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EDITORIALS JeNNI SCOTT
8. DEALING WITH RED TAPE IN ITALY Geoffrey Watson
14. ITALIAN OPEN TENNIS IN ROME Ed White
ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 29/04/2019
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Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 11, Numero 5 MAY 2019
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GIANNI POLITI Assenza totale di empatia (breve storia degli uomini) 2018/19. Oil on canvas. Courtesy Galleria Lorcan O'Neill. For details see page 33.
ENTS 4
EVERYTHING IN THE GARDEN'S LOVELY
39
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ROCK, POP, JAZZ
ITALIAN OPEN TENNIS IN ROME
42 FESTIVALS
History
EVERYTHING IN THE GARDEN’S LOVELY DISCOVERING EMPRESS LIVIA’S COUNTRY RETREAT IN ROME Jenni Scott
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wenty-year-old Livia Druscilla must have considered herself lucky. Born in 58 BC into a wealthy noble Roman family – beautiful, intelligent, married with a son and another on the way – everything in her life was proceeding as it should to all intents and purposes. However destiny had other plans for her. Despite being six months pregnant with a second son, a chance meeting changed her life forever. She caught the eye of Octavian – the future Emperor Augustus (27 BC-19 AD) – who apparently fell in love with her on the spot. Octavian was the
great-nephew and adopted son of Julius Caesar, who had appointed him his heir in his will. If you valued your life you didn’t argue with the emperor. Livia’s husband Tiberius Claudius Nero agreed not only to a rapid divorce but also to give Livia away when she married Octavian in 38 BC. Following that shock double whammy, her discarded ex vanished in a puff of smoke, never to be heard of again. Octavian divorced his much older second wife Scribonia on the day she bore him a daughter, Julia. Scribonia’s marriage to the future
The fresco from Livia's villa can be seen at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.
4 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
white chicken carrying a laurel branch in its beak. Soothsayers pronounced that she should always keep a flock of white hens at the villa and plant a laurel grove in the middle of the garden. This she did. The laurels, which she tended herself, grew so rigorously they were used to make triumphal wreaths for the rest of Augustus’s reign and for generations to come.
Fresco detail of pomegranates.
emperor, and that of his first wife Claudia, each lasted only two years. It was to be third time lucky for him. Octavian married Livia shortly after the birth of her second son. Their childless marriage lasted for 51 years until Augustus’s death at the age of 75. Livia outlived him, dying at the ripe old age of 86. Considering the average life span at the time was 50 to 60 if you were lucky, their joint longevity was remarkable. Towards the end of her life, Livia’s steely character came to the fore as she schemed and plotted with a ruthless resolve to ensure Tiberius, her first son by her first marriage, became the next emperor. Livia was a good manager of household affairs. Unostentatious in her dress and manner, she treated her inferiors with consideration and even made clothes for her powerful husband. Augustus learned to trust her judgement, relying on her advice increasingly as the years passed by. She became the quiet, influential power behind the throne and was given the honour of becoming the first Roman woman to have a coin minted with her image on it in 16 BC. Livia was undoubtedly Rome’s very first First Lady. On her marriage to Octavian, Livia brought her family’s country villa at Prima Porta as part of her dowry. It’s about 15 kms north of Rome – a day’s journey in those times. Built on a hill with commanding views over the Tiber valley, the home was called Villa ad Gallinas Albas – villa of the white chickens. The reason for this curious name was that Livia had a dream in which an eagle dropped into her lap a pure
Both she and Augustus clearly enjoyed gardens and the outdoors. Most of the villa’s bedrooms lead onto a courtyard or directly into the garden, which was protected on three sides by a pillared portico, leaving the south-eastern view unhindered out across the Tiber valley to Tivoli. The effect is no longer as impressive due to the built-up surroundings of today. The couple’s large garden was full of every imaginable plant available at the time, including apricots, apples, peaches, plums, pomegranates and olives. The historian Suetonius recorded that the couple “preferred porticos and groves to statues and paintings.” Livia had a small private garden outside her bedroom, where she grew medicinal herbs. Could her use of them be a clue to her long life? Augustus improved the residence, which was already spacious and elegant with its painted walls, coloured marble and mosaic floors, fragments of which can be seen today in the ruins and its little museum. In addition to its summer use, it was designed to be an all-weather retreat with under-floor heating, thermal baths and protected private winter quarters. The villa featured three vaulted rooms, built half below ground to keep its occupants cool during the scorching hot summers. They had decorated stucco ceilings, of which fragments remain. The dining room would have been furnished with low divans for guests to recline on with tables before them as servants bought in endless platters of food such as chicken, a variety of meats, eggs, olives, vegetables, fruit, fresh or dried, and wine, invariably diluted with water (it was considered vulgar to drink it neat). One especially tasty morsel served as a starter was dormice dipped in honey and rolled in poppy seeds. Dinner parties could last as long as eight hours. Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 5
Fragments from Livia's dining room fresco are on display at the villa's museum.
The dining room, which seated up to 16 people at a pinch, featured one of the most beautiful and charming Roman frescos ever discovered, painted between 30-20 BC. It depicted a garden scene complete with birds, flowers and fruit, all flowering and fruiting simultaneously for maximum effect. Irises, oleanders, roses, violets, poppies, acanthus and chrysanthemums bloom in unison. Running right round the room, partridges, doves and goldfinches fly amid the sun-lit trees or feed on the fruit. A goldfinch is trapped in a small golden cage placed on a wall. The painted garden is surrounded by a picket fence with a boundary wall in the background. Discovered in 1863, it was eventually removed and restored and is on view at the Palazzo Massimo museum near Rome's central Termini station, well worth a visit for the fresco alone. The poor reproduction in the villa's dining room does not do justice to the original. The villa was inhabited and improved over the next four centuries, with better heating systems, baths, saunas and cold rooms, larger reception rooms and a swimming pool, before being 6 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
abandoned and looted in the fifth century. The remains of the villa were first unearthed in the 16th century. Serious excavation work did not take place until 1863 when, in addition to the garden fresco, an imposing statue of Augustus was discovered, now in the Vatican museums. Archaeologists continue to work on the villa today. Surrounded by a pleasant park, Livia’s villa is open on Thursdays and Fridays from 09.3013.30 and admission is free. If you don’t have a car, catch a Roma Nord train from Piazza Flaminia to Prima Porta. After visiting the villa and its little museum, followed by a walk in the park you might well feel like a bite to eat. If you do have transport, Il Grottino di Riano on Via Pian dell'Olmo in nearby Riano is a rustic trattoria serving simple Roman dishes made from fresh locally sourced ingredients. Classic Roman food at its best, the likes of which Augustus and Livia might well have enjoyed in that beautiful dining room more than 2,000 years ago, although you won't find dormice dipped in honey on the menu.
Legal Affairs
DEALING WITH RED TAPE IN ITALY GUIDE TO HELP EXPATS NAVIGATE THEIR WAY THROUGH ITALIAN BUREAUCRACY Geoffrey Watson
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(and unfriendly officials) who ask us who we are – be it to open a bank account, apply for an identity card, or simply start any official enquiry in Italy.
Here’s a brief guide to how to talk to computers
As in most other countries, we are almost always required to provide our name and date and place of birth before the conversation can get started. Simple, no? Well, not always…
any expats protest about bureaucracy in Italy, but let’s be fair: this scourge exists in every society. And as more and more forms need to be filled in online, with computers rejecting our answers and unable to understand our attempts to tell them who we are, frustration can quickly build up.
8 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Name You would think this was the easiest part, but that’s not always the case. In Italy, for official use, the correct format is surname (family name) followed by forename(s) – once known as Christian names. Yes, it makes you feel like a prisoner or a defendant in court, but you are not John Smith as you always thought, you are Smith John. It is tempting to object that nobody would think to refer to the president of the republic as Mattarella Sergio, but there it is – we’re supposed to introduce ourselves that way. To be fair, it probably makes a lot more sense for a long list of school-kids’ parents or newsletter subscribers to be sorted with all the Rossis together rather than all the Giovannas. In Italy it is relatively unusual for people to have more than one separate forename (although joined-up combinations like Giampaolo are not uncommon). So the space available for forenames on forms is usually fairly restricted. Members of the British royal family would certainly not be able to cram all their multiple forenames into an Italian form. Even if you are forced to cut off – even in the middle of a name – when the space has run out, ensure that you provide as much of your full name as you find room for: officials (and computers) will be tolerant if you run out of space, but will usually look askance at somebody claiming to be John Bernard Smith on one form (or identity document) but only John Smith on another, suspecting that these are two different people. Women can run into another problem with names, however: while it is usual for a married woman to take on her husband’s surname in North America, the UK and many other countries, the Italian custom is for her to keep her maiden name. According to the civil code dating back to 1942, the husband’s surname
is automatically added in second position after the wife’s maiden surname, but it does not normally appear on documents such as ID card, passport or driving licence. A later court sentence made this addition optional, with the bride being offered the choice, which has made for a confusing situation. When moving to Italy, women especially should ensure that their new identity documents all show the same surname, whichever version they have chosen. Date of birth This time, easy for most of us. But Americans can sometimes have problems with this because of their counter-intuitive convention of starting with the month, dropping back to the day, and then jumping two steps forward to the year. As in most other countries, Italy uses the more logical format of starting with the day, proceeding with the month and finishing with the year. Computers will of course spot and reject the US format if we try to tell them we were born on December 31, the 12th day of the 31st month, but they won’t always notice the incorrect age of an enquirer born on 08-03 (or 8 March) – they’ll simply log him or her as born on 3 August. Place of birth This is where things can become tricky, especially for foreigners (and if it’s of any comfort, also for Italians born in another country). The Italian format is to use the name of the comune or municipality of birth, followed by the two-letter code for the province, which used to be familiar to everybody from vehicle licence-plates, a format phased out in 1994 but still seen on older cars. This is quite similar to the US format of the city name followed by the abbreviated ID of the state. More and more often, the exact town of birth of a foreigner (or foreign-born Italian) isn’t Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 9
Legal Affairs required: in the place for the comune now goes the country, and in the place of the province now goes a code for “abroad” – usually EE. The problem is that computers are programmed to check that your response is acceptable and not a nonsense reply like “Somewhere, USA”. To do this, they hold a list of acceptable countries: this may be easy with a visible, drop-down list in which you find and click on the appropriate response, but it can be more frustrating with a list they don’t make visible, simply accepting or rejecting your response if it doesn’t fit with what they are programmed to recognise. This poses particular problems for Brits: a surprising number of them are not clear on the differences between England, Britain, Great Britain and United Kingdom. Unfortunately (but more understandably), nor are many Italian computer programmers. This means you may have to experiment with various possibilities until you hit on one the computer is prepared to accept, all in Italian. As good practice gradually spreads, more and more computers are being programmed to accept Regno Unito di Gran Bretagna ed Irlanda del Nord as the correct answer – and starting to input Regno Unito will usually nudge a computer to provide the remainder of this correct but unwieldy response. What will happen after Brexit, of course, is anyone’s guess. Tax code Since 1973, Italy insists on everybody having a 16-character alpha-numeric codice fiscale from birth, a similar concept to the US social security number or the British national insurance
number. The rules governing the makeup of the tax code are fairly straightforward, and can be found on Wikipedia; knowing them helps you memorise your own codice. There are also websites which offer to calculate your tax code free for you if you provide your name and date and place of birth. There is one simple piece of advice about these DIY tax codes: don’t do it. If they are not provided by, and registered with, the Agenzia delle Entrate (Inland Revenue section of the ministry of finance), there is a possibility of finishing up with an invalid code, and managing the change to a valid one can turn into a nightmare, particularly if you have already been using the invalid one for some time. Newborn babies in Italy obtain their tax code automatically from the comune of residence when their parents register the birth. NonItalians obtain their code along with their permesso di soggiorno, or residence permit. The first step is to apply for the permit, for either employment or family reunion; once the application reaches the head of the queue and the incoming expat is summoned to the immigration office to receive the permit, he or she will also be given a provisional codice fiscale to use until the definitive one is sent through the post. If you are outside Italy, it is also possible to request the issue of a tax code from an Italian consulate. And if for any reason you find yourself in Italy without a tax code, you can request it on the Agenzia delle Entrate website using form AA4/8, printed off and sent by registered mail to the Agenzia together with a photocopy of the main pages of your passport or other ID document. Anybody, Italian or not, who is entitled to join the national health service Servizio Sanitario Nazionale will be issued with a blue, credit card-sized plastic health card (tessera sanitaria). Since this also bears the codice fiscale, it is universally used for both purposes. In case of doubt check with your consulate, a notaio (notary) or with you local comune offices.
