Wanted in Rome - November 2020 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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CONT

EDITORIALS

4. COVID-19 CRUSHES ITALY'S CULTURE Andy Devane

10. FROM HEAD TEACHER

IN ROME TO SCHOOL INSPECTOR IN MALAWI Margaret Stenhouse

16. WHEN ENGLISH

MEETS ITALIAN Martin Bennett

20. INTERVIEW WITH

HEAD OF ST THOMAS'S INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL IN VITERBO

MISCELLANY

22. 24. 26. 28. 30. 34. 49. 52. 57. 58. 60.

WHAT'S ON

38. EXHIBITIONS 45. CLASSICAL 46. ART news

TO DO CALENDAR Lakes around rome ROME FOR children STREET ART guide MUSEUMS ART GALLERIES CULTURAL VENUES WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR RECIPE PUNTARELLA ROSSA USEFUL NUMBERS

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 12, Numero 10 NOVEMBER 2020 | € 2,00

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/10/2020

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Shepard Fairey, Guns and Roses, 2019 Silkscreen and mixed media collage on paper Image courtesy of the artist. Exhibition at Galleria d'Arte Moderna, Via Crispi. For more details see page 41.

ENTS 4

COVID-19 CRUSHES ITALY'S CULTURE

WHEN ENGLISH MEETS ITALIAN

ART NEWS

36 EXHIBITIONS

Arts

COVID-19 CRUSHES ITALY'S CULTURE ITALY'S NEW CORONAVIRUS RESTRICTIONS COME AS A DEVASTATING BLOW TO THE CULTURAL SECTOR WHICH WAS JUST GETTING BACK ON ITS FEET AFTER A NIGHTMARE YEAR Andy Devane

he Italian government’s recent order to close all theatres, cinemas and concert halls due to the coronavirus pandemic sent shock waves through the nation’s already embattled cultural sector. Still reeling from the spring lockdown, the performing arts had begun to limp forward as summer turned to autumn, hampered severely

by social distancing measures but nevertheless open for business. This new cultural shutdown, part of a raft of measures announced by premier Giuseppe Conte on 25 October, was met with immediate calls for the government to spare an exhausted sector that has already been brought to its knees.

Social distancing at Rome's opera house. Photo Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

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Arts

Romaeuropa Festival is starting to move its productions online.

The decision, which affects all those in the performing arts and cinema, will remain in effect until at least 24 November, and possibly much longer. The order has led to the curtain coming down at the great opera houses in Rome and Milan, as well as resulting in the cancellation of classical concerts, plays and avant-garde theatre festivals. When the news first broke, the Teatro dei Colli in Padua staged a mock “funeral of the theatre, killed by the decree.” This year’s Rome Film Fest, which concluded on the night of Conte’s announcement, made it by the skin of its teeth. However there has been a major backlash from the world of show business. The government has been bombarded with requests to change its mind, signed by Italian actors, directors, performers, theatre workers, cinema owners, producers and playwrights. The national union of audiovisual, theatre and live entertainment workers (Unita) has called for theatres and cinemas to be reopened as soon as possible, stating: “We are not free time. We are work and much more.” Roman actor Pierfrancesco Favino shared this message

on social media, adding: “Culture is a basic common good like water; the theatres, the libraries, the cinemas are like many aqueducts.” Italy’s minister of culture and tourism Dario Franceschini has faced an avalanche of criticism and appeals, including a petition by musical association Vissi d’Arte which has reached more than 100,000 signatures. Franceschini said the decision had been “painful” but refused to backtrack, saying: “Perhaps those who criticise have not understood the gravity of the situation we are experiencing.” Underlining his commitment “to make the closure as short as possible,” Franceschini said that the goal was to reduce people moving around, and that the move was not a reflection on theatres and cinemas which have respected the rules. “Right now the priority is to safeguard people’s lives,” said the minister, adding that museums remain open because visitors enter in a staggered manner and do not congregate. Earlier this summer the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma became Europe’s first opera house to resume productions when it moved to an open-air stage in the Circus Maximus, achieving critical acclaim while adhering to the strictest of covid-19 protocols. In Wanted in Rome

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Arts unless they can find a way of paying a nominal fee for the repeat performances, but their traditional audiences and new ones will be grateful. Romaeuropa, the capital’s multidisciplinary arts festival, was stopped in its tracks as well. Many doubted that the annual festival would take place at all this year but on 18 September, against all the odds, it launched its 35th edition. Its cuttingedge programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology adapted to the covid-19 protocols, not without difficulty, presenting 44 live productions to 12,848 spectators until its premature end on 25 October. The festival said it was “grateful” to have got as far as it did but was “saddened” for the shows that it will not be able to stage in front of a live audience. It too will start to move shows online.

Pierfrancesco Favino. Photo taniavolobueva / Shutterstock.com.

October the opera house welcomed spectators back to its Teatro Costanzi base to see five performances of a magnificent new production of Mozart’s Zaide, directed by Graham Vick, but was then forced to cancel the re-run of Sofia Coppola’s version of Verdi’s La Traviata in November. The recent reprogramming challenges were also met admirably by the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia which moved its summer symphonic season outdoors, with socially-distanced guests enjoying the music of Beethoven in the Cavea arena at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. Now that it finds itself back in lockdown territory, S. Cecilia has responded by taking to the airwaves. In what may be a sign of things to come, a concert by cellist Luigi Piovano and the S. Cecilia choir will be held without an audience and broadcast live on Rai Radio 3 at 20.30 on 29 October. It will also be interesting to see if the Maurizio Pollini concert, rescheduled from April, then from the end of September will finally go ahead on 30 November. Both Rome’s opera theatre and S. Cecilia made the very most of social media during the lockdown from March-May so they will probably do the same all over again. This is no substitute for ticket sales, 6

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The chamber of Italian opera foundations (ANFOL) has taken the news on the chin. It has also proposed live-streaming productions, in the absence of the public, to be shared via the social media channels of all 12 Italian opera foundations. Announcing the plan, titled Open Despite Everything, organisers said: “We want to help keep the light of hope alight to help everyone in this difficult time.” The upcoming Rossini Opera Festival in Pesaro, originally scheduled from 1-29 November, has adapted its programme in light of the new decree. The productions, rescheduled to begin on 14 November, will now be performed live, without an audience, and streamed for free. In a surprise move, Italian news agency ANSA has offered to make its digital platforms available to Italian theatres and cultural institutions to host shows and events until 25 November. “It seemed right to us” – said the agency’s director Luigi Contu – “to support the efforts of those who in this dark period of the country’s cultural life do not intend to stop their activity.” Franceschini thanked ANSA and appealed to the media to give more visibility to cultural events. However it appears that a sizeable majority in the world of cinema, entertainment and the performing arts favour an outright lifting of the measures. Among the most senior figures to lend his voice to this call is Riccardo Muti, the celebrated conductor of opera and classical music, who penned a “heartfelt appeal” to Conte calling on the prime minister to reverse his decision.

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Arts In an open letter published in Italian newspaper of record Corriere della Sera, Muti decried the definition of theatrical and musical activity as “superfluous” by some government representatives, in what he said was “an expression of ignorance, showing a lack of culture and sensitivity.” Muti claimed that the shutdown “does not take into account the sacrifice and suffering of thousands of artists and workers from all sectors of the performing arts who are insulted by this decision and are left fearful for their futures.” Muti also pointed out that theatres are managed by people who are “well aware” of the anti-covid regulations which they have “always respected meticulously.” Conte replied to Muti with a letter, also published in the Corriere, stating that the government was forced to make the “painful decision,” with the primary aim of “regaining control of the epidemiological curve and preventing its continued rise from compromising the efficiency of our health system.” Stating that it was “not a decision we took lightly,” Conte acknowledged the “enormous difficulties” suffered by those employed in arts and entertainment. However he assured Muti that the government “certainly does not intend to give up on beauty, culture, music, art, cinema and theatre,” without which “our spiritual dimension could not survive.” The premier ended his letter by insisting that the government is working towards an “effective relaunch” of the cultural sector “as soon as possible.” In an unfortunate twist of fate, and despite repeated reassurances of the safety of theatres and cinemas, 21 performers at La Scala in Milan have tested positive for covid-19 since Conte announced the new restrictions. Originally there were two singers infected with the virus, including tenor Francesco Meli, however this has spread to 18 members of the chorus and three woodwind players in the orchestra, according to a statement released by La Scala on 28 October. On the same day, Italian media reported that 12 positive cases were registered at the S. Carlo opera house Riccardo Muti has called for the reopening of theatres. Photo by Todd Rosenberg.

