VOLUME 45 | ISSUE 1 | SEPTEMBER 2012
the
back-to-school issue
CFDA Fashion incubator
ivy style
#NYFW
Jenn rogien: costume designer of hbo’s girls
MASTHEAD
FIT
2
Letter from the Editor
Caroline Nelson Editor-in-Chief Fernanda DeSouza Sarah Dill Deputy Editors Samantha Vance Executive Editor Rich Gilmartin Dianna Mazzone Nicole Tan Senior Editors
Photography by Carina Hsieh
Keely-Shea Smith Managing Editor
For those of you who have seen me in the halls of FIT, it probably comes as a shock that I am writing this letter as the Editorin-Chief of W27. Though I may come off as shy and quiet, I have a great deal to say, and so do the many students, faculty members and organizations of FIT.
Alyssa Kyle Copy Editor Hermina Sobhraj Treasurer W27newspaper.com Mollie Yarsike Community Manager
Advertising Jessica McClintock Advertising Promotions Manager
Art
At W27, we’re kicking off the year with the voices of your favorite columnists, Rich Gilmartin and Fernanda DeSouza, and introducing a new one, Arushi Khosla. Check out FIT Speaks on page 25. This year, FIT debuted its new signage, better recognizing the donors whose contributions have made the college what it is today, and the new athletics logo, promoting school unity and spirit. Turn to On the Block, beginning on page 4, for all the details. Along with the changes of the new academic year come the new trends in fashion and accessories. Our writers scoured the shows to give you an inside look at Spring/Summer 2013, including a piece on FIT alums Sachin + Babi. Take a look at the styles of the season on pages 16 and 17.
Christina Garcia Art Director Allison Costagliola Christina Hogan Contributing Designers Freddy Rodriguez Fashion Editor
As we begin the new school year, I’ll leave you with this thought from Thomas Edison, “If we did all the things we are capable of, we would literally astound ourselves.”
Kevin Buitrago Jessica Farkas Daniel Graindorge Carina Hsieh Photographers Siva-Jack Sernvongsat Illustrator
Contributors Francesca Beltran Colleen Dengel Suzanne Dengel Chloe Dewberry Georgi Dwiggins Jaiah Joielle Arushi Kholsa Camilla Mayer Marissa Mule Daysha Rodriguez Madeline Thompson Venus Wong John Simone Editorial Faculty Advisor Albert Romano Advertising Faculty Advisor
ON THE COVER:
W27 IS PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PLEASE RECYCLE YOUR COPY AFTER READING.
On a chilly Labor Day, W27 Deputy Editor, Fernanda DeSouza met Fashion Editor, Freddy Rodriguez in the Lower East Side to shoot fellow FIT student Caitlin Corcoran in fall’s hottest looks.
3
W27
SEPTEMBER 2012
TABLE OF CONTENTS On the Block
Haute Culture
4 5 6 6 6 7 8 8 8 9
20 21 21 21 22 22 22 23 24
Faculty Spotlight: Melissa Tombro What the Health? Bon Appetit! There’s A New Tiger in Town FIT takes on Ivy Style Carolee Announces Competition Winners Future Mode ICON: FIT Magazine Gets Makeover AMC Launches Shanghai Internship Program For 2013 FIT Campus’ New High Profile Signage Best Things To Do Around The Fashion Institute of Technology
Dear Industry 11 12 13
CFDA Incubator FNO Hoopla Saving Face: Autumn SPF
Feature 14 16
A Secondhand Look Movie Review: The Oranges Philanthropy: Start Getting Involved Concert Review: MoMA PS1 Warm Up Series Band Profile: Rovnic TUNING IN: Funky All Around Artist: TALWST Must See TV Outside Your Borough: Coney Island Month in Review
FIT Speaks 25 25 25
Why I Hate People Who Ostracize Fashion Olympics, Doritos, and Self-Realization An Inevitable Break Up Letter
26
Moop and Mary
27
Style on 27
Fashion Editorial: Dynamic Instinct NYFW Reviews
Dear Industry Continued 18 19
The Style Maven Behind HBO’s GIRLS Creating a Material Wrld
Letter from the Art Director Two years ago when I was just a first semester Communication Design student, I would have never guessed that I would end up behind the Art Director’s desk of W27, struggling to design an entire newspaper because of an intense time crunch. I began as a Junior Designer last semester thanks to Kari Emil Helgason and was immediately impressed by how such a notable publication could be put together in one weekend by one amazing team. I’m so excited and honored that I have the opportunity to design the paper and manage its art direction. Being a Graphic Design major has given me the preparation and enthusiasm for creating something that is engaging for FIT students. Although our Edit Weekends have been and will be strenuous every time, the reward I receive when seeing W27 on stands can’t be matched. With the September issue, my aim is to revamp the look while still maintaining W27’s signature simplicity and crisp style. I hope to enhance the design with each issue to give our readers the best visual experience possible. If anyone is interested in joining our design team, contact me at w27art@ gmail.com.
ON THE BLOCK Faculty Spotlight: Melissa Tombro by Alyssa Kyle
encourage students to not just work hard at their majors, but to also be diverse and to pursue the things they are passionate about. If you have interests outside of your major, indulge in those as well! Being an interesting and well-rounded person will always inform all of your work and add to the quality of your life. AK: Some say you could go through seven different careers in your lifetime. Was this true for you? Where did you begin your career and how has it changed over the years?
Image courtesy of Melissa Tombro
When you ask Melissa Tombro what she loves to do, YOU LEARN THAT she has many passions to share. As a trained classical singer, she sang with groups including Mark Morris and the Kronos Quartet and recorded vocals for a variety of indie bands. As an actress, she performed in over 30 community theatre productions. As a writer, she has been published for her creative and academic work and presented it in New York City and around the United States. As a lifelong antiquer, she travels the country discovering the nation’s best flea markets. As an FIT professor, Melissa Tombro works in the English Department and serves as a member of the Curriculum Committee. Following your heart really does bring you to good places. Alyssa Kyle: You must have been in school for many years to have such an impressive resume. Do you recommend students continue their education past a Bachelor’s degree? Melissa Tombro: I wasn’t in school as many years as you might suspect. I did a four-year undergraduate degree, one year accelerated masters and only three years in my PhD program, but I suppose eight years can seem like a lot! In between I took time to teach at various colleges and also work abroad as a Lectrice D’Anglais in Metz, France. School can open up many doors for you, but I would always
MT: While I may not have had many careers, I certainly have many passions I have devoted myself to over the years. Volunteerism is a large part of my life. I believe when you support a writer’s voice you empower them as individuals and also give back to their community. I have worked with many open access literacy groups and community writing projects. I am currently on the leader board for the New York Writers Coalition and run creative writing workshops for at risk and underserved populations to empower and heal. Bringing access to art and art education is also important to me and I have done outreach programs for disadvantaged schools through institutions such as the Smart Museum of Art [of the University of Chicago] and the Krannert Art Museum [of the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign].
I’m currently writing a book chronicling the ups and downs of the second-hand life. One of the biggest things in my life, as many already know, is that I come from two generations of antiques dealers and have been doing flea markets and antique shows all over the country since I was born. I remain a collector, appraiser and a lifelong antiquer as you might gather from visiting my office at school. I’m currently writing a book chronicling the ups and downs of the second-hand life! It’s a weird list, but I am a curious person by nature [and I’m] always looking for new experiences and perspectives. I love to learn and always push myself to work as hard as I can and to experience
something new. I hope to continue pursuing my many passions! AK: How did you become an English Professor at FIT? MT: I was once a student at FIT. When I applied for graduate school, I enrolled in the Master’s program in Costume Curation and Conservation while I tried my hand at teaching college English. All the while [I was] trying to decide whether I wanted to enroll in my English PhD program or continue at FIT. My undergraduate advisors thought I was crazy and never understood how I could have two passions that seemed so different. I always had a love for FIT since I was very young. It appealed to my creative and entrepreneurial sides and seemed like the perfect compliment to my background in the antique business. I ultimately chose the PhD, but when I was in graduate school, I saw an ad for a position at FIT and pounced on it. I had to get special permission to leave my PhD program early to apply. Once I was on campus everything felt right and I was offered the position. I think it’s a neat story, how somehow I was able to bring together two loves that were divergent. AK: As a member of the Curriculum Committee, how do you feel your position can make a difference for students? MT: I am proud to represent the Liberal Arts. I have gained such an understanding of how our curriculum is structured and love seeing the energy and passion people bring into the development of new courses and changes to their departments and degree programs. It reinforces for me that, first and foremost, those of us who work at FIT are committed to providing the most valuable experience for our students, staying abreast of new developments in our respective fields and sharing ideas across disciplines to enrich our courses. AK: In your opinion, what makes FIT students different from other college students? MT: FIT students are talented and creative writers who bring the same level of hard work to my class as their major classes. I love the openness of the students at FIT. They are willing to take risks and are never shy about expressing themselves. They are full of ideas and passion and it shows in the classroom and in their writing. I am always excited and amazed by the work I receive from my students. It’s inspiring!
FIT
5
W27
SEPTEMBER 2012
What the Health?: Bon Appétit! by Sarah Dill
Dorm Dish Recipe, photo courtesy of thesisterscafe.com
Counting calories in the cafeteria? There’s an app for that. Whether you’re a freshman or an upper classman, staying healthy and diet-conscious during the school year just got easier. ARAMARK, FIT’s own cafeteria food service provider, has dished out its first interactive mobile app, designed to keep college students in the know about what they are eating, including nutrition facts and daily menu changes. Now students have the opportunity to provide their own personal feedback. "By supporting students' efforts to develop and maintain healthy eating habits, the CampusDish® Mobile App further strengthens our commitment to health and wellness while also enhancing the overall campus dining experience,” said Jenifer Bland-Campbell, RD, senior director of nutrition program development at ARAMARK. Rather than playing a guessing game in the cafeteria, students can now download the CampusDish Mobile App from their smartphone, log into their school’s menu and click away while contemplating their food choices. With my Droid in hand, I took to this new app and picked out some of the best dishes and snacks from in the cafeteria. Here are my top choices:
Sushi stay or sushi go? Rice can be a carb cruncher but if you choose the rolls with brown rice, less avocado and eat half of the portion and save the other, you have chosen wisely young grasshopper.
such as good ol’ mustard or oil and vinegar. Top Choice: Turkey sandwich with lettuce, tomato, roasted red peppers and brown mustard
quite delicious and still good for you without all the unnecessary preservatives.
Salad bar bites
Not ready to give up on summer BBQ food? Gather up your leftover summer peaches from the market, turn on your George Foreman grill or stove top in your dorm and get ready to bring the summer heat indoors, even as the autumn months approach. A dollop of low fat ice cream or fat free Greek yogurt atop your peaches can be a perfect ending to your sweet summer.
Salads may seem like the boring diet choice but with a wide variety of items like black beans, grilled veggies, tofu and other low calorie picks, your salad won’t leave you hungry. Steer clear of things like macaroni salad or other salads loaded with mayo, which can add unneeded fat. Top Choice: Spinach, lettuce, tomato, grilled vegetables, onions, black beans, tofu and a light amount of balsamic vinaigrette
Grill greats Ask for anything to be cooked dry without added oil and go for items grilled rather than breaded. Stick to high protein meats like chicken and fish rather than steak or red meats. Top Choice: Grilled chicken breast or grilled salmon filet
Snacksation For grabbing on the go, choose small yet filling foods like roasted almonds, Special K chips, apples, pretzels with hummus and low fat yogurts. Protein bars may seem like the logical choice but some can pack in high volumes of fat and carbs, making them a poor choice.
