294 SEPTEMBER 2022 by Walking New Zealand Ltd

RECREATION WALKING and CYCLING TRAILS

New Zealand Walk:

Exploring Somes Island My Favourite Walk:

SEPTEMBER 2022 ISSUE NO 294

Australian Walks:

Norfolk island o

360 of wonder

Tramping Te Apiti - the narrow passage Great Walk:

Heaphy Track: a walk of contrasts

Need2Know:

Mahana Lodge where a warm welcome awaits

NZ $9.50 inc GST

New Zealand Walks:

Bay of Islands Walking Weekend www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

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CONTENTS

Issue 294 -SEPTEMBER 2022

2 Heatrub 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: My Favourite Walk: Exploring Somes Island 11 Need2Know: May walking bring us together 12 New Zealand Walk: Lake Alta Track - a climb to a glacial lake 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 Event: Waiheke Walking Festival with walks for everyone 20 Great Walk: Heaphy Track a walk of contrasts 22 My Favourite Walk: Hiking the Heaphy Track in reverse 24 Need2Know: Mahana Lodge -where a warm welcome awaits 26 Australian Walks: Norfolk Island 360 degrees of wonder 28 Australian Walks: Norfolk Island for all year round walking and hiking 30 Great Walks: Which Great Walk is right for you? 34 New Zealand Walks: Waka, Wars, Wines and Walks 38 My Favourite Walk: Tramping Te Apiti - the narrow passage 41 Index of previous 15 issues 42 Event: Bay of Islands Walking Weekend 44 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 47 Coming Events: Rest of World 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 New Zealand Wilderness Guides Cover photo: A family enjoying a coastal farm walk in Winter.

WALKING New Zealand Published Monthly

PUBLISHER/EDITOR: Frank Goldingham: Phone 06-358-6863, 027-274-0726 CONTRIBUTORS: Yvonne van Eerden, Juliet Gibbons, Ruth Reidy, Phillip Donnell, Barbz Lowthe,r and Daniel Haddock ADVERTISING MANAGER: Frank Goldingham 0800 walking (925-546) 027-274-0726 Email: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz COMING EVENTS ADVERTISING: Frank Goldingham 0800-walking (925-546) Email walkingnz@xtra.co.nz SUBSCRIPTIONS: Phone 0800-925-546 SUBSCRIPTION RATES: New Zealand Residents; (from 1 August 2022) 12 issues $95.00 posted, 24 issues $179.00 posted, 6 issues $57.00 posted DIGITAL $29.00, 12 issues Australia: 12 issues: $135.00 Rest of World: $155.00 NEWSAGENT DISTRIBUTION: Are Direct NZ Limited WALKING NEW ZEALAND LTD, P O Box 1922, Palmerston North Telephone 06-358-6863 - Fax 06-358-6864 E-Mail: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz

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22 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Bicycle trails proposals on DOC land reviewed Otago CMS partial review approval expands possibilities

for bicycle trails The New Zealand Conservation Authority has approved a partial review of the Otago Conservation Management Strategy, meaning DOC can now consider more locations on public conservation land for bicycle trail proposals. Conservation Management Strategies (CMS) are approved by the New Zealand Conservation Authority (NZCA) under the Conservation Act and provide direction for the management of public conservation land, waters, and species for which the Department of Conservation (DOC) has responsibility. The Otago CMS was approved in 2016, listing where bicycle trails were allowed on public conservation land (PCL) in the region. This was mostly a list of existing trails. By 2019 DOC was receiving multiple new proposals to construct cycleways and bicycle tracks on PCL not listed in the Otago CMS, meaning the proposals could not be formally considered. “The partial review was undertaken because the Otago CMS did not reflect the increased public interest in expanding mountain biking or the opportunities for this activity,” says DOC Statutory Manager, John Roberts. “Development of the draft was undertaken in consultation with Ngāi Tahu and the Otago Conservation Board. Public consultation attracted close to 1,750 submissions in December 2020. Hearings were held in April 2021, with a revised draft going the NZCA in October 2021.” As the community’s voice in conservation management for the Otago region, the Otago Conservation Board plays a key role in the development and implementation of the Otago CMS. “The outcome of the partial review approval is the opening up of an extra 112 parcels of public conservation land able to be considered for bicycle track proposals, along with most marginal strips and DOC administered recreation reserves in Otago,” says Tara Druce of the Otago Conservation Board. “NZCA’s approval of the Otago CMS partial review is fantastic news, as it offers the potential for people to have new bicycling experiences in scenic settings that are already naturally suited to this activity,” says Tara Druce.

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Community collaboration to restore local treasure

A long-term vision to restore Carnival Park Scenic Reserve in Pahiatua to its previous glory kicked off with a community open day on 16 June. Carnival Park was opened as a botanic garden in 1915 with proceeds from a local carnival. Explore Pahiatua Incorporated (EPI) member, Karolyn Donald, says the area was originally part of Te Tapere Nui O Whatonga (also known as 40-mile bush), but is now one of the few remnants of the once mighty forest. “Some of the trees were here before European settlement and survived a devastating fire that ripped through the area in 1898. This makes the reserve unique and culturally significant.” Karolyn has strong connections to the reserve. She grew up in Pahiatua and was the custodian of the neighbouring campground for 15 years. However, Karolyn says she is just one in a long line of locals who have managed and cared for Carnival Park. “I’d especially like to acknowledge Stanley Wolland who has been involved with all things Carnival Park since 1975, and Judith Gleeson who first joined a planting at the reserve as a newly graduated teacher in the late 1960s and has been involved ever since. It’s a huge privilege to follow those who have gone before me.” Tararua District Council administers the campground, and the Department of Conservation (DOC) administers the reserve. EPI has set up an agreement with the DOC to enable community restoration of the site. The open day formally celebrated the establishment of this agreement and seeked community feedback and involvement in the next steps. DOC Community Ranger, Wendy Gray, says she’s excited about helping restore the reserve to its former glory and reintroducing endemic species. “Restoring Carnival Park is a huge task and will take a lot of hard work. Full restoration won’t happen in my lifetime, but you’ve got to start somewhere” says Karolyn.. “Our community members have a great sense of ownership of this treasure. Carnival Park has been a large part of the lives of Pahiatua residents for centuries, and we look forward to securing it for our future generations as well.” www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walk talk

Barossa by Ebike

Bikeabout has released Experience the Barossa by e-bike tours. Clients can spend a day taking in some of the best the Barossa has to offer with visits to Yalumba, Barossa Valley Chocolate Company, Artisans of Barossa, and the Barossa Valley Cheese Company. This guided tour is suitable for beginners and travels on the Barossa Trail and quiet roads. bikeabout.com.au/book-a-tour/

Conservation Week/Te Wiki Tiaki Ao Tūroa

The Department of Conservation announces that Conservation Week 2022 will be held 5-11 September with a focus on how we can take action for nature.

Harbour Bridge Westhaven Park

Auckland City Council wants to know what you think about its proposal to upgrade Harbour Bridge Park in Westhaven. Its planning to transform this popular waterfront destination, west of the harbour bridge, over the next few years to make it a place where more people can enjoy the views across the Waitematā Harbour and spend time with friends and whānau, as well as providing a key walking and cycling connection between Herne Bay and the city centre, connecting through the Westhaven Promenade. The innovative design will make the most of the location by moving part of Curran Street away from the water’s edge, creating a spacious new waterfront promenade and park. This will make room for new seating, picnic and fishing spots, green space, lighting and improved stormwater treatment through rain gardens. The number of car parks will remain the same. Consultation closes at the end of August. www. ekepanuku.co.nz/westhaven/harbour-bridge-park

Access to Waipara Vineyard Trail protected for the future

The Waipara Vineyard Trail — Mountford Estate walkway was officially gazetted last week. This provides enduring access over part of the popular Waipara Vineyard Trail that winds through vineyards in the stunning rolling hills around Waipara. The opportunity to legalise this section of the trail arose through an Overseas Investment Office decision the Commission advised on when the vineyard was sold to a Japanese investor in 2017. The Hurunui District Council, which developed the Waipara Vineyard Trail, has become the legal controlling authority for the Walkway. It is managed and maintained by Hurunui Trails Trust. The short, easy and well-formed track offers walkers and bikers good views of vineyards and beyond to the Waipara Valley. Above: Waipara Vineyard Trail Photo by Port Hill Walkers

Your favourite walk could win you a free subscription

We are looking for readers’ favourite New Zealand walks. Many of us go out regularly walking on a route which we class as our favourite, for a number of reasons. Perhaps because for it’s scenery, it’s safe, it’s challenging, it’s flat, it’s hilly, it’s varied, or for whatever reason. We would like you to tell us in your own words what is you favourite walk and why. Email us a story from say 250 up to 1200 words including a photo or photos. We will now give you a FREE subscription (six months or more, depending on the article), or extension to Walking New Zealand magazine for walks published. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

You can also post an article to Walking New Zealand, Freepost 78863, P O Box 1922, Palmerston North, or fax 06-358-6864. If sending a photo by email please make sure photos are in high resolution.

Our email address is: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz. Please put “My Favourite Walk” in the subject line and include your name and postal address.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

My Favourite Walk

Above: Matiu/Somes Island in Wellington Harbour taken from the ferry. . Below: A Somes island skink.

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My Favourite Favourite Walk Walk My

Exploring Somes Island Walking New Zealand magazine is available at all

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

My Favourite Walk

Exploring Somes Island

e were lucky to have a perfect Spring day to explore Somes island in Wellington Harbour. Leaving Queens Wharf, a ferry stops at the island, and continues to Days Bay. We stayed on the boat for an extra

ride, and landed on the return journey, because numbers are limited to 15 landing at any one time. This allows the resident ranger to supervise bag checks, so no pests are brought on to the island, which is a predator free scenic reserve.

Matiu/Somes is a tiny island of only 25ha but with a big history. Originally named Matiu by Kupe, in honour of a daughter, it was inhabBy Barbz Lowther i t e d b y g r o u p s of Taranaki hapu and iwi in the 1820’s and 30’s. In 1839 it was renamed Somes, after the deputy governor at the time, and the crown assumed management. In 1866 the lighthouse was built here - the first harbour light in the country. It was replaced in 1900 and later automated. In the 1860’s and 70’s, steamers took tourists for picnics to the island, but this ended when the ship ‘England’ arrived with smallpox. A quarantine facility was built, and a monument stands on the island to those who died while confined there. Above left: Gun emplacements on the summit. Above right: A nesting gull. Below left: Views from the track towards the lighthouse.

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My Favourite Walk

From 1870’s to 1920’s Somes was used for human quarantine, isolating those with Smallpox, Typhoid, Scarl e t f e ve r , a n d in 1919 the Flu. For the next 15 years these buildings were occupied by penguins and grey ducks. It also served as an animal quarantine station for 100 years from the

Above left: A little New Zealand robin. Above right: The coast track. Below left: Arriving at Somes Island.

