Wanted in Rome - August 2017

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AUGUST 2017 € 2,00

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 8



CONTENTS

TITOLO

NO. 8 / AUGUST 2017 EDITORIALS

JOURNEY INTO HIDDEN ETRURIA Judith Works. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 TOP 10 BEACHES NEAR ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 TOP 10 OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 TOP 10 WATER SPORTS NEAR ROME. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 ROME’S DECORATED HOUSES Arianna Farina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

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WHAT’S ON

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 CLASSICAL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 FESTIVALS IN ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 FESTIVALS AROUND ITALY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 ACADEMIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

CLASSIFIED COLUMNS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

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MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 ART GALLERIES IN ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 USEFUL NUMBERS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 NEXT PUBLICATION AND CLASSIFIED DATES Next publication dates are 6 Sept and 4 Oct. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 27 Aug (for 6 Sept) and 24 Sept (for 4 Oct). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Il grande stagno (detail) by Giancarlo Limoni, 1993-1994, oil on canvas, Collezione De Filippo, Bari. Limoni exhibition Il Giardino del Tempo at MACRO Testaccio until 17 Sept. See page 21 for details.

Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/07/2017

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Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

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BOOK REVIEW

Judith Works

JOURNEY INTO HIDDEN ETRURIA

An overlooked corner of northern Lazio is brought to life in a new book by Mary Jane Cryan

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enerations of travellers on their Grand Tour have passed through the region of northern Lazio known as Etruria, briefly contemplating the abundant remnants of Etruscan civilization and Renaissance marvels before moving on to Tuscany or Rome. The 1904 edition of Baedeker’s Central Italy has a few pages about Viterbo and the surrounding countryside. D. H. Lawrence mused on the tombs and complained about the food in Sketches of Etruscan Places, published posthumously in 1932; Kate Simon devoted a chapter to the area in Italy, the Places In Between, in 1970. But few narratives delve deeply into the complex layers of history that make Etruria a fascinating destination. Historian, lecturer and writer Mary Jane Cryan has taken a special interest in the region, bringing to life the forgotten people, palazzi, villas and gardens scattered throughout the towns and countryside. Her recent book, The Painted Palazzo/Il Palazzo Dipinto, complements her preceding collection of essays: Etruria – Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy. The latter book, filled with stories about Irish lords, exiled Stuarts, Americans romping in Renaissance fountains in the early 1900s,

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Vetralla is long associated with the Piatti family whose palazzo is a focal point of the town.

exiled Stuarts, and a world war two prison escape, ends with a description of the Palazzo Piatti in Vetralla and the extensive efforts to save it from ruin. The Painted Palazzo begins with a more detailed look at the palazzo and the Piatti family who owned the build-

ing before it fell into disrepair. The author then takes the reader on another excellent tour of lesser-known sites in the area. The illustrated book, written in both Italian and English, is ideal for those learning either language, and for tourists who are interested in knowing


BOOK REVIEW more about this small part of Italy, so close to Rome yet often ignored. Early photos of Vetralla show the town dominated by an enormous building consisting of 85 rooms on five levels fronting on the Via Cassia, the old Roman consular road. This is the Palazzo Piatti, purchased by the family in 1893. Its origins are unknown but probably mediaeval as it incorporates walls that enclosed the town during that period. The Piatti were engineers and builders from Piedmont where they had been a prominent family since 1560. The family construction firm played a large part in the development of railroads in Italy from the mid-19th to the early 20th centuries. They became wealthy property owners, purchasing palazzi in Piedmont, Liguria, Lazio and Rome, as well as more than 5,000 hectares of agricultural land around Viterbo and Vetralla. The family favoured décor popular in Liguria, using it at their villa in the town of Quittengo near Biella. The redecoration of the Palazzo Piatti replicated the style with interiors painted in floral designs, examples of which remain, along with scraps of other frescoes more evocative of Lazio with its cypress and umbrella pines. The exterior was a startling mix of trompe-l’œil and checkerboard, unfortunately now faded away. Part of the palazzo served as barracks during world war one. Later it became a home for one of the two heirs to the Piatti fortune when Flaminio married Olga, the daughter of the famous sculptor Pietro Canonica, who had a house and studio in Vetralla. The couple lived a life of luxury, wasting much of their fortune on gambling. By 1929, portions of the building had to be sold to pay their debts. Ten years later the remainder passed from the family hands and the Piatti family faded into obscurity. The building became a club for members of the Fascist party and their

The Piatti family also left its mark on the island of Bisentina in Lake Bolsena.

families and living quarters for homeless families during and after the war. Following this period, it was divided into apartments and sold to local farmers. Sections were completely abandoned. It became a safety hazard when rain seeped through the roof, dead pigeons rotted on the upper floor, tiles dangled from rotten gutters, chimneys cracked and building materials were removed illegally. The wheel of fortune turned again in 1993, when newcomers, including the author, began to purchase the apartments. Battling bureaucratic inertia and reluctance of former owners to improve the property, the newcomers, who appreciated the building’s history and its remaining frescoes, put their energies into restoration. Over time, the building has been stabilised and much of its past salvaged. In addition, the extensive terraced gardens have been rebuilt. Banana trees and oranges grow at the warmest upper level; persimmon, kiwi, medlar, umbrella pine and fruit trees flourish on the middle levels; hazelnut on the lowest and coolest terrace. A restored orangerie hosts performances

put on by the musical organisation Opera Extravaganza. The legacy of the Piatti family remains in other nearby locations. Flaminio commissioned the architect Marcello Piacentini, famed for his modernist buildings during the fascist era, to build a neo-classical villa near Vetralla in 1925. But Villa Carmine met the same fate as Palazzo Piatti when Flaminio sold it to his father-in-law, Canonica, to pay his debts. Canonica later sold it to the Carmelites who remain the owners, although the outbuildings now serve as the Pro Loco and senior citizens club while the grounds host the town park and sports facilities. A more romantic and durable memory of the Piatti family is the island of Bisentina in Lake Bolsena. The family held the rights to the island from 1899 to 1912, and used their talents and money to restore a crumbling monastery and established a botanic gardens full of exotic plants. The second half of The Painted Palazzo consists of other vignettes about recent discoveries and locations worth a visit – who wouldn’t want to see Easter Island sculptures* in the tiny hill town August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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BOOK REVIEW 1912, Sully sniffed: “He will do well to visit other towns which had hostile doings with Viterbo: …Vetralla where, though there is little of interest in the squalid-looking town, the visitor may walk over to the romantic valley of Norchia, and see the long series of lofty, temple-like Etruscan tombs carven on the face of the warm yellow cliffs.” Well, now we know he was wrong. If only he’d had this entertaining book in hand he’d have had a far better impression.

Vitorchiano is home to the world’s only Maoi statue outside Easter Island.

*MOAI DI VITORCHIANO

of Vitorchiano? Anyone looking for material for a novel would be interested in the discovery of several images of Giulia (la Bella) Farnese, whose “attachment” to Rodrigo Borgia (Pope Alexander IV) helped further brother Alessandro Farnese’s career as he ascended the career ladder to become Pope Paul III. All portraits of her were previously thought destroyed to hide a scandalous life, surely no worse than others in the family. Another Farnese woman whose image has recently come to light is that of Ortensia Farnese. After dispatching three husbands and being accused of poisoning her own daughter, she became known as the “Lucrezia Borgia of Parrano.” The two paintings in Vetralla show her as a black-veiled penitent. Light punishment for a murderer, and fodder for a novel indeed.

I was particularly interested in the ruins located at Ferento, mentioned in the book, the Etruscan/Roman city of Ferentium, as seen through the eyes of travellers from the 18th century onwards. It was inhabited until the Middle Ages when the good citizens of Viterbo reportedly destroyed it over the offense of a crucifix designed with Christ’s eyes open instead of shut. Now it’s a little-visited archaeological site hosting an amphitheatre and a few other semi-ruined buildings. The ancient Roman road running through the remains of the town is rutted with cart tracks. Did travellers pass by the Palazzo Piatti on their way to visit the ruins before moving on to Rome? One of these travellers, James Sully, recorded his impressions after he visited Ferento. In a book published in

The world’s only Maoi statue outside Easter Island is located in the mediaeval village of Vitorchiano, near Viterbo. The colossal sculpture was carved in 1990 by 11 indigenous craftspeople from Easter Island using traditional axes and sharp stones, as part of the Italian television documentary Alla ricerca dell’Arca (In search of the Ark). Vitorchiano was chosen for the unusual initiative because it was discovered to contain a similar volcanic rock used in the original Easter Island statues, whose origins remain shrouded in mystery. The sculpture weighs about 30 tons, is 10m high, and can be found on the road leading to Grotte S. Stefano just outside the centre of Vitorchiano.

THE PAINTED PALAZZO Both The Painted Palazzo and Etruria are published by Edizioni Archeoares in electronic format (€5.99) or paperback (€10). The paperback can also be ordered directly from the author’s website, www.elegantetruria. com, or found in various bookshops in Etruria. It is available in Rome at the Anglo-American Bookshop, Via delle Vite 102. Cryan’s other books are available from her website.