Top choice: 6-piece Spicy tuna roll with brown rice
Top Choice: Roasted almonds
Deli do’s
Veg vote
Whole wheat bread can go a long way but carb-loaded baguettes can stay with you too. Opt for sliced wheat bread, lean deli meat for protein and low calorie sauce,
Usually, pre-packaged foods can be loaded with carbs and may be harmful to your immune system, but some of the Vegan and kosher prepackaged dishes can be
Top Choice: Harvest grilled vegetable wrap
**Recipe taken from Skinnytaste.com and provided by Gina Homolka**
Grilled Peaches With Honey and Yogurt Servings: 4 • Serving Size: 1 peach • Points+: 4 pts Calories: 131.5 • Fat: 0.1 g • Protein: 3.4 g • Carb: 31.7 g • Fiber: 2.2 g Ingredients: 4 medium ripe peaches, cut in half (pit removed) 1/2 cup honey flavored fat free Greek yogurt 4 tbsp honey Cinnamon (to taste) Directions: Place peaches cut side down on the grill. Grill on low or indirect heat until soft, about 2–4 minutes on each side. Combine yogurt and cinnamon. Pour 1 tbsp yogurt over each peach half. Drizzle with honey and enjoy.
ON THE BLOCK
There’s A New Tiger in Town by Fernanda DeSouza & Madeline Thompson
Image courtesy of Pentagram
FIT
6
FIT Takes on Ivy Style by Richard Gilmartin
Princeton seniors and alumni surely will.
If one were a curator of a museum on the campus of a fashion school, it would only make sense to build an exhibit inspired by students themselves. On September 14th, The Museum at FIT unveiled its latest exhibition Ivy Style. Celebrating one of the most enduring clothing styles of the 20th century, outfits on display range from 1920’s Brooks Brother’s linen suits to cutting edge, tailored suits by Michael Bastian and Thom Browne’s latest collections.
If you can’t make it to the museum, do not fret; the museum recently re-launched its Online Collections. The website allows the public to freely interact with its world renowned permanent collection. With over 600 items on view from the past 300 hundred years, the public will be able to search, collect and share online images of both garments and fashion accessories. Photography by Richard Gilmartin
FIT kicked off the first week of September by launching its new and long-awaited athletics logo. In the Haft Auditorium on September 6th, students and staff alike attended the unveiling of what was called the “new tiger in town.” Partnering with design firm Pentagram, students, athletes, professors, and coaches have been working since 2010 to develop the new logo to better establish FIT’s athletics department. In keeping with FIT’s traditional Carolina blue and white, Pentagram added a splash of orange with the running, striped tiger. “We did not want a typical collegiate logo,” stated Erik J. Kneubuehl, assistant vice president of enrollment management and student success and dean of students. “We wanted something that looked smooth but had movement and power. It is simple, but when a person outside FIT sees the logo, they will think sports.” Kicked off by FITSA President Ana Swarup and President Joyce Brown praising the achievements of FIT athletic teams, the event showcased the new logo that will adorn the teams’ uniforms, bags, visors, and towels. Students from their respective teams modeled the looks onstage, turning Haft Auditorium into a mini-runway and rousing the crowd at this fashion show turned pep rally. The new tiger was welcomed by a roaring crowd showing its enthusiasm for the beast’s revamped debut. Third semester production management student Jessica Rothman said, “It’s great that we finally have a school logo to promote school spirit.” Calling it a “perfect time to introduce the logo,” Kneubuehl feels the logo evokes a sense of pride even among the students that do not participate in athletic events. “They will see the logo and recognize that the image is their school. Everyone knew we were the tiger, but it was not clearly identified.” Although the logo will only appear on athletic gear and not serve as the official school logo, students not associated with the sports teams will be able to purchase new emblazoned merchandise including sweatpants, sweatshirts, shirts, and bags, at the Barnes & Noble bookstore. Bookstore Manager Carla Bowens shared her excitement stating, “We are pleased and excited to introduce the FIT logo in the bookstore.”
While the ivy league look has come to be viewed as a staple in American culture, in its prime the look was considered cutting edge fashion only worn by wealthy men. Focusing almost exclusively on menswear, over 60 looks were put together to illustrate the origins and modern reinterpretations of the style. The looks are carefully arranged in an environment that evokes the feeling of an actual Ivy League campus. Settings include everything from classrooms to dorm rooms and even ballrooms, with mannequins dressed in everything from linen blazers to full tuxedos. The centerpiece of the exhibit is a beautiful grass
covered quad with a backdrop of a gothic style façade covered in ivy. When visiting the exhibit, be prepared to not only learn the history of prep, but also learn a lesson in high fashion and tailoring. “Students should see Ivy League in its most artistic permutation,” said Patricia Mears, the exhibit’s curator. Current lines such as Band of Outsiders and Thom Browne, who reinterprets prep and fine tailoring in an unconventional way, are both on display at the exhibit. If those aren’t enough to draw you in, the beer suits that were once worn only by
“The Museum at FIT is thrilled to make available this repository of fashion and accessories,” said Museum Director, Dr. Valerie Steele, “access to the museum’s extraordinary collection advances knowledge of fashion, supports research and teaching, and inspires creativity.” The online collection can be found at fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu. Ivy League will be on display from September 14th, 2012 to January 5th, 2013. Admission is free and open to the public.
Carolee Announces Competition Winners by Jaiah Joielle
In honor of the brand’s 40th anniversary, jewelry powerhouse Carolee has collaborated with the Fashion Institute of Technology for a design contest. The contest, titled Carolee: Then and Now, was implemented to usher in fresh and exciting designs while also acknowledging the company’s heritage of providing quality goods at affordable prices. Under the coaching of FIT's jewelry design department and Carolee design professionals, students began the competition last year. In the spring semester of 2012, five lucky winners were selected from a pool of 12 finalists. The competition was comprised of 5 categories: Bridal, Pearls, Fashion, Metals and a "People's Choice" division for which the winner was chosen by way of Facebook votes. Each winner stood to have his or her collection merchandised in major department stores across the country as well as internationally, and receive a $1,000 prize. For each piece sold, Carolee pledged to donate $5 to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Additionally, winning pieces would debut in the windows of Bloomingdale's on 59th St. The winners were: Christine Gonzalez in the Metals category, Palwasha Iqbal for Fashion, Yoonji Choi for Pearls, Prakshi Sharma for Bridal and Elyse Spencer for People's Choice. W27 caught up with Palwasha Iqbal to talk about her experience.
Jaiah Joielle: Tell us about what inspired you while creating this collection. Palwasha Iqbal: I was really going for an art deco feel. I personally love The Great Gatsby and it turns out there’s a movie coming out too, so it’s really on trend and very much with the times. We always remember the Roaring 20s. I watch a lot of black and white movies and when I researched Carolee, a lot of their old pieces had a flapper influence. I thought it would be a great way to commemorate their 40th anniversary and look back on who they were and bring a modern twist into what they’re going to become.
PI: She just went crazy. The fact that I was even competing was amazing. And Carolee, they’re so sweet, they actually sent her a copy of the necklace she bought because it had gotten lost. That’s how she found out I was in the contest and she was just through the roof, through the moon! JJ: So now that you’ve won this competition, how do you feel?
JJ: What inspired you to use rope for the necklace instead of a metal chain? PI: That’s more of a European feel. I was speaking Italian at the time and I was also taking Islamic architecture and they looked back to the Greeks as the beginning. Looking at the European model, they actually prefer less metal and more simplicity. The emphasis is actually on the pendant. In the Western culture, you don’t really see much of that but I think it would be really cool to introduce that idea. JJ: Your mom choose a Carolee pearl necklace as the first piece of jewelry she bought after coming to America from Pakistan when you were a child. Now your designs will be manufactured by Carolee on a national and international scale. Is she proud of you?
Image courtesy of Paul Wilmot Communications
PI: I think it’s still kind of surreal. I kind of just do the work because I love it and the fact that someone appreciates it is wonderful. It’s kind of crazy, it hasn’t completely set in. Every time I go past the C [The Mervin Feldman Center] lobby I’m like: Oh! Hey, that’s mine! And the window, people have been sending me pictures of the window at Bloomingdale’s. I thought it was going to be this tiny window and it’s actually a full blown window. I was in awe. My mind was blown.
7
W27
SEPTEMBER 2012
Future Mode by Marissa Mule
Jackson Pollock once said, “Every painter paints what he is.” This month, I had the opportunity to interview not only a fellow classmate in the Fine Arts major, but also an inspiration to all those aspiring to be a part of the art world. Melissa Estrada is a fifth semester student in the Bachelors program, aspiring to follow her dreams, and work to create a painting style made just for her.
Marissa Mule: How would you classify your painting style? Melissa Estrada: To be honest, I don’t know if I can classify my painting style. I always ask myself, do I even have one? I’m still in the process of figuring out what my own “style” is. I feel as if everyone in my class is trying to do the same thing. MM:What is your dream job? ME: I would really love to work in a museum. The MoMA or The Metropolitan Museum of Art would be the “ideal” goal. I would like to be a part of or participate in a show or exhibit in a gallery. Working with curators would be a dream. I like the idea of being “behind the scenes.” MM: What is your color palette like? ME: When I paint, I tend to mix saturated colors. Many classmates have recently told me that I use the same three colors in all of my paintings They are either different color versions of turquoise, pale yellow and a burnt sienna/burgundy. I tend to stick to my primaries.
Images courtesy of Melissa Estrada
MM: Who/What are your inspirations? ME: I love doing portraiture and figurative drawings. My friends and family give me the motivation to experiment with the figure. MM: When did you start painting/making art? ME: I always drew as a child. I loved it, and still do. I didn’t fully embrace art until my junior year in high school. I always just saw it as a hobby. To be honest, I thought I was making my way into the medical field, but I was convinced by my art teacher to not waste my “talent.” My first experience with oil paint was with my old high school teacher. From that first encounter, I just couldn’t get enough. MM: Do you have a favorite medium? ME: That’s a hard one. I guess my favorite medium is oil paint. Besides that, I like pen and charcoal. MM: Does your own personal style reflect your aesthetic? ME: I think so. I have clothing that matches my three colors oddly enough. But, I don’t wear very intense colors like I usually make my color palette. I like my muted, neutral colors.
ON THE BLOCK
FIT
8
Icon: Fit Magazine Gets Makeover by Chloe Dewberry on changing design and layout, including perfect binding, bigger spreads, different paper and a more catchy cover,” Beltran said. One of the main goals of the new design was to more accurately showcase students’ work. Student paintings and photography are now given full page spreads instead of smaller images as seen in previous issues. The art spreads are eye-catching and the stories and poems are displayed in a neat and professional way that makes it hard to look away.
Image courtesy of Francesca Beltran
This year’s Icon magazine, a FITSA sponsored publication that showcases different student media from poetry and short stories to different types of art and design, received a major facelift. EditorIn-Chief, Francesca Beltran, who is also a W27 writer, and her staff played plastic surgeon and are responsible for the radical redesign of the publication. This year’s edition is like no issue of Icon ever seen, since it looks like an actual magazine that you could grab off any newsstand. “We focused a little bit more
“We want every student showcased to feel proud of the way they’re being featured. We wanted them all to feel equally important,” Beltran added. An updated aspect of the magazine is how easy it is to submit creative work to be considered for later issues. Students can simply email their attached artwork or written pieces and their release forms to the publication.
staff is seeking new members to join the team and learn how a magazine comes together. Even though it may resemble an expensive art book that money-strapped students might have to drop $20.00 for at the bookstore, Icon is available for free in the lobby of each building and on the 7th floor of the Dubinsky Student Center. Students no longer need to purchase the latest issue of V magazine to discover fresh young talent; look no further than FIT’s Icon magazine. To submit creative work to Icon email iconmagazinefit@gmail.com and attach your artwork or written work (images should be 300 dpi high resolution) and release forms, which can be found outside of room A725. Students interested in joining the staff can meet in room A725 on Tuesdays at 1 PM starting in October.
