29 minute read
The Mississppi River
– Rule no.4 of The Ten Rules of the Canoe
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t was just before midnight when I crawled out of my tent to relieve
Imyself and saw the crescent shaped, orange-tinged harvest moon. Low in the sky, the shimmering reflection on the river was the same pumpkin shade as the celestial orb above. I was desperate to capture this image but after I had located my camera – and failed to put on a headlamp – it was too dark to adjust the settings. Disappointed at not being able to record the scene,
I shook the sand from my feet and climbed back into my sleeping bag. At least
I had a snapshot of the tableau imprinted on my memory. Just then, the evening accompaniment of cicadas and tree frogs just behind our tent restarted with vigour. I drifted off to the lullaby of an amphibian chorus. Sleep came easily after a day of paddling on the Mississippi River. Already smitten by its wild beauty and vast reach,
I sensed the special energy that came from being on swirling water among eddies, backwaters and bayous, the breeze ruffling my hair. But, make no mistake, although the rhythm and repetition of paddling is intoxicating, it is also exhausting. Another unexpected twist of nature had taken place earlier that day when three of us went exploring. After bringing the canoe alongside a sandbar and up on the beach, we set off walking, weaving a path through cottonwood, black willow and loblolly pines. On the other side of the trees, was a descent towards a pond. On the way down, we were admiring huge mussel shells when our river guide, John, spotted and seized a red-eared slider turtle. Intent on getting a closer look, I stumbled along a shallow channel towards John and this remarkable specimen. Within moments moist thick clay mixed with silt had grabbed hold and sucked me down up to my ankles. It was quick mud. Embarrassingly, I was only extracted from it with a considerable amount of effort from my fellow explorers. I imagine the turtle enjoyed seeing me struggle as he made his getaway.
THE BIG MUDDY BEGINS
This wasn’t my first time on the Mississippi River. Many years ago, I’d travelled upriver from New Orleans on a steam and fossil fuel powered paddleboat, and my friends still tease me about its non-sustainable qualities. The experience at the time was steeped in 19th century practices and lore, with most organised excursions to antebellum mansions, Civil War sites, and other cultural markers from that complicated period. During the seven-day-journey I was about to embark on, I was hoping to see a different approach to both the region’s rich history as well as how visitors could discover it.
It seemed to be a good time to revisit the Delta region. 2022 will be the 325 year anniversary of Le Moyne Sieur d’Iberville setting up a colony in the Delta region on the command of King Louis XIV. The explorer, soon to be governor, knew the Choctaw called this river Mich sha Suppukui, which was pronounced Mish sha sippi and translates as ‘river beyond any age’. I was excited to get another chance to experience the Mississippi’s timeless wonder, starting in a canoe.
It was already warm when my travelling companion and I arrived in Clarksdale, Mississippi, early on a Tuesday morning, the air heavy. We were heading for the Quapaw Canoe Company where our river adventure was about to begin. This would be my first meeting with John Ruskey who runs these outfitters and whose exploits on the river preceded him. He has paddled the river’s entire length, no mean feat as this behemoth of nature is a staggering 3,766kms long.
As we arrived and parked up, I spotted a nearby log was in the process of being carved into a small canoe; a mammoth task when done without the help of machinery. In fact, part of the Quapaw premises was akin to a woodworking shop. The sweet odour of sawdust and varnish floated in the air. Here, canoes were in various stages of completion: some wooden and some hybrid incorporating aluminium, with every finished vessel polished to a high gloss. These were, without a doubt, works of art. Also, framed fanciful water-colour paintings of maps adorned the walls, one of which was our itinerary for the next few days, The Big Muddy.
It was now to work. Wet bags needed to be packed with tents, sleeping bags, and personal items; then all food, water and supplies loaded into the station wagon. I had much to take in as a fairly new paddler. The list of ‘Ten Canoe ⊲
many tonnes of weight before them and are an efficient, cost effective method for moving freight. Little guys in canoes had to be careful not to get in their way.
I remembered reading that this river is not only a waterway but the stuff of myth, legends, prayers, folklore, and stories. The Adventures of Huckleberr y Finn, by Missourian author Mark Twain, are part of the curriculum for most youngsters growing up here and I was one of those, transfixed by the startlingly adult tales. Equally poignant is William Faulkner’s Big Woods. Faulkner’s world is of riverbanks so thick with forest as to be virtually impenetrable. The heavy black alluvial soil supported ash, maple, birch, willow, pine, cottonwood, cypress trees and a vast amount of wildlife.
