Wanted in Rome - July and August 2022 by Wanted in Rome

WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS +WHAT'SON TH E ENGLI S H L A NG U A G E M A G A Z IN E I N RO M E babin.dS.talianePosteIp.a.Spe.post.DL353/2003(Conv.inL27/02/2004N.46)art.1comma1Aut.C/RM/04/2013-Anno14,Numero8SEPTEMBER 2022 | 2,00€ 00008

WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS +WHAT'SON TH E ENGLI S H L A NG U AG E M AG A Z IN E N RO M E abinS.talianeeos.a.SpeposDL353/2003Cvin27/02/2004N.46)ommaC/RM/04/2013Anno14,NumeSEPTEMBER 2022 2,00 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/08/2022 CURRENTLY SUSPENDED Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 27 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. www.wantedinmilan.comwww.wantedinrome.comeditorial@wantedinrome.comadvertising@wantedinrome.com066867967 CONTENTS Arco degli WatercolourAcetariandinkByAndyDevane EDITORIALS MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON 4. DOMITIAN: A ‘BAD’ MartinREHABILITATED?EMPERORBennett 8. TOURISTS BEHAVING BADLY IN ITALY Andy Devane 12. ENGLISH ABOOKSHOPSLANGUAGEINROME:QUICKGUIDE 14. guide to Beaches near ROME 15. TOP 10 OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME 16. ROME FOR children 18. STREET ART guide 20. MUSEUMS 24. ART GALLERIES 40. CULTURAL VENUES 45. RECIPE 46. puntarella rossa 48. USEFUL NUMBERS 29. EXHIBITIONS 34. Festivals 36. OPERA 38. ART NEWS

4 DOMITIAN: A ‘BAD’ REHABILITATED?EMPEROR 34 festivals 29 EXHIBITIONS 8 TOURISTS BEHAVING BADLY IN ITALY CONTENTS

DOMITIAN: A ‘BAD’ REHABILITATED?EMPERORMartinBennett History

The Capitoline Museums hosts an exhibition entitled Domiziano Imperatore. Odio e amore at Villa Caffarelli.

4 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome

‘Woe is me, I think I am becoming a god,’ complained the famously down-to-earth Vespasian on his deathbed. On loan from the Farnese collection in Naples and here occupying about ten metres of wall space, the head of the same ‘divinised’ emperor and founder of the Flavian dynasty is a central exhibit of an enthralling new show in the Capitoline Museums. If anything, the ‘caput’ is bigger than that of Constantine in the museum courtyard below. And is equally intact. Except above the forehead has, somewhere in history, been neatly sliced off, so the rest of the head could be used as a basin: Look for the hole drilled through the ear.

And why no giant head for Domitian? The reason is in the damnatio memoriae in the reign of his successor, the emperor Nerva. As here, several heads of Domitian do survive, but each a tenth or less the size of his father’s (Vespasian) or his brother (Titus). Proving that damnatio memoriae, given the thousands of heads ordered then sent throughout the empire, was only partial. Sheer numbers of them in circulation is one explanation. The same with coins, one here showing Domitian’s face rubbed out, another coin intact. Another factor was that defacement would decrease their worth. Also there’s the sheer effort involved. Penn Museum in Pennsylvania hosts a plaque to Domitian where the first line of lettering is erased, the following

ROME EXHIBITION ATTEMPTS TO RE-DIMENSION THE LIFE AND DEATH OF DOMITIAN, LAST OF THE FLAVIAN EMPERORS (81-96 AD)

Most damning of all is Juvenal who renames Domitian the “bald Nero”. The poet’s Satire IV accuses him of filling his court with foreigners and upstarts. Still more repulsive is Satire II’s accusation of Domitian’s temporarily abandoning his wife Domitia for Julia, his niece, then forcing on her an abortion from which she died. ‘… his too-fertile niece gobbled pills, brought on an abortion,/ and every embryo lump was the living spit of Uncle.’* Meanwhile, compounding the crime, the same emperor continued to issue moralistic decrees, one condemning a vestal virgin to be bricked up alive for an affair with a secret lover. At the cost of being an imperial lickspittle, Martial is an exception for faithfully portraying Domitian’s virtue. Then would come the early Christian writers reviling Domitian for exiling John the Divine to Patmos in the Aegean, sentencing him to be boiled in oil, an ordeal from which Foxe’s Book of Martyrs says John miraculously escaped. Petrarch writes of “Titus, the good and handsome son” and Domitian “the bad and handsome one.” Centuries later Gian Battisti Lilli publishes a poem called Domitian the fly-killer, referring to one of the emperor’s favourite hobbies. After so many allegations, fake or otherwise, it is a relief to find oneself back in the realm of permanent objects. And, rare in any exhibition, in situ: the 15 rooms /chapters of the Villa Caffarelli part of the museum match the spot where Domitian built the Temple to Capitoline Jove. This to thank the god for protection afforded him when as a boy, disguised as a priest of Isis, he was able to escape the invading troops of his father’s rival, Vitellius. Also in thanks, he built another temple to Isis nearby, since supplanted by the S. Maria in Aracoeli church, and from which comes a suitably votive plaque to the same goddess. And a couple of rooms deal with just that, Domitianbuildings. finished the Colosseum, inaugurated by Titus in 80 AD. Yes, “blood and circuses”, one might point a finger, and a way of enhancing his autocratic image. Human rights activists might call out Diocletian’s penchant for “pitting women against dwarves”, animal conservationists lament his first introducing a rhinoceros who “tossed bulls around like balls” to rephrase a Martial epigram. But then he also built in the Campo Marzio his eponymous Circus for less Bronze bust of Domitian with acanthus leaves, from the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek collection, Copenhagen.

