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8
BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN JUNE
4 ROME'S ROSE GARDEN CELEBRATES ITS FOUNDER 28
24 EXHIBITIONS
OPERA
Rome has paid tribute to Mary Gayley Senni, the American founder of the city’s rose garden, with a plaque at the Roseto Comunale on the slopes of the Aventine hill.
The unveiling ceremony on 17 May was attended by city officials and the grandchildren of the garden’s founder who was born in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, in 1884. Mary, whose father James Gayley made his
fortune in the US steel industry, arrived in Rome aged 18 on a Grand Tour of Italy with her mother and sister.
During her time in Rome, Mary met an Italian count, Giulio Senni, who she would describe as her “one true love”.
After their wedding in New York in 1907, the couple began their married life in Rome before moving to the Senni family estate in Grottaferrata, about 20 km south-east of the capital.
It was at Villla Senni that the new countess developed her love of gardening, with a particular passion for roses and irises. Mary and her husband, who had seven children together, were avid travellers and made frequent trips to the US and Europe.
A visit to the Parc de Bagatelle in Paris had a profound effect on Mary who decided that Rome should have its own rose garden. In 1924 she presented Rome with its first collection of roses, cultivated at her garden in Grottaferrata, Corriere della Sera reports. However she was unimpressed with the city’s chosen location to plant them – in the Pincio corner of Villa Borghese – and requested that her beloved roses be returned to her.
Eight years later, in 1932, Mary had better luck with the then governor of Rome, Prince Francesco Boncompagni Ludovisi, and a rose garden was created on the Oppian hill near the Colosseum.
Mary also established the prestigious Premio Roma, the annual international competition, which is held every May, to judge the most beautiful rose in the capital. The rose garden on the Colle Oppio was de-
stroyed during world war two but in 1950 the roses bloomed once more at the garden’s present site on the Aventine hill, where the Jewish cemetery had been located from 1645 until being transferred to Campo Verano in 1934. During the war, the 10,000-sqm site overlooking the Circus Maximus had been transformed into a vegetable garden before remaining uncultivated until 1950.
The city’s Jewish community agreed to the creation of the rose garden at the once sacred location but stipulated that a stele be placed at each of the two entrances and that the paths be designed in the shape of the Menorah, the traditional seven-branched Jewish candelabrum.
Mary Gayley Senni died in Rome on 14 March 1971 at the age of 87. She is buried at the Prima Porta cemetery, together with her husband Giulio who died in 1949. Serendipitously, in 2010, American author and Fulbright scholar Margaret Brucia was browsing through a collection of old handwritten letters at the Porta Portese flea market in Rome.
She bought a handful of the letters, with the intention of cutting them up to make a collage, and took them home. However before picking up a scissors she decided to read one of them.
The letter began: “Last night we had Albert Einstein for dinner...”.
Brucia immediately abandoned any idea of cutting the letters and the following Sunday she returned to the same stall at Porta Portese where she purchased dozens of other
letters from the same collection.
The letters, more than 100 in total, were written between 1902 and 1937 by Mary’s mother, a New York socialite named Julie Gardiner.
Brucia made contact with Mary’s family and soon came into possession of another 100 letters written from Mary to her mother, which had recently been discovered by chance in an attic in Maine.
All of a sudden Brucia had the entire exchange of letters between Mary and her mother, and her research led her gradually to Mary’s grandchildren in New York, Maine and Rome.
“I never met Mary, but by chance I have come to know her intimately”, Brucia said during the plaque unveiling ceremony at the Roseto Comunale, where she was joined by Mary’s grandchildren.
Mary Gayley Senni is remembered at the rose garden she founded almost a century ago as an “enterprising spirit and lover of flowers to which she dedicated her entire life”.
The Roseto Comunale, which hosts about 1,200 varieties of roses, can be visited for free every day, from 08.30 to 19.30, until 16 June.
June is one of the best times to visit Rome as the temperatures are warm but not scorching and many events at night are held outdoors. The month is bookended by two public holidays, with plenty happening in between. Here are some tips for the best things to do in Rome in June 2024.
