VOLUME 44 | ISSUE 7 | APRIL 2012
BEAUTY BUZZ BRAD GORESKI MS. FIT
THE BODY ISSUE CHARLOTTE RONSON’S WEB FASHION INSTITUTE OF SEX
#SPRINGISHERE
MASTHEAD Taisa Veras @taisaveras Editor-in-Chief Sarah Dill @sarah_dill Caroline Nelson @carolinenel Deputy Editors
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Fernanda DeSouza @fernpop Executive Editor/Culture Editor Georgi Dwiggins @georgidwiggins Richard Gilmartin @richg8191 Nicole Tan Venus Wong @fille_fatale Senior Editors Keely-Shea Smith @keelysheasmith Managing Editor Alyssa Kyle @alyssakyle8 Copy Editor Megan Venere Treasurer W27Newspaper.com
Photograph taken by Armah Jones
Mollie Yarsike @molbol422 Community Manager Advertising Jessica McClintock @jesssabellaa Advertising Promotions Manager Art Kári Emil Helgason @kariemil Art Director Christina Garcia @christinaa_g Senior Designer Camilla Mayer @camsterrr Photo Editor Armah Jones Benjamin Spell Jacquelyn Clifford Photographers Contributors Francesca Beltran Elizabeth Cross Justine Fitch Ryann Foulke Nicole Loher Dianna Mazzone Oceane Mercadal Marissa Mule Kelsey Panicco Terron Richardson Thomas Noble Daysha Rodriguez Zachary Rosenbaum Hermina Sobhraj Madeleine Thompson Samantha Vance Alessandra Della Vecchia Ayana Bryant -Weekes Caroline Whiteley Desmond Zhengs
At FIT we’re all so busy that it’s easy to forget to treat our bodies well on a daily basis. Recently, I have been trying to become healthier in sustainable ways, by either cooking my own food, running outside, or packing my lunch. However, I confess that I did try the juice cleanses, the gym memberships, the expensive lattes, and forgetting to drink enough water...we all have done it. As finals approach, let’s not forget to treat our bodies well both physically and mentally. This month’s “What the Health” column (p.8) has great tips on how to eat foods that will not only do good internally, but also externally. When it comes to exercising, we found that yoga was the top choice among FIT students (p.13), which helps the mind relax during this stressful time in the semester. In addition, we created a W27 workout mix filled with great, upbeat songs you can play during your workout. An innovative addition to this month’s issue is the beauty insert, which runs from pages B1-B8, an
issue in itself filled with informative Q&As with industry experts, product reviews and a beautiful photo shoot styled and photographed by our photo editor Camilla Mayer. Throughout the past three issues, I have noticed a progression in the “FIT Speaks” section and would like to point out that students are using that space to speak up and honestly express how they feel about current world affairs. Ryann Foulke’s reflection on how she found love in London (p.20) is raw, similarly, Samantha Vance’s depiction of the eating habits in France (p.22) also shows a realistic approach to the topic. Let’s not forget: treat your body well, it is there to support you, and it needs your support too. Cheers,
John Simone Editorial Faculty Advisor Albert Romano Advertising Faculty Advisor
APOLOGY: W27 apologizes for the mistakes that occurred in the submitted text for candidates JuJu Peralta, Miriam Somorin, Augusta Falleta and Caleb Poling in the recent FITSA Election Issue. W27 would also like to congratulate the winners of the elections, the Fall 2012 FITSA Executive and Programming Board representatives, who will be highlighted in our upcoming May issue.
W27 IS PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PLEASE RECYCLE YOUR COPY AFTER READING.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS On The Block 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 9 9 10 11
Welcome To The Board Room: New FITSA Board Opens Up Opportunities For Next Year Ms. FIT Post Show Glow Julie Powell On Her Literary Journey The Meaning Of Success for African Americans in the Industry Mod To Bohemian Madness: The Youthquake! Exhibit Born to be Brad ED2010@FIT Hosts Focus on Features Panel Joe Zee Gives Insight to Students Faculty Spotlight: Helen Feygin What the Health? Q&A With Assistant at Weight Watchers Magazine: Katerina Gkionis Sustainability Corner Live Like a Rebel, Dress Like A Prince Future Mode: Jack Burns Staff Picks
Dear Industry 12
The New It-Bag: The Cambridge Satchel
Beauty Buzz Special Edition Insert B-2 B-3 B-3 B-4 B-4 B-5 B-6
Ready For Touching: Reviewing Nivea’s PDA Kit The Allure of a Beauty Editor Cindy Barshop, Completely Bares All The Next Wave of SPF Products for Women Industry Spotlight: Bethany Brill Charlotte’s Web: A Fashion Designer’s Take on Beauty Beauty Feature: Polished Pastries
Body Feature 13 13 13 14 14
Fashion Institute of Sex Favorite Gym Classes At FIT Shaping Into Intimate Apparel at FIT The Right Amount of Tanning From Philosophy to Self-defense
Thread Account 15 15
Drawing the Dream Michael Bastian
Haute Culture 16 16 16 17 17 17 18
Book: Fashion & Sustainability: Design for Change Book: Why Men Love Bitches Music: Mr. Oizo Film: Marley Art: Fuse Gallery The City Skinny: Aerial Hoop Month in Review
FIT Speaks 19 20 20 21 21 22 23
Reply to: “Would You Date: The Fashion Student” You Never Know Where the Night Might Take You London Calling: To the Faraway Towns The Skinny on Skinny A Perspective on America’s Body Image Mode de Vie Francais Style on 27
ON THE COVER Fashion designer Charlotte Ronson opened the door to her apartment for W27 in an exclusive photoshoot with contributing photographer Jacquelyn Clifford.
ON THE BLOCK
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Welcome to the Boardroom:
New FITSA Board Opens Up Opportunities for Next Year By Dianna Mazzone If you’ve ever felt as though you’ve had “big shoes to fill,” then you can certainly empathize with the newly elected members of FITSA’s Executive and Programming Boards. For one month, incoming officers will shadow those currently holding the positions they will take over in the 2012-2013 academic year. New members will sit in on meetings, allowing them to experience firsthand the proceedings and policies of our student government. And with many newcomers set to join each board, this experience will surely prove invaluable. “It’s a different dynamic every year,” said the current FITSA President Samantha Kloeckener, “It’s exciting because it means we’re reaching the student population and that they want to become involved; it brings a different perspective.” Despite the competitiveness for many executive board titles, the positions of Secretary, VP of Development, and VP of Commuter Affairs remain unoccupied. For those still interested in becoming involved with FITSA, these vacancies mean the opportunity to apply for these
integral leadership offices. “We’re going to work hard to fill these positions,” said Kloeckener. “It’s obviously very important to have a full board.” In the coming weeks, fliers, posters, and school wide e-mail notifications advertising the availability of these positions will be circulated. The executive board and student council will then review applicants. However, before the sitting FITSA Board members step down at the close of the semester, there is another highly anticipated task at hand: planning and producing the largest event of the school year, the annual FIT Block Party, being held on Saturday, May 5th. Needless to say, it will certainly be a Cinco de Mayo to remember, thanks largely to the dedicated, hard working FITSA Board members!
Ms. FIT Post-Show Glow By Richard Gilmartin
Two contestants of the Ms. FIT pageant
FIT’s very own drag show, Ms. FIT, was greeted this year with open arms by the students, whom celebrate diversity. This year’s pageant featured contestants Sasha Blowmeay, Ms. Scarlet Envy, Miss Perry Puchi Jorr, and Ms. Vanessa Latrell. The pageant, which featured an opening act, a talent competition, drag trivia, a dating show segment, and a miss congeniality segment also featured special guest judge Ongina, who was a contestant on RuPaul’s Drag Race as well as the host, Jason Andors, who has been featured on Comedy Central. This year’s winner, Sasha Blowmeay swept the competition away, performing a stunning dance to Rihanna’s “Skin” as well as “Birthday Cake” and finished off by winning the dating game. The rest of the contestants dazzled the crowd by performing songs by Britney Spears, Nicki Minaj, and Beyoncé and last year’s winner, Ms. Gammaray, performed an interpretation of Black Swan and tap danced. Between the provocative dance acts and the Andors’ uncomfortable, yet hilarious masturbation jokes, the
enthusiasm of the crowd was incomparable to that of any other, showing that here at FIT we truly are a united community.
Sasha Blowmeay is pictured crowned as the winner of Ms. FIT. Photo courtesy of Sasha.
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Julie Powell on Her Literary Journey
Mod to Boho Madness: The Youthquake! Exhibit
By Caroline Nelson Julie Powell stood on stage detailing the moral and culinary complexities of lobster murder while students and professors alike laughed and cringed with her. On March 8th, the bestselling author of the memoir turned movie, Julie & Julia, and Cleaving: a Story of Marriage, Meat and Obsession, read an excerpt from her first book and answered some questions about food and life. The author, with her green-tipped brown hair, draped brown leather jacket, and indigo skinny jeans, finished her reading, she regaled the audience with interesting and often hilarious stories about her experience of writing her blog, “The Julie/ Julia Project.” She also discussed reactions to the book by Child’s family and editor, the film based on her book, and her second memoir which is currently working on. Though she studied fiction writing in college, Powell explained how her current literary voice was shaped by her time as a blogger in 2002. “It was really pivotal for me in terms of exposing myself early on,” she said, about how she wrote about her life with such transparency online. She also spoke about the impact of online content today and the potential to profit from it, but added “you kind of
have to remain innocent in a way,” since the search for success can diminish the originality of content Her second memoir, Cleaving, which chronicled her time as an apprentice in a butcher shop and her marital troubles, was also discussed. She said it was written in part to explain to her readers who: “tended to get very personally involved in my life” that the marriage so lovingly described in the first book wasn’t as perfect as it seemed. “It’s kind of about when good marriages go haywire and also about cutting up animals,” she explained. The reading and Q&A session presented a look at an unexpected success story and the challenges that accompanied it. Gina DeFelice, a second semester Communication Design student from Rochester, New York said, “I thought it reflected well on our school to invite a successful writer, going beyond the obvious interests of FIT students. Writing is really important and it would be great to be exposed to more authors in the future.”
The Meaning of Success for African Americans in the Industry By Daysha Rodriguez February marked Black History Month and The Education Opportunity Program at FIT hosted an event titled, “The Meaning of Success for African Americans in the Industry.” Students and faculty came together to celebrate African Americans who have conquered obstacles and succeeded in their field. The focus of the event was on “Strategies for Industry Longevity” which focused on topics related to how to make it in the real world. Although the program mainly targeted African Americans, it discussed topics that anyone from any background, gender, or race could relate to. Each panel member took some time to talk about their journey through the industry and the challenges they faced not only because of their race, but also their gender. Panelist Pattie Y. Carpenter, President/Creative Director, Continuum Home, Inc. and Carpenter + Co., was one of the most inspiring women on the panel. When she was asked what are some key factors to success, she stated “Be the best you can be at what ever it is you chose to do. If you’re in a more creative field, learn the business side. Always be professional. Use internships to your advantage- it’s always best to find someone who has succeed in the career you are seeking and follow in their footsteps.” Carpenter also spoke about the how being a woman in a male dominated industry motivated her to be at
the top despite society’s stereotypes about women in power. Jim Viola, VP, Learning and Development, Sleep’s the Mattress Professional, has done an excellent job at promoting diversity in the luxury field among brands such as Saks Inc. and Lord and Taylor. He says it’s important to ask yourself three basic questions in order to strive to be the best and portray a positive light to your work, “What am I doing? What can I do better? What can I do different?” Sandy Baker has been recognized by the National Jeweler magazine as one of the top 100 American jewelry designers. Her piece of advice may resonate with the many students at FIT currently in the Art and Design majors. Baker said, “design is a very singular activity, but you need to know how to transition that and connect with those working around you. Everything in life is about making the right connections.” The stories told by the panelist about issues with racism, gender discrimination, and integrating ethnic variety into the industry made the audience gasp, open their minds to new ideas and admire these leaders. They have paved the way for the next generation to come into their respective industries confident, determined and ready to make change.
APRIL 2012
By Hermina Sobhraj
Youthquake! The 1960’s Fashion Revolution, was on view from March 6th-April 7th. Described by Vogue as an “eruption of the young in every field,” Youthquake became the name of the fashion revolution that made the youth the new arbiters of 1960s fashion. The exhibit, surrounded by walls painted with fluorescent shapes, displayed pieces that reflected the cultural change of the tumultuous decade during this revolution. The exhibit was sectioned into four main fashion groups of the 60s: High Fashion, Mass Market, Boutiques and Hippies. It also featured a special section named “Fashion Goes Pop,” which showcased pieces illustrating the influence of rock and roll music during this time era. Beginning with High Fashion, the exhibit displayed three pieces from Andre Courreges, Ruben Torres, and Yves Saint Laurent. Courreges’s bright orange pants ensemble and Laurent’s unisex tunic embodied youthquake ideals by breaking down gender roles. Likewise, Torres’s Mod-inspired men’s suit incorporated a striking animal print, another motif of the revolution. These pieces were part of ready-to-wear lines that were developed by fashion designers in order to attract a younger, fresher audience. Cheap materials and straightforward silhouettes allowed youthquake styles to permeate the mass market. The Puritan Fashion Corporation and Scott Paper Company collaborated with designers such as Betsey Johnson and publications like
Paper dress with photograph of Bob Dylan by Harry Gordon, 1968 courtesy of The Museum at FIT.
Seventeen^ magazine to promote new lines embodying youthquake trends, such as disposable dollar bill dresses and psychedelic patterned vinyl dresses. Boutiques, described as “colorful, dynamic, and pulsing with music,” played a large role in developing a new, more youthful, shopping experience. Pieces from influential boutiques like Biba in London and Paraphernalia in New York were displayed to show the cutting-edge techniques used in youthquake fashion. Biba’s narrowly cut jacket used straight grey and white lines to create a slimmer silhouette—a fashion trend among youthquakers. In 1967, Mod clothing was replaced by pieces influenced by the hippies’ free-loving, eccentric style. Hippies used natural and ethnic materials, such as plastic and feathers, to make their clothing. On display were three distinguished pieces, including a Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo’s ensemble. It blended elements of suede, Native American feathers and shells, and a patterned cotton skirt to form the ultimate hippie-styled get-up. Designers such as Sant’ Angelo quickly replaced their mod clothing lines with bohemian garments. Guided by two leading subcultures of the sixties, the Mods and the Hippies, the youthquake rejected societal traditions and allowed the development of a new, powerful and influential client: the youth.
ON THE BLOCK
BORN TO BE BRAD By Mollie Yarsike
BRAD GORESKI ZOOMED TO SUCCESS AFTER HE APPEARED ON THE RACHEL ZOE PROJECT ON BRAVO, AS RACHEL ZOE’S ASSISTANT. NOW, GORESKI IS ON HIS OWN. HE’S A CELEBRITY STYLIST AND HAS HIS OWN SHOW HIT TV SHOW IT’S A BRAD, BRAD WORLD ALSO ON BRAVO. ASIDE FROM HIS HECTIC SCHEDULE THAT INCLUDES TRAVEL, DRESSING CELEBRITY CLIENTS FOR AWARD SHOWS, AND BEING THE BRAND STYLIST FOR KATE SPADE NEW YORK, HE ALSO DECIDED TO WRITE A BOOK,BORN TO BE BRAD: MY LIFE AND STYLE, SO FAR. THROUGH THIS BOOK HE HOPES TO HELP OTHERS WHO ARE TRYING TO GET INTO THE FASHION INDUSTRY AND TRYING SUCCEED IN THE FIELD. Mollie Yarsike: What’s your book about? Brad Goreski: Well, my book is about fashion obviously, and it’s also a very in-depth look at my life. You know, it really talks about the obstacles that I’ve faced in my life and how to go about achieving your dreams and your aspirations and overcoming those obstacles in order to get what you want in your life.
