Wanted in Rome - Apri 2016 by Wanted in Rome

April 2016 â&#x201A;Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 4

contents

titolo

no. 4 / april 2016 editorials

BEING PRESENT Giovanna Melandri, president of MAXXI, il Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 RAI SPOTLIGHTS UNSUNG HEROES Mary Wilsey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 SHAKESPEARE LIVES Andy Devane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 GUIDE TO GARDENS AROUND ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 MISCELLANY MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 ROME’s cultural academies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 4 May and 1 June. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 24 April (for 4 May) and 22 May (for 1 June). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine. Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 04/04/2016

Shakespeare montage. Cover by Monia Lucchetti. See article page 10.

Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

32 April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

art

Giovanna Melandri

BEING PRESENT MAXXI president outlines the museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important cultural role in Rome

Giovanna Melandri, president of MAXXI. Photo Flaminia Nobili.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

n the collective imagination, Paris is the ville lumiĂ¨re, London is swinging, New York is the Big Apple and Rome is the eternal city. Unlike most world capitals busily recreating their image and minting new definitions to market themselves in the XXI century, Rome seems able to regenerate herself autonomously without needing to turn to strategies imposed by territorial marketing. The eternal nature of this city lies in having always been able to welcome and absorb novelties and contemporary tendencies, to articulate and adapt them until they become her own. This is what happens at MAXXI. For the Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo is an institution which works like an open and dynamic space, adding the capacity to receive and transmit information from its territory and from the world to its traditional museum functions, and making the complex and contradictory themes of the present day approachable and understandable. Ever since it opened, the museum and its piazza have become the preferred meeting point of people of every age who choose to pass their time in an extraordinary space reserved for culture. The many and various activities offered by MAXXI make it an authentic contemporary forum where arts, sci-

art

MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo.

ence and politics come together to develop an open and articulated discourse on the times we are living in. This has inspired the decision to put its collections on permanent view, with free entry for most of the week, and in this way to give them back symbolically to the public. Through its relations with different cultural and creative worlds, from the most institutionalised to the most independent, MAXXI has proved it can dialogue with both the major international cultural centres and those organisations that make up the authentic centres of excellence in this city. I am thinking here of the Outdoor Festival which, after it had revitalised the former customs area in S. Lorenzo, moved in 2015 to the Flaminio district to reactivate a large area just across from MAXXI with art, music, videos and talks, where the former barracks in Via Guido Reni are to be developed for the Science City project. I am also thinking of the urban project of the Museo dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Altro e Dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Altrove di Metropoliz_cittĂ meticcia (MAAM). It started out as a squat in a former sausage factory in the Prenestina district, occupied by some 200 people of all ages and ethnic origins seeking a place to live. Over time it became first the location for the documentary Space Metropoliz, and then, thanks to the intervention of street artists creating the

set, its spaces began to take shape with works transforming the industrial site into a place to overcome the separation between spectators and artists. Speaking of experiments, I should also recall Maker Faire, the annual event that promotes the work of researchers and inventors in scientific and technological fields, to inspire a new concept of doing business based on that very Italian culture of know-how which lies at the base of the best of the production sector in our country. Equally innovative is the work carried out in Open House Rome, offer-

ing citizens a chance to discover the hidden treasures of the city, opening the doors to those mainly modern and contemporary spaces not normally accessible to the public as well as areas of urban transformation. The doors of the Cinema Aquila in the Pigneto district are at last open again to the public, with a programme put together for families and the younger generation. The closure of the cinema had met with a wave of dismay and a collection of signatures to demonstrate the evident need for a cultural experience, symbolic and precious, in this part of the capital. There is also another story of a movie hall which confirms how Rome is the epicentre of a healthy cultural uplift which is destined to renew the city from within: the story of the Cinema America Occupato in Trastevere. It is a tale of opposition to building speculation by a few young students who, in order to share spaces and culture, began to screen films which lit up and inspired into action first the surrounding area then the city, the world of Italian cinema, as well as two ministries and a president of the republic.

Lullaby to my father, part of current Amos Gitai exhibition at MAXXI. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

art

CURRENT EXHIBITIONS There are numerous interesting exhibitions currently taking place at MAXXI, for full details see website, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. SUPERSTUDIO. 50 YEARS OF SUPERARCHITETTURA 20 April-4 Sept Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the exhibition Superarchitettura, held in Pistoia in 1966, by the Italian architecture firm Superstudio. Founded by Adolfo Natalini and Cristiano Toraldo di Francia, Superstudio was a integral part of Italy’s Radical avant-garde architecture movement of the late 1960s.

Happy Happy by Korean artist Choi Jeong Hwa for the Transformers exhibition.

Another fascinating urban tale is that of the street artist Blu. Noted for the works he created at Rome’s Porto Fluviale which made the Ostiense district the first in the city to attract tourists and urban art fans, Blu brought colour and life to the façade of a council house block in Rebibbia, contributing to the relaunch of the district and to the end of the association of its name only with the jail built there in the ‘70s. In a period of political difficulties, complicated by the economic crisis, citizens’ proposals for urban changes are ever more frequent around the world, and Rome is no exception. As in many other metropolises, the transformation of some of its outlying areas are often started by the creative energy of the younger generations. MAXXI has already chosen to collaborate with some of these realities, and will continue to do so in the immediate future, continuing to be present. Giovanna Melandri is president of the MAXXI Foundation, and a former culture minister in two centre-left Italian governments from 1998-2001.

PIER LUIGI NERVI: LE ARCHITETTURE PER LO SPORT 5 Feb-2 Oct Plans, models, photographs and three-dimensional graphic presentations for over 60 sports projects by Italian architect Pier Luigi Nervi (1891-1979). The exhibition spans his entire career and includes the Palazzetto dello Sport in Rome’s Flaminio district, built for the 1960 Olympics, as well as major international Rome’s projects such as the Kuwait Sports Centre in 1968. HIGHLIGHTS / VISIONS. SOU FUJIMOTO, MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO, PAOLO SOLERI, LUCA VITONE, FRANZ WEST AND CHEN ZHEN 11 March-4 June Under the theme of vision, this exhibition features works by Italian and international artists and architects from the MAXXI collection, including Sou Fujimoto, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Paolo Soleri, Luca Vitone, Franz West and Chen Zhen. CHRONICLE OF AN ASSASSINATION FORETOLD 11 March-5 May Project by Amos Gitai based around the 1995 assassination of Israeli prime minister Yitzhak Rabin. On display are five video projections, including a number of excerpts from Gitai’s film Rabin the Last Day, as well as photographs and documents from the making of his film. The exhibition is produced in collaboration with BOZAR Centre for Fine Arts in Brussels. JIMMIE DURHAM: SOUND AND SILLINESS 5 Feb-24 April American artist, poet and political activist Jimmie Durham is celebrated for his lyrical, ironic and ethical art which incorporates drawing, writing, sculpture, architecture, video and performance. The exhibition includes two of Durham’s audio works and two videos, recorded and filmed respectively in Italy since 2005. ISTANBUL: PASSION, JOY, FURY 11 Dec-30 April Exhibition dedicated to Istanbul, continuing the series of MAXXI shows exploring the cultural milieu of the Mediterranean basin and the relations between the Middle East and Europe. The show examines the changing social, political and cultural demands of contemporary Turkey, featuring artistic productions, and audio and visual projects by important Turkish artists, architects and intellectuals. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810.

April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MEDIA

Mary Wilsey

RAI SPOTLIGHTS UNSUNG HEROES

Italy’s state broadcaster has an unerring eye for individual acts of heroism and what is happening on the street You who live safe in your houses, you who find warm food and friendly faces when you return home. Consider if this is a man who works in mud, who knows no peace, who fights for a crust of bread, who dies by a yes or no. Primo Levi. If This Is a Man. About half way through Fuocoammare the hero of Gianfranco Rosi’s awardwinning documentary, the national

health doctor on the island of Lampedusa, echoes Primo Levi’s cry of desperation about the Holocaust. “If these are men, then men must save them,” reflects Pietro Bartolo with tears in his eyes as he describes the ruthless capitalist hierarchy of the migrant boats. Those who pay more have a place on deck in the open air with a better chance of survival. Those who pay less are crammed into the fumefilled hold with the odds-on that they

Pietro Bartolo and Gianfranco Rosi after winning Berlin Film Festival’s Golden Bear.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

will die of asphyxiation, burns or overcrowding during the sea journey from the African coast to Europe. Consider if this is a woman without hair, without name, without the strength to remember, empty are her eyes, her womb cold like a frog in winter. Primo Levi. If This Is a Man. One of the more touchingly hopeful scenes in Rosi’s documentary is when Bartolo gives a pregnant migrant an ultra-sound scan. It is a deliberate policy, explained Bartolo in a television interview, to give all pregnant women a scan in order to give them back hope in their future. A long scene shows Bartolo gently trying to explain to a mother-to-be in his broken English the shadowy movements and gender of the entangled twins that he has identified on the screen. He sees clearly that one is a girl but then he begins a painstaking search for a way to identify the second. “There is such confusion in there it is difficult to tell whose arms and legs belong to which child,” he exclaims. From uterus to filthy hold in one of the rescued boats, to a devastating scene that Rosi admits he had second thoughts about screening but then

media

Rescued refugees struggle between life and death.

decided he must show so that no-one could claim in future that “we didn’t know what was happening.” Here dead bodies lie entangled one on top of the other, in indiscriminate heaps that make it impossible to pick out individuals. Here there are only lifeless limbs, or stiff outstretched hands, caught in rigor mortis, to mark one rotting corpse from another. In the hold there is no movement, the reverse of the tiny confused world in the ecograph. Was this a man... was this a woman? The film, which in February won the Golden Bear, the highest award at the Berlin International Film Festival, was shot during the year Rosi spent on Lampedusa after the drowning of over 368 migrants and refugees off its coast in 2013. It is a story about the lives of the ordinary islanders, mainly a young boy, Samuele Pucillo, who has the most uplifting and lyrical scenes in the film, and the local doctor Bartolo. Alongside the portraits of the Lampedusans Rosi follows the plight of the migrants as they are rescued or disembarked like fish from the fickle sea. Figures are

dragged from the boats, gasping for breath and stinking of diesel. The only way to tell if they are dead or alive is whether or not they are in black body bags. Men and women are photographed holding up numbers for identification. Shapeless figures criss-cross the screen wrapped in the now ubiquitous golden-silver thermal sheeting, with the uniform plastic flip-flops on their feet. They are pictured praying

