Wanted in Rome - December 2020 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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CONT

EDITORIALS 4. BRITAIN ACTS TO

PREVENT DOMESTIC VIOLENCE Jill Morris

8. THE RACE TO SAVE ROME'S PINES Andy Devane

14. ROME REMEMBERS GIGI PROIETTI WITH STREET ART

MISCELLANY

16. Lakes around rome 18. ROME FOR children 28. STREET ART guide 22. ART GALLERIES 41. CULTURAL VENUES 47. RECIPE 48. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 50. USEFUL NUMBERS

WHAT'S ON

30. EXHIBITIONS 33. ART news 34. CLASSICAL 37. OPERA 38. CHRISTMAS RELIGIOUS SERVICES IN ENGLISH

Andy Devane

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 12, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2020 | € 2,00

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 29/11/2020

CURRENTLY SUSPENDED Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

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Mauro Di Silvestre, Roma, 1968 Attenti al Lupo, 2020, collage e olio su carta Courtesy Exit Art Contemporain, Boulogne-Billancourt (FR).

ENTS 8

THE RACE TO SAVE ROME'S PINES

ROME REMEMBERS GIGI PROIETTI WITH STREET ART

EXHIBITIONS

36 OPERA

Humanitarian

BRITAIN ACTS TO PREVENT DOMESTIC VIOLENCE THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR TO ITALY EXPLAINS THE 16 DAYS OF ACTIVISM CAMPAIGN AGAINST GENDER-BASED VIOLENCE FROM 25 NOVEMBER-10 DECEMBER Jill Morris

he simple fact that there is a date to mark the Elimination of Violence Against Women campaign tells the world that there is a need to act urgently. As the UN reports, “only two out of three countries have outlawed domestic violence, while 37 countries worldwide still exempt rape perpetrators from prosecution if they are married to or eventually marry the victim and 49 countries currently have no laws protecting women from domestic violence”. The British government, myself and the team here in Italy, strongly believe that it is our responsibility to challenge all forms of genderbased violence and discrimination. That is why marking the 16 Days of Activism against genderbased violence, which started on 25 November (International Day for the Elimination of Violence against Women) and ends on 10 December (Human Rights Day) is one of our top priorities.

British ambassador to Italy, Jill Morris.

4 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Our work on human rights and gender equality is not restricted to these 16 days. Since I took up the role of ambassador to Italy in 2016, we have developed a strong partnership with the Italian government and many civil society actors to promote gender equality in our own countries and around the world. For example, our “Women In...” campaign has brought together inspiring role models to share their stories. And, at the international level, gender equality is a shared priority for the UK G7 presidency and the Italian G20 presidency next year.

Humanitarian

Violence against women and girls remains one of the most systemic and widespread human rights violations of our time, and we need to do more and scale up proven approaches to prevent violence. As we are all aware, violence against women and girls has increased during the covid-19 pandemic and, if unchallenged, will persist once this crisis has passed. It is therefore of the upmost importance that our covid-19 response tackles the longer-term structural causes of violence. UK-funded interventions have proved that violence against women and girls is preventable. We are investing £67.5m on What Works to Prevent Violence: Impact at Scale. This is the

largest investment by any donor government in programming and research to prevent violence against women and girls globally. It will also pioneer new scalable solutions to tackle violence in conflict and humanitarian settings. We have been selected to co-lead the new Generation Equality Global Action Coalition on Gender-based Violence. As the British foreign secretary underscored in his high-level remarks at the Beijing +25 meeting at UNGA75 (75th session of the United Nations General Assembly), the UK will use this platform to “tackle the root causes of violence, including using education to stop violence before it starts”. Wanted in Rome • December 2020 | 5

Humanitarian

Simon Lawrence, defence attaché at the British embassy in Italy.

This priority is also reflected in the work of our consular staff to support British nationals in Italy. They have been working on a long-term project to expand our partnerships in order to improve the assistance we provide when we deal with cases involving domestic and sexual violence. Thanks to a collaboration with Soroptimist International Italy (a nonprofit organisation that promotes gender equality through women's education and mentorship), our information pack, which is country specific, is now available in dedicated rooms at the Carabinieri stations. We have also established a strong relationship with the anti-violence Italian network D.i.Re., which has a helpline in English, and with Differenza Donna, an NGO supporting victims of violence, which has been responsible for the Italian national domestic abuse helpline (1522) since July 2020. I want to pay tribute to all those in Italy and the UK who protect and support women and girls whenever and wherever they need help. No woman should live in fear of violence, and every girl should grow up knowing she is safe, so she can have the best start in life. 6 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Eleanor Sanders, deputy head of mission at the British embassy in Italy.