Today was a short paddling day and soon time for our contingent to set up camp. As we pulled up to and disembarked on Island 64 – a river island fringed by a golden sand beach – a flock of white pelicans flew in synchronised perfection overhead. John had already set out paint brushes, paper, watercolours and was capturing the serene scene. With the day waning, Mark ‘River’ Peoples, our other
river guide, collected wood to build a campfire and soon coffee was brewing.
IT’S A NEW DAY
It wasn’t long after daybreak that I was dimly aware of the crackling fire. Then, the soft strumming of a guitar and singing wafted into my consciousness. Soon, rubbing the sleep from my eyes, I was up and grabbing that first cup of coffee. John, a self-proclaimed river rat was swimming at every opportunity. After 30 minutes of paddling, the shout of “take a break” might ring out from his position at the stern of the canoe; then, our craft would shift markedly as he unceremoniously jumped into the river to the sound of delighted laughter.
Paddling along this section of the Lower Mississippi, it was possible to see the visible water line half-way up the cotton wood trees nearly 10 metres higher than the river’s current level. The flood plain here fluctuates as much as 20m from spring high tide to summer low tide.
The excitement of the morning was spotting a sea otter frolicking in a calm section of water called an oxbow. This is where a channel veers off from the river eventually fills with water and takes on the characteristics of a lake. There was evidence of beaver activity everywhere. In fact, this entire shoreline supports deer, coyote, beaver, possum, and Louisiana Black Bear. The footprints outside our tent in the morning attested to deer exploring nearby. The forest and wetland, in turn, support frogs, snakes, reptiles and turtles, including Alabama red-bellied, northern map and eastern snapping turtle.
The Mississippi is inhabited by 25% of all North American fish species including carp, catfish, sturgeon, pike, gar and many are happy among these currents, pools, and backwaters which to name just a few. As the water is so full of silt,
The rising past (this page, clockwise from top left) Declared a National Historic Landmark in 1989. the Emerald Mound was a ceremonial centre of religious and civic rituals for the area’s Natchez people who resided in outlying villages; visitors are directed to this site – the second largest of its kind in the country – from the Natchez Trace Parkway; bald cypress knee; (right page) built during 1851–57 for cotton broker Frederick Stanton as a replica of his ancestral home in Ireland, Stanton Hall is a 19th-century Greek revival-style antebellum mansion house found in Natchez
I only noticed fish when they jumped out of the water or when ‘Rivers’ managed a catch. But our canoe trip was nearing its wild, wet end, and I was off to explore another wetland not very far away.
SWAMP LIFE
Loaded up with supplies, we tumbled back into our RV and headed inland then south. Although Mississippi is usually associated with scenes of oak trees draped in Spanish moss and vast fields of cotton, there are other places with creatures and flora that thrive – some in small, wet, fishless eco-systems. The primordial ooze that dominates these landscapes has changed little over the millennia with many inhabitants unchanged as well.
My destination was the Cypress Swamp near Canton. Once part of the Pearl River, this partially submerged forest is one of that river’s tributaries, cut-off and flooded untold years ago. Approaching the swamp, I remembered my time on the Pearl River, near the Louisiana border on the east side of Lake Pontchartrain, where the waters are deep and wide. I discovered that it’s possible to see enormous ’gators with their razor-sharp teeth up close, an experience both exciting and terrifying. With this in mind, I entered this boggy world via a long boardwalk over the murky water, and then was in its grasp.
The Cypress Swamp is full of trees able to survive in completely unique conditions: Bald cypress, swamp black gum, and water tupelo. The deciduous trees also here, red maple and oak, were already taking on the golden sheen of autumn while the swamp black-gum had
turned red, orange and purple. It’s amazing seeing these formidable trees reflected in the water in all their colourful glory.
A trail leads around towards an even denser woodland but always following the water’s edge. The swamp might have been deeper here as cattails and common reeds were thriving. A few wildflowers were here, several wild orchids and, on slightly drier ground, were clusters of mushrooms in taupe, ochre, yellow and orange shades. Spectacularly, the ‘knees’ of bald cypress trees’ roots protruded above the surface of the water; this adaptation allows the tree to breathe and gives them an anthropomorphic quality.
