Twist Travel Magazine Issue 005 by Twist Travel Magazine

ISSUE 005

LAKE LIFEÂ IN THE USA

THE NETHERLANDS IN BLOOM AWE-INSPIRING ICELAND SPRING STYLE PICKS

EVERYTHING ITALY

DESTINATION SPAS

IF IT EXCITES YOU AND SCARES YOU AT THE SAME TIME, IT PROBABLY MEANS YOU SHOULD DO IT. unknown

editors' note Hello, spring! We have been patiently waiting for you because we have warm places to go and a long list of things to do. Spring brings joy. Everyone just seems so much happier once they can see the light at the end of the long, dark winter tunnel. We hope you all made the most of the colder months, but raise your hand if you are ready to set off and explore in warmer temperatures? Well, then, let's go! We have compiled another issue that is filled with tangible travel ideas and expertise from moms who have gone before you. Whether you are looking for outdoor adventure in Iceland or getting ready to tackle the train systems in Europe, we will kickstart your planning and give you lots of ideas and tips! We have fields of tulips in Amsterdam, the best of Lake Life in the US and even a multi-generational trip to Peru! Our Spotlight on Italy may give you a serious case of trip envy that could have you rethinking your summer plans. This is a fantastic guidebook that we hope helps make your Italian dreams a reality.

ANDREA FELLMAN AND KERYN MEANS EDITORS-IN-CHIEF

Contributors

Allison Waken

Amber Mamian

Amie O'Shaughnessy

Amy Whitley

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ciaobambino.com IG @@ciaobambinotravel

pitstopsforkids.com IG @amywhitleytravels

Brianne Manz

Claudia Laroye

Carrie Beth Posener

Diane Mizota

Â strollerinthecity.com IG @strollerinthecity

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themagnoliamamas.com IG @themagnoliamamas

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Emily Martin

Genevieve Buckmiller

Jen Giambalvo

Jenna Francisco

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Julia Dimon

Jurga Van Steenbergen

Katja Gaskell

Kelley Ferro

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Issue No. 5 STORY BEHIND THE COVER: Seeing the first tulips after a long gray winter always feels

Kirsten Maxwell

Nicole Wiltrout

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special to me. Noticing all the new blooms peeking through a sea of green stems makes you stop and literally want to smell the flowers. It's a beautiful reminder that the chills of winter winds will be another distant memory, and the warmth of summer will soon be here. It's my favorite time of the year in the Low Countries. - Jurga Van Steenbergen Publishers: Keryn Means and Andrea Fellman Editors-in-Chief: Andrea Fellman and Keryn Means Managing Editor: Amy Whitley

Paige Connor Totaro

Rebecca Bernard

Contributing Editors: Claudia Laroye and

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Katja Gaskell Editorial Assistant: Emily Martin and Anna Julien Designer: Keryn Means Design Assistant: Alissa Outwater Cover Photo: Jurga Van Steenbergen For editorial inquiries, please contact: editorial@twisttravelmag.com Sales Offices: Washington, D.C., New York and Barcelona, Spain

Tai Kojro-Badziak

Tamara Gruber

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For advertising inquiries, please contact: sales@twisttravelmag.com Please send all general questions and inquiries to hello@twisttravelmag.com. Find us on the web at www.twisttravelmag.com COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Twist Travel Magazine is published by Twist Travel Company LLC. ©2018 Twist Travel Company LLC. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission of the publisher. Digital issue may

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contain affiliate links. WWW.TWISTTRAVELMAG.COM

P. 14 SPRING SMOOTHIES Sweet flavors that will give you a healthy kick as you shed off those winter layers.

Spring Travel Inspiration 5 | THE TWIST

32 | TULIP HUNTING BEYOND AMSTERDAM

Spring is in the air; are you ready to feel refreshed and ready to tackle new travel destinations?

Always wanted to see the famed tulip fields of the Netherlands for yourself? Here's how!

16 | TRAVEL BUDGET

37 | NOT YOUR AVERAGE ICELAND ROAD TRIP

How to spend one travel budget three ways, from a staycation to the tropics to a trip abroad.

A mom and her three sons tackle the island roads in a camper van and return inspired.

19 | TRAVEL PLANNING 101

42 | LEARNING SPANISH ABROAD WITH KIDS

Are you using your credit cards to your best travel advantage? Learn how to maximize those points!

Combine your next vacation with a language program in a Spanish-speaking country.

20 | WEEKEND WITHOUT THE KIDS: THE OC

45| LAKE LIFE USA

Think Orange County, California, is all about Disney and kid-friendly fun? Discover a new OC!

The summer by the lake is quintessentially American. Here's where to go.

23 | SHE GETS AROUND: PERU

49 | TWIST FAVORITES: HOTEL SPAS

A mother brings her young son and her octogenarian aunt on the trip of a lifetime.

Hotels curated for their spas and kid-friendliness. Who says you can't have both?

27 | RIDE THE EURO RAILS

55 | SPOTLIGHT ON ITALY

The romance of rail travel, with kids in tow, is alive and well across the Continent and the UK.

Dreaming of a family trip to Italy? Our comprehensive guide inspires and informs.

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the

A QUICK GUIDE TO THE SEASON

Spring is here, so I trust you have been really good about staying organized, getting to yoga and finding time for yourself. Right! Okay, well, we all deserve a second chance so now is the perfect time to check back in with your goals and get back on track! The warmer weather and increased days of sunshine are sure to help motivate us all a bit more. Just like the flowers, now is your time to bloom!

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Seasonal Favorites BY GENEVIEVE BUCKMILLER • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

After a cozy and comfort-filled winter, spring is finally here! So let's throw open the windows, let the warm sunshine in and enjoy some new things to give our homes and closets a refresh. Here's what we've been loving this season:

1. Store away heavy comforters now that spring has arrived. Break out the lighter linens like this gorgeous coverlet from Rough Linen, which offers just enough warmth for cool spring nights. These soft coverlets are definitely cuddle-worthy (and splurge-worthy). $325 2. Green is growing all around outdoors, but what about bringing it indoors? Adorn your wall with a print of flowers or a lush landscape. We love this modern snap of Gypsophila, also known as baby's breath, by Marabou Design. Assorted print sizes from minted.com. $23 3. These colorful, durable bowls make a great addition to your kitchen. The perfect size for snacking and stacking, the Anthropologie Latte Bowls Set of six mixes cool hues for a vibrant display on open shelves. $36 6 | TWIST

5 4. Lighten up your living space with a gorgeous new set of throw pillows. Blended colors on Minna's Split Shag Pillow create a soft vignette, and it's neutral enough to integrate into almost any style. $210 5. The smell of fresh flowers is ubiquitous with spring. Nest Fragrances' candles will bring notes of camellia, wisteria, and Indonesian jasmine into your home. $40

The Art of Kokedama BY KERYN MEANS • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

Kokedama, or Japanese moss balls, are a beautiful and easy way to bring nature into your home. Best of all, it's a quick afternoon activity you can do with the kids. Kodedama makes for a great gift anytime throughout the year and are the perfect centerpiece for special occasions.

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MATERIALS: bonsai soil peat moss sphagnum moss small house plants wax twine scissors water INSTRUCTIONS: Soak sphagnum moss in pan of water. Set aside. Combine one cup of bonsai soil and one peat moss in a bowl. Add water until your soil starts to hold together. ASSEMBLING: Shake loose soil off container plant roots. Pack soil mixture around root, forming soil into a ball. Cover plant soil ball with Sphagnum moss. Wrap with wax twine to hold together. KOKEDAMA MAINTENANCE: Keep the moss moist with a spray bottle. Soak your moss ball in water at least once a week for 10-20 minutes. Want to learn more? Watch our video on TwistTravelMag.com/Blog

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Spring is all about new growth and beginnings. It’s also a favorite time to travel. Whether you’re getting your hands dirty in your backyard or backpacking across rolling hills on spring break, this collection of 'farm-to-fork'-themed books is sure to keep you interested. A good mix of instructional texts, cookbooks, mystery novels and even a farmoir – you’re sure to feel ready to tackle the newness of spring after picking up some of these favorite spring titles.

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SPRING READS

BY ALLISON WAKEN • ALLFORTHEBOYS.COM

FOOD TRUTHS FROM FARM TO TABLE: 25 SURPRISING WAYS TO SHOP & EAT WITHOUT GUILT By Michele Payn Written by a farm and food advocate, this book aims to help readers understand how food is really produced. It challenges food critics and shows readers how to translate food marketing and labels.

COUNTRY GRIT: A FARMOIR OF FINDING PURPOSE AND LOVE By Scottie Jones A couple living a suburban professional life decide to buy a farm and begin a farm stay business, then wonder if the grass looks greener on the other side.

THE NOURISHED KITCHEN: FARMTO-TABLE RECIPES FOR THE TRADITIONAL FOODS LIFESTYLE By Jennifer McGruther Featuring bone broths, fermented vegetables, grass-fed meats, wholesome fats, raw dairy and kombucha, this cookbook features beautiful photography and health recipes based on a multitude of vegetables and grains as cooked and preserved on early 20th-century American farms.

WELCOME TO THE FARM: HOW-TO WISDOM FROM THE ELLIOTT HOMESTEAD By Shaye Elliot Active homesteaders and urban-farmers (or wannabes) will enjoy how this book written by a homestead blogger guides them through the beginning stages of small-area farming, utilizing whatever amount of space they have available for optimal food production.

TILL THE COWS COME HOME By Judy Clemens Stella Crown runs her own small Pennsylvania dairy farm happily until a string of mysterious disasters place Stella and her farm, her livestock and even a local child in peril.

SPRING KIDS Picks

BY ANDREA FELLMAN • WANDERLUSTLIVING.COM

Butler Boots The boot that slips on right over your kid's shoe! Good for all weather conditions, Butler boots are lightweight, 100 percent waterproof, and super easy to clean. Made in the USA, non‑toxic and recyclable. We think these are genius. www.thebutlerbrand.com

Nuu Muu The perfect traveling dress for active girls! A dress does not have to be delicate. These dresses are made for the girls who likes to move. Stain, wrinkle and rip resistant! www.nuu-muu.com

Floatimini One of the cutest swimsuit brands for girls we have seen in a long time! We love that these adorable suits have coordinating coverups and sun protection jackets and shirts to go with their cute suits. www.floatimini.com

American Tourister For the little globetrotters that need a suitcase for all their travels. American Tourister's bright colors are a sophisticated answer for the kids who have outgrown the character bags. shop.americantourister.com TWIST | 9

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LAKE HAIR? DON'T CARE! LIVING THE LAKE LIFE AT HOME EVERYDAY BY ANDREA FELLMAN • WANDERLUSTLIVING.COM

SOTA CLOTHING MinneSOTA is the land of 10,000 lakes after all. Therefore, it's no big surprise this clothing company knows a thing or two about living the lake life. Their Minnesota-proud logo is modern and fun and can be seen on sweatshirts for both adults and kids. They also have winter hats, baseball hats, t-shirts, and glassware. www.sotaclothing.com

NORTHERN LIGHTS CANDLES The Northern Lights Candle Company makes designer candles in a variety of scents, but for a cabin in the woods you may be interested in their Spirit Candles like Whiskey & Tabacco and Apple Pie Moonshine. Their hand-poured candles are made in the USA using fine fragrances and essential oils. www.northernlightscandles.com

SACKCLOTH & ASH BLANKETS Founder of Sackcloth & Ashes, Bob Dalton, was inspired to help the homeless population when his mother, a hardworking single mom, found herself living on the streets. Blankets were needed most. For every blanket you purchase, they give a blanket to your local homeless shelter. www.sackclothandashes.com

AWAKE THE SOUL A company that was born while hiking in the outdoors, Awake the Soul makes a line of tshirts that remind you to seek time in the outdoors. They also donate 10 percent of every sale to Generosity.org. www.awakethesoul.com

WILDERNESS SOAP COMPANY A handmade soap company from Canada. These soaps are vegan, palm oil-free and are never tested on animals. Even their soap labels are printed on organic banana paper made from tree-free agricultural bioproducts and consumer-recycled products. The love that goes into these soaps is as natural as it gets. www.wildernesssoapco.com

TINY TRUCKER COMPANY These hats are the perfect solution for a weekend up at the lake, because lake hair, don't care! This mom-owned company creates the coolest hat sets for moms and dads to coordinate with their little explorers. www.tinytruckerco.com TWIST | 11

What to Pack

SPRING TRENDS ROMANtic Details

The TRenCH The classic trench is the easiest way to make your favorite pair of jeans and tshirt look polished. www.freepeople.com

It's all about romantic details and flowy blouses this spring. Florals, lace and feminine trims. www.anthropologie.com

HIGH WAIST The waist has been creeping up for a few seasons now, and we're actually okay with that! www.nordstrom.com

LOVELY LAVENDER Thanks to Pantone's pick for color of the year, Ultra Violet, you'll be seeing all different shades of purple this spring. www.anthropologie.com

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Block Heels They're a little bit retro and modern all at the same time. Block heels are great for travel because they are casual and comfortable. www.freepeople.com

Spring Travel Picks Spring Break • Work Trip • Spring Wedding • Weekend Retreat

Tweed Belted Jacket $215

Gingham Hoodie $79

Layla Wrap Dress $200

Canyonland Tote $175

Deep V Ankle Boot $145

Vintage Pink Backpack $145

Ruffled Halter Swimsuit $115

Vans Satin Lux Sneaker $69

Fleece Wrap Cotton Top $65

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RECIPES

SPRING SMOOTHIE BOWLS

RESET YOUR HEALTH THIS SPRING WITH FRESH CLASSICS

It’s finally spring and summer is right around the corner. No better time to add a little color to your diet. These smoothie bowls are filling, jam packed with your favorite flavors, and make eating healthy something you’ll definitely want to do!

BY JEN GIAMBALVO AND CARRIE BETH POSENER THEMAGNOLIAMAMAS.COM

STRAWBERRY SMOOTHIE BOWL

GREEN SMOOTHIE BOWL

INGREDIENTS

2/3 CUP ALMOND MILK 1 CUP RASPBERRIES 2/3 CUP STRAWBERRIES 3 TBSP GREEK YOGURT 1/4 CUP ICE TO THICKEN (IF USING FRESH FRUIT) OPTIONALTOPPINGS: RASPBERRIES, STRAWBERRIES, SLICED ALMONDS, GRANOLA

1/2 CUP FROZEN MANGO 1/2 CUP FROZEN PINEAPPLE 1/4 CUP GREEK YOGURT 1 CUP SPINACH 1 CUP COCONUT WATER OPTIONAL TOPPINGS: IWI SLICES, DICED PINEAPPLE, SHREDDED COCONUT AND CHIA SEEDS

DIRECTIONS

1. In a high-powered blender, add all ingredients and blend until smooth. 2. Pour smoothie into a bowl and add desired toppings. Serve immediately.