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MY: Fashion week was only a month ago. What was your favorite show that you attended? BG: There were so many! I loved Prabal Gurung, I loved Oscar de la Renta, Zac Posen. There were so many good collections this season. MY: What are your three top must haves for men and three top must haves for women?
BG: They actually kind of all go together for men and women for me. Polka dots, bright colors, and then there was also a shift from really bright colors to more romanticism and femininity with like a macaron type palette of pastels. So we’re starting to see that transfer into the fall/winter collections as well.
MY: Do you prefer LA or NY?
MY: What made you decide to work with Kate Spade out of all the other designers you could work with?
MY: You referenced Whitney Houston at certain points throughout your book, has her death affected you on a personal level?
BG: Well, I styled a collection for Kate Spade about a year ago and then the collaboration went really
BG: I’m here pretty much every two weeks or so, so I love New York for about two weeks and then I have to go back to LA because the pace is too much for me. New York is like my second home; they’re like brother and sister I try not to choose.
BG: It has been very sad; I think listening to her music is kind of
“I HOPE THAT THROUGH THE SHOW AND THROUGH THE BOOK PEOPLE CAN SEE THAT EVEN IF IT IS A LONG ROAD TO DISCOVERING WHO YOU ARE...WE’RE ALL BEAUTIFUL UNIQUE INDIVIDUALS.” well. And so now that I work with them, I’m actually contracted with them for two years as their brand stylist. You know I mean my aesthetic and the Kate Spade girl are basically the same person. I’m the male version of the Kate Spade girl. It’s a really happy marriage. I’ve seen Spring 2013 and it’s really good! MY: What has been your most memorable moment in the industry? BG: Well my book kind of ends on that note, it was meeting Donatella Versace. That’s way up there on my list! MY: How did you begin your styling career? BG: I interned at Vogue and W magazines here in NY. Then my third summer I interned for a celebrity styling duo Cristina Ehrlich and Estee Stanley and that’s where I got into the world of celebrity styling. And from there I went on to get a job with the west coast office of Vogue and from there I got my job with Rachel.
chilling now. She was such an icon and an inspiration to me and you know growing up gay with Whitney’s voice in my head. MY: Do you think you’ve had an impact on gay youth? BG: I don’t know, I hope so. I hope that through the show and definitely through the book people can see that even if it is a long road to discovering who you are and becoming comfortable with who you are, we’re all beautiful unique individuals and we should celebrate each other instead of fighting against each other. MY: One last question, which Sex and the City character do you identify with the most? BG: Who do you think? Carrie, for sure.
Ed2010@FIT Hosts Focus on Features Panel By Sarah Dill
ED2010 panel Photographed by Kelsey Panicco.
On March 27th from 7pm to 9pm in the D building, the ED2010 club hosted the “Focus on Features” panel event for students and club members to ask questions and get the inside scoop on the day in the life of a magazine features editor. A range of features editors in the health, home, sex/relationships and food departments participated in the event and was well attended by students. Panelists included Carolyn Kylstra, senior editor at Cosmopolitan, Erin Quinlan, health editor at Better Homes and Gardens, Gabriella Gershenson, senior editor at Saveur magazine and Mieke ten Have, associate style editor at ELLE Décor. Co-Presidents Ryann Foulke and Sarah Dill opened the event
thanking the guests for joining and welcomed the panelists to the discussion. Getting right into their background and past positions, the panelists discussed their inconsistent day-to-day life as features editors and touched on the atmosphere at each of their offices. Every editor seemed to have a different journey to their current position, noting that any upcoming editor could switch from career to career as long as they were eager, excited, humble and hungry. Topics swayed from the skills needed to take on the more digital platforms emerging in the magazine industry to also how to stay current and up on trends with each issue.
“You may not be like the reader but if an angle feels fresh and new, then those readers will feel the same way,” said Quinlan of Better Homes and Gardens. Panel members answered questions from students about the future of magazines and where they thought it was headed and also gave advice to aspiring editors. “Show up early and leave after your boss,” said Kylstra. “Set your sight on what you want and be tenacious,” added Mieke ten Have. The night was concluded with exchanged business cards, emails and final words from the ED2010 chapter’s faculty advisor Professor Leopold.
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Joe Zee Gives Insight to Students
Faculty Spotlight:
Helen Feygin, Cosmetics and Fragrance Department By Alyssa Kyle Lipstick, foundation and many other cosmetics are beauty products that require fragrance research. Companies spend a lot of money on fragrances, from its elaborate packaging to its chosen fragrant notes. Sometimes the fragrance is the most important and expensive part of the product. Helen Feygin is the newest addition to the Cosmetics and Fragrance Department at FIT. After gaining experience from working in a variety of different departments, Feygin has plenty to teach her students. Alyssa Kyle: I notice you have a strong accent. What’s your background? Helen Feygin: I was born in Riga, Latvia. Latvia is now an independent country, but at that time it was the Latvia Republic. I was born there and I went through my undergrad degree and got my masters from the Polytechnic Institute of Technology in Riga, Latvia. My master’s degree was in chemistry. I was married and two of my sons were born. By 1979, we decided to leave and our whole family immigrated to the United States.
Joe Zee speaking at the Forum, photographed by Richard Gilmartin.
By Richard Gilmartin On March 16th, 2011 Joe Zee, Creative Director of ELLE magazine and FIT alum, was a guest speaker at the Dean’s Forum held in The Great Hall. Zee, who is an inspiration to all current students at FIT, shared his personal journey of hard work and persistence. Everyone’s ears perked up waiting for the secret ingredient that has made him so successful. The answer was so simple that anyone in the room could have guessed it: determination. A native of Toronto, Zee first came to FIT as a student in 1989. He was told he couldn’t do it because he wasn’t pretty, blonde and female, therefore the odds wouldn’t be stacked in his favor. Zee decided to try out his luck anyway and applied late to the Advertising and Marketing Communications program. After pestering admissions for months, he was finally accepted in August. Once he had arrived, Zee made it his mission at FIT to stand out. He became the Editor-in-Chief of FIT’s W27 newspaper, and even went ahead and was able to find an internship all on his own at Sportswear Int’ll. He quickly realized the importance of standing out as an intern, and that all of his various extracurricular activities relied on the skills essential for getting a job done efficiently. Once out of school, Zee was able to land a job at Allure, where he stayed for a few years before moving on to W Magazine, as the fashion
editor. Zee is now the creative director at ELLE magazine. Zee is very enthusiastic about the constant shift in the fashion industry he’s seeing and says, “The industry isn’t just Devil Wears Prada,” whose job isn’t a typical nine to five, and may include anything from exploring the visual identity of ELLE to which celebrity will grace its cover. Zee also shows a strong passion for technology and encouraged students to use social media to brand themselves, and even claimed that the use of social media and its immediacy is more important than the press kit in today’s society. However, all work and no play isn’t what Zee advised, he believes that having an active social life is essential to keeping a healthy balance between work and personal life. His key to keeping his determination and putting a little bit of pep in his step was balance. While working towards one’s goals he stressed that it is extremely important to have a social life in order to have happy and less stressful lifestyle.
APRIL 2012
AK: Why did you leave Latvia and come to the U.S.? HF: Basically when my kids were born I told my husband I couldn’t raise my kids in a country where I had to lie to them every day. I completely did not agree with all the communist propaganda and the way of life that discounted individuals and basically lied to its citizens each day. And we decided it would be better if they grew up free. So we went through the whole process. We got into the US in May of 1979. It was recommended I get a waitress job or something. But I was a chemical engineer and I decided to try and practice in my field so I was able to get a job in an essential oil company, J. Manheimer. AK: How did you find yourself in the fragrance industry? HF: In a way [J. Manheimer] was my introduction to the fragrance world because essential oils are the ingredients of fragrances. After working for them for a couple of years I decided that I wanted to get back into my field, I am an organic and synthetic chemist. There was a small fragrance company in Brooklyn called Elias Fragrances that wanted to do captive aroma chemicals so I was doing that for them. Because it was a small company I quickly got involved with everything else. And after a while I was doing quality control of both incoming raw materials and outgoing raw materials. I was also friendly with perfumers and doing some perfumery. I loved my job. In small companies you get a lot of exposure.
AK: After leaving Elias, how did you end up working at ColgatePalmolive? HF: My husband found an ad in the paper that Colgate was looking for a project leader for their fragrance d epartment. I sent in my resume and they wanted me to come. They sent me an application and I didn’t respond right away so they called me and said, “Please send us your application.” So I went in and got the job. I was hesitating but decided it was a large company and took it. So at Colgate I was first in quality control stability evaluation and then I moved to fragrance development. I was responsible for developing new fragrances for Colgate products. I was the category leader for fragrance care and it gave me a lot of interaction with many fragrance companies in the industry. AK: Intuiscent is your own fragrance company, what does your company do? HF: It is a fragrance supply company. We work with other companies that use fragrances. We create fragrances for candles, detergents, shower gels, creams, or any kind of products. We have worked with quite a few young designers who want to create their own fragrances. We have been successful with them in the market already, like Stiletto fragrance from Nicole Amy. She’s a young woman and she loves shoes. And we do designer candles like Jonathan Ward London. Most of his line is our fragrances. AK: What is your favorite part of the fragrance process? HF: Creation, but I like everything. When you create something that hasn’t been there before it is very satisfying. I have worked with many perfumers in my life and guided them through the process. The most satisfying is achieving a positive result.
ON THE BLOCK
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What the Health? The Beauty Diet By Sarah Dill Beauty runs skin deep…straight through to your stomach. According to Everyday Health Magazine, certain enzymes, vitamins and antioxidants can be found in foods to help clear skin breakouts, limp hair and beauty breakdowns. After swapping out grease with vitamin C, I now not only feel better health wise, but also have noticed a fresher look to my appearance. Small ingredients or less of fatty processed foods can increase your daily energy, boost your metabolism and have you looking and feeling great by the end of the day. With the summer months rearing their bikini clad heads, drop the chips as your beach snack and switch out these chemically induced foods with these new picks to have you glowing from the inside and out. A Olive you: Drizzle on your veggies or douse your locks in it to help repair split ends. This vrsataile ingredient is ultra hydrating to the skin and hair, making this a perfect seasoning to your dish and hair. A Water works: Water has been the simplest way to stay hydrated, keep yourself full, and free of harmful toxins. H20 can provide a clearer complexion and enhanced eyes, creating a perfect skin moisturizer. A Gloat for Oats: Mix fruit, brown sugar and skim milk in for a perfect morning boost or soak dry oats in a luke warm bathtub for a night of pampering and soothing food to take away skin irritations.
A Honey love: Honey is the natural sweetener to every drink and it is also known as the perfect skin moisturizer in beauty products for lips, soaps, and face creams to help kill bacteria and heal wounds or acne spots. A Salmon says so: This power fish is packed with DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol), which is a compound to help rejuvenate skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Eat salmon raw in sushi or sautéed in a pan, this fresh fish will give your face a wave of youth. A Acai high: These new found berries are the perfect kick to any smoothie, tea beverage or shake to help neutralize stress, protect your skin against the sun’s rays and eventually even out your skin tone. A Tea time: Green tea has been known for its health benefits to protect against some cancers or help reduce cholesterol but it also helps your skin retain natural moisture. Dampen a teabag and place on your eyes for a refreshing eye relaxer or drink the tea down increase your health benefits.
Dorm Dish Recipe: Spicy Sweet Potato Oven Fries NOTHING SATISFIES A LATE NIGHT CRAVING LIKE A BURGER AND FRIES. TO CUT OUT THE LOADED STARCHY CARBS, OPT FOR THESE SAVORY AND LIGHT SWEET POTATO FRIES TO GIVE YOU A LITTLE HEAT AFTER YOUR EASTER CANDY BINGE.
Photo courtesy of sweetbytesblog.blogspot.com
You will Need: 1 pound(s) uncooked sweet potato(es), cut into 4-inch long by 1/2-inch-thick fries 2 spray(s) cooking spray 2 tsp olive oil 1 tsp chili powder, chipotle variety 1 tsp ground turmeric 1/2 tsp table salt, or to taste 1/2 tsp sugar 1/2 medium fresh lime(s), cut into wedges
A Soak cut potatoes in cold water for at least 30 minutes or up to an hour; drain. A Preheat oven to 425°F. A Coat a nonstick cookie sheet with cooking spray. Arrange fries on prepared pan, packed tightly together; drizzle with oil and turn potatoes until fries are wellcoated with oil. A In a small bowl, combine chili powder, turmeric, salt and sugar. Sprinkle half of spice mixture over fries; flip fries and sprinkle with remaining spices. Turn fries over several times to make sure spice mixture is evenly distributed. A Spread fries out and bake, turning once or twice during baking, until desired degree of doneness, about 25 to 32 minutes. Serve with lime wedges and extra salt on the side, if desired. Yields 1/4 of potatoes per serving.
Q&A with Editorial Assistant at Weight Watchers Magazine: Katerina Gkionis By Sarah Dill
SD: What have you been eating to get better prepared for the bathing suit season? KG: Lots of yogurt! I’m currently on a greek yogurt kick and I really can’t get enough. I used to eat oatmeal for breakfast but that became very boring. I find greek yogurt very filling and refreshing. I’m also loving cantaloupe these days (sometimes, you’re just in love with one food for a few weeks, ha.)
Katerina Gkionis, courtesy of Katerina
Sarah Dill: How did you come to be part of the editorial team at Weight Watchers? Katerina Gkionis: I have been editorial assistant for the Weight Watchers Publishing Group for two years. Prior to that, I interned for one semester during college and I was a freelance columnist for a year, also during college.
SD: Do you have favorite recipes from Weight Watchers that you frequently cook? KG: I have a vegan black bean chili that I love to make during Lent. I also have two favorite recipes from one of our five-ingredient cookbooks, pesto and feta stuffed chicken and a lasagna. They are so tasty! SD: What is your favorite form of outdoor activity? KG: I love, love, love to walk. Also, in the summer I love to rollerblade.
SD: What have you been currently working on with Weight Watchers and have you seen an immense change in the magazine from the start? KG: I am currently working on finding successful members to feature in the magazine. I also work on one of our style pages called “Style for All,” which is all about plus-size fashion. We redesign the magazine each year so I have seen two completely different magazines in my time here. It’s really exciting to recreate the magazine. SD: Any food guilty pleasures during the spring time?
received. My abs are still hurting (in a good way). But if you don’t have an hour to spare during the week, just walk. Seriously, just walk wherever you have to go. I live in Hoboken and rather than take the bus to the PATH train, I walk (it’s 1.25 miles). I also walk wherever I need to go in NYC rather than take the subway. Plus, I walk during lunch too. Just make most of the time you do have. If I walk to/from work and during lunch, I can get 9 Activity PointsPlus values! That’s a workout for me and I did that all during the work day. It’s really all about making the most of your time. SD: What are some snacks you can’t leave home without to keep you energized during the day?