A tiny bridge led towards a shady bit of the swamp, shielding me from the sun. Then I made my first animal sighting. It was a baby red-and-black alligator slithering along and across the surface. When resting, it appeared as a motionless piece of bark. Ethereal dragonflies flitted about as if watching in approval.
This smaller swamp is home to tiny yet important amphibians such as the dusky gopher frogs, salamanders, newts, and, of course, snakes. Being something of a newt nerd, I spent quite a lot of my time right next to the water, hunting for these teeny, adorable beasties, and wishing I could linger longer.
NAVIGATING NATCHEZ
In the last part of my journey, I was travelling the Natchez Trace Parkway. A speed controlled parkway, rather than just a road, it was constructed in the 20th century to mirror the entire length of this ancient trace [trail] and only finished in 2005.
This parkway follows the old trail and cuts through what were the Choctaw and Chickasaw nations. As my son from my first marriage is part Choctaw, I found it quite emotional to view the enormous placard on the Trace delineating where the Choctaw territories were and when they lost their land, thought to be in the millions of acres. The signpost explains that the document signed in 1820, called the Treaty of Doak’s Stand, was basically a ploy to steal the territory.
Perhaps not as important as rivers for transport, the Natchez Trace was, in the distant past, critically important to large animals such as woolly mammoth and then bison. Much of the trail was along higher ground which traversed murky, marsh land. Starting in Tennessee, its terminus is 715kms later in the town of Natchez – once a tribal stronghold. When humans appeared on the scene, they routinely used the trail for hunting and trading, the evidence of key Paleo-Indian activities still visible along its path. Large burial mounds are here including the Emerald Mound constructed in about AD1200, a vast creation around 10 acres across.
Once Europeans arrived, even more people’s livelihoods depended on both the river and this important trail. After a pilgrimage to visit Tupelo, the birthplace of Elvis Presley, I made a detour to the nearby Natchez Trace National Park Headquar ters. Here I learned about the Kaintuck people who would sail down the river to sell their goods and then walk back, a round trip of about 485 kilometres.
I used the Trace campgrounds for a base from which to hike the old sunken part of the trail. Although primitive campsites, they allowed oppor tunities to stop for an extended time. One such trail spur takes hikers through to Jackson Falls, where I took time to explore the waterfalls, at the same time as enjoying the bluffs and rock faces.
THE CURRENT FLOWS ON
I could easily see why Mr Ruskey was so passionate about getting people out on the river. It’s the Quapaw outfitters’ mission to encourage those afraid of the water or perhaps the wilderness, or who might not have the resource for a canoeing adventure, to have this opportunity.
With night falling, I was reminded of my over-riding memory of my first Mississippi River experience. When the paddleboat engines stopped and we were just being gently buoyed by the water, there was nothing but wilderness, nothing human built beyond the river’s barely visible shores. This was far more intriguing than the tugs, bridges, towns and hamlets we had seen during daylight. In fact, at night, the GPS map on board was often completely blank save for the outline of the shore and a few river islands. There was something mystical about this.
My present-day experience of the river had allowed me to explore this wilderness without an artificial engine, with my arms as the motor and my eyes the radar. Exuberant nature surrounded me at ever y turn, allowing a reconnection with creation and, ultimately, myself. It was renewing and definitely exhilarating. With every breath filled with the air, the water, the sky, the stars, and with this being observed by curious wildlife, it left me gasping for more. And to have miles of space virtually to oneself with only the presence of a single fisherman or, perhaps, a passing canoe was not only expansive but life affirming. I made a promise to myself to return once again, to see what mysteries the wilderness might want to share. After all, ‘the river beyond any age’ would still be waiting for me. ⊲
The Ten Rules of the Canoe
As developed by the contingent of Washington State’s Quileute people to the Northwest Experiential Education Conference in 1990
1Every stroke we take is one less we have to make. Even against the most relentless wind or retrograde tide, somehow a canoe moves forward. This mystery can only be explained by the fact that each pull forward is real movement and not delusion.
