Wanted in rome 2013 12 04 by Wanted in Rome

4 December 2013 â&#x201A;Ź 1,00

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Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 5, Numero 12

contents

no. 12 / wednesday / 4 December 2013 editorials

STREET ART: OFF THE WALL? Sarah Barchus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 EXPLORING ROME UNDERGROUND Theresa Potenza . . . . . . . . . . 5 CLEOPATRA AND THE LURE OF EGYPT Martin Bennett . . . . . . . . 9

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 music. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 BOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 ACADEMIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Christmas Markets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine. Direttore responsabile: Franco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Beta Tipografica, Via Casilina Vecchia 119a/b Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 02/12/2013

Brus Photo Daniela Pellegrini (Outdoor 2012) Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com Next publication dates are 8 Jan, 5 Feb. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 23 Dec (for 8 Jan) and 29 Jan (for 5 Feb).

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. The Almost Corner Bookshop, Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942. Early copies: (after 14.00 on the day before official publication): Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. You can find us on

23 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

art

Sarah Barchus

STREET ART: OFF THE WALL?

Street art in Rome reaches new creative heights

rom ancient Pompeii to the façades of buildings today, graffiti has been making walls, and people, talk for centuries. The word “graffiti” is derived from the Italian verb “to scratch”. For some, street art is like a rash that only spreads when one tries to rub it away; for others, walls are a creative platform for expressing political opinion and delivering social and cultural messages. Whichever side one takes, clean-up initiatives paired with designated legal walls and commissioned projects allow those in both camps to scratch their itches. Former mayor of Rome Gianni Alemanno was elected in 2008 after pledging to make graffiti see the writing on the wall. He created a city ordinance mandating that offenders remove their own work from walls and he also raised the minimum fine for graffiti from €25 to €300. Organisations such as Urban Décor Squad and even foreign diplomats joined the effort, picking up the pail to paint over the illegal art. Since then, other organisations have taken a more creative approach to controlling graffiti. Retake Roma, a grassroots non-profit association, aims to eliminate vandalism while encouraging legal public artwork by organising wall clean-ups in parallel with mural painting.

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

Top. Street art by Borondo on Via Ostiense 206. Above. Mural by Spanish street artist Sam3 on Via Ostiense 193. Photos by Daniela Pellegrini.

A similar foundation, Insieme per Roma, commissioned Alessandro Sabong to transform a vandalised outdoor staircase in Rome’s EUR district into a cascading waterfall; now commuters experience a small miracle each day as they walk on water on their way to the nearby Laurentina metro station. Going a step farther, Nufactory seeks out talented artists, helps them find sanctioned spaces to stretch their skills, and promotes them through events like the annual Outdoor Urban Art Festival. Outdoor has showcased street art since 2010, legitimising it as an art form

and engaging the public in wall talks, dialogue about the issues that such art portrays. Antonella Di Lullo, the festival’s curator, summarised the event as “moments of encounter and exchange in which we reflect on the world of street art and its inescapable connection with the district.” This year’s instalment, held from 6-14 September in the Ostiense area, highlighted popular urban artists such as Rero, Luca Di Maggio and Sten & Lex, and photographers Niccolò Berretta and Martha Cooper under the theme of “What a wonderful city”. “For this edition we chose to look at the change that is currently transforming Rome into a new European hub of creativity,” Di Lullo said. “[It is] a radical transformation that, in contrast to all prejudice and disapproval, leads us to exclaim wondrously, ‘What a wonderful city!’” What does it mean to be a wonderful city? A photo of a street sign from Outdoor’s Facebook page says it all; its three arrows point in different directions, one each toward “right,” “wrong,” and “colors”. The debate, whether street art is right or wrong for Rome, falls by the wayside in light of the colour the art adds to the city. The contrasting hues of Rome’s colourful culture could be seen through the festival’s multiple art forms including murals,

art photography, cinema, architecture and music. Outdoor plans to continue opening people’s eyes to new art and leaving its mark on the city next year with Outdoor 5. In July 2012, Rome began seeing street art in more than just black and white terms. It opened itself to the colourful culture by reaching an agreement with WALLS, a graffiti artist group. Select artists were granted exclusive permission to create art on walls marked with plaques bearing the inscription “hall of fame”, while all artists are welcome to walls marked “muri liberi”. A complete list and location of walls can be found on Urban Act’s website www.urbanact.it. Urban art is also popping up in traditional institutes. Trastevere’s Museo di Roma showcased Diamond, an internationally known street artist, last summer. Casa del Architettura -1 art gallery recently displayed work by Alice Pasquini, a high profile visual artist from Rome, and launches an exhibition by Mr Klevra and Omino71 on 7 January. Mayor Ignazio Marino and the Capitoline Museums have commissioned Pasquini as well as Luca Masters and Bol23 to create pieces to decorate government office spaces to send the message that the city’s leaders are connected to their constituents. The Galleria Varsi (www.galleriavarsi. it) located at Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, not only displays urban art but it also sells street artists’ work through its website. This demonstrates the internet’s role in extending urban art’s impact beyond the physical limitations of walls. Mondo Pop, an international art gallery and shop located near the Spanish Steps, makes art accessible with its affordable prices and events. But true to street art style, nothing compares to roaming the city’s roads and happening upon the art; in this case hitting a wall can be an inspirational breakthrough. To find the walls, wander the neighbourhoods of Ostiense,

Test your luck and cross the path of Lucamaleonte and Hitnes’ black cat titled “Catalog,” at Via delle Conce’s underpass. Bask in the limelight of JB Rock’s 60-m long “Wall of Fame” at Via dei Magazzini Generali. Pose with Sten & Lex’s “Black and White Power” portrait gallery along Via dei Magazzini Generali. Have a staring contest with Augustine’s dizzy-eyed character on Via Libetta. And if that’s not enough, Blu’s “Cars Chained sull’Alexis” will drive you up the wall at Via Ostiense 124.

S. Lorenzo, Pigneto and Trastevere, especially around the metro stations and underpasses. In the nooks and crannies one can find true technique amid sloppy sprayings. In Ostiense, consider it good luck if you get to see the black cat titled “Catalogue” painted on an underpass. You might even be able to say you saw the wall scrawled with “Quotes Calligraphic”. If you really want street art that makes a splash, sidle up to the “Swimmer”, a cheery man in a red swim cap and uni-bathing suit swimming up Via del Porto Fluviale. Some other ideas: slither down Via Prenestina to see Hopnn’s “Medusa”;

Websites Nufactory, www.nufactory.it Fondazione Insieme per Roma, www.fondazioneinsiemeperroma.org Galleria Varsi, www.galleriavarsi.it Retake Roma, www.retakeroma.com UrbanAct, www.urbanact.it WALLS, onthewalls.it

build up your street art repertoire at the social centre Forte Prenestino in Centocelle; enter the Metropoliz’s space in Tor Sapienza and see the Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz_città meticcia (MAAM); pause to see the still pictures now portrayed at the former cinemas Preneste in Pigneto and Volturno in Termini; take a friend to S. Lorenzo to see La Communia where Hogre, Mr Klevra and Omino71, the show off their skills; and to really drink it in, grab a beer at the pub Strike off Via Portonaccio and hit up one of Strike’s social events. Who knows? You might just strike gold.

Nuotatore by Agostino Iacurci on Via del Porto Fluviale in Ostiense. 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

HERITAGE

Theresa Potenza

EXPLORING ROME UNDERGROUND

One way to understand the modern city is to discover what lies below its surface

here is a myriad of underground sites in central and suburban Rome that reveal the true physical and historical depth that defines the city. Within the past year, two new sites have opened new perspectives on the architectonic layering of the city. The imposing ruins of the Baths of Caracalla, long a testimony to Roman engineering, social life, water efficiency and hygiene have a new underground feature which was open for guided visits until 30 September 2013. Completed in late 2012, it consists of two kilometres of service chambers and galleries that made up the hydraulic plant and intricate heating system. The space was used for wood deposits, a water mill, ovens and stoves, furnaces and cauldrons. The underground portion of the baths not only offers a glimpse of behind-the-scenes life and labour of the spa complex, but also provides evidence of its splendour. The tunnel space, designed to be large enough to accommodate wagons, has been transformed into an antiquarium, displaying pieces of ornate decoration

Remains of ancient Roman houses at Palazzo Valentini near Piazza Venezia. 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

The Cloaca Maxima is one of the world’s oldest sewerage systems.

from nearly 2,000 years ago. Cornice fragments, figured capitals and historic reliefs from the bath’s gymnasium, library and frigidarium (cold bath) hall are placed in the bare brick setting of the ancient hydraulic system and storage centre. Also visible under the bath complex, albeit on rare occasions, is a well-preserved mithraeum, or temple dedicated to the practice of Mithraism, a popular ancient Roman cult originating in Persia. The entire bath complex was built by Emperor Caracalla between 212 and 216 AD and it is thought that more than 9,000 labourers worked on the site during its construction. The underground network reveals how much labour went in to keeping the baths running and serving more than 6,000 bathers at once. Another site uncovering the mysteries of Roman religion and daily life are new excavations at the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin, opened to the public at the end of 2012. Visitors can now descend below the main altar of the church to find several layers of physical and religious history. The church was built in the eighth century with a crypt made by digging out the podium of a second century BC temple to Ceres. The small chamber

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

below the main altar contains blocks of tufo from the ancient altar of Hercules, known as the Ara Maxima, and eight niches that stored relics of Christian martyrs from the mediaeval crypt. A representative from the church, Valentin Tomescu, who has promoted underground tourism for over a decade, plans to put the funds donated by visitors to opening more areas under the church. He believes this site is especially important because of its location in the ancient city’s commercial centre along the river banks near the main cattle market or forum boarium. It is also thought to be near where the shepherd Faustulus found the twin founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus. The church is however most famous for the Bocca della Verità in the portico. The sculpture is believed to have been a drain cover representing the face of the god Oceanus. According to a popular legend, made famous by the 1953 romantic comedy Roman Holiday, anyone putting a hand into its mouth would have it bitten off if they were not telling the truth. Other churches with multiple layers underground include the Basilica of S. Clemente and the church of S. Nicolo in Carcere. Like the Baths of Caracalla, S. Clemente offers a glimpse of Mithraism with one of the best preserved

mithraea discovered in the Roman empire. The site also descends to an early Christian church just below the mediaeval church at street level, and then further down to ruins of an ancient Roman building believed to be a domestic dwelling. Similar to S. Maria in Cosmedin, the church of S. Nicolo in Carcere is located in the commercial centre of ancient Rome on top of the ancient forum holitorium or vegetable market. The church was built in the 11th century with parts of three different ancient temples occupying its façade. Temple remnants, foundations for shops and offices, and a small pile of bones can be found underneath. Guided tours are organised by Associazione Culturale Amici di Roma on 21 December and 4 January. There are two associations in Rome that offer a variety tours of underground sites. Sotteranei di Roma and Roma Sotteranea collaborate with the capital’s archaeological authorities to provide a comprehensive list of guided tours and introductory courses to discover the complex underground systems of engineering, religion, life and burial that define 3,000 years of Roman history and architecture. Associazione Culturale Amici di Roma also organises guided tours. www.amicidiroma.it.

