4 february 2015 â‚Ź 1,00
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Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 7, Numero 2
contents
no. 02 / wednesday / 4 FEBRUARY 2015 editorials
STRUGGLING WITH BOAT PEOPLE Mary Wilsey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 LAOCOÖN: A STATUE’S STORY Martin Bennett . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 SKIING NEAR ROME Gabrielle Bolzoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
what’s on
EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 music. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 LIVE music. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 FESTIVALS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
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classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 MISCELLANY
MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
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However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine. Direttore responsabile: Franco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Beta Tipografica, Via Casilina Vecchia 119a/b Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 02/02/2015 Susana Talayero Si vola (inbocalupo) 2013 Collage e incisione su carta, 46 x 33 cm. “Intorno a Roma c’è quella cosa spappolata che è Roma.” Pier Paolo Pasolini Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com Next publication dates are 4 March and 1 April. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 25 February (for 4 March) and 25 March (for 1 April).
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Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Early copies: (after 14.00 on the day before official publication): Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49.
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21 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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IMMIGRATION
Mary Wilsey
STRUGGLING WITH BOAT PEOPLE
The men, women and children now crossing the Mediterranean illegally face both a dangerous journey and a difficult landing
L
ondon, 30 Dec 2024. The UK coast guards rescued a drifting boat last night with 900 illegal immigrants on board off the coast of Selsey Bill on the south coast of England. This follows the landing last week further east at Bognor
Regis when 350 people were brought ashore, and the shipwreck off the Channel Islands earlier in the year when over 400 people were drowned. The local police in Selsey are still trying to identify those on board – among them 22 pregnant women and
20 unaccompanied children – most of whom are thought to come from countries torn by civil war in the Baltics or trying to escape the authoritarian regime in Russia. This year some 70,000 immigrants were rescued from boats drifting off the south coast of England.
4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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IMMIGRATION
Children brought ashore from the Blue Sky M in January this year.
This imaginary scenario a decade hence might seem impossibly surreal to a northern European reader. But substitute the names of the English coastal towns with Italian ones and this is what is happening now, all along the southern coast of Italy, in Puglia, Calabria and Sicily. The island of Lampedusa – visited by Pope Francis at the beginning of his pontificate and where 366 boat people were drowned in October 2013 – is no longer the only location struggling with these tragedies. Now illegal immigrants (when did the term “boat people” – now rarely used – transform into “illegal immigrants”?) are landing at previously unheard-of destinations. For example, at the beginning of January the cattle ship Ezadeen disembarked 356 frightened people in Corigliano Calabro, a previously anonymous small town on the Ionian coast about 50 km from Cosenza in Calabria. Add Bari, Brindisi, Gallipoli, Lecce (principal destinations for
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Wanted in Rome | 4 February 2015
those fleeing conflicts in Syria and beyond), Agrigento, Augusta, Ragusa and Siracusa (end of the line for those coming from sub-Saharan destinations and in particular from Eritrea), and this is the measure of what is happening across Italy’s southern coasts. Last year the Italian navy brought over 100,000 people to safety from boats in difficulties, but another 3,419 drowned before reaching land, making the Mediterranean one of the most tragic seaways in the world. Italy’s rescue operations were considered a success but in financial terms (around €9 million a month) the government found them unsustainable. In November 2014, Operation Mare Nostrum was replaced by Triton, a new programme for policing people-smuggling in the Mediterranean, under the command of Frontex, the European border agency. Patrolling the Mediterranean has now been internationalised; in the process, the cost has been slashed to €3 million a month.
Arguments for and against Mare Nostrum and Triton focused on whether rescue (the Mare Nostrum policy) or deterrent (Triton’s brief ) is the better strategy against transporting people illegally across the Mediterranean. But the numbers (1,155 people were disembarked in Italy in four days at the beginning of January*) show that the debate is academic. Desperate people are still coming from desperate places, even at the most treacherous time of year for the journey. These hazardous sea crossings are only part of a long odyssey, just as the sea rescue is only the most dramatic and visible part of what Italy is now having to organise. The processing system set in motion once the terrified human cargo is landed is organised by the ministry of the interior. It involves identification, health controls, security checks, immediate emergency accommodation, provision of clothes and food and then onward transport to holding centres across the country. The ministry now has a well-defined structure of differently graded centres. There are four in the south for those who have just arrived (centri di prima soccorso ed accoglienza, CPSA), at Lampedusa, Elmas (Sardinia), Lecce (Puglia) and Ragusa (Sicily). There are five centres for identification and expulsion (centri di identificazione ed espulsione, CIE), in Turin, Rome, Bari, Trapani and Caltanisetta. There are 14 holding centres for arrivals (centri di accoglienza, CDAs) and asylum seekers (centri di accoglienza e richiedente asilo, CARA), located throughout the country. Ministry figures show that at the end of December 2014 these centres were housing 66,066 people, compared with 22,118 at the beginning of the year. About half of the centres are defined as temporary structures, accommodating 35,499 people at the end of 2014. The majority were housed in Sicily (22 per cent), Lazio (13
IMMIGRATION per cent), Puglia and Campania (9 per cent) and Lombardia (8 per cent). The remainder are located mainly across the north. Alongside the administrative procedures, the judicial process to arrest and prosecute the traffickers is also set in motion once the vessels have docked. This is becoming more complex as the criminals become more skilled. The two landings at the end of December set a new pattern, with no identifiable crew on the drifting boats. Had the pilots jumped ship at some stage, leaving the boats out of control or on auto-pilot, or had they mingled with the passengers to escape detection? The two boats (Blue Sky M and Ezadeen) were at least registered – one in Moldova and the other in Sierra Leone – making some sort of tracking and accountability possible, which is not always the case. As recent crime investigations and
arrests in Rome have indicated, illegal trafficking is now big business. In the crackdown on Rome’s home-grown mafia in December, one of the criminals in the notorious Carminati gang is on record as saying that immigration is now more profitable than the drugs trade. From sea transport to final accommodation, criminals are creaming off fortunes along the way. As the investigations in Rome revealed, contracts for the construction of the much-needed holding centres are just the latest method the criminal networks have found to make money. These camps are also proving centres of attention in even more unpleasant ways. Not only are the physical conditions as temporary as the structures themselves – a sort of no-man’s land that nobody wants – but they are also becoming the focus for anti-immigrant and racist rage. The scenes of hate and anger at Tor
Sapienza, an eastern suburb of Rome, last November were particularly insidious because they were directed at a centre for young unaccompanied children, eventually forcing the transfer of 45 of these young people to other centres for their own safety. Unaccompanied children on migrant boats are a particularly serious problem. Of the 155 people who survived the 2013 Lampedusa disaster, 41 were children without their families. Of the 359 people who came ashore from the Ezadeen in Corigliano Calabro on 3 January, 62 were under-age and 39 were unaccompanied children, five of them girls. Of the 796 people rescued from the Blue Sky M, “about 40” were children; so far it has not been specified how many were unaccompanied. What happens to these children and where do they go? One of the dangers is that bureaucratic and legal procedures can unwittingly make matters for them worse. Brothers and sisters can be separated, not just because of gender but also because of age: those under 17 have a different legal status to those 18 and over, and this can also lead to tragic separations. Religious and United Nations organisations are there to help, but in their desperation to escape bureaucratic entanglement minors are known to lie about their age and background or – even worse – drift off unnoticed, on the beginning of another equally dangerous journey. According to the latest ministry of labour figures, of the 14,000 underage people who have landed illegally in Italy, 3,700 (or 26 per cent) have “disappeared”. Of the 4,628 minors who have landed in Sicily 1,822 (or 39 per cent ) have gone missing. We shall be looking at human trafficking in a future edition. *Since the time of writing at least another 588 people have been brought ashore in Crotone and Reggio Calabria. 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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CULTURE
Martin Bennett
LAOCOÖN: A STATUE’S STORY
How a statue of an ancient Greek mythological figure attracted the attention of Rome’s Renaissance masters and the Vatican
F
or every wonder Rome houses above ground, who knows how many more lurk below. Its soil teems with dormant statues, waiting, like Museo Nazionale’s famous boxer, to see again Dante’s “sweet light of day”. It might take centuries or millennia; suddenly they resurface. So it happened in 1506. In a vineyard on Colle Oppio where Nero once had his palace, up from beneath came not one statue but a stage set in marble. More newsworthy still was that to supervise the excavation was not only Pope Julius II’s architect Sangallo but also his favourite sculptor-turnedpainter Michelangelo. One figure, two figures, a larger than life-sized third, then two snakes rippling fatally between the three: Laocoön, as Pliny the Elder had described the same group after a visit to the house of Titus. Again getting his history dead on, Pliny located the work in the same spot where, eager to erase Nero’s memory, Titus (together with his Flavian father and brother) had rebuilt an imperial palace of their own.
One theory is that the work was created by three sculptors from Rhodes centuries before being shipped to Rome as imperial booty. Another that
it was a copy of a bronze statue from the ancient Greek city of Pergamon. William Blake, for his part, insists that yes, it was a copy – an inferior one at
The 1950s restoration of the ancient sculpture of Laocoön and his sons at the Vatican Museums. 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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CULTURE that – but of a statue from Jerusalem’s Temple, sacked by Titus before he became emperor. In Blake’s own drawing of Laocoön, the poet with typical eccentricity includes a plaque stating that the three figures represented are not Greek at all, but Adam and Satan while in the centre is Jehovah himself. But to get back to 1506: the statue once unearthed, Pope Julius II knew a good garden decoration when he saw it and earmarked the statue for his recently-built Belvedere in the Vatican. The one problem was that Laocoön’s right arm was missing. With Michelangelo’s arch-rival Raphael as one of the judges, the pope ordered a sculpting competition for the miss-
ing limb. Most theorised that the arm would have been outstretched according to heroic convention. Drawing perhaps from his anatomical knowledge, hard won from long nights in S. Spirito’s morgue, Michelangelo begged to differ; he insisted that Laocoön’s arm would have been, if only for anatomical reasons, drawn back. The heroic outstretched arm-transplant won the day. And so for centuries it remained attached in heroic fashion. Then in 1906 an itinerant archaeologist – one Ludwig Pollak – entered art history. Rummaging in a builder’s yard near the Capitoline, he found an arm. Its drawn-back shape was exactly as Michelangelo had not so much
Laocoön with extended arm in an 1815 illustration by British artist William Blake.