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Sport
ITALIAN OPEN TENNIS IN ROME
THE ROME MASTERS RETURNS TO THE FORO ITALICO Ed White
Some of the world's greatest tennis stars will play at the Foro Italico this month.
F
ashion, food and high-octane sport once again blend together under the late spring sunshine as the Italian Open tennis returns the Foro Italico. The tournament, also known as the Rome Masters, will see the world’s best male and female players battling it out for top glory on the red clay courts of Rome. This year’s competition will run from 12 May to its grand finale one week later on 19 May. 14 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
The prestigious event, just one of three clay court events on the worldwide Masters tour, is easy to access, with a range of ticket prices from a ground pass to the exclusive seats at the grandstand. And as well as the joys of the on-court action, organisers state the event will once again be “more than just tennis” – showing off the best of Italy throughout the statue-filled location next to the Stadio Olimpico. There will be celebrity musical performances as well as fashion outlets
Sport dotted around the grounds, while the leading tennis brands will showcase their ranges.
to a long-term injury that is threatening to put an early end to his career.
In the men’s singles, reigning champion Rafael Nadal will once again be the man to beat, having dominated events on the clay courts since he arrived onto the world stage as a fresh-faced teenager in 2005.
And sadly Federer has also decided to swerve the tournament in Rome for a fourth year running. The 36-year-old had given hope to fans after announcing that he would make a reappearance on clay in 2019 to aid his preparations for the Olympic Games in 2020. However, the Swiss legend has opted to play at the Madrid Masters, also on clay, instead of featuring in Rome.
The Spanish superstar has taken the title away from the Eternal City on a record eight occasions, including last time around when he defeated young star Alexander Zverev in a thrilling final. Nadal may now be 32 but there is little sign that he is slowing down or losing his touch and he will once again be the man to watch at the Foro Italico due to his tenacious style on the clay court. The 17-time Grand Slam winner, including 11 title victories at the French Open, continues to possess the most feared all-round game on the clay courts, with his ability to stand deep behind the baseline and hit winner after winner. However, Nadal’s supreme ability is just a part of one of the greatest eras the sport has witnessed, playing alongside the great Roger Federer as well as Serbian machine Novak Djokovic and Great Britain’s history-maker Andy Murray. Unfortunately, Murray, who won the title in Rome in 2016, will miss the Italian Open due Nadal will seek to lift the Rome title for a record ninth time.
That leaves just Nadal and four-time Rome winner Djokovic of the so-called “Big Four” competing in this year’s men’s singles championship. A host of other world stars in the 64-player draw will join the pair, with Zverev leading a younger contingent trying to take over from the veteran cohort. Included in the mix is the fiery Italian Fabio Fognini, who specialises on the red clay courts. The 31-year-old, who has won eight tour titles during his 15-year professional career, is currently ranked 17th in the world standings and will be hoping that Italian support can lift him towards a first success on home soil. Fognini’s Italian lower-ranked colleagues Matteo Berrettini, Marco Cecchinato, Andreas Seppi and Lorenzo Sonego will also be bidding to use the will of the crowd to advance through the early rounds. The women’s singles event has seen a dominant force roll into Rome for the past two years in the shape of Ukraine’s Elina Svitolina, who first won the Italian Open in 2017. She returned to make a successful defence of her crown 12 months ago with a stunning straight sets victory over the higher ranked Simona Halep (6-0 6-4), of Romania, in the final. It was the second time in a row the two had met in the final, with Halep having thrown away a winning position in 2017 as Svitolina came back to win in the Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 15
Sport
Serena Williams will seek a fifth title in Rome.
deciding third set. Unlike Nadal, Svitolina has struggled to transfer her form in Rome onto the wider world tour, with the women’s scene far more open than the men’s game.
Errani, a winner of nine career titles, presents the best hope for an Italian winner, although she has struggled to find her best form since being banned in 2017 for a failed drugs test.
That said, all eyes in Rome will be on the playing form of one woman, following the return of arguably the greatest women’s player of all time, Serena Williams, this season.
As well as the singles matches, the courts will be filled with action in both the men’s and women’s doubles towards the latter end of the week.
Williams has claimed the trophy in Rome on four occasions, with her first success dating back to 2002. The 37-year-old won three titles in four years between 2013 and 2016, including a final victory over Italy’s Sara Errani in 2014. A success this time around would give Williams another record, as she would tie alongside Chris Evert as a five-time winner of the Italian Open. Russia’s Maria Sharapova will provide competition in the draw, too, having returned to the world tour following a 12-month drugs suspension. Sharapova has lifted the trophy on three occasions in Rome since 2011. Of the rest of the field, Czech Republic’s Petra Kvitová provides an interesting side story as she continues her return to the top of the game after being stabbed in the hand during a break-in at her home. Kvitová reached the final of the Australian Open in January where she was beaten in a fiercely fought contest with Japanese star Naomi Osaka. On the domestic front, Italy’s women players have struggled to break through into the top echelons of the game this season and none has reached a quarter-final on the Women’s Tennis Association tour. 16 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Colombian pair Juan Sebastián Cabal and Robert Farah will defend their title in the men’s competition after beating Spain’s Pable Carreño Busta and Portugal’s João Sousa in a deciding tiebreak in last year’s final. Australian rising star Ashleigh Barty partnered Dutch player Demi Schuurs to glory in the women’s doubles, with Czech pair Andrea Sestini Hlaváčková and Barbora Strýcovà returning as last year’s beaten finalists. The annual event provides a feast of tennis throughout the fortnight at Foro Italico – with the action seriously hotting up towards the final rounds on 17-19 May. Tickets are generally readily available for the earlier rounds – but book in advance for the best matches at the end of the tournament. There are two main courts, the grandstand and the NextGen Arena – which focuses on the best up-and-coming talent – with plenty of “outside” courts for viewing on the stone walls with a simple ground pass. For full details including tickets and programme, see website, www.internazionalibnlditalia.com.
to do ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE
Mon Tue Wed Thu 1
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Celebrate Labour Day at the free rock concert in Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano.
Check out the 100 portraits of Rome at the Palazzo Braschi museum in Piazzza Navona.
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The Foro Italico welcomes the BNL Tennis Championship for the next two weeks.
Meet friends for an early dinner al fresco at Vivi Bistro in Villa Pamphilj.
Don’t miss the World Press Photo exhibition at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni.
Check out EXPO Consumatori, Italy’s only festival dedicated to sustainability, at Casa del Cinema.
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Life in ancient Rome comes to life with spectacular multimedia shows each night in the Roman Forum.
See Leonardo da Vinci’s only Rome painting for free in St Peter’s Square.
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Engage with Italian artist Paola Pivi’s immersive site-specific work at MAXXI.
Rent a rowing boat and Four days of health, sport explore the little lake in and solidarity sponsored Villa Borghese. by the Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure begin at Circus Maximus.
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Impress your friends Try a new summer look with experts at Toni & with a tour of S. Ignazio Guy salons around the church where optical illusions delight the eye. city. WiR cardholders get discount on services.
Head to Bau Beach for some fresh air for you and your pup. Show your WiR card for reduced entry fee.
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Make a sweet pilgrimage to the Said Chocolate Factory in the S. Lorenzo area.
Be fascinated and even slightly spooked at Rome’s doll hospital on Via di Ripetta.
Catch the show of renowned British sculptor Richard Long at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.
See a new production from Teatro dell’Opera di Roma titled The Fiery Angel. Receive ticket discount with your WiR card.