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TOP 10

BEACHES NEAR ROME For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer. S. MARINELLA The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers. S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place from 21-23 July. FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour. OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off

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S. Marinella

at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc. ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations. Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water. SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture. S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get

Sabaudia

off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.


TOP 10

OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privatelyowned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €30 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and a minimum of €10 for perfectly adequate but sometimes crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New Yorkstyle rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price. 1. ALDROVANDI PALACE Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Daily rate Mon-Fri €55, Sat/Sun €60, Mon-Fri weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandiresidence.it. €€€€ 2. BELLE ARTI Well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat-Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 weekday /15 weekend. Kids under 7 free. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€ 3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swim-

Hydromania

Radisson SAS Hotel

ming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €50, weekends €95, sun lounger and towel included half-price fees for children aged 6-11). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www. cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€ 4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. € 5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€ 6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.0019.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www. grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 10.00-22.00, weekends 09.00-20.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€ 9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 10.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€ 10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. € Piscina delle Rose

7. HYDROMANIA Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €22, kids €17. Half day rates €17/15. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€ August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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TOP 10

WATER SPORTS NEAR ROME Ready to make a splash this summer? Rome and its environs offer many aquatic activities, both above and below water, which will help you do just that. Here are a few suggestions. BOATERS Canoa Kayak Roma Assex (Via A. Poerio 85, tel. 0658320923) offers both canoeing and kayaking lessons and can also accommodate people with disabilities. Centro Nautico Turano (www.lagoturano.com) will put the wind in your sails. Located just over an hour from Rome near Rieti, the centre offers sailing, windsurfing, canoeing and skiing on Lago Turano. BOARDERS AND SKIIERS The Parco del Tevere Watersports Complex (Via Tiberina km 8,300) has two private, artificial lakes and topnotch watercraft for creating the perfect water skiing and wakeboarding conditions. Open all day, all year. To learn how to windsurf, stop by Naloo Surf at Marino di Palo (www.naloosurf.it). For kitesurfing head to Talamone Kitesurf Windsurf Center on Monte Argentario near Porto S. Stefano (www. twkc.it). There are also several shops for your surfing needs all-year-round, including Point Break in Fregene (www.pointbreakfregene.com), which teaches

Rafting at Marmore Falls

surfing, SUP and many other water sports for all ages and skill levels. Dna Boards at Via Massaciuccoli 77 (tel. 0686329540) can help you find windsurfing, kiting and surfing equipment to meet your needs. DIVERS There are a couple of PADI Five Star Dive Centres in Rome, including Diving Blue World at Via Borghesano Lucchese, tel. 339/2162633. Acquazzurra Diving (www.acquazzurra.it), a PADI Five Star instructor development dive centre located on Via Tuscolana, prides itself on taking divers to the best sites near Rome such as S. Marinella, the Ventotene and Ponza islands, Lake Capo d’Acqua, Secce di Tor Paterno, a marine protected area, and many other underwater hotspots.

ADVENTURERS If you don’t mind going a little out of Rome to get in the water, consider heading to Lake Bracciano or Lake Albano, where motorised boat traffic is prohibited, making them serene locations for swimming, sailing, windsurfing and paddle boating. RAFTING For those not afraid of getting wet, and maybe a little wild, Umbria’s Rafting Marmore Falls (www.raftingmarmore. com), less than an hour from Rome, is the place to go. The operation guides groups of six down the Nera River through fourth degree rapids. Still sound too tame? Try hydrospeeding, essentially aquatic tobogganing, for a two-hour thrill ride. But if you prefer a more relaxing experience, take the easy rafting tour, designed for people of all ages.

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ROME’S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS

FOR MORE DETAILS SEE WWW.MUSEIINCOMUNEROMA.IT AND WWW.BENICULTURALI.IT.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. PATRONS OF THE ARTS IN THE VATICAN MUSEUMS Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. STATE MUSEUMS BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. BORGHESE MUSEUM Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paint­ings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. CASTEL S. ANGELO MUSEUM Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

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CRYPTA BALBI Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. ETRUSCAN MUSEUM AT VILLA GIULIA Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. PALAZZO CORSINI Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

MUSEO NAZIONALE D’ARTE ORIENTALE Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

PALAZZO ALTEMPS Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo


TITOLO

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Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. PALAZZO BARBERINI Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and an­tiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. CITY MUSEUMS CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. GALLERIA COMUNALE D’ARTE MODERNA Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. MUSEO BARRACCO Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. MUSEO CANONICA Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). MUSEO DEI FORI IMPERIALI AND TRAJAN’S MARKETS Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. MUSEO NAPOLEONICO Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. MUSEO DI ROMA – PALAZZO BRASCHI Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS CASA DI GOETHE Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. DORIA PAMPHILJ GALLERY Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. GALLERIA COLONNA Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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ARCHITECTURE

Arianna Farina

ROME’S DECORATED HOUSES

Skilled artists embellished the façades of buildings in 15th- and 16th-century Rome but few survive today

T

here exists – or rather, there used to exist – an “open-air art gallery” in Rome, most of which has nowadays been lost and the rest of which eludes the visitor’s eye. It is a mute, sometimes mysterious art, hidden among the alleys far from the traditional tourist routes. But if you look up you can sometimes make out the fresco or graffito decorations which adorned the façades of Roman houses and buildings between the end of the 15th and the first half of the 16th century, following a fashion which in Italy started out in Venice, then became popular in Florence, and triumphed in Rome. Here, among the numerous examples of classical, mediaeval and Renaissance beauty, skilled workers became expert in this decorative field, giving the city its “characteristic aspect, gay and triumphal,” as art historian Umberto Gnoli wrote in the review Il Vasari in 1937.

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The foremost among these was Polidoro da Caravaggio, a pupil of Raffaello and the major exponent of this “fashion”, together with Maturino da Firenze, thanks to whom – as Vasari himself wrote in 1550 – “smiling Rome was enriched by their labours.” Various sources, from the first guidebooks on 17th-century Rome to the most modern studies, tell of more than 200 house-fronts decorated in techniques which developed over the years. It progressed from graffito work simulating diamond-pointed rustication to ever more elaborate compositions in fresco, portraying for the most part, mythological scenes or scenes from Roman history, so that “this rebirth in full flower intrudes, festive and pagan, into papal Rome,” as one guide put it. Even though it was a mainly northern practice, the origins of this explosion of decoration may be attributed not only to the presence of northern artists in Rome, but also to the rediscovery and

revival of traditions such as the habit of hanging tapestries or carpets from the windowsills to mark processions or other festivities. The reasons for adorning the outside of buildings with this rather than other techniques, however, can surely be attributed to more than a mere matter of taste: a perceptive choice, in that the façades appeared larger, and an aesthetic choice, given the power of the decorations to make even the most simple buildings look majestic. And there was also the motivation of prestige coupled with the reasonable cost of the execution of the work, giving a noble air to the house at a reduced expense. Sadly, of the 200 decorated façades recorded at the end of the 16th century, a mere 30 or so have survived. Fortunately there are bibliographic sources, principally Vasari, and iconographic sources to preserve the memories: sketches, copies, prints and etchings like those by Alberti, Bonasone, Saenre-


TITOLO

August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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ARCHITECTURE dam and Bartoli, or the 19th-century works by Enrico Maccari, Genesio Morandi and the Frenchman Paul Marie Letarouilly. But the chance to enjoy and admire this particular aspect of 16th-century Rome isn’t limited to visiting archives and libraries. Thanks to restoration work carried out in the mid-20th century, a few examples remain in situ. It’s possible to plan a walk to rediscover graffiti and frescoes which have been forgotten by art-history and guide

books, relegating to oblivion works by artists of the calibre of Jacopo Ripanda, Baldassarre Peruzzi, Polidoro da Caravaggio, Perin del Vaga, Raffaellino da Reggio, Federico Zuccari, Maturino da Firenze or Daniele da Volterra. Some splendid examples are hidden along the classical itineraries through the city centre, which also show the evolution of the techniques. Only a few steps from Piazza Navona, for example, in Via dell’Anima, we can look up at Tor Millina and its palazzo, whose decora-

tions – dated at 1491 and attributed to Perin del Vaga – are sadly lost for the most part, but which survive in the drawings by Giovenale. Continuing to no. 65, there are still traces of the inscriptions, friezes and crests on the house of the notary Sander. In Via della Fossa, behind Piazza del Fico, a decoration in diamond-pointed rustication still covers a large part of the façade of nos. 14-17, showing how this technique was used to simulate cladding in marble or other materials. Close

Remains of frescoes are still visible on the façade of 9 Via della Maschera D’Oro, near Piazza Navona.

