VOLUME 50 • ISSUE 5 • MARCH 2016
MASTHEAD
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FIT
Jenny Kim Executive Editor
Dan Nissim Digital Content Editor
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MAY 2016
CONTENTS
Dara Kenigsberg Editor–in–Chief
Dana Heyward Managing Editor
W27
ON THE BLOCK
A LE T TE R FRO M TH E E D ITO R What a difference a year makes! When I think back to the end of the semester last year, I was in such a different place than I am now. With graduation fastapproaching, the idea of going out into the real world is suprisingly becoming less and less scary. Had this been a year ago, I would have been trepidatious and maybe even in a little bit of denial. But this year I have learned so much about myself, my friends and family, and of course,my writing. Though I don’t want to leave FIT, especially W27, I know that I will be able to overcome everything that comes my way.
Marina Herbst Treasurer Jonathan Lee Copy Editor Hayden Werp Advertising Manager
EDITORS Kaylee Denmead Jordyn Ferriss Dan Nissim Dana Heyward Kaitlyn Gorecki
I am so grateful to have been a part of this paper. Having had people like last year’s editor-in-chief, Hermina Sobhraj along with our advisor, Professor John Simone, there to mentor me and believe in me made all the difference in the world. In fact, it was Professor Simone who encouraged me to go to my first newspaper meeting, thus changing the course of the last few years and possibly even the rest of my life. I just hope that my successor, Dan Nissim, loves W27 as much as I do because it is now officially in his hands.
ART Danielle Gosda Art Director Carmen Li Rose-Ann Reynolds Senior Designers Joanna Bugenis Faith Eloriaga Junior Designer
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Wonderland for the Evening
Meghan Kane Andrea Navarro Kayla Renshaw Martin Allen Kaylee Denmead Veronica Tripoldi Zatanya Cooke Veronica Marrinan Jordyn Ferriss Melissa de Oliveira Caterina Nicolini Allison Hatch Natalia Pereira Breanna Lang
“YOU’RE ON YOUR OWN. AND YOU KNOW WHAT YOU KNOW. AND YOU ARE THE ONE WHO’LL DECIDE WHERE TO GO.”
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Congrats to our Grads: W27 Celebrates its Departing Staff
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Fashion Revolution: Rana Plaza Vigil / Fashion Revolution: Colleen Hill
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Fashion Revolution: Elizabeth Cline / Fashion Revolution: Company Culture Matters
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Student Spotlight: Jayla Koriyan Watson
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FIT Master Plan / Award Winners
DEAR INDUSTRY 10
The Revolving Door: Retail’s Struggle to Develop and Maintain Strong Leaders
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A Career That Goes to 11
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Steve Madden Interview / MTA: Big Changes Taking Place Soon
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The MET Gala: Fashion in the Age of Technology / Changes in Calvin Klein
FEATURE
Now that my time has come to say farewell one last time, I can’t help but have tears in my eyes. This has been such an incredible journey, but I know that I, like all of you seniors out there, must start a new chapter in my life that is both scary and exciting. So to those of you who are graduating, I wish you all the best of luck and that your wildest dreams come true. We all deserve it!
CONTRIBUTORS
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Vicky Mathew Photography
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Behing the Designs: A Look into the Studio Interviews with Senior Fashion Designers
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The Child Bride Crisis
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Gender Fluidity
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Bathroom Debacle
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Girls-Only Weekend, New Yorker Style
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Future of Fashion
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Tribeca Film Festival Review: Audience Award, Narrative Screening - First Place “Here Alone” / ‘Sing Street’ A Beacon in the Bleak World of Film
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TV Review: “The Girlfriend Experience” / Concert Review: ‘Nine Track Mind’ Tour Review
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Death of a Prince
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Should I Stay of Should I Go: A Brief Look at ‘Brexit’
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Humans of FIT: Eva Brown and Jordan Strickland
Professor John Simone Editorial Faculty Adviser
HOFIT
Professor Albert Romano Advertising Adviser
BEAUTY BUZZ 28
Photograph by Vicky Mathew
W27 NEWSPAPER
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Avoiding the “Sumertime Sadness”
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Kim Kardashian’s Nudes Could Actually Help With the Construction of Feminism
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How to Spend Four Years at FIT
STYLE ON 27 32
@W27NEWSPAPER
@W27NEWSPAPER
W27 IS PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PLEASE RECYCLE AFTER READING. WWW.W27NEWSPAPER.ORG
A FIT STUDENT ASSOCIATION PUBLICATION.
If you are interested in being a part of the art team for W27 please email w27art@gmail.com
Danielle Gosda Art Director
Four Festival-Ready Beauty Products / Four Beauty Books to Read Over Summer Break
FIT SPEAKS ON THE COVER:
I wish the best of luck to all of the graduating seniors. I know you all will do great things in the future. As for all of those not graduating, see you in the fall! Look out for some changes I am going to make to incorporate my style into the paper!
MONTH IN REVIEW
---DR. SEUSS
Dara Kenigsberg Editor–in–Chief
Fire and Ice: Fashion Design AAS Exhibition / FIT Semi-Formal Took Students to
A LETTER FROM TH E A RT D I R EC TO R
Time for Boys
Our deepest apologies go out to Zatanya Cooke who wrote “Hide Your Kids! Hide Your Wife! Hide Your Data?” In last month’s issue, the article “Hide Your Kids! Hide Your Wife! Hide Your Data?” was written by Zatanya Cooke, not Zatanya Smith as it is printed in the byline. Our deepest apologies go out to you!
ON THE BLOCK
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W27
MAY 2016
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CONGRATS TO OUR GRADS
W27 CELEBRATES ITS DEPARTING STAFF
BY JENNY KIM AND DANIEL NISSIM
FIRE AND ICE: FASHION DESIGN AAS EXHIBITION BY: KAYLA RENSHAW
Fire and ice, two contrasting elements that seem to mesh together in the best possible way, are also the two elements that serve as the theme for this year’s annual Fashion Design AAS Exhibition. Each year a select number of graduating fashion design students submit their designs in hopes to be featured in the exhibit. This year, the inspiration drew varying designs that perfectly displayed the theme. From the fire red blazers to the white ball gowns each garment varied drastically from its neighbor — no two pieces were exactly the same. The baby blue pieces mixed amongst some of the more eccentric patterns proved to be a cool contrast and easy on the eye.
Dresses were the most popular garments on display throughout the exhibition with styles ranging from casual to formal. Ruff les, cutouts, open backs and sparkles were popular trends that appeared on numerous dresses in the different collections. Jumpsuits and full outfits were a close second in the popularity contest, both making numerous appearances throughout.
DA N A H E Y WA R D
Dana Heyward: My experience has been eye-opening, to say the least. To me, the FIT experience is all about exploration, and I’ve become so much more aware and open to different things.
Lining the walls at the back of the room and towards the outskirts were the original sketches of the designs that were featured. Tables that were located just below the sketches held portfolios and business cards of the students featured in the exhibition – another chance for the students to be noticed.
JK: What is the biggest lesson you learned at FIT and from being on W27 for all four years?
The featured garments required a huge amount of effort and determination on the designer’s end — two traits that are easy to distinguish just by glancing at the pieces on display. It is easy to tell that the designers take pride in the work that they do. Each article that was picked held its own zest and ref lected the different personalities that each designer possessed. Being featured in the exhibition is an honor and each year designers respond with cutting-edge designs.
In total, there were nine collections on display and each was led by a different faculty member and possessed its own niche. Featured towards the front of each collection were the award-winning pieces. Each featured item that was on display accurately represented the message that particular collection was trying to get across.
PHOTO COURTESY: DANA HEYWARD
Dana Heyward, who is graduating with a Bachelor of Science in advertising and marketing communications, has been with W27 Newspaper since she was a freshman. As managing editor, senior editor and a talented writer, she has always been dedicated to W27. With graduation rapidly approaching, Heyward sat down with W27 to share her experiences from the past four years at FIT and W27, and tell us how she feels about stepping into the next chapter in her life.
DAR A KEN IGSB ERG
FIT SEMI-FORMAL TOOK STUDENTS TO WONDERLAND FOR THE EVENING BY ANDREA NAVARRO
On April 29, FIT threw its annual semi-formal party at 26 Bridge in Brooklyn. The event, aptly named “An Evening in Wonderland” was inspired by Lewis Carroll’s popular novels, “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland,” “Through the Looking-Glass” and “What Alice Found There,” which are now pop culture staples. The doors opened at 7 p.m. sharp. Upon entering, students were immediately transported to Wonderland. For the first hour, small appetizers were served and the bar had Wonderland-inspired non-alcoholic drinks with names such as “The Mad Hatter” (fresh brewed ice tea, rosemary lemonade) and “The Queen of Hearts” (cranberry juice, citrus and apple slices, club soda). Dinner — chicken or a vegetarian, gluten-free option—was served soon thereafter, followed by sweet, bite-sized appetizers for dessert. “I’m actually very impressed,” said Soni Solano, a fashion business management student. “The venue looks beautiful and the decor is gorgeous. The food is great, too.” The venue, 26 Bridge, which used to be a metal factory, has brick walls, large wooden doors and beautiful high ceilings. The ample, luminous space provided the perfect backdrop for the Wonderland theme. The juxtaposition of the building’s industrial past and the wondrous, romantic decorations of the event was a stunning contrast. Before entering the main room, there was a
smaller one with signs that read “It Was Only a Dream” and “Falling Down The Rabbit Hole.” Colorful centerpieces made up of roses, tea cups and books were at each table, as well as black candles and mushrooms inside of crystal cages. Wreaths and tiny lights hung from the high ceilings and a photo booth with a deck of cards as background (a nod to the Queen of Hearts court from “Alice in Wonderland”) were a testament to the careful planning that went into everything. Although the dress code for the event was supposed to be semi-formal, there was a large variety of ensembles ranging from short cocktail dresses to more formal f loor-length gowns. Whatever the length, the clear favorites were f loral prints as well as monochromatic white and black outfits. “Everyone is dressed so beautifully,” said Nina Cohen, a textile development and marketing major. “There’s really just a very upbeat vibe.” Although the party felt a lot like prom at times, it was fun, gorgeously decorated and thoughtfully planned and executed. Despite all this, one of the best things about the evening took place outside. With Brooklyn Bridge Park only a couple blocks away from the venue, going for a walk with the Manhattan skyline dancing in front you or taking photos with it as the backdrop are both excellent reminders that going to college in New York City is an experience like no other.
PHOTO COURTESY: DARA KENIGSBERG
Dara Kenigsberg has been with W27 since the beginning of her freshmen year. In her first year, she took over the Month in Review section and by her sophomore year she was made Managing Editor and a Junior editor as well. Her meteoric rise paved the way for her appointment as this year’s Editorin-Chief. She has taken W27 to new heights: exploring majors other than fashion design for the cover and feature article. Dara also ended the tradition of themed issues — a move that has helped writers explore stories that they’re interested in, not conforming to a specific theme. I sat down with Dara to discuss her time at FIT and W27 and looked to the future. PHOTO COURTESY: ANDREA NAVARRO
Jenny Kim: How was your overall experience here at FIT?
DH: Organization and time management, for sure. I’ve almost always worked or interned part-time while taking a fairly heavy course load, and there’s a lot of students here who do the same. But being a part of W27 definitely added another commitment that I had to learn to balance into my schedule. I’ve learned that sometimes I just need to step back, breathe and reevaluate if I’m ever overwhelmed. JK: How do you feel about finally graduating? Are you excited? Nervous? DH: Going to FIT and having NYC as our campus definitely prepares us for “the real world” in a way a lot of colleges don’t, so I’m not exactly nervous. It’s more so this weird blend
Daniel Nissim: What was your best experience during your time at FIT? Dara Kenigsberg: Over the last four years, I have had so many different amazing experiences - FIT has provided me with opportunities that I couldn’t have had anywhere else. But even with all of the fashion shows, movie premieres, gallery openings and networking events, the best experience I have had has been being a part of W27. The skills that I have gained from holding different positions on the staff are invaluable and my writing has improved exponentially. As amazing as that all is, W27 has also given me such a wonderful group of friends who are always there for me no matter what. Without them, I don’t know how I would have gotten through these last few years. DN: How has W27 helped you as an individual? DK: W27 has done so much for me I don’t even know where to begin. I definitely have to say that had it not been for my time on the paper, I might never have discovered my love and passion for investigative journalism and for telling stories that significantly impact people’s lives. When I first applied to FIT, I didn’t really have a clear direction - I have always loved fashion and shopping, for me, is very rewarding, so I figured that being a buyer and a stylist would meet
of excitement and anxiety, but I’m more than ready to graduate.
loving it. It’s good to keep in mind that sometimes plans just don’t work out.
JK: What do you plan to do after you graduate?
JK: If you could go back and change one thing, what would it be?
DH: I’m still on the job hunt, but I’m hoping to enter a media or marketing position related to food and culture. But over the summer, I plan on taking a break and traveling a bit around the U.S. I really haven’t traveled at all since starting college, so it’ll definitely be nice to see outside of New York. First stop is New Orleans!
DH: My only regret is not doing study abroad. It’s just one of the opportunities you only really have in college, and I wish I’d taken advantage of that.
JK: If you could give one piece of advice to next year’s graduates, what would it be? DH: It’s OK not to have everything figured out. I came to FIT thinking I must have all these plans that needed to be followed through, but I’ve changed what I wanted to do post-FIT at least five times. Even now, on the brink of graduation, I’m still not 100 percent sure of what I want to do. But over the years, I’ve met so many people who’ve changed their career paths after college and end up doing something completely different from what they planned but end up
both criteria. However, the idea of making all of these purchase that i wouldn’t be able to keep was just something i could not get past. Since I have also always enjoyed writing, I also considered fashion journalism, but when I began writing the Month In Review articles, I quickly realized that fashion journalism was not for me and that I wanted to write more I -depth, investigative pieces. DN: How do you think your time at FIT has prepared you for the future? DK: I think overall I have just grown and matured so much in these last four years and I am at such a different place in my life than I was when I first started here. I don’t know if I can pinpoint exactly how FIT has prepared me but I do know that I am ready to get started with the best phase of my life. As much as I love being in school, it is time for me to spread my wings and I know that everything I have learned here at FIT has contributed to my being ready to do so. DN: What do you hope the W27 team will continue next year? In other words, how do you think your legacy will guide W27 in the future? DK: when I became EIC there were a lot of things that I wanted to change about the paper - I wanted to make sure that I made it my own and I am proud to say
JK: What will you miss the most after leaving FIT and W27? DH: I’ll mostly miss the student body. The FIT community is full of hardworking and creative individuals and just being part of this environment is infectious. It motivates you to work both harder and smarter. I’ll also miss the overall learning experience from being a part of W27. It kind of makes me cringe thinking about some of the stuff I wrote freshman year, but I think I’ve grown as a writer each year. I’ve definitely still got some growing and learning to do, but being part of W27 has aided me in a such a positive way that I could not be more thankful for.
that I have accomplished basically everything I set out to. The main things include getting rid of the monthly themes, featuring students from different majors and not just those in fashion design, (the students at FIT are so creative and have a wide range of talents and I felt it was time we started to showcase them) and breaking down the barriers between the editors and the writers. I wanted to create an environment where the writers felt comfortable and didn’t have any qualms about asking for help. Also, I implemented a new editing system that actually helps the writers improve and shows them what needs to be fixed and why. There is no point in just editing their work and making the same corrections over and over again - no one benefits from that. With my system, the writers could see and understand why we made the edits we did and thus were able to grow and improve their writing. DN: What’s next for you after graduating? DK: I am going to be working in journalism for a year before heading to grad school. My hope is that I will get into the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism where I can focus specifically on investigative journalism.
