Wanted in Rome - March 2021

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHAT'S+

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WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

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CONT

EDITORIALS OF DANTE

Andy Devane

8. RUINS, PAST AND FUTURE Martin Bennett

12. REFLECTIONS FROM A ROMAN LAKE Mary Jane CRyan

18. LAKES AROUND ROME 20. ROME FOR children 22. STREET ART guide 24. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 45. CULTURAL VENUES 51. RECIPE 52. puntarella rossa 54. USEFUL NUMBERS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

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Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 28/02/2021

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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4. ITALY CELEBRATES YEAR

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

34. EXHIBITIONS 38. ART news 43. Opera 43. Classical

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ENTS 4

ITALY CELEBRATES YEAR OF DANTE

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34

REFLECTIONS FROM A ROMAN LAKE

EXHIBITIONS

43 ART NEWS

Literature

ITALY CELEBRATES YEAR OF DANTE 2021 MARKS 700 YEARS SINCE THE DEATH OF THE FATHER OF THE ITALIAN LANGUAGE Andy Devane

I

taly is marking the 700th anniversary of the death of the mediaeval poet and philosopher Dante Alighieri, known as the Father of the Italian language, with a programme of commemorative events throughout 2021.

The precious drawings are normally only available to view by a handful of scholars and have been seen by the public just twice: first in 1865 and again in 1993. The online show of high-definition images is called To See the Stars Again (A riveder le stelle).

Celebrations began with the Uffizi Gallery in Florence launching a free virtual exhibition of 88 fragile drawings for The Divine Comedy, Dante’s epic work which he completed a year before his death in 1321.

Depicting scenes of hell, purgatory and heaven, the sketches by the 16th-century Renaissance artist Federico Zuccari passed through the hands of the powerful Orsini and Medici families before becoming part of the Uffizi collection in the 18th century.

Dante died before the Black Death swept through Italy however, seven centuries later, another pandemic is upsetting the programme of events in his honour. At the time of writing, Tuscany is classified as a medium-risk orange zone under Italy’s tiered system of covid-19 restrictions, after the museums of Florence enjoyed five weeks of being open under the less-strict yellow zone rules.

The covid-19 regulations matter little in the case of the online Dante exhibition at the Uffizi, now closed to visitors. However Tuscany’s colour-coded demotion came just days after Florence’s town hall in Palazzo Vecchio put Bronzino’s allegorical portrait of the mediaeval poet on display.

The work was commissioned by the Florentine banker Bartolomeo Bettini in the early 1530s, according to Giorgio Vasari in his Lives of the Artists.

It is hoped that the painting can go back on public display before the exhibition is scheduled to end on 31 May but for now Palazzo Vecchio remains closed.

As Florence honours one of its most famous sons, perhaps the Tuscan capital is keen to make up for the way it treated Dante in the past. A descendant of the poet made headlines recently by dusting off a 700-year-old court case, keen to restore the good name of his esteemed forebear.

Italy's logo for Dantedì, the national day in honour of Dante Alighieri.

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Astrophysicist Sperello di Serego Alighieri and law professor Alessandro Traversi are seeking

Domenico di Michelino, Dante e il suo poema, 1465. Fresco, Cattedrale di S. Maria del Fiore, Florence.

a pardon of sorts for Dante who – after failing to appear in court in 1302 on charges of fraud, perjury, extortion and embezzlement – was sentenced to be burned at the stake.

Rather than face this terrible fate Dante chose to leave the city of his birth, never to return. His descendant told Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera that the trial was “politically motivated” and the “death penalties inflicted on my dear ancestor are unjust.”

In May a mock retrial in the form of a conference will take place in Florence, with historians, linguists and lawyers examining whether Dante’s sentence was the result of regular judicial proceedings or the “poisoned fruit of politics,” according to Traversi.

Florence’s loss was Ravenna’s gain, for in this city near the Adriatic coast that settled for the remaining years of his life. here that he completed the work which guarantee him eternal fame.

it was Dante It was would

But why exactly did La Divina Commedia make such an indelible impression on both literature and theology? The long narrative poem represents a 14th-century vision of the afterlife, describing Dante’s journey through the three realms of the

dead: Inferno (hell), Purgatorio (purgatory), and Paradiso (heaven).

Dante, who began composing the groundbreaking trilogy in or around 1308, wrote the poem’s 14,233 lines in the vernacular, opting for the Tuscan dialect which was accessible to the masses rather than the traditional Latin reserved for the most educated readers.

Dante’s unorthodox approach paved the way for important Italian writers such as Petrarch and Boccaccio, while his depictions of hell, purgatory and heaven had a profound influence on western art, from Sandro Botticelli to William Blake.

The first printed edition of the book was published in Foligno on 11 April 1472, with 14 of the original 300 copies still in existence. Today Dante’s masterpiece is widely considered the pre-eminent work in Italian literature and one of the greatest works of world literature. There are few poets in western literature, from the Romantics to the contemporary, who have not been inspired by Dante.

Dante’s milestone has also prompted Italy to create a Museum of the Italian Language, in Wanted in Rome • January 2021 | 5

Literature Dante is hitting the radio airwaves too with the poet’s verses being streamed every Monday at 11.00, 13.00, 16.00 and 18.00 on Radio Dante, via www.radiomi.al.

Wordsmiths and Dante fans are also being entertained by Accademia della Crusca in Florence, the world’s leading authority and research centre on the Italian language. Every day this year it is publishing a new word or expression coined by the poet, accompanied by an explanation, on its website www. accademiadellacrusca.it.

Luca Signorelli, portrait of Dante. Fresco (1500-1504), Cappella della Madonna di S. Brizio, Duomo of Orvieto.

This month will see the second, bumper edition of Dantedì, a national day dedicated to Dante.

Florence, with works to begin this year after being stalled by covid-19. The museum will be housed in a wing of the S. Maria Novella complex that played a decisive role in Dante’s studies and in writing his masterpiece.