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in Naples, involving management, orchestra, chorus and dancers. The news coincided with the government unveiling a €5.4 billion stimulus package for those affected by the decree, which also shuts bars and restaurants at 18.00 and closes gyms and swimming pools completely. The package includes tax breaks, grants and additional funds for temporary lay-off schemes, with more than €1 billion going to culture and tourism. “The aid will be immediate to compensate those who have suffered the consequences of a sudden closure as a result of the last decree,” said Franceschini. And while the funding has been welcomed, it is cold comfort to those whose livelihoods and lives are intertwined in a sector whose future has never been so uncertain. They have been left wondering when the spotlights and projectors will be switched back on, when the audience will revel once more in the magic of stage and screen. It also remains to be seen if the government’s injection of funds will be enough to quell a planned nationwide protest on the morning of 30 October. Trade unions representing people employed in the entertainment sector are organising demonstrations to be held simultaneously in around 20 Italian cities over what they see as the “death” of Italy’s culture. Promising to help the sector through the emergency as well as in the restart, Franceschini said he believes there will be “a very strong demand for culture” when we eventually come out on the other side. “At the end of this terrible experience” – he said – “there will be a great desire to live.”

Humanitarian

FROM HEAD TEACHER IN ROME TO SCHOOL INSPECTOR IN MALAWI THE STORY OF A RETIRED TEACHER WHO TRAVELLED AROUND MALAWI INSPECTING SCHOOLS Margaret Stenhouse

hen Jill Bennett retired as head teacher of Rome International School in 2002, she decided to dedicate herself to a term of voluntary work where her particular skills would benefit youngsters in difficult circumstances in an underdeveloped country. Here she talks to Wanted in Rome about her experiences. “Many employers and aid agencies would have believed that a 65-year-old grandmother was too old to head off for a new life as a volunteer worker in Africa,” she said with a smile. “But not Voluntary Service Overseas (motto: ‘Sharing Skills. Changing Lives’), which is one of the few actively non-ageist aid organisations that appreciates the experience and expertise a mature person has to offer.”

capital of the northern region, as part of a Malawian inspection team, responsible for monitoring and improving schools in the north of the country.” A routine day involved teaching 75 students, ranging in age from 11 to 19, in a classroom with no resources except a blackboard and chalk. The school day started at 07.00 when the pupils were supposed to be in class for half an hour quietly reading, even though “ none of them had textbooks

After a concentrated training programme, Bennett was sent to the small African state of Malawi, ranked as the sixth poorest country in the world and afflicted with the numerous woes common to so many African nations, such as endemic poverty, famine, soil erosion, periodic drought and disastrous flooding, inefficient governance and the ever-hovering deadly threat of HIV/AIDS, referred to locally and euphemistically as “the slim disease”. Conflict is mercifully missing from the list. Malawi (formerly known as Nyasaland) was one of the earliest colonies to gain independence from British rule in 1964 and is at present governed by a multiparty democratic system. It is heavily dependent on donor aid from various developed countries. “I was sent to work for the education department in the small town of Mzuzu, the administrative 10

Wanted in Rome

Jill Bennett with a little friend in Malawi.

A typical classroom in Malawi.

and library books barely exist. Some of them made do with scraps of paper torn from newspapers or one book to be shared among them.” The tea break in the staffroom was another lesson in economising. “It involved a teaspoon of tea between 18 of us, with each one straining lukewarm water through it into a cup. I made a terrible blunder the first day by innocently putting fresh tea into the strainer for my cup. Malawians are so kind and polite – nobody said anything.” Bennett found that local teachers were demoralised and frustrated, and that absenteeism was rife, mainly due to the fact that salaries were too low to support a family. Teachers were therefore often forced to take time off in order to earn extra money to feed their dependents. In addition, they were morally obliged to attend the frequent funerals and extended “condolence periods” for relatives and friends who had fallen victim to AIDS. “HIV/AIDS is taken so seriously that it is actually a core curriculum subject in schools. There is even a very explicit textbook. VSO training stressed the necessity for frankness and open discussion. I learned to set my natural reticence aside and discuss transmission and prevention. The rest of my team furnished me with a banana as a necessary teaching aid for demonstrating the use of a condom. I was confronted with alarming misinformation, such as “girls get rid of AIDS virus

when they menstruate” and “men can be cured by sleeping with a virgin.” When teachers did not turn up, the class was routinely ordered outside to cut the grass with lethal looking metre-long parangs under no apparent supervision. “The mere sight would give any school health and safety officer in the UK or the US a heart attack on the spot!” Despite their many problems, Bennett found that Malawians were irrepressibly cheerful and friendly. “I heard the word “Welcome” sung at me at least five times a day: Welcome to our school! Welcome to my house! Welcome to our country! I will never forget my first evening in the small teacher’s house which was assigned to me out in the bush five miles from Mzuzu. I had barely arrived when a procession of neighbours came to say “hello” and offer any help I might need. I went to bed that night knowing that I was going to be all right in a place where people were not too insular or inhibited to welcome a stranger so generously. I couldn’t help wondering how many Malawians arriving in a European country would receive such a warm welcome from their neighbours.” “My little house in the hills was a very simple African teacher’s house, which had both electricity (for three or four hours a day) and running water. I was luckier than many other volunteers who have to live with neither. The house had years of grime Wanted in Rome

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Humanitarian on the walls and a kitchen that was covered with grease from top to bottom from cooking on an open fire. I managed to find a painter, but I had to clean up first as he would happily have painted over everything, including the thick layer of black grease, spiders webs, wasp nests and so on.” VSO insisted that every volunteer hire a night watchman. “One night I got home late from a trip and I searched in vain for him. Eventually I located him, sprawling half naked, dead drunk and snoring loudly in my vegetable garden, stretched out on my newly planted lettuces.” “One thing I was not prepared for was the cold when winter arrived and the temperature went down to six degrees. No-one had told me I should take woolly vests and bedsocks. Of course, I had no heating and no hot water.” Bennett’s house was five kms out of Mzuzu, which involved a 05.30 rise in the morning and a long walk through woods and maize plantations to get to work in town and then back again at night. “I loved the morning walk, but in the evening, when I was tired, it could be excruciating. However, I would beg a lift from anybody going my way and I usually managed to get one. There was a taxi service, but it cost a whole two pounds – a fortune in Malawi - thus only to be used in emergencies.” “Little Mzuzu itself did not suffer from drought. In fact, it seemed to rain every day most of the day, with frequent mist in the mornings. It’s a fairly typical “developing country” town – dirty, scruffy,

With the inspection team at Nkhata Bay.

Wanted in Rome

noisy and frankly ugly but brimming over with life and warmth and good humour. Shopping was severely limited but sometimes I found unexpected treasures like a jar of Marmite or a tin of cocoa lurking behind the huge sacks of rice or maize. In the market you found stalls selling “first world” charity shop clothes at bargain prices. Fresh baked bread and butter came from South Africa as well as long-life milk. Malawi imports things like tomatoes and vegetables from Tanzania although the country itself has an ideal rainy climate, and huge areas of fertile land that could be cultivated. But no-one seems to have any idea to start a market garden here in north Malawi. They are used to receiving aid and they tend to get resentful when the donor demands certain standards.” Bennett’s job also involved regular marathon tours in rural areas with a team of seven colleagues (“authentic jewels every one”) from the inspection branch of the ministry of education. “On inspection days we were up at 04.45, with departure around 05.30 to arrive at the selected school in time for the start of lessons at 07.30. Conditions varied enormously. Many schools were in the remote areas, involving hours driving down bumpy dirt tracks in an old Landrover that needed oil every two hours and water every half hour. Some schools were in good brick buildings, others had thatched grass roofs, and some were simply an open space under a tree, surrounded by chickens, cows and guinea fowl. In some places children had to walk nine kms and back every day to get to school and in some

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remote schools pupils had to cook their own school lunch in a makeshift kitchen.”

the beach, where all helped to push the boat back into the water.”