ON THE BLOCK
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MAY 2016
FA S H I O N
FASHION REVOLUTION: COLLEEN HILL BY VERONICA TRIPODI
Colleen Hill, Associate Curator of Accessories at the Museum at FIT and author of “Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present, & Future,” spoke about the importance of each stage of the fashion production cycle on Thursday, April 22 in room C615. Hill opened the presentation by explaining that one of the problems concerning the prospect of sustainable fashion is that there is no official definition for it. The language is constantly changing. Fortunately, the terms ‘sustainability’ and ‘sustainable fashion designer’ don’t carry the negative stigma that they used to. Hill explained that sustainability, which was once a novelty in the fashion world (think paper evening dresses of the 1960s,) is now integral to it. Once popularly referred to as ‘green’ and ‘eco-friendly,’ sustainable fashion by designers like Stella McCartney and Clare Vivier has extended from the singular focus on the clothes themselves to business practices as well. Running a completely sustainable business is a tough goal to achieve, especially when creating a new product, Hill explained. “I find it very interesting that (a designer like) Yeohlee doesn’t consider herself a sustainable designer but works ideas like ‘zero waste’ into her collections,” she said, “which I think shows a real knowledge of the fashion industry but also her own knowledge of patternmaking.” Yeohlee has been known to reuse the same lavish fabrics that made up collections from earlier in her career. Labeling yourself as a sustainable fashion designer requires you to consider the holistic process of design, Hill said. There’s a whole system that must be considered when aiming for sustainability. It’s great if you want to make small steps, like if you’re only going to use organic fabric in your collections, she mentioned. “That’s a wonderful step, but you still have to think about how those are being made,
the long term effects and the afterlife of those garments.” A slideshow containing images of garments from the Museum at FIT was shown as Hill pointed out historical pieces that are emblematic of their respective times. A picture of a dress circa 1840, remade from 18th century silk, stood adjacent to one of an early 19th century reticule remade from a men’s waistcoat. Clothing pieces from this era were generally constructed with excessive amounts of fabric and constantly repurposed. Clothes weren’t thrown away just because they went out of fashion, Hill said. In 1960, the start of a period of sartorial inventiveness, bespoke designer Cifonelli made a suit from a paisley shawl. He used the underside of it to mute the loud pattern and provide a unique texture. The result of this was an unconventional effect and a continued use of the fabric. Hill suggested that more designers start employing similar modes of repurposing, such as upcycling, to extend the usability of fabrics and even garments. “I think for many young designers, because you’re working with such a small budget, the idea of upcycling is a fantastic one,” Hill said. “You’re making one-of-a-kind garments, you’re making clothing from something that is probably really inexpensive and unwanted by anybody else but you can find a way to incorporate your own vision into that. It is as much about creativity as it is about sustainability.” In terms of the future of sustainable fashion, Hill encouraged taking action. “Begin to demand the change,” she said. “Brands and designers will follow.”
FASHION REVOLUTION: RANA PLAZE VIGIL
RE VO LUTI O N:
Everything that we do, whether it’s what we say, what we wear, or what we buy has a ripple effect. Although we are one iota in the vastness of our planet, we have the ability to cause great change or great destruction especially in the world of fashion. Author of “Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion” and journalist, Elizabeth Cline, wants people to keep in mind “Are we accelerating forward? Or are we stuck, or moving backwards?” It’s safe to say both. Fashion is moving forward in some ways, but also moving back in other ways. Trends and styles are constantly transforming and moving back and forth between disruptive dressing that consists of edgy and creative looks and sustainable style that consists of simplicity and cleanliness. Technology is also faster and simpler, so consumers are able to purchase through more convenient ways because of retailers’ convergence of digital and physical channeling.
BY VERONICA TRIPODI
FIT’s Rana Plaza Vigil was held in the Breezeway on Sunday, April 24. Brenna Dolan, president of the Sustainability Club, led the ceremony alongside Anatol Justin Tong, the FIT Student Association’s director of sustainability, and Ola Stepnik, president of Corporate Social Responsibility and one of the organizers of Fashion Revolution — along with other members of the organization. The collapse of the Rana Plaza factory building in Bangladesh is the worst industrial accident to ever happen to the garment industry. On April 24, 2013, the Rana Plaza building came crashing down, killing 1,134 people and leaving thousands more injured. The gathering was intimate. Their voices booming, the FIT Gospel Choir sang while the small group of supporters stood by. As the melodic sound of the choir echoed throughout West 27th Street, passersby stopped for a moment while pedestrians on 8th avenue turned down the street to see what was going on. The vigil was accompanied by poetry readings from the FIT Theatre Ensemble as well as a reading of survivors’ accounts of the disaster by members of the Fashion Revolution Committee. “People in the industry need to be transparent about about their supply chains, which means not going through vendors that just give them the name of a factory,” said Dolan. “They need to have a more direct line of contact with these companies and make sure they’re not subcontracting to other factories that do not have any records of who is working there or anything that’s going on in their buildings,” she instructed. The leaders of the vigil asked those who were gathered outside on that brisk evening to learn as much as they can regarding issues like worker exploitation. They urged attendees to
start a dialogue on the subject in any way they can and with whomever is willing to listen, their goal being to spread awareness. n. Fashion Revolution uses the hashtag “#whomademyclothes “to directly ask brands to be transparent about who is making their clothes. It’s an easy way for people to get involved and actually ask for action,” said Dolan. The Fashion Revolution committee asked the group to turn their clothes inside out and backwards to show the tags, take a picture, post it on social media, tag the company that made those clothes and use “#whomademyclothes.” Although this movement is currently not that strong in the U.S., it is huge overseas. “There are over 70 countries that are involved every year,” said Dolan. “We’re trying to integrate this more into the U.S. and FIT is trying to head that movement by having events like these every year,” she added. “As this movement progresses, you’ll be able to see the growth, and maybe next year we’ll have a much bigger crowd than this.” Much like the FIT Gospel Choir, we can use our voices to garner attention for the ethical and sustainable issues surrounding our industry.
ELIZABETH CLINE
However, fashion is simultaneously
becoming more dangerous and exploited from a working standpoint. In Dhaka, Bangladesh, one of the world’s most populated cities, the human life expectancy is decreasing to 50. The reason behind this is due to the processing and manufacturing of leather goods that are releasing toxic chemicals into their water supply. In Shishi, China, their dyeing processes have polluted 50 Olympic swimming pools worth of water. These are only two of the many locations on this earth that are affected everyday by the detrimental effects of fast fashion. Although fast fashion combines limitless choice with low prices, we as consumers need to be aware of the effects of our purchasing decisions. On average, majority of fashion purchases are now only worn seven times and women ages 18-54 only wear 51% of what is in their closet. When companies develop all the clothing and products to offer to consumers, do they not think of all the unwanted clothing that can come about? Nowadays, charities receive so much unwanted clothing that
BY VICTORIA TRIPODI
only 20% of it are resold within their retail stores. The other 80% is exported to third world countries. People are recycling their clothing thinking that it will be deconstructed and reconstructed into something new, but in reality, it just gets sold back again and moved around the world. Fast fashion is like fresh fashion, but if it is fresh, then why does it quickly end up as waste? However, we as consumers can change that. If we change our shopping habits, and stop settling for the cute, cheap, and quick options and are willing to learn that our closets deserve higher quality, together we can make a great impact that will better our world. By wearing an item of clothing just 6-9 months longer, consumers can reduce the carbon, water and waste impact of their wardrobes by 20%-30%. If each and every single consumer were to do this, do you know how big of a positive ripple we could create?
FA S H I O N R E VO LUTI O N:
COMPANY CULTURE MATTERS
BY VICTORIA TRIPODI
Fast fashion has become so prevalent that natural artisans and unique craft makers are losing their shine over the bulk manufacturing of major retailers. Although new, advanced technology has helped recreate manufacturing and retailing today, there is a duty to maintain the cultural aspects and history of hand crafted art before our time. And Camper, a well-known shoe company, is doing just that. Camper, based in Inca, Spain, is an international retailer that has incorporated the use of special artisans to create their diverse designs, all the while helping the world. Miguel Fluxà, president of Camper, has decided to engage Camper by building strong connections with very different people with backgrounds of industrial design and fashion. Their shoes are one of a kind, and they were the first company to create the “no match for a pair of shoes”, meaning one shoe differs from the other even though they are a pair. They are defined by unexpected designs to showcase the diversity they have discovered through their special collaborations. Not only is diversity visible in their shoes, but also in their brick and mortar stores. They have teamed up with a great amount of talented, knowledgeable architects to create
a natural, yet strong connection between the store and its location to give the consumers a one of a kind shopping experience. For example, when partnering with Kengo Kuma, one of the most intriguing Japanese architects today, the store’s design layout was completely built out of wood and stone to create a warm and tender ambiance through the architecture for the consumers. Not only that, but the visual displays of the stores face inward instead of outwards to the people walking by to create an exclusive, yet unique direction that no other retailer has taken. Camper is not only focused on unique craft, but also on sustainability. Miguel Fluxà states that our culture today is “…just wasting things, one after the other.” However, Camper is facing that head on. The leather and cowhide materials that they use for their shoes are all chrome free. They also use recycled wool, and in 40 years they hope to incorporate sulfate free materials into their designs as well. Zero waste is an objective of their company and they currently use solar and wind energy to power their company. Little by little, project by project, is their way of action to achieve it. Transportation is their biggest challenge, but they try to compensate with cleaner energy.
PHOTO COURTESY: WWW.CAMPER.COM
Camper has created another collaboration, stating on their website “We have teamed up with the Ethical Fashion Initiative for a collaboration that brings together decades of shoemaking expertise and the richness of African materials and techniques.” They are partnering with Ethiopian artisans to create a modern twist to their designs. They also state that this collaboration “Helps to improve workers’ access to employment, knowledge, and skills”: all things that will benefit the people and world in no time.
ON THE BLOCK
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After 18 months of meetings, research and feedback from the FIT community, FIT’s 2015 Campus Master Plan has been approved by the school’s board of trustees on March 16.
STUDENT SPOTLIGHT: JAYLA KORIYAN WATSON BY ZATANYA COOKE
This school year, popular YouTube personality Jayla Koriyan Watson joined the FIT student body as a oneyear AAS advertising and marketing communications major. Hailing from North Carolina, this southern girl boasts over 290,000 subscribers between her main channel and her vlog, over 15 million views and more than 90,000 Instagram followers. She is known for her extremely entertaining college vlogs and her in-demand beauty tutorials. If you haven’t been tuning into Watson’s vlogs, you don’t know what you’re missing! W27 sat down with Koriyan to learn more about her and her experience at FIT.
ZATANYA COOKE: WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO COME TO FIT? JAYLA KORIYAN: FIT was always my dream school. However, like many of my peers, I am from out of state, so it wasn’t an option for me straight out of high school. Instead, I attended the University of Maryland Eastern Shore which offers a visiting student program that allowed me to study advertising and marketing communications for one year to obtain my associates degree. I will be returning to my base school next year to finish my bachelor’s degree in fashion merchandising. ZC: YOU RECENTLY TOOK OVER FIT’S INSTAGRAM PAGE FOR FIT’S FASHION SHOW’S JUDGING DAY. HOW DID YOU LAND THAT OPPORTUNITY? JK: Actually FIT’s social media team contacted me through my YouTube business email. They said they saw some of my YouTube videos about my time here on campus and would love to have me work more with FIT on social media. ZC: I KNOW THAT YOU WILL HEADING BACK TO YOUR BASE SCHOOL AFTER GRADUATION IN A FEW DAYS. WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED DURING YOUR TIME AT FIT AND IN NEW YORK CITY? JK: I have learned so much being at FIT and here in the city. The only time I had been to New York before moving here was when I was younger, so everything from the train system to making new friends was a bit of a challenge. Being in New York, I learned to put myself out there more no matter how nervous I am: no one would ever get to know me if I don’t speak up. FIT allowed me to really understand my true passion within the AMC major. While my bachelor’s degree is in
fashion merchandising, my classes have really made me have truly given me a love for advertising and social media. People only think of the typical fashion jobs in the industry but the possibilities are endless. ZC: LET’S TALK ABOUT YOUR YOUTUBE CAREER. YOU HAVE OVER 290,000 SUBSCRIBERS BETWEEN YOUR MAIN CHANNEL AND YOUR VLOG, AND YOU HAVE ACQUIRED OVER 15 MILLION VIEWS. HOW DO YOU COME UP WITH YOUR CONTENT AND WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE JUST STARTING OUT ON YOUTUBE WHEN IT COMES TO CREATING INTERESTING CONTENT? JK: I am naturally very girly and I’m into hair and makeup which was how I got my original start on YouTube (main channel) around the age of 14. It took time for me to master editing, lighting, and the full production of my videos. Now my content is my life so it’s not really hard to come up with. Once I started college, my audience began to want more of a behind the scenes feel of my life so that’s when I really started vlogging. Social media is ever-changing so I like to go with the f low of my audience for the most part. To someone who wants to start a YouTube channel, I say, just do it. You aren’t going to get anywhere if you don’t just start. There is no magical formula to being successful on YouTube. You literally have to put yourself out there and see what happens!
ZC: WHAT IS THE BEST PART ABOUT BEING A YOUTUBE PERSONALITY AND WHAT IS THE WORST PART?
JK: The best part is being an inspiration to someone. I get messages from girls saying that they never thought about going to college before watching my videos. I don’t even think I know how to take that sometimes. Little ol’ me, inspiring someone to do something they never thought about doing. Of course with the positive comes the negative. Putting my life out in the open for judgement, criticism and all the bad things that an anonymous person says behind a computer screen can sometimes be hard. I have to remind myself that I have too many people rooting me on to let those people affect me. ZC: YOUTUBE RECENTLY HOSTED THE FIRST #YOUTUBE BLACK SUMMIT. I KNOW YOU WEREN’T ABLE TO MAKE IT OUT THERE. BUT IN YOUR OPINION, DO YOU THINK THAT YOUR RACE PLAYS A PART IN YOUR SUCCESS ON YOUTUBE? JK: I was so mad I couldn’t attend, I had class the day of and morning classes the next day. It’s hard for an African American to break into any industry, let alone one that has a big part to do with the viewer identifying with you. I let my personality do the talking and gain viewers from my genuine online presence. ZC: THROUGH YOUR SUCCESS ON YOUTUBE, JAYLA KORIYAN HAS BECOME A BRAND. DESCRIBE THE JAYLA KORIYAN BRAND IN THREE WORDS. JK: GLAM, INDEPENDENT, GO-GETTER! ZC: WAS IT YOUR INTENTION TO BUILD THIS AMAZING BRAND AROUND YOURSELF AND WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AND YOUR BRAND IN FIVE YEARS?
JK: It was not my intention; if you would have told me at 14 that picking up a camera would have taken me here, I wouldn’t have believed it. I am currently writing a self-help book called “Pretty and Educated” for all my girls in college or about to go to college. I get asked questions everyday about college, my experience and select topics. In this book I share personal situations as well as advice on picking a major, money, dating, meeting friends and just overall growing into a young adult. I don’t know where the future is going to take me, but I am working hard every step of the way. My life is kind of unpredictable. I think I like the excitement of not knowing what’s next. I mean if someone would have told me last year that I would be writing a book now, I would have laughed at them!
MAY 2016
9
FIT’S MASTER PLAN
BY ANDREA NAVARRO
The plan, which is supposed to be updated every 10 years, is an outline for the future development of the physical facilities of the school campus in relation to its mission and goals. The plan does not address student dorms and residential facilities, which will be outlined in a different master plan. Preparations for the final draft of the master plan began two years ago, in Spring 2014, when the Fletcher Thompson Architecture Engineering (FTAE) group was hired to facilitate the planning process. The firm, which provides planning, design and consulting services,specializes in college and university clients and has completed master plans for schools like Columbia University and the New York Institute of Technology. FTAE has also worked with other SUNY schools — previous clients include Binghamton and Stony Brook. According to the FTAE, “with the implementation of the 2015 Master Plan Update, FIT will be uniquely positioned to serve a dynamic creative industry and to educate students for a world in need of critical thinkers, ‘smart creative’ collaborators, and problem solving citizens.” The project breakdown includes renovations to the Feldman Center, replacement in Nagler Hall, Business & Liberal Arts building renovations and, probably most important of all, a new academic building. One of the main goals of the new Master Plan was to increase the number of instructional spaces, which would in turn provide greater scheduling f lexibility and class times. Since FIT’s campus is no more than one city block, with academics buildings on one side and residence halls on the other, the construction of new spaces has always been a struggle.
