barriers. Interest in Japanese design and art started on a mass scale during the 1870s, sometime after the Treaty of Kanagawa was implemented in 1854, mending the relations between the United States and Japan, thus ending 216 years of isolation and allowing foreign commerce for the latter. In this time period, the major art movement in Japan was ukiyo - e or “art of the ﬂoating world (common people and everyday subjects).” Originally, ukiyo - e were produced on an individual scale. They were made with sumi (black ink) and took more time. Eventually, the work became mass produced, but still only with black ink (color would come into play much later). The artist would paint the image, carve it onto wood and then put paint onto the wood, using it as a press. This innovation transformed ukiyo - e into a form of woodblock press prints, a more commercialized approach. This art style was heavily inﬂuential on Impressionism and Post - Impressionism, encouraging the idea that everyday subjects and ordinary things could become great works of art. Europe got a hold of ukiyo - e decorated wrapping paper as trade became common between Japan and the outside world. This sparked the Japonism movement, a term coined by Philippe Burty, a French journalist and art - critic, to describe the fascination and curiosity of the West with the East. French art connoisseurs were suddenly motivated to purchase more Japanese

One look is all it takes to understand just how valid that statement is, to understand how important simplicity is in their design and where that importance comes from. When you take away the misjudged hyper - technologic and candy pop culture and “Mt. Fuji and Cherry Trees” images of Japan, you reveal the humble and traditional (yet innovative) principles that are visible in Japanese design; for example, something as simple as a book that turns into a stool or a poster promoting an architect’s show with the text made to look like a house. The Art Directors Club (ADC) states that “Contrary to Western styles of expression, Japanese communication is more emotional than rational. Such emotion is profoundly linked to art.” Art is definitively a form of expression, but what is expressed and how is ever - changing. One method of communication in Japan that involves design is poster art. Posters are a really big part of Japanese culture and not necessarily heavily sales oriented. When you go to see a movie, Japanese theaters will have complimentary mini posters for films being featured. They are often printed on a B5 (7” by 11”) paper and custom designed for Japanese audiences. These posters are called chirashi and are considered treasured collectibles in the film memorabilia collection, some being as cheap as three dollars or as expensive as $50 (usually for older films). Posters are good for anything and everything: advocating tobacco etiquette, promoting an indie band’s show in some hidden location or to advertise a new exhibition at Tokyo Tower Aquarium.

Japanese design doesn’t just shine through posters. Just as design reaches a variety of mediums, Japanese aesthetic principles go with it. Products are made with function and simplicity in mind, get rid of the clutter and keep what is needed, and they are made to have a direct connection to whatever it is they are created for. An example would be a single flower vase created by Ayumi Sakamoto and Tomomi Uchiyama for H - Concept. They created the product with the phases of a flower’s life span in mind. How does a flower look when it’s blooming? When it’s fully bloomed? When it’s wilting? All of those questions became the conception of “Flowerman,” an unadorned vase with a human - like shape that takes the flower as its head, giving it a range of emotions as the flower goes through its cycle. The quirkiness and humor seen in “Flowerman” is a growing trend in Japan - there are lettuce umbrellas and a photobook of a radish that looks like a man running. One designer who wholly accepted humor into his designs was Shigeo Fukada, “the Houdini of graphic design,” His work is most well - known for making use of optical illusions and making the viewer think about what they’re seeing rather than just shallowly glancing at something. A famous piece of his is “Victory 1945” which portrays a satirical view on the pointlessness of war: a bullet being shot out of a barrel…but facing the very barrel it was shot out of. The poster itself implements the principle that less is more. There is more negative space in the composition; the only positive pieces being the bullet, the barrel and the title, but it’s more than enough to leave an impact and it’s all you need to understand what’s going on. Not all Japanese designers buried themselves in these aesthetics, however - at least not 100%. Tadanori Yokoo is proof of this, as he embraced a Dada - esque (anti - art) approach to his posters, paintings and illustrations. Rather than focusing on the simplicity of everything, he did the opposite, opting for the very clutter that most Japanese designers were and are avoiding. Yokoo was inspired by his generation, a generation that was so massively involved with American civilization and pop culture in the 60s up to the 80s, but he did keep to his roots by using Japanese undertones such as natural elements and calligraphy. Dadaism - inspired Yokoo isn’t the only designer to be influenced by a western movement. Ikko Tanaka accepted the philosophies of the Bauhaus movement from Germany into his work. He incorporated the use of planes and shapes, predominantly the circle, square and triangle into his designs, while mixing it with Japanese subjects such as a geisha. So just what is it that makes the rest of the world fascinated with Japanese design? The answer is different for everyone. Some like it because it’s so different from what we normally see nowadays. A simple and fresh design can speak ten times louder than cluttered and complicated ones - there’s not always a need for glitz

“THE CRAFTSMAN’S SPIRIT...IMBUES PEOPLE WITH A SENSE OF BEAUTY.” and glam to get a point across. Others like the approach because of its undeniable otherness that our culture is unaccustomed to. And, like the majority, you just can’t deny that what looks good, looks good. “So does this mean everything that comes out of Japan looks good? Is everyone in Japan just really talented at making beautiful things?” are questions that might come to mind, and are answered best by Kenya Hara, creative director of MUJI and professor at the Musashino Art University. He says that “The craftsman’s spirit…imbues people with a sense of beauty.” The craftsman’s spirit or shokunin kishitsu is a general Japanese term for the motivation a person has to do their job with utmost dedication and sincerity, and it doesn’t apply to just literal craftsmen. This term applies to a variety of jobs ranging from sanitation to construction to fashion design. There is pride in what they do because they work hard, and that gives them a sense of

FIT Student Artwork by Mari Saito beauty. It gives them that understanding of how much labor needs to be put in to reach that state, and that understanding translates to designs. Hara also states that “beauty beyond fanciness is an aesthetic principle that is sleeping at the bottom of Japanese perception.” The ability to create visually engaging work is the result of a society and culture that took it’s time to understand exactly what it means to be beautiful and to grasp it with no intention of letting go. All the values that are so heavily ingrained into the spirit of Japanese design are, without a doubt, what make it so endearing and fascinating. The effort that looks effortless is an aesthetic that transcends the lingual and cultural barriers and inspires us all.