Thermal sheeting is one of the symbols of rescue at sea.

to their Christian or Muslim God. And when a form of normality creeps back the men divide into national teams for a football match. The film – the first documentary to win Berlin’s Golden Bear – is a monument to the ordinary people of the island, whose slow-moving lives continue as they have done for centuries, almost unruffled by one of the largest waves of migration in human history. It is also a monument to the sheer bravery and determination of the migrants searching for a better life. And, in its way, it is a monument to Italy’s state broadcaster, RAI, the sponsor of the film. Italians have never had the same reverence for their state broadcaster as the British have for the BBC. More often than not it is scorned and its role in the formation of the national identity is routinely overlooked. It can be no coincidence that at the same time as Rosi’s documentary was showing in Berlin two other true stories of virtually unknown Italian heroes, Il Sindaco Pescatore and Io non mi arrendo, were being screened on RAI 1 prime time. Il Sindaco Pescatore is a RAI-produced film about Angelo Vassallo, a fisherman who became mayor of Pollica south of Naples in 1995, cleaned up the town and transformed it into a tourist attraction so successfully that it then fell into the hands of speculators and organised crime. Vassallo was killed by a gunman as he was returning home one evening in 2010, just a few months after he had been re-elected mayor for the fourth time. Roberto Mancini, the hero of Io non mi arrendo, was a policeman who uncovered the links between organised crime and the traffic of toxic and radioactive waste in Campania and around Naples in the 1990s. He fought on despite the political and judicial indifference of the time, and long before Roberto Saviano’s Gomorrah became April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

media

appendix

Samuele Pucillo in one of the lyrical scenes in the film.

a best-selling book and then another successful RAI film. Mancini died in 2014 after a slow death from a cancer induced by his investigations. Mancini’s Polish widow along with Anna Magri and Marzia Caccioppoli, whose young children, Riccardo and Antonio, also died of cancer caused by the toxic waste in the so-called Terra dei fuochi, were interviewed by Bruno Vespa, anchorman of RAI talk show Porta a Porta, immediately after the first episode of Io non mi arrendo. All were articulate, lucid and determined to prevent similar tragedies happening again. Like the Lampedusan doctor, these too are the heroes of the Italian south. To compare RAI to the BBC is perhaps unfair. Neither of its television films had the polish and certainly not the international pull or the budgets of the British productions. RAI doesn’t deal in grand country-house dramas, historical tales of military glories, kings and queens or gripping spy narratives, which in itself says something about the difference between British and Italian culture. But it does have an unerring eye for what is going on in the street – the real mass audience that so fascinated the late Umberto Eco. It has been instrumental in standard-

ising the Italian language – even in the 1960s Italians were divided by their regional dialects. It has also been responsible for the formation of many other aspects of its culture, whether cinema, art, dance music or theatre. Nor should the formative influence be underestimated of such mass-audience programmes as the Sanremo song contest and the now defunct Raffaella Carrà talent show, Carràmba! Che sorpresa. Many of the performers went on to become successful singers, musicians, dancers and choreographers. Both programmes were in full swing long before other countries adopted talent-spotting blockbusters such as The Voice (which has returned Carrà to RAI screen this spring) and We got Talent. Eco, Italy’s great philosopher, semiotician, novelist, essayist and literary critic who died on 19 February, would probably have had something to say about the increasingly inventive use of English in the media, as well as in political discourse, questioning perhaps whether phrases such as minifiction, jobs act, stepchild adoption, bail in, bail out are really necessary when adequate (and perhaps more accurate) Italian expressions are to hand. But in Fuocoammare, English really is necessary, often as the only

“A molti, individui o popoli, può accadere di ritenere, più o meno consapevolmente, che ‘ogni straniero è nemico’. Per lo più questa convinzione giace in fondo agli animi come una infezione latente; si manifesta solo in atti salutari e incoodinati, e non sta all›origine di un sistema di pensiero. Ma quando questo avviene, quando il dogma inespresso diventa premessa maggiore di un sillogismo, allora, al termine della catena, sta il Lager.” “Many people – many nations – can find themselves holding, more or less wittingly, that ‹every stranger is an enemy›. For the most part this conviction lies deep down like some latent infection; it betrays itself only in random, disconnected acts, and does not lie at the base of a system of reason. But when this does come about, when the unspoken dogma becomes the major premiss in a syllogism, then, at the end of the chain, there is the Lager.” Primo Levi. If This Is a Man. language of communication between those on the boats and those trying to help them. The great psalm of despair – so reminiscent of Baptist church services in America’s poor black innercity ghettoes or its rural south – that recites the horrors of the migrant journeys (not far removed from slave crossings of previous centuries) is cried out in English. But side-by-side with the English the thick dialect of the islanders lives on. Luckily for Rome cinema goers, many of whom might find it difficult (if not impossible) to understand the dialogue of the close-knit Lampedusans, there are subtitles, in Italian, to guide them through. Eco might have had something to say about that too. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

LITERATURE

Andy Devane

SHAKESPEARE LIVES

Rome plays its part in marking the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death

“N

ot that I loved Caesar less, but that I loved Rome more.” This is the Shakespeare quotation chosen by Christopher Prentice, Britain’s ambassador to Italy, as part of a major global initiative organised by the British Council and the UK charity Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO). Launched on 5 January, Shakespeare Lives comprises a series of cultural events and activities celebrating the work of the world’s most popular playwright on the 400th anniversary of his death. Central to the project is Play your Part, a Twitter campaign inviting people to post their favourite quotation online or record themselves expressing what they most like about Shakespeare, as part of fundraising efforts to help VSO offer education to children around the world. Ambassador Prentice chose the line by Brutus from Act III, Scene 2 of Julius Caesar, Shakespeare’s tragedy based on true events from Roman history and believed to have been written in 1599. In his video post, the ambassador says he selected the quotation for three

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

Performance of King Lear at Rome’s Globe Theatre last year. Photo Marco Borrelli.

reasons: firstly he was cast as Caesar in a production of the play when he was a VSO volunteer in Jordan in 1972, and can still “remember the enthusiasm with which all my pupils assassinated me on the stage.” He also cites the fact that, having served five “happy, if challenging” years as British ambassador in the Italian capital, any line about “loving Rome more” is close to his heart.

The third and “perhaps most important” reason – Prentice states – is that the line speaks to him as a civil servant and highlights the responsibility of his role. Underlining the commitment of public servants to act “dispassionately in the public interest”, Prentice says “there is also a clear element in which we retain our personal conscience.” Another important figure in Rome

LITERATURE lending his support to Play your Part is the popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti who, for the last 13 years, has been the artistic director of the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre. The charming timber structure, in the heart of Villa Borghese, is a full-scale reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, almost identical to the building on London’s South Bank. Proietti recently received special recognition at the UK-Italy Business Awards for his efforts in promoting the heritage of Shakespeare in Italy. He is passionate about the work undertaken by Rome’s Globe, stressing the theatre’s “need and desire” to continue exploring the works of The Bard of Avon. “As they say in Italian slang,” Proietti says, “like a bottomless well, the more you dig the more extraordinary things you find” (come si dice un po’ in un gergo in Italia, come fosse un grande pozzo senza fondo, più si scava più si trovano cose straordinarie). As part of the international celebrations, a two-year tour of Hamlet has been travelling the world since April 2014, on the 450th anniversary of Shakespeare’s birth. The Globe to Globe tour boasts that audiences in “every single country in the world”, from wartorn Afghanistan to ebola-affected Sierra Leone, will get to hear “To be or not to be” live. Italians can catch up with the tour at the Teatro Nuovo Dogana in the Republic of S. Marino on 12 April or at the Rossetti Theatre in Trieste on 16 April. However the Vatican City performance on 13 April, at the Palazzo della Cancelleria beside Campo de’ Fiori (extraterritorial property of the Holy See), is by invitation only. The trailblazing tour comes to a climactic end in London on 23 April on the anniversary of Shakespeare’s death in 1616, aged 52. Hamlet makes an appearance again on the big screen on 19-20 April, when cinemas in Rome and across Italy show

Gigi Proietti, artistic director of the Globe Theatre in Rome.

the National Theatre Live version, recorded live on stage in London and starring Oscar-nominee Benedict Cumberbatch. Italian state television channel RAI5 is also staging an entire day of programming devoted to Italian Shakespearean productions on 23 April. Rome’s English-language theatre

companies have been busy marking the occasion too. Earlier this year The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome staged a production of As You Like It, while the English Theatre of Rome presents an all-female Hamlet, directed by Douglas Dean and produced by Gaby Ford, at Teatro Arciliuto near Piazza Navona until 10 April. Dean, who has three Shakespearean productions in Rome already under his belt – A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Julius Caesar and Twelfth Night – said: “It seemed appropriate to make a small gesture showing how far we’ve come since Shakespeare’s time when, of course, women were not allowed on the stage.” Highlighting “themes of gender and identity”, the international cast of Dean’s Hamlet includes “a couple of Americans, a handful of Brits, two Italians, a Singaporean, a Canadian and a German.” Dean has edited the text down to a running time of just

Benedict Cumberbatch in Hamlet at London’s Barbican Theatre. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

LITERATURE under two hours, offering “a dynamic, fast-moving production, with clear story-telling” – all in English, too. For Gaby Ford, who founded the English Theatre of Rome 20 years ago, Shakespeare “captures the perplexity of humanity” and is “still able to nail it in a heartbeat.” In February an international conference at Università Roma Tre examined the extent to which James Joyce was influenced by Shakespeare. “Joyce had little hesitation in acknowledging the importance of his great English predecessor and even gave a series of a dozen lectures on Hamlet in Trieste in 1912,” according to Joyce scholar and conference organiser Prof. John Mc Court, who added: “Both Ulysses and Finnegans Wake are embroidered with references to Shakespeare and all his writings.” But what of the notion, however speculative, that Shakespeare may have visited Rome? In 2009 the Venerable English College in Rome hosted an exhibition exploring its history, from its foundation in the 1300s as a mediaeval pilgrims’ hospice and as a refuge for persecuted Catholics during the Reformation to its transformation in 1579 as a seminary, a role it retains to this day. Among the exhibits were several mysterious signatures on parchment from the college’s 16th-century guest books for visiting pilgrims: Arthurus Stratfordus Wigomniensis signed the book in 1585, while Gulielmus Clerkue Stratfordiensis left his mark in 1589. Some people believe the signatures can be translated as “(King) Arthur’s (compatriot) from Stratford (in the diocese) of Worcester”, and “William, Clerk of Stratford” respectively. This feeds into the hypothesis that Shakespeare may have been a covert Catholic and, while staying at the college on Via di Monserrato, used pseudonyms referring to his hometown Stratford-upon-Avon to avoid persecution during the brutal suppression of Catholicism under Elizabeth I.