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Nature

THE RACE TO SAVE ROME'S PINES THE CITY, THE VATICAN AND PRIVATE COMPANIES UNDERTAKE PROJECTS TO SAVE ROME'S PINE TREES FROM A KILLER PARASITE

n a sunny morning in November, a small crowd of curious passersby stopped to watch two men drill and inject a stone pine, or umbrella pine (pinus pinea), near the subway station at the Circus Maximus. The unusual sight was part of an experimental project, financed by the city, to save 200 pines from an insect responsible for decimating these distinctive trees in Rome’s suburbs.

Andy Devane The two-month scheme, costing €75,000, involves injecting the tree trunks with various treatments to counteract the pine tortoise scale insect (toumeyella parvicornis), as well as pruning infected branches and fertilising the roots. The deadly parasite feeds off the sap of trees and causes the spread of a sooty black mould, leading to extreme needle loss. The pine fights back by generating new needles which, in turn, weakens

The Giardino degli Aranci pines are being treated by GEA Snc thanks to a collaboration between the city and Amici dell’Aventino.

8 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

the tree and exposes it to new attacks by the parasite. It is a vicious cycle that – if untreated – can kill the exhausted tree within two years. The city says the trial project will attempt to discover the most effective treatments in dealing with the parasite, which arrived in Italy from North America in 2015. The highly-invasive bug was first detected in the southern Campania region, around Naples, which is home to a large US naval base. The pest has since spread out across south-central Italy, mainly in urban areas, at an alarming rate. It didn’t take the insects long to move up the coast to Rome where they have already destroyed pines in the southern suburbs of Mostacciano, Spinaceto and Castel di Decima, and now their effects are being seen in the centre whose pictureperfect pines are an integral part of the cityscape. Recently residents of the capital may have noticed unusually heavy carpets of pine needles, covered in sticky honeydew, under the city’s pines. Look up – if the tree’s foliage has the appearance of being burnt then it is most likely the victim of the dreaded parasite. As a non-indigenous species, the pest has no natural predator in Italy meaning that it can multiply and spread unchallenged by nature. The city’s trial project at the Circus Maximus follows calls during the summer by Rome councillor Ilaria Piccolo, of the centre-left Partito Democratico (PD), who said that “50,000 pine trees” are hanging in the balance. “The risk of collapse threatens the safety of citizens” – Piccolo said – “and Rome risks losing an ancient tree heritage of inestimable value.” Separately and not far away, a pioneering publicprivate project is underway at the Giardino degli Aranci, Rome’s impossibly beautiful orange garden atop the Aventine hill. The project is the result of a collaboration between the city and Amici dell’Aventino, an historic association dedicated to preserving the unique heritage of the Rione Ripa which includes the Aventine. The association pitched its proposal to the city’s garden service to use the Giardino degli Aranci as a high-profile showcase for a new treatment called the Nuovo Metodo Corradi (NMC), patented by Italian firm GEA, which is proving highly effective

Drilling and injecting pine trees at the Circus Maximus.

against parasites including the pine tortoise scale insect. Based in Verona, GEA uses chemical and biological products to safeguard trees and has been at the forefront of antiparasitic endotherapy treatments in Europe since 2001. The Servizio Giardini is struggling to keep up with the newly-arrived parasite, which has led to many trees falling or being felled throughout Rome, and the city readily accepted the offer by Amici dell’Aventino. The NMC is different to the treatment being trialled on the nearby Circo Massimo pines, with both methods being tested in the same area in order for the city to compare their effectiveness on a side-by-side basis. Amici dell’Aventino vice-president, Enrico Barbieri, told Wanted in Rome: “All of the trees on the Aventino, including the pines and orange trees at the Giardino degli Aranci, are protected by law. This is because the Aventino itself, as one of the most ancient parts of the historic centre of Rome, is a UNESCO site.” Barbieri says that his association hopes to engage large private corporations in the sponsoring of replanting as well as preventive treatment of trees on the Aventino and throughout the Rione Ripa. So what exactly is the NMC method used by GEA in treating pine trees against parasites? It is an endotherapy technique that consists in manual injections of a phyto-drug (a pharmaceutical product of plant origin) designed to eliminate disease in trees. Wanted in Rome • December 2020 | 9