“We visited some government boarding schools where the kids slept on the floor as they had no beds or mattresses but otherwise they weren’t too badly off. There were smaller classes and they actually had desks. We were also obliged to read the discipline reports. They included episodes of drunkenness, the odd pregnancy and stoning and eating a teacher’s chicken.”

During her stay, Bennett “adopted” several students. While primary school education is free for all, secondary education has to be paid for. The fees – equivalent to €12 per term – are way beyond what most families can afford “so people like me are approached for help.” University is an impossible dream for many bright youngsters who, without financial help, have no future beyond going back to subsistence living in their village.

“Students were usually very biddable, but when no-one listened to their grievances, they eventually lost patience. One year we had riots in four schools in the northern division and every time it turned out that the students were quite justified in their complaints. In one instant, the normally disgusting sanitary conditions in a boarding school became even more unacceptable when the whole system clogged up for lack of maintenance. In another case the teachers had stopped teaching, and in yet another, the teachers were stealing the pupils’ food. Easy to laugh, but with all teachers struggling to support several dependents one has to understand.”

After appealing to her old school in Rome, many Rome International School parents began to sponsor promising pupils and raise money to help children whose parents had died of AIDS. One particularly generous donation of €3,000 was used to build a much-needed community orphan care centre where small children could be fed and cared for during the day before returning at night to the extended families who were struggling to support them.

“One memorable trip took us far north to Karonga, the last town before the Tanzanian border. I travelled in the back of a pickup truck along with sacks of rice and other goods to be delivered to our destination. We drove through stunning mountain scenery alongside valleys and rivers, visiting 45 different schools. Teachers are keen to follow advice and secondary school students are almost always very attentive and well behaved and touchingly eager to learn, so organising participatory activities with 85 pupils is not as hard as it might seem.” “One school could only be reached by crossing Lake Malawi, involving a seven-hour journey in a small boat. The water was calm when we set off but half way through a wind blew up and the waves got higher and higher. We put on lifejackets and prepared ourselves for a long swim. The waves broke over the boat and we got soaked from head to toe – my colleagues in their smart suits and me in long skirt and jacket (no question of wearing trousers here). After an hour of terror the wind died down as quickly as it had begun. We finally arrived at our destination, the most bedraggled team of school inspectors you ever saw. Then we had a 30 minute climb along a rocky path to reach the school high above the village.We inspected the school for all of three hours. Finally, the whole village, including the headman, accompanied us back down the hill to 14

Wanted in Rome

Jill Bennett with her students.

On her return to Italy, Bennett set up a trust fund – the Malawi Orphan Care Trust Fund – to ensure a future for orphaned children and promising students, who would otherwise have no access to secondary or tertiary education. Anyone interested may contact Jill Bennett directly, ghbennett50@ yahoo.co.uk. Jill Bennett graduated from St Andrews University, Scotland. After some years teaching in Jamaica she moved with her family to Brunei where she founded the International School of Brunei. After her return to Europe, she was asked to found the Rome International School in 1988, which she built up and directed for 14 years.

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Language

WHEN ENGLISH MEETS ITALIAN FROM BACKUPPATO TO ZAPPING: ANGLICISMS AS LANGUAGE ENRICHMENT OR SELF-HARM? Martin Bennett

n these days of problematic foreign travel, one could take an alternative pleasure (or horror?) tour along the frontiers where English and Italian meet. And without having to move a centimetre. Take backuppato: Using the same term, a friend from Verona stopped my ever-shaky Italian comprehension in its tracks. “Scusami, un inutile anglicismo,” he explained, recalling an italicised category that peppered his father’s 1930s Palazzi dictionary. “Ah, backed up,” the penny dropped. We laughed. “Bruttissimo,” he added, as we puzzled over a spelling for this new entry, up

Photo: Radiokafka / Shutterstock.com.

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there with cliccatore, hackerato (mute ‘h’), sfriendare, zapping, zippati / compressed in form of a zip file. Not to mention followare, sharare, or zoomando. Back in the 1930s the main objection to the use of foreign words derived from the fascist regime’s disapproval of things mainly American. A decree went as far as banning anglicisms in shop signs and adverts; transgressors risked six months imprisonment. Indeed it was Cesare Pavese’s prowess as translator of Walt Whitman, of Edward Lee Masters’ Spoon River Anthology and Melville’s Moby Dick that first raised the authorities’ hackles, precipating events that would lead to Pavese’s internal exile. Linguists of the

Language disclosure”. Or this trans-lingual salad served up by Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera: “Ingorgo [traffic jam] di jet set internazionale a Porta S. Pancrazio, Berline di lusso, minivan con vetri oscurati, e bodyguard in smoking e auricolare [earphones], pronti a fare lo scudo [shield] per salvaguardare la privacy dei super VIP.’ Fast forward and covid-19’s “Boom in Contagi” is also partly linguistic, negative phenomena tending to generate foreign expressions: termoscanner, movida no mask, tamponi drive-in, barriera per i droplet, il contact tracing. As if the effects, couched in a different language, were more easily kept at bay. Further lexical distancing informs headlining “Incubo cluster” as focolaio gets pushed aside by sinister-sounding English intruder.

Photo: Norbertas / Shutterstock.com.

time, alarmed at forestierismi, conjured homegrown equivalents: barra not bar, balleria not dancing; more successfully, barrista not barman, autista not chauffeur, regista (film-director) not regisseur. In the last two, yes, the intruder is French, transalpine borrowings, from the Enlightenment on, being dominant. In 1945 63.7 per cent of loanwords were francesimi, only 21.4 per cent of them English, says one estimate. Come the 1950s, following the vectors of postwar commerce and technology, all that changed with a boom in (mostly American) anglicismi. Between 1980 and 2000 the rise was calculated at 163 per cent. Purists declare a crisis, echoing the 1930s cry of “Fuori i Barbari.” To combat this tsunami anglicus (a phrase coined by linguistics professor Tullio De Mauro) all-Italian alternatives this time include fubbia (fumo-nebbia); not smog as in alberi mangia-smog; vendistica not marketing; diapositiva not slide; allertatore civico not whistleblower; lavore agile not smart-working. “Smeralda, una vera smart city sul mare.” “Fontana, le chat e i camici.” “I zigzag dell’uomo forte di Minsk.” “Smalling: Pressing sullo United.” Once your attention has been grabbed by the headlines, below the large print it’s back to Italian; in the article itself anglicisms tail off. For example “5.3 milioni di euro scudati tramite voluntary

However purist qualms lift about the word “screening” on learning that it’s from Latin, once signifying the rood-screen of a church. Then there’s lockdown for confinamento. One possible justification is phonetic pungency; those two sharp monosyllables strike home whereas Italian’s expansively mellifluous five do not. Of course, borrowing can be reversed: “quarantine” reaches us via 15th-century Venetian quarantena, flu via Italy’s homonymous 1743 influenza epidemic. As in dumping, auditing and lo spread, a psycholinguistic element continues when discussing finance. Likewise in crime-reporting: the pages of Rome newspapers abound with le baby gang, operating now in Trastevere, now in EUR, male or in a recent instance female. Take Raid sul bus, due arrestati, confusingly pronounced “ride”. Anglicisms imply exclusion, a naming and shaming where crime is rendered so as to make it seem foreign even when committed locally: stalker, or le donne stalkerate da Weinstein; pusher for spacciatore; killer for sicario; whether of drugs or red tuna-fish, a broker for mediatore. Scarcely criminal, pub-crawl replaces escursione etilica. Fortunately muggers, outnumbered by more venial borseggiatori / bag-snatchers, have yet to enter Il Vocabolario. Unlike strozzini / usurers: the referent, bank-loan being near-impossible, remains unassailably Italian. Conversely, like l’ingresso walk-in at Italian tycoon Flavio Briatore’s nightclub Il Billionaire, anglicismi can confer status. At least when pronounced correctly. Lo smoking / tux duly Wanted in Rome