KG: Cadbury eggs. It’s a problem. SD: What advice do you have for those who are short on time to workout but still want to have beach ready bodies? KG: Take a rowing class. I took my first one this past weekend and it was the best workout I have ever
KG: Every Sunday, I cut carrots for the week. I eat these with hummus or on their own.
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APRIL 2012
THE SUSTAINABILITY CORNER Blu Homes:
Sustainable Homes a Click Away By Alessandra Della Vecchia Interior Design majors have the opportunity to take a course called Ecology & the Built Environment, which allows students to investigate the parallels between ecology and building construction. Recycling, reuse, and ecological awareness are also studied. The importance of sustainability in today’s lifestyle is becoming more prominent and students are sparking interest in that field. Bill Haney is not the typical home builder, he is an eco-friendly one. Haney has been an environmentalist for many years and last year he also became a film director when he debuted his documentary The Last Mountain. The film focuses on the fight against coal burning on the mountains of Appalachia in the town of Coal River Valley, West Virginia. Haney founded Blu Homes in the midst of the recession in 2008 and ever since he has seen growth and upward progression within his company as more Americans become aware of the importance of cultivating a sustainable, green and a more eco-friendly lifestyle. Alessandra Della Vecchia: How did you come up with the overall concept for Blu Homes? Bill Haney: I’ve been an environmentalist my entire life and most of my adulthood has been spent inventing or investing in new technologies and companies. The idea of reducing the carbon footprint of American homes and making the home buying process more fun and convenient fit perfectly into my interests, passions, and skill
set. I was fascinated by the idea of using technology to revolutionize how we build American homes, so I launched a two-year research study with graduate students from MIT and RISD that explored the health, economics, design experience and environmental effect of housing on American families. Then I tested this on my own ecologically protected property in Massachusetts with our first homes, which were designed online in 3-D and precision built with steel. They were installed in one inspiring day and each finished in a week. Since then, Blu has been building beautiful, green homes for families across North America. ADV: On your website, you shed some interesting light on the history of traditional home-building in America. Why do you think it has taken so long for someone, such as yourself, to come up with a plausible alternative? BH: I actually think architects have been trying to address this issue for decades. However, I think we needed recent technological advancements to make this dream a reality. Blu is the first homebuilder that I’m aware of that focuses on leveraging the latest building science and technology to improve the home building process—and the homes themselves. And we’ve figured out a way to deliver the finished product at a predictable, fixed cost. That is a huge benefit to customers. ADV: How exactly does one go about having a Blu Home built?
Photos of the interiors and exterior of the Breezehouse model, courtesy of bluhomes.com
BH: We have a five-step process to building your home and a dedicated sales rep that walks you through the entire experience. The first step is choosing the right parcel of land and obtaining financing. After that, you can log on to our online Configurator where each home can be selected, personalized and visualized in 3-D. Once the design is finalized, our software creates engineering documents and then sends exact specs to our factory craftsmen. One of Blu Homes’ primary goals is to reduce the time spent in the homebuilding process. Although there are many variables like permitting and financing that can affect schedule, we’ve created a process that can drastically reduce the time it takes to build your home. After your design is complete, it takes about 4-8 weeks to construct the home in our factory, and then 2-3 weeks to deliver and install your Blu Home. Compare this to the traditional stick-built homebuilding process, which is often 9-18 months or more, plus an additional 3-6 months to work with an architect. It goes without saying that Blu homes are more energy-efficient, quieter, better ventilated, create less waste, and are less destructive to the environment than the average home. On average, the homes cost 50 to 70 percent less to operate on a monthly basis than conventional homes. That’s HUGE!
ADV: In other words, the price of housing has dropped significantly in the past few years. Do you think most people are willing to spend a bit more money on a home, if it means being environmentally friendly? BH: We started this in 2008, so things could only go up from there! And they have. We have been doubling sales growth year over year and are on target to do the same again this year. It’s been amazing to see how our eco-friendly, space-efficient homes seem to be the bright green spot in the industry. If you could say there is a silver lining to the recession, it is that people are turning their back on excess—as seen in the McMansions of the bubble—and returning to America’s core values. Excess just doesn’t feel right anymore. There is a desire for smart living instead of big living. That is exactly in line with Blu Homes’ philosophy. Skyrocketing energy prices and a need to manage ongoing expenses, has also motivated people to look for more efficient ways to heat their homes. The fact that we offer 50-70% savings in operating and energy costs is huge. Many states are now offering incentives for green home building, so that’s helpful as well. For more about Blu Homes visit bluhomes.com.
Live Like a Rebel, Dress Like a Prince By Caroline Whiteley Entrepreneurship has become an increasingly significant term to the workplace of the 21st century. New York City in particular seems to be the capital of young entrepreneurs founding their own companies out of creativity and passion. Matthew Grimsley and Bryant Littrean of Prince magazine, a newly launched online publication for men’s fashion, fall right into that category of young visionaries. “The inspiration of the magazine is from the streets, from living in the city and seeing an underrated style that doesn’t have a platform in fashion,” Grimsley said after pointing at a fellow student wearing a
dress shirt and bowtie with cropped harem pants. He added “I love that!” The magazine’s motto is “Live like a rebel, dress like a Prince” which represents perfectly the casual yet chic style that young men seem to strive toward and identify with. The magazine’s modern approach was also the reason to publish it online. “This is an age where everyone has an iPhone/iPad/laptop. It’s more economical to go online and it’s the best way to reach young people,” said Littrean, who has a background in web design, transferred from St. John’s University and is now a communication design major. “The beauty of a website is that it’s
mobile. So there are so many different platforms to view the magazine,” he explained, proudly showing the variety of layouts he has made for tablets, smartphones and the conventional desktop site. Users can take Prince wherever they go. No matter what device you use, the website automatically responds to the device it’s being used on and switches its format accordingly. In fact, Prince is one of the first online publications to have this first-response layout. All three of the founding members of Prince magazine bring a unique talent to the table, whether it’s Littrean’s web design expertise,
Tyler Hill’s editorials, or Grimsley’s previous experience in the fashion industry (he’s worked at ELLE magazine and Michael Kors). “I think that all of our experiences and the joined force is going to contribute to Prince in becoming a very successful magazine.” For now the subscription for the magazine is free, however the Prince team has already figured out how to create revenue in the future. “Certain editorials will offer exclusive content for anyone who pays a small membership fee, but for now we’re doing it for the passion,” Grimsley stated.
ON THE BLOCK
FIT
10
Future Mode:
{Jack Burns} By Marissa Mule
ADRIANA LIMA STATED, “BE SURE WHAT YOU WANT AND BE SURE ABOUT YOURSELF. FASHION IS NOT JUST BEAUTY, IT’S ABOUT GOOD ATTITUDE. YOU HAVE TO BELIEVE IN YOURSELF AND BE STRONG.” WHAT MATTERS IN DESIGNER’S WORK IS STAYING TRUE TO YOURSELF AND AVOIDING BLANDNESS. THIS MONTH, I HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO INTERVIEW A VERY TALENTED (AND VERY SWEET) FASHION DESIGN MAJOR AT OUR SCHOOL. AS A FOURTH SEMESTER STUDENT, JACK BURNS IS A VERY INDEPENDENT ARTIST, AN INSPIRATION TO ALL LOOKING TO FIND THEIR PATHS AND DISCOVER THEMSELVES. JACK SHOWS THAT PASSION AND DEDICATION WILL LEAD TO SUCCESS. Marissa Mule: What is your inspiration? Jack Burns: I don't have one single inspiration. I take things from small ideas. For instance, there could be a candy wrapper on the floor that I draw inspiration from. I try and make something big out of something small. MM: What are your strengths and weaknesses? JB: I am a conceptual thinker. That is definitely one of my strengths. I create based on conceptualizing strong ideas. One of my weaknesses is putting faith in other people. I'm very independent, and I hate to rely on others. MM: Who is your style icon? JB: I also don't have one single style icon. My icons are the everyday
Dress design by Jack Burns, courtesy photo.
people walking in the streets. I'm inspired by humans in general. I believe in the human story and struggle. MM: What is your dream job? JB: I'd love to be the creative director for Jil Sander. MM: What is your favorite thing about FIT? JB: I love meeting and connecting with a good professor. I love when the professors really know what they’re talking about and belong here.
“MY MOTIVATION IS TO JUST STAY HAPPY AND MAINTAIN A PASSION FOR WHAT I’M DOING.” MM: Did you always grow up loving fashion? At what age did you start designing? JB: I didn't know much about fashion growing up. I grew up in a very Catholic family in a very small town on Rhode Island. In my freshman year of high school I began designing as an escape. MM: Does your personal style reflect your aesthetic? JB: Definitely not. I have a uniform way of working and I stick to it. MM: What is your motivation? JB: My motivation is to just stay happy and maintain a passion for what I'm doing.
Knitted dress design by Jack Burns, modeled by Neysha De León, photographed by Nicholas Waickman.
MM: What do you hope to accomplish in the future? JB: Growing up in a small town everyone knows each other. I want to go home and have people already know what I'm doing. I don't want them to ask.
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APRIL 2012
STAFF PICKS FOR APRIL, CAMILLA MAYER, W27’S PHOTO EDITOR, VENTURED TO THE HIGHLINE TO STYLE A VARIETY OF KATE SPADE PIECES IN A CHIC SPRING ATMOSPHERE. FROM A BRIGHT FLORAL CHAIN NECKLACE TO A TAN BEACH HAT, THESE KATE SPADE PICKS, RAIN OR SHINE, ARE THE PERFECT ACCESSORY FOR A STROLL IN THE PARK.
Posey Park Statement Necklace Taisa Veras, Editor-in-Chief: This piece is a perfect statement for my #neckparty!
Grand Street Kaley
CHRISTINA GARCIA, JUNIOR DESIGNER: “THIS PURSE COMBINES CLASS WITH EDGE BECAUSE OF ITS SIMPLICITY BUT STUDDED DETAIL. I WOULD WEAR IT WITH ANYTHING.”
Grand Street Melinda Caroline Nelson, Deputy Editor: With its bright orange hue and simple shape, this cowhide bag is a fun and functional accessory for the spring and summer months. Its solid color and minimal hardware makes a statement without overpowering your favorite look.
Dunes Lane Patent Bow Hat Sarah Dill, Deputy Editor: This playful sun hat is a perfect accessory to add to my spring wardrobe and create an Audrey Hepburn feel. Not only does the straw material conform to my head and shade me from the sun’s rays, but also the patent black bow plays up a girly meets farm fresh look.
DEAR INDUSTRY
FIT
The It-Bag: The Cambridge Satchel By Nicole Loher From FIT’s A Building hallways to the city streets, it’s safe to assume that the Cambridge Satchel has taken the title of “It-Bag.” With The Cambridge Satchel Company’s most recent release, The Fluoro, a line of original Cambridge Satchels in fluorescent colors, and the current trend obsession with neon, these new satchels are popping up all over and they’re easy to spot. The core of the Cambridge Satchel Company is ethics—that keeps the company together and the customers coming back. From the cutting and sewing done by hand to the rivets put into each bag individually, every high quality bag is made especially for each customer and meant to reflect that individual. Although one can only buy these custom satchels online for now, keep your eyes peeled for a new Cambridge Satchel website with new features and some new small leather goods for sale. W27 had the chance to interview the founder, Julia Deane, about the brand’s recent successes and its future. How did you take such an iconic style and make it modern? In the beginning the twist was using leather colours that had never been seen on a satchel before. Traditional satchels were in muted tones—chestnut (our vintage), black and dark brown. We introduced red, purple, yellow and the fun palette we now sport.
Has Fluoro been the best seller this season? If yes, which color has been the most popular among customers? Despite the enormous acclaim that our Fluoro range has received, the classic colours are the bestsellers—month after month. We will continue to extend this range with upcoming seasonal trend colors that we have seen in the shows in New York, London and Paris. Have you noticed a specific target market gravitating towards your products? Our customers are buying in, not just to classic design and on trend colour, but to the ethics that our brand lives by. We make all of our bags in the UK, we treat everyone that works for us fairly and have a wonderful family atmosphere (complete with Rupert, the boxer dog that patrols the Cambridge Satchel Co. daily!) The company was set up in response my 8 year old daughter being bullied, I needed to move her to a school where she could thrive, this has been done and now we support the wider anti bullying community and give to educational causes. After releasing metallic satchels, will you also release satchels with prints on them? We have just collaborated with the kings of print, Basso and Brooke!
That satchel, from the show at London Fashion Week has brought us so much attention, we are now developing an exclusive range—that bag was just one of a capsule collection that is amazing! In terms of production, what goes into making a satchel? The leather is sourced in the UK— the tanneries we deal with match our palette to the exact shades we give them. All cutting and sewing is done by hand – the cutting presses are enormous, we have just invested in another which goes into the main production line this afternoon. Each rivet is put in individually – there is a great deal of work and skill involved in the making of each Cambridge Satchel. Do you think that each color of the satchels represents a certain personality trait? No, they are reflections of a mood if anything—many customers have a large range of our bags and take care in selecting the colour that most reflects how they are feeling, what they are wearing and how much attention they feel like grabbing!
we are keen to keep it that way. Our collection is tight, we don’t want to become a generic bag manufacturer. How would you measure the success of your collaboration with Dr. Martens? Each collaboration has brought fantastic opportunities—Dr. Martens is such an iconic British brand that we were proud to make a range of bags to match their trademark boots. Comme des Garcons put a brilliant fashion spin on our standard satchel and have been great supporters of our company as it has grown, our manufacturing standard has been raised by our association with them—our standards are now much higher than those needed for a school satchel. What inspires you? Beautiful things—be it a notebook in an amazing colour, a particular shade of a flower, my dog’s fur (brindle). Inspiration is usually colour based but sometimes an unusual fabric will have everyone in the Satchel Company excited. For more about the Cambridge Satchel Company visit www. cambridgesatchel.co.uk.
Do you plan on expanding the collection by designing small leather goods? We do have a number of new products being designed—but satchels are very much our focus and Photo by Camilla Mayer
APRIL 2012
W27
BEAUTY BUZZ SPECIAL EDITION b2 b3 b3 b4
REVIEWING NIVEA’S PDA KIT Q&A WITH HEATHER MUIR OF ALLURE CINDY BARSHOP OF COMPLETELY BARE NEW SPF PRODUCTS FOR WOMEN
b4 b5 b6 b8
MAKE-UP ARTIST BETHANY BRILL DESIGNER CHARLOTTE RONSON ESSIE NAIL POLISH PROS & CONS OF TANNING BEDS
BEAUTY BUZZ
FIT
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READY FOR TOUCHING: REVIEWING NIVEA’S PDA KIT GERMAN SKINCARE COMPANY NIVEA CHALLENGED THE W27 CONTRIBUTORS TO TEST SOME PRODUCTS FROM THEIR PDA-KIT. THE PRODUCTS WERE PART OF THE MILLION MOMENTS OF TOUCH CAMPAIGN. BELOW ARE THE WRITERS’ FINDINGS.
