Twist Travel Magazine Issue #7

ISSUE 007

WORLD'S SMALLEST CITY SPOTLIGHT ON JAPAN TRAVEL WITH FOOD ALLERGIES BEST DUDE RANCHES FALL WHISKEY COCKTAILS WELLNESS RETREATS

editors' note Hello, fall! We are so thrilled you are here! Summer is fun, but if we're being honest, autumn is really our favorite time of year. When we put together this issue, we thought about how this season represents getting back on track and setting new routines. So while the kids are adjusting to new teachers, new schools, or maybe even a new neighborhood or city, we invite you to turn your thoughts to self-care and wellness.

We know the family calendar always fills up quickly, but it's important to remember that, in between driving the kids to and from karate, piano or soccer, you remember to put you on the calendar. Carving out time for yourself, your spouse and friends should be a top priority, and fall is a great time of year to start a new class and set some new goals before the holidays hit.

And of course, autumn represents a new travel season, so buckle up! We're taking you from the hippest dude ranches to the colorful world of Japan. Our 'She Gets Around' feature is where you'll meet the charming Julianna, an 11-year-old with Down syndrome. Her mom shares fun travel stories with us, as well as the challenges faced when traveling with a child with special needs, all the while reminding us of the beautiful benefits of diversity.

We hope you find this issue to be inspiring, because it's just packed with beautiful stories and excellent advice.

We're very proud of it and we hope you enjoy it!

ANDREA FELLMAN AND KERYN MEANS EDITORS-IN-CHIEF

Contributors

Brianne Manz

Amie O'Shaughnessy

Amy Whitley

ciaobambino.com IG @ciaobambinotravel

pitstopsforkids.com IG @amywhitleytravels

annajulienphotography.com IG @annajulienphotography

 strollerinthecity.com IG @strollerinthecity

Carrie Beth Posener

Claudia Laroye

Desiree Miller

Genevieve Buckmiller

themagnoliamamas.com IG @themagnoliamamas

thetravellingmom.ca IG @thetravellingmom

DesMiller.com IG @ SavvyinSanFran

walkingontravels.com IG @walkingontravels

Jane Ko

Jen Giambalvo

Kara Williams

Karilyn Owens

atasteofkoko.com @atasteofkoko

themagnoliamamas.com IG @themagnoliamamas

thevacationgals.com IG @thevacationgals

nobackhome.com IG @nobackhome

Kathleen M. Basi

Katie Bodell

Katja Gaskell

Mary Penafiel Solio

kathleenbasi.com IG @ kathleenbasi

Trekaroo.com IG @trekaroo

globetotting.com IG @globetotting

theworldisabook.com IG@worldisabook

Anna Julien

Issue No. 7

Publishers: Keryn Means and Andrea Fellman

Nadia Carriere

Rachael Hutchings

Rob Taylor

lunasoulcollective.com IG @nadiacarriere

lafujimama.com IG @lafujimama

2traveldads.com IG @2traveldads

Editors-in-Chief: Keryn Means and Andrea Fellman Managing Editor: Amy Whitley Contributing Editors: Claudia Laroye and Katja Gaskell Editorial Assistant: Anna Julien Designer: Keryn Means Cover Photo: Twenty20.com

Susan Lanier-Graham

Tamara Gruber

REX

wanderwithwonder.com IG @wanderwithwonder

we3travel.com IG @we3travel

twisttravelmag.com IG @twisttravelmag

For editorial inquiries, please contact: editorial@twisttravelmag.com Sales Offices: Washington, D.C. Barcelona, Spain

Do the one thing you think you cannot do.

Fail at it. Try again.

Do better the second time. The only people who never tumble are those who never mount the high wire.

For advertising inquiries, please contact: sales@twisttravelmag.com Please send all general questions and inquiries to hello@twisttravelmag.com.

Find us on the web at www.twisttravelmag.com COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Twist Travel Magazine is published by Twist Travel Company LLC. ©2018 Twist Travel Company LLC. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission of the publisher. Digital issue may contain affiliate links.

- Oprah

WWW.TWISTTRAVELMAG.COM

P. 14 AUTUMN HARVEST RECIPES Colorful root veggies, crisp apples and warm comfort food is here, and what better way to wash it all down than with a little whiskey

Autumn Travel Inspiration 5 | THE TWIST

30 | AUSTIN: FOODIE FAVS

Autumn is a time of seasonal renewal. Join us in resetting, recharging and re-energizing.

Join a seasoned food blogger for a culinary tour of Texas' prime food-lovers destination.

10 | FALL FASHION

34 | STYLE FOR GOOD

Kick your travel style up a notch with our fall fashion favorites, trends and colors.

Time to make your dollars count and look good doing it by shopping fair trade brands.

17 | FOOD ALLERGIES + TRAVEL

38 | SADDLE UP LADIES!

Gain perspective from a mom of a child with severe food allergies, and learn how you can make a difference.

Ready to get your cowgirl on? Discover why North American dude ranches have won us over.

20 | PROVIDENCE

43 | TRAVEL FOR WELLNESS

Size doesn't mean a thing to this creative city that packs a big punch in the smallest state in America.

Time to take care of you! Why a wellness retreat might be just what you need this autumn.

22 | SHE GETS AROUND:

48 | TWIST FAVORITES: WELLNESS RESORTS

Traveling with a child with Down Syndrome does not slow this family down.

From the Colorado Rockies to Mexico, our curated list of wellness resorts will leave lasting impact.

25 | DURBY: THE WORLD'S SMALLEST CITY

55 | SPOTLIGHT ON JAPAN

This Belgian city is more than just a curiosity; see all it has to offer...it's more than you might think!

Planning a trip to Japan might seem daunting, but not with this essential guide! Tokyo, Kyoto, and beyond.

4 | TWIST

the

A QUICK GUIDE TO THE SEASON

Fall is all about back to school for kids, but for adults, it's the perfect time to get back to YOU. As much as we all love the lazy days of summer, getting back on track in the fall is really invigorating. Fall is an inspiring time of year filled with all sorts of potential and possibilities. You've just been given a clean slate; ask yourself what you want to fill it with this season.

TWIST | 5

Seasonal Favorites

BY GENEVIEVE BUCKMILLER • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM FEEL GOOD FOR FALL! SURROUND YOURSELF WITH THESE COMFORT ITEMS AS THE TEMPERATURE DIPS AND THE NEED FOR COZINESS RAMPS UP. THE FOCUS THIS SEASON IS WELLNESS, WHETHER THAT PERTAINS TO WHAT YOU EAT, WHAT’S AROUND YOU, OR WHERE YOU GO. HERE ARE A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS WITH WELLNESS IN MIND.

Erin Condren Wellness Log/Wellness Planner Amazon.com • $12.99 It's hard to make excuses when you are tracking your progress and seeing results. This planner is the perfect way to stick to your routine and reach your health goals.

Hand-Embroidered State and City Pillows catstudio.com • $34.99 Perhaps the perfect reminder of a favorite trip or display of home state pride, these decorative throw pillows look fab in your living room, or make for great gifts.

Activated Charcoal Soap by The Yellow Bird Theyellowbird.co • $9.99 From water filters to toothpaste, charcoal is having a moment! Use this natural cleanser to detox your pores and help bring beauty and nourishment back to your skin.

Mohave Cotton Throw by Pendleton Pendleton-usa.com • $99.50 As the weather turns cooler, wrap yourself in a luxe throw that’s expertly woven from the softest organic cotton. Pendleton uses the same quality craftsmanship to create these throws as they do their world-renown wool blankets. For fall, cotton is the lighter weight choice.

Hedgehog Aloe Bloomscape.com • $35 Whether you are a city dweller with limited sun, out in the countryside with an abundance of natural light, or somewhere in between, Bloomscape can customize and deliver the right greenery – along with fresher indoor air – directly to your doorstep. Choose from a variety of plants, sizes, and care levels.

Aura Day Light Therapy Lamp Amazon.com • $98.89 For those of us in the Northern Hemisphere, fall means the days are getting shorter. The Aura Day Light helps combat the negative health effects of diminishing natural light by providing adjustable simulated daylight anytime the mood strikes. Goodbye blues, hello indoor sunshine.

Molekule Air Purifier Molekule.com • $799 After years of scientific research and meticulous testing, Molekule has created an air purifier that truly lives up to the hype. Its modern design, portability and connectivity make it a great addition to any space. Rest easy knowing the indoor air you’ll breathe is remarkably clean.

6 | TWIST

By Jessica Turner • Working mothers constantly battle the pull to do all the things well. Managing work and home responsibilities can have a huge impact on self-care and time for deep friendships. The struggle is real, ladies!

Turner's second book shows women how to establish clear work boundaries, set achievable goals, discover more flexibility, develop home management solutions, and prioritize self-care. We know we could use more of that!

GUMMI BEARS SHOULD NOT BE ORGANIC: AND OTHER OPINIONS I CAN'T BACK UP WITH FACTS

By Stefanie Wilder-Taylor • The hilarious mom who brought us Sippy Cups Are Not for Chardonnay and Naptime Is the New Happy Hour is back with her third book, debunking all of those expectations we not-so-perfect moms just knew we didn't have to be doing to keep up with the Pinterest crowd. Phew! We can all go back to our wine glasses now.

SMITTEN KITCHEN EVERY DAY: TRIUMPHANT & UNFUSSY NEW FAVORITES

By Deb Perelman • No one has time to deal with complicated food when company is coming over or you just want to cook a delicious meal for your family and friends. Perelman, a mom who knows a thing or two about putting fabulous food on the table with kids underfoot, shows off her favorite meals that won't stress you out.

MOM BOSS: BALANCING ENTREPRENEURSHIP, KIDS & SUCCESS

By Nicole Feliciano • Being successful isn’t about degrees or sacrifices; it’s about balance and power. It’s where instinct meets intelligence. Every mom has it in her to be a badass business woman. Through real life stories from business women big and small, Feliciano proves on every page that you can have a successful career without sacrificing being a great mom.

BOOKS TO KEEP YOU MOTIVATED THROUGHOUT THE YEAR

STRETCHED TOO THIN: HOW WORKING MOMS CAN LOSE THE GUILT, WORK SMARTER, AND THRIVE

BOOKS, APPS AND MOTIVATION

BY KERYN MEANS • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM AND ANDREA FELLMAN • WANDERLUSTLIVING.COM

For most parents, back to school feels like the start of a whole new year. And why shouldn't it, with new schedules and routines added to the mix, so different to those long summer days? Here's a list of reads and apps that will help you stay sane through all of the changes.

GIRL, WASH YOUR FACE: STOP BELIEVING THE LIES ABOUT WHO YOU ARE SO YOU CAN BECOME WHO YOU WERE MEANT TO BE

By Rachel Hollis • Let's get one thing straight; no one has life figured out and you aren't alone. Hollis is breaking down the lies we tell ourselves in this honest and often hilarious book that encourages those of us who seek perfection to stop beating ourselves up for coming up short. It's time to give yourself grace without giving up.

TWIST | 7

HEAD SPACE • A meditation app that teaches you how to be mindful in a way that is simple and easy to understand. Not all of us were designed to slow down and clear our minds, but this can help.

PICNIIC • Keep your family organized, connected, and productive by bringing all of your activities, tasks and data into one shared space.

BUY ME A PIE • Sync your grocery list with your partner's, or send it to your smart watch so you can shop without staring at your phone.

Plus, you'll enjoy saying 'Buy me a pie!' every time you open this app.

GLO YOGA • This is the yoga app that even you can do... yes, you. It allows you to pick from various practices. Perfect for home, the gym or even the hotel room.

THE SKIMM • Both an app and an email subscription, The Skimm will keep you up-to-date with political and cultural news in quick, easily digested, and often entertainingly written bites. Of note: while this free service covers all news topics, The Skimm tends to be left-leaning.

GNIOG SU PEEK SPPA

SWORKIT • The fitness app for moms on the go or anyone who feels that they’re too busy to get or stay in shape. The app lets you create workouts customized for your goals that you can perform anywhere.

BLINKIST • Ever wish you had more time to read more books?

Well, Blinkist summarizes books and gives you all the main takeaways and best talking points. You can either read the condensed version or you can listen to the summary in audio. Perfect for when you are driving, folding laundry or walking the dogs.

BE FOCUSED • For every parent who's agonized with his or her child over homework, this timer and focus app will help you both stay on task and keep your sanity. We love that you can break up tasks (like 5th grade math) into manageable chunks, with much needed breaks built-in to offer much needed rewards.

PODCASTS THAT STRENGTHEN & RENEW LIFE, FAMILY & BUSINESS

EVOL EW STSACDOP 8 | TWIST

LET'S GET ORGANIZED AND MOVING

SELFIE • From the silly to the serious, Kristen and Sarah are taking a vulnerable and often humorous look at body, mind and spirit... and maybe a touch of the random, all while looking at the distractions and defenses that keep us from caring for ourselves like we all know we should.

THE DAILY • This daily podcast is always under 45 minutes long, bringing you up to speed on the biggest political stories of the day or week, going in-depth with smart interviews and insights.

Perfect to listen to as you wait to pick up the kids from sports practice or sit in traffic after picking up dinner.

MARIE FORLEO • "The place to be, to create a business and life you love." If you want to thrive, you need to listen to Marie Forleo. She is the creator of B School, an online business school that has helped millions of people launch their entrepreneurial dreams. Her show, Marie TV, has in-depth interviews with top business leaders, creative experts, authors and entrepreneurs.

THE UNMISTAKEABLE CREATIVE • A podcast that interviews some of the most successfully creative people on the planet. This podcast is a must if you are someone who is trying to achieve, build or create a business, a hobby, a passion or a lifelong dream.

This podcast will motivate you to get busy creating and doing what you know you were put on this earth to do.