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1880’s. Livestock from all over the world were kept there, until given a clean bill of health. This was closed in 1995. Somes Island also played a large role in defence and security strategies for both world wars. It was also a camp for enemy internees, who were occupied with building, gardening and fishing. In WW11 a de-gaussing station was built on the eastern shore, and operated by Wrens. This de-magnetised ships, to protect allied shipping from magnetic mines. In 1942-3 five anti aircraft gun emplacements were built on the summit, but were never

used. In 1995 DOC. took over management of the island, and in 1997 the island was assigned the official bilingual name of Matiu/Somes in acknowledgement of its Maori/European history. In 2009 a treaty claim was settled, giving joint Iwi/Crown partnership in managing the island. It is now a predator free scientific reserve, open to the public. There are well marked and maintained tracks right around the island to the lighthouse. On the warmer north facing track, we saw several skinks and a gecko. If you’re lucky you may see a tuatara.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Exploring Somes Island

My Favourite Walk

Scattered along the trails were hinged posts, marked ‘Weta Motel’. When opened they exposed huge wetas (behind Perspex). We saw loads of gulls nesting on rocks and in scrub on the cliffs. Robins hopped along beside us, and tuis chatted in the trees. Lots of little penguins nest and raise their young along the rocky coastline. Trails also led across the top to the trig station and gun emplacements. The views were spectacular giving 360 degree views of the harbour, with city buildings in the background, so close, yet so far away. It was so quiet and tranquil on the island, with the only sound being bird cries and the sea. If you’ve never been to Matiu/Somes Island, put it on you bucket list. It’s a delightful place to explore, for any age, and only a stone’s throw from Wellington.

Fact file

Matiu / Somes Island is the largest of three islands in the northern half of Wellington Harbour.The island is 24.9 hectares (62 acres), and lies 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) south of the suburb of Petone and the mouth of the Hutt River, and about 5 kilometres (3 mi) northwest of the much smaller Mākaro / Ward Island. How to get there: You can get to Matiu/Somes Island on the scheduled ferry service which runs between Queens Wharf in Wellington and Days Bay seven days a week, and from Seatoun on Saturday and Sundays. An electric ferry was introdced earlier this year. Website: https://eastbywest.co.nz/timetables-and-fares.

Above: The trig on the summit. Below left: The remains of De-gaussing station. Below right: Gulls on a rock.

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International Marching League

May walking bring us together

f you love to go a wandering around the world, the International Marching League was formed with you in mind. The IML was founded in 1987 as an international nonprofit organization to promote good health and encourage friendship between people all over the world. Their slogan is “Nos jungat ambulare” or “May walking bring us together.” Walkers participate in the 14 sanctioned events, getting stamps in their International Walker passbooks and earning medals and designations as International Master Walker and European Walker. IML events are not races, but neither are they cakewalks. Each event is held over two or more days, with the walkers required to complete 20 kilometers or more each day to earn the event credit and award. The granddaddy of these events is the Nijmegen Vierdaagse (4-day) Walk in the Netherlands. This was one of the charter members of the IML. At Nijmegen, the regulation distance for men under 50 is 50km a day, and for women under 50 it is 40km per day - more than a marathon distance for the men. It attracts over 35,000 participants each year. The IML works with local event committees to judge whether an event meets the standards for admission as a yearly IML event. Each country is allowed one IML event per year, In the USA there is one on each coast - one at San Antonio and one at Arlington. The one in New Zealand is held in March each year in Rotorua. This year the event was postponed until Novemebr 5 and 6 due to Covid restrictions. Next year it will be held on March 18 and 19 2023. The walks are not competitive - everybody is a winner and can earn the certificate and medal by completing the distance. Each event has its own entry fee, www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

but prices are modest compared to many racing events. As a result, many groups form teams to come and participate. At Nijmegen there are many military units which march together in full gear and backpacks, a true test of endurance. The start/finish areas provide camaraderie of meeting other international walkers, food for sale, entertainment, and a place to rest and repair the blisters. The International Walker passbooks are available at the events for a modest price - $3 - $4 US equivalent. The walker buys an International Walker Passport at his/her first IML member walk. On completion of the walk, a special stamp for that particular walk is placed in the passbook. After obtaining stamps from three different IML events - each in a different country - the walker may purchase the International Walker Medal. As the walker completes groups of three events they earn the bronze, silver, and gold levels. After completing the second set of three different walks, the walker may purchase the number two in bronze,

after the third series the number 3 in bronze. In the fourth through seventh series the medal and numbers are in silver, and after the seventh series in gold, after the tenth series in gold with laurel leaves, and after 25 series the blue with gold medal may be obtained. That’s 75 IML events! After each IML walk in one of the affiliated countries, the walker may purchase a bar on which the name of the country is inscribed. This bar can be attached to the medal ribbon. Once a walker has earned an IML stamp in each of the founding m e m b e r’ s c o u n t r i e s : B e l g i u m , Switzerland, Luxembourg, Denmark, Ireland, the Netherlands, Austria, and Japan he/she has the right to the title of International Master Walker, an entry into a register, a unique certificate, and an inscribed clip in silver or gold for attaching the medal ribbon. On completing IML walks in eight of the European member countries, the walker is entitled to the European Walker title, certificate, and clip.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

My Favourite Walk

Lake Alta Track - a climb to a By Yvonne van Eerden

We had a week in Queenstown to do some tramping and looking around. The morning was clear and we decided to go up to the Remarkables to walk to Lake Alta (a walk of one and a half hours return). Lake Alta is an alpine cirque lake (bowl shaped amphitheater – like Above: A mirrtor image in Lake Alta. Below left: The low cloud had rolled in but we were nearly back at the carpark.

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My MyFavourite FavouriteWalk Walk

glacial lake depressions that glaciers carve into mountains and valley side walls at high elevations). We headed up to the Remarkables skifield by car to walk to Lake Alta from the skifield, (there was a toll gate and we were more than happy to pay the $10 which goes towards keeping the road in good condition). There was no snow to be seen, the day was crisp with unbelievable clear blue sky and no wind. On the way up the road, we stopped at view points to take photos of Queenstown and the surrounding area. Once at the car park we organised www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Above right: Looking into the still waters of Lake Alta.. Below right: The track beside rocky terrain up to the lake.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

My Favourite Walk

Lake Alta Track - a climb to a glacial lake ourselves with our gear and made sure we had lunch. What an amazing place and we were only at the carpark. It was so incredibly unreal to see all the surrounds, the mountain peaks, the ski road, the chair lifts and the blue sky. We headed up to the ski building and followed the signs which were especially for trampers and walkers to follow to Lake Alta. This was not a huge tramp as it was only one and a half hours but we knew we would Above: The skifield building in Summer. Below left: Walking through a tussock patch.

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My Favourite Walk

Fact file

take our time and just soak in the spectacular views, stopping many times. We headed to the ski conveyors and snow making machines and saw all the ski buildings with the chair lifts. The skifield was certainly a huge place. After walking up the 4WD road we came to the start of the smaller track up to Lake Alta where we had ice under foot in places with the schist rocks which were slippery in places, so you definitely had to watch every step. There were huge boulders around. You never got tired of looking at the surrounding scenery. We kept a close eye on the weather as the cloud was coming in behind us but it was very slow moving so we knew we had plenty of time. The weather can change at any stage and we had all the gear. We reached Lake Alta and at first you could not see the water as it was so grey. As we came closer you realised it was water. How absolutely incredible to be able to see Lake Alta with all the surrounding boulders and mountain peaks. There was so much scenery to soak in. As you got closer the shallow parts of the lake were as clear as anything all the way to the bottom. We met some other hardy tramp-

Above: Time for a rest and enjoy the scenery. Below: Some of the huge bolders beside the track. ers, some even going higher to the top peaks but we were definitely happy to sit on some rocks to have our lunch and then take many photos. After lunch we headed back to the car park and we soon reached the low cloud so stopped to put some more layers on but we knew we had the best part of the day. What an unbelievable place to visit with spectacular views. How lucky we are to have been able to walk on the skifield to see Lake Alta. A great day had by all.

Lake Alta Track Located in Remarkables Conservation Area in the Otago region the climb to the glacial (by both definition and temperature!) Lake Alta will give you a perspective of the Remarkables Ski Area outside of the ski season. It begins on the road behind the skifield buildings and follows a road to the top of the Alta Chairlift. From there, cairns and flagstones mark the way through alpine wetlands, up to the picturesque lake framed by the mountain’s jagged peaks. Duration: 1.5 hours return Best time to go: Summer months from November after the ski area has closed. In winter with appropriate snow gear (skins or snowshoes) only. Start/Finish: The Remarkables Ski Area base, via the Remarkables Ski Area access road. South of the Kawarau River on the eastern side of Lake Whakatipu, turn off SH 6 at the signposted junction to the Remarkables ski area. Difficulty: Advanced, tramping track Bike-friendly: No

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

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Photo Contest

We are looking for the best digital photos each month depicting walking Now the time to get your digital camera out or look through your digital images and enter the

Walking New Zealand Digital Photo Contest

The image could be a scenic scene, a walk on the beach with the dog, a bush walk, a street walk or anything walking that takes your fancy. The rules are simply: there must be a person or persons walking in the picture either front, side or back on, and can be in the distance. We require an emailed image in high resolution mode, in jpeg format as an attachment, and NOT embedded in Word or in the email, and NOT a link to a website to be downloaded. The subject line must have the words “Walking New Zealand Photo Contest” and the email must include the NAME, POSTAL ADDRESS and phone number of the person who took the photo and a small caption. In this contest ONLY ONE emailed photo accepted per month. Entry in the contest automatically allows us to print the image. The person who has their photo published will receive a six month subscription or a renewal to Walking New Zealand magazine of six months. If a picture is chosen for the cover page the person will receive a 12 month subscription or renewal.

Email your entries to: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz with s u b j e c t l i n e “ Wa l k i n g N e w Z e a l a n d P h o t o C o n t e s t ” Only EMAILED entries will be accepted.