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guessed as known. As if those writhing ignavi or musclemen on the Sistine ceiling were not enough, here’s more proof of his flawless anatomical judgement – a twist not of fate but of genius. The arm was sent to the Vatican, only to be stored away for 50 years. Then it was brought out again, dusted off, stuck back on – a perfect fit. If every picture tells a story, so do sculptures. Imagine yourself in Troy. The Greeks have been attacking day in day out for ten years. One dawn the Trojans wake up. There’s no enemy in sight, only this gigantic wooden horse. Peace at last. The Trojans sortie out to investigate. Mostly convinced that the Greeks have gone for good, they start debating about the horse and what to do with it. Someone suggests bringing it into town. In rushes Laocoön, priest of Neptune, Troy’s tutelary god. “O wretched countrymen! what fury reigns? / what more than madness has possessed your brains,” Dryden drops a perfect couplet into his mouth. “Have you forgotten the tricks of Ulysses? Either the horse is a spying device, or else the enemy is hidden inside. Beware of Greeks bearing gifts,” Laocoön warns famously. Alas for them, the Trojans don’t listen. Onto the scene sidles one of literature’s all time villains, Sinon the simulator. A Greek double agent who can lie like truth, he claims refugee-status, begging the Trojans for asylum. Fear not, he assures them. My countrymen have sailed away. It’s peace in our time. I should know. I’m the wretch they chose to sacrifice to secure them a safe journey home. Only, fortunately, I escaped. As for the horse, no worries there either. It’s an offering to Athena, the Greeks’ patron goddess. “But why’s it so big?” objects a Trojan. Up his sleeve Slippery Sinon has the answer: To stop it being hauled into Troy, for once the Trojans do that, the Trojans will become invincible; and Athena will switch her allegiance to the Trojans, al-
CULTURE
Laocoön’s original arm was discovered in 1906 in a builder’s yard near the Capitoline.
lowing them to conquer Greece as the Greeks tried to conquer Troy. As if this were not persuasive enough, up from the sea rear “Two serpents, rank’d abreast.”Trojans scatter, the snakes attack and consume Laocoön’s two sons; then they target Laocoön himself. So Athena, whose offering of the wooden horse Laocoön rejected, is avenged. That’s the standard version. Another is that Laocoön’s offence is less against Athena than against Neptune. Despite being Neptune’s priest, he had angered the sea-god by not being celibate. Worse, at some point he had made sacrilegious love before the altar. Laocoön is justly doomed to die, proclaim the Trojans. From one viewpoint the Laocoön story is tragedy: the just and honest man betrayed by fate. Yet from a Roman viewpoint it’s also cause for celebration. Consider the scenario had events been different. Had the Trojans heeded their priest’s advice, the crafty
Greeks would have been discovered, Troy would not have burnt and Virgil’s mythical Aeneas would not have set sail across the Mediterranean to land in Italy. Without him there would have been no Romulus and Remus, no Rome, no Augustus, no empire, no unearthing of the statue on the Colle Oppio, no standing in the Vatican’s octagonal room admiring what Pliny described as “the statue of statues”. Nor in 1799 would soon-to-be-emperor Napoleon have carted the work off to Paris where, once safely installed in the Louvre, it inspired French neoclassicism. None too soon, given that with Napoleon’s defeat the statue was brought back to Rome. To return to Michelangelo, without Laocoön the first panel of the Sistine Chapel might not have taken the same shape. Look up at God dividing light from darkness. In part the Creator’s tortuous stance in the fresco replicates muscle for muscle the Laocoön
unearthed just years before. Also one cannot ignore an autobiographical element, the posture which Michelangelo up on his scaffold was also forced to adopt for the three years before completing his own work. To quote his sonnet: Drip-drop-drip: Paintbrushes without cease Convert my face to multi-coloured floor. Groin threatens mid-riff with a takeover; Arsy-versy, my rump’s the counterweight. Eyesight battling posture, do I come or go? My skin in front stretches against Nature; Spinal cord has got folded into this knot And draws me like a Syrian his bow.* But for dripping paint, it takes only a skip of imagination to see in the figure portrayed Laocoön’s double. * Translation by Martin Bennett from – Michelangelo Buonarroti, Sonnet V (to Giovanni da Pistoia)(ca. 1509). 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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SPORT
Gabrielle Bolzoni
SKIING NEAR ROME The mountains in central Italy offer skiers in Rome a closer alternative to the Alps
T
here are many skiing resorts within an easy drive of Rome along the Apennines in Lazio and Abruzzo. Each resort offers promotional ski passes, season tickets, ski schools for adults and children, ski clubs, ski hire and reasonable accommodation, as well as several restaurants and chalets located along the slopes. Check the websites for snow conditions.
Campocatino This relatively small ski resort is one of the oldest in the Apennines and is located in the province of Frosinone, about 100 km southeast of Rome. It has 12 km of slopes, located in a karst valley at 1,800 m. It has a chairlift and three ski lifts. The Canalino and the Vermicano slopes are connected
and form a good slope of 1,500 m. www. campocatino.eu. Campo di Giove Campo di Giove is on the western slope of the Majella natural park in Abruzzo, about 170 km from Rome. A chair lift and a ski lift take skiers up to about 1,800 m. Two bars / restaurants are located along the way. The numerous slopes are of different levels: the Serra Campanile is easy and suitable for kids, the Le Capre, Pareti Rosse and Delle Signore are of medium difficulty, while the Porrara is one of the most fascinating and challenging black runs in the Apennines. There are two school camps, served by conveyor lifts, where children are introduced to skiing and snowboarding. There is also a snow park, a snow
playground for young skiers called Kinder Park Giovilandia, and a synthetic ice skating rink open throughout the year. www.comunecampodigiove.it. Campo Felice Campo Felice is in the central Apennines of Abruzzo, located within the SirenteVelino regional natural park, about 113 km from Rome. This ski resort is part of the Tre Nevi area, along with Ovindoli and Campo Imperatore, and is one of the favourite destinations for Romans. It offers 30 km of Alpine skiing of various levels, served by about 10 chair-lifts and several drag lifts for children, which can carry up to 18,000 skiers per hour and guarantee quick access to the slopes. A modern snowmaking system with 250 artificial snow cannons cover over 16 kms. A must for snowboarders is the Swup Snowpark with its new facilities, jumps and breathtaking passages. The Toro and Leono runs have been made longer this year. www.campofelice.it. Campo Imperatore Campo Imperatore was the first ski resort to be developed in the Apennines. It is on the Gran Sasso mountain about 120 km from Rome and at 2,200 m is one of the highest in Italy. A cableway takes
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SPORT has three chair lifts and two ski lifts. www. sciareapescasseroli.it.
skiers from Fonte Cerreto to Campo Imperatore and two chair lifts take them to five panoramic slopes. It offers 15 km of Alpine skiing and 60 km of Nordic skiing. There is also a snow park with half-pipe and boarder cross slopes for snowboarders. www.ilgransasso.it. Campo Staffi Campo Staffi is located in Filettino, 100 km from Rome. Its facilities include two chair lifts, three ski lifts and one manovia, which take skiers to 1,500-2,000 m. A 10-km long path is available for lovers of cross-country skiing. A shuttle service connects Filettino to the nearby villages. www.campostaffi.it. Monte Livata The Alpine skiing areas of Monte Livata, located about 75 km east of Rome, include Campo Minio and Monna dell’Orso. The slopes, which run from Fossa dell’Acero to Campo dell’Osso, are famous for cross-country skiing and are particularly suitable for families. Three drag lifts take skiers to the top of the mountain, from where they can choose an Alpine skiing descent or a snowboarding and tubing track. The traditional cross-skiing circuit goes from Campo dell’Osso to Campaegli. www. livata.it.
country skiing slopes in central Italy are in the Altopiano delle Rocche which connects Ovindoli with Rocca di Mezzo. The Magnola mountain (1,400-2,220 m), offers 30 km of Alpine skiing, served by modern and efficient lifts. The slopes in the Tre Nevi ski area are of all levels and there are some challenging black runs. There is the Magnola upper park (1,980 m) as well as the lower park, located along the Dolce Vita slope (1,650 m). Ovindoli also has a very efficient snowmaking system, which perfect artificial snow even when natural snow is lacking. www.ovindolimagnola.it. Pescasseroli Located in the heart of the Abruzzo national park about 160 km from Rome, this resort offers 20-km of skiing, divided in 14 slopes for all abilities, including two difficult black runs, six red or intermediate slopes and six blue or easy ones for beginners. The 100-km long slope of Alto Sangro crosses the municipalities of Pescasseroli, Pescocostanzo, Aremogna, Pizzalto and Monte Pratello. The resort
Roccaraso Roccaraso, which is about equidistant from Rome and Naples, is one of the major skiing resorts in the Abruzzo. It is the heart of the largest ski area in central Italy, the Alto Sangro area, which includes 160 km of slopes and 36 lifts. Founded in 1910, Roccaraso’s skiing resort still hosts prestigious international competitions. Its numerous slopes include some that are suitable for children. www.roccaraso. net. Terminillo This limestone mountain (2,215 m) is one of the few resorts north of Rome, close to Rieti and about 100 km from the capital. Since it was made fashionable by Mussolini in the 1930s it has been a tourist destination for passionate skiers, and it is still one of the favourite winter resorts for Rome’s skiers. It has one cable car, three chair lifts and a conveyor belt, as well as over 40 km of steep slopes for Alpine skiing and 20 km of perfectly beaten Nordic skiing slopes, which are also illuminated at night. Its variegated flora and fauna make it an ideal place for excursions, nature trails and other sporting activities, such as hiking and mountain races. It has a high-altitude riding school with horse-drawn sleds, and the possibility to rent powerful quads, which offer adventurous excursions on the snowy paths. www. monteterminillo.net.