NIVEA FOR MEN ENERGY TOUCH OF RENEWAL NIVEA EXTENDED NIVEA’S VITAMIN SWIRL GEL MOISTURIZER LATHERING BODY SCRUB MOISTURE DAILY LOTION LIP CARE INSTANT EFFECT Q10 By Zachary Rosenbaum If you're a guy and your face is feeling dry, tired, or stressed, then this product is for you. Nivea's Energy Gel Moisturizer Instant Effect with Q10 does not fall short of its name. The product, a light, translucent, cyan-blue moisturizing gel, is extremely invigorating and leaves skin feeling fresh, energized and soft. Q10 is a coenzyme (a nonprotein compound) found in our skin. Q10 helps with skin's vitality and resilience—it helps to elasticize and actually produces energy in the skin due to its lipid-solubility and Vitamin E-like characteristics. However, this Gel Moisturizer has an interesting consistency. When first squeezed out of the container, it appears very luminous and bright in color. When rubbed in between the fingers, it is not as sticky as it seems. In fact, it is quite absorbent and quick drying. Once applied to the face, it disappears and leaves your skin with a healthy sheen and a radiant, energy-infused complexion. It's safe to say that it will wake you up in the morning, and give your skin the kick it needs to get you fresh-faced and ready to go—instantly. The product, however, is very fragrant. It smells very strong, fresh and clean—which is a good thing, but if you are sensitive to smells or who want to remain scentless, Energy Gel Moisturizer Instant Effect Q10 will make your face smell like a “hot man.” Overall, it is dermatologist tested and offers SPF-15 protection.
By Daysha Rodriguez
By Megan Venere
By Justine Fitch
Summer is just around the corner and it’s time to chase away that dry, flaky skin you’ve been dealing with all winter. Nivea Touch of Renewal Lathering Body Scrub is a gentle and creamy exfoliating cleanser fill with micro-beads that help peel away dead skin. The scrub also contains hydrating vitamin E pearls which brings out the skin’s silky smoothness. At only $10 in your local drugstore, it is one of the top selling body cleansers. What’s their secret? Nivea’s special hydra IQ technology intensely moisturizes the skin without clogging pores or making the skin oily. Two of the best qualities of the product are that it has a fresh scent and it’s film-free— meaning it will not leave a unwanted ring around your tub. So if you are looking to have glowing and irresistibly soft skin this summer, Nivea Touch of Renewal Lathering Body Scrub is just the product you need and it is gentle enough to use everyday.
This lotion is perfect for anyone who gets dry skin. From my own personal experience, finding good moisturizers is difficult when you have sensitive skin. All the alcohol and other additives sometimes make your skin even more irritated. There are some in this product, but not enough to bother your skin. Nivea rates their product as a medium lotion, being not too rich or light; this is definitely accurate. The lotion has p rovitamin B5 and “Hydra IQ Technology,” which the bottle says is suppose to leave your skin soft for 48 hours. Most times you see the “relieves for up to x amount of hours” and you wonder if it is really true. The Nivea Extended Moisture Daily Lotion definitely lives up to its reputation. It has a fantastic clean smell, and it really isn’t too heavy when you put it on. In the winter my skin can get very dry, and I notice it got smoother when I used it. I left it off for a few days to see if the softness would last the 48 hours and was surprised to find out it did. My only complaint is that it says it’s nongreasy. Putting on the lotion kind of feels like applying very light aloe vera, which is very sticky. You have to wait at least a few minutes before putting on clothes. My suggestion would be to use it every other day. Aside from all its stickiness, Nivea Extended Moisture lotion improved my dry skin tremendously, and I would recommend this product.
There’s nothing worse than getting dry, cracked lips. However, the new Vitamin Swirl Lip Care by Nivea is the perfect solution to avoiding the cracked lips during the transition from the frigid winter months to the warmer spring months. With the days growing longer and the sun becoming stronger, lip care is essential. The “antioxidant enriched lip care” contains SPF 10 which will protect your lips from harmful UV rays. It contains a formula of acai berry and wild apple blended together with antioxidants and vitamins C, E, and provitamin B5. This lip balm’s moisturizing effect only lasts for thirty minutes to an hour. While the product claims to be long-lasting, this is not the case. On the back of the packaging the product claims to “provide hours of moisturization,” however, I had to apply the lip balm several times a day to prevent my lips from getting dry. Overall, if I were to rate this product I would give it 3 stars out of 5. The lip care exudes shine and feels soft and smooth. However, if you want something that will seal in moisture for more than one hour, this is not your kind of lip care. The product did meet the needs for protection from UV rays as I experienced direct sunlight several days during my trial and it seemingly held up with constant application. If you are looking for lip care that tastes great but requires continuous application, then Nivea Vitamin Swirl Lip Care is the product for you.
ON THE COVER: Marie Claire’s Student Style Ambassador and current FIT student Kelsey Panicco wears Liquid Lipshine Fashion Avenue Fuchsia #579, an FIT-inspired lip gloss by New York Color. The pink shade is on-trend for this season and compliments any color you choose to wear. Photo shot by Benjamin Spell.
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W27 Q&A: HEATHER MUIR BEAUTY NEWS EDITOR FOR ALLURE By Elizabeth Cross Working in the beauty department at a magazine is one of the most sought after editorial positions in the publishing industry due to its hands-on experience with beauty products. Heather Muir has the privilege as the Beauty News Editor and columnist for the Daily Beauty Reporter for Allure.com. Her typical day includes attending beauty launches, trying new products, going backstage during fashion weeks, meeting with beauty experts, and writing for Allure magazine. She first got her foot in the door when she got an internship at SELF magazine in the beauty department and her dream of becoming a journalist came true when she got a job at Allure. Elizabeth Cross: What’s your favorite aspect about being a beauty editor? Heather Muir: One of my favorite aspects about being a beauty editor at Allure is that each day is different. Most often, I’m pitching story ideas, editing and choosing products for the Beauty Reporter section of the magazine, writing blogs for allure.com, conducting interviews with makeup artists, hairstylists, dermatologists, cosmetic chemists, and celebrities ranging from Justin Timberlake, Beyoncé, and Kim Kardashian. I also attend beauty events where I hear about the new products months before they hit the shelves. EC: How many people does it take to test all the products that go into an Allure issue? HM: What makes Allure the beauty authority is our rigorous testing process and we take it very seriously. The beauty department is constantly assessing the latest and greatest products but we also rope in our coworkers (including our Editor-inChief!) to make sure that we have a good mix of people testing—those with different skin types, skin tones, hair textures—we even have men weigh in. During our Best of Beauty testing process, our whole staff is involved. The product aisles can be very overwhelming—it’s our job to do the work for our readers so that they can make smarter shopping decisions.
APRIL 2012
CINDY BARSHOP
COMPLETELY BARES ALL
at fashion week is always one of those pinch me moments—she’s so creative yet down to earth. EC: What do you think is the most exciting innovation in skincare and/or cosmetics in recent years? HM: I think the wet sunscreens are genius—dermatologists have told us countless times how important it is to protect our skin and these make it easy no matter where you are or what activity you’re doing. Neutrogena makes some great ones. EC: Do you think there is a shift towards more men being interested in grooming and beauty products? HM: I think that ultimately, it depends on the guy—and what his wife or girlfriend puts in front of him. But in my experience, once they find a product that they love, they become loyal customers. When I first started dating my boyfriend, he rolled his eyes when I gave him a bag of Kiehl’s products to try. A few months later, he was asking me if he could get refills and raving about how their shaving cream gives him the closest shave. EC: Are high-end cosmetics always better? Do you have any favorite drugstore finds? HM: Surprisingly, they aren’t. Many drugstore companies invest big dollars in their research and development departments and have reputable experts behind them. Olay is a great example of this, especially when it comes to their Professional Pro-X line, which made super-powerful anti-aging products accessible to women everywhere. EC: If you could only own five beauty products, what would they be? HM: This is tough but I’d choose: Yes To Cucumbers Facial Towelettes (they remove makeup gently), La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid SPF 50 (the most important one!), Tom Ford Beauty Extreme Mascara in Raven, By Terry Rose Balm, and Hermes Un Jardin en Méditerranée Eau de Toilette (my new fragrance obsession!).
EC: Which person in the beauty industry inspires you most?
EC: What is your favorite beauty trend for Spring/Summer 2012?
HM: Well, as a beauty editor, it doesn’t get any better than working for Linda Wells, Allure’s Editor-inChief. She’s an incredible writer and editor and I’ve learned an enormous amount in my two years under her at Allure. She’s crazy smart and her wealth of knowledge makes our magazine the best beauty book in the industry. Outside of the journalism world, makeup artist Pat McGrath gets me really excited! Last season, I had the opportunity to chat with her one on one about the runway trends and watching her work backstage
HM: There are a bunch of amazing spring/summer trends (like bright pink lips and cool ponytails), but the new multi-hued manicures take the cake. I got one just last week. It’s when you choose three nail polish shades in the same color family (fuchsia, red, and orange, for example) and paint each finger a different one, in no particular order.
By Sarah Dill If you follow the drama behind Bravo’s hit TV reality series, Real Housewives of New York, then you’re familiar with one of its cast members Cindy Barshop. Not only is she a reality TV star but she’s also the founder of one of the top hair removal salons in the country. Juggling between her business ventures as well as family and a hit TV show, Barshop tells us how she does it all. Sarah Dill: When did you realize there was a market for a company such as Completely Bare? Cindy Barshop: I had a bikini problem and was unable to find a place I felt comfortable going to that really "specialized" in hair removal. I found a void in the market that I felt needed to be filled. I knew I couldn't be the only woman feeling this way. SD: What Completely Bare service and products should women keep up with and routinely use with the warmer weather approaching? CB: It is important that even with the warmer months approaching, women stay on track with their laser hair removal by scheduling treatments 4-6 weeks apart. Luckily, we have machines that enable us to treat all skin types including tan skin. If a woman is waxing, she would definitely want to come in and make sure her bikini is ready for when she wants to put on a bikini. Lastly, spray tans are the best way to get in the summer mood and stay bronzed and beautiful all summer long without the harmful effects of the sun. SD: What are your most popular products for spring? CB: Our wax kits are extremely popular. We are also coming out with a skincare line that has amazing products designed to target particular skin issues such as hyperpigmentation (Hyperpigmentation in skin is caused by an increase in melanin, the substance in the body that is responsible for color (pigment) and
Photo courtesy of Beautyhigh.com
rosacea (a chronic skin condition that makes your face turn red and may cause swelling and skin sores that look like acne). I'm really excited for it to launch and I think customers are going to be really impressed. SD: Do you plan on expanding in the near future, if so how? CB: We are expanding with our product lines. We are also planning on opening our largest location to date in the Flatiron area in NYC. SD: How did you market your brand in order to stand out? CB: We were the pioneers in various treatments which really helped to grow the business and draw attention to the spas. We created the Vajewel which is a S warovski crystal design for the bikini. We also were the first to offer a sculpted spray tan. SD: With such a big clientele, how do you keep a personal relationship with your customer while staying on top of your consumer's needs? CB: I have a great support staff and conduct meetings every morning with all the managers (there is one at each location) where we discuss the previous day, customer feedback and what we can do better. SD: Do you personally help create the products with a team? CB: It is all I'm working on right now! SD: What has been the best aspect about leading Completely Bare? CB: Seeing how my idea became reality and that I have created a place where women feel comfortable talking about and receiving treatments that were once taboo. For more about Completely Bare visit completelybare.com. Bring this article to any Completely Bare location to receive 20% off any service by using the code: FIT312.
BEAUTY BUZZ
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B-4
THE NEXT WAVE OF SPF PRODUCTS FOR WOMEN By Elizabeth Cross These days, SPF means more than just sunscreen. Cosmetic and skincare companies are including it in a wide variety of products, encouraging consumers to protect their skin in a multitude of ways. With spring on the horizon, here are the best products for protecting your skin from harmful rays in the city.
GARNIER SKIN RENEW MIRACLE SKIN PROTECTOR SPF 15 This new release from Garnier seeks to unite the functions of primer, moisturizer, SPF protectant and foundation in one step, and add skincare benefits to boot. It is one of the first drugstore B.B. creams (or Blemish Balm creams) in the U.S. market, as Western brands seek to capitalize on the remarkable success of B.B. creams in Asia. To the uninitiated, B.B. creams are designed to meld skincare and cosmetic concerns into one product that has anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties in addition to providing coverage. The Garnier product is a simplified version of the higher end B.B. creams from brands such as Missha and Christian Dior and seeks to correct “discoloration, dullness, blotchiness and dryness” in one step.
INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT:
BETHANY BRILL By Dianna Mazzone You probably have a lot in common with Bethany Brill: she studied here, she is ambitious, creative, and successful, and has worked alongside world famous hair guru Odile Gilbert for runway shows at New York Fashion Week. Well…maybe you share a few similarities with this multi-talented hairstylist! Brill graduated from FIT in 2007 and has since worked with publications such as NYLON and Vogue China. Through her work backstage during NYFW with Gilbert, Brill has styled runway hairdos for shows including Rodarte, Phillip Lim, and The Row. Dianna Mazzone: You grew up in upstate New York, could you tell us what influenced your decision to study in China? Bethany Brill: I actually moved to China when I was 14 after my Dad got a job offer there. It was my first plane ride ever and the single most eye-opening experience of my life. Growing up in a small town, I had no idea how big and diverse the world is. After returning to the U.S. for high school, I was accepted to FIT my senior year. About a month before I was set to move, my father got another job offer in China. I couldn't say no! I deferred my application,
Rather than the ghostly effect that the SPF and whitening properties of traditional B.B. creams tend to cast, the Garnier product looks more like a tinted moisturizer and comes in two shades. Nevertheless, the focus on SPF protection is no doubt a result of the emphasis on the pale, unblemished skin that is so desirable in the Asian countries where these products have been so successful. The Garnier B.B. cream therefore, is a good option for anyone looking for a sunscreen and tinted moisturizer that is lightweight enough to perform in the warmer months, yet still offers a reasonable level of coverage.
CLINIQUE SUPER CITY BLOCK OIL-FREE DAILY FACE PROTECTOR SPF 40: In keeping with its status as one of the most popular skincare brands in the United States, Clinique offers a wide range of sun protection products in its various skincare lines. One of the most popular and unusual is the Super City Block daily moisturizer, which is designed to protect the user against not only sun damage, but environmental damage as well. The formula contains broad-spectrum UVA and UVB sun-blocking ingredients and is fragrance-free
so as to be gentle on acne-prone or easily irritated skin. Clinique’s Super City Block moisturizer is one of the best examples of a new range of products that seeks to do more than just add a little SPF protection to an everyday moisturizer. These products are designed to provide full protection against harmful rays, yet be effective as a skincare product and work well under makeup. Whereas traditional sunscreens and moisturizers with SPF tended to be either greasy and oily or dangerously drying, City Block provides a much lighter protective barrier that interacts well with most foundations. Furthermore, its oil-free formula ensures that it does not exacerbate skin that has a tendency towards excessive oilproduction, especially in summer.
LAVANILA THE HEALTHY LIP SCREEN SPF 30: It is only in recent years that the damage to skin on the lips as a result of exposure to UVA and UVB rays has become a concern to both cosmetic companies and the general public alike. Whereas emphasis has long been placed on protecting the skin on one’s body and face, areas such as lips and ears were long overlooked, despite being the localized
moved back to China and started at Xiamen University studying Chinese language.