The layout of the magazine isn’t the only thing changing and developing this year. The staff of Icon is getting in touch with its techie side by developing a presence on social media sites and creating a new webpage, which will keep students up to date on various FIT showcases. Desiree Portugues, Justin Hernandez and Courtney Enos were the graphic and web designers behind the 2012 redesign, but there’s always room for new talent and the
AMC Launches Shanghai Internship Program for 2013 by Richard Gilmartin
The Advertising and Marketing Communications program at FIT is happy to announce the upcoming introduction of a summer work placement program in Shanghai China. Similar to the current program in London, England, the program will offer hands on experience in the fields of advertising, public relations, corporate communications, journalism, broadcast production and direct marketing while also allowing students to experience a new culture. The program will run from May
27th through June 21st, 2013. All students are accompanied by faculty members and housing will be provided by FIT. Working in Shanghai will provide students with experience in the fastest growing economy in the world. Aside from involvement in the workplace, students will also have a better understanding of how cultural differences between the United States and the host country impact the integrated marketing communications process.
For more information please attend one of the following orientation dates: Thur. Oct. 4, 5–6 PM, Room A684 Thur. Oct. 11, 5–6 PM, Room A684 Tue. Oct. 16, 1–2 PM, Room B303 Tue. Oct. 23, 1–2 PM, Room B303
FIT Premieres Retail Management Certificate Program by Madeline Thompson The Fashion Institute of Technology and the National Retail Federation (NFR) developed a new course, known as the Retail Management Certificate Program. The course is specifically geared toward educating students about the operation of retail stores both domestically and internationally. The program is designed for students who fulfilled the requirements to continue their baccalaureate degree or those who have completed a minimum of five years mid-tier retail experience. It is not designed for students who have already received a baccalaureate degree
in Fashion Merchandising Management because the courses overlap.
of store operations management and retail management strategies.
Students enrolled in the five-course, 14-credit program, will study the management needed in order to successfully compete in the competitive and evolving retail industry. Over the three semesters, students will develop the skills necessary to advance to an executive-level in the retail industry by completing the required courses, such as Excel for business, case studies in fashion merchandising, leadership development for retailing, dynamics
The course launched this fall and classes take place on evenings and weekends. Two courses in fall, two courses in spring and one course in summer are offered to accommodate full time employees. For more information about the Retail Management Certificate Program, visit fitnyc.edu/11604.asp.
FIT Campus’ New High Profile Signage by Mollie Yarsike Escalators, security at every building, Starbucks in the cafeteria, a location in the heart of NYC, and the buildings known only by letters are just a few of the things that set FIT apart from many colleges in New York, and across the United States. FIT’s block-long campus makes it very easy for students to navigate their way to the classroom, especially since there are only five different buildings, each formally labeled with the letters A through E. This past summer though, students received an email stating that the buildings would no longer be referred to by their letter name, but by the donors whose contributions made the school what it is today. This email caused a silent uproar among many students who knew they would be confused, because they had never called the buildings their actual name. Though this idea may confound many students, it makes FIT as a whole, more of a college campus rather than a place where you just go to take classes and show off your outfit. It’s a controversial idea, sprung upon students suddenly, but it is also an idea respected by those who have donated money to keep FIT up and running. When asked how she felt about the name change, Jojo Leone, a textiles student, said, “FIT is crazy for changing the names of the buildings. It’s more confusing and I’m not sure if I’ll adjust as quickly as they want us to.” Clearly not all students are happy, but change can’t please everyone. In reality, the change isn’t a problem for new students who came to FIT after it had been implemented, but it definitely affects those who currently are enrolled. In the end, the name changes will unify the campus and the donors will be better recognized for their impact on FIT.
9
W27
SEPTEMBER 2012
by Camilla Mayer
9. DaVinci Artist Supply 132 W 21st St New York, NY 10011 DaVinci Artist Supply is a bit of a trek down Seventh Avenue, but well worth it for their variety of artisan paper. After stopping at Trader Joe’s around the corner, take a quick trip and pick up your supplies for the school week ahead.
1. Frying Pan Pier 66 Maritime New York, NY 10001 Walk down Pier 66 and onto a docked boat known as the Frying Pan, a great place to grab a drink with friends and soak in the romantic views.
4.
10.
Blue Bottle
Ace Hotel
450 W 15th St. New York NY 10011
20 W 29th St. New York, NY 10001
Stop and refuel at Blue Bottle coffee shop after a long day. A San Francisco import, the shop is sleek with modern design and trendy customers from Milk Studios next door. The sweet iced coffee is a favorite, because of its full flavor and subtle notes.
Stop by the Ace Hotel to enjoy a Stumptown latte in the William and Roman designed lobby. When you’re finished, take a short walk down the hall to Opening Ceremony where you can shop for the latest fashions.
5.
7.
11.
Patsy’s Pizzeria
Grey Dog
Eataly
318 W 23rd St. New York, NY 10011
242 W 16th St. New York, NY 10011
200 5th Ave. New York, NY 10010
A great sit down spot, Patsy’s deliciously thin crust pizza is a local favorite that never disappoints. Right off the A/C/E line, it’s a great spot to grab dinner before heading home.
This cozy Chelsea favorite is a cafe nestled quietly between residential homes. Walk down some short steps and you’re greeted by a pleasant mix of groups, laptops and lively chatter.
6.
8.
This Italian marketplace will offer you a variety of beautifully designed goods and sit down eating options. After lunch with friends, it’s always a thrilling experience to exit through the doors that open up to the iconic Flatiron Building.
Chelsea Market
Chelsea Cottage’s Viet Grill
Trader Joe’s
75 9th Ave. New York, NY 10011
206 9th Ave. New York, NY 10011
Chelsea Market is one of the quintessential city hot spots. If you are a food connoisseur, enjoy the assortments of shops filled with fresh lobster, wine and other delicious treats, or grab a bite to eat after a walk on the Highline.
With fall just around the corner, head to Chelsea Cottage’s Viet Grill for some heart warming pho noodle soup. A short walk west of school, the array of Vietnamese dishes are always a hit.
2. Highline Park 519 W 23rd St. New York, 10011 This elevated park is a must see in New York and only a short walk from school. Escape to an oasis of carefully curated plants and urban landscaping.
3.
675 6th Ave New York, NY 10011 A must shop grocery store, this popular chain is equipped with everything imaginable. Try the cult-favorite cookie butter, or the quick-selling dill pickles. Lines will stretch around the entire store, but don’t let that scare you, because they move quickly.
12. Shake Shack Madison Square Park E 23rd St. & Madison Ave. New York, NY 10010 Don’t let the long lines at this neighborhood hot spot keep you from enjoying the grass fed beef and fresh ingredients on Shake Shack’s menu.
DEAR INDUSTRY CFDA Incubator by Arushi Khosla
The Council of Fashion Designers of America is the official fairy godmother of the fashion industry. Between President Diane Von Furstenberg, CEO Steven Kolb and the annual CFDA Awards, everyone even remotely interested in the industry knows the acronym all too well. W27 had the pleasure of sitting down with the manager of the CFDA Incubator, Johanna Stout and Daniel Vosovic. Vosovic is a famed Project Runway alumni (and FIT graduate), who is currently one of the designers housing his studio at the Incubator. The Incubator is essentially a business development program for young designers which the CFDA nurtures because of their extraordinary talent. They shared their career path and kindly offered some much needed, priceless advice and tips for the future generation of industry professionals. Johanna Sout: Manager Fashion Incubator at the CFDA Arushi Khosla: So you started by going to a liberal arts school in Minnesota? Johanna Sout: I did! Well, I wanted a typical collegiate experience so I decided to go the traditional route and go to a liberal arts school at University of Minnesota Twin Cities. I eventually realized though that it wasn’t the best fit and that I needed to head East to New York. AK: How did you decide that Parsons was your calling? JS: Intuition. It sounds cheesy but listen to your heart. There was no verifiable
way of really knowing it was the right decision. I just knew I was interested in fashion and trying to access the industry from the Midwest was a challenge to say the least. Being at Parsons and in New York meant I could immerse myself in it and really learn about it firsthand—two crucial things. I applied to a slew of schools in New York and got in and then picked Parsons. Listen to your gut. You’ll usually be right. AK: Of all your various experiences and internships, what led you to pursue working with the CFDA? JS: Interning and volunteering is paramount. In November, two months after being in Parsons’ AAS marketing program, I volunteered at the CFDA’s sale as a runner at the gala. It was my first real foray and immersion into the industry. All I really did was run receipt tickets from the vendor to the cash register. But being at the event and seeing the type of work the CFDA was doing, the type of community it included, I knew that this is where I wanted to work. I interned there during the last semester at school and wanted to work there. I identified with the mission of the company. Its a non profit organization, which means its a small team and they didn’t have an open position. So I went to work for the Krupp Group. But even there, what I loved most about the job was working with a designer who was upcoming and new and who was learning the business. I was just drawn to helping smaller companies, giving them those requisite tools and resources to grow the brand. So when a position opened at the CFDA, I made sure to apply and got it. AK: What do you personally look for in an intern? Apart from someone who takes initiative and all those obvious traits, what is the best way to stand out? JS: Everyone values different traits and qualities, depending on the environment and where they work. For me personally, its enthusiasm more than anything. If you’re enthusiastic about learning about the industry then you’re golden. Your generation has limitless access to so much information and so many different Photography by Daniel Graindorge
platforms.. All that was often something you got through internships so now that you already have all that, we have to rethink what we offer you. Internships are for you guys, to educate you. People are generally more qualified now. My favorite intern ever was a blogger with the most stunning photography blog. That’s what won me over, that’s what got her the
The right people can do amazing things, it depends on the drive. internship. Put your signature in your emails and include all social media links. You're applying for a creative position! If your accounts (Twitter, Pinterest, etc.) are focused, specific and professional, put them in. I don't want to know that you have an account on said platforms, I want to know you engage, interact and have a presence. AK: Digital is the way of the future. So what programs and platforms does one absolutely have to maintain a presence on today? Is reaching out to a professional on Twitter too much? What’s a tactful way of reaching out to someone via social media? JS: Just avoid Facebook. Because in the current online space, Twitter and Pinterest, Instragram and Tumblr are visual and social. Facebook is the only one that still remains overwhelmingly personal. I mean, everybody knows how to use it, its not a big deal. It doesn’t need to be on your signature or your resume. LinkedIn is probably your best bet. The best way is to go through a work email, try your luck on the phone. The phone is underrated. So much quick progress can be made by picking up the phone and its a good skill to practice! Email, phone, LinkedIn. Twitter can be too informal at times. If you’re Twitter friends and they’re tweeting back at you, there’s engagement back and forth, then yes, you can. Again, I wouldn’t send a DM unless they have sent one first. Once you have a relationship with a supervisor in an internship, for example, always take lead from them, don’t be the initiator. That’s the gist of it. Remain professional.