FEATURE

FIT

CALEIGH GIANGREGORIO MEETS NYC STREET CULTURE. THREE MODELS. SEPARATED BY ETHNICITY. CONNECTED BY FASHION.

DESIGNER: CALEIGH GIANGREGORIO MAKE UP ARTIST: MICHELE HERNANDEZ PHOTOGRAPHY: VICKY PETT MODELS: DARINA MAY MARION ŠPEHAR LAURA STILLWAGON HAIR STYLIST: MARIO SISNEROS

W27

INTERCONNECTED BY GIANGREGORIO’S DESIGNS

AND OUR CITY’S STREET STYLE.

OCTOBER 2014

FEATURE

FIT

Fraud Exposed: ‘Zombies’ Haunt Social Media Venues by Allison Moran

Weibo, China’s social media giant launched by SINA Corporation, is a microblogging website comparable to a hybrid of Twitter and Facebook. A user creates an account, builds a page and posts on the account in order to accumulate fans (or “zombies” in Weibo’s case). Weibo has accounts across the world run by ordinary people, businesses, government agencies and embassies alike. As with any social media platform, the more followers a page has, the more likely it is to have a large influence throughout the Web and on the public in general. Judging the size of a following is near impossible on Weibo however, with more and more “fans” being exposed as “zombies,” or false accounts. Zombies get their name as they represent, quite blatantly, fake, non - living people that attempt to mimic the behavior of real people on social media. The Canadian Embassy in Beijing has a Weibo page with over one million fans. As reported by The Globe and Mail, less than fifteen percent of these fans were actually real accounts. These conclusions were drawn after assessing the activity of the accounts and their origins. Just under two years ago, Yale University gained over 100,000 Chinese “fans” in under four months - a more rapid increase than any other higher education institution. The majority of these accounts that became fans of Yale were located primarily in Chinese farmland, as opposed to the followers of other institutions of higher education that are usually located in urban areas such as Beijing, Hong Kong and Shanghai. Raising red flags, Yale claimed that they did not purchase any of these “zombie” followers. Sina, majority owner of Weibo, also stated that they did not place the false followers

“EVER WONDER HOW A YOUTUBE VIDEO OF A CAT BLINKING HAS MILLIONS OF VIEWS?” there, insisting that this was the doing of an outside company. While there may be denial, typically accounts are bought and sold in China to increase the following of a social media page - and this process is not isolated to Weibo. Empty or nearly inactive Twitter accounts are being created and distributed out of China, as are Facebook accounts, Youtube views and Instagram accounts and likes. If the Chinese government agrees with a certain page or organization, they tend to have more followers and likes than pages which go against the government’s ideas and beliefs, as is the case with the Canadian Embassy. Outside of the government, entire companies are dedicated to the creation and distribution of these zombies. Often times, they will “like” pages, such as Yale, to seem more legitimate, which agrees with Yale’s and Sina’s claims that they were not involved in the purchase of the zombie fans. These purchased accounts can usually be identiﬁed by their usernames, often times an American ﬁrst and last name, followed by a series of numbers or simply a collection of Chinese symbols. Their activity is usually lower compared to most active social media users in reference to the number of posts and “likes” that each account has associated with it.

“YALE UNIVERSITY GAINED OVER 100,000 CHINESE ‘FANS’ IN UNDER FOUR MONTHS”

There is rising concern over whether or not this practice of purchasing followers will reach mainstream American society, but the reality is that it already has. Next time you log on to Twitter, Facebook or

Instagram, keep your eyes peeled. Ever wonder how a Youtube video of a cat blinking has millions of views? Views can be purchased just like followers and likes to place content on the “What to Watch” page. Check those random Twitter accounts that follow you; chances are they have never composed a single tweet. Compare the accounts to one another; do their usernames resemble each other? Do the personal bios and descriptions follow the same format? Are they asking for a follow back with a different account? These are all signs of “zombie” accounts trying to deceitfully increase the following of another social media account or page. When asked for their opinions, Fashion Institute of Technology students spoke on this Chinese social media phenomenon and its encroachment into American social media culture. Brandon Saloy claimed that “it’s a sad reﬂection of how desperate our generation is to appear to be something we’re not online.” Similarly, Maria Beneventano stated that she doesn’t “get why someone cares that much about followers or likes.” Although students are not expected to have the same amount of followers that much larger businesses attain, it still is something that concerns this generation on a daily basis. Whether students stress over how many Instagram likes a photo gets, how many views a Youtube video receives or how many followers they have on Twitter, the concept of purchasing likes, views and followers may just become the next big thing, if it hasn’t already. While it may be “a sad reﬂection,” as Saloy puts it, the actions of these large conglomerates, political agencies and ivy league institutions echo an even greater problem. Social media’s impact on the world’s actions is growing at an increasingly scary rate - it’s the one with the most followers.

