Wanted in Rome - January 2020 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

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DECEMBER 31, JANUARY 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8

PËTR IL’IČ ČAJKOVSKIJ

SWAN LAKE CONDUCTOR NIR KABARETTI / CARLO DONADIO CHOREOGRAPHER BENJAMIN PECH AFTER MARIUS PETIPA AND LEV IVANOV TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CORPS DE BALLET A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

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JANUARY 23, 26, 28, FEBRUARY 1, 4, 6

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I CAPULETI E I MONTECCHI CONDUCTOR DANIELE GATTI

DIRECTOR, SET, COSTUME, LIGHTING DESIGNER DENIS KRIEF TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS

JANUARY 30, 31, FEBRUARY 2, 5

SERATA JEROME ROBBINS CONDUCTOR CARLO DONADIO CHOREOGRAPHER JEROME ROBBINS TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CORPS DE BALLET A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION FOUNDERS

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Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo, photo by Rikimaru Hotta

NEW PRODUCTION

CONT E

4. SECRET IMPRESSIONISTS IN ROME Mary Wilsey

8. ROME'S MOTHER OF THE POOR Mícheál MacCraith

12. UNVEILING ROME'S SCALA SANTA Sara Esposito

MISCELLANY

16. 18. 22. 26. 48. 52. 54. 57. 58. 62.

ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/12/2019

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Rain in the Campo Thomas W. Schaller www.thomaswschaller.com

ENTS 8

ROME'S MOTHER OF THE POOR

UNVEILING ROME'S SCALA SANTA

THEATRE

16 TO DO

Art

seCRet imPRessionists in Rome Rome's newly RestoRed Palazzo BonaPaRte hosts an exhiBition of seldom seen imPRessionist Paintings

here is something almost private (rather than "secret") about this exhibition, titled Impressionisti segreti. It is a small and intimate show. The paintings come from minor and private collections rather than state museums. Furthermore, the restoration of this small and perfectly proportioned Roman palace has been so beautifully achieved that when you walk into the first floor rooms you feel that this is how it might have been when Letizia Ramolino Bonaparte and her brother lived there from soon after Napoleon's death until her own demise in 1836. Of course the paintings now hanging in the six or seven small rooms in Palazzo Bonaparte would

mary wilsey have seemed outrageous to Napoleon's mother; none of the usual grandiose, historical scenes, battle victories, classical myths or pompous political portraits. Even the view over Piazza Venezia would have been different. Instead of the massive Vittorio Emanuele monument there would have been the Ara Coeli church that now nestles behind it and a clutter of houses and winding streets leading off to the grass-covered ruins of the Forum and Colosseum. If it is difficult to remember how much the view from the famous green balcony has changed, it is no less difficult to appreciate how startling these Impressionist paintings would have seemed when they first appeared in Paris

Sul divano (c. 1885-1890) by Federico Zandomeneghi. Private collection, Italy.

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Art in the 1860s. Outdoor, real-life and colourful scenes, so common now, were unheard of then. Men working in the fields, instead of soldiers marching to war, children playing with their toys and reading books instead of putti or classical gods fluttering overhead. Trees, rivers, fields and very ordinary farm houses, even industrial buildings, who would have wanted these? The new subject matter, as well as the new ideas about mixing colour and putting paint on canvas, led inevitably to a whole range of new buyers, new collectors, new dealers, new galleries, all outside the old academic, salon and patronage networks.

Renoir's Testa di Donna next to Sul Divano by Federico Zandomeneghi, the only Italian in the show. Renoir's young woman has a wearisome look in her eyes and her mouth is parted but not in a smile. As the catalogue suggests, this could have been a study for Renoir's Le Bagnanti in Philadelphia (rather than the one in Paris) but the face lacks the feeling in Zandomeneghi's work next to it. Here the expression on the face of the younger woman in profile is intriguing. Is she listening to the older woman – perhaps her mother whom we see only from the back – with interest, curiosity, indecision, perhaps even scepticism?

The 51 paintings in this exhibition are divided into three themes: landscapes, portraits and Paris life. There is an informality about them, which is precisely what made them so shocking when they first hit Paris. Most of them feel as though they were painted for the sheer pleasure of painting rather than with an eye to a commission or possible patron.

Instead of the usual fare of Monet water lilies, cathedrals or watery views of Venice, this exhibition shows the lesser known Meli in fiori in

There are paintings of friends and of friends' children. Renoir paints the two daughters of Martial Caillebotte (the younger brother of painter Gustave) surrounded by children's books. Achille Laugé paints his wife in Dinanzi alla Finestra looking down at an object on a table by the window; both figures in this austere painting are engrossed in household chores. Manet paints Berthe Morisot with a veil, a seemingly unfinished version of several other portraits he painted of his sister-in-law. In Davanti alla Psiche, Morisot paints the back of a half-dressed woman, pinning up her hair as she looks into a mirror. Both the lone woman from the back (and her featureless face in the mirror) coupled with the intimacy of her task were new departures. Thanks to sensitive hanging there is an equally expressive back in the same room. In Gustave Caillebotte's Interno, donna alla finestra, the back of a woman dressed in black dominates the composition as she gazes out of the window at a chunky building opposite, where a shadowy figure stands at a window. Her husband, seated and reading a newspaper, seems indifferent, even bored, by her presence. A tense anguish hangs over the narrative. Another interesting juxtaposition is that of

Pins aux environs de Cagnes (1910) by Pierre Auguste Renoir. Pérez Simón Collection, Mexico.

riva all'acqua, a gnarled and crooked tree trunk with staccato blobs of cream paint for the apple blossoms. It is as powerful as Monet's water lilies are serene, and although it is only small (73 x 60 cm) it has such a commanding presence that it seems much larger. Monet's Isle of Nettles is also somewhat unsettling, looming large as it does in its violet-blue mist on the opposite bank of the Seine. Two portraits by Renoir remind us of what painters know but often resent: that portrait commissions are always a sure way to pay off debts and repay favours. Madame Joseph Durand-Ruel presides over the room where her portrait hangs. She was the daughter-in-law of Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 5

Some of the landscapes in this exhibition seem almost routine today: pretty sea views, river scenes and rolling landscapes. Two vertical scenes by Pissarro stand out. One, I Tetti della Vecchia Rouen, Sole, is a scene of the roof-tops of the Normandy city, probably a winter scene, judging by the light. The other is of a line of spindly trees just beginning to turn to autumn colouring. I grandi faggi a Varengeville was one of eight Pissarro painted near Dieppe in 1899, most of which were bought by Durand-Ruel, and is in the Mexican Perez Simon collection, the largest single named lender of paintings to this show.

Devant la psyché (1890) by Berthe Morisot. Fondation Pierre Gianadda Collection. Photo Michel Darbellay.

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One landscape by Renoir, Pini nel Dintorno a Cagnes, is particularly intriguing. It is a late work from 1910, painted a few years after Renoir bought a property in Cagnes sur Mer, close to Nice. In addition to the strong Mediterranean colouring there are echoes of Van Gogh in those undulating olives in the middle distance. In Gaugin's Pescatori Bretoni, the languid river fishermen seem a far cry from the exotic figures of his later Tahiti period. Caillebotte's La Piana di Gennevilliers, which stretches to the far horizon, is cut into mustard-green and rosebrown rectangles, set on the diagonal, crossed horizontally in the foreground by the Seine and an improbably small steamer. Take a leap of the imagination and you are into Abstraction. Sadly, the women Impressionists, other than Morisot, do not have their due share in this exhibition. There is only one painting by Manet's pupil Eva Gonzales, Indolenza, of a rather wistful young girl (Eva's younger sister Jeanne) looking into the distance. But there is no work by that other great French Impressionist, Marie Bracquemond, or by the American Mary Cassatt. Cassatt was born in Pennsylvania, studied at the highly-regarded Philadelphia Academy of Fine Arts and subsequently went to live in Paris. Her friendship there with the collector Paul DurantRuel, combined with what must have been a flair for business, was responsible for launching the success of the Impressionists in the USA, where new money was chasing European culture. What a scoop it would have been for viewers to see her sulky and undignified Little Girl in a Blue Armchair (in which Degas had a hand) together with Morisot's Girl with a Doll (dressed in black, no less) and Renoir's painting of the two beautifully behaved daughters of Martial Cailleboit in this jewel of an exhibition. The exhibition is open until 6 March. It is curated by Marianne Mathieu, the artistic director of the Monet Marmottan Museum in Paris, who also curated the successful Monet show in Rome in 2017-2018, and by Claire Durand-Ruel, expert on Pissarro and a descendant of collector Paul DurandRuel. There are also works by Henri-Edmond Cross, Armand Guillaumin, Paul Signac, Alfred Sisley and Theo van Rysselberghe. Palazzo Bonaparte is owned by Italy's insurance giant Generali Italia and the exhibition is organised by Arthemisia.