Rome’s Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese stages Shakespeare plays each summer.

In her book The Life and Times of William Shakespeare, 1564-1616, the German Shakespearean scholar Hildegard Hammerschmidt-Hummel concludes that The Bard received a Catholic education on the continent and travelled to Rome regularly during the unaccounted “lost years” (1585-1592). She claims that close reading of his plays from the 1590s reveals his familiarity with Italy as well as with Catholic teaching and rites. This year Rome hosts numerous Shakespearean theatrical tributes in Italian while part of the recent seventh edition of Libri Come, the city’s annual literature festival, was dedicated to Shakespeare and featured visiting international writers including English novelist Jonathan Coe. An exhibition titled Shakespeare in Rome, featuring the Shakespeareinspired works of seven young Italian artists, runs at Galleria Russo from 16 April until 7 May. A more tenuous, and coincidental, link between Rome and the Bard’s England comes courtesy of an exhibition of works by British land artist Richard Long, whose paintings were created

using mud from the river Avon’s tidal banks, at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill until 30 April. Looking forward to the annual summer celebration of Shakespeare at Rome’s Globe Theatre, chances are this year will have an extra special programme. At the time of writing details were unavailable; however, if rumours are to be believed, it looks as if Rome could see a return of the Bedouin Shakespeare Company, who last year performed the Globe’s first show in English, The Comedy of Errors. Praising the “raw energy and enthusiasm” of Italian audiences, Bedouin’s artistic director Edward Andrews says it “really confirms the universal language of live theatre and of Shakespeare.” Reliable sources suggest that, once city funding is secured, the London company could be coming back this September to perform The Winter’s Tale. But in the meantime – friends, Romans, countrymen – play your part. For details of Shakespeare Lives events in Italy and around the world see www.britishcouncil.it or www.shakespearelives.org. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scene tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Art Centre Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.3019.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to

Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.00-18.00. Mon closed. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.0019.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna. it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. MonSat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery recently relaunched near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it. Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.

Monitor

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

Valle, an Italian artist who finds modern artistic expression in an ancient technique. The show also includes photographs of the mosaic works in their various phases of development. Casina Delle Civette, Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 0644250072, www. museivillatorlonia.it. CAMPIDOGLIO: MITO, MEMORIA, ARCHEOLOGIA 1 March-19 June Exhibition of rare archival documents, paintings, engravings, sculptures and archaeological discoveries telling the story of the profound urban transformation of Rome’s Campidoglio over the centuries. A highlight of the exhibition is Turner’s Modern Rome - Campo Vaccino, on loan from the Getty Center in Los Angeles. Painted in 1839, the work depicts an unexcavated Roman Forum and is on display in Rome for the first time. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 06 39967800, www. museicapitolini.org.

exhibitions La schiava turca by Parmigianino at the Scuderie del Quirinale.

Decori by Patrizia Dalla Valle at Villa Torlonia.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

CORREGGIO AND PARMIGIANINO: ART IN PARMA IN THE 16TH CENTURY 12 March-26 June The Scuderie del Quirinale showcases the art of Parma in the first half of the 16th century, a golden age for the city whose most celebrated artists Correggio (1489–1534) and Parmigianino (1503–1540) contributed greatly to the Italian Renaissance. The exhibition presents a selection of paintings and drawings by both artists who were best known for their religious and mythological paintings. Also on display are works by four other artists from the so-called School of Parma: Michelangelo Anselmi, Francesco Maria Rondani, Girolamo Mazzola Bedoli and Giorgio Gandini del Grano. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. PATRIZIA DALLA VALLE: METAMOSAICO 2 March-30 April Exhibition of mosaics by Patrizia Dalla

FUMETTO ITALIANO: 50 ANNI DI ROMANZI DISEGNATI 27 Feb-24 April Half a century of Italian comics examined through various narrative genres. The exhibition comprises 40 graphic novels written and illustrated since 1967, from Hugo Pratt’s Una Ballata del Mare Salato to Dimentica il mio nome by Zerocalcare. More than 300 original drawings are exhibted in chronological order many on public display for the first time. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

STILL SHOWING TOULOUSE-LAUTREC 4 Dec-8 May Some 170 works by Henri ToulouseLautrec come to Rome from the Museum of Fine Arts in Budapest, currently closed for renovations. Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) is famed for his prolific output of Post-Impressionist paintings and posters, lithographs and Art Nouveau illustrations, the majority of which recorded scenes from the brothels, theatres and bars of late 19th-century Paris. The works exhibited in Rome were created during the last decade of the bohemian artist’s life, who died aged 36, and include rare limited-edition prints, illustrations and posters. Of particular interest are the designs leading to the final images, showing the evolution process behind the printed poster or lithograph. The exhibition comprises sections dedicated to Parisian nightlife, actresses from the Belle Epoque, and horse-racing at Longchamp. It also pro-

Modern Rome. Campo vaccino by Turner on loan to the Capitoline Museums.

vides poignant insights into the artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal life and his warm relationship with the prostitutes and dancers who feature in so much of his work. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. BOTERO: VIA CRUCIS: LA PASSIONE DI CRISTO 13 Feb-1 May The Passion of Christ is a cycle of works by Fernando Botero, the Colombian artist famous for his style known as Boterismo which depicts people in large, exaggerated sizes. Created between 2010 and 2011, the religious cycle comprises 27 oil paintings and 34 works on paper, and has been shown in numerous countries on the American continent and in Europe. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it. MARISA E MARIO MERZ 18 Feb-12 June For more than 50 years Marisa and Mario Merz collaborated as artists, from their beginnings in Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Arte Povera movement in the 1960s up until the death of Mario in 2003. The husband and wife duo had a close, creative and intellectual working relationship in their collective work while managing to maintain distinct individual careers. This exhibition Sto in quella curva di quella montagna che vedo riflessa in questo lago di vetro. Al tavolo di Mario presents selected works by the two artists, including sculpture, text and wax installations. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

The Kiss of Judas by Botero at Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

Marisa and Mario Merz at MACRO. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

REVIEW OF THE MONTH I MACCHIAIOLI: LE COLLEZIONE SVELATE AT CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE 16 March-4 Sept This is the second time in recent years that the Chiostro del Bramante has dedicated an exhibition to the Macchiaioli, a group of idealistic Italian painters active in the second half of the 19th century. However, unlike the 2007 show which charted the history of the Tuscan movement, this exhibition is as much a tale of the Macchiaioli as their patrons who allowed the artists to develop their groundbreaking work. Speaking at the exhibition preview on 15 March, curator Francesca Dini underlined the enormous debt owed to these private individuals who not only assembled fine collections but nurtured the Macchiaioli’s progession. Dini, who also curated the 2007 show, said the new exhibition “lives up to its name” by unveiling Uliveta a Settignano by Telemaco Signorini paintings that have never been seen in public. Drawing from nine important collections, the exhibition comprises over 110 works and is divided into nine sections, each named after a collector who helped to shape the Macchiaioli movement. In a similar way to the better-known Parisian Impressionists, who came a decade later, the Macchiaioli spurned the outdated conventions of art academies, working en plein air to capture natural light, shade and colour, as well as painting portraits. Their name is a play on the Italian word macchie, meaning spots or stains, used to describe the patches of sunlight and shadow which were central to their work. The other meaning of macchie – “scrubland” – was used by art critics of the day to mock the Macchiaioli, belittling their work as unfinished sketches painted in the wild, not polished academic paintings completed in the studio. Despite being effectively outcast by the establishment, the Macchiaioli captured the imagination of a handful of collectors who saw in their paintings an authenticity, enthusiasm and independence, a romantic and windswept quest for beauty and modernism. The Chiostro del Bramante pays tribute to these collectors, acknowledging the vital lifeline they provided to the movement a century and a half ago. The exhibition begins with paintings from the Cristiano Banti collection, including the Impressionistic Ritratto di Alaide Banti in giardino by Banti who, in addition to being a leading member of the Macchiaioli, assembled works by his counterparts who viewed his collection as a mirror into their collective progession. A gem from the Diego Martelli collection, the core of which plays a significant role in the Gallery of Modern Art at Palazzo Pitti in Florence, is an understated drawing of trees on brown paper by Giuseppe Abbati, a major player in the movement. Nearby is a portait of Abbati by a young Giovanni Boldini, showing the artist without the eye he lost in the Battle of Capua, during Garibaldi’s 1860 campaign. Within three years Abbati was dead from rabies, aged 32, after being bitten by his dog Cennino, who appears alongside him in Boldini’s portrait. Rinaldo Carnielo was a Florentine artist whose collection of more than 300 Macchiaioli works was dispersed in a series of sales in 1929. On display is the beautifully desolate Casa sul botro by his friend Giovanni Fattori, the best known of the Macchiaioli. The largest works in the exhibition – several of them scenes of soldiers mustering cattle by Fattori – can be found in the room dedicated to Turin merchant Edoardo Bruno whose 400-strong collection became a place of pilgrimage for Macchiaioli scholars in the 1920s. A centrepiece is Cucitrici di camicie rosse by Odoardo Borrani, a solemn scene of well-dressed women sewing at a dining-room table with a portrait of Garibaldi in the background, while with Uliveta a Settignano by Telemaco Signorini one can almost feel the heat of the sun on the ochre earth, practically hear the crickets in the olive grove. On the first floor, the Casa Sforni collection includes previously unseen works by Fattori and the striking Bambino con fiocco rosso by Oscar Ghiglia, as well as Paesaggio rosa con figura painted much later (1916) by Llewelyn Lloyd. This Welsh-Italian trained as a painter in Livorno where he met many artists, among them Modigliani, before following the elder Fattori to Florence. The collection of the “most acute and refined connoisseur of the Macchiaioli”, sculptor Mario Galli, includes an exquisite series of five small elongated landscapes by Borrani, looking over fields and allotments towards mountains and sea. There is also Ciociara, a portait of the 19-year-old Hungarian governess Amalia Nollemberg with whom Fattori had a passionate but much frownedupon affair. Things take an even prettier turn with Il giubetto rosso by Italian Impressionist Federico Zandomeneghi in the Camillo Giussani collection, while the exhibition ends with the magnificent Ponte Vecchio a Firenze by Signorini. The work, a lively scene featuring all strands of society crossing the mediaeval bridge, belongs to a section dedicated to the 20th-century collector Mario Borgiotti whose studies have helped to give the Macchiaioli artists the recognition they deserve but have yet to fully attain. Andy Devane Ciociara, ritratto di Amalia Nollemberg by Giovanni Fattori.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