Daniel Vosovic: Fashion Designer and Incubator Tenant AK: So you actually went to FIT! How was your experience there, in terms of
molding your aesthetic as a designer? Daniel Vosovic: Let me start off by saying this—FIT is what you make of it. There are premier opportunities for gaining knowledge and know-how from a wide variety of qualified people. You make connections through school because being in New York means everything is at your doorstep and you get to network a lot. Yes to all. But the school doesn’t necessarily step up and push you to do things. You have to have that courage and drive to reach out and make things happen and take advantage of the given opportunities. From the designer standpoint—it is very much a beacon of what American fashion stands for. [FIT’s] commercially driven, production and manufacturing [aspects] tie into the curriculum and they have connections with all major designers and retailers. However, what I would suggest is that you recognize what is possibly missing and stop complaining. You make it happen. Supplement your growing career through outside connections, internships and resources. You have the opportunity to do all that, considering the location. Don’t rely 100% on the school’s core. AK: From Michigan to New York—was that a huge transition? How did your hometown shape your artistic vision? DV: So quick backstory: I was a competitive gymnast and heading to Ohio State to major in architecture. But after the endless broken bones and surgeries at 18, I decided to give it up. But with it, I gave up my scholarship, attending a Big 10 School and all that came with it. Without the scholarship, I couldn’t afford to go to school so begrudgingly, I started studying at a local community college. There, I took some architecture prep courses and hated it. It was too slow, involved too many people and too many little changes. Next semester, I took a sewing course on a whim where I made everything from boxer shorts to cocktail dresses. It used all my knowledge of art history, sculpture, design and funneled it into fashion. To pursue it as a career, the goal was of course, FIT. Though it is cost efficient on a comparative scale, it was still too much for me, especially with the significant added cost of living in New York. So for two-and-a-half years, I continued to take classes at community college. They had no design degree so I took several courses 2 to 3 times, eventually auditing the class and working with the professor. In the process, I worked in charity fashion shows. Point being, I made something from the options I had in front of me, knowing it would get me where I wanted to be. Then, I got accepted to and got my one year AAS at FIT. I moved to Italy for study abroad which broke down my learning of the past four years. The first lesson was to take the shape given to us and create a dress or top but to do it while only having five percent of the original shape on the floor. It was
DEAR INDUSTRY
FIT
12 Photography by Daniel Graindorge
AK: Since then, you’ve been involved in a variety of projects from art direction to working with rebranding a hotel. How did you find your niche as a designer? DV: Interning and working for other designers, big companies and small companies. I’ve been second assistant and creative director. I jumped around for four to five years, climbing, trying, feeling my way around. Young people don’t understand that right there, in that moment, is the most creative you’ll ever be allowed to be. There will always be someone telling you to do things a certain way after. In school, you can get a bad grade, but you can be as creative and expansive as you want to. That’s how you find your niche. Work. AK: And tell us more about Fashion Inside Out, your book. With heavyweights like Nina Garcia, DVF & Tim Gunn contributing, it’s something.
a different level. It made my education well rounded. Then I moved to London where I’d gotten a job at a showroom and finished my Bachelor’s at FIT. AK: Most people recognize you from Project Runway. Tell us about that. Is it tiring to be associated with the show continually?
DV: It isn’t tiring, I wouldn’t say. Fashion moves so fast. Its an ever-hungry beast; it always wants something new. So you use what you can. If I’d outfitted Lady Gaga for a tour 6 or 7 years ago, do you think people would still be talking about it? This, if people can still talk about it, it’s great but it was 7 years ago.
DV: I was approached to write the book and was told to pen a sewing guide. It was too one-note. That’s not for me. So I thought that a how-to guide, in regards to design, would be more informative and useful. Interviews with experts, showing this is what they do, this is how they do it. It was like a time stamp for where I was in my career. I had so many questions! Like, how did Proenza become Proenza? I wanted to answer questions like that for students. AK: You went on to launch your own collection in 2010—how did you know it was time? And what are the biggest challenges associated with young upstart labels today in your opinion?
DV: While I was doing my time for other brands, I was building my own brand. I had a finance adviser and a plan. Your business component is more prevalent than you can possibly imagine. My adviser told me that it was going to happen for me sooner than I thought because I had to do it while people still remembered my name (from Project Runway)—I didn’t think I could have my own label till at least 35! So he said, lets build some things, trademarks, LLC, etc. In five years, I had my financial advisor, lawyer, business plan from a Fortune 500 CEO and four investors ready to go. And THEN, I started designing. That’s what creatives and design students need to remember— you could be amazingly talented and have incredible ideas and nobody would know. It’s all supported by the finance. You can have talent, drive, creativity, vision, substance and make the perfect dress but people won’t flock to it without the marketing, finance, and sales all geared and good to go. Don’t underestimate how much the business side consumes. AK: Lastly, does being associated with the CFDA change the way people think of the brand? DV: I love analogies so I'll try and to word it as if I were a musician. It’s as if you’re singing a very good song for many seasons and there are great people in the audience except now its significantly fuller. More people are interested, more with the power to do something about it. Same song, little bigger, better audience.
f n o
hoopla While you were impatiently waiting for Chairlift to perform at Prada, W27’s photographer Jessica Farkas hit the streets, snapping the night’s best dressed revelers. See what went down on this fun filled Fashion’s night out. by Jessica Farkas
13
W27
SEPTEMBER 2012
Beauty Buzz
Saving Face: Autumn Spf by Dianna Mazzone
Image courtesy of adeupbyhannah.blogspot.com
The secret to perfect skin year round? It’s probably in your beach bag! SPF wear isn’t just a summer phenomenon—it’s an everyday beauty “must” that will one day spare you, not only from wrinkles, but also from a slew of serious skin related medical problems. According to a recent survey by the American Academy of Dermatology and LEO Pharma, only 1 in 7 Americans, around 14%, wear sunscreen on a daily basis. The study also revealed that only 1 in 7 Americans are reportedly concerned for the health of their skin, while in comparison nearly half of the population vocalized concern about weight related issues. As cases of melanoma are diagnosed at an alarming rate, it’s become increasingly clear that not only beauty, but also health, truly lie skin deep. “People should wear at least SPF 30 every day, rain or shine, January through December, regardless of their ethnicity,” said Jeanine Downie, M.D., director of Image Dermatology P.C. in Montclair, New Jersey, in a statement to Vogue last year. Dread the thought of applying a coat of SPF to your face daily? Or worse— smelling like a beach-goer on a sunny July day in Florida on a chilly autumn
afternoon in New York? Replace your daily primer with an SPF infused tinted moisturizer or face cream. “The important thing is that you have it on,” stressed Dr. Downie. No matter what the formula, dermatologists agree: sunscreens labeled “broad spectrum” or “UVA/UVB” successfully protect against harmful rays that cause aging and burning, respectively—even in the autumn and winter months. UV rays in particular have the ability to penetrate through windows, even reflecting powerfully upon snow, making daily, year-round SPF wear a true health necessity. In June of this year, the FDA implemented stricter policies for determining which sunscreens and SPF enriched products could truly claim to combat these rays and be deemed “broad spectrum,” a victory for skin health advocates and outdoor lovers alike.
FEATURE
FIT
14
Stylist: Freddy Rodriguez Model: Caitlin Corcoran Photographer: Fernanda DeSouza Make-Up Artist: Maria Baez (Looks clockwise from left) Look 1 Bracelet/ Necklace/ Earrings: Lulu Frost Top: Addison Jacket: Walter Baker Pants: Walter Baker Bag: Caffe Look 2 Sweater: John and Jean Top: Walter Baker Collar: Line Knitwear Pants: Big Star Accessories: Lulu Frost Shoes Pour La Victoire Bag: Caffe Look 3 Necklace/ Earrings: Lulu Frost Sweater: Addison Jacket: Walter Baker Pants: Big Star Look 4 Dress: Addison Jacket: Walter Baker Accessories: Lulu Frost Bag: Jennifer Haley Shoes: Pour La Victoire Look 5 (On the Cover) Top: Walter Baker Skirt: Walter Baker Jacket: Walter Baker Necklace: Lulu Frost Shoes: Pour La Victoire Bralets: Beck Shoes: Pour La Victoire
15
SEPTEMBER 2012
DYNAMIC INS T INC T
W27
With autumn around the corner, it’s time to store our summer wardrobes and wrap up in fall styles. Staple pieces such as statement coats and hints of vibrant colors will add to the emphasis of this season’s trends, with five looks any girl would fall for.
FEATURE
FIT
16
NYFW REVIEWS Ralph Lauren by Venus Wong
Michael Bastian by Rich Gilmartin and Alyssa Kyle
Photography by Venus Wong
When Ralph Lauren came out and greeted the fervent crowd for his Spring/Summer 2013 collection's finale, it became evident that at 72, he is the true remaining tour de force of American fashion. Unlike the high-profile media frenzy many of his contemporaries have opted for, the show was more of an intimate affair, orchestrated to evoke the glamour of a private atelier showing from days gone by. This achievement was no easy fête for the Ralph Lauren public relations team, as they scurried the likes of Jessica Alba and Olivia Wilde to the front row for the 10AM western press runway
show, and seated industry luminaries like Linda Fargo and Andre Leon Talley at the second show for foreign press, occurring a mere hour later. Inspired by the artistry of handmade crafts from Spain, the collection was high-drama with vibrant matador suits, jodhpurs and ruffled dresses. The intricate details, such as embroidered leather patches, wool berets and loosely-tied scarves evoke a joyous bohemian theme, and are sure to appear in many fashion editorials for months to come.
Hervé Léger by Max Azria by Caroline Nelson
Each season, Max and Lubov Azria, the husband and wife team behind former French couture label and celebrity favorite Hervé Léger, reinvent its signature bandage dress to critical acclaim and Spring/ Summer 2013 was no exception. In this latest collection, the designers turned their eye to the South for inspiration, drawing on the work of quilters in Gee’s Bend, Alabama to stitch new life into the old staple.
Photography by Caroline Nelson
Models strutted down the divided runway in dual color body-con dresses with black or beige harnesses that fit seamlessly over the waist and chest, accentuating the tight silhouettes. As the show went on, the pieces became increasingly complex, with flared A-line skirts and multicolored prints providing contrast to basic white, brown and black stripes. Many looks featured intricately woven strips of fabric that swirled around the body, such as an alabaster and nude top and pants set covered entirely in passementerie appliqué and cinched with a nude leather belt. Others had silver chain interlacing, a subtle way to add shine and interest the label’s basic silhouettes. The real standout, however, were the four one-piece playsuits, which transformed the passementerie appliqué and skinny bandage strips into sexy garments for lounging by the beach in St. Tropez.
Photo courtesy of ideason8.com
On a Sunday afternoon, Michael Bastian occupied Milk Studios in the Meatpacking District for a presentation of his Spring/ Summer 2013 collection. Hundreds of guests including Nick Wooster, John Jannuzzi, and Valentine Uhovski crowded in the sleek white-carpeted space. The intimate crowd made for a comfortable setting, allowing guests to truly focus on the collection. The line read “American Man” as each look together created the American man’s ideal wardrobe. The rare combination of active-wear, suits, cashmere sweaters, and different textures formed a universal style around Michael Bastian’s mantra. The short-fitting swimwear, carefree-styled suits, and muted pastel colors kept the line feeling young and spirited. The lyrics of “Love to Love You Baby” by Donna Summer captured the
provocative side of the line. As each model strutted down the runway, the audience’s blood pumped faster with each step. And just to make things a bit more interesting, Bastian threw in a curveball. Out of all 47 menswear looks, he chose to add one female to the mix. Her look was styled like the rest of the collection, presenting a surprise to the audience. This spring, be prepared “to love to love” the pastels, textures, color blocking, and carefree styling of Michael Bastian.