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Paul Durand-Ruel, Renoir's friend and the most successful of all Impressionist collectors and gallerists. She may be sitting comfortably in a day dress rather than evening finery, but there is nothing ordinary about her splendid diamond and emerald ring or the floral decoration in the background. This portrait is hung next to an earlier one by Renoir, of the wife of another of the Impressionist patron-collector-gallery owners, Josse Bernheim-Dauberville, an early version of the more famous one of the wife of the other brother, Gaston, which hangs in the Musée d'Orsay.

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History Opera

Rome's motheR of the PooR lady gwendoline talBot was known as “la madRe dei PoveRelli” foR heR tiReless ChaRity woRk and ministRy to Rome's siCk mícheál macCraith

ady Gwendoline Talbot married Prince Marcantonio V Borghese in Rome on 11 May 1835. Cardinal Thomas Weld, England’s first cardinal since the granting of Catholic Emancipation in 1829, officiated at the ceremony in his apartments at the Odescalchi palace in Piazza dei Dodici Apostoli. Cardinal Weld was a cousin of the bride’s father, John Talbot, who became 16th Earl of Shrewsbury in 1827.

One of Britain’s leading Roman Catholic families, the Talbots succeeded in retaining their lands during the Reformation. In 1814 the future Earl John married Maria Theresa Talbot of Castle Talbot, County Wexford, Ireland. They had a son who died in infancy and two daughters, Mary Alathea Beatrix, born in 1815, and Catherine Gwendoline, born two years later. Talbot became friendly with the architect Augustus Pugin – known for designing the clock tower housing Big Ben and the interior of the Houses of Parliament – who converted to Catholicism soon after meeting him. Pugin rebuilt the Talbot residence at Alton Abbey Staffordshire, renamed Alton Towers, and made a profitable career in designing Catholic churches in the wake of Catholic Emancipation. Shrewsbury contributed to the cost of building many of these, earning the sobriquet of the “Good Earl John” as a result.

Lady Gwendoline Talbot, Princess Borghese.

8 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

In addition to providing his daughters with an exemplary Catholic formation at home, Shrewsbury was also convinced of the educational value of travel. The Talbots accordingly spent much of the winter on the Continent and the two girls acquired proficiency in French, German and Italian. As members of one of Britain’s leading Catholic families, they were feted by European aristocracy everywhere they went. Mary Alethea Beatrix was created a princess by King Ludwig 1 of Bavaria, and married Prince Filippo Doria in 1832. Gwendoline, who had been described by the British monarch King William IV (18301837) as “the greatest beauty in the realm,” was

History particularly taken with Rome. At a masked ball where she appeared as Lalla-Rookh, the heroine of the oriental romance by Thomas Moore, the Irish poet and friend of Lord Byron, she caught the eye of Marcantonio Borghese who soon afterwards asked for her hand and was granted permission to marry her. Gwendolineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s marriage brought her into the highest echelons of Roman society. A famous brooch worn by Gwendoline was made from the tiara of the notorious Pauline Bonaparte, sister of Napoleon and wife of her brother-in-law Camillo. Yet, despite her close involvement in aristocratic circles, there are strong indications that she was strangely detached from the frivolous aspects of this elegant lifestyle. In 1837 when Princess Gwendoline was sitting for a portrait by a Roman artist named Collati, he asked her to wear a black velvet dress. Gwendoline replied that the dress she was wearing would have to do. Collati then asked her to don her Turkish shawl, but it transpired that she had it given it away and was finally forced to borrow a shawl from one of her servants to satisfy the artist.

somewhat abashed by his proposals, the princess nonetheless stood her ground and invited the gallant into the humble dwelling she was visiting. Taken aback at the sight of the haggard mother and children who warmly greeted the princess as their benefactor, the young dandy was shamed into leaving a generous offering for their upkeep before he hastily withdrew. After an absence of nearly five years, Princess Gwendoline wished to visit her parents in Alton Towers in 1840. The happiness of the occasion was enhanced by the birth of her fourth child (a third son) at the end of July 1840. Returning to Rome in mid-October, the princess suddenly fell ill a week later. It turned out to be scarlet fever; the doctors were powerless and she passed away

Princess Gwendoline came into her own in the aftermath of the cholera epidemic that ravaged the Eternal City in 1837. That year 9,752 victims were struck by the disease in Rome with 5,479 deaths, in a city with little more that 150,000 inhabitants. The epidemic lasted from the end of July until 15 October, when crowds flocked to S. Maria Maggiore to celebrate the end of the pestilence. It was with great reluctance that the princess withdrew with her family to their home in Frascati, Villa Mondragone, during those summer months to avoid the danger of contagion. On her return, however, she threw herself immediately into relief work among the survivors, her prime concern being the infants orphaned by the plague. She engaged the well-off families of Rome to help her and visited the homes of the poor and destitute, bringing food, clothes and medicine to the needy. She had no qualms about washing, cleaning and feeding them, sometimes slipping out of the Palazzo Borghese in disguise to conceal her movements. This led to some embarrassing moments. On one occasion she was followed by a member of the papal bodyguard, intrigued by her gracious but mysterious aura. Though

Portrait of Prince Marcantonio V Borghese by Giovanni Piancastelli.

at midday on 27 October, followed soon afterwards by the death from measles of her three sons. (The only girl, Agnes, born in 1836, survived into old age and died in 1920). The whole city was plunged into grief at the news of Princess Gwendolineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death. On the night of 30 October the funeral cortege left the Borghese Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ January 2020 | 9

History Palace and, followed by massive crowds, made its way along the Corso, Piazza Venezia and the Baths of Trajan before turning left up the slopes of the Quirinal hill. The procession halted at the Palazzo Quirinale, where Pope Gregory XVI came to his balcony and blessed the remains.

leum of Augustus, had claimed that the princess knew his parishioners better than he did himself, and counselled him thus: “Fear not, lest you should praise her too highly; be sure that whatever you may say of her will fall short of her deserts.” The orator claimed that Gwendoline’s only

Lady Gwendoline is buried in the crypt under the Borghese Chapel in the Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore.

Declaring that her death was a public calamity, he gave orders that the great portal of S. Maria Maggiore be opened, a privilege reserved for the noblest Roman families. Bearing the inscription: Qui riposano le ceneri della madre dei poverelli, la Principessa Guendolina Borghese, Nata a Londra, dal conte de Shrewsbury, morta a 22 anni, il 27 ottobre 1840, the princess’s coffin was interred in the family vault below the altar in the Borghese Chapel in S. Maria Maggiore. The funeral oration at the solemn obsequies for the princess in the church of S. Carlo al Corso was delivered by the Rev. Charles Michael Baggs, rector of the Venerable English College in Rome. In the course of his discourse he remarked that the curate of the parish of S. Rocco, near the Mauso10 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

fault was to have been liberal beyond her ample means and continued as follows: "Her private fortune was entirely devoted to the poor; and for their sake she sometimes contracted debts, which were generously paid by the Prince her husband, who admired and encouraged her benevolence." When you next enter the Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore take note of the icon above the high altar, the Salus Populi Romani, an image of the Virgin Mary that was carried through the streets of Rome for the first time in over 200 years during the cholera epidemics of 1835 and 1837. Spare a thought too for the young princess who lies buried in the Borghese crypt below the altar, a lady whose devotion to the survivors of the epidemic was such that she earned the title, mother of the poor.

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Religion Opera

Unveiling Rome's sCala santa Revealing a new seCRet in Rome: the oRiginal maRBle stePs of the sCala santa

he modern city of Rome is a complex place for those who live here and especially for those who visit. With its three thousand years of history and its hidden ancient treasures, it continues to surprise.

sara esposito Among the most historic and unusual places in this city, the Scala Santa (Holy Stair) complex deserves special attention. Standing next to the Basilica of S. Giovanni in Laterano, the focus of Christian Rome from the time of Emperor Constantine, this architectural complex of

Workers removing the walnut wooden casing from the Holy Stair for the first time since 1723.