Foto di edoardo taloni da Pixabay
Fri
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May Sun 2019 5
Experience Scandinavian culture with the Nordic Film Festival at Casa del Cinema.
La Casina di Raffaello in Villa Borghese offers a “make your own stamp” art workshop for three to 14-year-olds.
Enrique Inglesias performs at Palalottomatica as his only Italian date on the All the Hits Live tour.
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Garden fans will flock to The eighth edition of the Festival del Verde at Open House kicks off the Auditorium Parco today with guided tours della Musica. of more than 200 notable buildings around Rome.
Visit the Botanic Garden in Trastevere to enjoy the greenhouses and tropical plants.
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The St Petersburg Notte dei Musei returns with events in Rome’s philharmonic presents a night with Tchaikovsky museums, open late into the night. at S. Cecilia. Discount for WiR cardholders.
Godfather of disco Giorgio Moroder shares his music and stories at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.
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Visit the majestic Odescalchi Castle in Bracciano, an hour north of Rome by train.
Immerse yourself in the ancient Greek and Roman world at Palazzo Massimo.
Pass the spring day walking through Ostia Antica and its rich history.
31 Have a laugh with Rome's Comedy Club in the Ostiense district.
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del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.
CULTURAL FORUM CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE DEMY IN ROME CASACENTRE DI GOETHE AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE an Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the The centre offers cultural events such asvon filmGoethe screenings, ademy in Rome works to promote research and Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, d culture of Austria. Viale Buozzi 113, tel. lectures, debates and theatre. Toniolo 066802629, dy in the arts humanities. Via Angelo offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout thetel. year. history andand culture of Bruno Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. lectures, debates andLargo theatre. Largo 20, Toniolo 20, Via tel. 066802629, www.austriacult.roma.it. www.ifcsl.com. 810788, www.aarome.org. del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. www.ifcsl.com.www.casadigoethe.it.
ACADEMY CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA BELGIAN ACADEMY CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA URAL FORUM CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural The centre offers courses Portuguese and samba Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba ltural Forum hosts events dedicated to the Therelations centre offers cultural events such ofasBrazilian film screenings, between and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists and meetings with writers conferences ly and byViale sponsoring artists lectures, anddebates hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on on ure of Belgium Austria.Italy Bruno researchers Buozzi 113,and tel. andhosts theatre. Largo Toniolo 20,and tel.filmmakers, 066802629, Omero 8, www.academiabelgica.it. tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. Brazilian and literature and screenings of Brazilian Omeroin8,Italy. tel. Via 063201889, Brazilian literature screenings of Brazilian movies.movies. PiazzaPiazza austriacult.roma.it. www.ifcsl.com. 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iNavona 18,Navona tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iBRITISH COUNCIL OUNCIL MY CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. The British Council promotes the English languaget/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. and h promotes the English language and The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba emyCouncil facilitates scientific cultural relations appreciation in Italy and of the UK’s creative ideas and achievemenDANISH ACADEMY nBelgium in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievemenDANISH ACADEMY researchers artistswww.britishcouncil.it. and hosts meetings with writers and is filmmakers, on to Danish ts. by Viasponsoring di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. and 06478141, The Danish Academy an institutionconferences that offers support 16, tel.www.academiabelgica.it. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. Brazilian Theliterature Danish artists Academy is an Via institution that support to Danish oSebastianello 8, tel. 063201889, andinscreenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Rome. Omero 18, tel.offers 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME artists Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. 18, intel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iCHOOL ATBritish ROMESchool at Rome brings scholars, artists,Navona The researchers DUTCH INSTITUTE IL t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. Schoolpromotes at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers DUTCH INSTITUTE and architects Britain to create The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers uncil the from English language anda cultural exchange between Britain Italy. Gramsci 61, tel. DANISH 063264939, and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via ects Britain to and create a Via cultural exchange TheACADEMY Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers ly of from the UK’s creative ideas and achievemenOmero tel. 063269621, www.knir.it. ritain www.bsr.ac.uk. and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, The Danish and serves as aisbridge between Dutch universities Italy. Via tianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. Academy an10,institution that offers support toand Danish .uk. 10,Via tel.Omero 063269621, artistsOmero in Rome. 18, tel.www.knir.it. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. 20 | May 2019 •• april Wanted in |Rome in Rome 2017 4 L AT Wanted ROME • april l at Rome brings2017 scholars, DUTCH INSTITUTE | 4 artists, researchers Rome
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EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY
KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poe – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE
YPTIAN ACADEMY FRENCH ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African e Egyptian Academy Arabian, and African The culture French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and art tobrings Italy. Via Omero 4,Egyptian tel. 063201896, www.accature and art to Italy. Via Omero tel. 063201896, www.accaand provides exhibitions and 4, festivals throughout the year. Viale demiaegitto.org. miaegitto.org. Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.
KEATS-SHELLEY NORWEGIANMEMORIAL INSTITUTE HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets Museum to Bysshe the lives of Romantic The dedicated Norwegian Institute in three Rome offers undergraduate an – John Keats, Percy Shelley and English Lord Byron. Piazza poets di – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley ancient and Lord Byron. Piazza diVia graduate courses in art history, studies and Italian. Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. Spagna tel. 33, 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. 3026, Aprile tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.
ENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France GERMAN ACADEMY provides exhibitions andGerman festivals throughout theFrance year. Viale e French Academy at Villaoffers Medici hosts artists, artists writers, from The and German Academy musicians dei Monti 1, tel.festivals 066761305, www.villamedici.it. d provides exhibitions and the year. Viale and Trinità architects the opportunity tothroughout study in Rome. Largo di Villa nitàMassimo deiGERMAN Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. ACADEMY
NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute INSTITUTE in Rome offers undergraduate and POLISH CULTURAL courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian.as Viale Thegraduate Norwegian Institute in Polish Rome offers undergraduate andas th Institution dedicated to history and culture well 30promotion Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. graduate courses art history, ancientPoland studiesand andItaly. Italian. Viale ofin dialogue between Via Vittor 30 POLISH Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. CULTURAL INSTITUTE
FRENCH ACADEMY
NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE
RMAN ACADEMY GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa e German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians ThisMassimo institute conducts research into the history of Germany 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. architects opportunity study in Rome. both Largocountries. di Villa Via and Italy, the in particular the to relations between HISTORICAL INSTITUTE ssimo 1,GERMAN tel.Antica 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. Aurelia 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.
Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the an The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Vittoria a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy.Via Vicolo Doria POLISH OF SCIENCE Colonna 1, ACADEMY tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it.
RMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE GOETHE INSTITUT and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Antica 391, tel. 066604921, s institute conducts research into thewww.dhi-roma.it. history of Germany The Aurelia Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German d Italy, in particular the relations both 15, countries. Via culture, language and history.between Via Savoia tel. 068440051, GOETHE INSTITUT www.goethe.de. relia Antica 391, tel.Institut 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. The Goethe promotes education in Italy about German
POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE ROMANIAN ACADEMY a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. Thetel.Polish Academy is a research centre for the The Romanian Academy hosts events andhumanities promotes and cultur a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Doria 2, relations between Romania and Italy. PiazzaVicolo Josè di S. Martin ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel.Romanian 063201594, www.accadromania.it. tel.The 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. Academy hosts events and promotes cultural
The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians
This institute conducts research into the history of Germany
The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and
relations between RomaniaOF andCULTURE Italy. PiazzaAND Josè LANGUAGE di S. Martin 1, RUSSIAN INSTITUTE ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. The Russian Institutehosts provides classes Russian language The Romanian Academy events and inpromotes cultural an RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF LANGUAGE culture. Via Farini 62,CULTURE tel. relations between Romania and064870137. Italy.AND Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and tel.The 063201594, www.accadromania.it. SPANISH ACADEMY culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137. events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via The Spanish Academy hosts artists many fields of study an INSTITUTO CERVANTES RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE ANDinLANGUAGE NGARIAN GiuliaACADEMY 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. SPANISH ACADEMY holds events thatprovides provide classes a cultural bridge between Instituto Cervantes is aincultural createdliterary to promote The Russian Institute in Russian languageSpain and an e Academy of Hungary Rome institution hosts concerts, The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and INSTITUTO CERVANTES Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137. ntsthe and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. lia16, 1, tel. www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. Italy. Piazza S. INSTITUTE Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. the066889671, teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani SWEDISH OF CLASSICAL STUDIES SPANISH ACADEMY 16, CERVANTES tel.INSTITUTE 068551949, www.cervantes.es. The Swedish Institute isartists a research centre dedicated scient ITALIAN FOR LATIN AMERICA TheSWEDISH Spanish Academy hosts in many fields of studytoand STITUTO INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES fic research in is arta aresearch and archaeology. ViatoOmero 14, te TheCervantes Italo-Latin Institute facilitates into the holds The Swedish Institute centre dedicated scientiITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA events that provide cultural bridge between Spain and tituto isAmerican a cultural institution createdresearch to promote fic 063201596, research inwww.isvroma.it. artin and archaeology. Via Omero www.raer.it. 14, tel. TheofItalo-Latin American Institute facilitates into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects Italy and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, teaching Spanish language and culture. Via diresearch Villaof Albani 063201596, www.isvroma.it. cultural, scientific, economic social aspects of Italy American countries. ViaandGiovanni Paisiello 24,and tel. tel.Latin 068551949, www.cervantes.es. SWISSINSTITUTE INSTITUTEOF CLASSICAL STUDIES SWEDISH Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org. The INSTITUTE Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classe TheSWISS Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientiLIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA 06684921, www.iila.org. The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicatedinto art the and culture of Switzerland. Ludovisi 48, te JAPANESEAmerican CULTURAL INSTITUTE fic research archaeology. Via Via Omero 14, tel. e Italo-Latin Institute facilitates research into the dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. Thescientific, Japanese economic Cultural Institute hosts hostsofregular cultural 063201596, www.isvroma.it. tural, and social aspects Italy and 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural andand also offers courses ininJapanese. Via Gramsci 74,tel. tel. in events American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. events also offers courses Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, SWISS INSTITUTE 063224754, www.jfroma.it. 684921, www.iila.org. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. ANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. e Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural nts and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 3224754, www.jfroma.it.
culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, HUNGARIAN ACADEMY ETHE INSTITUT www.goethe.de. The Academy of Hungary in Rome hostsabout concerts, literary e Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy German HUNGARIAN events and exhibitions by Via Hungarian artists scholars. Via ture, language and ACADEMY history. Savoia 15, tel. and 068440051, The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. w.goethe.de.