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RECIPES

BLUEBERRY SMOOTHIE BOWL INGREDIENTS

1 CUP ALMOND MILK 1 1/2 CUP BLUEBERRIES 3 TBSP GREEK YOGURT 1 TBSP HONEY ICE TO THICKEN (IF USING FRESH FRUIT) OPTIONAL TOPPINGS: BANANA SLICES, COCONUT FLAKES, BLUEBERRIES

DIRECTIONS

1. In a high-powered blender, add all ingredients and blend until smooth. 2. Pour smoothie into a bowl and add desired toppings. Serve immediately.

TIPS FOR MAKING SMOOTHIE BOWLS: For a thicker smoothie bowl, add ice to your blended mixture. If you prefer a thinner consistency, leave out the ice and add more almond milk. Using frozen fruit over fresh will give you a thicker smoothie and you can leave out the ice.

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WHERE TO GO WITH $1500 THREE DIFFERENT TRIPS, THREE DIFFERENT WAYS

BY PAIGE CONNER TOTARO • ALLOVERTHEMAP.COM

Your major costs for any vacation are transportation, lodging, and meals and activities. It’s important to know where you want to spend your money. Figure out your priorities for getting away, and don't be afraid to mix luxury with budget in the same vacation... it can be done!

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You may not care where you eat, as long as you have a luxurious thread count. Or you may not care where you sleep as long as you can get out into nature. Don’t feel like your vacation has to be all luxury or all budget, either. If you save on some expenses, you can splurge on others.

SPLURGE CLOSE TO HOME FOUR NIGHTS IN WASHINGTON, D.C. If you stay close to home, you save on transportation costs, so you can spend more on lodging and food. Why not book a suite at a local hotel, order room service so no one has to cook (or clean up), and just settle in with movies, games, or an afternoon by the pool? Pretend you’re tourists and do all those things the tourist board recommends but you’ve never managed to do.

photo credit: Keryn Means; Andrea Fellman

In my hometown of Washington, D.C., we can book a Deluxe Room with two double beds and a pull-out sofa at the stylish Kimpton George Hotel on Capitol Hill for about $199 per night. Washington has a good number of expense-account restaurants where lobbyists do their thing over $100 steak lunches, but there are bargains to be found everywhere. You can venture down the street for the best blueberry buckwheat pancakes ever at The Market Lunch, a counter-service spot inside the Eastern Market food hall. Or opt for lunch at one of President Obama’s favorite burger joints, Good Stuff Eatery, for toasted marshmallow milkshakes and Obama Burgers (or Michelle Melts, if you’re so inclined). During the week, food trucks swarm the streets crossing the Mall, offering a variety of cuisines for much less than you would pay in a restaurant. Still, it would be hard to spend less than $100 for a family of four for three meals in a day in D.C.

Many of the museums, including all of the Smithsonian museums, offer free admission, so you’ll save money there. One kid favorite that includes admission cost is the International Spy Museum, but you can often find deals on discount ticket sites. The Museum moves to a new and greatly expanded home in the fall of 2018. Get around the city via the metro using a seven-day short trip pass for just $38.50 per person. If you’re mostly traveling within the downtown area outside of peak travel hours, this can give you considerable savings, even if you only use it for four of the seven days.

TRANSPORTATION $0 (flights) + $154 $154 LODGING 4 x $199 $796 FOOD 4 x $100 $400 ACTIVITIES 4 x Spy Museum Admission $74

TOTAL $1424

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TRANSPORTATION $704 (flights) $6 (rental) + $50 (fuel) $760 LODGING 4 x $129 $516 FOOD 4 x $40 $160 ACTIVITIES $14 (Tulum) $14 (Coba) $36 (entry fees for three cenotes) $64

TOTAL $1500

GO SOMEWHERE AFFORDABLE FOUR DAYS IN TULUM Sometimes it's worth spending a bit on transportation if you can get to a destination where the on-the-ground costs are low. You can get flights to Cancun in Mexico for as little as $176 round trip from Washington. All-inclusive hotels on the beach can run in the hundreds of dollars per night, but a four-star hotel in downtown Cancun is just over $100 per night. Better yet, rent a car for as little as $1 per day and drive a few hours south to trendy Tulum where a family room with breakfast at a boutique hotel with a pool in town runs $129 per night. Stick with street food and local restaurants to spend as little as a few dollars for lunch or dinner, and maybe you’ll save enough to splurge on Eric Werner’s Hartwood or one of the other top restaurants attracting jet-setters to the area. Visiting the Mayan sites of Tulum or Coba is a must, and you can’t leave the Yucatan without swimming in at least one of the many cenotes, or underground swimming holes. Thanks to your savings on lodging and food, these adventures are in reach.

FLY ON POINTS FIVE NIGHTS IN A CASTLE IN ITALY The family behind the Vanamos blog knows how to travel cheaply. Their blog grew from their year-long trip around Central America in a VW van, after all. They recently spent Thanksgiving in Italy for much less than you would think. Their biggest score was finding inexpensive flights they could buy with points. Now, points aren’t free, but they can sure feel that way when they are earned with a signup bonus and built upon with a credit card that is paid in full every month. Their lodging was an Airbnb find for the ages...the Middle Ages! Their vacation home was a 16th-century castle, where they had full run of all 22 rooms for all of $123 per night. Luckily, even the cheapest food in the unlikeliest place in Italy can be incredibly delicious. Pack a picnic lunch of fresh bread, cheese, olives and sausages for under $20, and spring for pizza and salad for dinner for $30. Add $10 for some wine for the parents, and your food budget is $60 per day for the four of you. Now you can splurge on an Italian cooking class or a few museum visits, too.

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TRANSPORTATION $0 (flights) $165 (rental car) $100 (fuel) $265 LODGING 5 x $123 $615 FOOD 5 x $60 $300 ACTIVITIES Cooking class $270

TOTAL $1450

TRAVEL

Look for credit cards offering the highest sign-up bonuses. This is by far the fastest way to earn your base points. Many cards offer a lump sum of points or miles after meeting a minimum spending requirement, which beats slowly accumulating points over time on purchases. Also, some promotions are once-in-a-lifetime per card, or once every couple years, so be sure to secure the highest sign-up bonus or targeted offer before applying. Tip: opt in for prescreened offers from your existing financial companies like American Express® , Chase®, Citi®, or Bank of America® to get the best targeted promotions for new products.

HACKING 101 TRAVEL REWARDS CREDIT CARDS

BY EMILY MARTIN • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

So, all of your friends are bragging about their points and miles trips and you have no idea where to start with award travel? Here’s your chance to go on a European vacation with the whole crew or take that fast spring break getaway without breaking the bank. From airline tickets and hotel awards to reimbursed travel expenses, with a little planning and preparation, you really can travel the world for a fraction of the actual cost without sacrificing comfort or experience. The right travel credit cards can also include perks that make you and your family’s traveling life much easier...think skipping the lines at the airport with reimbursed trusted traveler programs, free membership to airline lounges, elite status with hotels and airlines... and much more.

REMEMBER: Travel hacking with credit cards is only beneficial if you use your credit responsibly, keep your credit utilization low, and pay your balances in full every month to avoid fees and interest so you can use that extra cash on your next Mai Tai in Hawaii.

Do your research. Not all points are created equal. Some points are worth more or less depending on current values and award availability. On a card offering a seemingly high bonus, the points value could be much lower than a card offering less points that are worth more.

Sign up for loyalty programs. While it might sound basic, joining all of your favorite hotel or airline programs is the first step in collecting those points. If you’re married or have kids that travel with you, sign them up too. That way, you can start earning points through travel and always be on the lookout for the latest promotions.

Use your credit card for everything...and we mean EVERYTHING! A pack of gum at the gas station, taxes, groceries, restaurants and so on. In most cases, as long as you’re not paying interest, purchasing items with your card may be more beneficial than paying cash. You can earn points, work towards a minimum spend requirement and depending on the card, cover your purchases with price protection and additional insurance.

Don’t scoff at an annual fee! Many annual fees are waived for the first year and (if you really want to) you can always cancel the card before that ever hits; however, you may find most of these cards offer benefits that offset their annual fees and could be worth holding onto. Look for airline incidental fee reimbursement, annual travel credits, Trusted Traveler fee reimbursement (Global Entry/TSA Precheck), elite hotel and flight status, free checked bags, no foreign transaction fees, CDW coverage on rental car insurance, trip insurance cancellation and much more.

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weekend in Wthe OC ITHOUT THE KIDS Where to Stay

BY AMY WHITLEY • PITSTOPSFORKIDS.COM

The only real downside to Orange County is the traffic. Avoid the worst of it by staying central, in either Anaheim or Irvine. For an urban hotel with a boutique vibe, still located within a 15-minute drive of just about everything, stay at AC Irvine.

Orange County, California: the kid-centric vacation destination of Disneyland, sunny and sandy beaches, and…world-class theater? Mixed-use artisan shopping districts? Breweries on pedestrian-only boulevards? Spas? Yes, yes, and yes! Having grown-up in the OC, when I returned to visit for the first time without the kids, I was astounded at the urban vibe of this previously distinctly suburban destination. Here’s what not to miss on your next grown-up getaway with a girlfriend, spouse, or significant other.

Where to Eat During your visit, be sure to enjoy happy hour or eat at least one meal at nearby Andrei’s Conscious Cuisine. Tucked away in a largely corporate building, Andrei’s is easy to overlook, but locals know it serves some of the best artisan cocktails around, as well as truly spectacular cuisine. Best of all, Andrei’s donates 100 percent of profits to benefit retinal eye disease research (yes, 100 percent) in honor of the restaurant’s namesake, Andrei Olenicoff.

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If I found myself suddenly planted in the heart of Anaheim’s up-and-coming Packing House, the mixed-use shopping stall and restaurant venue in the heart of the Packing District, I would think I was in Seattle or San Francisco, not the OC. Each square foot of this cavernous former orange packing house bursts with stalls selling everything from Boba tea to Indian cuisine to American Southern comfort food, with indoor communal tables inviting you to linger with a coffee and Adirondack chairs under tea light-studded trees promising an al fresco picnic outdoors. The entirety of the Packing District (several blocks square) is walkable and popping up with more brew pubs, galleries and shops every month. Plan to spend the better part of your first full day here after dropping your bags, wandering between venues. After noshing your way through Packing House, head to Unsung Brewing Co for a deliciously dry citrus IPA or amber ale, then meander through Farmer's Park. Parking can be a hassle (as it is everywhere in the OC), so plan to utilize the affordable valet stand just outside the Packing House. You won't be sorry.

photo credits (opposite): Amy Whitly; Visit the OC; Andrei's

START INLAND:

ENJOY THE ARTS:

GO COASTAL:

After a refresher at your hotel, head to adjacent Costa Mesa, where the OC Mix houses a similar setup, with more craft artisans and boutique shops, an excellent wine bar called LCA Wines, a kombucha bar and plenty of indoor-outdoor dining venues. Browse until cocktail hour, then enjoy a drink at ARC Food and Libations before taking in a show at Segerstrom Center for the Arts in Costa Mesa. The Segerstrom offers a full line-up of live theater and orchestra performances year-round. If time permits, grab a bite afterward at Silver Trumpet, across the street. Their Tamarind Margarita may just change your life.

The second day of your OC weekend is your beach day. Laguna Beach, where I was born and spent my young childhood, has my heart, with its hippie-meets-artistmeets-beach-bum flair, its storied counter-culture history (take a town walking tour from La Vida Laguna) and its iconic beach and excellent shopping and dining. Plan to take your time walking along the main drag (a.k.a. the PCH), pausing to dip your toes into the surf at Main Beach before taking in the views (and romantic side paths) in Heisler Park.

Photos (left to right): artisan food and cocktail offerings at Andrei's; lounge at AC Irvine; top floor of Packing House.

Alternatively, Huntington Beach, to the north, enjoys an equally casual, vacation-goer vibe. Treat yourselves to a spa day at the Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach, or simply find a spot to claim as your own on the sand. South of Laguna, Dana Point serves as the action-adventure capital of the beach cities, with whale watching, jet skiing and boat rentals on offer. Not feeling so energetic? Take a stroll along the harbor, checking out the upscale yachts and sailboats.

MIXED-USE SHOPPING DISTRICTS IN THE OC? BREWERIES ON PEDESTRIAN-ONLY BOULEVARDS? SPAS? YES, YES, AND YES!

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She Gets Around

AUNTIE GOES TO PERU A SINGLE MOM, HER 10-YEAR-OLD SON, AND 80-YEAROLD AUNTIE TACKLE MACHU PICCHU TOGETHER BY DIANE MIZOTA • DIANEMIZOTA.COM

Any single parent knows the importance of having a supportive tribe in your family’s corner. One of my tribe’s MVPs is my Auntie Irene, now 80 years old, who has helped me raise my son since he was a baby. My parents don’t live locally, so my son has grown up with his grandaunt (Grauntie, as he calls her) cheering at his soccer games, picking him up from school, and doting on him in that special way only grandparents can. Auntie lives alone, with no kids of her own, and has always been an avid traveler. As a single woman, she’s traveled to Turkey, Egypt, Japan and Mexico, just to name a few. But it wasn’t until I was an adult that I fully appreciated the spirit of adventure in her travels.

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She Gets Around This year, as we planned a family vacation, she said, “I’d love to see Machu Picchu.” At 80, however, she was afraid that she might not make it there. I was afraid too, wondering how the heck I would take a 10-year-old and an 80-year-old to such a challenging destination. My friends had hiked and camped their way there on the Inca Trail, and the idea of Auntie hiking on the trail, my back heavy with gear, an incessantly complaining 10-year-old trailing behind, didn’t scream 'vacation' to me. However, with a little planning and a spirit of adventure, Peru and Machu Picchu are completely doable with a 10year-old and an (active) 80-year-old. We went in July, which is South America’s winter, but it was mild and beautiful. Below are the key tips that made this multigenerational trip a success for our family.

3. Take the altitude medication. We all got prescriptions for Diamox, took it as directed, and had no problem with the altitude other than a little fatigue. We also planned our itinerary to start in the Sacred Valley, followed by Machu Picchu, and saved Cusco, at the highest elevation, for last, giving our bodies more time to acclimate. 4. Slow down. I’m the type of person who wants to make the most of vacation and have been known to jam-pack an itinerary. Our trip was 11 days long, and I set the expectation that we might do or see one thing per day, allowing ample time to relax, play and explore on our own. From walking the streets of Cusco, taking a cooking class, or just playing Crazy 8’s in our hotel lobby, this pace gave us time in our day to connect.

1. Use a travel agency. Our agent shouldered a lot of the mental load of planning: logistics, meals, transportation, in-country flights... all the details that can make a vacation feel like work. Customizing our itinerary was key, as a standard group tour wasn’t going to fit our needs. I found our travel agency online, but be aware that various travel agencies work together in Peru, and most of our travel was ultimately arranged through Condor Travel. They were a pleasure to work with. We had private transport and tour guides and someone to call with any questions or changes. Money well spent!

It wasn’t until I was an adult that I fully appreciated the spirit of adventure in [Auntie's] travels. 2. Mix in luxury accommodations. On an active trip like this one, it’s imperative to relax, refuel, and even indulge. A hot bath and fluffy white robe went a long way to soothe frazzled travel nerves and remind us to appreciate the gifts of this trip. The standout memories included; playing lawn games next to grazing llamas at the four-star Aranwa Hotel in the Sacred Valley, and the bountiful breakfast buffet and dreamy underground pool at the five-star JW Marriott in Cusco, once formerly a convent.