2There is to be no abuse of self or others. Respect and trust cannot exist in anger, it must be thrown overboard where the sea can cleanse it. It has to be washed off the hands and cast into the air so the stars can take care of it.
3Be flexible because the adaptable animal survives. If you get tired, ship your paddle and rest. If you get hungry, put in on the beach and eat a few oysters. If you can’t figure one way to make it, do something new. When the wind confronts you, it is sometimes because you are supposed to go the other way.
4Every story is important. The bow, the stern, the skipper, the power puller in the middle, everyone is part of the movement. The elder sits in her cedar at the front, singing her paddle song, praying for us all. The weary paddler resting is still ballast.
5We all pull and support each other as nothing occurs in isolation. When we aren’t part of the family of a canoe, we are not ready for whatever comes. The family will never let itself sink. When we know that we are not alone in our actions, we also know we are lifted up by everyone else. 6 A hungry person has no charity so always nourish yourself. The bitter person, thinking that sacrifice means self-destruction, shares mostly anger. A paddler who doesn’t eat at the feasts doesn’t have enough strength to paddle in the morning. The gift of who you are only enters the world when you are strong enough to own it.
7Experiences are not enhanced through criticism. Who we are, what we do, why we continue, flourishes with tolerance. The men and women who find the lightest flow may sometimes go slow, but when they arrive, they can still sing.
8The journey is what we enjoy. Although the start is exciting and the conclusion achieved, it is the long, steady process we remember. Being part of the journey requires great preparation; being done with a journey requires great awareness; being on the journey, we are much more than ourselves.
9A good teacher allows the student to learn. We can berate each other, try to force each other to understand, or we can allow each paddler to gain their awareness through the ongoing journey. Each paddler learns to deal with the person in front, the person behind, the water, the air, the energy, the blessing of the eagle.
10 When given a choice, choose to be a worker bee and make honey.
THE TRIP
America As You Like It has a 14-night RV holiday from £1,095 per person, based on four sharing, including return flights on British Airways from Heathrow to Nashville, two nights’ room-only in Nashville and 12 nights’ C25 RV rental from Cruise America. The trip includes insurance, unlimited mileage, unlimited generator usage, kitchen, and personal kits. RV pick-up is in Franklin, 35km south of Nashville International Airport. americaasyoulikeit.com; 020 8742 8299 Vital statistics
Mississippi capital: Jackson Population: 3 million Time: Central (GMT + 6) Dialling Code: +1 VISAS: ESTA required Money: USA Dollars, currently $1 to £0.75.
When to go
Spring and autumn are the best times to visit Mississippi. June-August Summer season is very hot and humid with temperatures averaging 32°C. Sticky weather is compounded by the arrival of hurricane season, which runs through September. June averages more than 298 hours of sunshine. September-November Autumn or shoulder season – the temperature is much milder and perfect for outdoor activities. There can occasionally be intermittent showers. December-March The Mississippi winter can bring inclement weather and sometimes freezing temperatures. April-May Spring is when the weather is temperate and everything is in blossom. A spectacular time of year. Health & safety
Check the UK FCDO guidelines for the most up-to-date information on travel and entry requirements (gov.uk). Insect repellent is necessary most of the year, particularly if staying near any river or lake. It is vitally important to use high factor sun cream, particularly in summer, and to wear a head covering. Bring a refillable water bottle, and stay well hydrated, especially on hot days. Watch out for poison oak – a three-leaf shrub that causes a red rash (which can be treated with cold compresses). See fitfortravel.nhs.uk for health updates and vaccination info.
Getting there
Direct flights to Nashville are with British Airways (ba.com) from London Heathrow and operate Sun/Tues/Thurs until the end of March, when an additional flight is planned (flight time around 9hrs; from £447; ba.com). Non-direct flights with Virgin arrive via hubs such as Atlanta, Boston and New York.
Getting around
The USA has a car culture so factor in the expense of rental cars (costs ⊲
vary depending on the size of the vehicle, whether you rent a hybrid and the time of year) or an RV rental and include the cost of petrol, which varies from state to state. Uber is now a very popular option, particularly in cities, but you must have the app installed to use this service.