Wanted in Rome • May •2019 21 | 4 Wanted in Rome april| 2017
Wanted in Rome • april 201
ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museumof 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Borghese Museum
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings
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Via della Lungara, 233 00165 Rome, Italy +39 066819121 Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 23
24 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Fondazione Pastifico Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.
Fondazione Memmo
Associazione Culturale
Franz Paludetto
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Frutta
Ex Elettrofonica
Gagosian Gallery
Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Federica Schiavo Gallery
Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.
Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea
The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
26 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it. Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch
This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea
Montoro 12
Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
Galleria Varsi
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Monserrato Arte ‘900
This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 27
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WHAT’S ON
Alice Pasquini's new mural in Quadraro. Photo Jessica Stewart. See Art News page 36.
Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 29
FESTIVALS
30 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
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EXHIBITIONS
EXHIBITIONS PAOLO DI PAOLO: MONDO PERDUTO 17 April-23 June
World Press Photo at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Catalina Martin-Chico | Panos Online.
WORLD PRESS PHOTO 25 April-26 May
Palazzo delle Esposizioni showcases the work of the 43 finalists, from 25 countries, of the 62nd World Press Photo Festival, a prestigious annual event held in recognition of international photojournalism. This year the competition adds a major new award: the World Press Photo Story of the Year, honouring the photographer whose “visual creativity and skills produced a story with excellent editing and sequencing that captures or represents an event or issue of great journalistic importance in 2018.” Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06696271, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.
where the Sala 1 gallery is also located. O’Leary’s works give a contemporary interpretation to the priceless treasures found inside the cypress wooden casket, or ark, hidden away for centuries in the Sancta Sanctorum before being opened and moved to the Vatican in 1906. O’Leary displays assembled fragments of materials and sculptures in an apparently random way in the gallery, replicating the creative emphasis of a craftsman’s workshop. Sala 1, Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
MAXXI presents the photographs of Paolo di Paolo in an exhibition it describes as a “delicate, rigorous and wise recount” of an Italy emerging from the ashes of world war two. Di Paolo published more than 500 photographs in the former Italian weekly news magazine Il Mondo in the 1950s and 1960s, chronicling figures from the worlds of art, culture, fashion and cinema as well as ordinary people. Di Paolo’s photographs, rediscovered after over 50 years of neglect, include images of Pier Paolo Pasolini at Monte dei Cocci in Rome, Tennesse Williams with his dog, Anna Magnani with her son at Circeo, and Sofia Loren joking with Marcello Mastroianni at Cinecittà studios. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
MOTHER & CHILD 13 April-6 June
Dorothy Circus presents a double show at its galleries in Rome and London. The Rome exhibition features the work of around 25 international artists, both established and emerging, who have been invited to explore the theme of motherhood in its deepest sense, “visualising the paradigms of our time, through an overview of the latest philosophical and sociological
Safe House by Helen O’Leary at Sala 1.
SAFE HOUSE
17 April-17 May
Sala 1 presents an exhibition by Irish artist Helen O’Leary, winner of the American Academy in Rome Prize 2018-2019 in Visual Arts with her project proposal Safe House. The work takes inspiration from the Sancta Sanctorum (or “holiest of holies”), the ancient private chapel of the popes located in the Scala Santa complex Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 31
32 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
trends.” The participating artists, each of whom has created one new work specially, come predominantly from backgrounds in Pop Surrealism as well as New Figurative Art, Urban Art, and Asian Art movements. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.
ELISABETTA CATALANO 3 April-22 Dec
GIANNI POLITI: IN THE BELLY OF THE SERPENT 11 April-15 May
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents an exhibition of more than 20 large paintings by Roman artist Gianni Politi. The show is divided into two groups: colourful abstract paintings which Politi refers to as interior landscapes; and portraits based on a 1770 work by the neoclassical Italian painter Gaetano Gandolfi of a bearded man, an image which reminded Politi of his father, who died aged 78 when the artist was just 16. See cover this edition. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo Dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill. com.
CLAUDIO IMPERATORE 6 April-27 Oct
The Ara Pacis holds a major exhibition dedicated to Claudius, one of the most controversial Roman emperors, who ruled from AD 41 to 54. Featuring historical and archaeological artefacts, the exhibition highlights the life and reign of Claudius, from his birth in Lyon in 10 BC until his death in Rome in 54 AD. The exhibition places a particular focus on the emperor's personality, his political and administrative work, his ties to Augustus and his brother Germanicus, as well as his tragic relationship with his wives Messalina and Agrippina. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.
MEMORIA DEL PERÙ: FOTOGRAFIE DAL 1890-1950 5 April-26 May
Museo di Roma in Trastevere presents a photographic exhibition dedicated to Peru and the Peruvian people, spanning the decades between 1890 and 1950. The images on display illustrate
Mother and Child at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Super Kishimojin by Yosuke Ueno.
“stories of conquest and migration” as well as providing social, cultural and geographical insights into the South American country. Piazza di S. Egidio 1b, tel. 060608, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.
ROMA: IL RACCONTO DI CENTO DONNE 4 April-12 May
100 faces, 100 lives, 100 roles: 100 women tell their story of Rome. This is the focus of photographic project created by Jacopo Brogioni, and curated by Studio Fuksas, on display in the Palazzo dei Conservatori at the Capitoline Museums. There are artists and designers, refugees and nuns, pilots and soldiers, princesses and politicians, even the mayor herself. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, www. museocapitolini.org.
The MAXXI pays homage to Elisabetta Catalano (1944-2015), a Roman fine-art photographer who specialised in portraits. The exhibition features slides, photos and vintage prints, investigating in particular the relationship between Catalano’s photography and performance art, presenting portraits of artists such as Joseph Beuys, Fabio Mauri, Vettor Pisani and Cesare Tacchi during the preparatory phases of the performative process. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www. maxxi.art.
PAOLA PIVI: WORLD RECORD 3 April-8 Sept
MAXXI showcases the work of the award-winning Italian multimedia artist Paola Pivi whose oeuvre includes performance, sculpture and large-scale installations. She is also known for her photographic representations of animals in performative happenings in sometimes ironic and surprising contexts. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
Memoria del Perù at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Campesino cusqueño by Cesar Meza, 1945.
ULTRA_SUR
4 April-30 May
Ultra_Sur is a project dedicated to contemporary art between Italy and Chile, comprising an exhibition and series of artist talks at MACRO Asilo. The project is organised by Sinopsis Australis, a programme of art residencies between Italy and South America, and is promoted by the Chilean embassy in Rome which hosts the exhibition. The show features the works of 10 Chilean artists and one Italian artist. MACRO Asilo, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.it. Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 33
ROMA NELLA CAMERA OSCURA 27 March-22 Sept
Palazzo Braschi hosts an exhibition comprising photographs of Rome spanning from the birth of the medium in the mid-19th century to the present day. The earliest images on display illustrate the topographical, historical and social aspects that characterised the final years of papal Rome as well as the emergence of the profession of the photgrapher and the beginning of the photograph’s role as a souvenir for tourists and pilgrims. The images in the exhibition are the work of both Italian and foreign photographers including Britain’s Robert Macpherson and James Anderson. Museo di Roma, Piazza S. Pantaleo 10 / Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.
MORTALI IMMORTALI: TESORI DEL SICHUAN NELL’ANTICA CINA 26 March-18 Oct
The Markets of Trajan presents an exhibition showcasing treasures belonging to the Shu people, an ancient civilisation in what is now the Sichuan province in southwest China. On display are finds in bronze, gold, jade and terracotta, dating from the Bronze Age to the Han period (second century AD), Mortali Immortali, tesori del Sichuan nell’antica Cina at Trajan’s Markets. Bronze head with gold mask, Shang dynasty (1600-1046 BC), Sanxingdui Museum.
Roma, il racconto di 100 donne by Jacopo Brogioni at Capitoline Museums. Cecilia, Via Margutta.
on loan from important Chinese museums. Mercati di Traiano, Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.
LEONARDO DA VINCI ST JEROME IN THE WILDERNESS
ALBERTO BURRI E IL GRANDE CRETTO DI GIBELLINA
The Vatican displays St Jerome in the Wilderness, an unfinished painting by Leonardo da Vinci, on the 500th anniversary of the death of the Renaissance genius. Dating from around 1480, the painting is on display at a free exhibition at the Braccio di Carlo Magno in St Peter’s square. The painting depicts St Jerome kneeling in a rocky landscape in the Syrian desert where he lived the life of a hermit in the fourth century. Although little is known about the work and its commission, the Vatican Museums director Barbara Jatta says “there has never been any doubt about the signature and critics are all in agreement”. The painting can be seen Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sat from 10.00-18.00 (last entry 17.30). Wed 13.30-18.00 (last entry 17.30). Sun closed.
23 March-9 June
Rome’s Carlo Bilotti Museum celebrates the Grande Cretto di Gibellina, the enormous lanscape installation undertaken by Italian artist Alberto Burri (1915-1995) at the ancient Sicilian city of Gibellina, destroyed by an earthquake in 1968. The exhibition traces the evolution of Burri’s work – the world’s largest example of Land Art – which the artist began in 1984. Burri’s installation, which features a giant, shroud-like cracked concrete casting, was left unfinished in 1989 due to lack of funds but was finally completed in 2015 to mark what would have been his 100th birthday. Museo di Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia, tel. 060608, www. museocarlobilotti.it.
MAETERNITà
23 March-2 June
An exhibition at the National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia focuses on issues concerning motherhood and breastfeeding in the Etruscan and Roman world. On display are numerous votive statuettes, many of them making their first appearance outside of museum storage, highlighting the role of mothers in raising their children in the family home. Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, wwww.villagiulia.beniculturali.it.