PHOTO CONTEST Above top: My husband Bruce on the newly opened walkway in Meadowbank. This lovely walkway is the Section 2 of the Glen Innes to Tamaki Drive shared pathway. It boasts stunning views of the river and reserves. Photo by Josephine Alexander, Henderson, Auckland. Above: Annie, at the Blue Spring, Te Waihou Walkway, Putaruru. Photo by Alex Wong, Riverhead. 16 Walking Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022 16 New Zealand, issue no 294

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Photo Contest

Above left: A member of the Upper Hutt Walking and Tramping Club blending in well with the greenery on the Banks Peninsular Track in January 2022’. Photo by Sharon Dunstan, Whitby, Porirua Above right: If you go into The Hanmer Forest Sculptural Walk today you’re sure of a big surprise’. But don’t forget to look up also for its amazing what one might find on this easy walking track, suitable for all ages. Photo by Ann Kidd, Motueka. Below right: Time for reflection on the Wetlands Loop at Bushy Park, Whanganui. Photo by Zoe Cooper, Paraparaumu You can now view and enjoy the latest issue of

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Need 2 Know EVENT

Waiheke Walking Festival with walks for everyone T

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he last year’s lockdowns may have turned our world upside down, and it sadly meant the cancellation of the 2021 Waiheke Walking Festival, but this year the Festival is returning with plans and a programme that will be ‘uncancellable’. What the team learned over the past two years is that things change quickly, so they’ve designed a Festival that can flex with the changes and is sure to offer something for everyone. The focus this year is on creating amazing walks, offering choices for how people can do those walks, and keeping the walkers and volunteers safe. Those who live on Waiheke Island have long known they live in paradise, and one of the silver linings of closed borders has been more Kiwis coming to the island. And why wouldn’t you? A tropical island with its own micro-climate a short Fullers360 ferry ride from downtown

- 2022

Auckland. Waiheke is famous for award-winning wine and restaurants, beautiful beaches and views that simply take your breath away. In addition to this, it is fast becoming well-known for the huge network of tracks that hug the coast beneath giant pōhutukawa trees, or zig-zag their way through the Whakanewha Regional Park to the chorus of tūī, kereru and pīwakawaka. The Island has a rich history of Māori on Waiheke, with Europeans also settling and farming on the Island - some of which are explored in the Festival’s storytelling walks, including a Māori pā site. On the beach, you can spot dotterels (tūturiwhatu) in a protected area. And of course, walks can be tactfully planned to end at one of those award-winning vineyards. Above:: Great coastal views on this walk. Photo Rainer Lehr. Below left: Walking in Whakanewha Regional Park. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

EVENT Now in its twelfth year, this looks set to be the best 11 days of walking events yet! Established in 2010 by an enthusiastic group of locals, the idea of the Waiheke Walking Festival is to offer participants the chance to spend time on Waiheke Island and walk in areas not normally open to the public. Lovingly labelled the ‘world’s friendliest Walking Festival’, the event is about friendship, fun and getting out amongst nature, with low impact on the island’s environment. It’s important to understand locals put on this event for the love of it; The Waiheke Walking Trust is a charitable trust that exists to showcase Waiheke Island as a walking destination and to encourage and inspire people to experience walking recreation on Waiheke. This year the Waiheke Walking Festival will take place from 10-20 November. Over 50 different walks vary to ensure all abilities and interests are catered for. The walks cover everything from progressive food walks, photography, music, conservation and fitness, with many opportunities to walk on private land. The 11-day schedule of walks is full of family-friendly events and caters to everyone and anyone; there’s even a silent disco! For those after a challenge, why not consider the five-day 100km Te Ara Hura adventure that circumnavigates the island. All shuttle transfers are sorted and there is no need to carry more than a day pack. This is an extremely popular walk and one that often books out. With COVID-19 now a reality in our world, planning for the 2022 Festival includes some optional selfguided walks, and the Festival will be introducing a new walking App, which is under development, which will be used for the storytelling walk around Rangihoua, and to make the self-guided walks easy to follow. Don’t worry, there are still plenty of walks with guides and volunteers, as is the Festival’s lovely tradition, and measures will be in place to keep walkers and volunteers safe. They have a motto on Waiheke: “Slow down, you’re here”, and that www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

is what the Waiheke Walking Festival does best. Start planning your November walking adventure now by signing up to the newsletter and you’ll be kept informed of all the dates and how to register. If for some reason you can’t make the Festival but are visiting Waiheke, many great walks that are available all year round can be found at www. walkwaiheke.co.nz So, grab a group of friends, put the dates aside and use the Festival as a good excuse to become healthier and fitter, whilst having fun. Key information 10 – 20 November 2022 For more information, programme

details and to book walks visit www. waihekewalkingfestival.org and outside of the Waiheke Walking Festival www.walkwaiheke.co.nz Above: Walking throuh a forest plantation. Photo by Michelle Abro.

10 - 20 NOVEMBER 2022 11 days of spectacular walks

THE WORLD’S FRIENDLIEST WALKING FESTIVAL Join us on beautiful Waiheke Island, our festival has walks for everyone Check out the website for all the details on festival programme and bookings www.waihekewalkingfestival.org PRESENTING PARTNER

MAJOR SPONSORS

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Ray White Waiheke

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Heaphy Track - a walk of contrasts

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f all the Great Walks, the Heaphy Track delivers the strongest contrasts. Every section of the track is vastly different from the previous one. Choose to hike this track and you’ll get luxuriant rainforest; subalpine tussock grasslands; high, rugged mountains; and, finally, lowland forest and palm-fringed surf beaches. You’re in for 82 kilometres of hard walking, but the frequent scenery changes will certainly take your mind off sore feet. The track is staged within the Kahurangi National Park, the second largest national park in the country and home to many Great Spotted Kiwi Birds. Even to a non-geologist, Kahurangi’s rocks are deeply interesting. Parts of the region are limestone or marble; these areas are characterised by an abundance of caves, bluffs, natural arches, sinkholes and waterworn outcrops. The park also contains the largest cave system in New Zealand. The path followed by the Heaphy Track was first used by Maori pounamu hunters travelling from Golden Bay to the pounamu (jade) rivers of Westland. Pounamu was highly valued for tools, weapons and ornaments.

Where to stay on the track

DOC operates six huts and nine Great Walks campsites along the Heaphy Track, that must be booked in advance all year round. Campers are not permitted to use hut facilities. Kōhaihai is a Standard campsite which must be booked online in advance on the Campsites/Huts/Lodges booking system. See www.doc.govt.nz/campsites for details. and www.doc.govt.nz/heaphytrack for prices. Great Walk huts Huts have bunks, mattresses, a water supply, toilets, hand-washing facilities and heating with fuel. All huts have cooking fuel, except Brown Hut and Gouland Downs Hut. A DOC ranger may be present. Great Walks campsites Visit www.doc.govt.nz/heaphytrack for prices. The campsites offer basic facilities including toilets, a sink and a water supply. Some also have picnic tables and cooking shelters.

Getting to the track

You can start the Heaphy Track from the following locations: * Brown Hut, Golden Bay: from Collingwood take the road up Aorere valley to Brown Hut (28 km). * Kōhaihai, West Coast: from Karamea, head north to the car park and campsite at Kōhaihai River (15 km). The ends of the track are 463 km apart by road, so you will need to arrange transport at each end. Bus, taxi, air and vehicle relocation services are available from both ends of the track. (Limited bus services operate in winter.)

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www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

My Favourite Walk

Hiking the Heaphy Track in reverse

By Ruth Reidy

n January 2022, four family members decided to hike the HeaphyTrack in reverse. We flew from Nelson to Karamea which was a stunning flight, showcasing the beauty of the region. “The Last Resort” in Karamea, was were we stayed, walked around the town and around the estuary to limber up. We shuttled to Kohaihai campsite where we started the tramp. Day one- Kohaihai to Heaphy Hut: This was beautiful, stunning coastal walk with palm trees, sandy paths and breath-taking coastal views. At the end of the day we had a refreshing swim in the Heaphy River Day 2- Heaphy Hut to James Mackay Hut: This was by far the most physical challenging day. Here we crossed the 148.88m long Heaphy River bridgethe longest suspended deck bridge in New Zealand. After we stopped for a much needed break at the Lewis Shelter climbed

Above left: The view from the air. Middle below: Time for a dip. Above right: Filling up a drink bottle.

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My Favourite Walk

to the James Mackay Hut. The James Mackay hut was a welcome relief, well equipped and perfect for a relaxed night playing cards and chatting with fellow travellers. Day 3- James Mackay to Perry Saddle Hut: Here it was changing terrain and landscape of tussock grass and beautiful wide meadows with distinct takahe droppings - that kept us looking for the takahe as we walked. We enjoyed our lunch at Gouland Downs before being greeted by a pair of takahe at the James Mackay Hut. Here we braved the ice cold spa for a 30 second dip and wash. Day 4- Perry Saddle Hut to Brown’s Hut:

Our last night we were informed by the ranger of an impending storm as bad weather was imminent and the track was about to be closed. F o r t u n a t e l y f o r u s we h a d walked in reverse so we were able to descend to Brown’s Hut, which we did in the dark and the pouring rain the following morning. Browns Hut was a welcomed sight. Above left: On day three. Below left: Through the nikau palms. Middle above: A tame takahe. Middle right: The boardwalk over wetland. Above right: A lone nikau stands out.

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Need 2 Know

Charlotte Track as well as visitors to the Marlborough Sounds. Operated as accommodation by long-time locals Juliet and Steve Gibbons, also the owners of Wilderness Guides Marlborough Sounds, the boutique bed and breakfast is a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of daily life or a pause point along the Queen Charlotte Track. During a Mahana stay, guests are hosted and catered for by hospitable and experienced Lodge Manager and Chef, David Woodley. The old homestead was built around 1890, the oldest house in name. this part of the Sounds. A much new One day they were clearing out an purpose-built lodge sits behind the old shed and came across a stencil main building nestled into the Punga which had been used for marking ferns with four comfortable ensuite wool bales with the word “Mahana”. On enquiry, they found that the Above left: A bird’s eye view of the property up until about 50 years ago historic Mahana Lodge. had been called Mahana. Above right: . Fresh herbs in the There was no further discussion, garden awaiting harvesting for John and Ann Martin gave Mahana dinner. back its original name. Below right: The Mahana homestead Today Mahana Lodge is owned was built in 1890. by Andrew and Ursula Davis from Below right: The highest point in Queenstown who continue to al- the Sounds is near Mahana – Mt low their property to be enjoyed by Stokes – and it’s a popular day hike walkers and bikers on the Queen for walkers.

Mahana Lodge – where a warm welcome awaits By Juliet Gibbons

ahana in Māori word means warmth, shelter, and hospitality. All this and more are waiting for hikers visiting the Mahana Lodge in the Marlborough Sounds. When the previous owners of Mahana Lodge, John and Ann Martin, bought the property in 2002 it was called the Homestead Backpackers. There were many “Homesteads” in the Marlborough Sounds and they thought such a beautiful place was deserving of a more descriptive

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www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Need 2 Know

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Chef David explains the menu, where the food comes from, how it gets to Mahana in the remote Marlborough Sounds, why he chooses certain products over others, the regionality of the food, how he cooks it and any story that goes with the product, farmer, and supplier. Our extensive wine list also has a story behind every wine. The Chef’s Table is not just a meal, it’s an experience. And the Mahana experience is one all involved hope will leave visitors with fond memories of this beautiful part of the Marlborough Sounds.

Above: The Chef’s Table is a must at Mahana. rooms and a large communal lounge with views across the bay. When the homestead was first built, Endeavour Inlet was a thriving community. The antimony mines operating around that time drew miners and their families to the remote area as well as all the supporting businesses any community needs - school teachers, bakers, a butcher, and post office. Walk the Queen Charlotte Track today and you can learn all about this short-lived but fascinating industry as you pass the head of the inlet. The historic Homestead is the heart of the Mahana Lodge complex

and is set in lovely surroundings of native bush and established gardens. It was once the centre of a large sheep farm but now the farm has been returned to forest and the lovingly restored homestead welcomes visitors instead. Native forest is being encouraged to grow where the pastures were, and tourism has taken the place of farming. A visit to Mahana Lodge is not complete without taking a seat at the Chef’s Table. Chef David’s three course cuisine experience regularly gets rave reviews and is an experience not to be missed. It features locally sourced fresh produce prepared by the former restaurateur and food writer. Mahana’s dining setting in the lush garden conservatory with an overhanging vine of eatable grapes in season is a unique and for many walkers, counts as a highlight when walking the track.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Australian Walks

360° of wonder Norfolk Island

rom surfing to stargazing, ghost tours to golf, stunning scenery, pristine beaches and fantastic food, Norfolk Island has it all. It’s less than a three-hour flight from New Zealand, and once you experience Norfolk Island’s 360° of wonder, you’ll soon be wondering why you didn’t come over sooner! Everywhere you turn on Norfolk Island - literally for 360 degrees there’s something wonderful, something to thrill and inspire, to soo the

the mind, body and soul. And while Norfolk has been on many Kiwis’ to-do list for years, and there’s never been a better time than now to come see paradise before the hustle and bustle returns. With its mix of sunlit sands and crystal-clear waters, rugged cliffs and deep forests, Norfolk’s diverse landscape magically changes at each turn. And while it’s an ideal spot to kick back and bask in the sunshine and sea air, chances are you won’t be sitting still for long. Above: Picturesque Norfolk Island from the air, with the jetty to the left, Kingston and Emily Bay to the right. Below left: Located on the west coast of Norfolk Island near Anson Bay, Puppy’s Po i n t i s k n ow n f o r i t s spectacular sunsets, with people gathering here for picnics at dusk.