The FTAE will need to create new spaces from “scratch” by renovating existing infrastructure since there is no room to create new structures. Their best bet is to modernize existing classrooms, which would increase their net total. Under their plan, the new academic building (NAB) will offer 15 new instructional spaces. According to Volume I of the 2015 Master Plan, “The program for the NAB will free up sufficient space at existing locations to raise the net total of additional classrooms to 23 — an increase of approximately 10 percent over the current instructional space total of 205.” Many renovations and projects are scheduled to take place over the next ten years, including but not limited to: a Dubinsky second f loor and terrace expansion (2016), a Pomerantz Green Roof with skylights (2017), a Business and Liberal Arts escalator replacement (2018), a Lighting Lab relocation (2019), the New Academic Building, which will start construction in 2017 (2020) and new restrooms, security systems, handicapped accessibility and sidewalk replacements (2020-2025). Joyce F. Brown, President of FIT, explained in an open letter at the beginning of Volume I that it is “thoughtful, thorough, exciting, a plan that expresses a visionary strategy for the short and long term, a plan that will allow FIT to create an environment worthy of its goals.” If the Master Plan is executed accordingly, there will be a significant improvement in student life. Infrastructure makes an impact on the overall quality of a student’s education: classrooms, equipment, technology, laboratories, studios, the library, student learning spaces and administrative offices fall into the plan’s purview. Considering the fast-pace environment of New York City and FIT, an updated plan that acknowledges the changes in culture, industry, technology, curriculum and even the new ways in which students learn and study is not merely needed, it’s essential.
AWARDS DINNER WINNERS CLUB OF THE YEAR: Skyliners Club NEW CLUB AWARD: Taiwanese Student Association
MARION K. BRANDISS EXTRACURRICULAR SERVICE AWARDMarvin Sanford
PRESIDENT’S AWARD: Krista Pershinsky (Skyliners Club)
AMY LOCICERO EXTRACURRICULAR SERVICE AWARDAllie Carter MICHAEL A. NOETH SERVICE AWARDKayla Carlucci
JK:
OUTSTANDING NEW PROGRAMMING AWARD: Theatre Ensemble
1. Think hard on your brand name. You want it to be able to grow with you as you get older.
OUTSTANDING ANNUAL PROGRAMMING AWARD: Black Student Union (BSU)
2. It’s okay to feel like you don’t have it all together. It wouldn’t be a journey if everything was just handed to you.
COLLABORATIVE PROGRAMMING AWARD: Runway27
PHILIP MILIO LEADERSHIP AWARDValeria Valencia
COMMUNITY SERVICE AWARD: Merchandising Society
DIRECTOR’S MERIT AWARDMarty Sullivan II
ZC: I think that’s awesome. What are some tips you would give a young person building a brand?
3. Have faith in yourself. A single soul does not have to see your vision as long as you do. 4. Just do it. Fail over and over again. Pick yourself back up and fail again. One of those failures will be the very thing that makes you succeed.
MOST FINANCIALLY RESPONSIBLE AWARD: Black Student Union (BSU) LEGACY AWARD: Merchandising Society ADVISOR OF THE YEAR AWARD: Chenise Marine-Rice (Black Student Union) PUBLICITY AWARD: Public Relations Student Society of America (PRSSA) COMMUNICATIONS COUNCIL AWARD: Blush Magazine
SYLVIA GALVARIN RISING STAR AWARDHeather Gershonowitz
MAX MEYER AWARD Marvin V. Sanford PETER VOGEL “GOLD” LEADERSHIP KEYS Ashleigh Bagnata Brenna Dolan Brigitte Ganzer Kaitlyn Marhelko Ashlie Major Madeline Maciagiewicz Krista Pershinsky Anatol Justin Tong Valeria Valencia Christopher Wallace PETER VOGEL “SILVER” LEADERSHIP KEYS Vanessa Acero Aurora Azon Brittany Burgos Karina Grossman Bruno Meira
DEAR INDUSTRY
10
THE REVOLVING DOOR: RETAIL’S STRUGGLE TO DEVELOP AND MAINTAIN STRONG LEADERS BY ZATANYA COOKE
From top-level executives to f loor management positions, the retail industry is becoming increasingly less appealing to work in. With the rise of digital accessibility, a new unpredictable target market (millennials) and a new wave of uncommitted workers (millennials, again), retailers are more confused than ever on how to prioritize their companies — and less sure of the skill set that is necessary to run one that is successful. Last year, mega-retailers, such as American Apparel, Quiksilver Inc., Sport’s Authority and Wet Seal, filed Chapter 11 bankruptcy. More brick-and-mortar stores are closing while more e-commerce brands are thriving. It is difficult to attract new talent when an industry is in a recession instead of growing. For years, retail companies have spent an excessive amount of money on executive management development programs for college graduates that typically garners a positive return on investment. College graduates often enter these programs as optional post-grad alternatives. While it may be another bullet point on a young person’s résumé, these programs have become risky business for big companies. “They have big ideas and a lot of demands, and they don’t have a lot of patience to do their time in order to progress through an organization. That’s creating a lot of angst for a lot of companies,” HRC Advisory President Farla Efros told WWD. Even if a millennial does take a position in corporate retail, they often don’t stay with a company beyond three years. It usually takes longer than that to move up to a significant position within a company. While millennials don’t get instant gratification in their career roles, senior executives are now forced to incentivize younger employees into staying. “We need to bring back mentoring programs,” Les Berglass, chairman and CEO of executive search firm Berglass + Associates, told WWD. “Retail, in particular, was known for inspiring mentors. … Also, with each passing day, millennials makeup a larger part of the workforce. Top-down, bully-pulpit leadership doesn’t work with them. They need to be listened to, not dictated to.” Millennials are also known to have strong entrepreneurial spirit. With the emergence of digital and mobile retail purchasing and social media, millennials have the option to easily start a business online with little money. They may not want to commit to a company that doesn’t fulfill their financial needs nor motivate their ideas. What kind of leader does it take not only to guide millennials but also to market to this fickle group? Joshua Evans, life coach, public speaker and author of “Enthusiastic You,” described it to WWD as someone who has the “ability to incite passion in a team and project confidence for shareholders, board members and customers … vision for their future and directness with the people they work with.” A boss not only has to have strong characteristics to boost employee morale, but they must also have the abilities to strategically make decisions in a demanding retail
environment. Omnichannel retailing is the new term coined for an integrated, seamless customer experience across multiple devices and touchpoints. This means an executive must manage each channel while keeping the brand’s mission consistent across each outlet.
The search for a perfect omnichannel boss is on the rise in retail. The demands for this job include knowing how to integrate and manage logistics, e-commerce, fulfillment and marketing seamlessly. Some companies have recently had technology and retail crossovers to fulfill their needs in areas where they want to evolve their brand in the digital age. For example, J.C. Penney hired Apple Senior Vice President Ron Johnson to bring its retail environment forward in this technology-driven society. While this proved to be a negative experience for both J.C. Penney and Johnson, they were definitely on to something. With similar motivation, Apple hired Burberry’s Angela Ahrendts to restructure the retail stores, which has proved to be a good blend of retail and technology. Retail is a business that is filled with many fast-paced changes. It is up to the boss to adapt to those changes quickly, juggle all major outlets cohesively to increase profits and motivate and keep their millennial junior level executives interested long enough to stick around. Janou, Principal at Janou LLC, told WWD, “Businesses need to be able to connect the dots among design, science, technology, product development, marketing — and that requires a brand new kind of talent that thinks holistically. This new talent loves to be entrepreneurial … and feel personally invested.” Finding this type of person can be difficult when experience is a key factor in the hiring process. Brenda Malloy of executive search firm Herbert Mines Associates told WWD that “bringing experience from successful companies and winning strategies is key. Past behavior is the best predictor of future performance.” Trying to find perfect candidates for roles that evolve more frequently than Rihanna changes hairstyles on any level is challenging. However, retailers might want to learn from millennials if they want to halt the revolving door. In an article for The Wall Street Journal, Rosabeth Moss Kanter, a professor at Harvard Business School, said, “C-suiters, meet the millennials. Young, highly educated employees born in the dawn of the digital age can seem a strange breed, but the future of your company depends on understanding and using them.”
FIT
W27
MAY 2016
11
A CAREER THAT GOES TO BY MARTIN ALLEN
Not many folks know what a luthier is off hand, but tucked away in a tiny Chelsea property next to the FIT campus is one known to many guitarists as a true master. Matt Brewster sits in the back of his shop, the new Anthrax record playing in the background, a gutted rig on his work table and a look of focus not unfamiliar to surgeons or bomb squads. While the consequences of his work may not be as dire, it’s clearly not only tedious and arduous, but also something he greatly enjoys. Brewster is the owner and founder of Midtown musicians’ staple, 30th Street Guitars. Despite relocating to 27th Street, the guitar store and repair shop chose to retain its original moniker. Name confusion aside, the store remains a quaint and friendly guitar shop, with an impressive and expansive collection of guitars, basses, amplifiers and effect pedals. Sandwiched by college dormitories and art supply stores, the shop itself is quite small, typical of New York properties. What it lacks in size, however, is more than made up for in customer service and a broad range of merchandise. Upon walking in, it’s easy to get excited about the amazing collection of instruments that hang on the walls. One could pick up a mid-’70s Gibson Melody Maker, and then swap that axe for one of the many Fender Stratocasters in the shop. It is a guitarist’s heaven, and Brewster might as well be the second coming of guitar Jesus, as far as Chelsea guitarists and bassists are concerned. He’s been able to amass a collection that includes everything from a standard Danelectro to a staggering $9,500 Gibson Les Paul. The collection grew and grew through “good word of mouth,” a factor that can make or break a merchant in any business. Suffice it to say, if you’re in the market for a fine vintage guitar, Brewster is the man to see. Clad in a T-shirt, light-wash jeans and a pair of black Vans, Brewster talked to W27 about why 30th Street Guitars ended up on 27th, next to the campus of one of the world’s top fashion schools. “[At] my old location, I was on 30th Street for 20 years, and the rents were out of control,” he said. “One of my customers owns the building. We got to be friends. I was very lucky.” And that is a very important point to make. Initially, it seems a bit strange that a store specializing in vintage, high-end instruments would share space with a college that is well known for churning out heavy-hitters in the fashion industry. Most students would sooner drop $1,500 on a pair of Valentino heels
then they would on a Fender ’52 Reissue Telecaster. But brewster is quick to draw a parallel between the two worlds between taking sips of his coffee and tightening a killswitch bolt on a gutted guitar. “The interesting thing is all the musicians know FIT because the fashion and music kinda goes together,” he said, which makes sense, as they are both art forms in their own right. Brewster, who has been working with guitars for 35 years, hails from Ossining, N.Y., a quaint town that was also the hometown of the Draper family on AMC’s “Mad Men.” A far cry from the intense and often insane Don Draper, Brewster grew up playing in anything from cover to new-wave bands, although he doesn’t play anymore. He also comes from a musical family. In terms of the day-to-day operations of the shop, Brewster spoke about his daily routine. “I get here early, open the shop up, start coming in and start fixing guitars,” he said. “And then the day just progresses. People start waking up or getting off of work and coming in, so they come to pick up repairs or see the latest new gadgets.” Even though foot traffic isn’t exactly heavy in the early morning, Brewster always makes sure he’s there early, a true sign of dedication to his craft. When it comes to the business end of things, he said repairs and sales are about 50-50, elaborating that his 20 years in the business has garnered him a big clientele for repairs. Unlike many guitar snobs, Brewster is as kind and welcoming as he is deft and masterful. It was his goal in opening the store back in 1995 to have a shop that was different than the stuffy, pretentious ones many musicians and patrons had known all too well. He takes pride in a shop that he obviously enjoys coming into every day. Just last year, 30th Street Guitars was enough of a standout to earn itself a positive piece in The New York Times. Even after the move three blocks downtown, the store has clearly been doing quite well. Just a peek at all the “sold” tags on the sales f loor is proof enough. The shop isn’t going anywhere soon, either, as Brewster has signed a 10-year lease on the building. Although the team at 30th Street Guitars is rather small, it’s able to turn out quality repairs at a reasonable price and also move an impressive amount of merchandise as well. If you go into the shop on a Monday one week and come back the next, there’s a good chance that the guitars on the wall will be different.
PHOTO COURTESY: WWW.THEGEARPAGE.NET
Brewster loves his job. That is undeniable. He’s happy to “provide a service that people need.” Being a luthier is no easy task, either. The dexterity and composure one needs to tinker with and repair these instruments is astounding, and backed by plenty of clients who’d agree, Brewster is a consummate master of his craft. He also comments on the best part of owning a guitar shop in New York City, what he calls his “career by default.” He said, “You just meet people. I can be around things that I love.” And that’s the dream, whether you’re a surgeon or a luthier.
DEAR INDUSTRY
12
FIT
W27
THE MET GALA: STEVEN MADDEN INTERVIEW
PHOTO CURTESY: STEVEMADDEN.COM
In the early 1990s, with just $1,100 in his bank account, Steve Madden started making shoes in his factory in Queens, and thus the Steve Madden brand was born. Fast forward 20-some odd years, and Madden has become one of the most successful and recognized footwear designers. His designs have been worn by millions of shoe lovers worldwide, and he has been leading the fashion industry for more than two decades. He once said, “What inspires me is what I see people wearing on the streets of the world from New York to London and beyond. I get my ideas and inspiration from pounding the pavement all over the world.” Madden spoke with W27 about his brand, his passion for his career and the everevolving fashion industry.
MTA:
BY JENNY KIM
Jenny Kim: Who was your biggest inspiration when you first started your business?
SM: Hard work, teamwork, speed and talented people. Those are the keys to our success.
Steve Madden: Phil Knight from Nike and Spike Lee
JK: What trend are you most excited about this year?
JK: Digital media have completely revolutionized the fashion industry. What do you think of their impact on the industry overall and, more specifically, on your own brand? SM: The fundamentals have changed, but it always comes down to great product. Platforms are changing, and with that, the company must keep evolving as well. JK: The fashion industry is constantly growing, and new brands are popping up all the time. How do you manage to stay ahead of the competition and on top of the trends in such a crowded market?
SM: Sneakers! More importantly, how we can add fashion to the classification of sneakers. JK: Steve Madden shoes are everywhere, and I bet you see women wearing them all the time. Do you ever stop and talk to them? How does the conversation usually go? SM: I try not to let them know who I am. I admire in silence. However, I do always ask people who makes their shoes even though I know they are Steve Madden.
BIG CHANGES
JK: How would you describe the Steve Madden girl right now? SM: Very swaggy. JK: How have you managed to stay both motivated and passionate in this industry for so long? SM: I’m naturally a little insecure but also a little competitive, so despite whatever amount is in my bank account, I always want to do well. JK: What is the best piece of advice you have for budding designers and entrepreneurs? SM: Stay out of the shoe business. I don’t need the extra competition.