STYLE YOUR MIND • Style Your Mind is a podcast for women who want to design their thoughts, empower themselves, and build a beautiful life. Cara Alwill Leyba is a master life coach and bestselling personal development author who's ready to show every woman on the edge of change how to reinvent herself, elevate her thinking, and transform her life.

how to get the best

FLIGHT DEALS 01 02

By Desiree Miller • DesMiller.com

Sign up for travel apps, alerts and subscription services. Our favorites include Scott’s Cheap Flights (the paid subscription is totally worth the alerts to your email inbox) and TravelPirates.

And if you’re bouncing around Europe, JustFly.com is a great resource to utilize.

03

Be flexible with dates. The most expensive time to fly is when everyone else wants to fly, so avoid those times (think the day before Thanksgiving).

I’ve flown on the actual holiday instead. It’s well worth the savings if you can convince your family.

05

If you can’t be flexible in any way, watch the rates for your destination. Use sites such as SkyScanner or Airfare Watchdog, and set alerts for destinations (either city or country, such as Barcelona or Spain), desired airline, and must-have travel dates.

Be flexible with where to go.

Odds are you don’t want to just go to one place—there are several on your ‘mustsee’ list. So be open-minded and when the rates drop, jump on the deal that day! If you can't go with the flow, then see the next tip down.

04

Be flexible with flight times.

If you’re willing to leave first thing in the morning, not only will you get the best rate, but odds are you won’t be facing any delays. Win, win! Peak travel times are 8 am until 10 am or 5 pm to 7 pm, so try avoiding those.

06

Split up the flights into two different tickets. If you’re based in the US, it can sometimes be much less expensive to fly to one of Europe's central hub cities, and then jump on another flight to the city you ultimately want to visit.

07

Clear your cookies before airfare shopping. If you open a private window, you’ll go into incognito mode and make it less likely for the websites to track your searches. Often, cookies leave a trace and rates go up when you go to search the same fare later. Another suggestion: look at the fare in a different currency. Sometimes, it makes a big difference in the price!

You have places to go, people to see, and memories to make on epic explorations ahead.

But your bank account is keeping you grounded.

Well, there are ways you can still see the worldon a budget. You just have to be willing to dig a little deeper for the deals and be flexible about exactly where and when you go.

THE BOTTOM LINE When you see a great deal, jump on it! Book the deal, then work out where to stay later. Almost all airfares are refundable up to 24 hours within purchase, so you have a little time to figure out the details. And if there’s a flight you simply must take, there are now many layaway type plans you can take advantage of directly through the airlines or services such as Airfordable.com, Uplift.com, or Affirm.com.

Enjoy your trip!

TWIST | 9

10 | TWIST

F A L L F A S H I O N

BY ANDREA FELLMAN WANDERLUSTLIVING.COM

PANTONE COLORS FALL 2018 Typical warm fall color palettes always include brown and golden hues, but this year we are seeing a few fresh shades like pastel pink, crisp greens and cool blues.

Fall Florals

Who says flowers are only for spring and summer? The floral trend is rolling right into fall, making for a beautiful color palette to play with.

Photos: Anthropologie and Free People

T R A V E L S T Y L E

WRAPS OR KIMONOS

BACK TO BOOTCUT

OVERSIZED SWEATERS

BRIGHT PLAID

Instead of a cardigan or blazer, try layering with a wrap or a kimono. This adds a bit of color to a neutral outfit and is lighter if you live in or travel to a warmer climate this autumn.

Denim trends come and go but this season you'll see a wide range of styles, so choose what you feel best in. Skinny, cropped, distressed, boot cut, wide leg or high rise.

We're sorry you can't stay snuggled up in a blanket all day, but you can wear an oversized sweater! Be sure it's not too bulky; wear it with a belt or tuck in the front for a more put together look.

Plaid is a seasonal staple and something everyone can wear. This pattern does not have to be dull; try finding a plaid with brighter colors. Wear it under blazers and sweaters.

TWIST | 11

12 | TWIST

Booties Choose a different shade of neutral this fall or kick it up a notch with an animal print!

Nadina Mule Bootie $90

Lucky Brand Wedge Bootie $148 Jefferey Campbell Rosalee Bootie $164

Accessories

Clarks Arlo Boot $160

Don't forget to pack a few accessories when you travel! Gold and resin are on trend for jewelry this fall.

Handbags Maybe your fall travel just means going to the office or PTA meetings, but that doesn't mean you can't buy yourself a brand new bag, too!

Blossom Resin Earrings $58 Resin Linked Up Drop Earrings $48 Lana Link Necklace $38

All Saints Mini Leather Crossbody Bag $198 Covent Garden Tote Bag $88

Comes in five colors!

Madewell Leather Crossbody Tote $148

TRAVEL STYLE

Jackets Pack jackets that can handle unpredictable fall weather and that you can be active in as you explore.

Stylish Sneakers Tennis shoes are no longer just for the gym and working out. Stylish sneakers are now cool enough to wear all day and make for the perfect, comfy travel shoe.

Athleta Coudburst Jacket $158

Naturalizer Cairo Sneaker $98

UGG Sidney Sneaker $120

Linea Paola Wedge Sneaker $120

UGG Cas Slip-on Sneaker $100 Fjällräven Travel Backpack $225 *Fjällräven will donate 100 Swedish Krona from the sale of each backpack to the Arctic Fox Project, which is dedicated to saving the Arctic fox.

Athleta Rock Ridge Jacket $198

Travel Bags Take a break from all black.

We love these travel bags and the beautiful fall colors they come in!

BY ANDREA FELLMAN WANDERLUSTLIVING.COM

Ted Baker London 33 Inch spinner bag $395

Treasure & Bond Skylar Leather Top Crossbody Bag $149

TWIST | 13

RECIPES

WARMING UP WITH AUTUMN FLAVORS

BY CARRIE BETH POSENER AND JEN GIAMBALVO • THEMAGNOLIAMAMAS.COM

When temperatures start to cool off, it is time to heat things up in the kitchen. We love healthy dishes that don’t require a ton of time to make and ones that are crowd pleasers for the entire family!

VEGETARIAN BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND APPLE BRUSCHETTA

SAUSAGE, VEGETABLE AND APPLE SHEET PAN DINNER INGREDIENTS 12 oz smoked turkey sausage, sliced into 1/3 inch thick slices 16 oz sweet potatoes, peeled and diced 16 oz brussel sprouts, halved 1/2 medium red onion, diced into chunks 2 crisp baking apples, cored and diced 1/4 cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste 2 tbsp chopped parsley (divided) DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Spray sheet pan with nonstick cooking spray.

2. Add sausage, sweet potatoes, brussel sprouts, apples and onion to sheet pan.

3. Drizzle everything with olive oil, sprinkle with 1 tbsp parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat.

4. Roast in preheated oven for 20 minutes. Remove and toss.

5. Return to oven and continue to roast until vegetables and apples are tender, about 15-20 minutes longer.

6. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

14 | TWIST

INGREDIENTS 2 cups diced butternut squash 1 cup diced apples 4 tbsp olive oil (divided) ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground nutmeg and ¼ tsp allspice 1 tsp salt (divided) and 1 tsp black pepper (divided) 8 slices french bread 1 cup ricotta cheese 2 tbsp balsamic glaze DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat the oven to 425° F. 2. Toss the butternut squash and apples with 2 tbsp olive oil, ground cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper.

3. Place evenly on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes.

4. While the squash and apples are roasting, brush the sliced bread with 2 tbsp olive oil. Set aside.

5. Combine the ricotta cheese with the remaining ½ tsp black pepper and salt.

6. Place the slices of bread into the oven for 4-5 minutes, or until toasted.

7. Remove the bread from the oven and top with the ricotta cheese, roasted squash and apple mix. Drizzle with the balsamic glaze.

RECIPES

PUMPKIN BREAD WITH COCONUT FROSTING Nothing screams fall like pumpkin bread. Give an old treat a new spin with coconut frosting that is sure to satisfy your sweet tooth.

INGREDIENTS 3 cups sugar 1 cup oil 3 eggs 1 16-ounce can of pumpkin 3 cups plain flour, unsifted 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp ground cloves 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground nutmeg chopped pecans

DIRECTIONS 1. Mix first four ingredients well.

2. Add dry ingredients and spices.

3. Mix thoroughly.

4. Divide mixture among three loaf pans, which have been greased and floured.

5. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 min.

COCONUT ICING (MAKES 3 CUPS) 1 1/2 unsalted butter, softened 5 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted 1/8 tsp salt 6 tbsp canned coconut milk 1. Using a handheld mixer, beat the butter on medium speed until smooth and creamy, or about 5 minutes.

2. Add 2 cups of confectioners' sugar; beat on medium to low speed until most of the sugar is moistened.

Gradually add in the remaining sugar, one cup at a time, mixing well after each addition.

3. Add salt and coconut milk and beat on medium speed until fully mixed.

To finish this dessert, microwave 1 cup of coconut icing for 30 seconds and drizzle over cooled bread.

Sprinkle with chopped pecans.

TWIST | 15

RECIPES

CLASSY Whiskey COCKTAILS SPARKLING WHISKEY COCKTAIL

BLACKBERRY WHISKEY SMASH

Splash of your favorite whiskey Splash of orange liqueur Prosecco 1 orange rind (or orange wedge)

2 oz of your favorite whiskey 1.5 oz simple syrup 1.5 oz fresh lemon juice 3 sprigs mint (and 1 for garnish) 5 blackberries (and 2 for garnish)

DIRECTIONS 1. Pour just a splash of the whiskey or bourbon and orange liqueur into a champagne glass.

2. Top off the glass with your favorite Prosecco.

3. Serve with an squeeze from an orange wedge or, if preferred, a big slice of orange rind.

DIRECTIONS 1. Muddle mint and blackberries in bottom of a shaker.

2. Add remaining ingredients and ice to just above the level of liquid. Cap and shake for five seconds.

3. Strain into glass filled with ice.

Garnish with remaining mint and whole blackberries.

16 | TWIST

SPIKED WHISKEY CIDER 4 oz apple cider 2 oz bourbon 2 tbsp cinnamon 1 tbsp sugar orange wedge rosemary sprig DIRECTIONS 1. Begin by combining the cinnamon and sugar together on a plate.

2. Run the orange wedge around the edge of your cocktail glass. Set the rim of the glass in the cinnamon and sugar, then fill the glass with ice.

3. In a shaker filled with ice, combine the cider and bourbon and stir to combine.

Strain into your ice-filled glass.

4. Garnish with the orange slice and rosemary sprig.

FOOD

ALLERGIES TRAVEL

IN

THE

FACE

OF

PARENTAL

FEARS

Quebec City will always remain one of the most beautiful cities I have ever visited. But to my eight-year-old daughter with food allergies, it will likely be remembered as one more place she suffered a life-threatening reaction to food.

Riding in an ambulance is not new for my youngest daughter. Getting stabbed in the leg with epinephrine, worrying about cross-contamination, and suffering severe anxiety over miscommunications is nothing new either. In her eight years of life, she’s suffered far too many episodes of anaphylaxis, many while far away from home.

Her food allergies are extremely severe. Nut powder transferred from the hand of a classmate can cause an immediate, life-threatening reaction. Milk bubbles swirled in the air from a Starbucks frother affect her instantly; she has to leave the coffee shop before a more severe reaction forms. Ingesting dairy of any amount causes anaphylaxis within seconds.

BY

KATIE

BODELL

•

TREKAROO.COM

As a family, we try to be extremely vigilant while also not letting fear dictate our destiny. Traveling with food allergies is a challenge. It isn’t easy and it isn’t often relaxing, but it doesn’t have to stop you from exploring the world. While we continue to travel, we have learned that while we can’t guarantee safety, we can do a whole lot of prep work to minimize the risk.

TWIST | 17

TIPS TO HELP YOUR FOOD ALLERGY FAMILY STAY SAFE WHILE TRAVELING 1. Keep your medication with you, always! A doctor’s note is not always necessary, but often helpful when explaining medication to security staff. Be sure to have medication refills available before traveling.

2. Always pack safe snacks. Delays in travel are almost as inevitable as hunger, especially when traveling with kids.

Don’t rely on your destination, airport lounge or convenience store providing access to safe foods.

3. Look for hotel rooms with kitchenettes or full kitchens so familiar, allergen-free meals can be prepared (or safely stored in a refrigerator) in-room.

4. Pack wipes. While traveling, wipes are safety magicians. We use Wet Ones wipes to clean off restaurant chairs and tables, airplane seats and trays, and hands and faces when there isn’t access to a sink or restroom. While we always prefer soap and water to a hand wipe, wipes are proven to be more effective at eliminating allergens than sanitizing lotions alone.

5. Read reviews on allergy-friendly restaurants and dining chains. Upon arrival at a restaurant, ask the staff if they can accommodate your allergy. If there is confusion (or worse, a sense of annoyance or disregard), ask to speak with a manager.

18 | TWIST

After you're served, verify your food accommodations upon receipt. If the restaurant is a chain, they might have allergen information online, but be sure to check for menu changes or variations at your location. If you don’t feel confident, don’t risk it. When traveling internationally, consider paying for a service to translate the severity of your family member's allergy to the country’s native language.

5. Upon arrival at a new destination, check your surroundings. How far away is the closest hospital? Do you know the address of your hotel? Is 911 the right emergency number? Don’t rely on your phone to determine and then navigate you to the closest hospital; cell service and navigation apps could fail you.

6. Research airline food offerings. Some airlines have stopped serving peanuts onboard (hurray!), so choose accordingly if this is an issue. Note your food allergy while booking your ticket, and upon arrival, ask for a preboarding pass to properly clean airplane surfaces.