HAUTE CULTURE 4 WORTH WATCHING: FALL TV PREMIERES by Dana Heyward

Gotham (Mondays at 10PM, FOX) “Gotham” opens with the story of the pre - masked vigilante Batman whose parents, as the DC Comics story goes, are murdered. From the ﬁrst episode it is clear that the series focuses less on the young Bruce Wayne and more on detective Jim Gordon (played by Ben McKenzie) in his earliest days on the job. The series will also include some of the comics’ other most popular villains, including The Penguin, Catwoman and Poison Ivy - many of which are villains that fans love to hate. To categorize “Gotham” is difﬁcult, being that it is a little bit of everything. It has aspects of a typical crime show but is set against a backdrop of the classic comic, making the show into something more. It’s a juxtaposition between a dark crime drama and a superhero show, making a surprising yet entertaining clash.

Matt McGorry from “Orange Is The New Black.” With similarities to “Grey’s Anatomy” and “Scandal,” the show is set very much so as a legal thriller; however the drama and situations of the series appear much more genuine and realistic in comparison. The show ﬂirts with crossing the “over - the - top” line at moments but ends up having just enough intensity without fumbling into confusion, despite how fast the show moves. It’s clear that as the show progresses it will only get better. Black - ish (Wednesdays at 9:30PM, ABC) While “Modern Family” has dominated the family comedy domain for the past ﬁve years, actors and producers Anthony Anderson and Laurence Fishburne have

Red Band Society (Wednesdays at 9PM, FOX)

How to Get Away With Murder (Thursdays 10PM, ABC) The third hour of the Thursday night block of Shonda Rhimes’ created and produced shows have fans and the network dubbing #TGIT, known as Thank God It’s Thursday, a play on the classic TGIF acronym. Faithful fans of “Scandal” and “Grey’s Anatomy” are likely to flock to the latest Shonda Rhimes project, “How To Get Away With Murder.” The show takes us to a law class at the fictional Middleton University in Philadelphia, taught by quick - mouthed Annalise Keating, played by Viola Davis. The first episode paints a picture that Davis is equally worshipped and feared by her students, but it does not stop them from doing just about anything to impress her. Davis effortlessly carries herself in the pilot episode, whether it’s with a quick jab, witty monologue or a piercing scowl. The diverse supporting cast is a mix of Hollywood newcomers and a few familiar faces including Alfred Enoch most commonly know from the Harry Potter film series and

Anderson), his wife Rainbow (played by Tracee Ellis Ross), their four children and Andre’s father (played by Laurence Fishburne). The pilot cleverly makes unapologetic comments on race and cultural identity from Andre’s caucasian assistant who he calls an “honorary brother,” to his eldest son opting to play ﬁeld hockey instead of basketball and admitting to his father that he wants a bar mitzvah like his friends. The show ﬂawlessly combines humor while inspiring discussion on commonplace subjects that don’t often get told on family sitcoms. The show not only has a message and the ability to take a swing at a number of current issues involving race and culture, but its entertainment value is also undeniably strong.

Photo courtesy of abc.com.

decided to introduce a new family to the Wednesday primetime lineup known as The Johnsons. When describing the concept of “Black - ish,” creator Kenya Barris explains, “There’s been the diffusion of black culture to everyone else and there’s also been a diffusion of black culture from black culture.” The series focuses on the afﬂuent African American Johnson family headed by Andre Johnson (played by Anthony

Photo courtesy of theverge.com.

Fans of “Glee” and “Parenthood” will probably have a soft spot for the teen comedy - drama “Red Band Society.” The show is set in a pediatric ward run by the tough - love Nurse Jackson (played by Octavia Spencer) and involves several other unique patients. The concept of the show might make you a bit wary (who really wants to watch a show about sick kids, right?), but the ﬁrst unexpected twist might change your mind: the narrator of “Red Band Society” is a young boy named Charlie, who is actually in a coma. “Everyone knows how hard it is to make friends. Imagine making friends in a coma!”Charlie exclaims in the opening scene. But the show makes a few key points in straying away from being a typical dramedy. There are small but earnest laughs mixed with poignant scenes as the teens of the hospital go through life and their respective illnesses. And despite the show having a rough start with the ratings and receiving criticisms for it’s unrealistic and storybook fantasy feel, it still holds promise of growing into one of the most beloved shows of the fall and winter television season.

Photo courtesy of givememyremote.com.

HAUTE CULTURE

FIT

GALLERY REVIEW:

THE LIVING GALLERY by Kim Proschka

ARRINGTON DE DIONYSO AND DEAN CERCONE PRESENT “LIVE DRAWING PERFORMANCE” Witnessing an artist create a masterpiece from its initial idea to the ﬁnal brush stroke is not something one experiences everyday. It’s a process that seems to only happen behind the closed doors of a hidden atelier where the artist spends hours upon hours in solitude amongst

is a world made up entirely of their own provoking thoughts about the artwork’s inspiration, execution and meaning. But what if one received the chance to step into that atelier and watch the artist create his or her artwork following every brush stroke right as it hits the blank canvas?

Photo courtesy of the - living - gallery.

a chaotic myriad of paints, brushes and sketches. To the audience, the ﬁnished artwork exudes an air of mystery, maybe even magic. What enfolds their minds

Would it kill the magic? On September 23, 2014, the Living Gallery set out to explore just that: The