Festa della Repubblica June kicks off with Festa della Repubblica, a national public holiday, which falls on a
Sunday this year. Now in its 78th edition, the annual event commemorates the day in 1946 when Italians voted in favour of a republic and against the monarchy. Rome will host a military parade near the Colosseum and a fly-past by the Frecce Tricolori jets which emit plumes with the colours of the Italian flag. Another novelty on 2 June is the free opening of state museums and archaeological sites including the Colosseum where firefighters will unfurl a giant Italian tricolour.
The 91st edition of the annual strawberry festival takes place in the town of Nemi in the Castelli Romani, just south of Rome, on Sunday 2 June. The popular Sagra delle fragole begins at 10.00, leading up to the main event - the distribution of free strawberries - at 18.00. The day-long festival is enlivened with numerous parallel events, including live music, flower shows, exhibitions and kids’ events.
Caracalla Festival
Rome’s opera house stages more than 60 events at its summer festival among the ancient Roman ruins at the Baths of Caracalla, from 3 June until 10 August. The Caracalla Festival spans 60 evenings under the stars and incorporates a range of genres including opera, symphonic music, dance, theatre, cinema and pop concerts. This year the festival is dedicated to the great Italian composer Puccini, on the centenary of his death, with productions of Tosca and Turandot among the highlights.
Viaggio nel Foro
Ancient Rome comes to life thanks to the
Viaggio nel Foro di Cesare project, a multimedia display screened at the Forum of Caesar every night this summer. The show uses videomapping technology to conjure up portrayals of life in Rome at the time of Julius Caesar, with commentary available in eight languages including English. Spectators enter the archaeological area near the base of Trajan’s Column before making their way through a tunnel under Via dei Fori Imperiali to the Forum of Caesar.
Cinema under the stars
Film fans can look forward to watching movies on the big screen under the stars again this summer with the return of Il Cinema in Piazza. The 10th edition of the free festival takes place from 2 June to 16 July in three different locations. In addition to its base at Piazza S. Cosimato in Trastevere, the festival will return to Parco della Cervelletta in the eastern Tor Sapienza suburb and Monte Ciocci park at Valle Aurelia. Films are screened in their original language with subtitles in Italian, while Italian movies are shown with subtitles in English.
Summer music festivals
Many of the city’s most-anticipated concerts
this summer are part of various music festivals including the Roma Summer Fest based at the open-air Cavea venue at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. In June the festival includes acts such as The National (3 June); Glen Hansard (25 June) and Simple Minds (27-28 June). Rock in Roma also offers a multi-genre programme featuring Italian and international artists based mainly at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle while the Stadio Olimpico hosts several concerts this summer including three shows by Ultimo (22-24 June).
Rome celebrates its patron saints Peter and Paul with a public holiday in the Italian cap ital on 29 June. The annual event includes a religious procession at the Basilica of St Paul’s Outside the Walls and an infiorata floral display in front of St Peter’s. However the main attraction for most people is the spectacular fireworks display, known as the Girandola, in the sky over Castel S. Angelo. The idea of Michelangelo, perfected by Ber nini, the tradition dates to the 15th century and takes place at 22.30.
For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, o ers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We also highlight the beaches that have been awarded Bandiera Blu (Blue Flag) status in 2024 for meeting the international quality standards for cleanliness.
The northern-most beach on our list o ers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.
Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.
A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to ock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.
OSTIA/CANCELLI
Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli o er free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get o at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.
ANZIO/NETTUNO
These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping rst at Anzio ( Blue Flag 2024) and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.
Famous for its beauty and spaciousness. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussoli ni-era architecture. Blue Flag 2024.
S. FELICE CIRCEO
Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it de nitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get o at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Blue Flag 2024.
Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get o at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Blue Flag 2024.
The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get o at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Blue Flag
This area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get o at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it. Blue Flag 2024.
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ARTandSEEK
English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.
Bioparco
Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.
Bowling Silvestri
is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.
Casa del Parco
Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.
Casina di Ra aello
Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.
Cinecittà World
is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.
Climbing
Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.
Explora
e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.
Go-karting
Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.
Gymboree is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.
Hortis Urbis
Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.
Il Nido
Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur
Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.
Rainbow Magicland
e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.
Time Elevator
A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.
Zoomarine
is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.
from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.
Esquilino
Esquilino
Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47. Marconi
Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.
Marconi
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz
This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense
This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.
Ostiense
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.
Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.
Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Pigneto
Pigneto
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi.
2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.
Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.
Prati
Prati
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.
Primavalle
Primavalle
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.
Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro
Quadraro
Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.
NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.
Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.
Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.
Rebibbia
Rebibbia
Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).
WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
S. Basilio
S. Basilio
SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
S. Giovanni
S. Giovanni
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.
S. Lorenzo
S. Lorenzo
Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.
Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.
Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.
Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.
S. Pietro
S. Pietro
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Testaccio
Testaccio
Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.
Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.
Tor Pignattara
Tor Pignattara
Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.
Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.
Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.
Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.
Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.
Tor Marancia
Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia
The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.
The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS
Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.
Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere
This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Galleria Varsi
A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nero Gallery
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
The Gallery Apart
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
TraleVolte
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
Von Buren Contemporary Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.
25 MAY-25 AUG
Palazzo Bonaparte premieres a new exhibition project by Mario Testino, one of the most celebrated contemporary fashion photographers in the world. Testino is famed for his innovate shots in leading fashion publications of celebrities including Kate Moss, Madonna, Naomi Campbell and Princess Diana. However over the past seven years Testino has turned his lense to new horizons, far away from the fashion scene, exploring and documenting cultural heritage in more than 30 countries around the world. The result is around 70 large-format photographs presented together in the Rome exhibition for the first time. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.
21 MAY-3 NOV
The Ara Pacis Museum hosts an exhibition dedicated to the world of theatre in ancient Roman times, focusing on theatrical performances, masks and the lives of actors. The exhibition comprises 240 artefacts including ancient terracotta masks, statuettes of actors, dancers and jugglers, and musical instruments such as tibiae, lyres and crotales. The show also uses immersive multimedia technology to take visitors backstage to discover the Roman theatre experience behind the curtains. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.
17 MAY-6 OCT
The Museo di Roma in Trastevere hosts the first Italian retrospective of the celebrated Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba whose work focuses on the identity of African women. The Rome retrospective presents a se-
ries of recent works by the Amsterdam-based photographer who is best known for her humanistic photography, much of it in black and white, but also in strong colours. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.
15 MAY-25 AUG
Rome celebrates the genius of Filippo and Filippino Lippi, the 15th-century father and son artists, with an exhibition titled Ingenuity and bizarreness in Renaissance art. The show at Palazzo Caffarelli, part of the Capitoline Museums, features masterpieces by both Renaissance masters including Filippo Lippi’s Madonna Trivulzio from the Castello Sforzesco in Milan and Filippino Lippi’s Annunciazione from the Musei Civici di San Gimignano. Also on display is a a selection of important drawings that reveal Filippino Lippi’s relationship not only with his father, in whose workshop he was trained, but also with Sandro Botticelli, in whose Florentine workshop Filippino entered following the death of his father in 1469. Palazzo Caf-
farelli, Capitoline Museums, www. museicapitolini.org.
9 MAY-9
Rome hosts an exhibition dedicated to the 2024 edition of World Press Photo at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. The show presents a national preview of the winning images of the international photojournalism competition which awards the best professional photographers every year since 1955. The 2024 Photo of the Year goes to Mohammed Salem for his image of a Palestinian woman cradling the body of her five-year-old niece who was killed, along with her mother and sister, when an Israeli missile struck their home in Khan Younis, Gaza. The winning Story of the Year is by Lee-Ann Olwage for her images of Paul Rakotozandriny, ‘Dada Paul’ (91), who has lived with dementia for 11 years and is cared for by his daughter at home in Madagascar. The Long-Term Project Award goes to Alejandro Cegarra for his photos charting the hardship of Mexican, Venezuelan and Haitian migrants and asylum seekers. Winner of the Open Format Award is Julia Kochetova for a project that
weaves together photographic images with poetry, audio clips and music charting the war in Ukraine. Each year an independent jury at the World Press Photo Foundation in Amsterdam selects images for this prestigious recognition of international photojournalism, with winners chosen in eight categories including general news, sports, the environment and portraits. The 67th annual World Press Photo Contest drew more than 60,000 entries from 3,581 photographers from 130 different countries. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioniroma. it.