7. Use caution with resort kids' clubs. Look for clubs that don’t allow snacks in the premises. Be sure to only leave your child with caretakers who have been CPR trained, have a way to contact you in case of emergency, and understand the severity of life-threatening food allergies.

Don’t have food allergies?

Count your blessings!

These tips are for you: 1. Educate your children on the food allergy epidemic while teaching them compassion. Food allergy bullying is on the rise; model empathy and kindness.

2. Don’t bring common, highly-dangerous allergens into confined spaces. (I’m looking at you, PB&Js on airplanes!). Keep your child’s hands and faces clean after eating, and before using shared equipment like playground toys.

3. Watch your comments. Noting how sad you would be if you could never have ice cream again, or how scary it is to have a child’s life held in the balance, doesn’t help anyone. Show sensitivity.

4. Don’t fake your food allergies. While your kiddo might not like to eat his veggies, don’t tell the restaurant server he is allergic; this reduces the staff’s understanding of severe food allergies and increases the likelihood of future problems for those with serious concerns.

WEBSITES & APPS WE LOVE AND USE: ● Find Me Gluten Free: This app, which often mentions other allergens in addition to gluten-free options, features reviews from actual customers with Celiac. ● Spoon Guru: This app features a barcode scanner that matches safe foods for your particular allergy. Originally from Europe, we find this app is especially helpful when ingredients are in a foreign language. ● AllergyEats: Read reviews of allergy-friendliness with this app, as well as links to current allergen menus. ● Trekaroo: Although not focused on allergies, this family travel app helps find restaurants, hotels, and attractions nearby, reviewed by real traveling families. ● FARE: The Food Allergy Research and Education is our go-to site for tips and tricks on navigating the confusing world of food allergies. ● Select Wisely: This app offers downloadable translation cards for food allergies for traveling abroad.

OUR FAVORITE ALLERGY-AWARE HOTELS & RESORTS: ● Disney (global): The gold standard for food allergy safety, with accommodations at every park, resort, hotel and cruise line. ● Four Seasons (global): Allergies are accommodated with ease from check-in to room service. ● Palladium Hotels (global): These all-inclusive resorts keep food allergy families safe.

SIMPLE, EVERYDAY FOODS MAY LOOK INNOCENT TO MOST FAMILIES, BUT FOR KIDS WITH FOOD ALLERGIES, THEY ARE ANYTHING BUT. TWIST | 19

FIRST DAY: DOWNCITY Start off by sampling Providence’s famous food scene. For a quick bite, pop into Bolt Coffee in the lobby of the fun and funky Dean Hotel, or Knead Doughnuts for a sweet treat.

Afterwards, shop and browse along Westminster Street.

You will find unique gifts and crafts at Craftland and Homestyle. Peak into the Arcade, the country’s oldest indoor shopping mall.

When you get hungry, Providence Coal Fired Pizza is a family favorite, or you can try to beat the line outside of popular Ken’s Ramen.

PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND

BY TAMARA GRUBER • WE3TRAVEL.COM

As the 'Creative Capital' of the nation’s smallest state, Providence packs a big punch.

Hipsters and foodies have deemed Providence an upand-coming city, but families have also discovered its unique neighborhoods.

As home to Brown University, Rhode Island School of Design, and Johnson & Wales University, Providence attracts an eclectic mix of artists, makers, authors and academics. Try to time your visit during one of the city's many creative events, such as Waterfire or the Providence Children's Film Festival.

20 | TWIST

A long weekend will give you the perfect amount of time to explore. The city itself is fairly small and easy to discover primarily on foot, but it still helps to find a central home base downtown in the neighborhood locals call 'Downcity'.

For a posh stay in a historic hotel, you can’t beat the Biltmore Hotel. But for families on a budget, the Hilton Garden Inn Providence is a solid choice.

The city is adding new familyfriendly lodging downtown with the construction of a Homewood Suites.

3 d a y s

GET TO KNOW THE CREATIVE CAPITAL OF THE LITTLEST STATE IN AMERICA In the afternoon, see if you can schedule a tour of the state capital.

Kids can learn the story behind Independent Man on the top of the dome, the fourth-largest if it's kind in the world.

THIRD DAY: WEST SIDE AND BEYOND On your final day in Providence, start off with brunch at the hipster restaurant Julian’s on the West Side, or pick up a nitro cart coffee (and bikes) at Dash.

For dinner, sample some Greek specialties at Kleos, or try the French bistro fare of Bravo Brasserie. If you are lucky, maybe you can catch a show at the Providence Performing Arts Center or Trinity Rep theater.

Then head out of the city, perhaps on bikes to explore the East Bay Bike Path. This dedicated bike path covers 14.5 miles from India Point Park in Providence along the water and through various towns and parks to Bristol, Rhode Island.

SECOND DAY: EAST SIDE Pop into Three Sisters for brunch, then enjoy shopping along Hope Street. Stock Culinary Goods offers specialty items for inspiring chefs, while Henry Bear’s Park offers a fun mix of educational and hard to find toys for kids. Kreatelier features fabric-based products made by local artists and will inspire you to take up sewing (and teach the kids how!).

If you would rather be outside, sign up for a tour with Providence Riverboat Company and learn all about the history of the city.

For dinner, Bacaro offers the best modern Italian around. For those looking for casual fare, you can’t beat Tallulah’s Taqueria.

If you are lucky enough to visit during a Waterfire event, the kids will love soaking up the lights and sounds of this festival when over 80 bonfires are lit on the river, with music piped in along the path. As the aroma of crackling wood fills the air and the city glows from the ambient light, street performers entertain the thousands who gather.

If biking isn’t your thing, take a drive to Roger Williams Park and Zoo. In the park you will find everything from swan boats and pony rides to a botanical garden and carousel. The zoo is home to more than 100 species of animals including elephants, giraffes, zebras, bears, harbor seals and red pandas. You can feed the giraffes, enjoy the barnyard animals, climb in a treehouse, ride a camel, and even zip line over the treetops.

When you head back to town, have dinner on the legendary Federal Hill, known for the Italian restaurants that line Atwells Avenue. Afterwards, stop for some gelato and to enjoy the music in DePasquale Square.

The only thing left to do? Plan your next trip to Providence!

TWIST | 21

She Gets Around

KEEP CALM: IT’S ONLY AN EXTRA CHROMOSOME

22 | TWIST

BY KATHLEEN M. BASI • KATHLEENBASI.COM

On New Year’s Day 2010, while heading home from our family Christmas holiday in Southern Illinois, we ran into a crazy, unseasonal thunderstorm. The radio alert threatened 'rain-wrapped tornadoes' and told everyone to get off the highway. With nowhere to go, we dragged our young children into the McDonald’s at Nashville, Illinois, for safety – along with about a hundred other holiday travelers doing the same.

In the chaos of trying to keep our little boys entertained, our two-year-old daughter, Julianna, sneaked off. Which might not have been a big deal, except that she was nonverbal and has Down syndrome.

Luckily, we found her wandering the aisles, waving and saying, “Euh! Euh!” (which meant “Hi! Hi!”) to everyone.

We caught her climbing up onto a bench beside a complete stranger, focused on snagging a few French fries from the poor sucker, who had no idea what was about to hit him. (As an aside, she totally would have succeeded.)

She Gets Around In the flurry of apologies that followed, we started comparing weather radars and discussing where we were coming from and where we were going. Not just with Captain French Fry, either – the conversation spread to all the surrounding tables. We were back on the road before I fully absorbed what had happened: my daughter had completely obliterated the usual boundaries of polite society. She’d facilitated real connections, however fleeting, among travelers.

Now, let me be clear: traveling with a child with a disability is not without difficulties. Julianna has no sense of interpersonal boundaries, and although she’s terrified of dogs, heights, and plenty of other ordinary things, she is not afraid of getting lost. She likes to wander — and the problem is not that she gets lost. The problem is, she doesn’t even know she’s lost. One December, we drove two hours to visit the Union Pacific Holiday Train. The admission line was an hour long, and my youngest threw a temper tantrum. While this naturally preoccupied me, Julianna disappeared.

Several thousand people crowded into Kansas City’s Union Station that day, and it took us, along with every security guard in the building, twenty minutes of searching to find her – riding the kiddie train that cost $5 per ride. Which she didn’t have. She was circling around and around, lounged back like this was her living room.

We never did see the holiday train that day. We decided burgers at Fritz’s Railroad Restaurant was close enough.

This was not the first time my chromosomally-gifted daughter has worked such magic, nor was it the last. This is how she navigates her ordinary days; why would she act any differently on the road?

Julianna is eleven now, and our family trips have ranged from Mackinac Island to the Rockies and Florida. The sights, she greets with sublime indifference. Wherever we go, she’s all about the people. She is the only person I’ve ever met who is completely unfazed by race, physical disability, or sheer social awkwardness. It’s not that she doesn’t see the differences. She just doesn’t care.

So yes, there are challenges. Mobility is another of them.

You can’t imagine how slowly she moves. Everything takes twice as long as it should, and we can’t run across Disney World or Six Flags to squeeze in one more ride before lunch. Also, as she gets older, the gap between her actual and developmental age widens. With her three brothers ticking off developmental stages like clockwork, we will always be required to juggle attractions at multiple interest levels.

And of course, we have to be very aware of other people.

We have to achieve a tricky balance between letting Julianna be Julianna — making interpersonal connections, reaching across barriers, and paving the way for a better future for herself and others with Down syndrome — and recognizing the social cues she doesn’t always get. The ones that say, 'Back off, I’m not comfortable with this.'

Her favorite people are babies, small children, and the one person in the room everybody else is afraid to engage. Sometimes she asks questions nobody should ever ask. But her visible disability, so far, has rendered her immune from giving offense. And by knocking out the elephant in the room, so to speak, she manages to remove the social walls that keep the rest of us from talking to each other.

She’s cute, she’s charming, and she’s certainly a people person. In a nutshell: Julianna is a fabulous ambassador for Down syndrome.

TWIST | 23

She Gets Around

Because let’s be honest, not everyone is okay with people with special needs. Some people are really freaked out by disability. And forcing people to interact beyond their comfort zone doesn’t break down social barriers, it solidifies them.

In other words, as parents, not only do my husband and I have to be aware of our own kids and our own logistics while traveling, we also have to be excruciatingly aware of other people. This is difficult, because the rest of our family consists of committed introverts who would rather never have to converse with a stranger the whole trip.

Still, we don’t mind too much. We are teaching our chromosomally-gifted daughter that she has a right to be a part of the same world as everyone else—and in the process, we are helping the rest of the world grow accustomed to her presence.

We are teaching our chromosomally-gifted daughter that she has a right to be a part of the same wide world as everyone else.

That’s really important because the world isn’t always a welcoming place for people like her. People with disabilities often get shunted off to some corner where the rest of the community doesn’t have to interact with them much. Our long-term goals for her are hard to achieve, and success or failure depends as much on the welcome of the larger community as it does on us.

Inclusive and open communities don’t just happen.

They’re developed intentionally by their members. If those members never have meaningful interactions with people with disabilities, inclusivity and openness will likely never be on their radar at all.

Traveling with Julianna comes with particular challenges, no doubt about it. But it’s worth it. The more people who cross paths with her, the more people will realize her particular configuration of chromosomes is nothing to fear. As a shirt popular in Down syndrome circles says, 'Keep calm—it’s only an extra chromosome!'

24 | TWIST

DURBUY

m u i g Bel

THE WORLD'S

SMALLEST

BY KATJA GASKELL • GLOBETOTTING.COM

CITY TWIST | 25

Wallonia region “Is that it?” asked my eldest incredulously. “That doesn’t look like a city. It’s way too small.” We’re standing at the top of a watch tower looking out over Durbuy and he’s right, this tiny city in Belgium’s Wallonia region looks more like a village than a metropolis. But despite its miniature size – you can walk from one side to the other in under five minutes – this is a city; the smallest city in the world.

I was born in Belgium and spent a large part of my early years growing up in Brussels. But despite my childhood home being less than a two-hour drive away, I had never even heard of Durbuy until I visited with my three kids and my sister on spring break from the UK. As the old saying goes, however, better late than never because this miniature medieval city is an absolute joy. Filled with winding cobbled streets, ancient stone houses and with a turreted castle in the center, it’s like something from a storybook. Adding to the fairy-tale feel is its location in the Ardennes, surrounded by rolling hills, pineclad forests and rippling river bends.

26 | TWIST

We arrived in Durbuy on a sunny afternoon and, picnic in hand from the local deli, made our way to the Roche de la Falize, an enormous limestone massif that dates back some 360 million years. It was a fitting start for our Durbuy adventure as it’s here where the city’s story really begins.

Durbuy and the surrounding area has been inhabited seemingly forever. The porous limestone rock that dominates the region provided the perfect caves for stone-age hunter-gatherers – tools found in some of these caves date back more than 10,000 years. Five

thousand years later, locals were building stone monuments in nearby Wéris that you can still see today.

The Romans passed through in the 1st century BC, turning Durbuy into a trade route pit stop. By the 11th century, Durbuy was a feudal-castle town, its roads lined by watchtowers and forts. Durbuy continued to grow, and, in 1331, was elevated to the status of city. Ramparts were raised all around the tiny town, creating la plus petite ville du monde, the smallest city in the world.

I mention this brief history lesson not only because it’s fascinating that people have been living here since time immemorial but because it’s mind-boggling to think that the very cobbled streets that you walk along in Durbuy today have literally not changed since the 14th century.

Nowadays visitors arrive to soak up the medieval town’s atmosphere and take part in its outdoor activities. For a small city, Durbuy has a lot to offer.

Our first stop was Chèvrerie de Borlon, a nearby goat farm owned by the extremely affable Géradine. Having harbored goat ambitions since she was a child (honestly, she’s wanted a goat since she was eight years old!), Géradine established her own farm in 2017 and now has 22 female goats and makes her own cheese daily.