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by lies Via della Maschera d’Oro with two of the best façades, an undeniable example of the development in technique and composition: a graffito decoration at no. 9, attributed to Baldassarre Peruzzi and portraying scenes from Roman history, and the well-known Palazzo Milesi, frescoed by Polidoro da Caravaggio in which we can still make out a frieze of the story of Niobe taken from Ovid’s Metamorphoses. Crossing Corso Vittorio Emanuele at Chiesa Nuova in a narrow alley at no. 31 we find a splendid decoration, perhaps by Benvenuto Cellini after whom the street was named. Here, although we find the classical diamond-pointed rustication above it and the frieze with putti and girali (swirling leaf designs), there is a medallion with war scenes – barely legible, but reproduced by Maccari in the 19th century – which gives a grandeur to this little building which would otherwise be totally anonymous. These are but a few examples of this alternative route through the streets of beauty in search of that grandiose but at times forgotten 16th-century Rome, and which still have something to reveal to the observant resident, student or tourist. And without forgetting Guy Debord’s valuable advice: “You should be alienated and look at everything as though it were for the first time. One way to achieve this is to walk with measured steps and your gaze turned slightly upwards, so as to bring architecture to the centre of your field of vision and leave the street level at the lower edge of your sight. You should perceive space as a single unit and let yourself be attracted by the detail.”

Tor Mellina, once decorated with frescoes attributed to Perin del Vaga, is located behind Piazza Navona.

SOME OF THE ARTISTS POLIDORO DA CARAVAGGIO, 1496-1543. A Mannerist painter and a pupil of Raffaello. MATURINO DA FIRENZE, 1490-1528. Born in Florence he worked mainly in Rome, often with Polidoro da Caravaggio. JACOPO RIPANDA, 1465-1516. Born in Bologna he was part of Pinturicchio’s circle and worked on the Borgia apartments in the Vatican. Interested in historical scenes he also executed frescoes in the Palazzo dei Conservatori on the Capitoline Hill and important drawings of the frieze on Trajan’s column. BALDASSARRE PERUZZI, 1481-1536. He was born in Siena and worked for both Bramante and Raffaello in Rome. His frescoes are also in Siena Cathedral. PERIN DEL VAGA, 1501-1547. One of Ghirlandaio’s most talented pupils. In Rome he became an assistant to Raffaello. One of his works in Rome is the Pietà in the church of S. Stefano del Cacco. RAFFAELLINO DA REGGIO, 1550-1578. A Mannerist painter from Emilia. His works in Rome are in the Oratorio del Gonfalone and Villa Farnese outside Rome at Caprarola.

Arianna Farina

FEDERICO ZUCCARI, 1540-1609. A Mannerist painter. Born near Urbino, he worked in Rome under his brother Taddeo. His works are also in Trinità dei Monti, S. Marcello al Corso, Oratorio del Gonfalone, Villa Farnese at Caprarola and Orvieto Cathedral.

A longer version of this article can be seen on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

DANIELE DA VOLTERRA, 1509-1566. A Mannerist painter who was a pupil of Perin del Vaga. In Rome he joined Michelangelo’s circle and based some of his works on sketches provided by the great artist. He is best known for painting the loincloths on the naked figures in Michelangelo’s Last Judgement, earning him the nickname of “Il Braghettone” (“the breeches-maker”). August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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Caracalla MMxviI OPERA

Carmen MUSIC BY

GEORGES BIZET TERME DI CARACALLA AUGUST 1, 4

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VALENTINA CARRASCO ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

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CARLO DONADIO DIRECTOR

PIER LUIGI PIZZI ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

Nabucco MUSIC BY

GIUSEPPE VERDI TERME DI CARACALLA AUGUST 2, 5, 9

CONDUCTOR

ROBERTO RIZZI BRIGNOLI DIRECTOR

FEDERICO GRAZZINI

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign. Illustrazioni di Gianluigi Toccafondo

OPERA

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PARTNER CARACALLA 2017

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EXHIBITIONS ANOTHER LOOK 6 July-16 Sept Daniele Tamagni’s photographs on the theme of youth fashion and counterculture in the urban centres of modernday Africa are shown in Rome for the first time at the Galleria del Cembalo. Under the sub-heading Sguardi e stili di un’Africa in movimento, the exhibition ranges from dandies in Brazzaville and heavy metal cowboys in Gaborone to young Johannesburg dancers and creative designers in Nairobi and Dakar. Palazzo Borghese, Largo della Fontanella di Borghese 19, tel. 0683796619, www.galleriadelcembalo.it. CONTATTO: SENTIRE LA PITTURA CON LE MANI 28 June-1 Oct A small, tactile exhibition at Palazzo Braschi encourages seeing and non-seeing visitors to experience four famous works of art whose images have been transformed into three-dimensional panels. The four paintings reproduced in tablet form are the Lamentation over the Dead Christ by Correggio Parma, Galleria Nazionale), the Penitent Magdalene by Caravaggio (from Rome’s Galleria Doria Pamphilj), the Prophet Isaiah by Raphael, and the Madonna of the pilgrims by Caravaggio (both from the church of S. Agostino in Rome). Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www. museodiroma.it. GALLERIA NAZIONALE 26 June-24 Sept The Galleria Nazionale presents two exhibitions running concurrently: / Uncinematic comprises a selection of films made between 2005 and 2014 by Greek artist George Drivas, currently representing Greece at the 57th Venice Biennale. Corpo a corpo | Body To Body concentrates on body and performance art from the 1960s and 1970s, featuring artists such as Claudio Abate, Marina Abramović & Ulay, Renate Bertlmann, Claire Fontaine, Chiara Fumai, Silvia Giambrone and Francesca Woodman. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com. HOLLYWOOD ICONS: PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN KOBAL FOUNDATION 24 June-17 Sept This exhibition of photographs from the John Kobal Foundation sheds light on the photographers whose images were essential in transforming Hollywood actors into stars. The show is a who’s-who of Hollywood royalty, ranging from silent

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screen legend Charlie Chaplin to the first stars of sound films including Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Clark Gable and Cary Grant, and ending with postwar cinema giants such as Marlon Brando, Paul Newman, Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren. The exhibition comprises around 160 images by more than 50 photographers. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www. palazzoesposizioni.it. ARAZZERIA PENNESE 23 June-3 Sept The tapestries on display include works by Giacomo Balla and Afro, alongside new creations by contemporary artists Alberto Di Fabio, Matteo Nasini, Marco Tirelli and Costas Varotsos. The show also features preparatory material relating to a tapestry, currently in progress, by Andrea Mastrovito, which will be presented at the end of the exhibition to coincide with a contemporary tapestry conference. The tapestries were woven in the Arazzeria Pennese, a well-known traditional workshop in a town in the Pescara province. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

Another Look: Sguardi e stili di un’Africa in movimento at Galleria del Cembalo. Lalhande the young by Daniele Tamagni.

STILL SHOWING FROM DUCHAMP TO CATTELAN 28 June-29 Oct For the second consecutive year the Palatine hill hosts an outdoor exhibition of contemporary art until the end of October. This convergence of ancient and contemporary unites 100 artists, from 25 countries, whose large-scale installations, paintings and photographs are exposed under two themes decided by

Contatto: Sentire le pitture con le mani exhibition at Palazzo Braschi. 3D version of Raphael’s Prophet Isaiah.

Hollywood Icons at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Audrey Hepburn by Bud Fraker for Sabrina Fair, 1954. Paramount Pictures © John Kobal Foundation.


curator Alberto Fiz: Portraits and Hands. The exhibition includes work by international artists such as Gilbert and George, Allan McCollum, Marina Abramovic, Barbara Kruger and Joseph Kosuth, alongside Italian big names Mario Schifano, Mauro Staccioli and Maurizio Cattelan. Forum Palatino, Via di S. Gregorio 30, www.electa.it/mostre/alt-arte-contemporanea-al-palatino. OSTKREUZ 24 June-17 Sept Retrospective telling the history of the photo agency Ostkreuz, founded in 1990 by photographers from East Germany in the immediate aftermath of reunification, and today the most celebrated photographic collective in Germany. There are more than 250 photographs by 22 photographers on display, dating from the fall of the Berlin Wall until the modern day. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it. GEHARD DEMETZ: INTROJECTION 23 June-10 Sept Italian artist Gehard Demetz is known for his skilfully-crafted wooden sculptures of morose adolescents and children. His mysterious works often have “missing” pieces, raising various interpretations such as lost innocence, predestination and memories buried in the child psyche. His latest works are inspired by sacred and profane themes, juxtaposing churches and religious icons alongside a juvenile Hitler and Mao. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. YONA FRIEDMAN: MOBILE ARCHITECTURE, PEOPLE’S ARCHITECTURE 23 June-29 Oct Exhibition of models, drawings and installations by Yona Friedman, the Hungarian-born French architect, urban planner and designer who was influential in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Friedman is best known for his theory of mobile architecture, a utopian concept which promoted the building of superstructures suspended over existing cities to avoid the need for extra land space. Central to his manifesto were three requirements: buildings should touch the ground over a minimum area, be capable of being dismantled and moved, and be alterable as required by the individual occupant. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. ZAHA HADID AND ITALY 23 June-28 Jan MAXXI hosts an exhibition dedicated to