Launched last year by Italy’s culture ministry, Dantedì is held annually on 25 March, the date given by scholars for the start of the journey to the afterlife in The Divine Comedy. Culture minister Dario Franceschini effused: “Dante reminds us of many things that hold us together: Dante is the unity of the country, Dante is the Italian language, Dante is the very idea of Italy.”

With funding of €4.5 million from Italy’s culture ministry, the new museum will outline the history and evolution of the Italian language and celebrate Italy’s great writers such as Boccaccio, Dante, Machiavelli and Petrarch. The museum is to market itself on an international level and will adopt an interactive approach with the aim of attracting younger visitors.

Dante continues to reach new audiences thanks to literary initiatives being streamed on radio and television. Following in the footsteps of the memorable readings by Roberto Benigni a few years ago, a new project emerged during lockdown last year when actress and theatre director Lucilla Giagnoni dedicated herself to Dante in the north-west Italian city of Novara. With special permission to leave her home, Giagnoni sat on the stage of Teatro Faraggiana for 100 days, with her husband on sound and daughter filming, as she read a “canto a day” from March to June.

Now her project, which saw up to 70,000 viewers tuning in during lockdown, makes its debut on national television. Each evening until 25 March, RAI5 will screen three verses a day, with The Divine Comedy being read in its entirety on Italian television.

The epic work will also be read in Milan’s Duomo, from 7 April until 15 July, in 100 canti in 100 giorni, a collaboration between the musicians of Teatro alla Scala and the students of the Piccolo Teatro di Milano.

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Many of the anniversary events will be staged in Ravenna, where the exiled poet died of malaria in 1321, aged 56, and where his tomb can be visited at the Basilica di S. Francesco. From virtual tours to lectures, events are planned in 70 Italian towns and villages connected to the poet either through his writings or personal life.

One of the biggest events is the ambitious exhibition project Dante: The vision of art to be held in Forlì from 12 March until 4 July, subject of course to covid rules. “A great show will be dedicated to the Supreme Poet in a strongly symbolic place, because it was in those lands that the author of The Divine Comedy spent several years of his exile” – said Eike Schmidt, director of the Uffizi which is co-organising the exhibition. The display will include portraits of Dante by Andrea del Castagno and Pontormo’s Expulsion from Paradise, alongside works by Michelangelo and Zuccari.

To keep up to date with Italian events for the anno dantesco as they are announced, follow #Dante2021 on social media. However it is worth remembering that it is not just Italy making a fuss. Commemorative events are taking place around the world, in multiple languages, making Dante’s writings accessible on a scale that the great poet could never have imagined.

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Exhibitions

RUINS, PAST AND FUTURE ROME'S ARA PACIS SHOWS MORE THAN 100 BLACK AND WHITE IMAGES OF ANCIENT ROMAN AND GREEK HERITAGE TAKEN BY MAGNUM PHOTOGRAPHER JOSEF KOUDELKA IN THE MOST IMPORTANT ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN Martin Bennett

A

sked in an interview to name a photographer’s most precious asset, Josef Koudelka, exile and chronicler of the 1968 Prague Spring and now resident in Paris, replied, “A good pair of shoes.”

Or maybe a dozen, given that the exhibition now on display at Rome's Ara Pacis museum was 28 years in the making. A map of the travelling exhibition pinpoints a blistering 200 sites visited, often times over in Koudelka’s pursuit of perfection: west-east from Morocco or Portugal to Petra or Palmyra; north-south from Plovdiv (Bulgaria) to Algeria, Libya or Egypt. “To choose between endless striving and wise resignation,” as he puts it, another key quality being patience, a trust that repetition will eventually deliver the definitive shot, leaving the photographer free to move on.

The show opens with a view of Delphi; dated 1991, recent or not so recent here are particularly relative. In an interplay between human/historical time and its geological counterpart, stacked drumlike sections of what were once Doric columns foreground a mountainside. On the wall opposite, photo-turned-panoramic-window frames the temple of Hercules outside Amman. Off right a colossal hand and disjointed elbow of the demigod is caught in the act of hauling himself upwards through a crack. Or is he clinging on for dear life until the ground consumes him? Who knows.

In one photograph the now horizontal Doric drums resemble the vertebrae of some mastodontic animal. Another picture revolves around a single drum slanted, dipping toward the viewer, part chthonic cog, part massive sunflower.

Aphrodisias, Turkey, 2014. © Josef Koudelka/ Magnum Photos / Contrasto.

8 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Exhibitions

Palmyra, Syria, 2006. © Josef Koudelka/ Magnum Photos / Contrasto.

"Evidence," in another of Koudelka’s phrases, gets twinned with "enigma." Cubist houses of the modern suburbs behind the ruin photographed are just visible through a haze of grey. In another room, layering three millennia, a shot of the Roman Forum features a paving slab of the Via Sacra accompanied by protective guard-rail for present-day tourists. Temples and churches (or amalgams of both) lean like ghosts to either side.

Compared to his Magnum Studio colleague Henri Cartier-Bresson, the past-master of human movement, Koudelka’s work is markedly static.

And in contrast to C-B , who had an exhibition in Rome 10 years ago, in Koudelka’s work there is scarcely a living person in sight. Movement occurs, if at all, in the form of gravity; collapse and destruction also frequently produce patterns all their own. An ex-painter, Cartier-Bresson possessed an unerring sense of geometry; so with equivalent precision does Koudelka, a former aero-engineer, the absence of colour serving to focus the attention on the ‘fearful symmetry’ of his scenes. C-B captures moments in time – the so-called ‘infinite instant’; Koudelka, for his part, directs the gaze not ‘in’ time so much as ‘across’ it. (C-B would tease Koudelka by saying his work resembles so much ‘spaghetti.’)