My three kids have spent the majority of their lives living in mega-cities (New Delhi, Mexico City and London) and, despite holidays in the great outdoors, are more comfortable navigating traffic jams than corralling a herd of goats. Still, they took to the task of collecting goats from the field and feeding them with gusto.

It’s mind-boggling to think that the very cobbled streets that you walk along in Durbuy today have not changed since the 14th century.

Day two saw us head to Adventure Valley, Belgium's biggest adventure park where you can fully embrace the outdoors, climbing, biking, zip lining, sliding, and jumping.

kids slid on huge inner tubes, bounced on enormous nets suspended in the air, and ran across rope bridges. Yes, it was kid-heaven, right there in the countryside.

At three years old, our youngest, Sam, was too young for pretty much any activity (the trials of having two much older siblings) but fortunately, there’s a magnificent playground at the heart of the park. Meanwhile, the big

In total, Adventure Valley offers a plethora of activities, from a 20-meter climbing wall to laser tag, kayaking, and even an escape room, leaving us plenty to do on our next visit... or two or three.

28 | TWIST

The following day was one of our favorites and involved another first for my big city kids: fishing. Our guide was Frederic from Riveo, a small, independent center dedicated to studying and protecting local rivers with a strong focus on education. We spent the morning learning to fish, and Frederic was very patient as he explained how to bait the fish hook and how to cast the rod into the water. My eldest was the only one willing to touch the maggots to begin with, although the youngest soon took great pleasure in ferrying live maggots to needy fishermen. Given his somewhat heavy-handed manner, however, I'm not sure how many of them survived the brief walk from bench to river bank.

Durbuy combined everything I love in a holiday; a city vibe with plenty of outdoor activities and a picturesque setting.

Next, from above ground we traveled below, 70 meters underground to be exact, with a visit to nearby Les Grottes de Hotton, the Hotton Caves. There are more than 1,000 caves in Belgium and this particular one was first discovered in 1958. These caves are a true adventure. Formed by rainwater, the natural cave system is 7 km long in total and reaches a depth of 70 meters below the surface and a chilly 12C. Tours cover 1 km of the cave system and reveal incredible stalagmites and stalactites, beautiful drapery formations on the stone walls and even a layer of ancient seabed embedded with shells that dates back 390 million years.

Our final day saw us back in Durbuy itself on a mini train ride around the streets and up the watchtower for our bird’s-eye view of the city. As we deliberated on just how different Durbuy was to any city we had ever lived in, we spotted the Topiary Park. Home to some 250 figures, this local favorite is the largest of its kind in Europe with animals, people, buildings and more created from Boxwood plants. Our favorites included the kayakers and the squirrels, although apparently the Pamela Anderson figure sunbathing is quite popular!

Durbuy combined everything I love in a holiday; a city vibe with plenty of outdoor activities and a picturesque setting with delicious restaurants (we ate very well in Durbuy). It might be the world’s smallest city but it deserves big praise indeed.

AUSTIN: FOODIE FAVS ONE LOCAL FOODIE IS ON A MISSION TO PROVE THAT THIS CULTURAL HAVEN IN THE LONE STAR STATE OFFERS MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE

PHOTOS: JANE KO

BY JANE KO • ATASTEOFKOKO.COM

Austin, the Live Music Capital of the World, is enjoying a vibrant food scene. As a resident Austin food blogger and local Austinite, I’ve seen the city – and its dining venues – grow rapidly over the years. Come to Austin for the live music scene and the friendly people, then stay for the local restaurants! Speaking of which, there are four things you have to eat when visiting Austin: barbecue, tacos, queso, and margaritas.

Ready to dig in?

TWIST | 31

32 | TWIST

WHERE TO EAT BREAKFAST Veracruz: When you come to Austin, you have to eat tacos and the place to go is Veracruz.

Keep it authentic by eating at their original food trailer in East Austin.

Tacodeli: Austin’s famous breakfast tacos are a must-eat. You can find them at almost every coffee shop, but this is my fave.

Juan In A Million: Homemade Mexican comfort food with generous portions since 1980...you can't go wrong.

LUNCH La Barbecue: Barbecue is a quintessential food experience in Austin, whether it's standing in line at Franklin or seeing the giant meat pit at Salt Lick. My favorite barbecue spot, however, is La Barbecue. Get the brisket and the ribs.

Café No Se: Cute café inside the South Congress Hotel with a healthy menu.

Hillside Farmacy: Pharmacy turned restaurant in East Austin.

Le Politique: French restaurant in downtown Austin with a coffee shop.

Dee Dee: Authentic Thai food served out of a trailer. Be careful; it is spicy!

HAPPY HOUR Uchi : It can be difficult to dine at this James Beard award-winning restaurant without a reservation in advance, and it can be pricey.

Head to their happy hour instead, every day from 5 – 6:30 pm.

Clark’s Oyster Bar: Best burger in Austin and it’s half off on Monday to Fridays from 3 – 6 pm.

Grizzelda’s: $6 margaritas and discounted TexMex bites on a cute outdoor patio. Yum!

DINNER COFFEE There are so many local coffee shops in Austin but here are a couple of my favorites: Jo’s Coffee Houndstooth Hank’s Summer Moon Cosmic Coffee

Fresa’s on South 1st: Shareable taco plates, queso, and elotes in a colorful, outdoor patio.

Sway: Modern Thai food with a location in North Austin and South 1st.

June’s: Wind down at this chic wine bar on South Congress.

Loro: Asian smokehouse meets Texas barbecue by two of Austin’s most iconic chefs, Tyson Cole and Franklin Barbecue.

A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS TO DO Paddleboarding on Lady Bird Lake: For the best view of downtown Austin, get on a paddle board (or kayak if you’re not well-balanced) and paddle through Lady Bird Lake. Tip: Pack a small cooler with drinks. You want to stay hydrated!

Ride the Zilker Zephyr: Zilker Park is the biggest park in Austin and the easiest way to see all of it is on the Zilker Zephyr. The 25-minute ride on this miniature train takes you all around the park with views of Lady Bird Lake. Children cost only $2 but be sure to bring cash.

Shop South Congress Street: South Congress has great local boutiques, such as Allen’s Boots, Tesoros Trading, Co-Star, and Limbo Jewelry on South Congress.

WHERE TO STAY Traffic is terrible in Austin so it’s important to pick your neighborhood based on what you want to do. I always recommend South Congress (easily walkable), downtown or East Austin.

Hotel Van Zandt: Located right on Rainey Street, Hotel Van Zandt a prime choice for those looking to go bar hopping. Great for a weekend getaway without the kids in tow.

South Congress Hotel: This hotel on South Congress features a rooftop pool, cute café, and coffee shop.

Hotel San Jose: A charming little bungalow with a minimalistic design.

W Hotel: If you want luxury, W Hotel is the best luxury hotel in Austin.

JW Marriott: The perfect family-friendly option, JW Marriott is located in the center of downtown Austin.

Airbnb: I love East Austin and there are so many lovely homes in this neighborhood.

TWIST | 33

Sseko Designs

STYLE FOR GOOD USING FASHION TO EMPOWER WOMEN

ACROSS THE GLOBE

ABLE Flagship store, Nashville, TN

BY KERYN MEANS • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

BY AMY WHITLEY • PITSTOPSFORKIDS.COM

photos: Keryn Means/WalkingOnTravels.com

During my younger years, I didn't give much thought to where my clothes came from in the world. As a teenager, disposable fashion was what it was all about.

In my twenties and thirties, I realized that my mother might have been onto something when she told me that investment pieces and quality items were worth buying. I found that putting my money toward a great cause makes that investment go even farther. Of course, not all fashion brands are up to the challenge of blending style and philanthropy.

“If we really wanted to make a difference, we knew we needed to offer what you needed in your day-to-day,” says Jordan Soderholm, fashion director at ABLE, an innovative fashion retailer. ABLE's goal is to create a label that more women can afford while remaining what stylish women will actually want to wear. The company started out modestly selling scarves but has evolved as trends shifted.

I first met Soderholm and her team at a conference for creative entrepreneurs. She, along with founder Barrett Ward and his wife, explained that they were helping women in not only Ethiopia, Mexico and Peru, but also their hometown of Nashville, TN. Stepping into their bright and airy shop in The Nations neighborhood, I was instantly overcome with the desire to buy everything: luscious leather bags (handmade in Ethiopia), delicate rings and necklaces (created in-house), jeans (from Mexico) and shoes, glorious shoes (from Peru). What made these items even more special? I met the women who made them in the back of the shop; women who are being paid well above minimum wage.

ABLE believes that the key to ending generational poverty isn't just to provide services, but to give a woman a job that will pay her a living wage that will end her reliance on nonprofit services. In an effort to get more fashion labels to end the cycle of taking advantage of women in factories, ABLE has put a call out for companies to join them in publicly publishing their lowest wages.

But just because your purchase helps women doesn't mean you have to sacrifice style. Investment pieces, even the ones investing in people, should look good and be ontrend. This is why we love brands like ABLE. TWIST | 35

ECUALINE

SSEK O DE SIGN S

SUPPORTING WOMEN THROUGH THE ITEMS YOU CRAVE. RAVEN + LILY Raven + Lily is a lifestyle brand offering fair trade fashion, accessories, and home furnishings with a mission to empower women on a global scale. Founder Kirsten Dickerson travels the world looking for women to employ and has found them in 10 countries so far, providing them with a fair trade wage and access to a safe job, sustainable income, and healthcare. Every Raven + Lily purchase, whether it is artisan jewelry and handbags or handcrafted soaps and soy candles, benefits the Raven + Lily ecosystem while also funding micro-loans to female entrepreneurs.

36 | TWIST

SSEKO DESIGNS Buy a pair of sandals = send a girl to college. Sounds pretty simple doesn't it? This is the idea behind Sseko Designs, where every dress, bag and pair of sandals you buy is made by a team of women in Uganda who are saving for their college education. Finally, you can feel good about what you wear, and think about another child you have helped get through college, besides your own.

ECUADANE When three American sisters combined their love of travel and cultural understanding, Ecudane was born. This online market of curated short-run, high-quality products from around the world features blankets, ponchos, scarves, jewelry and more, enabling us all to become more aware of the beauty of the human experience.

TAKING THE 'SEX' OUT OF FASHION No one, and we do mean no one, should ever feel threatened or forced to do something he or she doesn't want to do, no matter his or her gender, which is why we love to support companies who rescue women from human trafficking. And the companies featured here take it one step beyond rescue: they support girls and women at high risk of entering this form of slavery so that they are protected from ever being preyed upon by sex traffickers in the future.

Photos: . Branded; Her Future Coalition; Purpose. (Opposite) Amy Whitley; Sseko Designs; Ecuadane

Through education, job training, health care, legal aid and counseling, these companies are able to bring new hope to women, and you can too. While there are a number of jewelry and accessory labels out there doing great work in the nonprofit sector, we love Purpose Jewelry, the Branded Collective and Her Future Coalition. These three organizations have made it their sole mission to help women escape from sex slavery, and help you support these efforts through beautiful, handmade creations, made exclusively by the women you have helped to protect. Talk about wearing your heart on your sleeve, arm, neck and finger!

HER FUTURE COALITION herfuturecoalition.org

PURPOSE JEWELRY purposejewelry.org

BRANDED COLLECTIVE brandedcollective.com

TWIST | 37

SADDLE UP 38 | TWIST

LADIES

DUDE RANCHES MIGHT JUST BE THAT PERFECT, UNPLUGGED FAMILY VACATION YOU'VE BEEN MISSING.

BY AMY WHITLEY • AMYWHITLEY.COM

Photos: Home Ranch; Amy Whitley

ON OUR FIRST FULL DAY AT THE HOME RANCH, COLORADO, WE RODE HORSEBACK THROUGH PASTURE AND ASPEN GLADES UNDER A WIDE, BLUE SKY, the high elevation and thin air intensifying the sun’s welcome rays. We bore witness to roaming cattle, the errant white-tailed deer, and, at one lucky point, the quick dash of a fox across an Alpine meadow. Our wrangler pointed out the landmarks as our horses picked their way along the trail, from the distinct point of Hahn’s Peak, practically in our backyard, to the distant Sawtooths and Zirkel Wilderness. We laughed at his story of a black bear breaking into his cabin during the past spring, testing out the furniture Goldilocks-style, and as we turned back toward the barn after climbing a particularly steep hill, the expanse of the ranch lay out before us: the Home Ranch’s unique greenhouse and gardens to one side of the indoor riding arena, the outdoor arena and corrals, the rambling, log-constructed main lodge, the fishing pond, the rec building, bike and fishing huts, and tucked-away guest cabins.

TWIST | 39

After dismounting and handing my horse off to one of the barn wranglers, I made my way toward the main lodge, waving to the kids running happily amok on the front lawn, their dedicated children’s counselors keeping the organized chaos well under control. I thought about a dip in the outdoor pool to free myself of the dust of the ride, but opted instead to pour myself a pre-dinner drink from the inviting honor bar and put my boots up, settling myself onto the shady front deck. I had only one responsibility before me: to dress for the nightly farm-to-fork dinner in the lodge dining room, and to perhaps chat over afterdinner drinks with my fellow ranch guests in the ‘living room’ before bedtime.

A weeklong stay at The Home Ranch, located just outside Steamboat Springs, Colorado, is like summer camp for the entire family. Like almost all dude ranch vacations, it’s allinclusive, with multiple outdoor activities at the ready.

Beyond horseback riding, The Home Ranch offers mountain biking, hiking, Orvis-endorsed fly fishing, and swimming. Having made a habit of enjoying dude ranch vacations in the American west, I had packed high expectations along with my riding boots and cowboy hat…expectations that were met at every turn. I shouldn’t have been surprised; after all, The Home Ranch is a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux hotel association, which means guests can count on a very high level of service and cuisine.