Giancarlo Limoni exhibition at MACRO Testaccio. Giardino romano.

the Italian projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, including the recentlyopened Terminal Marittimo in Salerno, the Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones, the almost complete City Life project in Milan and the MAXXI building itself. The exhibition comprises plans and three-dimensional models designed by the Iraqi architect, who had an intensive and enduring relationship with Italy until her death in March last year. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. SALLY MANN: REMEMBERED LIGHT: CY TWOMBLY IN LEXINGTON 22 June–8 Sept American photographer Sally Mann documents the Lexington, Virginia studio of her friend and mentor, Cy Twombly, the Rome-based American artist who died in 2011. Mann’s poetic images, in both colour and black-and-white, were taken between 1999 and 2012. The photographs record the objects accumulated in Twombly’s studio, offering a glimpse into his imagination and artistic life. Mann is known for her intimate and disquieting images featuring family, landscapes and the nature of mortality. This exhibition comes to Twombly’s adopted home following presentations at Gagosian New York and Paris. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www. gagosian.com. GIANCARLO LIMONI: IL GIARDINO DEL TEMPO 21 June-17 Sept Exhibition featuring 25 large paintings by Giancarlo Limoni who belonged to the Nuova Scuola Romana, an art movement which brushed aside 1980s trends of minimalism and conceptualism in favour of a return to more traditional painting

Arazzeria Pennese exhibition at MACRO. Cascata by Matteo Nasini.

Ostkreuz exhibition at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Aus der Serie Jahrestage © Marc Beckmann / OSTKREUZ. August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www. museocarlobilotti.it.

Silvia Codignola’s exhibition Autobiografia della madre at Museo Carlo Bilotti. Lago del tempo.

Luigi Ontani exhibition at Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca. Serie AnamorPose.

methods. The works on display, created between 1980 and 2017, illustrate the artist’s diverse influences, from Turner to Monet. One of his works, Particolare Romano, featured on a cover of Wanted in Rome in July 2011. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www.museomacro.org. SILVIA CODIGNOLA: AUTOBIOGRAFIA DELLA MADRE 17 June-17 Sept Rome-based artist Silvia Codignola’s exhibition of 40 paintings, drawings and sculptures focuses on the relationship between mother and baby, examining the newborn’s journey into childhood. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale

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PIRANESI: LA FABBRICA DELL’UTOPIA 16 June-15 Oct Palazzo Braschi presents more than 200 prints by architect and engraver Giovan Battista Piranesi (1720-1778), known for his masterful understanding of perspective and the almost three-dimensional quality of his engravings. The exhibition features Piranesi’s celebrated Vedute di Roma series, including the archaeological heritage of the capital, where the Venetian artist moved in 1740. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. LA BELLEZZA RITROVATA 2 June-26 Nov Art works retrieved by the special unit of Italy’s carabinieri police tasked with the discovery and return of artefacts removed from public and private collections. The exhibition is divided into three sections: works recovered after theft; works saved from earthquake-hit areas of central Italy; and the cultural damage caused by wars. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. LUIGI ONTANI 17 May-22 Sept The prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca presents a retrospective of the work of Luigi Ontani, considered one of Italy’s most innovative contemporary artists. The exhibition comprises 60 works, ranging from large performance photographs of the early 1970s to his distinctive ceramic sculptures. Since the late 1960s Ontani has experimented with an array of media to explore historical, allegorical and mythological themes, and in 2011 his Lapsus Lupus featured on a Wanted in Rome cover. Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca, Piazza dell’Accademia di S. Luca 77, www.accademiasanluca.eu/it. SHAZIA SIKANDER 30 May-30 Sept Exhibition of mosaics and works on paper by Shazia Sikander whose work includes drawing, video and digital animation. Sikander’s diverse themes range from geopolitical changes and migration, to religion and human identity. Galleria Valentina Bonomo, Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. IL MERAVIGLIOSO MONDO Dl WAL 20 May-1 Oct Exhibition showcasing the “wonderful world” of Walter Guidobaldi, or Wal, and 50 of his fantasy works made of marble,

bronze and terracotta. Wal is known for his sculptures – both monumental and tiny – featuring mischievous cherubs and animals such as owls, cats, rabbits, piglets and penguins. Casina delle Civette, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www.museivillatorlonia.it PINTORICCHIO PITTORE DEI BORGIA 19 May-10 Sept The Capitoline Museums displays a beautiful fragment of a female face from Renaissance master Pintoricchio’s recently-rediscovered pictorial cycle in the Vatican’s Borgia apartments. Born in Perguia in 1454, Bernardino di Betto acquired the nickname Pintoricchio (“little painter”) thanks to his small stature. He died in Siena in 1513. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 06 39967800, www.museicapitolini. org. CONVERSATION PIECE 19 May-17 Sept The Galleria Nazionale presents a selection of works from the ”la Caixa” collection of contemporary art, which was founded in 1985 by Spain’s ”la Caixa” banking foundation and now comprises more than 900 pieces. The works on display are by a diverse group of international artists including Fernanda Fragateiro, Donald Judd, Agnes Martin, Juan Muñoz, Joan Hernández Pijuan, Doris Salcedo, Julião Sarmento, Thomas Schütte, Richard Serra, Jana Sterbak, Antoni Tàpies, Ignacio Uriarte, and Rachel Whiteread. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com. CROSS THE STREETS 7 May-1 Oct MACRO celebrates “40 years of Street Art and Writing” with a comprehensive exhibition featuring work by some of the most important Italian and international artists associated with the underground movement. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org. ARTFUTURA 29 April-10 Sept This digital art exhibition explores the common ground shared by the creative arts and science. The show combines disciplines as diverse as robotics, information visualisation, sculpting with ferrofluids and painting with light. On display are works by Paul Friedlander (UK), Esteban Diácono (Argentina), Can Buyukberber (USA), Sachiko Kodama (Japan), Chico MacMurtrie/Amorphic Robot Works (USA) and Universal Everything (UK). Ex-Dogana di Roma, Via dello Scalo di S. Lorenzo 10, www.artfuturaroma.it.




ALESSANDRO TWOMBLY 26 April-30 Sept Galleria Alessandra Bonomo presents the latest works by Alessandro Twombly who is known for his colourful, expressionistic representations of flora. The new creations by the artist, son of the late American abstractionist Cy Twombly, include a bronze sculpture and works on canvas and paper in oil and gouache depicting mirage-like images inspired by landscapes of his childhood. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com. STANZE D’ARTISTA: CAPOLAVORI DEL ‘900 ITALIANO 14 April-1 Oct Exhibition at Rome’s municipal art gallery focusing on Italian masterpieces from the first half of the 20th century. The 60 paintings, sculpture and prints on display are by 12 of Italy’s most important artists from the era: Mario Sironi, Arturo Martini, Ferruccio Ferrazzi, Giorgio de Chirico, Alberto Savinio, Carlo Carrà, Ardengo Soffici, Ottone Rosai, Massimo Campigli, Marino Marini, Fausto Pirandello and Scipione. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. PIERO GILARDI: NATURE FOREVER 13 April-15 Oct This exhibition by Piero Gilardi offers a critical examination of today’s society of consumption and technology, highlighting the complex relationship between man and nature. Centred around themes such as ecology, artistic research, and social and political commitment, the exhibition comprises significant works spanning the Turin artist’s 50-year career in art and activism. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it/en. BOTERO 5 May-27 Aug The Vittoriano presents Italy’s first major retrospective dedicated to the work of Fernando Botero, the Colombian artist famous for his so-called Boterismo style which depicts people in exaggerated sizes. The exhibition comprises some 50 works spanning the lengthy career of the 85-year-old artist, with paintings from 1958 up to 2016 on display. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano.com. VIAGGIO NEI FORI 13 April-12 Nov Two outdoor events with music, light projections and historical commentary will be held at the Forum of Caesar and

Cross the Streets exhibition at MACRO. Obey Middle East Mural by Shepard Fairey.

the Forum of Augustus every night until 12 November. The Viaggio nei Fori initiative attracted 140,000 spectators last year, according to the city. Details can be found on website, www.viaggioneifori.it. I FORI DOPI I FORI 30 March-10 Sept Illustrating the history of the Imperial Fora after the fall of the Roman empire, based on the findings of excavations carried out over the last 25 years. Mercati di Traiano, Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via Quattro Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. ALFREDO PIRRI 12 April-3 Sept I pesci non portano fucili, this exhibition is the first retrospective dedicated to Rome-based artist Alfredo Pirri whose work ranges from painting, sculpture, works on paper and environmental works. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www. museomacro.org. SPARTACUS: SLAVES AND MASTERS IN ROME 31 March-17 Sept The Ara Pacis uses 250 archaeological

finds to examine the complex history of slavery in ancient Rome, with particular focus on the slave revolt led by Spartacus against the Roman Republic between 73 and 71 BC. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. COLOSSEO: UN’ICONA 8 March-7 Jan 2018 This exhibition uses installations, models and artefacts to shed light on how the Colosseum was used in the centuries after the fall of the Roman empire. The show includes recently-discovered evidence of a 12th-century fortress, which was built into the arena’s ruins by the powerful Frangipane family but collapsed in the 1349 earthquake. The exhibition recounts how the amphitheatre was pillaged for stone, how it was used for stables, slaughterhouses and workshops during the mediaeval era, and how the monument was completely overgrown by the time the Grand Tourists arrived from northern Europe in the 18th century. Colosseum, www.coopculture.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

ArtFutura exhibition at Ex-Dogana. The Future is Now by Josan. August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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CLASSICAL The seasons of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome do not start again until Oct but there are other concerts and musical events throughout the summer, many of them organised by smaller associations. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia. it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). The new season starts on 5 Oct. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. Usually starts in Nov. RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it/ Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com. Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO FESTIVAL MUSICALE DELLE NAZIONI NOTTI ROMANE A TEATRO MARCELLO 1 July- end Sept The Tempietto always manages to fill the summer gap when other musical institutions go on holiday. The programme is even more varied this year with choral performances and jazz as well as the piano solos each evening in the Chiostro di Campitelli of Teatro di Marcello from the beginning of July to the end of September. For the programme of concerts see www.tempietto.it.