Accommodation
The Lofts at the Five & Dime, Clarksdale, (fiveanddimelofts. com) is a boutique hotel located in the historic Woolworth building downtown and offers unique apartment-style accommodation that blends modern style and amenities with traditional Southern charm and comfort. From $150[£112] pn.
For history buffs, the Monmouth Historic Inn (monmouthhistoricinn.com) in Natchez is ideal as this National Historic Landmark is surrounded by historic sites and elegant vistas of the surrounding area. A 19th century antebellum mansion, it is set in 26-acres of gardens and located near the Mississippi River. From $235[£175] pn.
If visiting Starkville, the Historic Hotel Chester (historichotelchester.com) is a perfect choice as this restored 1925 building is only minutes from the Mississippi State University Campus. The hotel’s Beer Gardens were featured on an episode of Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen and there is now a Gordon Burger in honour of the famous ‘angry’ chef. From $101[£75] pn.
Campgrounds
For those planning an RV rental or the more rustic option of a tent, campsites along the Natchez Trace Parkway are first come, first serve and free of charge. Maximum length of stay is 14 days. This includes the Rocky Springs (Milepost 54.8), Jeff Busby (Milepost 193.1) and Meriwether Lewis (Milepost 385.9) locations. Trace State Park (mdwfp.com) in Belden, near Tupelo, is situated on a fishing lake and has many miles of hiking trails. The Movietown RV Park (movietownrvpark.com) near Canton is in a lovely rural setting.
Further reading & info
Tourism websites include:deep-south-usa.com msbluestrail.org visitmississippi.org nps.gov/natr/index.htm Books to read include William Faulkner’s Big Woods; The Tales of Huckleberry Finn by Mark Twain; and I Am Coyote: Readings for the Wild compiled by Jay Schoenberger.
MISSISSIPPI HIGHLIGHTS
1QUAPAW CANOE OUTFITTERS
Named for one of the local Indian tribes, Quapaw Outfitters’ main operation is in Clarksdale but has two other outposts on the Lower Mississippi River. This outfitter organises bespoke paddling/canoeing expeditions. They sell and rent canoes, accessories and most related equipment. Owner John Ruskey is renowned for his artwork, apprentice programme, charitable activities and school trips on the river.
2THE BILL WALLER CRAFT CENTER
Located in Ridgeland, right next to the old Natchez Trace Trail, the home and museum for the Craftsmen’s Guild of Mississippi opened in 1973 and was the creation of Governor William Waller. The Center works to preserve and promote regional crafts as well as supporting craft makers.
3ELVIS PRESLEY’S BIRTHPLACE
In the north-east of the state, Tupelo is famous for being the birthplace of Elvis. The Presleys’ two-room ‘shotgun’ home where he grew up is here plus the chapel he used to attend. Stop by Johnnie’s Drive In where it is reported Elvis used to enjoy an RC Cola. Kermit’s Soul Kitchen in the town centre serves up a mean St Louis ribs as well as pulled chicken and cornbread.
4ROWAN OAK In Oxford, Mississippi, is the primitive two-story Greek Revival home of novelist William Faulkner. Though a run-down property, the four acres of red cedar, magnolia and cypress trees were the sweetener that convinced the Faulkners to buy it, with Faulkner himself doing most of the renovation. Apparently, the writer felt that the dense forest of Rowan Oak helped develop his sense of multi-layered time, where the “past is never dead. It isn’t even past.” 5 NATCHEZ TRACE PARKWAY
Required to be kept free of commercialisation, this 715km long scenic byway follows the path of the old Natchez Trace Trail. The Parkway is actually an extensive national park with campgrounds, points of historic interest and facilities all along its route.
6RED’S LOUNGE In Clarksdale, Mississippi, you can find one of the last remaining juke joints – a place where entertainment, music, gambling and drinking take place and is primarily operated by African Americans. Red’s Lounge may be small and even slightly ramshackle but its authentic vibe is infectious. Red, the owner, can be found most nights sitting in the corner watching old Westerns on a big screen TV. It is located just around the corner from Ground Zero, a blues club founded by Morgan Freeman in 2001.
7DELTA BLUES MUSEUM Another highlight of Clarksdale is the Delta Blues Museum. You will find an incredible number of artefacts of Delta musicians here, including guitars, clothing and other musical instruments such as harmonicas. The cabin that Muddy Waters grew up in on the nearby Stovall Plantation is here. Yes, the entire building.