Every day at the Home Ranch began with the arrival of the horses down the fenced chute from the night pasture, and head wrangler Michael checking in with each family at the breakfast table. Would they like to participate in the day’s riding program? Would they prefer a family hike? Does anyone want to fish or bike? He’d make it happen, whatever the request. Lunches of barbecue and salad options were taken on the deck, and each evening, the kitchen changed things up, from homemade pizzas fired in the outdoor pizza oven to a barbecue barn dance to a fivecourse wine pairing dinner in the elegant dining room.

40 | TWIST

A week-long stay at The Home Ranch is like summer camp for the entire family.

Kids were kept entertained and supervised most of the day, with the option to pull them out of whatever activities were on tap (good luck!) for some family time.

Nights were spent well rested in lodge rooms and individual family cabins tucked in the trees. The week flew by, as we challenged ourselves on bikes, caught fish, rode and met new friends. When it came time to go, I fully understood why many families book their next summers’ stay before packing for the airport.

Photos: Homes Ranch

How this translated during our week-long stay: an accomplished chef and kitchen staff at the helm of every meal, a Wine Spectator award-winning wine list in the bar, a productive high elevation farm supplying farm-to-table fare, wrangler staff and kids’ staff always ready to assist, and most importantly, the word ‘yes’ uttered at every turn. Want a packed lunch and a guide to hike a nearby mountain? Yes. Hoping to learn where the best fishing holes are located along the Elk River? Certainly. Wish to change your ride into an arena lesson? Of course.

HOW TO PICK A DUDE RANCH Ready to book your own dude ranch vacation? All ranches are different, with their own distinct personalities. Here's what you need to ask yourself first.

STEP 1: ASK YOURSELF THE FOLLOWING QUESTIONS: 1. Is horseback riding the most important aspect of a dude ranch vacation for our family?

If the answer is yes, choose from ranches that emphasize their riding programs above all else. If the answer is no, you’ll want to look for a ranch that offers a wider range of more generalized activities, or risk booking a ranch that’s all horseback riding, all the time.

2. Are your kids all over at the age of 6-8 years?

If the answer is no, you’ll need to look carefully at the fine print of each dude ranch site, to make sure your kids will be able to participate or can even be accommodated. I highly recommend waiting to take a dude ranch vacation when all kids are over age six, at least.

3. How important is your dining experience at the ranch?

If ranch cuisine is very important, you’re in luck: there are certainly ranches offering gourmet dining experiences. If not, you’ll certainly have more options, and can expect food that falls in the upscale family-style buffet category.

4. Will you be combining your dude ranch vacation with other destinations in the same trip?

If yes, look for ranches near vacation destinations that appeal to you, and make your dude ranch stay part of a longer road trip.

5. Do you want to make new friends, or bond as a family?

You can certainly do both, but at many ranches, the kids’ program is separate from the adult program, making the experience much more like ‘camp’ for the kids. If you want to eat meals as a family and ride as a family, pick a ranch that is structured in this way, and avoid ranches that promote kids-only dining and adults-only activities.

TWIST | 41

STEP 2: NARROW DOWN YOUR CHOICES

STEP 3: BOOK OVER THE PHONE

Use a site such as the Dude Ranchers’ Association or a dude ranch round-up at a trusted family travel website to identify specific ranches that will meet your needs. We recommend staying open-minded regarding ranch location as long as possible, placing a higher emphasis on ranch amenities and programs than on geography.

Dude ranches are personalized places, and calling to book your stay allows you to describe your family dynamics, which will help the ranch place you in just the right accommodations. If your calendar is flexible, this is the time to ask which weeks will have kids the same ages as yours, or which week might have additional newbies like yourself. Keep in mind that booking a week already filled with return guests who know each other may make for a more challenging social situation, but could just as easily lead to a new tradition… an annual ranch week with new friends that have become like family.

Season makes a difference as well: if your trip needs to happen during the winter holiday break, for instance, you can opt for a ranch offering snow activities, or head south to a ranch in Arizona or California.

ved o r p Ap Dude hes Ranc

WHERE: Wyoming, US WHAT TO EXPECT: Riding program-focused (come to ride!)

Kids eat and play separately Rustic accommodations; no pool Adjacent to two national parks

Flathead Lake Lodge WHERE: Montana, US WHAT TO EXPECT: Water sports activities on par with the riding program Larger ranch than most Lakeside lodging Close to Glacier National Park

42 | TWIST

Three Bars Ranch WHERE: British Columbia, Canada WHAT TO EXPECT: Casual dining and lots of family time Low-key riding program Plenty of additional activities (and pool) Located in the Canadian Rockies

Paws Up WHERE: Montana, USA WHAT TO EXPECT: Luxury experience Completely customizable, tailored experience Elevated dining Every amenity one could ask for

ADDITIONAL RANCHES FOR KIDS UNDER AGE SIX ALISAL GUEST RANCH, CALIFORNIA Kids as young as four can ride in the arena Any age beginners can enjoy lead-alongs MOUNTAIN SKY GUEST RANCH, MONTANA Supervised kids program for all ages Bonus: great teen program offered

Photo: Amy Whitley

Triangle X Ranch

SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO GET AWAY TO FIND YOURSELF AGAIN.

o t l e v a Tr s s e n l l e W

TWIST | 43

u o y f o e r a Taking c

BY NADIA CARRIERE • LUNASOULCOLLECTIVE.COM

There exists some common misconceptions about yoga: that perhaps there is a need to touch one's toes, or put your leg over your head before you can begin. Nothing could be further from the truth. Yoga asks for you to simply show up and be. It asks you to find your breath and breathe through movements, linking the two together. This allows an openness to occur, and it's in that gap where emotions, ideas, feelings and pent up stagnancy can move and be free. There is no skill or prerequisite, and certainly it's not about standing on your head.

Similarly, travel is an act of discovery; it just takes you a little deeper. When we step into the unknown, we discover more about the world, ourselves and those closest to us. Travel is a sensory experience, stretching our minds and going beyond comfort zones to discover and respect life as a whole.

The simple act of wandering the globe opens us up to new possibilities, and in the process we experience expansion. It asks nothing of us but to simply look and listen with an open mind and heart.

Our health is a gift that we so easily take for granted until it's been taken away from us in one way or another.

44 | TWIST

It's a privilege to be able to move our body, use it, feel and touch, walk and see, yet how many of us really take care of ourselves?

Putting our mental and physical well being at the forefront is considered a hobby rather than a necessity in North America. I'm determined to change that, which is why I'm so passionate about my work.

TRAVEL IS AN ACT OF DISCOVERY, AS IS YOGA; IT JUST TAKES YOU A LITTLE DEEPER. The privilege of watching someone discover and feel in different ways, through connection, is a gift. Talking and listening to others, sharing space, creating open containers for emotions and ideas, and working through activities and workshops to facilitate growth is a sacred thing.

Many readers may not know this, but it's actually Andrea Fellman, editor-in-chief of Twist, who I have to thank for fueling this fire on

another level. The first retreat I ever led was a collaboration between the two of us at the Westin in Costa Rica. It was life changing for many, and it opened my eyes to a world I never wanted to leave.

I believe every person we meet and learn from are our teachers, and I've had so many in my short 32 years on this planet. I'm grateful to every single one of my past, present and future teachers for guiding me and teaching me in more ways than they could possibly know.

Next time you travel, I encourage you to add a little wellness to your trip. Visit an Ayurvedic spa, a meditation center, or drop in on a yoga class. You'll discover more than you could ever imagine possible.

For more information on retreats Nadia offers, visit her on Instagram @lunasoulcollective, or lunasoulcollective.com Upcoming retreat: Lune de Marrakech at Peacock Pavilion in Morocco June 1-7, 2019

ISLA HOLBOX, MEXICO Traveling has never been an issue for me, meaning that I can jump on a plane at the drop of a hat. But traveling for my own health and well-being was a foreign concept. I took a week away from kids and family to spend time on Isla Holbox on the northern end of the Yucatan to enjoy yoga and the tropical world. And it was incredible.

WELLNESS RETREATS WE LOVE

BY KATJA GASKELL, ROB TAYLOR AND CLAUDIA LAROYE

Photos: Rob Taylor/2traveldads.com

Led by instructors Joanne Matson and Victor Varana, the Birds of Paradise Yoga Retreat was a life-changing experience.

I know, 'life-changing' is a cliche.

But it actually was. With two intense yoga sessions daily paired with sightseeing and relaxation in hammocks over the Caribbean, it was an experience I must relive each year now.

The best part of this particular yoga retreat was starting each day focusing on health and clearing our minds before we headed out into nature. Vinyasa Yoga is very powerful to me personally, so beginning each day by energizing my body and mind and then walking across the sand bar...well, it was perfect. Also, one of the leaders, Joanne, incorporated ayurveda into the yoga practice, so each day was mindful in more ways than just in our planned sessions.

The retreat took place at Villas Flamingos Holbox, a beautiful property directly on the beach with several pools and lots of quiet space all around. The restaurant on property offered extremely fresh, healthful options and the staff was there for our every need. Yoga retreat or not, I’d return to this property for a nice getaway.

Highlights of attending a yoga retreat on Isla Holbox in particular include an unforgettable town full of street art and cutting-edge Caribbean food, natural sites around the island, and flamingos flying past my balcony each morning. You can't go wrong with that setting.

To make sure that the whole trip, including the travel to get there, was worthwhile, I flew into Cancun early and spent two days exploring the Yucatan. With a strong concentration of ruins and cenotes all around Cancun and Tulum, the full Yucatan yoga retreat experiences was both full of health and an awesome vacation.

JoanneMatson.com

MOUNTAIN TREK FITNESS RETREAT & HEALTH SPA AINSWORTH HOT SPRINGS, BC An award-winning wellness retreat in the beautiful Kootenay mountains of BC, Canada, is focused on rebooting both your life and your fitness levels. The daily health regime includes sunrise yoga, mountain hikes, nutritional lectures, spa cuisine, and hydrotherapy to detox both mind and body. This is a life-changing wellness experience. mountaintrek.com

CHICABRAVA SURF CAMP SAN JUAN DEL SUR, NICARAGUA This comprehensive surf instruction program was founded by six-time Nicaraguan surf champ Ashley Blaylock, and combines surf and yoga to curate the ideal beachside retreat in sunny Nicaragua. Women from around the world stay in beautiful accommodations while learning or bettering their surf technique. chicabrava.com TWIST | 45

LA PEARL LAGUNA LAGUNA BEACH, USA

MANDALA DE MASCA MALLORCA, SPAIN

The Pearl Laguna is an intimate wellness retreat located in one of Southern California’s most idyllic settings: Laguna Beach. This twelvebedroom twelve bath sanctuary offers week-long and multiple-week retreats. Combining a cleansing diet with three core activities: yoga, hiking, and meditation. Each day’s activities are thoughtfully conceived, so that they flow into and complement the next, creating a powerful whole that will leave you refreshed. thepearllaguna.com

Mandala de Masca is a dedicated yoga retreat centre developed by yogis for yogis. Their unique and breath-taking private mountain terrain is situated in a beautiful valley on the Canary island of Tenerife. They have retreats you can join or they can host a private group, building you a custom retreat. mandalademasca.com

WILD SOL RETREATS UTAH, USA Wild SOL Retreats takes a soul-based approach for engaging people in outdoor adventures. From cliffs and canyons to river running, Wild SOL Retreats has a host of experienced guides to take you on the Moab adventure you're looking for. While you're there, you'll indulge in your fill of yoga, rock climbing, canyoning, SUP, meditation and more. Their mission is to cultivate conscious, mindful and soul-directed connection between self, community and nature. wildsolretreats.com

46 | TWIST

YEOTOWN NORTH DEVON, U.K. Located in the picturesque British countryside of North Devon, Yeotown is a luxury wellness retreat that focuses on your state of mind as much as your body. This is not the place to come for a quick-fix weight loss treatment (you’ll find no colonics here, fortunately!) but rather a rural escape where you can focus on your overall wellbeing.

Yeotown’s signature course is the ‘Yeotox’, a five-day health and fitness programme that runs from Wednesday to Sunday. Every day follows a similar pattern with an energising morning yoga session followed by a fast-paced hike

along coastal paths (walks take place no matter the weather). In the afternoon, trainers get you moving with a variety of cardio and core sessions, which are followed by group meditation class. When I visited, a guided meditation and gong bath were just two of the sessions we enjoyed. Every day ends with a muscle-melting massage from a local therapist. During the summer months, surfing, coasteering and sea kayaking are additionally included in the regular program.

The menu, which is dairy, wheat, gluten, caffeine, meat and alcoholfree is exceptionally good (although you may find yourself wanting a second helping at times!) and there are herbal teas aplenty to aid with your detox. One of the best things about Yeotown, however, is that everyone is welcome, no matter your age or fitness level. The maximum number of guests is 12 and we had a very eclectic, but very enjoyable, group during my stay. It is ideal if you need some time out to unwind, to recharge and to simply focus on yourself for a few days and I can guarantee that you will leave feeling lighter in both body and mind. yeotown.com

RANCHO LA PUERTA

SANDPEARL RESORT Stunning sunsets, yoga for kids, s’mores on the beach, Astronomy Night, and more make this a truly family experience. sandpearl.com

Nature hikes, fresh foods, pool games, family fitness, and art classes? Sign us up for this annual family week in August!