The massive wall-photographs come interspersed with smaller scenes placed on top of benches, occupying the museum floor like the tumbled masonry they represent. As when visiting an archaeological site, one is tempted to sit down on them. (Attendants are on hand to prevent this happening.) Olympia; Rome’s Domus Augustana, Trajan’s arch, here in Algeria not the Forum; back

in Ostia the goddess Roma as imperious Amazon, only that like a moon in eclipse half of her face has gone missing: all photos on the benches are hauntingly, not to say disconcertingly, laid flat.

Collapse can suggest chaos, as in a view of Selinunte, atria, architraves or peristyles heaped like rubble, entropy spelt in marble and granite.

Yet in other photographs columns have fallen with a grace of their own, preserving an order in destruction.

Ruins, yet with a still impressive strength. A photo of the oldest ruin, placed modestly on top of one of the benches, is tagged 2600-2250 BC; the paved ramp at the image’s centre leads to Troy’s Scaean Gate whence, Homer tells us, the Trojans would venture to battle with the Greek army on the plain below. Thanks to the Romans' use of the arch, the Pont du Gard acqueduct in France remains not just majestically upright. Helped by Koudelka’s camera-work, the structure is doubled in the relection below.

There are two pictures of Roman roads: one from Via dei Cureti in Ephesus, the other, from out along the Appian Way, still shows the tracks of chariots and ancient carts. Koudelka represents both sets of slabstones vertically. One might wonder whether our tarmacked motorways will last a fraction as long. Meanwhile, suggesting the darker side of empire, there’s a view of the Colosseum. Decorous statuary and travertine long vanished, we share a downward look onto the monument’s innards, the ragged circles and sinster tunnels conjure up Dante’s hell.

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Exhibitions

The Koudelka exhibition at the Ara Pacis can be visited until 16 May.

More serene is the temple of Poseidon in Greece.

Five columns still standing form a shutter onto the sea-god’s realm. Off left two figures, tiny as inverted commas, peer out on our behalf. Occupying the foreground like a beached boat is a fallen frieze.

The pagan god seems present even in his own absence. In the distance hump-backed islands extend the gaze beyond any easy formulation. ‘The enigma of beauty’ is Koudelka’s phrase. Another photo, again from Ostia Antica, represents the same god in a mosaic riding a marine chariot, cherubs, dolphins and the odd sea-serpent as outriders. The diagonal play of light evoking the element over which the god’s trident holds sway.

The show ends with an intriguing hands-on video of the master at work. One notes Koudelka’s beatific smile throughout. Like a spectrometre on legs, he walk and walks. Waits, now pausing for midday snooze, now consulting his wristwatch turned triangulation-device for the right slant of light or most telling angle. In one shot he interacts with a frieze containing a reticent legionnaire. More waiting for the Roman soldier to fully present himself. Then, snap: There he is, like a fully developed negative. Photographer can finally bid his subject a happy farewell.

To capture a carved female head, in Turkey, he doesn’t just walk. His 80 years no impediment, 10 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

he contorts himself, a sort of optic acrobat, wriggling his still limber frame into alignment with his ageless model.

A previous Koudelka show in Rome (at Trajan’s Markets in 2003) was entitled Teatro del tempo.

Ancient theatres recur here. In Sagalosso, Turkey, one is cut from a rocky slope, giving the impression of the landmass behind gradually taking back what is its own. The theatres at Epidaurus and at Pergamon seem to invite us modern citizens (if again invisibly) to take centre stage. "Ruins are not the past, but the future, seeking our attention and beckoning us to enjoy the present while it lasts," Koudelka offers further caption.

At once concentrating and widening perspectives, this exhibition lingers in the mind for days, and especially nights. "The enigma of beauty," yes.

Also power and even a hint of terror, what’s beyond tame definition, to summarise Edmund Burke’s concept of the sublime. Here’s history for everyone, though captured within a vaster time-frame whose immensity precedes or shall surely follow it.

The exhibition can be visited Mon-Fri 09.30-18.30 until 16 May at the Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta. Online booking advised, for full details see website, www.arapacis.it.

Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 11

Book Review

REFLECTIONS FROM A ROMAN LAKE AS MORE PEOPLE SEEK A QUIETER PACE OF LIFE OUTSIDE ROME, JUDITH HARRIS WRITES ABOUT LIVING IN NEARBY TREVIGNANO ROMANO

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Mary Jane Cryan

he publication of Judith Harris’s latest book is very timely as real estate brokers are noting a surge of interest for spacious residences in small towns outside of major cities around the world. Why live in a cramped apartment in Rome, New York or London when you can enjoy a quieter, healthier and less expensive lifestyle with more space for family and working from home.

smallest of three towns on the perimeter of pristine Lake Bracciano, just an hour north of Rome. Trevignano, the most ancient of the three, has preserved many of its original traditions and local dialect while Bracciano and Anguillara, on the train line linking Rome and Viterbo, have morphed into dormitory suburbs of the capital with enormous expansion in the past 40 years.

Reflections from a Roman Lake, Trevignano Romano, a biography of an adoptive home is a love story that Harris dedicates to her adopted home, the

The first part of Reflections describes Trevignano’s long and intricate history, beginning with the prehistoric settlement of La Marmotta discovered

Trevignano is located about 50 km north of Rome. Photo ValerioMei / Shutterstock.com.

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Trevignano Romano sits on the northern shore of Lake Bracciano.

and excavated by underwater archaeologists between 1989 and 2009. Archeologists who excavated the underwater site say that in approximately 5,600 BC it was home to about 500 people. The prehistoric village was submerged by the lake waters when an earthquake or other natural disaster occurred, similar to what happened to the Roman colony Baiae / Baia in the Bay of Naples.

The site is located under 7m of lake water and nearly 3m of silt which, once removed, have given up precious objects including pottery shards, opium pipes, pirogues, tools, animal bones, food residues and textiles. These are now conserved at the Pigorini Museum in Rome’s EUR. The most important piece according to archaeologists who worked there, is a tiny chubby Venus figurine in soapstone which was discovered inside a sanctuary hut on the lake floor.

