October 2013: The Culture Issue by W27 Newspaper

W27

THE CULTURE ISSUE

VOLUME 46 | ISSUE 2 | OCTOBER 2013

OCTOBER 2013

MASTHEAD

FIT

Dianna Mazzone Miriam Lustig Deputy Editors Megan Venere Executive Editor Richard Gilmartin Hermina Sobhraj Senior Editors Dara Kenigsberg Managing Editor Amanda Baldwin Copy Editor Hermina Sobhraj Treasurer

W27Newspaper.com Molly Yarsike Community Manager

Advertising Nathan Sukonik Advertising Manager

Art Kevin Braine Art Director Kelly Millington Courtney Wall Junior Designer Jessica Farkas Domenic Ming Alexander Papakonstantinou Photographers Hermina Sobhraj Nickie P. Stylist Sara Rabin Illustrations

Contributors Amanda Baldwin Britt Bivens Caitlin Corcoran Chloe Dewberry Dana Heyward Christina Macaluso Marissa Mule Kris Ocra Desiree Perez Daniela Rios Zach Rosenbaum Aaron Valentic

Letter from the Editor

Fernanda DeSouza Editor-in-Chief

Two years ago, W27’s editor-in-chief, Taisa Veras, inducted me as the Culture Editor of the newspaper. It was a role never seen before in this publication and I couldn’t have been more ecstatic with the title. Deep down, I knew culture was my passion. Coming to the United States from Brazil at a young age, I was able to ultimately experience what most call “culture shock.” I didn’t speak the language, couldn’t communicate with my teachers or classmates (unless pointing and nodding counts) and couldn’t comprehend why kids drank milk with their lunches. The guys from Red Hot Chili Peppers welcomed me into the world of television–I sat transfixed in front of the television, my first time since arriving to America, as they thrust about in a black and white desert singing “Give It Away.” Barbie dolls could be purchased at the local supermarket. Crayola made thousands of colors I had never seen before. And in school, I learned the hard way between the homophones “due” and “do,” after a

vicious gym teacher made me run laps because I had thought, “Okay! DO the work on this day,” only to find out it was actually due. So I began to devour grammar books and novels, questioned my teachers about everything and anything, avidly listened to my Backstreet Boys albums (I credit the band for teaching me English), and looked up words I didn’t understand in television shows (closed captions on, always) and books in a fancy 1999 electronic translator. Fast forward to 2013. Miley Cyrus replaced the Red Hot Chili Peppers, naked atop a wrecking ball, Google prevents me from ever having to step foot into a library, and Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter and Instagram absorb 75% of my free time and are to blame for most, if not all, my procrastination. It’s okay to wear baggy jeans and have your boxers show, the LGBT community is free to rightful marriage in many parts of the world, eating

John Simone Editorial Faculty Advisor Albert Romano Advertising Faculty Advisor

A FIT STUDENT ASSOCIATION PUBLICATION

ON THE COVER: W27 is PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PLEASE RECYCLE YOUR COPY AFTER READING.

Together, photographer Alexander Papakonstadinou and stylist Hermina Sobhraj captured the essence of this month’s shoot, “East Meets West,” by infusing traditional attire with a modern flair.

organic food is cooler than eating “regular” food, an American president listens to Jay Z, electronic cigarettes have replaced the nicotine patch and Steve Jobs blessed us with a handheld device we can’t live without. Culture is all around us. I felt it very important to dedicate an entire issue to culture because we’re impacted by it and can alter it by our actions. This issue of W27 exposes culture in multiple facets, whether it be analyzing the history of culture in itself, different subcultures, or the culture right here on 27th Street. What other way to appreciate culture than by consuming as much of it as you possibly can? Through travel, studying and learning, media consumption, friends and family: Everything shapes us into who we are and who we will be in the future.

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OCTOBER 2013

CONTENTS On The Block Oh, The Places You’ll Go: An AMC Networking Event Legal Column: Intern Culture Future Mode: Olivia Vessey Faculty Spotlight: Woman of Steele 20/20 Vision: Revealing Warby Parker’s Success What the Health?

Dear Industry 10 11

The Party is Over: What Happened to Fashion’s Night Out? Beauty Buzz: Take it All Off (Your Makeup That Is!)

Feature 12 13 14 16 17 18

Allen Ying: Reframing Skateboarding Culture Maria Teresa Sampedro of Promostyl Americas Fashion Editorial: East Meets West Charlie’s the Man Soapbox Culture Month in Review

Haute Culture 20 20 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 24 25

Film Review: We Are What We Are Film Review: Prisoners Book Review: Refashioned Theater Review: Romeo & Juliet Concert Review: Global Citizen Festival Concert Review: Atlas Genius DUMBO Art Festival Photoville Museum Review: The Studio Museum America’s Love Affair with Television Anti-Heroes French Senate Passes Ban on Beauty Pageants, Should We?

lETTER FROM THE art Director

4 4 5 6 8 9

FIT Speaks 25 26 26 27

The Agony and Ecstasy Of Pop Culture for Today’s Youth The Culture of Culture “We Can’t Stop” Miley Cyrus OYB: Arthur Avenue, Bronx

Style on 27

W27 is looking for a new Advertising Manager. Responsibilities include managing and contacting outside businesses who potentially want to advertise within this publication. Interested Students should contact Fernanda DeSouza at w27newspaper@gmail.com

I’ve never really thought about what “culture” means to me. I think my first reaction to culture is heritage. I’m of mostly Irish and Italian descent but have never considered myself someone who is very in touch with my background. However, art is also a huge part of culture. Whether it be a Renaissance painting or graffiti on the buildings of New York, I believe art is a constant expression of culture. I want W27 to stand out as a big part of FIT’s own culture. We’re a diverse school with a lot of talent (as evidenced by the outstanding layouts in this issue created with the help Courtney Wall and Kelly Millington as

well as the impressive illustrations by Sara Rabin) and have created a culture of our own. Aesthetics are important for establishing the culture of our newspaper– we work to create visually appealing issues that help showcase the talent and exceptional writing FIT has to offer. I hope the readers enjoy this issue and are inspired to explore their own art and culture.

ON THE BLOCK Oh, The Places You’ll Go: An AMC Networking Event by Caitlin Corcoran

Spruce up that resume and come dressed to impress, because the AMC Career Expo is coming back to FIT. Inspired by the famous Dr. Seuss book, “Oh The Places You’ll Go,” the 8th Annual networking event will take place on Wednesday, November 13, from 6-8p.m. in the Great Hall. The student-run expo, conducted by Professor Finnerty’s Special Events Marketing class, is a job and internship recruiting event where students in advertising, public relations, marketing, events and media fields have a chance to meet with top industry professionals to find postgraduate jobs and credited internships. This year, companies such as Elie Tahari, Y&R, AG Jeans, WBLS, Urban Daddy,

Rebecca Minkoff and The Creative Group will be in attendance. Along with the opportunity to make lasting connections with companies currently hiring, students who attend will be eligible to win tons of prizes and receive giveaways from sponsors, such as Argo Tea, Bareburger, Enlightened Ice Cream and Regal Theaters. “I had an amazing experience at last year’s expo. I actually ended up receiving an offer from one of the companies that was an exhibitor. I believe anyone who’s looking for a networking experience before they graduate should attend,” stated AMC student Arly Nguyen.

Hannah Reinhardt, an AMC student who attended last year’s Career Expo said, “It was so great seeing all the different job opportunities available to AMC students. I was excited to hand out my resume and talk to potential employers. I’m looking forward to attending the Expo again this year.” New companies are being added everyday to the AMC Career Expo’s website, www. amccareerexpo.com. Updates can also be found on the Twitter page (@AMC_ careerexpo) and Facebook Page (AMC Career Expo 2013).

Intern Culture by Miriam Lustig

An internship can be a valuable addition to any educational track, especially one within a creative field. Often, these internships provide more benefit to the internee by way of practical training and experience than to the employer by way of free, yet untried labor. That is not to say, however, that interns do not get exploited. What starts out as a learning experience can turn into a nightmare if an employer mistakes an eager intern for a work mule and expects them to work insane hours completing menial labor that in no way engenders learning.

wage laws by failing to pay two interns who had worked on the set of Black Swan, starring Natalie Portman in 2010. In his opinion, the judge adopted a six point test, advocated by the Department of Labor, which can be used to decide whether or not an intern can legally go unpaid. The six provisions are as follows:

Interns must be particularly careful given the state of the post-recession employment arena, which has led to an employment squeeze. The Bureau of Labor Statistics reports that unemployment rates are especially high among college students and recent graduates. These qualified workers with developed skillsets are settling for continued work at an intern level, leaving fewer positions for students available at more competitive rates. Companies including Condé Nast, Hearst and Donna Karan International have been sued by past disgruntled interns who alleged that they were unfairly withheld pay because of their non-employee status.

ΩΩ The internship experience is for the benefit of the intern

This past summer, a federal district judge in Manhattan, William H. Pauley III, ruled that Fox Searchlight Pictures had broken New York and federal minimum

ΩΩ The internship, even though it includes actual operation of the facilities of the employer, is similar to training which would be given in an educational environment

ΩΩ The intern does not displace regular employees, but works under close supervision of existing staff ΩΩ The employer that provides the training derives no immediate advantage from the activities of the intern; and on occasion its operations may actually be impeded ΩΩ The intern is not necessarily entitled to a job at the conclusion of the internship ΩΩ The employer and the intern understand that the intern is not entitled to wages for the time spent in the internship

In this case, the courts ruled in favor of the interns. This decision may or may not ultimately work towards the benefit of those interns it tries to protect, however. One the one hand, companies may become more inclined to pay their interns and improve general working and learning conditions provided to interns instead of risking future lawsuit. On the other hand, companies may become more hesitant about hiring interns in the first place, leading to a scarcity of this valuable experience builder. Additionally, this ruling does little to protect interns in other crucial respects. In a recent case, intern Lihuan Wang, alleging sexual harassment, attempted to bring suit against her former employer, Phoenix Satellite Television U.S. According to Bloomberg Businessweek, “The U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York found that because Wang was an unpaid intern, not an employee, she could not bring a claim under the New York City Human Rights Law.” Because interns may work without wage (unless of course the above provisions apply) and are not entitled to other employee benefits, including pension and healthcare, they are not technically considered employees. Therefore, these interns are not always entitled to certain employee protections, some of which are outlined in Title VII of the 1964 Civil Rights Act.