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Language donned, one might attend i dinner event, have uno o due personal trainer or un entourage, so anglicism doffs a forelock to once more glamorous French. Nonetheless, jetleg and working progress are counter-productive. Politicians adopt these socalled inglesorum with the gusto Boris Johnson deploys latinorum, bamboozling opponents with gobbets of Etonian Latin. Renzi’s Jobs Act, later Stepchild Adoption, Recovery Fund, il Welfare: all play away; Italian citizens sign petitions insisting the home language would be preferable. Words for prestige then, but also as smokescreen. Guidelines from Italy’s education ministry feature flipped classroom, know-how, future labs, team dei docenti. (cf. Giacomo Pepi’s “L’antilingua dove il verbo insegnare non c’è”, La Repubblica, 25 August 2020.) With milioni di follower, last and most come gli influencer – type of swimsuit (or trunks) and well-honed body making up for any lack of ideas. Roll over Maria Montessori or Emily Pankhurst, last century’s movers-andshakers. Lexically the next happy-stamping ground is sport. To describe Serie A’s ageing centreforwards, bomber nonni has an assonance which “grandad strikers” lacks. After the national team’s World Cup wins in the 1930s, anglicisimi were purged. Yet il calcio (from Latin calx / heel) entertained Renaissance Florence; classical Roman friezes field footballing legionnaires. Ever since the transfer-market went international, anglicismi have made a partial comeback. Regarding usage, for the latest state of play here are some half-time results: Italian 1–Anglicismi 0 for calcio – not football or kick; portiere – not goalkeeper; stopper – not central defender; rimessa laterale – not throw-in; fallo – not foul; rigore – not penalty; traversa – not crossbar; palo – not post; parata – not save. And aways? Anglicismi 1–Italian 0 for ‘cross’ or crossato – not attraversare; dribblare – never sbavare, cf. “Virginia Raggi dribbla i giornalisti.” Italian 1–Anglicismi 1 for rete and/ or gol, commentaries deploying an operatically long ‘o’; calcio d’angolo and/or corner; fuori gioco and/or d-less off si…’ Beyond the pitch, draws include badante – carer; bufale – fake news; passatempo – hobby; tessera – badge, pronounced bedge. 18

Wanted in Rome

Photo: Nicoletta zanella / Shutterstock.com.

Elsewhere in the sporting arena word-parts go missing, truncation signalling change in ownership. For example, basket for basketball. Some words alter completely; jogging becomes footing; cycling’s rush finale, by inter-lingual gear-shift, is sprint to the line. Tennis’s ace, lob, smash help commentators keep up during high-speed rallies, replacing Italian’s polysyllables left floundering however many points behind. “Game, set, match” to Pragmatics. Arguments for or against loanwords are ancient. A first century BC tract on rhetoric intones Novum verbum novitate offendet / New words offend by their very newness. Or perhaps not? Finally does it matter either way? Dante at one bookend, six Nobel laureates for literature at the other, surely Italian can look after itself. Meanwhile anglicisms which stick do so presumably for a reason. “Flirt” outmatches breve relazione amorosa. “Boom” is more dramatically succinct than periodo di intenso sviluppo economico – and in relation to current covid-19 cases. “Sit-in” acts as a minizip file for raduno di dimostranti che, stando seduti per terra, occupano un luogo pubblico (Zanichelli). David Crystal’s The Stories of English painstakingly puts Shakespeare’s coinages at 2,035 – largely from Latin or Italian, the foreign language then in vogue. Drearily monosyllabic Middle English was given another lease of life; variation of short words with long anticipates the plays’ ingeniously alternating registers of sound and sense. To second Andrea Marcolongo, “A language changes or rather mutates, because it’s alive, anchored in its speakers’ everyday experience.” Varying long words with short, could anglicismi also prove a blessing in disguise? The jury is still out.

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Education

INTERVIEW WITH HEAD OF ST THOMAS'S INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL IN VITERBO WANTED IN ROME TALKS TO ISAAC DRIVER, PRINCIPAL OF ST THOMAS'S INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL IN VITERBO, NORTH OF ROME Marco Venturini WIR: In your opinion, what is the biggest challenge facing educational institutions during this academic year? ID: Socially and emotionally educators must focus on the mental health and well-being of the students and families. Logistically, intermittent quarantines for teachers and students could cause

St Thomas's International School in Viterbo.

Wanted in Rome

inconsistent learning and teaching. Academically, it is a challenge to sustain socially constructivist pedagogy where interaction and communication through collaboration is essential. However, these challenges will always spawn new ideas and skills. Communication with parents will remain absolutely critical to the success of learning and teaching.

Education Could you give us some insights on the international community in Viterbo and the surrounding area? There are many expats north of Rome around Viterbo, Montefiscone, Orvieto, Orte, Amelia and Terni. There are also many international families with vacation homes in the area. Recently, I have had conversations with parents living in metropolitan cities across Europe who now have greater opportunities to work remotely and would like to live in a more natural environment. Consequently, they are seeking to move to more rural areas such as Viterbo and would like an international education for their children. Along with international students do you also host Italian pupils? In the past, international schools across the world were predominantly created to provide a consistent curriculum for transient international families. However, many schools around the world now seek internationalism not just through their demographics but through their internationallyminded local to global curriculum. Diversity in the school community doesn’t automatically create an internationally-minded school. Ultimately our aim in all international schools is to educate internationally-minded young people. Due to the covid-19 pandemic, there has been an increase in people moving from big cities to smaller centres in the countryside. Have you seen an increase in enrollments? I can’t substantiate a claim that people are leaving the cities but I have met and heard of people moving away from big cities and into the countryside. The difficult experiences that people endured during strict city lockdowns and also because companies are more open to employees working remotely appear to be major reasons for this potential trend. Viterbo also hosts a fast-growing Italian university, l’Università della Tuscia. Do you have any shared programmes with the university and if not do you have plans to develop such initiatives? We continue to provide and improve upon a rigorous academic and holistic programme that is internationally-minded, conceptual, inquirydriven and skills based. We will be applying to become the first school serving northern Lazio, southern Tuscany and Umbria authorised to deliver the International

Isaac Driver leads St Thomas's International School staff in a professional development workshop.

Baccalaureate primary years programme for children from 3 - 11 years old. As part of this application we will be strengthening our professional relationship with our prestigious sister school in Rome, Ambrit International School. We will also always be seeking partnerships with other educational communities both locally and globally. On a personal note, what are the advantages and drawbacks of living in a small community compared to larger urban areas such as Rome? I lived in Prati from 2005 to 2007 and I love Rome. It is vibrant, tasty and historic. It stimulates all the senses and a spectrum of positive and negative emotions. I have visited Rome every year since I left because I have a house in Umbria. I have lived in small, medium and huge metropolitan areas such as London, Manchester, Dusseldorf, Osaka and Singapore. In the area of Viterbo there are all the things you expect such as great natural beauty with the lakes and countryside, proximity to the coastline, mediaeval cities and Italian culture. What I notice now is that the standard of accommodation and restaurant food has improved and is closer to what cities offer. For me, it feels healthier to live in a more rural area but regularly spending quality time and money visiting the shops, restaurants, bars, museums, churches, theatres and parks of Rome which is easy to do. St. Thomas’s was founded in 2010 and has 100 students from Early Childhood to Grade 8. Its average class size is 13 with a student/teacher ratio of 5:1. Isaac Driver is English and trained as a primary school teacher in London. In 2005 he embarked on an international teaching career, first in Italy, then Germany, Japan and Singapore before returning to Italy. He also works as an IB workshop leader and school visitor for the International Baccalaureate. St Thomas’s International School Via S. Giovanni Decollato 1 - 01100 Viterbo tel. 07611767857 - www.stthomass.com.

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 3

Fashion lovers can’t miss the RoMaison Exhibit at the Ara Pacis Museum.

Treat yourself to a relaxing breakfast at Babington’s Tea Rooms.

Immerse yourself in natural beauty at the Botanic Gardens in Trastevere.

Pick up a pumpkin and prepare a tasty risotto with gorgonzola. See recipe page 57.

Order-in some cosy and delicious ramen from QQ Ramen & BBQ in Trastevere.

Travel back in time to the Etruscan town of Cerveteri, a worthwhile day trip from Rome.

Tour the Colosseum minus the crowds.

Book a visit to the Chiostro del Bramante to see the unique Banksy exhibit.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

For a simple brunch with a friend try Marigold Restaurant & Micro Bakery in Ostiense.