Photo: Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek.

Wanted in Rome • September 2022 | 5 lines only partly so as the ancient workmen grew tired. Or maybe their chisels broke? Then, come references to Domitian in Egyptian hieroglyphs, still untouched thanks to the limitations in his opponent’s language skills. But back to commemorative heads. Fished up from the Tiber there is one of verdant copper small enough to fit inside the palm of one’s hand, presumably thrown there to meet the senate’s decree. The one truly monumental-size statue doing Domitian honour is a 2.5m-high silky basalt baby Hercules complete with leonine head-dress. The ecstatic statue-felling senators vividly described by Pliny the Younger must have overlooked Diocletian’s order that the statue’s face be modelled on his own. So Diocletian has gone down in history as one of the ten worst emperors, a byword for random cruelty, paranoia and a ratbag of other vices.

Historian/gossip monger Suetonius, writing under “a good emperor” Hadrian, explains Domitian’s character along the same lines as he had previously used for Caligula. Id est. Domitian starts out as the senate’s “bonus princeps” whose reddish complexion was seen as a sign of youthful modesty, but ends up a monster as power and suspicion get the better (or worse) of him. That imperial blush, to another writer, signaled nothing but shame. Dio Cassius, an exsenator writing in Greek, Pliny and the historian Tacitus are all loath to concede that Domitian had any good qualities at all. Tacitus implicates the emperor in Julius Agricola’s death, though this might be balanced by the more concrete fact that Agricola, ex-governor of Britain, was the historian’s father-in-law.

War was another source of expense and, particularly when no victory ensued, of grievance.

Worse still, writes Dio Cassius, Domitian awarded himself a triumph, showing off not real booty but furniture previously stored in his palace, actors replacing actual captives. He did manage to maintain the soldiery’s loyalty with an across the board pay-rise, a favour which legions in the east would repay after his death by deifying his memory, not damning it.

*Translation by Peter Jones, ‘Juvenal, the Sixteen Satires’, Penguin Classics **Translation by Martin Bennett

6 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome gory athletics competitions, plus the Odeon, for poetry and music. Evidence perhaps that Domitian was not all bad is the funeral plaque to Q. Sulpicius Maximus, died aged 11, and 94 AD winner of the Greek poetry contest. Of the Odeon remain a few stones in the façade of Villa Massimo on Corso Vittorio Emanuele. To the Domitian’s Circus we also owe Piazza Navona. The above-mentioned Temples; the Palatine Palace, its ornate masonry, some fragments on display here, giving rise to a genre since called “Flavian Baroque”; roads restored and, in the case of Via Domitiana, built from scratch; a new Forum Transitorium, now named after Domitian’s successor Nerva, but as the marks on bricks in its basement prove actually founded by Domitian before damnatio memoriae and the rest caught up with him: All of these could rank Domitian as a latterday Augustus. Along with so many new archways one a witty graffiti objects ‘apkei’/enough, transcribed into Latin as ‘arci’/arches. Vaingloriousness perhaps, but also a way of repairing the damage from fires under Nero and in, 80 AD, Titus. The senators were also unimpressed. Some were ready to admit Domitian’s ability as an administrator and even praise Domitian for preventing inflation by maintaining a constant amount of silver in the currency, yet, in embarking on so many building projects, he over-reached himself. Already ‘hated’ by the senate, he first began targeting critical senators with exile and confiscations, then in up to 40 cases had them put to death, also as means of raising money.

While Domitian managed to consolidate the defensive line against the Germans, awarding himself the title of ‘Germanicus’ – a containment policy later pursued by Hadrian to generally agreed optimal effect, his campaign against the Dacians involved not enriching Rome but buying the enemy off.

And thus to ‘Flavian women’, one of the show’s penultimate rooms/chapters: there is Julia, Domitian’s niece. And there, twice, in Domitia, both in the most spectacular of hairdos. And there is an excavated hairpin to help the whole architecture in place. And there, on the wall, is Juvenal to satirise them. A modernday misogynist may think ‘hyper-symmetrical fusilli or ‘tortellini’. Juvenal from his infamously misogynistic Satire VI commentates: ‘So numerous the tiers and storeys you might take her for another Andromarque;/ she was so tall behind; you would not think her the same person…’ *A modern equivalent of high-heels then?

Again, considering Domitia’s rumoured involvement in her husband’s murder, love or hate is the motif, reflecting Catullus’s ‘I love and I hate, made an oxymoron/ of my former self, tormentedly your own.’** Whatever, many of the exhibits are stunning, as is their presentation. Otherwise random objects get ordered skilfully into a story. History’s partialities, if not reversed, are at least re-dimensioned by solid artefacts: from northern Iran a mirror inscribed with the balding emperor’s quip that hair, like grass, does not last; from Munich a votive stone to Helios, its mention of Domitian chipped off; then from a ditch in Holland a cavalry-man’s bronze mask.