FIT

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OCTOBER 2013

Future Mode:

Olivia Vessey by Marissa Mule

As a young girl I always wondered where my toys came from. Running through the toy store, I remember wondering who makes these, and how are they made? Functioning as miniature sculptures, toys explore design and 3-dimensionality in a unique way. This month I had the opportunity to interview a Toy Design major, and an expert illustrator whose creations are inspired by the toys she wished for as a child. Olivia Vesey revolves her work around the process of creating, while also connecting her artwork toward narrative in an illustrative way. Although Olivia does not see herself as the “most creative,” it is clear her mindset doesn't stop her from creating successful commodities in the art world. While her strengths are a mirror image of her personality and emotions, Olivia does not limit her inspirations for designing, and continues to explore the many possibilities of the world around us. Besides toy design and creating story books, this artist is also challenging herself with the idea of becoming a physician’s assistant, or involving herself in the Marines. Read on to learn more about Vesey, her motivations and her success in the up-andcoming field of toy design

Marissa Mule: Where are you from? Olivia Vesey: I'm from New Fairfield, Connecticut and Westchester. I dorm now, but find it hard to live in the city. I'm practically from the woods! MM: How did you involve yourself in toy design? OV: I started as an Illustration major. Before illustration, I was going to to to medical school to be a physician’s assistant. I realized that may not have been for me, so I applied to FIT. While in illustration, I knew it would be hard to get a job – I knew I wasn't good enough to make a living out of it. So, I began to gravitate toward toy design – it sounded promising. It's difficult, but I've learned so much. Toy design is extremely technical, a big change from illustration. With toy design, you infuse many different techniques such as drafting, graphic design, marker rendering, conceptual design and even patternmaking for a soft toy. I've learned to 3D model, warp patterns for a plush (a stuffed animal), and even how to build a hard toy using different types of machines such as band saws and vacuum forming. MM: How do you come up with an idea for toy design? How long is the process in creating a toy? OV: It's an extremely long process. You start with a seed of an idea, then speak to your teacher and classmates to learn about the different components, like molding clay. After thinking about an idea, you make a presentation board and come up with a logo to describe what the toy does and how it functions. It's an ever growing process – even molding toys. It never ends. MM: Who/what are your inspirations? OV: Uniqueness. It's hard to come up with ideas, and honestly, I don't see myself as the most creative. I like to make things that I would want, or maybe would have wanted when I was younger. And since I practically grew up in the woods, part of my inspiration comes from human nature. I infuse nature and the colors you find in the woods into my designs a lot, especially brown and muted tones. For some reason, dull colors inspire me to incorporate them into children's toys. I'm also big into indie-folk music and I

Illustration by Olivia Vessey

love that certain style that pertain to people of that music genre. I feel like indie-folk music and the woods and nature coincide stylistically and give a nice gentle and sleepy feeling which can be reflected into certain toys to help children feel at ease.

MM: What mediums do you use to create a toy?

OV: We vacuum form over molds of wood and resin, and also use a variety of materials, from clay and plastic, to mechanisms and polystyrene. When you MM: What are your strengths/weaknesses? begin the process of making a plastic mold, you usually start from raw wood blocks or clay. Then you have to mold or sand these OV: My strengths are in storytelling. I'm into your desired shape. With the clay, you taking this story book class and I'm just make a rubber mold of it, and then cast it so into it. I've become too involved in it to the point it has become a mirror of the way with resin plastic. This is usually a process of two days, most of the time going towards I feel. I want to write it and make a series – I don't want to ever stop. My weaknesses the molding of the clay, and the rest to the is that it's hard for me to keep focused and molding of the rubber which has to sit overnight. Once the resin is set, you begin stay motivated. I lose creativity through stress when I'm not in the mood to design. sanding and smoothing up to the finest grain of sandpaper. This takes a while also. To de-stress, I like to go home whenever I can just so I can get away. Even so, I find it With the wood, you have to saw it and sand it smooth, depending on what shape you're difficult to ease my mind when I am away making. Once you have the desired shape, from my work. But I like to walk or when you vacuum form it. The vacuum forming I get the chance, hike or horseback ride. Horseback riding is my therapy, my outlet is a process of melting styrene plastic so it's softened enough to mold to whatever when life and school get out of hand. shape. The vacuum former then sucks MM: Do you have a concentration/thesis in the air from the sealed space between the plastic and the mold that your lever up into toy design? the plastic. This way, the styrene forms around the wooden mold and creates your OV: As a junior I began putting together thin, outer plastic shell of the hard toy. It's a portfolio. As a senior, it's kind of like practically a form of sculpture. there’s two major thesis: making an actual hard toy and a storybook. I think MM: What is your favorite thing about FIT? the concentration is working toward the best we can be in an area of toy design OV: Probably the amazing people I get that we are strong in. Some students are into inventing, and others are into design. to work with, my classmates who are my motivators and inspirations. They are my Personally, I’m into storytelling. I like to write super descriptively, and I believe that safety blanket. I've been so fortunate to it's ok to get over descriptive with children's work with an intelligent group of people and I'll never forget that. This is the stories. I also really love designing and highlight of my life! making my own plush toys. I have always been so obsessed with chubby, little stuffed animals. A designer needs reference, right?

ON THE BLOCK

FIT

Faculty Spotlight:

Woman of Steele by Zachary Rosenbaum

In her 10th year as director and chief curator of the Museum at FIT, fashion powerhouse Dr. Valerie Steele is highly accomplished. With over 20 exhibitions and an innumerable amount of published works under her belt, she’s made the museum a world-renowned American Alliance of Museums accredited exhibition space. It’s not just a resource for the FIT community, but it is free to the general public and any fashion academic can utilize the extensive archive, now with brilliant photographs and elaborate descriptions. I had the opportunity to sit down with Dr. Steele and chat about today’s global culture. Zach Rosenbaum: What is the correlation between culture and fashion? Is one a product of the other? Valerie Steele: Well, the reason I went into studying fashion was because I had gone to Yale to get my doctorate in Modern European Cultural and Intellectual History, and one day I had an epiphany when I suddenly realized that fashion is part of culture… I can do fashion history! I think that we’re used to thinking of things like art and music as being part of culture, but fashion, is of course, part of visual and popular culture.

European fashion and American fashion? VS: Just as the US started out being a colony of Great Britain, there’s no question that American fashion derived from European fashion, but then with large influxes of fashion information later on from all over the globe. I think that American culture is different from various Western European societies, and that’s reflected in fashion. But of course New York is so different than the rest of the US and is really the center of fashion business and interest in America. That being said, there’s a lot more that New

“

People have hated fashion because it can have to do with fame and frivolousness, or can be too much about showing off the body, or boasting about how rich or great you are.

”

ZR: Fashion is a very externally focused concept. In your opinion, what lies inside of fashion, and why do we love it so much?

York has in common with London and Paris than it does with, say, Alabama or Iowa.

VS: Fashion is externally oriented, as it is how you’re presenting yourself to the world, but it obviously has some relation also to how you see yourself, or how you’d like to see yourself. People are both very attracted to fashion because, among other things, it’s very expressive. But they’re also very hostile towards fashion because of a whole range of reasons. People have hated fashion because it can have to do with fame and frivolousness, or can be too much about showing off the body, or boasting about how rich or great you are. I think that people are also attracted to it because it’s a way of presenting a “bella figura,” and presents your best view of yourself to the world.

ZR: Are the lines of fashion blurring interculturally?

ZR: What do you think are the fundamental differences between

ZR: What makes each city unique and interesting?

VS: Oh, I certainly think so! Fashion is becoming much more global. If you envision a fashion shoot, you might find that the photographer could be Japanese, and the model might be Ukrainian and the fashion designer might by English but he’s working for a French house and the magazine is American and then the issue goes out all over the world. You’re definitely getting a much more globalized view of fashion. In Paris this season, a lot of the designers were pitching ideas toward the Asian market, especially the Chinese market.

Photo courtesy: pixel.nymag.com

VS: I never thought I would end up focusing on different national and urban identities. I started out with my research on Parisian fashion, because that was the capital of fashion before everything else (even still now), but for quite a while Italian fashion really had something special about it, particularly when we broke it up into the different regions. The rise of Florence began to push Rome in the shadows, and the rise of Milan then pushed all of that aside, so you see the different elements of capitalism in Italy. Tokyo I just think is a wonderful city. It’s like fashion nirvana! You’ll never see anything like it. So many of the greatest

designers and youth fashion has come from London, so that was a fun show to do because we could track everything from mod, to punk, to Vivienne Westwood and on up through Galliano and McQueen and Chalayan. ZR: Which culture do you find the most fashionable? VS: I don’t think it’s a national or particular city; it’s more like a kind of transglobal self-identified community of people who really love fashion and think a lot about it. When I talk to public audiences, they’ll say, “Don’t you think

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fashion is really just something for rich people?” And I always say, “Imagine there’s a lawyer, and then a hairdresser’s assistant. Abstractly, which one is going to be more fashionable? Naturally, it’s going to be the hairdresser’s assistant, even though he or she has much less money. Isn’t that person much more likely to be interested in fashion, willing to learn about it, looking on the street and on the Internet for cool new looks?” What makes certain cities fashion centers is when there are a lot of people like that. That’s why it’s fun to walk around FIT because there are lots of those people. You create a culture of fashion connoisseurs—fashion performers and observers, people who are knowledgeable about fashion, and people who not so accidentally break the rules. ZR: Do you see any new cities emerging in the fashion matrix? VS: There are quite a few places that are making a name for themselves. I’d love to go back to Beijing and Shanghai, and see what the fashion scene is like there. There’s certainly a tremendous amount of interest in fashion in Latin America. I was just in Cartagena, Colombia, and saw a tremendous interest in fashion among the young people and students. Things were colorful down there and it’s hot as Hades, so you have to dress for that.

OCTOBER 2013

“

That’s why it’s fun to walk around FIT because there are lots of those people. You create a culture of fashion connoisseurs— fashion performers and observers, people who are knowledgeable about fashion, and people who not so accidentally break the rules.

”

ZR: In today’s world, is fashion trickling upwards or downwards?

ZR: Do you think there’s been a boom in menswear?

VS: Mostly it radiates outwards from various originators, and that can start high from a designer like Riccardo Tisci, or it can start on the streets with skateboarders. People are getting sources of information from everywhere. We’re no longer just listening to editors—we’re just as likely to follow bloggers now. You can get ideas from pictures, but most people get a sense of it from what they’re friends are wearing, or what they think looks cool.

VS: Yes! Menswear is selling more and more and getting much more diverse and interesting. That was one of the coolest things in Japan, to see how obsessed young men were with clothes. There was everything from the Japanese take on Savile Row, or the Japanese take on rockabilly or workwear, etc. There’s total emphasis on detail and quality. Men are spending more money on clothing than women. In Kiev, Ukraine there were all of the top menswear brands.

ZR: How has that translated into women’s fashion? VS: Women are now thinking in terms of “how can we get that menswear quality?” After we had the heels that were 11 inches high, suddenly everyone’s wearing lacedup oxfords. ZR: Who do you admire in the fashion industry? VS: I’m crazy about Phoebe Philo from Celine and Rick Owens. Those are two very important and influential designers. I admire tremendously certain fashion writers like Hamish Bowles or certain people in retailing like Linda Fargo. And Bill Cunningham is brilliant. ZR: What can we look forward to from the Museum at FIT in the near future? VS: I’m currently working on a show for next fall on Dance and Fashion. Patricia Mears and I are collaborating on that, because both dance and fashion are embodied art forms that involve movement, so it will be interesting to see how dance costumes have influenced fashion and vice versa. There’s a free fashion symposium in early November, and there are lectures and films almost weekly.

Photo courtesy of multimedia.pol.dk

ON THE BLOCK

FIT

20/20 Vision: Revealing Warby Parker’s Success by Hermina Sobhraj

David Gilboa owned a pair of black titanium-framed eyeglasses worth nearly $700. After a long flight, Gilboa realized a moment too late that he had left those pricey spectacles on his airplane seat, never to be seen again. Frustrated, vision-impaired and short $700, Gilboa arranged a meeting with his classmates, which sparked an idea for what’s now a powerhouse company in eyewear: Warby Parker.

“Warby Parker now has over three hundred employees and four stores across the country.”

But, since 2010, the company has kept their vision intact, selling eyewear starting at $95. This too-goodto-be-true price point baffles many firsttime buyers of Warby Parker: how can a pair of prescription eyeglasses only cost $95? Blumenthal explains that many eyewear companies are owned by industry giant Luxottica, which has artificially inflated prices of frames. Warby Parker eliminates many of the middlemen, like distributors and retailers, and keeps their overhead low by primarily selling online. Using unconventional marketing techniques, Warby Parker reached their projected profits for one year in just three weeks. One such technique, known as the “Warby Parker Class Trip,” involved buying a school bus to tour cross-country to showcase their products. A yacht architect was hired to modify the bus into a “savvy and clean” mini-showroom, aimed at appealing to their target market.