24 APRIL-21 JULY
The Colosseum Archaeological Park stages a unique exhibition devoted to bird-themed haute couture from some of the most famous fashion houses in the world. Curated by Sofia Gnoli, the exhibition of sumptuous clothes and accessories is hosted in the 16th-century Farnese Aviaries on the Palatine Hill, set in the world’s first botantic garden. Some of the show’s highlights include a winged white swan dress by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior; a black swan dress by Alexander McQueen for Givenchy; a corset dress embroidered
with rooster and pheasant feathers by Dolce&Gabbana Alta Moda; and a golden micro-dress with ostrich wings designed by Donatella Versace for Katy Perry who wore it to the MET Gala in 2018. Access to the exhibition is included in tickets for the Palatine Hill and can be visited every day (except on free entry days) from 09.00–18.45 with last entry at 18.30. For full details see website, www.colosseo.it.
17 APRIL-7 JULY
The Museo di Roma in Trastevere hosts a retrospective dedicated to the Spanish photographer, artist and poet Ouka Leele who died in 2022. Born Bárbara Allende Gil de Biedma in 1957, Ouka Leele was a star of the Movida Madrileña cultural explosion that followed the end of the Francisco Franco dictatorship. The exhibition features her early photographs from her first exhibition in Madrid in 1978 up to her final series made in Asturias in 2014. There are about 100 photographs on display along with archive material including posters and publications featuring her images. See cover of this edition. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.
30 MARCH-28 JULY
The Museo Storico della Fanteria in Rome celebrates Impressionism as part of celebrations to mark the 150th anniversary of the founding of the revolutionary art movement in Paris. The exhibition, which documents the origins and history of Impressionism, features around 200 works from private collections, most of which will be unfamiliar to the public. On display are works by Impressionist masters including Monet, Degas, Manet, Renoir, Cézanne, Gauguin and Pissarro, as well as other lesser known artists. Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 9. For visiting details see exhibition website, www.navigaresrl.com/ mostra/impressionisti/.
29 MARCH-30 JUNE
Two priceless art collections in Rome will merge this spring when Palazzo Barberini hosts 50 masterpieces from Galleria Borghese while the latter undergoes renovation works. The exhibition will see the celebrated paintings go on display at the National Galleries of Ancient Art in Palazzo Barberini in an “unprecedented collaboration” that will allow the public to continue to view the Galleria Borghese paintings even
during the major renovation works in its Pinacoteca. The paintings on display in Palazzo Barberini include Portrait of a Man by Antonello da Messina, Madonna and Child by Giovanni Bellini, Madonna and Child with St John and Angels by Sandro Botticelli, Portrait of a Young Woman with a Unicorn by Raphael, Susanna and the Elders by Peter Paul Rubens, Sacred and Profane Love by Titian, and St John the Baptist Preaching by Paolo Veronese. The collections of the two galleries share a similar history, linked to two key figures from Roman political and cultural life in the 17th century, Maffeo Barberini and Scipione Borghese. The newly appointed director of Palazzo Barberini, Thomas Clement Salomon, said the two historical figures “would have rejoiced” at the joint initiative. Francesca Cappelletti, director of Galleria Borghese, said that “with an exceptional effort the gallery will never close and will remain open to visitors during the works”. For the duration of the renovation works, the ticket price is reduced at Galleria Borghese whose visitors can avail of much-discounted tickets at Palazzo Barberini. Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.
27 MARCH-16 JUNE
The Scuderie del Quirinale hosts an exhibition dedicated to the depiction of Naples and the surrounding area in paintings from the 19th century. The works on display document the great cultural production of Naples in an era that stretched from the days of the Grand Tour to the outbreak of world war one. European and American artists descended on the city, attracted by the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, the sea, the mountains, Mount Vesuvius, the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida, the coasts of Amalfi and Sorrento, the folklore, the splendour and decay of a bustling Neapolitan life. The exhibition features paintings by artists including Edgar Degas, William Turner, Thomas Jones, John Singer Sargent, Anton van Pitloo, Giuseppe De Nittis and
Mariano Fortuny. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.