RanchoLaPuerta.com

AMANYARA Yoga, pilates, soccer and lacrosse programs for the whole family? Yes, and all in the tranquil luxury of the Turks and Caicos right next to a nature reserve. aman.com

TIERRA MAGNIFICA Spanish Family Camp is the place to relax and practice your Spanish in Costa Rica along with yoga, surf, and dancing. tierramagnifica.com

PLAYA VIVA

g n i Br s d i K e th

Sleep in a tree house? Yes please! Bring the family to release baby turtles, surf, kayak, scuba, practice yoga and volunteer at local schools in Mexico. playaviva.com

TWIST | 47

Sonnenalp Hotel, Colorado

FAVORITES

Hotels

Mii amo, Arizona

WELLNESS HOTELS AND RESORTS WE LOVE TO UNWIND IN Whether you're craving a much-needed mental health getaway or a much-earned wellness retreat, autumn is a perfect time to slow down, let yourself unwind after a busy summer, and indulge in a little 'me time'. With the kids back in school and activities, take advantage of the shoulder season (and its discounted prices) to soak in a sauna, feel the burn in a curated workout, taste the simplicity of whole foods cooking, and breathe deeply of fresh, mountain or desert air. Whichever wellness hotel you decide to make your personal retreat this fall, may we just join you in saying, namaste!

RANCHO LA PUERTA, MEXICO

By Keryn Means, WalkingOnTravels.com

SONNENALP HOTEL, COLORADO

By Amy Whitley, Pitstopsforkids.com

MII AMO, ARIZONA

By Susan Lanier-Graham, WanderwithWonder.com

ADLER THERMAE SPA, ITALY

By Andrea Fellman, WanderlustLiving.com

CANYON RANCH, CALIFORNIA

By Kara Williams, TheVacationGals.com TWIST | 49

MEXICO

Rancho La Puerta Oh goodness, were those my abs? No, surely I had felt them before now? I was working out four times a day at Rancho La Puerta, after all, and I felt amazing. Calm even.

Most likely, it was because no one is saying 'mommy' over and over again like an episode of Family Guy.

In addition to hikes, there are fitness classes for every skill level and interest at the Ranch. Yoga and Pilates became my morning routine with an intense cardio class just before lunch. My afternoons were spent trying out different types of classes I had never experienced before.

Rancho La Puerta is a magical place where you can focus in on yourself, work on clearing out the toxins you’ve been putting in your body (Oreos anyone?) and getting healthy. One week is the average stay, although you will find guests who have been there for two, three and even four weeks in a row.

The Ranch encourages you to push outside of your comfort zone, try something new and not let the person next to you intimidate you. Chances are they have no idea what they are doing either.

Your first trip to Rancho La Puerta can be intimidating.

There is so much to know, so many classes to look over and figure out which are right for you. Then there are all of the extras: the spa, cooking classes, hikes, Pilates, etc.

You can become overwhelmed quickly.

Several hikes are offered each morning at the Ranch, and due to the hot desert sun, the staff at the Ranch believes a morning hike is the perfect way to start the day. At first I balked at the morning hikes. Why in the world would I get up at 6 am when my children weren’t there to wake me up? I skipped the first day. By day two I was already up, having gone to bed at 8 pm the night before, so I figured I would go on the short 7 am hike. It didn’t take any time to find my stride, and I arrived at breakfast ready to tackle my day in a happier frame of mind.

50 | TWIST

All meals and snacks are included in your stay at Rancho La Puerta. Breakfast and lunch are buffet style, while dinner is a sit-down affair with servers. Everything is perfectly portioned for a set number of calorie intake, so you get a healthy serving. There was only one night during my five-night stay that I felt I needed more food. I simply asked for a little bread, which was some of the best bread I have ever had!

ADDRESS Carretera Tecate-Tijuana K.M 136.5, Rancho la Puerta, 21520 Tecate, B.C., Mexico WEB SITE rancholapuerta.com/ STARTING PRICE $3700/week

Photos courtesy of Rancho La Puerta; Sonnenalp Hotel

BY KERYN MEANS • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

COLORADO

Sonnenalp Hotel

BY AMY WHITLEY • AMYWHITLEY.COM

Step into the Sonnenalp, a Leading Hotels of the World property in Vail, Colorado, and immediately, whatever travel baggage you brought with you after an early morning flight or long drive will disappear as swiftly as your actual suitcases at the capable hands of the valet team.

This renowned property, which has been in the same family for four generations, has a very understated and timeless style of luxury and service that instantly relaxes.

From the moment you drive into the porte-cochère to the concierge staff only a text away, at The Sonnenalp, it’s all about quietly and efficiently serving.

While beautiful, the Sonnenalp exhibits a cozy Bavarian elegance, not a flashy or sleek luxury vibe. Inside, the long halls with meandering staircases with wooden handrails call to mind a European ski chalet; in fact, in some parts of the hotel, I truly would mistake my location for the Alps.

The European-style spa is perhaps the shining jewel, with its 10,000 square feet accessible for all guests, including children. When you enter the spa area, you’re invited into the large space that houses a 360-degree fireplace with sunken seating, a full bar (with oxygen bar), and the indoor pool and hot tub. Off of this room are the men’s and women’s locker rooms, sauna, steam rooms, and fitness center, and out the inviting glass doors by the pool, the outdoor section of the pool and two additional outdoor hot tubs await.

The result is a very cozy, warm space for families to gather apres-ski or anytime. For adults, complimentary yoga classes are held here almost daily, as well as personal training services. My aromatherapy massage was one of the best I’ve ever had, made even more relaxing in the knowledge that my kids could be having fun in the pools.

ADDRESS 20 Vail Road, Vail Colorado WEB SITE sonnenalp.com STARTING PRICE $320 USD/night

The Sonnenalp has multiple restaurants onsite, and of course, you’re in the heart of the Vail Village, so many additional restaurants are within walking distance.The cozy King’s Club, with bar, a ‘living room’ type space, and even a library, is the place to start your evening with a drink during their happy hour. It’s also the place to return later in the evening for live music. A must do is Swiss Chalet, Sonnenalp’s nod to Alpine cuisine, with fondue and raclette, and for the most casual dining option, head to Bully Ranch, the hotel’s Western-themed restaurant.

While Sonnenalp may be best known for fondue dinner, their breakfast buffet, held daily at Ludwig’s, is in danger of outshining it all. This gourmet buffet has something for everyone, including hot dishes, granolas, fresh fruits, berries, cheese spreads, bagels and lox, smoked salmon, artisan breads, and more.

Onsite activities range from a kids' club to yoga to adult snowshoe expeditions, and of course, the Sonnenalp's location in the heart of Vail Village means you can be on the ski slopes in minutes.

Families can enjoy comfortable lodging in Sonnenalp's two-level Mountain Suites, laid out with a living space and wet bar below and bedrooms above. Most of Sonnenalp's lodging options are comprised of suite-style configurations, making it ideal for families who need space to spread out.

TWIST | 51 TWIST | 51

ARIZONA

Mii amo

BY SUSAN LANIER-GRAHAM • WANDERWITHWONDER.COM

Mii amo, which means 'one’s path or journey', isn’t your typical day spa. You can definitely book an a la carte experience, but the real treasure is an immersive journey.

These customized, 3-, 4-, or 7-night all-inclusive experiences include your stay, three amazing meals each day, two spa services daily, and use of all the facilities: indoor and outdoor pools, steam room, sauna, whirlpool, fitness center, classes, workshops, and hiking. I opted for the 3-night journey, which included two 90-minute and four 60-minute services.

After you select a journey length and date, you pick a focus, or intention, and then answer a detailed questionnaire about your goals. You can select a designated Mii amo Journey™ or pick and choose to create your own. With the help of my spa consultant, I designed a customized experience.

Each private room is a retreat, with a large patio and fireplace. Gifts await each guest: a signature blue robe, water bottle, and note summarizing the intentions for the journey.

At a casual 'meet and greet' in the library, I discovered a small group of other men and women who were all there for different reasons. The stories were so varied: two lifelong friends on a relaxing retreat; a couple on an anniversary excursion; the woman trying to overcome her grief after losing her mother; the woman seeking out a new path after overcoming a life-changing illness and divorce. The interaction with the other guests helped create my unique spa experience.

52 | TWIST

There is also plenty of time for the presentations and activities. Depending on the day, you can enjoy cooking demos, organic gardening, wine tastings, wellness workshops, photography, and hear about the Native American history of Boynton Canyon.

Mii amo journeys are all-inclusive and you can indulge on a seasonal menu that changes every few days. The Juice Bar is open throughout the day, serving up smoothies, energy drinks, coffee, wines, and cocktails.

During my time at Mii amo, I had massages, a session in Reiki healing, past life regression, and a consultation to help me understand how to bring more Ayurvedic concepts into my life. I took a vortex walk, went stargazing, and sat in on guided meditations. There is also ample time to sit alone for quiet reflection.

When I made my way to the grotto my last night for the departure ritual, I realized my pace had slowed down. For me, like most guests, I felt transformed after my time at Mii amo. I might travel the world, but surrounded by the Red Rocks of Sedona, just two hours from Phoenix, I discovered the most amazing life journey of all.

ADDRESS 525 Boynton Canyon Rd, Sedona, AZ 86336 WEB SITE miiamo.com/ STARTING PRICE $319/night

Photos courtesy of Enchantment Group; Adler Thermae Spa

I fell in love with Mii amo, a destination spa set amid Boynton Canyon and the Red Rocks of Sedona, Arizona, when I visited it briefly for a single spa treatment a few years ago. Ever since, going for a Mii amo spa journey had long been on my bucket list.

ITALY

Adler Thermae Spa

BY ANDREA FELLMAN • WANDERLUSTLIVING.COM

Located among the beautiful rolling hills of Tuscany and only about an hour away from Florence, Adler Thermae is a five-star luxury spa that offers families a chance to escape the crowds in Rome, Florence and Venice to spend some time soaking under the Tuscan sun, literally.

Adler Thermae is located in the town of Bagno Vignoni, a UNESCO heritage site. Bagno Vignoni lies on the Via Francigena, one of Europe’s most important medieval pilgrim routes. It was known as a popular place to rest, due to the fact that the town’s public bath had healing waters.

Adler Thermae is just a short five-minute walk to the center of Bagno Vignoni where you can see the original bath and buildings from this popular medieval town.

Adler Thermae has created a beautiful modern thermal spa with a variety of pools, saunas, steam rooms and relaxation areas for guests to immerse themselves in this tranquil setting, surrounded by iconic views of Tuscany. Not only is this a place for rejuvenation and relaxation but a resort that encourages exercise with a wide range of resort activities that the entire family can participate in.

"The thermal waters of Bagno Vignoni take their curative powers from the depths of the earth. The rain seeps down to the deeper levels, is warmed in the process and dissolves minerals and sulphur compounds from the limestone rock. At a depth of about one thousand metres, the water comes into contact with hot volcanic strata, where it is warmed further, enriched with valuable substances and forced up to the surface again at a temperature of 50°C." Adler offers bike tours, hiking, horseback riding, golf, wine tastings and a tour of their organic farm. They also have a variety of yoga and fitness classes and a basketball court.

For children aged four and above, they can participate in the AKI Kids Club. There is a full day program filled with fun games and activities (including lunch and evening meal) provided from 9.30 am to 10 pm daily, allowing parents to take advantage of the spa's romantic atmosphere as well.

Adler Thermae is an Italian oasis that caters to active families that want to experience more on their vacation then just the crowded tourist sites.

ADDRESS Str. di Bagno Vignoni, 1, 53027 San Quirico D'orcia SI, Italy WEB SITE adler-thermae.com/en/ STARTING PRICE $350 US/night

TWIST | 53

ARIZONA

Canyon Ranch

BY KARA WILLIAMS • THEVACATIONGALS.COM

Canyon Ranch is located in the Sonoran Desert beneath the Catalina Foothills northeast of Tucson. The adobe buildings at Canyon Ranch are set amid colorful desert flowers, rock gardens and giant saguaro cacti. My doublebedded room was furnished in traditional rustic pine wood and the overall decor featured plenty of brown and rust tones.

The spa facilities are Canyon Ranch are expansive. In fact, you could easily spend a few hours just hanging out in the women’s locker room, given the multiple showers, steam room, cooler 'inhalation room', different hot tubs and relaxation areas. Naturally, the spa services are sublime. Soon after my arrival, I sampled the Muscle Melt for Road Warriors, which included warm herbal pouches pressed into muscles to release tension that often builds up after any travel day.

The variety of food options at Canyon Ranch sets the destination spa apart from other spas that have prescribed menus each day. There are two different restaurants for your included three meals daily. With the all-inclusive set-up, you can eat as much or as little as you’d like. Not once did any Canyon Ranch staff member look at me askance when I asked for more of anything.

54 | TWIST

From about 7 am when the outdoor morning walks begin, you can find some way to be active at Canyon Ranch. I particularly enjoyed Muscle Max, Zumba and a gentle, late-afternoon stretch class. I wish I had more time for the group fitness offerings.

Still more ways to get active: hikes in the foothills, bike rides for all levels, a full gym filled with strength-training and cardio equipment, plus a high-ropes adventure course, tennis, golf and underwater treadmills. While some of the fitness options do cost extra, I didn’t spend a cent on 'extra' offerings and got great workouts daily.

Metaphysical offerings at Canyon Ranch include tarot card readings, handwriting analysis and numerology.

Cooking, poetry and art classes, bird walks, meditation, genealogy consultation, medical diagnostic tests, anger management tips and body composition analysis are still more events and services available to guests here.

Bottom Line: Book a stay at Canyon Ranch with the knowledge that you can’t possibly fit in all there is to do in one week’s time. Go with an open mind, try new things, and choose from different options and then mark your weekly schedule with what you’ll sample next time!

