Indigenous Culture

British Columbia

Canada’s western province is the place to immerse yourself in the history, traditions, legends and ceremonies of the country’s diverse first inhabitants, says Theresa Storm

etween the Pacific Ocean and Rocky Mountains,

BBritish Columbia (BC) is Canada’s westernmost province. It is also the second-most visited by international tourists, drawn to the scenic beauty of its vast wildernesses as well as Canadian wildlife greats such as grizzly bears and orcas, ancient rainforests, majestic mountain ranges and scores of islands, lakes and waterfalls. Plus there’s another compelling reason to visit. British Columbia is home to Canada’s most diverse indigenous cultures.

Long before the arrival of Europeans, the original inhabitants – the First Nations, Métis and Inuit Peoples – lived here in what is now known as BC for more than 10,000 years. They developed unique societies, customs, traditions, territories and laws. Lifestyle and culture evolved distinctly depending on whether one lived on the north-west coast or in the Northwest Plateau, between the Coast Mountains and the Rockies, leading to vast differences between the peoples. They are united, however, by a deep connection to nature, a rich oral tradition and respect for elders.

When explorers and settlers arrived in the mid-18th century, the indigenous numbered in the thousands. Today, there are approximately 200,000, about 4% of BC’s 5.2 million residents. British Columbia is Canada’s most diverse province for indigenous peoples, home to 198 distinct First

Nations, one-third of Canada’s total. And with 34 living languages and close to 60 dialects spoken, BC also counts the most First Nations languages.

With such a richness of cultures and a visitor-focused economy, British Columbia has a vibrant and ever-growing indigenous travel industry in all six of the province’s diverse regions, helmed by Indigenous Tourism BC (ITBC; indigenousbc.com). The Coast Salish, Nuu-chah-nulth and Kwakwakaw’akw are experts at navigating the Pacific Ocean around Vancouver Island; northern BC is home to many distinct indigenous peoples, including the Nisga’a, Haida and Tahltan; the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast, which spans the province’s lower middle from the Pacific Coast to the Cariboo Mountains, is the territory of the Secwepemc, Tsilhqot’in, and Dakelh; the Vancouver Coast and Mountains is homeland of the Coast Salish people, including Squamish, Lil’wat, Sto:lo, Musqueam and Tsleil-Waututh; the Nlaka’pamux, Okanagan and Secwepemc First Nations live in the Thompson Okanagan region; while the Ktunaxa inhabit the rugged Kootenay Rockies area.

By choosing indigenous-owned and -operated tourism experiences, travellers share in living languages, cultures and traditions, gleaning understanding and creating more meaningful connections to people, land and wildlife. The following are six places for visitors to get a taste of the many diverse indigenous experiences on offer in British Columbia.

Parading in the New Year

Thousands of indigenous people from different tribes join together to celebrate the Hoobiyee, the Nisga’a community’s Lunar New Year; (below) native Haida dancers perform in traditional regalia, Old Massett on Graham Island in Haida Gwaii

Six places in British Columbia’s six regions with enriching indigenous cultural experiences

1Vancouver Island In an old-growth rainforest on the rugged west coast, the Yuu-thlu-ilthaht (Ucluelet) First Nation built Wya Point Resort (http://www.wyapoint. com/#) on the prior site of a village outside Ucluelet. Choose from tent and RV camping or waterfront yurts with private access to Wya Beach or nine luxurious ocean-front timber lodges built with local red cedar. Raised on stilts, each lodge is designed by a local carver and artist and named for an important animal. The totem poles in each are works of art.

2Northern BC Accessible by plane or ferry, the Haida Heritage Centre at K’aay Llnagaay (Sea Lion Town) resembles the ancient seaside village that once stood here on Haida Gwaii, an archipelago off BC’s north-west coast. Six master-carved totem poles front the complex, representing the southernmost villages. Watch artists at work on monumental poles and canoes in the Carving House, then learn about Haida’s vital mode of transportation in the Canoe House. The Saving Things House – the Haida Gwaii Museum – displays historical objects, art and natural history collections. haidaheritagecentre.com

3Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Deep in the Great Bear Rainforest – part of the world’s largest coastal temperate rainforest – beneath a canopy of red cedar trees lie the 10,000-year-old Thorsen Creek petroglyphs. Hike into the Bella Coola Valley site with Copper Sun Journeys (coppersunjourneys.com). At mosscovered rocks etched with carvings by his Nuxalk ancestors, Chris Nelson interprets their meanings and shares, through words and songs, the Nuxalk people’s story “through our eyes, right from creation through to smallpox and the potlatch ban, to today.”

4Vancouver Coast & Mountains

The Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre (slcc.ca) in Whistler showcases the art and heritage of the Squamish and Lil’wat Nations – Salish-speaking Coast and Interior neighbours. The Great Hall is crowned by a 12-metre Salish hunting canoe carved from a single cedar tree. Join a cultural ambassador for a tour or make a drum or dreamcatcher. In Vancouver, the Museum of Anthropology at UBC (moa.ubc.ca) highlights First Nations works, which include a glass-walled Great Hall with towering poles and house posts. Don’t miss the world’s largest collection of pieces by famed Haida artist Bill Reid.

5Thompson Okanagan Nk’Mip Cellars is North America’s first indigenous-owned and -operated winery, situated on Osoyoos Indian Band land in the South Okanagan (greatestatesokanagan.com/Visit-Us/ NkMip-Cellars). Sup international award-wining wines paired with farm-to-table bites, prepped with indigenous techniques, at the Patio Restaurant overlooking Lake Osoyoos. Nearby, at the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre (nkmipdesert.com), walking trails reveal the band’s deep ties to Canada’s only pocket desert. Stay at Spirit Ridge (hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/ canada/spirit-ridge/ylwub) next door.

6Kootenay Rockies Nestled into the mountainside along the shore of Kootenay Lake, Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort (ainsworthhotsprings.com) is in the traditional homelands of the Ktunaxa. After battle, warriors soaked in the medicinal spirit waters. Today the healing hot springs are still a place for good medicine. Bathe in the mineralrich restorative waters in a natural horseshoe cave or in the lounging pool, and then indulge in a treatment, like a steamy body wrap with wild medicinal plants, in the refurbished Spirit Water Spa.

Indigenous art

(clockwise from top left) Depicting the Haida creation myth and carved from a single block of laminated yellow cedar, The Raven and the First Men is a sculpture by Haida artist Bill Reid and found in the rotunda of the University of British Columbia’s Museum of Anthropology; the Haida Heritage Centre at K’aay Llnagaay, Graham Island, Haida Gwaii; ancient prehistoric petroglyph carved by indigenous First Nations people in the Great Bear Rainforest region, Bella Coola