Bushwick - based gallery held an exclusive live drawing performance featuring artist and musician Arrington de Dionyso, whose graphic designs have recently been featured in Saint Laurent’s Spring/ Summer 2015 Men’s collection, as well as local artist Dean Cercone and bassist Gene Janas. The experience was even stranger than I thought it would be (in the best possible way.) As I stepped foot into the elongated room, I first felt an overwhelming sense of having invaded the artists’ personal space. Dionyso was kneeling on the floor in front of his canvas, on which I could already make out some of his signature motifs of angels and flowers, chanting along to pre recorded Indonesian ritual music. On the opposite wall, Dean Cercone created his artwork directly on the wall adding with clumsy but destined strokes, a variety of symbols and shapes to spray - painted canvasses. Gene Janas accompanied the two with improvised bass music that experimented with different techniques and sounds to evoke a range of emotions between intense agony and infectious

ecstasy. Even though the event must have been uneventful - and frankly quite strange - looking – to passers - by, there was something inexplicably captivating about watching three men swinging their brushes and strumming their strings. All of them were completely engulfed in their work, noticing neither the amused onlookers peeking into the gallery some entering hesitantly like me but most of them hurrying away quickly - nor the small audience’s fixated glances trying to interpret their every move in complete silence. Picking up on the smallest changes in the artists’ mimics, however, felt like putting together a puzzle piece by piece. It was foolish to think that watching an artist create their work would kill the magic when it actually amplified the impact of seeing the finished artwork that we as an audience were now ultimately a part of. Experiencing all this creativity united us with the artist in a very special way - even if just for a short amount of time - and that was truly magical.

RESTAURANT REVIEW:

GIANO by Sarah Fielding

A series of pictures showcasing pornographic activity is not something customers would typically imagine sitting under while munching away on their entrée. However this is exactly what you’ll find if you choose to eat at East Village inhabitant, Giano. Tucked away on 7th Street, we found the hidden treasure of Giano - divided into three sub - sections, all equally beautiful. From front to rear, the decor (apart from the risque pictures) is modern with wooden tables and an endless supply of lit candles against exposed brick; all which finally reaches an outdoor patio area. While there are many options to choose from, I decided on a standard spaghetti with gravy. The entire main course, including the spaghetti, was homemade and fresh, which is obvious with every sweet and unique taste that comes in each bite. After completing our meals, dessert was definitely in order. Although I am generally not into sweets, I was willing to make an exception. I ordered the strawberry sorbet and with only one bite in, thought I had entered food heaven. Upon further inspection of the restaurant, while finishing my dessert, I came across

what seemed like an innocent picture of a girl. It was in fact microsized pictures of pornography - a rather shocking art form to have in the restaurant but nonetheless able to command one’s attention.

“GIANO WAS EQUIVALENT TO FOOD PORN - FRESH AND TASTEFUL AMONGST A COZY AND SEDUCTIVE ATMOSPHERE.” Overall, Giano left me rather impressed with the overall experience. The food was spectacular and not overpriced while the service was great and extremely helpful. Giano was equivalent to food porn - fresh and tasteful amongst a cozy and seductive atmosphere.

Photo courtesy of opentable.com.

Photo courtesy of laurenlovestoeatcom.

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OCTOBER 2014

CONCERT REVIEW:

FASHION ROCKS by Molly Clarke

Photo courtesy of zimbio.com.

When different spectrums of the arts come together, it’s a beautiful blend; fashion and music merged on September 9 at Brooklyn’s Barclays Center. The concert brought together some of the biggest names in music, while

showcasing runway looks that could be purchased during the live broadcast from Macy’s.com. The star - studded music lineup included Jennifer Lopez, Nicki Minaj, Pitbull, Afrojack, Enrique Iglesias and Nico and Vinz, just to name a few.

was impressed by).

The show also highlighted New York designers whose collections have been inspired by music. Designers such as Tommy Hilﬁger, John Varvatos and Steven Madden all spoke about how music and fashion continuously inﬂuence each other.

As the ofﬁcial retail partner for the event, Macy’s used the music app Shazam to give viewers a different way of watching the program by giving them special content of the show. Additionally, viewers could follow Macy’s social media platforms to get a front row look of the show, as well as behind - the - scenes pictures and videos. Fashion Rocks was also incorporated into the company’s fall campaigns, featuring fall’s hottest fashion tips and tricks, as well as the must - have looks for the season.

The concert was broadcast live on CBS with host Ryan Seacrest and attendees of the concert were treated to some risque performances. Lopez performed her new single “Booty,” accompanied by moves showing off her insured derriere. Later in the broadcast, Nicki Minaj attempted to upstage Lopez’s derriere with even more risque dance moves (none of which Lopez

Justin Bieber also made a guest appearance, but he was completely booed by the entire crowd when he proceeded to strip down to his Calvin Klein boxers.

Photo courtesy of nydailynews.com.

complement each other in an extraordinary fashion.

Fashion Rocks brought together the best of the best in both the fashion and music industries, combining two art forms that

FILM REVIEW:

THIS IS WHERE I LEAVE YOU by Loren Adiutori

Some people just can’t seem to catch a break in life. When we meet Judd Altman in “This Is Where I Leave You,” played by Jason Bateman, his life is one hard blow after another. In the same day, he ﬁnds his wife is in a compromising position with his boss, while soon after he receives news that his father has died. Returning to his childhood home, he is reunited with his three siblings and his mother, and the insults and low - blows just keep coming his way.

that perhaps the jokes and witty remarks were too close to real life, and therefore went unnoticed. Laugh riot - no, but it remained cleverly humorous. The best aspect of this movie (besides

Photo courtesy of wegotthiscovered.com

“This Is Where I Leave You,” adapted from the novel of the same title, is an indie “dram - edy” (drama and comedy in one) in which the premise surrounds the deceased patriarch, whose wish is for his family to participate in a Jewish mourning tradition known as “sitting shiva.” For the Altmans, this means receiving visitors in their home for seven days while being forced to sit in tiny chairs next to people they’ve hardly communicated with (and don’t particularly like.) This tests the entire household, as well as everyone’s patience. With the newly found proximity, we discover that it is not only Judd whose life is in need of repair.