The exhibition, titled Domiziano Imperatore. Odio e amore, can be visited at Villa Caffarelli, Musei Capitolini, until 29 Jan 2023. Marble portrait of a female figure (“Dama Fonseca”), Capitoline Museums, © Roma Capitale, Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali (Photo Zeno Colantoni).

he tourism industry in Italy is booming this summer, after two difficult years due to the covid-19 pandemic, as numbers begin to approach pre-pandemic levels. However the full-scale return of foreign visitors brings with it a flurry of “bad news” stories, lapped up by the international media, of tourists behaving badly in Italy.

Tourists return to Rome and other Italian cities en masse this summer. Photo: Spanish Steps, credit: lornet/Shutterstock.com.

The latest string of incidents, which occurred largely over the summer months, was preceded on 22 April when two Dutch tourists took a quick afternoon dip in the Trevi Fountain. Afterwards the men, both in their 30s, mingled in the crowds in an unsuccessful attempt to evade police who fined them a total of €1,000.

Travel

Things stepped up a gear on 10 May when a Saudi tourist drove a Maserati down the Spanish Steps, IN ITALY COINCIDES WITH NEGATIVE HEADLINES TOURISTS BEHAVINGINBADLYITALYAndyDevane

8 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome TOURISM SURGE

During the same period an Argentinian tourist was fined after he crashed his drone into the roof of Palazzo Venezia in Rome’s city centre, days after Mexican tourists hit the Leaning Tower of Pisa with a drone.

Two Australian tourists made world headlines in August after they were filmed surfing down the Grand Canal in Venice.

On 10 June, the Spanish Steps were back in the news again when a 28-year-old American tourist flung an electric scooter down the marble staircase in an apparent fit of anger. The latenight incident was filmed by a passerby and the footage quickly went viral.

damaging the Baroque staircase. The motorist, described by local media as a 37-year-old Saudi businessman, had been in the capital on vacation.

“Yes, it was me who drove the car down the Spanish Steps” – the man told Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera – “I just took a wrong turn”. He added that he didn’t think the incident was “so serious” but pledged that he was “ready to face his Theresponsibilities”.manfacescharges of aggravated damage to a cultural heritage site, in addition to an undisclosed and risks court proceedings in Italy.

10 days after the Spanish Steps incident it was once again the turn of the old favourite of tourists misbehaving in Rome – the Trevi Fountain. A 26-year-old Spanish tourist received a €450 fine after Rome police caught him swimming around in the fountain’s waters at dawn.

The damage caused by his “wrong turn” was repaired subsequently by experts from Rome’s superintendence of cultural heritage.

The driver tried to reverse back up the steps, then called a tow truck, before managing to get the car back onto the road with the help of some passersby. He left Rome and continued his Italian holiday in the Maserati which he had rented from a dealer in Milan, where police caught up with him.

9 Travel

Italian media reported at the time that the tourist had caused €25,000 worth of damage to Rome’s Spanish Steps which underwent a €1.5 million restoration by luxury fashion house Bvlgari in 2015.

The woman was in the company of a 29-yearold American man who was filmed wheeling his e-scooter down the 18th-century staircase. The pair were fined €400 each and received a temporary ban from returning to the Baroque landmark. It was reported subsequently that the woman could face legal proceedings in Italy.

The next month, on 10 July, saw a 23-year-old American tourist fall into the crater of Mount Vesuvius, the volcano looming over Naples, Wanted in Rome • September 2022 |

10 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome while taking a selfie. The incident occurred after the tourist and three of his relatives decided to bypass the visitor entrance to the volcano and take a forbidden route to the summit.

The man, who fell several metres into the crater after losing his balance, was rescued by carabinieri and received treatment for his light injuries from emergency services. The tourist and his family were then reported by police, along with two other visitors, for taking the prohibited route which was clearly marked as highly dangerous and out-of-bounds.

Two days later Rome police caught up with a 30-year-old Canadian tourist after she used a stone to carve the initials of her name into an external wall of the Colosseum. The woman was stopped by Colosseum staff who notified the carabinieri after witnessing the vandalism taking place. The tourist, who reportedly expressed regret for her actions, was cited for causing damage to a monument of historical and cultural Perhapsimportance.the most unfortunate tourist mishap occurred in Rome on 24 July, in the middle of a heatwave, when a British visitor was fined €500 for dipping his feet in the boat-shaped Barcaccia fountain near the base of the Spanish Steps. The tourist, aged 42, was caught in the act by police who in addition to the hefty fine issued the man with a temporary daspo ban from returning to the area.

Later in the month, on 30 July, three German tourists were fined more than €1,500 for bathing in Bernini’s Tritone fountain in the central Piazza Barberini. The incident occurred late at night after the three men were caught splashing about in their underwear in the 17th-century fountain.

On 11 August police in Pompeii apprehended a 33-year-old Australian tourist driving a rental moped around the archaeological park. The man had entered the site through the Porta Vesuvio gate and was stopped by the carabinieri who cited him for unauthorised access. Management at Pompeii clarified later that the incident involved the tourist travelling on external dirt roads – normally used by service vehicles – and not within the walls of the ancient city.

The latest high-profile incident this summer happened in Venice over the Ferragosto holiday in mid-August when two men were filmed speeding down the Grand Canal on motorised surf boards. Footage of the surreal incident was published on the Twitter page of Venice’s mayor Luigi Brugnaro who offered dinner to whoever could identify the two “arrogant idiots” in the video. The men were subsequently identified as two Australian tourists who were fined €1,500 each and “expelled” from the city. Their boards, valued at around €25,000 were confiscated too. It is unclear if anyone got the mayor’s free dinner. On 10 May a Saudi tourist drove a Maserati down the Spanish Steps.