34 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
22 March-22 June
UNIVERSO MIRÓ
22 March-11 May
Palazzo Montorio, the magnificent residence of the Spanish ambassador in Rome, hosts an exhibition dedicated to Joan Miró (1893-1983), the celebrated Spanish painter, sculptor and ceramicist. The exhibition allows the public to admire three paintings and two sculptures created by Mirò between 1972 and 1974, in a usually inaccessible venue. The exhibition is organised thanks to collaboration with the Spanish embassy in Italy. For visiting details see website, www.piazzadispagna.es.
UNSEEN
22 March-26 May
The Museo di Roma in Trastevere stages an exhibition described as a “photographic journey into an unknown Europe, cut off from economic development, from the attention of politics and the media.” Four photographers – Jutta Benzenberg, Andrei Liankevich, Livio Senigalliesi and Mila Teshaieva – captured images of family life in rural areas and small towns in Albania, among the vast Polesia swamplands in Belarus, in Saxony-Anhalt in the former East Germany and in the coal-mining area of Sulcis in Sardinia. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.
GIACOMO BALLA
21 March-17 June
An exhibition of paintings by Giacomo Balla, considered Italy’s foremost exponent of Futurism, is hosted at Palazzo Merulana, Rome’s newest art museum. Titled From Abstract Futurism to Iconic Futurism, the show examines Balla’s artistic journey, taking as its starting point the Portrait of Primo Carnera (1933), held in the permanent collection of Palazzo Merulana. Painted on both sides, on one side is represented a typically Futurist subject, Vaprofumo, of 1926. A few years later, in 1933, the artist painted Carnera, in a notably different style, on the other side. Wed-Sun 10.00-20.00. Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.
ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE: L’OBIETTIVO SENSIBILE 15 March-30 June
Galleria Corsini showcases the work of celebrated American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe (1946-1999) on the 30th anniversary of his death. The show comprises 45 photographs by Mapplethorpe who courted much controversy in the US over the homoerotic nature of his work. The Rome exhibition focuses on some of the artist’s less controversial themes such as still lifes, landscapes, classical statues and Renaissance composition. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www. barberinicorsini.org.
LEONARDO DA VINCI: LA SCIENZA PRIMA DELLA SCIENZA 13 March-28 July
The Scuderie del Quirinale holds a major exhibition devoted to Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci on the 500th anniversary of his death. Entitled La scienza prima della scienza, the exhibition includes works that offer insights into da Vinci’s technical and scientific advances within the cultural context of his era. The exhibition showcases his designs for flying machines, his use of perspective, his studies for an ideal city, and his masterful mix of classical tradition and scientific innovation. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0292897722, www. scuderiequirinale.it.
Unseen at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Belarus by Andrei Liankevich.
St Jerome in the Wilderness by Leonardo da Vinci on display at St Peter’s Square.
DONNE: CORPO E IMMAGINE TRA SIMBOLO E RIVOLUZIONE 24 Jan-13 Oct
Rome’s municipal modern art gallery highlights the evolution of the female image in art from the late 19th century to the present day. The 100 works on display – including paintings, sculpture, photographs and video – reveal how women have been portrayed variously as objects of admiration and mystery or as angels and temptresses, until artists caught up with a more modern age in the 1960s. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.
DREAM: L’ARTE INCONTRA I SOGNI 29 Sept-25 Aug
The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of dreamthemed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey”, and completing the trilogy of shows begun with Love in 2016 and Enjoy last year. The international artists include major names such as Anselm Kiefer, Anish Kapoor, Bill Viola and Luigi Ontani. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.
ART NEWS VENICE BIENNALE 2019
The 58th edition of the prestigious Venice Biennale, taking place from 11 May-24 November, is under the direction of the American-born, UK-based curator Ralph Rugoff, director of London’s Hayward Gallery. The 2019 biennale is titled May You Live in Interesting Times however, unusually, it does not have a theme, with Rugoff arguing that “very little experimentation” happens when artists are constrained. The Biennale features 79 international artists and 91 national pavilions, with five countries participating for the first time: Algeria, Ghana, Madagascar, Malaysia and Pakistan. This year there is also a section dedicated to refugees with five artists in residence until 23 May; Rasha Deeb from Syria now living in Germany, Majid Adin from Iran who spent time in the jungle before reaching the UK, Mohamed Keita from the Ivory Coast, now living in Rome, Bnar Sardar Sidiq from Kurdistan now living in the UK and Hassan Yare from Somalia now living in the Hagadera part of the vast Dadaab complex in Kenya. The work includes abstract painting, video, animation and photography. The US pavilion features work by Martin Puryear, a 77-year-old African-American artist whose sculptures blend abstraction, craft traditions and historical forms to reference themes such as democracy and liberty. Representing the UK is Cathy Wilkes whose melancholic and mysterious sculptures are made from old household objects and evoke a sense of loss. Italy is represented by three artists: multimedia artist Enrico David, conceptual artist Liliana Moro and the late performance artist Chiara Fumai, who died by suicide aged 39 in Bari last year. The 58th Venice showcase of contemporary international art is now 124 years old and is divided between the historic Giardini and Arsenale sites. For full details see website, www.labiennale.org.
36 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
GUCCI AT CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS
Luxury fashion house Gucci will present its 2020 Cruise collection fashion show on 28 May in the Capitoline Museums in Rome. The news, announced by Maison Gucci together with the city, will see the fashion house contribute financially to the restoration of the Tarpeian Rock site over the next two years. Gucci will pay for the upgrading of paths and the installation of a new lighting system but the amount of money being donated has not been revealed. This 25-m high cliff is located on the southern summit of the Capitoline Hill, overlooking the Roman Forum, near the Capitoline Museums. Composed mainly of porous tufa rock, the cliff was used during the Roman Republic as an execution site, from which traitors were flung to their deaths. Gucci’s prefall 2019 collection was shot in Italy’s archaeological parks of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Selinunte.
NEW MURALS BY ALICE PASQUINI AND ALESSANDRA CARLONI
The street art credentials of Rome’s Quadraro suburb have been enhanced further by the creation of two new murals by Roman street artists Alice Pasquini and Alessandra Carloni. The new works were undertaken as part of the third edition of Muri Scuri, which hosted a weekend of street art tours and related events while raising funds for Grisciano, a town in the Rieti province hit by an earthquake in 2016. Pasquini’s mural is on Via Fabrizio Luscino 14 while Carloni’s work can be found on Via Selinunte 49. Andy Devane
20-26 MAGGIO 2019
piazzadisiena.it
CLASSICAL RADU LUPU 13 May
Recital by pianist Radu Lupu plays two Schubert sonatas. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
Antonio Pappano and the S. Cecilia orchestra perform at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 9-11 May and then tour Europe.
ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA
In July there will be the annual concerts and recitals in the lovely gardens at the academy’s headquarters on Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA DANIELE GATTI - BRAHMS 3, 4, 5 May
Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra playing Brahms concerto no 2 and symphony no 2, with Yefim Bronfman piano. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
JOHN ELIOT GARDINER ENGLISH BAROQUE SOLOISTS MONTEVERDI CHOIR 8 May
John Eliot Gardiner conducts Handel’s oratorio Semele, which first performed in Covent Garden in 1744. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
LISA BATIASHVILLI 9-11 May
Conductor and musical director Antonio Pappano and the S. Cecilia orchestra perform music by Mussorgski, Bartok and RimskyKorsakov together with violin soloist Lisa Batiashvilli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
38 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
ANTONIO PAPPANO S. CECILIA - TOURNÉE 13-25 May
Lisa Batiaschvilli will also be with Antonio Pappano and the S. Cecilia orchestra on their tournée to Luxembourg, Vienna, Prague, Freiburg and Essen from 13-24 May performing almost the same programme as the one performed at S. Cecilia on 9-11 May. Pappano will then go on to conduct the S. Cecilia orchestra in London at the Barbican on 25 May where they perform Mahler’s symphony no 6. www.auditorium.com.
TCHAIKOVSKY’S VIOLIN CONCERTO 17-18 May
Yuri Temirkanov conducts the St Petersburg Philarmonica playing Tchaikovsky’s Eugene Onegin (the polonaise concerto) and Prokofiev’s symphony no 5, with Sakaya Shoji violin. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
MAHLER’S RESURRECTION 30-31 May, 1 June
Mikko Franck conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Mahler’s symphony no 2, known as the Resurrection, which was first performed in 1895 and was one of the composer’s most successful symphonies during his life time. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.
ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI FRESU, GALLIANO, LUNDGREN 7 May
Mare Nostrum is the title of the concert given by this trio of Paolo
Fresu on the trombone and flugelhorn, Richard Galliano on the accordion and Jan Lundgren on the piano. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www. concertiiuc.it.
CONCERTO KŐLN QUATTRO STAGIONI 11 May
This chamber music ensemble, which specialises in baroque music, together with Giuliano Carmignola violin, plays music by Dall’Abaco, Avison, Bach and, as one would expect from the title of the concert, Vivaldi. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www. concertiiuc.it.
UTO UGHI 18 May
Celebrity violinist Uto Ughi marks 60 years of concerts with the IUC. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.
ORCHESTRA GIOVANILE DI ROMA GIAN MARCO CIAMPA 25 May
Rome-born Gian Marco Ciampa plays the classical guitar with the Orchestra Giovanile di Roma conducted by Vincenzo Di Benedetto. They perform a varied programme of music by Castelnuovo-Tedesco, Schubert, Mozart, Beethoven and Respighi. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.
ROME CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 13-17 June
This chamber music festival for young talented musicians returns to Palazzo Barberini (Salone da Pietro Cortona) with its artistic director and founder Robert McDuffie. This year the festival is held in conjunction with De Simone and Partners Young Artist programme which was founded 10 years ago. Musicians who have participated in the project over the past decade have been invited to perform in
Rome this year. The programme features Copeland’s Appalachian Spring, Tchaikovsky’s Souvenir de Florence and Mendelssohn’s Octet, composed when Mendelssohn was only 16. Rehearsals from 11-17 June are open to the public. The concert on 16 June is by invitation only
and on 17 June the concert will be available on the festival website. www.romechamberfestival.org.