Ovindoli Ovindoli is located between Rome and L’Aquila in Abruzzo, about 130 km from the capital in the Sirente-Velino regional natural park. Some of the longest cross4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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rome’s major
Museums
For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.
Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.
vatican museums Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican. va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free
entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scene tours in the Vatican Museums.
entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).
state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last
Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30-19.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30-19.30. Mon closed. MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www. galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. Tues-Sun 08.30-19.30. Mon closed. Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832,
Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www. archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini.beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30-19.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www. villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. MonSat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
city museums Centrale Montemartini Art Centre Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00-18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO Via Reggio Emilia 54, tel. 060608, www.macro.roma.museum. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. Via Reggio Emilia 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Future, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions only 16.00-24.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www. museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.00-18.00. Mon closed. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes
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Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For
Keats-Shelley Memorial House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Fri 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00; Sat 11.00-14.00, 15.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
where to go in rome
EXHIBITIONS MARIO DONDERO 19 Dec-22 March Exhibition focusing on four decades of work by contemporary Italian photographer Mario Dondero. Born in Milan in 1928, Dondero is one of Italy’s most important photojournalists. The show features 250 images of people and places divided into four chronological sections and is the most comprehensive retrospective ever dedicated to Dondero. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico De Nicola 79, tel. 0639967700. DANIELE DA VOLTERRA 14 Jan-28 Feb The National Gallery of Ancient Art at Palazzo Barberini dedicates an exhibition to Mannerist artist Daniele Ricciarelli (1509-1566), better known as Daniele da Volterra, tracing his career from his beginnings at the Sienese school to his years in Rome working with Michelangelo. The artist’s work on display is supplemented by pieces by his contemporaries, in the first of a series of exhibitions drawing from works held in storage at Palazzo Barberini. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 0632810, www.galleriabarberini.beniculturali.it. I VESTITI DEI SOGNI 17 Jan-22 March Palazzo Braschi hosts an exhibition dedicated to the excellence of Italian
Costumes by Gabriella Pescucci from The Age of Innocence at I Vestiti dei Sogni.
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Three friends in Limira, Turkey by Mario Dondero at the Terme di Diocleziano.
costumes in cinema, by Oscar-winning designers including Piero Tosi, Danilo Donati, Milena Canonero and Gabriella Pescucci. On show are more than 100 original outfits, dozens of designs and a selection of objects from films by directors such as Vittorio De Sica, Federico Fellini, Sofia Coppola and Paolo Sorrentino. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.
work is concerned with personal identity, interpersonal communication, sexuality, and the complex levels of relationships in modern urban life. His exhibition at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill comprises new work created over the past year in London and Rome, including paintings, sculpture, a live performance and a sound work. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
EDDIE PEAKE 20 Jan-27 March Eddie Peake is a young British painter, sculptor and performance artist whose
MILENA MELLER: VICINO/LONTANO 21 Jan-15 March Exhibition by contemporary Austrian artist Milena Meller whose work merges painting and photography. On show is a collection of reworked and painted photographs of images taken by the artist in Rome and in her native Austria. Meller’s work is not concerned exclusively with reworking photographs but rather developing a dialogue between painting and photography. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1b, tel. 060608, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.
Untitled by Eddie Peake at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.
L’ETA’ DELL’ANGOSCIA 27 Jan-4 Oct The Age of Anguish: Commodus to Diocletian (192-305 AD) illustrates the monumental changes that marked the era between the reign of Roman emperors Commodus (180-192 AD) and Diocletian (284-305 AD). The exhibition is the fourth part of the Giorni di Roma series, the capital’s five-year project of exhibitions highlighting Roman history from the republican era until late antiquity. Palazzo Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org.
LOOKING AHEAD CLAUDIO PALMIERI: NATURAL-MENTE 10 Feb-6 April Exhibition by Rome artist Claudio Palmieri in which he considers whether it is still possible in the 21st-century to enjoy fully the beauty of nature, or if modern technology is making life increasingly artificial. On show is a range of the artist’s works, from 1985 until the present day. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it. STANZE, REINVENTING RENAISSANCE ROOMS 17 Feb-5 March Three prominent contemporary urban artists fuse the past with the present by reinventing the Renaissance interior of Palazzo Caproni, seat of Rome’s Temple University Gallery. The names of the three female artists, Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone and Pax Paloscia, are readily associated with Italy’s street art scene, whose modern edge they now juxtapose with historic tradition. The exhibition sees each artist assigned a room and a specific theme: Pasquini interprets the origins of modern collecting, Pistone examines the concepts of power and influence, while Paloscia incorporates elements of traditional portraiture alongside works that evoke memory. Temple University Rome, Lun-
Formazione by Claudio Palmieri at Museo Carlo Bilotti.
gotevere Arnaldo da Brescia 15, tel. 0632002808. GIORGIO MORANDI 1890-1964 27 Feb-21 June Important retrospective dedicated to the career of Italian painter and printmaker Giorgio Morandi (1890-1964). The show contains about 150 works including 100 canvases, as well as watercolours, drawings and etchings by Morandi, who specialised in the still life genre and was influenced by artists as diverse as Giotto and Cézanne. The ex-
hibition examines Morandi’s principal themes, from still life to landscape, and is curated by Maria Cristina Bandera. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 066780664. MATISSE: ARABESQUE 4 March-21 June The profound influence of arabesque decorative motifs in the work of Henri Matisse (1869-1954) is explored in this major exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale. Eastern and oriental designs brought about a radical change in the paintings and drawings of the French artist who developed a bold new spatial awareness and embraced the use of flat, vibrant colours and shapes. The exhibition features around 100 paintings, drawings and theatre costumes. The exhibited works include loans from some of the most important museums in Europe, Russia and the US. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. STILL SHOWING ESCHER 20 Sept-22 Feb The exhibition includes more than 130 drawings and graphic artworks by Maurits Cornelius Escher (1898-1972), who is best known for his mathematically-inspired woodcuts, lithographs and mezzotints. His work features stunning designs that explore the seemingly impossible limits of architecture and infinity, often confounding the viewer. Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Arcidosso by Gio Pistone who exhibits at Stanze, Reinventing Renaissance Rooms.
ROBERT BROWNING: REPORTING FROM ROME 22 Sept-28 Feb The exhibition examines the time 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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in 1846. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keatsshelley-house.org. KEYS TO ROME 23 Sept-10 May The 2,000th anniversary of the death of Roman emperor Augustus is marked by an exhibition at Trajan’s Markets, held in parallel with museums in Amsterdam, Alexandria and Sarajevo. Trajan’s Markets, Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. ARTISTI DELL’OTTOCENTO TEMI E RISCOPERTE 7 Nov-14 June This exhibition examines Italian art of the 19th century, focusing on themes relevant to the figurative movement in Italy in the 19th century, including the portrait and scenes from daily life. Some of the better known artists included are Nino Costa, Giulio Aristide Sartorio and Angelo Morbelli. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it. The Moorish Screen is among works by Henri Matisse at the Scuderie del Quirinale.
spent in Italy by celebrated English poet and playwright Robert Browning (1812-1889), and Italy’s influence on his work. Central to the show is a collection of the Victorian poet’s letters to American sculptor William Story, as well as a series of portraits and artefacts. An exhibition highlight is an 18th-century engagement ring that Browning gave to English poet Elizabeth Barrett (18061861), who moved to Italy as his wife
CYRIL DE COMMARQUE: FRONTIERS 27 Nov-15 March First solo exhibition in Italy by the French artist Cyril de Commarque. The artist explores the notion of frontiers in emotional, cultural and social terms, covering themes such as border disputes, boundary changes, legal and illegal migration, war, reconciliation and peace. The exhibition features a series of aluminium and brass sculptures that represent contentious borders in Israel, Germany, Russia, Turkey and Austria. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani, tel. 0639914851, www.museomacro.org.
Austrian artist Milena Meller merges painting and photography at the Museo di Roma in Trastevere. (See page 14).