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Pull on some goggles and float out from the sands of Emily Bay to coral reefs or out a little further into surf breaks where the waves are plenty and your fellow surfers are friendly and few. There are morning charters that let you fish the day away - and the fishing here is spectacular! - then by night sit back as your catch is served up to you expertly prepared island style. And island style eating is what is putting Norfolk Island on the map for many foodies. Because forget about food miles - on Norfolk they work in food metres! Their volcanic soils are rich, deep, and free of all the chemical nasties the rest of the world is finally waking up to, so pile your plate with food caught, collected and harvested from www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Australian Walks

our pristine waters, tide pools and paddocks each day. And, if you like to eat organic, well, that’s pretty much the only way the Islanders know: from mouth-watering fresh-caught seafood cooked on the barbecue or flame-grilled Norfolk Blue beef served up in the atmospheric dining room of a convict-era home, to the South Pacific’s best wood-fired pizzas and burgers big enough to satisfy the appetite of the most ravenous castaway.

So come on Kiwis, now really is the time to get back in the air and get on over to Norfolk Island before the rest of the world returns. It’s just a hop, skip and a jump away, and it offers everything you want in the perfect getaway: sun, sand, great food, relaxation and adventure. So, what are you waiting for? Advertorial

Above: Picturesque Norfolk Island from the air, with the jetty to the left, Kingston and Emily Bay to the right.

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Australian Walks

Norfolk Island for all year

round walking and hiking

orfolk Island is the perfect year-round hiking destination. After working up a sweat on the walks and trails, just head down to some of the world’s most beautiful beaches and cool off in crystalclear waters. Being a maritime climate, the weather can be changeable so it’s always good to pack an extra layer. But you’ll

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Norfolk Island is just 805km from the tip of New Zealand and under three hours flight time from Auckland.

usually find a hat, swimmers, sunscreen and water bottle are of far more use! Best nature trails Norfolk Island National Park offers 10 well-marked walking tracks, with lengths and grades to suit every ability. You can take a rainforest hike beneath the world’s tallest tree ferns, follow coastal tracks alive with the ever-changing songs of the sea and climb summits to see the horizon in all its 360° glory. The Botanical Gardens’ easy trails, boardwalks and circuits are the perfect way for nature lovers to learn about Norfolk Island’s unique flora, while enjoying more of the island’s best views. All walks are self-guided, but if you’d like to learn more, why not sign up for a breakfast bushwalk or birdwatching tour? Speaking of tours, if you’d like a hike that’s truly on the wild side, book a half-day expedition to nearby Phillip Island, a marine and seabird sanctuary that offers amazing views back to Norfolk. Top tips for walking and hiking Bring sturdy shoes. Some trails may be uneven and can get slippery after rain. The scenery can be mesmerising, but do watch your step, especially around coastal paths and cliffs. Please stay on the tracks to avoid damaging plants and causing erosion. As cute as they are, please resist the urge to feed the wildlife, it undermines their efforts to control introduced birds and rodents. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Australian Walks

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Which Great for you? Are you thinking of doing a Great Walk, but not sure which one? Here’s a handy guide. By Jayne Ramage

Great Walks are the jewels in the recreation crown here in Aotearoa New Zealand. These multi-day hikes provide unparalleled access to some of the country’s most incredible natural landscapes, wildlife and cultural heritage. The experience of doing a Great Walk is awe-inspiring, exhilarating, and highly photogenic. But like all hot commodities, some of these walks book out quickly. Happily, there are many Great Walks to choose from. And not all of them fill up as fast as the Milford, that’s a myth. Which Great Walk is right for you depends on a few factors: it’s important to make sure you have a walk that matches your fitness and skills, and that you’re well prepared for both the track and the weather. A good way to decide is to … walk through the options. (Pun absolutely intended). Here are six possible scenarios and our suggestion for which Great Walk fits best. Off we go!

1) I’d like to do a Great Walk with my three kids

Above top: Hlkers on Heaphy Track, and the 30 years of Great Walks icon. Photo Miles Holden

Second from top: Two hikers by the water on the Routeburn Track in Fiordland. Photo Miles Holden Above: Visitors look out over Torrent Bay and Estuary from the Abel Tasman Coast track. Photo Shellie Evans Below: Adventurers with a kayak on the Abel Tasman Coast Track. Photo Pete Black

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We love your ambition. If your kids have some hiking experience and would be up to doing a multi-day hike, have a read up on the Abel Tasman Coast Track to see if it would be suitable. The Abel Tasman is famous for its mild climate, golden beaches, sculpted granite cliffs and coastal native bush. This track is 60km one way and graded as an Intermediate walk. That means the track is generally well formed, although some sections are steep and muddy. The track will have signs, poles or markers, and there is one compulsory tidal crossing. You can walk the whole track in either direction or just do a shorter section depending on your group’s time, ability, and enthusiasm. You can take a water taxi or kayak between locations. There are four huts and 18 campsites along the Abel Tasman Coast Track, which need to be booked in advance. The Abel Tasman also has great options for people who want to stay somewhere beautiful but aren’t interested or able to tackle a long walk and just want to hang out on the beach. There’s also an option of doing a guided walk, which may include private accommodation, or our campsites. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walk is right Abel Tasman highlights include Cleopatra’s Pool with a picturesque rock pool to swim in, a long suspension bridge, and plenty of kekeno/fur seals who call the place home. You’re best positioned to know what is and isn’t within the abilities of your kids, but a reasonable level of fitness is needed. If you decide yours aren’t quite ready for the full Abel Tasman experience, you could take them for an overnight adventure with a water taxi, or we have an easily searchable and kid-friendly section on the Great Walks website. Maybe test them out on some shorter adventures first, to see if they hate it. Just in case they decide that walking is the broccoli of the outdoors.

2) Me and my uni friends in О̄tautahi Christchurch want to try our first overnight tramp

That’s an elite study break. What about doing an overnight camping trip to Routeburn Flats Campsite on the Routeburn, or spending a night at Heaphy Hut on—you guessed it—the Heaphy? That way you get all the fun of a Great Walk without committing to the whole thing before you know if everyone in your group can hack it. Routeburn Flats Campsite and Routeburn Flats Hut are about 1.5 – 2.5 hours walk from the Routeburn Shelter (road end). You could stop there and reverse back out the next day, or extend your adventure and tackle the incline to spend the night at Routeburn Falls Hut. Through trips on the Heaphy aren’t possible right now on account of storm damage to three bridges, but that won’t stop you from enjoying it. The Heaphy Hut has gas cooking facilities and 32-bunks, so you can get the whole gang together. This hut has gas cooking facilities and running water, so it’s an adventure but not too rough. There’s also a drive-in camping option at Kōhaihai Campsite, with beautiful nīkau forest. You can do lots of day walk adventures if you set up a home base at this point, as well as go whitewater kayaking, windsurfing or swimming in the river or at nearby Scotts Beach. The University of Canterbury also has a tramping club, you could always reach out to them for suggestions. Remember these sites need bookings, so you’re going to want to wrangle your pals quickly. Maybe don’t invite your flaky friend.

3) I’m a real outdoorsy person and I want to be at one with nature. Also, I snore.

Say no more. You definitely need to check out the camping options on the Kepler Track or the Routeburn. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Above top: Cleopatra’s Pool natural pool. Photo

RaviGogna under CC BY 2.0.

Second from top:: Three walkers sitting along the Routeburn Track. Photo Keri Moyle

Above: Routeburn flats campsite cloaked in early morning mist. Photo Tahu Taylor-Koolen, DOC

Right: Hiker s track playing card games at a hut. Photo Keri Moyle Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Which Great Walk is right for you? Then you can snore and hike as much as you like. The Kepler is renowned for its spectacular vistas over vast mountain ranges and valleys. It can offer some challenging conditions though, so make sure you know what to pack and what to expect. Also, expect kea in the alpine section of the track. They’re bird geniuses and will outsmart the best of us, so watch out for your stuff while hanging out with these endangered rascals. Our advice for interacting with kea: watch your stuff, and do not feed them. No matter how persuasive they are. Highlights of the Kepler include, but are not limited to, the Luxmore Caves and the spectacular Iris Burn Falls. PS: you can also stay in huts if you snore, we don’t bar snorers from entry. Most people know to expect some snorers in shared accommodation. Ear plugs are on most of our packing lists for a reason.

4) I’m an experienced tramper who lives in Tāmaki Makaurau Auckland, but things are really busy for me right now and I can’t be away from work for long

We hear you. What about a zippy trip down to the Central North Island, and then up the beautiful Tongariro Northern Circuit for a 44.9km loop walk? Enjoy alpine views so magnificent, they’ll push the urban stresses right out of your head. This track is estimated to take three to four days and is graded as Intermediate but note there are seasonal restrictions around this. Book for the Great Walks season, as out of season (May to late October), the track should only be attempted by experienced trampers with high fitness. Picture yourself at Waihohonu hut, a mug of something hot and maybe sugary in hand, reflecting on the exhilarating adventure you just enjoyed. Tongariro highlights include the Emerald Lakes—which really are emerald!—incredible views, and sunsets and sunrises that are Instagram gold. Sunsets are an excellent palette cleanser before going back to work. Above top left: Tents pitched at Kōhaihai Campsite at golden hou. Photo Laura Honey, DOC Send from top: A hiker with a pack looking back along the Routeburn Track. Photo: Keri Moyle Send from bottom: A hiker at Iris Burn hut tying their laces before setting out. Photo: Keri Moyle Bottom left: Three hikers on the Tongariro Northern Circuit track Photo: Daniel Deans, DOC

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www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

5) My partner and I are visiting NZ from overseas and we’re keen to immerse in nature

Haere mai! Welcome! What about getting really off the beaten track and heading down to Rakiura/Stewart Island to explore the Rakiura Track? Enjoy the peace and quiet of one of the world’s most remote locations with bush, birds and the beach at your side. This 32km loop trip will take three days to walk. Depending on recent weather, it can get muddy in sections so good footwear and gaiters are recommended. It’s an Intermediate Walk offering many opportunities to relax and unwind with nature. And if you don’t want to do an overnight trip, you can get a water taxi for a shorter experience. Rakiura highlights include tokoeka/kiwi—listen for their calls and look for their footprints!—and a lot of places to learn about the ngahere/forest, not to mention the remarkable Ulva Island and its bird life. You will return home with nature travel stories than no one at the pub can top, plus you’ll often get the satisfaction of pulling up pictures on your phone to prove to naysayers that Rakiura is a real place.