Book a visit to the Palatine Hill and have it more or less to yourself.

Check out the newlyrestored Fountain of Frogs in Coppedè.

For reasonably priced pecan nuts for a tasty pie, head to Emporio delle Spezie in Testaccio.

Visit the mediaeval clifftop village of Calcata and support the local craft shops.

Take a tour of the fountains of Rome.

30 Visit the Non-Catholic Cemetery, one of Rome's most evocative places.

19 Visit the cat sanctuary at Largo Argentina – volunteers are looking for old newspapers.

Plan a Thanksgiving excursion to Ostia Antica, a great family trip!

Photo by Moshe Schneider on Unsplash

November Fri Sat Sun 2020 1

Enjoy the All Saint’s Day holiday with a view from Pincio in Villa Borghese.

Galleria Borghese stays open until 22.00 tonight.

Be inspired by the photographs of Giovanni Gastel at MAXXI.

Find seasonal organic fruits and veggies, like sweet potatoes, at your local NaturaSì.

Bring your kids to Take a walk through the support Rome’s Bioparco lesser-visited Villa Sciarra Zoo in Villa Borghese. on the Janiculum.

Immerse yourself in the world of Caravaggio with the Capitoline Museum show.

20 Be blown away by the masterpieces in Palazzo Barberini.

27 Get some fresh air at Rome's largest park, Villa Pamphilj.

Take a walk back in time along the Appian Way.

Gucci, the main partner of the 2020 Quadrenniale d’Arte 2020, offers free admission to FUORI! at Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

22 It’s the last day to see Shepard Fairey: 3 Decades of Dissent at Galleria d’Arte Moderna.

29 Book a visit to see the legendary Torlonia Marbles at the Capitoline Museums.

LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome

LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

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Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

Medicine

Wanted in Rome

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ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

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Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far

from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

Wanted in Rome

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it.

museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

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ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

S Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

tudy abroad or earn your degree in Rome

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

All classes in English Scholarships availableGiorgio de Chirico House Museum MATTATOIO MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Accepting applications Fall 2020 Museofor di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

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MAXXI amazes you, ROME'S MAJOR always art

architecture MUSEUMS design photography cinema Crypta Balbi

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

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Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Museo Napoleonico

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PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES 1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome

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Join us on Your Journey

L L NG OO OO NI CH AR CH M S S LE H RA Y -5 RY IG RL 2 TA OG H S EA E EN -11 D PR AG EM 6 AN IB 8 S EL E LE -1 NG 2 AG IDD S 11 DI - 1 IES RK AN 11 SIT WO M E R T AG TST ES D VE NE OU A NI L GR P U BA O TO GL A

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where to go in Rome

WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON

Banksy at Rome's Chiostro del Bramante, see page 42 for details. Wanted in Rome

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EXHIBITIONS Italy has ordered the closure of theatres and cinemas however Rome’s museums and galleries remain open, with strict measures in place to curb the spread of covid-19. Advance booking and the wearing of masks is obligatory. The absence of tourists means it is possible to enjoy Rome’s crowd-free museums and exhibitions.

DOMENICO BIANCHI 11 NOV-30 JAN

Roman artist Domenico Bianchi shows new large-scale works, made using wax and cherry wood, and a group of watercolours on paper, in a solo exhibition at the Lorcan O’Neill Gallery. Bianchi is known for the recurrent use of biomorphic signs in his works, and for the use of materials that interact with light, such as precious metals, fibreglass and polished wood. Using an ancient Roman technique, rediscovered in the 1950s by Jasper Johns, Bianchi manipulates wax as if it were paint. Over the course of his 40-year career, the Rome-based artist collaborated with some of the most important figures of the Arte Povera movement including Jannis Kounellis, Mario and Marisa Merz, and Michelangelo Pistoletto. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

QUADRIENNALE DI ROMA 30 OCT-17 JAN

The 2020 Quadriennale di Roma, a major showcase of contemporary Italian art in the capital, continues a tradition begun in Rome in 1931. The 17th edition of the art fair, which will feature the work of 43 artists in an exhibition that promises to offer an “unprecedented perspective” on Italian art, will occupy both floors of Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Quadriennale president Umberto Croppi said that the event – curated by Sarah Cosulich and Stefano Collicelli Cagol, with the support

The Istituto Centrale per la Grafica celebrates 300 years of Piranesi.

of the Italian culture ministry – will act as a grand revival for Italian contemporary art. For full details including the participating artists see Quadriennale di Roma website, www.quadriennalediroma. org. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www. palazzoesposizioni.it.

PIRANESI: SOGNARE IL SOGNO IMPOSSIBLE 15 OCT-31 JAN

Piranesi, the master engraver, printmaker and architect celebrated for his meticulously detailed etchings of Rome, is the focus of an exhibition at Palazzo Poli at the Trevi Fountain. The Istituto Centrale per la Grafica marks the 300th anniversary of the birth of Giovanni Battista Piranesi, who was born near Venice on 4 October 1720. Piranesi drew on his background in architecture, engineering and stage design to create masterful engravings noted for their architectural detail, dramatic lighting and sense of realism. Piranesi believed passionately in the artist’s right to indulge in creative licence, using a fertile imagination in his work in a continuation of the capriccio or architectural fancy developed during the Renaissance. The printmaker bent the rules

Wanted in Rome

by manipulating perspective and exaggerating the scale of buildings, merging them seductively with overgrown romantic ruins in an almost dream-like utopia. Piranesi’s prints of palaces, churches and monumental ruins were highly sought after, particularly as prized souvenirs by Rome’s Grand Tourists, and he earned fame and fortune in his own lifetime. His reputation was sealed by his remarkable sequential print series: Le Vedute di Roma (174678), Grotteschi (1747-9) and Carceri (1749-50). He is also remembered for this lofty quotation “I need to produce great ideas, and I believe that if I were commissioned to design a new universe, I would be mad enough to undertake it.” Enitled Giambattista Piranesi: Dreaming the Impossible Dream, the exhibition comprises 50 works created by Piranesi and his workshop over a period of 30 years. The show is divided into the following sections: I Capricci e le Carceri, fantastic architecture of the first period; The Roman Antiquities and the Campo Marzio; Views of Rome and its surroundings; Piranesi designer: Camini, Vasi e Candelabri. For visiting times see website. Istituto Centrale per la Grafica, Via della Stamperia 6, tel. 06699801, www.grafica.beniculturali.it.

THE TORLONIA MARBLES: COLLECTING MASTERPIECES 14 OCT-29 JUNE

The legendary Torlonia Collection, considered by many as the world’s most important private collection of ancient Greek and Roman marble sculptures, has at long last gone on public display in Rome. Villa Caffarelli at the city’s Capitoline Museums displays 92 pieces from the priceless collection of 620 Greek and Roman ancient works. The revered “collection of collections”, which comprises marble, bronze and alabaster statues, busts, basreliefs and sarcophagi dating to the ancient Greek and Roman era – amassed between the 15th- and 19th centuries – comes to light after being largely hidden away for 70 years. Prince Alesssandro Torlonia dismantled the museum in the 1970s, putting the works into storage in Villa Albani. It was not until 2016 that he came to an agreement with the state about showing them again, but then died a year later, leaving the Torlonia Foundation to organise the exhibition. The works on display have been restored in a project financed by luxury jeweller Bulgari. For exhibition details check Musei Capitolini website. See Art News page XX. Capitoline Museums, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org.

ANNA DI PAOLA: MISERO BLU 1 OCT-28 NOV

Maja Arte Contemporanea presents the first solo exhibition by Anna Di Paola, a young artist from Italy’s Molise region. Di Paola uses cyanotype to make 15 portraits – timeless and mysterious – emerge out of a Prussian blue print, evoking analogous images from Picasso’s Blue Period. “Choosing to initiate a dialogue with Pablo Picasso is a bold and brave act on behalf of any young artist: the latter runs the risk of being crushed under the weight of the master’s unparalleled celebrity or to fall prey to the conventional vices of Picassisms, so common in the 1950s” – writes critic Lorenzo Canova – “And yet, Anna Di Paola dared do so and conquered the challenge she set for herself.” For

Rome's Capitoline Museums show treasures from the Torlonia Collection.

opening times see gallery website. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

MONEY GO ROUND 26 SEPT-14 NOV

This exhibition at Galleria Rosso20sette displays 140 works made using banknotes from around the world. Curated by Edoardo Marcenaro, the show features the work of 32 Italian and international artists, including Rome street artists Diamond, Diavù, Lucamaleonte and Maupal. Rosso20sette arte contemporanea, Via del Sudario 39, tel. 0664761113, www.rosso27.com.