6 MARCH-9 JUNE
Rome’s Palazzo delle Espozioni stages a major retrospective dedicated to the celebrated Italian abstract artist Carla Accardi on the centenary of her birth. The exhibition, curated by Daniela Lancioni and Paola Bonani, comprises around 100 works spanning the entire career of the artist, a key figure in contemporary Italian and international visual culture. Born in the Sicilian city of Trapani in 1924, Accardi arrived in Rome in 1946 where she quickly became a leading figure in the capital’s avant-garde circles. Together with her husband Antonio Sanfilippo she formed the Marxist-inspired Gruppo Forma 1 with other artists including Giulio Turcato, Piero Dorazio and Pietro Consagra. In the mid-1960s she left behind her black and white abstract paintings to embracing more vibrant and intense colours, as well as incorporating Sicofoil, a transparent plastic used in commercial packaging, into her works. Her work influenced new artistic approaches, from abstractionism and informal art to ambient art and dematerialized art, and she was celebrated for her largescale diptychs and triptychs in the 1990s and 2000s. Accardi exhibited in major art institutions around the world and lived on Via del Babuino in the historic centre of Rome, where she painted until her death in 2014 aged 89. Palazzo delle Exposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www. palazzoesposizioniroma.it.
20 FEB-23 JUNE
Rome stages a major exhibition dedicated to the world of Ukiyoe, a genre of Japanese art that flourished from the 17th through 19th centuries, at Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi. Curated by Rossella Menegazzo, the features 150 works on loan from the E. Chiossone Museum of Oriental Art in Genoa and the Museum of Civi-
lizations in Rome. The exhibition includes works by masters of the Edo period, including Kitagawa Utamaro, Katsushika Hokusai, of whom the Great Wave of Kanagawa is on display, Keisai Eisen and the Utagawa school with Toyokuni, Toyoharu, Hiroshige, Kuniyoshi, Kunisada. The term ukiyo-e translates as ‘picture[s] of the floating world’ and its artists produced woodblock prints and paintings of such subjects as female beauties; kabuki actors and sumo wrestlers; scenes from history and folk tales; travel scenes and landscapes; flora and fauna; and erotica. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza Navona 2, www.museodiroma.it.
Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Daniele Gatti conducts the Orchestra and Chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia performing choruses and overtures from Luisa Miller, I lombardi alla prima crociata, Macbeth, Don Carlo, Nabucco, I vespri siciliani, Otello, and Aida. 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Kirill Petrenko conducts the Viennabased Gustav Mahler Jugendorchester in a performance of Bruckner’s Symphony No. 5. 20.30. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Tugan Sokhiev conducts the Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia performing Shostakovich’s Symphony No.7 Leningrad. 6 June 19.30. 7 June 20.30. 8 June 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
3 JUNE-13 SEPT
Many of the city’s most-anticipated concerts this summer are part of various music festivals including Roma Summer Fest, based at the open-air Cavea venue at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The festival has a varied programme of acts including The National (3 June); Glen Hansard (25 June); Queens of the Stone Age (4 July); Take That (8 July); Ludovico Einaudi (13-14 July); Marcus Miller (28 July); and
Lahav Shani conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus, with pianist Martha Argerich, performing Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 2 and Symphony No. 9, with soprano Chen Reiss, mezzosoprano Okka von der Damerau, tenor Siyabonga Maqungo, bass Giorgi Manoshvili and chorus master Andrea Secchi. 13 June 19.30, 14 June 20.30, 15 June 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
18, 20, 25, 27 JUNE
Daniele Gatti condcts a series of concerts dedicated to Beethoven’s Symphonies, performed by the Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, on four dates at the end of June. The first date, 18 June, will be Symphonies No. 1, 4 and 5. The second performance, on 20 June, will be Symphonies No. 2 and 3. On 25 June Gatti will
conduct Symphonies No. 6 and 7 while on 27 June it will be Symphonies No. 8 and 9. All concerts take place at 20.30 in the Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.
Fat Boy Slim (4 Sept). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
Rock in Roma also offers a multigenre programme featuring Italian and international artists at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle, with a few concerts also taking place at the Cavea. The 2024 line-up includes Geolier (28 June); Bruce Dickinson (5 July); Cat Power sings Dylan (7 July); Placebo (8 July); Deep Purple (10 July); and Loreena McKennitt (22 July). Ippodromo delle Capannelle, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www. rockinroma.com.
Rome’s opera house, Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, will stage more than 60 events at its summer festival among the ancient Roman ruins at the Baths of Caracalla. The Caracalla Festival 2024 spans 60 evenings and incorporates a range of genres including opera, symphonic music, dance, theatre, cinema and pop concerts. The programme of events takes place under the stars at the 4,500-seat arena and the Teatro del Portico in the area of the Temple of Jupiter, and will pay tribute to the great composer Puccini on the centenary of his death. Francesco Giambrone, superintendent of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, said that last year’s record 115,000 admissions encouraged organisers of the festival to add extra dates and broaden the scope of the multidisciplinary event. “To celebrate the centenary of Puccini’s death, we have commissioned the architect Massimiliano Fuksas with the creative project of both operas on the programme, Tosca and Turandot” – Giambrone said – “Fuksas has created for us a tailormade installation especially designed for the space of the Teatro Grande in Caracalla, with Francesco Micheli as music director.”