6) I want to do a beautiful walk but not a multi-night trip because I don’t think I have the fitness or the skills

No shame in that! Lots of people want to start with the Great Walks because of how beautiful and famous they are. It’s true, they are both those things, but they’re not for absolute beginners. We have many options for shorter adventures on our websites, and plus you can do specific searches filtered on your ability, or, importantly, the ability of everyone in your adventure group. As a starter for ten, we suggest you scope out overnight adventures like Anchorage Hut, Ces Clarke Hut, or Perry Saddle Hut. And as mentioned, some walks like the Abel Tasman, can be done as a guided walk. It could be worth investigating guided experience providers if this sounds like a bit of you. At the end of the day The 2022-23 booking season marks 30 years of Great Walks, and we want to make sure that the love gets shared between them. Keeping these walks great is a collaborative effort. In particular: local iwi, community groups and businesses like Air New Zealand work with us to protect and conserve these iconic tracks and their biodiversity. Remember to research your adventure before you book it, plan carefully, pack smart, and limit your impact outdoors by following the Tiaki Care Code. Head to the DOC booking system to claim your spot(s) for the upcoming season. Happy adventuring! www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Above top:: Sunset on the Tongariro Northern Circuit. Photo: Jimmy Johnston, DOC

Second from top: Waihohonu hut exterior in Tongariro National Park. Photo: Janette Asche Above: Two hikers studying a fold out map at a track junction on Rakiura. Photo: Keri Moyle Below: Two hikers leaving North Arm hut, one waving. Photo: Keri Moyle

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

New Zealand Walking Tours

Waka, Wars, Wines and Walks Phillip Donnell explores dition a taniwha called Tuhirangi took the 2014 Te Tau Ihu settlement the attractions of Marvellous (probably a dolphin) guided him. for the Maori names of more than 30 The remains of early Polynesian set- landmarks to be officially recognised. Marlborough. Captain James Cook was the first

n Karaka Point, Marlborough, an isolated pa overlooking the sea, stands a carved wooden pouwhenua of Kupe, the mythical tupuna, or ancestor figure, locked in battle with the giant octopus Te Wheke o Muturangi, which he fought in Tory Channel. Local place names and traditions suggest that Kupe discovered what is now Marlborough. In Māori traAbove top: Peaceful Anakiwa. Below left: Picton Harbour at dawn. Below right: Davies Bay, Queen Charlotte Sound.

34 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294

tlers were found at Wairau Bar. Māori made adzes from argillite rock, found on Rangitoto ki te Tonga (D’Urville Island). The northeast corner of Te Waipounamu (the South Island) is part of Te Tau Ihu o te Waka-a-Māui (the prow of Māui’s canoe). Marlborough as a whole, however, did not have a Māori name, as some eight separate iwi occupied different parts and simply gave names to their own jurisdictions. The largest such area was Wairau. Nine local chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi on 17 June, 1840, but it

- 2022

European to visit, arriving in 1770 in his waka the Endeavour. Subsequent European names in this region focus on British war heroes, in particular the 1st Duke of Marlborough, an English general and statesman. Blenheim (Waiharakeke – “flax stream”) recalls the Battle of Blenheim (1704), where troops led by this general defeated a combined French and Bavarian force. Picton (Waitohi – a baptismal rite) is named after Sir Thomas Picton, the Welsh military associate of the Duke

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Walking Tours

of Wellington, who was killed at the Battle of Waterloo. His connection to the slave trade and controversial governorship of Trinidad have resulted in calls for the town to be renamed. Sir Henry Havelock, commander of the British forces in India, was involved in putting down the Indian Mutiny of 1857. His son served under General Cameron during the NZ Land Wars, participating in the siege of Orakau in 1864. On the hinterland surrounding these towns a thriving wine industry has developed. According to Marlborough District Council, some 28,846 hectares of Marlborough (2.75% of the total land area) is planted in grapes. The reason that it can seem like Marlborough is overrun with vines is that the area is best suited for viticulture also happen to be near where most of the roads run, as both roads and vines benefit from flat or gently rolling country. Some of the best Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris in the world is produced here. About 28% of Marlborough is pasture, and 20% is native forest, but half isn’t used for anything – it’s just left in its wild state.

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Such wilderness domains are ideal for outdoor pursuits. Mount Richmond Forest Park has an extensive network of tracks and huts, including part of the Te Araroa Trail. My favourite is the loop of Lake Chalice (9km, three to four hours). Richmond is complemented by the St Arnaud Range in the west, the Amuri Range in the south, and the Seaward/ Inland Kaikoura Ranges to the east. Tapuae-o-Uenuku, in the Inland Kaikōura Range, is 2885 metres high,

the highest point in New Zealand outside the Southern Alps. These hills and mountains offer a plethora of perambulatory possibilities. Nelson Lakes National Park is viewed by some as the most scenic in New Zealand. It straddles two magnificent alpine lakes (Rotoiti and Rotoroa), fed by rivers flowing down Above: On the Pelorus Track, Marlborough. Below left: On the Lake Chalice Loop. Below right: Climbing to Bushline Hut above Lake Rotoiti.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

New Zealand Walking Tours

Waka, Wars, Wines and Walks

three parallel pristine valleys, the Travis, Sabine and D’Urville. Whether it is on short saunters around Kerr Bay (e.g. Brunner Peninsula one hour 30 minutes), or slightly more challenging ventures (e.g. Bushline Hut Loop four to five hours), you cannot help but be buoyed by the quality of the vistas that open up before you in quick succession. From St Arnaud, it’s possible to drive through the remote tussock and tarns of Rainbow Station to the relaxing hot springs of a true spa town – Hanmer Springs. It contains the largest outflows of thermal water in the South

FOOTSTEPS

Island, which are balm to the body after a day of strolling the gentle forest walks that make this remote resort so pleasant and picturesque. Both are excellent therapy! The 257km long Wairau River, and 230km Waiau Toa/Clarence River snake their way from the high country to the ocean. Marlborough’s 1,893 kilometres of coastline incorporate the long tentacles of Queen Charlotte, Pelorus, Kenepuru and Mahau Sounds, along with Cook Strait. These features add to the numerous walking opportunities. Best known are the famous Queen Charlotte Track (71km) from Ship Cove to Anakiwa, and the Kaikoura Point Walkway (two to three hours). Less known are the beautiful walks

around Whites Bay or Pukatea, where Arper Ailsworth took up residence with local Māori after abandoning an American whaling ship in 1828.The Maori nicknamed him “Black Jack White.” No visitor to the Marlborough region should miss ambling around Sir Peter Jacksons’ Aviation Heritage Centre at Omaka, divided into the Knights of the Sky (WW1) and Dangerous Skies (WW2) exhibitions. Both feature mannequins made by Weta Workshop, and original, flyable static aircraft in larger-than-life dioramas, capturing specific snapshots in history. Rare memorabilia are on display, worthy of any international collection, ranging from beautifullycrafted “trench art” through to personal items belonging to the famous Red Baron himself! If your appetite is whetted, why not join the one-week walking excursion to Marlborough scheduled for 5-11 February 2023 by Footsteps Walking Club of Aotearoa New Zealand? It is a no-frills, low-cost outing, where you choose how much walking you want to do, all with the company of likeminded enthusiasts and the security of experienced leaders. Full details are on their website (www.footstepswalkingclub.com). You can contact Footsteps by phone (021 172 3244) or email them (footstepsanz@gmail.com). They would be delighted to have your participation on a visit to this marvellous region of our country! Above: Lake Rotoiti from Mount Robert. Below: Marlborough cloud over Kenepuru.

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OFFERING THE BEST DAY WALKS IN 20 REGIONS OF NEW ZEALAND!

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36 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294

5.45am - 7.15am - 8.30am - 9.45am departures $45per person for return trip www.tongarirocrossingshuttles.co.nz Tongariro National Park a Dual World Heritage Site

- 2022

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PRICES FROM AUGUST 1 2022

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

My Favourite Walk

Tramping Te Apiti - the narrow passage Above: An informative whare with impressive displays of Maori history and Te Apiti events over the years. Below left: The 6.2 metres high, 1,5 metres wide, 1.2 metres deep steel statue of Whataonga.

38 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294

By Daniel Haddock

“It is the only place in New Zealand where a river begins its journey on the opposite side of the main divide to where it joins the sea. With its native bush and wildlife, Te Āpiti is a time capsule that preserves the bush that once covered the Manawatū, a place frozen in time.” (Te Apiti-Manawatu Gorge- Te whenua me te tāhuhu koreroHorizons Regional Council) Sunday, July 3rd dawned with a frost in Havelock North as 10 Heretaunga Tramping Club members boarded the van accompanied by one car of four members for the trip to the 11.3 km. Manawatu Gorge Track. Another driver was picked up in Norsewood and David joined in Dannevirke. “In April 2017, the Manawatu Gorge was closed again due to a large slip. Contractors were pulled out of clearing the slip in July 2017 due to ongoing geological movement in the hill, closing the road indefinitely.” So five years on, the closure necessitated dropping off one group at the eastern entrance, Ferry Road Reserve. The van was then driven back to the western Ashhurst end where those remaining parked the van/car and started the track. - 2022

The eastern entrance was marked by a whare of detailed historical/ current information of this unique reserve above the Manawatū River, which the Rangitane Iwi named Te Au Rere a Te Tonga, meaning ‘the rushing current of the south’. The track was well-maintained and featured an array of signage along the journey. The trail climbed and descended in long sections. Viewpoints There are five viewpoints which “give spectacular vistas of the river, road, railway, reserve and turbines at nearby windfarms” (DOC). Each stop was a few metres off the track and well-worth the detour. You could hear the turbines well before getting up close and personal with them. Standing above the river along the various viewpoints, you could see where the railway tunnel entered on the Woodville side. Ferns, birds and nikau palms Te Apiti is an isolated remnant of native podocarp forest. (PNCC.govt. nz) Much of the flora was identified

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My Favourite Walk

with signs providing a break as you strode up hills and down dale. The reserve is one of the only places where the giant maiden hair fern is found in the wild. Eleven other ferns were labelled along the trail including the kowaowao/hound’s tooth fern, mokimoki/fragrant fern, kiwikiwi/creek fern, pikopiko/hen and chicken fern, the petipeti/crown fern and the shining spleenwort which is only found in New Zealand and the Kermadecs. (Te Apiti-Manawatu Gorge Environment) We heard a lot of birds but did not see that many. Apart from those we see commonly in Hawkes Bay, these birds inhabit the area as well: popokatea/whitehead, kahu/swamp harrier, karearea/falcon, miromiro/ North Island tomtit, and titipounamu/rifleman. A clever addition were the clusters of silver poles in various locations with the bird’s name, picture and Above right: From a viewpoint looking back showing the closed road on the left and the rail line entering a tunnel on the right. Photo FQG Below left: An impressive Northern Rata tree that were once common in the Ruahine Range but have largely been eliminated through deer and possum browsing. Photo Glenda Hooper

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

My Favourite Walk

Tramping Te Apiti the narrow passage a QR code you could scan to hear their call. There were extensive stands of beautiful nikau palms along sections of the track. The only palm species native to mainland New Zealand, it Above: One of the many wind turbines on the ranges. Below left: The new road to Palmerston North and the bridge over the Manawatu River.