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BELLISSIMA: ITALY AND HIGH FASHION 1945-1968 2 Dec-3 May The Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo (MAXXI) recalls the enormous success of Italian high fashion in the post-war era and how the “made in Italy” brand helped to define Italian identity in the eyes of the world. The exhibition includes photos of designs by leading Italian courtiers such as Balestra, Biki, Capucci, Fendi, Ferragamo, Galitzine, Pucci, Valentino, Schuberth and Sorelle Fontana. Also on display are accessories such as hats, shoes, handbags and luxury jewellery by Bulgari alongside works by artists such as Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri and Lucio Fontana. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4/a, tel. 0639967350, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. FOTOGRAFIE DI ROMA DAL 1986 AL 2006 29 Oct-8 March This exhibition consists of 77 photographs from the Photographic Archive of the Museo di Roma. The photographs by Basilico, Bossaglia, Chiaramonte, Cresci, Ghirri, Guidi and Koch, were shown in the exhibition “Rome: The historic Rioni in the images of seven photographers in 1990”, with the addition of nine photographs taken by Gianni Berengo Gardin in 1986, and seven by Andrea Jemolo shown in the 2006 exhibition “Architecture in Rome today”. The images portray Rome in its most iconic sites as well as its minor and everyday aspects, and document some of the changes the city underwent over two decades (as shown for instance in Ghirri’s image of the Ara Pacis in its 1930s’ setting, and then in Jemolo’s image of the Richard Meier building). Another interesting aspect of the exhibition is that it illustrates the shift from documentary photography rooted in photojournalism, represented by the images of Koch and Bossaglia, where people and street life is often the focus of attention, to the new Italian landscape photography of the 1980s, spearheaded by Luigi Ghirri alongside practitioners such as Guidi, Basilico, Chiaramonte, and its legacy in the work of Jemolo, where place in its own right takes centre stage; the works of Berengo Gardin and Cresci act as a transition between the two approaches. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza S. Pantaleo 10, www. museodiroma.it. Jacopo Benci
BEVERLY PEPPER ALL’ARA PACIS 4 Dec-15 March For the first time the Ara Pacis hosts giant contemporary sculpture, both inside and outside the museum, by New York artist Beverly Pepper. The installation includes four monumental pieces made from steel and measuring up to five metres in height, placed around the outside of the museum. Inside there are also several iron and stone sculptures from her Curvae in Curvae series. It is the first major sculpture exhibition in Rome for the 92-year-old artist whose works belong in the collections of some of the world’s most important art museums. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. UNEDITED HISTORY: IRAN 1960-2014 11 Dec-29 March More than 20 artists and 200 works give an insight into Iran through its art from 1960 to the present, including pivotal moments in the country’s history such as the 1979 revolution and the war with Iraq in the 1980s. The exhibition features the work of prominent contemporary Iranian figures from the field of visual arts and film. MAXXI, Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. RIVOLUZIONE AUGUSTO L’IMPERATORE CHE RISCRISSE IL TEMPO E LA CITTÀ 16 Dec-2 June This exhibition concludes Rome’s celebrations of the 2,000th anniversary of the death of Augustus. The Palazzo Massimo highlights the social effect on Rome as a result of the modifications made to the Julian calendar, which lasted until it was superseded by the Gregorian calendar in 1582. The museum draws on its important collection of Augustus-related sculpture. Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo, Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 063996770, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. LA ROMA DI ETTORE ROESLER FRANZ 17 Dec-18 June With the grandiose subtitle “Between fascination for the picturesque and photographic memory”, this exhibition pays homage to the painter Ettore Roesler Franz (1845-1907) who is best known for capturing Rome in the late 19th century. On show are 40 paintings by the master watercolourist as well as 48 vintage photographs of the capital. There is also a touchscreen display of the artist’s Rome series with interactive map from that era. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1, tel.
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065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it. ZERO 18 Dec-22 March A multisensory exhibition charts the life of Roman singer and actor Renato Zero whose career spans six decades. This is the first major retrospective of the popular star who has sold more than 40 million records. On show are documents, photographs, music, costumes and memorabilia to celebrating Zero’s colourful world. MACRO La Pelanda, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani, tel. 0639914851, www.museomacro.org.
MUSIC We carry a short list of the concerts in Rome. For details of performances organised by the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. Romatrerorchetra, www.r3o.org. Università Tor Vergata Associazione
Roma Sinfonietta, Ennio Morricone auditorium, Tor Vergata, www.romasinfonietta.com. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA TRIO LATITUDE 41 12 Feb Violinist Livia Sohn, cellist Luigi Piovano and pianist Bernadene Blaha formed Latitude 41 in 2009 but the three also have careers as soloists. After three concerts in Italy they tour Spain and then the US. Music by Schubert, Ferrero and Saint-Saëns. Teatro Argentina. QUARTETTO EBÈNE 19 Feb The French string quartet was described by the New York Times as “a string quartet that can easily morph into a jazz band”. In Rome they perform a strictly traditional repertoire of music by Haydn, Dutilleux and Brahms. Teatro Argentina. ROMA IN JAZZ 26 Feb The New Roman Jazz orchestra plays music to celebrate the Roman New Orleans Jazz band which dominated the Rome jazz scene in the 1950s. Sala Casella. PINNOCK TRIO 5 March Trevor Pinnock (harpsichord), Matthew Truscott (violin) and Jonathan Manson (viola da gamba) play music by Buxtehude, Froberger, Baacj Leclair, Rameau and Telemann. Teatro Argentina. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA 7-10 Feb Violinist Joshua Bell plays Bruch’s Scottish Fantasy inspired by Scottish folk
Trio Latitude 41 at Teatro Argentina for Accademia Filarmonica Romana.
melodies. The programme, conducted by Marc Albrecht, includes Wagner’s Flying Dutchman and Schumann’s symphony no 2. The romantic tale of Bell’s priceless 300-year old Stradivarious is told in the documentary Return of the Violin by Haim Hecht. 13 Feb Pianist Yuja Wang captivates S. Cecilia audiences once again with music by Schubert, Chopin, Scriabin and Balakirev. 18 Feb The Canadian colatura mezzosoprano Marie-Nicole Lemieux with Roger Vignoles piano in a programme of 19thand early 20th-century music. Later this year Lemieux will be singing at La Scala in Verdi’s Falstaff. 21-24 Feb Janine Jansen plays Brahms violin concerto conducted by Antonio Pappano. The programme also includes music by Malipiero (in line with Pappano’s exploration of 20th-century Italian music) and Schumman. 27 Feb Anja Harteros and Jonas Kaufmann sing in Verdi’s Aida in concert form conducted by Antonio Pappano. People have been queuing for tickets to hear these two stars of opera since October so there is unlikely to be seats available. 28 Feb A recital by Mikhail Pletnev playing Beethoven’s sonatas 10 and 17 (The Tempest). Pletnev will also play Scriabin preludes to mark the centenary of his death. ISTITUZIONE UNVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI FAZIL SAY 7 Feb Turkish pianist and composer plays
Joshua Bell plays at the Auditorium Parco della Musica for S. Cecilia 7-10 Feb.
two Mozart sonatas and three of his own compositions, Gezi Park (a series of three works composed during and after the Gezi park protests is being played for the first time in Italy), Nietzsche and Wagner, and Three Ballads. In 2013 Say was given a 10-month suspended sentence by an Istanbul court for offending Islam on Twitter. He denies all charges but is openly critical of the Turkish government, in particular its cultural and social policies. JULIAN JIA 21 Feb A concert by the winner of the 2014 Casagrande prize plays music by Mozart, Schubert, Chopin, Ravel and Liszt. 23-year old Jia was defined by one reviewer as the Chinese albatross, awkward when on dry land but majestic and imposing when he takes to the air, or in this case the piano. The sec-
ond prize in the competition, set up by the Casagrande family on the death of their son Alessandro, a composer and pianist, went to another young Chinese pianist, Yuan Jie. The Alessandro Casagrande competition is in its 30th edition. RACHEL KOLLY D’ALBA 28 Feb Swiss violinist makes her debut in Rome with music by Lkeu, Ysaye, Franck and Ravel. Her performance, with pianist Christian Chamore, of the Franck sonato has been described as remarkable. ORATORIO DEL GONFALONE LINCOLN ALMADA 19 Feb A concert of traditional South American music by the Paraguayan harpist Lincoln Almada. Tradition has it that the European harp was re-invented by the Jesuit missionaries, in particular by the Austrian Father Sep von Reineggp, in the 17th century when he arrived in Paraguay. The Paraguayan harp is now a national emblem. HELLO MR BACH 26 Feb An evening dedicated entirely to music by JS Bach with Concezio Panone at the organ and Luca Cola double bass.
Julian Jia, the winner of the 2014 Casagrande competition, plays at the Istituzione dei Concerti on 21 Feb.
GIORGIO ALBIANI 5 March The guitarist Giorgio Albiani plays classical and modern music, with the first performance of a composition by Italian guitarist and composer Carlo Domeniconi. 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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A SUA MAESTÀ MARIA TERESA 12 March The Gonfalone ensemble and chamber orchestra play Beethoven’s septet for wind and strings, first performed in 1802 and dedicated to Empress Maria Theresa of Austria. It has six movements and was scored for clarinet, horn, bassoon, violin, viola, cello and double bass. It was so popular at the time that Beethoven also arranged it for a trio. In the 20th century conductor Toscanini rearranged the string section so that it could be played by the full orchestra.