8TISHOMINGO STATE PARK
Located in the foothills of the Appalachians, Tishomingo State Park takes its name from the leader of the Chickasaw nation, Chief Tishomingo. The Natchez Trace Parkway runs directly through the park, where excavations have confirmed the presence of Paleo Indians. Explore massive rock formations and boulders as well as fern-filled crevices and wildflower border trails. There is an RV campground, primitive camping, cabins and also a cottage available.
WANDERLUST
RECOMMENDS
See Cat on a Hot Tin Roof by Tennessee Williams, who hailed from Columbus, Mississippi. www.youtube.com – “Canoeing down the Mississippi River - Quapaw Canoe“ Mississippi Outdoors TV go on a multi-day canoe trip with the Quapaw Canoe Company.
Walk on the wild side
(clockwise from this) Around 80% of the Yukon is wilderness, meaning there are ample routes for hikers; grizzly bear; see the northern lights between late August and mid-April; see Kluane NP from above on a flight seeing tour; go back in time in Dawson City
THE ROAD TO ADVENTURE
Four epic adventures to have in the Yukon
With larger-thanlife landscapes patrolled by myriad wildlife and highways from which to admire them, the Yukon is made for the ultimate road-trip adventure. Here are just four of the many experiences you can expect along the way…
GO WILDLIFE WATCHING
The Yukon’s wildlife is strangely underrated but if there’s one place to put that right, it’s Kluane National Park. It boasts Canada’s tallest mountains (Mount Logan, 5,959m) many of which culminate in fine views of lakes such as Kathleen and Dezadeash. Soak up the views from a different angle on a flight seeing tour, or trot through the park on a guided horseriding tour.
For an iconic experience, head to the Beaver River to canoe past bears on the banks, swimming river otters and eagles. The streams which feed the Tatshenshini River in Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park, meanwhile, are ideal for rafting or kayaking. Over in the wild hinterlands surrounding the Yukon’s capital Whitehorse, year-round adventure awaits: hiking and biking and horseriding in the summer, dog-sledding and snowshoeing in winter.
and the biggest ice field outside the Poles, together forming a vast wilderness, prime for adventure.
The large concentration of grizzly bears is the main drawcard of the park. Keep your eyes peeled for lynx, wolves and wolverines in its forests and spy Dall sheep and mountain goats at Kluane Lake, with golden eagles and peregrine falcons soaring overhead.
SEARCH FOR GOLD
Mention the Yukon and most people think of the Gold Rush, where 100,000 people flocked to the Klondike region between 1896 and 1899. The dust clouds from the gold-chasing stampede still hang heavy over Dawson City, the gold rush’s epicentre. Many of the era’s buildings have survived, including the Palace Grand Theatre and Jack London’s Cabin, once home to a prospector who documented his adventures in several books. To follow in his gold-hunting footsteps, head south to trace the 53km Chilkoot Trail near Whitehorse, where rusting mining machinery and equipment are sprinkled among the lakes and alpine scenery. Or canoe Bennett Lake as the miners would have years before.
EXPLORE THE WILDERNESS
The Yukon isn’t just a haven for gold miners and wildlife, it’s a playground for adrenalin-seekers, too. Kluane NP is webbed with walking trails that trace former mining roads and old riverbeds,
ENJOY NATURE’S BEST SHOWS
Nothing quite beats seeing the northern lights painting teal-tinted streaks on the Yukon’s ink-black skies between late August and mid-April. Enjoy sightings among the pristine landscapes surrounding Whitehorse, or see the aurora reflected in Kluane’s lakes.
The Midnight Dome viewpoint above Dawson City is a microcosm of the Yukon’s capacity to deliver pinch-me moments all year round: when the nights are long, you can see the aurora and when the nights are shorter, it offers unrivalled views of the midnight sun – both memorable finales.
A N A L T E R N A T I V E ST PATRICK’S DAY
Why the lesser-visited island of Montserrat celebrates St Patrick’s Day
At just over 17km long and 11km wide, and tucked just south of Antigua and Barbuda, Montserrat is one of the Caribbean’s lesserknown islands. It has all the usual draws you’d expect from a tropical island – unspoilt beaches, thriving coral reefs, rainforestcovered hills – but what may surprise visitors the most is its rich Afro-Irish heritage, which can be seen and felt all over the country.