DM: Of the many publications you’ve worked with, have any particular shoots stood out to you as especially rewarding?
DM: What brought you to the Fashion Institute of Technology? What did you major in? BB: I couldn't wait to get to New York! After one semester I decided to leave the rest of my family and move to New York. I wasn't sure at this point what I wanted to do but I knew I wanted to work in the fashion industry and I wanted to own my own business. I thought the best major would be Fashion Merchandising Management, because I could learn about the industry while gaining business savvy.
site of many skin cancers. Recently, everyone from drugstores to highend brands have sought to add SPF protection – unfortunately sometimes extremely minimal – to their lip conditioners and lip balms. At the same time, a market has also opened up for products that are more focused on providing high-level and effective sun protection for the lips. The Lavanila Lip Screen claims to soften, protect and hydrate lips, while also providing SPF 30 protection. Though this may not sound as impressive as the SPF 100 that traditional American sunscreens often claim, it is important to remember that the additional sun protection offered by products claiming to be higher than SPF 30 is so minimal that in many countries it is illegal to advertise that a product is rated higher than 30 at the risk of misleading consumers about its sun protection ability. In addition, to offering high-level sun protection, the Lavanila Lip Screen is eco-friendly, using natural titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to combat sun damage. It is also made without chemical sunscreens, parabens, synthetic fragrances and nano-particles, and comprises only minerals that are non-coated.
BB: I just shot Vogue China and that was very exciting for me. I really want to work overseas more. DM: Where do you turn for inspiration?
Lindsey Wixson, hair by Bethany Brill, photo by David Paul Larson.
DM: How did your work in hair begin? When did this become your full time career?
I haven't turned back yet and it’s gotten easier and easier to pay my rent!
BB: I sort of just dove into the industry without any experience. I was interning at a PR firm and one of our clients was shooting her lookbook so I asked if I could do the hair and makeup for $50. They agreed and that was my first job. After that, I told everyone I met that I was a hair and makeup artist and to call me if they ever needed anything. Slowly, I gained a small list of clients and started working on building a portfolio and website. Three years later I was almost making enough money to cover my rent. I decided it was time to quit my horrible parttime job and either sink or swim as a freelance hair and makeup artist.
DM: How was the experience of working with famed hairstylist Odile Gilbert, particularly during Fashion Week? BB: Working with Odile has been a really amazing experience for me. Fashion Week is a lot of getting up at 4am and finishing at midnight. This year we did 11 shows so it was a pretty tight schedule. Odile works so hard and she is so skilled. I feel like I'm always absorbing what happened during Fashion Week for a month afterwards.
BB: I really like drawing inspiration from all over the place. Old musician photos, movies, cartoons, animals, fabric textures, drawings and from the girls themselves. You have to let the hair “speak to you.” It sounds weird but the cut/color and texture of the hair will lend itself to a style a lot of the time and then I just add a little twist to it. DM: What do you see as your “next step” in the world of makeup and hair? BB: I think there's is a lot more of what I'm currently doing in my future. I want to be involved in influential editorials and continue to build a client list of people I respect and can draw inspiration from. My parents are still living in China so I hope to work there soon. I think their fashion industry is starting to take off and I really want to be a part of it. I can't wait to see what happens—I'm holding on for the ride. For more about Bethany Brill visit bbrill.com.
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CHARLOTTE’S WEB A Fashion Designer’s Take on Beauty
By Sarah Dill, Caroline Nelson, Taisa Veras
FASHION DESIGNER CHARLOTTE RONSON IS A RUNWAY DESIGNER FAVORITE AMONG FIT TUDENTS, CELEBRITIES AND FASHIONISTAS ALIKE. SHE LAUNCHED HER COLLECTION AT AN EARLY AGE IN 2000 NAMED C.RONSON, WHICH WAS LATER CHANGED TO CHARLOTTE RONSON, AND HAS SINCE BECOME A MEMBER OF THE CFDA AND RECENTLY LAUNCHED A BEAUTY LINE WITH SEPHORA.
What inspired you to launch a beauty collection with Sephora and how was the experience of creating your own beauty products? We have been partnering with Sephora for my runway show for the past few seasons and they have always done an impeccable job translating the look of my girl on the runway. So it was a natural progression to work with them to create a beauty line together. They are one of the world’s leading beauty brands and I feel so lucky and honored to work with such a driving force in the beauty industry. What are your favorite products for spring from your Sephora beauty collection?
inspiration for the collection and how did it develop? This season has really evolved, and has found a great balance. I had a modern wardrobe for a real girl in mind, someone that matches her stocking to her gloves to her bag, and does it in such a carefree way. She is loving all the details. We added in retro ski and lux chalet references with our knitwear and coordinated looks. While colorful bold graphic prints and angular lines have an Art Deco feeling. This season has been very organic, it’s different from past season in a sense that I have moved away slightly from the grunge underlining and the collection has become cleaner, more refined and ladylike, but there is still a strength/sharpness that you can see coming through from the leather pieces.
2X A Charm Double-Ended Brush and Bronzer Cream Stick in Mindy Kaling (which is a soft rosy peach/ toasted almond) and the Double XO Lipstick/Lipstain in Lola.
Was it difficult to design with a more price conscious mindset when coming up with clothing for your JCPenney collaboration?
Your collection includes A Perfect Mess Beach Hair spray and you're the face of Sebastian Professionals Hair Care. Do you see yourself creating a full line of hair care products in the future and if so, what would this line include?
Yes of course, but in a way it is also easier as I have the full support of JCPenney and their resources. Their business is to create a quality product at a amazing price, so I have the luxury of just focusing on the design.
Yes, definitely, I would like to expand in this area as this product is one of our best sellers.
What have been some of your favorite collaborations with other designers?
You presented a slightly more streamlined silhouette for your Fall 2012 collection. What was your
I'm really proud of all of the collaborations I have worked on— it’s hard to choose, as each one
Charlotte reading in her apartment, photographed by Jacquelyn Clifford.
has been special and unique in its own way. My current collaborations are a Charlotte Ronson beauty for Sephora, I Heart Ronson for JCPenney, Shoshana Made with Love Bikinis and the most recent is a handbag collection with Artisan House. Do you plan on launching more collaborations? I have lots of exciting collaborations in the works. What’s your must-have piece of clothing for spring? My camel suede cropped jacket as it is perfect to throw over one of my ditsy floral printed dresses or dress up a pair of jeans. Who are some of your favorite designers and/or artists? Karl Lagerfeld, Riccardo Tisci, Phoebe Philo, Stella McCartney, Sarah Burton and Vivienne Westwood. For Artists I love George Condo, Lisa Yuskavage, Chuck Close, Dan Colen. How do your friends and family influence your designs? I’m lucky enough to be surrounded by so many inspiring and hard working people in my life. So if anything it really pushes me to push myself and also keeps the creative process flowing.
BEAUTY BUZZ
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Essie & Billy’s Cupcakes Photography and Styling by Camilla Mayer
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To Buy or Not to Buy | Limitless lilac shimmer | SS’12 Navigate Her | New growth green | SS’12 Pink-a-boo | Flirty micro-glitter sheer | Resort ‘12 Olé Caliente | Spicy scarlet Fever | SS’12 A Crewed Interest | Pretty persuable peach
BODY FEATURE
APRIL 2012
Fashion Institute of Sex By Richard Gilmartin We all shudder at the days of having to attend Sex Ed. class in high school. Exercises such as putting a condom on a banana in front of all of our peers is mortifying enough to send people into abstinence for the remainder of their high school years. A few years later and we are all grown adults in college, which should signify our capabilities in expressing ourselves sexually. For those interested in learning more on such matters, FIT offers a Human Sexuality course for those who want to learn the ins and outs of sex and its relationship with culture. Professor Raymond J. Noonan teaches the class, and has even written and edited several books used in the classes’ curriculum such as Does Anyone Still Remember When Sex was Fun? and the International Encyclopedia of Sexuality. The class is offered in the spring, fall, and summer semesters focusing on the cultural and psychosocial views of sex in society. Movies such as one entitled Baby & Slut are used to not only create a comfortable environment where a student doesn’t have to feel awkward talking about sex, but also educate students
FIT’s Favorite Gym Classes By Alyssa Kyle For many students at FIT, gym class requirements can seem pretty pointless when taking into consideration one’s intended career. Due to the state regulations that FIT must adhere to, most students are required to take a physical education or health education course. Gym classes can be fun! We asked 55 students from different majors what their favorites gym classes were and here are the results:
Pilates 4% Dance 4% Kung Fu 6% Tennis 7%
34% Yoga
Tai Chi 7% Aerobics 7%
Volleyball 14%
17% Fitness Training
on the use of sexual language in the various meaning of slang words for sex in today’s society. What really makes the class interesting is student participation, which varies from doing exercises such as playing with condoms to presenting term projects on pornography or surveying the current sexual behavior at FIT. Students are even required to keep weekly private journals and are encouraged to talk about sex in their personal lives. The class can be used as a requirement for the Health, Phys. Ed., and/or dance requirement at the school, or it can be used as a Liberal Arts Elective and the student has the choice of which to use it towards. Overall, this class is one of the most diverse classes offered at FIT and it is highly recommended to anyone interested in the topic.
100% Educational
Shaping Into Intimate Apparel By Ayana Bryant-Weekes “Lingerie has evolved from practical or restrictive undergarments into symbols which define the feminine ideal of an era, wrote Lulia Filip in an article entitled The History of Women's Lingerie: The Evolution of Intimate Apparel and the Feminine Ideal. The world’s fascination with lingerie is one whose roots can be traced back to ancient times. Initially, intimate apparel was designed primarily to protect and sometimes hide female sexuality. However, the purpose and appearance of lingerie has evolved, defining ideas of feminine beauty by era, as well as the progressing opinions of female identity. The silk, satin and lace creations currently designed to ornament the female body are sometimes overlooked elements of fashion design because of their everyday functional use. But entering a lingerie store today is very much like visiting an art gallery or museum as each piece engages our visual sense and stimulates our imagination. The Fashion Design program at FIT offers a BFA concentrating on Intimate Apparel design for those who are interested in lingerie and shapewear. FIT prepares fashion design students who choose to specialize in Intimate Apparel through the variety of courses that it offers. The school offers three introductory courses specific to undergarment design, and they are Foundation Design, Foundation Fitting Techniques and Shapewear and Foundation. The first course gives students the chance to produce original designs through flat pattern and draping, incorporating specialized sewing methods whilst the other familiarizes the student
to industry fitting standards and foundation-fitting techniques used in the industry. Shape-wear and Foundation is a course which introduces the students to control shapewear and body-contouring. In this class, students are required to learn how to visually present their design concepts using over-the-counter digital software. A special emphasis is also placed on software such as the Intimate Apparel CAD (Computer Aided Drafting) course. As seniors, students in the Intimate Apparel concentration can develop under the supervision of an instructor and an industry designer a mini collection which is then compiled into a comprehensive portfolio. The major also introduces students to the specialized areas of the intimate apparel “soft’ market, which include daywear, loungewear, leisurewear and sleepwear markets. FIT also has an Intimate Apparel Club which allows students studying Intimate apparel, and even those who are not but still remain interested, to participate in a social setting with students who have similar interests. The club's goal is to increase student awareness and information about the intimate apparel industry through club events, field trips, expo attendance, and speakers, as well as to help the community. Professor Diane De Mers is the Club Advisor and Lorna Skuraton is President. The Intimate Apparel Club meets every Tuesday, 1 PM, C809 or can be contacted at Intimate_Apparel@ fitnyc.edu.
BODY FEATURE The Right Amount of Tanning Inside a UV ray tanning booth, photo courtesy of knol.google.com.
By Oceane Mercadal Tanning beds are now being prescribed for medical purposes. Not only do they give you a nice glow, but also dermatologists recommend high ultraviolet B light devices to patients with various skin diseases, such as eczema. So why not choose them as an easy alternative to a sexy glow for the bikini season? Before you jump on the excuse, there are certain facts you need to know about tanning beds. A 2004 study by the American Academy of Dermatology determined that tanning beds are
addictive and have positive impact on people’s moods. A session under the ultra violet lights can make you feel better, but it also involves certain risks. The scariest drawback of tanning beds is that it is an intense session of UV lights, which can lead to various types of cancers—(melanoma) skin cancer, liver cancer and breast cancer. Tanning booths are known to have approximately 95% ultraviolet A light, and 5% ultraviolet B light. Ultraviolet B is known to cause sunburn and skin cancer, while
ultraviolet A is associated with aging of the skin. Aside from the grim news, tanning itself has some advantages, such as the production of melanin, which is the pigment that protects the skin from UV rays and it also helps the intake of vitamin D. However, people tend to forget that the everyday exposure they get from walking outside or during a run in the park is enough intake for their metabolism. Getting a nice glow is proven to make people feel better and have more confidence. During the winters people tend to be more depressed, which is why light therapy has been developed over the years. Light affects the intake of vitamins. The solution to sunlight depression may be tanning beds. Even though milk, cod liver oil, and supplements can supply vitamin D, solar radiation is still a main source for humans. Vitamin D also protects from various types of cancers as well as benefiting the overall mortality.
Doctors and specialists will recommend avoiding tanning beds and use beauty products such as self-tanner products, but I would
By Alyssa Kyle
DANIEL MODELL IS THE SELF-DEFENSE PROFESSOR AT FIT. AFTER RECEIVING A BACHELOR’S DEGREE FROM NEW YORK UNIVERSITY AND A MASTER’S DEGREE FROM THE UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS BOTH IN PHILOSOPHY, MODELL FOUND HIMSELF WORKING AT THE NEW YORK POLICE DEPARTMENT. HIS EXTENSIVE UNDERSTANDING OF PHILOSOPHY, MARTIAL ARTS, TRADITIONAL KARATE, KUNG FU, AND JUJITSU MAKES HIM A USEFUL SOURCE FOR INFORMATION ABOUT SELF-DEFENSE.
Daniel Modell: I had taken the test before I left NYU and I was always interested in becoming a cop. But they weren’t really hiring off that list and it was taking a long time so I figured, let me go do some other things. I had an interest in philosophy for a time so I wanted to pursue that for a bit and I did. Interestingly the timing was great, by the time I was done with my master’s degree they were ready to hire off that list. So I came back and got hired in 1995 and have been there for 17 years. AK: How did you start teaching at FIT? DM: I was teaching defensive tactics in the police academy for a couple years. René Mathez who runs the Health and Physical Education Department was interested in starting up a self-defense class and was looking to reach out to somebody who had a substantial background in that. Indirectly, by a fortunate series of circumstances it fell into my lap. I happen to have a master’s degree and it was the first time it really came in handy for me. I interviewed with him, talked about the class, wrote up a curriculum and went through the rest of the process.