An evening at the Festival Musicale delle Nazione at Teatro di Marcello.

S. IVO ALLA SAPIENZA 13 July-12 Aug Once again this year there will be concerts in the beautiful setting of the courtyard of S. Ivo alla Sapienza, just across Corso Rinascimento from Piazza Navona. The programme, organised each year by the International Chamber Ensemble, includes music by Gershwin, Strauss, Lehar, Tchaikovsky, Morricone, Sinatra, the Beatles, as well as famous waltz and tango. For programme see www.icensemble.it. CHURCHES IN ROME It is worth checking several churches around the city for summer concerts. St Paul’s Within the Walls on Via Nazionale has a full programme of opera music. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona features baroque music and opera arias and the Chiesa Evangelica Valdese also features opera arias with dinner at a nearby restaurant.

The International Chamber Ensemble performs at S. Ivo alla Sapienza.

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Wanted in Rome | August 2017

FESTIVALS IN ROME ARTCITY 23 May-15 Sept Cultural festival comprising more than 100 events incorporating art, architecture, audiovisual, dance, literature, music and theatre, at museums and cultural sites in the Lazio region. Events take place throughout the summer at Palazzo Venezia, Castel S. Angelo and the Vittoriano in Rome, as well as the “Luoghi d’arte del Lazio” which includes the In Musica progamme, comprising nine concerts by top-class musicians at museums and archaeological sites in Rome and across the Lazio region, including Bagnaia, Caprarola, Ostia, Sperlonga, Tuscania, Veroli and Viterbo. The only August appointment for In Musica is a concert by Mala Punica | Pedro Memelsdorff at the Abbazia di Casamari in Veroli (17 Aug). For full programme see website, www.art-city.it. ¡FIESTA! 31 May-Sept The 23rd edition of the four-month festival that brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome. Each year Latin American dancers and singers take to the stage, providing over 100 hours of live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures. Located at Parco Rosati in the city’s EUR district, the popular summer festival is designed to raise awareness of Latin American culture and act as a bridge between Italians and the estimated 100,000 Latin Americans living in the Lazio region. For programme see website. Parco Rosati, Via delle Tre Fontane 24 (EUR), tel. 0687463296, www. fiesta.it.




FESTIVALS AROUND ITALY LA FOCE, TUSCANY

The Latin American music festival Fiesta! continues until September.

GAY VILLAGE 8 June-Sept Gay Village celebrates its 16th edition with a programme of shows, live dj sets, theatre, film screenings and special guests. The 15,000-sqm venue is divided into three separate music areas offering Pop, House and Hits, and there are stalls, bars and restaurants. For full details see website. Parco del Ninfeo, Via delle Tre Fontane, EUR, tel. 065809098, www.gayvillage.it. ISOLA DEL CINEMA 17 June-3 Sept Now in its 23rd year, this quality cinema event lights up the Isola Tiberina in the middle of the river Tiber each evening over the summer. Under the title Roma città creative, the 2017 edition of this multi-faceted festival includes 80 nights of screenings, encounters and discussions with important figures from the world of film. Its programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries, and major international productions, including films screened in their original language versions. Tiber Island, tel. 0658333113, www.isoladelcinema. com. EFFETTO NOTTE 2 21 June-6 Sept The second edition of the summer festival at Rome’s Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese is once again both outdoor and free. The films of the Effetto Notte 2 programme comprise Italian and international films screened under six categories: Semplicemente Steno; British Pride; L’Italia di Paolo Virzì; In mare aperto; Buon Compleanno Lucky Red; and Roma: una notte all’opera. In the case of rain the films will be shown in the cinema’s Sala Deluxe. Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 0642016224, www.casadelcinema.it.

PREVIEW OF ROME FILM FEST Organisers of the Rome Film Fest have announced the “first sneak previews” of the 12th edition of the festival, scheduled between 26 October and 5 November at the capital’s Auditorium Parco della Musica. The American filmmaker David Lynch, whose career ranges from Mulholland Drive to Twin Peaks, will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award and meet the audience. Other leading cinema figures taking part in the Close Encounters section include Shakespearean actor Ian McKellen – known to many as Gandalf in the Lord of the Rings saga; Canadian director Xavier Dolan; cult writer Chuck Palahniuk; and the celebrated British actress Vanessa Redgrave whose 50-year career on the stage and screen includes Blowup, Julia, and Driving Miss Daisy. The first films to be announced for the 2017 Rome Film Fest are Logan Lucky by Steve Soderbergh and NYsferatu by Andrea Mastrovito, and the programme also features a retrospective on The Italian School, the restoration of three Italian classic films, a contemporary art installation and a conference on international film criticism. For details see website, www. romacinemafest.it.

INCONTRI IN TERRA SIENA 29 July-5 Aug Once again this short but high standard musical festival is held at the home of the Origo family in memory of Antonio and Iris under the guidance of the artistic director Alessio Bax. It is difficult to know which concert to select but an obvious choice would be the two evenings with violinist Joshua Bell – the Brahms Gala on 3 Aug and the chamber music concert on 4 Aug. There are also guided visits of the house and gardens and the surrounding countryside as well as aperitivi and evening buffets either in the gardens or at local restaurants. For the full programme see www.itslafoce.org.

MACERATA STERISFERIO 21 July-9 Aug The programme includes two Puccini operas,Turandot (4 and 13 Aug) and Madame Butterfly (6 and 12 Aug) as well as Verdi’s Aida (5, 11, 14 Aug), a favourite of all summer festivals. But the real surprise this year is a completely new opera, Shi (2 and 9 Aug), by Italian composer, Carlo Boccadoro, commissioned especially for the festival. It is inspired by the life of explorer and Jesuit Matteo Ricci and is for two baritones, two pianos and three percussion instruments. www.sferisterio.it.

MARTINA FRANCA FESTIVAL DELLA VALLE D’ITRIA 14 July-4 Aug The belcanto festival not far from Alberobello in Puglia is dedicated this year to Rodolfo Celleti to mark the centenary of his birth. Italian musicologist, music critic and expert of belcanto Celletti was the artistic director of the festival from 19801993. The programme covers over four centuries of music, from Monteverdi to Puccini, including Vivaldi, Piccinni, Meyerbeer and Puccini. The works include Orlando Furioso by Vivaldi, Other Love Songs by Monteverdi, Gianni Schicchi by Puccini and Margherita D’Anjou by Meyerbeer. For full details see www.festivaldellavalleditri.it.

MILAN AND TURIN American filmmaker David Lynch will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award at the 12th Rome Film Fest later this year.

MITO SETTEMBRE MUSICALE 3-21 Sept This year’s theme of the classical music festival, which is held in both Milan and August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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DANCE

The Puccini Festival is in its 63rd year.

MILAN

Turin, is Nature, itself a classical theme. There will be 140 concerts in both cities in a combination of traditional venues and off-beat locations, which will host free concerts every evening. Following on from last year there will also be a short introduction for every concert to help those who know nothing about the work. There is the Open Singing event in both cities, which attracts thousands of people to both Piazza del Duomo in Milan and Piazza S. Carlo in Turin. The spectators are given the music scores so that they can sing along too. Naturally enough there will also be performances of Beethoven’s eternally popular 9th symphony. At weekends there will be a special emphasis on children, a festival within a festival. For details see website www.mitosettembremusica.it.

RAVENNA RAVENNA FESTIVAL AUTUMN TRILOGY 17-23 Nov The Ravenna festival, at its height from May-July, reserves a short operatic codicil for November. This year the trilogy is Cavalleria Rusticana by Mascagni (17, 20 Nov), Pagliacci (18, 22 Nov) and Tosca (19, 23 Nov) by Puccini. The three Italian operas marked the end of the old operatic traditions of the 19th century and herald in the new 20th century modernity, in keeping with this year’s theme of “The Noise of Time”. For more details see www. ravennafestival.org.