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UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1 JANUARY 2021? Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card. Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

The little reader This children’s English bookshop in the Esquilino area of Rome stocks books from babies to teens in English and Italian. It also has a cafe and garden and offers a regular programme of literary events and activities for children in English. Via Conte Verde 66b, tel. www.thelittlereader.it.0687784678, 12 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome Rome has a handful of bookshops stocking exclusively English language titles in addition to larger Italian stores with small sections dedicated to books in English. Here is our list of the main bookshops offering a range of books in English, from antique to new titles.

ALMOST

Almost Corner Bookshop

Anglo American Centrally located near the Spanish steps, the Anglo American Bookshop carries exclusively books in English but on request can order books in other languages. The shop has recently moved, just down the street. Via della Vite 27, tel. 066795222, www.aab.it.

Open Door

Otherwise Rome’s newest independent English-language bookshop stocks North American editions of novels, non-fiction titles, essay collections and literary journals in English, in addition to hosting cultural events. Via del Governo Vecchio 80, 066879825, www.otherwisebookstore.com.

ANGLOBOOKSHOPAMERICAN

The Almost Corner Bookshop in Trastevere has a wide selection of fiction works and also carries books on Roman history, art, archaeology, culture, poetry and many other subjects. Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942.

The Open Door Bookshop is a small shop that specialises in buying and selling quality second-hand and antique books in English, Italian, French, German and Spanish, as well as some new books. Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com.

LITERATURE LANGUAGE BOOKSHOPS IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE CORNER

ENGLISH

THE LITTLE

OPENOTHERWISEREADERDOOR

Wanted in Rome • September 2022 | IB WORLD SCHOOL A rewarding international education. Ages 2 to 18. Request information! +39 06 84482 651 romeinternationalschool.it

BEACHES NEAR ROME TOP 10 Beaches

S. MARINELLA

ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping rst at Anzio ( Blue Flag 2022) and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, o ers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We also highlight the beaches that have been awarded Bandiera Blu (Blue Flag) status in 2022 for meeting the international quality standards for cleanliness.

FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to ock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

GAETA This area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get o at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it. Blue Flag 2022.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get o at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Blue Flag 2022.

Sabaudia S. Marinella

OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli o er free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get o at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussoli ni-era architecture. Blue Flag 2022. S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it de nitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get o at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Blue Flag 2022.

The northern-most beach on our list o ers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers. Blue Flag 2022. S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get o at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Blue Flag 2022.

5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool o ering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 10.00-18.30. Three time slots 10.00-14.00, 12.00-16.30, 14.00-18.30. Adults €9 (per time slot), kids €6. Full day adults €12, kids €8. Sat-Sun 09.00-19.30. Time slots 09.00-14.00, 14.30-19.30 (Sat only 12.00-16.30). €11 adults, €9 kids. Full day adults €16, kids €12. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

Pools

7. HYDROMANIA

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Fri €45, Sat-Sun €50. 10- entry subscription €300. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovan di.com. €€€€ 2. BELLE ARTI Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat-Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellear ti.it. €€ 3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-with-a-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily. Weekdays €80 (adults) & €40 (children 6-11 years). Sat-Sun and bank holidays €115 (adults) & €57.50 (children 6-11 years). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

9. HOTEL ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIDI

All-inclusive treatment at an enviable location in the heart of Rome. A tranquil rooftop pool overlooks Piazza della Repubblica. Access to the gorgeous pool requires booking a spa package that comes with a 50-minute massage. Daily 10.00-19.00. €150 per person. Piazza della Repubblica 47, tel. 06489381.

TOP 10 Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately-owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Open daily 10.00-18.30. Mon-Fri €10, €8 half-day, weekends €11, €9 half-day. Kids 4-8 years €8 per day. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. € Hotel Anantara Palazzo Naidi cream weekdays (Gianicolo), Hydromania

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €35, weekend rate €50. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

Piscina delle rose

OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Paci c-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.00. Daily adult rate €25, kids up to 12 years €15. Half day rate €15. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€ 8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Open daily 9.00- 19.00. Mon-Fri €12, €10 half- day, weekends €20, €16 half-day). Kids 3-12 years €8 per day. Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00. Weekdays €13, half-day €9, weekends €20, half-day €13. Kids 3-6 years €6. Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalot ta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekfor kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandse ekforkids.com.

Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Bowling Silvestri is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casina di Ra aello Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pincia na), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it. 16 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torri no/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gym bo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but someti mes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Wanted in Rome • September 2022 Cinecittà World is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-eleva tor.it.

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Time Elevator

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoo marine.it.

Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazio neilnido.it.