You’ll find villages with names such as Cork Hill, St Patrick’s and Delvins, meet people with Irish surnames including O’Garro, Allen and Sweeney, and you’ll even receive a shamrock-shaped passport stamp when you pass through security. It should come as no surprise, then, that Montserrat is the only country outside of Ireland that celebrates St Patrick’s Day as a national holiday. Here’s what to expect from the Emerald Isle of the Caribbean’s St Patrick’s celebrations…
Why is St Patrick’s Day celebrated in Montserrat?
To understand this, we need to go as far back at 1768, when indentured servants from Ireland fled persecution in St Kitts and settled in Montserrat, some going on to become wealthy plantation owners using slave labour. On 17 March 1768, African slaves planned an uprising, choosing St Patrick’s Day as most of the slave masters would be drunk and distracted by the holiday.
However, the plan was discovered and thwarted. Tragically, nine people were hanged for their role in the revolt and many more were imprisoned. The St Patrick’s Day celebration is therefore two-fold, as it commemorates the 1768 attempted revolt, while also recognising the island’s Irish heritage.
Did you know? Montserrat’s flag features Erin playing the golden harp.
How does it differ to Ireland’s celebrations?
Unlike in Ireland, in true Caribbean fashion, Montserrat’s version is celebrated for ten consecutive days, from 7 – 17 March. The first day starts at Cudjoe Head – a village named after the person who led the revolt – with a solemn torch lighting ceremony at a silk-cotton tree.
The next ten days see the island abuzz with festivity, outdoor activities and colour. All guest rooms and villas are filled with visitors from neighbouring islands and countries the world over. There’s something for everyone, from art exhibitions, lectures and an African-wear fashion show to coastal tours, drag races, fun hikes and a five kilometre road race called the Freedom Run.
There are also open air concerts with appropriately themed names such as Leprechaun’s Revenge, Emerald City Fest
The Emerald Isle
(clockwise from left) Emerald Shamioles masquerade dancers; the Soufrière Hills volcano; people enjoying Leprechaun’s Dust fete; purple-throated carib is just one of the many species of birds you can see on Montserrat; Woodlands Beach; costumed revellers
and Gold Rush, featuring top soca and reggae artists from the Caribbean.
The main day of celebration, on 17 March, starts early. The parade dominates the streets featuring revellers dressed in colourful costumes and men wearing kilts in Montserrat’s traditional green and orange madras colours, African and colonial wear, with iron bands and drummers setting the beat. Masquerade dancers are hauntingly hypnotic in their red masks and colourful costumes with ornate mirrors and ribbons, as they pay homage to their ancestors.
Drums and fifes (similar to a recorder) accompany dance performances such as the heel and toe polka, which is influenced by both the island’s African and Irish heritage. Sweet Caribbean music can be heard everywhere across the island and food fairs fill the air with the aromas of barbecued chicken, goat water and other traditional delicacies, which can be washed down with a rum punch, the island’s exotic and potent bush rum, or, of course, a cold Guinness.
Top tip: Don’t leave without sampling the Irish-influenced national dish – goat water. A traditional hearty brown stew made with goat meat and often served with bread.
What else is there to do in Montserrat?
Heaps! With a diversity of travel experiences including beautiful beaches and a rich cultural heritage, you’ll be spoilt for choice when choosing how to spend your time.
For an archaeological fix, visit Soldier Ghaut to admire the petroglyphs engraved on a volcanic rock. They were only discovered in 2016 and are thought to have been carved by Amerindians some 1,000 to 1,500 years ago.
Nature lovers should head to the middle of the island where several marked hiking trails weave through the Centre Hills, the island’s largest forested area. The two-kilometre Oriole Walkway Trail, for example, takes you through thick foliage to the top of the over 400m-high Lawyers Mountain with its sweeping views of the Silver Hills and Caribbean Sea. Keep your eyes peeled for the national bird, the Montserrat oriole after which the trail is named.
The peak of Jack Boy Hill to the east makes for a perfect finale. Enjoy a picnic while looking out over to the Soufrière Hills volcano and the surrounding islands. Not the St Patrick’s Day celebration you were expecting, is it?