12 | January 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Religion

The original marble steps were heavily furrowed by the knees of countless pilgrims over the centuries.

historical, artistic and religious significance is an important destination. The Holy Stair itself, said to have been brought from Jerusalem by St Helen in 326 AD, is believed to be the same one that Jesus climbed for his judgment before the Roman prefect Pontius Pilate. It has always been part of the Lateran complex and believers mount it on their knees. It became an important part of a major pontifical sanctuary commissioned by Pope Sixtus V and built by his architect Domenico Fontana between 1588 and 1590. The building was decorated by a 40-man crew of artists headed by Cesare Nebbia and Giovanni Guerra; among them was Paul Bril, a Flemish painter and printmaker best known for his landscapes. They also painted every square metre of the walls in the complex, including the central stairway dedicated to the theme of the Passion and two of the five flanking staircases depicting a series of stories from the Old Testament. They lead to the Sancta Sanctorum, the “holiest of holies” – the first papal chapel, which was commissioned by Pope Nicolo III in 1277 and dedicated to the early Roman martyrs.

Since 2000, an international project initially funded by the Getty Foundation has progressively restored the vibrancy and colours of the decorative scheme of the Holy Stair complex. Thanks to the Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums, a team of restorers led by Paolo Violini has worked tirelessly on the treatment of more than 1,700 square metres of frescoes, many unseen for centuries. The venture, coordinated by Mary Angela Schroth, is now in its final stages and will be completed by late March 2020 with a special benediction by Cardinal De Donatis, the archpriest of St John Lateran. Thanks to the transformation of the Holy Stair the Passionist Fathers, its custodians, are now able to offer the faithful from all over the world a new reading of the biblical stories from the Passion of Christ and the Old Testament that underline the importance of faith and spiritual salvation. Between April and July 2019 the walnut wood protection placed over the Holy Stair was removed for the first time since 1723 for the Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 13

Religion Opera countless pilgrims over the centuries, leaving deep furrows in the marble. It became evident that the steps were of the same stone from Asia Minor that is found in other sites in Jerusalem, and that there were subtle differences in the marble colours as well, typical of building in the time of the Roman occupation of Jerusalem. Three precious mediaeval bronze and marble crosses were found embedded on the second, the eleventh, and the last stair, where legend recounted that a drop of Christ’s blood was found. The conservators were struck by the remarkable visual impact of the monument, and Violini was able to convince both the Vatican Museums and the Passionist Fathers to open the stairs for public viewing. The emotional and spiritual response from both pilgrims and the public was overwhelming, increasing the number of visitors three-fold from the usual attendance. Long lines formed at the entrance of the sanctuary to have the privilege of climbing the original stairs on one’s knees. The press coverage was equally strong, garnering attention worldwide, and according the project its just role as one of the most fascinating and unusual destinations in the Eternal City. The 28 steps of the Scala Santa without the wood covering.

restoration. Thousands of hand-written notes, photographs, ex-votos and coins found beneath the wood, and conserved by the Passionists in the Sanctuary, are being documented for future study. The 28 marble steps were revealed in their original condition:heavily worn away by

In the beauty of the decorations of the past, the ancient tradition of the Scala Santa continues to live in the form of renewed devotion. The entire sanctuary has come to light thanks to the international collaboration of philanthropists, restorers and art historians, as well as the recognition of the faithful and the lay visitor. The conservation and resurrection of the Holy Stair has added a new value to one of the oldest and most revered sites in history.

The Patriarchio, official headquarters of the Roman Church until 1305 when the popes moved to the Vatican, was composed of various buildings. The Holy Stair was part of this ancient complex, as well as the Sancta Sanctorum, the papal chapel commissioned by Pope Nicolas III in 1277. The stairs were moved in 1588 when Pope Sixtus V commissioned a new sanctuary to the Passion of Christ which included the Holy Stair and the chapel of the Sancta Sanctorum at the top of the stairs. 14 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

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to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 6

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Celebrate the first day of 2019 with a New Year’s Day parade in central Rome.

Have fun ice-skating around the large rink at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Take advantage of the opening of Italy’s chamber of deputies to see works by Guttuso.

American Poet Judith Baumel reads new work at St Stephen’s Cultural Center Foundation.

Swing by Moriondo & Gariglio for their famous bonbons before lunch on La Befana.

Walk down Via Cola di Rienzo to score some great finds during the winter sales.

Immerse yourself in the cinematic world of Sergio Leone at Ara Pacis.

Let your kids explore the Auditorium Parco della Musica with a guided tour.

Get to the Central Montemartini museum to see the Colours of the Etruscans exhibition.

Grab tickets to Frozen to see the Disney on Ice production at Palazzo dello Sport.

Start your day with a maritozzo, the breakfast of champions.

Escape to the Victoria Regeneration Spa in Ostia, open until 21.00.

Take the kids to La Fattorietta farm near St Peter’s.

Meet a friend at Palazzo Braschi to enjoy the exhibit Canova: Eternal Beauty.

Gather a team for the popular pub quiz in English at Scholars Lounge.

Check out S. Cecilia’s Music Adventure lesson and concert for ages 8 and up.

See an Englishlanguage performance of Charley’s Aunt at Teatro S. Genesio.

Go underground at the Vatican and visit St Peter’s Tomb.

Fri

January Sat Sun 2020 4

Enjoy a traditional English Breakfast at world-renowned Babingtons Tea Room.

Catch the Pompei and Santorini exhibition before it closes at Scuderie Del Quirinale.

Take your kids to the Living Dinosaurs exhibit at the Ex-Caserme Guido Reni.

Beat the back to work blues with a whipped cream-topped hot chocolate at Giolitti.

Be bowled over by the art and grandeur of Galleria Colonna, only open on Saturdays.

Take a day trip to the deserted town of Canale Monterano.

Take your dog to St Peterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Square to receive a blessing in celebration of S. Antonio Abate.

Explore the vast exhibition curated by the Louvre and Villa Medici at the French Academy.

Hop on the train to Assisi to marvel at the cathedral and the beautiful mediaeval town.

Indulge in a barbecue sauce-covered burger at TBSP Restaurant near Re di Roma metro.

Wine enthusiasts canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the Natural Wine Festival at the Westin Excelsior Roma.

31 The S. Cecilia Orchestra presents Tchaikovsky: Concert for pianoforte.

A short guide to some of the most important international Cultural Academies in Rome representing countries from around the world in the Eternal city.

Cultural Academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it.

CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com.

BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it.

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

18 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

KOREAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Korean Cultural Institute promotes Korean culture in Italy and periodically offers cultural events, concerts, art exhibitions and courses ranging from Korean language to cuisine. Via Nomentana 12, tel. 06441633, www.culturacorea.it. NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it.

ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

MA in ART HISTORY in ROME

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

A 15-MONTH AMERICAN GRADUATE DEGREE PROGRAM IN THE ETERNAL CITY

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed. Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

MACRO Asilo

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

www.johncabot.edu/arthistoryma Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 23 graduateadmissions@johncabot.edu

ROME'S MAJOR

Francesco Clemente / Enzo Cucchi Patrons of the Arts inDi theMaggio Vatican Museums Elisabetta / Jimmie Durham Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For Khan private Haris Epaminonda / Hassan behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. Kimsooja / Abdoulaye Konaté Victor Man / Shirin Neshat STATE MUSEUMS Yoko Ono / Michal Rovner Baths of Diocletian Remo Salvadori / Tomás Saraceno Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. Scully 0639967700, www.archeoroSean / Jeremy Shaw ma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Namsal Siedlecki Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

24 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

until 8 March 2020

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. main partner sponsor 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinimedia partner corsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme MAXXI Museo nazionale delle a ti del XXI secolo

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. |0639967700, www.archeoroma.bevia Guido Reni, 4A - Roma ww niculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, founding members coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Museo Napoleonico

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ January 2020 | 27

Join us on Your Journey

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Via di Villa Lauchli 180 00191 Rome, Italy +39 06 362 91012 www.marymountrome.com admissions@marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome what’s on

Moholy-Nagy László, Ackerfelder Tilled Fields, Collezione Antal – Lusztig. See page 35. Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 29

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EXHIBITIONS

dedicated to the work of Inge Morath (1923-2002), the first female photojournalist to join the Magnum photo agency. Morath captured the portraits of many great artists and writers from Henri Moore and Pablo Picasso to Doris Lessing, Philip Roth and Igor Stravinsky, as well as celebrities such as Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Pierre Cardin and Fidel Castro. The Rome exhibition comprises 140 photographs, including portraits of Morath by masters such as Henri Cartier-Bresson and Yul Brinner. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

RENATO GUTTUSO 29 Nov-12 Jan

Italy’s chamber of deputies in Rome opens its doors to La Vucciria, Renato Guttuso’s masterpiece painted by the great Sicilian artist in 1974. The work will be on display, display for free until 12 January until 12 January in the prestigious Sala della Lupa of Palazzo Montecitorio alongside two other works by Guttuso, Cristo deriso (1938) and Carrettieri siciliani (1946) in the parliamentary collection and never before exhibited to the public. The Sala della Lupa is open to visitors from Mon-Fri from 10.00-18.00 (last admission at 17.30). Palazzo Montecitorio, Piazza di Monte Citorio. Sergio Leone at Ara Pacis. Leone on the set of Duck, You Sucker! Photo by Angelo Novi.