RAVELLO RAVELLO FESTIVAL 1 July- 30 Aug The Ravello festival continues into the first half of Aug, opening with the traditional dawn concert on 4 Aug with the Orchestra Filarmonica G Verdi. This is followed by several other symphony concerts on 19, 25, 26 and 30 Aug. The Sandro Chia exhibition at Villa Rufolo is set for Sept. For full programme see www.ravellofestival.com.

TORRE DEL LAGO PUCCINI OPERA FESTIVAL 14 July-19 Aug There are five operas this year at the Puccini festival which is hosted in the grounds of the house where he once lived. Turandot (4 and 12 Aug); La Rondine (15 July-5 Aug); La Boheme (11 Aug); Tosca (10 and 19 Aug); Madame Butterfly (18 Aug). There is also the world premiere of a a new contemporary opera Jeanne d’ Arco by Giuliana Spalletti on 9 Aug, as well as other concerts and performances. For full details see website www.festival puccini.it.

VERONA FONDAZIONE ARENA 27 June-27 August Funding is one of the major problems for the Arena festival and almost the first decision of its new president, Giuliano Polo, was to axe its resident ballet company in February this year. However the foundation is confident of its future as it has already published next year’s programme online. The confidence may be well placed as Polo has the steady hand of the sovrintendente of Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera, Carlo Fuortes, behind him, as well as his long administrative experience at Rome’s S. Cecilia. There are no real surprises in the 2017 repertoire, with the usual favourites of Nabucco (until 26 Aug), Aida in the traditional 1913 version (until 27 Aug), Madame Butterfly (until 19 Aug),Tosca (until 25 Aug). Among the extra attractions is Beethoven’s 9th symphony on the Ferragosto holiday on 15 Aug. The new production this year is Nabucco, a first for the French director Arnaud Bernard, who already has another three new productions to his name this year; Tosca in Prague, I Vespri Siciliani in St Petersburg and Simon Boccanegra in Lausanne. Most performances of Nabucco will be conducted by Daniel Oren. Madame Butterfly is the much-loved Zeffirelli version.

TEATRO ALLA SCALA ONEGIN 23 Sept- 18 Oct John Cranko’s Onegin is the first ballet after the summer break, with the Teatro alla Scala ballet company. Roberto Bolle dances the part of Onegin on 23, 26, 28 Sept and 12 and 18 Oct so if you have missed him during his summer performances at numerous festivals up and down Italy here is a chance to see him on his home stage with guest star Marianela Nunez, principal star of the Royal Ballet. The score, based on Tchaikovsky’s music but not on his opera Eugene Onegin is orchestrated by Kurt-Heinz Stolze. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROVERETO ORIENTE OCCIDENTE 2017 30 Aug-10 Sept Quando corpi incontrano modi e culturi is the theme of this year’s contemporary dance and dance theatre festival in the northern Italian city of Rovereto. Each year the programme brings together some of the best new work from both western and eastern dance companies and choreographers. Many of the performances are in the streets and squares as one of the main concepts behind this festival, which has now been going for 37 years, is that the town becomes the stage on which the events are set. In this way the festival becomes all-inclusive, (inclusion is one of its themes) not only in its subject matter but also in the way it is interpreted. In one of the world premieres at the festival Michela Lucente’s Bad Lambs (31 Aug), performed by her company Balletto Civile, explores how Oriente Occidente dance festival returns to Rovereto.

August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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people accept and transform loss, in this case physical loss. The programme also includes tango (2-3 Sept), Brazilian dance (6 Sept) and performances and workshops by the Taiwan company U Theatre (8-10 Sept). There are three dance performances by Angelin Preljocaj (7-9 Sept), and the new work in progress by Italy’s dancer-choreographer Irene Russolillo’s The Wave, together with The Speech, which premiered at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica in the 2016 Equilibium dance festival (6 Sept). For more details see www.orienteoccidente.it.

ROME ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 20 Sept-2 Dec This year the dance section of this avantgarde multi-disciplinary autumn festival starts with three big names in the world of dance; Sasha Waltz and Guests with Kreatur at Teatro Argentina (20-23 Sept); Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui with Fractus V at Auditorium Conciliazione (26-27 Sept); Dada Masilo with Giselle at Teatro Olimpico (28 Sept-1 Oct). See details on the festival website www.romaeuropa.net. TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SOIREE ROLAND PETIT 8-14 Sept Choreographies by Roland Petit, Carmen, L’Arlesienne, Le Jeune Homme et la Mort. Rebecca Bianchi, star of the Teatro Dell’Opera ballet will dance in Carmen on 11 and 12 Sept. Eleonora Abbagnato, head of the theatre’s ballet, and Stephane Bullion from the Paris Opera Ballet, dance in Le Jeune Homme. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it. GISELLE 20-24 Sept The well-known choreography is by Patricia Ruanne, with principal dancers,

soloists and ballet corps of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

THEATRE SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 22 June-15 Oct This summer’s Shakespearean programme at Rome’s Silvano Toti Globe Theatre runs for four months and includes an English-language performance. The festival is once again under the artistic direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti and the programme continues in August with Enrico V, adapted and directed by Daniele Pecci, with a very young cast, until 6 Aug. This is followed by Sogno di una Notte di Mezza Estate directed by Riccardo Cavallo (9-20 Aug), Il Mercante di Venezia directed by Loredana Scaramella (24 Aug-10 Sept), and Macbeth directed by Daniele Salvo (15 Sept-1 Oct). The festival ends on a high-note for Rome’s English speakers: the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company returns for the third year with an English-language co-production of Much Ado About Nothing, directed by Chris Pickles (5-15 Oct). In addition there are several poetic and musical projects including Sonetti D’Amore; Playing Shakespeare and Il Canto di Shakespeare. Rome’s Globe Theatre, located in the heart of Villa Borghese, is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. Last year the festival attracted some 65,000 spectators, and all shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production. For full details see website, www.globetheatreroma. com. Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, tel. 060608.

Sogno di una Notte di Mezza Estate at the Globe Theatre from 9-20 Aug.

Processi 144 exhibition at the Spanish Academy in Rome. Reinterpreta Roma by Santiago Ydañez.

ACADEMIES CASA DI GOETHE 22 March-24 Sept Punti di Vista (Points of View) is an exhibition by German photographer Kerstin Schomburg who, during the summer of 2015, followed in the footsteps of important landscape artist and friend of Goethe, Jakob Philipp Hackert (17371807). Schomburg uses her camera to provide a modern version of Hackert’s celebrated scenes of Rome, including St Peter’s and the Baths of Caracalla, as well as the Roman hinterland such as the waterfalls of Tivoli, Via Appia Antica, and Villa Conti in Frascati. The exhibition also includes some original Hackert works. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 4 May-12 Oct The Japanese Cultural Institute, in collaboration with its neighbour the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, presents Boom Beat Bubble, an exhibition of Japanese prints from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. There are 54 works by 24 artists in the exhibition whose title refers to the economic “Boom” of the 1960s, followed by the “Beat” era which gained momentum later that decade, and Japan’s speculative economic “Bubble” of the 1980s. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. POLISH INSTITUTE 8 June-30 Sept The Polish Institute of Rome presents Nella città di Kazimierz Dolny, an exhibition by Jan Michalak, as part of the 15th edition of its annual Corso Polonia August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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cultural festival. Through oil paintings, sculptures and videos, Michalak captures the spirit of the small town in central Poland which has attracted artists, writers and poets since the end of the 18th century. Istituto Polacco di Roma, Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723, www.istitutopolacco.it.

ern performance was in Vienna in 1987 and it was staged at the Rossini festival in 2006. The festival ends with Rossini’s Stabat Mater (22 Aug) which in recent years has become the traditional final act of the festival. See Opera Notes below.