40 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294

is the most southerly growing palm in the world. It can grow up to 15 metres tall, and produces berries that are a favourite food of the kereru. It provided building materials, a food source and was used as a laxative. (Te Apiti-Manawatu Gorge Plants) Whatonga the Explorer Perhaps the most stunning sight was the 6.2 metres high, 1,5 metres wide, 1.2 metres deep steel statue of Whataonga. He was one of the three chiefs on board the Kurahaupo Waka which journeyed across the Pacific to New Zealand in the 12th Century. He is the Tipuna for the local Rangitane iwi. Whatonga was based in Cape Kidnappers but continued exploring by sailing up the West Coast to the mouth of the Manawatu River. The predominant mangopare or hammerhead shark pattern makes this a breath-taking monument and creates an amazing atmosphere all its own high in the reserve. This is a mustsee sculpture!! (Te Apiti-Manawatu Gorge Maori History)

- 2022

Homeward Bound It was one of those winter excursions where more than once the wind kicked up, the temperature dropped and many of us put on extra gear. Then later on, it warmed up again and the gear was stuffed back in our packs. Eventually the two parties met just after half-way and enjoyed lunch together. Being such a short distance from Palmerston North meant that there were lots of others enjoying the walk that day as well. We continued to the Ashhurst end and waited for the other group to finish their journey. There was another informative whare with impressive displays of Maori history and Te Apiti events over the years. The new Manawatu-Tararua Highway was visible west of Woodville cutting through below the Saddle Road and exiting onto a bridge at the Ashhurst end. It certainly looked a better option than the present one. We jumped back in the van and Camp Mother Jude did another one of her famous head counts and we headed back to Havelock North.

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CONTENTS for previous 15 issues AUGUST 293 2022

2 Heatrub 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: My Favourite Walk: The Grampian Track for those looking for a little adventure 10 New Zealand Walk: To Mordor, Emyn Muiland and Mount Doom 14 New Zealand Walk: Pukawa to Omori Track 15 Queen Charlotte Track 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 Overseas Walks; Britain on foot: Short strolls, long hikes 20 New Zealand Walks: York Road Loop Track -walking over an old railway line 24 Overseas Walks: See Victoria on two feet 27 New Zealand Walk: Rimutaka Trig Trail Te Ara Tirohanga 28 New Zealand Walks: Enjoyable walking on and around Volcanic fields in Auckland 32 Walkworth Walks turn lucky 13 36 Auckland Walks: Five ideas for a winter family walk 38 Push Play compaign re-launched 40 Need2Know: FAQ about a distress beacon 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52Taupo Marathon

JULY 292 2022

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Tantalizing Taranaki 10 New Zealand Walk: Autumn walks in McClaren Falls Park 13 New Zealand Guided Walks: Not all who wander are lost 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walking Access Commission: Call to protect access on stewardship land 21 Tour: Walk the Queen Charlotte Track staying on the ship Sweet Georgia 22 New Zealand Walks: Oxford Forest walking tracks 24 My Favourite Walk: Coopers Creek to Ryde Falls 26 Overseas Walks: Walking through history in Ieland 33 Books: I will make you Passionate about Exercise - Build your Immunity Day by Day - Grape Expectations 34 High Achiever : Celia Wade -Brown the outdoor explorer 36 New Zealand Walk/Cycle Trail: River Road to Clive over a great Hawkes Bay landscape 40 Need to Know: How to use a distress beacon 42 Shared Pathway: Lake Dinstan Cycle Trail awarded Great Ride status 44 High Achiever: Bridging the gaps up in the North 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals

JUNE 291 2022

2 Queen Charlotte Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: The Abel Tasman Coastal Track - has experiences to suit you 11 New Zealand Walk: Dashing Rocks Walkway with stunning views of the bay 12 Australian Walk: Mossman Gorge in a thriving rainforest 14 News: Te Araroa needs more volunteers 14 Need 2 know: Regular walking will make you fit and healthy 17 New Zealand Walk: Wanaka Lavender Farm walk 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly

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Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walks: From Capital to Kapiti and on to Castlecliff 22 News: Tracks to be built by Transmission Gully Project 24 Great Walks: The Kepler Track - a wilderness adventure above the clouds 30 New Zealand Walk: Hatea Loop Walkway links town with Pohe Island 34 New Zealand Walks: Three scenic tracks reopened in Waitakere Ranges 35 New Zealand Walks: Gibbons, Pararaha Valley Track and Muir Track 36 New Zealand Walks: Ashburton to Hakatere River Lake Hood trails 38 New Zealand Walks: Six of the best walks for bird spotting around Auckland 40 New Zealand Walk: Seaview Gardens Reserve 38 Australian Walk: Wiradjuri Trail - a track that winds around Wagga Wagga 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals

MAY 290 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Waikanae Estuary, lagoon and river walk 11 New Zealand Walk: Hamilton Lake Walkway a popular walking route 12 New Zealand Walk: Breathtaking views on Mt Fyffe adventure 15 New Zealand Walks: Walks and hikes in the Mt Fyffe/Seaward Kaikoura Range 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walks: Turning Points 22 New Zealand Walks: Routeburn Track an ultimate alpine adventure 28 Australian Walks: Five great walks in Australia 31 My Favourite Walks: Fascinating walks around Golden Bay and beyond 36 New Zealand Guided Walks: Going guided on the Paparoa Trail 37 New Zealand Walks: Put on your walking shoes and hit the trails 41 Subscription page 42 Little feet walk the length of New Zealand 44 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 ECHO Walking Festival

APRIL 289 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Autumn ambles at the end of the golden weather 10 New Zealand Walk: Mirror Lakes world famous for beauty 12 Need2Know: DOC’S top five wildlife photography tips 14 New Zealand Walk: Spinnaker Lookout Walk 15 New Zealand Walk: Take a walk along Waiheke Island’s Art Tail 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 My Favourite Walk: Walks: Walking amongst the rock pillars of the Rock and Pillar Conservation Area 24 New Zealand Walks: Hikes and Walks out East 29 New Zealand Walk: Wairoa River Walk and Cycleway 30 New Zealand Walk : Walking through an Arboreal Ark 36 New Zealand Walk: An arboretum wau ot there? 37 New Zealand Walks: Put on your walking shoes and hit the trails 40 New Zealand Walk: The Greytown Trail an idyllic 5km walk 44 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets

52 ECHO Walking Festival

MARCH 288 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: St James Walkway - through pastoral land, beech forest and sub-alpine regions 13 New Zealand Walk: Five days four nights on the St James Walkway 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 Auckland Walks: Five half-day hikes around Auckland 20 My Favourite Walk: Walking around Mangere Mountain Domain 25 New Zealand Walk: Morrinsville River Walk through mature trees 26 Triple peaks 2022 - Your Summer getaway event 29 My Favourite Walk: Taking time again on Tongariro 29 New Zealand Walk: Taranaki Falls Walk with excellent mountain views 9 Subscription page 30 New Zealand Walks: Great Barrier Island Aotea Track for a bit of a challenge 35 New Zealand Short Walk: Scenic reserve for an easy short walk 36 New Zealand Walk: Discover Pelorus Sound and historic Nydia Track 42 Training: Training programme to walk a marathon 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Wilderness Guides

FEBRUARY 287 2022

2 Goldfields 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: White sand, green forest, brown kiwi - an island holiday like nowhere else 9 Subscription page 10 New Zealand Walks: Footprints of Toi walk, Whakatane, Bay of Plenty 12 New Zealand Walks: Nga Tapuwae o Toi Walkway 14 New Zealand Walk: Awapikopiko Reserve for a picnic and a short walk 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 High Achievers: The women that champion outdoor access 20 Shared Trails: Dunstan Trail links Cromwell with Clyde 24 New Zealand Walks: Waihi Beach to Houmanga Bay 29 New Zealand Walks: Four short walks from Waihi Beach 30 New Zealand Walks: Nowell’s Lakes Walkway where you will enjoy nature 35 Need2Know: Don’t go missing, go hiking 36 Australian Walk: Lake Hart - walking on salt 38 New Zealand Walk: Ongaonga Village - steeped in history 40 New Zealand Walks: Hacket Track a feature in Mt Richmond Forest park 43 Index of previous 14 issues 44 Manawatu Striders Super Seven Series 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Wilderness Guides

JANUARY 286 2022

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 News: YHA closes 11 hostels 6 Te Araroa Trail: Te Araroa walkers get creative to complete trail journey 7 New Zealand Walks: Walking through old forest in Whirinaki 13 New Zealand Walks: Ohakune walks for all fitness types 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 New Zealand Walks: Back to the 70-Mile Bush 22 New Zealand Walk: A walk to see fascinating geology in the

Far North 24 Oversesas tours: Bike, boat and barge new tours in France 26 New Zealand Walk: Beyond Motu Falls - a magic breathing and conservation space 32 New Zealand Walks: A feast of waterfall walks in the Bay of Plenty 36 Directory of Walking Groups 40 New Zealand Walks: Ohakune Old Coach Road steeped in history 42 News: West Coast commits to stronger focus on walkers 43 Index of previous 14 issues 44 Manawatu Striders Super Seven Series 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals

DECEMBER 285 2021

2 Goldfields Cavalade 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Paparoa Trail: with alpine tops, limestone karst landscapes and thriving rain forests 13 New Zealand Walk: More to Explore in Kerikeri 14 New Zealand Walks: Three interesting walks in Egmont National Park 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 22 High Achiever: Regeneration the Bradley way 24 New Zealand Walk: Beehive Creek a zig zag through creek walk 26 New Zealand Walks: Summer in the South 29 New Zealand Walks: A chance to walk throughout New Zealand 30 High Achiever: Bringing the fun by going to work with an e-bike 30 New Zealand Walk: Wenderholm Regional Park walks for a workout 32 New Zealand Walk: Lighthouse popular with photographers 33 New Zealand Walk: Waipapa Point Coastal walk - for seabirds and marine mammals 34 Directory of Walking Groups 38 New Zealand Walks: 10 beautiful walks in Queenstown 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals

NOVEMBER 284 2021

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Five exhilarating walks in the Tongariro/Kaimanawa area 9 High Achiever: Ronnie gets back on the bike at age 72 10 New Zealand Walk: A Winter beach walk south of Waitarere 12 New Zealand Walk: The Pakihi Track for total seclusion 18 High Achievers: Three women take up 1000km challenge 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 22 High Achiever: Q&A with accommodation provider and trail legend Bill Trolove 24 High Achievers: Unlikely couple meet and live their dream 27 Need2Know: New Pocket Maps app helps walkers explore 28 New Zealand Walk: Waterfalls a feature of Upper Nihotupu Dam Walk 33 New Zealand Walk: Plans for City to Sea pathway taking shape 34 Need2Know: Everyday planning for everyday people 36 Subscription page 37 My Favourite Walks: A day tramp in Akaroa - Curry Track/Purple Peak Track 40 Event: New direction for the Front Runner Hoka Christchurch Marathon 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours

48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Goldfields Cavalcade

OCTOBER 283 2021

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Queen Charlotte Track - It’s time to awaken your adventurous soul 10 New Zealand Walk: Port Ligar a truly unique experience 14 New Zealand Walk: Nikau palms and sea stacks at Point Elizabeth 16 Walking Access Commission: Trust to develop and support walking and cycling trails 17 New Zealand Walks: Over 50 walks in this year’s Waiheke Walking Festival 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 22 Event: Tois! Whakatane’s stunning trail challenge 24 Need2Know: The faster you walk, the better for long term health especially as you age 26 New Zealand Walks: Cobb Vally region - one of the most interesting in the country for trampers and naturalists 32 New Zealand Walks: Papamoa’s two great recreational areas 36 Subscription page 37 Covid-19: What you can and connot do in Level 3 37 Book: Cheers Mate! Walkabout in Australia 38 New Zealand Walk: Pukeiti - a garden of national significance 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Goldfields Cavalcade

SEPTEMBER 282 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Great Walk: Great Walks myth busting 14 New Zealand Wlks: The best of Opotiki: 5 easy walks in the eastern Bay of Plenty 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 22 New Zealand Walk: Sea lionsand seals an attraction at Sandfly Bay. 24 Subscription page 25 Need2Know: Indoor pathways improve people’s mental wellbeing 26 Australian Walks; Murray River Safari the latest edition to Australian Wildlife Journeys 29 Banks Track 30 New Zealand Walk: Grovetown Lagoon - a great conservation effort in Marlborough 32 Overseas Walk: Explore Rarotonga’s mountainous interior 34 New Zealand Walk: Withering Heights -Tawarau Conservation area, King Country 39 Need2Know: New lookout for Bennetts Bay now open 40 High Achievers: Thames Hospital staff scrub in Hauraki Ranges 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo events

AUGUST 281 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: Bannockburn Sluicings NZ’s own ‘wild west’ 8 New Zealand Walk: Cable Bay Walkway for coastal views 11 New Zealand Walk/Bike: Walking and biking around Napier 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walk: Hooker Valley Track offers awe inspiring landscapes 23 Need2Know: Asking politely will protect outdoor acccess for others 24 Subscription page 25 Need2Know: Locked gates over unformed legal roads 25 Need 2Know: Walking as a sport in 1878

26 My Favourite Walk: Taking time on the Tongariro 28 Te Araroa : Q&A withTe Araroa walker and Wellington trustee John Craig 29 Banks Track 30 New Zealand Walk: Ghosts of the past: Historic trails across the Kaimai-Mamaku Park 33 Shared Pathway: Unique boardway opened in Waitara 37 My Favourite Walk: Three tramps in the Ruahine Forest Park 40 Australian Walks: Footing it in Tassie 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo events

JULY 280 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: Comarderie on the Whareama Coastal Walk 12 Event: Walkers see the new Manawatu Tararua Highway taking shape 14 New Zealand Walk: Rotokawa Scenic Reserve - now a predator free area 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walk: Fantail Falls an easy West Coast walk 24 Virtual field trip for school children showcases Te Araroa 24 My Favourite Walk: Linderman Loop - in the historic Kaimais 28 Around the Clubs: Clubs find advantage in sharing great walks 30 New Zealand Cycle Tour: Best Dam cycling trip in the world - Busting the 315km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru 38 Australian Walks: Alice Springs for gorges, water holes and red desert landscapes 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo event

JUNE 279 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 4 Walk Talk 6 New Zealand Walk: Ship Cove walks in old swamp forests 8 New Zealand Walk: Muruwai Walk in Coromandel 10 New Zealand Walks: Somes Island - The MIQ experience 149 years ago11 New Zealand Walk: Somes Island Track 12 My Favourite Walk: Banks Peninsula Track - an unique scenic 3 day trip 14 Need2Know: Egmont National Park tracks upgraded 16 High Achiever: Havelock man’s marathon dream of link to Picton 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 Australian Walks: Ten best walks and hikes in Tasmania 24 New Zealand Walk: Gabriels Gully interpretation walk 26 Te Araroa Trail: Walking the Te Araroa Trail as a hotographer and film maker 30 New Zealand Walk: Mt Taranaki summit climb -not for the faint hearted 35 New Zealand Walk: Palliser Vineyard Walk 36 Directory of New Zealand Walking Groups 40 Subscription page 41 Index of previous 14 issues 42 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 ECHO Walking Festival 52 Taupo Marathon

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

EVENT

. Bay of Islands Walking Weekend An explosive combination of sailing, kayaking, walking, wining and dining! By Steph Godsiff

Northland has some fine produce and wines. As we are showcasing the best walking in the Bay of Islands it seems appropriate to bring our wonderful local produce and wine into the walks. We have extended the weekend to four days, and have increased our foodie experiences. We have three fantastic vineyard walks all with the most incredible views of the Bay of Islands. Our newest addditon is sailing across to the exclusive Landing Vineyard, aboard the R Tucker Above: A birds eye view over Omata Estate Vineyard. Below left: Wine tasting at Omata Estate Vineyard.

42 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294

- 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

EVENT

Thompson sailing ship. The journey across the Bay gives you time to start thinking what the Bay of Islands used to look like with such beautiful boats. Arrive at Marsden Cross, New Zealand’s first planned European settlement where Māori and Europeans lived side by side. NZ’s very first Christmas Day was celebrated at Marsden Cross in 1814. Walking to “The Landing” , over some of their wetland area and historical sites before arriving at “The Boathouse” for a two course lunch with wine tasting of course! “The Landing” recently on TV, as part of the series “ Lap of Luxury”. Its a total treat of a day! Paroa Bay Vineyard is a stunning family-owned boutique vineyard with traditional handmade, sustainable wines, and to top it off they have Sage Restaurant which is perched high above the idyllic Bay of Islands for a bird’s eye view. The 10km walk is over private land, includes panoramic views of the Bay of Islands, and includes in it Kahuwera Pā, a pā that features strongly in the history of the Bay of Islands. This walk has a couple of options – you can walk in the afternoon and enjoy a three course meal, or walk in the morning and have platters in the afternoon. All accompanied with a glass of their wine. Omata Estate Vineyard has been on the walks programme since the weekend began eight years ago, and is always popular – a decent walk via boardwalks, native bush and the inlet. Omata Estate is a boutique vineyard situated in a stunning location on a sheltered hilltop with wonderwww.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Above left: On the Zane Grey Paddles and PlattersWalk. Above right: Taking in the view on the Paroa Bay Walk.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

EVENT

Bay of Islands Walking Weekend ful views across the vines to the bay. Their lovely wooden restaurant, brick paths, terraced and sunny garden are reminiscent of an old French vineyard, which creates a perfect atmosphere to sit back, relax with a gourmet platter or delicious wood fired pizza, and partake in the wine tasting on offer. The beauty of this walk is there are several ways to get there – you can do a 9km or 3km walk, and there is an option for non-walkers joining the groups. Venturing across to Waitangi and Paihia on the Bay Belle ferry. On Friday we take the ferry across to Waitangi and hop onto the Haruru Falls track, a picturesque walk along the historic Waitangi River up to Haruru Falls, then kayak back down the river. The kayak is a relaxing paddle down

44 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294

the sheltered waters of the river to the bridge. Experience the amazing unique horseshoe shaped Haruru Waterfall and paddle through the fascinating mangrove forest. Finishing off at Zane Grey’s Restaurant and Bar situated out over the water in Paihia for shared platters and a cold drink. Sunday you can finish off the weekend with a morning walk in Paihia through native bush to panoramic views of the Bay. Lunch is in Charlotte’s Kitchen perched right on the end of the wharf in Paihia it is the perfect place to round off the weekend. And because it is in Russell and Russell is all about the people who live there that make it the charming welcoming town it is – we have a “Sunrise meet the locals walk”, this includes coffee, tea and a cooked breakfast as

- 2022

you enjoy the sunrise from a locals home. From there you set off on the locals favourite tracks to explore. The Bay of Islands Walking Weekend also brings everyone together on the Saturday night with a lovely dinner at the HQ which is the local bowling club. Whether you come by yourself or with a group of friends this evening always has everyone laughing and chatting as we rehash the past two days walking events and hand out plenty of spot prizes! www.boiwalkingweekend.co.nz Above left: On the Paroa Bay Walk. Above right: At the Marsden Cross memorial. Below left: Aboard the R Tucker Thompson a tall ship. Below right: Inside the cafe at Omata Estate Kitchen.

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Coming Events

NEW ZEALAND AUGUST 2022

6 Meridian Hydro Half Marathon, Te Anau 6 Taupō Marathon, Taupo 6 Mitre 10 Te Anau 10km, Manapouri 6 Hamilton City Hawks Sweeney Cup, Hamilton 6 Dovedale Hill Race, Wakefield 7 South Island Half Marathon, Lake Hood, Ashburton 7 Summit Forests Kaitaia Trail Run/ Walk, Kaitaia 14 Mukamuka & Mega Munter, Catchpool Visitor Centre, Rimukaka Forest Park 14 XTERRA Auckland: Waiuku Forest, Auckland 14 Woodbourne Half Marathon, Blenheim 20 Sprig & Fern 10K: Brightwater 20 Queenstown Vertical Challenge, Queenstown 21 Craters Trail Run, Taupo 21 Seddon School Tussock Run, Seddon 21 Wild Auckland: Tawharanui 24 The Great Naseby Water Race Ultramarathon, Nasby 27 Mount Maunganui Half Marathon Mount Maunganui 27 Fullers Great Sights Bay of Islands Beast, Haruru, Northland 27 The Dun Run, Nelson 28 Heart and Sole Women’s Run Series #3, Papamoa

SEPTEMBER 2022

3 Motueka to Mapua Relay, Tasman District 4 North Shore Marathon, Milford, Auckland 10 Kaikoura Whale Run, Kaikoura 10 Kinloch Off Road Challenge, Taupo 10 Marton to Wanganui Relay or Solo

Ultramarathon, Marton 11 Run Auckland: Henderson Park, Auckland 11 Emerson’s Dunedin Marathon, Dunedin 11 Whangarei Run/Walk Festival, Whangarei 17 58th Rotorua Marathon, Rotorua 17 Race Tekapo, Lake Tekapo 17 Governors Bay to Lyttelton Scenic Road Race, Governors Bay 17 Hallertau Riverhead Rampage, Auckland 17 Queen Charlotte Relay, Picton to Havelock 18 Shoe Science Tauranga Marathon, Tauranga 18 Gisborne Herald Quarter Marathon, Gisborne 18 Hutt Marathon, Petone 18 Sandy Point Classic, Invercargill 18 The Honest 10 Fun Run, Wellington 24 Blue Lake 24 Hour Challenge, Rotorua

Please note that because of Covid-19 some events advertised in New Zealand may be rescheduled, postponed or cancelled. Kai Iwi Lakes, Northland 9 Wairarapa Country Marathon, Masterton 9 Southland Festival of Running, Invercargill 13-16 Bay of Islands Walking Weekend, Russell 15 Cross Recreation Centre Balclutha Half Marathon, Balclutha 15 Taupō Ultramarathon, Taupo 15 Whitianga Marathon, Whitianga 16 Ronhill Huntly Half Marathon, Huntly 16 Cambridge Half Marathon, Cam-