C’ERA UNA VOLTA SERGIO LEONE 17 Dec-3 May

Rome pays tribute to the celebrated Italian film director, producer and screenwriter Sergio Leone (1929-1989) with an exhibition at the Ara Pacis museum. Known primarily for popularising the Spaghetti Western genre with films such as The Good, The Bad and The Ugly and Once Upon a Time in the West, Leone is also credited with influencing a new generation of directors, notably Quentin Tarantino. Organised by

the Cineteca di Bologna, produced and curated in collaboration with the Cinémathèque Française and the Istituto Luce Cinecittà, the “multisensory exhibition” offers insights into Leone’s cult films as well as his personal and professional life. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.

INGE MORATH: LA VITA. LA FOTOGRAFIA 30 Nov-19 Jan

The Museo di Roma in Trastevere hosts Italy’s first retrospective

CARLO LEVI E L’ARTE DELLA POLITICA 29 Nov-22 March

Under the title Carlo Levi and the art of politics, this exhibition highlights Levi’s multi-faceted personality, from literature to poetry, painting to drawing, with a particular focus on his political illustrations from the late 1940s. The exhibition features about 30 paintings, 58 political cartoons and 46 drawings by Levi who is best known for his 1945 memoir Christ Stopped at Eboli, an account of his exile in southern Italy from 1935-1936. Casino dei Principi, Musei di Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www. museivillatorlonia.it. Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 31

32 | January 2020 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

LA RIVOLUZIONE DELLA VISIONE 28 Nov-15 March

With the subtitle Towards the Bauhaus: Moholy-Nagy and his Hungarian contemporaries, this exhibition at Rome’s municipal gallery is dedicated to the art and memory of László Moholy-Nagy, a Hungarian artist and a key figure in the Bauhaus movement, on the 125th anniversary of his birth. On display is a selection of paintings, photographs and prints as well as three films by the artist, spanning his career from the 1910s to the 1940s. A journey between Hungary and Germany where, in 1923, he met Walter Gropius who, deeply impressed by his works, invited him to collaborate at the Weimar Bauhaus. The exhibition also comprises a section of paintings and sculptures by Hungarian avantgarde artists, both Expressionist and Bauhaus, most of which have never been shown before in Italy. Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

GIO PONTI: LOVING ARCHITECTURE 27 Nov-13 April

MAXXI celebrates the career of Gio Ponti (1891-1979), the acclaimed Italian architect, industrial designer, art director, writer, critic and artist, with a major retrospective 40 years after his death. A focal point of the exhibition is Ponti’s versatility in relation to his designs, from everyday household objects to the realisation of complex architectural projects such as the Pirelli skyscraper in Milan and the cathedral in Taranto. The exhibition presents archive materials, models, photographs, books, magazines and objects providing insights into a remarkable Italian architect whose legacy can be admired in important buildings around the world. MAXXI Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

museums in Asia, Europe and the US. The exhibition, organised by the Saudi Commission for Tourism and National Heritage, is dedicated to the civil and cultural heritage of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Arabian Peninsula dating back to ancient times. The exhibition includes more than 450 rare archaeological pieces spanning the eras between the Paleolithic era (around one million year BC) to pre-Islamic ages, followed by the early, medium and late Arab civilisations, the Islamic and medium Islamic eras, up to the establishment of the Saudi state in 1932. Baths of Diocletian, Via delle Terme di Diocleziano, tel. 06480201, w w w. m u s e o n a z i o n a l e r o m a n o . beniculturali.it.

ISABELLA DUCROT - CLAIRE DE VIRIEU 14 Nov-18 Jan

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea presents a double show comprising recent works by Italian artist Isabella Ducrot and French artist Claire de Virieu, who share themes of vases and the still lifes. The gallery describes the exhibited works as forming a “visual dialogue, an interlacing of the images caught through de Virieu’s creative use of photo techniques in the darkroom with those captured by Ducrot’s savvy manipulation

of pigments on paper.” Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

VALADIER: SPLENDORE NELLA ROMA DEL SETTECENTO 30 Oct-2 Feb

Galleria Borghese pays tribute to the 18th-century Roman silversmith Luigi Valadier with an exhibition of his ornate creations in silver and bronze alongside his original designs. The location of the exhibition is appropriate considering that Valadier was commissioned by the Borghese family to provide sumptuous furnishings for the palace, from fireplaces and furniture to tableware and bronze sculptures. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese, tel. 068413979, www.galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

ACEA E ROMA: 110 ANNI DI LUCE 24 Oct-26 Jan

An exhibition at Centrale Montemartini, once the headquarters of the thermoelectric plant for the production of energy in the capital, tells the story of the links between Rome and ACEA, the municipal company which has managed the city’s electricity supply for 110 years. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org.

ROADS OF ARABIA 27 Nov-1 March

Under the title Masterpieces of Antiquities in Saudi Arabia Across the Ages, this travelling exhibition comes to Rome after touring

Marilyn Monroe as photographed by Inge Morath on show at Museo di Roma in Trastevere.

Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 33

merging art and legend, science and astrology, occult and mystery. Described by MAXXI as an “extraordinary inventor of powerful and enigmatic images”, Cucchi’s work featured on a Wanted in Rome magazine cover in 2011. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

MO(NU)MENTUM: ROBERT MORRIS 2015 - 2018 15 Oct-26 Jan

La Vucciria (detail) by Renato Guttuso at Palazzo Montecitorio.

ALTAN: PIMPA, CIPPUTI E ALTRI PENSATORI 23 Oct-12 Jan

MAXXI dedicates a major exhibition to the Italian cartoonist and satirist Altan, best known for creating Pimpa, the red and white polkadot cartoon puppy, and Cipputi, the factory worker comic strip character. The exhibition comprises original drawings, illustrations, posters and animated films. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

ENZO CUCCHI 17 Oct-26 Jan

MAXXI presents a project by Enzo Cucchi, the internationally celebrated artist and leading exponent of Italian Transavanguardia, part of a worldwide Neo-Expressionist art movement. Cucchi’s project is centred around a cheerful cupid at play, threatened by a poisonous scorpion, in an allegorical work

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna holds the first Robert Morris show since the death of the American artist in November 2018. Best known as a founding member and leading exponent of American Minimalism, Morris was involved in various other movements such as Land art over the course of his 60-year career. The works on display in Rome were produced in the final years of his life and have never been shown in Europe. The sculptures of human figures made of Belgian linen soaked in resin and placed over models to take on their form, and Boustrophedons, made from carbon fibre. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gallerianazionale.com.

ON THE SPIRITUAL MATTER OF ART 17 Oct-8 March

An exhibition at MAXXI of work by leading international artists from diverse backgrounds and cultures asks: “What does it mean today to talk about spirituality?” The show is the result of a project that investigates spirituality through the lens of contemporary art and, at the same time, that of the ancient history of Rome, thanks to a selection of archaeological relics on loan from the Vatican Museums, the National Roman Museum, the Capitoline Museums and the National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia. The artists whose work is exhibited include Francesco Clemente, Jimmie Durham, Yoko Ono and Sean Scully. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

34 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Carlo Levi at Casino dei Principi. Self portrait with watch and paint brushes.

JAN FABRE: THE RYTHYM OF THE BRAIN 11 Oct-23 Feb

Palazzo Merulana stages an exhibition of work by the multidisciplinary Belgian artist Jan Fabre. The exhibition features site-specific sculptures as well as drawings and performance film, displayed among the museum’s 20th-century Italian paintings. Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www. palazzomerulana.it.

Moholy-Nagy László, Ackerfelder Tilled Fields, Collezione Antal – Lusztig.