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Opposite page and top: exploring Machu Picchu; discovering Ollanta.

She Gets Around

6. Don’t be afraid to ask for help. Auntie looks and acts much younger than her age, and once I told our tour guides how old she was, they were more than happy to guide her by the hand over uneven terrain or up and down the rocky steps of Machu Picchu. And even though she insisted she didn’t need it, we also accepted priority boarding for seniors on our flights! 7. Be flexible. No matter how well-planned your trip, bumps are going to happen. Meltdowns. Complaints. After taking a deep breath, accept the fact that whatever happens is how your vacation was meant to be. Lumps and all, sometimes the happy accidents end up being the vacation stories you’ll tell for years to come.

5. Don’t forget about self-care. It can be easy for us moms to do it all, as being responsible for an international trip like this can be daunting. Don’t forget to carve out a little time for yourself. A major perk of multi-generational travel is the luxury of built-in babysitting should you want to grab a coffee, shop, workout or take a nap. We didn’t have to do everything together during the trip, and each of us enjoyed alone time and quality time with each other.

If you’re considering multi-generational travel, I cannot recommend it enough. Being able to see my Auntie fulfill her lifelong dream of seeing Machu Picchu was one of the greatest gifts I could give, but also a huge gift to receive, during a family adventure we will forever treasure. Traveling with extended family can bring its own set of challenges, but it also brings a richness to our travel experiences, and irreplaceable memories of adventures my son was privileged to enjoy with his Grauntie.

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RIDE THE EURO RAILS FINDING THE UNEXPECTED MAGIC OF TRAIN TRAVEL

BY KIRSTEN MAXWELL • KIDSAREATRIP.COM

The Mediterranean sun warmed our faces as we patiently waited for the arrival of the local Circumvesuviana train, which would take us from Sorrento, Italy, to Naples and ultimately, Venice. Our children entertained themselves by running up and down the stairways while locals either cheerfully avoided them or looked on with affection. While we waited, it didn't go unnoticed that Italians don't value ontime efficiency like their Swiss neighbors. We didn't mind. The boys are no strangers to riding trains in Europe. In fact, it is their preferred method of transportation. They know the train station rules of staying nearby and minding belongings, but in the modest Sorrento station, there was little danger of getting lost. The ground rumbled as the train approached, and the boys ran to our side. A small crowd gathered near the doorways, everyone eager to find their spot on the train. We joined the queue as the boys argued which seats would have the best view during this leg of our journey. This was our spring break adventure and we were determined to pack every ounce of Italian culture and food into our limited thirteen days.

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As we pulled out of the station, we struggled to find a spot for our oversized bags. Trains in Europe are not set up for American-sized luggage. Unfortunately, the only spot for our rolling duffels was the storage space at the end of the car, so my husband had to stand next to our bags for the hour-long ride to Naples.

Nearly immediately, the kids pulled down the foldable table between the seats. They love to use this handy surface for card games, drawing, and reading. Since our children aren’t allowed to bring electronics when we travel overseas, they have many hours of selfentertainment.

The time passed quickly and we arrived at Napoli Centrale where we had to change trains. The train station in Naples is a haven for pickpockets and petty criminals, so we told our children to stay close and keep an eye on our bags. They took their job quite seriously, reporting each and every suspicious character. Let’s just say there were quite a few.

We traveled through the Italian countryside, seeing small towns and many farms along the way. This is the beauty of train travel: the many moments spent staring out the giant panoramic windows, sharing stories, and daydreaming. (And of course, waving down the train’s food cart for snacks.) With the kids entertained, I started to doze off.

We were only afforded a short connection time before our high-speed train left for Venice, so we promised the kids we'd eat en route. I counted all the kids, the husband, the luggage, found the train car and loaded everyone on board. It was time to settle in for the five-hour trip.

All of the sudden, I felt a little hand tapping my shoulder. “Mom, it’s snowing,” my son said. The boys were beside themselves, their little faces pressed to the glass. My husband and I looked at one another in disbelief. It wasn't supposed to snow in Italy in March. Did we leave Chicago for this?

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THIS IS THE BEAUTY OF TRAIN TRAVEL: THE MANY MOMENTS SPENT STARING OUT THE GIANT PANORAMIC WINDOWS

We were completely unprepared. An hour ago, we had been in Sorrento where it had been sunny and hot, almost 80 degrees! Now we were headed into a snowstorm. And I hadn’t pack gloves, scarves, or hats. As we pulled into the station, the white flakes continued to fall. The boys could not exit the train fast enough as they excitedly ran outside to the edge of the Grand Canal. Heads up and tongues out, those snowflakes fell right onto their little faces. At the sight, my worries disappeared and all was right with the world.

feature opener: Keryn Means

Once the dust settled, I found myself riding backward with my middle son, the oldest and youngest across from me. My lucky husband sat in the aisle seat across from us.

Get Inspired PARIS TO AMSTERDAM VIA BELGIUM It is easy to access Amsterdam on a direct train from Paris Nord in a little under three and a half hours. However, it might be worth adding a stop in Belgium if you have time for a visit. To reach Brussels (Bruxelles Midi), trains leave every hour from Paris Nord and travel time is an hour and a half without connections. From Brussels to Amsterdam (Amsterdam Cs) the travel time is just under two hours. For those preferring a stop in Bruges (Belgium’s Venice of the North), take the train from Paris Nord to Bruxelles Midi where there are two trains per hour to Bruges (a 50-minute ride). Bruges to Amsterdam can be booked a couple of different ways (Bruges to Brussels to Amsterdam or Bruges to Ghent, Ghent to Antwerp, Antwerp to Amsterdam). Whichever itinerary you prefer, you are sure to get a beautiful view of the French, Belgian, and Dutch countryside.

TRAVEL FROM SORRENTO TO VENICE

photo credit: Tamara Gruber (Pompeii; Keryn Means (Venice)

In Sorrento, board the local Circumvesuviana train north-bound for Naples (Napoli Centrale) as we did. The journey takes just over an hour. Upon arriving in Naples, you will need to switch trains. If you have not purchased tickets in advance, you will need to buy them here. There are several options to Venice, including direct and those with connections. The non-stop train takes approximately five hours, and while a train with a transfer can be cheaper, it takes anywhere from a half hour to an hour longer to arrive at Venice’s main station (Venezia San Lucia).

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UNSCRAMBLE THE 'OTHER' RAILS SAMPLE ITINERARY: If you have 8-10 days to enjoy Great Britain and want to plan a reasonable route by train, combining London, York and Edinburgh is a proven family favorite. Not only is it only 2-3 hours direct between each location by a high-speed train, but there are fun sightseeing options and great hotels all within a short walk of the train stations in each city.

great britain BY NICOLE WILTROUT • CIAOBAMBINO.COM

Driving on the opposite side of the road intimidates many travelers visiting Great Britain. It is possible to get around the island relying solely on trains, however, it will require advanced planning, especially if you want to save money, as well as some compromises on which destinations your family can visit. Follow these steps to make the planning less of a headache and the trip far more enjoyable. Step 1: Learn the main lines that spread around Great Britain. The easiest place to look for this information is nationalrail.co.uk. Families should seek direct routes and avoid changing trains as much as possible to ensure the journey time is never more than a few hours. Step 2: Know your London train stations. For example, the Heathrow Express comes into Paddington Station, but many other trains heading elsewhere in the country depart from other train stations scattered around the city. If you’re only in London for a few days, consider staying near one of the train stations you know you’ll be using. And it’s entirely possible to explore other areas of England as a day trip from London by train, such as Windsor, Bath, Oxford or Cambridge, as these cities are all less than an hour away. 30 | TWIST

Step 3: Book train tickets early. Once you’ve identified your route, don’t delay booking train tickets. While there are occasional sales, in general, train tickets in Great Britain go up in price as travel dates near. You can book in a variety of ways, but a favorite booking site of mine is thetrainline.com. Unlike most European destinations, Great Britain is not within the Eurail pass usage zone. While there are some family pass options in the country, these usually only make sense financially for families visiting for longer than a one or two week trip. For shorter vacations, it makes better sense to buy individual tickets. However, be sure to plug in the age of your children at time of travel to get the most accurate price, as child fares are often reduced, saving you money you didn't need to spend.

• London: 5-6 nights • York: 1-2 nights • Edinburgh: 2-3 nights Start booking those train tickets, and all that remains is to sit back with a spot of tea and watch the cathedral steeples, rolling green hills dotted with sheep and country estates pass you by as you explore Britain by rail with your family. No driving required!

Step 4: Choose your seats. Most lines will sell more tickets than actual seats available, so it is entirely possible you may have to stand in the areas between carriages during peak travel if you book late. Not fun with kids! Book seats that are around a table instead of in rows if that’s an option, so that your family can more easily play games, eat meals and chat. Be aware that big suitcases will need to be stored at the ends of the carriage. Either invest in a luggage lock so that your belongings are secure, or choose seats that are near the end of the carriage, allowing you to keep an eye on your bags. Smaller bags can be stowed above seats.

l e v a r t s s i w s e th system

BY CLAUDIA LAROYE • THETRAVELLINGMOM.CA

As our train gathered speed exiting Bern, Switzerland’s scenic capital, the green rolling hills gave way to the snow-capped peaks of some of the world's most recognizable mountains. The triumvirate of Alpine sisters – the Monch, Eiger and Jungfrau – peeked into view, and at once, we felt grateful to have the luxury of a front-row seat, unhindered by the distraction of car travel. Switzerland is a small country. You can travel from one end to the other in just six hours. But there is so much to see, explore and experience that you may not want to miss a moment, (which you might, staring down the highway in a rental car). Riding the rails in one of the world’s most scenic destinations, and on one of its most dense public transportation networks, is a traveling dream come true.

Not only are Swiss trains well-maintained and proudly punctual to the minute, the Swiss Travel System makes access easy to travelers who are as keen on amazing views as getting around this small Alpine nation.

photo credit: SwissRail

SAMPLE ITINERARY This four-day rail excursion itinerary departs from Lucerne and hits the high notes of Interlaken, Montreux, Zermatt, Chur, St. Moritz and Lugano before looping back again to Lucerne. • Day 1: Lucerne-Interlaken-Montreux • Day 2: Montreux-Martigny-Zermatt • Day 3: Zermatt-Chur-St. Moritz • Day 4: St. Moritz-Lugano-Lucerne Travelers can also work with the Swiss Travel System’s staff to build a custom train tour itinerary.

THE SWISS TRAVEL PASS For train-loving travel enthusiasts, choosing the all-inone Swiss Travel Pass is the way to roll. This pass allows visitors to enjoy unlimited travel by train, bus and boat in more than 90 cities throughout Switzerland. All Swiss Travel System pass tickets are available for first or second class and will vary in price accordingly. The pass also grants free admission to more than 500 museums, discounts on other railways (like the Gornergrat Cog Railway at the Matterhorn), and many mountain excursions. In a country as expensive as Switzerland, the Swiss Travel Pass is a frugal traveler's best friend. FAMILY CARD Families score big with the Swiss Travel Pass. The complimentary Family Card offers free travel for children under 16 years of age, accompanied by at least one parent holding a Swiss Travel System ticket. WHERE TO BUY The Swiss Travel Pass and Swiss Family Card are available at every Swiss railway station. They can also be purchased ahead of time through accredited travel agents and Rail Europe outlets in North America. WHERE TO GO Once you have your Swiss Travel Pass, it's time to plan a grand train tour of Switzerland. Every canton in the country is within reach by rail, coach or boat with your pass. This includes premium rail adventures like the Bernina, Glacier and Gotthard Panoram Express trains, with their large sealed windows showcasing maximum Alpine views. Enjoy! TWIST | 31

STEPPING THROUGH

THE TULIPS

Amsterdam BY JURGA VAN STEENBERGEN • FULLSUITCASE.COM

BEYOND

Seeing the rainbow-carpeted tulip fields of The Netherlands had been my ultimate bucket list experience ever since I saw a postcard depicting them during my first trip to Amsterdam. I don’t remember much of that visit except that I came home with a bag of tulip bulbs and started my own little garden. It was not until years later that my dream to visit the never-ending flower fields finally came true. Now that I live in Belgium, we go to the Netherlands quite often, but seeing the flower fields for the first time was definitely magical. One of my best memories comes from that first trip. We met a friendly Dutch farmer who invited us to visit his tulip fields after we helped him to open a gate. He was so thankful for our kindness that he even said we could pick as many flowers as we wanted. Tiptoeing through the sea of tulips, I felt like a little girl who had landed in a fairy tale. I came home with a handful of tulips, too many pictures, and great memories. While colorful flower fields and tulips are the definitive symbols of the Netherlands, Amsterdam itself is actually not the best place to see the flowers. Although there are several parks in Amsterdam city where you can find spring flowers and the floating flower market in the city centre is not to be missed, you cannot appreciate what spring actually means in the Netherlands until you venture out of the city to explore the tulip fields. Luckily, you don’t have to go far from Amsterdam to find the blooming flower carpets. One of the best places to see tulip fields near Amsterdam is the area around Lisse, 30 kilometers (20 miles) southwest of the city. One of the best-known flower gardens in the world, Keukenhof Gardens, also known as the Gardens of Europe, is located in the same area. If you are only interested in seeing the tulip fields, you don’t necessarily have to go to Keukenhof Gardens. On the other hand, the gardens are really worth a visit, so if you have the time, try to see both.

BEST TIME TO GO Late March to early May is tulip season, but the second half of April is generally the best period to visit. Most flowers are cut off in the first week of May to secure the high quality of the bulbs.

DO NOT MISS Keukenhof Gardens and the tulip fields around Lisse.

HOW TO GET THERE There is unfortunately no easy connection to Keukenhof from Amsterdam city centre. You can either join an organised tour or take a train to the airport, from which you can take the Keukenhof express bus. You could rent a car as well, but with Amsterdam traffic and the parking prices in the city centre, I would only advise renting a car if you are planning to stay outside of the city and explore more of the Netherlands beyond Amsterdam.

Tiptoeing through the sea of tulips, I felt like a little girl who had landed in a fairy tale.

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Keukenhof Gardens Keukenhof is one of the largest flower gardens in the world. Despite its size, it is the most beautiful flower garden you could ever imagine. Over 800 different varieties of tulips and many other types of flowers bloom in the park every spring and exploring Keukenhof feels like walking in a magical forest. Even the biggest skeptics will be impressed! Keukenhof is a very big park where you can easily spend the whole day; at a minimum, allow 4-5 hours for the visit. In addition to the beautiful gardens, there are various floral exhibitions and flower arranging demonstrations in the five pavilions of the park. One of the main attractions of Keukenhof is the traditional Dutch windmill overlooking the tulip fields from where you can also take a boat trip through the beautiful flower bulb landscape. For families with children, there is a treasure hunt, a petting farm, a maze, and also a playground. Keukenhof is truly a place to be enjoyed by the whole family. Keukenhof today is much more than the garden it used to be years ago. It has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Netherlands, quickly adapting to the demands and tastes of the overseas tourists. Souvenir shops are flourishing. Everything from traditional windmills and wooden clogs to Dutch cheese and all things orange: you will find all of the typical Dutch stereotypes here.