HERITAGE side notes Some of these sites are underground because the level of today’s city is higher than the ancient one. Others, such as the mithraea for the secret pre-Christian worship of Mithras and the tunnels for the aqueducts, were built underground. Most of these sites are not open to the public on a regular basis, either because they are too dangerous or because it is impossible to provide staff for visits. See www.sotterraneidiroma.it, www.romasotterranea. it and www.amicidiroma.it for possible visits or www.comune.roma.it or www. beniculturali.it for more information. ▶ Aqueducts. Many of the tunnels that carried water to ancient Rome are still being excavated and are only open for special guided visits. On 15 December there is a tour organised by the Associazione Culturale Amici di Roma of the Castellum Aquae under the old cinema Trevi and parts of the Acquedotto Vergine. www.amicidiroma.it. ▶ Auditorium (or nymphaeum) of Mecenate. In Largo Leopardi in the Esquilino, it is only open for special visits and sometimes hosts cultural events organised by the Comune di Roma. ▶ Cloaca Maxima. Rome’s main drainage system, originally built by the Etruscans as an open-air system and then covered over by the Romans. The exit can still be seen near Ponte Rotto and Ponte Palatino.

The underground network of passages beneath the Baths of Caracalla.

ed visit organised by Amici di Roma, www.amicidiroma.it. ▶ Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina. The underground site in Piazza in Lucina was originally thought to have been just a Roman house for early Christian worship but recent research indicates that it might have been a pre-Christian temple to Giunone Lucina, the goddess of pregnant women. ▶ Domus Aurea. A large villa built by Nero after the fire of Rome in about 64 AD. It is closed for restoration. To follow the extent and progress of the restoration see archeoroma.beniculturali.it/cantieredomusaurea/

▶ Mithraeum in Circo Massimo. Guided visits only. This five-room mithraeum, at the Bocca della Verità end of Circo Massimo, was first discovered in 1931. ▶ Mithraeum in S. Prisca on the Aventine, Via di S. Prisca 11. The church of S. Prisca was built over a temple to Mithras. It could be open on the second and fourth Sundays of the month in the afternoons but it is best to check with the church. ▶ Palazzo Valentini in Piazza Venezia. The remains of Roman houses found below Palazzo Valentini just off Piazza Venezia. 09.30-17.30, closed Tues and public holidays, www.palazzovalentini.it.

▶ Christian catacombs. Most of these are along Via Appia and some have recently been restored such as S. Priscilla on Via Salaria. They are open to the public and are easy to visit. ▶ Church of S. Crisogono. Underground site includes an early Christian church and a third-century Roman house. On 22 December there is a guid-

▶ Jewish catacombs in Villa Torlonia. There are several Jewish catacombs in and around Rome but the ones in Villa Torlonia are the largest and most famous.

Mithraeum at the Circus Maximus.

▶ Vatican necropolis dating to Imperial times. Only private visits on request to scavi@fsp.va, www.vatican.va or directly to the excavations office to the left of the Bernini colonnade in St Peter’s Square. 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

CULTURE

Martin Bennett

CLEOPATRA AND THE LURE OF EGYPT

Rome dedicates an exhibition to Cleopatra while honouring her nemesis Augustus with a show across town

“A

ge cannot wither nor custom stale her infinite variety,” wrote Shakespeare of his tragic heroine. Some 500 or 2,000 years on, an exhibition at the Chiostro del Bramante in Rome attests to just that. “Variety” comes in the form of exhibits from as far afield as Turin and Nubia, Cagliari and Aswan, Vienna and Paris, the British Museum and the Vatican. Plutarch may have questioned Cleopatra’s beauty; the coins in the penultimate room show a rather over-prominent nose while a statue next-door has no nose at all, though le labbra pronunciate are still intact. Yet, continues Plutarch, Egypt’s last queen more than made up for this with a voice “like a many-stringed instrument”, and the ability to speak any number of languages. Unlike lesser mortals, Cleopatra also had undoubted strategic appeal. “The fire that quickens Nilus’ slime” produced a grain harvest crucial to feeding Rome’s turbulent populace. Egypt’s alabaster (honey-coloured in the gi-

ant urns displayed here), its granite and its variegated marble helped adorn the self-glorifying temples and homes of first Julius Caesar, then Octavian, who became the Emperor Augustus. In Antony’s case Cleopatra’s alliance was also seen, at least initially, as necessary in his attempt to conquer Parthia. Finally, of course, at Actium he miscalculated. A whole room is dedicated to the fateful battle, including an actual figurehead from one of the ships. There is also an exquisite cameo – Egyptianstyle – of Augustus drawn by Tritons, goat-supported globe symbolising the rebirth of the sun raised in one arm, presumably a sceptre of victory in the other arm now missing. Cleopatra’s strategic appeal came with a talent for “striking a pose” which would reduce Madonna and Lady Gaga to raw beginners. As shown on one of the exhibition’s four videos, Cleopatra won over Julius Caesar by having herself wrapped and delivered to the Roman strongman in a carpet. “Daring and provocative”, to quote the com-

Rare marble bust of Cleopatra dating to the second half of the first century BC, collection of Vatican Museums. 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

First-century basrelief of Augustus dressed as pharaoh, collection of Musée Champollion, Figéac, France.

mentary, key qualities that won Caesar over immediately. Later, to secure the support (and the love) of Antony, she adopted the role of sea-borne Aphrodite to equally devastating effect. Sex, in other words, as diplomacy by another means. A tumble or two on the bed of Ptolemy and “the triple pillar of the world” is “transformed into a strumpet’s fool”. Most dramatic and studied pose of all was her death, studied and prepared for as by a star actress. Mere selfpoisoning had been done before. The asp, however, as the exhibition points out, was also an Egyptian immortality symbol, as protective as it is deadly. It also inspired some golden armlets whose beauty takes the breath away. Indeed, death features in one of the exhibition’s most fascinating rooms. From Turin comes a priceless papyrus page from the Egyptian Book of the Dead, this originally put in the tomb or even coffin of the deceased to be consulted in the Great Beyond. There is Horus weighing the heart as Maat, goddess of justice, presides and Thoth, the writing god, takes notes. Meanwhile horrid-headed Amit the devourer skulks below in case the heart be adjudged defective and thrown to him as a scrap. Other equipment worn or carried includes turquoise death masks, effigies of cats and ibis – the exhibition has several – a sort of guide between worlds, and even in one case a mummified phallus.

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

With Roman occupation, rituals changed. The room’s last exhibit is an exquisitely painted funeral mask, the deceased’s hairstyle modelled after Hadrian’s. Cleopatra’s flair for spectacle must have been in evidence during her 46-44 BC visit to Rome and Julius Caesar’s villa in Trastevere. (It is from Via Labicana that the opening exhibit of Isis comes, albeit with vulture’s head missing.) Travelling with Cleopatra – still in her “salad days” – was Caesarion – “little Caesar” – her son and divi filius number I until divi filius number II and Caesar’s official heir Octavian got rid of him years later. The empire was, to rephrase Shakespeare, too small for two such semi-divine personages. With Calpurnia, Caesar’s Roman wife, being childless, Cleopatra’s hope was that eventually the two orders, Roman and Egyptian, would merge under one ruler. Indeed, this fear that Caesar was manoeuvring to adopt Cleopatra as a second wife is cited as one reason for his assassination. “Reginam odio,” thundered Cicero, and many republicans followed suit. Yet this did not prevent a spate of Egypto-mania which the exhibition brilliantly celebrates. Strict republicans may have despised the east but this did not stop rich families adopting an ostentatiousness along eastern

lines as witnessed here by some stunning glassware unearthed near Todi, a hilltop town in Umbria. Fashion winning out over feeling, even Octavia, Octavian’s sister and ill-used wife of Antony, is depicted with an Egyptian hairstyle. Hippopotami and crocodiles appeared not only in mosaics – whether in Pompeii or Rome – but also in the arena, the latter complete with African acrobats trained to ride and tame them as if they were horses. (One features an acrobat performing a jaw-dropping handstand.) Next exhibit is a granite crocodile from the Crocodilopis, a place sacred to river god Sobek-Suchos. Roman worship also took a new turn. Adding to a previous temple to Isis at the port of Putueoli – Isis was believed to have invented the sail and to protect sailors – a more land-bound temple to the god was opened in Rome’s Campus Martius, official ban notwithstanding. Several figures of Serapis, a sort of Egyptian Jove, have also emerged from Rome’s underground. A sphinx in the exhibition comes not from Cairo but from Cagliari. Finally, in pink alabaster, there is Nero in the likeness of a pharaoh.

First-century statue of Emperor Tiberius as pharaoh, collection of Musée du Louvre, Paris.

Cast of characters

Snake-shaped golden armlet discovered at Pompeii, collection of Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples.

As chance (or destiny) would have it, this exhibition coincides with an exhibition across town honouring Cleopatra’s nemesis, Octavian/ Augustus. Pliny narrates how, on the eve of the battle of Actium, Octavian sent Cleopatra a messenger declaring that he, Octavian, had been in love with her all along; if she’d only consign Antony dead or alive, all would be forgiven. (Antony, getting wind of the stratagem, had the messenger summarily executed.) Who knows whether the stratagem was not partly true? Only that Cleopatra happened also to be mother to filius divi, Caesarion. The will to power (or order, as Octavian preferred to call it) prevailed: Octavian, Caesar’s official heir, had his now 17 year-old rival killed along with three of Cleopatra’s children by Antony. (A daughter survived to be

married off to an obscure African king.) This cleared Octavian’s way, rather less than gloriously, to the title of Augustus, in the last room depicted, rather ironically, as wearing Pharaoh’s dress complete with ‘nemes’ and pouring wine to the temple gods. Before the battle of Philippi, Julius Caesar famously “ghosted” Brutus. A modern fantasy, but, sneaking between museums, might Cleopatra now similarly “ghost” the shade of Augustus, reminding him of what might have been? Or vice-versa? Penance, revenge, love by whatever name: The ties of history are rarely so enticingly spectacular or long-lasting.

See details of Cleopatra and Augustus exhibitions in our What’s On section.