MEDARDO ROSSO 9 Oct-2 Feb

Palazzo Altemps presents the post-Impressionistic sculptures of Medardo Rosso (1858-1928) among its collection of classical Greek and Roman sculpture. The museum is the first in Rome to honour the Turin artist with an exhibition which features works in wax, plaster and bronze alongside archive photographs. Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, tel. 06684851, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

CANOVA: ETERNA BELLEZZA 9 Oct-15 March

Christian Boltanski and Gino De Dominicis. Musja, Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

SECRET IMPRESSIONISTS 6 Oct-8 March

Palazzo Bonaparte, a major new exhibition space located where Via del Corso meets Piazza Venezia, holds an exhibition comprising more than 50 works from important private collections. The works, mostly never shown in public before, are by Monet, Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro, Sisley, Morisot, Gauguin and Signac. See article page 4.

Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www.palazzobonaparte.it.

CARTHAGO: THE IMMORTAL MYTH 27 Sept-29 March

The history and culture of Carthage, one of the most powerful cities of the ancient Mediterranean, is celebrated with a large-scale exhibition at the Colosseum, the Temple of Romulus and the Roman Forum. On display are precious artefacts as well as reconstructions and multimedia installations, highlighting a series of

Palazzo Braschi stages an exhibition of works by Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova (1757-1822), regarded by many as the greatest of the neoclassical artists. Canova is best known for his magnificent marble sculptures such as Amore e Psiche, Tre Grazie and Paolina Borghese. The exhibition includes more than 170 works by Canova and his contemporaries. Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

THE DARK SIDE 8 Oct-1 March

Musja, the new private museum in central Rome, launched a trilogy of exhibition entitled The Dark Side, with Who is afraid of the dark? featuring large sitespecific installations and works by 13 important international artists including Gregor Schneider, Robert Longo, Hermann Nitsch, Tony Oursler, Monster Chetwynd,

Gio Ponti: Loving Architecture at MAXXI. Taranto Cathedral.

Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 35

Valadier at Galleria Borghese. Photo Exibart.

historical events that unite the two great powers of the ancient world. For details see www.parcocolosseo. it.

LA SCUOLA DI LONDRA: OPERE DELLA TATE 26 Sept-23 Feb

Chiostro del Bramante hosts a major exhibition dedicated to the School of London, featuring paintings by Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon, organised in collaboration with the Tate Britain in London. The exhibition comprises 45 paintings, drawings and engravings by six artists: Michael Andrews, Frank Auerbach, Leon Kossoff and Paula Rego, in addition to Freud and Bacon. The figurative works span more than seven decades, from 1945 until 2004. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

finds. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org.

Italy. Highlights include a painting of

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ARTE RITROVATA

Pompeii area, and bronzes excavated

The Capitoline Museums mark the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the special Carabinieri unit for the protection of cultural heritage with an exhibition of looted archaeological and artistic treasures returned to

Conservatori,

7 June-26 Jan

COLORI DEGLI ETRUSCHI 11 July-2 Feb

Centrale Montemartini holds an exhibition of terracotta treasures from the Etruscan era from the Cerveteri area of north Lazio. The plates and decorative architectural mouldings were recently returned to Italy after a joint operation by the Carabinieri and the culture ministry to combat the illegal trafficking of archaeological

36 | January 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

MAXXI celebrates the creations of Altan.

John the Baptist by Guercino, frescoes torn from a Roman villa in the illegally in southern Italy. Palazzo dei Capitoline

Museums,

Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

CLASSICAL ROME ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA GIULIO CESARE: UN EROE BAROCCO 23 Jan

The story of Julius Caesar inspired five baroque operas and this concert, with the counter tenor Raffaele Pe and La Lira di Orfeo Ensemble will explore an anthology on this theme by Bianchi, Giacomelli, Handel, Piccinni and Pollarolo. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

ASSOLI V 24 Jan

This is the beginning of the new Assoli series at the Filarmonica to promote new music and encourage contemporary musicians. The concert on 24 Jan is called Omaggio a Marco Stroppa, with pianist Erik Bertsch playing music by Kurtag and Stroppa. Stroppa writes computer and electronic music and many of his compositions are inspired by poetry and his interests in sound, perception and cognitive psychology. He has a considerable following in both France and Germany. He was director of the department of musical research

Teenage pianist Alexander Malofeev performs for S. Cecilia.

at IRCAM (Institut de Recherche et Coordination Acoustique/Musique) in Paris before dedicating himself entirely to composition, research and teaching. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

violin concerto. Beethoven’s overture Re Stefano and Schumann’s symphony no 1 are also on the programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS ENRICO PACE

S. CECILIA STRINGS 8 Jan

The S. Cecilia strings conducted by Luigi Piovano play music by Vivaldi, Bach, Respighi and Rota. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

HAYDN’S CREATION 9-11 Jan

Manfred Honeck conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Haydn’s Creation. Robin Johannsen is the soprano, Maximilian Schmitt the tenor and Tareq Nazmi the bass. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

22 Jan

Leonidas Kavakos violin and Enrico Pace piano play four Beethoven sonatas, 2, 3, 6 and 7. Kavakos returns to S. Cecilia in mid-February to perform with the whole orchestra, conducted by Gianandrea Noseda, playing music by Beethoven and Tchaikovsky. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MARIO BRUNELLO 29 Jan

Cellist Mario Brunello plays and explains 12 of Bach’s works. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

JANINE JANSEN

ALEXANDER MALOFEEV

Violinist Janine Jansen is conducted by Antonio Pappano with the S. Cecilia orchestra, playing Mendelssohn’s

The Finnish conductor Susanna Malkki leads the 18-year-old Russian pianist and S. Cecilia

16-18 Jan

30-31 Jan

Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 37

orchestra playing Tchaikovsky's piano concerto no 1, as well as music by the Finnish composer Lotta Wennokoski and Bartok. Wennokoski started her career by composing music for radio plays and short films. Flounce, a short, fast-paced and dramatic piece, which was commissioned by the BBC as the contemporary composition for the Last Night of the Proms in 2017, will be played in this programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Some of Rome's English-speaking churches, such as St Paul's within the Walls, All Saints' Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts and opera recitals. See www.romaoperaomnia. com.

OTHER VENUES IN ROME

The Oratorio Gonfalone has concerts every Thursday evening in the beautiful church on Via del Gonfalone 32 A, just off Via Giulia. www. oratoriogonfalone.eu.

Soprano Robin Johannsen performs in Haydnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Creation for S. Cecilia.

ROCK, POP, JAZz

Modena City Ramblers at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

MODENA CITY RAMBLERS 30 Jan The Modena City Ramblers

38 | January 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

perform at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The Italian folk band is influenced heavily by Celtic and Irish music and has sold over half

a million albums since forming in 1991. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Moses Pendleton’s Alice returns to the Teatro Olimpico in February.

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA SYLVIA BY DELIBES

17 Dec- 14 Jan

The 2019-2020 La Scala season begins with a new production of Delibes’ ballet Sylvia, rechoreographed by Manuel Legris for Vienna’s Staadtsballet and first performed there in November 2018. Tchaikovsky admitted that his Swan Lake, which was initially a failure,

paled in comparison to Sylvia, which was premiered in Paris in June 1876. The uninspiring choreography by Merante, with whom Delibes had a difficult relationship, blighted the ballet and it was not until the 1950s that it finally came into its own with the new choreography by Frederick Ashton. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

SERATA VAN MANEN - PETIT 24 Jan-8 Feb

Three works by the Dutch dancer and choreographer Hans van

Manen, Adagio Hammerclavier (music by Beethoven), Kammerballet (music by Kara Karayev, John Cage and Scarlatti,) and Sarcasmen (music by Prokovief) and two ballets by Roland Petit, Le Combat des Anges (music by Faure) and Le Jeune Homme et la Mort (music by Bach). Van Manen’s Kammerballet and Sarcasmen have never been performed before at La Scala. Roberto Bolle will dance in Petit’s masterpiece, Le Jeune Homme et la Mort, on 24, 25, 28, 31 Jan and 1 Feb. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org. Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 39

The Balletto di Roma dances Arcaico at the Istituzione Universitario dei Concerti.Olimpico in February.