Other objects from later Etruscan and Roman times are in Trevignano’s civic museum or can be viewed in situ. These include the marble panel sculpted with rosettes from a Roman public building in the main square and the imposing remains of the aqueduct which was built by Trajan to bring precious spring water from the Trevignano and Bracciano area to the fountains of Rome.

Harris narrates how during her early years in Trevignano she sometimes heard the whirring sound of a mechanical device at night, which meant tombaroli, or tomb-raiders, were searching the nearby Etruscan tombs for precious Attic vases

and gold jewellery. Over the years she gained vast knowledge of archaeology in Italy which she passes on to the reader in this and a previous book, Pompeii Reawakened: a Story of Rediscovery.

Through personal encounters and research in specialised texts Harris gleans information about the ancient sites in Trevignano and shares the more interesting tidbits with her readers, making it easy for the layperson to understand and appreciate the various civilisations that existed on the lakeside: Villanovian settlements, Etruscan necropoli and imposing Roman vestiges.

The second part of the book tells of the strict rules people were subjected to by absentee noble landlords from feudal times right up to the 1950s when battles for reforms finally resulted in grants to the families that had worked the land for centuries.

She writes about life in the area during more recent times of war and peace. Harris has interviewed dozens of townspeople, recording their memories of the harsh life endured by the local fishermen and farmers during two world wars when many men of the town were conscripted.

Talks with elderly local people helped to collect eyewitness details of the German military occupation during world war two when German nuns at the Vicarello complex cared for their injured military countrymen. Now abandoned, this picturesque borgo was a spa during Roman times and more recently used as a film set.

Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 13

History The third section of Reflections is a hymn to the good life enjoyed by Trevignano residents today, a series of cameo appearances featuring residents who have left an imprint on the town over the centuries from 17th-century saints to ferocious princes, the blind mailman and the pioneer teacher of the hearingimpaired, to sculptors and bogus miracle workers.

From a tiny, rather isolated lakeside borgo the town has expanded, welcoming many expats who enjoy living in the area today. Jackie Bennett Leto who came to live here in 1979 explained the phenomenon, mentioning the magical Etruscan atmosphere, the simple fishing village life and micro climate which make Trevignano a perfect place for wine enthusiasts, painters and horse riders.

For a recent newcomer to Trevignano the location is ideal, for it is steeped in ancient history and on the doorstep of the Tuscia region while still accessible to Rome and its amenities. Nature lovers enjoy the surrounding national forest land, windsurfing on majestic Lake Bracciano, as well as strolling along the peaceful lakefront, having an open air meal or aperitivo at one of the restaurants and cafes.

Recently the Lazio region has given funds to continue the bike path around the lake begun under a previous administration and more money to improve the surrounding parklands. However there are also a few problems. In the chapter Lake at Risk Harris denounces the present state of the lake’s health, due to climate change and reduction of its water level. The receding lake is a threat to tourism, one of the area’s major sources of income today. The use of pesticides for hazelnut orchards surrounding Bracciano, and nearby Lake di Vico and Lake Bolsena, is another serious problem that needs to be resolved to protect the bucolic nature of the countryside north of Rome.

The final chapter of Harris’s book Flight, is prompted by the presence near Trevignano of three interesting centres: the historic Vigna di Valle Aeronautic Museum, a small airport (Scuola di Volo Club Arrow) for ultralight aircraft and the centre for Rapacious Birds (Centro Volo Rapaci).

The sprawling aeronautic museum at Vigna di Valle, a sea plane station during world war one, now houses dozens of original historic airplanes and a few unexpected curiosities: the silk remains of a giant hot air balloon which flew from Paris to Bracciano in 1804. Perhaps the most curious exhibit in the museum however is the embalmed dog of explorer Umberto Nobile. Out of a crew of 16, just nine including Nobile survived months on the polar ice, as did Titina the dog, before being rescued. Their story was told in Nobile's 1967 book which later became the film The Red Tent.

Five pages of footnotes and a vast bibliography complete this extremely interesting and thorough exploration of Judith Harris’s adoptive hometown of Trevignano.

See www.judithinrome.com for book trailer and purchasing choices. Reflections from a Roman Lake is available in ebook form or hardback (Fonthill Media, €26).

Before searching for a new country residence, Judith Harris called historic Palazzo Doria Pamphilj home. Among the real estate she turned down was a property badly in need of restoration in Vetralla.

Serendipitously this became my new home in 1993 and the subject of a bilingual book Painted Palazzo/ Palazzo Dipinto (Etruria Editions/Archeoares).

14 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

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LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome

LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures.

Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships.

Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival.

Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara.

Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

18 | January 2021 • Wanted in Rome

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Wanted in Rome • January 2021 | 19

ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome.

For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com.

Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

20 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.

Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel.

0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre.

Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre.

Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond.

Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47.

PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro.

For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants.

The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details.

Borondo.

See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale.

Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids

by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame

by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Magazzini Generali.

Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato

by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

22 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi.

Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Fortebraccio.

2501 mural on Via Blu

by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca.

Francesco Baracca.

Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait

by Diavù.

Anna Magnani

by Diavù.

Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria.

Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill

by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo.

Minotaur by Pixelpancho.

Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure.

Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via

by Lucamaleonte.

Nido didel Vespe

by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano.

Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals

by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi).

Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia

by Zerocalcare.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

Metro B station.

S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project

by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works

by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini.

It’s Alice Pasquini.

Via Via Anton Ludovico.

Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini.

Pasquini.

ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli.

Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide

by Elisaby Caracciolo.

Caracciolo.

Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159.

159.

Borondo.

Mural by

by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Via Aquilonia.

Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo.

Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani.

Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani.

Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments

by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Dulk.

Via Antonio Tempesta.