In the ﬁlm, directed by Shawn Levy (of “Date Night” and “The Internship”) we are privy to expect good performances from the cast. Tina Fey takes a slightly more dramatic but mildly impressive turn as the heartbroken yet utterly winning sister Wendy. Her scenes opposite Timothy Olyphant, though brief, show a vulnerability in Fey that takes her away from “that funny lady” she’s known to be. Others, from Adam Driver to Jane Fonda, are able to hold their own and create memorable characters for the audience as well. The enjoyment of the ﬁlm was not dependent on one performance or another but

in how the story was told by the actors as an ensemble. You could sense the camaraderie and chemistry the cast shared; one really felt they were related. From time to time, I was in fact getting involved with the characters, thinking I too could have been their sister. But despite the darker subject matter and familial dysfunction, let’s not forget that this movie is supposed to be a comedy. Unfortunately, only one person in my theater was laughing audibly (albeit obnoxiously) at any attempt at humor made. This is not the fault of anyone in particular, like the screenwriter, except to say

“SOME PEOPLE JUST CAN’T SEEM TO CATCH A BREAK IN LIFE.” the gratuitous, but oh - so - necessary butt shot of Dax Shepard in the opening scene) was that every horrible thing that happened to Judd and the Altmans was underscored brilliantly by that clever humor. Like Wendy’s almost - potty trained toddler taking his plastic toilet to the back porch, pulling down his pants and proudly sharing a “private moment.” And I think that is the point of “This Is Where I Leave You,” to say, “Life: it happens.”

HAUTE CULTURE

FIT

Month In Review:

Fight for Democracy in Hong Kong by Dara Kenigsberg

Tens of thousands of pro - democracy protesters gathered in the Mong Kok district of Hong Kong for what is being called the biggest challenge to the mainland Chinese government in a generation. A new electoral system was recently put into place giving Hong Kong’s ﬁve million eligible voters the right to vote for the chief executive in 2017 (in the past, a 1,200 - member committee full of Beijing loyalists chose the winner.) However an even more recent policy was enacted that gives Beijing veto power on who can run as a candidate. According to CNN, “Critics argue that the right to vote is pointless if the candidates are hand picked by Beijing. They complain the Chinese government is encroaching too much on the affairs of Hong Kong, a semiautonomous Chinese territory ruled according to the ‘one country, two systems’ policy since the 1997 handover from Britain.” This issue is at the heart of the student - led demonstration. The pro - democracy protesters are claiming that Beijing is exerting too much inﬂuence over Hong Kong and are demanding the right to directly choose

candidates for elected positions as well as other reforms. The student activists had hoped to meet with Chief Secretary Carrie Lam, the No. 2 official in Hong Kong’s government, in an attempt to resolve the situation. However some of the student protestors have been beaten and others have been sexually harassed while the police just stood by and watched. Protest leader Edward Tsoi said that this has caused them to lose all faith in government officials. On October 3, fighting broke out between the protestors and opponents. Alex Chow, the secretary general of the student federation, told CNN that Friday’s unrest was organized “with the intention to cause chaos to allow police to clear activists there.” The protests have blocked off traffic on one of Hong Kong’s busiest intersections, angering many people. Joe Lee, one of the so - called “Occupy opponents” told CNN,

“They’ve been here for nearly a week. They need to clear out. It’s ruining our economy, they just need to leave.” Hong Kong’s police superintendent, Mok Hing - wing said at a news conference that anyone who did not leave could potentially be arrested. Despite the warnings, the crowd of protesters grew exponentially after the ﬁghts broke out. The economic impact of the protests has already begun to be felt. According to Reuters, “Hong Kong’s benchmark share index, the Hang Seng, plunged 7.3 percent in September, in part because of the uncertainty surrounding the protests, and was down 2.6 percent on the week on Friday. Luxury goods companies have taken a substantial hit, analysts say, with wealthy Chinese avoiding Hong Kong and going to other cities to shop instead.” Beijing is unlikely to concede out of fear that demands for a democracy will reach the mainland. There is also a lack of consensus surrounding what would lead to the end of protests aside from a reversal

of the government’s position and the resignation of Hong Kong chief executive Leung Chong - ling. Not to mention the fact that the number of people needed to block crucial city roads is very high. All of this has many wondering how much longer the protests will really last. According to The New York Times, “Further escalation by the protesters could alienate members of the public resentful of a demonstration that affects their daily lives. But without more aggressive steps, the protests could fade.” One protester, Tim Lan, an engineer who had been a part of the sit - ins everyday since they began, told The New York Times, “He expected the occupation to last another week at most. That’s about how long the protesters’ passion can last. After one, two weeks of occupation, protesters would start to think about how it affects the economy, the everyday lives of people.”

CDC Confirms First Case of Ebola on U.S. Soil by Dara Kenigsberg

On September 30, The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) confirmed the first diagnosed case of Ebola in the United States. The patient, identified by his half - brother as Thomas Eric Duncan, left Liberia on an overnight flight September 19 and landed in Texas the following day where he had plans to visit his family. On September 24, he went to the emergency room with nondescript symptoms but was released soon thereafter. He returned four days later by ambulance, which was when the doctors at Texas Health Presbyterian Hospital Dallas suspected Ebola and admitted him to isolation. Though Duncan wasn’t vomiting and didn’t have diarrhea the first time he went to the hospital, Texas Health Presbyterian is currently going over their procedures to figure out why the staff didn’t suspect Ebola on his first visit. Dr. Anthony Fauci, director of The National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Disease, told CNN’s “The Lead With Jake Tapper,” “A travel history was taken, but it wasn’t communicated to

the people who were making the decision....It was a mistake. They dropped the ball.” During his first visit, Duncan told staff that he came from Liberia but a comprehensive travel history was never communicated to the doctors tending to him. Texas Health Presbyterian said, “At that time, the patient presented with low grade fever and abdominal pain. His condition did not warrant admission. He also was not exhibiting symptoms specific to Ebola.” He had basic blood tests done but no screening for Ebola. He was prescribed antibiotics and sent home. Sanjay Gupta, CNN’s Chief Medical Correspondent said, “Duncan’s medical history was not acted on in an appropriate way….A nurse did ask the question and he did respond that he was in Liberia and that wasn’t transmitted to people who were in charge of his care. There’s no excuse for this.” U.S. officials agree, saying the situation was clearly a “screw - up.” Ebola is only contagious when the person is symptomatic and is contracted through exposure of the infected bodily fluids.