RICHARD LONG: AVON TIBER 20 Feb-30 April Richard Long is among a generation of British land artists who has pushed the boundaries of sculpture beyond the confines of traditional materials. This exhibition includes large panels and works on paper created using the mud from the river Avon’s tidal banks, as well as sculpture made from basalt stone from the Italian Alps. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com. ALESSANDRO ROMA 20 Feb-16 April The z2o Sara Zanin Gallery presents One foot in the world and the other in the stillness, the first solo exhibition by London-based Milan artist Alessandro Roma at the gallery. Imagination, memory and nature all play central roles in Roma’s work which fuses the classical landscape tradition with informality and experimentation. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. TITO: 90 ENERGIE TRA FIGURAZIONE E ASTRAZIONE 12 March-12 May Generally recognised by his first name, Tito Amodei is an Italian painter, sculptor and member of the Passionist community in Monte Argentario north of Rome. He is also the founder of Sala 1 which, on his 90th birthday, dedicates a retrospective of his works from the 1960s until today. Galleria Sala 1, Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. ANTOINE JEAN-BAPTISTE THOMAS E IL POPOLO DI ROMA 1817-1818 23 March-11 Sept Palazzo Braschi displays some 142 original drawings and lithographs by French artist Antoine Jean-Baptiste Thomas depicting daily life in 19thcentury Rome. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. FORGOTTEN: THE EXHIBITION 14 April-15 May MACRO Testaccio dedicates an exhibition to the Forgotten street art project which involves five Portuguese artists enlivening abandoned or “forgotten” buildings around Rome. Supported by the embassy of Portugal in Italy, Forgotten began last October with a mural by Add Fuel in Piazza della Marina, in the Flaminio district. It continued with a Frederico Draw mural featuring Pier Paolo Pasolini at the Teatro India site in Ostiense. Then Bordalo II created a

Lights Camera Auction installation by ±MaisMenos± for the Forgotten project at the former Pasquino cinema in Trastevere. Photo Paolo Darra.

The Galleria Sala Uno pays homage to Tito with a retrospective on his 90th birthday.

mixed-media mural outside S. Pietro train station, featuring a goat’s head made from discarded mechanical parts. The fourth intervention was by ±MaisMenos± who erected a series of temporary word-play slogans around the capital’s recently-closed cinemas. The exhibition launch coincides with the unveiling of a large-scale mural at the Guido Reni market in Flaminio by the fifth and final artist Eime who will highlight the closure of food markets in the face of competition from chain stores. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www.museomacro.org. AFARIN SAJEDI: ILLUSION 16 April-30 May The Dorothy Circus Gallery shows five huge canvases by Iranian pop-surrealist Afarin Sajedi whose exhibition theme is “illusion.” Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Untitled work by Alessandro Roma at Gallleria Z2O. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE S. CECILIA GRIGORY SOKOLOV 15 April Grigory Sokolov is back again at back at S. Cecilia in April playing two works by Schumann and two by Chopin. The incomparable Sokolov has an average of eight concerts a month this year in one European city after another. In April alone he begins with Florence on 11 April and ends with Bregenz on 27 April, with Milan, Rome, Bologna, Stuttgart, Munich and Budapest in between. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

classic For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA S. GIOVANNI BATTISTA BY ALESSANDRO STRADELLA 7 April As the programme notes point out, this is no ordinary oratorio but a key text in Italy’s musical history, as important as Bernini sculpture or Guido Reni’s paintings. This Baroque work was performed first in Rome in 1675 on Palm Sunday, commissioned along with 13 oratorios that year by the confraternity of the Church of S. Giovanni dei Fiorentini to mark the Holy Year of 1675. Stradella, who was murdered in Genoa in 1682 at the age of 42, composed some 300 works of various genre during his life time. His music and his importance was later overshadowed by that of Corelli and Vivaldi. Teatro Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

London Brass for the Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti.

FRANCESCO D’ORAZIO #VIOLIN 14 April From the Baroque to the contempory violin Francesco D’Orazio plays music by Berio, J.S Bach, Sebastiani, Ysaӱe, Corrado (a new work) and Led Zeppelin. Sala Casella, Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Via Flaminia 118. DEDICATED TO GIUSEPPE SINOPOLI 17 April The concert is dedicated to the work of the late conductor Giuseppe Sinopoli on the 15th anniversary of his death. Sinopoli had a close relationship with the Accademia Filarmonica Romana during the 1990s, both as conductor and composer, and the concert will be performed by some of the musicians who worked with him during this period when he founded the Solisti della Filarmonica. Music by Beethoven, Sinopoli, Berg and Glinka. Sala Casella, Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

YURI TEMIRKANOV CONDUCTS BRAHMS 23-26 April Yuri Temirkanov conducts Brahms symphony no. 4, the last of Brahms symphonies, which Brahms conducted himself when it was first performed in public in 1885. The progamme also includes three works to mark the death of children, the first by Ravel (Pavane pour une infante defunte) and the other two are Mahler’s Kindertotenlieder. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. KRYSTIAN ZIMERMAN 27 April As usual Zimerman’s programme is announced at the last moment but it would be unusual if there were no Chopin or Beethoven. Zimerman now limits the number of his live performances as well as his recordings so each appearance is something of a special occasion. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. For most of April the S. Cecilia orchestra is on tour in France and Germany. ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI MANUEL BARRUECO 12 April The Cuban classical guitarist returns to IUC with a programme of music by Weiss, Bach, Torroba, Turina and Albeniz. Although the concert at IUC is mainly classical music Barrueco is also committed to extending the classical guitar repertoire to contemporary works. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Krystian Zimerman gives one of his increasingly rare performances at S. Cecilia.

LONDON BRASS 16 April This 10-piece brass band, one of the great international brass bands, is celebrating its 30th anniversary. The

programme at the IUC, called Classical Jazz, is a mix of classical, folk, popular and jazz. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. ORATORIO GONFALONE RINALDO ALESSANDRINI 14 April A virtuoso of Baroque keyboards, Alessandrini plays music by Couperin, Forqueray, Sweelink, Bohm and Buxtehude on the harpsichord. Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. NUOVI RACCONTI MEDITERRANEI 28 April In this jazz concert Gabriele Mirabassi plays the clarinet, Enrico Pieranunzi the piano and Enzo Pietropaoli the double bass. Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ TURIN BRAKES 14 April Unplugged in Monti presents Turin Brakes at the Chiesa Evangelica Metodista, as part of its Church Sessions series of concerts. Formed in 1999, this English acoustic band achieved mainstream success with the single Painkiller (Summer Rain). The group is one of the few acts on the Indie circuit to have sold over one million records worldwide. Chiesa Evangelica Metodista, Via XX Settembre 123, www.unpluggedinmonti.com.

MARCUS MILLER 15 April American jazz composer, producer and multi-instrumentalist, best known as a bass guitarist. Miller has worked alongside greats such as Miles Davis while maintaining a successful solo career. In addition to bass, he plays clarinet, keyboards, saxophone and guitar. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com. DAN STUART 16 April This Californian musician is best known as the singer-songwriter and frontman of the 1980s post punk, alt-country rock band Green On Red. Le Mura, Via di Porta Labicana 24, tel. 0664011757, www.lemuramusicbar.com. CHRIS CORNELL 18 April The American rock musician, singersongwriter and frontman for Seattle rock band Soundgarden comes to Rome as part of his Higher Truth acoustic tour of Europe. Cornell played a seminal role in the 1990s grunge movement, along with contemporaries Pearl Jam, Nirvana, and Alice in Chains. He is also the former lead vocalist and songwriter for supergroup Audioslave which disbanded in 2007. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium. com. BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN 16 July Tickets, starting at €98, are still available for the much-anticipated concert

Marcus Miller plays at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

by American rocker Bruce Springsteen at the Circus Maximus. Accompanied by the E Street Band, Springsteen’s Rome concert will conclude his European River Tour and will be his ninth in the capital. The River Tour features tracks from his successful 1980 double album The River, as well as other Springsteen classics. SANTANA 19 July Tickets have gone on sale for Santana, who comes to town as part of the veteran band’s Luminosity tour. Fronted by Mexican-American musician Carlos Santana the group became famous in the late 1960s for pioneering a fusion of rock and Latin American music, combining blues-based guitar with timbales and congas. Best known for tracks such Oye Come Va and Black Magic Woman. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com.