Rainbow Magicland e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

18 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. S. Basilio SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenera tion project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Esquilino Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and interna tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals. Esquilino Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47. Marconi

Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca. Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Borondo.Sardi.Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Herakut.Alessi. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com. Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fish’n’KidsFluviale.by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca. Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station. S. Basilio SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio PasoliniSerbelloni.byDiavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avoga dro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

20 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsi ni.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoro ma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeo logia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.benicul turali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed. ViaMAXXIGuido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantan gelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colos seo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it.0639967700,Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.be niculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

CITY ViaCentraleMUSEUMSMontemartiniOstiense106,tel.060608, www.centralemontemarti ni.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoli ne Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleo nico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napole on and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

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Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. Chiostro Del Bramante Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. PalazzoDoriawww.chiostrodelbramante.it.0668809035PamphiljGalleryDoriaPamphilj,ViadelCorso

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitoli ni.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galle riacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. Giorgio de Chirico House Museum Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechiri co.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-hou se.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. Museo storico della Liberazione Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00. Palazzo Merulana Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed. Wanted in Rome • September 2022

Villa Farnesina Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

ViaMACRONizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon PiazzaMATTATOIOclosed.Orazio

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museoca nonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria della Well-establishedTartarugagallerythat has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il PrestigiousSegnogallery showing work by major Italia and interna tional artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY ART

Franz GalleryPaludettoinS.Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, ThisFruttawww.franzpaludetto.com.contemporaryartgallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

ROME’S

Fondazione ContemporaryMemmoartspace that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

ExhibitionGALLA space designed to showcase original, unconven tional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, GalleryGalleriawww.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.AlessandroBonomoshowingtheworksofimportant Italian and interna tional visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, LocatedGalleriawww.bonomogallery.com.ValentinaBonomoinaformerconvent,this gallery hosts both interna tionally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircus ThisExgallery.com.Elettrofonicaarchitecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contem porary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. Contemporary-maam.it.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazi onevolume.com.

1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and interna tional contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M.

GALLERIES 24 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Cluster Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com. CulturalC.R.E.T.A.association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

TRANSFORMINGTHEWORLDTHROUGHEDUCATION Well-being Leader inCurriculumInternationalWorldTechnologyClass Global Citizenship Forest School Via di Villa Lauchli 180, 00191 Rome Tel: +39 06 362 www.marymountrome.comadmissions@marymountrome.com91012 - Since 1946 -

MAXXI amazes you, always art architecture design photography cinema

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, TheT293www.galleriasales.it.Romebranchof this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, Thewww.t293.it.Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

ThisWunderkammerngallerypromotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunder Z20kammern.net.GalleriaSara Zanin Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • September 2022 | 27

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of internatio nal artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Sala 1

Pian de Giullari Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, CulturalPluswww.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.ArtePulsassociationandgalleryshowing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

ContemporaryTraleVolte art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.ma

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

RvB Rome-basedARTS gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contem porary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. S.T. Foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contem porary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

White Noise Gallery Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits uncon ventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418,

Poured Staircase is part of the Crazy exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. See page 32.

where to go in WHAT’SRomeON

DOMIZIANO IMPERATORE: ODIO E AMORE 13 JULY- 29

Galleria Borghese presents Tiziano: Dialoghi di Natura e di Amore, an exhibition of paintings by Titian. Curated by Maria Giovanna Sarti, the exhibition is centred around the Nymph and Shepherd, painted by the Venetian Master around 1565, on loan from the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna as part of a cultural exchange programme between the two institutions. This painting will be exhibited alongside other Titian works in the Borghese collection, including Sacred and Profane Love, painted circa 1514 early in the artist’s career. Galleria Borghese says the exhibition will examine some of Titian’s “constant themes”, including nature, love, and time. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.www.

TITIAN: DIALOGUES OF NATURE AND LOVE 14 JUNE-18 SEPT

EXHIBITIONS

The Fondazione Alda FendiEsperimenti stages a multimedia exhibition centred around a painting by Picasso at its Rhinoceros Gallery in Rome. The oil on canvas painting, titled Le peintre et son modèle en plein air, dates from 1963 and comes from the collection of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Never shown in Rome before, the work is central to the exhibition Picasso va, Picasso arriva which takes place across all floors of Palazzo Rhinoceros, located beside the Arch of Janus near the Circus Maximus. The exhibition’s title is a reference to Picasso’s Young Lucio Dalla exhibition at Ara Pacis. Photo M. Viola, Archivio fotografico Pressing Line.

PICASSO AT RHINOCEROS

30 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome LUCIO DALLA 22 SEPT-6

JAN Villa Caffarelli at the Capitoline Museums stages an exhibition dedicated to Domitian, the last emperor of the Flavian dynasty, a complex character who was both loved and hated in life and in death. The exhibition, organised in collaboration with the Rijksmuseum in Holland, comprises almost 100 works, many of which are on loan from important international and Italian museums. On display are artefacts including marble and bronze busts of imperial figures and gods, marble elements of architectural decoration, and small objects in gold and bronze. See feature article page 3. Villa Caffarelli, Musei Capitolini, www. museicapitolini.org.

JAN Rome’s Ara Pacis museum will pay homage to the late Italian singer-songwriter Lucio Dalla with a major exhibition dedicated to his life and career. The show, held on the 10th anniversary of Dalla’s death, will trace the “human and artistic journey of one of the most beloved Italian and international artists”. On display will be documents, photographs, record covers, stage costumes, video footage and memorabilia including his extensive collection of hats. Dalla is best remembered as the composer of Caruso, the 1986 hit subsequently covered by artists including Luciano Pavarotti and Julio Iglesias. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

GALLERY 10 JUNE-16 OCT

DISNEY: THE ART OF STORYTELLING

GIANNI BERENGO GARDIN

4 MAY-18 SEPT Rome’s MAXXI celebrates the legendary Italian photojournalist Gianni Berengo Gardin with an exhibition of 150 photographs. Titled The eye as vocation, the show is described by MAXXI as a “unique visual heritage” that spans from the post-war period up to the present day. Berengo Gardin, aged 92, was present at the inauguration of the exhibition which is curated by Margherita Guccione and Alessandra Mauro. The black and white photographs on show include his most famous as well as some lesser-known and previously unpublished images, and reflect the photographer’s wide-ranging career. The exhibition highlights the distinctive features of Berengo Gardin’s research, including people and the various spaces they occupy in society, as well as his reportage photography for iconic Italian companies. Central themes of the images on display include industry, workers’ struggles, psychiatric hospitals, gypsies, Venice, the earthquake-hit L’Aquila, and everyday life. Museo nazionale delle arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.