ISAAC JULIEN. LINA BO BARDI UN MERAVIGLIOSO GROVIGLIO 23 SEPT-17 JAN

MAXXI hosts a tribute by the English artist and filmmaker Isaac Julien to the great Italian-Brazilian architect Lina Bo Bardi who died in São Paulo in 1992. The nine-channel video installation is accompanied by a photographic series, filmed in several locations in Brazil, and the title is inspired by a quotation from a letter written by Bo Bardi: “Time is not linear, it is a marvellous tangle in which, at any moment, ends can be chosen and solutions invented, without beginning or end.” Born in Rome in 1914, Bo Bardi was a

Misero Blu by Anna Di Paola at Maja Arte Contemporanea.

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Wanted in Rome

prolific architect and designer who devoted her working life, most of it spent in Brazil, to promoting the social and cultural potential of architecture and design. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

SHEPARD FAIREY: 3 DECADES OF DISSENT 17 SEPT-22 NOV

Rome’s municipal gallery of modern art on Via Crispi dedicates a show to the celebrated American graphic artist and social activist Shepard Fairey, better known as Obey. The city describes the show as an “exclusive exhibition project” curated by the artist who shot to international fame in 2008 with his Hope poster of Barack Obama. The exhibition features works created over the last 30 years by the urban artist whose style is defined as “political, bold and iconic.” Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

STEN LEX: RINASCITA 17 SEPT-22 NOV

The cloister of Rome’s municipal gallery of modern art houses a display of large-scale works as well as a site-specific installation by the urban art duo Sten Lex known for stencilling giant abstract faces in outside spaces in cities around the world. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

ALBERTO SORDI 1920-2020 16 SEPT-31 JAN

Rome hosts an exhibition dedicated to the life and career of the muchloved Roman actor Alberto Sordi (1920-2003) at his former residence near the Baths of Caracalla. The multimedia show takes place in various rooms of Sordi’s private villa, which has never been open to the public before. The exhibition also highlights the private side to Sordi who is best remembered for his roles in films such as Un americano a Roma, Il Marchese del Grillo, Il Vigile and I Vitelloni. In addition to being an actor, Sordi was a singer, voice actor, director and screenwriter. During his 60year career, he played mainly comic roles, enlivened by his trademark Roman accent. When Sordi died in 2003 more than 250,000 people attending his funeral in S. Giovanni. Rome subsequently renamed the prestigious Galleria Colonna, on Via del Corso, in honour of one of its

Barack Obama by Giovanni Gastel at MAXXI.

favourite sons. Villa Sordi, Piazzale Numa Pompilio. For visiting times see city culture website, www.060608.it.

Accademia Aracne in Back to nature. Arte Contemporanea a Villa Borghese.

BACK TO NATURE: ARTE CONTEMPORANEA A VILLA BORGHESE 15 SEPT-13 DEC

Rome’s Villa Borghese park is home to a free outdoor exhibition project this autumn, titled Back to Nature, curated by Costantino D’Orazio. The park is hosting a nucleus of outdoor installations, designed or specially reinvented for the occasion by artists such as Andreco, Mario Merz, Mimmo Paladino, Benedetto Pietromarchi, Davide Rivalta, Grazia Toderi, Edoardo Tresoldi and Nico Vascellari. In addition there will be musical performances and projects by street artists. Casina dell’Orologio - Piazza di Siena, Villa Borghese. Wanted in Rome

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Raphael’s fresco Sibille e Angeli from a window of the first floor of the Chiostro. It was commissioned in 1515 as part of the decoration of the adjoining Basilica di S. Maria della Pace. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

PER GIOCO

25 JULY-10 JAN

Happy Choppers by Banksy at Chiostro del Bramante.

GIOVANNI GASTEL: THE PEOPLE I LIKE 15 SEPT-24 NOV

MAXXI dedicates an exhibition to Milan photographer Giovanni Gastel, showcasing more than 200 portraits of famous people he met over the course of his 40-year career. The show features more than 200 of Gastel’s “soul portraits” of personalities from the world of culture, art, fashion, music, entertainment, sport and politics, from Barack Obama to Bebe Vio, Monica Bellucci to Vasco Rossi. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www. maxxi.art.

BANSKY: A VISUAL PROTEST 8 SEPT-11 APRIL

Banksy, the anonymous British street artist, is the subject of an

exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. The show features around 80 works by Banksy – known for his powerful, satirical and thoughtprovoking murals – touching on themes close to the artist’s heart: war, wealth, poverty, animals, globalisation, consumerism, politics, power and the environment. The exhibited works, created between 2001 and 2017, include well known images such as Love is in the Air, Girl with Balloon, Queen Vic, Napalm, Toxic Mary, HMV, as well as the designs for the book Wall & Piece and projects for vinyl and CD covers. The exhibition will offer an insight into the mysterious world of Banksy, documenting the techniques used in his works as well as his hard-hitting themes. Visitors will also have the chance to admire

Wanted in Rome

Rome displays an exhibition of vintage toys, including doll houses, cars, trains, spinning tops, magic lanterns, clowns and music boxes at the Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi. Under its full title Per Gioco. La collezione dei giocattoli antichi della Sovrintendenza Capitolina the exhibition focuses on the collection of vintage toys acquired in recent years by the city. The objects on show were procured mainly between 1860 and 1930, during the so-called “golden age” of toys. They include castles with toy soldiers, farms with animals, magic lanterns, sledges, planes and gliders, marbles, kites and rocking horses. Highlights include a royal doll house that once belonged to the Queen of Sweden, dating from the late 1600s, and two pre-Inca dolls from the 14th-15th centuries, one of which depicts a mother with her son in her arms. Advance reservations are recommended – tel. 060608 – and visitors must wear masks. Museo di Roma, Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

IL TEMPO DI CARAVAGGIO 16 JUNE-10 JAN

Rome pays tribute to Caravaggio with a new exhibition at Palazzo Caffarelli, part of the Capitoline Museums. The show is centred around Caravaggio’s Boy Bitten by a Lizard, along with 40 works by the artists influenced by the master’s work in the 17th century. The paintings come from the collection of Roberto Longhi, one of the leading Italian art critics of the past century, on the 50th anniversary of his death. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www. museicapitolini.org. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

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Settled in Italy? Apply for residency now and obtain your Withdrawal Agreement document Make sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re registered for healthcare Exchange your UK driving licence for a local one Check your passport validity online and renew it now if you need to Find out more at gov.uk/livinginitaly 44

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CLASSICAL

Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia meets the constantly evolving challenges posed by covid-19.

Accademia S. Cecilia in the age of covid-19 Like many other performing arts institutions around the world, Rome’s illustrious Orchestra e Coro dell’Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia shut down in early March 2020, cancelling the remainder of the season’s concerts. Live performances resumed in July, with a complete cycle of the Beethoven symphonies conducted by music director Antonio Pappano, in the open air amphitheatre of the Parco della Musica. Resuming performances indoors during a pandemic was a more difficult challenge, but S. Cecilia brilliantly managed to shape the 2020-2021 symphonic and chamber music seasons, to be held in Renzo Piano’s vast Sala Santa Cecilia. Programmes were planned without intermissions, proper distancing was observed in assigning seats to subscribers, and masks were to be worn by the audience throughout each performance. The renowned S. Cecilia chorus performs frequently each season, giving the institution one of its most defining characteristics. This season

opened on 16 October with Bruckner’s Te Deum, paired with Mahler’s Das Lied von der Erde, again conducted by Pappano. For Bruckner’s work—“splendid and powerful” in the words of Mahler himself—the chorus of some 80 voices was spaced across the entire gallery behind the orchestra, a distancing arrangement which in no measure undermined the unity of the performance. The enthusiastic response of the audience acknowledged the quality of the concert but also felt like a communal celebration of the return to live classical music performance in Rome. Alas, by the next week, a member of the chorus had tested positive for covid-19, the entire chorus had gone into quarantine, and the second symphonic programme of the season was hastily and skillfully modified to replace the scheduled choral works with other pieces. Another brilliant concert, reinvented in part at the last minute, reminded us of the Italian genius for improvisation and quick problem solving in an emergency. On 25 Oct, the latest governmental covid-19 decree to manage the pandemic closed down theatres, cinemas and concert halls all over Italy, until at least 24 November. Voices of