MADINA

22 March-16 April

This is the world premiere of Madina, a new work by Fabio Vacchi with choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti on a libretto by Emmanuelle di Villepin, based on her novel La ragazza che non voleva morire. The story is about a Chechen suicide bomber, Madina, who is forced into becoming a terrorist but decides not to kill. It is a complete work, rather than a study, of dance, theatre, music and the spoken word. La Scala hopes to present one completely new contemporary work each season. Roberto Bolle dances on 22, 24 March and 1, 2, 16 April. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SWAN LAKE 31 Dec-8 Jan

There is little for ballet fans at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma until Benjamin Pech’s version of Swan Lake with Polina Seminova (2 Feb) and Susanna Salvi (3, 4 Feb) as Odette / Odile and Daniel Camargo 2, 5, 7 Jan) and Claudio Cocino (3, 4, 8 Jan) as Prince Seigfreid. Apart from a change in the dancers this

40 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

is a re-run of the opening of last season at Rome’s opera house. Pech’s interpretation of the ballet, which he danced many times at the Paris Opera before he was brought to Rome as the master of ballet by Eleonora Abbagnato, centres on the friendship and betrayal of Siegfried and Benno, eliminating the role of Rothbart. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

SERATA JEROME ROBBINS 30 Jan-5 Feb

Glass Pieces (music by Philip Glass), In the Night (music by Chopin) andThe Concert (music by Chopin) are the three pieces chosen for this Jerome Robbins compendium. Rome stars Rebecca Bianchi, Claudio Cocino and Susanna Salvini dance in all three works. Eleonora Abbagnato, the head of dance at the Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, and Zachary Catazaro from the New York City Ballet make up the third couple in In the Night. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

IL CORSARO 1-8 March

This is a new version of Le Corsaire, choreographed by Jose Carlos Martinez, who returns to the original, taking out many of the additions that have been made since the ballet was first danced

in 1856, reducing it to two rather than the usual three acts. Martinez, another dancer / choreographer from the Paris Opera and is now the artistic director of the Spanish National Ballet. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

TEATRO OLIMPICO MOMIX - ALICE 12 Feb-1 March

Alice was choreographed by Moses Pendleton for Momix and had its world premiere at Teatro Olimpico in Feb 2019. It returns once again to the Olimpico as part of the Giornate della Danza di Roma Festival. Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

BALLETTO DI ROMA 21 Jan

The Balletto di Roma performs for the first time with the Istituzione Universitario dei Concerti in Arcaico, choreographed by Davide Bombana with music by Katia Presti. The five dancers and musicians (piano, percussion and voice) are all present on stage. It is a co-production with the Fabbrica Europa. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

Rome prepares to unveil the legendary Torlonia Collection.

ART NEWS TORLONIA COLLECTION SEES LIGHT OF DAY

The legendary Torlonia Collection, considered among the world’s most important private collections of ancient marble sculptures, will at long last go on public display in Rome. The Capitoline Museums will show 96 pieces from the vast collection in the exhibition The Torlonia Marbles: Collecting Masterpieces, from 25 March until 10 January 2021. Much of the collection, which comprises marble, bronze and alabaster statues, busts, bas-reliefs and sarcophagi dating to the ancient Roman era, has been hidden away for 70 years. The former Museo Torlonia opened in 1875 on Via della Lungara in Trastevere, however in the postwar period access to the palace’s 77 rooms was granted only occasionally to experts or visiting dignitaries. In 1976 the museum closed definitively, to make way for luxury apartments, and the priceless collection was moved to the basement of another private Roman palace owned by the Torlonia family. For more than four decades the collection has been kept in storage, despite attempts by successive governments to persuade the family to either sell or display the works in public. Now, thanks to several years of talks between Italy’s culture minister Dario Franceschini and the Torlonia Foundation – the organisation that administers the family’s assets – some of the collection’s most important marble and alabaster works will go on public display in Italy, before travelling abroad. The works have been restored in a project financed by luxury jeweller Bvlgari, and there are longterm plans to find a venue in Rome in which to display the collection on a permanent basis.

MAJOR EXHIBITIONS ELSEWHERE IN ITALY

Amedeo Modigliani, known for his portraits featuring elongated necks and faces, is honoured with a major exhibition in Livorno, where the Italian painter and sculptor was born 100 years ago. The Museo della Città

42 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

presents 14 paintings and 12 drawings by Modigliani (1884-1920), alongside around 100 other works by his contemporaries in Paris, Andrè Derain, Chaïm Soutine, Maurice Utrillo and Suzanne Valadon. The show runs until 16 February and features several portraits of Modigliani’s partner and muse Jeanne Hébuterne who took her own life, aged 21, two days after Modigliani died of tuberculer meningitis aged 35. Museo della Città, Piazza del Luogo Pio. The Bandini Pietà by Michelangelo is currently being restored in full view of visitors to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, the cathedral museum of Florence. The conservation project, which is being financed by the philanthropic group Friends of Florence, is expected to be completed by summer 2020. Central to the restoration of the marble sculptural group, on which Michelangelo worked from 1547 to 1555, is the removal of centuries of accumulated grime and candle wax, as well as dealing with discolouration resulting from a cast made of the work in the late 19th century. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection celebrates the Venetian years of its founder who lived in Venice for three decades, from 1948 until her death in 1979. An exhibition entitled The Last Dogaressa highlights the events that marked Guggenheim’s life in Venice, and comprises 60 pieces, including rarely-seen works by Arp, Bacon, Duchamp, Giacometti, Pollock and Sutherland. The show runs until 27 January. Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Dorsoduro 701-704. Naples celebrates Andy Warhol by displaying 200 works by the Pop art supremo, with a focus on Italy and Naples in particular. The exhibition, which is held at the Basilica of Pietrasanta until 23 February, features Warhol’s icons, portraits, Polaroids, prints and drawings. A highlight includes Warhol’s Pop art vision of Vesuvius created in 1985, two years before the artist’s death. Basilica della Pietrasanta, Piazzetta Pietrasanta 17-18. Andy Devane

A FOOTBALL GAME UNLIKE ANY OTHER GET YOUR

TICKETS ON YOUR

MOBILE PHONE

asroma.com/en/ticketing OR SIMPLY SCAN THIS CODE WITH YOUR PHONE

opera MILAN TOSCA BY PUCCINI 7 Dec-8 Jan

The La Scala season opens with Puccini’s opera Tosca in a new version by Davide Livermore and conducted as usual by Riccardo Chailly. Anna Netrebko, who has sung La Scala’s opening opera for three seasons, takes the part of Tosca. She usually sings opposite her husband Yusif Eyvazov but here the part of Cavaradossi will be sung by Francesco Meli (he will sing three other La Scala operas this season), and Luca Salsi takes the part of Scarpia. Chailly now adds Tosca to the list of other Puccini operas (Turandot, La Fanciulla del West, Manon and Madame Butterfly) he has been re-examining for Milan’s opera house. Compared with Verdi and Rossini operas Puccini’s works are often re-staged in without much critical research into new insights revealed by modern musicology. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROMEO E JULIETTE BY CHARLES GOUNOD 15 Jan-16 Feb

This is a Metropolitan Opera production, conducted by Lorenzo Viotti, with Diana Damrau and

Robert Carsen’s Eugenie Onegin by Tchaikovsky at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

Vittorio Grigolo. Grigolo, the popular Italian tenor, caused considerable controversy last September when he was temporarily under investigation by London’s Royal Opera House (ROH) for allegedly groping of one of the chorus during a ROH tour in Japan. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

IL TROVATORE BY VERDI 6-29 Feb

Nicola Luisotti conducts Verdi’s Il Trovatore in a co-production with the Salzburg festival, which was first performed in Salzburg in 2014. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

IL TURCO IN ITALIA BY ROSSINI 22 Feb-19 March

The new La Scala production of Rossini’s comic opera is conducted by Diego Fasolis and directed by Roberto Andò. Inevitably this production will be compared with the ZeffirelliMaria Callas version at La Scala in the 1950s. Andò is a cinema director (he worked with Francis Ford Coppola, Fellini, Francesco Rosi), as well as a playwright and author, and Fasolis will be conducting his first Rossini opera at La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA I CAPULETI E MONTECCHIE BY BELLINI 23 Jan-10 Feb Diana Damrau and Vittorio Grigolo in Gounod’s Romeo e Juliette.