15 APRIL-25 SEPT Palazzo Barberini stages an exhibition dedicated to Disney, the world’s most famous animation studios. The interactive show displays original Disney sketches from hand-drawn classics from the 1930s up to modern-day sequences created using the most sophisticated digital technology. The exhibition highlights Disney’s extraordinary ability to translate literature into moving images, tracing the immortal stories back to the myths and children’s fairy tales of yesteryear. The show provides insights into the artistic production of timeless characters and classic movies such as Snow White, The Little Mermaid, Fantasia and Pinocchio, as well as the films’ much-loved soundtracks. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. mostradisneyroma.it.

L’ELEFANTE E IL COLLE PERDUTO 8 APRIL-2 OCT

An exhibition at Trajan’s Markets recalls how the skull and left tusk of an extinct elephant species were discovered during excavations to make way for Via dell’Impero in 1932. The fossilised remains belonged to a straight-tusked elephant (Palaeoloxodon antiquus) a prehistoric species that roamed Europe and western Asia during the Ice Age. The surprise discovery came about during frantic works to bulldoze a path through the Velia or Velian hill – a spur between the Oppian Hill and the north side of the Palatine –as part of Mussolini’s plans to connect the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. The rushed nature of the excavation meant the almost total loss of the garden of Villa Rivaldi, a Renaissance-era palace whose grounds stretched as far as the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. Cutting through the Velia yielded rich archaeological finds from the Roman era, in particular the remains of a domus with wellpreserved frescoes and numerous Le peintre et son modèle en plein air (1963) by Picasso at Palazzo Rhinoceros. Collection Intesa Sanpaolo.

Wanted in Rome • September 2022 | 31 Woman (1909) which was granted on loan to Palazzo Rhinoceros from the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg and ended up at the centre of debate in the aftermath of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. The Picasso exhibition can be visited for free – with reservations required – see website for details. Fondazione Alda Fendi - Esperimenti, Via del Velabro 9, esperimenti.it.www.fondazionealdafendi-

OCT Under the title “The government of Rome before Caesar”, this exhibition at the Capitoline Museums aims to illustrate the political roles that formed the backbone of the power system that governed Rome in the Republican age. The artefacts on display, examining the life of patricians as well as plebeians, are explained by “talking statues” in each room. For visiting details see website, www.museicapitolini.org.

GOOD NEWS: WOMEN IN ARCHITECTURE

16 DEC-11 SEPT Rome’s MAXXI documents the growing presence of women, collectives and studio couples in the architectural profession as it shakes off the 20th-century stereotype of the architect of the charismatic (male) grandmaster. The exhibition examines how new figures are infusing new forces into contemporary architecture, with a particular focus on the work of international studios directed or co-chaired by female designers. MAXXI, which was designed by the celebrated Zaha Hadid, pays tribute in the show to architects including Charlotte Perriand, Elizabeth Dillerand and Frida Escobedo alongside a series of video interviews. Museo nazionale delle arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.

CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART 18 FEB-8 JAN Chiostro del Bramante presents a large-scale exhibition project curated by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists fill the venue’s internal and external spaces “because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, features 11 site-specific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

CURSUS HONORUM 24 MARCH-2

L'elefante e il colle perduto at Trajan's Markets. O. FERRETTI, Demolizioni per l'apertura di via dell’Impero con i resti dell'elefante preistorico, olio su cartone (1932) Museo di Roma, MR 812 (© Roma - Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali - Museo di Roma).

32 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome statues. The unearthed treasures were collected hastily and crated off to city warehouses. The most surprising discovery was made on 20 May 1932, when numerous fossilised remains came to light, among them the elephant skull and tusk. The remains of the elephant are on display alongside archaeological finds, archive film footage and large watercolours of the Villa Rivaldi garden, painted before it was lost forever. Trajan’s Markets, on Via IV Novembre 94, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

Shaping the worldAn inBritishoutstandingEducationtheSouthofRome Students from � to �� Enrolling now for September �� (+��) �� VIA TELECLIDE ��, ��, ROME. SOUTHLANDS.IT S ou t h l a nd s ROME BR I T I S H I NTE R N AT I O N A L S C H O O L

10 JUNE-16 OCT

34 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome ROMAEUROPA

FLOATING THEATRE 24 AUG-25 SEPT

The Floating Theatre festival of open-air cinema returns to Rome this summer, swapping its former location in EUR for the laghetto in Villa Ada. The festival, now in its third edition, will host screenings each night from 20.30. Guests will be provided with wireless headphones and there will be 150 seats available. Tickets, including booking fee, cost €7.50 and must be purchased via the website.

Floating Theatre will communicate any cancellations due to weather at 18.00, on the day in question, via its website and social media channels. To consult the programme see website - www.floatingtheatre.itwith access to Villa Ada from Via di Ponte Salario 28.

SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE

Last year the Globe Theatre was renamed after Proietti, the muchloved actor, director and comedian who died in November 2020 on his 80th birthday. The decision was taken in collaboration with the Silvano Toti Foundation, which financed the theatre’s construction in 2003, with the building now titled the Gigi Proietti Globe Theatre Silvano Toti. Built in just three months, the theatre was the result of an idea by Proietti who directed and performed in the festival every year until his death. The building is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. For details see www.globetheatreroma.com.website,

Earlier this year the Italian composer Nicola Piovani was named artistic director of Rome’s Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese, succeeding the late Gigi Proietti who directed its annual Shakespearean festival for 17 years. Piovani is best known internationally for winning the 1999 Best Original Dramatic Score Oscar for the music in the Roberto Benigni film La Vita è bella. The 2022 programme of the Shakespearean festival, now in its 19th edition, includes Italianlanguage productions such as Il racconto di Riccardo (5-6-19-20 Sept, 3-4 Oct) and Macbeth (2-25 Sept).

Romaeuropasummer.

FEstivalS

Floating Theatre moves to the lake at Villa Ada this Festival. Greco Sholten, We Want It All. Photo (C) Alwin Poiana.

8 SEPT-20 NOV Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival returns with the 37th edition of its annual programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music, technology and events for kids. This year there will be 80 shows taking place in 18 venues across the city, involving more than 400 artists from around the globe. Romaeuropa artistic director Fabrizio Grifasi said the festival would be held with the “clear and determined opposition to all forms of aggression, war, atrocities in Europe and everywhere in the world”, underscoring the firm belief “that a different future is still possible and that it can be built through dialogue and cultural confrontation”. The international programme of live events opens with We Want It All (8-9 Sept) by the Italian-Dutch duo of Emio Greco and Pieter C. Sholten, an “explosive choreographic narrative” that combines “rock and pop ambiances, virtuosity, classicism and bodies in revolt” performed by ICK Dans Amsterdam and the junior company ICK-Next. Other highlights in September include a film festival competition at Villa Medici (14-18 Sept); In C live by Sasha Waltz & Guests / Terry Riley / Ensemble Casella (17-18 Sept); and Any Attempt Will End In Crushed Bodies And Shattered Bones by Jan Martens - Grip / Dance On Ensemble (28-29 Sept). For festival details in English, including programme, venues and tickets, see Romaeuropa website, www.romaeuropa.net.

ALCESTE 4-13 OCT With music by German composer Christoph Willibald Gluck. This production in three acts is conducted by Gianluca Capuano, with direction and choreography by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, with the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma orchestra and chorus and Eastman Ballet Company, Antwerp. A Bayerische Staatsoper production, sung in French with Italian and English surtitles. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it. Alceste at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. Photo Wilfried Hösl.

Eleonora Abbagnato and Rebecca Bianchi in Annonciation by Angelin Preljocaj. Photo Yasuko-Kageyama/Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

SERATA PRELJOCAJ 13-18 SEPT Teatro dell’Opera di Roma starts off the new season with ballet by choreographer Angelin Prejjocal. Annonciation, music Stéphane Roy (Crystal Music) and Antonio Vivaldi (Magnificat), and Nuit Romane, featuring music by Vivaldi, Handel, Rossini, Wagner, Schubert, Bach and Ligeti, with cast Eleonora Abbagnato and Friedemann Vogel. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

36 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome OPERA

Andy DevaneUltima Generazione climate activists at the Scrovegni Chapel.

GUIDED TOURS OF ROME ARCHAEOLOGICAL DIGS

Guided tours of archaeological dig at Largo Corrado Ricci.

38 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome ART NEWS CLIMATE ACTIVISTS

On 22 July climate activists, linked to the Ultima Generazione group, glued themselves to the glass in front of Botticelli's celebrated Primavera painting at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. The pair, with the aid of a third activist, then unfurled a banner that read "No Gas No Coal" as they protested against the climate crisis. Their actions caused outrage on social media however the Uffizi confirmed that there was no damage caused to the masterpiece thanks to the glass that protects the work. All three activists were removed from the gallery and face charges of interrupting a public service, resisting a public official, staging an unauthorised demonstration and defacing property, according to media reports. Then on 19 August two other climate protesters, also linked to Ultima Generazione, glued their hands to the base of the ancient Laocoön sculpture in the Vatican Museums, with a banner that also read "No gas and no coal". The Ultima Generazione Twitter page published footage of the protest with the statement: "In this statue we see Laocoon, the priest who tried to warn troians about the greeks' plot of the troian horse. He was ignored and Troy was conquered. Today activists are trying to warn humanity, but they are ignored and repressed just the same." There were no reports of damage to the masterpiece – known as Laocoön and His Sons or the Laocoön Group - which is believed to date to the first century BC and was excavated in 1506 on Rome's Esquiline hill. Two days after the Vatican Museums stunt, three more climate activists chained themselves to the railings in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, famous for its 14th-century frescoes by Giotto. Again there were no reports of damage and the protesters were removed by police. Ultima Generazione issued a statement saying that "Giotto had imagined the world would end with the Last Judgment. Today, the path taken by man is evident. The climate crisis is already shaping our lives. But we still have time to save ourselves. Join the civil resistance!"