SPANISH ACADEMY IN ROME 22 June-1 Sept The 144th anniversary of the Real Academia de España en Roma is celebrated with an exhibition by the academy’s 24 current resident artists and researchers. Entitled Processi 144 the exhibition highlights the academy’s 2016-2017 projects which range from painting and photography to cinema and design. The exhibition can be visited Tues-Sun, from 10.00-18.00. Real Academia de España en Roma, Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3 (Gianicolo), www.accademiaspagna.org.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA SUMMER SEASON BATHS OF CARACALLA 13 July-9 Aug There are three operas in the Teatro dell’Opera summer season at the Baths of Caracalla for a total of 23 evenings, seven more than last year. Bizet’s Carmen (28 June-4 Aug) is this year’s new production conducted by Jesús López-Cobos and Jordi Bernacer with the up-and coming Argentinian director Valentina Carrasco. Carmen is a new venture for Carrasco, who collaborates with the La Fura dels Baus in Barcelona. It is followed by Puc-

OPERA MILAN HANSEL AND GRETEL HUMBERDINCK 2-24 Sept In the first production after the summer break it has now become the custom for the students of La Scala Academy to stage an opera under the guidance of a wellknown conductor and director. This year the opera is Engelbert Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel conducted by Marc Albrecht, chief conductor of the Dutch National Opera, and directed by Sven-Eric Bechtolf artistic director of the Salzberg festival. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

PESARO ROSSINI OPERA FESTIVAL 10-22 Aug One of the most highly respected opera festivals in Italy has selected three Rossini works this year, Le siege de Corinthe (10-19 Aug), La Pietra del Paragone (11-20 Aug) and Torvaldo e Dorliska (12-21 Aug). All three have been performed only once in the last 20 years. La siege was premiered in Paris in 1826 and was Rossini’s first opera in French. La Pietra del Paragone was first performed at La Scala in 1812. It was Rossini’s first commission for a major opera house and was an instant success but it was not staged in the United States until 1953 or the United Kingdom until the 1963.Torvaldo e Dorliska was premiered in Rome in 1815 and then off and on in Italy for the next 25 years but hardly ever in the rest of Europe. Its most recent mod-

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ROME

cini’s Tosca (8 July-8 Aug) in the well-tried Pier Luigi Pizzi production, conducted by Donato Renzetti. Verdi’s Nabucco, conducted by Roberto Rizzi Brignoli and directed by Federico Grazzini runs from 25 July-9 Aug. Terme di Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla.

Le Siege de Corinthe, performed in Genoa in the 1990s, will be the first opera at the Rossini Opera Festival this year.

OPERA NOTES

Il Rossini Opera Festival di Pesaro (10-22 agosto) giunto alla sua 38a edizione mette in cartellone tre titoli, che aveva già proposto ma per una volta soltanto negli ultimi vent’anni. Apre Le siège de Corinthe (10-19 agosto) rifacimento del 1826 per le scene parigine e in “formato” grand-opéra di Maometto II, dato a Napoli nel 1820. Molte le differenze soprattutto musicali. La più evidente riguarda il canto, che da esuberante e ricco di agilità diventa più declamato e lineare, e anche il rivale in amore che viene affidato al tenore in luogo dell’originario contralto. La regia con le scene e i costumi saranno di Carlus Padrissa e Lita Cabellutle (del noto gruppo catalano La Fura dels Baus), mentre la direzione spetterà a Roberto Abbado. Il triangolo di innamorati protagonista sarà interpretato da Nino Machaidze (lei), Luca Pisaroni (lui) e Sergey Romanovsky (l’altro). La prima e ultima volta che Le siége di Corinthe fu dato al ROF è stato nel 2000. Il secondo titolo in programma La pietra del paragone (1120 agosto) apparve al ROF invece nel 2002, con Pier Luigi Pizzi che firmava la regia, le scene e i costumi. Adesso vi ritorna con quello stesso allestimento ma “riveduto e corretto”. Daniele Rustioni dirigerà un cast di giovani cantanti, tra i quali ci sono almeno due nomi già noti e affermati: Maxim Mironov e Paolo Bordogna. Con La pietra del paragone Rossini debuttava nel 1812 alla Scala di Milano. Il successo fu inimmaginabile (all’ultima replica si bissarono ben sette “pezzi”) grazie anche alla bravura dei due protagonisti: Marietta Marcolini e Filippo Galli, che replicarono il trionfo otto mesi dopo a Venezia con L’italiana in Algeri. La terza opera in programma è Torvaldo e Dorliska (12-21 agosto). Torna con un allestimento di Mario Martone del 2006 molto apprezzato e applaudito, completamente rinnovato però nella parte musicale: sul podio il promettente Francesco Lanzillotta e come interpreti principali quattro cantanti conosciuti e amati dal pubblico del ROF: Salome Jicia e Dmitry Korchak (nei panni dei due innamorati del titolo), Nicola Alaimo e Carlo Lepore. Un paio di anni dopo La pietra del paragone e L’italiana in Algeri Filippo Galli tornava a cantare per Rossini, il quale conscio della bravura del suo basso preferito “inventò” una bella scena di pazzia, ma molto difficile da cantare. Per Torvaldo e Dorliska Rossini tornò anche alla “abituale” pratica di riutilizzare musiche già scritte in precedenza per Tancredi, Il barbiere di Siviglia, La Cenerentola e Adelaide di Borgogna. Unica eccezione l’aria di follia “Cento larve già intorno mi stanno” composta per Galli, che finirà in Otello un anno più tardi. Torvaldo e Dorliska apriva la Stagione di Carnevale del Teatro Valle di Roma il 26 dicembre 1815. Dei tre allestimenti in cartellone sono previste quattro recite ciascuno. Come ormai accade da diverse stagioni, chiude la XXXVIII edizione del ROF di Pesaro Stabat Mater (22 agosto), capolavoro di Rossini e della musica sacra di tutti i tempi. Sarà diretto da Daniele Rustioni e nelle parti solistiche vedrà impegnati il soprano Salome Jicia, il mezzosoprano Enkelejda Shkoza, il tenore Dmitry Korchak e il basso Erwin Schrott. Paolo Di Nicola



ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES 1/9 UNOSUNOVE 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. ARCHITETTURA ARTE MODERNA Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. ASSOCIAZIONE CULTURALE VALENTINA MONCADA Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. DOROTHY CIRCUS GALLERY Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. EX ELETTROFONICA This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. FEDERICA SCHIAVO GALLERY Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. FONDAZIONE GIULIANI PER L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. FONDAZIONE PASTIFICO CERERE This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

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Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

GALLERIA FRAMMENTI D’ARTE Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

FONDAZIONE VOLUME! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

FRANZ PALUDETTO Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. FRUTTA This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. GAGOSIAN GALLERY The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

GALLERIA MARIE-LAURE FLEISCH This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. GALLERIA DELLA TARTARUGA Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. GALLERIA IL SEGNO Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. GIACOMO GUIDI ARTE CONTEMPORANEA This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.


MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Monitor

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

IL PONTE CONTEMPORANEA Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. LA NUOVA PESA Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC MAJA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. MAGAZZINO D’ARTE MODERNA Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. MONITOR This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org. MONSERRATO ARTE ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. NOMAS FOUNDATION Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

OPERATIVA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com. PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com. RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. SALA 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. S.T. FOTO LIBRERIA GALLERIA Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. THE GALLERY APART This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TRALEVOLTE This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. VALENTINA BONOMO Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. WUNDERKAMMERN This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net. Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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LOOK FOR MORE CLASSIFIED ADS ON WWW.WANTEDINROME.COM

CLASSIFIED

COLUMNS ACCOMMODATION VACANT IN TOWN STYLISH APARTMENT NEAR TERMINI. 1250 sqm apartment in Via Marghera (Piazza Indipendenza) completely renovated and fully furnished. Air conditioning, ADSL. Livingroom, bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, big cupboards in the corridor. Could be eventually shared between 2 people. Located at the same distance from metro A (Termini) and metro B (castro Pretorio). Contact marie.romiti@ gmail.com.

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds are no longer accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

TRASTEVERE WITH GARDEN AND FIREPLACE. 180 sqm and 80 sqm garden, high ceilings, fireplace, large living room, furnished, AC, WIFI. Contact sinnesinne@hotmail.com. COSY APARTMENT PIAZZA EPIRO - S. GIOVANNI. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished, renovated, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s. condo+garden. Near FAO, 12mins walk from Colosseum. Contact airleas. rome@gmail.com. PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. SPAGNA 60 sqm. Living room, double-bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, view, refurbished, furnished For rent: Company. Temporary. Studio-home. Contact mv.miceli@gmail. com. GIANICOLO ROOM. Available 2 nice quiet rooms (one immediately and one from august). The apartment is inside a green private park, 10 min by foot to Trastevere, 2 min by foot to Gianicolo view. The apartment is still occupied by 1 other girl so she would prefer another girl. Well connected (Quattro Venti station) all included fully furnished. €520 per month. giulio_piccinini@ hotmail.com. Tel. 348 7740536.

MANZONI AREA. Furnished studio: For single person €480 monthly minimum 6 months. Email: dellascala4@gmail.com.

ACCOMMODATION VACANT OUT OF TOWN IN VILLA OVERLOOKING LAKE BRACCIANO. Fabulous views, flat w/ big living-dining room, 1 bedroom, full bath, kitchenette, terraces, parking, huge garden, Trevignano Romano, available after 8 Aug, tel. 340 / 616 5748.

HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION APARTMENT NEAR SIENA (TUSCANY). 80 sqm apartment in Sarteano (Siena) in residential area on the hill (600m) in proximity toll-gate Chiusi/Chianciano of Highway A1, near Siena and Florence. Description : 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 dining room, kitchen + individual garage with individual washing machine. Apartment is total furnished. The price for July 2017 and September 2017 is €450 a week. Contact rincettielisabetta@yahoo.it.