The brand has grown at a tremendous rate since its conception in 2010, managing to do so while challenging the secretive, monopolistic tendencies of the eyewear industry. Most consumers are unaware that Luxottica dominates the industry. Gilboa’s partner, also CEO and founder Neil Blumenthal, addressed FIT students on Sept. 26 in the Katie Murphy Amphitheatre, telling them that “fashionable eyeglasses shouldn’t cost more than an iPhone.” Blumenthal and Gilboa, along with two colleagues, developed a clear-cut mission when they started the business: “to create boutique-quality, classically crafted eyewear at a revolutionary price point.” With $100,000 of their own money, a vintage eyewear designer and “a lot of commitment,” Warby Parker came to life. The standard market price for a pair of eyeglasses is $263, according to the National Association of Vision Care Plans.

Photo courtesy of a.fastcompany.net

Their customer-centric business model has culminated in significant growth and progress. Warby Parker now has over three hundred employees and four stores across the country. Blumenthal noted that although the company has branched out into the retail sector, it was essential for their stores to mimic the minimalistic design of their website. Likewise, their

“Good things will happen if you are deliberate and thoughtful.” non-profit partner, Vision Spring, which empowers women in developing countries to start their own eyewear businesses, has generated more than $230 million in economic impact for lower income individuals.

Photo courtesy of stmedia.startribune.com

Much like their marketing techniques, the company’s quirky name, Warby Parker, was derived from the names of two Jack Kerouac characters: Zagg Parker and Warby Pepper. Kerouac was a beat generation writer both of the founders empathized with, and in this way, the idea itself behind the Warby Parker brand embodies Kerouac’s writings.

“It’s deliberate serendipity,” said Blumenthal, as he wrapped up his speech by thanking his business partners for their dedication and friendship. “Good things will happen if you are deliberate and thoughtful.”

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OCTOBER 2013

What the Health? by Desiree Perez

I remember the first time I ordered a raw fruit and vegetable juice. It sounded delicious and when I saw that carrots and apples were included, I prepared myself for a fruity taste. Much to my dismay, it tasted like a carrot mixed with a cabbage just pulled out of the ground. You can imagine my reaction. Where was the apple flavor that I longed for? Would I ever be able to move onto a juice cleanse like I planned? I didn’t let the taste of juicing keep me from advising others to do it. But there are other problems that may keep you from doing the cleanse correctly– I’ve given you some “juicy” tips below. Don’t sugarcoat it Let’s be frank here and not sugarcoat a raw food juice cleanse. A juice cleanse helps reset your body’s metabolism and detoxifies by building energy to get rid of waste more easily, without the intrusion of excessive toxins. After only a few days, your sugar and acid levels will return to normal. It may be the worst taste you’ve ever come across. But considering the health benefits it has, you’ll probably do what I do: pinch your nose and gulp it down. Try adding something to give it flavor such as ginger roots.

They don’t mix... An important tip is to be aware of what you mix together. Not all fruits and vegetables mix together. Apples are the most flexible when it comes to juicing. It doesn’t affect all people, but in general, it’s better to not mix both fruits and veggies since they require different enzymes when it comes to digestion. By mixing

both, you get stuck with bad digestion and no nutritional intake. It’s preferable to stick with juicing vegetables than fruits since they have more vitamins and less sugar. But if you do have trouble remembering, just stick to eating raw fruits and juicing only the vegetables.

Whole Foods... Don’t buy a juicer that extracts only the juice. This will strip the fruit or vegetable of its pulp, which is filled with healthy properties like fiber. The skin is another important part. Without it, you’ll be missing out on the majority of the vitamins. The pith, the white part that can be found under the skin of an orange and other fruits and greens, is also beneficial. Even the stems you would usually discard of are filled with nutrition.

Not organic? Of course, for every rule there is an exception. This applies to the “keep the skin”

rule. Peel the vegetable or fruit if it’s not organic to avoid adding pesticides to your juice. Washing is okay but it doesn’t help when the pesticides have gone deep into the skin. How long ago the fruit was sprayed is a determinant of how deep the pesticides have sunk in. But peeling the fruit will take away the majority of pesticides as well as the nutrition– there goes your important antioxidants. So it’s best to stick to organic to get the most use of your fruit or veggie.

Natural Beauty: Honey Wax If you’re like me, you’ve probably had bad experiences with razors and depilatory creams. Either you get razor bumps or the aftermath– irritable rashes. A natural alternative would be to wax with honey. Waxing with honey will eliminate the bumps and the breakouts while moisturizing your skin simultaneously. You’ll need: ΩΩ 3 tablespoons of honey (makes a small batch) ΩΩ 4 tablespoons of water ΩΩ 1 tablespoon of sugar ΩΩ Aluminum foil

Don’t save ΩΩ Bowl It may be tempting, especially after making a lot, to save the excess juice for tomorrow’s breakfast or lunch– but you shouldn’t. There is a short time frame between the cutting of a fruit or vegetable and the oxidation process. As we noted, the skin is vital to protecting the nutrients in produce. Once that skin is off, oxidation will begin and nutrients will start losing their properties.

ΩΩ Wax paper ΩΩ Olive oil or coconut oil 1. Mix the honey, water, and sugar in a small pot. 2. Stir and boil until the sugar dissolves and turns into a brown liquid. 3. While the mixture is at a boil, wrap the bowl with aluminum foil. 4. Pour the hot mixture into the foil wrapped bowl. Handle the bowl and mixture with care since it will be really hot. 5. Leave out to cool off for 10 minutes. 6. Now that the mixture is a little cool, you can start applying to the desired areas. You can use a popsicle stick, like at the salon, or you can use a spoon if you’d like. 7. After you’ve applied the honey mixture onto the skin, place the wax paper on top and flatten it as much as you can. Pull quickly when ready. 8. When you’re done, wash off the areas with cool water and dry. 9. Apply a dime size amount of olive oil or coconut oil. This will further moisturize your skin and leave it glistening. You can use whichever one you like best. The olive oil has a stronger smell while the coconut oil doesn’t, but they’ll have the same effect. Recipe was taken from livestrong.com.

dear industry The Party Is Over: What Happened to Fashion’s Night Out? by Aaron Valentic

It’s going, going…it’s gone. What was once the biggest party of the year as exclaimed by many leaders within the fashion industry, Fashion’s Night Out is and will continue to be on a hiatus in the United States. During the 2008 recession, the CFDA, along with Vogue and NYC & Co., created Fashion’s Night Out in order to get consumers excited about shopping again. The event, kicking off in 2009 in New York City, became such an instant success that it reached over 500 cities within the United States and 30 cities around the world by 2010. The event itself was perceived as a huge party, and often a “street festival” that gathered customers into low and high-end stores to view the latest fall collections; all with the hopes of obtaining a posh goodie bag or rubbing shoulders with one of the countless celebrities that attended or hosted these in-store events. But the main drawback at FNO was that customers weren’t really buying anything.

Many designers and stores felt as though they were spending more and more on an event but gaining no profit from it. During FNO, many executives hoped that consumers would move past the celebrity sightings and purchase products. But that was sadly not the outcome. Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, spoke to WWD regarding the cancellation of the event, saying that he “doesn’t think the success of it was measured only by numbers or money, but was really about engagement...Everyone feels we had a great four years. It brought a lot of attention to retail—to fashion’s important place in retail. Everyone feels really proud of what we accomplished, and excited to take those lessons and continuing them throughout the year.” Even though FNO itself has now ended here in New York, the fashion industry nonetheless paid its respects to the city through an event that proved to be much

larger than anticipated.. Mayor Bloomberg told WWD, “Fashion’s Night Out brought great energy, optimism and enthusiasm to the city’s retailers, who make up a thriving part of our economy. We can always count on fashion industry leaders to use their creativity and savvy to benefit New York City — whether they are helping us recover from a national recession, a natural disaster or whatever the next challenge may be.” Likewise, the event also raised over $1 million for the NYC AIDS Fund, a cause which the CFDA has always been a huge supporter. Despite the setback here, Fashion’s Night Out is going global; 19 countries participated in the event this year, with Thailand and Ukraine joining the event for the first time.

W27

OCTOBER 2013

BEAUTY BUZZ:

Take It All Off (Your Makeup, That Is!) by Dianna Mazzone

a lot of face paint to turn yourself from a college student into a party-ready goblin or ghoul. So no matter your plans on October 31st, we urge you to take a few moments to remove your makeup before hitting the sack—trust us, your skin will thank you.

If you’re an avid reader of beauty websites, blogs or magazines, you’ve probably learned a lot about what to put on your face—but not so much about how to get it off. Though it may not be the most glamorous topic, there’s no denying that at the end of the day, even the most expertly executed smoky eye or perfect red lip

needs to be erased—lest your skin suffer the consequences.

Neutrogena Makeup Remover Cleansing Towelettes, $6.49, available at drugstores nationwide.

MAC Cleanse Off Oil, $30, available at MAC.

Clinique Take Off The Day Makeup Remover, $18, available at Sephora.

At the end of a busy day, (or a wild Halloween party) removing your makeup may seem like a truly Herculean task. Stash a pack of Neutrogena’s Makeup Remover Cleansing Towelettes in your nightstand—one swipe and your face will be makeup free and totally refreshed.

Though the word “oil” may be off putting, MAC’s Cleanse Off Oil not only performs well, loosening and dissolving both face and eye makeup in a flash, but also leaves skin feeling soft and rejuvenated. It rinses off easily and leaves little no to residue—all while cutting through even the thickest layers of Halloween makeup.

Clinique has a reputation for gentle but effective products and the brand’s Take off The Day Makeup Remover is certainly no different. Formulated especially for lids, lashes and lips, this liquid remover packs a powerful punch—it easily tackles even the most stubborn, waterproof eye makeup.

But whether you faithfully wash off your makeup or you’re a once-in-a-while sort of girl, at no other time of the year does the need for an effective remover become more universal than Halloween. It takes

FEATURE

FIT

Allen Ying: Reframing Skateboarding Culture by Chloe Dewberry

I find myself surrounded by vegetable vendors at the Union Square Farmers Market looking for the skateboarding photographer at the lavender vendor stand. I can't help but wonder, "What would a skater need lavender for?" It seems very atypical. But then again, so is Allen Ying. When I finally manage to find Allen, FIT alum, at the lavender stand, he greets me with a friendly smile and a shy hello. Looking at Allen, you wouldn’t know that behind his pleasant, laid-back demeanor is the fact that Allen has been experiencing the career-high year of his life right now, but he is.

43 magazine (43 is a skateboarding trick also known as the no comply) is being praised for its pristine design and cuttingedge photography. Each issue features crisp film shots of skaters in their natural habitat on their boards. Allen felt that the need for a different kind of skateboarding magazine was crucial. "It's kind of complex actually, but I really thought that there could be better photography, cleaner presentation and a more authentic representation of real skateboarding in magazines. This is stuff I thought was being left out of other magazines and I thought it could be really worthwhile," Allen said. "43’s goal was to fill the void in terms of nice-quality photography; but now the goal is to cover unrepresented portions of skateboarding." Although the press has only recently taken notice of his skills, Allen has been honing both of his passions since he was a kid. Allen first hopped on a skateboard at the tender age of eleven and picked up a camera a few years later in his teens. Fast-forward a few years and Allen has managed to seamlessly combine both of his passions and turn it into something profitable.