TAKING PLACE SOON
BY KAYLA RENSHAW
PHOTO COURTESY:NYDAILYNEW.COM
The Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) is the bane of many New Yorkers existence. But it is about to undergo some major changes. Their infrastructure has long needed a facelift and now is the time to turn those plans into reality. While specific details of the new plan are still under wraps, and in the works, it has been confirmed by the FFDA that riders will be able to pay their fare with their smartphone or a bankcard. Lucky for us, this means no more embarrassing turnstile incidents. But the MTA cautions excitement — it may take until 2018 for the new system to be implemented and even that date may be a stretch. The approved $419 million dollar project may be concerning for some considering $2.5 billion was dumped into a subway station that experienced problems just six months after its grand opening, according to NBC New York. Water droplets that turned to icicles
during the winter months plagued many of the riders commutes over the past few months. “Water is always going to seep and water is always going to seek the lowest level and it’s always going to find its own path,” said Robert Paaswell, a civil engineering professor at the City College of New York. With the short time frame that MTA workers have to work on new projects, success is difficult without enough time devoted to making sure everything is in order. A major project such as this one has been in the works for many years. The MetroCard was first introduced in 1993 and has been very expensive to keep up with — hence the new paperless solution. As technology improves and new inventions are introduced every day, it can be difficult to keep up with the constant change. Just last year, when the MTA increased the price to $2.75 a ride, many New Yorkers were opposed to the change. The system is supposed to be an affordable way to get around but with pressure to improve the failing infrastructure, another price hike in the near future seems inevitable. With resistance coming both the MTA and riders, the MTA has found themselves in a tight situation. Over the past year, many trains have seen a tremendous rise in the number
of riders. The 2 and 7 lines in particular have seen the largest increases and over the next few months, improvements will be made that cater to both lines specifically. More trains will now run on weekends and during the evening hours - the two time frames that have seen the largest jump.
PHOTO COURTESY: SOCIALLIFECHICAGO.COM
On May 2, Anna Wintour hosted the annual Met Gala event at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. The gala marked the opening night of the “Manus X Machina: Fashion in the Age of Technology” exhibit. This annual event brings together some of the world’s most prominent fashion, business and celebrity figures and has been known as “the party of the year,” according to The New York Times.
FASHION IN THE AGE OF TECHNOLOGY BY ALENA CARAS
This year, Ms. Wintour co-chaired the gala alongside Taylor Swift, Idris Elba and Apple Chief Design Officer Jonathan Ive. The star-studded event paid tribute to the exhibit, requesting that invited guests come dressed in theme for the occasion and this year, they did not disappoint.
raised for “China through the looking Glass” where Rihanna was a guest performer.
According to E! News, the Met Gala is “the biggest night in fashion.” To build on this excitement, reporters Giuliana Rancic and Zanna Roberts from E! News critiqued looks seen live on the red carpet, giving viewers a front row seat to the prestigious event.
In the lead up to the event, head curator of the exhibit Andrew Bolton sat down with Vogue to talk about the exhibit in more detail. “Traditionally, the distinction between the haute couture and prêt-à-porter was based on the handmade and the machine-made.” Mr. Bolton added, “but recently this distinction has become increasingly blurred as both disciplines have embraced the practices and techniques of the other.” Those who attend the Gala will get a first glance at the exhibit before opening its doors to the public the following day.
We saw a f lood of metallic gowns on the red carpet. Kylie Jenner was dressed in an embellished f loor length Balmain gown, Kendall Jenner was seen in a cutout Versace and crowd favorite Poppy Delevigne appeared in a plunging, tiered silver gown by Marchesa. Other notable fashion moments included Kanye’s vampire contact lenses and embellish jacket and Zayn Malik’s armored sleeves that resembled robot arms. But behind the glamour and elegance of the gala is an important mission to raise funds for the Costume Institute. Last year, a record $12.5 million was
The exhibit manus (hand) and machina (machine) will showcase over 100 looks, some of which date back to the early 20th century.
The Costume Institute also expanded its exposure through film. ”The First Monday in May,” starring Ms. Wintour and Mr. Bolton, was shown at the Tribeca Film Festival. The film provided the audience with a personal glimpse into the inner workings of the Met Gala, and what goes on behind the scenes of the exhibit.
On the film’s opening night, Andre Leon Talley, former editor-at-large at Vogue, made a special guest appearance. Talley, who was dressed in a gold Dolce Gabbana robe, answered questions about what it’s like to attend the gala. In the panel discussion, Talley talked about a few of his favorite moments with Rihanna and Beyoncé. He also shared a personal moment; his incredible experience during his first Met Gala in 1974. Talley explained how he was standing at the bottom of the escalators the night of the gala where he saw Cher in a Bob Mackie faux, transparent, sequin jumpsuit with feathers. Talley described it as being one of the most incredible moments that he had ever experienced at the event. While the Met Gala is open to a select few, members of the museum can view the exhibit the day after the event, May 3, 2016. The exhibit opens to the general public May 5-August 15.
CHANGES AT CALVIN KLEIN BY JENNY KIM this undertaking will further solidify the brand’s positioning worldwide and pave the way for future long-term global growth.”
As for the constant delays that seem to plague the system on all ends, relief is on the way. “Contrary to the audit’s claims, the MTA has launched robust efforts to analyze and attack the root causes of delays, from increasing preventative track surveys and maintenance to deploying rapid response teams and additional staff on platforms,” MTA spokesperson Kevin Ortiz said. With these results, problems will be addressed and solved quickly. PHOTO COURTESY: WWW.POPSUGAR.COM
With tourists taking advantage of the subways and natives riding the system day in and day out, the MTA is on the right track. New York City needs a subway system that is reliable and has the best interest of the rider in mind. With these improvements, it seems as if the MTA has already figured that out on their own. But they have made promises before and the outcome has not always been a success. Hopefully they have learned from past mistakes and will get it right this time. Here’s hoping!
MAY 2016
13
Calvin Klein announced that its creative directors for menswear and womenswear, Italo Zucchelli and Francisco Costa, are departing the company after more than 10 years of excellence. Calvin Klein himself appointed Costa in 2001. He was later promoted to creative director of womenswear in 2003, when Klein retired after selling the brand to Phillips-Van Heusen for approximately $730 million. Zucchelli later joined the Calvin Klein house as menswear creative director in 2004.
The brand’s chief executive, Steve Shiffman, announced a statement thanking the two for their “unwavering commitment to the Calvin Klein brand and their accomplishments.” PVH, the parent company of Calvin Klein, said this is part of their new global strategy: “The strategy comes as part of a global evolution in the direction of the Calvin Klein brand, which began with the reacquisition of its jeans and underwear businesses in 2013. As the company continues to build itself into a $10-billion global retail sales business,
PVH has yet to name new leaders. However, the company said that it would merge both menswear and womenswear under a single team and a single director, along with other categories such as jeans, underwear and fragrance. There has been speculation that Raf Simons, former creative director at Dior, would take over when his non-compete contract ends in the summer. Calvin Klein’s big move is amongst the long and intense train of departures across the fashion industry. Simons and Alber Elbaz both resigned from Dior and Lanvin, respectively, last October. Massimiliano Giornetti left Salvatore Ferragamo in March, and Hedi Slimane recently announced that he will not renew his contract with Saint Laurent — a huge shock to the entire Kering group. Under Slimane’s leadership, the Saint Laurent house tripled its revenues in 2015. These days, finding a creative director willing to sign a long-term contract is close to impossible. If the rumors turn out to be true, many agree that Simons would be a good choice. His tendency to mix sophisticated minimalism with
current trends would be a great fit for Calvin Klein — a brand that has balanced both of these qualities since it was founded in 1968. If Simons got the job, he’d have a more-thandifficult role to fill. Dior consists of couture, ready-to-wear, accessories and cosmetics. Calvin Klein f launts more than 20 product categories, including menswear, womenswear, underwear, jeans and fragrances. Simons, who has said leaving Dior would help him attain an improved work-life balance, would be hustling more than ever in this “one creative vision” at Calvin Klein. Vanessa Friedman, fashion director and chief fashion critic at The New York Times, said future decisions made by the company could redefine New York fashion and that change is much needed and desired. Calvin Klein has remained in the “Big 3” clique for many years — along with Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan; however, nothing much has changed since the peak of American sportswear. Friedman said, “Indeed, it’s not exaggerating to say that if the fashion house picks the right person for the job (and Mr. Simons is a good idea) and supports that person, it could radically redesign New York fashion. Someone needs to.”
HAUTE FEATURE CULTURE
14
FIT
W27
15
VICKY MATHEW W27: What was your thinking behind this, your final project? W27: What is it about photography that excites you? VM: One of the things that excites me about photography is the collaboration process. The way a group of people can come together, pitch ideas and create one united idea. Seeing a shoot go from the beginning stages to the end result is always fascinating. I love that photography can be super conceptual and fine art, or simple, clean and stripped down. My work tends to be more on the commercial, fashion and lifestyle vibe.
W27: Why did you decide to pursue photography professionally? VM: My journey in photography has come a long way. I picked up a camera when I was just 15, creating my own company that concentrated on photographing and interviewing musicians. I stuck with that for a long time, and nowadays will still shoot an occasional concert, but eventually yearned to photograph people more intimately and oneon-one. I dove into the world of fashion and lifestyle photography and found my niche. Because of that collaborative process of my work and the fact that I am meeting and photographing new people constantly, I learn something new every time I am behind my camera. It is such a rewarding profession.
W27: What types of things inspire you? W27: If you were walking down the street, what would make you stop and take a photo? VM: I am constantly snapping photos on my iPhone everywhere I go. Whether it’s the colors and shapes that fill NYC’s streets or the occasional, alright pretty often, selfie c as well as an outfit that catches my eye. I am not really a street photographer, so I don’t know if I would ever wander around aimlessly with my camera. However, I do shoot primarily on location and that includes shooting all over New York City. For my planned (outdoor) shoots I usually gravitate toward clean backgrounds with complementary colors to match my subject’s clothing. But if I were to stop and take a photo, I have noticed that I enjoy taking snapshots of the sky.
VM:Other photographers always inspire me, be it a photo I stumble upon on Instagram or photographs taken by my peers. The past two years I have been heavily inspired by young women’s fashion trends. I love today’s mix of modern day and past fashion trends. And of course, the people I collaborate with and the ideas that they bring to the table inspire me.
W27: What do you love most about taking photos? VM:I love everything about taking photos! It is really fun to take a scene and create a photo that looks even more beautiful than it does to the naked eye. I love seeing my growth process and how from shoot to shoot I have gotten better at what I do. There’s not much going backwards in photography — just re-shooting to make it better and that is so amazing.
VM:I had about five different ideas that I shot and tossed away for my senior thesis. I initially wanted to do something fashion related — my normal. But after shooting it started to feel forced, I had a complete creative block. It wasn’t until midway through this Spring semester that I actually came up with an idea that I was passionate about, which is absolutely crazy and was extremely stressful! I decide to go completely out of my comfort zone, as this is my final semester and I wanted to experiment, and shoot indoors — using lights and shooting people without much clothing. My project, Permanence, to put it simply is intimate portraits of people with tattoos. After getting a cover-up tattoo I became deeply interested in the markings that people decide to permanently put on their skin. It is such a vulnerable thing to do. Usually we only see what people decide to present on the outside with clothing, makeup, etc. However, with tattoos we get a sense of a person’s mind, personality and past. When I started shooting for this project I was shooting in every which way — posed, wide, close up, standing, sitting, lying, etc. As the project continued my focus began to narrow and I started finding myself shooting in a way I never had before — overhead, cropped in and showing faceless body parts. In the end I came out with five final photos that I will be showing in the BFA senior photography exhibit. Although it is extremely different from my usual niche in photography, I am proud of this work and what it represents to me. It puts a capstone on my college career and shows the eagerness I have to learn and try everything within my craft — representing the wonderful subjects that were willing to put themselves under the spotlight for me. The majority of the subjects that I photographed are FIT students, and each one of them is an artist in
one way or another. Not only has FIT pushed me to become better at my craft, but has also exposed me to some of the most creative and intelligent individuals I have ever met. Lastly, I just want to add that my years at FIT have been incredible, and W27 has been a big part of it. While scouting campus for Style on 27 for over 10 issues, I met outstanding individuals that I may have never been exposed to otherwise — one of them even ended up in my final project! And collaborating with Dara and W27’s past editor-in-chief, Hermina, we created photographs that I plan on keeping in my portfolio for a long time. W27 is such a great opportunity for students to get involved at FIT, whether you are a photographer, writer, designer,or simply a curious person. I highly recommend you check out this impressive publication!
MAY 2016
“IT IS REALLY FUN TO TAKE A SCENE AND CREATE A PHOTO THAT LOOKS EVEN MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN IT DOES TO THE NAKED EYE. I LOVE SEEING MY GROWTH PROCESS AND HOW FROM SHOOT TO SHOOT I HAVE GOTTEN BETTER AT WHAT I DO.
FEATURE
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Daniel Nissim: What led you to study fashion design? Taja Dove: Well, originally I didn’t want to pursue fashion. I didn’t think it was an ideal industry for me. I actually was pushed by my family to study medicine. But then I eventually worked my way, by coincidence, into certain programs, and I realized I had a natural talent to sew and create garments without the basic training and what not. During my junior year of high school, I really picked it up and decided to apply to FIT.
BEHIND THE DESIGNS: A LOOK INTO THE STUDIO I NTE RV I E WS W ITH S E N I O R FA S H I O N D E S I G N E RS BY DANIEL NISSIM
TA J A D O V E
After four years of study, a student designer is ready to face the world of fashion. From draping to patternmaking, knitwear to sportswear, students have had the chance to hone their skills and find their look. One day, we may have the great fortune of wearing — or buying for you children’s wear students — one of their garments, but what about the designer behind it all. What’s their story? I sat down with some fashion design seniors to get a look behind the curtain — the designer behind the designs.
MAY 2016
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CHILDREN’S WEAR
DN: How would you describe your design aesthetic? TD: My design aesthetic is very saturated, very colorful. I cannot not use color, like I don’t do grey tones or monotone – like black and white stuff. I need some pink in it — something electric or something really bright
my silhouettes are so specific to certain bodies types, so it would be better to focus on children who don’t have curves or certain shapes to them. DN: What’s next for you after graduating? TD: After graduating, aside from interning and continuing getting more experience in the industry, I hope to pursue another degree and combine technology with fashion. I’d like to develop new ways and techniques to make sure dyeing and certain processes won’t affect the environment. I’m really into the environment as well, so I’m trying to relate everything together.
DN: What led you to study children’s wear? TD: Because of my really old aesthetic, a lot of my mentors pushed me into children’s wear because a lot of womenswear doesn’t work with the colors that I use. I use a lot of colors that don’t go with a lot of skin tones. A lot of
PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL NISSIM
Daniel Nissim: How would you describe your design aesthetic? PC: Timeless. It is important to go with the trends, but it is also important, because sustainability is so important to me, create something that isn’t going to be out of style in two years — something that will last. I like to do sportswear, but I want it to be on the high-end, luxury spectrum. DN: What would you say is the inspiration behind your designs?
PHOTO COURTESY: FASHIONSHOW.FITNYC.EDU
P E T E R C ATA N I A SPORTSWEAR
PC: It really varies. It’s so cliché, but architecture has always probably been my number one inf luence just because using the structure of architecture into the structure in my designs. But it could be anything from a piece of artwork I’ve seen or a movie I’ve seen or music I listen or something going on in my personal life — releasing any of my negative energy. DN: What led you to study sportswear? PC: Well, everyone at FIT should know that sportswear is not athletic wear. This is the most common misconception. Sportswear is ready-to-wear. So it’s not haute couture, you know like custom made, but Céline is still sportswear. But as much as I love custom clothing — because I interned for my favorite designer who was like the only American ever allowed Paris’ Couture Fashion Week,
PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL NISSIM
Ralph Rucci — I want to make something that’s slightly more accessible. I also like to be incredibly creative, so I wanted to be able to design more than just dresses. I wanted to make things that would fit a whole lifestyle.
PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL NISSIM
Daniel Nissim: How would you describe your design process?
DN: What advice do you have for next year’s seniors when it comes to preparing for the Future of Fashion Show? PC: Definitely get started as early as you can. Have a lot of confidence in what you are designing and making because your professors will have different opinions than your classmates, than yourself, than the judges. At the end of the day you have to be really proud of it because ultimately it is up to the judges what gets in. DN: What’s next for you after graduating? PC: I’m really trying to find
a job as a designer under someone for a little while, and I’m considering opportunities abroad. The hope, like everyone else, is to one day be able to try and branch out on my own, but I think it’s important that I get some more experience first and pay my dues.
