Off The Grid

There’s a lot of waterfront here – too much, even, for a city that faces the sea and backs onto a lake, Mariout. Rising sea levels are a very real threat here, where the coastline is slowly being eroded and where parts of the ancient already lie beneath the waves. Walk the corniche around the Eastern harbour, past the Moorish façade of the old Cecil Hotel, past men fishing off the concrete breakwaters, and as you look out to sea, on your left you have the Mamluk grandeur of the fort of Sultan Qaitbay built on the site of the Pharos, the lighthouse that was one of seven wonders of the ancient world, and on your right the shiny glass and concrete of Bibliotheca. When it first opened, the library was mocked for having empty bookshelves, but true to the spirit of the city, it has taken its time and grown into itself, and now boasts a number of museums, exhibition and performance spaces and a range of activities for locals and visitors.

The idea that much of the city remains hidden from view has long obsessed archaeologists and tomb raiders, all hoping to find the long-lost tomb of the city’s founder. Heinrich Schliemann, who uncovered ancient Troy and the golden mask of Agamemnon, decided there was nothing for him here. That hasn’t stopped many others from looking, my favourite being a waiter from Piraeus in the mid-20th century who spent his holidays each year searching for the city’s founder. I would suggest you devote your time searching for easier targets – walk through the ancient catacombs, for instance, or over the nearby ruins of the temple of the god Serapis, once one of the classical world’s grandest buildings, now marked only by Pompey’s Pillar; around the excavated ancient villas and theatre, or through the galleries of the National Museum. But in spite of the grandeur of those places, what I have always loved best in Alexandria is the spirit of the city and that, for the past century, has been most richly felt in its cafés. Start with a walk through the café of Ali Elhendi – you’ll find it in the grand building on the corner of Salah Salem and Ahmed Ourabi streets. The building is one of the grand 19th centur y mansions that lined what was called, simply, The Square, and the café, a scattering of tables and chairs, occupies part of what was the mansion's internal courtyard.

Pastroudis, where Lawrence Durrell used to hang out, and the Union may have gone, but Delices is still there beside the tram station, and nearby, facing the sea, is the Trianon. This was the Grand Trianon a century ago and there is still a grandeur about it. There’s still a lingering trace of the poet Cavafy, too, whose office was in the building upstairs. Now, it is a favoured meeting place of the city’s better-heeled young, who linger over a cappuccino or an over-sweet gateau making plans, as people have made plans in this spot for the past 2,000 years, shaped by the city that they will now reshape, the eternal dance of the city that still looks out of Egypt across the Mediterranean.

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Small & characterful Alexander the Great

The Alex is less great than its name suggests, but the best budget option for sightseeing, occupying the upper floors of an office and apartment building situated close to the promenade. Rooms are spotless, air-conditioned and balconied but ask for one off the street – the school across the road is noisy day and night.

Mid-range The Cecil

The best of the old colonial hotels, mentioned by Lawrence Durrell among others, the Cecil has been an institution since it opened on the waterfront in 1929. Now part of the Steigenberger group, it remains the obvious choice if you want to balance nostalgia with a bit of comfort. www.steigenberger.com

Best address in town Four Seasons Alexandria

The Alexandria is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons luxury brand. A huge building with sumptuous, internationalstyle rooms, separated from its private beach by the multi-lane waterfront highway, this is as slick as it gets in Alexandria. Delicious food and expertly prepared drinks. www.fourseasons. com/alexandria

4 TOP THINGS TO SEE

Visit…

The Roman catacombs are a mix of ancient Egyptian and Roman; the theatre and villas at Kom el Dikka a reminder of the glory of the past; the 15th century fort of Qaitbay sits on the site of the Pharos, the lighthouse that was one of seven wonders of the ancient world; and the halls of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina sits on the site of the ancient library.

Swim…

Although some city centre beaches are dirty, if you venture west to Agami or east at Montazah there is some delightful swimming.

Shop…

The souks might not be as exciting as in Turkey, but there are still joys in the old Attarine market – on my latest visit, I bought a 1960s English ship’s clock.

Eat…

You’re by the sea, so there is great fish to be had. Walk through the Anfushi fish market to whet your appetite and then head for the Fish Market or Greek Club (Blue and White), both on the harbour. Or look for the Cap d’Or, more a beer bar then restaurant, although the calamari stew can be brilliant.

WANDERLUST

RECOMMENDS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPoF4uSKPt0 Travel blogger Jason Billam crams as many of the highlights of the city on a day tour. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3mlxIDh8Xk Academic discussion of Lawrence Durrell’s Alexandria novels and the city’s literary history. https://open.spotify.com ‘Egyptian Folk’ playlist collects together more traditional sounds, while a 2021 playlist will give you the latest hits.