44 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Daniele Gatti conducts this opera, which is rarely performed in Rome. It is directed by Denis Krief, who

directed the version of Aida this year for the opera house’s summer season at the Baths of Caracalla. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

EUGENIE ONEGIN BY TCHAIKOVSKY 18-29 Feb

Tchaikovsky’s opera will be conducted by James Conlon, directed by Robert Carsen. This is Carsen’s second production at Rome’s opera theatre (the first was Idomeneo by Mozart in November). Carsen originally developed this work in 1997 for the Met Opera, which kept it in its repertoire until the Deborah Warner production of the same opera in 2013. It was picked up successfully by the Canadian Opera Company to open its 2018/2019 season. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

TURANDOT BY PUCCINI 25 March-5 April

This will be Ai Weiwei’s first experience at directing opera and his debut in Rome. He will also be designing the sets and the costumes. Turandot, which is set in China, has been close to Weiwei’s heart since he and his half-brother appeared as extras in Zeffirelli’s version of the opera at the Met Opera in 1987. Weiwei said that his version will be an opera with clear cultural and political references to the contemporary world, referring to Hong Kong in particular. To have managed to sign Weiwei to direct one of its operas is clearly another big plus for the Rome opera house, following on its engagement of the South African William Kentridge. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

Theatre ROMA FRINGE FESTIVAL 6-24 Jan

This festival dedicated to independent theatre features Italian and international acts, with genres usually including performance, drama, comedy, street art, standup, sung theatre, theatrical dance, improvisation, puppet theatre and workshops. At the time of going to press the programme was unavailable. The festival is scheduled to take place from 6-17 January at La Pelanda in Testaccio, with a final night on 24 January at Teatro Vascello. For details see website. La Pelanda, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, www.romafringefestival.it.

HOW TO SURVIVE IN ITALY 10 Jan

The first Italian comedy show entirely written in English language aimed at foreigners and tourists, performed by a double-act of two Italian artists in Rome on a weekly basis. Through comedy sketches, jokes and puns, Fabrizio Mazzeo and Sergio Viglianese have built up a funny show full of rhythm which describes Italians’ flaws and virtues. Described as “the perfect guide to be ready for this country’s craziness”, the show takes place at 18.00 each Friday. Teatro Flaiano, Via di Santo Stefano del Cacco, www.teatroflaiano.com.

We Will Rock You at Teatro Brancaccio.

WE WILL ROCK YOU 28 Jan-2 Feb

Teatro Brancaccio stages the jukebox musical based on the songs of British rock band Queen and written by Ben Elton. The musical tells the story of a group of bohemians who struggle to restore the free exchange of thought, fashion and live music in a distant future where everyone dresses, thinks and acts the same. The songs in the Rome production will be sung in their original English-language versions. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

CHARLEY’S AUNT 28 Jan-2 Feb

The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome present the comedy Charley’s Aunt by Brandon Thomas. Jack Chesney loves Kitty Verdun and Charley loves Miss Amy Spettigue. They invite the ladies to meet

Charley’s wealthy aunt who sends the boys into cataclysmic confusion with hilarious consequences. Directed by Sandra Provost, this English-language production will run on 28-31 Jan at 20.30 and 1-2 Feb at 17.30. For bookings contact playsinrome@yahoo.com or tel. 3478248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, (Piazza Mazzini), www. teatrosangenesio.it.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 31 Jan

With more than 90 shows under its belt over the last decade, Rome’s Comedy Club is currently midway through its tenth season of standup comedy in English. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, and the show starts at 21.30. Bookings by text via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@ gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

WASTED

14-26 Jan

Teatro India stages an Italian version of the play which launched the career of one of the most exciting performance poets on the British cultural scene, Kate Tempest. A story of love, life and losing your mind, Wasted focuses on two men and a woman who gather to commemorate the tenth anniversary of the death of their closest friend. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 0687752210, www. teatrodiroma.net.

46 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Wasted by Kate Tempest at Teatro India.

A Modern Antiquity at Villa Medici.

ACADEMIES BRITISH SCHOOL OF ROME 6-14 Dec

The British School at Rome holds several interesting lectures this month including Southern visions: an imagined south in postwar Italy by Antonio Carbone (Deutsches Historisches Institut in Rom) at 17.00 on 16 January, and Mars, Minerva and the Muses: martial humanism and the early modern soldier-author by Matthew Woodcock (East Anglia) at 18.00 on 22 January. For details see website. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www. bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 6 Oct-9 Feb

Casa di Goethe presents Sguardi sull’Italia - 1780-1850, an exhibition featuring a selection of its precious drawings and engravings by 18thand 19th-century artists from England, France, Germany and Italy. The landscapes and urban views on display include sepia drawings by Christoph Heinrich Kniep and engravings by Samuel Bellin, Georg Hackert and Giovanni Battista Piranesi. A highlight of the show is a view of Piazza del Popolo and its surroundings from a hot-air

balloon, published around 1850 as a colour lithograph by Louis Jules Arnout. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 8 Nov-1 March

The French Academy in Rome at Villa Medici presents A Modern Antiquity, an exhibition in collaboration with the Louvre in Paris, with a focus on the appropriation of classical Roman antiquity in France. Over the past five years, the Louvre and Villa Medici have created a research and study partnership, supported by their respective collections and following extensive restoration campaigns. The exhibition presents works spanning four centuries of acquisitions, from the founding of the French Academy in the 17th century to the present day. Accademia di Francia a Roma - Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611, www.villamedici.it.

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE 8 Oct-23 Feb

The Keats-Shelley House presents an exhibition that explores the parallels in the lives and works of John Keats and Virginia Woolf.

Entitled From Hampstead to Rome, the show features wonderfully simple single-line drawings by Roberto Einaudi with quotations from the works of both. The exhibition will remain open to visitors during the temporary closure of the museum and library, which reopen on 24 February after the delicate restoration of the ceiling. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.org.

SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 11 Oct-19 Jan

Entitled Retour à Rome, this “nonconventional installation” offers a different take on the concept of landscape being associated traditionally with painting. The exhibition toys with the idea that the “moving image”, or film, is the medium best placed today to evoke memories associated with landscapes. The participating artists are Anne-Laure Franchette, Vidya Gastaldon, Clemens Klopfenstein, Marie Matusz, Gianni Motti, Uriel Orlow, Denis Savary, Rico Scagliola & Michael Meier, and Ian Wooldridge. Istituto Svizzero, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www. istitutosvizzero.it. Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 47

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 5048 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome | |January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

dd p

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

, tel.

3432,

w.ilsi-

, tel.

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

RO MA

WANTED junior inROME CHRIS SMALLING COMES TO ST STEPHEN'S Laith Zehni AS Roma defender and Manchester United legend Chris Smalling was invited to talk to the students of St Stephen’s International School about equality in sports, his vegan diet, and, of course, football, on Monday 2 December. All students, teachers and faculty were invited by Tackling Inequality, a student-led organisation at St Stephen’s run by Lucie Dumont, Raffaella Jarvis and Laith Zehni, which advocates for equality in sports. Smalling’s presence was greatly welcomed, as the cheers that erupted when he walked into our small chapel were overwhelming. He answered many questions from both the panel and the audience, offering a rich insight on his

52 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

responsibilities as a football player; from advocating for social issues to supporting a lifestyle that is healthy and good for the environment. Having been a vegan for several years, Smalling expressed how this lifestyle change was extremely beneficial to him as a football player, particularly when healing from injuries such as tendonitis, and how even some of his teammates were showing interest in the diet. With the looming force of climate change upon us, knowing that even professional athletes have turned to vegan diets shows how it really is a fulfilling and nurturing diet that could only benefit us and our planet. Furthermore, Smalling discussed his personal involvement in Football Beyond Borders which is a non-profit organisation that works with highschools across London, Kent, Essex, and north west of England.