TARGET ART SITES

Rome opens an archaeological dig in Largo Corrado Ricci to visitors, with free guided tours on select dates over the coming months. The excavations, at the Roman Forum end of the central Via Cavour, are underway in the north-eastern corner of the ancient Temple of Peace site. Under the title Scavi in Comune, the initiative will demonstrate the various phases of excavations, with guided tours in Italian conducted by archaeologists and art historians working on the site. The hour-long visits, starting at 15.00, will be held on the following Wednesdays: 14 and 28 September, and 12 and 26 October. Reservations must be made by calling tel. 060608 (active daily 09.00-19.00) and there is a maximum of 10 people allowed per group. It is necessary to wear "closed and comfortable" shoes, and in the event of rain the visit will be cancelled. The excavations are taking place ahead of proposed urban redevelopment of Largo Corrado Ricci using Italy's PNRR recovery funds. Separately, another archaeological dig is underway in front of the Baths of Caracalla, with guided tours every Friday in September at 11.00. For details of the project and how to visit see the "Open-Appia Regina Viarum" pages on Facebook or Instagram.

MAIN SPONSOR operaroma.it

SzaboOttiliaNoemibyPhoto-HaunagDesignFesta,Ettore

TEATRO ELEONORASEPTEMBERCOSTANZI13-18ABBAGNATOFRIEDEMANNVOGELTEATRODELL’OPERADIROMAÉTOILES,PRINCIPALDANCERS,SOLOISTSANDCORPSDEBALLETRECORDEDMUSIC Serata Preljocaj FOUNDERS PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS PATRONS

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec chini 3-5, tel. 06892111

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

classical cinema

OPERADCINEMATHEMUSIC06892111TREATREANCE

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

MUSIC ATHETRE CINEMA VENUES

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

The new season starts on 15 Oct Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome. All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome. All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec chini 3-5, tel.

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly Adrianoupdates. , Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

40 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome50 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome cinema

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a deﬁnitive list of all the music that is available in the city

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly Adrianoupdates.

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it theatre Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsi stina.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

dance

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Laniﬁcio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Laniﬁcio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

rockpop

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

•

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs. rockpop

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it theatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

dance

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Wanted in Rome • September 2022 | 4350 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome 51 | Oct 2018 Wanted in Rome

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Salvia Fritta (makes 15-20) 80g 00 our 120ml cold beer or sparkling water

DEEP-FRIED SAGE LEAVES

Cook each leaf for about 3-4 minutes until the exterior is pale gold. Remove and place on kitchen paper to remove the excess oil before eating while hot.

Heat a saucepan of vegetable oil until it reaches about 170°C (you can test if the oil is ready by dropping in a little of the batter, it should bubble and start to fry immediately).

The recipe is simple, a basic batter of our combined with cold beer or sparkling water, a pinch of salt and a pan of hot vegetable oil.

Approx 15-20 large fresh sage leaves By Kate Zagorski

However, sage is rarely the star of the show, rather it is used as a component with which to build avour together with other herbs or to complement pasta or meat.

Coat the sage leaves one at a time and carefully drop into the hot oil. You will need to fry them in batches so do not overcrowd the pan.

Put the our in a bowl with a generous pinch of salt. Gradually add the fridge-cold beer or sparkling water, whisking as you go, until you achieve a thick, smooth batter.

Less common than the other fried snacks found in Italy, it is nevertheless the perfect bite to accompany a glass of prosecco at aperitivo hour; a kind of herby, Italian tempura.

500ml vegetable oil, for frying

Yet anyone who tastes these deep-fried battered leaves will con rm that sage deserves its chance to take centre stage.

The distinct taste and aroma of the silvery, velvet-leaved herb adds an earthy, musky hint to many Italian recipes such as saltimbocca alla romana (veal escalopes topped with prosciutto and sage) and fresh ravioli prepared with burro e salvia (tossed in sage-infused butter).

Ingredients

Salvia Fritta is the perfect accompaniment to a glass of prosecco at aperitivo hour. Fresh sage is abundantly available in Italy and is easy to grow in pots at home, even on the smallest of balconies or windowsills.

Pinch of salt

Use the biggest sage leaves that you can nd, dip in the batter to coat, then fry until golden and crisp. Be sure to devour them immediately while crunchy and aromatic.

Indirizzi

Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461.

Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696. Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338.

‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326. Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707. Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243.

Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971. Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945. Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.

Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199. Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608. Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961.

Ketumbar’sKETUMBARorganic

If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

LocatedMISTO in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwi ches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun

ForDOLCEaNew

CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI

HereDOPPIOZEROyoucan enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

HereATLAS11.30-15.30.COELESTISyoucanchoose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30.

www.puntarellarossa.it

AtMAVIMavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different –part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.

ROSTI AL PIGNETO

York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00.

LocatedCOROMANDELnearPiazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00.

‘NA COSETTA

Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes.

Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30.

In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00.

IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO

brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

Where to brunch in Rome

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. www.otherwisebookshop.com066879825,

Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Books

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, www.unwgrome.multiply.comunwg@fao.org, Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.comdearprome@tele2.it,

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. www.libreriaspagnola.it0668806950,

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian)

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

48 | September 2022 • Wanted in Rome Associations

Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter paxromana@daritaly.com,NSDARwww.daritaly.com

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. www.ryderitalia.it065349622/06582045580, Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. Weekdaywww.stpatricksamericaninrome.org068881827,MassesinEnglish18.00,Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Emergency numbers

Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

• Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

50 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Traffic info tel. 1518

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

• Taxi tel. 066645-064994060609-065551-063570-068822-064157-

Wanted in Rome - July and August 2022

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