Photography by Domenic Ming

In the past year, Allen has been building a name in the skateboarding photography world and has proven that he has a new vision for the industry. 43, the skateboarding photography magazine Allen started, recently celebrated its third issue release this past summer and has received positive responses from press and skaters alike. Even the more highbrow New York Times took notice and recently wrote a feature article about Allen and his work as the only New York Citybased skateboard photography magazine. No big deal, right?

"I started skating twenty years ago, but I didn't pay attention to the culture of it until about ten years ago. There's a lot more mainstream and big corporate interest and it's been commodified in a lot of ways. I think skateboarding has gone through phases like this before so I feel like this right now is a phase, but it is a lot more expanded so it might not ever go away,” Allen commented about the skate industry today. But he seems hopeful. “On the other hand, there is counter-reaction to that mainstream scene with a smaller independent skate scene. The underground skate scene is growing in reaction to the mainstream part of skating."

his car to avoid getting a parking ticket. Just because he’s becoming downtown skate royalty does not mean he’s exempt from the harsh reality of the unforgiving parking meter. I want to jokingly tell him he should have just skated over to the market, but Allen gives me a glimpse into his hectic on-the-go lifestyle before the joke even leaves my lips: "Oh, man it's crazy. There's a lot of issues with making a magazine; there's so much to do to make an issue and even more work in-between issues. I'm not really pursuing shooting anyone right now because I know that I don't have time for it," he remarks. The man’s a Wall Street-type workaholic, only much more creative. One of the main challenges of putting out magazine material is being a part of other interesting projects that take up time for putting out another issue. As we cross the street towards Allen's car, he elaborates on the difficulties of balancing work time and the state of the magazine industry.

"It's challenging, but it's kind of cool. I like that there's a certain amount of time between each issue. As a new publication, it makes it exciting and I feel that people won't take it for granted. They understand that after an issue it might not exist again." Allen pauses and laughs, "I kind of think of it as teetering on non-existence sometimes even though we're constantly working all of the time." Running a magazine is a full-time job and I can't help but wonder if his busy schedule has taken away some of the fun and enjoyment of skateboarding. But the moment that Allen goes into flashback mode and takes me into his world of skateboarding in New York City in 2001 silences any doubts in my mind. "My favorite place to skate has always been Tompkins Square Park because it's really smooth, flat, chill and open. Also the community there is great and I would always meet a lot of skaters there. We would also skate a lot downtown," he pauses, "I would actually skate here in Union Square a lot at night. You would always meet a bunch of skaters here." Once a skater, always a skater. While the skate scene may have changed, Allen makes it clear that his passion for photography and skateboarding has not changed. As Allen loads his car I finally ask him the question I've been dying to ask our whole conversation: what's the lavender for? "Oh, I got it because it repels rodents if you place it around your spot. I've been using an English lavender this whole time and only recently found out I needed a different kind," Allen stated nonchalantly. This skateboarding photographer is full of surprises and we can only hope he keeps surprising us with new innovative projects in the future.

As we proceeded to walk through the rest of the farmers market, Allen informs me that he has to quickly go and move

Photography by Allen Ying

W27

OCTOBER 2013

Maria Teresa Sampedro of Promostyl Americas by Britt Bivens

As a trend forecaster, FIT alum, Maria Teresa Sampedro, travels to Paris twice a year as well as all over the US to attend trade shows and work with clients. As someone who is constantly discussing trends in fashion and beauty, she has her finger on the pulse and is constantly looking for new sources of inspiration. Promostyl is a global forecasting agency with a network of representatives in all major cities. Like Maria, they help feed information back to the headquarters about what is going on in their country, as well as share the information from the Paris-based creative team with their clients. Trend forecasting is a process. Often it begins with changes in behavior and asking “why are they doing that?” In starting to see something as more than a one-time occurrence, a pattern begins to emerge that shows signs of change. With change comes new needs- products and services- that we as a population desire, and if the timing is right, someone has seen that opportunity and has it ready for us to buy. Trend forecasters often look at outliers, people on the fringes of their world (usually creative in this context) to see the beginnings of the next new thing as they are the early adopters, eager to experiment. Maria not only works with colorists, designers and other in-house trend people about upcoming trends, but also those in the marketing department. As an everincreasing important department in any company as the selling climate gets even more difficult, they have been slower than the design department to understand the need for trends. But with changing demographics, including identification of ethnicities and cultures, the time has come for them to understand the importance of monitoring change and staying ahead. Britt Bivens: As a trend forecaster, what do you think of when we use the word culture? Maria Sampedro: When I think of the word culture, it brings to mind subcultures, rather than biggerpicture groups. For example, I think of underground cultures that are made up of young artists who are experimenting with things and people who have been bubbling and are about to hit their boiling point. I find young people inspiring, as they are always seeking new experiences and often make reckless decisions that inspire great things. The youth is the future, and they give us insight on what is to come. Of course, many of them are inspired by older icons but they always have a fresh take.

BB: How do you see culture influencing trends in your job?

heritage living in NYC, what is your personal experience with “culture”?

MS: I think about the attitudes and behaviors of whom we call “influencers” and their culture. These are people that may be part of high culture or the arts and their ideas eventually inspire everyone from other artists to those who bring it down to the mainstream. The mainstream is also heavily influenced by pop culture, so it’s important that we keep up with that. Inevitably, the clients will bring it up to try and relate it back to other trends that they’re working with. The Internet, or at this point, Internet culture, has changed the consumer- they know more now and have higher expectations. So between that and trends moving faster because of it, we’re kept on our toes.

MS: Growing up in South Florida, I was heavily influenced by both Latin and Jewish cultures, a mix that’s different on the surface but shares many values. My friends and I knew more about Yom Kippur than most people in the US without even trying. Our free time was spent working at our local bagel shop (considered the “cool” place to work). On days off we’d meet up at the fancy Town Center Mall, where we would enjoy Peruvian fast food, or they’d come over to my place for some rice, beans and skirt steak.

BB: When you’re looking at cultural changes for inspiration, how would you talk about that with your clients?

MS: Based on my current obsessions along with my heritage, I’d have to say #miami #chinatown #downtown #guayaquil #beach #youth #riotgurrrl #roitfeld #family #bollywood #Arrozcon-Menestra-y-Carne-Asada-Culture #fashion

MS: I need to think about how they, as a brand, need to relate to what’s going on in culture. There are many influences for inspiration in trends but depending on the client and whom they’re talking to, the message can be presented differently. We’re always looking to see if big changes in society- like dads staying home instead of moms- will have a lasting impact. Our clients make products and need to address new markets, so seeing changes in our everyday culture is really important.

BB: Using hashtags to show which cultures you identify with, what would they be?

BB: On a more personal note, as a Miami native with an Ecuadorian

Photography by Danny Otto

FEATURE

FIT

EAST MEETS WEST Photographer: Alexander Papakonstantinou MODELs: Tae-Kyun Kim ZARA KHALID STYLING: Nickie p. HERMINA sobhraj look one: Traditional Korean Baji pants, Brooklyn Nets jersey shirt and Nike gloves Look two: traditional pakistani Floral Print Kameez with thread embroidery and baseball cap LOOK three (COVER): traditional pakistani black chiffon Kameez with bead and sequin embellishments paired with a cropped leather jacket

W27

OCTOBER 2013

FEATURE

FIT

Charlie’s the Man by Hermina Sobhraj

To you, 27th Street and Seventh Avenue is simply the address of your school, a geographical marker that ensures you’re at the right place. For Charlie the hot dog vendor, that same intersection has defined his business for the last twenty-seven years. Charlie, who was born Kyriakos, has sold hot dogs in front of FIT’s Pomerantz Center since 1986. His bright yellow vending cart, reading “Charlie’s Fashion Beef Hot Dogs,” has integrated itself into FIT’s culture and is more near and dear to some hearts than we realize. He began working after his dad handed down the business to him. “FIT is a great place for me. It’s the students– the people, that make it for me.” In comparison to other areas, 27th and Seventh Avenue is not a prime location for a hot dog vendor. Chelsea’s demographic consists of many weight-conscious dieters and vegan-lovers; not exactly the portrait of Charlie’s ideal customer. What makes him so ingrained in FIT’s culture? His loyalty and affection to the FIT campus. While he agrees that money should be a priority, his environment and surroundings are much more important to him, plus the fact that he’s stuck around for so many years. “People come up to me and say ‘Hello Charlie,’ and that makes the day okay.” Business has fallen off in the last few years, with fewer and fewer customers ordering hot dogs. While Charlie has considered updating some of his menu items, from beef hot dogs and pretzels to veggie dogs and light potato chips, his commitment to tradition keeps him from doing so. And he has other struggles aside from money. New York City’s abrupt weather patterns make it difficult to sustain a full

day’s work, but Charlie usually sticks it out through rain or snow. He claims that his age is starting to get the better of him. “When you’re young, you don’t really think about the future, you know? This is the first year I’ve actually needed a chair to sit instead of stand.” Charlie’s dedication is often returned by the onset of “regulars” that visit him throughout the week. His quality customer service is a direct result of his generous and cheerful personality. Often, regulars get their hot dogs topped off with a free pretzel or drink, and are sometimes entrusted with an I.O.U. in lieu of immediate payment. Regular or not, all of his customers leave with a smile and a warm exchange.

“People come up to me and say ‘Hello Charlie,’ and that makes the day okay.”

One of his fondest memories is selling hot dogs during the FIT Block party. “The line was nearly the size of the entire Seventh Avenue. You couldn’t see the end of it. I didn’t even charge students the correct price, I just wanted to give them hot dogs,” he recalls. For reasons like this, students across campus have expressed gratitude to Charlie. In fact, during this interview, a student ran up and exclaimed, “I love Charlie! You’re the man!” While his job may seem small to some, he’s made a big impact here at FIT. “Hot dogs are not going to make me a millionaire, and I know that. Like I said before, it’s the people, it’s FIT, that makes it all worth it.” And Charlie, we’d just like to say, thank you for that.

Photo courtesy of Hermina Sobhraj

W27

OCTOBER 2013

Soapbox Culture by Dara Kenigsberg

Social media is an ever-evolving way of connecting with others through user-generated content. As technology advances, so do the various channels. It lets people create, share and communicate with other members of society, one-to-one, one-tomany, many-to-one, and many-to-many. Twitter, Facebook, Wordpress and other sites have made this a huge phenomenon. By now, there are a growing number of users worldwide and they’re increasing every day. As of May 2013, Facebook reported that 1.16 billion people use its services every month, up 23% from the last year. Social media allows people across the world to have a voice. Now those with a view or cause and a connection to the Internet, also have a platform for that cause. The outcomes can have both negative and positive consequences. On the positive end, social media has given a voice to the invisible. One example is OK2TALK. org. This site is aimed at teens that are depressed, angry, bullied, or simply feel estranged. According to the site, “The goal of OK2TALK is to create a community for teens and young adults struggling with mental health problems....Anyone can add their voice by sharing creative content…in a safe, moderated space.” OK2TALK.org is just one of many sites dedicated to helping people in need and bringing together those facing similar obstacles. These types of websites have helped many people feel connected- which is all a byproduct of social media.

Photo courtesy of telegraph.co.uk

asked Twitter to delay scheduled maintenance because it would have shut down the site in the middle of the day in Iran. According to an article on google.com during that time, Twitter founder Biz Stone said in a message to users, “Our network host had planned this upgrade for tonight…However, our network partners at NTT America recognize the role Twitter is currently playing as an important communication tool in Iran.” This was the first time that the U.S. government had ever accredited a social networking site with the potential ability to change the course of history.