Carlos Santana performs in Rome this summer.

festivals IRISHFILMFESTA 7-10 April The ninth edition of the IRISHFILMFESTA coincides with the 100th anniversary of Ireland’s Easter Rising. Dedicated to screening the best of contemporary Irish cinema, the popular festival takes place as usual at the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese from 7-10 April. The four-day event showcases Irish feature films including You’re Too Ugly, The Survivalist, and I Used to Live Here; documentaries and short films, and provides conferences and public interviews with special guests from the Irish film sector. This year’s festival has 15 short films in competition as well as a special focus on Ireland 1916-2016, on the centenary of Ireland’s insurgency against British rule. The programme includes a selection of episodes from 1916 Seachtar na Casca (The Easter Seven), a series of historical documentaries about the seven Easter Rising leaders. In addition there is the screening of nine films created as part of the After ‘16 initiative funded by the Irish Film Board as part of the centenary commemorations. This year’s Irish classic is Neil Jordan’s Michael Collins, which is being screened in Rome 20 years after it won the Golden Lion award at the 1996 Venice Film Festival where its star Liam Neeson was voted best actor. All films shown in their original versions with Italian subtitles. Entry is free but it is advisable to arrive early due to high demand for seats. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 06423601, www. irishfilmfesta.org.

opera FLORENCE MAGGIO MUSICALE 24 April-4 July As usual the festival begins with Zubin Metha conducting the opening concert on 24 April, with Andras Schiff playing Beethoven’s Emperor concerto, followed by Beethoven’s 9th symphony. The first opera (28 April-5 May) is Tchaikovsky’s Iolanthe. Il 79° Maggio Musicale Fiorentino si apre con quattro recite di Iolanta (28 aprile-5 maggio) l’ultima opera di Tchaikovsky che fu rappresentata nel Teatro Mariinskij di S. Pietroburgo il 6 dicembre 1892 insieme al balletto Lo schiaccianoci, sempre di Čajkovskij. Fu

The IrishFilmFesta screens Michael Collins on the 20th anniversary of its release.

un grande successo di pubblico ma non di critica. Narra di Iolanta, la bella figlia del re di Provenza; vive in un castello con un meraviglioso giardino circondato da alte mura ma è cieca, però senza sapere di esserlo. Iolanta vive così, nascosta al mondo, fino al giorno in cui il nobile giovane Goffredo Vaudemont non la vede e se ne innamora e le fa riacquistare la vista e scoprire le bellezze dell’amore. Vertici della vicenda e per l’ispirazione musicale sono il duetto tra i due giovani, dove l’amore è espresso con una melodia di grande lirismo e tenerezza, e il “miracolo” della vista riacquistata, salutato dall’appassionato ed estatico canto di Iolanta davanti alla luce che irrompe nel giardino. Nel conclusivo “Inno al Creatore” si ascoltano “mistiche” sonorità che ricordano Wagner. Gli interpreti principali di questo allestimento, che è del Metropolitan Opera House e del Teatr Wielki Opera Narodowa, sono Tatiana Monogarova (Iolanta) e Sergiej Skorochodow (Vaudemont), la direzione d’orchestra è di Michail Jurowski, mentre la regia spetta al polacco Mariusz Treliński, che a Bologna nell’aprile 2014 ha messo in scena, non senza una certa provocazione, ancora Tchaikovsky: Eugene Onegin. Paolo Di Nicola

MILAN LA CENA DELLE BEFFE BY UMBERTO GIORDANO 3 April-7 May This new La Scala production is a

continuation of its project to bring Verismo repertoire back to the Milan opera house. Giordano’s opera, one of his later works, was first performed at La Scala in 1924 conducted by Toscanini. It was adpated from the play of the same title by Sem Benelli which premiered at Rome’s Teatro Argentina in 1909. Here it is conducted by Carlo Rizzi, an expert of Italian repertoire, with the theatrical, operatic and cinematographic experience of Mario Martone as the director. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org. For those interested in Umberto Giordano operas there is the much better known Fedora at the S. Carlo in Naples from 3-11 May, a production from Teatro Regio di Turin.

ROME LO SCOIATTOLO IN GAMBA BY NINO ROTA 15-20 April This late addition to the season’s programme (specially for schools judging by the times of the performances) is a work by Rota on a text by Eduard De Filippo and will be introduced by a presentation of the orchestra’s instruments, a sort of Peter and the Wolf idea. Lo Scoiattolo in Gamba was composed by Rota in 1959 for the Venice international music festival and the text was inspired by a fable written by De Filippo’s daughter as a school assignment. All eight performances are in the morning or early evening. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operadiroma.it. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Valentino is behind Sofia Coppola’s debut as an opera director at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma in May.

Italian tenor who performed in Gianni Schicchi at the opera house in April. Chacón-Cruz, a protege of Placido Domingo, has already made a name for himself among international audiences. Thanks to Valentino this is another feather in the cap for Rome’s opera house after a season of new and adventurous productions. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www. operadiroma.it.

CARACALLA OPERA

Opera Notes Nel cartellone del Teatro alla Scala figura dal 3 al 28 aprile La cena delle beffe di Umberto Giordano per la regia di Mario Martone, con la direzione d’orchestra di Carlo Rizzi e nei ruoli principali il soprano Kristin Lewis, i tenori Marco Berti e Leonardo Calmi e il baritono Nicola Alaimo. É un poema drammatico dove Giordano opera un’interessante ricerca sulla vocalità con timbri e fraseggi che indagano la sottile psicologia dei personaggi, superando certe consuetudini dell’opera veristica dell’epoca. Anche nell’orchestrazione è possibile scorgere una versatilità affascinante che va dall’impiego di pochi strumenti, per creare un’atmosfera intima e raccolta, a un’altra più sontuosa da grande orchestra per gli slanci più passionali e lirici. Alla base del libretto di Sem Benelli c’è il dramma omonimo dello stesso scrittore, che nei primi anni del Novecento ebbe un certa notorietà grazie all’interpretazione di grandi attrici come Sarah Bernhardt, diventando poi nel 1941 anche un film di successo di Alessandro Blasetti con Amedeo Nazzari e Clara Calamai, che esibì il primo seno nudo nella storia nel cinema italiano. La cena delle beffe come melodramma ebbe la sua prima proprio alla Scala il 20 dicembre 1924 diretta da Arturo Toscanini con cantanti dal forte temperamento (Benvenuto Franci), dalle grandi capacità espressiva (Hipólito Lázaro) e di avvenente e disinvolta presenza scenica (Carmen Melis). Paolo Di Nicola

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

IL TRITTICO BY PUCCINI 17-24 April Puccini’s Trittico is made up of three one act operas, Il Tabarro, Suor Angelica and Gianni Schicchi which was staged for the first time at the Metropolitan Opera in 1918. Puccini intended all three operas, which have the uifying theme of a death that has been concealed, to be staged at the same time but sometimes they are now separated or paired with another one-act opera. This production is in conjunction with Denmark’s Royal Theatre and the Vienna Theatre is conducted by Daniele Rustione and directed by Damiano Michieletto. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www. operadiroma.it. LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 24 May-30 June This is Sofia Coppola’s debut as a director of opera so it is something of a coup for Rome’s opera house. The production is the idea of Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti and is one of their foundation’s first opera projects. Costumes are designed by Valentino who was behind the choice of Coppola as director after the success of her film Marie Antoinette. Jader Bignamini is conducting with Francesca Dotto and Maria Grazia Schiavo alternating in the role of Violetta and Antonio Poli and Arturo Chacón-Cruz as Alfredo. Dotto received excellent reviews for her interpretation of Violetta earlier this year at La Fenice in Venice, while Maria Grazia Schiavo made her debut in the role only last year at S. Carlo di Napoli. Poli is another young

9 July-10 Aug The operas for the Teatro dell’Opera summer season 2016 at the Baths of Caracalla are Nabucco (9 July-9 Aug), Il Barbierie di Siviglia (18 July-10 Aug), Madame Butterfly (29 July-8 Aug). Nabucco is a new Teatro dell’Opera production. The programme also includes a concert by Lang Lang (3 July) and the traditional ballet gala of Roberto Bolle and friends (25-26 July).

books BOOK SALE AT S. SUSANNA LIBRARY 6-27 April. The S. Susanna Library, the English-language lending library in Rome, is appealing for new members

Tonia White, coordinator at S. Susanna Library.

and volunteers. Attached to the parish of the American Catholic Church in Rome, the library has provided a lending service to the capital’s Englishspeaking readers for over 60 years, and is operated with the assistance of volunteers. The church’s rector Fr Greg Apparcel says: “We need volunteers to come once a month, or once every six weeks, to open the library and serve the community. We also need you to become a member.” The library is holding its next fund-raising book sale, under the title Give a pre-loved book a home, from 6-27 April. Each book will have a donation amount indicated to help cover the library’s operating costs. Library coordinator Tonia White says the categories of books on sale include “drama, religion, biographies, fiction and non-fiction (specifically relating to Italy), mystery, cooking, psychology and young adult fiction. There are also English-language DVD’s and CD talking-books.” The library is located on the second floor of the building to the right of S. Susanna church, and it houses 20,000 titles. To learn more see the library’s pages on Facebook and Twitter, or email Tonia White at susannalibrary@gmail.com. Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30, Fri 13.00-16.00, Sun

10.00-12.30. S. Susanna Church is temporarily closed for renovation and its Masses and events are currently taking place at the nearby Basilica di S. Camillo de Lellis. Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510.

THEATRE TEATRO INDIA Giorni Felici 6-10 April Samuel Beckett’s two-act play Giorni Felici (Happy Days) is centred around Winnie who, although buried up to her waist, continues to waffle about happier days to her henpecked husband Willie. Andrea Renzi directs Nicoletta Braschi and Roberto De Francesco in the starring roles. Il Rosario 12-14 April Power games and oppression in the family are the main themes of Il Rosario which is centred around a tyrannical mother, her daughters and the daily recitation of the rosary. Directors Clara Gebbia and Enrico Roccaforte

rework Federico De Roberto’s Il Rosario with music and song. Magda e lo spavento 19-24 April Magda e lo spavento is the harrowing tale of Magda Goebbels who, along with her husband, Nazi Germany’s propaganda minister Joseph Goebbels, fatally poisoned their six children in their sleep before both committing suicide at the end of world war two. Adapted from Innamorate dello spavento by Massimo Sgorbani, directed by Renzo Martinelli and starring Milutin Dapcevic and Federica Fracassi. All plays in Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 06684000311/14, www.teatrodiroma. net. RAPUNZEL 6-24 April Children’s musical version of the fairytale made famous by the Grimm Brothers in the early 19th century. Starring Alessandra Ferrari and Giulio Corso, directed by Maurizio Colombi. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

Il Rosario at Teatro India.

April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

HAMLET 7-10 April On the 400th anniversary of the death of Shakespeare, the English Theatre of Rome presents one of the Bard’s best loved plays in a fresh re-imagination directed by Douglas Dean and produced by Gaby Ford. The entirely-female cast takes the audience on a rollercoaster of murder, revenge, devotion, manipulation and tragedy, challenging viewers to re-evaluate their previous understanding of this powerful piece of theatre. Featuring Nadia Caretto, Georgia Darell, Marzia Dal Fabbro, Gina Ferrarin, Alessandra Gage, Alashiya Gordes, Chrissie Grant, Jo Kohorst, Anna Mazzotti, Denise McNee, Manuela Parodi, Shannon Riccio and Dyanne White. In English. See article page 10. 7-9 April 20.00, 10 April 17.00, 20.00. For tickets email rometheatre@yahoo.com or text 348/935562. Teatro l’Arciliuto, Piazza

Montevecchio 5, www.rometheatre. com.