17
W27
SEPTEMBER 2012
Ruffian by Caroline Nelson
Brian Wolk and Claude Morais, the design duo behind the New York label Ruffian, were inspired by their neighborhood of Williamsburg, Brooklyn for the Spring/Summer 2013 season. Founded in 2004 as a line of high-end neckpieces, Ruffian’s Victorian style has lent itself to everything from lipstick to fine jewelry. Their latest collection combined the casual cool of Brooklyn style with couturelike construction techniques in a unique juxtaposition of dressy and casual.
Photography by Caroline Nelson
Many pieces, from silk bras to puff skirts with double bubble hems, were covered in a special toile print featuring scenes of Williamsburg, including the waterfront and the Bedford Cheese Shop, created with the visual artist John Gordon Gauld. Models with buoyant bouffants walked the runway in Converse sneakers, lending an irreverent air to the luxurious fabrics
Sachin + Babi
A Fashionable Romance: Rock ’n’ Roll meets Nomadic Spirit by Alyssa Kyle
When a fashion design student and a textiles student get together they create a great design team—and a great couple. In 1994, Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia, met as students at the Fashion Institute of Technology and began their lives together. They spent the following decade dedicating their time to one another—and their three blooming companies: ANK Embroideries, Ankasa and Sachin + Babi, their three-year-old contemporary brand for the young, chic and confident woman. On September 11th, at Cedar Lake on West 26th St., Sachin+Babi debuted their Spring/Summer 2013 collection in their second runway show. The front row was filled with A-listers including J. Errico and Dani Stahl of Nylon Magazine, Kelly Framel of The Glamourai, Miss USA, Olivia Culpo, and Miss Universe, Leila Lopes. The brick backdrop and concrete catwalk served as complements to each look of the collection. From the first look to the last, the audience was led on a nomadic journey. The tiered oyster lace maxi skirt and eggshell linen embroidered jacket embraced the free-spirited persona of a woman, while the crystal embellished smoking suit recognized rock and roll confidence. Timeless pieces were revamped with exquisite design and detail, transforming the classic denim jacket into a chic contemporary statement. The final look spoke loudly as the red multi-layer tulle embroidered skirt graced the runway, romanticizing the blend of rock and roll and bohemian style. The Sachin + Babi Spring/Summer 2013 collection is complete with powerful pieces that dictate the edgy and original confidence of a woman.
Photos courtesy of Sachin + Babi
and adding to the collection’s striking contrast in materials. In one look, a white pima cotton t-shirt with a safety pin and cameo print was worn with a pink and white brocade peplum jacket and matching Bermuda shorts. Another look consisted of a beautifully constructed corset in blue and white ticking stripe fabric with flattering boning over a flowing cotton smock shirt and loose navy pants in metallic silk. This eclectic styling may be difficult for the everyday consumer to wear with ease, but Wolk and Morais succeeded in creating a fun, young collection appropriate for everything from a day at the office to a party outdoors. For a closer look at the collection produced by WFIT visit: wfitnyc. com/2012/09/14/ruffian-spring-2013/
DEAR INDUSTRY
FIT
18
Jenn Rogien:
The Style Maven Behind HBO’s GIRLS by Fernanda DeSouza
With HBO’s hit show GIRLS attracting nothing short of a cult following, it’s no surprise that we find celebrated costume designer Jenn Rogien working behind the curtains to style the show’s New York darlings. W27 had the pleasure of catching up with Rogien, hoping to reveal her secret finesse in the art of styling, find out what attracted her to this project and have a look at her true life quest to make it big in New York.
Photo courtesy of socialitelife.com
Fernanda de Souza: How do you pull off the right outfit to represent New York without falling into the stereotypical “New Yorkers only wear black” hole? What kind of research contributes to the costume creation? Jenn Rogien: One of the amazing things about GIRLS is that the whole show prefers gritty realism to on-the-nose expectation. I try to reflect that with the wardrobe for every character on the show. The girls are young and transitioning into their lives in New York, which allows for a lot of freedom and color and texture in their clothes. I’m finding that “New Yorkers only wear black” isn’t as true as it once was, particularly in Brooklyn where the show is set. We do lots and lots of research for the characters and for specific scenes for each episode. We’re finding that people are mixing color and texture and pattern in really cool and sophisticated ways and not just on the runway. I take that inspiration and translate it to the show wherever I can. We’re constantly looking at street style photography, fashion blogs, the runways, young indie designers collections, store windows, Etsy, and most importantly our fellow New Yorkers for inspiration and research. One of the things I love about my job is that people watching equals research. FD: How do you choose each outfit for the show’s characters? Are the outfits determined by the episode, the character’s traits, or both? JR: Yes! Rather, both. We created a look for each character in our first fitting of season one. That look cameout of research and script descriptions and creative meetings with Lena [Dunham, the show’s creator]. Once the character look is established, it gets adjusted to the needs of each episode. That being said, I always look to character when pulling anything. FD: What attracted you to GIRLS?
JR: The writing is incredibly brave and I saw a bit of my first years in New York in the characters. FD: What is your relationship with director and creator Lena Dunham like and how does this relationship contribute to your work on the show? JR: Lena is amazing—she is both a collaborator and a guiding force for me on the show. She created the world of GIRLS and all the unconventional characters who live in it, so she knows their idiosyncrasies intimately. Her insight helps guide the wardrobe for every episode.
apartment with three other girls so we could all afford rent. At one point, I actually bought 2x4s and sheetrock from Home Depot and built a wall in the living room to create a third bedroom. We couldn’t afford the fancy temporary walls that some buildings provide. Career-wise I’ve been fortunate to transition fairly smoothly from the corporate world to the freelance world with a stop at Parsons to ease the jump. FD: GIRLS has been called a “postmodern Sex and the City.” How do you distinguish GIRLS from other successful womencentric shows such as SATC and how do you think women relate to these characters compared to those on SATC? JR: One of the things that drew me to the show is that I saw myself in these girls. In my 20s, I made some of the same bad choices, struggled with paying rent, dated some questionable guys, muddled through an entry level job. I watched SATC to catch a glimpse of the way it could be, if only on TV. I suspect that a lot of women feel the same—I identify with Hannah, I aspired to be Carrie. FD: If you were a character on GIRLS who would you be and why?
Photo courtesy of HBO
FD: What has been the most challenging and rewarding experience as costume designer for the show?
JR: I really want to be Ray—all that pithy wisdom thinly veiled in sarcasm. He’s a voice of reason in a weird way. FD: What was your worst fashion mishap?
JR: I’m used to focusing on making the leading lady look amazing. With Hannah I focus on making her look real and often NOT great. That has taken a little getting used to! Being part of a show that embraces a different approach is pretty great. FD: The show’s characters certainly have many problems to deal with as twentysomethings in New York. What were some of the challenges you faced when you began your career here? JR: I shared my first 2-bedroom
JR: Wearing a black sleeveless tee with the word “TROUBLE” bedazzled on the chest to my corporate job. I got the “dress code” talk the next day. FD: What is your one guilty pleasure about New York City? JR: Being able to take a taxi and let someone else do the driving.
19
W27
SEPTEMBER 2012
Creating a Material Wrld by Caroline Nelson
From left, Jie Zheng and Rie Yano. Photography by Kevin Buitrago
Image courtesy of Material Wrld
Behind a small black door inscribed with the words, “WeWork,” hides an innovation hub with pinball machines in the waiting areas and skateboards mounted on the walls. Between the many glass cubicles and conference rooms, Rie Yano and Jie Zheng, friends and Harvard Business School graduates, are building the next fashion marketplace, one that encourages community and efficient design, kind of like their office.
creating the eBay for fashion,” Yano said. “Jie and I just knew from working in fashion and just being in New York that most of the people who are fashion enthusiasts are not going to these marketplaces on a day-to-day basis. Their current activity is actually on Instagram, it’s on Pinterest, it’s on Tumblr, it’s on their own blog, it’s on Twitter. They’re going to these discovered content sites to really showcase their style.”
Material Wrld, an online fashion destination that launched Thursday, August 30th, is part social network, part off-price outlet. Users can follow their favorite fashion icons and shop their closets, while fashion influentials like the Synder sisters of Dannijo and FIT’s own Nicole Loher can “humble brag” about their favorite pieces and sell former favorites. Though this may seem similar to shopping for vintage fashion on eBay or through the supplemental pages of fashion blogs, Material Wrld co-founder, Yano insists that it’s not.
Showcasing personal style on the site is easy with Material Wrld’s closet pages that feature personal header images, profile information and a clean design; elements bloggers and social media addicts are accustomed to. Approved sellers can list favorite items for sale through a one-step process and purchase information is saved in case users want to resell an item they bought on the site. If an item sells, Material Wrld takes only 15% of the profit, a far smaller margin than that of consignment shops, and sends sellers a premade shipping label for them to print at home. The site even provides packaging materials for an extra fee. All these features were added so users can save time and better connect with their audience.
As someone who has tried everything from eBay to consignment to resell her designer purchases, Yano, a native of Japan, has had many less than stellar experiences with fashion resale. Tired of getting next to nothing for high end merchandise at Beacon’s Closet and too embarrassed to continue selling, even anonymously, on eBay’s cluttered interface, Yano and her co-founder decided to create their own platform in August of last year. “The fashion resale market is kind of a hot space right now in the US and there are a few emerging competitors that just kind of popped up over the past year and most of them are really focused on
It’s the sense of community and discovery that really sets Material Wrld apart, however. Material Wrld closets are screened and approved by the founders before going live, and at this point, users can only log in though their Facebook or Twitter accounts. All of this is designed to attract younger, more social users and to allow the influentials to tap into their existing networks and grow their following even more. “For us the focus is that we’re going to be curated and very exclusive, so unlike other marketplaces that are just like, bang! Open to anyone,
a boutique can be on it, a reseller can be on it, a vintage shop can be on it, for us it’s all about the closets of individuals,” explained Yano. Even though not everyone can sell on the site, Material Wrld provides a fun and interactive user experience for all. Prior to the official launch, the site hosted an Instagram contest for two weeks, asking users to upload their favorite pieces. “The idea came out of our desire to really send out a message that we’re not just about being a marketplace for used goods. We’re a place where you’re going to be showcasing your awesome style,” Yano said. Material Wrld used the contest as a form of social media marketing and Yano hopes to further the site’s relationship with the photo app through Instagram integration in the future. “We just want to facilitate the process of making it easy for users, not to have to go in and take photos of everything because they want to sell, but really make it into a fun place,” said Yano, “the commerce part is like a second thought almost.”
HAUTE CULTURE A Secondhand Look by Samantha Vance
You made it! You’re most likely either inhabiting the fresh FIT dorms or kicking it in a new apartment. Either way you’re on your own, living independently, in New York City. If you haven’t noticed by now, it’s crazy expensive to totally deck out your pad in Anthropologie’s home collection. Picture frames are ten times more than they should be and even Pier 1’s bargains add up. Alas, all hope is not lost on your charming décor daydreams. While New York City boasts some of the most lavish home collections, it’s also home to some of the best flea markets and thrift stores. Kick your wallet worries and start thrifting! Make your way to vintage headquarters, Brooklyn that is, for sweet finds at sweet prices. The Brooklyn Flea hosts two markets every weekend in two of the borough’s hippest neighborhoods. Saturday in Fort Greene and Sunday in Williamsburg, you’ll find a plethora of repurposed furniture, homespun creations and authentic treasures from over 100 vendors. The price points at these weekly shindigs are shockingly impressive. Sightings of vintage dressers for $60
and handcrafted 70s era handbags for $20 are among a few great steals—not to mention an average delivery cost of $40 in Brooklyn. If you’re in desperate need of furniture or trinkets, but are searching for somethinga little closer to home base, famed antique bazaar, The Garage, is conveniently located on 25th St. Your schlep home won’t be as painful and you’ll get some coveted goodies out of it as well. The place is notorious for great collectibles, celebrity spotting and, unfortunately, tourist prices. However, don’t be afraid to bargain with the vendors for a piece you really love. Another nearby sweet spot by the same owner is The Hells Kitchen Flea Market. This outdoor mecca trades everything from old-fashioned clothes hangers and wooden crates to leather shoes and cameo necklaces. It draws quite a crowd each week, so be sure arrive early.