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If you arrive in Amsterdam by plane in April, make sure to secure the window seat and you will be rewarded with the most phenomenal views over the endless colorful flower fields dotting the landscape.

There is just one drawback to visiting Keukenhof Gardens: the crowds. The Gardens attract over a million visitors each spring, and you can imagine that visiting a paradise-like garden just doesn’t feel the same with thousands of people pushing their way through. For the best experience, I recommend visiting Keukenhof early in the morning on a weekday. If possible, avoid weekends and public holidays: I cannot even attempt to describe what a busy day in Keukenhof looks like!

Tulip Fields The Lisse region where Keukenhof is located is one of the best places to find colorful flower fields in the Netherlands. The whole area turns into a huge blooming carpet in spring. We explored a small area between Keukenhof and Noordwijkerhout and saw plenty of tulip fields in all colors. The best way to see the tulip fields around Lisse is by bike. You can rent one at the main entrance of Keukenhof Gardens. There are several suggested route options, so don’t forget to ask for a map. You can also explore the tulips fields in Lisse by car; just make sure to stay off the major roads, otherwise, you won’t see much. Remember that the tulip fields are private property, so be respectful. Usually, you can take pictures in the fields surrounded by the flowers, but make sure to respect any posted signs and don’t step on the flowers. Needless to say, you shouldn’t pick any flowers in any fields without express permission.

The best way to explore the tulip fields is by bike. You can rent a bike in Keukenhof.

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2018 EDITION

FREE TWIST DOWNLOAD TWISTTRAVELMAG.COM We have compiled 25 pages of travel tips and sanitysaving tricks to help you get where you want to go!

HOW TO DECIDE WHERE TO GO BEST COUNTRIES FOR FIRST TIME ABROAD PRE TRIP PLANNING SAFETY AND STAYING CONNECTED TRAVEL CALENDAR AND FAMILY-FRIENDLY FESTIVALS BEST TRAVEL AGENTS & PLANNERS FOR FAMILIES TRAVEL IN STYLE PACKING TIPS FOR KIDS TRAVEL APPS PRO PHOTO TIPS AND MORE...

iceland BY AMY WHITLEY â&#x20AC;¢ AMYWHITLEY.COM

STEP AWAY FROM THE TYPICAL ROUTE TO EXPERIENCE TRUE ISLAND LIFE

SPOILER ALERT: ICELAND IS FANTASTIC. The rain came down in a sideways spitting torrent just south of the town of Fludir, Iceland, the windshield wipers of our five-passenger camper van providing only fleeting glimpses of visibility. Outside my passenger-side window, I could make out the steep gravel road before us, and a fence line along which a small herd of ponies had collected to watch our progress, shaking the rain off their manes excitedly. In the driver's seat next to me, my teenaged son channeled all his concentration as he attempted to ease the temperamental van into a lower gear. When he predictably failed, stalling out in the middle of the road, we all enjoyed a laugh; like most Icelandic roads, this one was was deserted save for our vehicle. We had plenty of time to get the van into gear. We finally rolled into our campsite in Alfaskeid and looked around us, astonished. During our 12-day camper van trip around Iceland, we’d gotten used to the aforementioned lack of crowds, even in peak season, but this was ridiculous: we had the entirety of the campground’s gently rolling hills to ourselves. The rain had stopped (the weather truly does change every five minutes here) making way for the Midnight Sun, which glowed like a flat silver disk in an ice-blue sky. We set up camp, which involved putting our van in park, and I turned in a 360-degree circle, drinking in our isolation. It was just me and my three boys on this trip, ages 18, 15, and 12, navigating Iceland solo. While we dearly wished my husband could have joined us, his work schedule didn't allow it. Rather than wonder just how great Iceland would be, we decided to go anyway on a mom-and-boys trip, and find out firsthand. Spoiler alert: Iceland is freaking fantastic. Exploring the country by camper van had been an economic choice; Iceland is expensive, and I travel with three teenaged boys who enjoy three (big) square meals per day. However, after experiencing the country by van, I wouldn’t do it any other way. The freedom of choosing routes and overnight destinations on a whim; the flexibility of dining al fresco by waterfalls, under stone bridges, in hay fields, and beside fjords; the interactions we enjoyed with Icelanders all over the country as we stopped daily at public pools to soak and shower... our van served as our portal to seeing Iceland as the rubber meets the road: real, raw, and remote. 38 | TWIST

We started in Reykjavik, as everyone must, and headed south first, my 18-year-old cranking French heavy metal music on the van stereo (just because he could, he said). We all rocked out as I drove, trying to get used to the bulk and height of our new home on wheels. We spent four days in Southern Iceland, touring the fabled Golden Circle, hugging the southern coast to explore Hvolsvöllur, Skaftafell and Vik, looking for puffins in the basalt cliffs of Reynisfjara and exploring what amounted to hobbit houses in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. We camped by a geyser, by a pasture, against the windswept sea, and in the misty spray of waterfalls. We hiked through Vatnajokulsthjodgardur National Park, learned all about lava and volcanoes, and found (mostly) secret hot springs.

OUR VAN SERVED AS OUR PORTAL TO SEEING ICELAND AS THE RUBBER MEETS THE ROAD: REAL, RAW AND REMOTE. We then backtracked to the west, seeking that elusive stretch of highway where Walter Mitty skateboarded his way out of reach of an erupting volcano (never found it), poked our heads into seaside caves on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and white-knuckled it along what our trusty map promised was not an F-road (Iceland’s roughest roadway designation). We stopped at farmhouses advertising skyr yogurt, shopped at Bonus for our nightly roadside and campsite picnics, and ate gas station hot dogs (we rate N1 dogs as the best). My boys, always up for adventure, shouted impulsively to stop the van multiple times per day so they could run up hillsides covered in wild lupine, climb down a country overpass to wade into an icy creek, soak in a public laug (pool), and jump a fence to try to hop on the back of a pony (uh, no). My jaw dropped watching my 15 and 18-year-olds cliff jump into a river in the remote Westfjords, laughed as my youngest leapt from steaming hot pot to the Atlantic sea, following in the literal footsteps of the locals. They became as wild and wonderful as the landscape around us, braving hairpin turns through the fjords; becoming adept at BBQing dinner in rain, sleet, hail, and wind; and dodging sheep on the roadways. Usually early-to-bed types, we stayed up past midnight every night, as it never got dark, and we just kind of forgot to turn in. We had just one rule during our Mom-and-boys adventure: we’d find a new hot spring, pool or hot pot (natural hot tub) to bathe in Iceland’s geothermal waters every single day. To that end, we scoured our map and found the best free, public hot springs. We also found flowing hot spring rivers, community swimming pools where we shared steams with local families and fraternities of large Scandinavian men, and even Iceland’s very first swimming pool, tucked into a narrow valley between towering green mountainsides. We kept our promise to ourselves, finding new hot springs every day, down to our last, which we spent at Laugardalslaug, Reykjavik’s largest geothermal pool complex.

Top to bottom: Laudar campsite, Alfaskeid, and waterfall near Flokalaundar.

We never ate a single meal out in a restaurant, never slept in a single hotel and never spent more than $20 on a souvenir or entry fee. Instead, we drove every backroad we could find, and rolled into a new campground each night. Our 12 days weren’t perfect, but even when a stomach bug made the rounds, even when it poured rain mid-glacier walk, even when we got lost or couldn’t find correct change for a toll, we realized something: a trip doesn’t have to go perfectly to be perfect, you know? TWIST | 39

ADVENTURES IN THE LAND OF ICE AND FIRE

BY TAMARA GRUBER • WE3TRAVEL.COM

Every trip to Iceland should include a bit of ice and fire: get out on a glacier, see an iceberg, witness the lava fields or fly over a volcano. Iceland is a destination that appeals to all adventurers, but these five experiences are especially perfect for families.

3. SUPER JEEP TOURS Splash through rivers and get into the interior of the country on a guided super jeep tour, which is perfect for all ages from toddlers (with a car seat) to seniors. This is also a fun way to get onto a glacier and see a part of the country you wouldn’t discover on your own. In West Iceland, Activity Iceland offers tours into the Highlands, while South Coast Adventure will take you into Thorsmork (aka Thor’s Valley) in the south.

4. LAVA CAVES Children school-aged and older will enjoy going underground on a guided tour of one of West Iceland’s 1,000-year-old lava tube caves. Either Cave Vidgelmir, the mightiest of Iceland’s caves, or Vatnshellir cave on the Snæfellsnes peninsula will surely produce a few 'wows'.

5. BUGGY OR ATV TOURS Who wouldn’t enjoy a 4x4 adventure across Iceland’s stunning landscape? Buggy Adventures offers familyfriendly excursions near Reykjavik for ages six and up (with a licensed driver of course). Adventurous teens might prefer a quad bike tour on South Iceland’s black sand beaches with Arcanum. Note: if you opt to tour the island via camper van, we recommend purchasing the Iceland Camping Card, which grants families entry to over 40 campsites throughout the country. Get more camper van tips at pitstopsforkids.com/iceland.

1. WHALE WATCHING For the best whale viewing, head north to Husavik–the whale capital of Iceland–where you can spy both whales and puffins on a rib safari boat tour with Gentle Giants. If you are short on time, take an express whale watching boat with Special Tours right from the Old Harbour in Reykjavik.

2. GLACIER HIKING Those 10 years old and up can take a three-hour hike out onto the Myrdalsjökull glacier in South Iceland with Arcanum and learn about Iceland’s geology and recent volcanic eruptions. Note that glacier walking without a guide is prohibited.

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REYKJAVIK WITH KIDS THINGS TO DO IN ICELAND'S CAPITAL CITY BY TARA CANNON • PINTSIZEPILOT.COM

It has never been easier to visit Iceland, with dozens of direct flights landing at Keflavik International Airport every day from major cities around the world. Couple this with the option to enjoy an Iceland stopover on your way to or from Europe, and you just might be considering this tiny island nation for your next family holiday. Iceland is extremely welcoming to families traveling with children. As an added bonus, Iceland is also considered one of the safest countries in the world (actually number one on the Global Peace Index 2017). With that in mind, here are some of the top things to enjoy in Iceland’s capital city of Reykjavik with kids: HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA CHURCH TOWER: For sweeping views of the quaint and colorful city of Reykjavik, take the lift to the top of Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church. It is a wonderful place to get your bearings and take some Instagramperfect pictures of the city. Afterward, shop for souvenirs along the picturesque streets adjacent to the church. REYKJAVIK WHALE WATCHING AND PUFFIN-SPOTTING TOURS: There are a number of tour companies running right out of Reykjavik. For those with younger children, pick a shorter tour option, lasting only 1-2 hours.

GEOTHERMAL POOLS: This country takes their public bathing seriously, so to truly experience Icelandic culture, a visit to a public pool is a must. Geothermally-heated pools are dotted across the whole country with 18 pools in and around Reykjavik itself. FAMILY FRIENDLY MUSEUMS: Visit a family-friendly museum in the city. Try the Árbær Open Air Museum, National Museum of Iceland, or the popular Viking Maritime Museum.

REYKJAVIK FAMILY PARK AND ZOO: The Family Park and Zoo is located in the nearby Laugardalur valley and is home to various Icelandic farm animals, reindeer, harbour seals, arctic foxes, a selection of birds and even a variety of reptiles.

NAUTHÓLSVÍK GEOTHERMAL BEACH: Possibly the coolest outdoor recreation area in all of Reykjavik is the Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach. This multi-use facility has steam rooms, geothermal hot tubs, a man-made beach, and a heated kiddie pool that spills into a larger pool at the ocean's edge.

WALK ALONG THE SEAWALL: Kids will love bounding along the seawall from Reykjavik’s Sun Voyager sculpture to the contemporary Harpa Concert Hall. As it can be a little chilly in Iceland even in summer, the cozy main floor restaurant of the opera house is a great place for a hot chocolate warm-up with the kids.

THE BLUE LAGOON: No visit to Iceland is complete without a visit to the Blue Lagoon. While much more expensive than the local geothermal public pools, this attraction provides a very unique and luxurious family experience that should not be missed. The Blue Lagoon is near the airport, so it makes for a great stop upon arrival or on your way home.

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GREAT CITIES TO LEARN SPANISH AS A FAMILY BY REBECCA BERNARD • FAMILYGO.GLOBAL

One of the greatest gifts my parents ever gave me was the gift of a second language. I was born in Costa Rica and raised in the United States, so from early on, I had to navigate life in two languages. Throughout my childhood, my parents made sure to maintain my Spanish by speaking it in the home and enrolling me in bilingual programs. One year, they sent me to Costa Rica for summer school which forced me to flex my Spanish in a way that has made it stick into adulthood. Those formative years solidified my capacity to grasp a second language and ultimately gain a third and a fourth. Now, as a mother of two young children, I know that the gift of other languages is something that I want to impart to them as well.

Studies show that there are many benefits to being bilingual, from cognitive advantages to increased opportunities in the global workplace. Bilingual children learn to switch between two language systems, thus have an easier time problem solving, focusing and making decisions. They also show a greater capacity for developing compassion, empathy and other beneficial socio-emotional skills that are needed in our increasingly interconnected world. Both of my children attend a dual-language school; however, one of the critical components to solidifying their language skills are our summer adventures abroad with Family Go Global. We have had the opportunity to travel to Costa Rica, Spain and Cuba on Spanish language trips, and this summer we will be exploring Mexico. Studies show that the best way to learn a language is through cultural and linguistic immersion. This means being fully doused in the experience of being in the country: walking the walk and talking the talk. These adventures have encouraged my kids to put their book knowledge to good use and continues to boost their confidence in both languages.

BILINGUAL CHILDREN...HAVE AN EASIER TIME PROBLEM SOLVING, FOCUSING AND MAKING DECISIONS.

Costa Rica

Mexico City

TAMARINDO BEACH COSTA RICA For the family who loves nature and adventure, Costa Rica is a premier destination offering language instruction surrounded by ecological beauty. Costa Rica is a safe and easy to navigate destination, and best of all, ticos (another word for my Costa Rican people) embrace the Pura Vida lifestyle, or the simple life.

WHERE TO LEARN: TAMARINDO SPANISH SCHOOL: Playa Tamarindo, Guanacaste tamarindospanishschool.org

photo credit (Mexico City): Katja Gaskell)

WHAT TO-DO:

SEE SEA TURTLES HATCH: Visit Las Baulas National Park in Playa Grande during nesting season (October to February) to see the local leatherback turtles lay and hatch their eggs. VOLCANO DAY TRIP: Visit the nearest volcano, Rincon De La Vieja, for a day of zip lining, horseback riding and enjoying hot springs.