Jody Lee: I usually start off with the problem that I have. From that point I kind of have to find peace in my own head so that requires me to go outside and be in nature — take my notebook with me and figure out the direction I want to go to. I like to use this analogy that helps me as a designer a lot: First, you try to figure out how to build the robot. Once you’ve got the robot down and once it’s working, from that point you try to make it smaller. And then you try to make it faster. And then you try to make it more stylish at the very end. I feel like, for me, that analogy works really well because it’s so important at the end to have a proper working garment. If you
can’t get the robot to walk or whatever, then it doesn’t matter if it’s cute or it looks fashionable or it looks cool. DN: What led you to study knitwear? JL: I had a hate relationship with knits because in my junior of high school, my very first internship was in luxury children’s wear. The designer used a lot of knits and cutting and sewing knits at that point was very difficult for me because it moves a lot, and I swore that I would never do knitwear. Then during fifth semester you learn knitwear, and I realized that I had the same exact feeling towards knitwear — that I felt frustrated with it and I wasn’t necessarily naturally good at
it. However, I felt very, very connect to it and me being bad at it definitely propelled me forward to keep going. It was definitely the difficulty and the technicality of knitwear that made me want to do it. With all the other specializations it’s more like you take what you learned from lower division and you expand on it. You do a sportswear driven path or lingerie, whereas with knitwear it’s completely starting new. You’re learning how to develop from the ground up, and your designs are based off the engineering of your fabrics. It’s a whole new process rather than just sourcing your fabrics from the garment district. DN: What’s next for you after graduating? JL: Well, I actually got a full-time offer from Abercrombie & Fitch as an assistant apparel designer, so that would be in Columbus, Ohio. I’m also waiting to hear back from grad school at Nottingham Trent University where I would be doing fashion knitwear design for a year. So I’ll see where that takes me — hopefully grad school.
J O DY L E E KNITWEAR
FEATURE
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FIT
THE CHILD BRIDE CRISIS
“DEEP-ROOTED CULTURAL AND RELIGIOUS PRACTICES ALONG WITH EXIGUOUS ECONOMIC CIRCUMSTANCES FORCES YOUNG GIRLS INTO HARMFUL, UNWANTED MARRIAGES.”
CHINA:
AFRICA:
In China, the legal age to get married is 22 for men and 20 for women. However, there is no specific penalty for breaking this law. While main cities generally adhere to it, the pervasive mindset in rural areas is quite “traditional.” Marriages there are recognized as long as there is a ceremony and banquet; official registration isn’t needed and only takes place once both parties are of age. Many parents prefer their children to tie the knot before they go into the labor-intensive world, because once they start working, it is difficult to find time for dating and finding a mate. Those with sons are especially concerned—for men, it is harder to find their wives due to the former one child policy. This is further compounded by the ongoing immense pressure to have sons as opposed to daughters, to carry on the family’s name and honor. This preference for sons has led to a gender imbalance in China’s rural areas. Latest reports show that there are 33.6 million more men than women in China. The men who are struggling to find a wife are often referred to as “bare branches.” In these rural and often poor areas, getting married early is basically a guarantee so they can avoid being bachelors in their later years. Early marriage often results in early pregnancies, which can be an additional struggle for these young couples. Photographer Muyi Xiao, who traveled for almost three weeks in the Yunnan province, which is rife with young married couples, blames a lack of sex education. One pregnant teen bride admitted to Xiao that she did not want to get pregnant until she was older. Many children in rural areas grow up without being supervised by their parents. These children who are left at home are part of China’s “left behind” generation whose parents go off to work in factory towns and highly populated cities because it is the only way to make a sufficient income. While many high schoolers in the Western world are required to take sex education classes, sex is still a taboo topic in Asia. Many don’t even know that birth control exists or that there are other options. The girls who get pregnant while still in school end up dropping out and never going back, and unfortunately, the cycle just continues to repeat itself generation after generation.
Child marriages in Africa are a bit more extreme than in China’s case. UNICEF estimates that Africa’s child brides are expected to double by 2050—from 125 million to 310 million. According to UNICEF, this year alone 15 million girls will be married before they enter adulthood. African boys are also married at young ages, but girls are significantly more affected. In Niger, for instance, 77% of women between the ages of 20 and 49 were married before they turned 18 as opposed to 5% of men in the same age group. Even in countries where getting married young is less prevalent, the same gender differences still exist. In the Republic of Moldova, for example, 15% of women between 20 and 49 were married before age 18, compared to 2% of men. While China’s young couples share similar ages, African girls are often married to considerably older men. For instance, in Mauritania and Nigeria, more than half of the girls between 15 and 19 years old are sent off to marry husbands who are 10 or more years older than they are. This is a scary example of the gender inequality that has long existed in these countries. Generation after generation continue to emulate social patterns that discriminate against girls. Child brides are most prevalent in the Saharan African region; Niger has the highest rates of child marriage in the world. There is also a considerable gap in the number of child marriage between the poor and the rich. Females in the poorer areas are two and a half times more likely to get married underage than those living in the wealthier areas. This is most likely due to the lack of education amongst poorer classes. Once married, the pressure to bear children can be great, and child brides typically end up having numerous kids to raise while still children themselves. This damages the young brides’ physical and mental health in both the short and long run. Child brides are often unable to understand or effectively negotiate safe sex since they don’t even know what their options are, leaving them susceptible to sexually transmitted infections such as HIV. In Nepal, over one third of women between the ages of 20 and 24 who married before the age of 15 had three or more children compared to 1% of women who married during adulthood. Also, child brides are less likely to receive proper medical care while pregnant. In countries such as Ethiopia,
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MAY 2016
G E N D E R F L U I D I T Y AT F I T: SAMMY RILEY MAKES FOR A P R E T T Y G I R L A N D B OY BY DARA KENIGSBERG
BY DANA HEYWARD
EACH YEAR, THE AVERAGE AGE THAT COUPLES GET MARRIED IN THE WESTERN WORLD IS RISING. YOUNG PEOPLE HAVE DIFFERENT PRIORITIES NOW THAN THEY DID JUST 50 YEARS AGO, FROM GETTING AHEAD AT WORK TO JUST HAVING COMMITMENT CONCERNS. HOWEVER, IN OTHER AREAS AROUND THE WORLD, LIKE CHINA AND AFRICA, SOME GIRLS GET MARRIED WELL BEFORE THEY ENTER ADULTHOOD.
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Nepal and Niger, women who married as adults were twice as likely to have delivered their recent baby in a healthcare facility compared to women who married before age 15. This struggle, along with the fact that these girls are not physically mature enough yet to give birth, places both the mothers and their babies at risk for infection as well as death. Deep-rooted cultural and religious practices along with exiguous economic circumstances forces young girls into harmful, unwanted marriages. Manuel Fontaine, UNICEF’s Regional Director for West and Central Africa said, “When you look at the projected numbers, it is particularly alarming to us because we know the impact on a girl who gets married before the age of 18, the impact on her health, the impact on education, the impact on the whole country.” This perpetuates the consistent poverty crisis in Africa, and yet it could be changed by focusing on girls’ rights and education. In addition, the communities in which children are married off need to come to some sort of agreement to stop this practice, which is rooted in age-old traditions that are often difficult to break. To help combat this vicious cycle, in 2013, UNICEF launched the campaign “End Child Marriage.” According to UNICEF’s Executive Director Anthony Lake, the project “will help drive action to reach the girls at greatest risk—and help more girls and young women realize their right to dictate their own destinies. This is critical now because if current trends continue, the number of girls and women married as children will reach nearly one billion by 2030— one billion childhoods lost, one billion futures blighted.”
Sammy Riley is a freshman majoring in AMC. He comes from a small town in New England where the girls are cheerleaders and the boys row on crew teams. But Riley is not one of those boys. At around 16, he started modeling, but at 5’9, he knew he would never make it as a male model. Not willing to give up, he decided to start modeling as a girl. Fast-forward three years and he has built up an exciting and eclectic portfolio. Having come of age in a society where gender-f luidity is a buzzword, Riley’s decision to go this route couldn’t have happened at a better time. He sat down with me to talk about his journey and why it is so important in today’s world. Dara Kenigsberg: How did you get started in modeling and how did it take the direction it did? Sammy Riley: I was obsessed with America’s Next Top Model as a kid. I loved the hair and makeup, and I began experimenting on myself during my free time. I started to take pictures on my own, or with close friends and I would style them, and they continued to get better over time. Eventually, I had put together some good photos to show to more professional photographers and I’ve just been building my portfolio ever since. Also, social media has been a great help with meeting other artists and getting my photos out there! DK: Does your family support your modeling choices? SR: My family is supportive of my work. In fact, everyone I show my work to is supportive of what I do. My dad honestly loves it! He shows my photos to friends and tries to trick them into thinking I’m an attractive girl! Honestly, I just find it f lattering. For
the most part though, I don’t go out of my way to show them anything unless it’s really amazing. DK: Do you think carving out an identity as a gender f luid model has a promising future? SR: I believe that gender f luidity is a great thing. There are some other gender f luid models, actors and performers, but there are not that many in the spotlight. There is a huge community out there that is unrecognized, ignored in fact, and yet it continues to grow. With that, I think it is time more of us stepped into the spotlight so that we can get the recognition we deserve. Not to mention the fact that doing so will help educate others and hopefully make them more accepting. As different as everyone is on the outside, we are all pretty much the same on the inside. However, it is often these differences that make us beautiful, so in response to your question, yes – I think there is a future in this for me. DK: What does pretty mean to you? SR: I equate the word pretty with things that are sweet and delicate. I use the word “pretty” all the time and call things that aren’t stereotypically pretty, “pretty.” I have had long hair all my life and so I used to get mistaken for a girl, well a pretty girl that is. DK: What is beauty as it pertains to gender? SR: In our society, beauty is generally determined by certain physical features. For women, having large breasts and being thin and delicate is considered beautiful, and guys that are tall with chiseled features and defined muscles are considered attractive. It’s just very limiting, and you know there are a lot of beautiful people who don’t fit those stereotypes and are not the human versions of Ken and Barbie. DK: Do gender differences matter anymore? If so, how exactly? SR: Gender differences are still a huge thing. I mean, when was the last time you saw a unisex bathroom, if ever? In fact, issues relating to gender identity as well as the entire LGBTQ community are all over the news because of the recent so-called “Religious Freedom Laws.” Also, gender f luidity is still relatively new, at least the term itself is, and people are just now starting to grasp the concept. Some people simply would like to be referred to as me, some as female, some have no gender preference – but whether he wants to be called a she or she wants to be called a he, or they don’t want to be defined in any way, adapting to these new social and linguistic constructs may take years as there are just so many people that are unaware of these things. There are
some places throughout the world that are already years ahead of us when it comes to acceptance. In Sweden, for example, the word “hen,” which is a gender-neutral pronoun, has officially been added to their language. DK: Is the character you model just a persona that emerges when you work or is the character someone that ref lects your identity off camera? SR: When I was just starting to model as a girl it was really a ref lection of who I was. I used to cross-dress every day when I was in high school, but it turned out it was just a phase. Besides, It was a lot of work to dress up every day. But I also felt like I lost touch with my masculine side and I just found that to be limiting in a way. Now, I feel I have a good balance. But I never say no when a photographer tells me to put on a dress for a shoot because I am always up for some dress up!
FEATURE
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FIT
DISCRIMINATION UNDER THE GUISE OF RELIGIOUS FREEDOM
W27
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MAY 2016
GIRLS-ONLY WEEKEND, NEW YORKER STYLE
BY KAYLEE DENMEAD AND DARA KENIGSBERG
On June 26th of last year, the Supreme Court ruled in favor of same-sex marriages after a long and conf licted battle. But the journey for LGBTQ rights didn’t end there. It seems that religious freedom bills are the new trend in the United States a year later, popping up almost as much as Stan Smith kicks on the FIT campus. The bills vary when it comes to the fine print, but all have similar content. Over the past five months CNN has reported that almost 200 bills restricting the right to equal marriage have been been proposed. Of these, about half of them use religion to justify trying to keep members of the LGBTQ community from using public services, joining groups and even buying from certain businesses.
decision, although we cannot know that for sure. Disney said it would stop filming in the state had the bill passed and other Fortune 500 companies such as Home Depot that are based in Atlanta also voiced their opposition to passage of the bill.
These religious freedom bills are causing an uproar mostly in Dixieland states such as Georgia, Tennessee and North Carolina to name a few. Each bill is threatening to limit basic human rights for transgender people under the guise of religious freedom. “These bathroom bills aren’t about religious freedom. These bills are actually ignorance manifesting itself in transphobia. It’s clear North Carolina legislators not only don’t understand what it means to be transgender but they also aren’t aware of how to back their anti-trans stance in scripture,” Eliel Cruz wrote in a piece for the Huffington Post.
In early April, Mississippi Governor Phil Bryant signed a religious freedom bill that many find discriminatory. Bryant has said that he signed the bill into law “to protect sincerely held religious beliefs and moral convictions of individuals, organizations, and private associates from discriminatory action by state government.” Many critics have come out against the bill, including Ellen DeGeneres who dedicated her opening monologue to the hate and discrimination that she feels the bill presents. The law specifically states that it protects those who strongly believe that marriage is between a man and a woman, that sexual relations are reserved for marriage, and that the terms male and female are directly related to one’s anatomy at birth.
North Carolina’s version became one of the most controversial bills yet. Known as the “bathroom bill,” but technically titled the Public Facilities Privacy and Security Act, it bans individuals from using the restroom that corresponds with a transgender person’s identity, making the struggle that much harder for those who seek acceptance in society, still others view this is as a necessary measure to preserve social norms. The bill was passed in late March, but since then 80 CEOS of major companies including Apple, Google, Yahoo, Microsoft and Marriott have urged the law’s repeal by co-signing a letter of protest sent to the governor. PayPal has also yanked its business from the state; a facility set to open in Charlotte and said to employ 400 people will not go forward. Musical artists have also added their disapproval to the mix. Bruce Springsteen, the Boss himself, cancelled a show in Greensboro after HB2 was passed. In a statement on his website, he says, “To my mind, it’s an attempt by people who cannot stand the progress our country has made in recognizing the human rights of all of our citizens to overturn that progress.” Nick Jonas and Demi Lovato, who are touring together, have also cancelled two shows there with Lovato saying in a Rolling Stone piece, “We know the cancellation of these shows is disappointing to our fans, but we trust that you will stand united with us against this hateful law.” North Carolina isn’t standing alone with a controversial religious freedom bill. Governor Nathan Deal of Georgia vetoed a bill that would have allowed faith-based organizations the option to deny services and jobs to gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender people. Deal’s decision was met with praise saying, “I do not think we have to discriminate against anyone to protect the faithbased community in Georgia, of which I and my family have been a part of all our lives.” The major businesses that threatened to withdraw from the state are rumored to have also impacted Deal’s
And Kansas Governor Republican Sam Brownback signed legislation that allows campus religious groups to restrict membership to students because of their religious convictions, meaning that they can stop members from joining if they do not share the same religious beliefs as those in the group. College campuses are already a place where students can struggle to fit in and find their place and this bill adds to discrimination.