Thomas Frieden, the director of the CDC, along with other U.S. health officials, are confident that they can keep the virus from spreading throughout the country. The other people on the same flight as Duncan are not at risk because he was not showing any symptoms at the time. Since he arrived in the U.S. he came into contact with up to 20 people. The EMS workers who transported him are being monitored for symptoms and are in isolation. Also, five school - aged children at four different schools came into contact with him, but they are not showing symptoms. Procedure dictates that anyone who came into contact with him must be monitored for 21 days and have their temperature taken twice a day. According to the Washington Post, Frieden said, “The bottom line here is that I have no doubt we will control this importation, or this case of Ebola, so that it does not spread widely in this country. It is certainly possible that someone who had contact with this individual could develop Ebola in coming weeks, but there is no doubt in my mind that we will stop it here.”

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OCTOBER 2014

People’s Climate March Breaks Records by Dara Kenigsberg

On September 21, the day before the United Nations Climate Summit began, almost 400,000 people marched through the streets of New York City in what was the largest climate - change demonstration in history. Former U.S. Vice President Al Gore, U.N. Secretary General Ban Ki Moon, New York City Mayor Bill de Blasio (who just announced that he was committing the city to an 80% reduction in greenhouse gasses by 2050) and actors Mark Ruffalo and Leonardo DiCaprio were among the countless protestors. The march was the first in a series of events held around the world the same week as the summit, both of which were a part of Climate Week NYC. Sylvain Biville, who organizes the group, told USA Today that, “it is an annual event to get people together to make the business case for climate action.” He said the goal of the group is “a prosperous, low - carbon future” that will be achieved by “a rapid scale - up of low carbon energy and technology.” This was the first time in five years that world leaders gathered to discuss climate change. To show solidarity, demonstrators

across the world, from Paris to Papua New Guinea, joined in. According to Politico. Com, “Organizers said they held more than 2,000 climate - focused events in 162 countries, and Twitter’s feeds on Sunday included photos from marches in cities like London, Berlin, Rome, Rio de Janeiro and Melbourne, Australia.” People came from all over to march, some from as far as Rome. There were so many demonstrators on a 2.2 - mile strip that at one point, everyone came to a standstill because the route was entirely full. However, more than two hours into it, more people were still coming to the starting point at Columbus Circle. According to the New York Times, “The signs that marchers held were as varied as the movement; ‘There Is No Planet B,’ ‘Forests Not For Sale,’ and ‘Jobs, Justice, Clean Energy’… On West 58th street, the minaret of an inﬂatable mosque bobbed next to a wooden replica of Noah’s Ark the size of a school bus. Nearby, Capuchin Franciscan monks in ﬂowing brown robes, who were in town from Rome for the march, mingled with nuns, while a

“THERE WAS A 3,000 - POUND ICE SCULPTURE THAT SPELLED THE WORDS ‘THE FUTURE’ MELTING INTO THE SIDEWALK.” group ﬂying a pagan ﬂag beat a drum.” There were Hurricane Sandy victims carrying around life preservers, scientists with chalkboards and ordinary families, who said their children were the reason things must change. Kirsten Cunha and Alexandra Dos Santos, both 17 and high school seniors from Long Island, marched with dust masks over their mouths. Ms. Dos Santos told the New York Times, “Wearing masks like this could quite possibly be our children’s future.” At around 12:45, there was a moment of silence as marchers raised their arms and bowed their heads, followed by, what the New York Times called, “a minute - long cacophony intended as a collective alarm on climate change. There were the beats of the drums and the blaring of horns,

but mostly it was whoops and cries of the marchers.” One of the group’s organizers, international advocacy group Avaaz, then presented a petition demanding climate change that had over 2.1 million signatures on it. Perhaps just as poignant was something not even on the route of the march. In front of the Flatiron Building, there was a 3,000 - pound ice sculpture that spelled the words “The Future” melting into the sidewalk. Japanese ice sculptors took two days to make it. Nora Ligorano, one of the artists who came up with the idea, told the New York Times, “I would say we are melting down the future. It’s a comment on what we are doing to the planet.”

Emma Watson and the HeforShe Campaign by Dara Kenigsberg

On September 20, Emma Watson, a U.N. Women Goodwill Ambassador, gave an ardent speech on feminism and gender equality issues at the U.N. The speech launched the U.N.’s HeForShe campaign. HeForShe is led by U.N. women and encourages men around the world to speak out against the inequalities that women are faced with. Emma Watson told the Daily Telegraph that “it is a solidarity movement for gender equality that brings together one half of humanity in support of the other half of humanity, for the entirety of humanity,” and it aims to “put men at the center of activism and dialogue to end persistent inequalities faced by women and girls around the globe.” At the start of her speech, she discussed how feminism has become synonymous with man hating, and then went on to say, “If there is one thing I know for certain, it is that this has to stop. For the record, feminism by deﬁnition is the belief that men and women should have equal rights and opportunities. It is the theory of political, economic and social equality of the sexes.” An obvious deﬁnition like this may seem repetitive, but in a time where we have groups called, “Women Against Feminism,” such an obvious and explicit explanation is essential. Addressing the misconceptions surrounding what many call “the eight - letter