ADDRESS 8600 E Rockcliff Rd, Tucson, AZ 85750 WEB SITE canyonranch.com/tucson/ STARTING PRICE $1500 US/ per night

Photos courtesy of Canyon Ranch

One of the pioneers and true leaders in destination spas worldwide, Canyon Ranch in Tucson, Arizona, is a bucketlist locale for true spa aficionados. My three-night stay was too short, given the array of options for spa treatments, fitness classes, outdoor adventure, lectures, classes, and metaphysical journeys (tarot card reading, anyone?) available to guests. One could book a week’s visit to Canyon Ranch Tucson and not possibly cover all there is to do here.

photo credit: Karilyn Owens/NoBackHome.com

Spotlight

ON JAPAN

JAPAN 101

TOKYO AND KYOTO

JAPAN IN WINTER

HOME COOKING

Everything you need to know to start planning your trip to Japan with your kids, from which season to go, food, accommodations and more.

Must-do itineraries for Japan's most iconic cities await! You won't want to skip anything on your adventure through the land of the rising sun.

Think you should only go to Japan to see the famed cherry blossoms? Think again! This country has many reasons to visit in winter.

It's time to step out of your normal dining routine to make handmade noodles and introduce the kids to a new palate of flavors.

TWIST | 55

JAPAN 101

BY KARILYN OWENS • NOBACKHOME.COM

Japan is one of the most unique countries in the world, a place where tradition and modernity are part of one continuum. In no other country can you be fully immersed in ancient culture mere steps away from the modern world of innovative high-tech life.

With over 3000 islands, planning a trip to this small country can be overwhelming for first time visitors.

WHEN TO GO

Japan is a wonderful year-round destination; however weather-wise, we recommend spring or autumn. Spring is the most popular time to visit because it is when the beautiful sakura or cherry blossoms come into season, blanketing the country in colorful blooms. Autumn is also a lovely time to visit, especially for hiking and other outdoor activities with fewer crowds.

Winters are cold and summers are hot, but they are both still accessible depending on what you hope to do. For instance, many visitors in Asia flock to Japan for their amazing ski resorts.

GETTING AROUND

One of the best parts of travel in Japan is the ease of train travel, both in and between cities.

Within Tokyo, purchase a Pasmo or Suica prepaid card to get around quickly and easily.

These cards can be purchased at the airport, ticket offices at train stations or from vending machines at subway or JR stations in Tokyo.

They can also be used at the local convenience stores too if you need to use up your card cash before heading home.

If you plan to travel between cities, the Japan Rail (JR) Pass can save you time and money.

The pass can only be purchased outside of Japan by visitors on a tourist visa, so you will need to do this before you leave home. The JR Pass comes in 7 day, 14 day and 21 day increments. Don’t miss out on your chance to ride on one of the world's fastest trains, the famous Shinkansen.

56 | TWIST

WHERE TO STAY

ADDITIONAL TIPS

HOTELS: In larger cities like Tokyo and Kyoto, check out business hotels, as they often offer special deals and free WiFi, and are located conveniently near train stations. Tip: Hotel rooms are often quite small, so pack as light as you can.

TOILETS: You will come away from Japan a toilet connoisseur. Most include heated seats, music, and water spray options; it will be fun to go to the restroom!

RYOKAN: Ryokan, the traditional Japanese guest house, offers a unique accommodation experience where you sleep on futons on tatami mats on the floor. Here guests will be provided with traditional robes to fully immerse yourself in this ancient culture.

ONSEN: If a hotel or guesthouse is available with an onsen, don’t pass it up! Having access to the popular Japanese pastime of soaking in hot springs is a must-do experience in Japan.

CAPSULE HOTELS: On a budget and want even more of an experience? Consider staying in one of Japan’s many capsule hotels, which are roughly the size of a single bed!

MACHIYA AND OTHER RENTALS: If you want to stay put for a few days, look into renting a traditional Machiya or Japanese townhouse. This will give you access to a kitchen, multiple bedrooms, and even laundry facilities.

VENDING MACHINES: Vending machines are everywhere from street corners to restaurants. It is not unheard of to go an entire meal without having to speak to another person.

TRAIN ETIQUETTE: Even though the trains are usually packed, no one speaks on them. Expect stunning silence.

CULTURE VS. TRADITION: Japan is quirky, cool and cutting edge all while keeping clear tabs on its roots, culture and traditions.

ATM MACHINES: If you can't find an ATM that accepts your card, try the post office. More often than not their ATMs will work with international cards.

FOOD: The food can seem unusual, especially for kids. Try eating out at Japanese restaurants at home before your trip. When in doubt, get your kids used to eating white rice. It is an easy staple to order at many restaurants.

Other than that, just be adventurous and try new things!

TWIST | 57

WHERE TO GO IN JAPAN

BY KARILYN OWENS • NOBACKHOME.COM Regardless of whether you go to Japan for one week or one month, there is no shortage of things to do and see for everyone in the family. The classic Japanese itinerary for first timers is Tokyo - Kyoto - Nara - Koya San - Tokyo. This gives visitors time to explore the traditional and modern aspects of the country from massive cities to small towns.

JIGOKUDANI Animal lovers must make an excursion to Jigokudani just outside of Nagano for a visit with the famed Japanese Snow Monkeys. Here you can hang with these amazing animals while they soak in natural hot springs. When you are finished observing them, go back to town to soak in your own traditional onsen.

Plan at least one full day here if your itinerary allows; however it can also be visited as a long day trip from Tokyo.

TOKYO Japan’s capital city, Tokyo, welcomes you to one of the world’s most modern, energizing cities.

Here you can find ancient temples, explore the city’s roots at the massive Tsukiji Fish Market or experience the unique counterculture of Japan in Harajuku. If you are in Tokyo on Sunday, you must visit Yoyogi Park for a festival-like gathering of musicians, comedians, artists and more who all converge here to share their skills. Spend as much time as your itinerary will allow to really explore the many neighborhoods of this fascinating and vibrant city.

HIROSHIMA If you have more time in your itinerary, make your way to the powerful city of Hiroshima to pay homage to those lost in WWII and to see how this once damaged city is now hip, vibrant and full of life.

NARA With its wooded hills, wild deer and some of the world’s oldest wooden buildings, the tranquil city of Nara provides a view into smaller town life with the bonus of beautiful classic architecture. If you are short on time, Nara can be visited as a quick stop en route to Koya San.

KOYA SAN Carrying on higher into the mountains is one of Japan’s most venerated sites. Koya San, a holy Buddhist mountain, attracts millions of pilgrims a year. As a visitor you can experience Buddhist culture first-hand by staying in a local monastery and observing the monks at their traditional morning prayer.

58 | TWIST

KYOTO

TAKAYAN Looking to step back in time? Head to Takayam, a traditional village where the unspoiled Edo-period streets will charm you with their tiny shops, museums and traditional sake brewing.

In Kyoto, you will discover stunning gardens, temples and palaces while keeping an eye out for geishas in the many traditional neighborhoods of Japan’s Imperial capital of more than 1,000 years. Must-visits include the torii gates at Fushimi Shrine and the bamboo forest at Arashiyama. Kyoto can be visited in as little as two days, but as with everywhere in Japan, the longer you have, the better.

10

T H I N G S T O D O I N T O K Y O

#1 SEE SHRINES AND TEMPLES Visiting Tokyo's shrines is a wonderful cultural experience. Don’t miss popular ones like Meiji Shrine surrounded by centuries-old trees. We also enjoyed the majestic Sensoji Temple. Remember to follow the etiquette and cleansing rituals before entering these sacred places.

BY MARY PENAFIEL SOLIO • THEWORLDISABOOK.COM

#2 EXPLORE ODAIBA Tokyo Bay’s Odaiba is a man-made island housing a popular shopping and entertainment district with a Ferris wheel, indoor theme parks, museums, LEGOLAND Discovery Center and several malls.

Parents and their children will be entertained for hours, and that's not counting shopping time. #3 VISIT ANIMAL CAFES Tokyo offers cafes to dine and play with various animals. It started with cat cafes but has expanded to some wild interactions with animals from owls and penguins to a wide variety of birds. Perhaps most inviting, there are dog lovers’ cafes where you can rent a dog for an hour to walk in the park. Of note: Please carefully look into each café’s reviews of ethical animal treatments.

#4 STROLL THE PARKS Look for green spaces sprinkled amidst Tokyo’s concrete jungle. Imperial Palace Gardens is a family-favorite with sprawling grassy areas, koi ponds, old castle grounds and museums. #5 VIEW TOKYO FROM ABOVE Go up to the Municipal Government Building’s 45th floor to see the panoramic views. Both north and south towers have observation rooms for FREE. #6 GO SHOPPING Shopping in Tokyo is unrivaled with trendy fashion, quirky products, state-of-the-art electronics and Japanese crafts. Ginza is Tokyo’s shopping mecca. Its main street becomes a pedestrian zone during the weekends.

#7 EAT Tokyo is one of the best cities for dining, especially if your family loves sushi or ramen. There are many choices from fast food chains to restaurants with sushi conveyor belts (a big hit with kids). For a unique experience, head to the world’s biggest fish market, Tsukiji, and see over 400 seafood varieties.

#8 DISNEY PARKS

Tokyo Disneyland is a 115acre theme park at the Tokyo Disney Resort in Urayasu, Chiba Prefecture.

It's very easy to access by train, and kids familiar with the US theme parks will enjoy making cultural comparisons.

#9 WALK SHIBUYA Tokyo’s version of New York’s Times Square is bright, busy and filled with many shopping, dining and entertainment options.

Though, it’s most known for Shibuya Crossing which is the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection. #10 TOKYO DAY TRIPS Kamakura is a historic city filled with beautiful temples and shrines. My kids’ favorite part was seeing the Great Buddha and even going inside it.

Hakone is another popular option that offers an openair museum, hot springs, scenic cable car rides, and if you’re lucky, the chance to see Mt. Fuji up close.

TWIST | 59

3 D A Y S I N H I S T O R I C K Y O T O

BY KERYN MEANS • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

DAY ONE: GION While Tokyo can be a bit overwhelming for some, Kyoto is the laid back neighbor to the south that offers just as much to do, without the crowds or flashing lights of her big sister to the north.

A tangled history of intrigue, geishas, temples and some of the most stunning gardens ever created make it easy for families with kids of all ages to explore the mostly flat terrain of the city.

Book a flight to Osaka and hop on the hour-long train ride to Kyoto (there is no airport in the city). You can easily spend a week exploring this beautiful city, rich with food, culture and gardens, but if you only have three days, you will want to prioritize your visit.

60 | TWIST

Walk the streets of Gion, the district made famous for geisha and miko.

Notable attractions to check out on your stroll include Yasui Kompira-gu Shrine and Kennin-ji Temple. End your journey at the top of the hill at Kiyomizu-dera for epic views of Kyoto and the hills the city is framed so beautifully against.

DAY TWO: GARDENS There are three gardens you don't want to skip when you are in Kyoto: Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavilion), Ginkaku-ji (The Silver Pavilion) and the Ryoan-ji Temple's dry rock garden. Each shows the depth and beauty that is involved in Japanese landscape design. All have influenced modern gardens in some way.

DAY THREE: DAY TRIP Take the train to Fushimi-Inari to hike through thousands of torii gates. These famous orange gates were constructed in honor of the god of rice, often thought of the patron of business. Each gate was put up by a business. Pack a picnic lunch or grab noodles at the little stand part way up the hill.

BEST

REASONS

TO VISIT

JAPAN IN

WINTER

BY AMIE O’SHAUGHNESSY • CIAOBAMBINO.COM

Every season in Japan is distinct and beautiful, but winter is an underappreciated time to visit. Seeing snow-covered villages and mountains in the winter is truly spectacular, and there are unique adventures that can only be done in the colder months, like seeing snow monkeys frolic in the hot springs and skiing in the mountains. Plus, winter is low season for tourism, and although Japan overall is expensive, it will be a better value this time of year than in peak periods like spring.

Afterward, depending on how many days are left in the trip, you can venture farther afield on the island of Honshu. Ski enthusiasts can add a few days on the slopes in and around Nagano, which was home to the 1998 Winter Olympics. About 45 minutes away from Nagano by train is Jigokudani, a walk-in nature preserve in the mountains that’s home to Japan’s snow monkeys, and the only place in the world where you can see them taking a dip in natural hot springs. Visitors can get very close to the creatures and watch them run and play with one another (baby monkeys are particularly popular with the tourist paparazzi!).

For truly serious skiers, a trip to Niseko in Hokkaido, much farther north in Japan, is a must. It requires quite a bit of travel from Honshu (a flight plus a drive), but Niseko is reported to have some of the best snow in the world and is home to numerous onsens, Japan's famous hot-springs resorts.

Alternatively, Hakone is famous for its hot springs and traditional inns. It’s an easy few-night getaway from Tokyo for families who don’t have time to get to one of the ski resorts. Hakone offers incredible views of Mt. Fuji and an amazing cable car up the mountain to see spectacular vistas over the area.

TIP: A Hakone Pass offers full access to local public transportation, including the cable car; discounts on activities; and access to the popular pirate ship sightseeing cruise on Lake Ashi.

Photo by Karilyn Owens

The number of travel days you have will determine the number of stops in your winter itinerary, but the bullet train makes getting around Japan extremely efficient.

It’s possible to pack a lot in! Here are a few top ideas to make the most of your time.

At a minimum, first-time travelers to Japan should visit Tokyo and Kyoto. One advantage to exploring Tokyo in winter is cool weather instead of the blistering heat of summer. From strolls through quirky shopping areas like Akihabara paired with visits to themed cafes like the Robot Restaurant, there are countless experiences that are unique to Japan and so fun to experience with kids in winter. Similarly, Kyoto has an incredible variety of immersive experiences. Ciao Bambino! Family Vacation Advisor and Japan expert Melissa Smith spent a day in a family home making mochi, sharing smiles and stories.