Works Thrift Shop. They have a few locations on the island and a convenient bidding page on their website so you can monitor new inventory and place your bid stat! Another hidden gem, concealed in a shabby part of Brooklyn near the Jefferson St. L train stop is Green Village Thrift. This warehouse is literally stocked floor to ceiling with furniture, glassware, antique collectibles and more. The collection is seemingly endless. Be prepared to dig for your goods, but once you find that perfect coffee table you’ll be delighted by a typical modest price of $50.
Thrift stores are another great option because of their constant fresh stock and also since they aren’t exclusively weekend operations. If you’re sticking to Manhattan, check the totally hip Housing
Photography by Samantha Vance
Where to go ΩΩ Brooklyn Flea | Fort Greene Saturday (Thru Nov. 17), 10 AM–5 PM, Rain or Shine, 176 Lafayette Ave. (between Clermont + Vanderbilt Ave.)
Wicker baskets can be found at almost any flea market and have so many great uses. I use mine for my overgrown yarn and magazine collection but they can also be a great place to store your winter necessities like hats and gloves.
I’m sure you’ve caught wind of this trend on Pinterest or home design blogs, and I completely fell prey to its cuteness. These vintage suitcases ($15/each) do double the work for tiny apartments. Stacked, they create a darling display or side table as well as sweetly stocking your out of season wardrobe.
ΩΩ Brooklyn Flea | Williamsburg Sunday (Thru Nov. 18), 10 AM–5 PM, East River Waterfront (between North 6 + 7 St.) brooklynflea.com ΩΩ The Garage Saturday & Sunday: 9 AM–5 PM 112 W 25th St (between 6th & 7th Ave.) ΩΩ Hell’s Kitchen Flea Market Saturday & Sunday: 9 AM–5 PM West 39th St. (between 9th & 10th Ave.) hellskitchenfleamarket.com ΩΩ Housing Works Thrift Shop Monday–Friday: 10 AM–7 PM, Saturday: 10 AM–6 PM, Sunday: 12 PM–5 PM 143 West 17th St. 718.838.5050
A vintage wooden cheese box ($10) sits pretty on the bookshelf to house my mail! You can find simple little wood boxes to keep your letters or knick-knacks organized while adding some rustic allure.
Adding some inexpensive vintage books, jars or pitchers to a display adds character to your living space.
ΩΩ Green Village Thrift Store Monday–Thursday: 9:30 AM–6 PM, Friday: 9:30 AM–2 PM, Sunday 10 AM–6 PM 276 Starr Street, Brooklyn NY 718.456.8844 gogreenvillage.com
21
W27
SEPTEMBER 2012
MOVIE REVIEW:
The Oranges by Fernanda DeSouza
Photo courtesey of ATO Pictures
If you thought Gossip Girl’s Leighton Meester was through causing trouble as Blair Waldorf, the Upper East Side’s Queen Bee, think again. After recently breaking up with her fiancé, Nina (Meester), the prodigal daughter of Terry and Cathy Ostroff (Oliver Platt and Allison Janney), returns to suburban
New Jersey after a five-year absence. Her unexpected homecoming reignites old tensions between Nina and the Ostroffs’ best friends’ daughter, Vanessa Walling (Alia Shawkat). This tension is sparked by Nina’s unforeseen relationship with Vanessa’s father, David (Hugh Laurie) As the affair blossoms, the Ostroffs are forced to deal with their 24-year-old daughter dating their best friend, while the Wallings cope with the hardships of a crumbling marriage and a family being torn apart.
In theaters October 5th. Director Julian Farino spins a hilarious, yet heartwarming story about the love shared between two unlikely people and how their love causes those around them to question their own happiness. In truth, once we learn to accept the uncomfortable situation that this young woman and old man are head over heels for one another, we begin to see the rare chords that love strums. The unexpected union causes
Philanthropy: Start by Getting Involved by Daysha Rodriguez
With the start of the new school year, there are always incoming freshman eager to be involved at FIT, and soon-tobe graduates anxiously scavenging for extracurriculars that will add that special touch to their resumes. An impressive way to show future employers hard work and dedication skills is through good, old-fashioned community service. For students with overwhelming schedules, finding the right volunteer opportunity can be difficult. Also, researching organizations can be tedious and time consuming. The SVCS (Student Volunteer Community Services) program helps students in any semester find the perfect volunteering opportunities available in all fields, including fashion. So whether you’re eager to help out children in need or a stressed out designer at fashion week, SVCS can offer you the chance to collaborate with wonderful organizations. During my first semester at FIT, I was fortunate enough to work at the Code Purple Event, which raised money to help children in Africa dying of malaria. The event was held at the Intrepid Sea, Air and Space Museum, a historical institution housed in an aircraft carrier on Pier 86 on West 46th Street. During the event, my duties as a “purple wig girl” were to help the models get dressed, prepare the swag bags and collect generous donations from the audience. I even got to wear a fabulous purple bobbed wig! I learned so much about global awareness and how spreading that awareness can drastically change someone’s life. It was truly
strife between the two families, yet brings them closer as they search deep in their hearts for acceptance. The film takes multiple turns, from an amusing “duel” encounter between Terry and David, to the self-realization of brokenhearted Paige Walling. It’s hard to think an affair could be interpreted in such a comical manner, but Farino nails the truth to the wall with a disaster that needed to happen, leaving us with a holiday season film to remember.
a humbling experience. I was even called back by one of the event coordinators to return this year. It shows they’re appreciative of their volunteers. So how do you sign up? SVCS is located in the Student Life center in room A718. There you can sign up to receive emails about up and coming volunteer opportunities and information about the Volunteer Expo. The event is hosted during the fall and spring semesters to inform potential volunteers about the vast variety of opportunities. Students will also be able to meet the coordinators of the organizations they’re interested in and get a better understanding of what exactly the organization does to help the community. For more information, call the Department of Student Life at 212.217.4142.
The Oranges, starring Hugh Laurie, Catherine Keener, Leighton Meester, Oliver Platt, Allison Janney, Alia Shawkat, Sam Rosen & Adam Brody. Directed by Julian Farino.
MoMA PS1 Warm Up Series by Francesca Beltran
For the past 15 years, MoMA PS1’s Warm Up series has faithfully served as a platform for experimental live music, sound, performance and DJ’s from a variety of genres. The annual summer series, which this year began on July 7th and was held every Saturday in the museum’s courtyard, concluded on September 8th with a sold-out event headlined by Thom Yorke and Nigel Godrich playing an Atoms For Peace live/ DJ set combo. Even though the absence of Atoms For Peace’s bassist, Flea, was quite disappointing for some, Yorke did an impeccable job of delighting the audience with his melodic voice and experimental beats, while debuting a number of songs from the supergroup’s upcoming album. The unexpected live performance was, without a doubt, one of the highlights of the series and the finest part of the day. The music began with a set by New York DJ, Justin Strauss, who did an engaging double performance that succeeded in making the crowd dance. Another high point was provided by Holy Other’s much anticipated New York debut, in which the English producer played some of his romantic/melancholic tunes, including material from his recently released LP, Held, and gave the attendees a much appreciated moment to chill. The event, however, was not what could be called a complete success. Being soaked to death by an “unexpected” storm, for those who weren’t aware of the tornado warning, wouldn’t have been so bad if it hadn’t happened after the torment of
Photography by Francesca Beltran
Maria Minerva’s squeaky sounds and pitiful dance moves—one of the worst second-hand embarrassments on the planet. Thankfully, the storm and Minerva’s distressing performance were not enough to scare the audience away; people were willing to wait in that very pleasant combination of wet and sweat until Yorke’s set. It’s not everyday one can pay 15 bucks to see Radiohead’s deity play live. Before this performance though, it was the Scottish musician, Rustie’s turn to get the audience “wild” with his dropped bass tunes and post-dubstep trance keyboards. When the show was over, the thousands of people that had filled the space wallto-wall left, not before saying goodbye to Wendy, the spiky urban landscape and winning design of MoMA PS1’s 13th annual Young Architects Program that, according to the sign, did a bunch of pretty neat things other than just looking quite cool.
HAUTE CULTURE
FIT
22 BAND PROFILE:
Must-See TV
Rovnik
by Chloe Dewberry
by Georgi Dwiggins
American Horror Story played together, immediately feeling ready to move forward and find themselves a drummer.
Photography by Georgi Dwiggins
That drummer ended up being Rick, who Eric knew from work and “followed home” after regularly seeing him on the same train and stop. As it turned out, Rick went to NYU for jazz and didn’t even blink when Eric brought up the idea of joining a band, responding with “Yeah, I’m open.” This easygoing attitude carried into “jam” sessions. “You don’t audition Rick; he auditions you,” said Eric.
It normally sounds creepy when someone says, “Well, I’ve sort of been following you home for a while…” but sometimes it’s these sort of weird things that lead to forming a band worth remembering. Sometimes it takes a bit of watching and waiting to get things done. The somewhat stalker mentioned is Eric Anderson, who, a year ago, used some searching of himself, a love for music and eventually Craigslist to begin forming NYC band Rovnik. The other components (and in one case somewhat victims of stalking) are Seth Klugman and Rick Martinez.
Whether it was the time Rick kicked through his drum and the sound guy tried to compensate with some confusing beat on the night they were playing to be recorded, getting booked at Café Wha?, which historically hosted the likes of Bob Dylan and Jimi Hendrix… or the time they played a show in Harlem, getting an unexpectedly receptive crowd dancing in smoke from smoke machines and ending the night with a meal at Popeye’s Fried Chicken, Rovnik has experienced a lot together.
The beginnings of the band stem from Seth’s boredom at his office job and perusing Craigslist listings. He stumbled upon a call for musicians to form a band, finding a certain Eric who had been inspired to write and ready to follow a passion. Seth was so inspired by the idea that he responded with samples of his own music with the bass, ready to get something started. The two met and
Seth notes that the band enjoys the variety of different venues they get to play and subsequently the variety of types of people they get to connect with. This variety could stem from their diverse taste in music, with some overlap from Seth and Eric (Red Hot Chili Peppers, The Killers, Elton John), and a good dose of diversity from Rick (Metallica, Primus, Disco-Funk). It is this blend of influence
and ideas that makes them relevant to a widespread audience. The band’s name translates to “equinox” or “circle around the earth” in Czech, Seth’s nationality, and what band doesn’t want to do that in some sense? With a sound that could be likened somewhat to Coldplay or The Killers, but with a more intimate touch and a growing fan base in NYC, Rovnik may be well on their way. All of these guys just enjoy getting together and playing music. They love people enjoying it too and the relationship that it creates. To see the band and hang out after, mark down these dates! ΩΩ Café Wha? Thursday, September 20, 2012 21+ Show Doors: 8:00 PM ΩΩ Rooftop Party in Williamsburg Saturday, September 29, 2012 Doors: 9:00 PM Email for information: band@rovnik.com Check out their music on Spotify or iTunes and on rovnik.com.