I have to say FIT has been great to me. Great students and a great department, I’m not used to being treated so well. AK: Why do you think it is important for FIT students to take self-defense? DM: I think it is important for anybody to learn self-defense. As it happens, the young and the older tend to suffer a disproportionate amount of crime and violent crime. Why is it important? Well because we live in a violent world. I don’t want to put too fine a point on it because you hear so much about historic reductions in crime and that is true, however you have to take it in context. We still have about five times the murder rate than there was in the 1950s. And that doesn’t even tell the real story because the truth is with the improvements in medical technology, injuries that would have killed you 50 years ago now wont. We live in a violent world and preparation is the answer to that. It may never happen to you and hopefully it won’t, but when or if it does and you have that moment of truth, you want to be prepared. AK: What do you feel is most important for students to take from your class? DM: I don’t teach traditional martial arts. I think if martial arts are not
disagree with the experts. Being allergic to the sun restricts the amount of time I spend outside because of severe allergic reactions that will prevent me from enjoying the beach. In order to avoid being left out I indulge myself with a few sessions of artificial sun— two tanning sessions a week for two weeks is plenty for a perfect glow. These few sessions before going to the beach allow me to prevent from burning and getting an allergic reaction. Not only I avoid bad surprises but I am not ashamed of wearing my bikini. The same drill applies for winter and since bad weather has negative impact on morale, a few sessions of artificial sun will boost me into doing more things and I feel better about myself after a session. Therefore, tanning beds have many advantages when exposure is moderate. So what will be your technique for a sunny glow this bikini season?
“THE SOLUTION TO SUNLIGHT DEPRESSION MAY BE TANNING BEDS.”
From Philosophy to Self-defense
Alyssa Kyle: After going to school for philosophy, how did you end up in the NYPD?
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put in their proper context it is actually a hindrance to self-defense because martial arts is centered on complex motor skill. Now, if you were surprised or ambushed or you weren’t expecting something you’re never going to be able to move right to complex motor skill; the idea that you are going to posture up the right way and get just the right block is absurd. You want to tend to work with your genetically wired defensive mechanisms. The body is pretty well suited to defend itself and the body often knows better than you. AK: Coming from such a different work environment than FIT, what do you see in FIT students that make them special? DM: I see in them what I see in a lot of the best younger cops. I see a lot of heart, a lot of determination, and a willingness to learn. They are a bit more chatty then the cops but I like that. There is always a lot of feedback. We usually spend some amount of time talking about the mindset you import with you on the streets in regards to how you may defend yourself and they always have a lot to say about that. In a way, that helps me grow and expand. I really have been shocked by the amount of heart and determination. They throw themselves into it and that makes it a pleasure for me.
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APRIL 2012
Drawing the Dream By Madeline Thompson Most illustration students hope to exercise their talent in the industry soon after graduation. However, that is not an easy task since people are increasingly turning to other forms of digital art. Despite these challenges, young illustrator and artist Dallas Shaw was able to pursue her dream of becoming a full-time illustrator right after college. Determination and thinking big played a key role right from the start. Madeline Thompson: Where did you go to college? What was your major? Dallas Shaw: I went to Marywood University and majored in illustration. That major forced me to take classes in drawing, painting, photography, interior—all of it. MT: What was your first commissioned illustration project? DS: I was asked to illustrate things here and there in college. I kept my rates really low so the students could afford drawings. MT: When did you realize that you wanted to become a full-time illustrator? DS: I knew when I was very young. I wrote to the head animator at Disney and asked for a job in sixth grade. They say most artists know at a young age—I did for sure. MT: You have worked for multiple companies that all have different styles. Has it ever been difficult to continuously change your illustration style to coordinate with a company’s style? DS: Actually for me it’s opposite: companies hire me because they want my brand, style and signature to show in the work, so I am fortunate that I always get to be fairly consistent. I felt I wasn’t happy doing what others wanted—so I branded my artwork to reflect what my own passions were. Now I get to draw what I love every time. MT: Do you try to incorporate your style in the illustrations you design for companies, such as Chanel and Kate Spade? DS: My overall sense of style doesn’t fall into a category. I am not just one thing like “prep” or “bohemian,” I just like what I like and share all of those things online, so people are very familiar with my personal style due to the success of the blog and Twitter. I never try to incorporate my style into any work, I think it just happens. MT: When you see your illustration come to life, such as your design for the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tote and winning the Haute Couture 2008 fashion design challenge, what is your reaction?
DS: I am always proud and appreciative. It’s wild when your artwork appears on a product and the women next to you on the street is wearing something you created. I have been drawing my entire life, and being able to have a small business in art and style consulting has been a dream. It took me years and years to take this career and make it successful, and I didn’t know one single soul in fashion, so every time I see the drawings on product, on websites, in advertisements, I feel a certain sense of pride. MT: When you illustrate characters for a company, such as DNKY PR Girl, do you try to give them certain characteristics? DS: Some companies leave all of that up to me and some have an idea of what the artwork should reflect. For example, one large part of my job is project development and style consulting so some companies hire to not only to illustrate but to develop a project, right down to the look and characteristics of some illustrations. With an illustration like DKNY PR Girl, she had to reflect a certain amount of sass from the beginning. The personality you see in the artwork directly reflects her real life personality. MT: After you have finished the illustrations and shown them to the company for which you have made them, what happens next? DS: It depends. I have different contracts with each company. Some can make the illustrations live on the internet the moment they are done, sometimes you don’t see the artwork until the next year since we design for each season so far in advance. MT: If you could collaborate with anyone who would it be and why? DS: This question is interesting, because I have collaborated with so many amazing companies, and it sounds silly, but many of them have been dream collaborations. Probably Nate Berkus. I am such a fan of his work, and his personal outlook on style. I’d also really like to do something with a beauty company sometime, because I haven’t done much in beauty (yet), or maybe even a large department store. I’d also really love to work with Disney; I have a long standing relationship with the company and I adore those princesses.
Dallas Shaw’s workspace, courtesy of Dallas.
Michael Bastian on the Business of Fashion By Terron Richardson “No one has more style than a New York seven year old,” said Michael Bastian, the fashion designer behind the label GANT by Michael Bastain and his namesake menswear line. “Odds are they have cool parents that let them dress themselves in the morning, and what they end up with is wearing what makes them happy, and if we all can do a little of that the world would be a better place.” When one thinks of the top American menswear designers, Bastian comes to mind. However, the former Men’s Fashion Director at Bergdorf Goodman and the 2011 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award winner, didn’t think that he would become a fashion designer, he thought that he was going to work in the advertising field. Nevertheless, he ended up in the fashion luxury market, moving from Ralph Lauren, to Tiffany’s, to Bergdorf’s and now to his own line. Bastian uses his experience and expertise to make sure that the two collections that he designs for each have its own personality. “I sometimes find designers who do two lines lazy, and by lazy I mean they make their secondary line just a cheaper, watered down version of their main line. You know it makes it very confusing and the customer now is too aware and tapped in. They know what went down the runway and what didn’t go down the runway, so it was important to me to keep these two lines separate and have their own identity,” he stated. The GANT guy is an all-American: preppy, youthful, and enjoys good quality clothes, while the Michael Bastian guy is all about modern American tailoring. He jokingly said, “I always say GANT is the little brother to the Michael Bastian line; he’s his own person, own spirit. The guy that wears GANT may have different motivations when he wakes
up from the Michael Bastian guy, but both have the same father.” Bastian defines his success by how much people are wearing, loving and desiring his clothes. When he sees someone wearing a piece from his collections he admires how people wear it their own way, “I love it when I see a guy making it his own, doing his thing and it becomes part of his life,” he said. When it comes to the business side of the industry he also has a lot of insight about trademarks and what an emerging designer should consider when starting his or her first label. “Don’t put your name on your label, start a line under a different name,” he advises. Though this sounds surprising, the logic behind this advice makes sense. Many labels bearing designers’ names were sold, or bought out by big corporations. “The fashion road is littered with people who had their name bought out from under them and here they are, mid-career, can’t use their own name. Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Halston it’s happened to,” he explained, “Also register your name in every country when you’re starting a line because it’s just important and it’s a drag because it’s expensive to register your trademark.”
Photo courtesy of Michael Bastian.
HAUTE CULTURE
FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY: DESIGN FOR CHANGE
A Book Review by Justine Fitch Fashion has the potential of transforming into one of the most innovative businesses seeking to protect our environment. The book Fashion & Sustainability Design for Change by Kate Fletcher and Lynda Grose, aims to inform those in the fashion industry—designers, manufacturers, producers—and those on the periphery of the industry—politicians, artisans, consumers, business people—on how they can transition into creating a sustainable fashion industry and environment. The book dives into three broad areas the fashion industry can hone in on to enhance sustainability. The first deals with transforming fashion products, which can be achieved by examining the materials used in a garment to the processes, distribution, consumer care and disposal. The second focuses on slowing the process to create more adaptable garments consumers can connect with. Lastly, recommendations by Fletcher and Grose encourage designers to communicate and educate consumers—the end users who can ultimately make a difference. The authors explore opportunities in first improving fashion products by examining resource efficiency, workers’ rights, and reducing chemicals and pollution. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), an estimated 20,000 lives may be saved
each year by reducing toxicity in water and soil during the treatment of cotton. Workers also face long hours and abuse with no bargaining abilities in cut-and-sew factories, conditions that are well-known to those in the industry, but have yet to be improved. As for being more efficient, consumers are not aware that laundering is the biggest cause of pollution in a garment’s life. For example, “the energy needed to launder a polyester garment over the course of its life is around four times the energy needed to make it.” By slowing down fashion production processes, products can become more adaptable and enable consumers to develop emotional connections. According to the authors, “90 percent of clothing is thrown away long before the end of its useful life.” Designers can aim to create garments that are more personalized and trans-seasonal. Designer Lauren Devenney encourages consumers to think differently about their clothes. Devenney is creating garments that are odor-resistant but not stain resistant. Stains, she maintains, actually add fashion appeal and visual interest. Some designers are even creating T-shirts that are designed to wrinkle so that ironing—which takes up as much energy as does washing—is eliminated. Many designers are too worried about keeping up with up trends in order to generate a larger profit. While it may be difficult to step outside of the mainstream, designers have the ability go beyond the norm and satisfy both public and ecological demands. Hang tags are just one of the options in educating customers about the sustainable appeals of the clothes they are purchasing.
FIT
MR. OIZO
A Concert Review by Francesca Beltran He did it again. For the second time since I moved to New York, Quentin Dupieux, aka Mr. Oizo, transformed what I thought would be a good concert, into one of the best parties I’ve been to. There’s something about the French DJ that sets him apart from the now saturated world of electronic music. Not to dance to his music is impossible. You don’t care about the sweating, the spilled drinks, or the cute guys around you… you just want to dance. Every time I go to an electronic music concert, at first I am not sure why I am there. This time, I got in and the opening DJ, Fat and Ugly, was already playing music to a half full venue. I listened to the beats and danced; the music was good but somehow I felt like it was not good enough for a Friday night. Then it happened. At approximately 1 AM the lights were turned off and the stage-background was lit, revealing a wall-to-wall dark screen filled with lights that resembled stars. In this starry scenery, Mr. Oizo took over the stage, and from the first song, reminded me why I wanted to be there.
It’s hard to explain the euphoria and energy that flows in these kinds of concerts. For one, the event is as much a concert as it is a party. In it, the world literally disappears and the music becomes the main thing you care about… the only thing, actually. The venue was packed with more than 2,000 party kids who, smiling and with hands in the air, danced compulsively to the powerful electronic beats and distorted bass sounds. The party, hosted by Girls and Boys, is one of the biggest electronic parties in New York City. Every Friday, it takes over the Great Ballroom at Webster Hall to feature some of the greatest names in the electronic music scene. After hours of making the crowd dance non-stop, at 4 AM, Mr. Oizo left the still completely packed room, not before shaking hands with the kids that were right up front, showing how charming French guys can be.
That Holding Your Own Financially Gives You Power. What surprised me most when reading this book was realizing how thorough Argov was regarding her research for its content. She interviewed hundreds of men, as well as women, and the responses she received are both candid and enlightening. This is most evident in Chapter Seven: The Other Team’s Secret Play Book—Things You Suspected But Never Heard Him Say. Overall, I believe Why Men Love Bitches is one book that every woman out there, single or otherwise, needs to read. Though I do
have my doubts concerning some of Argov’s advice (see Chapter Four: Dumb Like a Fox—How To Convince Him He’s In Control While You Run the Show), the majority of the author’s writing consists of straightforward information that is both relatable and valuable to women everywhere.
WHY MEN LOVE BITCHES A Book Review by Alessandra Della Vecchia Are you a “nice” girl?” Or are you a “bitch?” These questions are the primary focus of comedian and radio show host, Sherry Argov’s latest book, Why Men Love Bitches. The term “bitch” here is not intended to be derogatory. In fact, Argov sees being a “bitch” as a very good thing when it comes to dating and relationships. “I’m not recommending that a woman have an abrasive disposition,” Argov writes. “The woman I’m describing is kind yet strong. She doesn’t give up her life, and she won’t chase a man.” Sounds good right? To all the single ladies out there: read on.
The book is broken up into ten chapters and covers a wide range of common issues among women who are either in a relationship or strive towards being in one. Each chapter has a clever title with a more serious sub-title, which gives the reader a notion of the advice that follows. My favorites are: Chapter Three: The Candy Store—How to Make the Most of Your Feminine and Sexual Powers, Chapter Five: Jumping Through Hoops Like a Circus Poodle—When Women Give Themselves Up and Become Needy, and Chapter Eight: Keeping Your Pink Slip—The Reasons
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MARLEY
A Film Review by Fernanda deSouza You know his dreadlocks, you know his songs, but you don’t know the man. Academy Award-winning director Kevin Macdonald delves into reggae icon Bob Marley’s life in his new documentary Marley. Detailing the singer’s life, Marley comprises
a deeply constructed and insightful look into one of Jamaica’s most celebrated personas. Hailing from the backcountry slums of St. Ann, Jamaica, Robert Nesta Marley saw a way out— through music. Falling victim to an age when music was undergoing a metamorphic stage, Marley grasped at this opportunity and turned a passion into a new spectrum of music. Reggae was suddenly born and he was feeding its ever-growing fire. It’s clear that Marley harnessed this new wave of music and was ready to introduce the world to his new creation. Marley continued to play prophet to the political and social issues that rocked both Jamaica and Africa, and had strong beliefs that the messages delivered through his songs, as well as the roots of the Rastafari movement, could present to the masses a sense of salvation. Marley’s sole mission became to bring people together. This idea tagged on so early in his career that people felt Marley could actually heal Jamaica. “I’m for
APRIL 2012 people,” stated Marley,“My richness is my life.” Macdonald brought Bob Marley to life in this extraordinarily constructed and long awaited documentary. Macdonald never shies away from delivering the most intimate details about Marley and touched on every aspect of the singer’s life. Spanning over two hours of collected footage, Macdonald compresses family and friend interviews (even Ziggy makes an appearance), archive footage of Marley himself, and his music, to show the impact that he left behind. The most prominent shots were of Marley’s performances, nothing short of abundant in this documentary, the relationship he shared with each beat of each song was magically captured with every thrust of his body in dance and facial expression on stage—he become one with the music. ^Marley opens in theaters April 20th
NOSE BLEED AT FUSE A Gallery Review by Desmond Zhengs “Nose bleed is a phrase people used to say in the 90s where if you go above 14th Street where the rich live, you will get a nosebleed,” said Erik Foss, curator of Nose Bleed group show at Fuse Gallery. Located at the back of Lit Lounge, a typical East Village bar haunt with a downtown vibe and equally downtown art pieces. Nonchalant, playful pieces were carefully curated to the running theme of Gentrification. Foss went on to explain, “East Village used to be the ghetto, but in the past six to seven years it has been so commercialized. Now money is spread around all over the city, not just past 14th Street.” The exhibition is a symbolic preservation of the spirit of grittiness and realness in the neighborhood, now a gentrified downtown area where artists used to work and live. The true essence of downtown living is immortalized through spray painted, illustrated, embroidered, painted, and glued together pieces, and in photographs of carefree shenanigans. The 3D pieces that hang alongside pop art, graphic art, and a colorful tapestry by Sara Rahbar, echoed of her famed flag series. They linger with embroidered point effects and cartoonish figures. Nose Bleed consists of pieces from a sea of talented and established artists from Steve Ellis’s Cocainic Nosebleed, Linda Grigg’s cross-burning Urine Mourining-Serrano Homage, Joe Robert’s B4 The Internet and Alyssa Monks’s Glow, an oil painting that blurs into a human form peaking through a steam filter, to a portrait of a haloed McCaulay Culkin by art student, Isabelle Constan-Toth. Noted sculptor Richard Serra’s nephew Ivory Serra, who has photographed numerous celebrities and has had features in i-D, Vogue,Paper
Magazine and Rolling Stone, documented a serious of used cigarette boxes. His brother Shelter’s recreations of a homemade Hermes Birkin Bag and fake Rolexes are nowhere to be found, instead a faux old LED open sign stood in its place, perhaps a less gentrified object matter. A makeshift cuckoo clock with a background image of sexually restrained middle-aged men might not fully explain the homage to the downtown spirit, but perhaps a 1971 photograph of controversial photographer Robert Mapplethorpe by Anton Perich could. He is a champion of homoeroticism after all. With seemingly unexpected combinations, it is easy to simply write off the show as another display of downtown kitsch, but look closer and you will find a vivid sense of pride and nostalgia. ^Nose Bleed group show runs through April 25th at Fuse Gallery.