Tor Pignattara Etnik.

Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51.

Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta.

Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni.

51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni.

by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni.

Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni.

Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Alessi.

Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14.

Galeazzo Alessi.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Herakut. Via Capua 14.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall

by Jerico.

22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum.

Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 23

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.

Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

24 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid.

Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Italy’s first IB school

Excellence

Done differently ST. STEPHEN’S SCHOOL ROME American international day and boarding school sssrome.it / +39 06 575 0605

Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 25

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists.

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it.

The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.

Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.

Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.

Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

26 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation.

09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 27

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel.

0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

28 | January 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel.

0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists.

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

S

tudy abroad or earn your degree in Rome

All classes in English Scholarships available Accepting applications for 2021

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 29

MAXXI amazes you, always art

architecture design photography cinema

30 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.

066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists.

Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2021 | 31

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where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Alberto Savinio at Palazzo Altemps, see page 34. Le rêve du poète, 1927 © Wanted AlbertoinSavinio SIAE 2021.

Rome •by March 2021 | 33

EXHIBITIONS Museums and archaeological sites in Rome are open, at the time of writing, with the Lazio region currently classified as a lower-risk yellow zone under Italy's coronavirus restrictions.

Museums are open Mon-Fri only and visiting protocols apply, from wearing masks to keeping social distance, with advance booking required.

For updates check our website www.wantedinrome.com.

Masakatsu Sashie at Dorothy Circus Gallery.

MASAKATSU SASHIE: LOOP

SAVINIO: INCANTO E MITO

Dorothy Circus Gallery presents Loop, a solo exhibition by Japanese artist Masakatsu Sashie showcasing a new series of oil paintings that combine traditional techniques while addressing the contemporary.

The gallery says that Sashie’s “fantastical suspended panoramas” represent “urban, desolate and post-apocalyptic scenarios with floating microcosms assembled with industrial waste, lighting signs, foil, shutters.” For visiting details see gallery website. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel.

0668805928, www. dorothycircusgallery.com.

Palazzo Altemps provides the magnificent backdrop to this exhibition of works by Alberto Savinio (1891-1952) an intellectual figure whose multiple interests ranged from music to literature, painting and theatre. Savinio, a brother of Giorgio de Chirico, combined ancient and modern, aesthetics and irony, memory and fantasy in his work which is displayed among the museum’s collection of classical sculpture. The exhibition is divided into three sections and features around 90 paintings and prints created mainly between 1925 and 1931 with a particular

20 FEB-20 MARCH

8 FEB-13 JUNE

focus on the artist’s years in Paris.

Museo Nazionale Romano di Palazzo Altemps, Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

QUADRIENNALE DI ROMA 4 FEB

The 2020 Quadriennale di Roma, a major showcase of contemporary Italian art in the capital, continues a tradition begun in Rome in 1931.

The 17th edition of the prestigious event which features the work of 43 artists in an exhibition that promises an “unprecedented perspective” on Italian art, occupies both floors of Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

Quadriennale president Umberto Croppi said that the event – curated

by Sarah Cosulich and Stefano Collicelli Cagol, with the support of the Italian culture ministry – will act as a grand revival for Italian contemporary art. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

MAXXI 1 FEB

Alberto Savinio at Palazzo Altemps.

34 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

MAXXI reopens with a series of new and extended exhibitions, including the photographic portraits by Giovanni Gastel; senzamargine.

Passaggi nell’arte italiana a cavallo del millennio featuring the work of Italian artists such as Luigi Ghirri, Mario Schifano and Jannis Kounellis; and a tribute by the English artist and filmmaker Isaac Julien to the great

Italian-Brazilian architect Lina Bo Bardi. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

THE TORLONIA MARBLES: COLLECTING MASTERPIECES 1 FEB-29 JUNE

The legendary Torlonia Collection, considered among the world’s most important private collections of Greek-Roman classical art, has at long last gone on public display in Rome.

The much-anticipated exhibition was first postponed and then closed due to the covid-19 crisis. Villa Caffarelli at the city’s Capitoline Museums displays 92 pieces from the priceless collection of 620 ancient sculptures.

The revered “collection of collections,” which comprises marble, bronze and alabaster statues, busts, bas-reliefs and sarcophagi dating to the ancient Roman era – amassed between the 15th- and 19th centuries – will come to light after being largely hidden away for 70 years. The former Museo Torlonia opened in 1875 on Via della Lungara in Rome’s Trastevere quarter, however in the post-war period access to the palace’s 77 rooms was granted only occasionally to experts or visiting dignitaries. In 1976 the museum closed definitively, to make way for luxury apartments, and the priceless collection was moved to the basement of another private Roman palace owned by the aristocratic Torlonia family. For more than four decades the collection has been kept in storage, despite attempts by successive governments to persuade the noble

A selection of busts from the Torlonia Marbles collection on display at Villa Caffarelli.

family to either sell or display the works in public. Now, thanks to several years of talks between Italy’s culture ministry and the Torlonia Foundation – the organisation that administers the family’s assets – some of the collection’s most important marble and alabaster works are on

public display. The works have been restored in a project financed by luxury jeweller Bulgari, and there are plans to find a venue in Rome in which to display the collection to the public on a permanent basis. Villa Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, tel.

060608, www.museicapitolini.org.

An exhibition at the Colosseum explores the links between Pompeii and ancient Rome.

POMPEII 79 AD: A ROMAN STORY 8 FEB-9 MAY

MAXXI celebrates 10 years in Rome.

The Colosseum hosts an “unprecedented” exhibition that examines the history of the longstanding relationship between Rome and Pompeii. The exhibition comprises almost 100 pieces and reconstructs the complex dialogue that linked the two most famous sites in Italian archaeology from the Second Samnite War to the eruption of 79 AD. The display is centred around the reconstruction of social and cultural relations, traceable in particular through archaeological research, and is enriched by videos Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 35

Josef Koudelka at Ara Pacis. Amman, Jordan, 2012. © Josef Koudelka/ Magnum Photos / Contrasto.

and virtual projections. The show is displayed on the second tier of the Colosseum and is divided into three large sections – the alliance phase, the Roman colony phase, the decline and end of Pompeii. For visiting details see website, www.parcocolosseo.it.