▶ Cleopatra. 69-30 BC. Last pharaoh of Ancient Egypt. Lover of Julius Caesar during his stay in Egypt from 4847 BC Claimed Caesar was the father of her son Caesarion. After the assassination of Julius Caesar in 44 BC, she threw in her lot with Mark Antony in the struggle for control of the Roman republic and became his lover. She committed suicide in 30 BC along with Mark Antony after he lost the battle of Actium in 31 BC to Octavian/Augustus, the grandnephew and legal heir of Julius Caesar. ▶ Julius Caesar. 100-44 BC. He became a consul of Rome in 60 BC and for the next 16 years consolidated his power, defeating all his political and military rivals in battle. At the same time he reformed the administration of Rome’s ever-growing provinces and territories and centralised the government in Rome. He gradually became the most powerful man in the republic until his assassination in 44 BC by rival senators led by Marcus Junius Brutus. ▶ Caesarion. 47-30 BC. Son of Cleopatra and Julius Caesar. He was assassinated by Octavian/Augustus, Julius Caesar’s legal heir, as a potential threat to Augustus’s power over the empire after the battle of Actium. ▶ Mark Antony. He became Cleopatra’s lover after the assassination of Julius Caesar. Gradually lost power to Octavian and was finally defeated at the battle of Actium. He then fled to Egypt where he committed suicide along with Cleopatra. ▶ Octavian/Augustus. 63 BC-14 AD. Grandnephew of Julius Caesar and first emperor of Rome, ruling from 27 BC to his death in 14 AD. During his 41-year reign the empire was finally at peace and remained so for nearly 200 years. 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

vatican museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican. va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free

entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums, tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behindthe-scene tours in the Vatican Museums.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30-19.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30-19.30. Mon closed. MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Museo delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari Piazza G. Marconi 10, EUR, tel. 060608, www.popolari.arti.beniculturali.it. Traditional Italian tools, crafts, clothing, furniture, musical instruments, jewellery. Tues-Fri 09.00-18.00, Sat-Sun 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on prior booking. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/ en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. Tues-Sun 08.30-19.30. Mon closed. Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00). Museo Nazionale del Palazzo Venezia Via del Plebiscito 118, tel. 0669994285,

www.museopalazzovenezia.beniculturali.it. Residence of Pope Paul II in the 15th century, it was the embassy of the Republic of Venice and then of the Austrian Empire. Paintings, sculpture, bronzes by Pisanello and Bernini. 08.30-19.30, Mon closed.

state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma. beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Colosseum, Palatine and Roman Forum Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian. Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Museo Preistorico ed Etnografico L. Pigorini Piazza G. Marconi 14, EUR, tel. 06549521, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it. Prehistoric Italian artefacts and ethnological material from various cultures. 10.00-18.00. Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali. it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini.beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30-19.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Vittoriano Piazza Aracoeli, tel. 066991718, www.museiincomuneroma.it. Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II and Italian unity. Also Museo Centrale del Risorgimento. 10.00-16.00. Mon closed. Entry free.

city museums Centrale Montemartini Art Centre Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00-18.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Reggio Emilia 54, tel. 060608, www.macro.roma.museum. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. Via Reggio Emilia 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Future, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4,

tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions only 16.00-24.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo dell’Ara Pacis Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it. Home of the Roman altar to peace commissioned by Emperor Caesar Augustus in the 1st century AD. The museum was designed by American architect Richard Meier. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico. it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127. Palazzo delle Esposizioni Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni. it. Large space which hosts several travelling exhibitions each year. Tues, Wed, Thurs 10.0020.00. Fri and Sat 10.00-22.30. Sun 10.00-20.00. Mon closed. Scuderie del Quirinale Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. The museum opposite the residence of Italy’s president stages major exhibitions. Sun-Thurs 10.00-20.00, Fri-Sat 10.00-22.30.

a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 10.00-17.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.0013.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access con-

tact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. Keats-Shelley Memorial House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Fri 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00; Sat 11.00-14.00, 15.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.00-18.00. Mon closed. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez,

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

where to go in rome

female figure and still life, to representations of modern life. The works are also displayed in chronological order, from Boudin – considered the precursor of Impressionism – to Bonnard and Vuillard who took the movement to a new level in the early 20th century. The exhibition includes work by major artists including Manet, Renoir, Cézanne, Monet, Seurat, Van Gogh, Gauguin and Toulouse-Lautrec. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.

Tuareg family sleeping by Joanna Pinneo at the National Geographic exhibition at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

Still life by Giorgio Morandi in the Cézanne exhibition at the Vittoriano.

exhibitions NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC: THE GREAT ADVENTURE 28 Sept-2 Feb This photographic exhibition celebrates the National Geographic Society on the 125th anniversary of its founding in Washington in 1888. The exhibition, staged to celebrate the 15th anniversary of the magazine’s Italian version, charts the fascinating story of the society’s cultural, natural and archaeological exploits in some of the most remote corners of the world. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it. CÉZANNE E GLI ARTISTI DEL XX SECOLO 4 Oct-2 Feb The Vittoriano pays tribute to Paul Cézanne (1839-1906), the French PostImpressionist painter whose work laid the foundations for the transition from late 19th-century Impressionism to a new and radically different art world in the 20th century. The exhibition examines the influences the French artist had on the careers of a number of Italian artists such as Boccioni, Morandi, Afro, Scialoja and Pirandello. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 06678664.

Self portait by Gauguin at the Ara Pacis exhibition of Impressionism paintings.

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

GEMS OF IMPRESSIONISM 23 Oct-23 Feb The Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collection of Washington’s National Gallery of Art comes to Rome, the only European venue for the loan which leaves Washington for the first time. The exhibition comprises 68 works divided into thematic sections ranging from landscape to portrait, the

MARCEL DUCHAMP 8 Oct–19 Jan The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM) presents 14 “readymades” by Marcel Duchamp (1887-1968) on the centenary of the creation of Bicycle Wheel, the first readymade by the French painter and sculptor. The series was donated to the gallery in 1997 by art critic Arturo Schwarz, and is accompanied in the exhibition by a selection of works and archival documents, fundamental to understanding Duchamp’s artistic journey. In addition to the readymades, the exhibition highlights the influence that Duchamp had on the Italian art scene when, following solo shows in Milan and Rome in the mid-1960s, he interacted with a younger generation of Italian artists such as Baj, Baruchello, Dangelo and Patella whose works are included in this exhibition. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. THE 1970s. ART IN ROME 17 Dec-2 March The work of some 80 Italian and international artists is united in an exhibition celebrating art that was either produced or shown in Rome during the 1970s, a decade that was synonymous in Italy with artistic experimentation and political conflict. The show explores the work of artists that best represent the Rome art scene of that decade, incorporating a variety of schools and styles by artists who were active in movements from Arte Povera to conceptual, minimalist, analytical and narrative art. Among the best known Rome artists in the show are Burri, De Chirico, Twombly, Ontani, Cucchi and Ceccobelli, some of whose work appeared as Wanted in Rome covers in the past. The exhibition also showcases international artists who spent time in Rome during the 1970s, such as Beuys, LeWitt, Gilbert & George and Woodman. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

CLEOPATRA 12 Oct-2 Feb This exhibition is dedicated to the fascinating life of Cleopatra, the last pharaoh of Ancient Egypt, and the central role she played in the political events of the era. In particular the relationship between Egypt and the Roman empire is examined, brought to life by the exposition of over 200 historical and artistic pieces including sculptures, mosaics, earthenware, gold and glass. See page 9 for a review of exhibition. Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. AUGUSTUS 18 Oct-9 Feb The Scuderie del Quirinale marks the 2,000th anniversary of Augustus’s death with an exhibition that tells the extraordinary life story of the adopted son and grandnephew of Julius Caesar. The 40year reign of Augustus was the longest in Rome’s history and was marked by peace and prosperity. Under Augustus the empire expanded rapidly, to cover the whole of the Mediterranean basin. Augustus was both charismatic and politically astute, and his reign was documented extensively at the time by historians. Along with their writings, the exhibition explores the emperor’s life and career with a selection of statues, portraits and jewellery. Organised in association with Musei Capitolini in Rome, and the Grand Palais and Musée du Louvre in Paris. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www. scuderiequirinale.it. GIOSETTA FIORONI. L’ARGENTO 25 Oct-26 Jan An exhibition of more than 80 drawings, paintings, films, theatre models and illustrations by important Rome artist Giosetta Fioroni. All of the works displayed were created from 1960 to 1975, and all contain silver, an almost mercury-like colour long associated with the artist and which acts as the exhibition title. In addition to the works on paper there is a small display of ceramic works made by Fioroni over many years at the Bottega Gatti in Faenza. The exhibition is organised in collaboration with the Drawing Center in New York, where the same show was held earlier this year. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM), Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. ANTONIAZZO ROMANO 1 Nov-2 Feb Palazzo Barberini stages an exhibition of works by Antoniazzo Romano (c.1430– c.1510), an early Renaissance painter and leading figure of the Roman school

SS Vincenzo, Caterina and Antonio by early Renaissance painter Antoniazzo Romano at Palazzo Barberini.

during the 15th century. The exhibition illustrates the development and key moments in the artistic career of the important Rome artist who was a contemporary of Piero della Francesca, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Melozzo da Forlì and Perugino. Romano’s sacred work was much in demand from the Vatican, religious communities and noble families, particularly his depictions of the Madonna which were characterised by a similarity to modern females of that period. The 50 works on display on the ground floor of Palazza Barberini include large religious paintings, altarpieces, panels and decorative frescoes, and reveal how the painter combined Renaissance innovations with the splendour of mediaeval art. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www.galleriabarberini.beniculturali.it. MODIGLIANI, SOUTINE AND THE DAMNED ARTISTS 14 Nov-6 April The Netter collection of more than 120 works by artists such as Modigliani, Soutine, Utrillo, Valadon and Kisling are on display at Palazzo Cipolla after successful shows in Paris and Milan. All of these artists lived and worked in the Montparnasse quarter of Paris at the beginning of the 20th century, a revolutionary period in the history of art. Businessman Jonas Netter (1867 – 1946) was both a patron of the arts and an astute buyer who assembled a stellar collection of

Modigliani’s portrait of Jeanne Hébuterne from the Netter collection at Palazzo Cipolla.

Giosetta Fioroni’s iconic silver images on display at GNAM. 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

works by then-unknown, and often impoverished, artists. The works have not been shown publicly for over 70 years, and curator Marc Restellini says “today they appear almost as if by magic, from another world.” Palazzo Cipolla, Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www.fondazioneromamuseo.it.

Works by Paris-based artist Tatiana Trouvé at the Gagosian Gallery, photo S Altenburger.

TATIANA TROUVÉ 22 Nov–4 Jan Gagosian Gallery Rome stages The hundred titles in 36,524 days, an exhibition of new works by contemporary visual artist Tatiana Trouvé. Central to Trouvé’s installations, sculptures and drawings is the search to identify the boundaries that exist between fiction and reality, the mental and the physical, as well as exploring the concepts of time, space and memory. The artist is from Cosenza in southern Italy but lives and works in Paris. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642746429, www.gagosian.com. KONSTANTIN 28 Nov-12 Jan An exhibition at Trajan’s Markets celebrates the anniversary of the Edict of Milan in 313 – a pact between Constantine in the west and Licinius in the Balkans that resolved to treat the Christians benevolently. Under the patronage of the Pontifical Council for Culture, the exhibition subtitled The Edict of Constantine 1,700 years later comprises some 50 engravings by Veljko Mihajlović. The Serbian artist created the aquatints based on the emperor Constantine and his mother Helena, two important figures in the history of Christianity, during his travels to see frescoes in churches and monasteries across southern Europe. Trajan’s Markets, Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

Aquatints by Serbian artist Veljko Mihajlović at Trajan’s Markets.