Nature Francesco Zanella of GEA told Wanted in Rome: “The technique allows for phytosanitary treatment to be injected directly into a tree’s vascular system, thereby transporting it throughout the lymphatic network. This in turn allows the medicine to protect the tree from parasites all the way to its leaves – or needles in the case of pine trees.” Zanella says that although the primary target pest of the NMC is the pine processionary caterpillar – one of the most destructive native species to pines in southern Europe – it is also proving “very effective against an array of parasites including the infamous toumeyella parvicornis.” GEA has conducted numerous treatments at sites important to the city’s foreign community, such as the Non-Catholic Cemetery, which detected toumeyella infection on its pines several months ago. In July a first treatment was carried out in

the older part of the cemetery, where Keats is buried, and then in September, following the success of the first operation, GEA was asked to treat all of the other pines in the cemetery: 35 trees in total. However the 26 pines lining the public road outside – Via Caio Cestio – were not so lucky and the scorched effects of the parasite are clearly visible, particularly when compared to the trees just over the cemetery wall. Another bastion of the city’s expat world to benefit from the NMC treatment recently was the American Academy in Rome, with about 40 pine trees treated following a toumeyella infestation. Likewise the parasite was eradicated from around 40 pines at La Mortella Gardens, an oasis of tropical and Mediterranean plants created in 1958 by Susana Walton, the wife of English composer Sir William Walton, on the island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples. So how much does the NMC cost and how effective is the treatment long term? “The cost depends on the amount of trees to be treated, on their size and the overall logistics of each operation” – says Zanella – “It takes about 1520 days for the effects to be visible and the plant is protected for about two years.” Once the parasites start dying, within 20 days, there is a reduced production of sticky honeydew, leading to less soot which is removed by rainfall or can be washed off manually. Thanks to a lack of soot and the development of new needles, the recovering pine soon has a full green look again. Zanella warns that “many people don’t feel motivated to treat individual specimens because they believe it is pointless unless some kind of herd immunity is reached. However this is not the case with the NMC as the treatment acts as a vaccine, so one treated pine equals one saved pine.” So, once the tree is treated successfully, does it risk being re-visited by the parasite in the future or must it be treated on a regular basis? “The treated pines are immune to toumeyella for two years and to the pine processionary caterpillar for three years. As with vaccines, treating larger areas could actually completely eradicate these parasites.”

Treating pines with NMC at Giardino degli Aranci.

10 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

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palm weevil – which began decimating Italy’s palm trees about 15 years ago. However GEA has a special treatment to counteract that particular pest, called SOSPALM.)

The Vatican Gardens are using organic fertilisers and natural pesticides, with one of the greatest challenges presented by the toumeyella parvicornis which reared its ugly head in spring 2019.

Zanella says that once a sick pine approaches its final state it is good practice to fell it but not because of an overall lack of stability, since the lack of needles virtually eliminates the “sail” effect which is typically responsible for trees falling during strong winds.

The gardens’ manager, Rafael Tornini, told Vatican newspaper L’Osservatore Romano that experts have had “excellent results” in the battle to eliminate the pest using natural antibacterial products including potassium soaps, paraffin oil and Neem oil, a natural oil found in the seeds of the Neem tree.

“Paradoxically the tree is at less risk of falling in that terminal state than it is when the needles are healthy” – says Zanella – “However it is the dry branches that can detach and represent a hazard, hence once you eliminate those, you might as well fell the whole tree.” Zanella says the NMC treatment can save sick trees whose foliage has been compromised up to 75-80 per cent. In other words, as long as 20-25 per cent of the needles are still there, it is possible for the tree to make a full recovery. Efforts to save pines are also underway at the Vatican Gardens where the gardeners are guided by the eco-friendly approach espoused by Pope Francis in his 2015 encyclical Laudato sì. Under its Organic Gardens Project, the Vatican is aiming for complete organic management by 2022, gradually eliminating its reliance on chemical pesticides. 12 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

An experimental endotherapy project started last June on about 150 pines in the Vatican Gardens, using different active chemical ingredients injected into the trees. Parallel to this, experts are fertilising the trees’ roots with mycorrhizae, a type of fungus remarkably effective at fighting off disease. The environmentally-conscious approach is also advocated by Guglielmo Calcerano, Roman spokesperson for the Green party, who has called for the use of natural methods to counteract the parasites, such as the release of “predatory” ladybirds which, he says, “have been tested with good results for years all over the world.” Whatever the method – chemical, natural or a mix of both – it is heartening to see Rome rallying to save the noblest of skylines, before it is too late.