LIVE MUSIC ALAN PARSONS LIVE PROJECT 28 March A modern version of the Alan Parsons Project, a British progressive rock band active between 1975 and 1990, fronted orginally by Eric Woolfson and Alan Parsons. Since 1993 the new reincarnation of the band features Parsons performing live acoustic guitar, keyboards and vocals, with various line-ups. The band is best known for songs including Time, Don’t Answer Me, Prime Time and the hugely successful 1982 hit Eye in the Sky. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via Della Conciliazione 4, tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. SPANDAU BALLET 30 March Influential 1980s band Spandau Ballet performs at the Palalottomatica as part of a major world tour. The English group is synonymous with the New Romantic movement and scored massive hits with tracks such as True and Gold, as well as scoring eight UK Top 10 albums. Palalottomatica, Piazzale
Pier Luigi Nervi 1, tel. 06540901, www. palalottomatica.it.
festivals EQUILIBRIO: FESTIVAL DELLA NUOVA DANZA 7 Feb-2 April The annual festival is designed to discover new and talented international contemporary dancers and choreographers in a programme that spans the world of theatre and dance. Now in its 11th edition the festival is once again directed by Belgium’s Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui. Among the highlights of this year’s event is South African company Via Katlehong Dance with Katlehong Cabaret (8-9 Feb), in which artists sing and dance about community pride. On stage in Italy for the first time is John (13-14 Feb), the latest Verbatim dance-theatre piece by Australia’s Lloyd Newson and his DV8 Physical Theatre collective. The piece, described by organisers as emotional and moving, is centred around those on the margins of society, such as drug addicts and criminals. Luca Silvestrini and his company Protein dance present LOL (20-21 Feb), a wry look at the difficulty of relationships in the internet age. Winner of the British Dance Award 2011, the show combines black humour with physical energy and theatricality. Also worth checking out is Yama (23 Feb), the new show by French-Belgian choreographer Damien Jalet, inspired by his encounter with mountain-worshipping monks during a recent visit to Tohoku in Japan. This year the festival ends with a very special event on 2 April: Life in progress by French ballet dancer Sylvie
Guillem, in her last performance. Guillem’s swansong will unite the work of three major contemporary choreographers Akram Khan, Russel Maliphant and Mats Ek. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 0680241281, www.auditorium.com. VI RACCONTO UN ROMANZO 17 Nov-25 May Literature festival dedicated to eight classics by great South American writers of the 20th century. The evenings last about an hour each, beginning with a brief biographical introduction of the author, and feature well-known Italian actors reading passages from the selected texts. Upcoming events include Omero Antonutti reading from On Heroes and Tombs (Sobre héroes y tumbas) by Argentine writer Ernesto Sabato (16 March). In Italian. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 0680241281, www.auditorium.com.
DANCE EQUILIBRIO NUOVA DANZA 7 Feb – 2 April As well as the numerous top-level dance performances (see Festivals) there is also an important competition in which ten finalists are selected to present ten works to a jury. The winning project is awarded €12,500 for its development into a full-scale performance the following year. The winning soloist is awarded €7,500 to commission a choreographer to create a solo work, also for the following year. Last year’s finalists who return this year with their developed works are Manfredi Perego with Grafiche and the soloist Irene Russolillo. Auditorium Parco della Musica. See also Gloria Campaner and Gotra Ballet on page 21. IL LAGO DEI CIGNI ovvero IL CANTO 6-8 March This new choreography by Fabrizio Monteverdi is as revolutionary in its own way as Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake. A cast of 14 ageing dancers are the protagonists, living out their memories as they organise their last performance of Swan Lake, hoping for a happy ending. This is Monteverdi’s fifth choreography for the Balletto di Roma. Teatro Brancaccio, wwwteatrobrancaccio.it.
1980s British band Spandau Ballet performs at the Palottomatica.
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FIESTA ARGENTINA 10-22 March Samba, tango, malambo and zapatea-
The Parsons Dance company in Caught at Teatro Brancaccio.
do in a festival of Argentinian dance led by Nestor Pastorive. The dances take place along the banks of an imaginary river, telling the story of the places and people along its course. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www. teatroolimpico.it. LINDSAY KEMP KEMP DANCES 13 March Inventions and Reincarnations is the new title of Lindsay Kemp’s latest performance in Rome. It is a mosaic of old favourites and new ideas. Four dancers perform four works, The Devil in a short rendering of L’Histoire du Soldat, Ricordi di una Traviata, a mystic work about Nijinski and L’Angelo, about death and transfiguration. The dancers are Daniela Maccario, David Haughton, Luciano Guerra and James Vanzo. Teatro Brancaccio, wwwteatrobrancaccio.it. PARSONS DANCE 20-22 March The New-York based company returns
Sylvie Guillem gives her final performance at Equilibrio Festival della nuova danza.
to Rome to perform Caught and a series of its other works. Over 20 of the choreographies in its repertory are original scores. Caught, defined as a choreography and lighting concept, is one of the company’s first works. A solo dancer performs 100 rapid leaps and, thanks to the lighting, he appears caught in flight. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.
tra Ballet, in the premiere of this work, which has been commissioned by the Accademia Filarmonica Romana. Teatro Olimpico.
GLORIA CAMPANER GOTRA BALLET 31 March As part of Equilibrio, Festival della Nuova Danza, pianist Gloria Campaner performs with dancer and choreographer Joost Vrouenraets, founder of the Go-
THE CORONATION OF POPPEA BY CLAUDIO MONTEVERDI 1-27 Feb Director Robert Wilson completes the third in the Monteverdi trilogy after Orpheus (2009) and The Return of Ulysses
OPERA MILAN
Moneverdi’s Coronation of Poppea directed by Robert Wilson at Teatro la Scala. 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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to His Homeland (2011). This production was staged at the Paris Opera in June 2014. Rinaldo Alessandrini who conducted in Paris also conducts in Milan but in Milan the part of Nerone is sung by Leonardo Cortellazzi and Poppea by the Swedish soprano Miah Persson whose husband Jeremy Ovenden sung the part of Nerone in Paris. Teatro alla Scala, www.teatroallascala.org. AIDA BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 15 Feb-15 March This is a new production and director Peter Stein has promised what La Scala calls an “intimate Aida”. The Stein version will inevitably be compared with the two Zeffirelli productions, one in 1963 and the other in 2006, which was sold last year to the new opera theatre in Astana, Kazakhstan, much to Zeffirelli’s annoyance. Zubin Metha conducts Verdi soprano Kristin Lewis as Aida, Carlo Colombara as the King and Anita Rachvelishvili, who is at present singing Carmen at the Met, as Amneris. Teatro alla Scala, www.teatroallascala.org.
ROME
RIGOLETTO BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 4-8 Feb This old favourite, which was seen only last October, returns to the stage. This time it is conducted by Gaetano d’Espinosa instead of Renato Palumbo and with a completely different cast. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, www.operaroma.it. TOSCA BY GIACOMO PUCCINI 1-12 March This is a new production based on some of the sketches from the January 1900 premiere in Rome. It is conducted by Donato Renzetti and directed by South Africa’s Alessandro Talevi. This is Talevi’s first Tosca. He directed Prokofiev’s Love of Three Oranges for Maggio Musicale last year and two of Donizetti’s Tudor Trilogy (Anna Bolena and Robert Devereux) for the Welsh National Opera in autumn 2013, another tough assignment. The members of the cast have a long experience of Tosca behind them. The title role is taken by Ukrainian Oksana Dyka (who sang Tosca at the Paris Opera last autumn), Russian Titiana Serjan (straight from Tosca in Chicago and St Petersburg) and Italian Raffaella Angeletti (who sang the part at the Caracalla festival production last summer). Cavaradossi is sung by two Korean tenors Yonghoom Lee (who then goes on to sing Don Carlos at the Met) and Alfred Kim (who sang the role last summer at the Caracalla festival). Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, www.operaroma.it.
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Wanted in Rome | 4 February 2015
OPERA NOTES Aida will be performed twice in Italy during February; in Milan at Teatro alla Scala and in Rome in concert form at the Parco della Musica as part of the symphonic season of the S. Cecilia. (See Music). It is often erroneously thought that Aida, which was composed in 1871, was first staged in Cairo to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal and was commissioned for the opening of the city’s opera house. However it was first performed in Cairo after both events, on 24 December 1871. Another misconception is that Aida should always be performed in the open. However it does not lend itself to this sort of spectacular staging, partly because few characters are involved in the plot and also because most of the action takes place in confined places such as temples, prison and tombs. It will therefore be interesting to see it performed in the closed spaces of an opera theatre and a concert hall. Nel mese di febbraio in Italia ci saranno ben due produzioni di Aida di Giuseppe Verdi. Si inizia con il Teatro alla Scala di Milano con sette recite dal 15 febbraio al 15 marzo. Sarà un nuovo allestimento curato dal regista Peter Stein e concertato da Zubin Mehta, il direttore musicale del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, che torna all’opera nel teatro milanese dopo il Tannhäuser di Wagner del 2010. Generosamente sostituisce Lorin Maazel recentemente scomparso. Indosseranno gli abiti dei personaggi principali Kristin Lewis (Aida), Anita Rachvelishvili (Amneris) e Fabio Sartori (Radames). La seconda Aida sarà a Roma nell’Auditorium Parco della Musica, con le voci di Anja Harteros, Ekaterina Semenchuk e Jonas Kaufmann, il tenore divo del momento applauditissimo ogni volta che si esibisce. Sul podio sir Antonio Pappano, il direttore musicale dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia. Questa Aida è nel cartellone della Stagione Sinfonica dell’Accademia, sarà eseguita per la sola sera del 27 febbraio e costituirà la base per un’incisione discografica. Aida fu composta nel 1871 e doveva essere l’addio di Verdi all’opera lirica, in realtà seguirono Otello sedici anni dopo e nel 1883 Falstaff, questa sì l’ultima commedia lirica. S’è sempre detto che fu scritta per festeggiare l’apertura del Canale di Suez, come fu anche detto che venne commissionata per inaugurare il Teatro dell’Opera del Cairo. In verità Aida ebbe la sua prima rappresentazione nella capitale egiziana il 24 dicembre 1871, due anni dopo la realizzazione del Canale e del Teatro avvenute soltanto nel 1869, e in ritardo d’un anno sulla data prevista per colpa della guerra franco-prussiana. Altro “equivoco” che grava su Aida è che solitamente viene messa in scena nei grandi spazi all’aperto, tipo l’Arena di Verona, per dare la più grande visibilità alla grandiosa scena del trionfo degli Egiziani sugli Etiopi. Ma Aida non si presta a questa spettacolarizzazione ed esagerazione perché l’azione è fatta da pochi personaggi, si svolge in prevalenza in templi, prigioni e tombe, e avviene per lo più di notte in luoghi oscuri e segreti. Ben vengano quindi le esecuzioni di Aida in ambienti chiusi e raccolti come teatri e sale da concerto, così che si possano percepire tutte le sfumature di un canto sommesso e le tantissime sottigliezze e preziosità orchestrali, che all’aperto altrimenti sfuggirebbero. Paolo Di Nicola
VENICE
LA TRAVIATA BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 13 Feb-29 March Conducted by Omer Weir Wellber and directed by Robert Carsen. It is part of the Expo 2015 project and will return to the Fenice at the end of April, conducted by Gaetano d’ Espinosa. The cast is still not certain. Teatro La Fenice, www. teatrolafenice.it.