“timeless views” on display are part of a travelling exhibition featuring the work of the photographer who was born in Moravia in 1938.

See feature article page 8. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, ww.arapacis.it.

NANCY CADOGAN: GUSTO

GNAM

The Keats-Shelley House Museum reopens Gusto, an exhibition of new work commissioned from Nancy Cadogan. The British figurative artist was tasked with creating a series of paintings that celebrated the life and legacy of the Romantic poet John Keats and to mark the 200th anniversary of his death on 23 Feb 2021. The Keats-Shelley House describes her body of work as a “deeply thoughtful and considered series of oil paintings, referencing her learned knowledge of Keats’s work and grounded in symbolism and hope for an uncertain future.” Piazza di Spagna 26, www.ksh.roma.it.

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM) reopens with new exhibits and displays including a “context specific” installation by Martí Guixé, at the foot of the building’s steps, featuring two emojis, an open lock and an arrow, an invitation to enter the gallery. The gallery acquires new work by Arte Povera artist Giovanni Anselmo and shows a monumental sculpture, featuring five marble mirrors, by Anish Kapoor.

For visiting details see website. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

1 FEB-31 MAY

JOSEF KOUDELKA: RADICI 1 FEB-16 MAY

The Ara Pacis Museum dedicates an exhibition to Josef Koudelka, the award-winning Czech photographer from the Magnum Photos agency, with more than 100 spectacular images of ancient Roman and Greek heritage. As the title suggests, the exhibition highlights Koudelka’s photographic journey in search of the roots of our history in the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. The black and white

36 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

1 FEB

BANSKY: A VISUAL PROTEST 1 FEB-11 APRIL

Banksy, the anonymous British street artist, is the subject of an exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. The show features around 80 works by Banksy – known for his powerful, satirical and thought-provoking murals – touching on themes close to the artist’s heart: war, wealth, poverty, animals, globalisation, consumerism, politics, power and the environment.

The exhibited works, created between 2001 and 2017, include well known images such as Love is in the Air, Girl with Balloon, Queen Vic, Napalm,

Toxic Mary, HMV, as well as the designs for the book Wall & Piece and projects for vinyl and CD covers.

The exhibition offers an insight into the mysterious world of Banksy, documenting the techniques used in his works as well as his hard-hitting themes. Visitors can also admire Raphael’s fresco Sibille e Angeli from a window of the first floor of the Chiostro. It was commissioned in 1515 as part of the decoration of the adjoining Basilica di S. Maria della Pace. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

RICHARD ARTSCHWAGER 14 JAN-7 APRIL

Rome’s Gagosian presents an exhibition of works by the American artist Richard Artschwager, made between 1964 and 1987, described as a key period in his career. Artschwager, who died in 2013, is linked to numerous movements, including Pop, Minimal and Conceptual, however he never truly conformed to any of them. The gallery says that this exhibition devoted to the early decades of Artschwager’s career demonstrates his ability to “rearrange the structures of perception, bringing the deceptive pictorial world of images into direct confrontation with the concretely human world of objects.” For visiting details see gallery website.

Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www. gagosian.com.

ART NEWS POMPEII HAS A NEW DIRECTOR

Italy’s culture ministry has appointed Gabriel Zuchtriegel, a 39-year-old German archaeologist, as the new director of the Pompeii archaeological park. The news was announced on 20 February by culture minister Dario Franceschini during a visit to the Pompeii exhibition at the Colosseum. Zuchtriegel, who has been general manager of Paestum since 2015, takes over from Massimo Osanna who was recently appointed director general of Italy’s state museums.

Born in 1981 in Weingarten, Germany, Zuchtriegel has Italian citizenship since 2020 and is married with two children. He studied classical archaeology, prehistory and Greek philology in Berlin, Rome and Bonn, where in 2010 he completed a research doctorate on the Lazio site of Gabii near Rome. “I chose Gabriel Zuchtriegel” – said Franceschini – “because he did an incredible job in Paestum. Now it is a model thanks to him. I’m sure he will do very well in Pompeii too.” Zuchtriegel beat 44 other candidates – 10 of whom were not Italian – in an international contest to win the four-year post at Pompeii, a position he describes as ″my life’s dream and a great responsibility.”

ROME MUSEUMS FREE FOR ROMANS?

Rome mayor Virginia Raggi has proposed free entry to Rome museums for residents of the city, a proposal which would require the approval of Italy’s culture ministry. “The request I would make to Minister Dario Franceschini would be to remove the entrance ticket for museums, exhibitions and archaeological parks,” the mayor said. Raggi’s appeal was broadcast via the online platform Twitch on 17 February. “The possibility of visiting museums should be unlimited, at least for Romans” – said Raggi, of the populist Movimento 5 Stelle (M5S) – “This is not to trivialise the content of the museums but rather to attract visitors.”

Raggi, who is currently seeking a second term in office, cited as an example the reopening of the Mausoleum of Augustus on 1 March. The complex will be free to all visitors until 21 April after which it will be free for all Rome residents until the end of this year. The mayor also underlined that she was “very attached” to the establishment of the capital’s successful MIC museum pass. The card, which allows entry to municipal museums for €5 a year, was spearheaded

by Luca Bergamo, the city’s former culture councillor and deputy mayor, who Raggi replaced recently.