Buste De Diego by Alberto Giacometti at Galleria Borghese.

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

GIACOMETTI. LA SCULTURA 4 Dec-11 March Billed as the largest Alberto Giacometti exhibition ever held in Italy, works by the Swiss artist are on display at Galleria Borghese. Around 40 drawings and sculptures, some monumental, take the gallery’s celebrated collection of ancient, renaissance, baroque and neoclassical sculpture into the 20th century. Among the works exhibited are Femme qui marche II (Peggy Guggenheim Museum, Venice), Buste de Diego (Centre Pompidou, Paris) and Femme de Venise V (private collection). Galleria Borghese, Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www.galleriaborghese.it.

For more exhibitions, including those at MACRO and MAXXI, see wwww.wantedinrome.com.

PENTTI SAMMALLAHTI QUI, ALTROVE 17 Oct–8 Dec Born in Finland in 1950, Pentti Sammallahti began photographing at 11 and had his first solo exhibition at 21. Today he is the doyen of Finnish photography, and is increasingly recognised as a master of visual art. This exhibition, Here Far Away, presents 120 black and white images spanning over 40 years, and allows the viewer to appreciate the patience, painstaking craft, sense of atmosphere, and gentle humour of this man from a Nordic country who enjoys cold weather, mist, snow, dusk, and says that he “waits for photographs like a pointer dog.” Sammallahti’s images are very varied: while animals are often the protagonists, he also observes the elements, the spaces of human settlement, especially in remote and forgotten places. Other times he focuses on the gestures and body language of people in towns or the wilderness. Intrinsic to the work is the masterly care he puts in the printing of his photographs, no matter whether tiny or large, analogue or digital. Sammallahti’s work is as informed by photography as it is by painting, printmaking, cinema (one thinks of Paul Strand and Béla Tarr, Bruegel and Josef Sudek). But cultured references aren’t essential to dwell on his images; the key to his approach is in his statement, “You do not take photographs, you receive them.” The exhibition is accompanied by a rich, beautifully printed catalogue, available in English, Italian, Finnish, French, Spanish, German. Galleria del Cembalo, Largo Fontanella Borghese 19, www.galleriadelcembalo.it. Jacopo Benci

music Latvian violinist Gidon Kremer leads the Kremer Trio for Accademia Filarmonica Romana.

Israeli pianist David Greilsammer debuts for Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti.

Georges Prêtre is guest conductor at the Auditorium in early January.

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This is just a short list of the classical concerts in Rome in December. For full details of what is available visit the musical associations’ websites. Accademia di S. Cecilia www.santacecilia.it, Accademia Filarmonica di Roma www.filarmonicaromana.org, Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti www.concertiiuc.it, Auditorium Parco della Musica, www. auditorium.com. Also look out for concerts in churches around the city during the Christmas festivities. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA 12 Dec Trio Kremer. The trio, led by the Latvian violinist Gidon Kremer, plays music by Janaček, Dvořák and Schulhoff. 19 Dec Concerto di Natale. Conducted by Pablo Colino with the Accademia choir. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA 7-9 Dec Antonio Pappano conducts Mascagni’s Guardando la Santa Teresa di Bernini, Leonidas Kavakos playing Brahms’ only violin concerto, which was dedicated to his friend and violinist Joseph Joachim, and Petrassi’s Magnificat. 8 Dec Afrique. In homage to the Zimbabwean musician and singer-song writer Dumisani Maraire, who died in 1999. Maraire played the mbira, taught in the United States in the 1970s and then introduced an ethnomusicology programme at the University of Zimbabwe in 1982. Music by Dumisani Maraire (Zimbabwe), Kevin Volans (South Af-

rica), Badara Seck (Senegal), Gabin Dabire (Burkina Faso). Produced by Fondazione Music per Roma, S. Cecilia and African communities in Rome. 13 Dec Rag, blues e altre storie. With music by Gershwin, Brubeck, Pieranunzi and Joplin. 14-17 Dec Antonio Pappano conducts Romanian pianist Radu Lupu. Music by Britten, Mozart and Brahms. 15, 22 Dec Concerto per Natale for young children and their parents by the very young players (VYP) of the JuniOrchestra and choir. 5-7 Jan Guest Georges Prêtre conducts a programme of music by Strauss, Tchaikovsky, Brahms, Weber, Ponchielli and Offenbach. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. AUDITORIUM CONCILIAZIONE 7 Dec Concerto di Natale. The traditional Christmas concert will raise money for clean water supplies in Benin this year. Via della Conciliazione, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI 10 Dec European Union Baroque Orchestra. Barock meets Baroque. Music by Bach, Leclair and Rameau. 14 Dec Il 900 e la musica AfroAmericana. Ials Jazz Big Band. 17 Dec Mio Debutto a Roma – David Greilsammer. Israeli pianist Greilsammer, who is the music director and principal conductor of the Geneva Chamber Orchestra, made his solo debut in the United States in 2004 at the Lincoln Center. He likes to explore contrasting musical worlds and juxtaposes the classical and the contemporary. He has recently recorded a new album called Mozart in-Between. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, www.concertiiuc.it.

festivals NUOVA CONSONANZA 3 Nov-15 Dec The Nuova Consonanza association is the oldest and largest contemporary music organisation in Rome and this year celebrates its 50th anniversary. It marks this milestone with Fonda-

The Roma Gospel Festival returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica this Christmas.

menta, a programme that sees the association return to its roots, performing works by some of its founding members: Bortolotti, De Blasio, Evangelisti, Guaccero, Macchi and Pennisi. A tribute dedicated to German composer Manfred Trojahn at the S. Cecilia (13 Dec) renews its ties with German culture, while the festival comes to a close with a performance by the Apeiron Sax Quartet at Olevano Romano (15 Dec). For tickets and information see www.nuovaconsonanza.it. PIÙ LIBRI PIÙ LIBERI 5-8 Dec The 12th edition of Piú Libri piú liberi, the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses, offers a literary programme of conferences, lectures, readings, theatre workshops, performances and presentations. Backed by the culture ministry, the annual event was founded in 2002 by Italy’s small publishers’ association to give smaller publishing houses an accessible platform as well as a way of engaging with the public. EUR, Palazzo dei Congressi, Piazzale Kennedy, www.piulibripiuliberi.it. ROMA GOSPEL FESTIVAL 21-31 Dec Billed as the most important festival of its genre in Europe, this year’s Roma Gospel Festival features an impressive line-up of choirs from the US including the Pace Sisters, The Golden Voices of Gospel, Bridgette Campbell, The Singletons, South Carolina Gospel Choir, Tina Brina Brown and The Gospel Messengers, and Earl Bynum & The Mount Unity Choir. The festival also welcomes back the Harlem Gospel Choir, who performed here last year, and ends with Cameroun’s Emmanuel Djob. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com.

Celebated tango dancers Miguel Zotto and Daiana Guspero for Tango Por Dos at the Auditorium Conciliazione.

NATALE ALL’AUDITORIUM 8 Dec-6 Jan Organisers say there is something for everyone, from the age of one to 101, at the Auditorium’s annual Christmas festival. The wide-ranging programme features music, theatre, circus, ice-skating, games, exhibitions and markets at the Auditorium which turns into a Christmas village for the duration of the popular event. Many of the activities are geared towards younger visitors, with attractions including Cartoon Heroes (21 Dec), and puppeteer Mimmo Cuticchios (27-30 Dec). There is an arts and crafts market Caravanserraglio, the traditional Chiarastella concert by the Orchestra Popolare Italiana which presents Christmas music from different Italian regions (5-6 Jan), and the Roma Gospel Festival (21-31 Dec). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com.

dance MILAN SERATA RATMANSKY 17 Dec-16 Jan Concerto DSCH, choreography by Alexei Ratmansky to music by Shostakovich, was awarded the best classical production of 2012 by the magazine Danza&Danza; Russian Seasons, with its classical technique is inspired by Russian traditional folklore and debuts at La Scala in a Bolshoi Ballet production; Opera is the world premiere of this new choreography and musical

composition by Russia’s top living composer Leonid Desyatnikov, created specially for La Scala dancers. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

rome TANGO POR DOS WITH MIGUEL ANGEL ZOTTO 17 Dec As the programme notes say: “Zotto is to tango what Nureyev was to ballet,” then going on to define him as one of the world’s top three tango dancers of this century. Dancer, choreographer and teacher of tango Zotto is also the founder and artistic director of TangoX2. Here he is dancing with Daiana Guspero, first dancer of Tangox2, and three other couples to the music of the Hyperion Ensemble. Auditorium Via della Conciliazone, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. NOTES DELLA NUIT 5-7 Jan Quartetto is Francesco Nappa’s new choreography for the Teatro dell’ Opera, which was performed for the first time in April this year, with music by Steve Reich and Philip Glas; Aunis choreographed by Jacques Garnier has been described as “an elegant and austere dance” which in a recent television film was set on a beach in the province of Aunis on the Atlantic coast of France, with the original accordion music by Maurice Pacher; Aria di Tango with choreography by Micha van Hoecke and music by Luis Bacalov. Teatro dell ‘Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, www. operaroma.it. 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

CHRISTMAS CLASSICS SWAN LAKE BY TCHAIKOVSKY 21 Dec-16 Jan This old favourite is danced by the ballet corps of the Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, www.operaroma.it. THE NUTCRACKER BY TCHAIKOVSKY 25 Dec-6 Jan The favourite of all Christmas ballets is danced by the Balletto di Roma, with Andre De La Roche in the lead role. But this version, staged two years ago, is not just a sugary fairytale. The Nutcracker was premiered on 18 December 1892 at the Marinsky theatre in St Petersburg, choreographed by Petipa on a score by Tchaikovsky, to the story by E.T.A Hoffmann. Auditorium Via della Conciliazione, www. auditoriumconciliazione.it.

books

BLOOD AND BEAUTY THE BORGIAS. A NOVEL BY SARAH DUNANT At the end of this book you may or may not have revised your ideas about the Borgia family but you will certainly have a clearer idea about the alliances and misdeeds of the noble families, the Orsini, Rovere, Sforza, Colonna, Farnese in 16th-century Italy. The Orsini, Rovere, Sforza, Colonna and Farnese all survive to this day; all that remains of the Borgia is their unscrupulous reputation. However Sarah

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

Andre De La Roche plays the lead role in the Balletto di Roma’s production of The Nutcracker. Photo right, Francesco Nappa’s Quartetto at the opera house.