In addition to Tosca (5 July-9 August) and Turandot (16 July-10 August), the opera programme will feature three events: Regnava nel silenzio (26 June), a tribute to the music of Verdi and Donizetti with singers from the ‘Fabbrica’ young artists project, and two concerts by the Scuola di Canto Corale on 28 June and 8 July.
The dance programme opens with Le notti romane di Dior (9-10 July), a performance that combines fashion, music and dance starring Eleonora Abbagnato along with the étoile, principal dancers, soloists and the Corps de Ballet of the Rome Opera. The traditional Roberto Bolle and Friends event also returns to Caracalla on 19 and 20 July.
The festival pays homage to Walt Disney with a one-off symphonic concert on 23 July. Timothy Brock will conduct the Orchestra dell’Opera di Roma performing some of the highlights from the Disney film Fantasia (1940) and its sequel Fantasia 2000, along with the screening of some scenes from the animated classic. On 30 July, Wayne Marshall, in the double capacity of pianist and conductor, will celebrate the centenary of George Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue, along with a selection of pieces from Porgy and Bess, An American in Paris, the overture from the musical
Girl Crazy, and the suite Three Dance Episodes from Leonard Bernstein’s On the Town. Puccini will be celebrated with two theatre performances and a three-night film festival, while a novelty this year, on 25 and 26 June, will be the blucinQue company performing the Puccini Dance Circus Opera. The festival includes a series of pop concerts: Fiorella Mannoia (3-4 June), Francesco De Gregori and Checco Zalone (5 and 9 June), Ornella Vanoni (6 June), Samuele Bersani (7 June), Il Volo (8 June), John Legend (10 June), Pooh (11 and 12 June), Biagio Antonacci (13 and 14 June), Antonello Venditti (18, 19 and 21 June) and Umberto Tozzi (20 June). There are also two jazz concerts on 18 July and 5 August, and three evenings of Late night jazz on 31 July, 2 and 3 August. Another novelty this year will be exclusive guided tours at sunset which can be purchased in combination with tickets for opera or ballet performances scheduled for the same evening, by contacting promozione. pubblico@operaroma.it.
Tickets for the performances range from €10 to €120 and are on sale at the box office of the Teatro dell’Opera of Rome and online via Ticketone. For full programme of Caracalla Festival 2024 see Teatro dell’Opera di Roma website, www.operaroma.it.
Rome has launched a major restoration project at Villa Aldobrandini as part of efforts to redevelop the park and make it more accessible to visitors. Despite its central location on the Quirinal hill, the villa designed by Giacomo della Porta is little-known to tourists and under-visited by Romans due to its limited accessibility. The city plans to change all that by opening up the high-walled villa with new access points, elevators and coffee houses. The €8.3 million project at the 16th-century villa is divided into two sections, the first of which got underway last month. Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri said the project “is one of the most significant and important construction sites” being carried out by the city, describing the villa as “an architectural jewel abandoned for decades and in some cases for centuries.” The first part of the scheme, with funds of €2.7 million, will focus on redeveloping the villa’s grounds as well as restoring a 16th-century loggia. A coffee house will be created at the corner of the villa between Via Nazionale and Largo Magnanapoli with an elevator connecting to the garden. The second section of the project, with funds of €5.6 million, is scheduled to start after the Jubilee Year, in January 2026. The works will involve reopening public access from Via Nazionale, restoring a staircase and installing a new lift, reclaiming the pavilion at the corner of Via Nazionale and Via Mazzarino, reviving the gardens and illuminating archaeological excavations.