“FBB supports young people from disadvantaged backgrounds who are passionate about football but disengaged at school in order to help them finish school with the skills and grades to make a successful transition into adulthood. We do this by providing long-term, intensive support, built around relationships and young people’s passions, in the classroom and beyond.” His involvement in this is what particularly inspired us to invite him, as advocating for social issues in sports to combat class, race, and gender disparities is what Tackling Inequality stands for. Sports teams are communities where differences should be either ignored or congratulated, as the camaraderie involved in playing on sports teams is difficult to replicate anywhere else. Unfortunately, in our society, differences are often seen as detriments, even in the professional world. When asked about the problem with racism in the football world, Smalling expressed the importance of the younger generation in playing a role of spreading love and equality. He recalled how when he was younger, people looked to the older generation for solutions. Now he looks to us to send forth compassion, hence his involvement with FBB. Discussing social issues like these and what we can do about them with a professional football player gave us a great sense of encouragement that our club could actually make a difference. When the time came for audience questions, the typical inquiries were made about his role as a football player including whether he still feels nervous when going out on that big field every match (yes) or, of course, who the best player he has ever played with (Paul Scholes) or against (Didier Drogba in his prime). Having Smalling at our school was a privilege we were extremely excited to welcome. We consider it a victory and a step forward for Tackling Inequality, as

we only plan on doing more. Spreading awareness is only the first step, as we hope to make something of this awareness. In the future, we are planning another meeting with Cecilia Andren Nyström, founder of Futebol da forca, an organisation whose mission is “building long-lasting systemic impact by engaging leaders and role models as football coaches and maximising their potential in developing girls' agency and leading change in their local communities”. In addition to giving a presentation to the school, Cecilia will also run workshops for our football coaches and train the girl’s varsity team for a week. We are also in the process of organising a trip to Nairobi where we would collaborate with numerous local NGOs who share our dream of eradicating discrimination and inequality in sports. Tackling Inequality is a club founded by three seniors and a teacher at St Stephen’s with a strong passion for football. The idea for the club originated early last summer before the Women’s Worldcup when a report was published revealing the staggering difference between the prize money for the winner of the women’s World Cup ($30 million) and the men’s World Cup ($400 million). The students decided to take a stance by bringing awareness to sexism in sports and the crucial role the youth plays in making a difference. Today the club deals with a wide range of matters linked to sports and is looking for innovative ideas to help it on its mission. If you are interested or know anyone who may be interested in joining Tacking Inequality because they feel they want to help make a difference by either participating or donating please contact us at tacklinginequalityrome@gmail.com. St Stephen's School, Via Aventina 3, tel. 065750605, www.sssrome.it.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 53

Rome’s street artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant important street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing themost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino murals Murals byby alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, gio Gio Pistone, nicola Pistone, Nicola alessandrini, Alessandrini, diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza fanti 47. Piazzamafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi the The m.a.g.R. M.A.G.R. (museo (Museo abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory via antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio Avogaavogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sostiense’s landmark landmark gasometro. details see Gasometro. For for details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the this outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of the them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e museo dell’altro e dell’altrove dell’Altroveor dimaam, Metropoliz, or MAAM, metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio edoardo kobra,Edoardo gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See sten&lex, Pablo and echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. see maam facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto fronte del Porto by Blu. via del Fluviale. Porto fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via fish’n’kids by agostino iacurci. via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Wall of fluviale. Fame by JB Rock. Via dei wall of fame by JB Rock. via dei Magazzini Generali. magazzini Shelley by generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, shelley by ozmo. ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, via ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, via ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by maupal, mr. klevra and omino 71.

54 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

via Via fanfulla Fanfulla da da lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on via Fortebraccio. fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by sten Blu landscape Landscape by Sten & & lex. Lex. via Via francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati anna magnaniportrait portrait by diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo nuovo mercatoViatrionfale, via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. andrea doria. daniza the bear by Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. Roa. via sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via the Roadkill by fintan magee. via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo numai. the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing theseus stabbing the Bembo. minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio tunnel byMure. mr thoms and Pistone. murals Via Decio gio decio mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe via by Lucamaleonte. nido didel vespe by lucamaleonte. via Monte Grano. del monte Baby Hulkdel bygrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby Pisonihulk 89. by Ron english. via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via murals by Blu. via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. welcome to Rebibbia by zerocalcare. Metro B station. metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on sanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of s.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's italianLiqen. artistsViaagostino alongside Maiolati, iacurci, hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, spain’s Via Treia.liqen. via maiolati, via osimo, via Recanati, via arcevia, via treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. totti mural by lucamaleonte. via apulia corner of via farsalo.

it’s aa New newDay daybyby alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via via anton ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. alicePasquini. Pasquini. viaSabelli. dei sabelli. Alice Via dei feminicidemural mural elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.via dei sardi. Borondo. Via viadei deiVolsci volsci159. 159. Borondo. mural by by Agostino agostinoIacurci iacurci on Mural on the the istituto superiore di Lattanzio, vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio lattanzio, via aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo ii. stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di s. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. monte del gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments Alicevia Pasquini, Via hunted wolf bybyRoa. galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #kindComments by alice Pasquini, via volta, testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. dulk. via antonio tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico etnik.Break viabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by etam Cru. via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio ludovico Serbelloni. tom sawyer by Jef aerosol. via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema gabrio serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by diavù. former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo impero, via acqua Bullicante. Alessi. hostia by nicola verlato. via Herakut. Via Capua 14. galeazzo alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. herakut. via Capua 14. agostino iacurci. via muzio oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internathe Big City artists life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall murals by 22 italian and Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of mr klevra, seth, gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via theMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. via tor marancia. for full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

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Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ January 2020 | 55

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ag By Kate Z

PIZZA MARGHERITA

HOW TO MAKE GREAT PIZZA AT HOME Making your own pizza from scratch is a surefire way to impress and is a fun activity to do with friends and family. This recipe is a simple way to make great pizza at home using a domestic kitchen oven and, while the result may not be exactly like a real Roman pizzeria, it allows you to unleash your creativity and add whatever toppings you choose. Although the process of making the dough and leaving it to rise takes a while, this can be done in advance, so the actual topping and cooking of the pizza takes a matter of minutes. Cooking the base by itself for a few minutes before turning it over and adding the toppings will ensure a crunchy, non-soggy, crust, as will draining as much liquid as possible out of the mozzarella before using. The quantities below will make enough pizza for about 4 people, but you can use whatever size and shape of metal baking tin you have at home.

For the base: 500g flour 00 1 x 7g sachet of dried yeast 3 pinches of salt 1 pinch of sugar 350ml water Extra virgin olive oil

For the topping: 4 x 250g balls of mozzarella (fior di latte) 1 large jar of tomato passata Fresh basil leaves Sieve the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast, salt and sugar and pour in the water. Mix everything together with a fork, once the dough starts to come together, tip it onto a floured board or work surfaced. Continue to knead with your hands, constantly pushing the dough back onto itself, until you have a soft, elastic consistency. If the dough is too wet, add a little flour; if it is too dry add a little more water or a drop of olive oil. In a clean bowl pour in about 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Place the ball of dough into the bowl, cover with plastic cling film and put the bowl into the oven (turned off) or a dark cupboard. Leave it to prove for at least 3 hours until the dough has doubled in size. Once the dough has risen, tip it back onto a floured surface along with the oil. Knead it well until the texture is smooth and soft. Divide the dough into pieces (the size depends on the baking tins you have and how thick you want the base of your pizza) and leave it to rest while you prepare the topping. Turn the oven on to heat to its highest temperature. Pour the passata into a bowl, add a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and mix well. Cut the mozzarella into cubes and use your hands to squeeze out as much liquid as possible to ensure that the pizza will not be soggy. Grease the baking tins with olive oil. Push the dough into the tins using your hands, try not to create any holes. Put the pizza into the lowest part of the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes then turn the base over in the tin. Spread the passata over the pizza and add some mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil then place the pizza back into the low shelf of the oven for about 5 more minutes until the edges are crispy and the mozzarella has melted. Add a few fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.

Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461. Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696. Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338. ‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326.

Indirizzi

Queen Makeda, Via di S. Saba 11, tel. 065759608.

Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707. Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243. Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199. Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608. Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961. Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971. Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945. Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.

58 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Where to brunch in Rome Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes. QUEEN MAKEDA GRAND PUB Each Sunday Queen Makeda offers an international brunch of dishes from the wok, noodles, salads, eggs, homemade tarts, vegetables, baked potatoes, artisan sausages and wurstel. There’s also the option of a British-style Sunday roast lunch, which includes beef, chicken, lamb, pork and Yorkshire puddings. Don’t miss the desserts, the 40 different craft beers available, the juices and the tasty nonalcoholic drinks. On the children’s menu (there’s also a supervised kids’ play area) you’ll find burgers, chips, tomato pasta and hot dogs. Sun 12.30-16.00. COROMANDEL Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00. DOLCE For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00. KETUMBAR Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ‘NA COSETTA In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00. CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

ATLAS COELESTIS Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30. PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ROSTI AL PIGNETO If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. DOPPIOZERO Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. MISTO Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30. IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30. MAVI At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different – part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.

www.puntarellarossa.it Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 59

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In an ever growing global community, health care is not limited to a person's home country: people from every culture can find what they need to feel themselves at home in Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome

Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | January 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • January 2020 | 63

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