Dunant, who has done for the Renaissance what Donna Leon has done for 20th-century Venice, takes a new look at the Borgias. Rodrigo Borgia, a Spaniard and therefore an outsider among the Italians who then dominated the Church, managed to climb his way up through the hierarchy and thanks to a canny succession of alliances got himself elected Pope Alexander VI in 1492. Into the papacy he brought his family – sons, daughter and lovers – and with them he ruled over European Christendom for nine years, from 1492-1503. But it is not Rodrigo, nor his daughter Lucrezia, who engage the imagination here. Lucrezia’s reputation as an evil and politically savvy schemer and seductress is redeemed in this book as an innocent girl who became a pawn in her father’s relentless hunt for power. It is rather Lucrezia’s brother Cesare, and Rodrigo’s advisor and chronicler, Johann Burchard, who are the intriguing figures in Dunant’s book. Did Cesare commit incest with Lucrezia? Did he kill her first lover and then her second husband in jealousy or from political expediency? Was he responsible for his brother Juan’s death, again out of jealousy? He was certainly an even more astute politician than his father and a brilliant military strategist who carved out an independent space for the papacy between the peninsula’s warring city states and the growing power of Spain and France abroad. Burchard was the ever-present German

master of papal ceremonies, fixer and chronicler of all events. An astute courtier he survived four popes from 1484 to his death in 1506 and it is largely thanks to him that the Borgias gained their reputation as unscrupulous and powerhungry schemers. The author promises another book on the Borgias and as she herself writes: “It may or may not surprise you that the story of the Borgias does not get any less exciting.” Published by Random House 2013. Available in hardback, paperback, audiobook and ebook. Mary Wilsey

opera MILAN LA TRAVIATA By Giuseppe Verdi 7 Dec-3 Jan La Traviata opens La Scala’s new season conducted by Daniel Gatti, directed by Dmitri Tcherniakov. Diana Damrau sings Violetta, together with Piotr Beczala and the famous Verdi baritone Željko Lučić. Damrau, who made her debut in the part of Violetta at New York’s Met in May this year, has had excellent reviews for her fresh interpretation of this dramatic and tragic role. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filorammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. See Opera Notes.

LE SPECTRE DE LA ROSE LA ROSE MALADE CAVALLERIA RUSTICANA 12 Jan- 9 Feb A combination of two ballets and one opera, all conducted by Daniel Harding. Le Spectre de la Rose was conceived for Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes and for Nijinski in order to fill a gap in 1911 when Nijinsky was still putting the finishing touches to L’Après-midi d’un Faune. La Rose Malade to music by Mahler was choreographed by Roland Petit for the great Russian ballet dancer Maja Plisetskaja. This production of Cavalleria Rusticana by Pietro Mascagni (it is the 150th anniversary of his birth this year) is the Mario Martone version, with the Latvian tenor Aleksandrs Antonenko and the soprano Liudmyla Monastyrska. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filorammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME ERNANI By Giuseppe Verdi 27 Nov-14 Dec Conducted by Riccardo Muti and directed by Hugo de Ana, with a Mutiformed Verdian cast of Luca Salsi, Tatiana Serjan, Anna Pirozzi, Francesco Meli, Ildar Abdrazakov and Ildebrando D’Archangleo. This is a new production in conjunction with Sydney Opera House. Ernani, the fifth of Verdi’s 28 operas, was first performed in 1844 at La

Fenice in Venice and was immediately popular but it is no longer staged very frequently. The New York Times has described it as having “the most implausible plot” of any Verdi opera. It tells a love tangle in 16th century Spain, with three suitors for the young Elvira, one of whom is Ernani, now a dashing bandit after he has lost his title and wealth during a civil war. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it. L’ENFANT ET LES SORTILEGES L’HEURE ESPAGNOLE By Ravel 30 Jan-6 Feb. Two one-act operas by Ravel, conducted by Charles Dutoit and directed by Laurent Pelly in a Glyndebourne festival production. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

Theatre KEVIN GILDEA 6-9 Dec Standup comedian Kevin Gildea from Ireland presents That Affable Irishman for the English Theatre of Rome. Gildea appears regularly on Irish television and is the co-founder of The Comedy Cellar, Dublin’s longest-running comedy club. In English. Teatro l’Arciliuto, Piazza Montevecchio 5, to reserve

Opera Notes The new season at La Scala opens with La traviata by Verdi in a new production conducted by Daniele Gatti and directed by Dmitri Tcherniakov. La traviata is an opera full of significance for Milan audiences. After the legendary production in the 1950s directed by Lucino Visconti and with Maria Callas in the lead role it almost vanished from the La Scala calendar until the 1990 version conducted by Riccardo Muti and directed by Liliana Cavani, with the “debutants” Tiziana Fabbricini and Roberto Alagna. Now La traviata, one of the world’s best-loved operas, has been chosen to close 2013, the bicentennial celebrations of Verdi’s birth, and to open the new season. La traviata di Giuseppe Verdi (7 dicembre – 3 gennaio) apre i battenti della stagione 2013/14 del Teatro alla Scala di Milano: sul podio il direttore Daniele Gatti, in palcoscenico il regista Dmitri Tcherniakov e come protagonisti il soprano Diana Damrau, il tenore Piotr Beczala e il baritono Željko Lučić, tutti grandi e importanti nomi della lirica internazionale, che hanno brillato ed entusiasmato nei teatri di mezzo mondo. L’elemento che desta più stupore di questa inaugurazione è però l’opera scelta: La traviata di Verdi, che per il pubblico scaligero è un titolo carico di significato e da pronunciare con riverenza. Dopo l’allestimento della metà degli anni ’50 del secolo scorso, che vedeva regista il grande Luchino Visconti e nel ruolo di Violetta Valery la

Well-known Irish comedian Kevin Gildea comes to the English Theatre of Rome.

seats tel. 3489355626 or email rometheatre@yahoo.com. THE GORGEOUS GAITIES FOR THE 21st CENTURY 14 Dec. Acting in English presents The Gorgeous Gaities for the 21st Century. Directed by Terriane Falcone, the production is part scripted, part improvised. Organisers promise it will be “a wholly ridiculous night of silliness”, featuring “a viking girl in distress, poets on an international rampage, and the Queen.” 17.00. 20.00. For tickets email actinginenglishrome@gmail.com or tel. 333/4644167. Teatro Le Maschere, Via Saliceti 1/3.

leggendaria Maria Callas, La traviata non è stata più rappresentata alla Scala per più di trent’anni – eccetto una fugace e contestatissima produzione del 1964 dovuta a Franco Zeffirelli, a Herbert von Karajan e in alternanza nel ruolo del titolo a Mirella Freni e Anna Moffo – è sparita da Milano fino al 1990 quando vi tornò per la direzione di Riccardo Muti, la regia di Liliana Cavani e i “debuttanti” Tiziana Fabbricini e Roberto Alagna. Uno spettacolo che ottenne un vivo successo e che fu riproposto per altre stagioni sempre alla Scala (ma anche in Spagna, Stati Uniti e Giappone) e sempre con il plauso del pubblico e della critica. Adesso La traviata (opera tra le più amate e rappresentate nel mondo) è scelta per inaugurare la nuova stagione del massimo tempio della lirica milanese e presentata come spettacolo di chiusura di un 2013 che sarà ricordato come l’anno dei festeggiamenti per il bicentenario della nascita di Giuseppe Verdi. Paolo Di Nicola

Soprano Diana Damrau in of La Traviata at La Scala a new production in Milan.

4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

LA VITA E’ UNA COSA MERAVIGLIOSA 17 Dec-5 Jan Teatro Eliseo’s Christmas show La vita è una cosa meravigliosa is written and directed by popular Neapolitan actor, comedian and director Carlo Buccirosso. In a world that has lost its most reassuring values and certainties, where life seems more like a struggle for survival, comfort can be found in the family. Buccirosso says his “poisonous but hilarious comedy” follows the “happenings of a happy little family” living in contemporary Italy. In Italian. Teatro Eliseo, Via Nazionale 183, tel. 0648872222, www.teatroeliseo.it. ITALY IN THERAPY 17 Dec-24 Feb The Sala Umberto presents Italy in Therapy, a theatrical festival dedicated to Italy’s burning issues. The programme continues on 17 Dec with Magazzino 18 which tackles the mass exodus of Italians after Tito’s Yugoslavia annexed former northern Italian territory in 1947; Nel nome di chi? (18 Feb) explores the work of the Vatican’s governing bodies in recent decades; and the festival ends with Imparare la libertà (24 Feb) in which the unlikely duo of ex-Mani Pulite magistrate Gherardo Colombo and rapper FrankieHi-Nrg discuss freedom and education. All plays in Italian. Teatro Sala Umberto, Via della Mercede 50, tel. 066794753, www.salaumberto.com.

Traditional Japanese wood-block prints, known as ukiyo-e, at the Japanese Cultural Institute.

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

THE MOUSETRAP 26 Dec-6 Jan Agatha Christie’s classic mystery murder play The Mousetrap opened in London’s West End in 1952 and has been running continuously ever since, becoming the longest-running show of any kind in the modern era. The action takes place at Monkswell Manor, a London guest house, where a number of guests become snowed in together and read of a murder in the newspaper. When one of the party is murdered, suspicion turns on each of the surviving guests as well as the hosts. According to tradition, the audience is requested not to reveal the surprise ending on leaving the theatre. Director Stefano Messina describes the play as “a perfect blend of suspense, thriller and comedy.” In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it.