Mexico City

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What to look for in a summer language program

MEXICO CITY MEXICO

Age appropriate instruction: Your language institute should be able to provide differentiated instruction based on age group and language proficiency. Many language centers are experts in teaching older teens and adults, but fewer are proficient at catering to the under 13 crowd. Be sure to ask questions about their teaching methodology for the younger ages who may not be keen on sitting at a desk for four hours straight. Grammar and conversation: It is important to have the grammatical bases covered when learning a second language, but it is equally as important to use your tongue! Classes should also emphasize conversation, giving students a chance to practice what they are learning in small groups and out in the world. Field trips to engage with the locals are always a bonus! Fun, fun, fun: While you do want the kids to be learning, this is still a vacation, parents! Make sure activities are fun and play-based. Your kids will learn more if they are engaged and loving every minute of their time in class. For more Spanish language tours and vacations in various Spanish-speaking countries, visit FamilyGo.Global.

Spain

If you prefer urban hustle and bustle, Mexico City offers a mix of cosmopolitan city lifestyle alongside old world charm. The food is culinary artistry at its finest. From street tacos to the world-renowned restaurants of the Mexi-chic neighborhoods of La Condesa, Mexico City offers gusto for the palate. The region is riddled with impressive Mesoamerican structures, colonial and modern architecture and a fabulous art scene.

WHERE TO LEARN:

LENGUA Y CULTURA: Calle Bajío 335, oficina 704, Colonia Roma Sur C.P. lenguaycultura.com

WHAT TO-DO:

TEOTIHUACAN: Visit and explore one of the world’s greatest mysteries, the ancient Mesoamerican pyramids of Teotihuacan. STREET FOOD TOUR: Let the chef guides from Eat Mexico show you that not all tacos are created equal.

GRANADA SPAIN Sitting at the foot of the Sierra Nevadas in Andalucia, Granada is a multicultural mix of medieval architecture and Moorish influences that results in neighborhoods that are walkable and full of things to explore. While your kids participate in summer camp at a local language institute, you can visit museums and enjoy pan con tomate in a local plaza. In the afternoons take advantage of siesta and enjoy leisurely dinners into the late hours of the night, as Spaniards do.

WHERE TO LEARN:

INLINGUA GRANADA + INLINGUA KIDS: Calle Nueva de San Antón, 8, 18005 Granada inlinguagranada.es

WHAT TO-DO: THE ALHAMBRA: Spend the morning amongst the rustcolored palace walls of the Alhambra and learn how Moorish royalty lived. MOROCCAN TETERIA: Meander the Moroccan shops along Caldereria Nueva for great souvenirs and a sip at a local tea house.

lake life QUIET SUMMERS ON THE WATER WASH AWAY EVERYDAY STRESS

BY KERYN MEANS â&#x20AC;¢ WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

I look out over the lake as the sun begins to set, the call of a loon sounding over the water just as I dip my toe in. My youngest runs down the dock to tell me his uncle is starting a fire in the pit so the cousins can all roast marshmallows tonight, and I smile as he runs back towards the cabin...a cabin we have been renting for the past 10 years with my family.

This week every summer is the one constant in my life. I'm in no rush – there's no hurrying lake life – so I look back at the setting sun before joining my kids. Ripples break across the water as a kayak skims by, its owner taking in the same evening glow I enjoy. This week every summer is the one constant in my life. It is a ritual I have loved since childhood, as has my mother and her mother before her. Now my boys enjoy the same yearly sojourn to the lake. Like many generations of visitors who migrate from their city and suburban homes to North American lakes, dumping chairs, tents, rafts and kayaks by the water’s edge to take over vacation homes for a week, month, or even the entire season, lake life has long been a vital part of our family's summer. We've been trekking from our homes in Philadelphia and Washington D.C. to New Hampshire for at least three generations. My mom grew up going to Lake Winnipesaukee. Her uncle bought a cabin on Swansey Lake, west of Winnipesaukee, which I grew up going to as a child.

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When he sold the cabin, we went back up to the same little town of Wolfeboro on Lake Winnipesaukee that my mom had visited as a child. This week gives us a respite from the throbbing heat and humidity that hits our region of the East Coast, but also a quiet calm to our lives. Knowing we have this one week set aside every year to unplug (we hide the TV) and let the kids run wild and free outside brings renewal into our lives that we always forget we need, until we are back on that dock. Each year, I pull up to the little cabin we rent and breathe in the pine needles. For me, that smell is the smell of vacation, of relaxation and of ritual. Everyone in the family has his or her own way of settling back in as soon as we arrive. The kids have to hit the water, of course. There is a tiny, sand beach next to our dock; it's why we picked the property. My brother-in-law jumps in the kayak to work out his stiff muscles after the 10-hour drive. My dad and I run into town to grab groceries (a.k.a whoopie pies and cookies from our

This is when the magic happens for me: sunset. My stress seeps out of my body, lapping away with the light current. favorite bakery), while my mom sorts out the kitchen. My sister watches the kids with a glass of wine and her book, while my husband unloads the car and then takes a nap. I truly know that I’m back to my lake home when I find myself on the dock with my camera around seven pm the first night. This is when the magic happens for me: sunset. My stress seeps out of my body, lapping away with the gentle current. Some nights my dad, who gave me my first camera, and I have a little photo fun with the light. Other nights my husband and I sit side-by-side, enjoying the peace and quiet. Where are the kids in all of this? As they get older, sometimes we just don’t know. When they were babies and toddlers, an adult always had kid-duty, the water a safety concern. Now that all of the kids are older, we give them a little more freedom (though life vests are still always a must). The cabin is surrounded by woodlands with loads of places for ninjas, knights and princesses to play and explore. We adults can get a little rest, sitting on the porch reading a book, enjoying some music or cooking a meal. Unlike the beach, where many houses are pushed so close together you could literally have a drink with your neighbor without ever leaving your deck, the lake allows this special sort of freedom.

We don’t have to worry about burnt toes, only bugs. No cars roll by, only dogs and neighbors up the dirt road coming to saying hello after a year away. Our city children can become wild beasts in the forest or fish in the lake, going on sea-faring expeditions. Paradise comes in many forms, but we’ve found ours. While there were times I took our lake trips for granted growing up, as I watch my kids roasting marshmallows with their uncle and cousin, I’m glad I recognize this ritual my parents gave me as the gift it is. My dock will always be waiting for me, as will the setting sun.

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SIX LAKE TOWNS WE LOVE

BY KERYN MEANS, VANESSA BELL, KIRSTEN MAXWELL, CARRIE BETH POSENER, JEN GIAMBALVO AND AMY WHITLEY

As lake life in America grows in popularity, more lake communities are springing up. There are full-time lake housing communities, but still plenty of vacation communities and commuters who will make the trek up to their lake cabins and rentals every summer to find their version of peace on earth. We’ve pulled together some of our favorite lake towns that bring a little something for everyone in the family. The next time you crave that retreat from your every day, don't look toward the ocean. Look to the freshwater lakes that await a little closer to home. Wolfeboro, New Hampshire

Lake Keowee, South Carolina

Sitting on the shoreline of Lake Winnipesaukee, Wolfeboro is the 'The Oldest Summer Resort in America' and proud of it. Boutique shops and restaurants line the main street as families flock to the same rentals or family homes year after year to escape the heat of Boston, New York and Philadelphia.

Located in Seneca, SC, this crystal clear lake is known for its fishing, boating, swimming and water sports. It is rarely crowded and sits at the base of the South Carolina foothills, giving it a gorgeous backdrop. The Lake Keowee area offers that small town, southern feel that regulars have come to know and love.

Turquoise blue Bear Lake is nicknamed the

Green Lake, Wisconsin

Mammoth Lake, California

Green Lake, Wisconsin sits on the deepest natural inland lake in the state and provides visitors with over 25 miles of shoreline. Visitors come from Chicago and all parts of Wisconsin to enjoy the charm of this small town year-round. The community has lakeside restaurants with stunning views, an abundance of festivals, and an atmosphere that’s all about rest and relaxation.

Tucked away in California’s Eastern Sierra mountain range, Mammoth Lakes is known for its ski resort, but the locals have a saying that rings true: 'You’ll come for the winter, but stay for the summer'. Families enjoy scenic hikes through wildflowers, mountain biking, clear lake waters and fly fishing. The Village at Mammoth is the it-destination for excellent dining, shopping and outdoor entertainment.

Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

Bear Lake, Utah

Located in the heart of the Northwest's Inland Empire, Coeur d' Alene sits amid wooded mountains about 30 minutes from Spokane, WA. With wide, well-kept swimming beaches and ample boating and waterskiing opportunities, the lake life spills into the quaint downtown, with family-friendly brew pubs and a network of hiking trails.

Straddling the state line of Utah and Idaho, 20-mile-long turquoise blue Bear Lake is nicknamed the 'Caribbean of the Rockies' for good reason. This recreational center of northern Utah and southern Idaho offers a slice of paradise with ample sunshine, sandy beaches and great conditions for boating. Rent a vacation cabin, grab a campsite and enjoy.

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Dive into the Pacific Northwest in Couer d'Alene; Alpine meets lake life in Mammoth Lakes, CA; Wakeboarding on Lake Keowee, SC

photo credit (top down): Idaho Tourism; Josh Wray/Mammoth Lakes; The Magnolia Mamas

'Caribbean of the Rockies' for good reason.

FAVORITES

Hotels

Tigh-Na-Mara

DESTINATION SPA RESORTS Do you want to feel the stress of your travel day melt away in a signature spa treatment safe in the knowledge that your kids are equally happy enjoying their own special amenities elsewhere in the hotel? Wish you could chill in an inviting relaxation room with a magazine and a glass of something bubbly knowing you can keep your promise of beach days, kids' clubs or yummy in-room goodies for your offspring when you return to your accommodations, refreshed? You can have your cake and eat it, too! We've curated a short list of five of our favorite destination spa resorts that cater to both parents and kids, all of which embody that magical alchemy of sophistication, pampering and kid-friendliness.

FOUR SEASONS, COLORADO By Julia Dimon, JuliaDimon.com

OJAI VALLEY INN, CALIFORNIA By Claudia Laroye, TheTravellingMom.ca

GURNEY'S MONTAUK, NEW YORK By Brianne Manz, StrollerInTheCity.com

TIGH-NA-MARA, BRITISH COLUMBIA By Claudia Laroye, TheTravellingMom.ca

PHUM BAITANG, CAMBODIA By Amie O'Shaughnessy, CiaoBambino.com TWIST | 49

COLORADO

ns o s a e S r Fou r e v Den

BY JULIA DIMON • JULIADIMON.COM

With properties all over world, The Four Seasons brand is a perfect choice for families looking for a luxury travel experience. Four Seasons Denver offers a behind-thescenes interactive culinary tour of their kitchen where kids can join the pastry chef to make their own sundaes. Rooms come equipped with toddler-sized tents, Honest bath and body lotions for baby and, in addition to room service, candy service... an in-room dining candy cart with an unlimited selection of gummy treats. While the kids are splashing around in the pool with Dad, mamas can make their way to The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Denver for some much-deserved pampering before giving Dad his turn. Sign up for the Four Seasons Signature Four-Handed Massage, where two massage therapists work together in unison for ultimate relaxation (50-80 minutes, $260-$385). Or, try the Sticks and Stones Massage. This rejuvenating and relaxing service uses heated bamboo sticks on your lower body, allowing the therapist to work deeper on tight muscles while still using long and relaxing linear strokes. On the upper body, the use of hot stones allows for more precision work to target need areas, especially the neck and shoulders. This treatment incorporates naturally antiseptic and anti-bacterial evergreen oil, known for its anti-inflammatory properties. Sunday through Thursday nights from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm, choose two separate 25-minute treatments (massage, body scrub, exfoliation) and enjoy a glass of bubbly, all for just $109. Have an extra $75,000 just lying around? Of course you do! You can purchase the unlimited, all-you-can-spa package. Specialty massages are also offered for mothers-to-be.

Rooms come equipped with toddler-sized tents, Honest bath and body lotions for baby and, in addition to room service... candy service!

ADDRESS 1111 14th St, Denver, CO 80202 WEB SITE fourseasons.com/denver STARTING PRICE $720 per person/ all-inclusive

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Beyond the luxe spa facilities and treats for the kids, the Four Seasons Denver offers fine dining at their signature restaurant, EDGE. During our stay, we checked out breakfast, where, amidst the cozy steakhouse décor, we leisurely sipped on freshly-squeezed purple pomegranate and mint juice and shared an order of house-baked brioche French toast. Delish! With locally sourced ingredients, EDGE also serves up lunch and dinner dishes like braised Colorado lamb cheeks and a free-range Boulder chicken that will give your taste buds a glimpse into the Mile High City's impressive culinary scene.

CALIFORNIA

Ojai Valley Inn BY CLAUDIA LAROYE • THETRAVELLINGMOM.CA

California-style resort holiday bliss awaits just 90minutes and a world away from the bustle of Los Angeles. The affluent and artistic small town of Ojai tempts visitors with a strong local and organic food and restaurant scene, several spiritual retreats, and a great selection of art galleries and independent retailers. While wildfires in 2017 took a toll on areas surrounding Ojai, the town itself remained untouched. Ojai is also the home of the famous Ojai Valley Inn and Spa, nestled near the Topa Topa Mountains surrounding this picturesque community. The five-star Inn features family-friendly suites and special Family Fun Packets that include picnics, outdoor activities, hanging out at the Pixie Pool and even after-dinner s'mores roasting. When parents need some time to themselves, reservations at the 31,000 square feet of Spa Ojai are just a phone call away. The Spanish Colonial-themed spa is self-contained on the grounds of the Ojai Valley Inn and provides spa, fitness, and wellness services for men, women and couples. Guests can choose from a full spa menu of massages, facials, mani/pedis and body treatments, as well as specialty spiritual sessions that channel the valley’s reported concentration of energy known as its ‘vortex'.

For a unique couples experience, book the Kuyam signature mud treatment. This traditional healing treatment evokes the ancient traditions of the local Chumash people. It combines the therapeutic effects of cleansing mud, dry heat and guided meditation. Afterwards, rest poolside or meet in the quiet spa lounge and relax while reading magazines, sipping tea or citrus water and snacking on complimentary dried fruit and nuts. A light spa menu is available at the on-site Cafe Verde, featuring snacks and lunch items. The spa’s Artist Cottage and Apothecary allow guests to work out their creative spirit in a variety of painting workshops. Or take home custom blended scents, created under the guidance of the in-house aromatherapist. The day isn’t complete until the arrival of the legendary Pink Moment. This magical phenomenon happens as the fading sunset creates a brilliant shade of pink for several minutes on the Topa Topa bluffs, over 6,000 feet above sea level. The locals attest to the unique, spiritual energy of the Moment, but you’ll have to see it for yourself to judge how it may move your spirit.