Tapestry by artist Sarah Rahbar, photo courtesy of Fuse Gallery.
THE CITY SKINNY
THE AERIAL HOOP
Photo of aerial hoopist, courtesy of poleriders. blogspot.com.
By Keely Shea-Smith Having been attending kickboxing Saturday mornings this past month, my post-workout pain has decreased and muscle mass has slowly increased. However, the itch to try something different is always present. FIT Jewelry Design student Jalnar Dhanani, is currently participating in a work study at Body & Pole on 27th Street. Jalnar’s Facebook posts, featuring a few aerial hoop tricks, immediately sent me to the company’s website to purchase a place in an aerial hoop class. My arrival at the studio was met with a brightly lit reception room, energetic music, and cheers coming from the surrounding studios. After signing a release form, I ventured into the changing room- a rectangular space with lockers, mirrors, and two changing areas partitioned by curtains. At 7:45 PM, two French doors opened to reveal a tiny room with soft lighting and a fully mirrored wall. Two hoops were quickly installed in the ceiling, and with the arrival of two other participants the class began. Jen James, our petite and lithe instructor, lead the three of us through a brief warm up to a playlist of jazz and pop music. Before attending the class, Jalnar gave me some advice, which turned out to be crucial in my experience. She recommended wearing yoga pants, as I would be hanging from the hoop by my knees. The second piece of advice was to not compare myself to the other girls. “It’s easy to get frustrated because sometimes someone will do a trick with ease
and you might not get it that try or that day,” she explained. As the two other girls tucked and lifted their bodies onto the hoops with ease, I struggled, my body flopping like a fish out of water. My competitive spirit kicked in, but was slowly deflated. Wasn’t there an alternative for beginners like most workouts? Am I seriously this out of shape? Despite my questioning, I kept Jalnar’s advice in mind throughout the session and tried furiously to keep my state of mind intact. The tricks were intricate, and a strong grip and solid core proved to be essential. I learned how to do various tricks like “the mermaid” and was successful at “skinning the cat,” a slow and controlled dismount off of the hoop. At the end of class, my ego hurt more than my muscles and I vowed to improve my upper body strength before my next class. The next day, I suffered from some SERIOUS brush burns on the underside of my knees and was beyond thankful for Jalnar’s previous recommendation of pants. Days later, my arm muscles ached and my arms proved useless, idling limply at my sides. I was a bit frustrated with my experience, but realized this exercise is a fun activity that requires a ton of practice and a lot of hard work. With some more upper body work, I will definitely be back to conquer aerial hoop! Website: http://bodyandpole.com/ *Special first class fee: $25
HAUTE CULTURE
FIT
18
MONTH IN REVIEW By Nicole Tan
KONY 2012: THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY. KONY 2012 WAS A SENSATIONAL 30 MINUTE VIDEO THAT WENT VIRAL, GARNERING 9.6 MILLION YOUTUBE VIEWS BY THE END OF THE DAY IT WENT LIVE, ON MARCH 7TH, AND CURRENTLY HAS OVER 80 MILLION VIEWS. ASIDE FROM JOSEPH KONY, THE CAMPAIGN FOCUSES ON THE POWER OR DETRIMENTAL EFFECTS A PERSUASIVE VIRAL VIDEO CAN HAVE IN TODAY’S DIGITAL SOCIETY. THIS TIMELINE ATTEMPTS TO DOCUMENT THE BIRTH OF THE VIDEO AND THE ONGOING AFTERMATH SINCE IT WENT LIVE:
The Good | March 7th, 2012: Kony 2012 goes viral. Joseph Kony, the leader of the Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA) is exposed. Active in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Central African Republic and South Sudan, Kony is responsible for abducting children to be war soldiers and sex slaves. Celebrities jump onboard the buzz with Oprah, P. Diddy, Don Cheadle and President Obama issuing statements and comments about the video. Individuals also respond to the buzz, videos are shared and posted, and suddenly, everyone knows where Uganda is.
The Bad | March 11th, 2012: Critics respond to the viral sensation. Timothy Klayegeria, a well-known social critic in Uganda who once published a newsletter called The Uganda Record, stated, “There is no historical context. It’s more like a fashion thing.” Many Ugandans were upset, saying that the video has oversimplified the situation which has long been entangled in Africa’s history. Critics also pointed out that Kony moved out of Uganda in 2006.
The Ugly | March 15th: Russell is detained in San Diego, California for public drunkenness, vandalizing cars and public masturbation. Invisible Children CEO Ben Keesy issued a statement stating that Russell was hospitalized, suffering from exhaustion, dehydration and malnutrition.
March 13th: Invisible Children comes under scrutiny. The media published the campaign’s documents, stating that out of the almost $8.7 million that went to the fund in 2011, only 32% went to direct services, with the rest spent on salaries, film, travel and transport. Others commented on an image that was published depicting the founders of Invisible Children with generals of the Sudan People’s Liberation Army, a rival terrorist group who although works against the LRA, is still accused of raping and looting the people of Uganda.
April 20th: Youths are asked to take the street to “make Joseph Kony famous.” Event pages on Facebook were set up almost instantly for teens and college students to take the st age at public venues and voice their support for Invisible Children’s goal. Invisible Children is is a global community of young people that galvanized international support to bring a permanent end to LRA violence through mass awareness campaigns and strategic advocacy efforts. By focusing on a single objective, we’ve rallied millions of people behind the idea that human life is equal and that where you live shouldn’t determine whether you live. [source: Invisible Children’s website]
SAYING ‘YES’ TO GUNS Dale Regan, the Head of School for Episcopal School of Jacksonville was shot by Shane Schumerth, a Spanish teacher whom she had fired moments before. Schumerth then shot himself with his AK-47 rifle. That same week, on March a jury found Virginia Tech negligent for delaying a campus warning in the 2007 massacre that left 33 dead. Neither of these occurrences served as a wake-up call to the 12 states that have embarked on a path to loosen gun control. The new law, if passed, would eliminate permit requirements to carry concealed weapons. It is a huge relief to the public that Republican Gov. Dennis Daugaard had vetoed the bill to allow any resident 18 and older with a valid state
drivers’ license to carry a concealed gun without having to obtain a permit on March 16th. However, discussions and debates are still ongoing with an attempt to overturn the governor’s veto, which fell two votes short of needing a two-thirds majority to override Daugaard’s veto. The debate centers between Andrew Arulandam, a spokesman for the NRA’s Institute for Legisliative Action, and Mike Milstead, a Minnehaha County Sheriff.As stated by Arulandam, “criminals by definition break the law, criminals don’t buy firearms by legal means, and they certainly aren’t going to submit to background checks.” Milstead disagrees stating, “The current process we have for issuing
concealed carry permits is very easy and helps us to identify people who, because of mental health issues or criminal convictions, shouldn’t be carrying a concealed weapon or issued a concealed carry permit,” said Milstead.” The bill as it was written was going to eliminate that process and have people more or less self regulate whether or not they were qualified to carry.” Hitting closer to home, Alexandrea J. Ravenelle, a professor who teaches in various colleges in New York City, including the Fashion Institute of Technology, wrote an Opinion article in The New York Times commenting on the fact that teachers too, need trust and security, especially with such
highly publicized shootings such as Virginia Tech and the recent shooting at the Episcopal School of Jacksonville. “I know I’m not the only teacher who, facing down an angry student, worries that he could come back firing off more than snide comments,” she stated, “The levels of trust and openness that are necessary for teaching are diminished every time someone opens fire in a classroom. Idle comments become vaguely menacing threats.” States that have been or are considering bills in current legislative sessions include Colorado, Iowa, Georgia, Kentucky, Maine, New Hampshire, Ohio, Oklahoma, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota and Virginia, according to the NRA.
President, Gary D. Cohn of Goldman Sachs, who were singled out in the article. He stated, “Everyone is entitled to his or her opinion. But, it is unfortunate that an individual opinion about Goldman Sachs is amplified in a newspaper and speaks louder than the regular, detailed and intensive feedback you have provided the firm and independent, public surveys of workplace environments.” Responses from the public ranged from outcries of the public that echoed the 2008 financial crisis to
those supporting either Smith or Goldman Sachs. Other less direct responses came from Table Tennis Nation on getting tips about Mr. Smith’s ping pong prowess (proving a decent table tennis player, Smith represented South Africa twice in the World Maccabiah Games in Israel), to Azam Ahmet of DealBook and Jackie Calmes commenting on the tough start Sachs’ new public relations chief, Richard Siewert Jr, will face.
GOLDMAN SACHS: THE REALITY On March 14th, 2012, Executive Director Greg Smith of Goldman Sachs decided to quit his job via The New York Times Op-Ed page. The news hit that Wednesday morning and both online and corporate world were abuzz. Smith had described Goldman Sachs as the most “toxic and destructive [he] had ever seen,” and as a company which placed its own financial interests ahead of its clients. The article, or more accurately put, resignation letter, was titled “Why I Am Leaving Goldman Sachs.”
Upon publication, The New York Times’ DealBook live-blogged reactions, and a Goldman Sachs spokesperson responded to the article stating, “We disagree with the views expressed, which we don’t think reflect the way we run our business. In our view, we will only be successful if our clients are successful. This fundamental truth lies at the heart of how we conduct ourselves.” An internal memo was also circulated within Goldman Sachs written by the current Chief Executive Officer, Lloyd C. Blankfein, and the
FIT SPEAKS
APRIL 2012
Reply to “Would You Date: The Fashion Student” By Nicole Tan
THE FOLLOWING IS A RESPONSE TO AN ARTICLE DIRECTED TOWARDS FASHION STUDENTS OF NEW YORK CITY, AND IN PARTICULAR, STUDENTS FROM THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY (FIT). THE ARTICLE WAS POSTED ON ELITEDAILY.COM, TITLED “WOULD YOU DATE: THE FASHION STUDENT” ON FEBRUARY 13TH, 2012. THIS IS MY PERSONAL RESPONSE TO THE ARTICLE.
Photo courtesy of jamesweberstudio. wordpress.com
Disclaimer: I am a fashion student who, like many at FIT, manage to juggle interning, working, taking full credits every semester—all while maintaining a good GPA and partying hard. I also have an inkling of suspicion that these so-called “elites” are posing as someone they are not and have not yet reached Tatler status; rather, they are bitter men in finance who are reminded of the atrocities of their reality as they step into a workplace much resembling battery farm chickens churning out golden eggs in the form of digital dollar signs for their institutions. Ah, to be a coveted young fashion student in New York. We are taught to have the decency of Marilyn Monroe, the dress sense of Anna Dello Russo and the capabilities to offer the men in suits of New York—if not just a decent physical f*ck—an incredible mindf*ck. So much so, that an article was written in honor (or judgement?) of our behavior. Instead of getting my knickers in a knot, I will be the first to say, in all honesty, that the article does depict the stereotype of fashion students quite accurately. Of course in every stereotype, exceptions exist.
First off, let’s justify the article’s deliberate aim at FIT’s business majors. Realistically speaking, most fashion design students do not even have the luxury of stepping away from their sewing machines on weekends, while communication design majors and the like are usually found squinting in front of desktops until the wee hours manipulating lines, layers and pixels on one of Adobe’s softwares. So yes, the students stumbling on the cobble-stoned streets at 4 am, looking for a nonexistent cab or a slice of post-blackout Artichoke pizza in the Meatpacking District would most likely be coming from Jay and Patty Baker’s school, of which, a large percentage is in FMM, statistically-speaking. My advice? Don’t try to challenge the uneven path. Make wedges your choice of shoes the next time you intend on having a night of belligerence and instability. As college students in New York City, we’ve been forced to grow up faster. As fashion students, the industry’s nature and our school culture demand work in the ‘real world’ before we were given the chance to identify the difference between an internship and slave labor. Our dorms are prime targets to amateur promoters, who seek and evaluate us by headcount and body mass, making naive freshmen prey to the prowling ‘finance’ crowd in so-called ‘exclusive’ clubs such as Tenjune, OneOak, Griffin and SL. It is not that all of us are moneyhungry gold diggers; we’ve wisened up to the difference between a first year analyst and a seasoned private equity banker. In a pool of potential partners, if one is searching in the clubs of New York, eligible lads options are few and far between. Fashion, like finance, is a very stigmatized industry dominated by New York’s media these days. In some way, we all fit into the stereotype, no matter how far we might try to derail ourselves from it. I might question my decision on certain days about completing my degree at a fashion school, and I might question it again when out on a date with a guy who dismisses my intended profession. But as I sit at my internship desk, surrounded by interns and freelancers from Barnard, NYU and Northwestern, I am assured that we FIT students do get bang for our buck (we pay at least a third of college fees compared to private universities) and that we aren’t so dumb after all. FIT, our education and lifestyle at is not all frivolous. The fast-paced
nature of our industry has made for a ridiculous yet fun, profitable and sometimes politically and ethically incorrect industry that not many outside of the fashion realm understand. Due to the many factors affecting the business, we are required to have a wide base of knowledge outside of fashion. We are avid readers of WWD, the Times, Wall Street Journal and The Economist—making us great conversationalists on current affairs. We might not be in an industry that handles huge monetary assets, but what our industry handles and controls, psychologically, trumps others. Fashion has the power to control the public’s self esteem: We can dictate whether a look is in or out, and we hold the key in establishing one’s status symbol. It’s also only in this industry do such unjustifiable cravings exist for that want of the next ‘it’ accessory, even if the mark-up price seems to be soaring above 1000%. As for the Louboutins on our feet, they are most likely bought as a treat to ourselves, most likely earned, admittedly, by commission in a retail store like Scoop. We obtain deep discounts scouting out sample sales thanks to our high adaptability rate to new social media platforms or through a friend who works at Barney’s or Sak’s. Fashion school graduates might have a measly starting salary, but that does not mean we’d stoop to the level of escorting for luxury. Like you said, we’re better off using our mouths for verbal articulation as opposed to physicallydemanding throat contortions. To conclude, dear male “elites”, the two things standing between me and a long-term relationship with you, is your incompetence to see beyond numbers and figures (both literally and figuratively) and my ambitions. Like lots of men in finance, we don’t like to be invested on worthless stocks. So, when we sense that our most valued asset— our future—could be at risk, we’ll be hitting that sell key faster than your stubby fingers can. It’s not that we’re heartles. Time is, after all, the preferred currency of busy fashion students.