protest from prominent cultural figures were heard immediately, underlining the careful attention to safety protocols demonstrated by these institutions and calling into question the utility of their closure. At this stage, it seems impossible to predict when these crucial parts of our cultural life might resume. Looking ahead in the impressive season of S. Cecilia, two great choral works are scheduled in the coming weeks—Brahms’s Ein Deutsches Requiem in late November and Bach’s Christmas Oratory in mid-December. We can only hope that the course of the pandemic will improve, allowing these works to be performed and heard, together with the many other fine offerings S. Cecilia has announced. In conclusion, we might recall that S. Cecilia herself, a Roman martyred saint of the third century, demonstrated great courage and tenacity in those distant times. As the European patroness of music for centuries, she witnessed many vicissitudes. Perhaps she can help us emerge from the present crisis. Jeffrey Blanchard Wanted in Rome

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ART NEWS How a forgotten Roman palace near the Colosseum could become the new Torlonia Museum

Domus Aventino

Rome unveils remains of Roman villa hidden for 2,000 years on the Aventine Hill

Archaeologists in Rome have presented the remains of a magnificent Roman villa, or domus, buried for almost 2,000 years under an apartment block at the foot of the Aventine Hill. The spectacular discovery was made in 2014 during works to earthquake-proof the foundations of the 1950s-era building in Piazza Albania, not far from the Circus Maximus. Archaeologists found a series of large rooms decorated with sumptuous mosaics and traces of frescoes as well as objects from everyday Roman life such as fragments of bowls and amphorae, a hammer, a nail, kitchen ladles, sewing needles and oil lamps. They also found the remains of a stone tower dating from the sixth century BC. After several years of excavations below ground, and construction work above to convert the development into 180 luxury apartments, the residential complex now boasts its own underground museum. The €3 million dig, overseen by the special superintendency of Rome, was funded by the property’s owners, BNP Paribas Real Estate, in what is being hailed as a virtuous example of public and private collaboration. “Rome never ceases to astound us,” said Daniela Porro, the capital’s chief archaeologist, describing the new museum as an “archaeological box” of treasure. Based on the richness of decoration, archaeologists believe that the domus belonged to a “person of power.” The underground museum is due to open to the public for two days a month, by reservation, later this year. The visit will be enhanced thanks to the video projections, lights, sounds and historical narration by the celebrated duo of scientific presenters Piero Angela and Paco Lanciano, bringing the ancient villa to life once more. For booking information contact www. domusaventino.it.

Wanted in Rome

An abandoned Renaissance palace near the Colosseum could become the permanent home to one of the world’s most important private collections of Greek-Roman classical sculptures. The idea was announced by Italy’s culture minister Dario Franceschini during the press conference for the launch of The Torlonia Marbles: Collecting Masterpieces at the Capitoline Museums last month. “The state is ready to make available places and resources to create a great Torlonia Museum in the most prestigious locations,” said Franceschini. One such venue, the minister suggested, is Palazzo SilvestriRivaldi. Situated just off Via dei Fori Imperiali, opposite the Roman Forum, the palace is currently undergoing a €40 million restoration financed by the culture ministry. Designed by Sangallo the Younger, the 16th-century palazzo contains faded mythological frescoes, precious floors and coffered ceilings, hidden by scaffolding, mould and weeds. The palace has lain in a state of neglect for four decades and in recent years has been surrounded by construction works for Rome’s Metro C subway project. Before being abandoned completely, the building was occupied illegally by various social protest movements from 1975 onwards, the same year that the former Torlonia Museum closed its doors for good on the other side of the Tiber. The rarely-opened museum, founded a century earlier in 1875, housed the priceless marbles until they went into storage in another Torlonia palace, Villa Albani, in whose basement they were held until the autumn of this year. Following an agreement reached between the culture ministry and the Torlonia Foundation in 2016, part of the priceless collection is now on public display in Rome at the Capitoline Museums. When the blockbuster exhibition comes to an end, on 29 June 2021, the agreement is that it will embark on a world tour but this has been postponed for the time being. But where the whole collection of marbles (some 620 ancient Greek and Roman works) will finally be housed is the million-dollar question. For now at least we have one potential venue for the future Torlonia Museum, in what could perhaps be a perfect marriage between the legendary collection and the abandoned palace. Andy Devane

Palazzo Silvestri-Rivaldi. Photo AgCult.

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Direzione Generale

SPETTACOLO

lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome. All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

MUSIC THEATR CINEMA VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 Barberini, Piazza 0686391361

Barberini

24-26,

tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Wanted in Rome

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ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in 51 |Rome Oct 2018

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WANTED junior inROME AOSR Middle School Play Sunmin, in Year 7 at the American Overseas School of Rome, learned that balancing school work with extracurricular activities – and stepping out of her comfort zone – was a rewarding experience. This is how life works, always has and always will; you make decisions that create paths that lead you to the events that slowly, bit by bit, make up your life. The decisions you choose to make fall into two categories. There are small decisions, and big decisions, minor and major ones, not- so-important, and fairly important choices. Often you are obligated to make those decisions, and the burden of deciding falls upon your shoulders, and also very often, you don’t know how to react. The consequences may be life-changing, like moving to a new city, or they might be less extreme, like having to choose between two books in a

Wanted in Rome

bookshop that you equally like. Other times, decisions are your choice, and are not obligatory, but can also change your life and how you view it. Joining the annual AOSR Middle School Play was something that I’d never contemplated doing. Sure, I’d been in a couple of plays during primary school, starred in some, had a minor role in others, and enjoyed them all greatly. I loved acting, but it wasn’t something that I necessarily wanted to dedicate myself to in middle school, especially in the first year when everything was all big and intimidating. Choosing to

audition for Amy’s Attic came as a surprise for me, even though it was my own decision to do so in the first place. In the past, there was always something going on or coming up, like the big French test, the important math quiz, tennis practice, or homework. I ultimately decided to take part in the play just for the fun of it. It would do no harm, could possibly do some good, and a number of my friends were auditioning as well. I decided to read all the Shakespeare I could find and ended up reading approximately five lines that I couldn’t comprehend before vanishing all dreams of becoming a Shakespearean actress by nodding off to sleep. So, I read a few books, which was and still is my favorite pastime, and started to imitate the voices of the main characters. This was something I did when I was no older than six years old and resulted in me blushing furiously and losing my concentration. So, I just told myself that I would do my best to read the script loudly and gesture wildly and animatedly. That, I convinced myself, would be enough. The day of the audition arrived. I constantly worried about a non-existent sore throat and tried calculating the probability of getting a raspy voice by the time the audition rolled around. I never really got to figuring it out, but I’d say that the chances were very, very low. Auditions were held in the drama cube, a warm cozy space, and we were all given several packets of paper that were each bound together with a single staple. We were assigned random roles from different scenes and had a few minutes to rehearse, either in the cube or outside. Being a rather big fan of the cold weather, I persuaded my group to rehearse outside, and we started to read from the script (with me half reading and half gesturing wildly). I’d been nervous from the moment I’d entered the drama cube but started to enjoy the script reading and started to feel exhilarated, some credits to the cold. We performed bits of the script to Ms. Sanders (the drama teacher of 2019-2020) and a senior student, Jessica. I decided that if I were to do something, I would put my best into it, because why not? Reading the script with my friends and acting out the scenes made me realize how fun joining the play could be, and the opportunities it could bring! The play was apparently about a young girl, Amy Anderson, who found a magic trunk in her grandmother’s attic, and being a quite inquisitive (and stubborn!) girl, she opens it only to find supernatural powers that allow traveling between different worlds