Funky All-Around Artist: TALWST by Georgi Dwiggins
TALWST’s unusual moniker is rooted in the artist’s younger years in Trinidad. He was known to his family as “Tall waist,” due to his really long legs. Once, when he was walking in the local market, a group of older men started calling out, “Tallwaist, tall waist!”—recognizing him from his family’s descriptions. He now uses a shortened version of the nickname as a way to remember his past and connect it with his future. TALWST’s whole approach as an artist is totally futuristic. The name of his most recent album is “Alien Tentacle Sex,” a name thrown around as a joke in the studio that ultimately stuck. “I eventually felt like it worked, because I wanted it to feel like something totally new and ahead of the time, something that no one would’ve experienced, so it kind of worked
in a weird way,” he explained. The whole idea of extraterrestrial life and the idea of engaging with whatever that means is a theme of both his artwork and music. He now lives in Edmonton, in Alberta, Canada—where he spent most of his life and the place he considers to be where he really grew up in—taking trips to Trinidad between the years. Musically, he draws inspiration from an eclectic array of places. Lyrically, he believes artists like Prince and Anthony Kiedis of the Red Hot Chili Peppers have something to say in the way that they capture moments of everyday life, as he tries to do with his music. He admires the insane mix of percussion mastered by Radiohead, with a special fondness for their album In Rainbows. The xx is a band that he considers to be “the perfect marriage of indie and electronic.” He believes that this is where urban music should be going: beats with a message behind them. So what exactly are the messages he wants to tell? “You know how you’ll be on the subway and see all different races of people and examples of stereotypes? I just want to show those subtle nuances of life. I want my songs to feel like paintings,”
666 Park Avenue Sex, suicide and mystery collide in this new supernatural drama set to air on ABC starting September 30th. A young couple move into The Drake, an out of this world apartment building in Manhattan’s Upper East Side, where the stakes are higher than the rent. The show combines elements of Desperate Housewives and Lost and the couple soon discovers the building they’re living in is home to an evil, much worse than the snooty Park Avenue residents. It turns out the residents have all made deals with the devil to have their wildest desires fulfilled. Murder, sexual fetishes, and obsession can only add up to one thing: good TV.
The New Normal
TUNING IN:
There’s no denying the connection shared by different types of art. Art of any kind is a means of expression and a way to show people how to look at the world. Trinidad born artist, TALWST (pronounced “tall waist”), whose exhibition “Death of Swag,” recently closed at Fuse Gallery, is sharing this point of view through the multiple media of music and painting (and collage, drawing, photography, etc.).
If the first season of FX’s surprise hit shockfest left you trembling in your seat wanting more, season two is bound to make you feel nauseous in the best way possible. The show returns on Wednesday October 17th, but the creators have switched things up a bit for this round of horrific mayhem. This season takes viewers to an asylum run by nuns where aliens, Nazi doctors and a serial killer by the name of Bloody Face have all checked in. If the prospect of a serial killer who dresses to the nines in white opera gloves and a black nightgown doesn’t sound entertaining, perhaps the idea of seeing Maroon 5 frontman, Adam Levine, and indie it girl, Chloe Sevigny (who plays a nymphomaniac), co-star as psychotic patients will get you excited for round two of the addictive bloodfest.
said TALWST. He strives to give an international perspective and showcase things that aren’t always obvious. His physical art is just another way for him to do that. He feels something forced him to pick up a paintbrush, and he hasn’t stopped creating art since. “I have more layers, more layers to explain my ideas better,” he said. These are definitely some “layers” worth taking a look at and listening to. Check out talwst.com to get a view of his world.
Photography byFernanda DeSouza
Ryan Murphy has done it again. The creator of Glee and American Horror Story is taking another stab at comedy with his signature unconventional style. The show centers around a young gay couple in LA (Justin Bartha from The Hangover and Andrew Rannells from The Book of Mormon) who hire a young mother fresh from the Midwest to be their surrogate. Things get a bit sticky when the young girl’s conservative, bigoted mother (Ellen Barkin) enters the picture. The show mixes the outrageous humor of Glee with the quirky familycentered heart of Modern Family, but that’s not to say it doesn’t come without controversy. Conservative group One Million Moms have protested against the show while a Mormon church-owned NBC affiliate in Utah refuses to air the sitcom. Watch what all the hype is about Tuesday nights on NBC.
The Mindy Project The Office’s Mindy Kaling keeps up the hard work outside of the office and writes, executive produces, and stars in Fox’s The Mindy Project. For fans of Kaling’s popular Twitter profile, the laughs are frequent in this modern take on the single girl in the city stereotype. Kaling stars as a hard-working doctor trying to balance her work and social life while looking for love and the nearest open bar. Mindy Kaling gives Zooey Deschanel a run for her money as TV’s new quirky female dork and showcases her pop culture focused humor in her first role as a leading lady. For viewers who were enamored with HBO’s GIRLS and can’t get enough of The Office humor, check out The Mindy Project which premieres on Fox on September 25.
W27
23
SEPTEMBER 2012
Outside Your Borough:
Coney Island by Sarah Dill Screams, freaks, treats, memories and curiosity only make up half of the magic at Coney Island. The one and only Coney lives on through the summer and fall months with an action packed calendar of events sure to thrill and chill families, tourists and New York natives alike. The Mermaid Parade, Coney Island Film Festival, Luna Park amusement rides, boardwalk bars and shops and the famous hot dog eating contest are only a few of the spectacles that have been going on through the summer months and will continue over the next few weeks.
a famous Nathan’s hotdog, be sure to leave room for dessert: a mouth-watering Coney’s Cones ice cream or a finger lickin’ funnel cake at the Funnel Cake Factory is best enjoyed while sitting on the beach. Coney Island operates its parks and events mainly from April to October including yoga on the shore, karaoke on Firework Fridays, flicks on the beach, musical entertainment and circus sideshows galore. But even through the colder season, the fun never stops. Nicole Purmal, marketing manager at Coney Island, was excited to finish her first summer working at the park and was eager for what lies ahead. “We haven’t, unfortunately, released any of our plans for the next year yet but I can tell you right now it’s going to include totally new editions, amazing updates and creating a greater consistency across the park, which is going to be spectacular.” From working at Time Out New York to now becoming involved in the history and fun of Coney Island, Purmal added that this was a big year. “This has been a big birthday season for Coney Island with the Scream Zone’s new expansion, the 85th birthday of the Cyclone roller coaster and the introduction of Nights of Horror in October.”
Dating back to 1829, when the Coney Island House was opened, Coney Island has been a place for seaside fun and amusement. Nathan’s Famous has been tucking hot dogs into buns since 1916, and in the 20s, Coney Island expanded with the construction of the Riegelmann Boardwalk. During that same time, the iconic 150-foot Wonder Wheel and Cyclone roller coaster began operation. Although many of its historic staples like the Cyclone rollercoaster, Deno’s Wonder Wheel and Nathan’s hot dogs are still freak favorites today, new attractions and shops have made Coney Island a unique and exciting destination as “America’s Playground.” Today, visitors should make sure to stop by the three main parks of Coney Island: Luna Park, Coney Island Cyclone roller coaster and the Scream Zone Coney Island. In Luna Park, you’ll find rides ranging from the twirling tea cups to a plunging Wild River log flume ride for more adventurous island goers. Other rides in Coney Island’s Scream Zone are not for the faint of heart (or those who just visited Nathan’s!). A boardwalk flight gives passengers the chance to soar 100 feet above the Atlantic Ocean and the Soarin’ Eagle launches passengers sky high through its windy and curvy tracks as they lay flat.
The real history of Coney Island, however, lies in the hearts and memories of families, friends and visitors alike who have enjoyed the Island for the past 85 years. “It’s challenging to find families that have been here for so long and then not say, ‘Oh, I remember going on the Cyclone for the first time with my parents.’ It’s always just beautiful to hear those stories and at the same time it’s still here,” added Purmal. Hop on the D, F, N or Q train to create your own memorable experience at Coney Island.
Coney Island may be well known for its amusement park rides and sideshows, but this year the Island has something for everyone. Enjoy an original Coney Island lager by the boardwalk and peruse shops like the Brooklyn Beach Shop, Nathan’s Coney Island Gift Shop and Lola Star Souvenir boutique. After enjoying
To stay updated on park promotions and upcoming events, and for a full list of prices, visit lunaparknyc.com and coneyislandfunguide.com
Fernanda & Sarah enjoyed their day in Coney Island. Photography by Fernanda DeSouza
HAUTE CULTURE
FIT
24
Month in Review by Colleen Dengel and Suzanne Dengel
The DREAM Act
The Gun Control Controversy The theater shooting on July 20th in Aurora, Colorado came as a shock to the world. This was then followed by the Sikh temple shooting that took place on August 5th in Oak Creek, Wisconsin and three weeks later, a gunman triggered a shootout near the Empire State Building, killing a co-worker. Such occurrences drag the ongoing controversy over stricter gun control and the Second Amendment back into the spotlight.
Image courtesy of popcultureactivist.blogspot.com
The DREAM Act is a highly debated issue that if approved, will allow individuals who originally entered the United States illegally with their parents to eventually obtain permanent legal status once they attend college or join the military. These individuals, who are currently considered illegal immigrants, must meet certain criteria, which include having entered the United States before the age of 16, having lived in the United States for at least five years, having graduated from a U.S. High School, having achieved a GED, and attending or having been accepted to a U.S. college. Proponents of this act have expressed their concerns of being deported to a country that they might have been born in, but have never known, and therefore cannot call home. Supporters also argue that practically every legal citizen in the United States of America, unless they are of Native American descent, was an ancestor of an immigrant. However, the DREAM Act could also backfire and encourage more immigrants to enter the U.S. illegally in hopes of attaining legal citizenship. Others have raised concerns that this would result in limited access to higher education and military careers for legal citizens, claiming that undocumented people would then take over the spots of legal U.S. citizens in universities and the military. Some have gone as far as to speculate that this is an attempt of the U.S. military to increase recruitment intakes.
Childhood Arrivals on June 15th, 2012. Although it will not grant citizenship to illegal immigrants, the DACA will protect immigrants who fit the criteria from deportation and will begin issuing work authorization papers for those who fit the criteria of the DREAM Act. After paying a $465 process fee, eligible candidates will go through a process of paperwork for the background check including their date of arrival and proof of school attendance, among other things. After being approved by the United States Citizenship and Immigration Services, the following step will be to undergo a biometrics test in which a date and time will be assigned to each individual case (the immigrants will have received their distinct case number). The biometrics include fingerprints to check on any potential criminal records. In an op-ed piece for Time.com’s Ideas blog, President Barack Obama stated that, “this is the right thing to do for our economy—something CEOs throughout the country agree with—and it is the right thing to do for our national security. Above all, it is the right thing to do, period.”
Supporters of gun possession assert that gun ownership should be allowed and used as a form of personal or property protection. However, individuals like James Holmes, the Aurora theater shooter, and Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold, the 1999 Columbine High School shooters, abused such rights. Today, factors that stand in the way of individuals owning a gun include a previous felony conviction, a protective order or a documented mental health condition. Under the law, a person with an undocumented mental condition can still be eligible for gun ownership.
control laws were to be implemented, minors, felons and the mentally disabled would have restrictions to gun access. However, even with stricter gun control, the question is how to control the type of individuals allowed to own guns. The biggest argument against stricter gun control stems from the Supreme Court’s interpretation of the Second Amendment that states, “a well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.” The Court ruled that the Bill of Rights includes the right to personal ownership of a gun. According to a General Social Survey, a research project run by the University of Chicago over the past four decades, 32% of American households reported to owning guns. A survey conducted in 2005 by Gallup.com, a data driven news-based website, states that 56% of Americans are in favor of allowing the use of guns, as opposed to the 44% who are in favor of stricter gun control.