theatre LE VOCI DI DENTRO 20 Jan-15 Feb Directed by and starring Toni Servillo,
with Peppe Servillo. The two brothers and popular entertainers interpret Inner Voices written by Eduardo De Filippo in 1948. De Filippo’s post-war play portrayed a sharp decline in human values, one that would characterise society for decades to come. In Italian. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000311, www. teatrodiroma.net. TEATRO INDIA 3-15 Feb Teatro India continues its series of modern versions of Shakespeare’s classics with Hamlet Travestie (3-8 Feb) written by 19th-century English playwright John Poole and performed as a burlesque parody of the Shakespearean tragedy. In Polvere (10-15 Feb) Saverio
tween England, Japan and Italy. Oneday workshop organised by Natalia Petrovskaia (Utrecht) and Lucy Underwood (BSR). Hosted at the BSR and the nearby Istituto Giapponese di Cultura in Roma. 09.00–19.00. 26 Feb The Fabric of Life: Approaches to Textile Resources, Economy and Production in Ancient Italy. One-day workshop held at the BSR and neighbouring Villa Giulia. 09.00–19.30. For full details of all events see website. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr. ac.uk.
formances begin at 21.00 (both nights). American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065852151, www. aarome.org.
JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 2 Feb-6 March The Japanese Cultural Institute presents a series of new aquisitions from its film library including a special dedication to the recently deceased Japanese actor Ken Takakura (1931-2014), with the screening of The yellow handkerchief of happiness and The Station. All screenings at 17.00 and 19.30, for full programme of films see website. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www. jfroma.it.
BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 11 Feb Screenings of Superstudio films Supersurface – Life (1972) and Ceremony (1973), followed by a conversation with Piero Frassinelli of Superstudio. Event organised by Jacopo Benci (BSR). 18.00–19.30. 17 Feb A Clockwork Jerusalem: architecture, politics, riots and the belief in a better world, lecture by Wouter Vanstiphout as part of the Meeting Architecture: Architecture and the Creative Process programme. Held in collaboration with the Dutch embassy to Italy. 18.00– 19.30. 20 Feb Contacts and Representations be-
SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME Until 20 June Works from the collection of the longestablished Swiss financial institution BSI are on display at Villa Maraini, home of the Swiss Institute in Rome. The works include pieces by important international artists such as British sculptor Tony Cragg, Italian painter and sculptor Fausto Melotti, and American sculptor John Chamberlain. As part of the installation, designs by Zurich architects Daniel Bosshard and Meritxell Vaquer, winners of the competition for the renovation of the villa, are displayed alongside some of the books from the institute’s library. Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Villa Maraini, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www.istitutosvizzero.it.
Toni and Peppe Servillo in Le Voci di Dentro at Teatro Argentina.
La Ruina examines the verbal and psychological abuse suffered by women at the hands of manipulative, cowardly men, who control and bully their victims with humiliation, insults and threats, slowly enveloping the woman in a dreadful “dust” (polvere) that suffocates her self-esteem, destroys her courage, crushes her happiness. In Italian. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000311/14, www. teatrodiroma.net.
academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 29 Jan-1 March Multi-faceted exhibition entitled Milk Revolution comprises work by current AAR Prize Fellows and a selection of invited international artists from several disciplines, including collaborative projects installed in various sites throughout the McKim, Mead & White building. Through diverse gestures and objects, the exhibition examines the “alchemical reactions” of different art works in response to various spaces. 6-7 Feb The acclaimed Scharoun Ensemble of the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra offers two concerts at the academy’s Villa Aurelia building, concluding its week-long residency. The repertoire performed by the ensemble will be both classical and contemporary, and seats are available on a first-come, firstserved basis. Guests are requested to be seated 15 minutes before the per-
Films starring actor Ken Takakura at the Japanese Cultural Institute. 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town
APARTMENT INSIDE THE CASALE BRAVETTA. Furnished apartment for single / couple close to Monteverde / Villa Pamphili, garden, parking, kitchen, living room, bathroom, bedroom on loft. Long term €800 / month. Tel 348 5830220 a.stefani@ artisticom.it. APARTMENT P.ZZA DEL POPOLO. Attic apartment, in the heart of Rome, but reachable by car, in a prestigious XIX century building. Spectacular view, full of light. 95 sqm, two levels: two rooms, kitchen, two bathrooms, superb living-room with 5 m ceilings and designer fireplace. Fully furnished, also available empty. Call office hrs: 349-5674060. APPIA ANTICA - ARDEATINA. Appia Antica, Ardeatina, country houses within exclusive properties, Tuscan landscape, 3/4bedrooms. €1.500 to €2.200. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@ virgilio.it. APPIO LATINO CAFFARELLA PARK. Via Macedonia - Fully furnished, modern and renovated 100sqm flat, 2 kms from FAO. Well serviced by bus and metro. Spacious hall, large sitting / dining room, 2 large bedrooms, fully equipped kitchen, bathroom and loft for storage. Available immediately for long let. €950 monthly. Classe energetica: F Prest. Energ. Glob.: 82,5 kWh/m^2 anno Tel. 3491261170 or via_macedonia@ outlook.com. AURELIA. In lovely compound,
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beautiful villa 400 sqm, 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, vast living room, dining room, furnished kitchen, maid’s quarters, washing-room, ample garage, 1.200 sqm garden. €3.000. Tel. 068610871. imm.edwards@gmail. com. AVENTINO / CIRCO MASSIMO. Ideal FAO/WFP studio in Aventino / Circo Massimo area. Furnished, equipped one room, kitchenette, bathroom, storeroom. Wi-Fi, Sat TV. roakay@ yahoo.it, tel. 335 / 7016049. CASSIA (NEAR AOSR). In compound, elegant 200 sqm apartment, ample balconies with lovely view, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, livingdiningroom, furnished kitchen, maid’s quarters, car-port. Rent: €1.900. Tel. 068610871. imm.edwards@gmail. com. CENTRAL PARIOLI. 1 Bed, well furnished, safe and quiet, in the embassy neighbourhood along Villa Borghese park. Near Luiss and Sapienza. American owner. €1.000. mustacx@yahoo.it. CENTRO - S. SABA. 240 sqm remodeled near FAO - Terrace, balconies, triple living room, eat-in kitchen, breakfast room, study / bedroom, 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, €3.800 - Immobiliare Zanni Real Estate Agency 3474009753 - http:// www.immobiliare.it/agenzie_immobiliari/Zanni_Roma.html. CRISTOFORO COLOMBO. Vicinity 15 minutes’ drive to FAO. Elegantly furnished 160 sqm apartment 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living-diningroom, ample balcony, kitchen, garagebox, storage-room. Rent: €1.700.
Tel.068610871. imm.edwards@gmail. com. EUR - PIRENEI. Bright 4th floor 160 sqm living room, eat-in kitchen, 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, maid’s room, balconies, parking €2.000 Immobiliare Zanni Real Estate Agency. 347 4009753 http://www.immobiliare.it/ agenzie_immobiliari/Zanni_Roma. html. EUR CENTRO. Viale della Tecnica Terrace, 2 balconies, double living room, eat-in kitchen, 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, built-in wardrobes, security €2.000 - Immobiliare Zanni Real Estate Agency 3474009753 http:// www.immobiliare.it/agenzie_immobiliari/Zanni_Roma.html. HEART OF TRASTEVERE. 100 m from Piazza S. Maria, living room, bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, balcony. “Travi a vista” ceiling, cotto, floor, fire place, TV set, Wi-Fi, washing machine, air conditioning etc… completely furnished. Free from 15/01/2015. €1.200 monthly, included condominium and internet. Heating, electricity, A.M.A. (garbage Tax) not included. Tel. 335 / 6090827 sylcouppe@hotmail.it. LARGE APT FOR RENT NEAR COLOSSEUM. 190 mq apartment for rent in Colle Oppio, Via Poliziano. 4th floor, 1920s building, elevator. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, study, dining room, living room, equipped eat-in kitchen, 4 balconies. Autonomous heating. Close to metro lines. Available immediately. €2.750/month, includes condominium fee. Contact Silvia at 340 917 9109 or silviadelguercio@gmail.com.
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tina very quiet apartment, 2 floors, 250 sqm amazing private garden, double living room, liveable kitchen, 3 bed-rooms, 3 bath-rooms, 2 terraces, car box, fully furnished, air-conditioning, very well connected, elenabarcaioli@gmail.com.