In April, the Tennessee House of Representatives passed its own religious freedom bill. House Bill 1840 allows counselors and therapists to deny services to patients whose choices may conf lict with the religious beliefs of the counselor. Critics argue that a therapist is not supposed to let their beliefs inf luence their work, also adding that, once again, this is discriminatory towards the LGBTQ community. The religious freedom bills that have made waves over the last few weeks are not the first of their kind and they certainly will not be the last. For the LGBTQ community, this is just another form of discrimination in our country. North Carolina has many groups working to right what is wrong with the religious freedom bill, aiming to restore rights to transgender people. Beyonce, whose Formation tour kicked off at the end of April after the muchtalked about release of Lemonade, performed in North Carolina on May 3rd. Queen Bey, who is about to make a stop in North Carolina on her, “The Formation World Tour,” released a statement on her website regarding the controversial ruling. “.... We think it is important for us to bring attention to those who are committed to being good and carrying on the message of equality in this core of controversy.” She goes on to discuss Equality NC, “a local organization dedicated to securing equal rights and justice for lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and queer (LGBTQ) North Carolinians.” Beyonce is just one of the many celebrities who are speaking out on these issues.. With no end in sight, discrimination and unfair treatment of the LGBTQ community will continue to pervade our society. For now, we must look to those who are standing up against the conservative
lawmakers spewing vitriol and spreading hate, and heed their call. Whether it comes from a celebrity like Miley Cyrus or Bruce Springsteen, or a multinational corporation like ESPN, Apple or Facebook, we have to stand together on this issue and fight for the rights of those in the transgender community. As inspiring as it is for big-named celebrities to fight for this cause, people like Thomas Lewis, an 18-year old high school boy from South Carolina that happened to be born a girl, are the real heros of this story. Though he should be thinking about graduating high school, he has much heavier things on his mind as he is trying to appeal to the state legislature and Governor Dennis Dauggard (who is in favor of the bill). Speaking on behalf of all the other transgender students, many of whom have not gone public with their gender identity, Lewis explained the myriad ways the bill would be detrimental. He recently explained to CNN that the “bill makes him feel that he’s not human enough to use the bathroom with everyone else.” He added that “you can make a third bathroom by isolating me with other transgender students in a place where it’s easier to get picked on. It’s like having to go off into the problem box.” Nathan Leonard, another high schooler from South Carolina, joined a group of activists back in February while students met with the Governor to discuss the bill. Standing on the steps of the Capitol, Leonard, who is only a freshman, told CNN, “This bill directly affects me and a lot of the people that will be coming in next year. It singles out transgender individuals and forces them to use something that they’re not comfortable using and would also cost more money in South Dakota that we don’t have.” In addition to protests, the ACLU has started a petition in the hopes of changing the governor’s mind. With 83,000 signatures, they are off to a good start! If passed, the bill will undoubtedly lead to an increase in bullying because it will just stigmatize and single out the transgender community even more. There is also the matter of suicide, which has a very high rate among transgenders. This bill will very likely increase the number of young adults and even teens who resort to suicide because they can’t see another way out. Lewis did his best to explain all of this to Governor Dauggard, but is not fully confident that he was able to convince him to veto it. Lewis told CNN, “The reality of this situation is that bathrooms don’t need to change, people do.” We couldn’t agree more!
“FOR THE LGBTQ COMMUNITY, THIS IS JUST ANOTHER FORM OF DISCRIMINATION IN OUR COUNTRY.”
WITH THE SEMESTER ALMOST DONE, STRESSING OVER FINALS AND LAST-MINUTE PROJECTS IS NATURAL. BUT SUMMER DAYS ARE JUST AROUND THE CORNER, AND THERE’S NOTHING MORE RELAXING AND SATISFACTORY THAN THE ANTICIPATION OF A PERFECT GIRLS-ONLY WEEKEND.
FIT has never been a typical campus. New York City is our campus and playground, and with so many different things going on in the city everyday, it’s hard to decide what to actually do. Don’t worry, we got you covered!
FRIDAY MORNING: GALLERYHOP AT CHELSEA. Isn’t it great that FIT is located in one of the best places to have a lazy stroll with friends? Yes, the High Line and Chelsea Market are getting more crowded with tourists every day, but as annoying as that can be, they are still totally worth a visit while you are gallery hopping. There are thousands of places to look at contemporary and modern art, from small lofts to huge, all-encompassing buildings. Everywhere you turn from 14th to 29th street, on 10th, 11th and 12th avenues, you will find a gallery - all of which offering something different and exciting. You can even make an itinerary of current, closing and upcoming exhibits at chelseagallerymap. com. Some favorites are David Zwirner Gallery (525 W 19th St) and Pace Gallery (534 W 25th St).
FRIDAY NIGHT: GET MANICURES & MARTINIS AT BEAUTY BAR. If getting a manicure and a martini for just $10 sounds too good to be true, getting them with your best friends while also dancing to old-school hits will blow your mind. Beauty Bar (231 E 14th St, Manhattan) is the perfect place to hang out if you and your girls want to have a chill night of fun and high-pitched 80’s throwback singing sessions. They also feature comedy nights and “hedonistic” nights of burlesque.
SATURDAY MORNING: THRIFT SHOP IN EAST WILLIAMSBURG. First, stop by at Roberta’s (261 Moore St, Brooklyn) for some excellent brick-oven pizza (if you are going on a warm day, go to their cute outside garden). Next, hunt vintage designer pieces (or just regular ones) at some of the best thrift stores that Morgan Avenue and the surrounding streets have to offer. On any given day you can find a Proenza Schouler dress ($69) at Beacon’s Closet, Louis Vuitton tote ($25) and Brook Brothers shirt ($8) at Urban Jungle. If you are looking to spend a little more, check out the charmingly curated selection of both new and vintage
pieces at Friends, ranging from Vans shoes ($19) and Karl Lagerfeld heels ($30) to hand-made silver jewelry and enamel pins.
SATURDAY NIGHT: HAVE THE ULTIMATE BARHOPPING EXPERIENCE (ALL RECOMMENDATIONS ARE IN MANHATTAN, BUT BONUS POINTS IF YOU DO IT CROSS-BOROUGH). If you want to bar-hop like a true New Yorker, I would advise that you and your girls get dinner first (seriously, you don’t want to do this on an empty stomach). A nice but simple Italian place like Bistango (29th and 3rd Ave, encourages reservations on Saturdays) will do the trick. Then, you can literally just cross the street to Tonic East, where the first f loor is your typical sports bar, the second f loor is great for dancing, and the third f loor (your stop, if you take it) has the most amazing views of the Empire State and the Chrysler buildings. This cool rooftop bar is a nice option to start your bar crawl. Or if you are into a quieter scene, head downtown to spots like Back Room (102 Norfolk Street) or the Blind Barber (339 E. 10th Street, also located in Williamsburg). Keep in mind that both of these “speakeasies” are hard to find if you don’t know where you are going, but that is part of what makes them fun.
SUNDAY (WHENEVER YOU WAKE UP): ENJOY A BOOZY BRUNCH THAT LASTS ALL DAY. Though there are plenty of spots throughout the city that offer amazing Sunday brunch, at Felix (340 W Broadway) you will not only get great food and drinks, but the open layout and loud music make for a party you will never forget (or maybe you will, depending on how much champagne you have). Or check out Beauty & Essex for a late afternoon brunch that leads to a party at Le Souk later that night.
SUNDAY NIGHT: EITHER COLLAPSE IN BED OR START ALL OVER AGAIN… YOUR CHOICE!
HAUTE CULTURE
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TRIBECA FILM FESTIVAL
T H I S R E A L LY C O U L D B E T H E FUTU R E O F FA S H I O N BY DARA KENIGSBERG
On May 5, FIT’s annual “Future of Fashion” show made it clear just how talented students at FIT really are. The sold out, invitation-only event featured the best work of the top graduating fashion design students. The show is the culmination of months and months of planning, sewing, fittings, being mentored and critiqued. It consisted of 91 looks in knitwear, sportswear, intimate apparel, eveningwear (or special occasion) and children’s wear. The designs were judged by a panel of fashion media professionals including Ken Downing, senior VP and fashion director at Neiman Marcus, Nicole Phelps, the director of Vogue Runway, Anna Georgia Greenberg, fashion editor-at-large at Refinery 29, and many more. Hosted by the founder of Man Repeller, Leandra Medine was just one of countless fashionistas in attendance. Nicole Richie and Nicky Hilton, along with major designers like Francisco Costa, Elie Tahari, Dennis Basso and Calvin Klein, whose sizable donations every year help make the show possible, were also in the audience. As talented as this graduating class is, only the winners got to present their designs on the runway. Seniors spent their second semester working with industry insiders and critics as they designed and created their pieces. In addition to
the awards given out by the judges, the critics each pick one student to give a Critics Choice Award to. This year’s critics included Reem Acra, Phillip Lim and Nicholas Kunz among other noteworthy fashion inf luencers. They also acted as mentors and were instrumental in the design process, helping with everything from picking out fabrics to sketching and finalizing the pieces. The show kicked off with intimate apparel. It was naughty meets nice as many of the looks juxtaposed elements of lace, chiffon and tulle, with leather accents, intricate harnesses and detailed corsets. “I always love the lingerie,” Calvin Klein told WWD.com. “It was done extraordinarily well. It was a pleasure to be a part of it.” Each category had innovative pieces that utilized cool fabrics and eye-catching colors. Body-con silhouettes and barely-there knits along with sheer bodysuits that can be worn in private or public were styled in a variety of ways to showcase their versatility. It was really the kids that stole the show. Strutting down the runway, they looked like tiny adults especially when striking a pose before turning back around. Dressed in a white neoprene cape, a green fur bomber, and motorcycle jackets and vests, it was their lunchboxes that really got everyone’s
attention; they were adorned with photos of David Bowie and Prince when they were in their prime. The judges and critics all agreed that there was no shortage of talent. Dennis Basso, who was recently honored by FIT, expressed his excitement telling WWD, “I love emerging talent…. You know you will see them in the future.” It surely wouldn’t be surprising given the countless designers who have come out FIT before them. Joe Zee, Michael Kors, Reem Acra, Calvin Klein, Nanette Laporre, Ralph Rucci, Norma Kamali and even Basso himself are all alumnus. It is only fitting that 30 looks will be on display at the Neiman Marcus in New Jersey for eight days, and Downing thinks they could even be sold there. ““I thought the show was fantastic. There’s an understanding and relevance of what fashion means today. You can see those clothes hanging at retail or walking down the runway. It’s a testament to FIT and the education they give them. The students’ love of craft continues and kudos to their instructors.”
MAY 2016
R E V I E W : A U D I E N C E A W A R D , N A R R AT I V E S C R E E N I N G – F I R S T P L AC E “ H E R E A LO N E ” BY ALLISON HATCH
When I first heard that the Tribeca Film Festival Audience Award, Narrative Screening - First Place went to a movie with virus-infected zombies, I was not at all excited. I don’t fancy zombies nor films emerged in post-apocalyptic circumstances, but luckily, director Rod Blackhurst’s first feature film, “Here Alone,” pleasantly surprised me and other festival-goers - its three public viewings offered at Tribeca’s Midnight showings all sold out. Blackhurst humbly thanked the audience, mentioning that he couldn’t believe his film -- shot in what he said was a friend’s “backyard” in upstate New York -- had been shown in the same theater as where he had recently seen Star Wars. “Here Alone” is not your average zombie, survival-of-the-fittest film
in which the protagonist seems to always employ the right decisions at the right time in order to eventually lead himself and others to safety. Instead, the story follows the anti-hero, Ann, as she is left to fend for herself in the woods while being haunted by her past, offered through recurring f lashbacks. The film opens with a long shot of the surrounding trees and mountains, which becomes a motif used throughout as a reminder of Ann’s sheer inferiority when tested alone against the expanse of nature. It begins with very little dialogue, excluding the occasional f lashback, as the audience is fully emerged in Ann’s lone fight for survival. Eventually, she crosses paths teenager Olivia and her stepfather Chris, with whom she develops an estranged yet dependent relationship as they work together. As
the film moves forward, Ann, Chris and Olivia’s individual motives become more apparent, leading to a climatic test of trust and deceit. I have to admit, the scenes with the zombies were so horrifyingly scary and disgusting, many of us let out a nervous laugh in the theater (similar to what I imagine an audience seeing the “Human Centipede” for the first time would do). The premise is that a disease has infected these humans and quickly kills them off, turning them into infected zombies who attack those still alive because of an intense craving for blood. It probably sounds gimmicky or a bit like a vampire knock-off, but the movie executes its gripping scenes brilliantly simply because of how paired-down the camera work, setting and music are. You feel like you are a
part of the action. The juxtaposition of the fitful encounters with the zombies and the quiet beauty of the wooded setting, all intertwined with f lashbacks, create a cohesive story and dynamic character development as “Here Alone” explores the most raw of human emotions and instincts. The movie stuck with me for its seemingly simplistic plotline, yet thorough and clean execution, particularly under the direction of someone new to narrative cinema. And that is the beauty of the Tribeca Film Festival: a director can debut his micro-budget film -- funded through a Kickstarter campaign -- in the same theater as a Star Wars film reaching over $2 billion in the box office, but to no less acclaim.
‘SING STREET’: A BEACON IN THE BLEAK WORLD OF FILM BY DANIEL NISSIM The coming-of-age genre is, by definition, about growing up. While this may seem simplistic, in no way is “Sing Street” just a film about kids getting older. It offers hope in an age of action films with big explosions and expensive CGI. How a cast composed almost entirely of unknown actors seems to pull off movie magic is inspiring. Director and writer John Carney’s “Sing Street” is set in 1980s Dublin — a bleak economic climate with an even bleaker chance of making it big. The film starts with the protagonist, Conor (Ferdia Walsh-Peelo), finding out that his parents are taking him out of his comfortable, expensive school and transferring him to a public one. Life at his new school is difficult, with bullies, no friends and the increasingly difficult principal, Brother Baxter (Don Wycherley), who forces him to uphold the school motto: “act manly.” Hope comes in the form of a girl, Raphina (Lucy Boynton), an aspiring model. And what does a guy do to impress a girl? He asks her to be in his band’s music video. Only one problem: Conor’s not in a band.
PHOTO COURTESY: WWW.INDIEWIRE.COM
A f lurry of exploration and disappointment ensues. Conor collects all of the school’s misfits, and they try to find their sound by emulating the musical acts of the ’80s — Duran Duran, a-Ha,
The Cure and many more. Conor’s slacker brother, Brendan (Jack Reynor), acts as a sort of musical guru, introducing him to new music (homework) and pushing him to be more than just another cover band. As he says, “Rock ‘n’ roll is a risk. You risk being ridiculed.” The film has this sort of levity that easily hooks you and dares you to dream. Conor’s transformation from awkward misfit to a real man isn’t smooth. By the end of the film, he’s willing to risk it all in an insane, yet uplifting gesture. Never have I been so content with a film’s conclusion. I always like to wonder what happens to the characters after the credits roll, but “Sing Street” left me in sweet, sweet bliss. Carney’s film is a perfect little masterpiece. The cast’s inexperience was quite a surprise as their overall performance was very natural. I often cringe when it comes to bad acting and poor dialogue, but “Sing Street” has given me hope. This low-budget film is my favorite movie so far this year. In a world that continued to force Conor to “act manly,” he found a way to act like himself.
HAUTE CULTURE
THE “ GIRLFRIEND
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T V REVIEW:
EXPERIENCE BY DANA HEYWARD
”
Some of the best TV series are the ones that give us a glimpse into the lives of complex characters that we would probably never be familiar with otherwise. There was the meth-dealing science teacher, Walter White of “Breaking Bad.” The womanizing ad-exec, Don Draper of “Mad Men.” And now there’s Christine Reade, both law student and high-end escort of Starz newest series, “The Girlfriend Experience.” The series is “suggested by” the 2009 Steven Soderberghdirected film of the same name, but this reinterpretation follows Christine (played by Riley Keough), a second-year law student in Chicago who just landed an internship at a prestigious law firm. She becomes interested in escorting on the side after seeing how it benefits a close friend and fellow classmate. From that point on she enters the world of “transactional relationships” — working exclusively with aff luent clients to provide them with the full “girlfriend experience.” There’s an eerie yet seductive vibe that presides over the show from the sleek minimalist buildings to the numerous sex scenes that border on soft-core porn (this is premium cable after all.)