ADDRESS 905 Country Club Rd, Ojai, CA 93023 WEB SITE ojairesort.com STARTING PRICE $550 USD/night, Fireplace Shangri-la Room

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NEW YORK

Gurney's Montauk BY BRIANNE MANZ • STROLLERINTHECITY.COM

Summer on the East End is pretty close to perfection. The beaches in the Hamptons are spectacular, with plenty of restaurants and outdoor activities to capture the attention of everyone in the family. The Hamptons are very dear to many families, and there is something extra special about Montauk. Perhaps it is the more laid-back vibe felt there or maybe it’s Gurney’s Resort & Seawater Spa that lends to the magic. It wasn’t that long ago that Montauk was known for long stretches of empty beach and undeveloped land rather than the chic summer party scene it is now, but Gurney's has been there through it all. This property still maintains a feeling of calm and solitude, redolent of years past. Gurney’s Montauk hits all of the notes for a perfect family getaway. You can eat, sleep and play all in one place, which is ideal when you’re traveling with kids. Gurney’s has a kids' club offering beach time, arts and crafts, lunch and swimming. They also have a Beach Nanny program to help parents out when they just want to decompress. Gurney’s opened as an inn some 90 years ago, then existed as a summer hotel in the 1950s. It enjoyed a bit of a heyday in the '60s before opening the spa in 1979. The resort has recently undergone renovations and expanded to offer stunning new rooms and food options with the same breathtaking ocean views on their private and seemingly deserted stretch of beach.

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ADDRESS 290 Old Montauk Hwy, Montauk, NY 11954 WEB SITE gurneysmontauk.com STARTING PRICE $267/night

The accommodations are pure luxury. From the simple yet well-appointed standard rooms to oceanfront multi-room suites, each space is equipped with top-notch amenities. Our favorite spot for food is Scarpetta Beach but Gurney’s has plenty of yummy options: Tillie’s (for amazing lobster rolls), Corso Coffee, The Beach Club, and the Regent Cocktail Club (for Mom and Dad). Beach bums will typically spend hours lounging at the private beach or swimming in the seawater pool, which uses water drawn from Montauk’s coast, warmed to the perfect temperature. Yes, it is divine. Parents will want to make use of Gurney's nanny program to enjoy The Seawater Spa, offering therapeutic services such as seaweed wraps and sea mineral scrubs. For a truly immersive treat, try the Thalasso Algae Bath, and sink into one of Gurney's luxurious European Thalasso hydrotherapy tubs filled with filtered, heated seawater infused to detoxify the body and tone the skin.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Tigh-Na-Mara BY CLAUDIA LAROYE • THETRAVELLINGMOM.CA

Tigh-Na-Mara is the quintessential family-friendly holiday resort, including the luxurious touches that today’s family travelers expect. It’s located on the eastern shore of Vancouver Island, in the seaside town of Parksville. Whether travelers want an ocean-view room or to rent a cute, family-style cottage complete with a kitchen, the resort offers something for every traveling style. Tigh-NaMara sits just a short walk to beautiful Rathtrevor Beach, where one can spend the entire day chasing the tide, completing the evening with a beach campfire BBQ. Even on a family holiday where everyone is enjoying time together in (hopefully) peaceful harmony, traveling moms and dads may need to steal away for some adult-only pampering for themselves. Fortunately, one of the best spas in Canada happens to be situated on the grounds of this favorite family vacation resort.

The grotto feels almost like an underground cenote but comes with all the comforts of a luxury spa facility.

The Grotto Spa is a 20,000-square-foot relaxation wonderland, voted the #1 Spa in Canada by Spas of America. Guests take a short walk through the resort grounds to reach the spa area. As soon as they enter, the relaxation begins. The spa has all the usual luxurious body treatments of course – facials, body wraps, massages and mani/pedis – but the most impressive feature is the cavernous grotto area itself. The spa has been designed to emulate a natural stone grotto, including the 2,500-square-foot Mineral Pool. The pool is infused with natural minerals and trace elements to detoxify the body and rejuvenate the spirit. The grotto feels almost like an underground cenote but comes with all the comforts of a luxury spa facility. For parents in need of a day-cation, The Grotto Spa offers its Ultimate Couples Experience; a blissful day of luxury and attention, with side-by-side treatments and a special couples' dining area. The spa day is capped by popping bubbly and noshing on endless tapas from the Treetop Tapas & Grill in your spa robe and slippers. Spending a day in The Grotto Spa is an ideal way for parents to reenergize before getting back into family mode.

ADDRESS 1155 Resort Drive, Parksville, BC WEB SITE tigh-na-mara.com STARTING PRICE $270 CAD/night

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CAMBODIA

Phum Baitang BY AMIE O'SHAUGHNESSY • CIAOBAMBINO.COM

It's always thrilling to discover a brilliant boutique hotelier who creates a fantastic product that is truly unique in the world. Plum Baitang in Siem Riep, home of Angkor Wat, fits this bill. Phum Baitang is the second hotel to open by Zannier Hotels, an exciting new French brand run by a father-andson team specializing in high-end hospitality and gastronomy. Zannier developed the resort on an open parcel of land and constructed a working rice paddy within the confines of the property. Public spaces and 45 traditional Khmer-style wooden villas overlook the rice paddies; the result is visual magic. The rice paddies are functional, not just for decoration, and an oxen-led cart is hard at work during daytime hours. Families who seek accommodation experiences they absolutely can’t get at home should look no further. Guests choose villas with or without a private plunge pool. Either way, accommodations are spacious and include exquisitely designed indoor and outdoor living spaces. Old-world finishes are integrated with the modern design to ensure the sense of place isn’t forgotten. Bathrooms are massive with two sinks, deep soaking tubs and rain showers. Sofa beds make it possible to sleep a family of four in one-bedroom villas. Phum Baitang is family-friendly and offers a fully-staffed kids’ club, an ideal setup for parents who want to get some downtime by the pool or take advantage of the sublime Spa Temple, an adults-only haven that’s one of the property’s most compelling features. The same design genius that highlights the accommodations makes this space a visual and sensory sanctuary. Natural elements and age-old practices from around Asia are interwoven to provide a long list of delights.

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ADDRESS Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia WEB SITE zannierhotels.com/phumbaitang/en/ STARTING PRICE $454

Serious thought has gone into offering something special to spa guests; the menu of treatments is truly divine. It’s inspired by ancient Khmer Empire, and pays tribute to customs and cultures from across the region. Many of the treatments incorporate Cambodian ingredients and traditions such as crushed ginger, mango, ground coconut shells and Khmer massage (a blend of kneading, stretching and pressure along the body’s 'energy lines'). There’s also a yoga pavilion and a fitness room, and tai chi classes are offered on request. For the ultimate indulgence, book a treatment in the privacy of your villa. Talk about pampering! Between the oasis-like location, the cool and crisp villa design and, of course, the heavenly spa, we liked Phum Baitang so much that we’d go back just to stay at this resort even if we weren’t touring Angkor Wat — a true testament to the hospitality gem that Zannier has crafted.

Spotlight

photo credit: Susan Pazera

ON ITALY

ROME WITH KIDS

DINING GUIDE

TUSCAN TOWNS

ITALY AT HOME

Explore a city storied with history as well as modern flare: here's how to embrace Rome's ancient ruins, religious history and lively urban culture.

Learn the difference between a trattoria and an osteria, a gelato and a sorbetto and an espresso and a cafe Americano while dining throughout Italy.

You know you want to drive amid rolling countryside and vineyards, sampling the best Tuscany has to offer. Here's where to go and what not to miss.

Want to bring Italy home with you? The entire country may not fit in your luggage, but its fine leather, pottery, wine and olive oil certainly can! TWIST | 55

36 HOURS IN ROME

A WALKING TOUR OF THE ETERNAL CITY WITH KIDS BY TAI KOJRO-BADZIAK • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

Rome is a city that celebrates her history as much as her modernity, and it takes weeks, if not years to really know it. A short visit demands omissions and the 36 hours we spent was really the barest taste – a quick visit, no museum lines but all the highlights – before joining our larger group in Tuscany. The walk down Via Cavour from the station toward the ancient center is a sort of Eternal City Cliffs Notes: Santa Maria Maggiore, built in 435AD, dominates the Esquiline Hill, trattorias and street stands run by recent immigrants line the road. Fascist-era hotels sit side-by-side with Renaissance palazzi, and with every step, Vespas, Fiats and the occasional Tesla zips by. A left on Via degli Annibaldi offers one of the most magical approaches to the Colosseum; next, pass the Forum to Piazza Venezia. All roads lead to Rome, right? Well, all Roman roads lead to Piazza Venezia - this is quite simply the heart of Rome. Quintessentially Italian, the traffic chaos is completely managed by one police officer with white-gloved hands, gesturing like a mad Mickey Mouse. During our visit, we dove into the winding streets of medieval Rome. Every stone here has history: breathing in the air feels like a lesson in longevity. First stop: the Pantheon, the most perfectly preserved Roman temple in existence, the dome, a perfect half-circle. Nearby, oval-shaped Piazza Navona is built on an old Roman racing track, or 'circus'. Its exuberant fountains are surrounded by artists selling their creations. The maze of streets beyond is a sensual adventure of trattorias, enotecas, salumi and cheese delis next to boutiques.

For a short respite, we enjoyed a retreat in all this pedestrian activity at the church of Santa Maria Della Pace, and more significantly, the Chiostro Bramante. The church is a lovely example of Baroque theatrical street design. A sanctuary removed from the hustle just outside the doors, the cloister features a 2nd-floor cafe and restaurant with a reading room that opens onto the Rafael frescos within the adjacent church. More importantly, the cafe has a private restroom with large window seats perfectly sized for a changing pad should you have a baby in need of a change.

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The Tiber River is nearby, and the view towards St Peter's Basilica offers a great photo opportunity at sunset. After a quiet dinner at Ritrovo Del Gusto, we enjoyed a 30-minute walk back to the hotel. Exhausted, we fell asleep immediately. On Day Two, we headed straight for the Jewish Ghetto. Established in 1555, this area was the only legal area of residence for the Jewish population until 1870; towering buildings and narrow walkways show just how dense the neighborhood used to be. Ancient ruins include the Porta Ottavia, one of the gates to the neighborhood. The synagogue offers wonderful tours. Walk up tiny Via del Raginella and pause by the Fontanna delle Tartughe: the turtles are charming for children. Another block north, the Largo de Torre Argentina has visible ruins more than 2500 years old; it's believed that the steps where Julius Caeser was murdered was right over this area. However, the kids might be more entertained by the plethora of kitties lounging about the ruins.

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EVERY STONE HAS HISTORY: BREATHING IN THE AIR FEELS LIKE A LESSON IN LONGEVITY.

GETTING AROUND • WHAT TO SEE Rome is best encountered on foot, with big thoroughfares dividing up neighborhoods full of winding alley-like streets and delightful surprises. Cobblestones mean bumpy rides for strollers, and there’s only a few paved sidewalks throughout the city. A good map, phone GPS, and an overall tour of Rome – either a hop-on bus tour or a good walking tour – will help you navigate the thousands of years of history at your fingertips.

This on-site cat sanctuary helps maintain the feral cat population of Rome. Continue on to Campo dei Fiori, a gorgeous open air market. On weekdays, fruits and vegetables spill over crates; other vendors offer pastas, smoothies, housewares and fashion. The flower stands at the west end of the market cascade with color. Southwest of the Campo is the Palazzo Farnese, one of Rome's most important High Renaissance palaces, designed by a number of heavy hitters including Michealangelo. Via del Pellegrino and Via dei Banchi Vecchi are picturesque streets crammed with jewelers, artists studios, boutiques and tiny trattoria sideby-side. Peppered with churches, cafes and fountains, you could go window shopping for hours. We enjoyed an early dinner and a gelato near Piazza Navona. Walking back to the hotel, I checked the pedometer: in two days, we'd walked over 20 miles and explored more than 2500 years of history. Exhausted, delighted and sated, I realized: twenty miles is not even the start of what Rome has to offer.

Rome is bursting with iconic monuments, a vibrant art scene and a plethora of incredible historical tours. With so much to do, it is hard to narrow down your choices. Luckily, we've curated a list of 10 kidfriendly things that will please every member of your family.

THE COLOSSEUM A visit to Rome would not be complete without a visit to one of the world’s most famous historical sites. In order to bypass lines and work your way through the crowds with ease, try booking a kid-friendly guided tour (Overome and Context Travel are great options).

10 THINGS TO DO IN ROME WITH KIDS BY AMBER MAMIAN • GLOBALMUNCHKINS.COM

VILLA BORGHESE Take a break from sightseeing at this beautiful central park conveniently located in the center of Rome. There are plenty of playgrounds, spots to set up a picnic or enjoy an impromptu soccer game, and you can even rent surrey bikes and boats.

TREVI FOUNTAIN Known as one of the most stunning fountains in the world, Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi) is a fun spot for the whole family. Make sure to bring plenty of coins: it is said that if you toss a coin with your right hand over your left shoulder into the fountain, you will return to Rome in the near future!

PIAZZA NAVONA Piazza Navona often feels like a happy surprise when it opens up amid the narrow, winding streets of central Rome. Find many vendors here selling everything from carnival-style toys to fine art, and be sure to enjoy the many street performers who flock here, especially during the warmer summer months.

PIZZA-MAKING CLASS What kid doesn't love pizza? Let them try their hand at kneading and rolling the dough with a class taught by a real Roman pizzaiolo. There are several options available but we think Rome4Kids is the best!

SPANISH STEPS Try climbing the 138 steps linking the Piazza di Spagna (Spanish Square) and the Piazza Trinita dei Monti or, like most tourists do, simply opt to grab a gelato, take a seat, and enjoy the view. TWIST | 59

CASTEL SANT’ANGELO NATIONAL MUSEUM

FOOD TOUR IN TRASTEVERE

Kids will love Castel Sant' Angelo National Museum with its secret trap doors, ditches, drawbridges, and dungeons in this real-life castle that was originally built to serve as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian in the sixth century.

One of the best ways to introduce kids to a new culture is through its food. Head to nearby Trastevere for a kidfriendly food tour with Eating Italy. Kids will love sampling all of the food, checking out the interesting merchants at the farmer's market, and of course, enjoying the gelato.

THE PANTHEON

EXPLORA KIDS MUSEUM

Located right in the middle of the city is the stunning architectural masterpiece known as the Pantheon. Kids will love getting the chance to step inside this 2,000-yearold building and look up at one of the largest domes in the world made with unreinforced concrete.

Give little ones a break by visiting Explora Children's Museum located near Piazza del Popolo. The museum features interactive exhibits and plenty opportunities for pretend play. Kids especially love the zip line swing. Perfect for ages 4-12.

TOURING HILL

THE

TOWNS

TUSCANY

BY KELLEY FERRO • KELLEYFERRO.COM

Driving through Tuscany is dangerous. Instead of the road, your eyes will be distracted by the impossibly stunning views, which more closely resemble an oil painting than the side of the screaming fast, SS73 autostrada. Wafts of homemade rustic bread and treeripened olives will drift in through the open car windows and that particular shade of gold that only a Tuscan sun can manage will bathe everything, your tiny rental car included, in the most attractive of lights. It’s no secret that Tuscany is one of our planet’s timeless gems, a see-it-to-believe-it kind of place. And all that fame comes for good reason: pastoral landscapes, sandy coastlines, picturesque hilltop towns and world-class vineyards blend with simple yet mouthwatering food and sun-drenched days. This is heaven on earth, Italian-style. Be careful though: a trip to Tuscany is so intoxicating, you may never want to leave. This region cast its spell over me back in college. Now, I get a yearly, nagging feeling that I need to return back home. I can’t always indulge that pull back to Tuscany, but last summer, I relented.