JOBS VACANT NANNY ENGLISH SPEAKING. Italian family downtown Rome seeks nanny for a 6-year-old kid, 3 hrs/day 16.00-19.00 Monday/ Friday, good English, driving licence, light housework, minimum 1 year. Contact angeladimaria@yahoo.com. PART-TIME GYM AND PART-TIME MATHS TEACHERS NEEDED. Istituto Marymount on Via Nomentana is looking for a part-time gym teacher and a parttime math teacher for the new high school opening in September. Qualified applicants are asked to send CV via email. sgrant@marymount.it. BILINGUALK SCHOOL IS SEEKING ENGLISH TEACHER. OIS is looking for part-time and full-time teachers for the new academic school year. All

WANTED IN ROME DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT OF THE ADVERTISEMENTS IT PUBLISHES. CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza

The Wanted in Rome office will be closed to the public from 2-23 August.

27 Aug 24 Sept

Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

Office hours: Mon – Fri 10.00 – 16.00. Orari ufficio: lun – ven 10.00 – 16.00.

PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione 6 Sept 4 Oct

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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teachers need to be mother tongue and have a B.ED, PGCE or equivalent teaching degree. Contact info@ ostiainternationalschool.it. ENGLISH TEACHER WANTED. Seeking qualified English mother-tongue teacher to tutor trilingual 11-year-old boy twice a week. Contact ritacristofari@gmail.com. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. Full time English Language Teachers for our schools in Rome. Candidates must be native speakers and have: a degree, teaching experience, relevant teaching certification, p.iva. Positions starting immediately. Contact info@englishscool.it. COMMUNICATIONS AND DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT (PART-TIME). The ideal candidate will be bilingual (spoken, written and reading) in English and Italian, hold a Bachelor’s Degree (Minimum Requirement) and have 2-5 years experience in communications, marketing or fundraising. For a full description of this position, please visit our website under employment , www.aosr. org. Interested candidates should send an application no later than 1 September 2017. Contact mcallan@aosr.org. TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team. We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours. We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese. Potential for great money. You’ll be working in an international environment and in a friendly atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Contact walczakmagda@gmail.com. HOW TO LIVE & WORK SUCCESSFULLY IN ITALY! Coming in October 2017. For details, please visit http://damienofarrell. com/events/ or tel. 339 / 3332547. ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@ thelanguagegrid.com. PART-TIME AND FULL-TIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Adacher Kinderheim is seeking experienced English mothertongue or bilingual teachers for positions in nursery and kindergarten, full-time and part-time (working days Monday to Friday), starting from September. Please send your CV to liliana_vialesaffi26@ libero.it.

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Wanted in Rome | August 2017

INTERNATIONAL B2B MARKETING & SALES SUPPORT. You can spend your summer teaching, babysitting, or in travel sector. Or, you can come to our offices, learn, train, earn and have fun working with some of the most international hightech companies in the world; Here Maps, VMware, trivago, and others! Seeking native English, German, Swedish, Czech, French, and others! Support our Clients Sales and marketing teams with prospecting, database enriching and lead qualification. Be part of a team with training and management. Flexible hours. Competitive wages. Send your CV to jobs@3d2b.com. Must have work or student visa for Italy. SOCIAL MEDIA CONSULTANTS. Experienced bloggers, experts in Photoshop & InDesign, & Website Designer/Developer wanted for freelance projects. Send résumé to damien@damienofarrell.com. SECRETARY POSITION. Secretary for an International school. The ideal candidate must be bilingual (English / Italian) with strong organizational, communication and interpersonal skills; able to work well under pressure and use technology efficiently and effectively with 3-5 years of office experience in related position. Italian/EU citizen or valid permit of stay required. Please email detailed CV to info@aosr.org. PROGRAM COORDINATOR, LUC JOHN FELICE ROME CENTER. The John Felice Rome Center (JFRC) of Loyola University Chicago is hiring a Program Coordinator for its first-year program, Rome Start. This part-time opportunity will begin on 1 August 2017. Since 2011 the JFRC is the home of the Rome Start program: first-year students begin their studies at Loyola University Chicago at the JFRC. The Rome Start Program Coordinator will be an informed, approachable individual, who possesses comprehensive knowledge of both the JFRC and Loyola University Chicago; provide clear leadership, rooted in Jesuit

values; represent this unique program both inward and outward. A Bachelor’s Degree is required; Master’s preferred; Proper status to legally work in Italy; Experience in a College or University setting. For further information, and for a full job description, please write to: JFRCRomeStart@gmail.com. FLUENT ENGLISH SPEAKERS/ BILINGUAL ITALIANENGLISH. Language School in Ostia looking for fluent English speakers/ bilingual Italian-English to teach Young Learners and Very Young Learners. CELTA - CELTyl - TEFL preferred but not required. Send CV to info@playwithgaby.it, https:// www.facebook.com/playwithgaby/. RELOCATION LOCAL COUNSELOR. Principal Relocation Company seeks freelance local counselors to accompany corporate clients to public offices, view properties, etc. in Rome. Own transport is necessary. CV to careers@principalrelocation.com ref: LC-RM. PART-TIME AND FULL-TIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Adacher Kinderheim is seeking experienced English mother-tongue or bilingual teachers for positions in nursery and kindergarten, full-time and parttime (working days Monday to Friday), starting from September. Please send your CV to liliana_vialesaffi26@libero.it.




LESSONS ITALIAN LESSONS OR CONVERSATION. Qualified and experienced teacher for Italian lessons and conversations (one to one, group, skype). Emma. livingitalialanguage@gmail.com, www.livingitalianlanguage.com.

0/19:00-22:00 Sab

Lun-Ven 12:30-14:3

19:00-22:00

Korean BBQ Nel cuore di Roma

POETRY THE LAW IS EQUAL FOR ALL. The mayor Virginia Raggi to improve public transport wants cable railway. Guida lei? sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

PROPERTY FOR SALE OUT OF TOWN BI-LEVEL VILLA FOR SALE NEAR LAKE BRACCIANO. Beautiful bi-level villa for sale with in-ground round pool, wraparound porch, 4 car covered parking area, and panoramic view of Lake Bracciano. Each floor is a full apartment with kitchen, 3 bathrooms, large living room with fireplace and 3 bedrooms. Solar panels and rain collection cistern in addition to plumbing/electric. Contact h.love@mac. com.

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES ESE SHORT COURSE MUSIC MANAGEMENT_INTAKE SEPT 2017. The Professional Programme in Music Management at the European School of Economics has been developed to meet the needs of students who wish to pursue a business and management career in the music industry. A series of lectures, seminars and workshops with both regular and visiting industry specialists equips candidates with essential knowledge and skills needed to excel within each stage of the music management process. The course covers such topics as contract law, intellectual copyright, artist management and the recording industry. Practical, theoretical and strategic expertise will be provided within a challenging environment in order for students to succeed within this fast changing field. After successful completion of the programme, students will be prepared for employment opportunities as: artist manager, tour manager, booking agent, talent agent, entertainment attorney, business manager, music business consultant, record company executive, artist and repertoire representative, artist and repertoire administrator, music publisher, label

www.galbiroma.it Via Cremera 21, 00198 Roma Tel. +39 06 8842132 | info@galbiroma.it

/galbiroma

@galbiroma

manager, music supervisor, concert promoter, radio promoter, organization of music events, festivals, music awards, among many others. Internship Programme: Upon successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career objectives. An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will determine their eligibility for a placement. Intake Dates: September 2017 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional); 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday). Language of Instruction: English. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it; admission.rome@ uniese.it tel. (+39) 0648906653 www. uniese.it www.europeanschoolofeconomics.com. ESE SHORT COURSE FILM BUSINESS_ INTAKE SEPT 2017. With all its lights and shadows, the film industry remains one of the strongest sectors worldwide, and it is arguably the most influential. In terms of raw figures, the film industry is one of the biggest sources of importation income for the US, and film studies are offered in hundreds of colleges and universities. This course aims at three primary goals and has three different levels of utility: *It will improve your capacity to identify and face challenges,

establish priorities, find solutions, organise processes, manage personal relationships and, moreover, manage your own creative potential. *Along the course, you will learn the fundaments of filmmaking and will accomplish a solid foundation upon which you may grow in any direction. Once there, the course will help you choose your area of interest and will provide you with the proper tools to specialize. *But, most important, this course is about who you are, what you truly want and how to achieve it. In short, it is about creating, facing and fulfilling your dream. Because, both, the film industry and yourself can be rightly seen as that: factories of dreams. And this course is about helping these factories work for good. Internship Programme: Upon successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career objectives. An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will determine their eligibility for a placement. Intake Dates: September 2017 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional) 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday) Language of Instruction: English Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it +39 06 48906653 www.uniese.it www.europeanschoolofeconomics.com. August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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USEFUL

NUMBERS ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 EMERGENCY NUMBERS

BOOKS

CHIAMAROMA

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

CINEMAS

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 August 2017 | Wanted in Rome

49


RELIGIOUS All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

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Wanted in Rome | August 2017

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 SUPPORT GROUPS Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 TRANSPORT • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it



@tastefestivalsitalia

@tastefestivalsitalia

Informazioni corrette al momento della stampa.

@TasteOf_IT


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