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Street Art

ROME REMEMBERS GIGI PROIETTI WITH STREET ART WHERE TO FIND ROME'S NEW MURALS IN HONOUR OF GIGI PROIETTI Andy Devane

hen Gigi Proietti died on 2 November, his 80th birthday, Italy was plunged into mourning for the much-loved actor, director, comedian and consummate showman. Born in Rome in 1940, Proietti studied law before embarking on a long and hugely successful career in theatre, film, music and television in the early 1960s. Celebrated for his talents as a storyteller and his ability to make people laugh, Proietti was a household name in Italy.

He presented numerous television shows in Italy and is best remembered on the big screen for playing the character Mandrake in the cult 1976 movie Febbre da cavallo. In the 1990s he achieved major success with the tv series Il maresciallo Rocca, in which he played the starring role, with the final episode attracting almost 16 million viewers. Proietti was known for his dubbing work, being the Italian voice of actors such as Roberto De Niro and Sean Connery. Proietti also had a long association with Rome’s Globe Theatre whose construction in Villa Borghese in 2003 was the result of his idea. As artistic director, he helped to put the theatre on the map thanks to the high-quality productions staged during its summer Shakespearean festival. The city has now decided to rename the Globe in his honour. Proietti’s death, and more importantly his life, led to a flurry of murals around the capital in recent weeks, from the city centre to the suburbs, featuring his grinning face and the characters he immortalised on stage and screen. These homages to Proietti have been created by some of Rome’s leading street artists, several of whom have had their work published as covers of Wanted in Rome magazine in recent years.

Gigi Proietti mural by Lucamaleonte in Tufello.

14 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

The most impressive – and certainly largest at 15 x 11 metres – mural was created by Lucamaleonte in the Tufello suburb, where Proietti spent his childhood.

Street Art

Harry Greb's tribute to Proietti in Tufello.

Proietti by Maupal at Teatro Brancaccio.

The D’après Gigi mural was commissioned by the Lazio region in collaboration with Rome housing authority Ater and the Roma Cares foundation of the football team AS Roma. A lifelong fan, Proietti’s devotion to his club is reflected in the side’s yellow and red colours used in the trim around his hat and collar. Lucamaleonte’s colossal portrait can be found on the gable end of a housing block on Via Tonale 6.

nightingales, and the mural can be found on Via Capraia in the Tufello suburb.

The first artist to pay homage to Proietti was Harry Greb, who is quick off the mark when celebrating newly-deceased legends, such as Ennio Morricone. Greb’s work features a very young Proietti, during a scene of A me gli occhi, please, one of his most-loved shows. The Roman actor is depicted together with sparrows and

Street artist Laika paid tribute to Proietti with “a small gesture of gratitude for the last great King of Rome” in the historic centre. Laika portrayed Proietti as Mandrake with a mural between Via della Tribuna di Tor de ‘Specchi and Piazza d’Aracoeli at the entrance to what, in the film, was the bar of Gabriella, Mandrake’s girlfriend. A mural in honour of Proietti also appeared on Viale Jonio in the Montesacro / Tufello area. The work was created by Anna Maria Tierno, in collaboration with the association Arte e città a colori. Another mural dedicated to Proietti was painted on a wall in Piazza degli Euganei, once again in Tufello. The large portrait of the showman was made by PaT (Painters anomini Trullo) and Uman art, comprising Mario D’Amico and Manuela Merlo. Last, but far from least, is a very successful portrait of Proietti painted on the shutter of Teatro Brancaccio on Via Merulana, where the Roman actor was artistic director from 2001 to 2007.

Proietti mural in Tufello by Anna Maria Tierno.

The portrait of a smiling Proietti – undoubtedly how he would wish to be remembered – was created by the well-known Roman street artist Maupal.

Wanted in Rome • December 2020 | 15

LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome

LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

16 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

Medicine

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ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

18 | December 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

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Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Wanted in Rome • December 2020 | 21

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

22 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ December 2020 | 23

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

24 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

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Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ December 2020 | 25

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26 | December 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ December 2020 | 27

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WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON Canditi al Veleno by Demetrio Di Grado at Rosso20sette. See page Wanted 32. in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ December 2020 | 29

EXHIBITIONS Italy’s museums remain closed due to the covid-19 crisis however private galleries are still open, with strict protocols in place for visitors. There are also some outdoor exhibitions. Check websites before visiting. Museums, theatres, cinemas and archaeological sites will remain closed until at least 15 January.