“For the first time ever, we are able to come together for a common cause”

An obvious benefit of social media is its ability to connect people in real time. This aspect is being utilized in ways that were unimaginable just a decade ago. People are using sites such as Twitter and Facebook to organize protests and effect political change. For the first time ever, we are able to come together for a common cause without having a leader, and mobilize at an astonishing pace. Social media also helps to expand the sphere of participation. One example of this was what has been called the Twitter Revolution in Iran in 2009. Following the re-election of President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, Iranians began an online protest, believing the election was rigged. Though the actual use of Twitter to organize these protests has been exaggerated, it, along with YouTube, played a massive role by showing the western world what was going on inside of Iran. So massive in fact, that the State Department

Social media and networking, however, are not always used constructively and in a productive manner. Any consumer that isn’t happy with a certain product can take to any number of websites and post with abandon their discontent. Instead of complaining to a customer service representative, people can now complain to the world. This can have a devastating impact on businesses. So-called flamers have the potential to bring down a company merely because they didn’t like what that company was selling. There are no regulations barring people from sharing with the world their personal feelings and thus there is no way to know if that person has some sort of agenda, is over-reacting, or just unhappy. Though many businesses rely on the feedback of their customers to improve quality and advance ideas, it’s doubtful that any company would have imagined that the very thing they thought would help them could also destroy their brand image and reputation.

Unfortunately, it goes beyond customers griping about products. Social media is a powerful tool for individuals to be heard across the world. If that somebody is promoting violence for example, then social media essentially becomes an accomplice. Protests that may start out peacefully can often turn violent, even deadly. When using social media to effect change, is there a line that can’t be crossed? How do we know when we have crossed it? If someone who is experiencing injustice takes to the Internet to find other people in similar circumstances, and they get together and cause a revolution, what happens if that revolution ramps up into a war? This might sound a little far-fetched, but there are few established limitations that would stop such a thing from happening, especially given the great power that social media has accrued. The big question here is whether or not the use of social media to provide a space in which alternative perspectives may be aired is a good thing or a bad thing. Should social media be shut down in times of civil unrest, or does that infringe on free speech? You decide!

Photo courtesy of topnews.in

“Social media also helps to expand the sphere of participation”

MONTH IN REVIEW

FIT

Month in Review by Dara Kenigsberg

Islamic Extremists Terrorize Kenya and Nigeria Islamist terrorists attacked the Westgate Mall in Nairobi, Kenya on Sept. 21. There were at least 67 people killed of varied ages along with 200 wounded. The well-coordinated attack was carried out by Al-Shabaab militants in response to Kenya’s military deployment in Somalia. The assault lasted for 80 hours, turning into the worst terrorist attack in Kenya since the bombings of the U.S. Embassy in 1998. The mass shooting turned hostage situation, beginning at approximately noon that day, with a two-pronged attack. Al-Shabaab militants entered the mall at two different points, shooting assault rifles and throwing grenades. The shootings and bombings went on for almost four days until the Kenya Defense Forces finally gained control over the situation. Throughout the assault, the terrorists, innocent victims trapped inside the mall, as well as Kenyan officials, used Twitter to communicate and report on the carnage that took place. Following the release of video footage of the attack by CCTV, four of the terrorists have been named.

This was not the only shooting carried out in Africa this past month. On Sunday, Sept. 29, the Islamic extremist group Boko Haram stormed the Yobe State College of Agriculture in the middle of the night, killing nearly 50 students. Ibrahim Mohammed, one of the surviving students, told the Associated Press that, “The extremists rode into the college in two double-cabin pickup all-terrain vehicles and on motorcycles, some dressed in Nigerian military uniforms,” and that “They appeared to know the layout of the college, attacking the four male hostels but avoiding the one hostel reserved for women.” This attack is only one of a series of assaults carried out recently by the Boko Haram as an attempt to impose Islamist rule in northern Nigeria. According to the Huffington Post, Abubakar Shekau, the leader of the extremist group, has given “video addresses that his group wants to end democracy in Nigeria and allow education only in Islamic schools. Boko Haram translates to ‘Western education is forbidden.’”

Were the D.C. Navy Yard Shootings Preventable? Early on Monday, Sept. 16, 34-year-old Aaron Alexis, military veteran turned contractor, drove to the D.C. Navy Yard with a disassembled, sawed-off shotgun in his bag. He got through security with a valid pass and parked his car on the property. USA Today reported, “After leaving his car, it is believed that Alexis was involved in two altercations in which he opened fire, killing one or possibly two people.” Alexis proceeded to the Sea Systems Command Headquarters, where he went up to the fourth floor, overlooking an atrium. Law enforcement officials told the New York Times, “He was shooting down from above the people.” He then went down to the third floor where he continued shooting randomly.

He killed 12 people and injured 8 before being fatally shot in the head by law enforcement. Post-shooting, there has been much speculation whether or not this could have been prevented. Alexis, a Navy Officer until 2011, was honorably discharged for misconduct. The New York Times reported that Alexis was “investigated by police departments in Seattle and Fort Worth, for firing a gun in anger.” One month prior to the shooting, Alexis was in a motel in Rhode Island where he called the police three times, claiming someone with whom he had an argument at the airport had sent people there to kill him and they were harassing him through

“microwaves.” The police report, obtained by the New York Times said he heard “voices speaking to him through the wall, flooring and ceiling.” He had also been to Veterans Affairs hospitals twice that month for insomnia, although he had not being committed during either visit. Together, these events paint a picture of a man suffering from mental distress, but as one Pentagon official told the New York Times, “The system didn’t pick up the red flags because the red flags in this case had not been fed into the system… Perhaps we need to look at the ‘filters,’ and whether some sorts of behaviors and incidents, even if they do not rise to the level of punishment, should nonetheless be part of the files for review.”

W27

OCTOBER 2013

Government Shutdown Continues and Economic Default Looms Tuesday, Oct. 1 marked the first time the government had shut down in 17 years. The two houses of Congress, the House of Representatives and the Senate, could not come to an agreement over the spending bill, as each side wanted things that the other would not concede to. According to CNN, “The two sides bickered and blamed each other for more than a week over Obamacare, the president’s signature health care law. House Republicans insisted the spending bill include anti-Obamacare amendments. Senate Democrats were just as insistent that it didn’t.” The shutdown occurred because, even though the calendar year is not over, the fiscal year is, and without a proper spending plan in place, the government lacks the funds needed to remain fully operational. The events that led up to the shutdown play out much like a Congressional pingpong match. The Senate wanted a clean continuing resolution (C.R.). This means they would only sign a spending bill that did not have any anti-Obamacare resolutions attached. The House, on the other hand, proposed a variety of such resolutions, saying they would only agree to a spending bill if certain provisions pertaining to the Affordable Care Act (a bill previously passed by the 112th Congress and approved by a majority of the U.S. Supreme Court) were a part of it. On the Friday before the shutdown, the Senate passed a clean budget bill that restored funding for Obamacare. According to Fox News, when the House met later that day, they came up “with a proposed amendment to the spending bill that would delay the entire health care law for a year.” Speaker of the House and House Majority Leader John Boehner made it clear that he would not accept the bill as the Senate presented it. Following this, President Obama stated, “(Undoing ObamaCare is) not gonna

happen…House Republicans will have to decide whether to join the Senate and keep the government open, or shut it down because they can’t get their way... This grandstanding has real effects on real people,” according to FoxNews.com. He also cautioned the House Republicans not to attempt to “tie an increase in the debt ceiling to other demands, claiming a U.S. default would cause an ‘economic shutdown.” This is not how the government is supposed to work. According to the White House Press, Obama announced, “There will be no negotiations over this. The American people are not pawns in some political game. You don’t get to demand some ransom in exchange for keeping the government running. You don’t get to demand ransom in exchange for keeping the economy running. You don’t get to demand ransom for doing your most basic job.” The House of Representatives, or rather, one faction of the House, are adamant about repealing or delaying Obamacare, which is what this shutdown stems from. But when the shutdown began, the Affordable Health Care Act was still in place, so what is the point of the opposition? The President also said, “More than 6 million people visited the website HealthCare. gov the day it opened… And many Americans are finding out when they go on the website that they’ll save a lot of money or get health insurance for the first time…the Affordable Care Act has gone through every single democratic process, all three branches of government. It’s the law of the land. It’s here to stay.”

Republicans are also flirting with the idea of not raising the debt ceiling. This is something that has never been done before in the United States. They believe that if they do not agree to raise the debt ceiling, then the Senate will be forced to give in and agree to anti-Obamacare provisions, but in reality, not raising the debt ceiling and Obamacare are not related. If the government shutdown continues, there will be an economic default. This is the same as defaulting on a loan; it would hurt the entire country’s credit rating. President Obama explained it well, “The only thing that the debt ceiling does is to let the U.S. Treasury pay for what Congress has already bought…This time, they are threatening to actually force the United States to default on its obligations for the very first time in history… that their basic theory is, okay, if the shutdown doesn’t work, then we are going to try to get some extra concessions out of the President…And if we don’t get it, we’ll tell them we don’t – we won’t vote to pay the country’s bills. We’ll let the country default.”

HAUTE CULTURE Film Review:

We Are What We Are by Miriam Lustig

storytelling. Here, the story becomes cheapened by explicitness. And even then, its attempt at overt horror is tentative at best, and unconvincing. In a culture where the Saw series is up to seven and words such as “gorror” and “gorography” has been invented to describe a fascination with reprehensible subject matter, bloodshed for bloodshed’s sake is passé. We’ve seen it before. Whatever.

“It is with love that I do this, God’s will be done.” With these deceptively innocent words, a horrific story unfolds. Jim Mickle’s (identify Mickle right away–is he the film’s director?)narrative focuses on two young girls (Ambyr Childers and Julia Gardner) who are forced by a domineering and deeply religious father (Bill Sage) to assume the responsibility of overseeing a gruesome family tradition in the wake of their mother’s passing. Underneath the disquiet and, yes, the horror, We Are What We Are is an allegory of beliefs and traditions that are perverted to accommodate unspeakable evil. It’s a movie that skirts around the ideas that religions can be self-serving and that it is easier to kill for one’s beliefs than it is to die for them. If there is one strong criticism that can be made of this movie it is that its makers seem to have had trouble committing to a genre. The first half of the movie is all

photo courtesy of insidemovies.ew.com

the more frightening for its subtlety. The sparse and often terse dialogue of the protagonists is underscored by compelling visuals. The characters’ conflicted emotions are thrown into sharper relief

by the artistic way in which they are portrayed. Aesthetics drives the narrative until the last quarter of We Are, where this technique is unfortunately partially forsaken in favor of more direct (and clumsy)

Gore aside, We Are What We Are treats a stomach-turning subject with something almost approaching delicacy (spoiler alert, but no pun intended). It also explores more than a few compelling themes: the complexity and conflicts of mankind, how many are made to suffer for the convictions of a few and, perhaps most compellingly, how it’s possible for one to say “I love you,” and mean it wholeheartedly albeit ironically, even as they go for the recipient’s jugular.