S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (off Viale Mazzini), www.romesavoyards.it.

YOU NEVER CAN TELL 19-24 April This 1897 four-act comedy of errors by George Bernard Shaw is a witty and unpredictable play revolving around several confused identities. Returning to England from an extended stay abroad, Mrs Clandon’s three children, Dolly, Phillip and Gloria have no idea who their father is and accidentally end up inviting him to a family lunch. The story is complicated by a love-struck dentist called Valentine who becomes infatuated by a disinterested Gloria. Presented by Wonderwall Entertainment, directed by Michael Fitzpatrick. In English. 19-22 April 20.30, 23-24 April 17.30. For tickets tel. 347/8248661 or email wonderwallenter@gmail.com. Teatro

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 29 April The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity (in English) includes the club’s founder Marsha De Salvatore with regulars Liz Knight and José A. Salgado as well as visiting Londonbased comedian Giada Garafolo. Doors open as usual at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere.

Gaby Ford who founded the English Theatre of Rome 20 years ago.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

ENGLISH THEATRE OF ROME Gaby Ford’s theatre celebrates 20 years The English Theatre of Rome celebrates its 20th anniversary this April. Formerly known as Off Night Repertory, the company was founded in 1996 and is based at Teatro Arciliuto near Piazza Navona. Each season it covers five categories: a classic, a world premiere, a work by a woman author, an Italian premiere and bilingual events. In addition to providing a regular stream of diverse English-language productions, the theatre is recognised for taking risks and embracing the avant-garde. The force behind the operation is Gaby Ford, a free-spirited and straight-talking New Yorker who has been acting in Italy since 1985. Although perhaps best known for her work behind the scenes, this director and drama professor is celebrated for her onstage work too. Those who have seen Ford’s one-woman autobiographical show over the years will attest to that. Described as “a wild and wacky adventure across four continents”, A Broad Abroad is candid and brave, bittersweet and funny, unpredictable and unsuitable-for-minors. Ford’s acting career in Italy, in her own words, has involved “mostly cameo character roles in films and television, typecast usually as a maleducata or malvestita foreigner – whether Brit, Yank, Irish or German, I’m the girl who doesn’t get the boy.” Personal highlights over her theatre’s two decades include a lively adaptation of The Great Gatsby (2012), working with deaf British comedian Steve Day, and collaborating with actor-directors such as Dustin Wills, Douglas Dean and Dyanne White. As Ford’s theatre company nears its 100th production it shows no signs of slowing down. It is currently staging an all-female adaptation of Hamlet which runs until 10 April, see details on page 29.

Rome audiences. Part of Festival Internationale della Danza di Roma 2016. Teatro Olimpico. The theatre may still be shut so consult the website, www.teatroolimpico.it, for more information. BALLETTO DEL SUD 27-28 May The Four Seasons by Fredy Franzutti. This choreography refers not just to the four seasons of the European year but the seasons of a human life. It is inspired by W.H. Auden poetry and the familiar themes from Vivaldi’s music alongside the less familiar melodies of John Cage. Teatro Olimpico. The theatre may still be shut so consult the website, www.teatroolimpico.it, for more information.

academies Eleonora Abbagnato and Stéphane Bullion (seen here in Paris in 2013) dance together in Le Parc at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

dance MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA IL GIARDINO DEGLI AMANTI 9-19 April This is the first staging of this work to music by Mozart and choreography by Massimiliano Volpini with Roberto Bolle and the La Scala ballet company. The setting is in a Baroque villa (sets are by Erika Carretta) where a chamber orchestra plays Mozart quartets and quintets and Mozart’s characters emerge and then mingle and disappear among the guests at the party. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’ OPERA DI ROMA LE PARC 5-11 May Choreogaphy by Angelin Preljocaj with Eleonora Abbagnato and Stéphane Bullion as the principal couple, to music by Mozart. This is the 200607 Teatro della Scala production rather than the original 1990s Paris and Berlin productions. Abbagnato,

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

etoile of the Paris Opera ballet, is now the director of ballet at the Teatro dell’Opera and she performs Le Parc with Bullion, also an etoile of the Paris ballet company, who danced the original version in Paris. TEATRO OLIMPICO ASTRA ROMA BALLET 29 April The company, which was created in 1985 by Diana Ferrara, performs George Sand – Man and Freedom, choreography by Sabrina Massignani. Part of Festival Internationale della Danza di Roma 2016. Teatro Olimpico. The theatre may still be shut so consult the website, www.teatroolimpico.it, for more information. ATERBALLETTO 24-25 May The company, formed by Mauro Bigonzetti and now under the artistic direction of Cristina Bozzolini performs three new choreographes, Sentieri by Philip Kratz; 14” 20’ (the title refers to the length of the piece) which is a reflection on time by Jiri Kylian, and Antitesi by Andonis Foniadakis, a work where the classical meets the contemporary and where opposites confront each other. Both Kratz and Foniadakis are new to

AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 13-14 April A two-day conference focusing on the photographic archives of artists and photographers who documented artistic practice in Italy from the 1960s to the 1980s. Organised in partnership with Roma Tre University and Rome’s Istituto Centrale per la Grafica. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065852151, www. aarome.org. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 15 April Internationally acclaimed South African artist William Kentridge talks about his work with Carolyn ChristovBakargiev, director of the Castello di Rivoli and the Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, Turin. The event is co-organised with the American Academy in Rome and in collaboration with Tevereterno, the organisation promoting Kentridge’s grand-scale mural project Triumphs and Laments which is currently nearing completion along the banks of the river Tiber between Ponte Mazzini and Ponte Sisto. 18.00-19.30. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE 6 Feb-5 June German photographer Barbara Klemm retraces the footsteps of Goethe, capturing the subjects chosen by the poet in their modern settings. On display are 45 black and white photographs, shown alongside a small selection of reproductions

of Goethe’s Italian landscape drawings from the museum’s collection. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

Kapitol by Barbara Klemm at Casa di Goethe.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY IN ROME 1 April-30 June Exhibition relating to the life of Pharaoh Tutankhamon whose tomb was discovered by British archaeologist Howard Carter in 1922. The artefacts on display include 30 reproductions of the original treasures including sarcophagi, jewels, masks, fans and a golden throne, replicating the tomb of Tutankhamon who reigned from 1333 until 1323 BC. The show is in the 220-sqm museum in the basement of Rome’s Egyptian Academy building which underwent extensive renovations five years ago. Egyptian Academy in Rome, Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. FRENCH ACADEMY 18 March-19 June The exhibition Yan Pei-Ming Rome presents the Franco-Chinese artist’s vision of Rome and its history, ruins, popes, politics and films with 24 large-format works, specially conceived for Villa Medici. The show by Yan Pei-Ming, who was a fellow at the French Academy in Rome in 1993-1994, is curated by another distinguished former resident, the art historian Henri Loyrette who has previously served as a director of both the Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre. Born in 1960 in Shanghai and now living in France, Pei-Ming is acclaimed for his “epic-sized” portraits of Mao Zedong and Gaddafi’s Corpse. The exhibition highlights the relationship between the French Academy in Rome, which currently celebrates its 350th anniversary, and its host city. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

William Kentridge speaks at the British School at Rome. Photo Thys Dullaart.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 7-29 April Small groups can avail of free guided tours of the Japanese Cultural Institute’s gardens but bookings can only be made by telephone, tel. 0694844655. The gardens are the work of the renowned designer Ken Nakajima, who was also responsible for the Japanese section of the Orto Botanico in Trastevere. With their cherry trees, wisteria, irises and dwarf pines they feature all the essential elements associated with the Sen-en style, including a waterfall, ponds, an ornamental bridge and a traditional tōrō stone lamp. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

guide to

GARDENS AROUND ROME CASTEL GIULIANO One of the best rose gardens in Lazio is located about 7 km from Bracciano north of Rome. The estate gardens surround the large square three-storey farm castle, which stands on a high island of volcanic tufa rock facing Cerveteri and the sea, and they encompass the church of S. Filippo Neri in the grounds. The planting of the garden is the work of Marchesa Umbertina Patrizi and shows a garden style that is rarely found in public parks in Italy. There are more than 1,000 rose bushes, including fine climbers on the castle walls. Only open for group bookings. This year’s Festa delle Rose takes place on 7-8 May from 10.00-19.00. Palazzo Patrizi, Castel Giuliano, tel. 0699802530, www. castel-giuliano.it. FLORACULT The seventh edition of Floracult, the popular floral and amateur gardening festival, takes place in the La Storta area of north Rome from 22-25 April, from 10.00-19.00. Dozens of exhibitors participate in the four-day festival which brings together Italy’s horticultural experts and the latest gardening trends. Ample parking and free shuttle bus from La Storta station. Admission €8; children under 12 free. Casali del Pino, Via Andreassi 30, La Storta, Via Cassia km 15, tel. 345/9356761, www. floracult.com. LA MORTELLA On the island of Ischia off the coast of Naples is an oasis of tropical and Mediterranean plants. The gardens were created in 1958 by Susana Walton, the wife of English composer Sir William Walton. La Mortella is divided into two areas: the valley garden and the hill garden. The valley, designed by celebrated English landscape architect Russell Page, is shady, luxuriant and tropical whilst the hill, designed by Lady Walton, is sunny and Mediterranean. The garden design takes advantage of the sea views and is enriched by fountains. Open until 1 November, on Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun from 09.00-19.00. La Mortella also organises open-air concerts of classical music in its Greek Theatre which overlooks the sea. Via Francesco Calise 39, Forio d’Ischia (NA), tel. 081986220, www. lamortella.org. LANDRIANA The Primavera della Landriana, the annual garden fair and horticultural sale,

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

Ninfa

takes place at the Landriana gardens south of Rome from 22-25 April, from 10.00-19.00. The ten-hectare gardens were created in the 1950s by owner Marchesa Lavinia Taverna Gallarati Scotti with the help of Russell Page. Now considered the most important postwar garden in Italy, Landriana contains 32 secret spaces and walks including one planted entirely with Mutabilis roses. Driving from Rome, take Via Pontina or the coastal road to Ardea, or by train on the Rome-Nettuno line to Campo di Carne. Via Campo di Carne 51, Tor S. Lorenzo, Ardea, tel. 0691014140, www.giardinidellalandriana.it.