100 PRESEPI 13 DEC-10 JAN

The 2020 edition of 100 Presepi, Rome's international nativity crib exhibition, will be held under the colonnade of St Peter's Square. The popular event, which should have been hosted in a Vatican building on nearby Via della Conciliazione, moves outdoors this year due to the covid-19 crisis. A firm fixture on Rome's Christmas calendar, each year 100 Presepi hosts Nativity scenes from Italy and around the world. In addition to contemporary replicas of traditional 18th-century Neapolitan and Sicilian cribs, and 19thcentury Roman mangers, there are modern versions made from wood, papier-mâché and terracotta, as well as unconventional materials such as sand, rice and metal. The move to St Peter's, taken "in order to comply with the health regulations currently in force," will result in an "inevitable reduction in the number of exhibits," say organisers. Now in its 45th year, 100 Presepi was established in Rome in 1976 and took place in Piazza del Popolo until three years ago. Today it is organised by the Vatican's Pontifical Council for the Promotion of the New Evangelisation. For visiting details see website, www.100presepi.it.

CANDITI AL VELENO 5 DEC-23 JAN

Galleria Rosso20sette presents Canditi al Veleno by Demetrio Di Grado, a Sicilian street artist and collagist whose work is inspired

Domenico Bianchi at Lorcan O'Neill Gallery. Untitled, 2020.

by archive illustrations from the 1930s to the 1950s. Curator Francesco Piazza says that with this new series Di Grado evokes an atmosphere of the 1950s, in which the “caring, smiling womanwife, attentive mother, impeccable hostess” is surrounded by “fairytale elements” such as flowers, fabrics, angel wings, royal crowns. Di Grado “manipulates these images and distorts them, subverting and reconstructing their stereotype, extinguishing that aura of perfection from which she was enveloped and recreating the obsessions and fears of the contemporary female universe,” writes Piazza. For visiting details see website. Rosso20sette arte contemporanea, Via del Sudario 39, tel. 0664761113, www.rosso27.com.

30 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

DOMENICO BIANCHI 30 NOV-21 JAN

Roman artist Domenico Bianchi shows new large-scale works, made using wax and cherry wood, and a group of watercolours on paper, in a solo exhibition at the Lorcan O’Neill Gallery. Bianchi is known for the recurrent use of biomorphic signs in his works, and for the use of materials that interact with light, such as precious metals, fibreglass and polished wood. Using an ancient Roman technique, rediscovered in the 1950s by Jasper Johns, Bianchi manipulates wax as if it were paint. Over the course of his 40-year career, the Rome-based artist collaborated with some of the most important figures of the Arte Povera movement including Jannis

100 Presepi will be under the colonnade at St Peter's this year.

Kounellis, Mario and Marisa Merz, and Michelangelo Pistoletto. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

BACK TO NATURE: ARTE CONTEMPORANEA A VILLA BORGHESE 15 SEPT-13 DEC

Rome’s Villa Borghese park is home to a free outdoor exhibition project this autumn, titled Back to Nature, curated by Costantino D’Orazio. The park is hosting a nucleus of outdoor installations, designed or specially reinvented for the occasion by artists such as Andreco, Mario Merz, Mimmo Paladino, Benedetto Pietromarchi, Davide Rivalta, Grazia Toderi, Edoardo Tresoldi and Nico Vascellari. In addition there will be musical performances and projects by street artists. Casina dell’Orologio - Piazza di Siena, Villa Borghese. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

Canditi al Veleno by Demetrio Di Grado at Rosso20sette.

Wanted in Rome • December 2020 | 31

32 | December 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

ART NEWS ITALY STEPS CLOSER TO CREATING NETFLIX OF ITALIAN CULTURE

An ambitious project to create what has been hailed as the “Netflix of Italian culture” is closer to becoming a reality, reports online art newspaper Artribune. The plan, first announced by culture minister Dario Franceschini during Italy’s covid-19 lockdown in the spring, was recently allocated €10 million as part of the nation’s so-called Recovery Fund. According to Artribune the ministry is now in negotiations with Chili, the Milan-based firm that has been distributing films and television series in Italy via the internet since 2012. The plan to provide an online platform giving paid access to Italian culture is a joint project between Italy’s investment bank Cassa Depositi e Prestiti (CDP) and Chili, with the culture ministry acting as director of the project. The ministry states that the initiative has “enormous potential” and that the digital platform could offer access to music, opera, theatre premieres, cinema and virtual visits to museums. Under Franceschini’s plan, the Netflix of Italian culture would allow subscribers to participate virtually, from anywhere in the world, in Italy’s greatest art and cultural events, as well promoting knowledge of Italian culture internationally.