Film Review:

Prisoners by Chloe Dewberry

Prisoners is a family crime drama about a vigilante father who challenges his moral limits in order to rescue his daughter. Directed by Denis Villeneuve, the film tells the grueling story of two families' personal grief and puts a dark spin on the Amber Alert movie genre. It begins as two young married couples, Keller and Grace Dover (played by Hugh Jackman and Maria Bello) and Franklin and Nancy Birch (Terrance Howard and Viola Davis), and their children gather together for a quiet Thanksgiving dinner. This brief vignette into their warm family life is the last chance viewers get to see the normalcy and innocence of both families' lives in a quiet Pennsylvania suburb. After dinner, the mothers and fathers soon realize that both of their daughters have gone missing and frantic suspicions arise. Was it the unfamiliar RV owned by suspicious neighbor Alex Jones (Paul Dano) parked down the block? No one knows for sure but Keller and a rugged Detective Loki (Jake Gyllenhaal) butt heads over how to best deal with the situation. With little concrete evidence, Alex is released from custody and must face the fatherly Photo courtesy of beyondhollywood.com

wrath of Keller when he is kidnapped and thrown into his own personal hell. Keller proceeds to beat and torture Alex to uncover his daughter's whereabouts and is willing to do it with or without the help of the timid Birch family. While the plot is nothing revolutionary and the cinematography is as bleak as the subject matter, a light shines in the allstar performances. It is as though every A-list actor was born to play these typecast roles at their finest: Hugh Jackman the aggressive growler, Jake Gyllenhaal the off-the-beaten-path hunky lead, Terrance Howard the quivering coward, and Paul Dano the cowering outcast. Each role is played with top-notch quality and the high emotions are scarily believable. The film is not so much a dark masterpiece as it is a two-and-a-half hour thinkpiece film about the lengths a father will go to protect his daughter, even at the expense of his morals. In the end, after all of the plot twists, it no longer matters who really kidnapped the girls. All that matters is how far a father will go to uncover the truth.

W27

OCTOBER 2013

Book Review:

“Refashioned: Cutting-Edge Clothing from Upcycled Materials” by Amanda Baldwin

When one thinks of the recycled clothing process, they think of individuals extracting useful materials from a product to make a different item. “Upcycling” is the concept of converting waste materials and old products into items that have more value than they had before. Fashion designers have recently pushed themselves, artistically and innovatively, to produce pieces that will transform society’s understanding of what upcycling clothing has to offer and ignite a resurgence of interest within the recycled clothing culture.

Sass Brown, a designer, fashion activist, FIT professor and new author of, Refashioned: Cutting-Edge Clothing from Upcycled Materials was able to showcase and discuss designers who only work with used materials in the most unique ways possible. Brown’s ability to discuss and exhibit the back-story, of both the designers and their pieces, allows the reader to engage with the upcycling culture as well. Throughout the 208-page book, Brown grabs the attention of the reader by describing a detailed account of all the elements needed to explain the story behind each unique item. Brown includes designer’s histories, the concept behind the items, the process it takes to make them, as well as the impact the product has on people and different organizations within the community. This book not only features designers that create from upcylced materials but those who craft their ideas using surplus or unused materials generated from traditional manufacturing methods.

materials and products. Kondakis, an environmentally and socially responsible fashion company based in Kenya, is showcased in the book for designing clothing made from decommissioned parachutes as well as making accessories from dead wood and found objects. But nothing can be more cutting-edge than a fine, filigreed collection of necklaces made from discarded human hair by Kerry Howley. All graphics of the pieces not only display the works, but reflect the ideal atmosphere surrounding the ideas behind the clothing. Brown’s idea to tell the stories behind the clothes is to, “help revive our material connection to our clothing.” This is important, she believes, because fashion, “has the power to change the world.” Refashioned, is an excellent, informative movement manuscript that can double as a resource for all those interested in both innovative fashion and recycling in general. Bonus: this book is made from recycled materials!

The range of designers featured is immense, both in number as well as their ability to innovate from different Photo courtesy of www.ceebee.it

Theatre Review:

Romeo & Juliet by Fernanda DeSouza

When you thought they couldn’t overdo Shakespeare’s tragedy of the star-crossed lovers anymore, Broadway went ahead and did it anyway. A much anticipated play, Romeo and Juliet is always, no matter the form in which it is presented (film or production), looked upon with a very critical eye by its audiences. How can they reproduce something that’s been overdone? Will it prove successful or will it be a total flop? The story unfolds inside the Richard Rodgers Theater in Times Square with the stage as the first giveaway to the modern mishap of an interpretation by director David Leveaux. A large wall, fragmented in three pieces, moves about with each changing scene (a metaphor maybe? I didn’t get it), a lonesome, never changing church bell that hangs from the ceiling, a plank of wood similar to that of a pirate’s plank (shout out to Orlando Bloom’s Pirate of the Caribbean days) as Juliet’s balcony and sand strewn about the corners. All these choices lead us to believe that Leveaux was, simply put, confused. Attempting to grab elements from the classic 1968 Franco Zeffirelli (the bell) and then Baz Luhrmann’s 1996 cult deconstructive hit, Romeo + Juliet by placing the sand on stage

to mock Luhrmann’s “Verona Beach” interpretation. With the unfortunate stage presentation, there is no sense of direction, whatsoever, in the rest of the play. Leveaux’s choice to plant Bloom atop a motorcycle, channeling his inner James Dean bad-boy persona (leather jacket and grease-slicked hair) in his entrance scene is beyond me. An unnecessary over amplification of Romeo’s inner sexy? Perhaps. But he’s Orlando Bloom, everyone knows he’s a pretty face. Why overdo it? Leveaux then chooses to contrast this rebel without (or in this case, with) a cause, with an innocent, vibrant, white-clad Condola Rashad, who brings life to the stage against Bloom’s solemn delivery. Leveaux also cast the Montagues, Bloom’s kin, as white and the Capulets as African-Americans, his interpretation of the family feud, blaming it on interracial love—what an easy way out, fair sir. The setting and time period was also very misleading. In fair Verona…with an influx of immigrants from Africa (all wearing traditional attire) and members of the Bloods gang (in leather, denim and muscle shirts). And an American Idol veteran, Justin Guarini (Paris), in a black suit. I left the theater wondering what time period the story was set in because

of the failure in the costume department. The lack of chemistry between Bloom and Rashad left me wondering: when will the passion come in? The chemistry between both actors felt forced, with the rest of the plot, strewn about chaotically and ripping at the seams. And here I thought I was watching a romantic tragedy. Tragedy indeed. I was more interested in the fire effects of these magnificent pyrotechnic metal poles than the swiveled onto the stage at peak moments like the party scene. You have to fix this so it makes sense to those of us who didn’t see the play. So what if two teenagers were about to kill themselves over silly misunderstandings? I wanted to see shit burn! It took two hours and fifteen minutes for the passion to shine through, during the death scene in which Bloom and Rashad finally deliver beautiful performances, taking time to proclaim their love through speech and facial expression as they lay dying. What brings us time and time again to Shakespeare is the beauteous result that is his uncanny manipulation of prose. You can’t assume the whimsical Legolas is going to produce the same affect on stage as he does on screen just because he is dreamy looking. Despite her striking beauty, Rashad rushed her lines as if to

mimic the naivety of the 13-year-old she portrays. Bloom projected his voice at all the wrong times and paused awkwardly at moments as if to make up for hurried recitations minutes before. The audience even burst out laughing at Mercutio’s death scene (played by the captivating and sly Christian Carmago, apparently the only actor cast correctly in this production) because they were perplexed by how to react to the poor recitations of the lines throughout the play. It was uncomfortable to sit through—did audience members pay just to see Bloom’s gorgeous face (and body, if I might add)? Most, if not all of the actors, shared a complete ignorance and disrespect for the Bard’s poetic language. The performance left me with a bitter aftertaste and a stern conviction: Shakespeare should only be done by professional, British stage actors trained to do Shakespeare plays. Because this did not fulfill the above requirements, the result was a production that was cheap and disappointing. Leveaux, do you hear that? It’s Baz Luhrmann calling. He wants to collaborate on butchering another classic.

HAUTE CULTURE

FIT

Concert Review:

Global Citizen Festival by Hermina Sobhraj

The Global Citizen Festival brought together over 60,000 people in Central Park this past September, making it one of the largest free concerts in New York City. Stevie Wonder, Alicia Keys, John Mayer and Kings of Leon headlined the event, accompanied by surprise guest stars such as Bono and Will.I.Am. What had the ability to really bring such a vast audience and iconic star power together? An even greater purpose: ending extreme global poverty for good. Arguably, hearing Stevie Wonder sing his soul-striking tune Smile live was a gift in

itself. Alongside the singers, the festival also had other celebrities and influential political figures from around the world, from Karolina Korkova to the Crown Princess of Denmark, to address the audience. However, the true beauty of the concert resided in its mission dedicated to the impoverished, the less fortunate and mainly to “a vision of a world without poverty.” While this particular event was hosted by the foundation itself, Global Citizen offers tickets to a variety of concerts across the country. In order to consistently reinforce

its vision, the foundation offers these tickets via a lottery system. The only way a user can enter themselves in the lottery is by participating in different activities on the Global Citizen website, like signing petitions and watching videos on prominent global issues. I highly recommend attending this concert at least once in the future. The Festival’s influential guests and overall production not only makes you feel like part of a greater goal but also encourages you to do better and be better, for those across the globe who deserve better.

Concert Review:

Atlas Genius by Daniela Rios

Atlas Genius rocked the house at Irving Plaza for the second time in a week on Friday, Oct. 11. I made sure to get in line 30 minutes early in order to get a good spot without having to elbow anyone (hey, all’s fair in love and music). The girl in front of me sported a signed Atlas Genius band tee with their signatures on the back – I was admittedly jealous. The doors opened allowing the thrilled fans to scurry in. Minutes after, the opening bands, Dale Earnhardt Jr Jr and Family of the Year, expertly pre-heated the musical oven with their groovy and trippy performances for Atlas Genius. The Australian duo began to storm the venue the minute they stepped on stage. The boys knew how to keep the energy levels up! Either they had an unlimited supply of Red Bull or the vivacious audience secretly sent them some sort of stimulating radiation. Either/or aside, I was thoroughly impressed with the band’s intimacy with the crowd. Keith, lead vocalist and guitarist, got up close and personal with the crowd while singing and strumming along to crowd favorites, including “On a Day.”

Photo courtesy of Frank Maddocks

Everyone made sure to empty their hands so they could clap along to the rhythm. It was impossible not to with a band who produces such glorious harmonies. The duo played most songs off their newest album When It Was Now, including personal favorites “Trojans,” “All These Girls” and “When It Was Now.” Even the most reserved members of the audience were swirling and dancing.

Keith sent shivers up my spine with his angelic voice. The songs’ tender vocals sounded even more incredible in person. Let’s not forget about the other Aussie brother, Michael, who was skillfully banging the drums in the background all while maintaining a charming smile on his face.

W27

OCTOBER 2013

DUMBO Art Festival by Christina Macaluso

The DUMBO Arts Festival was held from Sept. 27 through Sept. 29 in DUMBO, Brooklyn, a tiny neighborhood nestled along the East River under the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges. A three-daylong festival consisting of both indoor and outdoor exhibits, more than 400 local, national and international artists displayed their talents free to the public. Exhibits could be found in the many warehouse-type buildings that make up DUMBO that consisted of galleries, studios, stages, live performances and much more.

entertainment and DJ mixes echoed through the streets of DUMBO, adding to the atmosphere. The DUMBO Arts Festival catered to the food enthusiast as well, with several local food vendors and trucks set up around the area. In the Brooklyn Bridge Park Tobacco Warehouse, just steps from the main entrance to the Arts Festival was Smorgasburg, a local food vendor and truck showcase that is a popular destination every Sunday for locals. Well-known favorites were also present at the festival such as Progressive Soups, offering samples of many of their

Each artist and performer seemed to have a specific story to tell using their

Photography by Kathlin Argiro

relationship between the brothers and the challenges they face with their differences. The art was displayed as a representation of a map leading nowhere, a metaphor for their inability to see eye-to-eye.

art. One of the popular studio exhibits was “Sucks Either Way” by Ad Deville of the Skewville duo. The Skewville duo are twin brothers who do not get along. This particular exhibit showcased the

A member of the FIT community, Fashion Design Professor Kathlin Argiro, produced another popular exhibit. Professor Argiro showcased a pop-up shop of her sketches and designs available for purchase. She explained that some of her original sketches from her college days at Parsons inspired actual garment pieces she was selling that day. Asked about her experience with the DUMBO Arts Festival, Professor Argiro said, “As

a fashion designer living and working in DUMBO, participating in the DUMBO Arts Festival is a MUST! Over 200,000 people come to the festival so the exposure is unparalleled. I had an incredible weekend and connected with lots of new clients.” Many of the exhibits and booths at the festival were also interactive for guests. A popular booth consisted of artists who custom designed festival tote bags. Festival attendees enjoyed poetry readings, dance performances, comedy skits and visits to the children’s alley with numerous arts and crafts activities for children and their families. Live

fall favorites. There’s no doubt that the 2013 DUMBO Arts Festival was a huge success, bringing together locals and tourists along the Manhattan Skyline to showcase what New York is all about: the arts, food and fun.