MANZONI AREA. Furnished flat for single person, €500 monthly plus expenses. Minimum 6 months. Apply at dellascala4@gmail.com. Available from 1 Feb. MONTEVERDE - PAMPHILI. Monteverde / Pamphili, quiet, elegant, quiet, elegant, livingroom, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, balcony. €1.500. Villa Borghese park, livingroom, 2 bedrooms, unfurnished. €1.400. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it. MONTEVERDE. Monteverde, modern, new, well equipped, 2 bedroom apartment, lovely outdoor space. Air-conditioned. €1.200. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it. MONTEVERDE. 150 sqm, compound with swimming pool, balconies, semi-furnished, large living room with fireplace, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, maid’s quarters, furnished kitchen, parking, doorman. €2.000-neg. Property International Rome Services. Tel. 065743170, rome@propertyint.net. MONTI PARIOLI. Prestigious 240 sqm apartment, 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, terrace, vast living-room, fireplace, dining-room, furnished kitchen, breakfast room, ample builtin closet, small maid’s quarters, large box. €4.000. Tel. 068610871. imm. edwards@gmail.com. NEAR METRO LAURENTINA WITH GARDEN. 800 m to metro Lauren-
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Wanted in Rome | 4 February 2015
NUOVO SALARIO - EXCELLENT AND ELEGANT. Nuovo Salario - Via Salaria / Via Nomentana neighbourhood. Excellently restored, elegant, bright and fine furnished. Composed living and dining room, 2 double bedrooms, equipped kitchen, 2 baths (equipped with shower, sauna and Jacuzzi), 3 balconies. Air-conditioned, garage. € 1.200 monthly. Ph.(+39) 0692947057 Nuovo Salario - limitrofo Via Salaria / Via Nomentana. Ottimamente restaurato, elegante, luminoso e finemente arredato. Composto da soggiorno e sala da pranzo, 2 camere doppie (una matrimoniale), cucina attrezzata, 2 bagni (con doccia e sauna uno, con vasca idromassaggio l’altro), 3 balconi. Termoautonomo e climatizzato. Posto auto in garage condominiale. €1.200 mensili. Tel. (+ 39) 0692947057. PANTHEON. Furnished half apartment 50 sqm with bedroom, kitchen, dining room, bathroom, for nonsmoker American, German or Japanese woman €800 monthly. tony75011@ hotmail.com. Tel. +39066793997. PARIOLI. Via A. Gramsci - 1st floor, very bright, 200sqm double living room, 2 large bedrooms, 2 small bedrooms, brand new furnished eat-in kitchen, 3 bathrooms, built-in wardrobes, terrace, box auto for car €2.800 Immobiliare Zanni Real Estate Agency - 3474009753 (Bonnie). PENTHOUSE NEAR PIAZZA NAVONA. Also short let. Top floor with terrace and lift in elegant building in the heart of Rome just off Piazza Navona.
Tel. 0668301012, 3476329744. PERFECTLY RENOVATED 190 SQM APARTMENT TO LET. Very bright, prestigious apartment to let (close to Foreign Affairs Ministry + Marymount School). Elegant building with concierge. Marble / parquet floors. 2 lifts (private access to garage). 2nd / 4th Floor, 2 entrances, vestiaire, 3 communicating livings, 2 large bedrooms + 1 small, 3 bathrooms, fully equipped large kitchen, 2 large balconies, garage, parking lot + cellar. Energy class G. €2,250 month,with fully equipped kitchen (€2,450 month, all furniture). Please call +393356156236. PONTE MILVIO. Ponte Milvio. Lovely and restored apartment, top floor (4th), 60 sqm, 800 monthly. Tel. 339 / 6792131, email: francesca.lugli@ virgilio.it. PRATI (CIPRO METRO). 60 sqm, 4th floor walk-up, restored, furnished, living room, kitchen corner and dining area, bedroom, bathroom, balcony. €1.300. Property International Rome Services. Tel. 065743170 rome@propertyint.net. RENOVATED. Near Appia Antica. 2nd floor, 90 sqm, living, 2 bedrooms, furnished kitchen, bathroom, balcony, parquet, garage. g.lombardiboccia@ entecra.it. ROME SWEET HOME - HISTORIC CENTRE. Lets to companies and private individuals. Exclusive locations. Apartments, 1 - 2 - 3 bedrooms, completely furnished, maid service, utilities included, special rates for monthly lets. www.travelbusinessapartments.it, info@romesweethome. it. Tel. 0669924091, 335 / 7713580. S. GIOVANNI - PIAZZA EPIRO Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished & equipped renovated, living room, 2 sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12 mins walk from Colosseum. €1500/month. airleas.rome@ gmail.com. TESTACCIO. Testaccio, living room, bedroom, study, bathroom/ tub, quiet €1.050. Also Colosseo loft 50 sqm, 6 months. €1.200. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it.
TRASTEVERE - MARCONI. Fully furnished 70 sqm. Hall, 2 bedrooms, tub, guest bathroom, kitchen, storeroom, terrace, concierge, close to Roma Tre university. Wi-Fi incl/utilities part included. €1.200. cuorediroma@gmail.com. TRASTEVERE - S. MARIA. View of S. Maria in Trastevere, very quiet street. One large and one smaller bedrooms. Double living room, dining room and kitchen. Terrace and balconies. Fully equiped, possible minor furniture adaptations. Contract duration: min. 6 months. Available as from August 1st 2015. Ideal for one couple and one young boy/girl. enzocapu@gmail.com. TRASTEVERE. Nicely furnished, 3rd floor, sunny, entrance, living room, 1 bedroom, live-in kitchen, bathroom with shower, independent heating, air conditioning, internet with all appliances, available monthly. €1.350 plus expenses. As from January. Tel. 333 / 2843762, delpinto@hotmail.it. TRASTEVERE. Trastevere, unusual compound, quiet country atmosphere, living room, 1 bedroom, bathroom / tub. €1.300. Tel. 065813452, jbalsano@virgilio.it. VIA SANNIO (S. GIOVANNI). 120 sqm, 2nd floor, renovated, parquet, furnished / semi-furnished, lift, large living room, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, doorman. €1.900. Property International Rome Services. Tel. 065743170, rome@propertyint.net. VIGNA CLARA - PONTE MILVIO. Walking distance to Marymount School - 300 sqm remodeled luxury apartment, huge terrace, 5 bedrooms 5 bathrooms, parking. €4.500 - Immobiliare Zanni Real Estate Agency - 3474009753 http://www. immobiliare.it/agenzie_immobiliari/ Zanni_Roma.html. VIGNA CLARA. Elegant, bright, 160 sqm apartment, 2/3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living-dining room, ample balcony, furnished kitchen, maid’s quarters, garage-box, storagespace. €1.800. Tel. 068610871. imm. edwards@gmail.com. VIGNA CLARA. Lovely redecorated,
190 sqm apartment, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, vast living-dining roomstudy, lovely balcony, kitchen, ample maid’s quarters, large car-port. Rent: €2.500. Tel. 068610871. imm. edwards@gmail.com. VIGNA MURATA. 15 minutes drive to FAO. Elegantly furnished 160 sqm apartment. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, study / small 3rd bedroom, living-dining room, ample balcony, kitchen, garage-box, storage-room. Rent: €1.700. Tel. 068610871. imm. edwards@gmail.com. VILLA OLEANDER 4/6 BDRS. Strategically located. 1000 sqm garden with maintenance (included in rent), 4-6 bedrooms, 4-6 bathrooms,1-2 dining rooms, living rooms, 1-2 kitchens, livable mansard, laundry/service room, 6 terraces, 4+ car parking. Furnished, unfurnished, flexibly furnished. Excellent public transportation system to and from downtown, Metro 50 m distant. State of the art alarm-security system. Air Conditioning. Fireplace and pizza wood oven. Close to the highways system. Close to EUR business commercial area, close to Ostia beaches and Fiumicino international airport and international schools. All amenities and services within walking distance. We speak English and Spanish. Call Danilo at +39 3355644964 or Vincenzo +1 773 9888472. From owners. Accommodation vacant out of town
CHARMING HISTORICAL FARMHOUSE. Umbria. Charming historical farmhouse freshly restored. 4 bedrooms; 2 bathrooms, well equipped kitchen, large living / dining room with chimney. Traditional rural atmosphere, close to a medieval village on a prestigious archeological area. 45 min from Rome. Short / long-term rental. For info and photos: enricofloridi@tiscali.it. SUTRI: MEDIAEVAL TOWER. Sutri mediaeval tower: terrace, spacious, elegantly furnished 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, study, living-dining room, fireplace, big kitchen, all conveniences, centre old town. Ancient Roman column in window. 30 miles from Rome. judyharris123@gmail.com.
VILLA FOR MEETINGS AND HOLIDAYS. A breathtaking home designed by a known Roman architect, up to 16 guests, within a 30 minute drive from the city centre, perfect for job meetings, friends and families holidaying in Rome but looking to stay in the quiet of the BraccianoMartignano Natural Reserve. A five minute walk to a country traditional restaurant, swimming pool, a tennis court, hiking tracks. And an 18 holes golf court, a sailing club, a horse riding centre and thermal baths just a few minutes drive. www.villafarnia. com. ZAGAROLO 20 MILES FROM ROME CENTRE. 30 minutes by frequent trains. Half of a villa, furnished. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, large living room, large kitchen balcony, independent entrance and garden €900. Also furnished cottage bedroom plus small room bathroom dining/ kitchen portico €600. Both with fine views and with large property pool and tennis. drroversi@gmail.com. Tel. 3477037894. Holiday Accommodation
SUMMER RENT - JULY 2014 - MONTE ARGENTARIO. Porto S. Stefano; smoke-pet-free 70 sqm-flat, 6-bed, 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom, balcony + seaview, living + kitchen area + sofabed, hotwater, washmachine, dishwasher, microwave + sat-tv + dvdplayer (multiregion), carpark included; shops@300mt. +393494909806-tl9685@vodafone.it. UMBRIA CHARMING VILLAGE HOUSE. Lovely bedroom with ensuite bathroom, use of living room with satellite TV and WiFi included. Just an hour and a half from Rome. Long week-ends or weekly, full service or not. Please call 342-034-1499. UMBRIAN COUNTRYHOUSE. Charming 3-bedroom house, renovated, for short / long term rental. Rome 1 hour (Orte trains). Details: www.casamuralto.com. VILLA NEAR TEMPLE OF FORTUNA. Enjoy August or September in our family home. Between Palestrina and Catel S. Pietro Romano (35 km southeast of Rome). Panoramic views, 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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AMERICAN OVERSEAS SCHOOL OF ROME
Preparing Scientists for the 21st Century AOSR is a fully accredited Pre-Kindergarten through Grade 12 day school with a US-based curriculum (ages 3-19). Our state-of-the art science and technology programs are just some of the many ways we prepare tomorrow's global leaders to meet the challenges of our changing world with courage and integrity. Biology, Chemistry and Physics are offered in both the AP and IB Programs.