In 2017 Raggi clashed with Franceschini, of the centreleft Partito Democratico (PD), when the culture ministry decided to establish the Colosseo archaeological park incorporating the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill and Domus Aurea. The decision was designed to streamline the management of the capital’s archaeological sites, increase visitor numbers and offer better services. However Raggi attempted to block the

38 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Gabriel Zuchtriegel is the new director at Pompeii.

move on the grounds that it would be “harmful to the interests of Roma Capitale”, referring to the fact that under the new plan the city would only receive 30 per cent of ticket sales. The mayor took the case to the Lazio regional administrative tribunal (TAR), which sided with the city, before being overruled by Italy’s top administrative court, leading to the establishment of the Parco archeologico del Colosseo.

ITALY’S MUSEUMS SEE 75 PER CENT DROP IN VISITORS IN 2020

Italy’s state museums witnessed an average decrease of 75 per cent in visitors in 2020, due to the fall-off in tourists and lockdowns related to covid-19, according to the Italian culture ministry. State museums and archaeological sites also suffered a major drop in ticket sales last year, taking in €60 million compared to €240 million the year before. The data from the culture ministry was published by the weekly magazine

Italy's museums suffered a major drop in visitors and income last year.

Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 39

There were accusations of over-crowding at the Vatican Museums last month.

Famiglia Cristiana. The findings showed that Pompeii archaeological park recorded a drop in visitors of 85 per cent, the Colosseum by 80 per cent, the archaeological museum of Reggio Calabria by 75 per cent, the Egyptian Museum in Turin and the Uffizi Galleries in Florence by 70 per cent, and the Gallerie dell’Accademia in Venice by 68 per cent. “To overcome this crisis,” said Massimo Osanna, the director general of Italy’s state museums, “places of culture must rethink their role, transforming themselves into centres open to the community for multiple activities. Museums must become increasingly attractive for those who live in the surrounding area,” continues Osanna, “they must be open places, where you go to admire a masterpiece, but also to meet other people or participate in an event.”

CROWDS AT VATICAN MUSEUMS?

Allegations of over-crowding at the Vatican Museums on Saturday 13 February have been rubbished by the museums’ director, Barbara Jatta. The claims were made by visitors and tour guides including Vincenzo Spina who described scenes of “chaos” and “carnage” in the Raphael Rooms, in an article in Italian newspaper La Repubblica. “It felt like a subway platform at rush hour, with families trying to turn back, other visitors yelling ‘they kidnapped us,’” said Spina, who added that the guards allegedly invited visitors to take their complaints “to the upper floors.” Responding to the claims, Jatta told Italian news agency ANSA that she was there herself on the day in question and that the “situation was by no means so dramatic. I honestly find the controversies raised by some guides a bit silly” – said Jatta – “Before they complained about the closure of the museums, now, after 88 days of forced stop, they complain about the reopening. I myself led two groups, staying in the halls for the right amount of time” – Jatta told ANSA – “But according to what I am told, this external guide kept his visitors for a good 40 minutes in one of the main rooms.”

40 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

ROME’S PALACES REOPEN

The Colonna Palace and Doria Pamphilj Gallery have reopened following extended closures, with new opening hours and reservations required at both palaces. Galleria Colonna, which normally opens to visitors on Saturday mornings, now opens for private visits on request on weekdays. Home of the noble Colonna family for eight centuries, the palace contains a stellar private art collection including works by Caracci, Pietro di Cortona and Veronese. There are different tour options and tariffs, with visitor access from Via della Pilotta 17. Full details are on the website, www.galleriacolonna.it. The Galleria Doria Pamphilj collection contains works by masters such as Bernini, Caravaggio, Raphael, Titian and Velàzquez, whose fearsome portrait of the Pamphilj Pope, Innocent X, is a highlight. It is now open Mon-Fri 17.00-20.00 by appointment only. The entrance is at Via del Corso 305, for details see website, www.doriapamphilj.it/roma.

MUSEO PALATINO REOPENS

The Palatine Museum has reopened to the public, after a closure of more than three months under Italy’s covid-19 regulations, with new opening hours. The Museo Palatino, which houses sculptures, fragments of frescoes and archaeological material discovered on the Palatine Hill, is now open Mon-Fri 10.30-16.00, with last entrance at 15.30. Housed in a former monastery, built in 1868 on the remains of Domitian’s palace, the new Antiquario Palatino was established in the 1930s by the archaeologist Alfonso Bartoli. The two-storey museum, completely restructured in the 1990s, documents the history of the Palatine Hill from the origins of Rome to the advent of the Roman empire in the first century BC. The museum contains treasures from the era of Augustus, Rome’s first emperor, as well as precious mosaics and paintings from the Neronian Domus Transitoria. Access to the Palatine Hill is included in the Colosseum ticket which is valid for 24 hours.

Andy Devane

Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 41

42 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome

opera Judging by its new opera and ballet productions Teatro dell’Opera di Roma has turned the covid-19 lockdown into a wonderfully creative opportunity. First came its summer opera Rigoletto at Circo Massimo, then ll Barbiere di Siviglia staged as a film in the opera theatre. In January it was I Puritani in concert form. Coming up in April (dates still to be decided) the opera theatre will stage a new production of La Traviata, again as a film using the opera theatre’s spaces. In cooperation with Rai-Cultura and Rai3, Daniele Gatti will conduct the theatre’s orchestra, with Mario Martone as director. Gatti and Martone were the team responsible for the success of Il Barbiere which opened the season in December. The key cast of this unusual production of La Traviata will be led by Lisette

Claudio Cocino and Rebecca Bianchi in Pandora.

Oropesa, with the Albanian tenor Saimu Pirgu and Roberto Frontali baritone. Costumes are designed by Anna Biagiotti and photography by Pasquale Mari.

The Teatro dell’Opera’s ballet productions have also been inventive, both for the choreographies themselves and their location, whether the Nuvola congress hall in EUR or the MAXXI museum in the Flaminio district of the city.