Academies AMERICAN ACADEMY 5 Dec Constantine, Eusebius of Caesarea and the Future of Christianity. Lecture by Peter Brown, professor emeritus of history at Princeton University, who will outline the notion of the future expansion of Christianity as espoused by Eusebius of Caesarea and as applied by emperor Constantine. Brown will attempt to illuminate how Christians at the time of Constantine would have viewed Christianity’s future prospects. 18.30. 12-13 Dec Libraries, Lives and the Organization of Knowledge in the Pre-Modern World. Two-day conference examining the history and role of libraries, archives and lists over the course of antiquity as well as the changing attitudes towards knowledge production and the changing content of “learnedness” itself. 09.00-18.00. The American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065852151, www.aarome.org. BELGIAN ACADEMY 5 Nov-31 Jan Wunderkammer: Camera delle meraviglie contemporanea exhibition features the work of leading contemporary artists working in Belgium and Italy. Curated by A. Nardone, organised with the support of the Belgian Science Policy Office, the embassy of Belgium in Rome and the Fondazione InbevBaillet Latour. Academia Belgica, Via Omero 8, tel. 0620398631, www.academiabelgica.it.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 11 Dec Architecture. Dutch architect Reinier de Graaf gives a lecture about his work directing AMO, the celebrated thinktank of the Office for Metropolitan Architecture, and questions why so many disciplines resort to architectural terminology to describe their strategies and concepts. 18.00. 13 Dec-21 Dec BSR Fine Arts exhibition features work by artists Johann Arens, Julia Davis, Archie Franks, Danièle Genadry, AnnMarie James, Marius von Brasch; and architect Edward Simpson. 18.30-21.30. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 4 Oct-19 Jan The French Academy at Villa Medici presents the first major Italian exhibition devoted to French photographer Patrick Faigenbaum. Curated by critic JeanFrançois Chevrier and artist Jeff Wall, the exhibition comprises some 100 works of varying sizes, including portraits, landscapes and still lifes spanning the artist’s 40-year career. Académie de France à Rome - Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611, www.villamedici.it. SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 1 Dec-7 Feb Cattedrale is a collective project, commissioned by the Swiss Institute in Rome, to continue the debate on the value and meaning of painting in contemporary society. The project is the result of a number of working sessions and discussions by artists led by Enzo Cucchi (whose work has featured on a Wanted in Rome cover in 2011). Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, roma@istitutosvizzero.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 4 Nov-14 Dec The Japanese Cultural Insititute exhibits some traditional Japanese wood-block prints, known as ukiyo-e, from the collection of the Fondazione del Monte of Bologna and Ravenna. The woodcut was introduced to Japan from China in the eighth century but didn’t develop as an art form until the 17th century. Entitled Un Tesoro svelato dell’Ukiyo-e, the exhibition is divided into five sections: the first offers a selection of prints from the Kamigata region; the second and third are dedicated respectively to Utagawa Kunisada and Kuniyoshi Utagawa, two of the greatest ukiyo-e artists of 19th-century; the fourth section presents works by other important ukiyo-e artists; and the fifth is devoted to rare prints for children. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it.

CHRISTMAS MARKETS The famous Mercatini di Natale, Rome’s Christmas markets and bazaars, light up the eternal city during the advent period. In late November, the day after Thanksgiving, the holiday shopping season begins officially, and lasts until the day after the feast of the Epiphany (or La Befana as it is known in Rome) on 6 January. Besides the numerous outdoor markets which create an enchanting Christmas atmosphere around the city’s famous squares and streets, there are also several indoor bazaars, held at international schools and churches. Here shoppers can purchase handmade and second-hand items as unique Christmas presents, as well as discover international Christmas traditions. Most markets offer fun activities for children and typical live entertainment, such as music by classical pipers from the Abruzzo region. PIAZZA NAVONA 1 Dec-6 Jan Piazza Navona hosts this famous open air fair, which ends with a traditional parade for La Befana (the witch who brings sweets for good children and fake coal for those who have b e e n naughty) on 6 January. Numerous stands sell handmade Christmas presents and toys, as well as decorations for the Christmas tree and crib. If you search you can still find nativity figures made out of terracotta. Children can ride on the merry-go-round in the centre of the square. 09.00-23.00. ICE PARK AT TOR DI QUINTO 1 Dec-6 Jan Viale Tor di Quinto is the location for the Christmas village, with a large iceskating rink for children and adults, as well as children’s fun park Bimbilandia,

laser games, cafes and other entertainment. Mon-Sun 10.00-24.00. Viale Tor di Quinto 57, tel. 0698260443, www.icepark.it. AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA 4 Dec-6 Jan Ciu Ciu Bosco and Flavia Donà dalle Rose organise this annual Christmas bazaar, better known as Caravanserraglio, around the outdoor spaces of the Auditorium. A 300-sqm tent hosts over 50 exhibitors, who display their original Christmas presents and bijoux created by Italian craftsmen, artists and designers. 10.30-21.00. Spazio Serra, Viale Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 3392314592, 337728681, www.caravanserraglio.info. S. MARIA DELL’ANIMA 6 Dec The church of S. Maria dell’Anima, just off Piazza di Spagna, is a point of reference for the German Catholic community in Rome, and each year it organises a traditional ceremony for the feast of St Nicholas, the patron saint of children. Children welcome St Nicholas with some typical German songs and, after he has explained the tradition, the old man calls the children one by one and gives them a cone containing sweets, nuts and chocolates. Booking required. 16.00-18.00. Via di S. Maria dell’Anima 64, tel. 0668801394. RESTAURANT CASA NOVECENTO 8, 15, 22 Dec, 5 Jan Rome on Demand hosts the second edition of this outdoor Christmas market at Casa Novecento. On sale are hand-baked cakes, scented candles as well as handmade bags and shoes, jewellery and clothes. Via Guglielmo Marconi 32, tel. 3397544585, for further information contact info@romeondemand.it.

By Gabrielle Bolzoni AMERICAN OVERSEAS SCHOOL OF ROME 15 Dec The American Overseas School of Rome holds its annual Winter Bazaar with numerous stands offering pottery, mosaic tables, iron craftwork, traditional food, wine, jewellery, toys, candles and artwork. 11.00-16.00. Via Cassia 811, tel. 0633438300, www.aosr.org. MOS MAIORUM 15 Dec The cultural association Mos Maiorum hosts this annual indoor Christmas market, held in the beautiful surroundings of the Marriott’s Courtyard Central Park Hotel. Over 60 exhibitors offer a great selection of handmade Italian produce at bargain prices. The stands range from haute couture and clothes to accessories and vintage jewellery. There is entertainment for children from 15.30 to 18.30. 09.30-19.30. Via Moscati 7, tel. 3393609602, 3343315211, www. associazionemosmaiorum.it. MERCATO MONTI 7,8,14,21,22,28,29 Dec This well known urban market in the heart of the central Monti district is holding a number of Christmas editions during December. Since 2009 it has provided new ideas for affordable high quality presents, exclusively made in Italy, as well as promoting young design talents and offering an alternative shopping experience. Its stands focus on fashion, design, vintage and many other creations by Italian makers and craftsmen. On 15 Dec the market is also holding a special event at the Radisson Blu Es Hotel on Via Filippo Turati 171, from 12.00 to 22.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-20.00. Conference Hall Hotel Palatino, Via Leonina 46 (Metro B, Cavour stop), www.mercatomonti. com.

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town 3 BEDROOM APARTMENT COLOMBO / GROTTAPERFETTA. Attic apartment with large terrace overlooking Rome: 3 bedrooms, dining-living room, kitchen, 2 bathrooms, garage. Rooms have air conditioning, double glazed windows. Call 3297005740. APPIA ANTICA - INTERNATIONAL POINT GROUP. Villa, 350 sqm on 2 levels, sitting room, kitchen, 6 bedrooms, bathrooms, terrace, garden 1.500 sqm. €4.300. www.internationalpoint.it. APPIA ANTICA. Beautiful restored furnished villa sqm 300, large sitting room, kitchen, 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, garden, parking . Tel. 0654211074. ARDEATINO. Piramide Piazzale Ardeatino, residential, high floor, living room with kitchenette, room, service and balcony. Furnished. €950. Classe G. Tel. 0652205391. Immobiliare@eurocenterweb.it. AVENTINO. Via S. Anselmo. Furnished apartment, 50 sqm, second floor, sitting room, kitchen, double bedroom, bathroom. €1.200. Tel. 0654211074, www. internationalpoint.it. AVENTINO. 75 sqm, 5th floor with 2 terraces, recently restored, semi furnished, living room, dining room, 2 bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen. Monthly rent. €1.900 neg. Other excellent properties on www. propertyint.net. English, French, German mother tongue assistance. Property International tel. 065743170. ANCIENT VILLA NEAR TRASTEVERE STATION. Trastevere station. wonderful spacious room in ancient villa with garden and terrace, wifi and cleaner. Bike and car parking if needed. Home shared with two academicians. Free 23 Nov. Weekly €250, monthly €650. giada.dafne@gmail.com. CAMILLUCCIA. Near Marymount School and the New English school; residential

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

area 180-sqm, furnished, 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, living-dining room, maid’s quarter, 3 balconies, garage, €2.000, tel. 335 / 7381430. CASSIA (NEAR AOSR). In compound (private park, tennis). Elegant 220-sqm apartment, surrounded by terrace, living room, dining room, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, furnished kitchen, maid’s quarters. €2.300. Tel. 068610871. imm.edwards@gmail.com. CENTRE PINCIANO NEAR PIAZZA VERDI. Elegant semi-furnished apartment with beautiful glass works. Studio, 2 bedrooms, smaller bedroom, 2 bathrooms, €3.000. Fidia immobiliare. Tel. 0639736426. CENTRO STORICO - GHETTO. High floor, lift, 1 bedroom, study, 2 bathrooms. Lovely views. €2.000. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio. CORSO TRIESTE. Elegantly furnished / unfurnished 160-sqm apartment, airconditioned, living-dining room, balcony, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, furnished kitchen, garage-box. Tel. 068610871. imm.edwards@gmail.com. CORTINA D’AMPEZZO (5 MINUTES’ DRIVE TO MARYMOUNT SCHOOL). Elegantly furnished / unfurnished. Beautiful 170-sqm apartment, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living-dining room, 70 sqm, terrace, individual heating, double car-port. Tel. 068610871. imm.edwards@ gmail.com. EUR - ARDIGO. 3rd floor elegant building with doorman, living kitchen, bedroom, bathoroom, terrace. €1.000. Tel. 065919125, info@penthouseimmobiliare.it. EUR - COLOMBO. Prestigious penthouse of 240 sqm, terrace of over 100 sqm with a beautiful view of Rome, excellent condition. €2.500. Tel. 065919125, info@ penthouseimmobiliare.it. EUR - EGEO. 3rd floor, empty apartment, elegant building, hall, living kitchen, 2

bathrooms, 2 bedrooms, terraces. €1.500. Tel. 065919125, info@penthouseimmobiliare.it. EUR - GOZZOLI. In residential complex with swimming pool and tennis courts, offer the lease of an apartment renovated, luxury vanity of large size. Classe G, tel. 0652205391, immobiliare@eurocenterweb.it. EUR - NEAR METRO. Quiet, bright, comfortable, 3 bedrooms, sitting room, dining room, 2 bathrooms, completely furnished kitchen, balcony, parking, €2.000, tel. 339 / 3421012, 065037468. EUR - PENTHOUSE. 3rd floor empty apartment. Elegant building, hall, living kitchen, 2 bathrooms, 2 bedrooms, terraces. €1.700. Tel 065919125, info@ penthouseimmobiliare.it. EUR - SERAFICO, PENTHOUSE. 5th floor, 210 sqm, large living room, 4 bedrooms, kitchen, 3 bathrooms, fitted panoramic terraces, €2.000. Tel. 065919125, info@ penthouseimmobiliare.it. EUR - VIA NEPAL. Enchanting apartment in villa, recently remodeled, two levels with beautiful garden and pool. €7.000. Tel. 065919125, info@penthouseimmobiliare.it. EUR. Outstanding luxuriously furnishedunfurnished apartment, suitable topranking personality: large salon, dining room, 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, all comforts, terraces, garage, €3.000. Also other similar: large semi-furnished with garden, tel. 339 / 3421012 - 065037468. EUR. Nice compound with swimming pool, 50 sqm, sitting room, kitchen bedroom, studio, bathroom, terrace. €1.100. info@internationalpointgroup. com. EUR. 1st floor completly renovated and furnished with new modern furniture. Consists of a big studio with kitchenette, bathroom, terrace, €850. Tel 065919125, info@penthouseimmobiliare.it.