CONCERT REVIEW:
‘NINE TRACK MIND’ TOUR REVIEW
BY NATALIA PEREIRA
The black piano rolled onto the stage and everyone knew it was finally time for the main act — Charlie Puth — to come out and serenade the crowd. On the night of April 7, the second to last date of the Nine Track Mind Tour, the world-famous Grand Ballroom at Webster Hall was filled to its 1500 person capacity, and the sold-out crowd anxiously waited for his appearance. After a few minutes of younger fans chanting Puth’s name, the New Jersey native stepped onto his spot at the center of the stage and greeted the sea of screaming girls. Pleasing the crowd with popular radio tracks featuring Meghan Trainor and Selena Gomez, it is no wonder why this performer’s show sold out so quickly. “Marvin Gaye” and “We Don’t Talk Anymore” have been in the top pop charts for weeks in a row, catapulting Puth even further into stardom.
PHOTO COURTESY: IMDB.COM
But what’s most compelling about “The Girlfriend Experience” is that the show rarely ever takes any cliché turns. Christine isn’t tricked or forced into the escort-lifestyle nor does she solely do it for the money. She enjoys being a escort from the beginning to the very end of the series and while it’s certainly a role she’s playing, never once does the viewer feel enticed to feel pity for Christine. There’s more of a sense of empowerment because she’s in complete control of her choices throughout and is unapologetic about each one. While the story of a graduate student turned high-end escort has been done before — anyone remember “Secret Diary of a Call Girl” — Keough’s performance is what makes “The Girlfriend Experience” a totally different package. Keough is fairly new to the acting scene with a small role in the recent “Mad Max: Fury Road.” But her committed performance as Christine will make you think she’s a seasoned pro. At times, Christine’s personality hinges on sociopathic as she shows little concern for the lives she’s affecting around her. It’s hard to detect what’s real or performance with the character so at times you’re not sure whether to applaud or fear her, but you’re absorbed nonetheless. One could contend that “The Girlfriend Experience” is exploring with a narrative of how transactional relationships should be viewed in the modern world. While the show doesn’t ask you empathize with Christine or her clients, it doesn’t ask you to criticize them either. Rather it poses the much more complicated question of whether or not she should be judged at all for her line of work. While the show of course doesn’t sway you towards any specific answers it certainly creates one hell of a dialogue.
PHOTO COURTESY: NATALIE PEREIRA The singer/songwriter’s raw and genuine lyrics are very personal, and hearing them live in person was genuine side that not many artists in even more impactful than one would the industry share today. imagine. As each note resinated, After closing the show with his wellone could feel Puth’s emotions known solo track “One Call Away” pouring out, with measures of true and his notable collaboration with compassion and hard work behind Wiz Khalifa in “See You Again,” Puth each word. Being at Webster Hall that thanked the crowd for supporting night, I witnessed Puth’s true colors him on the Nine Track Mind Tour and that is what the industry lacks and made his way off stage. Puth is most nowadays. definitely an artist to watch out for! If These feelings were portrayed best in you can, I would highly recommend slower ballads such as “Up All Night” seeing him in concert - experiencing and “Suffer”, where Puth extended him live is well worth it! his singing range in tasteful falsettos and vocal runs. Being in the second row, I could see the passion Puth feels for his music just by watching his expressions.
Puth also allotted time to thank his two openers, Sophie Beem and Phoebe Ryan, who both hyped up the crowd for his sold-out performance. Doing this also contributed to Puth’s
DEATH OF A PRINCE BY KAYLA RENSHAW
PHOTO COURTESY: PLAYBUZZ.COM
An all-too-familiar tale: another world famous performer has passed away before his time. Prince Rogers Nelson, better known as Prince, died suddenly on April 21 at the age of 57. Although Prince’s death came as a shock, a few warning signs may have led up to it. After holding a concert in Atlanta on April 15, he was on his way back to his residence in Minnesota when his plane made an emergency landing in Illinois. There was reportedly an “unresponsive” passenger on the f light, later confirmed as the singer, according to NBC. Six days later, he was found dead inside an elevator of his Paisley Park Studios residence. He was reportedly suffering from the f lu, but his cause of death is still unknown. Paisley Park Studios is valued at more than $7 million and is located in the suburb of Chanhassen, Minn. The estate was not only where Prince resided, but it was also his creative escape. The compound hosted a recording studio, soundstage, nightclub and concert hall. This is where Prince could completely be himself without any restrictions holding back his creativity, hence the literal vault of unreleased recordings discovered inside the home. From the moment Prince’s death was announced, celebrities took to social media to express their grief. President Obama released a statement that began with the words, “Today, the world lost a creative icon. Michelle and I join millions of fans from around the world in mourning the sudden death of Prince.” Shonda Rhimes, Bruno Mars and Usher are a few other celebrities who took to Twitter to express their feelings. This year alone, David Bowie, George Martin, Alan Rickman and now Prince have all left their legacies behind along with millions of devout fans mourning their loss. No matter how many impactful artists we lose over the years, each one is going to hit as hard as the last. Each artist that is lost has changed our society in one way or another making it difficult to say goodbye. Prince was born June 7, 1958, in Minneapolis, a place he held near and dear to his heart throughout his career and lifetime. Both of Prince’s parents were musically inclined and introduced him to music as a young age. He started to play the piano at 7, moved on to the guitar at 13 and tackled the drums at 14. He did not receive any type of lessons for these instruments — he taught himself everything he knew. Prince would go on to get his first break in 1976 when he created a demo with a producer named Chris Moon. The demo would go on to attract attention from major recording labels such as Warner Bros., A&M and Columbia Records. At 21, Prince signed a recording contract with Warner Bros. This deal would solidify the beginning of a very fulfilling career in an otherwise cutthroat industry. Throughout his career, Prince released 39 studio albums with two of them released over the past year. “Purple Rain,” a film seemingly about Prince’s life, played a huge part in his road to success and gained him overwhelming support. He was always writing and recording new music, but due to restrictions within his contract, many of the songs he recorded would remain unheard.
A large portion of Prince’s chart-toppers came from his successful album “Purple Rain,” released in 1984. Over the course of his career, he had 19 songs hold spots on Billboard 100’s Top 10, and five of those songs went all the way to No. 1. From 1980–1999, he logged more Hot 100 entries than any other act during that time, with 44 songs making the cut. Prince drew inspiration from many notable performers such as Jimi Hendrix, The Beatles and Mick Jagger. Jon Pareles, a writer for The New York Times, described Prince as “a master architect of funk, rock, R&B and pop.” A writer for the Los Angeles Times, Randall Roberts, said he was “among the most versatile and restlessly experimental pop artists of our time.” From the wide variety of artists from whom Prince drew inf luence, it’s no surprise that he was well praised over the course of his career. In addition to his many other talents, Prince would turn out to be quite the songwriter. Madonna, The Time and Kate Bush all famous musicians who specifically sought out Prince to write for their albums. He was also the mastermind behind the all-girl group Vanity 6 and wrote its No. 1 hit “Nasty Girl.” When hearing Prince’s name, it’s hard not to think of purple, a color that represents who he was as a performer and a person. Since his death, many artists have hosted tributes lavished in the hue. Known as “the Purple One,” Prince and the color purple were one in the same. His association with the color was one of several ways he set himself apart from other artists. In the ’90s, Prince found himself in a contractual battle with his longtime record label Warner Bros. This feud led him to change his name to an unpronounceable symbol in an attempt to make a statement against his label. “It is an unpronounceable symbol whose meaning has not been identified. It’s all about thinking in a new ways, tuning in 2 a new free-quency,” he wrote in a statement released at the time. During this period, his record sales f lopped, and his fans did not accept the change. In 2000, he dropped the symbol and was back to his old self again. After living away from the public eye for a few years, Prince returned in full force in 2004 to perform at the Grammys with Beyoncé. That same year, he was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and released the widely acclaimed album “Musicology.” He went on to perform a legendary performance at the 2010 Super Bowl and earned himself a spot in the Grammy Hall of Fame that same year. Losing artists who have impacted both the music industry and society in multiple ways will always be a tough pill to swallow. It’s easy to become attached to artists who make unusual statements within the music industry. The only way to preserve the legacy of an artist as legendary as Prince is to not let his memory die and to allow his music to live on.
MONTH IN REVIEW
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HOFIT
SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO:
HUMANS OF FIT
A BRIEF LOOK AT ‘BREXIT’
BY MELISSA DE OLIVEIRA
E VA B R O W N
BY ALLISON HATCH
FINE ARTS MAJOR WHAT’S YOUR STORY PHOTO COURTESY: SAMEFACTS.COM
When Prime Minister David Cameron originally proposed holding a vote in which British citizens would vote on the future of their nation within the European Union (EU), he had no way of knowing the extent to which the debate would come to divide not only politicians, but all of Great Britain. Mr. Cameron agreed to holding a referendum after his Conservative Party’s victory in the May 2015 elections. Members of his party — commonly referred to as Eurosceptics — and the UK Independence Party (UKIP) have become more vocal in criticising Great Britain’s membership within the EU, particularly since Britain has not addressed its place within the EU since a referendum held in 1975 in which it voted to stay. The upcoming referendum will be held on June 23. “The Brexit”, or possible British exit from the EU, has created a stir in the media as citizens, businesses and government officials debate what it means for the future of Great Britain. The EU is composed of 28 countries and was created after World War II in order to protect mutual economic interests and establish cooperation between member states — avoiding another disaster or war across the continent. In 1999, the EU created the euro as the common currency, used by 19 of the countries, to further implement economic integration. The EU has emphasized security, justice and the protection of human rights among its members in order to create a more prosperous union. Aside from the euro, the EU has an open border policy established with the Schengen Agreement, which allows for 26 of the member states’ citizens to cross borders visa-free — whether as travellers or workers. The two main campaigns aimed at inf luencing British voters in the coming referendum are “Britain Stronger in Europe” and “Vote Leave.” While the reported percentage of “In” voters has been greater than its opposition for the extent of the public debate, the “Out” supporters have recently picked up steam and, for the first time, have taken the lead. The latest poll figures determined by YouGov for the Times reported 42 percent of voters choosing “out” with 41 percent voting “in”. Of the remaining figures, 13 percent said they were not sure and 4 percent said they would not be voting. Simon Jenkins noted in an op-ed for The Guardian that gender, age and political parties have not been viewed as determining factors for British citizens, but their votes will more so be “based on gut instinct.” The political and economic implications
of whether Britain stays or leaves the EU are unknown, but have stirred arguments from both sides of the issue. There are a variety of reasons behind the “In” and “Out” supporters positions in the Brexit debate — with the main issues involving immigration, business and regulations, the economy and sovereignty. In light of the recent terrorist attacks across Europe, the most cited issue regarding Britain’s place within the EU from the Vote Leave campaign has been immigration. The EU’s free movement policies have created a large inf lux of workers entering Britain, which many British citizens see as a threat to their own jobs and a strain on public services. Great Britain does not have the ability to control its borders as a member state of the EU, and with the international governing body possibly expanding as other countries seek membership, there is the potential of an even greater inf lux of immigrants. The Vote Leave supporter and British Justice Secretary Michael Gove wrote, “Because we cannot control our borders, public services such as the [National Health Service] will face an unquantifiable strain as millions more become EU citizens,” according to CNN. Meanwhile, Member of Parliament Owen Paterson has vocalized the growing sense of fear among British citizens with the limited immigration regulation. Paterson addressed the potential addition of Turkey within the EU, saying, “Turkey, led by an increasingly authoritarian regime, has a 700-mile-long border with war zones in Syria and Iraq. The implications for European and British security are all too plain,” according to CNN. The Britain Stronger In Europe campaign has criticized the Vote Leave supporters’ use of the immigration issue because they have weaker economic arguments. Former Cabinet member Lord Peter Mandelson has denounced the Brexit supporters. Mandelson argued that the Vote Leave campaign has “‘hoisted the white f lag on arguments around the economy. First the Treasury then Barack Obama demolished their f limsy arguments about trade and prosperity and so they have turned instead to their default nationalist territory of immigration,” according to City A.M. Mandelson’s position is tied to the publication of a 200-page analysis, carried out by the Treasury, on the economic implications of leaving the EU. The analysis claimed that by 2030, Britain’s GDP could be 6.2 percent lower than what it could have been, had Britain remained in the EU, according
to the Economist. Meanwhile on his recent visit to Great Britain, President Barack Obama spoke openly about his support for the remain campaign. According to The New York Times, Mr. Obama took “an unusually direct position on another country’s internal politics” while expounding upon the possible costs if Britain votes to leave while at a press conference with Mr. Cameron.
“I identify a lot with my hometown, Syracuse. I got into art at a very young age, it always felt right to me. One of my first memories is of when I was about three doing a painting. I didn’t decide that I wanted to go to college for art until the very end of highschool, because I wasn’t as into anything else as I was into art. Also I’m kind of introverted so it’s fun to do something where you don’t rely on anyone else or anything else, it’s just completely coming from you. When it comes to my artistic style I notice that my art comes out very playful, it’s usually not very serious or too moody. A lot of people have said that my stuff is airy and light, and I’m still trying to figure out what that means.”
The campaign for Britain to remain in the EU has been led by Mr. Cameron, who has argued that the benefits of staying as a member state far outweigh the drawbacks, and conversely, leaving the EU would create less prosperity than if Britain were to stay. Meanwhile, one of the most vocal advocates of Britain leaving the EU has been Boris Johnson, who is a member of the Conservative Party alongside Mr. Cameron.
PHOTO COURTESY: MELISSA DE OLIVEIRA
JORDAN STRICKL AND
Businesses based in Great Britain have already warned that a vote to leave the EU could result in less trade and investment as they could lose access to Europe’s single market. Rather than having individualized standards for each member state, the EU uses one standard — reducing red tape and tight regulations. However, this has limited Britain’s ability to control employment policies regarding law, health and safety, according to the Economist. Despite worries over the economic implications of Brexit, 110 top business leaders signed a letter to the Evening Standard expressing their support for Britain leaving the EU, according to the BBC. Rather than losing outside investment and jobs, they believe that London will be able to further “consolidate its position as the world’s largest international financial centre.” With the vote closely approaching, politicians, economists and policy inf luencers have become increasingly vocal about their position in the Brexit debate. Arguments for and against a British exit from the EU continue to roll in, as “In” and “Out” supporters use research to strengthen their arguments about the benefits and drawbacks of remaining within the EU. The overwhelming amount arguments, for and against Brexit, have created a divide amongst British citizens. But for many, come June 23, their single vote — which has the potential to alter economic and political relationships across the world — will likely come down to one thing: gut instinct.
ADVERTISI NG AN D M ARKETI NG C O M U N I C AT I O N S M A J O R WHAT’S YOUR STORY? “Well, I’m from West Philadelphia born and raised [laughs], no I’m kidding, I’m actually from California and I come from a very chill family. I had no idea what I wanted to do in life but I knew I didn’t want to do anything that was going to be boring. Somehow I ended up at FIT in the AMC program. I’m interested in things that are partly creative but partly business... basically FIT’s tagline.”
PHOTO COURTESY: MELISSA DE OLIVEIRA
WHAT’S THE MOST EXCITING THING YOU’VE DONE SINCE COMING TO NEW YORK? “Modeling! It wasn’t actually serious but I got picked to be in a Maybelline commercial and I was a hair model for Shea Moisture! The cool thing about New York is that opportunities often lay in places you don’t expect. It wasn’t like I was going on auditions and looking for modeling, some person was literally just like ‘Hey! You look like you’d be a good fit. Come model for us!’ And you get free products and money so that was fun.”
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BEAUTY BUZZ BY JORDYN FERRISS
FOUR FESTIVAL-READY BEAUTY PRODUCTS
Firef ly, Bonnaroo, Lollapalooza, Osheaga, the list of summer music festivals goes on and on. Whether you’re planning on partying hard in New York, Boston or Chicago your makeup needs to be killer. While festival fashion has been primarily focused on clothing, makeup is just as important, as it ties the whole look together. Here are four new products that you can add to your makeup bag to make your festival-face unforgettable.