A brief history of Villa Aldobrandini
Originally from Florence, the Aldobrandini family was at the height of its powers when Ippolito Aldobrandini became Pope Clement VIII in 1592. In 1600 the pope bought a large site on the Quirinal hill from the Vitelli family and donated it to his nephew Cardinal Pietro Aldobrandini. The existing buildings were demolished to make way for the construction of a new villa while the cardinal set about decorating his new home with a vast
collection of art and filled the gardens with marble statues. The grounds of the villa were reduced drastically, to the current size, with the construction of Via Nazionale, built after Rome became Italy’s capital in 1871. The villa remained in the hands of the Aldobrandini family until 1926 when it became the property of the Italian state.
Ancient Rome comes to life thanks to the Viaggio nel Foro project, a multimedia display screened at the Forum of Caesar every night this summer until 22 September. Created by Piero Angela and Paco Lanciano, the show uses videomapping technology to conjure up portrayals of life in Rome at the time of Julius Caesar. It also includes archive footage of the demolitions and excavations carried out between 1924 and 1932 to make way for the then Via dell’Impero (today Via dei Fori Imperiali). The Viaggio nel Foro experience lasts about 50 minutes and is in the form of a walking tour. Spectators enter the archaeological area via the steps near the base of Trajan’s Column (there is a lift for disabled visitors) before making their way through a tunnel under Via dei Fori Imperiali to the Forum of Caesar. In addition to providing a spectacle with visual and audio special effects, the shows are accompanied by commentary available in eight languages: Italian, English, French, Russian, Spanish, German, Chinese and Japanese. Tickets can be pre-purchased online on site, via the website or from tourist information points in the city. For full information, in English, see Viaggi nei Fori website, www.viaggioneifori.it.
Andy Devane
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.
Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com
Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.
Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361
Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com
Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485
Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825
Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230
Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com
Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361
Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825
Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230
Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068
Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361
Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116
Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361
Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068
Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111
Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116
Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361
Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111
Troisi, Via Girolamo Induno 1, www.cinematroisi.it.
Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com
Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com
Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it
Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org
Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org
Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com
theatreCasa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
By Kate Zagorski
Cacio e pepe is a classic Roman pasta tradition which, until recently, was somewhat unknown outside of Italy. However, the last couple of years have seen the international food scene embrace this simple dish which was born from humble necessity, giving it a more glamorous lease of life. The dish originated in the Lazio countryside where shepherds would pack food to carry with them on the long journeys to move their ocks. Alongside cured meat products they would also take chunks of the local aged sheep milk cheese (which did not need refrigeration), handmade our and water pasta that could be eaten dried for carbohydrates, and black pepper to stimulate warmth. These three ingredients eventually involved into the pasta dish we know and love, and the origins underline once and for all that there is no place for butter or oil in the authentic recipe.
Nowadays cacio e pepe is usually served with a long, square-cut, fresh egg pasta called tonnarelli which gives an added richness to the dish and speeds up cooking time, but normal dried spaghetti can also be used. As with most seemingly easy recipes, the trick is in the timing and testing the perfect ratio of ingredients. Sadly, overcooking and not enough mixing will often result in a sticky, unpleasant nal dish rather than the silky, creamy cheese sauce with a punch of pepper which constitutes the perfect result. The recipe below utilises a little-known trick of heating the pepper in a pan of water to infuse the avour before nishing the cooking of the pasta in the peppery liquid. Extra starchy cooking water continuous mixing of the cheese should ensure the right consistency but, as any Roman will tell you, practice makes perfect.
250g fresh tonnarelli
70g pecorino romano, nely grated
190ml cold water
26 twists freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil.
In a separate frying pan, heat 190ml of cold water and twist in the black pepper with a pepper mill. Cook on a medium heat until it just begins to simmer.
Cook the tonnarelli in the saucepan of boiling water as per the packet instructions but drain one minute before the end of the suggested cooking time, keeping aside the starchy pasta water.
Place the tonnarelli in the frying pan of peppery water and cook for the nal minute, stirring well. Gradually add in 1-2 cups of the starchy pasta water as you go.
When the pasta is al dente remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the pecorino, stirring immediately. Toss the pan for 30 seconds, building up the creamy sauce. If the mixture is too dry add a little more cooking water and just keep stirring.
Serve immediately with an extra sprinkling of pecorino romano and another good crack of black pepper.
Flaminio, a neighbourhood only a stone’s throw from the city centre, is now home to a whole host of cocktail and aperitivo bars. You can take part in the ‘spritzmania’ or opt for a more traditional cocktail – there’s something for everyone. Food-wise you’ll find fresh fish, international cuisine, or even the finest cheese and charcuterie boards. We’ve selected five of the best bars for pre- or post-dinner, from new openings to old favourites.