According to The Washington Post, The Harvard Injury Control Research Center found evidence that proves that more guns mean more murders, suggesting that the control of gun usage could curb the number of murders. If stricter gun
Additional reporting by Fernanda DeSouza.
James Eagan Holmes, Aurora, CO
Although the DREAM Act has not officially passed in Congress, President Obama initiated the Deferred Action For
Sikh outside temple shooting in Oak Creek, WI
Jeffrey Johnson, NYC shooter
fit speaks Why I Hate People Who Ostracize Fashion by Arushi Khosla
You’re undoubtedly all too familiar with it: the disapproving looks from relatives when told what you’re studying at school, the bemused expressions on faces of acquaintances and the derogatory talk about how you’re striving to work in an industry superficial by nature. As fashion students and enthusiasts, we’ve heard it before and we’ll hear it again. And I don’t want to shy away from saying that I whole heartedly detest this tired notion. Two years back, fueled by a late night coffee binge, I penned an angry rant on my blog about journalist, Tanya Gold’s Guardian article titled “Why I Hate Fashion,” in which she outlines her career and details her experience as mercilessly plagued by the ridiculously high expectations of the fashion industry She effectively ostracizes the industry as a whole, waxing (semi) eloquently about the supposed futility of fashion media and the uninspiring work of designers moonlighting as artists. It made me incredibly angry then, just as it does today. It’s just one of those things—people will continue to complain about fashion without really understanding the intricacies of the design process or the business machine that churns behind-the-scenes, keeping this multi-billion dollar industry afloat. Put most famously and succinctly in the opening credits of The September Issue by Anna Wintour, “Just because you’d like to put on a beautiful Carolina Herrera dress or a pair of J. Brand jeans instead of something basic from Kmart doesn’t make you a dumb person.” What most angers me is that such people believe that what a cast member of Twilight, The Hunger Games, or anything involving a member of the Kardashian clan wore on the red carpet or what a Victoria’ Secret model stocks in her closet is the crux of fashion. Fashion is an art form, though admittedly, there is a definite shallow, superficial side. But as Robin Givhan, the Pulitzer Prize winning fashion writer once said, and I quote “Fashion is not innately superficial, the way it is portrayed is.” And why is all this vehement criticism always aimed solely at fashion? Doesn’t Apple lure you into buying their newest product? LG wants you to covet their LCD TVs, Grey Goose is pushing you to snag some “luxury” cocktail, Nicki Minaj or Katy Perry invite you to purchase their new singles. Is it about it being wasteful? I fail to understand how an industry that provides countless jobs and gives people joy is more wasteful than any other creative outlet. After all, nobody “goes off” on people who spend excessively on art or even season tickets to a sporting event or the theatre!
And if you’re going to argue that fashion promotes an unhealthy body image, think twice. That notion is perpetuated enough by Hollywood with no help from the industry. I will assure you that the average teenage girl cares more about looking like Megan Fox than Daria Werbowy. I will be the first to admit that magazines (and runways) could do well to include more diversity, but suggesting that fashion is the sole reason for the destruction of one’s self esteem is just plain wrong. If you choose to be so deeply affected by images of Coco Rocha in sequined Chanel hot pants prancing around in an editorial, then perhaps you need to take a second look at yourself and your priorities and perceptions before spewing venom about the evils of fashion. It’s sort of comical and quite sad that people continue to try hard to revive and reiterate the tired old myth that fashion is for the frivolous, stupid and intellectually devoid. I have friends who major in Physics and still love Haider Ackerman. As music journalist and photography critic, Vince Aletti once said, “Fashion is, perhaps by necessity, a world of its own—one that only rarely overlaps with anything resembling real life. This fantasy and exoticism is part of its appeal, of course.” I say go read pieces by Robin Givhan, Suzy Menkes, Cathy Horyn, or even Tavi Gevinson. Watch a live Gareth Pugh or Alexander McQueen show. Read Pigeons and Peacocks, i-D, Numero and Lula. View the work done by Richard Avedon, admire how he introduced movement into still life and created magic with couture and a camera. Read about, or alternatively, watch Coco Avant Chanel to see Coco Chanel’s feminist quest to break into an otherwise male-dominated society. Read about the Mulleavy sisters’ completely unglamorous background. I could go on. If, after doing all this, you still believe that fashion is for the brainless, then maybe you’re living proof of that. No one who spent a boatload on a Botticelli or a Monet would be characterized as stupid, but is someone who does the same to own a Rick Owens or Saint Laurent piece undeniably so? If I spend the same amount on shoes, then am I frivolous and materialistic? This idea that everyone interested in fashion is doing the designers’ bidding is exactly the kind of reverse snobbery that eludes me. It is the height of irony that women who are valued for their looks are encouraged to make themselves beautiful and ornamental and are then regarded as shallow and vain for doing so. And it’s a subtle but definite form of sexism to take one of the few forms of expression wherein women have more freedom, and treat it as a form of expression that’s inherently superficial and trivial. Like it or not, fashion and style are primarily a woman’s art form. So throw on those wildly printed skirts and slip on those nude oxfords you love. We work hard every day—juggling internships, school, work and trying to maintain some semblance of a social life, because we inherently love what we do. Don’t let anyone take that away from you.
Olympics, Doritos, & Self-Realization by Fernanda DeSouza It is no surprise that at age 16, Gabby Douglas captured her nation’s heart after winning the gold medal in the women’s gymnastics event during the 2012 Olympic Games. We sat there, biting our nails and on the edge of our seats, hoping her hand wouldn’t slip off the bar. Must I even dive into (pun intended) the men’s swimming events? If my eyes weren’t glued to Ryan Lochte’s gorgeous body, it was deer-in-the-headlights status on the television set, screaming, “GO! GO! GO!” It got to a point where I was unable to sit through some races because I was too excited and nervous to watch. The Olympics lasted days: days in which I spent countless hours plopped on my couch watching intently. The only breaks I gave myself were to use the restroom or fetch a snack in the pantry to bring back to the cozy, butt-warmed spot on the sofa only to munch away, here and there. During a phenomenal race against time on the men’s canoeing event, I stopped to look down at the junk I was shoving into my mouth: Doritos. I am not one to constantly eat junk food but you know the old saying: you eat when you’re bored. The Olympics would never be labeled “boring” in my mind, but summer was winding down, I was anxious to return to Manhattan and ready to bury myself in dull marketing textbooks all over again. I ate because I was restless. I watched young and old men and women struggle and sweat to achieve their ultimate goal of attaining a spot on the stand, medal in hand. But the only golden thing in my hand at that point was my Dorito. And I wasn’t shedding tears of joy. They were tears of “what are you doing to yourself?” My sister, only 12 and already taller than me, is on the path to competing in the 2016 Olympics as a swimmer. My mother had seen a program notice at my high school and decided to drag my then eight-year-old sister to two-hour swim practices everyday, not to mention the 7am swim meets on the weekends. She wasn’t thrilled when she first began, constantly complaining of an aching neck, sore arms, and lack of sleep. However, she soon began to see the hard work pay off as medal after medal and ribbon after ribbon began to adorn her bedroom walls. As a child, my parents never signed me up to play any sports. But that certainly isn’t to say I wasn’t athletic. I raised eyebrows when I decided at age 13 to play ice hockey for my middle school in Virginia. My parents reluctantly signed the paperwork and I became the one and only girl to ever grace the team. I picked up track and field as I entered high school, not because I loved to run but because I hated to run (but I did love the cute hoodie we’d receive during the season). I forced myself to overcome that hurdle, but by tenth grade, the realization that I was no Usain Bolt struck and I
dropped my spiked running shoes to pick up a tennis racket. Tennis has stuck since. When I wasn’t watching London 2012, I was out on the courts sweating buckets. My game improved drastically and I was the owner of a new, ridiculous racer-back bra tan line on my back. I didn’t feel too bad about eating a Dorito or two. But I always questioned my parents for not putting me in sports at a young age. At 16, I would be turning pro on the tennis circuit, traveling the world, and having an income large enough to never worry about tuition. Instead, at 16, I had only just learned to swing a forehand properly. An incredible admiration pours from people all over the world for the Olympic athletes and their dedication and performance at this year’s games. I had every reason to feel fat because my two-hour tennis sessions were nothing compared to the years they have spent training. Nonetheless, it’s their commitment that makes me want to play harder and improve my game. For the end of my long and ennui-filled summer, it was motivation enough to push myself on those courts to the point of asthma-like symptoms, to come home not to a gold medal, but my own reward: that Dorito. I would like to invite Gabby Douglas to race up and down our subway stairs, with the added challenge of pushing past the throngs of tourists. I’d win a gold medal for that no doubt.
An Inevitable Break up Letter by Richard Gilmartin
Some people just stick to you like leeches. You think to yourself, “Oh, I could never love this person; better just get it out of my system, though.” What started out as so good is terrible now. This game of taking turns, playing cat and mouse? It’s old, and I’m exhausted. The funny thing is, I shook you off once. Not by choice. I was ready to move on, and when you found that out, it terrified you. But now that I’m back in the city, prospects for my future don’t look so bright. There are bigger and better things for you, you think to yourself. I’m okay with just being friends. But when I say I want to be just friends, what I really mean is that I’ve already accepted that we just need to move on—and you need to accept that, too. I’m not mad, but it doesn’t necessarily mean I want to talk to you. We’re playing games. I’m playing games with you; you’re playing games with me. It’s strange and confusing and I don’t understand why I can’t just be honest with you. I don’t feel comfortable around you, I don’t feel like you’re on my side. I know this, and I accept you for who you are. I could be so good for you, just be good to me.
FIT SPEAKS
26
FIT
W27
Fernanda DeSouza | AMC | Bag: Ecoté Nothing special about my bag, except the multiple pockets and that I finally shied away from the typical New York black or grey. I dished on this yellowy pop of color instead!
27
Caroline Nelson | AMC | Bag: Everlane I woke up at 6 AM to order this backpack from the online-only basics store, Everlane. It has a convenient laptop compartment and waterproof interior, perfect for those rainy fall days.
SEPTEMBER 2012
Christina Garcia | Graphic Design | Bag: Kipling You can always count on a Kipling to last you forever. It keeps my laptop safe while looking good with any outfit.
STYLE ON 27 PHOTOGRAPHY by FERNANDA DESOUZA
Sarah Dill | AMC | Bag: Outofprintclothing.com Carrying textbooks can be such a drag, but my A Clockwork Orange tote adds just enough quirkiness and mystery to my outfit that even a gang of “droogs” can’t resist.
Rich Gilmartin | AMC | Bag: Under Armour Stylish or not, this backpack is engineered to resist just about any amount of stress. I can fit everything I need in it without killing my back . Its black color also matches everything I wear.
W27’s diverse staff keeps practical and dashing with all forms of back-to-school bags. From their structured totes to canvas rucksacks, they fearlessly pop color and shape in anticipation of fashion’s best season. The style as well as the dedicated team reflect the age old adage, form follows function.
Dianna Mazzone | AMC | Bag: Zara The cross body strap and zippers make it functional while the hardware makes it easy to transition from day to night. If there were a bag equivalent to the little black dress, this would be it!
Samantha Vance | AMC | Bag: Aldo I love this forest green hue for fall and the long rectangle shape allows me to stuff it without the seams visibly bulging.
Freddy Rodriguez | FMM | Bag: Aldo My school bag is a classic leather messenger that doesn’t fall out of trend and helps keep my life organized in one bag.