Landriana

NINFA This romantic English-style garden spread over eight hectares was built by the Caetani family at the start of the 20th century on the ruins of the mediaeval town of Ninfa. The garden is open, without obligatory booking, from 27 March-6 November on the first Saturday and Sunday of the month, on the third Sunday of June and the first Sunday in November. This year it is open every Sunday in April and May. However groups (minimum of 30 people) that book a guided tour can visit the gardens all year round. Ninfa is part of the natural monument of the same

name established by the Lazio region in 2000. Fondazione Roffredo Caetani Onlus, Via della Fortezza 04010 Sermoneta (Ninfa), www.fondazionecaetani.org. ORTO BOTANICO This botanic garden is located in the heart of Trastevere, behind Palazzo Corsini and across from the Villa Farnesina, on a 12-hectare sloping site filled with palms, yucca and terraces with gravel paths. Established in 1883 after the Corsini family donated it to the Italian government, it is now run by the University of Rome La Sapienza. The gardens host over 3,500 species of plants, including specially-cultivated species in danger of extinction in the wild, and feature a scent-and-touch garden for the visually impaired. Open every day except Sunday until 29 Oct 09.00-18.30, and from 30 Oct-31 Dec 09.00-17.30. Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, Trastevere, tel. 0649917106, s we b 0 1 . d bv. u n i ro m a 1 . i t / o r t o. PONTIFICAL GARDENS OF CASTEL GANDOLFO The Barberini gardens at Castel Gandolfo are located in the Alban hills about 25 km south-east of the capital, and have spectacular views over Lake Albano. The 30-hectare papal gardens feature ancient Roman ruins dating back to Emperor Domitian as well as a square of holly oaks, paths of roses and aromatic herbs, and a magnolia garden. The 55-hectare site, which includes a 25-hectare Vatican farm, has acted as a papal retreat since the 17th century but in 2014 was opened to the public by Pope Francis for the first time. The 1.5-hour guided tours of the Barberini gardens are held Mon-Sat at 08.30, 10.30 and 11.30. Tours can be booked by emailing visiteguidat-

Pontifical Gardens

egruppi.musei@scv.va, full visiting information on the Vatican Museums website www.mv.vatican.va. ROSETO COMUNALE Rome’s municipal rose garden on the Aventine hill generally opens from 21 April until 15 June. There are two separate sections overlooking the Palatine hill and Circo Massimo: the upper garden with its collection of classic “old roses”, and the lower garden featuring the entries of the prestigious annual international rose competition known as the Premio Roma, which this year takes place on 14 May, and a collection of winning roses from previous years. The gardens will be closed on the day of the prize-giving but from the next day onwards the public can admire the winning specimens. The Roseto is home to over 1,000 varieties including a green-blossomed rose from China. Daily 08.30-19.30. Via di Valle Murcia 6, tel. 065746810, rosetoromacapitale@comune.roma.it.

among the most famous in the world. Water from the nearby river Aniene is channeled under the town of Tivoli to feed the gardens’ vast range of spectacular fountains, including the celebrated organ fountain. Cascades, pools, water staircases, grottoes and nymphs are revealed at every turn. The villa has a bar and restaurant on the terrace overlooking the gardens and there is a bookshop. Open daily, except Monday, from 08.30, with last entry in April at 18.30, and at 18.45 in the summer months until September. For full details see website. Piazza Trento 5, Tivoli, tel. 199766166, villadestetivoli@teleart.org. Orto Botanico

VILLA D’ESTE Built for the Cardinal Ippolito D’Este around 1555, these complex renaissance water gardens in Tivoli are

Roseto Comunale

April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Page written by and for younger Wanted in Rome readers

WANTED IN ROME Junior

This pretend-interview with Judy Boone, a character with Asperger’s Syndrome from The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time, was written by 14-year-old Gennaro Fusillo whose English Literature class at Marymount International School has been studying the 2003 mystery novel by British writer Mark Haddon. The book has also been adapted into an acclaimed theatrical production, by Simon Stephens and directed by Marianne Elliott, which has been staged at both Broadway and the West End, winning seven Olivier Awards including Best Play. I arrived at Mrs Boone’s house at three o’clock. After I rang the doorbell twice, she opened the door and welcomed me in with a nervous smile. It was quite obvious that she was feeling uncomfortable and that she wanted to make a good impression on me. She led me to her living room and invited me to sit down. Then she asked me if I wanted a cup of tea. I gratefully accepted and waited a few minutes while she brought it. When she finally sat down, I noticed that she was wearing a lilac dress with pink flowers. Her hair was tied behind her ears, but a few strands of brown hair had escaped and framed her face. I couldn’t help but notice that she was fidgeting with her hands, and she kept looking around the room as if to check that everything was in order. After a few pleasantries designed to put her at ease, I decided to start my interview.

Q: When was the first time you noticed that your son was affected by Asperger’s syndrome? A: I don’t really remember the exact moment. I started seeing different signs when he was just a little boy. However, I think the moment he started kindergarten, everything became clear. The teachers called us because they noticed that he wouldn’t interact with the other children, and that he would even hit them if they got too close to him or tried to touch him. So, my ex-husband and I decided to take him to the doctor and that’s when we found out the truth. Q: What was your favourite memory of Christopher growing up? A: I vividly remember a Christmas we bought Christopher a train set. He was so happy he refused to go to sleep that night because he wanted to keep playing. He was obsessed with it for a while. Ed and I explained to him about timetables and he loved that part so much he made his own. You see, he always likes to know the exact time. This is probably my favourite memory of him as a child. Q: Was it difficult to raise a child with this condition? What was the hardest part? A: Yes, raising a child with this condition wasn’t easy. For a very long time I believed I wasn’t a good enough mother to Christopher, but the truth

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

is I did my best. Ed was always better at it than I was. Christopher wasn’t an easy child to bring up. He frequently threw tantrums, for example, when I had to prepare his meals. I don’t know if you know this, but Christopher hates the colours yellow and brown, so he always refused to eat anything with that colour. I admit that it was very tiring for me at times. The worst part was that I couldn’t explain my feelings to him so we always ended up arguing. Q: I know that you left your family a few years ago. Do you regret your decision? A: At the time, I thought that was the best for them and for myself. I needed a break from that life and I thought that Christopher would have been better off with his father. However, I now realize I was wrong and there is not a day that goes by in which I don’t regret having left my son. I am glad though that we were able to rebuild our relationship. Q: So, you have now mended your relationship with your son. What activities do you do together? A: Christopher and I don’t really have a lot of things in common. He really likes math and science, which I admit are not my best subjects. However, I do enjoy spending time with him. Sometimes we watch the nature programs on TV together, while other times I take him with me at the garden centre and

Marymount International School.

we look at the different plants. He always knows a lot of stuff about them. Q: I know it must have been extremely difficult for a mother not to be able to have physical contact with her son. As we both know, children with autism frequently dislike hugging, kissing or contact of any kind. How did you overcome this problem? A: It wasn’t easy by any means, especially at first. It took some getting used to. Even now, sometimes I forget that I am not supposed to hug him. To make up for it, Ed and I came up with a sign all of our own. We spread our hands in a fan and touch our finger tips likes this [she demonstrates]. It seems a little silly at first but its special to us and Christopher knows we love him when we do that. Q: Christopher is doing a lot better now. I know he has passed his Further Maths for A level exam with flying colours and he is headed for university in a couple of years. What do you think has helped him most? A: I am so proud of Christopher right now. He was able to reach his goal and pursue his interest in math. I think his teachers at the school, particularly Miss

Siobhan, have helped him a lot. His trip to London a few years back also helped him gain confidence in himself and has encouraged him to do even better. Q: You suffered from depression a few years ago. It must have been very difficult for you to accept that life would never be the same now that you had to take care of a child with disabilities. How did you surmount that obstacle? What advice can you give to other parents with children who suffer from autism? A: As I have said before, raising a child with autism was very difficult for me. It put a strain on my relationship with my husband and caused me to severely doubt myself. There were days I thought I was completely invisible in my house, since I felt that no one understood how I felt. That was the lowest moment of my life. Now, however, I have learned how to control my emotions better and take better care of myself. It is still hard sometimes, but I have learned how to appreciate the good times more. My advice to other parents is to take it one day at a time. Some days will be difficult and will make you want to tear your hair out, but seeing your child grow up will make up for all of it.

By now it was past four o’clock (4:14 pm as Christopher would say). I bid my farewell to Mrs Boone and thanked her for her time. As I was walking to my car, I saw a young teenage boy walk to the house. He was carrying a book on physics and was so caught up in it he didn’t even notice I was there. Who knows, maybe one day I’ll see that boy again. At that time, he might have become a renowned scientist, or maybe even an astronaut. Gennaro Fusillo

Wanted in Rome is accepting contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 900 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s cultural

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www. aarome.org.

French Academy

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com. British School at Rome

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov. br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

FINNISH ACADEMY The Finnish Academy provides a base for Finnish students and researchers working in Italy, as well as promoting Finland’s work in the arts and humanities. Villa Lante, Passeggiata del Gianicolo 10, tel. 0668801674, www. irfrome.org.

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk.

FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org.

GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kulturinternational.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in

American Academy

April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Danish Academy

particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 3, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www. hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723, www.istitutopolacco.it.

tre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. Belgian Academy

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137. SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research cen-

Romanian Academy

Look for more classified ads on www.wantedinrome.com

classified

COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town APARTMENT FOR RENT IN THE HISTORIC CENTRE. 5 minute walk to the Colosseum. The apartment was nicely refurbished into a modern and spacious flat (140 sqm). It consists of an entrance area, living room, dining room, dinette, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, laundry room (w/washer and dryer), full kitchen w/dishwasher, air conditioning throughout, alarm system, hard wood floors in all rooms except kitchen and bathrooms. The apartment is available as of 15 July for long-term rental. For further information please contact Mr. Celon, cell. 335 / 5284767. Photos available here https://apartmentviadelboschetto. shutterfly.com/pictures. CASSIA - PANORAMIC APARTMENT NEXT TO AMERICAN OVERSEAS SCH. 125 sqm, 5th floor, 360 degree panoramic view over Insugherata Natural Park, just modernised, completely furnished, living room, 3bedrooms, 2bathrooms, eatin furnished kitchen, carport, 2terraces. Facilities: Custodian, parking, park, soccer field. It is available direct access to Insugherata Park. HEART OF TRASTEVERE 100 M FROM PIAZZA S. MARIA. Living room, bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, balcony, ceiling, cotto floor, fire place. TV set, Wi-Fi - 24/24, washing machine, air-conditioning etc. Free from

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

1 March 2016. €1.300 all included. Tel. 335 / 6090827, mail sylcouppe@ hotmail.it.

enette. Short lets. €1.100 all inclusive. Tel. 338 / 9679731, marilu_vitali@ yahoo.it.

MANZONI AREA. Furnished, independent, with cooking facilities, studio flat for single person, €500 monthly for minimum of 6 months or more. Email: dellascala4@gmail.com.

TRASTEVERE E CAMPO DE FIORI. Campo de Fiori Trastevere deliziosi appartamenti arredati monolocali e bilocali, brevi e lunghi soggiorni a partire da €350/settimana, €900/ mese. Contact rose@romerenting. com.

PRATI CLOSE TO VATICAN. Furnished 90 sqm apartment, three bedrooms, open living, kitchen, bathroom, 2 balconies, elevator, 9th floor, fast Wi-Fi, 10 min walk Ottaviano station Metro Line A / bus. Wonderful view of St Peter’s cupola and close to district food market. Marina.a.j7@ gmail.com. TRASTEVERE. Elegant, furnished, all conforts. Bright. Inner court yard. Big living room, bedroom, bathroom with shower, kitch-

Wanted in Rome does not accept responsibility for the content of the advertisements it publishes. CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza

Office hours: Mon – Fri 10.00 – 16.00. Orari ufficio: lun – ven 10.00 – 16.00.

PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione

Sun 24 April Sun 22 May

Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

Wed 4 May Wed 1 June

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

TRASTEVERE - S. COSIMATO. CHARMING, COSY APARTMENT. Apartment furnished, short term rent. One double bedroom on two levels with a study area, living room with double sofa bed, dinette kitchen, bathroom with tub. Visible on www.airbnb.it/ rooms/11055843. €1.250 monthly. Mob. +39 3385779670. VILLA FOR RENT ON CASSIA. Within easy reach of the American Overseas & Marymount International School, this villa features a private garden and spectacular view on the Insugherata Park. Just off Cassia, it is near S. Pietro Hospital and Corso Francia / Ponte Milvio. 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 balconies, a sun terrace, we rent partially furnished for 3 years. Ideal for families and a paradise for your dog. Please contact Federico Angeloni by WhatsApp, tel. 3337817703.

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

Accommodation vacant out of town

CASAL DO’ BASO SUMMER LETS. North of Rome spacious 3 bedroom/3 bathroom apartment in villa, private pool. Visit www.casaldobaso.com. SUTRI HISTORIC TOWER. Sutri 50 km N Rome roomy, fully restored beautifully furnished mediaeval tower living w/fireplace big kitchen 2 bedrooms 2 baths small study terrace short or long period. Contact judyharris123@ gmail.com. TIVOLI - MANDELA. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €500 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Jobs vacant ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT / SECRETARY. Prestigious International law firm is looking for an Accounting Assistant / Secretary for its Rome Office.In order to apply the candidate must have: International law firm environment experience - Diploma in accounting or equivalent - Two years experience as an assistant accountant - Familiarity with the general secretarial activities. He/she will be working mainly with accounts payable, accounts receivable, bank reconciliation and budgeting.Excellent knowledge of Excel, Word and PowerPoint is required. Fluent written and spoken English language is a must. Autonomy, precision, flexibility and confidentiality are required. During the interview accounting, general computer skills, and English levels will be tested. Applicants should send a CV authorizing personal data treatment pursuant to Legislative Decree

no. 196/03. Only CVs written in English will be considered. Contact wantedinrome.aassistant@gmail.com.

065826540 / 0658203082 www.studioemmeagency.com / www.studioemme.net.

ENGLISH TRAINER. The Language Grid is seeking highly motivated, university educated Business English trainers. We offer long term national contracts, holiday pay, bonus and benefits, as well as career progression and training. Apply via email: info@ thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter.

LOOKING FOR BAR TENDER. Looking for bar tender with experience. English speaking. Needed urgently for prestigious Roman bar. Please take CV directly to Bar Perù on Via di Monserrato 46 or send email raggiovanni@ yahoo.com.

EXPERIENCED, FUN NATIVE ENGLISH TEACHER WANTED. For private afternoon lessons, 1.30h twice a week in central Rome. The student is a male teenager with a rudimentary knowledge of the language. Please call +39 0697610631 to set up an interview. FINANCE ASSISTANT WANTED. The Multinational Force and Observers (MFO), an International Peacekeeping Organization, is seeking a Finance Assistant for its Rome Headquarters to assist the Disbursing Officer in accounts payable, staff compensation and treasury functions, as well as maintain the Travel Management application and conduct ad hoc projects. The ideal candidate should be a graduate from high school and have at least 2 years office experience in accountancy and knowledge of computerized systems, particularly SAP, and of MS Office applications.Italian working papers/EU citizenship required, as well as fluency in English and Italian. A two-year renewable contract with full benefits will be offered.Send full resume by e-mail to:MFO Personnel Officeemail@mfo.org. IMPORTANT CASTING IN ROME. Studio Emme, Talent Agency in Rome, is urgently looking for new talents or young bilingual (speaking Italian - English) actors and actresses 13-18 years old, for Lead role in prestigious tv series. New talents also (no experience). Please email to saramartinellistudioemme@gmail.com

MOTHERTONGUE QUALIFIED ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIRED. Mothertongue qualified English teachers required for company courses in Anagnina area and Rome centre. Please send CV to info@trainingclub. com. QUALIFIED MOTHER TONGUE ESL TEACHER FOR IMMEDIATE EMPLOYMENT. Private language school of English in Rome, Italy is seeking full/ part time teachers for the 2015/16 academic year in state schools. CELTA or equivalent teaching certificate required. Celtyl is a plus. Competitive salary/contract and vast resource center available for teachers. Only Native speakers. Send CV and cover letter to didactics@inenglish.it. RELOCATION ASSOCIATE. Principal Relocation Company seeks motivated, focused and goal oriented individual to work as a Relocation Associate. Experience in the relocation and/ or immigration field an advantage, but not essential as full training will be given. Fluency in English and Italian is essential. Please send resume/ photo to careers@principalrelocation. com with ref: RA-RM. Only residents of Rome need apply. This is a junior entry-level position. THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME IS LOOKING TO HIRE A BUSINESS ANALYST. The selected candidate will be required to participate in the annual University budget planning processes and produce specialized budget/actual reports, also con-

solidating information and data from different systems and sources within the University. He/she will be capable of providing advice to management on options to correct negative variances, be proactive in improving processes and methodologies to enable better reporting, analysis and financial advice.The ideal candidate must have at least two years of experience in a similar position, a University degree in EconomicsBusiness Administration or Business Management, excellent knowledge of financial and managerial accounting, strong planning and analytical skills. He/she must be able to visualize and simplify complex data sets, must be computer literate with excellent knowledge of Excel (including Pivot Tables). Experience with SQL and relational databases. Required fluency in Italian and English (written and verbal). A resume (quote re: FO1/2016), with at least 1 reference contact, is to be submitted by e-mail to humanresources@aur.edu or by fax to +39 0658330992. Interviews will start as soon as possible and will be on-going until position is filled. AUR is an equal opportunity employer. URGENTLY LOOKING FOR AN EXPERIENCED ENGLISH TEACHER FOR KIDS. Due to moving abroad I am urgently looking for an experienced English teacher for kids in order to teach English to our children, 6,9 and 11 yrs. We live in zona Aurelio/Villa Pamphili. If possible lessons should take place 1-2 a week or at weekends, preferably American native speaker. Please contact Daniela: 320 / 755 7912. lessons HELP TO PREPARE FOR A LEVEL AQA BUSINESS STUDIES EXAM. I’m 22, taking A level AS and A2 Business Studies exam in summer. Studied on Open College programme but need help in final months to prepare for exams. Please contact me via email on cell 347 / 1125113. April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Poetry EMERGENCY ROOM. Once upon a time there was a doctor with his bag and baggage. He went door to door to look after our health, we were proud of him and the cold disappeared. Today there are millions of doctors with their bag and baggage. They go door to door to look after our health we are proud of them but if now the cold doesn’t disappear please take care of Ebola disease. sernicolimarco@gmail. com. MUSIC. Your heart beat like the beat of a percussion. The difference is which doesn’t play. Loves. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. PARIS, JANUARY 2015. We will say that you are bad killers, we will combat you with our big sense of freedom. We won’ t permit you to take possession of our hope, we won’t surprised if

somebody could assert that the massacre at charlie hebdo is just a little weirdo. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Property for sale OUT OF town

RUSSIA AGAINST UKRAINE. It is anything but gas, probably is.......SPUTIN. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

FLAT IN CASAPE ROMA. Flat in the Castle Newly Remodeled Fully Furnished 1 hour from Roma 60 sqm ready to move into. Contact info@ personalshopperroma.it.

WITHOUT TITLE. What can I do to catch a happy whiff? I will go to St Peter’s to visit at the distance the Sovereign Pontiff and pray for me till sweep away the insolence to feel sick instead to release the brain listen like yesterday the songs of Dionne Warwick. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Rooms and flat shares

Property for sale in town

TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfortable and well equipped + kitchen use. Including internet. Tel. 339 / 7857565. Available as from March.

PRIMA PORTA SALE. Sunny two bedroom apartment 68m with garden 400m including a granny flat 34m. Easy walk from train station. Contact michael.kornel@iol.it.

April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 338 / 5094448 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

cinemas The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Alcazar Via Merry del Val 14, tel. 065880099 Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

April 2016 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Jewish Reform Group in Rome Congregation Lev Chadash, Piazza della Libertà 10, tel. 339 / 3824815, Shabbat services at 10.00, Friday night service once a month Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | April 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it