FIT SPEAKS
FIT
20
You Never Know Where the Night Might Take You
The city that never sleeps, courtesy of aroundnewyork.org
By Caroline Whiteley New York is the center of the universe. At least that’s what books, movies, TV shows and tourist guides tell us. That’s why we’re here, right? We want the hustle and bustle of crowded streets and anonymous faces swiftly passing by. We want the adventure and the excitement. Coming from Hamburg, the second largest city in Germany, I was always comfortable in an urban surrounding, so moving to New York wasn’t so much of a transition for me – or so I thought. Who would’ve
known that it could be so hard for a night owl like me to find nocturnal fun in a city as notoriously adventurous as New York? It’s been said that New York’s edgy nightlife has been declining since the 90’s, when music venues and nightclubs made way for yoga studios and chain coffee shops. After all, neighborhoods known for their counter-culture like Greenwich Village and the Lower East Side have now become some of the most expensive areas in Manhattan. But I
London Calling: To The Faraway Towns By Ryann Foulke When I landed in London, all my previous thoughts and expectations for the semester were promptly abandoned. I previously thought I would become a part of the jet set, floating between Italy, Amsterdam, Hungary and Greece every weekend. But I’m glad to say that didn’t happen. Instead, I fell in love with London, and in London. This, of course, made it difficult to leave the city. I wanted to get to know everything about London—its secrets, its hidden spots, beautiful squares and circuses. Having my own personal tour guide, complete with an accent and delicious kisses, was a lovely bonus. However, I did manage to get away, pulling myself from London for a couple of weekends. I ate a full English breakfast in Wales, enjoyed the spoils of Amsterdam, and devoured a Belgian waffle, avec
des fraises, in Brussels; ordered my meal in French in Paris, soaking up the canal architecture and binging on pomme frites with mayonnaise. It was of course so lovely and I want to go back to every country I went to and more. I didn’t feel like I saw enough of them and I felt a bit hollow after leaving them, like I didn’t experience enough. Others I had spoken to who studied abroad in London didn’t have the same wonderful experience in the city as I did. They spent all of their money visiting tourist spots in foreign countries. A day, maybe two was spent in each. They came back poor in one of the most expensive cities in the world. They only experienced London as a layover spot, there on the weekdays without any money, just catching up on sleep and attending classes. I didn’t think it was fair to spend just a weekend
refuse to believe that New York has lost its charm, and I refuse to believe that the only option of going out here entails nothing but hanging out in clubs blasting Rihanna and charging $15 for a mojito, or being herded into a crowded corner at 1Oak like cattle by a promoter. Sure, I could boycott clubs in general, but I’m European. We don’t stay in on a Friday night. Luckily, this is New York and one of the city’s specialties is diversity. You simply have to find your niche. Realizing that 24-hour clubs
in a country. What can you possibly discover in 48 hours? After three and a half months in London, I still feel like I only grazed the surface. But I promise you, I did try. Every weekend I found a different street market to call my own. I tried not to buy clothes I could find in America, so I scoured vintage stalls, trying on leather skirts and antique sunglasses in the street with the rest of the Londoners. I bustled down Columbia Flower Market, just steps away from my flat in Hoxton where Azealia Banks had performed in the square the night before. I learned the tube system and rode the massive crimson double decker buses nightly, coming home with a plate of hot chips in my hand from one underground bar or another. I spent most of my money on food (read: cheese). I even went so far as to take about a pound of English cheddar back on the plane with me. Customs took my jar of creamed honey but allowed me the cheese after seeing my pleading face. One morning on the tube I realized they all thought I was one of them. Until I opened my mouth, for all they
packed with hundreds of underground techno fans isn't really the scene here was hard at first, but I’ve learned to adjust and appreciate how different people go out here. One of the positive things I’ve noticed is that there’s a greater appreciation for a good concert. If people like a band, they will dance to it like crazy because they know how fast shows sell out. There’s no endless contemplating about whether or not to go see a show. If a band you like is playing you will go, no doubt on your mind. And there will almost always be an after party. The most annoying and yet fantastic thing about New York is that the best parties happen either in secret, or by accident. Warehouse parties, art gallery openings and loft parties are fun ways to spend your night. Granted, these gems are incredibly hard to find, but with a little research and some luck, you might find yourself stumbling into a rooftop party hosted by someone friendly enough to let you in. One of my most memorable experiences occurred when I was walking around The Village with some french boys I had met at a show. (Even though Paris is more than three thousand miles away, you will eventually notice that the city is filled with french boys.) We were almost about to give up on trying to find a bar that would let us in, when we saw a group of people standing on the balcony of an incredible loft-style apartment. It only took a bit of charm to convince the host to buzz us up and within minutes we found ourselves in the midst of an NYU party with a rooftop garden. In this town, a little bit of luck can go a long way, and you never know where the night might take you.
knew I had lived in London my whole life. I found this quite empowering. In London, I became the person I always wanted to be. I tried everything: ate Vietnamese, Indian, Moroccan, went out whenever someone asked, bought a ticket to a play for one. I visited all the museums weekly and filled every moment of my trip with culture, food, and love.
Ryann in London, courtesy of the author.
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the [skinny] on skinny
APRIL 2012
Fernanda DeSouza & Rich Gilmartin Let’s face it—the thought of us “not being skinny enough” has crossed our minds, especially while attending school in the fashion capitol of the world. This ideal has even seeped into the social media platforms like Pinterest’s “Thinspiration” boards where users tag inspiration to lose weight. The age of beautiful women with curves such as Marilyn Monroes and Brigitte Bardots died when Twiggy, a very thin model, splashed onto the pages of magazines. Thin was in. Suddenly, fashion icons like Mary-Kate Olsen went from a talented child star to being on covers of tabloids with her scandalous battle with anorexia. When did society start caring about the numbers on the scale. From a young age girls are used to seeing Barbie dolls look skinny with big breasts, for instance the Slumber-Party Barbie: the quintessential image of perfection, fully equipped with pajamas, a scale (set on 110lbs), and a “How To Lose Weight” guide. No.1 Rule: Don’t Eat. Since when did we start listening to a plastic doll who doesn’t need eat to survive? The average FIT student is nothing short of being fit. Most students utilize the school’s gym or have outside memberships. They more
often than not practice a healthy diet and lifestyle than the typical college student. However, being exposed to comments like Karl Lagerfeld’s deeming Adele’s weight and fashion magazine spreads with skeletal models, leads us all to look at ourselves in the mirror on a constant basis and wonder: am I thin enough? Have we reached the stage of denial? Strutting down the street in the wrong sized clothing not only – let’s face it—looks bad, but also can attract the wrong attention. Dressing for your body type is a factor to be considered when harnessing a healthy body image. Having the right idols can influence acceptance of one’s weight. Idealizing those such as Jennifer Lawrence and Beyoncé, who celebrate their curves, only reinforces a positive attitude and influences an overall perception of beauty. Women aren’t the only ones susceptible to unhealthy body image; men can be just as vulnerable. “Manorexia” is a trend on the rise in America and studies have shown that over one million men in America suffer from anorexia. While we learn to embrace our curves, let’s not forget that all body types are beautiful, skinny as well as curvy. Looking in the mirror should
never be a frightening experience. Confidence in oneself outshines any flaws one may thinks they have and by practicing a healthy lifestyle, that confidence comes naturally. Why be afraid of food? Mixing exercise and optimism in your dayto-day living never hurt. So go ahead, eat up!
A Perspective on America’s Body Image By Thomas Noble It goes without saying that women have made tremendous strides since the days of our parents and grandparents. Many challenges that have traditionally kept women from fully realizing their potential in the workplace and achieving satisfaction in their personal lives have been met and overcome. If I had not known any better, I would say that young women in America today are being raised in an environment that is just as conducive to success and happiness as the environment in which their male counterparts are raised. But I do know better. As a young college student, I see many examples of a particular form of gender inequality first hand. A few months ago, I went to visit the home of an old female friend of mine, and found her and one of her sorority sisters watching a reality TV show called “My 600 Pound Life.” Not a fan of reality TV, I asked them why they were watching the show, to which they both replied, in all seriousness, “it makes me not want to eat.” Neither of these women were overweight in any way. Yet, they were still clearly being influenced by our nation’s toxic female body image culture. From a young age, women in America are bombarded with an unhealthy and unrealistic image of what it means to be beautiful, whether it be the toys they play
with as children (Barbie, Bratz) or the media they consume as teenagers and young adults (America’s Next Top Model). Rarely is it ever spoken outright, but the message is continuously being seen and understood by girls across the country: This is beauty. This is healthy. This is what you should be. These lessons are taken in and internalized not just by women, but by their male counterparts as well. Too often have I heard male friends of mine making fun of women behind their back, disparaging their weight and appearance unless they look like the aforementioned unhealthy role models that we have been bombarded with for most of our young lives. It is time to stand up and say no, to reject this propaganda, and to reshape beauty into a healthy, natural physical state that all women can achieve. Only then will our daughters grow up in an environment that lets them know that they are truly equal, and truly beautiful. Editors Note: This piece was submitted by Thomas Noble, a student from American University. He is an International Relations major and a German Language minor student in his junior year.
FIT SPEAKS
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FIT
Mode de Vie Français By Samantha Vance
French macarons, photo courtesy of nathalieseaver.typepad.com.
France and its stunning women have had a hold on me for many years. Their incredibly chic lifestyle, delicious cuisine and fashion just mesmerize me. So naturally, my first few weeks here were spent paying close attention to how these women incorporated these aspects so seamlessly into an attitude. Wandering the streets of Old Nice, I was expecting to find well-managed diets, health regimens and also a bit of guilt at my personal lack of discipline. What I found, however, was puzzling—a paradox even. I stopped to scan a menu that included pasta, ham, mayonnaise and French fries. People were walking with baguettes in hand and friends were lounging at cafés indulging in crepes and gelato. Embedded in the amazing aroma was an intense odor of cigarette smoke. My reaction was more “curious” than “shocked”. If this is the way of life the French have chosen, what’s their secret to enjoying one of the longest life expectancies in Europe (78.2 years old for men and 84.8 for women) whilst mostly staying lean? After comparing my fast-paced, stressful lifestyle in New York to my carefree leisure at Nice, it all became clear to me: By law, the French are entitled to work no more than 35 hours a week, have free health care, prescriptions and five weeks of vacation each year. Each day shops, banks and
markets close down between noon and 2 p.m. for lunch breaks. Meals are to be savored, not devoured, and I have yet to see someone eating while walking or driving. This habit of taking time to eat is said to help with weight control, because the body has time to digest and send out signals of fullness. French food, while inclusive of fatty meats and heavy sauces, is very diverse and always fresh. The lack of preservatives keeps them well and forces them to constantly purchase new produce and meat. As for their consumption of mayonnaise, fatty meats and French fries, turns out that their thin slices of ham baguettes can’t even compare to America’s overstuffed sandwiches and burgers. French sandwiches have nowhere near the calories we cram into ours. Their sweets are world renowned but all relatively petite. While tiny noisette cookies and macarons are heavenly, they don’t possess the 1,554 calories, like Outback’s Chocolate Thunder From Down Under. One thing you don’t see a lot of in France are fitness centers. Spending days at the gym and constantly stepping on the scale is not their way of life. The French are incredibly active outside of their home. Since I moved here, I have walked more than I did in New York, I cycle to most places via the Velobleu bike rental system as well. Promenade des Anglais, Nice’s
main strip of the Mediterranean Sea, is constantly crowded with people jogging, rollerblading, cycling and skateboarding. I was so amazed at the differences in their routine. One would think that moving to a slower paced lifestyle surrounded by French delicacies would allow for the formation of heavier-set body types. However, over the past two months I have been more active, eaten better, cooked more, and hence have lost a noticeable amount of weight (even with all the crepes)!
STYLE ON 27 Photography by Armah Jones
FIT STUDENT ATHLETES ARE JUST AS STYLISH IN THE GYM AS THEY ARE IN THE CLASSROOM. WHATEVER SPORT THEY PLAY, FROM VOLLEYBALL TO TENNIS TO TRACK AND FIELD, THESE ATHLETES HIT THE GROUND RUNNING IN EVERYTHING FROM FLUORESCENT SNEAKERS TO ALL BLACK RUNNING OUTFITS IN THE LATEST HIGH-TECH FABRICS FROM BRANDS SUCH AS NIKE AND UNDER ARMOUR. NO MATTER WHAT THEY WEAR TO A WORKOUT, ONE THING IS CLEAR, THERE’S NOTHING LIKE SHOWING TEAM SPIRIT IN FIT TIGERS GEAR.
Amy Corbin, Senior | Home Products Development Sport: Cross country Why: My parents run so I’ve just always been into running. I’ve even done marathons. Favorite thing about it: It feels great. Advice: Never underestimate what you can do.
Vernon Patrick, Senior | Illustration Sport: Tennis When: Started playing when I was 13. Favorite thing about it: I love the mental aspect of it. Advice: Just get out there and do it.
Laren Curly, Freshman | FMM Sport: Volleyball When: Started in 8th grade playing for school. Favorite thing about it: I love the camaraderie. Advice: Go and see Kerri, the athletic Director.
Sarah Weise, Freshman | FMM Sport: Volleyball How: Started playing on beach teams. Favorite thing about it: The team aspect and I like it because it involves jumping. Advice: Don’t quit. Ever.
Shane Eliasen, Sophomore | FMM Sport: Swimming How: I just decided to sign for first time last season. Favorite thing about it: It’s a great full body workout. Advice: Make sure you can balance team sports with school. But it is worth it.
Cecily Moore, Junior | Fashion Design, Sports Wear Sport: Volley Ball Why and when: Started in 4th following behind my big sister plus it looked fun. Favorite thing about it: I love the quick pace and the importance of team work. Advice: Stop by open gym and just practice.
Jolie Schrager, Sophomore | FMM Sport: Tennis When: Started playing as a child. Favorite thing about it: It’s a fun workout. Advice: You’ve got to practice a lot if you want to become better.
Sarah Grochowoski, Freshman | Fashion Design Sport: Track - Pole vault, hurdles, 4x1 relay When: Started in high school. Favorite thing about it: I love everything about it. It’s just so much fun. Advice: Don’t be afraid to ask about athletics at the school.
THE BODY ISSUE
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W27