CORTONA Cortona is a medieval hilltop town large enough to promise a lot of variety in one's days, but small enough to keep it feeling familiar. It is a leisurely drive to most destinations in Tuscany, including the lakeside villages along Lago Trasimeno, Siena and Florence. Be choosy if you decide to go the apartment route. The town originated in 600 B.C., so expect a primitive charm. For us, an outdoor space and location on one of the main streets were paramount, so we lucked out with a top floor apartment with lake views and an outdoor roof deck. However, if you require hotel amenities, a pool and a restaurant on the premises, check into Relais Il Falconiere, located just down the hill from the town. Owned by a warm, hands-on wife and husband team, the Baracchi family makes you feel welcomed into their casa, even if their home happens to be a Relais & Chateau property. Don’t be intimidated by all the accolades; the laidback, 'live and love' Italian mentality is imbued throughout the olive grove, farmhouse rooms and the sustainable, seasonally-inspired restaurant.

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For an upscale dinner, Preludio is one of Cortona’s best. If you order a handmade stuffed pasta and snag a table out front, you are in for a special evening. However, I enjoyed an Aperol spritz and bruschetta con pomodoro at one of the many outdoor tables along the street almost just as much (try Cafe degli Artisti).

The Capanna Farm and Vineyard was founded in 1957 by the Cencioni family, and Giuseppe Cencioni, along with his sons, still manage the farm and wine production. Stop in for a Brunello tasting and I dare you not to buy a few bottles to pack in your suitcase.

CASTIGLIONE DELLA PESCHAIA MONTALCINO When the town’s name is also one of the world’s best wines, be prepared to raise a few glasses during your stay. However, Montalcino itself is as full-bodied and elegant as its namesake wine, with winding streets, pasta shops and a 14th-century hilltop fort which was never conquered. Be sure to stop in for a surprisingly modern meal at the trendy Drogheria Franci. Since the reason you come to Montalcino is for its legendary Brunello di Montalcino, it's a must to check out a multi-generational, family-run winery before you head into town.

Though the rolling hills made Tuscany famous, don’t miss one of the beach towns along the region’s many miles of coastline. Castiglione della Peschaia is where the Italians go when they need to cool off in the Mediterranean. Don’t expect a posh beach town; it's the local energy and authentic flavor that makes this beachfront town a fun stop. Pay around 10 euro for a beach chair under one of the brightly-hued umbrellas at a beach club or settle down on some sand. The water is clean, relatively calm and very refreshing. The working town has some local cafes if you need a bite, or dine near the water at one of the restaurants. On a hot day, the juicy tomatoes and creamy mozzarella at Bagno Balena did the trick for me.

TIP: WHEN THE TOWN’S NAME IS ALSO ONE OF THE WORLD’S BEST WINES, BE PREPARED TO RAISE A FEW GLASSES.

CHIUSIDINO If you are looking to spend your days relaxing in the Tuscan air and eating the bounties of the Tuscan landscape, the bucolic, five-star Borgo Santo Pietro is your retreat. Located in the sleepy town of Chiusidino, you will rarely want to leave the 200-acre property, and why should you? Much of the best of Tuscany is right here. Not only do their expansive, biodynamic gardens supply their restaurants, but their farm includes beehives, a herd of pigs, chickens, sheep and a vineyard, so you can expect local honey, freshly made cheese, just-laid eggs, and savory prosciutto, all washed down with Borgo Santo Pietro’s own wine label. It’s tough to choose between dining at their 13th century Tuscan villa at the Michelinstarred Meo Mondo, or outdoors by the infinity pool at their ivy-covered, open-air Trattoria Sull’Albergo.

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Interested in picking up some cooking tricks? Take a class at the Borgo Cooking School. Learn how to make homemade spinach ravioli from an Italian nonna, prepare a pork dish with a Michelin-starred chef, or indulge your sweeter side with a chocolate-making class. Even if you don’t stay overnight, do stop by for a bite at least.

PLAN YOUR TRIP TO ITALY BY TAMARA GRUBER • WE3TRAVEL.COM

Dreams of fresh pasta under the Tuscan sun, sipping limoncello on the Amalfi Coast, tossing coins into the Trevi Fountain in Rome, viewing the masterpieces of Florence, or getting lost in the canals of Venice draw many families to Italy. Now is the time to turn your Italy vacation dream into a reality.

TIME AND BUDGET Ten to fourteen days is the perfect amount of time for a first trip to Italy. You will have time to see a lot without feeling rushed. Budget will vary depending on accommodations and the number of guided tours and activities you plan. Simple agriturismos with self-catering apartments start at $2,000 for a week. Hotels in Rome can easily be $500+ per room, per night, though this number can be cut considerably by renting an apartment. Half-day, private tours start around $400 for a family.

WHERE TO GO For a first trip to Italy with young children, three to four days in Rome, combined with one week in Tuscany at an agriturismo with a pool is the perfect mix of city and countryside. Just keep in mind that most agriturismos offer only a one week (Saturday-to-Saturday) reservation. Families with older children who can appreciate a mix of history, culture and art will find plenty to do with four days in Rome, three in Florence, and two in Venice. Add more time in Florence for day trips to Pisa, Lucca, Siena or San Gimignano. When returning to Italy for a second trip or traveling with teens, consider five nights in Rome and five nights on the Amalfi Coast, with a day trip to Pompeii. Just remember that accommodations on the Amalfi Coast in the summer book up nine to twelve months in advance.

FLORENCE Book tickets in advance to climb the Duomo and take a guided walking tour of the city to learn about the Medicis' role in Florence’s fascinating history. Don’t miss a glimpse of the David at the Accademia and do book a scavenger hunt tour of the Uffizi. Let young artists bloom with a drawing tour or a private lesson with one of Florence’s artisans.

ROME Get acquainted with the city on a golf cart tour and spend time enjoying the beautiful Borghese Gardens. Learn ancient history with a family scavenger hunt tour of the Colosseum, or skip the lines and the crowds with an express tour of the Vatican. Teens will enjoy a food tour through one of Rome’s lesservisited neighborhoods or exploring the catacombs and Roman underground.

VENICE Leave time to get lost in Venice and watch the pigeons in St. Mark’s Square. Get off the beaten path by clamming in the lagoon, learning to row a gondola, or visiting the colorful but lesser-known island of Burano.

AMALFI COAST Time on the coast is spent soaking up the sun and surf. Chartering a boat for a day trip is the ultimate luxury. Families can also enjoy buffalo mozzarella or pizzamaking classes.

Grand Hotel Minerva

Castello di Casole

OUR FAVORITE HOTELS IN ITALY BY AMIE O'SHAUGHNESSY • CIAOBAMBINO.COM

Italy is one of the easiest places in the world to travel with kids: families feel welcome, as Italians love children. There are many accommodation options that are wonderful with little ones, including agriturismi (working farms) with self-catering apartments and villas in a resort setting. Ciao Bambino partners with a list of vetted properties throughout Italy that we book either standalone or as part of a comprehensive trip planning service, often with exclusive perks to pass along. From north to south, here are some of our favorites.

HOTEL AL PONTE MOCENIGO, VENICE

GRAND HOTEL MINERVA, FLORENCE

A hidden gem for value-seeking families, Al Ponte Mocenigo sits in a residential neighborhood away from the bustle of tourists. Rooms can sleep three to four people comfortably; there’s also an apartment across the canal. The staff are friendly and can make savvy recommendations about restaurants in the neighborhood.

Family-focused suites with separate living and sleeping areas make Grand Hotel Minerva an exceptional option for kids of all ages. There’s a rooftop pool with stunning city views, perfect for sightseeing breaks. The location on the car-free Piazza Santa Maria Novella offers space for wee travelers to stretch and play.

PORTRAIT FIRENZE, FLORENCE

MONSIGNOR DELLA CASA, TUSCANY

This boutique all-suite hotel offers special family suites with a separate bedroom and a lounge that converts into a bedroom for up to two children, plus a two-bedroom family suite available. Toys and a DVD player are available on request. River-facing rooms have jaw-dropping views of the Ponte Vecchio and Oltrarno skyline.

Monsignor Della Casa is one of the few rural accommodations in Tuscany offering a resort-like atmosphere. A huge array of kids’ activities and sports are paired with self-catering accommodations. Parents have access to a spa and gym, and the excellent restaurant and wine bar make meals convenient after days of sightseeing.

CASTELLO DI CASOLE, TUSCANY

GRAN MELIA, ROME

If your budget is big, check out Castello di Casole, a fivestar resort with magnificent countryside views. Family accommodation options range from suites to selfcatering farmhouses and villas with gourmet kitchens. The central location is excellent for sightseeing as well as access to lovely smaller villages.

Within walking distance of Rome’s ancient attractions, the Gran Melia is perfectly situated for a fun-filled Roman holiday with kids. Housed in the historic Villa Agrippina, it pairs old-world charm with modern amenities and style. The expansive grounds, full-service spa and resort-style pool combine city excitement with total relaxation.

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Italy Day Tours BY KATJA GASKELL • GLOBETOTTING.COM

YOUR WHOLE FAMILY WILL LOVE

You can almost guarantee that kids will love Italy (what’s not to love about pizza every day, right?), but navigating the cities can be tricky; how do you combine so much art, history and culture with children? By hiring an expert! Gone are the days when tours resembled your worst school history lesson; today there are dozens of fun interactive experiences that allow families to discover Italy in a more creative and engaging way. From cooking classes and scavenger hunts to a Pinocchio-themed walking tour, these five family-friendly tours will ensure that the whole family falls in love with Italy’s dolce vita.

photo credit: Context Tours; Al Gelso Bianco

HEROES OF OLYMPUS, ROME If your kids are anything like mine, they have their heads stuck in a Percy Jackson book day and night. Well, now they can walk in the footsteps of the world’s most famous demi god on a family-friendly tour of Rome’s Capitoline Museum. Rome Tours with Kids offers a two-and-a-half hour Heroes of Olympus-themed tour where families will learn all about Roman history and mythology. Quizzes and scavenger hunts among the statues of Medusa and Hercules, plus more Percy Jackson information than they'll know what to do with, will ensure your kids come away even more hooked on these books than ever! Rometourswithkids.com

TREASURE HUNT TOUR, VENICE There’s more to Venice than gondolas as you’ll find out on the brilliant Treasure Hunt Tour from LivItaly. Designed especially for families, the tour is filled with spellbinding stories, fun facts and centuries-old mysteries as you discover some of the most important landmarks in Venice. At the start of the tour, kids are given a scavenger map and are challenged to find clues and answer questions along the way. The adventure starts at Saint Mark’s Basilica before moving on to Saint Mark’s Square and then Doge’s Palace. The treasure hunt finishes with a walk across the notorious Bridge of Sighs and a prize for completing your map. Livitaly.com

BRING HISTORY TO LIFE IN THE VATICAN The Vatican may well be the smallest country in the world but it’s a big deal to navigate with kids; it’s crowded and the history and art is complex. Fortunately, however, Context Tours offer a family-friendly tour, led by a guide trained in inquiry-based learning techniques who will get your youngsters (and you!) thinking about the art displayed before them. The tour includes a visit to the Sistine Chapel, where the family will be encouraged to discuss Michelangelo’s masterpieces of the painted ceiling and Last Judgment. This tour is definitely for older children and your brain may well be a little tired by the end, but it’s a fantastic way for families to visit this unique city-state. Contexttravel.com

COOKING CLASS, TUSCANY Al Gelso Bianco offers a handful of cooking lessons where kids and adults can learn to create some of Italy’s most famous – and delicious – dishes. Led by the owner, Stefania, these hands-on classes teach families how to make and prepare fresh homemade pasta. At the end of the day you'll know how to create Italian staples such as tagliatelle, ravioli and gnocchi, as well as oven-baked vegetables and apple cake. The classes are completely interactive and everyone will get their hands dirty kneading, shaping and cutting fresh pasta. Enjoy the fruits of your labor and feast on a big lunch at the end of the class! Algelsobianco.it PINOCCHIO FLORENCE TOUR Even the smallest of children will fall in love with Florence on this engaging learning adventure based on the childhood classic of the wooden puppet who dreams of becoming a real boy. Although the famous tale was not set in Florence, the author, Carlo Collodi, lived here and the city is filled with locations believed to have inspired The Adventures of Pinocchio. Your child-friendly guide will lead you on a tour of the city streets, taking in well-known sites as well as less-visited corners as you follow your nose around Renaissance Florence. Visit bustling market squares and ancient water fountains, discover outdoor sculptures and, of course, the best place for gelato. The tour finishes at a magical toyshop home to a huge variety of handmade life-size Pinocchio puppets. Nancyaiellotours.com

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The Art of Ordering Coffee in Italy BY TAI KOJRO-BADZIAK • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

The Italian barista is like a magician, orchestrating the simple ingredients of coffee bean, hot water and steamed milk while taking a barrage of requests from a flurry of gesturing people lined up at the marble bar: cappuccino, espresso, macchiato, corretto, lungo, doppio, ristretto all tumble from the client’s tongues as they order. The milk steamer hisses, the porcelain cups clatter, the grinder whirs, and a rapid series of clanks and thuds clears, refills, sets and pours the perfect espresso.

ESPRESSO

The neighborhood caffe in Rome is where you can get all the gossip: sports and politics, comings and goings, strikes and concerts. The morning espresso is meant to be enjoyed quickly, standing at the bar, chatting with the barista, neighbors and strangers. Rarely is there much of a menu, and many of the drinks we associate with giant 24-ounce cups loaded with syrups and flavors are actually quite the opposite; most Italian coffees are around 2-6 ounces, and never meant to be taken 'to go'.

A cappuccino is one-third espresso, one-third steamed milk, and one-third foamed milk (about 5-6 ounces total), and only enjoyed before noon. A caffe latte is similar. It literally means 'coffee milk' and involves onethird espresso and two-thirds steamed milk. A macchiato means 'marked': as in, the spoonful or so of steamed milk added to a doppio marks the black coffee.

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Espresso, a small shot of about 1.5 ounces of coffee, is the foundation for most of all the other coffee drinks made at an Italian coffee bar. A single shot will get you about the same amount of caffeine as an 8-ounce cup of drip coffee; most coffee drinks with milk and other ingredients are automatically a double espresso (or doppio).

CAPPUCCINO

CAFE AMERICANO Ordering a cafe americano may get you excited about your traditional coffee from home, but it's just a doppio cut with hot water, not a drip machine coffee.

MOKA Moka with a 'k' will get you a coffee made in a small pot, not an espresso cut with chocolate. For that, order a mocha latte.

A LITTLE SOMETHING SPECIAL An espresso with whipped cream is delicious: order a caffe con panna. For a real treat, get the affogato: vanilla gelato 'drowned' in espresso. And for adults only: a caffe corretto: the 'corrected' coffee, addressed with a small shot of grappa, Baileys, amaretto or other liqueur.

Italy Dining Guide

Art, history, vineyards, hikes, tours, delightful wanders... all that exploring works up an appetite! One of the best parts of traveling through Italy is the variety of fabulous dining options: from antipasta to zabaglione, cafe americano to wine, the abundance of delicious, accessible food and refreshment can seem limitless. But how to choose? Osteria, ristorante, cafe, bar...where should you get that pasta carbonara? How do you navigate the many dining options in Italy?