Photoville by Daniela Rios

The folks over at Photoville give us a friendly reminder that art doesn’t always have to be exhibited in a conventional white, four-walled room with high ceilings and security guards eyeing you at every turn. Displaying in a grittier environment does not diminish the quality of the artwork, but rather makes us feel more in tune with the art and less like outsiders. Photoville is the kind of village every art lover wishes to settle in, especially if the rent is more affordable than places such as Chelsea and Williamsburg. I’d nest myself in one of those freight cars any day if it meant getting to admire art every morning after devouring a dulce de leche crepe (with gelato!) while soaking in the breathtaking view of the city that Brooklyn Bridge Park offers. This was my first year attending Photoville, a collection of quirky Brooklynbased photography pop-up village exhibitions lit with delicate strings of Christmas-like lights that began in 2012. An experience so wonderful I went two

times out of the week-long event that kicked off the festivities with a launch party on Sept. 19 and wrapped up the goodies on the 29. The freight car turned exhibitions were spread out on the spacious uplands of Pier 5. Free copies of The Photoville Chronicle were available with short summaries of the 35+ photography exhibitions and details regarding the free lectures, hands-on workshops for kids and adults, night-time projections, food trucks, the summer beer-garden and a handy map of the pop-up village on the last page. I snapped my stylish pirate patch in place (a girl can dream), marked the journey’s end with an “X” and set out to find my artsy pirate booty, which in this case came in the form of a journey that would fill my head with knowledge and inspiration and leave me with days of reflection ahead.

beautifully captured his selfless lament of seeing his twin brother, Nick, live with cerebral palsy. The artist answers some of his most heartrending questions such as, “Why did this happen to Nick and not me?” while simultaneously strengthening their relationship. In container #24, I had the honor of chatting with the artist Douglas Ljungkvist who was modestly standing at the entrance as people brushed past him to admire the artwork, not realizing the artist was present. Mr. Ljungkvist situated startling imagery into an aesthetic context using isolated architecture and living spaces as his principal subjects. He explained to us the process of documenting Ocean Beach, NJ for four years and using the unexpected change of course when Hurricane Sandy struck to adopt a fresh perspective in his photographs.

While flipping through the pages of “The Distance Between Us” in the traveling Indie Photobook Library (container #27), I was touched by the artist Christopher Capozziello’s photos and text that

This was just my cup of tea and I’m eager to see what next year’s Photoville will present inside those magical tin cargo containers.

FIT

photo courtesy of huffingtonpost.com

HAUTE CULTURE

Museum Review:

Robert Pruitt at The Studio Museum in Harlem

photo courtesy of studiomuseum.org

by Dana Heyward

The Studio Museum in Harlem holds a special place in my heart as one of those rare gems in Harlem. The small but intimate space has been known to proudly carry and curate the work of African American artists such as Kehinde Wiley and Jacob Lawrence since the 1960s. It is seen as a “safe haven” of sorts where black art is curated and made available to the masses. Robert Pruitt’s solo show at the museum, entitled Women brings together the artist’s hand-drawn portraits of black women in “contemporary experiences.” Pruitt has been known for his tonguein-cheek style before and often leaves his works open to interpretation. In this

exhibition his large scale drawings (created with conte crayon) combine these somewhat simple portraits with elements of science fiction and pop culture. In a several of the drawings Pruitt makes clever references to Nina Simone, OutKast and even the superhero the Hulk. In one picture, a slumped model’s braided hair is duplicated based on Vladimir Tatlin’s “Monument to the Third International.” Pruitt was careful in the selection of his models as they are all friends or family members of his. But viewers may feel some connection to the models as they all look like the everyday woman, but with more strength. Each drawing is a

testament of empowerment and confidence, but there is still variety between the works. While some women have a futuristic, “cosmic cool” look to them, others are adorned in items that make nods at black culture (i.e. a high-top fad, an Adidas tracksuit and a African totem). Pruitt’s satirical yet simple execution makes his work all the more captivating. Plus his genuine exploration of black women and identity carefully challenge the idea of femininity and the general depiction of the modern black woman. Robert Pruitt’s: Women runs through Oct. 27 at the Studio Museum in Harlem.

America’s Love Photo courtesy of madmen.wikia.com

Affair with Television Anti-Heroes by Chloe Dewberry

You can’t choose who you fall in love with. It’s fate, it’s chemistry, it’s…television? Love hurts, and slowly realizing your significant other’s flaws and inner demons can sometimes lead to Shakespearean tragedy…especially if your “significant other” is a flawed lead television character. January 10, 1999, is a date that will go down in history as the day American viewers tuned in to HBO to watch the crimemob drama “The Sopranos.” This was the night that viewers across the nation decided to let mobster anti-hero Tony Soprano into their living rooms and dinner conversations. That evening, HBO helped usher television into its “second golden age.” The

Photo courtesy of schmoesknow.com/

first golden age consumed the ‘50s and ‘60s with shows such as “The Twilight Zone.” But this, the second golden age, has been hailed by many critics as the “Era of the Anti-Hero.” Television has found a main focus and profitable enterprise in shows with morally conflicted protagonists that are easily relatable to viewers at home. And likewise, for the past decade, television creators and viewers have decided to go against the grain and sympathize with corrupted protagonists.

to play with his baby daughter and simply cooked meth in his underwear out of an old RV became the meth kingpin of the Southwest. Like any abusive relationship, there were warning signs. Yet, like a lovelorn fool I went right back to Walter and tuned into “Breaking Bad” every week– but I wasn’t the only one. Each season, American viewers came back in growing numbers to get their Walter White anti-hero fix. Like the blue meth Walter cooked, viewers were hooked.

I remember the first moment that I fell in love with the ultimate modern day anti-hero Walter White and the entire “Breaking Bad” series. From the moment that Walter stood up to his son’s bully at a local clothing store by stomping the culprit’s legs in the pilot episode, I was enamored. Like many viewers, I was blinded by a confusing fascination with this man. Who could have known that this “family man” would turn out to be an absolute monster in later seasons? The high-school chemistry teacher who used

As humans, we have always been drawn to and intrigued by violence and chaos and television production companies have always caught on. Modern day cable networks have introduced us viewers to relatable characters with “justifiable” deplorable actions that can give us our violent fix every week without feeling guilty. Why watch an episode of “Law & Order: SVU” about an unrelatable sexual predator when we can watch a likeable police analyst live a secret vigilante serial killer life in the Showtime series “Dexter?”

I don’t blame viewers. I too would much rather watch conflicted CIA agent Carrie Mathison carry on her romantic affair with an alleged terrorist on “Homeland” than sit through an episode of “The Big Bang Theory.” Escapist television shows are no longer cool; we as viewers don’t want innocence. So television writers and producers, if you’re listening: more shows about fathers becoming drug-lords, please.

Photo courtesy of www.vebidoo.de

W27

OCTOBER 2013

French Senate Passes Ban on Beauty Pageants, Should We? by Dara Kenigsberg

In mid-September, the French senate approved a bill to end beauty pageants for girls under the age of 16. According to the New York Times, the ban was passed “as an amendment to a larger bill aimed at increasing gender equality. The measure now goes to the lower house, the National Assembly, for discussion and a vote.” Though pageants are not as popular in France as they are in America, there is a fear that if pageants were to continue, they would eventually become the spectacle that they are in the United States–very competitive and overly sexual. Chantal Juono, the ban’s main proponent, is a Senator from France’s center-right party and was formerly a junior minister for environment. Ms. Juono was quoted in the New York Times saying, “It is extremely destructive for a girl between the age of 6 and 12 to hear her mother say that what’s important for her is to be beautiful… We are fighting to say: What counts is what they have in their brains.”

The penalties for not adhering to the ban include a $40,000 fine and up to two years in prison. Many of the beauty pageants for young girls in France have been quite different than those in the U.S. Graines De Miss (Miss in the Making), which began in 2001, prohibited its contestants from wearing heels above 1.4 inches, wigs, dresses deemed too short, makeup and bathing suits. In an interview, the pageant’s organizer, Maud Chevalier, said, “I wanted to organize a contest which respected the child…In our contests, girls are princesses for a day, they make friends with others.” She also pointed out that in America, “contests aren’t adapted to children” and that they “parade on a stage to look like a Barbie.”

This is an unfortunate truth, as is so prominently showcased by TLC’s “Toddlers and Tiaras” and its spinoff, “Here Comes Honey Boo Boo.” Beauty pageants in America today are part of our country’s growing culture of the hypersexualization of young girls. The fact that both of these shows have fared so well in the ratings points to our fascination with sex and beauty, and the increasingly young age that it begins at. Whether or not watching is just a guilty pleasure, we are still guilty. At some point in most girl’s life, they have wanted to be a princess–this innocent fantasy is what these pageants should be about: making this dream a reality. Instead, however, one glimpse of these shows and the viewer is inundated with images of prepubescent girls showing off their underdeveloped physiques while being yelled at by their mothers for not sitting still while the makeup artist applies false eyelashes or tweezes their eyebrows. Is this really the environment that we want our future generation of women to grow up in, one that emphasizes looking like a Barbie rather than staying in school and carving out the opportunity for a better life? According to USA Today, the season finale of “Here Comes Honey Boo Boo” brought in over 3.2 million viewers. Isabella

Barrett, a former fixture on “Toddlers and Tiaras” is “a reported millionaire with her own fashion line and TV show in Germany.” Even though both of these girls are under the age of 10, their success has come from outrageous antics, temper tantrums and their ability (or inability in the case of Honey Boo Boo) to compete in beauty pageants. These are not the markers of a successful woman, or at least they shouldn’t be. This country is in the habit of rewarding people based on how they look, and beauty pageants simply perpetuate this behavior. Although it is doubtful that the United States would ever pass a bill that interferes with a parents’ rights to raise their children how they want, there should at least be some regulation put in place. Instead of focusing solely on the looks of the contestants, there should be some aspect of these pageants that emphasizes what these girls are learning in schools. Money shouldn’t simply be awarded to the winner, instead it could go towards some form of scholarship or into an educational trust fund that can’t be touched by the parents. In a time where girls are growing up faster and learning that being sexy will get you ahead, we need to start placing a premium on education and learning, and stop promoting such harmful ideals.