OTHER VENUES Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within
ROCK, POP, JAZz
the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts.
Ben Harper and the Innocent Criminals perform at Auditorium Parco della Musica.
worldwide. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
TEARS FOR FEARS 9 July
KRAFTWERK 27-28 June
Kraftwerk fans in Rome can look forward to two concerts by the pioneering German electronic musicians this summer. The innovative German group will perform two nights in a row for Rock in Roma in the ancient setting of the Teatro Romano at Ostia Antica. Since forming in Düsseldorf in 1970, Kraftwerk has had a profound influence on a new generation of musicians, particularly those working in electronic music. The band’s signature sound combines repetitive rhythms with catchy melodies and simplified lyrics. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone. com. Teatro Romano di Ostia Antica.
the British band’s original members: Gary Barlow, Howard Donald and Mark Owen. The group was phenomenally successful in the 1990s, securing 12 number one singles and eight number one albums in the UK, with hits such as Could It Be Magic and Relight My Fire. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
TOTO
Tears for Fears will perform in Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica on 9 July as part of the Roma Summer Fest programme. The English band, whose sound is classified variously as new wave, pop rock and synth rock, comes to Rome to promote its greatest hits album Rule The World. Formed in 1981 by Roland Orzabal and Curt Smith, the group achieved huge success in the 1980s with hits such as Shout, Sowing The Seeds of Love and Everybody Wants to Rule The World. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
BEN HARPER 13 July
The award-winning singer-songwriter and
American musician
4 July
American rock band Toto celebrates 40 years with a concert at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 4 July, as part of the 2019 line-up of the Roma Summer Fest. Formed in 1977 in Los Angeles, Toto achieved massive success with hits such as Hold the Line, Rosanna, and Africa. 29 June Over the last four decades, the group Tickets are on sale for a concert by has released 17 studio albums, and Take That at the Auditorium Parco has sold over 40 million records della Musica on 29 June, to celebrate the band’s 30th anniversary tour. The Mark Knopfler will perform at the concert, part of the Roma Summer Baths of Caracalla this summer. Fest programme, will feature three of
TAKE THAT
Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 39
Ben Harper returns to Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica on 13 July. The open-air concert, part of the Roma Summer Fest programme, will see Harper accompanied by his band The Innocent Criminals. Harper’s musical style involves an eclectic mix of blues, folk, soul, reggae and rock music. He is known for his energetic live shows as well as his hits such as Diamonds on the Inside and Waiting
on an Angel. Auditorium Parco della programme, on 20 and 21 July. The Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, British guitarist and singer-songwriter is best known as the frontman and www.auditorium.com. driving force behind the rock band Dire Straits, which he co-founded in 1977. When the group disbanded in 20-21 July 1995, Knopfler embarked on a solo Mark Knopfler will perform two career. Knopfler and Dire Straits have outdoor concerts at the Baths of sold in excess of 120 million albums Caracalla as part of the Teatro to date. For ticket details see opera dell’Opera di Roma summer house website, www.operaroma.it.
MARK KNOPFLER
Angelin Preljocaj’s choreography of Snow White is no Walt Disney version of the fairytale.
DANCE
MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA BELLA ADDORMENTATA NEL BOSCO 26 June-9 July
The Nureyev choreography of Tchaikovsky’s classical Russian ballet, with stars Polina Semionova (26 and 29 June) and Svetlana Zakharova (5 and 9 July) alternating in the lead role. Nureyev’s version, based on Petipa’s original choreography, was first performed at La Scala in 1966
music is a recorded version of parts of Mahler’s nine symphonies with extra music by 79D. Preljocaj’s 2008 choreography is not a sugary Walt Disney-like version of the story but a rather tough and sometimes violent and shocking view of the adult world, but one where love wins out in the end. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.
ROMEO E GIULIETTA BY PROKOFIEV 30 July-12 Aug
The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma moves to the Baths of Caracalla for its summer season with Prokofiev’s but has not been staged at the Milan Romeo and Juliet, choreography theatre for 12 years. Teatro alla by Giuliano Peparini, one-time Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. assistant to Roland Petit and artistic director behind the Italian teatroallascala. popular television programme Amici di Maria De Filippi on Canale 5. The work’s full title is Romeo and Giulietta – Ama e cambia il Mondo and it was first performed in Verona and then in Rome in 2013 and was part of last year’s Caracalla festival. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, 3-9 May www.operaroma.it. The choreography is by Angelin Preljocaj with the ballet corp of the For more dance events see section on Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. The Festivals out of Rome.
ROME
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA BLANCHE NEIGE ANGELIN PRELJOCAJ
MOVIMENTO LIBERO
The Oriente and Occidente festival along with Centro Internazionale della Danza is in Matera while the city is the European Capital of Culture this year. Together with the Fondazione for Matera and the British Council it presents Movimento Libero, a festival to explore the accessibility of those with different abilities to art and culture with performances, roundtable discussions and workshops. Accessibility for the disabled means not only overcoming physical barriers that make it difficult to gain access to certain locations, but also providing opportunities to professions in the arts. The project Europe Beyond Access, which is promoted by the Onassis Centre, Kampnagel and Holland Dance festival, is working to break down barriers between the arts and disability across Europe, particularly in theatre and dance. www.disabilityartsinternational.org/creative-europe-announcement. Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 41
Festival del Verde e del Paesaggio at Auditorium Parco della Musica.
FESTIVALS NORDIC FILM FEST 2-5 May
The eighth edition of Rome’s Nordic Film Fest takes place as usual at the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese. The festival promotes the film industry and culture of the Nordic countries, and includes Italian premieres, documentaries and short films, in addition to encounters with actors and directors. The event is organised with the embassies of Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden, along with Rome’s Circolo Scandinavo. Films are screened in original language with subtitles in Italian. Free entry. The programme was not available at the time of going to press. For details see website, www.nordicfilmfestroma.com.
FESTIVAL DEL VERDE E DEL PAESAGGIO 10-12 May
Breathe - Respiro is the theme of the ninth edition of the annual Festival del Verde e del Paesaggio taking place once more on the roof gardens of Rome's Auditorium Parco della Musica from 10-12 May. The threeday festival dedicated to gardening, landscape gardening, designer gardens and terraces has exhibitors throughout its 25,000-sqm outdoor space. Visitors to the family-friendly event will find an extensive range of plants on sale as well as outdoor furniture, hammocks, sculpture and gardening equipment. The festival has innovative landscape installations and experts on hand to provide gardening tips and horticultural
42 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
advice, as well as a children’s play area and garden-themed cultural events. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.festivaldelverdeedelpaesaggio.it.
OPEN HOUSE ROMA 11-12 May
Registration is now open for the 2019 edition of Open House Roma which involves more than 200 of Rome’s museums, libraries, galleries, studios, academies and contemporary buildings - to which there is normally limited public access - opening free of charge over the weekend of 1112 May. Since its launch in 2012, the annual initiative dedicated to Rome’s varied architectural design has opened up hundreds of interesting, important and sometimes off-limits buildings. Highlights of the eighth edition include guided tours of the unfinished Città dello sport in Tor Vergata; the Hertziana and Lateranense libraries; and the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana - the headquarters of fashion house Fendi. The Rome version of the worldwide Open House initiative, which began in London in 1992, is co-ordinated by non-profit cultural association Open City Roma and its 500 volunteers. Booking is required for many of the tours and children’s workshops. For full programme see Open House website, www.openhouseroma.org.
FESTIVALS OUT OF ROME BRESCIA AND BERGAMO 15 April-10 June The
Brescia
and
Bergamo
international piano festival, now in its 56th year, opens the festival season in Italy. This year the theme is the music of Schumann and Brahms, under the heading Musica Velata. Schumann used the term to describe Brahms piano playing, saying that he made the piano sound like an orchestra, with sounds that were sometimes exultant, sometimes full of happiness, sometimes clouded or tinged with sadness. The festival music follows the friendship of the two composers, sometimes with evenings dedicated to Brahms or Schumann, sometimes to both and at other times with music by other composers such as Beethoven. Concerts that start in one city are then repeated in the other a few days later. Another theme of the festival is to mix famous pianists with those who are just beginning to make a career for themselves. www.festivalpianistico.it.
RAVENNA
5 June-16 July 1-10 Nov
The Ravenna festival comes back this year with the theme In alto mare aperto, which could hardly be more appropriate considering the times. It’s the festival’s 30th anniversary and it opens on 5 June with Riccardo Muti conducting his Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cherubini with pianist Maurizio Pollini, performing music by Mendelssohn, Mozart and Rachmaninov. Muti and Pollini will be appearing together for the first time in 14 years. This year the final Roads of Friendship concert (9 July) conducted by Muti, which is usually in some conflict-torn part of the world, will be in Athens at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the Acropolis. The Alto Mare theme includes the Mediterranean trade and culture links between Greece and Rome, stretching back to ancient Greece and looking forwards to Europe today. The Young Artists for Dante come back again this year, leaving a tribute every day on the poet’s grave and there are vespers at S. Vital each evening. There is a large section dedicated to percussion concerts throughout June. The dance section includes Micha van Hoecke (8 June
Riccardo Muti and Maurizio Pollini will perform together for the first time in 14 years at the Ravenna festival.
with Shine) the Martha Graham Dance company (17 June) and John Neumeier and the Hamburg Ballet (5-6 July). The concerts star Leonidas Kavakos (12 June), the Tallis Singers (16 June), the Labeque sisters (19 June), Avro Pärt’s Kanon Pokajanen sung by the Estonia Philharmonic Chamber Choir (30 June) and the Orchestre National de France (3 July) conducted by Emmanuel Krivine with Antoine Tamestit, viola, playing music by Brahms, Liszt and Berlioz (Harold en Italie symphony) to mark the 150th anniversary of the composer’s death. The three operas in the autumn are Bellini’s Norma (1-8 Nov) Verdi’s Aida (2-9 Nov) and Bizet’s Carmen (3-10 Nov). This year’s autumn opera trilogy follows the same format as other years with three opera staged consecutively at the Alighieri Theatre, as well as workshops and the use of modern technology. All details and booking are already on the easy-to-use website www.ravennafestival.org.
opera
FLORENCE FESTIVAL DEL MAGGIO MUSICALE 5 May-26 July
The festival, which coincides with the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, is producing several operas this year. The first is Lear by Aribert Reimann (2,5,9 May) conducted by Fabio Luisi and directed by Calisto Bieito. This is followed by La Straniera by Bellini (14, 16 and 19 May). The new opera Le Leggi fondamentali della stupidità umana by Vittorio Montalti has been commissioned by the festival and will premiere on 25, 29, 31 May. Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro is scheduled on 15, 17, 19 and 21 June. Puccini’s Madama Butterfly will be performed on 5, 9, 11 and 13 July. L’Elisir d’Amore by Donizetti, who wrote the comic opera in six weeks, is on 10, 12, 17, 19, 23, 25 July. Verdi’s La Traviata, always a favourite, is on 18, 20, 22, 24 and 26
MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA
Prokofiev’s Angelo Del Fuoco returns to Rome for the first time since the 1960s, in a new production.