ROME’S MAXXI GETS A STAMP

Italy celebrates the 10th birthday of MAXXI, the national museum of 21st century art, with a commemorative stamp. Issued on 24 November by the ministry of

Italy celebrates MAXXI with a postage stamp.

economic development, the stamp is distributed by Poste Italiane and is available in post offices across Italy. There were 400,000 copies printed of the €1.10 stamp which belongs to The Excellence of Knowledge series. The stamp features the MAXXI logo and a detail of the landmark museum, designed by Zaha Hadid, which is currently closed due to the covid-19 crisis. First day issues and special sets for collectors will be available from post offices, with a “Spazio Filatelia” counter in Rome and other major cities in Italy. “We are proud of this recognition” – says Giovanna Melandri, president of the MAXXI Foundation – “It is nice to think that, even at a time when travel is reduced, through this stamp MAXXI continues to travel and arrive in everyone’s homes.”

ALICE PASQUINI MURALS AT ROME HOSPITAL

Rome street artist Alice Pasquini has created a new set of murals in the grounds of the Gemelli hospital in the capital. Pasquini’s murals are part of the Diciamo insieme Grazie (Let’s say thank you together) project, promoted by the Lazio region, which commissioned street artists from all over Italy to decorate 12 hospitals with images giving thanks to healthcare workers for their efforts in the fight against covid-19. Pasquini’s work consists of two walls which, as the artist explains, “are separated, at a safe distance, but communicate with each other thanks to the gesture of a little girl who gives a flower to a resting doctor.” Andy Devane Wanted in Rome • December 2020 | 33

CLASSICAL At the time of writing it is difficult to tell which programmes will continue in December. We are therefore listing the websites of the main musical organisations in Rome as the best way to keep up to date. Tom Borrow debuts at S. Cecilia on 4 December.

Accademia Filarmonica Romana

#www.filarmonicaromana.org

Accademia S. Cecilia #https://santacecilia.it

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti #https://www.concertiiuc.it/

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA

At the moment four concerts are listed. 6 Dec. Lessico Schumann II with music by Schumann. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118. 10 Dec. Vadim Repin violin and Konstantin Lifshitz paino music by Grieg, Prokofiev, Bartok and Brahms. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina. 12 Dec. Giovani Talenti in Concerto. Gabriele Durante piano plays music by Bach, Busoni, Beethoven, Stravinsky, Chopin and Brahms. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118. 17 Dec. Blow up Percussion. Music by Urquizza, Ciciriello, Guidarini, Reid and Polaczyk. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 188.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA SEMYON BYCHKOV TOM BORROW 4 DEC

The first performance of the young Israeli pianist Tom Borrow in Rome will be live streamed on 4 Dec on Raicultura.it and live broadcast by Radio Rai 3 at 20.30. Borrow has just started to make a name for

himself after a successful concert tour of Israel in 2019. He has won every national competition possible in Israel and has studied with Murray Perahia and Andras Schiff. His seemingly effortless performances of a very varied repertoire are a pleasure to watch. This year Borrow was due to make his debut in several European cities and in 2021 it is the turn of the United States. In this streamed concert Borrow will play Mozart’s piano concerto no 24, conducted by Semyon Bychkov and the S. Cecilia orchestra. The programme also includes Mendelssohn’s Scottish symphony. For more details of S. Cecilia streamed concerts in December see website. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale de Coubertin, www.santacecilia.it.

JOHN ELIOT GARDENER PIOTR ANDERSZEWSKI 10, 12 DEC

John Eliot Gardner conducts Piotr Anderszewski (pianist, composer and conductor) playing Mozart’s piano concerto 17 in G major, as well as Mendelssohn’s Italian symphony (no 4) with the S. Cecilia Orchestra. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Music, Viale de Coubertin, www. santacecilia.it.