FIT SPEAKS The Agony and Ecstasy of Pop Culture for Today’s Youth by Rich Gilmartin

Pop culture is a funny thing. Day after day we are given tabloid headline after tabloid headline about scandals so “shocking” that it keeps celebrities such as Miley Cyrus and Justin Bieber always on the tip of our tongue, even though we absolutely despise everything that they stand for– or do we? Lately it seems as if these young celebrities have become the embodiment of the dark desires that are only natural for one to have; after all, we are only human. What we want to get away with, these kids are getting away with…and turning it into a career for themselves. In today’s tabloids it seems that more and more young celebrities are stepping into the spotlight to talk about their illicit drug use. Just this month, Miley came on record saying that she “loves weed and molly, but hates coke,” during an interview with Rolling Stone magazine. In the

last six months, Bieber himself has also made headlines for possessing marijuana on his tour bus. What was once seen as something so negative has now become something that these “artists” are using to leverage clout with their target audiences: youth. We have become a society that has gone from slamming the book on Lindsay Lohan for only trying cocaine “10 or 15 times” to praising even younger celebrities for also dabbling in the world of drugs. While these kids may claim that they are not role models, shedding light on such topics and making them seem acceptable is something that is totally within their power. Just this year, the club drug MDMA has been the target of several news headlines as two participants at this year’s E-ZOO Festival died after what was an apparent overdose. On top of that, Ocean Club, a club in the Boston area known for

hosting EDM DJ’s, was shut down over the summer after experiencing a total of 12 drug overdoses. The message that “it’s ok to experiment with drugs” has become so powerful that it has reached not only the youth but also adults responsible for hosting these events, causing them to turn a blind eye to the activity. So, can the media ultimately be blamed these recent events? It’s hard to say. One could argue that every generation has a different drug that they experiment with. In the ‘60s it was acid and in the ‘70s and ‘80s it was coke. Does it make it right? No. What can be said is that shedding such a positive light on drug experimentation has not in the least bit helped fight the war on drugs– although that’s already been said to be lost with the legalization of marijuana in Colorado and Washington.

FIT SPEAKS

FIT

The Culture of Culture by Britt Bivens

A Google search of the word “culture” brings up 895 million results and the Merriam-Webster dictionary lists six definitions of the word. Yet, even with the various interpretations and ways we can talk about it, we consistently use culture as a reference that defers to race or ethnicity. Why? It wasn’t always like this, was it?

the English Romantics in the late 19th century that identified socio-cultural groups based on exposure to the high arts and the differentiation of high culture and low culture–a predecessor to pop culture.

This is, of course the super Cliff Notes version, but the point is that it was this identification of collective thinking and Historically, in Classical Antiquity times, the concept of culture was centered on the behavior, or, according to the dictionary, “the customary beliefs, social forms, cultivation of the soul. Later, in the 17th and material traits of a racial, religious, century, this cultivation was something or social group” that is the basis of our that those abundant with money and not so abundant with work did to pass the time perspective of the term today. It’s an all-encompassing word, culture. What and impress others (see: Downton Abbey does it mean to say something belongs to and other classist shows and films). By ‘Eastern’ or ‘Western’ culture? Or black this point it had evolved into opera, ballet culture, Latin culture, or even gang culand paintings that currently cost millions ture? How wide are the parameters even of dollars. It was appreciated and much within those cultures? What about subculdesired to be in possession of some. tures? Are you part of Middle Eastern culture if you are not a Muslim, even though Culture as we know it took shape in the 18th and 19th centuries as the German and the region is home to other faiths? What are the ties between culture and religion? English Romantics explored the philosophies of people in society expressing them- There are many questions and plenty to ponder. It has been the cause of conflict selves, either individually or collectively and also of coming together. Festivals and with shared interests (see: Art History, ceremonies are based on cultural beliefs Philosophy and English Literature). It was

and participating strengthens ties. How do we come to know the culture to which we belong? Do we know cultures through our individual filters or through labels that are put on us based on our looks or place of origin? Can we be part of more than one culture or is that confusing to others? Maybe we can just have tags, like on the Internet, for easy labeling and reference. As we grow and change as people, do we adopt new cultures, leaving old ones behind? From its beginnings, the focus of culture was on an improvement of one’s self, of increased knowledge. It involved learning of other countries and their people and customs. As we move into increasing globalization and diversity within our cities, will we feel inclined to let go of or cling tighter to the cultures with which we identify? Can we as a people change the perception of our culture to outsiders and, for example, stop Europeans wincing when they hear the words ‘American Culture’– which makes them think of mass-market fashion, terrible food and the Kardashians.

Although we can presume that the word will always have a connotation of a collective group to it, it’s important that we understand that the word is bigger than only that. We ask about it when interviewing for a job with questions like, “what kind of corporate culture do you have?” when we want to know about the tone of the workplace. Most importantly perhaps, we shouldn’t forget that it stems from a desire of higher education of the arts, the appreciation of which is lost on many of our modern society. The recent closure of the New York City Opera, after its appeal to a younger audience with a production about pop culture icon (or joke, depending on how you saw it) Anna Nicole Smith and subsequent unsuccessful Kickstarter campaign is a sad reminder of the possible future. Especially so because the Opera was founded by Mayor Fiorello in 1943 with the mission of bringing high culture at lower prices to a broader audience of New Yorkers, regardless of class.

“we can’t stop”

Miley by Kris Ocra

Sticking her tongue out like a demented snake while grinding her nude leotard-covered bottom against Robin Thicke on national television and humorously denying the rumors that she’s pregnant with Juicy J’s child are just a few of Miley’s recent antics. We can tell she’s changed a lot from being the “Smiley Miley” we watched on our television screens as Hannah Montana played. But, what do her actions tell us about our world today, and more importantly, what do our reactions to her behavior say about our present society and culture? In her music videos “We Can’t Stop” and “Wrecking Ball,” she’s considered as overlysexualized with her revealing clothing (or lack of clothing in general) and provocative attitude. On websites that report about her life with users giving their input, more often than not, they use the term slut or slutty. I am about 99.99% sure that none of those people sharing their opinions know Miley personally. So why do they use the word so casually, degradingly, and most importantly, incorrectly? Most people call her out for her stirring performance on the 2013 MTV Music Awards with Robin Thicke and how she’s a negative influence on the children of today, but they say nothing about her suggestive lyrics in

“Blurred Lines,” which is played on radio stations everywhere. Most people also think she’s trying too hard to fit into the urban (a euphemism to describe contemporary African American culture) lifestyle- with her “grillz” in “We Can’t Stop” and her attempt at twerking. None of these characteristics can be attributed to being a person of color. They were made popular by influential musical artists in the hip-hop community. So who’s to say she can’t wear removable gold plates on her teeth or (attempt to) shake her butt? Are you only allowed to do either if your skin is dark? That’s like saying only Caucasians can sing with a Southern accent and wear cowboy hats (oh, the irony of stereotypes). I believe that the only problem with any of this would be if she used being a person of color as some sort of prop or accessory. Evidence of that would be her using black females to twerk around her in “We Can’t Stop.” Gwen Stefani may have done just that, a gimmick when she hired an all Asian group as her “posse” and adapted an over the top Harajuku style. I’m not Miley or Gwen, so I don’t know either’s purposes behind exposing their inclination towards the exotic, but I hope they know the difference between liking and respecting another culture as compared to

fetishizing it. She’s not the only former teen sensation that is thought to be having a “meltdown.” Even Justin Bieber is in the spotlight for his recent bizarre actions– referencing Anne Frank and claiming she would’ve been a ‘Belieber’ and getting into a fight with the paparazzi. Almost every celebrity known has acted out, or made mistakes as we everyday people exclusively call it. And Amanda Bynes? That’s another story. Miley Cyrus is just being herself. She may be acting out, but only she can admit to that. We as a media-invested society end up making her a scapegoat for all our opinions and double-standards. We find ourselves clicking our tongue at her skimpy clothing but end up wearing similar crops tops or sagging jeans the next day. So, what does this say about our culture today? Does the problem lie with our society or the people that we place on pedestals and decide to idolize? Or maybe, there’s no problem at all? Well, whatever you think, one thing is true: Miley (according to her own song) is “just being Miley.”

W27

OCTOBER 2013

Outside your borough:

Arthur Avenue,

bronx by Dana Heyward

If you love cannolis by the pound, raw oyster bars and the Robert De Niro film A Bronx Tale, you probably should consider taking the D train down to Arthur Avenue for a day trip. Residents of the area proudly refer to Arthur Ave. as “The Real Little Italy” of the Bronx, being one the oldest, predominantly Italian neighborhoods in the borough. Despite being between the busyness of Fordham Road, this historical avenue has managed to keep its classic Italian charm with a plethora of Italian restaurants, butcher shops, bakeries and fish markets. As typical as it may sound, my mind was set on pizza from the moment I got off the train. Not oysters, or lasagna, or pasta, but pizza. Pizza is my favorite dish and having the best in an authentic Italian neighborhood only seemed appropriate. However, in a neighborhood chock-full of pizza spots all proudly claiming to be the best, it can be hard for explorers to really settle on one place. But after some debating I settled on Giovanni’s Brick Oven Restaurant. The entrance was almost identical to Sal’s Pizzeria from Spike Lee’s 1989 film, Do The Right Thing, even complete with signed photos on the wall of figures including Hillary Clinton and Mother Theresa. I opted for a Sicilian slice with pepperoni and peppers. While I can’t say the pizza was the best I ever had, it was nevertheless satisfying. I next turned my attention to the important task of hunting down dessert. Similar to the number of pizza spots, there are numerous places you can try and expect nothing less but delicious treats. Right up the street from Giovanni’s is Morrone’s

Pastry Shop. The shop had almost every dessert I could think of laid out in a beautiful display. Rainbow cookies, tarts, napoleons, cheesecake, and of course cannolis, are just some of the desserts offered that are all for the taking. Once you’re done stuffing your face with Italian treats you’ll need to walk it off. Take this time to venture down the rest of Arthur Ave. Even if you don’t plan on buying anything, you should stop into the semi-indoor retail market (Arthur Ave. Retail Market) located on Arthur Avenue, which to me is the legitimate and cheap Eataly. When you first walk in you’ll find old Italian men intricately rolling fresh cigars (take a moment to gaze at this strange art). Past them you have an authentic butcher shop, pastry shop and pizza spot. Visitors can also find fresh produce and pasta all for sale in the grocery section of the market. On your walk you’ll find a variety of other specialty markets. There are meat markets like Biancardi’s and Vincent’s where you’ll find an interesting assortment of meats. Whether you want dried sausage or pig feet, they’ll have the most select cuts at these places. If you want to indulge in the smell of fresh breads, take a stroll into Addeo Gennaro & Sons and get a whiff of their hard-crust bread. While Arthur Ave. is definitely an ideal spot for the foodies of the world, the rich and genuine Italian culture it maintains throughout is what really drives life into the neighborhood.

Photos courtesy of Dana Heyward

Brandi-Lynn Smigiel | Photography | Culture means everything to me. If you don’t wake up in the morning and feel like you’re expressing your culture to its full extent, you’re doing it wrong

Armando Grano | FMM | Culture means lifestyle

style on 27

Mariana Jordao Guterman | Textile Development and Marketing | Culture means awareness of people’s differences and appreciation of people’s diversity

Photography by Jessica Farkas

Ilyssa Moskowitz | FMM | I Culture is the basis of who I am as a person

Bea Bueno | Advertising Design | Culture is who we are, what we do and what unites our world altogether

There’s no denying that FIT has a culture all its own– a brief jaunt down 27th Street can confirm that almost instantly. Normally we’d say our campus culture extends far beyond the clothes we wear (and it certainly does!), but there’s no denying that a large part of what makes FIT so unique is the unabashedly creative choices made by our students when it comes to getting dressed. If our culture is what makes us who we are, then we wouldn’t change a thing about FIT.

Kara Higgins | Illustration | Culture to me is what celebrates what we are

Zoe Whalen | Fashion Design | Culture means embracing the way people of a certain town, country, or even continent live

Lauren Park | Illustration | Culture is what makes us cool