Pandora the new choreography by Simone Valastro with music by John Adams was streamed at the end of January (with 1,278 viewings on the first night) until end of-Feb by the Teatro dell Opera’s video stream, from the Teatro Costanzi itself. It is now available on YouTube. This mix of Greek mythology and American minimalism is breath-taking even

on YouTube. And somehow the theatre’s empty boxes that appear behind conductor Carlo Donadio, as well as the physically spaced orchestra, just add to the poignancy of the event. The theatre’s ballet stars, Rebecca Bianchi and Claudio Cocino, are in the exacting lead roles.

While the Met Opera in New York continues to stream its old productions and La Scala in Milan has almost disappeared off its own stage, the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma must be congratulated for its imagination and creativity.

CLASSICAL The first S. Cecilia concert after the possible lifting of covid-19 restrictions on 5 March is the work commissioned from the winner of the first edition of Berio International Composition Competition.

The prize is dedicated to Italy’s most famous modern composer, Luciano Berio, and the competition has been instigated by the president of the Accademia S. Cecilia, Michele Dall’Ongaro, in conjunction with the Centro Studi Luciano Berio in Florence.

Unusually for an international music competition the prize is awarded not for a single composition but for work already composed. The prize is worth not only the money (€20,000) but also the commissioning of a major work which will then be guaranteed performances and publication. The composition by Abudushalamu will be performed six times in Italy – in Rome, Florence and Milan. In Rome the work will be performed by the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by its music director Antonio Pappano on 11, 12, 13 March.

The commissioned work is by the Chinese composer Yikeshan Abudushalamu who has studied composition in Shanghai and Geneva and was composer-inresidence of the 2015 Manca festival in Nice.

Pappano is also the head of the jury to award the prize, made up of four composers; two men Ivan Fedele (Italy) and Tristan Murail (France) and two women Unsuk Chi (South Korea) and Augusta Read Thomas (the United States).

First Berio International Prize

Yikeshan Abudushalamu for S. Cecilia.

Photo Il Messaggero.

The first in the series of events dedicated to Berio was streamed

by S. Cecilia on 19 Feb. Folk Songs was conducted by the Finnish conductor Jukka-Pekka Saraste with mezzosoprano Stefanie Iranyi.

The concert is still available on the S. Cecilia website and is also on its YouTube platform. For details see www.santacecilia.it/en/ digitalseason/ Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 43

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city.

The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city.

There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums.

Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

All www.filarmonicaromana.org.

The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year.

There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades

by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards.

Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com | Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 50 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

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inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.

See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel.

Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Wanted in Rome • February 2021 | 45

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel.

0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel.

Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel.

14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel.

065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel.

PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel.

Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted51in| Oct Rome • February | 47 2018 • Wanted2021 in Rome

38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

An Education for Life that will make the difference

Castelli International School

International Elementary and Middle School

www.castelli-international.it

50 | February 2021 • Wanted in Rome

By Kate Zagorski

RIGATONI ALLA GRICIA Although it often plays second fiddle to the famous Roman pasta triumvirate of carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe, la gricia is in many ways the most Roman of them all. Giving equal limelight to both guanciale and pecorino it combines chunks of crunchy pork jowl with a creamy cheese coating to celebrate the very best of local produce.

Sometimes referred to as a ‘white amatriciana’, gricia originated in the countryside around Rome where the skill in balancing just a few ingredients to create something delicious helped to form the backbone of traditional Roman cuisine. It’s now the perfect ‘empty the fridge’ dish; quick, simple and comforting. Be sure to take some time at the end to stir in the pecorino carefully: tossing the pasta, the starchy water and the guanciale fat with the cheese will magically bind everything together right before your eyes.

Ingredients (Serves 2)

200g rigatoni 200g guanciale 60ml white wine 50g grated pecorino romano Black pepper

• Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add salt and set the pasta to cook for one minute less than the indicated time.

• Trim the rind from the guanciale and cut into 1cm strips.

• Heat a frying pan and add the guanciale, cook for a few minutes until the fat is released and it is turning crispy at the edges.

Add the white wine and simmer for 2 minutes to evaporate the alcohol.

• Add the almost cooked pasta to the pan with a good splash of the cooking water, continue to cook for another minute.

• When the pasta is al dente turn off the heat and sprinkle in the pecorino, toss everything together well to thicken and coat the pasta. Add some freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.

The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa.

7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11.

6. DA FELICE Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess.

The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13.

5. DA DANILO The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10.

4. DA CESARE Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli.

Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then

add a generous spoonful of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9.

3. VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13.

2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar.

This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites.

Price: €45.

1. ROSCIOLI Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Indirizzi

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

54 | February 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

RICERCA E SELEZIONE DEL PERSONALE Un team di consulenti motivati e altamente qualificati con pluriennale esperienza e certificato know-how, individuano e selezionano candidati ideali in ruoli di prestigio all’interno di una vasta gamma di settori e di aziende.

RESEARCH AND SELECTION OF STAFF A team of highly motivated and qualified consultants, with many years of experience and certified know-how behind them, identify and select the best possible candidates to cover all required roles within a structure.

Via Germanico, 172 00192 Roma (+39) 06 8392 5480

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

56 | January 2021 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj and Sir Ivor Roberts, Chair of the Keats-Shelley Memorial Association request the pleasure of your company

at a Champagne Reception, Gala Supper and Evening of Drama and Music; with an exclusive Tour of the Palazzo's Galleries and a production of "Life is but a Day" a celebration of Keats in his own words

by Angus Graham-Campbell on behalf of the KSMA and Keats-Shelley 200

On Saturday 12th June 2021 at 7 p.m.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, Rome Dress code: Smart/ Black Tie optional Ticket price: € 450

RSVP: info@keats-shelley-house.org

Mater Dei SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. G. Cervelli - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. D0111 del 17-03-03

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Companies certified with ISO 9001:2015 Quality Management System

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COMPANY

IN ROME CONTACT US Via V. Tiberio, 46 00191 Rome

06.330945421 lineaziende@clinicapaideia.it