BACH: THE ART OF THE FUGUE I and II

The first performance is at 13.00 and the second at 18.00. With Carlo Maria Parazzoli violin, Raffaele Mallozzi viola, Hans-Eberhard Dentler cello, and Antonio Sciancalepore and Francesco

34 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Bossone bass. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Music, Viale de Coubertin, www.santacecilia.it.

BACH’S CHRISTMAS ORATORIO 17,19 DEC

Trevor Pinnock conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus in this most famous of oratorios with Lauryna Bendziunaite soprano, Catriona Morison mezzosoprano, Stuart Jackson tenor and Luca Pisaroni bass. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Music, Viale de Coubertin, www.santacecilia.it.

KIRILL PETRENKO SCHUBERT AND PROKOFIEV 23 DEC

Kirill Petrenko conducts Igor Levit piano and the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus playing music by Weber, Prokofiev and Schubert. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale de Coubertin, www.santacecilia.it.

DANIELE GATTI MAHLER 8-10 JAN

Daniele Gatti conducts six pieces from Mahler’s Des Knaben Wunderhorn (The Boy’s Magic Horn) based on an early 19th century collection of German folk poems and songs which Mahler set to music in 1905 for soprano, baritone and orchestra. Also Beethoven’s Coriolanus overture and Haydn symphony no. 100. S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus with Marcus Werba baritone. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale de Coubertin, www.santacecilia.it.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ December 2020 | 35

Settled in Italy? • Apply for residency now and obtain your Withdrawal Agreement document • Make sure you’re registered for healthcare • Exchange your UK driving licence for a local one • Check your passport validity online and renew it now if you need to Find out more at gov.uk/livinginitaly 36 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

opera

Rome's opera house opens without an in-house audience. Photo courtesy Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

Due to covid-19 restrictions it is advisable to go to each organisation’s website to check on current programming.

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA 7 DEC

#https://www.teatroallascala.org Normally the new season opens on 7 Dec, which coincides with the saint’s day of Milan’s patron St Ambrogio. However this year La Scala had to cancel the opening opera, usually attended by the president of the republic and the prime minister and many other dignitaries. It was to be a new production of Donizetti’s Lucia di Lammermoor with Lisette Oropesa and Juan Diego Florez in the lead roles. In its place there will be a special streamed gala evening on Rai 1, Radio 3 and Raiplay television. Oropesa and Florez will lead an impressive list of 24 opera stars and dancers. The ocassion will be directed by David Livermore and conducted by Riccardo Chailly. The evening will focus on Italian music, with choreography by Manuel Legris, etoile at the Paris Opera for over 20 years and the director of the Vienna State Ballet

since 2010. This month he takes up his new position as artistic director of La Scala.

ROME TEATRO DELL’ OPERA DI ROMA 5 DEC, 31 DEC

#https://www.operaroma.it The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma will open its season on 5 Dec without an audience in Teatro Costanzi but with one at home, thanks to streaming by RaiCultura. The two performances of Rossini’s Il Barbiere di Siviglia are scheduled for 5 Dec on Rai 3 and New Year’s Eve on Rai 5. Rome’s opera house continues to think big during the difficult covid-19 times and its opening opera for the 2020-2021 will be a new production of Il Barbiere di Siviglia directed by Mario Martone and conducted by the opera theatre’s music director Daniele Gatti, who according to tradition opens the Rome opera season. To comply with the covid-19 health regulations the opera house is pulling out the seats in the stalls, turning the space into a stage and transforming Teatro Costanzi into a film set. It is difficult to imagine now that Il Barbiere di Siviglia was a disaster when it debuted in 20 Feb 1816

at the Teatro Argentina in Rome. Since then it has become a favourite in most opera repertoire, which could be why the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma has chosen it to open its 2020-2021 season. Mario Martone is a highly respected film, theatre and opera director. He headed Rome’s Teatro Argentina (where Il Barberie di Siviglia was hissed and booed on its opening night in 1816) and was the inspiration behind the city’s innovative Teatro India. One of Martone’s most famous films is Amore Molesto based on Elena Ferrante’s novel of the same name. In opera he tends to go for traditional interpretations, unlike the more adventurous Damiano Michieletto the director of the very contemporary rendering of Rigoletto during Rome opera theatre’s summer season at Circo Massimo. But the idea that Teatro Costanzi will be transformed into a film set makes it a promising start for the opera season in Rome, especially in these difficult times for the arts. The Teatro dell’Opera website also has plenty for opera fans, not least the photos of Mozart’s Zaide staged there in Oct conducted by Daniele Gatti, as well as an interview with the director Graham Vick. The website also has the digital theatre schedule for the operas and ballets the opera house is screening from its repertoire. Wanted in Rome • December 2020 | 37

CHRISTMAS RELIGIOUS SERVICES IN ENGLISH English-language religious services in Rome during the Christmas season will be different this year due to the covid-19 crisis, with protocols such as social distancing, masks and limited numbers applying to all churches. It is advisable to confirm programme with churches in advance. The Vatican will stream Pope Francis’ Christmas liturgies, which will be offered without public participation, for details see www.vatican.va.