TWIST | 61

JAPANESE FOOD ... a t H o m e

BY RACHAEL HUTCHINGS • LAFUJIMAMA.COM

FALLING IN LOVE I have always loved to eat and cook, but it wasn’t until I moved to Japan for the first time twelve and a half years ago that I began to truly appreciate the art and craft of food. I began to understand that eating is a multi-dimensional experience– a balance of the quality of the food itself and the expertise used to prepare it, but also of its presentation and service. I learned to better appreciate subtlety in flavor, an art that Japanese chefs spend lifetimes working to perfect. I learned that traditional Japanese culture pays meticulous attention to seasons, and not just winter, spring, summer and fall, but also to smaller distinct seasons within the four main seasons. The season is often invoked, from the seasonality of ingredients used, to garnishes evocative of the moment, from what dishware is used to serve the food, to the décor in the room the food is served in. I learned that the dining experience should be a visual one, not just from the standpoint of preparing the food beautifully, but also in the use of different colors, shapes, glazes, and textures in the dishes used and how the dishes are arranged on the table.

62 | TWIST

My experiences with food in Japan have changed the way I cook in my own kitchen. I have learned that simplicity can be more elegant and refined when used correctly and that subtle flavors can pay homage to an ingredient. I am learning to edit what I include in a recipe and what ultimately goes on the plate. I try to pay more attention to the seasons, seeking to learn more about where my food comes from, how it is grown, and when it is most delicious, and incorporate more seasonal references in my cooking. I try to use more texture and color in what I cook and how I serve it. I have moved away from the Western style of matching dishware to looking for pieces that will compliment other things on the table and add to the visual appeal. I am inspired by the beauty and complexity of Japanese cuisine, the devotion of its practitioners to their craft, and the dedication to giving customers a whole eating experience.

KAKE UDON 6 3/4 cups dashi 1 batch udon noodles (recipe on page 64, or enough store bought noodles for four servings) finely sliced scallions, to taste shichimi togarashi or chili powder, to taste (optional)

for the mentsuyu sauce: 1 cup water 2 cups soy sauce 1 1/2 cups mirin 2 tbsp granulated sugar 1.8 oz katsuobushi (dried fish flakes) 1. Make the mentsuyu sauce: In a large pot, combine the water, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low, and add the katsuobushi. When the mixture comes to a boil again, turn off the heat and let the mixture stand for two minutes. Then strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve, or a sieve lined with a double layer of cheesecloth, and discard the katsuobushi. Pour the mentsuyu into a sterilized container.

(It will keep for approximately three to four days safely in the refrigerator.)

2. Separate the udon noodles into four separate deep bowls.

3. Mix the dashi with 1/3 cup of the prepared mentsuyu and heat over high heat. When the mixture comes to a boil, turn the heat off and pour it over the udon noodles. Sprinkle with scallions and shichimi togarashi, to taste and serve.

HANDMADE NOODLES ARE LIKE HOMEMADE BREAD...THEY ARE SO MUCH BETTER THAN THE STORE BOUGHT VERSION. TWIST | 63

HOW TO MAKE UDON Makes four servings

INGREDIENTS 4 tsp salt 8 oz (1 cup) warm water 2 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour 1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour bread flour, for dusting (in step 6)

DIRECTIONS 1. Add the salt to the warm water and stir until it has dissolved. Put the bread flour and all-purpose flour in a large bowl, and whisk the flours together.

2. Pour the salty water into the bowl with the flour. Using your hands, mix the flour and water together lightly until the mixture is crumbly. Pull the dough up from the bottom of the bowl and press down, and repeat until the flour and water are well combined and a rough ball is formed.

3. Take the dough out of the bowl and knead it forcefully on a board for 5-10 minutes until the dough has smoothed out and a lumpy ball is formed.

4. Transfer the dough to a large plastic ziploc bag, and then wrap the bag in a thick towel. Put it on the floor and walk on it with flat feet (not just the heel). Turn as you walk, so that all the dough gets flattened. When the dough feels flat, remove the dough from the bag and roll it out.

Fold it up, put it back into the bag and repeat the process.

The dough should become more and more smooth with each repeat. Repeat three or four times. On the last repeat, leave the dough in the bag, wrapped in the towel.

Let it rest for three to four hours (during the winter, leave it in a warm place).

64 | TWIST

5. When the dough is done resting, take it out of the bag, reshape it into a ball, then return it to the bag and walk on it one last time. Try to spread the dough with your feet, turning around 360 degrees.

6. Dust your work surface with a bit of bread flour, then place the flattened dough on top and roll it out, working from the middle out. Rotate the dough 45 degrees and repeat until the dough is about 1/8-inch thick, and approximately a rectangle measuring about 1 foot wide by at least 1 1/2 feet long.* 7. Dust the top of the dough with bread flour and then fold it into thirds. Using a long sharp knife, cut the dough into 1/4-inch to 1/8-inch thick ribbons. If the dough gets very sticky, dust it again with bread flour. Dust the noodles with bread flour before moving them from the work surface.

8. Cook the noodles: fill a large pot with water and bring to a rapid boil. Lightly shake any excess flour from the noodles and add them to the boiling water. Using cooking chopsticks, or a wooden spoon, stir the noodles to prevent them from sticking to each other. Cook the noodles for 6– 7 minutes, or until they are translucent and firm without a hard core. Drain the noodles in a sieve and rinse under cold running water so they cool rapidly.

9. Once the noodles are cool enough to handle, separate them with your hands and rinse them again in cold water to make sure that all of the starch is removed. *Rolled out dough can be wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to two weeks.

Bring the dough to room temperature before sprinkling it with flour and continuing on with step 7.

MISO KATSU

6 boneless pork chops, each about one-inch thick salt and freshly ground black pepper, for seasoning all-purpose flour for dredging 2 large eggs, beaten with 4 teaspoons cold water panko (Japanese bread crumbs), for coating vegetable oil, for deep-frying 3 cups very finely shredded green cabbage lemon wedges Miso Katsu Sauce (recipe below) steamed Japanese rice 1. Place a pork chop between two layers of plastic wrap and pound it with the flat side of a meat tenderizer until it is about 1/3 inch thick. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Repeat the process with the remaining pork chops.

2. Heat two inches of vegetable oil in a deep-fryer, stockpot, or large wok until the oil reaches 375 degrees Fahrenheit.

3. While the oil is heating, lightly dust the seasoned pork chops in the flour. Dip them, one at a time, in the egg wash, then coat each of them well with the panko.

4. When the oil is at temperature, fry the chops, two at a time, for about 3 minutes. Then turn them and fry them for another 3 or 4 minutes, until they are a deep golden brown and cooked through. Place them on a wire rack to drain and repeat with the remaining chops.

5. To serve: Slice the cutlets across their width into 1/2-inch strips. Place each cutlet on top of a mound of shredded cabbage. Drizzle with some of the miso katsu sauce. Serve with steamed Japanese rice and a lemon wedge.

MISO KATSU SAUCE 1/3 cup Hatcho miso or aka miso (red miso) 1/4 cup mirin 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp granulated sugar Mix all the ingredients together in a small saucepan and heat over medium heat, making sure not to let it boil (the miso will become grainy if it boils), until the sauce thickens slightly. Remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside until ready to use. The sauce can be kept in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to five days.

Recipe Notes: If you’re worried about the cutlets getting cold after frying them, keep them in an oven preheated to 180 degrees Fahrenheit until you are ready to serve them. If cooked at the proper temperature, the cutlets should not be oily.

TWIST | 65

YAKISOBA, JAPANESE FRIED NOODLES 3 tbsp vegetable oil 8 oz thinly sliced pork (or thick, uncured bacon), cut into one-inch wide pieces 3 cups shredded savoy cabbage 2 cups bean sprouts 1/2 medium yellow onion, diced 17 oz cooked Chinese egg noodles (yakisoba noodles, sometimes labeled 'chukamen'), at room temperature salt and pepper–to season ao nori (shredded nori seaweed)–to taste beni shoga (julienned red pickled ginger) garnish For the sauce: 1/2 cup ketchup 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsp prepared hot mustard (preferably Japanese, but Colman’s will work too) 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

66 | TWIST

1. Prepare the sauce: whisk together the sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and set aside.

2. Heat one tablespoon of oil in a 12-inch skillet or wok and cook the pork until just barely cooked. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a bowl.

3. Cook the cabbage, bean sprouts, and onion in the same skillet, over medium-high heat until tender, but not browned. While in the process of cooking, drizzle in additional oil as needed.

4. Add the noodles to the skillet. Gently toss them to break them up and incorporate them with the rest of the ingredients. When the noodles have warmed through and are starting to crisp, add the cooked meat and half of the sauce and stir until everything is evenly coated. Add additional sauce until you have reached your desired moisture level. Garnish with a pinch of ao nori and beni shoga (optional) and serve immediately.

BOOKS TO READ BEFORE YOU FLY OFF TO JAPAN

BY ANNA JULIEN • ANNAJULIENPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

Whether you’re planning a trip or simply interested in learning more about Japanese culture, our curated list of books covers all the bases.

From off-the-beaten-path guidebooks to fictional novels, personal memoirs and children’s books, there is something for everyone’s taste. Dive into the culture, cuisine and history of this fascinating country.

PRETTY GOOD NUMBER ONE: AN AMERICAN FAMILY EATS TOKYO

JAPANLAND: A YEAR IN SEARCH OF WA

By Matthew Amster-Burton • Learn the ins and outs of visiting Tokyo as three Americans vacation in a tiny apartment and learn to navigate the bustling city. Burton widely explores the often-misunderstood city of Tokyo through his humorous memoir, leaving very few of Japan's culinary stones unturned.

By Karin Muller • Karin Muller, a documentary filmmaker, spent a year in Japan on a personal quest to deepen her appreciation for ideals like commitment and devotion.

Muller reveals the complexities of modern Japanese culture through her lens as a brilliant storyteller.

SNOW COUNTRY

TOKYO ON FOOT

By Yasunari Kawabata • Nobel Prize Winning author Kawabata writes this riveting tale of wasted love set along the backdrop of Western Japan, featuring Shimamura, a weathy dilettante and Komako, a lowly geisha. It is said to be Kawabata’s literary masterpiece.

By Florent Chavouet • Chavouet, a graphic artist, spent six months exploring and sketching Tokyo.

His creation, a personal and gritty guidebook of the city, includes hand-drawn maps and commentary about the local scene.

MEMOIRS OF A GEISHA

JAPAN, FUNNY SIDE UP

By Arthur Golden • Read the exquisite tale of Sayuri, one of Japan’s most celebrated geisha working in Kyoto, Japan before and after World War II. The historical novel is told in the first person perspective and has been adapted to a highly successful movie.

By Amy Chavez • Veteran Japan Times columnist, Amy Chavez provides a useful and witty guide to navigating Japanese culture. She shares cultural tips, thoughtful essays, and advice on what experiences you should go for and ones to avoid while visiting.

ALL ABOUT JAPAN: STORIES, SONGS, CRAFTS AND GAMES FOR KIDS

By Willamarie Moore • Travel along with two friends, a boy from the country and a girl from the city, as they tour their homeland. Learn interesting details about their homes, families, favorite places, and holiday traditions.

THE TINY TRAVELER: JAPAN: A BOOK OF NATURE

By Misti Kenison • Part of the ‘Tiny Traveler’ series, this book invites toddlers on a journey through Japan. Cherry blossoms, bamboo, and volcanoes are illustrated in beautiful detail and color to keep little ones intrigued.

I LIVE IN TOKYO

By Mari Takabayashi • Follow along with seven-year-old Mimiko’s year – learn how she dresses, eats, and celebrates holidays. Learn Mimiko’s ten favorite Japanese meals and how she lives her life in Tokyo.

DODSWORTH IN TOKYO

By Tim Egan • Dodsworth and the duck are headed to the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ where customs and manners are a large part of the culture. How long the duo will last traveling together in Japan is anyone’s guess!

TWIST | 67

TRAVEL LEMONS THE REAL FACE OF FAMILY TRAVEL

BY AMY WHITLEY • AMYWHITLEY.COM

When our oldest son, Nate, was 15, we decided he was travel-savvy enough to fly unaccompanied. The route: San Francisco to Dallas/Fort Worth, then on to San Jose, Costa Rica. Yep, it was a biggie: a non-direct series of connections through big airports to an international destination. He ultimately proved to us that he was, indeed, ready to travel solo, but what happened on that trip was the equivalent of tossing him into the deep end of the pool to sink or swim. We did not win 'parents of the year' in the process.

When Nate arrived in DFW, he found his connecting gate without a hitch, even though it involved a shuttle ride. He even boarded his second flight without a problem. Go, kid go! However, he never left the tarmac. Yes... his plane experienced mechanical difficulties. He sat on the tarmac for two hours before his plane taxied back to the gate, where he waited several more hours in the terminal.

68 | TWIST

The flight was eventually canceled, and Nate found himself facing the chaos that always comes in the aftermath. He didn’t know to get online and try to book a better flight immediately, and even if he had, he lacked the resources to pay for an upgrade. Confused and alone, he joined the long queue of frustrated travelers for hotel vouchers, only to be told that as a minor, Marriott didn’t want to issue him a room.

He was tired and hungry, and too intimidated at first to ask questions of the airline employees. But then something great happened: with no one to turn to except Mom on the other end of his cell phone, he found his airport shuttle, checked into the hotel that finally approved him, slept, and woke up on time for his 5 am flight. It wasn't the way either of us wanted his first solo flight to go, but I'm proud to say he’s now a seasoned soldier in the battle of air travel.

Have a travel lemons tale? Email us at hello@twisttravelmag.com

Find Us on Instagram #twisttravelmag Can't wait for the next issue? Get inspired by our contributors!

@nadiacarriere @magnoliamamas @amywhitleytravels @worldisabook @atasteofkoko @globetotting @we3travel @lafujimama @nobackhome