F word,” Watson described what she believes Feminism is really about. “I am from Britain, and I think it is right I am paid the same as my male counterparts. I think it is right that I should be able to make decisions about my own body. I think it is right that women be involved on my behalf in the policies and decisions that will affect my life. I think it is right that socially, I am afforded the same respect as men.” She goes on to give men a formal invitation to take part in these issues because, “Gender equality is your issue, too. Because to date, I’ve seen my father’s role as a parent being valued less by society, despite my need of his presence as a child, as much as my mother’s.... We don’t often talk about men being imprisoned by gender stereotypes, but I can see that they are, and that when they are free, things will change for women as a natural consequence.” Following her speech, there was an outpouring of support from around the world, from both ordinary citizens and celebrities. 15 - year old Ed Holton, fed up with how ignorant some of his classmates are at his all - boys school in England, wrote to the Sunday Telegraph in response to her speech. In the letter, which went viral, he wrote, “We must all make an active decision to change our

language. We must stop pressuring each other to fit stereotypes which more often than not leaves [sic] us feeling repressed and unable to express ourselves. We must not let gender define us." But not every reaction has been a positive one. According to truthdig.com, “Several users of the online bulletin board 4chan decided to respond by making public threats that the 24 - year - old would be the ‘next’ victim in a recent spate of celebrity nude photo leaks for being a ‘feminist bitch.’ They even set up a website with a self - explanatory URL: EmmaYouAreNext.com.” Cathy Young’s article in Time magazine entitled, “Sorry Emma Watson, but HeForShe is Rotten for Men,” pointed out where Watson and the campaign went wrong. “Men must indeed ‘participate in the conversation’ about gender issues but very few will do so if that ‘conversation’ amounts to being told to shut up and listen while women talk about the horrible things men do to women, and being labeled a misogynist for daring to point out that bad things happen to men too and that women are not always innocent victims in gender conflicts... - it must include the other side of that revolution. Not ‘he for she,’ but ‘She and he for us’.”

FIT SPEAKS How to be Parisian Wherever You Are by Dana Heyward

The effortless, nonchalant Parisian outlook on life always seems like something only the French can carry off and is unattainable for anyone else. I often look at famous Parisian women such as Audrey Tautou and Lea Seydoux in envy. But just last month, four Parisian women, Anne Berest, Audrey Diwan, Caroline de Maigret and Sophie Mas, decided to prove us wrong by releasing a book entitled, “How to Be Parisian Wherever You Are: Love, Style, and Bad Habits.” This is a funny and clever book that includes refreshing takes on the je ne sais quoi of Parisian women and tips on how even the non - Parisian can emulate it. While the book is meant to subtly poke fun at the Parisian stereotypes, I accepted this book as a challenge. I tried to be a Parisian for a day according to some tips in this book and here’s what happened.

I’m a bit of an obsessive fan of long ﬂashy nails with weird designs so I haven’t had bare, short nails since middle school. So for the ﬁrst time in a long time, I wore my nails short and well, semi - bare. Inherently, I caved and had to spice up my bare nails with just “a little” nail art. (see photo)

This wasn’t as easy as it sounds. While being alone in a Starbucks or some other café is completely normal, just simply drinking your coffee and not having Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver. your eyes glued to your phone or some other gadget you rely 3. “The Parisienne retains her little imper- on, is most definitely not done in today’s tech - driven society. I lasted about fifteen fections, cherishes them even (the gap in minutes before I whipped out my phone her smile or her slightly crooked tooth, and started vigorously flipping through her prominent eyebrows or strong nose): Tumblr as if it were imperative. these are the signs of a certain strength of character and allow her to feel beautiful 6. “Always look as if you’re gazing at the without being perfect.” sunset. Even during rush hour in the Metro.” My shaggy eyebrows are the daily befuddlement of my makeup routine. I refuse I’m not exactly sure what this meant, but to get them threaded or waxed because I for someone who has a naturally scowl fear I’ll walk out the salon with none at esque face, this felt very unnatural and all. So I instead opt to brush, outline and fill them in, in hopes that they’ll appear like decent eyebrows versus Velcro. But skipping this routine and letting my bushy eyebrows flourish was oddly liberating. Would I do it again though? No. 4. “A Parisienne lets the phone ring. (She’s not waiting by the phone.)”

Photo courtesy ofnpr.org.

1. “Don’t eat breakfast” and “Have vodka in the afternoon and green tea in the morning.” Skipping breakfast? Easy. Green tea in the morning? Simple enough. Vodka in the afternoon with no occasion? Never again. 2. “Short, clean nails, sometimes worn with polish - but not always”

a sidewalk café….You have no real reason to be there….You will stay as long as you like and will only leave when you’re ready.”

I never thought I was a waiting - by - the - phone gal until I realized...I was, so this step was harder for me than it should have been. But it was nice letting someone else wait for that sacred vibration signaling a text. It made me realize I should adopt this more into everyday life. 5. “You are drinking your coffee alone in

voice, whether it’s your parents, the taxi driver, your boss, etc.” As I get older I realize I talk to my parents pretty much the same way I talks to my friends. But when it comes to grandparents, taxi drivers, sales associates or

“HAVE VODKA IN THE AFTERNOON AND GREEN TEA IN THE MORNING.” any perfect stranger my tone completely changes to this peppy, high - pitched tone that I hardly recognize. But I do it because it seems like the socially acceptable thing to do. But after attempting this tip, I concluded that talking to the Caffe Bene barista as if you two go way back isn’t something I advise anyone trying. 8. “Go to bed with all your jewelry on and take all your makeup off.” I already do the exact opposite of this. I make it a point to take off my watch, rings and necklace before I hit the sack but will occasionally go to sleep with a full face of a makeup with no shame. While cleaning my face before I went to bed made me feel better about myself, leaving on the jewelry left some nasty marks.