MAKE UP FOR EVER AQUA XL EYE PENCIL WATERPROOF EYELINER, $21
KYLIE COSMETICS LIQUID LIP METALLIC, $18, KYLIECOSMETICS.COM
One of the newest launches from mega-beauty brand Make Up For Ever is perfect for festival season. The 20 eyeliners range from neutral to neon and are waterproof, ensuring they’ll say on no matter what weather comes your way. The brand partnered with pop singer Charli XCX for the launch, making it one of their first major celebrity endorsements. While most shades have a matte finish, a few are iridescent, making them the perfect addition to your on-point festival outfit. They retail for $21 each, or you can opt for the “Charli XCX Festival Faves” bundle which includes 4 liners for $49, available at Sephora.
Kylie Jenner has been busy pumping out new products ever since her brand launched late last year. She has since expanded her liquid lipstick line to eight colors, and added two new formulas to the mix, gloss and metallic. The metallic lipsticks come in three shades, Heir, Reign, and King K. While the shades are pretty neutral, their metallic sheen gives them a unique look. If you want to keep your festival makeup minimal but f lashy, these liquid lips are a must-have. The hardest part will be getting your hands on them, they always sell out within minutes of being launched. Happy hunting!
PHOTO COURTESY: SEPHORA.COM
PHOTO COURTESY: KYLIELIPKIT.COM
PAT MCGRATH LABS SKIN FETISH 003, $72, SEPHORA.COM
URBAN DECAY ALICE THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS COLLECTION, $18/$60
Pat McGrath teased us with her own makeup line late last year and she has definitely delivered. Her must-have pigments have been breaking the internet, and now it’s her highlighter’s turn. Coming in two shades, nude and golden, the Skin Fetish 003 kits come with a double-ended highlighting stick, a pressed powder, and a buffing brush. This is all housed in a f lashy iridescent sequin filled bag in extravagant Pat McGrath fashion of course. The products are extremely versatile and can be worn wet and dry, making you glow from the first artist of the day to the last. They will be available at Sephora May 10th.
Urban Decay’s latest collection is perfect for festival season; full of bold and versatile colors. The limited edition set consists of an elaborate eyeshadow palette and unique lipsticks inspired by the sequel to Disney’s Alice in Wonderland, Alice Through the Looking Glass. While the movie isn’t being released until the end of the month (May 27th), the collection is available now at UrbanDecay.com. The palette has a good mix of crazy colors and neutrals, making it the perfect one-stop-shop palette for festival season. The lipsticks are unusual but will definitely make a statement, with a deep navy and bright purple in the lineup.
PHOTO COURTESY: SEPHORA.COM
FOUR BEAUTY BOOKS TO READ OVER SUMMER BREAK
PHOTO COURTESY:LISAELDRIDGE.COM
FACE PAINT: THE STORY OF MAKEUP BY LISA ELDRIDGE Makeup artist Lisa Eldridge is known worldwide for her popular Youtube channel which has over 1.4 million subscribers. Her resume also boasts celeb clientele such as Emma Watson, Kate Winslet, and Cara Delevingne. She currently holds the position of Global Creative Director at Lancôme, giving her superstar status in the makeup world. It only seemed fitting that one of the most inf luential makeup artists in the world release a book, and Eldridge did just that in October 2015. Face Paint: The Story of Makeup instantly became a New York Time’s Bestseller, and was received with critical acclaim. If you’re interested in the history of beauty, this book is for you. Unlike many beauty books, Facepaint isn’t a how-to manual, but more of a textbook for the class History of Makeup 101.
PHOTO COURTESY: URBANDECAY.COM
School is out and that means you now have a lot more free time than you’re used to. If you’re looking for something to do this summer on those lazy days you feel like lounging by the pool, why not read about beauty? This isn’t your typical assigned summer reading, these books are full of information, inspiration, and of course, makeup. To fill your W27 Beauty Buzz void over the summer holidays, here are 4 beauty-centric books to hold you over until next semester.
PHOTO COURTESY:AMAZON.COM
MAKING FACES BY KEVYN AUCOIN Kevyn Aucoin is one of the most inf luential makeup artists of the 1980s and 90s, and up until his death in 2002 he was admired for his work on various celebrities and campaigns. In 1997, he released his second book, Making Faces, which became a “bible” for makeup artists and lovers across the world. Although the book is almost 20 years old it is still a staple in many artists book shelfs, and is often referenced for its fundamentals of makeup application. Kevyn’s own beauty brand has been expanding tremendously in the past few years, proving that the legacy of the one-ofa-kind artist lives on even 14 years after his death.
PHOTO COURTESY:NARSCOSMETICS.COM
MAKE UP YOUR MIND/MAKE UP YOUR MIND: EXPRESS YOURSELF BY FRANÇOIS NARS Most makeup lovers are likely acquainted with high-end beauty brand NARS, but what they may not know is that the man behind the brand, François Nars. Nars has released several books since the brands conception in 1994. Two of the most well known books are Make Up Your Mind, and it’s sequel, Make Up Your Mind: Express Yourself. Both books include before and after photos of models and regular people in signature NARS makeup looks. All photos are taken by Mr. Nars himself, as is the makeup. If you’re interested in learning technique from one of the world’s most famous makeup artists, then head on over to a NARS boutique or narscosmetics.com to pick up a copy. While you’re there check out his other books, Faery Lands: Tahiti, X-Ray and 15X15, all featuring photographs taken by François.
AVOIDING THE “SUMMERTIME SADNESS” BY BREANNA LEUNG
As the school year comes to a close, summer is almost upon us. That means you’ll start to witness the Starbucks Frappuccino epidemic as well as the frightening reality of looking like Patrick Star from SpongeBob. Yes, I’m sure we’ve all stocked up on summer attire and have gone over endless ideas regarding how you are going to spend the next few months, all of which is fun and exciting. But before you dive into the deep-end, beware of the “Summertime Sadness,” Lana Del Ray’s bleak look at summer. Everyone imagines that perfect glowing, soft skin and f lawless, wavy beach hair, but in reality we get mosquito bites and sunburn. So to avoid being disappointed, here are a few tips to enjoy the season without contracting the summertime blues. One of the most annoying aspects of life under the sun are those pesky mosquitoes that just won’t give up; you can be in a room full of people, yet you seem to be the target with an all you can eat buffet sign pointing right at you. Not only are they annoying, buzzing around your ears constantly, but they also carry diseases such as the West Nile virus and the Zika virus, a growing pandemic. When going outdoors, try wearing light colored and loose fitting clothing to prevent sweating — hats and long sleeves are also strongly advised. When it gets warmer, most people dive into a nearby body of water and think that they will be safe from the pesky insects, however water is the perfect place for mosquitoes to breed, so remember to drain sources of standing water, including pet bowls, garbage bins, pools, etc. Last but not least, the most effective way to get them off your backs, literally, is using mosquito repellent — one spritz and you’re good to go! When at the beach, everyone wants that golden bronze skin, but sadly most of the time we end up looking like Donald Trump. The sun’s UV rays are at its peak from 10AM to 4PM, which is the prime time for most of us night owls to come out of the dark. To avoid roasting, wear sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher, protect your eyes, wear hats and stay in the shade. If you prefer a more vintage approach, parasols could be an option as well. Whether you’re out at the beach or the only exercise you do is surfing the web, many of us tend to forget the importance of staying hydrated. In many cases, as college students we’re so caught
up with our workload that we tend to forget to take care of ourselves. In return we end up looking like the cast of ‘The Walking Dead.” Heat exhaustion is one of many problems we face when exposed to high temperatures — symptoms include dizziness, headache and shortness of breath. There are many benefits to staying hydrated such as healthier skin and hair, not being made fun of by your friends for being “thirsty” and not dying — the greatest benefit of them all. When you hear the call of the ice cream truck as it circles your neighborhood, you know that summer’s around the corner. Take a dive and live out loud—make it a summer you’ll never forget. Remember to stay safe, sassy and stylish!
FIT SPEAKS
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KIM KARDASHIAN’S COULD ACTUALLY HELP WITH THE CONSTRUCTION OF
W27
MAY 2016
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HOW TO SPEND FOUR YEARS AT FIT BY DANA HEYWARD
BY CATERINA NICOLINI
“...TWO WORDS THAT HAVE OVERPOPULATED THE INTERNET.”
PHOTO CURTESY: CELEBUZZ.COM
Kim Kardashian: two words that have overpopulated the internet. A person we either hate, or love. In my case, I have no words to describe my feelings—perhaps because of her actions. Sometimes they scream feminism and sometimes self-absorbed-narcissist-onthe-verge-of-ridicule. Yet for almost a decade now, we continue to see the K-Clan grow and expand for reasons we continuously question. This speaks to the detriment that consumerism and social media continues to mask our society and makes me doubt whether or not I should be proud at all. The point I’m trying to make is not about the Kardashian fame frenzy, rather something deeper that lurks behind their actions—their vulgarity and power. For the past few months we have all probably come across nude selfies of Kim on our Facebook, Instagram and Twitter feeds with a caption that says, “When you’re like I have nothing to wear LOL.” Thousands, if not millions, of people have reacted with such negative passion. Her intentions behind the photograph have sparked several debates about feminism amongst my friends, her followers and mostly, her haters. The topic being discussed here is whether Kim is continuing to aid in the objectification of women in modern society by exposing herself in the “wrong” way. Kim Kardashian is not related to me or anyone I know. I wonder why, it is that her decisions have come to affect other women in the present, especially the self-proclaimed feminists. As far as I’m concerned, a feminist woman knows her place, how much she’s worth and isn’t easily shaken up by a nude picture of another woman—no matter how famous she could be. Yes, it is true that famous people inf luence us in many ways. However, a nude photograph of Kim Kardashian should by no means convince more people that women should be treated
PHOTO CURTESY: MTV.COM
as sexual objects. Seriously, if I were to post a nude selfie, claiming that I solely want to expose my sexuality and essence, just like Kim Kardashian did, the only backlash that I’d get from this situation would be that of my parents sending me back home. Because guess what, I’m not Kim Kardashian and people don’t secretly hate me for being famous out of nowhere, so they have no reason to feel that I’m brainwashing people into objectifying women. The only reason that Kim Kardashian’s nude pictures have received so much attention is due to the hatred that people already have against her—nothing to do with the objectification of women. I sincerely believe that Kim had no other intention than to express the love she has for herself because that’s just how she is. Although, side note, whoever has that many followers on Instagram and stands straight up confident with their body is basically my idol. The objectification of women may also develop from people’s emotional insecurities, which serve to drive the disrespect the “weak sex” in an attempt to feel better about themselves. Unfortunately, there is not much we can do about the sad lives of others, yet there is one thing we feminists can do: not give a damn. I wish to express that to me, the term “feminism” is only fulfilled when a woman manages to entirely respect herself. By this, I’m talking about knowing that she has the liberty of doing anything and everything whilst remaining comfortable and secure. In other words, to stand up to whatever she feels like standing up to. Nobody knows Kim Kardashian, and by any means what she’s really feeling or thinking when she posts these nude selfies. So why are we wasting our energy blaming her for other people’s insecurities and claiming that she’s the one behind it all? Let’s stop degrading and calling out others for having the right to post
whatever they want on social media—that’s what the “unfollow” button is for. Women have cultivated this “modern” idea that females have to look, feel, talk, eat, walk and even dress like men nowadays. This is bullshit to some, (like Kim Kardashian), yet conforms many people’s beliefs. As a feminist, I demand respect, and I’m sure Kim Kardashian does too. We must forget about the idea that someone else’s actions will determine the standard to which we live up to in the present. We can sometimes choose to accept the treatment we receive and we can decide whether or not we will let some idiot’s degrading, anti-feminist mindset affect our emotional stabilities. My final thought on this “debate,” in which many celebrities and people have wasted energy arguing about—guilty as charged—is that Kim Kardashian’s photos have been given some meaning that they never had in the first place. We need to stop blaming others for gender inequality issues and begin to effectuate the changes that we want to see in our own lives. If we begin to live up to what we preach, we will truly be able to battle for gender equality. Social media can’t bring us down as long as we don’t let it. Quite the opposite, we can grow from that discomfort—learning to become better individuals and more importantly, better women.
PHOTO COURTESY: DANA HEYWARD
Arrive in your best outfit. Probably something that you’d never wear back home, but it feels appropriate because you’re at the Fashion Institute of Technology now. The “fashion” part reads more like an obligation than an option, and you oblige with heels in the daytime and dresses that should only be worn during the nighttime. But little do you know that over the next four years, loose fitting black and neutral get-ups will fill your closet and your chipped Forever 21 pumps end up in a donation bin. Be naive. Be very naive. Expect FIT to be this weird hybrid of “The Devil Wears Prada,” “Sex and the City” and “Gossip Girl” converted into the college experience. Learn that just because a train symbol is the same color doesn’t mean they all go the same way. Learn to avoid promoters and “promoters” at all costs. Come to the conclusion that the Meatpacking District is a lot more fun when you’re actually of legal age. Learn the hard way that the freshman 15 was not just a myth that you read about in Seventeen Magazine once. Start to run up and down Chelsea Piers
until you can’t bear the thought of another chicken parm panini from the dining hall. Realize that running is the bane of your existence. Tell anyone who will listen about how you can’t wait to go home and “get a break from the city.” Go home and quietly think to yourself about how much you can’t wait to get back to the city. Over Thanksgiving Break, have relatives ask you if you’re going to be on “Project Runway.” Laugh it off. Have them ask you’ve met Anna “Winter” and if you’re going to work at Vogue. Laugh it off again, but this time not as nicely. Be broke. Be very broke. Get a job in retail because you think: “This will be easy. This will be fun.” And also because you realize that paying for 2 Bros pizza in quarters and dimes everyday is not the struggle you want anymore. But come to find out that retail jobs are more soul-crushing that you could have ever imagine. Consider that a food service job might be better. Find out that no -- it’s way worse. Talk about internships with your peers like it’s a competitive sport.
“Where are you interning?” becomes a catchphrase but also the beginning of a interrogation. Make FIT Internship Center becomes a second home just to settle on an internship that wasn’t exactly your “dream.” But you learn at this internship despite the occasional grunt work. There’s even a real-life Miranda Priestly-esque boss, deathstare and all. Have all-nighters become a normal occurrence, whether it’s finals week or not. Wear your dark circles as battle wounds and let your raggedy pullover become a uniform. Wonder when’s the last you’ve consumed something that wasn’t coffee. Exchange how many hours of sleep you got the night before with your peers. Get a odd sense of satisfaction when you find out you’ve gotten the least. Get smart with your money. Try not the Uber everywhere and become a self-proclaimed sample sale queen. Learn that going out to eat is fun, but not living paycheck-to-paycheck is even funner. Come to the conclusion that the fashion industry just isn’t for you
and make other plans. Make a lot of plans. Pace over these plans. Cry over these plans. Consider just about every creative industry. Art, tech, and food are all thoughts that f lutter your head. Realize that plans don’t always work out. Consider packing up and moving to Cancun after reading a Refinery29 article that makes it seem totally plausible. Then remember that you’re still broke. Complain about FIT. Complain about the course load. Complain about your major. Complain about the students, the teachers and everyone in between. Then realize that the good outweighs the bad and conclude that you can’t imagine spending four years of your life anywhere else.
STYLE ON 27
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STYLE ON 27 T I M E F O R B OY S
JEREMY FRISTENSKY - FD
JINWOO SON - FBM
JACOB LAURINO - AMC
VANTUM NOIR - PERFORMANCE ATHLETIC FOOTWEAR
SUK HO -FD
RIKUYA HAYASHI -FD
B Y: C A R M E N L I
Since we always talk about girls, it’s time for the boys, or let’s say MEN. Men in FIT are as stylish and creative as girls. As the warmth of spring approaching to NYC, guys in campus got break from the winter and have a breath of spring of their clothing. From formal GQ chic to swaggy street style, these guys have their own reaction to the weather and fashion. On-trend bomber jacket with a pair of dark jeans; black sweater with a khaki trucker jacket, every look represent a unique lifestyle of young spirit. It’s also exciting to see such fascinating diversity and multi-culture of fashion expression in our school.
LEVI HOWELL -FBM