44 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
July. The theme of the festival this year is Potere e Virtù, the virtues of power, rather than its vices. There are numerous symphonic concerts conducted by a powerful line-up: Fabio Luisi (4 May), James Conlon (5 May), Myung-Whun Chung (23 May), Zubin Metha (26, 30 May and 2 June), Salvatore Sciarrino (27 May), Riccardo Muti (28 May) and Daniele Gatti (26 June). The dance programme opens with Virgilio Sieni’s company on 4 May, followed by Excelsior with Salvo Lombardo (7 May) and then the Martha Graham company on 11, 12, 13 May. Soloists to look out for are Grigory Sokolov (7 June) and Daniel Barenboim in the symphony conducted by Mehta on 2 June. All the dates, times and locations are on the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino website, www. maggiofiorentino.com.
SUMMER FESTIVALS
Some of the festivals to look out for in June, July and August are Verona Arena (21 June-5 Sept), Spoleto (28 June-14 July), Puccini Torre del Lago festival (6 July-16 Aug), Umbria Jazz (12-21 July), Macerata opera festival (19 July-11 Aug), Ravello (Aug), Rossini opera festival in Pesaro (1123 Aug).
ARIADNE AUF NAXOS BY RICHARD STRAUSS
23 April-22 June
Frederic Wake Walker is the young British director of this Strauss opera conducted by the Strauss expert Franz Wesler-Möst who will return later in the year (September) to conduct another Strauss opera Die ägyptische Helena at La Scala. The production was performed in Cleveland earlier this year, also with Tamara Wilson from the Met Opera who sang the role of Ariadne for the first time and who is relatively new to the Milan opera. She sings the part of Ariadne on 19 and 22 June, after performances in April and May by Kassimira Stoyanova, who also sang the role for the first time at
the end of last year in Dresden. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
IDOMENEO BY MOZART
16 May-6 June
This continues the series of Mozart operas at La Scala and like La Finta Gardiniera last October is conducted by Diego Fasolis in a new staging. Idomeneo is sung by Bernard Richter (who comes from singing the part in Vienna) and Electra by Federica Lombardi. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
DIE TOTE STADT BY KORNGOLD 28 May-17 June
This opera, composed by Erik Korngold in 1920, comes to La Scala for the first time and will be conducted by Alan Gilbert and directed by Graham Vick. Korngold, who was
described as a genius by Mahler, fled to the United States in 1934 to avoid the Nazi persecution of the Jews. He was very successful in Hollywood, where he composed 16 film scores, and became one of the founders of music for films. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
technician and one stage and one costume designer. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.
ROME
Rossini’s opera premiered at the Rome opera house in 1819 and has been popular ever since. This production, which is directed by Emma Dante, had considerable success in the 2016 season and now returns conducted by Stefano Montanari. Rene Barbera (who sang the part of Richard Percy in Anna Bolena at Rome’s opera house in March) alternates with Michele Angelini as Don Ramiro, Vito Priante and Filippo Fontana as Dandini, Carlo Lepore as Don Magnifico and Rafaela Albuquerque and Sara Rocchi from the Fabbrica Young Artists programme as Clorinda and Tisbe. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA L’ANGELO DI FUOCO PROKOFIEV 23 May-1 June
This opera is a new production and it is the first time it has been staged in Rome since the 1960s. It is directed by the ever-popular Emma Dante and conducted by Alejo Peres. The cast is made up of firsttimers in Rome and young singers from the theatre’s Fabbrica Young Artists training programme. This year the Fabbrica has eight trainee singers, one director, one lightening
theatre
LA CENERENTOLA BY ROSSINI 8-13 June
Marsha De Salvatore at Rome’s Comedy Club. Photo Violetta Canitano.
June at 17.30. For bookings contact playsinrome@yahoo.com or tel. 3478248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (Piazza Mazzini).
GIUDIZIO UNIVERSALE: MICHELANGELO AND THE SECRETS OF THE SISTINE CHAPEL ROME’S COMEDY CLUB
PLAY ON!
Rome’s Comedy Club holds an evening of stand-up comedy in English on the last Friday of every month at a venue in the Ostiense district. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, with the show starting at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@ gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.
The Rome Savoyards/Plays in Rome presents Rick Abbot’s play, produced in collaboration with Samuel French Inc, and directed by Sandra Provost. The play is the hilarious story of a theatre company trying desperately to put on a production in spite of maddening interference from a haughty author who keeps revising the script within days of the play’s premiere, leading to a madcap finale. Shows 4-7 June at 20.30 and 8-9
31 May
4-9 June
This cutting-edge production immerses the audience in the world of Michelangelo’s masterpiece in the Sistine Chapel, through a mixture of live performances and spectacular stage effects. The production involves the history of art narrated through a mix of technology and live entertainment. Created in consultation with the Vatican Museums and with music by Sting, the 60-minute show features immersive 270-degree 3D projections and is in both Italian and English. Auditorium della Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.giudiziouniversale.com. Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 45
Life Clings Closest Where Most Hated at the American Academy in Rome.
film Julius Caesar or Cajus Julius Caesar brought to Rome especially from the archives of the Netherlands Film Institute and accompanied by an original score composed for the occasion by the noted concert pianist and composer Michele Sganga. Caesar’s life is presented in three movements: first romantic melodrama (his secret love for the beautiful Servilia); then triumph (victory in Gaul); finally tragedy (his death). 17.30-20.00. 30 May Artist’s talk by Clunie Reid. Part of the BSR Fine Arts Talk Gender Series. 18.00-19.30. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.
FRENCH ACADEMY 1 March-12 May
ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 14 May
The American Academy in Rome presents Life Clings Closest Where Most Hated, a performance by Turinbased American artist Tom Johnson inspired by celebrated playwright Adrienne Kennedy’s reading of Mary Shelley’s 1818 novel Frankenstein. Johnson has created an installation and performance expressly for the exhibition The Academic Body, which opens on 22 May. Adrienne Kennedy, who was inducted into the Theater Hall of Fame in 2018,
46 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
has explored issues of race, kinship and violence in American society in her plays. Johnson, whose work encompasses drawing, sculpture, video, and live performance, is interested in analysing social taboos and has explored many of the themes central to Kennedy’s plays. American Academy in Rome, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.
BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 7 May
Live screening of the rarely seen yet remarkable Italian silent feature
The French Academy of Rome at Villa Medici presents Romamor, an exhibition dedicated to the work of French art duo Anne and Patrick Poirier, the husband and wife who have worked together for more than four decades. The exhibition will feature the sculptors’ “mysterious cities” and reconstructed ruins, both “archaeological or imaginary,” displayed in various areas of Villa Medici. The artists have a long association with Rome: they were fellows of the French Academy from 1969 to 1971, during the directorship of Balthus. French Academy in Rome - Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611, www.villamedici.it.
JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 2-31 MAY
Guided tours of the Japanese Cultural Institute’s gardens are open to small groups of people during the mornings and afternoons on Tues, Thurs, Fri, and on Sat mornings. The visits are free and bookings must be reserved in advance, tel. 0694844655. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, www.jfroma.it.
Piazza di Siena from 20-26 May.
SPORT ITALIAN OPEN TENNIS 6-19 May
The 76th edition of the Italian Open tennis tournament, known officially as the Internazionali BNL d’Italia, features some of the world’s greatest tennis stars and takes place at Rome’s Foro Italico from 6-19 May. The annual Rome event is played on a clay surface across 14 courts: eight for singles and doubles matches, and the other six for practice sessions. Top names to look out for in the 2019 edition include Rafael Nadal, who will be seeking a ninth Rome title, and Novak Djokovic who has has lifted the trophy at the Foro Italico four times. Much attention will focus on the return of 23-time Grand Slam champion Serena Williams as well as Italian champion Sara Errani. See feature article page 14. For tickets and programme see website, www.internazionalibnlditalia.com. Viale del Foro Italico.
KOMEN RACE FOR THE CURE 19 May
The 20th edition of the Komen Italia Race for the Cure takes place on the streets of central Rome on 19 May to raise funds and awareness for breast cancer. The annual event
is divided into three categories: a non-competitive 5-km run; a 2-km walk; and a competitive 5-km race. The sporting event is preceded by a three-day festival of health and fitness workshops, family activities and free medical advice at the Race Village in the Circus Maximus beginning on 16 May. The money raised goes towards funding educational and early detection programmes to help fight breast cancer. The event is open to men, women and children, and there is a special “Women in Pink” category, for women who have faced or are facing breast cancer. The race begins at 10.00 at the Circus Maximus, passing through Piazza Venezia and past the Colosseum before finishing back at the starting point. Full information, including how to donate and register, can be found on the Race for the Cure Italia website, www.raceroma.komen.it.