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4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

FLAT FOR RENT IN S. LORENZO AREA. S. Lorenzo / University, splendid open space on 3 levels, 1 bedroom, garden, terrace. Excellent condominium. Quiet. €1.250. Metro B, tram 3. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it. FLEMING. Via Valdagno, residential, entrance, living room, kitchen, two bathrooms, garden and parking space. G Class. Tel. 0652205391, immobiliare@ eurocenterweb.it. GARDEN FLAT IN MONTEVERDE NEAR TRASTEVERE. Twin bedroom, spacious living room (convertible into bedroom), bathroom, kitchen, 30-sqm terrace. Veranda, barbecue Wi-fi. €1050, tel. 3473608854. Private landlord NO FEES https://www.airbnb.it/rooms/46498 GIANICOLO ROOM. Nice quiet room in a period building apartment inside a green private park, 10 min by foot to Trastevere, 2 min by foot to Gianicolo viev. Well connected (quattro venti station) wi-fi, electricity and gas included. €500 per month. HISTORIC CENTRE NEAR COLOSSEUM. Beautiful penthouse 280 sqm. Living room, dining room, ample terrace with exceptional view, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, fully-equipped kitchen, maid’s quarters, individual heating. Tel. 068610871. imm.edwards@gmail.com. HOUSE FOR RENT. A two-rooms apartment in a villa full furnished with big terrace. 800 meters from train station to get to the city centre. Two car places. €800 per month, all included. ombretta. clarke@alice.it. INFERNETTO - VIA CANAZEI. 2 family villa, 300 sqm, big kitchen, studio, 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, big garden and patio. €2.300. Tel. 065916760, mld.customercare@gmail.com. LARGO OLGIATA. Largo Olgiata in a residential complex in the green house renovated tri-level large size. Garden sqm 3.000. Tel. 0652205391, immobiliare@ eurocenterweb.it. Classe G. MONTEVERDE (CASALETTO). In compound, refurbished 160-sqm apartment, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living-dining room, terrace overlooking park, furnished kitchen, maid’s quarters, car-port. 10 / 15 minutes drive to WFP. €1.800. Tel. 068610871. imm.edwards@gmail.com. MONTEVERDE. 2nd floor, living room, kitchen, three bedrooms, two bathrooms, balcony, air conditioning, €1.400. Tel. 065919125, info@penthouseimmobiliare.it. MONTEVERDE. 115 sqm. Near Tram 8. Remodeled. Sunny 2-bedroom 2-bath American-style kitchen storage, parking. jisraely@yahoo.com.

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

MONTI, VIA DEL BOSCHETTO. Very bright top floor, with lift, apartment. Wi-Fi, A/C, 2 bedrooms, 2-4 people. monti35@fastwebnet.it, tel. 339 / 5381750. MONTI. Semi-furnished, 150-sqm apartment, 3rd floor on 2 levels, lower level living room with dining area, eat-in furnished kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, small terrace, upper level - studio, guests room, bathroom. Monthly rent €2.800 neg. Other excellent properties on www.propertyint.net English, French, German mother tongue assistance. Property International, tel. 065743170. MONTI. Semi-furnished, 150 sqm apartment on 2 levels, 3rd floor, lift, lower level - living room with dining area, eat-in furnished kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, small terrace, upper level - studio, guest’s room, bathroom. Monthly rent €2.800 neg. Other excellent properties on www.propertyint.net. English, French, German mother tongue assistance. Property International tel. 065743170. MOVING TO ROME? Check our listings, we offer assistance during your stay in English and German. www.casaitaly.it, find us on Facebook, tel. 068419827. NEAR ISOLA TIBERINA. Trastevere, near Isola Tiberina, unique townhouse, 3 levels, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, semi furnished, small terrace. Country atmosphere. €2.000. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@ virgilio.it. NEAR VATICAN. Central area, near Vatican. Via E. Donato, empty, hall, living room, 1 bedroom, live-in kitchen, bathroom, canteen, class G. €950, Fidia Immobiliare. Tel. 0639736426. PARIOLI - PENTHOUSE IMMOBILIARE. 3rd floor, completely remodeled foyer, double living room, 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, storage room, eat-in kitchen. €2.800. Tel. 065919125. info@penthouseimmobiliare.it. PARIOLI NEAR DUSE. Parioli near Duse, apartment in a residential complex, furnished, spacious, entrance hall, spacious living, three bedrooms, kitchen, three bathrooms. Two parking. Garden sqm 500. Tel. 0652205391, immobiliare@eurocenterweb.it. Classe G. PARIOLI. Elegant 140-sqm apartment, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living- dining room, terrace, furnished kitchen, carport. Rent €2.300. Tel. 068610871, imm. edwards@gmail.com. PARIOLI. Beautiful, 200 sqm. apartment, air-condiiond, living room, dining room, terrace, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, builtin closets, maid’s quarters, fully-equipped kitchen, garage-box, storage-room. Tel. 068610871. imm.edwards@gmail.com.

PARIOLI. 140 sqm, 3rd floor, semifurnished, large living room with fireplace, dining area, study, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, furnished kitchen, balcony. Monthly rent €3.000-neg. Other excellent properties on www.propertyint.net. English, French, German mother tongue assistance. Property International tel. 065743170. PIAZZA BOLOGNA. Nomentana near Piazza Bologna. Quiet area, empty attic, living room, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, terrace, G class. €1.350. Fidia immobiliare 0639736426. PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. Piazza di Spagna, unique, cottage-like, with garden, on 2 floors, 1 bedroom, quiet, lovely street. €1.800. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it. PORTA LATINA - NEAR FAO. Delightful apartment, ground floor, double and single bedroom, living room, study, large lovely terrace, parquet floor, grated windows, porter, internet access, very quiet, well connected. Non residents. Tel. 339 / 5956502 email francescaromana.cecchetti@luxottica.com. PRATI. Via della Giuliana, empty, hall, living room, bedroom, small room, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, class G, €1.100, Fidia Immobiliare, tel. 0639736426. PRATI. In the heart of Prati, Via T. Campanella, empty attic, refurbished, living room, live in kitchen, 2 bathrooms, free as from January. €1.950. Fidia Immobiliare, tel. 0639736426. PRATI. Prati, near Piazza Mazzini. Attic, empty, two levels, living room, 2 bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen, balcony, panoramic terrace. Free from January. G class. €2.000. Fidia Immobiliare, tel. 0639736426. PRATI. 160 sqm, 4th floor, lift, restored, coffered ceilings, furnished / semi furnished, large living room, 3 bedrooms, bathroom, furnished kitchen. Monthly rent €2.500. Other excellent properties on www.propertyint.net. English, French, German mother tongue assistance. Property International tel. 065743170. ROME SWEET HOME - HISTORIC CENTRE. Lets to companies and private individuals. Exclusive locations. Apartments, 1 - 2 - 3 bedrooms, completely furnished, maid service, utilities included, special rates for monthly lets. www.travelbusinessapartments.it, info@romesweethome.it. Tel. 0669924091, 335 / 7713580. ROOM FOR LET NEAR TEATRO BRANCACCIO. Single room, S. Maria Maggiore, metro A/B. Share the bathroom. Kitchen and washing machine. Tel. 338 / 7911289, 377 / 8179515, 334 / 2804284.

S. GIOVANNI. Lovely studio apartment, terrace, just redone, fully equipped. €750. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it. S. GIOVANNI. Semi-furnished 220-sqm apartment on 2nd floor of 1920s building with high ceilings, newly restored, Living room, dining room, 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, eat-in kitchen, balconies. Doorman in building. Monthly rent €3.000- Other excellent properties on www.propertyint.net. English, French, German mother tongue assistance. Property International tel. 065743170. S. SABA. 150 sqm apartment, 3rd floor, bright, semi-furnished, living room, study, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, furnished kitchen, long wide balconies, parking. Monthly rent €2.400 neg. Other excellent properties on www.propertyint. net. English, French, German mother tongue assistance. Property International, tel. 065743170. SPAGNA. Piazza Spagna, charming studio, €800. Barberini, open space on 2 levels, quiet, €900. Trastevere, studio, €950. Balduina, bright, new, one bedroom apartment, balcony. €1.000. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it ST PETER’S. Furnished studio apartment: bathroom, kitchen corner, TV, A/C, wifi, garden. Renting daily, weekly, monthly, €700 - €900, tel. 329 / 8041115, 340 / 3106079, email: clotilde.salustri@libero.it. TRASTEVERE. Trastevere, very special townhouse, country atmosphere, 3 floors, 2 bedrooms, quiet. €2.000. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it. TRASTEVERE. Trastevere, lovely building, characteristic, livingroom, 2 bedrooms, eat-in kitchen, balcony. €1.500. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it. TRASTEVERE. Furnished 40-sqm apartment, bright semibasement. 3 rooms, kitchenette, bathroom, condominium terrace, 3/4 people, € 950 or €270/week. VL@mclink.it. TRIESTE - VIA POLA. Very elegant building of the beginning of the 900. Perfectly restructured apartment on the second floor. 140 sqm. Living room, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, live-in kitchen, 2 balconies, 30 sqm terrace. Super attic. Parking space in the condo. €2.500. mld. customercare@gmail.com. VIALE AVENTINO. Viale Aventino, next to FAO, finely refurbished, higly representative, empty, double living room, studio, 3 bedrooms, childrens room, two bathrooms, live in kitchen, three balconies. Free as from January. €4.500. Fidia Immobiliare, tel. 0639736426. VIGNA STELLUTI - VIA FERRERO DI CAMBIANO. Elegant Condo with surveil-

lance 24/h. 170 sqm, double entrance, double living room, dining room, 3 bedrooms, child’s room, 3 bathrooms, live-in kitchen. €2.300. Tel. 065916760, mld. customercare@gmail.com.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA. 50 km from Rome, apartment in old castle: living room, bathroom, kitchen, 2 bedrooms, unfurnished, €450 + €40 condominium, tel. 066786400. TREVIGNANO HIDEAWAY. Roomy apartment in villa magnificent views Lake Bracciano, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, big living-dining, wifi, parking acre garden. Tel. 0699919929, 3406165748. judyharris123@gmail.com. ZAGAROLO – 20 MILES FROM ROME CENTRE. Cottage, attractive, furnished in Zagarolo 20 miles from center of Rome with good fast train connections. Bedroom, sitting room, living kitchen, bathroom, own garden within large property, tennis and pool. € 650 monthly. Tel. 347 / 7037894, drroversi@virgilio.it.