or dimensions. She goes to different worlds and finds that a very ruthless, spiteful magician has trapped members of his circus there, and thus conflict has risen between the characters. They now have no audience, and nothing to do, for the worlds that they are put in are “black holes”. Amy then finds a way to outsmart the evil magician with help from her magical powers and new friends and helps the circus members find an adequate audience again. So, as I promised myself before, when the time to perform came, I gestured wildly, flailing my arms and crashing down to the ground when imaginary spells were cast at me, my voice loud and pretty high. All that ducking made me realize what the world looks like from such a low perspective. Interesting. I played many different roles, everyone switched roles from now and then, but I particularly favored playing the spunky young girl, Amy. She was curious, stubborn, empathetic and had a lot of fortitude. Oh, and she liked cookies, which was a plus. Amy also came up with great rhymes that cast the protagonist’s evilness away. She would have been a great feminist. After everyone got a chance to perform in different groups, we all wrote down what role we wanted to play. I wrote down Amy, of course. By then, I had fallen in love with that girl. After a few days, a number of people were sent back to do callbacks, which included me. So, I did exactly what I did a few days ago. Being as dramatic as I could. Only this time I was a tad more confident and knew what I was supposed to do. The cast list was sent a few weeks later. When I got the news that I got Amy, I shivered excitedly and had that weird but awesome flipping feeling in my stomach. The cast list was full of my friends and other really cool people that I’d met at the auditions, and I honestly couldn’t wait to work with them. So, I guess what I mean by all of this is that taking risks and making decisions that you wouldn’t usually make (good ones, of course) is something that will most likely be extremely beneficial and can become something that you’re proud of. Stepping out of your comfort zone is something that can be really hard, but then, nothing in life is really easy, is it? American Overseas School of Rome (AOSR), Via Cassia 811, tel. 06334381, www.aosr.org.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations. Teachers who would like to propose a project can contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

An Education for Life

Castelli International School

www.castelli-international.it

Wanted in Rome

By Kate

Zagors

PUMPKIN RISOTTO WITH GORGONZOLA Pumpkin is the obvious choice for a perfect Halloween-themed recipe. This time of year sees the versatile orange flesh used throughout Rome for a wide array of savoury dishes, pizza toppings and sweet pies and tarts. This recipe uses a creamy pumpkin purée, infused with a slight hint of sage, with spicy kick of gorgonzola to create a hearty risotto, ideal for the colder autumn nights. Although here used with rice, the pumpkin purée could also be used as the base of pumpkin soup (just add vegetable stock) or combined with crunchy guanciale or pancetta for a great pasta dish.

Ingredients (For 4 people)

10 fresh sage leaves 700g pumpkin Extra virgin olive oil 1 red onion, chopped 60g butter 6 small (espresso) cups of Arborio rice 100ml white wine 1 litre vegetable stock 100g gorgonzola piccante, cut into cubes First tie the sage leaves together with kitchen string. Remove any rind from the pumpkin and cut the flesh into 2cm cubes. Heat about 5 tablespoons of olive oil in a large pan and add the chopped onion, pumpkin and sage. Season with salt and pepper and cook on a low-medium heat until the pumpkin is soft and falling apart (about 25-30 minutes). Then remove the bunch of sage leaves and blend the pumpkin into a smooth, creamy purée. In a separate saucepan, melt the butter with a tablespoon of olive oil and add the rice. Season with salt and toast for 3-4 minutes. Add the white wine and cook until the alcohol evaporates. Pour in enough pumpkin to cover the rice, add ladle of vegetable stock and continue to cook on a medium heat, stirring continuously. When the rice has absorbed almost all of the liquid add the rest of the pumpkin and continue cook, stirring all the time and adding more stock when necessary, until the rice is al dente, about 15-20 minutes. Turn off the heat and add the gorgonzola, stirring well to melt it into the sauce. Serve immediately. Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Rome From breakfast to dinner, from bistros to restaurants, the choice for veggies and vegans in Rome is ever wider. You can enjoy delicious dishes that don’t skimp on flavour or cause any harm to animals. SO WHAT?!? The dishes at this totally vegan restaurant in Pigneto recreate traditional recipes (there being a particular focus on zero km and organic products). So it’s not just spoonfuls of veloutés and salads here, you can enjoy starters such as gluten-free fettuccine with ragu and pesto gnocchi with sage and cashews (€8.50), to mains such as zuccotto made with lentils in the Mediterranean style (€8.50) and desserts such as tofu cake with blueberries and ginger (€5). ROMEOW CAT BISTRO The cooking at this bistro that’s seemingly half run by cats (the eatery’s permanent residents), is entirely vegan, taking inspiration from Indian and Mexican cuisine, while also serving a menu of raw food. You can enjoy muffins, brownies and raw cakes for breakfast, for lunch and dinner there’s troccolo (thick spaghetti) with wild asparagus, a light turmeric cream and asparagus chips. LA CAPRA CAMPA One of Rome’s best known vegan bistros offers only 0 km vegetables, that come directly from the Lazio countryside: the flours, legumes and grains are all organic, and the dry fruit is fair trade. And if that isn’t enough, the gluten-free and ‘vegan cheeses’ are made in-house.

UNIVERSO VEGANO If you’re craving fast food and tasty paninis, look no further than Universo Vegano, the cruelty-free franchise that uses no products that are derived from animals and serves only home-made Italian food, using no conservatives or colourants. You can try the vegetarian pizza, the Bolognese vegan lasagne, the paella or the tofu and spinach cannelloni. IL MARGUTTA Known as RistorArte, is famous in Rome for being an excellent vegetarian restaurant where you enjoy, other than gourmet food, art exhibitions, theatre shows, book launches, meet-ups and debates. At Il Margutta, from brunch until dinner time, the dishes are made with the highest quality products. There’s a tasting menu (and even a vegan menu available) or you can eat from the à la carte menu. ORTO A vegetarian restaurant in Prati where the food is affordable and the portions are huge, packed with lots of organic vegetables and delicious local olive oil. For dinner there’s an à la carte menu and at lunch time there’s an enormous buffet. There are also two specials each week for when you feel like trying something a little different.

GREZZO If you’ve got a sweet tooth and don’t want to give up the cheese cake, tiramisù and other delicious desserts, there’s Grezzo, the raw patisserie and chocolate shop. The tasty raw chocolate is manipulated at low temperatures to keep all the nutritional qualities of the cocoa. All the desserts are completely vegan and gluten free.

LE BISTROT A vegan and vegetarian restaurant with a retro vibe, serving traditional recipes with a focus on Mediterranean flavours. You can try the onion or vegetable soup (€12), black spaghetti with taggiasca olives (€12) and red turnip and truffle risotto (€12). Don’t miss the desserts – there are traditional sweet treats or vegan and gluten free versions.

UOVO À POIS If you feel like a sweet treat made with whole-wheat flour and natural, unrefined sugar (the only exception being the icing sugar and food colourings used in the cake decoration), and free from milk and hydrogenated fat, this organic, gourmet patisserie is the place for you. There are also whole cakes available to order and pastries made with alternative sugars.

FIORE CRUDO E VAPORE A restaurant where the cuisine combines local and traditional recipes with raw cooking. As a result vegetarians, vegans and carnivores alike feast beside one another. The restaurant tries to satisfy every taste and dietary requirement, with organic produce and a huge menu. You can try gourmet dishes, raw food recipes, salads and a selection of raw and traditional desserts.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Indirizzi So What?!?, Via Ettore Giovenale 58, tel. 3298265250.

Universo Vegano, Piazza del Paradiso 18, tel. 3481004757.

Romeow Cat Bistrot, Via Francesco Negri 15, tel. 0657289203.

Il Margutta RistorArte, Via Margutta 118, tel. 0632650577.

La Capra Campa, Via Dignano D’Istria 51/a, tel. 327456 8592.

Orto, Via Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli 142, tel. 0645678050.

Grezzo, Via Urbana 30, tel. 06483443.

Le Bistrot, Via delle Sette Chiese 160, tel. 065128991.

Uovo à Pois, Via Pellegrino Matteaucci 62, tel. 3429448443.

Fiore Crudo e Vapore, Via Boncompagni 31/33, tel. 0642020400.

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it tel.06794941, www.adr.it tel. 0665951, www.adr.it tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 tel. 1518 (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers tel. 118 tel. 112

(Acea) tel. 800130336 tel. 115 (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 tel. 113 (Ama) tel. 8008670355