To learn more, write to us at info@aosr.org or visit us at:
www.aosr.org
Accredited by the Middle States Association of College and Schools. First international school awarded MSA’s prestigious International Credential.
lush garden, large swimming pool. From nearby Zagarolo, 25 minute train-ride to Rome. Suitable for 2 to 10 persons. Bunkbed and crib for the little ones available. Info:www.villawith-a-view.com. JOB VACANT
ADMINISTRATION ASSOCIATE. Principal Relocation Company seeks motivated, focused and goal oriented individual to work as an Administration Associate. Must have excellent Excel skills and demonstrable experience in office administration. Fluency in English and Italian is essential. Please send CV/photo to: careers (at) principalrelocation.com with ref: AA-RM. BRITISH SCHOOL FLEMING. Urgently requires qualified, native & experienced EFL teachers for kids & adults. Must already be based in Rome. Tel. 0633220960, fleming@ britishschoolroma.it, www.britishschoolroma.it. ENGLISH TEACHERS NEEDED. Established English School currently seeking full / part-time English mother-tongue teachers for adult and children courses. Full training provided. Contact us on 0647823253 or send your CV to teachers@angloamerican.it. EUROPEAN SALES ASSISTANT to promote our language schools in the USA among European tour operators. Candidates must have a university degree and excellent communication skills in English, but must also be either Russian, German or Spanish native speakers. Should exhibit good interpersonal skills and initiative. Experience in sales with European partners preferred. Competitive compensation package, including fixed-income plus bonuses. Training program offered at our language school in Miami. Place of employment: Rome. Send CV to job@angloamerican.it . HOST IN ROME. Luxury Destination Club is looking for personable host to welcome our members in Rome. You will need to help members with travel planning, welcome them in our luxury Rome apartment and
be available for any questions and assistance during their stay. Excellent knowledge of Rome as well as great customer service experience is required. This position is for someone who has the ability to send invoices and is set up with a valid Partita IVA. Please send your cover letter, CV and picture to romehost@yahoo.fr. INTERNATIONAL PRIMARY TEACHERS REQUIRED. Mothertongue UK and International trained early childhood and primary teachers required to join the existing team of International teachers at The Bilingual School of Lucca starting in September 2015. Experience essential in Reggio, enquiry-based approach or Curriculum for Excellence and some knowledge of Italian a plus. Please submit your CV. Application period will be open until the positions are filled. info@bschool.it. KIDS ENJOY COOKING IN ENGLISH! Looking for mothertongue or bilingual (British accent) for private lessons held every day from 5 to 6.30 in La Storta (close to Olgiata train station). We teach English to kids while they cook! We teach children aged 2 to 13. The candidate should be patient, clean, smiling, punctual, polite and reliable. Age is not a problem as long as you enjoy children. info@ kidsenjoycooking.com. MOTHER TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHER. BRITISH INSTITUTES di Valmontone seeks mother tongue English teachers. TEFL/Celta YL or equivalent qualification. Experience teaching children and adult classes a plus.Send CV to valmontone@britishinstitutes.it. SEEKING LANGUAGE INSTRUCTORS. Native English Language Instructors for Business Workshops Required. Rome/Milan. Berlitz Italy is among the world leaders in the field of language learning services. We are currently seeking English Language Instructors to host business workshops. The ideal applicant should have: Degree level education. DELTA qualification or equivalent a must. Relevant experience teaching Business Workshops. Significant experience in a Business environment. Would you like to work in a dynamic, international environment, then this
is the job for you! Interested? Please contact Louise Thorne at louise.thorne@berlitz.it. TERRAVISION GROUP SEEKS MARKETING EXECUTIVE. A major European company, with headquarters in Rome and London, working in the tourism industry, is offering a fantastic opportunity for a refreshing and dynamic Marketing Executive who is hungry to grow in a niche market. The Role: The role involves working alongside the marketing / commercial team to promote and commercialise the company’s integrated tourism services in various European cities through innovative marketing techniques and lots of hard work. All the various aspects of marketing from communication to client management, from PR to sales, from research and statistical analysis to advertising are called upon everyday in this varied role. The position is based in the company head office in Rome, Italy. The Candidate: The ideal candidate will be a new graduate in marketing or similar or a person with at least 3 / 4 years of experience in a marketing position who has lived and worked in an English speaking country. The candidate must possess an international outlook and possibly be a native English speaker. Knowledge of Italian is essential for this role and knowledge of at least two European languages is required. Excellent communication and relationship-building skills will characterise the candidate as will the ability to work under immense pressure and to very tight deadlines. Dedication and drive are also fundamental qualities for this very demanding role. Precision, organisation, tenacity and quick thinking are other qualities that the ideal candidate will have and will be able to demonstrate. The candidate will also use the Microsoft Office suite perfectly and will have a good all-round knowledge of computers and the internet. Only candidates who can already work in Rome will be considered for this position. Please do not apply for this position if you do not respond to these criteria. The position offers an excellent remuneration package including benefits and incentive based earnings and would commence with immediate effect. Please send your covering letter of no more than 70 4 February 2015 | Wanted in Rome
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words in English, stating why you are the best person for the role and your curriculum vitae to jobs@terravision. eu Marketing Executive stated clearly in the subject line. TOUR AGENCY SEEKING. Looking for outgoing people from the age of 18 to 30 to promote our tours in Rome. Send email to paulsam66@libero.it. LESSONS
ENGLISH CONVERSATION Lessons via Skype: exam prep and general English. Individuals or two. kjenkin2004@libero.it. Poetry
ALL CARS ACCIDENTS LEADS TO ROME. The Town Council has stopped, maybe is afraid to die crushed over the asphalt.sernicolimarco@gmail.com.
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Wanted in Rome | 4 February 2015
PARIS, JANUARY 2015. We will say that you are bad killers, we will combact you with our big sense of freedom. We won’ t permit you to take possess of our hope, we won’t surprised if somebody could assert that the massacre at charlie hebdo is just a little weirdo. Sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. TO LAURA, A FRIEND OF MINE. Falling in love is like simmer, unfortunately my flame was too high, but I don’t burned laura, because. Once she made me taste her......biological apples! sernicolimarco@gmail.com.
LIARE ZANNI - 347 4009753 - 335 8418861. Rooms and flat shares
LARGE SUNNY ROOM. Large sunny central room metro Garbatella. 1 month minimum kitchen washing machine. €450 for oneperson. Free WIFI all expenses included 065140512, 3478588544.
Property for sale in town
S. MARIA MAGGIORE - HISTORIC CENTRE. Single room, near S. Maria Maggiore, well connected to metro A/B. Shared bathroom, kitchen and washing-machine. Wi-Fi. Tel. 338 / 7911289. Please send email for further info.
PIAZZA MAZZINI. 5 minutes walking from Metro A - Lepanto - Gorgeous 180 sqm remodeled 1st floor flat, 4 bedrooms, 2 balconies, Sale Price € 1,300,000. For Info IMMOBI-
TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfortable and well equipped + kitchen use. Including internet and washing machine. €750 / month expences inc. Tel. 339 / 7857565.
useful
numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625 – www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268 – www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161 – malaysiansinitaly@gmail.com Caledonian Society info@caledoniansocietyofrome.org Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group tel. 065413985 – fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490 – www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome
irishclubofrome@gmail.com – www.irishclubofrome.com
Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3385094448 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628 – unwg@fao.org www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040 – dearprome@tele2.it www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com
books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it Herder International Book Center (German) Piazza di Montecitorio 117-120, tel. 066794628 bookcentre@herder.it – www.herder.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598 www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878 www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950 www.libreriaspagnola.it S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sat & Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00 The Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 The Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222 The Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478 www.books-in-italy.com
transport • • • • • •
Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 064157 – 066645 – 064994 Traffic info tel. 1518 Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021 www.trenitalia.it
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Wanted in Rome | 4 February 2015
cinemas The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see daily press for programme details. Alcazar Via Merry del Val 14, tel. 065880099 in original language on Mon Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334/1780632 www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Cinema Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 in original language on Mon when available
emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355
religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Kids Rock children’s service every 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month at midday Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302 www.anglicancentreinrome.com Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593 www.bbcroma.org. Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474 Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621 – 333 / 2284093 North Rome, tel. 0630894371 akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266 Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community
Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061
Jewish Reform Group in Rome Congregation Lev Chadash, Piazza della Libertà 10 tel. 339 / 3824815, Shabbat services at 10.00, Friday night service once a month Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70 tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314 Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652 – 066876211, Sunday service
10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167 – 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627 Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via del Caravita 7 – www.caravita.org St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359 Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787 Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)
St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121 Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic) Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic) Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546 Sunday service 10.00
support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913 – www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350 – www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580 www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499 – www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30 tel. 0647821098. 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228 – 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children) tel. 0644234511 – masonperkins@gmail.com www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606