After a day of changing my mindset and thus becoming Photo courtesy ofDana Heyward. an impromptu Parisian, I was I was of placed out of my comfort zone and being course met with odd stares from passers plucked into a world of chic, effortless - by. and nonchalant French attitudes. It was an interesting experience, to say the least, 7. “Talk to everyone with the same tone in but then again staying in my comfort zone is cool too. C’est la vie!

OCTOBER 2014

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OYB: 2014 DUMBO ARTS FESTIVAL A Treasure Worth Exploring by Karen Wu

The 2014 DUMBO Arts Festival showcased innovative and creative exhibitions placed throughout the neighborhood’s dark street corners. With over 200,000 visitors and 400 artists participating, the three - day event included 100 studios, 50 galleries and stages and 100 programming partners. This is the largest free art event in New York City, offering art to anyone who passes by.

Her piece, “SEI: Stella Octangula,” let viewers control a large scale LED star sculpture with their hands. Changing the position of your ﬁngertips changed the way the star shined. Astronomic and futuristic sound effects enhanced the experience. The star was placed under-

REFLECTION/ KOLONIHAVEHUS BY TOM FRUIN

Already in their 18th year, the Arts Festival took over places such as St. Ann’s Warehouse, transforming it into a huge arts space with breathtaking exhibitions like “Degrees of Freedom” by Sabrina Barrios and “Digital Being” by Taezoo Park. Walls along York Street were completely covered by original and inspiring graffiti by artists like Stefan Sagmeister, Momo and DALeast. Ongoing performances and colored brick floors completely transformed what is known as a historical and industrial neighborhood into a center of creativity, innovation and fun. An installation that really piqued my interest was Tom Fruin’s “Reflection/ Kolonihavehus.” It contained a house that was built of Plexiglass with reference to Dutch painter Piet Mondrian’s style (reference the picture.) It was placed underneath the Brooklyn Bridge, which made its colorful lights blend with those of the Manhattan skyline.

Photo courtesy of tomfruin.com

CHIMATEK BETA LAUNCH BY SAYA WOOLFALK

Similar to Park, artist CHiKA captivated her audience by playing with technology.

Saya Woolfalk’s exhibition, “ChimaTEK Beta Launch,” won the award for best exhibition at the festival. The display is the third and final component of “The Empathics,” a project Woolfalk has been working on for the past seven years. In this installation, the fictional characters, the Empathics, launch a corporation, ChimaTEK, from their original non - profit. This corporation makes the creation and manipulation of species and its hybridization available for purchase in order to create a new Empathic. Her exhibition shows their marketing strategy through the presentation of digital and interactive video sculptures. The exhibit will be on display until November 9. Providing a unique experience with a variety of art, medias, performances and styles, the DUMBO Arts Festival transformed its home into a magical, exciting neighborhood of discoveries and experiences. Unfortunately, this treasure is still unknown to many New Yorkers and it definitely should be explored.

The house was inhabited by two women dressed in white, who invited viewers into a deep reﬂection about everyday dilemmas, social patterns and behavioral paradoxes. The participants could freely walk around the house for a more enriched experience. Also worth seeing was “Digital Being,” which won the award for the best individual project of the festival. The artist behind the project, Taezoo Park, is a Brooklyn - based artist known for his digital media and technology art creations. “Digital Being” is a series of sculptures made from all kinds of electronic waste. Park combined different gadgets into an organized chaos of cables, televisions, computers and lightbulbs. He went so far as to propose the possibility of these electronics accidentally generating codes and becoming conscious, as a living being.

“Lost Carcosa,” a group exhibition curated by Todd Masters at Masters Projects, is one to take note of. Carcosa is a ﬁctional city from Ambrose Bierce’s short story “An Inhabitant of Carcosa.” The exhibit is based on the artist’s interpretation of this city which explains why most of the paintings exude feelings of chaos. He uses a fascinating combination of styles that brings viewers into their own little Carcosa, including the use of dynamite made of knitted wool and tiny lit photographs to create the skeleton of a boat. The exhibition is on view until November 1.

SEI: STELLA OCTANGULA BY CHIKA Photography by Karen Wu.

neath the Manhattan Bridge Archway, which transformed that small, dark corridor into a magical pathway. In addition to the outdoor sculptures, hidden on the second ﬂoor of 111 Front Street Galleries, was a wide array of contemporary paintings, sculptures and photography. Visitors browsed from gallery to gallery, enjoying the best of what Kunsthalle Projects, Klompching Gallery and Masters Projects, as well as many others, had to offer.

FIT SPEAKS

Roe Buonanoce - FMM - New York has exposed me to so many different cultures and styles which have shaped me as an individual.

Bianca Bello - AMC - Growing up in New York has inﬂuenced my personality immensely. I take what I see and create what I want to be.

FIT

Raf - Film and Media - Out here I am a part of an unsaid culture of guys who express themselves through weird fashion.

STYLE ON 27 Photography by Vicky Mathew

“How has

NYC inﬂuenced your culture?” So Yeon Park - Continuing Ed - New York City helped my spiritual growth.

Marion Saint - Jean - Fashion Design - New York has a more liberal and approaching view of different sense of fashion styles.

Tim Kurbanov - Interior Design - NYC doesn’t change you, it makes your true personality come out.

Heather Cullum - Photography - NYC has changed me for the better. I live for the style, language and international culture I witness every time I step outside.

Mengxi Jiang - Fashion Design NYC has allowed me to dress in the way I want.