BAR The Italian 'bar' is completely unlike the American understanding of the word. In Italy, the bar is akin to a cafe, featuring a robust coffee and beverage service, with some food varying by time of day, including pastries and cakes, panini, and gelato. In a bar, you typically order your items from the cashier and then present the receipt to the barista. Frequently you may need to repeat the order, as the receipt will show prices but not necessarily items themselves. It’s important to note that there is one price for taking your drink at the bar, and another about twice that if you sit down, so when you order, you want to make clear that you’re planning to drink your coffee al banco or a tavola (at the table).

RISTORANTE The top grade of Italian dining, the ristorante typically offers a 'fine dining, white tablecloth' experience. A ristorante usually offers a coursed prix fixe menu as well as a la carte options. Plan on having plenty of courses – a true Italian meal involves an antipasto, pasta dish, main course, vegetable and dessert, and could easily take three hours – and a few bottles of wine, finished with an espresso and a limoncello.

TRATTORIA The trattoria is less formal than a ristorante and features traditional Italian food in a welcoming but unpretentious environment. A trattoria usually has lunch and dinner service, and family pride is palpable; be sure to ask about the chef’s recommendations, as you’re likely to get a dish reminiscent of grandma’s spaghetti and perhaps a wine from the family vineyard! Trattorias invite lingering, and a full meal might take 1-2 hours.

OSTERIA The osteria is less formal than a trattoria and could be considered the neighborhood joint. Regional specialties will shine at the osteria and, just like a trattoria, the culinary head of the family is likely in the kitchen making the meals. It’s a faster meal than a trattoria, but you should still anticipate an hour or so: anything faster is rude and an affront to the chef!

BY TAI KOJRO-BADZIAK • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

ROSTICCERIA A 'rotisserie', the rosticceria offers hot food, including meats and pasta, as well as salads and desserts. While a rosticceria is usually destined as a 'to go' meal, they frequently have comfortable seating for a dining experience that’s far less formal than a trattoria.

PIZZA A TAGLIO Literally 'pizza by the slice', the pizza a taglio is often seen with a sign reading forno (oven) over the establishment. Pizza is typically sold by weight for takeout and will be heated up for you if you prefer. Pizza a taglio rarely have tables for seating, though they may have a countertop at which to stand, and will usually sell sodas as well as beer.

ENOTECA The enoteca is a wine bar and generally has a huge variety of wines and a very limited food menu. Historically featuring local wines, enotecas in cosmopolitan cities are now showcasing wines from across Italy, and are also increasingly high design, sophisticated spaces. Whatever the decor, enotecas offer a marvelous opportunity to sample a variety of options, from single glasses to regional flights, paired with a plate of salami and cheese or a pasta or two.

TAVERNA Much like the English word it resembles, a traditional taverna is a casual destination with a full bar and limited food service. Convivial and friendly, a taverna is a great meeting place to drop in for a glass of wine and a quick bite from noon to late night.

PUB Here’s your bar! A pub is where you’ll find Guinness, Stella, Moretti and Heineken, as well as mixed drinks. Don’t plan on much food at a pub; you’re most likely to see some snack-size bags of potato chips and peanuts as your options for sustenance.

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HISTORIC SIGHTS, RENAISSANCE ART AND NATURAL BEAUTY ARE NOT THE ONLY REASONS TO VISIT ITALY. ITS CULTURAL HERITAGE IS APPARENT IN ITS FOOD, WINE AND ARTISAN CRAFTS, MAKING AN ARRAY OF INTERESTING CHOICES FOR SOUVENIRS. THESE TIPS FOR BUYING SOUVENIRS IN ITALY WILL HELP YOU SELECT THE BEST THINGS TO BRING HOME FROM YOUR VACATION.

Souvenirs You

BY JENNA FRANCISCO • THISISMYHAPPINESS.COM

Should Buy in Italy

FOOD

Although the best food experiences are those you’ll have while in the country, you can bring a bit home with you, too. Try visiting outdoor markets, delicatessens and food halls like the Mercato Centrale in Florence to find local food products. Each region has its own specialties, but some clear choices are locallymade olive oil and balsamic vinegar and truffles. If you’re in Perugia, be sure to buy some local Perugina chocolates.

WINE You can’t go wrong with a bottle of Italian wine to bring home. In Tuscany, try a Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti or the dessert wine Vin Santo. The Tuscan hill town of San Gimignano is known for its Vernaccia, a fine white wine that has been made in the region for hundreds of years.

LIMONCELLO Limoncello is made in southern Italy, particularly in the Campania and Liguiria regions where lemons grow in abundance. The liqueur is traditionally served chilled as an after-dinner digestif but is also used as ingredient in cocktails. 68 | TWIST

TOYS

CHRISTMAS SOUVENIRS

Thanks to the country’s tradition of handmade craftsmanship, Italy is a wonderful place to buy items for children. Look for the Bartolucci shops of handmade wooden toys in cities around Italy, and don’t miss the Pinocchios for sale at the Florence location. In Sicily, you’ll find finelymade marionettes and puppets that make a special gift for older children.

If you’re fortunate enough to visit Italy during Christmastime, you’ll find a variety of Christmas decorations, such as glass ornaments and nativity scenes, in both shops and outdoor markets. Many towns and cities have large outdoor Christmas markets selling a variety of handmade Christmas decorations.

LEATHER CERAMICS The variety of finely-painted ceramics in Italy make excellent gifts, and the style of ceramics varies from one region to another. If you have the opportunity to visit a ceramics factory, you’ll learn more about local ceramics traditions and find a variety of items to purchase. One of the most famous ceramics factories is Deruta in Umbria. The town of Nove in Veneto has more than one hundred ceramics shops. On the Amalfi Coast, visit Vietri sul Mare for the brightly colored majolica pottery made there.

Leather items are a favorite souvenir of visitors to Florence, but for the best shopping experience, you should know where to buy them. While you can find good leather in the outdoor market of San Lorenzo, you’ll need to use a careful eye to find quality items. Instead, head to the neighborhood of Santa Croce on the bank of the Arno River, home to many shops that sell quality leather products. A few good leather shops include the Leather School (Scuola del Cuoio) on Piazza Santa Croce and Mannina on Via Guicciardini.

The Italian Kitchen WILD BOAR RAGU BIANCO BY TAI KOJRO-BADZIAK • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM AND TYLER MALLORY • TYLERMALLORY.COM

photo credit: tylermallory.com

16 oz fresh or dried tagliatelle, chitarra, bavette or similar wide, toothsome pasta 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 sprig rosemary, finely chopped 1 tsp chopped thyme 8 sage leaves, finely chopped ¼ cup dry red wine 1 lb ground wild boar 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for pasta water 2 tbsp butter 1 medium yellow onion, chopped very fine ½ cup dried, torn porcini mushrooms ¼ lb fresh shitake mushrooms ½ cup hot water 1 cup vegetable or chicken stock 1 cup dry white wine ⅓ cup milk or cream sea salt or kosher salt fresh cracked pepper ¼ to 1/2lb pecorino cheese, grated

In a covered bowl, marinate wild boar for at least two hours, or overnight, with garlic, rosemary, thyme, half the sage and red wine. Heat a large saucepan on medium-high heat; add the oil and butter. When melted, add the onions and turn heat to low. Sweat the onions on a very low heat for about an hour, stirring every 5-10 minutes, allowing the juice to release, creating rich flavor. You can add a spoonful of broth if you feel it’s getting too dry. Turn the heat up at the end for about eight minutes to get a little caramelization. While the onions are cooking, reconstitute the dried mushrooms with hot water. Cover and let sit for at least 15 minutes. Remove onions from the pan. Turn the heat to medium-high, add a drop of olive oil and saute the Shitake mushrooms for about eight minutes. Return onions and any residual juice to the pan. Use a fork to tear the meat into smaller pieces, and add to the pan, cooking on low heat for about eight minutes, until cooked through but not browned. Add remaining sage, reconstituted mushrooms, the mushroom water, white wine and remaining broth to the pan. Add a pinch of salt and 3-4 cracks of pepper (or to taste). Raise heat to medium, and stir slowly as the liquid reduces. When the liquid is reduced by about half (approximately eight minutes), add the milk and continue to stir. Reduce heat if needed. Prepare pasta water. When the pasta is ready, ladle about one and one half cups pasta water into a separate bowl before draining the pasta. Return pasta back to the pot and return over medium heat. Add a splash of olive oil and one-fourth cup pasta water, and stir rapidly. Add the ragu, stirring to coat the pasta thoroughly; add more pasta water, about one-fourth at a time, if you would like a wetter sauce. Remove from heat. Plate with a sprinkle of shredded pecorino, a finish of sea salt, and a crack of pepper. PASTA WATER: in a large pot, bring to a boil about 1 quart fresh cold water, 1 teaspoon salt, and a splash of olive oil – a proper pasta water has the taste of the sea. Add more water if needed to properly cook your choice of pasta. Cook pasta according to packaging or experience: it should be al dente, with a hint of resistance when bit through; this is usually 5-8 minutes.

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PENNE ORTOLANO Prepare the pasta water with salt and water; cook the pasta al dente, just enough to have some tooth (not too soft). As the water is heating, peel and trim the garlic; using the flat of a chef knife, crush the cloves, then chop coarsely. Scrape into a large bowl. Rough chop the tomatoes and add, along with any juice, to the bowl with the garlic. Add a pinch of salt an pepper. Allow the garlic to macerate; stir occasionally. The pasta water is probably ready, so add the pasta and keep an eye on it. Most pasta requires 7-8 minutes to cook al dente.

INGREDIENTS 1 lb penne pasta; cook to al dente 1-3 cloves garlic (per taste preferences) 1 lb tomatoes 1 medium onion 1 small zucchini 1 cup fresh basil leaves Kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste

Finely dice the onion (roughly one-eighth inch pieces) and add to the bowl with the tomatoes and garlic; mix. Trim the top and end of the zucchini; dice into one-fourth inch cubes and add to the bowl. Mix. Chiffonade the basil: stack about 10 leaves, roll tightly and then slice perpendicular to the roll to create long ribbons. Add half to the bowl and reserve the rest for garnish. Drain the pasta, reserving about one-half cup pasta water. Mix the hot pasta into the bowl with the veggies; the heat of the pasta will cause the tomatoes to release more juices, while the juice simultaneously absorbs into the pasta itself. Portion out into bowls, sprinkle with fresh basil and parmesan, and serve immediately.

PASTA CARBONARA In a large pot, bring about four quarts water to boil. Add a glug of olive oil and a spoonful of salt. Cook the pasta al dente. In the meantime, heat a large saute pan. Add a splash of olive oil, then cook the guanciale, rendering off the fat, until crispy. This will vary greatly depending on the meat and thickness. Watch it carefully so it doesn’t burn, and keep the heat low when complete. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until fluffy. Add about one-fourth cup cheese and blend. Add one-half teaspoon salt and a generous crack of pepper. When the pasta is almost cooked, take a half ladle of the hot pasta water and whisk it into the egg mixture. Pour about one-fourth ladle of hot pasta water into the pan. Drain the pasta (do not rinse), and add it immediately to the pan. Turn the heat on high to boil off the water, and stir rapidly to coat the noodles with the guanciale fat. Transfer the pasta and guanciale mixture to the egg mixture, stirring rapidly with a wooden spoon to coat everything thoroughly. Serve immediately. 70 | TWIST

INGREDIENTS 1 lb pasta: spaghetti, linguine or penne Kosher salt 8 oz guanciale, pancetta, or quality smoked bacon, cut into thick strips about 1 inch long olive oil 2 tbsp butter 3 large eggs ½ cup grated pecorino (can also use parmesan)

Optional: Top with a fresh crack of pepper and another sprinkle of cheese on top just before serving.

ITALIAN DESSERTS AT HOME BY TAI KOJRO-BADZIAK • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

PANETTONE TRIFLE About one-half of a panettone 1 cup marscapone ½ cup marsala, divided Fresh red berries: strawberries, raspberries, currants ½ cup sugar, divided ½ tsp vanilla 1 wedge lemon fresh mint leaves In a metal or glass bowl, whisk mascarpone, marsala, onefourth cup sugar, and vanilla extract until smooth. Set aside. Mix the berries together in a separate bowl. Place a saucepan over medium heat. Add one-fourth cup marsala, one-fourth cup sugar, a squeeze of lemon juice and the berries. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer about 15 minutes. Set aside to cool. Cut the panettone into slices, trim off the crust, cut to size and layer it in the serving dish. Layer with a spoonful of the berry mixture, then the mascarpone cream. Repeat with one layer panettone, one layer berries, and one layer mascarpone. Garnish with a mint leaf.

AMARETTI 2 ½ cups blanched almonds 2/3 cup sugar Grated zest of ½ lemon ½ tsp natural almond extract (or 1 tsp amaretto) 1 pinch salt 2 egg whites 1/3 cup almond flakes, on a shallow plate Powdered sugar or bakers sugar, on a shallow plate Preheat the oven to 325 Fahrenheit, and line a cookie sheet with a silicone liner or parchment paper. In a food processor, combine two and one-fourth cups almonds and one-third cup sugar; pulse until finely ground. In a medium-size bowl, combine the ground almond mixture, lemon zest, almond extract and salt. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites and one-third cup sugar until stiff peaks form. Fold the meringue into the almond mixture, creating a thick paste. Take a quartersize ball of dough and flatten with your thumb, then dip one side into the flaked almond, then roll into the sugar. Place on the baking sheet. Bake for about 15 minutes. Let cool before transferring to a plate.

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TRAVEL LEMONS THE REAL FACE OF FAMILY TRAVEL BY KERYN MEANS • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM I looked out the window and thought, “Well, at least this view is better than the one at home." I was physically holding my toddler in my arms, pinning his arms to the side of his body so he wouldn’t hurt himself or anything in our rental property in Cortona, Italy. He was midtantrum. You know, just a normal day in the life of a mom with a toddler. It would last another 20 minutes. My youngest had tantrums like nothing I had ever seen in my oldest. He lived life with a passion only my own mother had experienced…in me as a toddler. Oh, how she laughed and laughed anytime I complained about my boy. As I told friends about these breakdowns on tired days while we traveled, they would ask, “Why do you even bother? Just stay home.”

72 | TWIST

Stay home? Are you kidding me? Dealing with tantrums at home is one thing. Yes, we are in our familiar space, but there isn’t an incredible bottle of Tuscan wine waiting for me at the end of it, or rolling Italian hills covered in poppies just outside the window of my multi-century-old villa. Italian grandmothers weren’t going to wait on me at home, cooing over my kids, and there aren’t three gelato shops ready to cater to my every sugar whim. So, the next time you find yourself asking the inevitable, “Why don’t I just stay home?” when your kids misbehave when you travel, ask yourself a better question: what do you want your parenting backdrop to look like? Your house, or a gorgeous Italian villa filled with pasta, wine and dolce de leche? I know my answer!

Have a travel lemons tale? Email us at hello@twisttravelmag.com

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