PIAZZA DI SIENA 20-26 May
The 87th edition of the annual Piazza di Siena horse show jumping competition takes place in the heart of Rome’s Villa Borghese and is now a week-long event instead of its usual four days. Held in collaboration
with the Italian National Olympic committee (CONI) and the Italian Equestrian Federation (FISE), the prestigious horse show features the cream of international showjumpers. Highlights include a competition for up-and-coming Italian show jumpers and the mounted Carabinieri display, which has closed the show for more than six decades. Part of the FEI Nations Cup, the Roman tournament is among the eight most important showjumping events in the world. Piazza di Siena is once again dedicated to the memory of the D’Inzeo brothers, Piero and Raimondo, two celebrated Roman show jumping riders who garnered numerous accolades for Italy over the years at the Olympics and in international competitions. The brothers were the first athletes to compete in eight successive Olympic Games, their greatest moment being the 1960 Rome Olympics when Raimondo won the gold and Piero the silver medal for show jumping. Both officers in the Carabinieri, the brothers always competed in police uniform and died within months of each other in late 2013 / early 2014. For details tel. 0636858420 or visit the website, www.piazzadisiena.it. Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 47
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 •• Wanted 5048 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome | |May 2019 Wanted in Rome Rome
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,
t
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50| |May Jan 2019 50 2019 •• Wanted Wanted in in Rome Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome
38
Wanted in Rome | December 2017
WANTED junior inROME Street artist Maupal comes to Rome International School The International Baccalaureate Primary Years Programme (IB PYP) is a transdisciplinary programme for children from 3 to 11 years of age. It is recognised worldwide as one of the most advanced international programmes for elementary schools. The PYP encourages children to take responsibility for their own learning and build their skills to become lifelong learners. Students in the final year of the PYP, Year 6 at Rome International School, carry out an extended, in-depth collaborative project known as the PYP Exhibition. This involves students working collaboratively to conduct an in-depth inquiry into a real-life issue or a topic of personal significance. Teachers initiate, facilitate and guide the exhibition process while all students taken an active role in all aspects of inquiring, investigating, communicating and assessing their learning. The Exhibition represents a unique and significant opportunity for students to exhibit the attributes of the IB Learner Profile developed throughout their engagement
with the PYP. It also provides the wider learning community with an opportunity to celebrate the transition of learners to the next phase of their education. [The Learner pg. 41 IBO, October 2018]. To assist some Year 6 students with their Exhibition topics, Ms Buccedi, the Early Years and Elementary Librarian, invited Maupal, a famous street artist to speak to both the classes about his work and inspiration. It was an interactive and engaging session where all students asked plenty of questions and shared their reflections. “I was very happy with Maupal’s visit because l believe that learning from an expert is one of the most interesting and valuable experiences that students can have. Maupal is a great communicator and he was able to share his skills and knowledge and answer their questions in a clear and engaging way.” - Ms Buccedi, Early Years and Elementary School Librarian, Rome International School.
Maupal with students of Rome International School.
On the whiteboard he showed us his technique for drawing a face, which everybody then tried to follow. Giada and Irene our classmates agreed that, “the most unexpected part was when he turned four scribbles on the board, as if by magic, into a beautiful face.” His next illustration [see below] was a mouse chasing a cat, which he explained represented a revolution, because usually it is the cat that chases the mouse. We are so happy that he came because we learned so much! We are now creating our own piece of street art and we are thinking about the message that we want to share. Rome street artist Maupal
Lola and Margherita, two ten-year-old students in Year 6K, report on the visit. On Friday 29 March 2019, Maupal a contemporary Roman street artist came to our class because our Exhibition topic is on street art and graffiti. We considered many topics before choosing street art because this is the topic that interested us the most and which we wanted to learn more about. Ms Buccedi called him in as they have been friends before Maupal rose to fame following the Pope Francis murals, which started his career as a street artist.
We look forward to presenting our knowledge and work at the Exhibition that will be held in mid-April. Rome International School, Via Guglielmo Pecori Giraldi 137, tel. 0684482701, www. RomeInternationalSchool.it.
Maupal’s real name is Mauro Pallotta. When he came we were all excited to meet a real street artist! Maupal explained that street art always sends a message and we agree. This is one of the main differences between street art and graffiti. He told us about a lot of techniques and tools that street artists use: brushes, stencils, spray paint and normal paint; Maupal usually uses brushes. When he creates murals without permission, he first prepares the art at home so that it can be ‘pasted’ on the walls quickly before the police take it off. Street artists make illegal street art because they prefer sending a good message but going against the law, instead of sending a good message where not many people can see it. He chose street art because some people do not have the opportunity to go to museums.
WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the students. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.
Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 53
Rome’s street artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant important street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
54 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 55
RO MA
agorski
By Kate Z
FETTINE PANATE CON CIPOLLA ROSSA E SALVIA Usually served hot, fettine panate are thin slices of beef which are dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and fried until golden. This recipe gives them a summery twist and turns them into almost a kind of salad by cutting them into strips and mixing them with red onion, fresh sage leaves and a zing of vinegar, all gently cooked together to encourage the flavours to blend. Easy to make in advance and store in the fridge, they benefit hugely from a rest before eating so this recipe is a brilliant addition to buffets or picnics. When buying the beef look for thin slices, the best are called 'girello' in Italian. If they are a little thick you can tenderise them by hitting them with a meat hammer, rolling pin or even the bottom of a tumbler or glass. The process of coating the slices can be messy but taking the time to make sure they have a good covering of breadcrumbs will help to give the finished dish a bit of bite. For another variation, the fried fettine panate can also be left whole, topped with a little tomato passata and a slice of mozzarella (or mozzarella and mushrooms) and baked in the oven at 180°C for a few minutes until the mozzarella has melted before serving them hot as a second course.
Ingredients Serves 4 4 thin slices of beef (approx 500g) 25 fresh sage leaves Flour Extra virgin olive oil 4 eggs, beaten Half a glass of white wine vinegar Fine breadcrumbs Salt 1 lt vegetable oil, for frying Pepper 3 red onions, roughly sliced Prepare the ingredients for the coating; put a generous amount of flour in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper and mix well. Crack the eggs into a separate bowl and beat well with a fork or hand whisk. Pour breadcrumbs into a wide dish, tray or board. Take the first slice of beef and coat it well in flour then dip it on both sides first in the egg and then in the breadcrumbs. Push the meat into the breadcrumbs with your fingers to ensure it is well-covered. Set aside and repeat the process with the remaining slices. Heat the vegetable oil in a wide saucepan or large frying pan until it is boiling. Test by sticking a wooden toothpick into the oil, if small bubbles form around the toothpick the oil is ready. Carefully place the beef slices into the oil (you may have to do this one or two pieces at a time depending on the size of your pan) and fry for about 2 minutes, turning over once, until they are golden and crunchy. Set the slices aside on a tray covered with kitchen paper to drain, sprinkle with salt and leave to cool. Once the slices have cooled down, use scissors to cut them into strips about 2cm x 5cm. In a large frying pan heat a good splash of olive oil and add the chopped red onion. Cook for a couple of minutes until it is just starting to soften then add the sage leaves, tearing any large ones in half. Cook for a minute and then add the beef strips and heat through. Add the vinegar and cook everything together for another minute to combine the flavours. Tip into a bowl and leave to cool down, then cover and place in the refrigerator until serving.
58 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
The best cheap seafood in rome It’s difficult to dine out on a delicious fish supper without breaking the bank, which is why we have put together this list of five small osterie and trattorie that serve high quality and fairly priced fish dishes. S. LORENZO DA FRANCO AR VICOLETTO At Franco al Vicoletto in S. Lorenzo you can enjoy simple fresh fish dishes. There’s a set menu costing between €25 to €30 or you can order from the à la carte menu. The ‘Tiberio’ menu starting at €25 includes a mixed seafood salad, sautéed mussels and clams, fried vegetables and anchovies with octopus, a mixed fish grill, lemon sorbet and a quarter of a litre of house wine. TRASTEVERE PEPPO AL COSIMATO Peppo al Cosimato serves traditional peasant fish recipes. The eatery opened on Via Natale del Grande in 2017 under the former owners of Caffè Perù. Among the dishes on offer, you can enjoy bruschette with marinated anchovies and mackerel (€3), lasagne with cuttlefish (€10), and the catch of the day (€14). It’s a large restaurant with an outdoor terrace.
PIGNETO LA SANTERIA DI MARE This locally named ‘pizzicheria di pesce' (fish delicatessen) in Pigneto has a laid back, retro feel. We highly recommend the fish pagnotelle (small round loaves) for €10 and the greater amberjack fish alla cacciatore for €12. TORMARANCIA LA VONGOLA VORACE This small trattoria serving fish in Tormarancia offers, among many dishes, a fish trio (panzanella salad with shell fish, cured salmon and marinated anchovies) and pici (pasta) with clams for €10. APPIO AND BARBERINI LA PESCERIA RE DI ROMA E BARBERINI This fantastic fishmonger has both a small restaurant and a street food stall. You choose your preferred fish at the bar and then sit down to eat. The spaghetti alle vongole for €12.50, fried calamari for €10.50 and fish balls for €9.50 come highly recommended.
www.puntarellarossa.it
Indirizzi
Da Franco Ar Vicoletto, Via Dei Falisci 2, tel. 064957675. La Santeria di Mare, Via Del Pigneto 209, tel. 0689230730. Peppo al Cosimato, Via Natale del Grande 9, tel. 065812048. La Vongola Vorace, Largo Luigi Antonelli 15, tel. 0631055314. La Pesceria Re di Roma, Via Appia 234, tel. 3938834361. La Pesceria Barberini, Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino 23, tel. 0642903789.
Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 59
I B WO R L D S C H O O L
Inspiring Global Citizens. romeinternationalschool.it +39 06 844 82 651
BOOK A CAMPUS VISIT In partnership with
FOUNDED IN 1976
SATURDAY OPEN DAY 18th May 2019 08.30 to 12.30
Preparing students for the world of tomorrow. southlands.it +39 06 5053932 In partnership with
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
62 | May 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 63
In an ever growing global community, health care is not limited to a person's home country: people from every culture can find what they need to feel themselves at home in Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome
Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT
Single Cycle Master Degree Program
EN
Medicine and Surgery
The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills. In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach. Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts. The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).
orientamento@unicampus.it - www.unicampus.it
Tel: 06.22541.9056/8121/8715 - Via Álvaro del Portillo 21 - 00128 Roma