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881. 24 Dec. Crib Service 17.00, limited to 60 people. Midnight Mass 23.30 in church and on Facebook live, via All Saints’ Church Rome Facebook page. Tickets must be reserved for both services, email office@ allsaintsrome.org no later than 18 Dec. 25 Dec. Holy Communion in church and on Facebook live 10.30.

Pontifical Irish College

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. 11 Dec. This year the Advent Liturgy and Christmas carols will take place online, via Youtube, at 18.00.

Rome Baptist Church

S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 19.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Service, 10.30. Those who wish to attend are asked to reserve in advance by phone or email romebaptist@gmail.com.

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 18.30.

St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic)

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121. 24 Dec. Children’s Christmas Pageant Mass 16.30. Concert and Carols 19.00. Midnight Mass 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 09.00, 10.30.

St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339. 24 Dec. Musical prelude 22.30. Holy Eucharist, 23.00. 25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas, 10.30. To confirm times tel. 3515003239 or email connect@ stpaulsrome.it.

S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359. 25 Dec. Mass 10.00. Maximum of 20 people due to space reasons.

38 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Sunlight at Caravita.

S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121. 24 Dec. Mass at 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30.

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic),

Via della Caravita 7. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve carol service 18.30. Vigil Mass 19.00.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ December 2020 | 39

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com | Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 50 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Wanted in Rome • December 2020 | 41

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in • December 2020 | 43 51 Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

An Education for Life that will make the diďŹ&#x20AC;erence

Castelli International School

International Elementary and Middle School

www.castelli-international.it

46 | December 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

By Kate Zagorski

PANGIALLO: ROMAN CHRISTMAS CAKE PANGIALLO HAS BEEN A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TREAT IN ROME SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES

Literally meaning “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas. It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are combined and formed into a dome shape. The cake is brushed with a saffron glaze and baked in the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky interior. Pangiallo is originally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted during the winter solstice to wish for the return of the sun, hence its colour and round shape. Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more diffused festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found in some of the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period. However, preparing pangiallo at home is very simple and will fill your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guideline, but you could also add dried figs, pine nuts or spices such as nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon according to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.

Ingredients PANGIALLO 80g almonds 80g hazelnuts 80g walnuts 40g pistachios 100g sultanas

40g mixed candied fruit 100g honey 100g dark chocolate Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 orange 80g flour 00

FOR THE GLAZE 2 small sachets of saffron (2 x 0.1g bags) 2 tbsp flour 00 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate into a glass bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is melting roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put into a large mixing bowl. Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and combine everything together well using a fork. Add the honey and continue to mix as you gradually pour in the melted chocolate. Lastly add the flour and, once combined, use your hands to push down and form a compact dough. Place the dough on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it into a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put 2 tablespoons of flour into a clean bowl, add the olive oil and saffron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick, creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake in the oven at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the outer crust is firm. Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve food Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list Brylla – Trieste Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669. Fafiuché – Monti Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968. Litro – Monteverde Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639. Sogno Autarchico – Prati Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310. Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek. Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681. Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also

a great number of still wines to choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastrami, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228. La Barrique – Monti At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty. Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953. Il Goccetto – Historical centre An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268. Al Vino al Vino – Monti While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortunately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803. Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar. Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

50 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

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Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

52 | December 2020 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj and Sir Ivor Roberts, Chair of the Keats-Shelley Memorial Association request the pleasure of your company

at a Champagne Reception, Gala Supper and Evening of Drama and Music; with an exclusive Tour of the Palazzo's Galleries and a production of "Life is but a Day" a celebration of Keats in his own words by Angus Graham-Campbell on behalf of the KSMA and Keats-Shelley 200

On Saturday 12th June 2021 at 7 p.m. Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, Rome Dress code: Smart/ Black Tie optional Ticket price: â&#x201A;Ź 450

RSVP: info@keats-shelley-house.org

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