Bed & Breakfast CASA VIVANTI B&B. Silent, comfortable, non-smoking rooms with a view, private bathrooms and all the amenities, steps away from St. Peters! Languages spoken! 388-2475226. SINGLE TRAVELERS. Single travelers wanting exclusive B&B in fascinating private penthouse with fantastic views in the heart of Trastevere? Email Graziella at ego2000@libero.it.

JOB VACANT BRITISH SCHOOL GROUP is looking for CELTA qualified mother-tongue teachers available for courses in S. Giovanni and Ostiense from 6 to 9 pm. Please send your CV to dosfiumicino@britishschool.it or phone to 066581642. BUSINESS ENGLISH TRAINER. The Language Grid is seeking highly motivatedUniversity graduated, Business English Trainers to work on in-company Language acquisition programs. Applicants MUST meet the following criteria: 1) Be a mother tongue English speaker - no exception. 2) Hold a recognised university degree preferably in a finance/business related field. 3) Have teaching experience

or willing to learn. 4) Have legal permission to work in Italy. 5) Have impeccable personal/professional presentation. 6) Have own computer with current word package and access to remote internet. 7) Have a passion for training and development. 8) Be energetic and motivated. 9) Be able to attend a face to face interview in Milan or Rome - expenses NOT paid by The Language Grid. Please see the “work with us link” on the contact page of our web site. Incomplete applications will NOT be considered. info@ thelanguagegrid.com CALLING ALL ENGLISH TEACHERS! Are you a native English speaker and qualified teacher looking for work in Rome? Send us your CV. alternative.englishteaching@gmail.com. DARBY SCHOOL OF LANGUAGES. Darby School is hiring professional mother tongue teachers for immediate work all over Rome. Excellent conditions. Contact us for an Interview. Tel. 0651962205. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS OPPORTUNITY IN ROME. A.D. Global Solution S.r.l. is now recruiting teachers in Rome for in-company business English courses. We require the following: - minimum 3 yrs teaching experience towards adult students; - well organized and highly motivated with a professional approach. Please send copy of your cv. ufficioselezione@adglobalsolution.it. ENGLISH MOTHER-TONGUE OR FLUENT SPEAKING. Established Nanny & Babysitting agency based in Rome is hiring, English mother-tongue or fluent speaking, live-in au pairs, nannies, and babysitters for full time, part-time, or live-in full time jobs in Italian families. For any further information please contact 3478182380 or email info@mayagency.it. ENGLISH TEACHERS NEEDED. Established English School currently seeking full / part-time English mother-tongue teachers for adult and children courses. Full training provided. Contact us on 0647823253 or send your CV to teachers@angloamerican.it. ESTABLISHED PRESTIGIOUS LANGUAGE school Rome seeks mothertongue English teachers. Offering good weekly wage, professional environment, immediate start. Tel. 063611508, newbritishcentres@gmail.com. FULL-TIME STUDENT SERVICES DIRECTOR SEEKING. American based study abroad program in Rome seeks energetic, positive & outgoing Student Services Director for full-time position. Weekend traveling and evening work involved. Candidate must be fluent in Italian and English and have a good understanding of the American university 4 December 2013 | Wanted in Rome

system. Experience working with American or international groups (preferably students), management skills, Italian work authorization and Master’s degree required. Please send the application letter and CV (in English), to the attention of Federica Guerrieri, Human Resources Office, at applicationapifi@ gmail.com by Wednesday, 13 November. rome@apistudyabroad.com. LOCAL COUNSELOR. Principal Relocation Company seeks freelance local counselors to accompany corporate clients to view properties, public offices, etc. in Rome. Own transport necessary. CV to cv@reloprc.com ref: LC-RM MOTHER TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHER. BRITISH INSTITUTES di Valmontone seeks mother tongue English teachers. TEFL/Celta YL or equivalent qualification. Experience teaching children and adult classes a plus.Send CV to valmontone@britishinstitutes.it. MUSIC TEACHER for international school. Music teacher to replace a maternity leave from January to June 2014. Bachelor’s degree, native English speaker, two to three years of teaching experience in music and a strong background in vocal music and piano required. MA degree in music preferred. Secondary valid permesso di Soggiorno required. Please email a detailed CV and references to jobs@aosr.org or fax to 0633262608. PART-TIME NANNY WANTED - AFTERNOONS. Looking for English (or Polish) speaking nanny to help out in the afternoons M-F 16.30-19.30 looking after 2.5 year old boy and 6 month girl. The job is available from February 2014. marta. daina@gmail.com. PARTNERSHIP IN AN IMPORTANT LANGUAGE SCHOOL OFFERED. A well established private language shool (running since 1976) aiming to expand its activity seeks partners with experience. Good opportunity. fulvioscalercio@gmail.com. QUALIFIED AND EXPERIENCED EFL TEACHERS. Native, qualified and experienced EFL teachers urgently required for children and adults. Celta or equivalent plus some experience preferable. fleming@britishschoolroma.it, tel. 0633220960, www.britishschoolroma.it. RECRUITING ROME - BASED ENGLISH TEACHERS. International company specialising in language training for business is recruiting Rome-based English teachers. Native speakers with work permit, degree and teaching qualification, ideally 3 years’ teaching experience / professional background (legal, finance, business). CV to roma@linguarama.com or tel. 0685355707.

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

lessons ENGLISH LADY, OXFORD GRADUATE. English lady, Oxford University graduate, long experience, offers English lessons/conversation (adults only). Tel 068105213 / 3405161007.

Office to rent QUALITY REPRESENTATION OFFICE. Very prestigious location. Sqm 550, 3 entrance, 4 internal parking, LIBERTY building. Tel. 3398197482, studio.genesi@ tiscali.it. www.immobiliaregenesi.it

and sun bathers and hosts various water sport events, including sailing and water skiing. A children’s recreation park is adjacent to a country style coffee shop; a large terrace shaded with vine, faces the lake. There are several excellent restaurants and other necessary daily amenities available in the area. Rome, the eternal city, being in the proximity of 75KM is a unique advantage. Fiumicino and Ciampino airports are both approximately an hour to an hour and a half away. Pescara on the Adriatic coast is also about an hour away, and has an airport. The property will be sold furnished. For more information visit: www.villadelsalto.com, allenrahman@tiscali.it. Tel. 065022654 between 09.30 and 19.00.

Rooms and flat shares Property for sale in town NEW SEMI-DETACHED HOMES. Five semi-detached villas in the medieval style “borghetto” on the picturesque and scenic “Colle Lydia” in Nepi (VT) 20 minutes from Rome’s GRA and 2 km from the center of the beautiful town of Nepi. Each house has independent heating, a garden and is between 57 and 68 M². f.barbara@hotmail.it.

BALDUINA. Single room, with private bathroom, in apartment to share with landlady. Use of kitchen, washing machine, dining corner with TV. Near bus stop, train station, metro A. €650 monthly, including internet connection, room clearing and weekly change of linen and towels. Rosetta tel. 0635346098, 338 / 3666356.

Short lets Property for sale out of town VILLA DEL SALTO FOR SALE. FOR SALE 300 year old country home in the region of Lazio, bordering Abruzzo, one hour from Rome; half an hour from Rieti. Amidst stunning hills dotted with villages, with an enchanting lake, Lago del Salto, stands a spectacular stone house used back in the day as a local bakery and winery! This extraordinary property has been featured in an Italian architectural magazine. Total floor space of 260 sq. metres comprises two levels. The exquisitely restored first floor features unique original terracotta tiles, a stone fireplace, wooden beams and doors; three fully furnished bedrooms; kitchen/dining area with modern amenities and appliances; two bathrooms, one of which is with a Finnish sauna. A restored antique clay oven is located indoors on the ground floor; a large covered BBQ structure faces the contemplation deck in the garden, shaded with wisteria and vine. A pergola stands on an upper level of the garden adjacent to a fountain covered in ivy. Total land area is approximately one hectare which is ‘edificabile’. The premises have telephone, gas and electricity supplies. The nearby lake attracts swimmers

CAMPO DE’ FIORI - SPAGNA - NAVONA. Pantheon, Trastevere, Prati. Fullyfurnished apartments, 1 week minimum. Many other possibilities. Tel. / fax 0648905897, info@shortletsassistance. com, www.shortletsassistance.com. PANTHEON. Nice studios, period building, new and well decorated, fully equipped kitchen corner, double / triple bedroom, bathroom, A/C or fan, internet, TV. Long-term too. Tel. 348 / 9792106, inroma@libero.it. ROME SWEET HOME - HISTORIC CENTRE. Lets to companies and private individuals. Exclusive locations. Apartments, 1 - 2 - 3 bedrooms, completely furnished, maid service, utilities included, special rates for monthly lets. romesweet-home.com, info@romesweethome.it. Tel. 0669924091 - 335 / 7713580. ROOM TO LET. Room available to quiet person. Central Rome. Rione Monti. Five minutes from Colosseum. Private bathroom. Terrace access. No cooking facilities. No lift. €600 per month. Available from 1st December 2013 for 1,2 or 3 months. Women only. annrees99@yahoo.co.uk.

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Per informazioni: DELEGAZIONE FAI di ROMA Tel. 06 6879376 delegazionefai.roma@fondoambiente.it www.fondoambiente.it

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625 – www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268 – www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161 – malaysiansinitaly@gmail.com Caledonian Society info@caledoniansocietyofrome.org Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group tel. 065413985 – fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490 – www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com – www.irishclubofrome.com

Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3385094448 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628 – unwg@fao.org www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040 – dearprome@tele2.it www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it Herder International Book Center (German) Piazza di Montecitorio 117-120, tel. 066794628 bookcentre@herder.it – www.herder.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598 www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878 www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950 www.libreriaspagnola.it S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sat & Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00 The Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 The Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222 The Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478 www.books-in-italy.com

transport • • • • • •

Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 064157 – 066645 – 064994 Traffic info tel. 1518 Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021 www.trenitalia.it

Wanted in Rome | 4 December 2013

cinemas The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see daily press for programme details. Alcazar Via Merry del Val 14, tel. 065880099 in original language on Mon Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334/1780632 www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Cinema Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 in original language on Mon when available

emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Kids Rock children’s service every 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month at midday Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302 www.anglicancentreinrome.com Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593 www.bbcroma.org. Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474 Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621 – 333 / 2284093 North Rome, tel. 0630894371 akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266 Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Jewish Reform Group in Rome Congregation Lev Chadash, Piazza della Libertà 10 tel. 339 / 3824815, Shabbat services at 10.00, Friday night service once a month Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70 tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314 Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652 – 066876211, Sunday service

10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167 – 068082258 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via del Caravita 7 – www.caravita.org S. Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121 Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 S. Susanna Church (Roman Catholic) Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627 Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359 Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787 Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic) Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546 Sunday service 10.00

support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913 – www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350 – www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580 www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499 – www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30 tel. 0647821098. 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228 – 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children) tel. 0644234511 – masonperkins@gmail.com www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606