Run by passionate and skilled sommelier Ciro Borriello, at Enoteca Mostò you’ll be advised on the perfect wine to suit your palate, with a brilliant selection of natural and French wines in particular. As for the food, there isn't a huge choice but what is on offer is fantastic quality. Aperitivo begins from 18.30 and you can choose a glass of either Franciacorta Brut Vezzoli (€7) or Particella 928 Cantina del Barone (€8) accompanied by a plate of tapas (€6) and artisan sausage. You can also order from the main menu and we highly recommend the desserts: millefeuille (€7) and white chocolate cheesecake with almond, mango and lime crumble (€7). Mon closed.
Facing on to Piazza Melozzo da Forlì, Apoteca is the perfect spot for an aperitivo pre-theatre or before heading to the stadium. There are seats at the bar where you can admire the large selection of craft beers. If you don’t fancy a beer there are also cocktails, mocktails and wine served by the glass. At aperitivo hour you can choose from a charcuterie (€10) or cheese board (€12), or even meat balls (€7), or the apotecaburger (€14). Apoteca serves cocktails both pre and post dinner.
One of the most recent bar openings in Flamminio, Metropolita is located right in front of the Ponte della Musica and is open from 18.00 until 02.00 (or until 17.00 on Sunday). You can enjoy either a cocktail or a glass of
wine accompanied by a selection of antipasti from the kitchen. The barmen serve both cocktails from all over the world, like the London Tequila (€11), as well as the usual classics (from €6-8). If you feel like something else to eat there’s also hummus served with pane carasau (Sardinian flat bread) (€6) or a platter of Italian and French cheeses (€18). The Metropolita can seat 65 people over its three floors. Open every day except Mondays.
This is the new fish restaurant in the Flaminio neighbourhood. The name, which means ‘filleting’, and the interiors create a seaside feel. Every day from 18.00 you can enjoy a glass of wine (from €5) and try some delicious fish dishes. On Thursdays the chef prepares five tasting plates to accompany five of the wines, and each week the selection is different.
Located in the garden of Piazzale Manila, Tree Bar is a very popular place, especially with young people. Live music, competitions and the huge seating area outside make it a fun place to hang out. On Mondays there is an aperitivo buffet. You can also enjoy wine, beer or a cocktail with a cheese or meat board (€12 or €10) and then if you’re still peckish choose the dish of the day or from the main menu. We also highly recommend their homemade desserts (from €6-8) and their selection of spirits. Open daily from 18.30 to 01.30.
www.puntarellarossa.it
Enoteca Mostò, Viale Pinturicchio 32, tel. 3922579616.
Apoteca, Piazza Melozzo da Forlì 15, tel. 3662511733.
Metropolita, Piazza Gentile da Fabbriano 2, tel. 063240249.
Diliscando, Viale del Vignola 7, tel. 0689131376. Tree bar, Via Flaminia 226, tel. 0632652754.
American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org
American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org
Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com
Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com
Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli
Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net
Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com
Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.
Almost Corner Bookshop
Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942
Anglo American Bookshop
Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222
Bibliothèque Centre Culturel
Saint-Louis de France (French)
Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it
La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)
Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com
Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
All Saints’ Anglican Church
Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881
Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30
Anglican Centre
Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com
Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org
Bible Baptist Church
Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00
Christian Science Services
Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425
Church of All Nations
Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464
Church of Sweden
Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it
Irish Club of Rome
irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org
Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820
Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org
Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org
United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com
Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484
Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it
Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com
Otherwise
Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian
South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it
International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695
International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00
Jewish Community
Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061
Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas
Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761
Lutheran Church
Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church
Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)
Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00
Roma Baptist Church
Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)
Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara
Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091
Rome International Church
Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org
Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)
Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258
St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church
Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00
St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)
Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com
Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it
Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306
Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it
Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it
Caritas soup kitchen
(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily
Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554
Caritas hostel
Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235
Caritas legal assistance
Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369
Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it
• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it
• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it
• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994
• Traffic info tel. 1518
• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)
Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00
St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org
Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30
St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)
Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30
Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00
Comunità di S. Egidio
Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234
Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027
Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre
St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339
Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it
Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772
Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)
Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351
Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104
The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
• Ambulance tel. 118
• Carabinieri tel. 112
• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336
• Fire brigade tel. 115
• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999
• Police tel. 113
• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355