British Break

DAY 1

Make today a tale of two towns. Oakham, Rutland’s capital, is a pottering sort of place: wander between the market square (markets every Weds and Sat), Norman-era Oakham Castle (free; oakhamcastle.org), the County Museum (free; rutlandcountymuseum.org.uk), the high street and side alleys. Get refreshments at Scandi-inspired Fika (fikacafe.co.uk), Otters (ottersfinefoods.co.uk) or pick up a Rutland pippin – Lincolnshire pork, Stilton and apple sauce in an apple-shaped pastry case – from Hambleton Bakery (hambletonbakery.co.uk).

Then hop on a bus or drive to Uppingham (top left) a small, handsome market town, dominated by Uppingham School. Follow the Heritage Trail (loveuppingham.org.uk) and grab a drink on the main square at Don Paddy’s (donpaddys. co.uk) and a slice of Battenberg at Baines Bakery (bainesbakery.co.uk). Then consider a walk further afield: try a 10-12km loop south, via the church at Stoke Dry, Eyebrook Reservoir and the chocolate-box village of Lyddington.

Finish with fine dining at Uppingham’s Lake Isle restaurant (lakeisle.co.uk).

Getting there: Rutland sits in the centre of England, so isn’t a long drive from anywhere (around 2.5hrs from both London and Manchester). Oakham, on the Birmingham-Stansted Cross Country Line, is the county’s only train station. Bus routes within Rutland are limited (especially at weekends) but connect some towns and villages, including Oakham and Uppingham (centrebus.info). The Rutland Belle plies the eastern end of Rutland Water, April-October (rutlandwatercruises.com). See discover-rutland.co.uk. Stay at: The Wisteria Hotel is in the heart of Oakham, with good food and comfortable rooms; B&B doubles from £90pn (wisteriahotel. co.uk). The Falcon Hotel is a 16th-century coaching inn on Uppingham’s market square, with a quality restaurant, pretty garden and cosy lounge; B&B doubles from £115pn (falcon-hotel.co.uk).

DAY 2

There’s no ignoring Rutland Water (top right). This reservoir was created in 1975 following the flooding of the Gwash Valley (and two ancient hamlets with it) and is now the county’s inland sea – an outdoor playground and wildlife refuge.

A 27km almost-traffic-free cycle trail encircles the Water, or 37km including the optional circuit of hilly Hambleton Peninsula (recommended). Hire a bike or ebike at Whitwell, on the north shore (from £25; rutlandcycling.com) and spend a day riding around; pedal anti-clockwise to get the harder bits done first. Stop at The Anglian Water Bird Watching Centre at Egleton, where hides overlook the lagoons (lrwt.org.uk/rutlandwater). Stop for lunch in Manton, either at the Horse & Jockey Inn (horseandjockeyrutland. co.uk) or lovely Wellies cafe at the Garden Nursery (rutlandnursery.co.uk). Pause at LRWT’s Lyndon Visitor Centre, the place to see ospreys in summer, and continue via Edith Weston village, ‘floating’ Normanton church, the dam and the swimming beach to return to Whitwell.

End the day back in Oakham, with dinner at the Admiral Hornblower (hornblowerhotel.co.uk).

4 TOP THINGS TO DO

EAT your way around the Rutland Food & Drink Trail. This driving or cycling route visits a range of producers across the ‘County of Good Taste’, from brewers and gin distillers to coffee grinders and bread bakers. discover-rutland.co.uk

WALK around the entire county. The 100km Rutland Round roughly traces the perimeter, leading via attractive villages, awardwinning pubs and quiet countryside, with detours to Oakham and Rutland Water. There’s no need to do it all at once: the official guidebook (£6.75; cordee.co.uk) breaks it into five sections. Also, the Rutland Local History & Record Society website has an interesting selection of village walks. rutlandhistory.org

INHALE the floral delights at Barnsdale Gardens. Open year-round, Barnsdale is a collection of 38 themed and individuallydesigned garden ‘rooms’, fun to explore even if you’re not especially greenfingered. There’s an excellent tea room too. From £8.50pp; barnsdalegardens.co.uk

DETOUR to

Stamford. This stone-built Georgian town is a smidgen over the county line in Lincolnshire but a worthy add on (and is connected to Rutland by bus). Its narrow lanes are lined with independent shops and cafes. Burghley House, one of the England’s grandest Elizabethan houses, is nearby. £20pp; burghley.co.uk