OCTOBER 2022

1 Whangamata Run/Walk Festival, Whangamata 1 Rakiura Challenge Trail Run, Horseshoe Bay to Oban 1 Trek the Forest, Rotorua 1 Aoraki Mt Cook Marathon, Half Marathon, 10K and 5K, Mt Cook Village 2 4 Paws Marathon, Bottle Lake Forerst, Christchurch 2 Wild Auckland: Te Ārai, Auckland 2 Harcourts Cooper & Co Devonport Half Marathon, Auckland 8 Sun to Surf Run & Walk, Ohope 8 Abel Tasman Coastal Classic Trail Run, Kaiteretere 8 Marina 2 Marina, Picton 8 Taupō Great Lake Relay, Taupo 8 Silverstream Spin, Dunedin 9 3 Lakes Trail Run, Taharoa Domain,

4 4 4 4 4 4

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Upper body workout while walking Burn 40% more calories Less impact on joints Release tension in neck and shoulders Improve posture and breathing Fun to do, easy to learn, for all ages

Classes in Greater Auckland, Hamilton, Tauranga, Whakatane, Hawkes Bay, New Plymouth, Wellington, Kapiti and Christchurch

2.4km, 5km, 10km, 16km, 21.1km, & 42.2km Sunday 2nd October 2022, Christchurch, NZ

www.4pawsmarathon.co.nz www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

Coming Events

bridge 16 Crater Rim Ultra 2022, Christchurch 16 Harcourts Cooper & Co Run Orewa, Orewa 16 Ronhill Huntly Half Marathon, Huntly 16 The Moa Experience, Papamoa 22 Pirongia Trail Run, Pirongia

22 Kaikoura Mountains to the Sea, Kaikoura 22 Twizel Hard Labour Weekend, Ohau Station, Canterbury 23 Cromwell Half Marathon, Cromwell 23 Tophouse Trails, Nelson Lakes 30 Ashhurst 2 Esplanade Half Mara-

Please note that because of Covid-19 some events advertised in New Zealand may be rescheduled, postponed or cancelled. thon & Fun Run, Palmerston North 30 Auckland Marathon, Auckland

NOVEMBER 2022

5 Underground Overground Trail Adventure, Waitomo Caves 5-6 Rotorua Walking Festival, Rotorua 10-20 Waiheke Walking Festival, Waiheke Island

APRIL 2023

16 Christchurch Marathon, Christchurch

AUSTRALIA AUGUST 2022

Saturday 10 September 2022

WarkworthWalks W A L K S

W O R T H

D O I N G

Friday-Sunday 4-6 Nov 2022

14 Sun-Herald City 2 Sirf 14km, Sydney, NSW 27-28 Halls Gap Wonderland Run, Halls Gap, Vic 28 Christmas Island Marathon,, Half Marathon, 5km & 2km, Christmas Island 27-28 Wonderland Run, 60kms, Halls Gap, Vic 28 De Castelle Run, Melbourne, Vic 28 Dubbo Stampede, Dubbo, NSW

SEPTEMBER 2022

11 Sandy Point Half Marathon, Brighton, Vic 11 Coffs Harbour Running Festival, Coffs Harbour, NSW 17 100km Surf Coast Century, Anglesea, Vic

OCTOBER 2022

2 Beach to Brother,Marathon, Half Marathom, 10km & 5km, Port Macquarie, NSW 16 Harvest Run, 13.5km & 5km, Yarra Valley SA

NOVEMBER 2022

6 The Canberra Times Fun Run, Half Marathon, 10km & 5km, Canberra, ACT

FEBRUARY 2023

19 Carmans Fun Run, Brighton, Vic

www.warkworthwalks.co.nz

APRIL 2023

12 fascinating guided trails through the unique & beautiful surrounds of Mahurangi, Kawau, Warkworth & Matakana, including otherwise inaccessible areas & local hospitality. Featuring new & updated walks.

REST OF WORLD

46 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294

- 2022

23 Run Army 2023, Brisbane Qld

AUGUST 2022

6-7 IML Walking Festival, Jurbarbas Lithuania www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Coming Events

12-14 IML Walking Festival,Vaasa, Finland 27-28 IML Walking Festival, Verdal, Norway

SEPTEMBER 2022

10-11 IML Walking Festival, Arenzano, Italy 16-18 IML Walking Festival, Seefeld, Austria 24-25 IML Walking Festival, Brno, Czeck, Republic

OCTOBER 2022

21 IML Walking Festival, Arlington, USA 28-29 IML Walking Festival, Wonju, South Korea

NOVEMBER 2023

3-5 IML Walking Festival, Higasimatsuyama, Japan 11-12 IML Walking Festival, Taipei, Tiawan 19-19 IML Walking Festival, Jogjakarta,

1-2 IML Walking Festival, Fulda, Germany 6-9 IML Walking Festival, Marbella, Spain 15-16 IML Walking Festival, Arlington, USA 29-30 IML Walking Festival, Wonju, South Korea

NOVEMBER 2022

4-6 IML Walking Festival, Higasimatsuyama, Japan 12-13 IML Walking Festival, Taipei, Tiawan 19-20 IML Walking Festival, Yogyakarta, Indonesia

JULY 2023

18--21 IML Walking Festival, Nijmegen, Netherlands

AUGUST 2023

5-6 IML Walking Festival, Kaunas, Lithuania 1-13 IML Walking Festival,Vaasa, Finland

SEPTEMBER 2023

9-10 IML Walking Festival, Arenzano, Italy 15-17 IML Walking Festival, Seefeld, Austria 23-24 IML Walking Festival, Brno, Czeck, Republic 30 - 1 IML Walking Festival, Fulda, Germany

5-6 NOVEMBER 2022

OCTOBER 2023

5-7 IML Walking Festival, Marbella, Spain

Recharge, Reconnect And Make A Difference.

Oxfam Aotearoa invites you and three mates to head to Taranaki and take on the greatest team endurance challenge in Aotearoa. In March 2023, your team of four will walk 50km (in under 18 hours) or 100km (in under 36 hours) all starting and finishing together. Thousands of Kiwis will come together to challenge themselves and challenge the injustice that keeps people trapped in poverty. This is the perfect event to involve your whānau and friends and experience Aotearoa as you never have before. Ready to pack your bags and join us on an adventure?

MARCH 2023 | NEW PLYMOUTH | OXFAMTRAILWALKER.ORG.NZ Early bird pricing ends 31 August - Register today!

You can now view and enjoy the latest issue of

Walking New Zealand

magazine online for $2.50 at

http://www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

OVERSEAS WALKING TOURS

GISBORNE

GREAT COUNTRY BREAKS NORTHLAND

Kiwi on the Camino by Vivianne Flintoff 900kms along an ancient pilgrimage trail in Northern Spain

WAIRARAPA

Whareama Coastal Walk

Available from independent book sellers or directly from author E-mail : vivianneflintoffbooks@gmail.com

Fully catered 2 Day Walking Adventure over private farmland with isolated Wairarapa coastline views.

Phone (06) 372 3722

www.whareamawalk.co.nz

Web: http://www.vivianneflintoffbooks.com/

HAWKES BAY

Country Breaks

the place to promote for more customers contact Frank Goldingham walkingnz@xtra.co.nz 0800-925-546 (walking) HAWKES BAY

SPECIAL OFFER for all Walking NZ readers

FREE E-BIKE HIRE Cycling the Hawke’s Bay Trails is the closest you can get to a European cycling holiday without travelling overseas. You will see valleys of vines, winding rivers, estuary wetlands and the majestic coastline beside the turquoise-blue Pacific Ocean. Experience our tracks over 2, 3 or 4 days cycling flat, easy trails knowing you are never more than 30 minutes away from your next stop at a winery restaurant, cellar door or fresh fruit stall!

for group bookings* on all multiday cycling tours Save up to $160pp! *Group - min of 4ppl, on tours prior to 24 December 2021.

Cycle Hawke’s Bay - the best trails, food & wine!

Talk to us today p: 06 835 9030 | Ahuriri, Napier | info@takarotrails.co.nz

You can now view and enjoy the latest issue of Walking New Zealand magazine online for only $2.50 at http://www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

48 NewNew Zealand, issue no issue 293 - 2022 48Walking Walking Zealand, no 294 - 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

ROTORUA

NEW ZEALAND WALKS

GREAT COUNTRY BREAKS NELSON * Heaphy Track * Abel Tasman * Cobb Valley * Old Ghost Road

ROTORUA

‘Carry less, enjoy more’ Come explore with us! www.kahurangiwalks.co.nz

Phone 03 391 4120 CANTERBURY

MARLBOROUGH

BOOKS

Price

$40

Available at some Northland and North Shore Bookshops or contact Jean at: goldschmidt@farmside.co.nz

Your favourite walk could win you a free subscription

You can also post an article to Walking New Zealand, Freepost 78863, P O Box 1922, Palmerston North, or fax 06-358-6864. If sending a photo by email please make sure photos are in high resolution.

Our email address is: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz. Please put “My Favourite Walk” in the subject line and include your name and postal address.

Walking New Zealand, issueissue no 294 - 2022 Walking New Zealand, no 293 - 2022 49 49

SOUTHLAND

GREAT COUNTRY BREAKS

PORTABLE LOCATOR BEACONS PLB

STAY SAFE IN THE OUTDOORS T Take a locator beacon with you when you are hunting, y h hiking or working anywhere re remote and make sure you w will be rescued quickly

MACKENZIE/South Canterbury

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A unique four days walk or mountain bike ride in idyllic South Canterbury

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Phone 03-685-4848 Email: info@walkfourpeaks.co.nz

* Freedom $245 * Prime $545 * Guided $1695

$15 - 1 day $30 - 3 days $40 - 7 days

$30 for every week after your ﬁrst week of hire

Locator Beacons New Zealand 03 226 6341 or 027 412 2925

www.locatorbeacons.co.nz

WE-9025668AA

BOOKS

STEWART ISLAND

Kiwi on the Camino by Vivianne Flintoff 900kms along an ancient pilgrimage trail in Northern Spain

Please tell our advertisers you saw it in Walking New Zealand magazine.

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NORTH CANTERBURY

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Check our availability calendar online www.islandhillsstation.com 50 Walking NewNew Zealand, issue noissue 293- 2022 50 Walking Zealand, no 294

- 2022

You can now view back issues of Walking New Zealand magazine,

two issues back from the latest, FREE at : http://issuu.com/walkingnewzealand. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

PAK - A - ROO

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Colours: Red, Navy, Dark Olive, Brown Sizes XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL Weight approximately 800gms

Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

52 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294

- 2022

294 SEPTEMBER 2022

Articles inside

My Favourite Walk: Tramping Te Apiti - the

New Zealand Walks: Waka, Wars, Wines and Walks

Need2Know: Mahana Lodge -where a warm welcome awaits

Event: Waiheke Walking Festival with walks for

Australian Walks: Norfolk Island for all year round walking and hiking

Need2Know: May walking bring us together

My Favourite Walk: Hiking the Heaphy Track in

New Zealand Walk: Lake Alta Track - a climb to a

Australian Walks: Norfolk Island 360 degrees of