Wanted in Rome - May 2016 by Wanted in Rome

may 2016 â&#x201A;Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 5

contents

titolo

no. 5 / may 2016 editorials

COUNTING DOWN TO ROME ELECTIONS Laura Clarke. . . . . . . . . . 2 TRIUMPHS AND LAMENTS Andy Devane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 THE CAPITOLINE FROM HEAD TO TOE Martin Bennett. . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 FESTIVALS OUT OF TOWN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Opera notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 MISCELLANY MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 BEACHES AROUND ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 ROME’s cultural academies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 1 June and 6 July. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 22 May (for 1 June) and 26 June (for 6 July). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine. Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 02/05/2016

Lupa, detail from Triumphs and Laments by William Kentridge. See article page 6. Photo by Andy Devane. Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

31 May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

politics

Laura Clarke

COUNTING DOWN TO ROME ELECTIONS

here are currently six main candidates in the running for the post of Rome mayor in local elections on 5 June, with the second-round ballot scheduled for 19 June. However, it is just possible that one or more might withdraw or join forces with a competitor in a bid to avoid vote dispersal. At the time of going to press Silvio Berlusconi was considering pulling his support from Guido Bertolaso and throwing it behind Giorgia Meloni. The candidates’ names and photos appear in alphabetical order. Guido Bertolaso, 66, centre-right candidate with shaky support from ex prime minister and leader of Forza Italia Silvio Berlusconi, head of Italy’s civil protection department from 1996 to 1997 and from 2001 to 2010. A doctor by profession specialising in tropical diseases, he spent his early career in various parts of Africa and in Cambodia before returning to Italy in the 1980s to oversee medical aid to developing countries at the foreign ministry. He served as deputy executive director of the UN children’s agency UNICEF from 1993 to 1995 and as deputy commissioner for the 2000 Holy Year preparations in Rome. As civil protection chief

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

he handled the city’s arrangements for Pope John Paul II’s funeral in 2005, the L’Aquila earthquake emergency in April 2009 and the G8 summit in the Abruzzo regional capital the following July and the Naples rubbish crisis, among other things. Prone to making gaffes, he is on trial for multiple manslaughter in relation to alleged reassurances given to the local population

before the 2009 earthquake and for corruption in relation to preparations for the G8 summit, which was initially due to be held in Sardinia. Stefano Fassina, 50, economist and candidate of the small left-wing movement Sinistra Italiana (SI) under the campaign slogan La meglio Roma (The best Rome). As an economist he has

Guido Bertolaso

politics held various positions in government institutions, as well as working for five years for the International Monetary Fund in Washington, DC. He began his political career in 2009 as coordinator on economic issues for the Partito Democratico (PD) and was elected to the chamber of deputies in 2013. He served as deputy economy minister in the unity government led by Enrico Letta until January 2014, when he resigned after coming into collision course with the newly elected PD secretary and future prime minister Matteo Renzi. He went on to become one of Renziâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s staunchest critics within the party, before eventually breaking ranks to form SI along with Sinistra Ecologia LibertĂ (SEL) in November 2015. Roberto Giachetti, 55, centre-left candidate considered close to Renzi. Current deputy speaker of the chamber of deputies, former chief of cabinet in the city administration led by Francesco Rutelli (1993-2001). Following early militancy in the Radical Party he co-founded the now defunct centreleft Margherita before jumping onto the new PD bandwagon in 2007. He is a regular hunger striker and takes a particular interest in human and civil rights, the conditions in Italian jails, environmental protection and sustainable development. He is also passionate about institutional regulations and has earned a reputation for knowing the rules governing the chamber of deputies like the back of his hand. He has been an MP since 2001 but his parliamentary activity has always been accompanied by initiatives aimed at encouraging grass-roots participation especially among young people. Alfio Marchini, 51, financier and entrepreneur running on a civic list under the slogan Io ci metto il cuore (I put my heart into it) with backing from junior government partner Nuovo Centrodestra (NCD). He took over the fami-

Stefano Fassina

Roberto Giacchetti

Alfio Marchini

May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

politics ly construction business in 1988, shortly before graduating in civil engineering aged 23. He has historical ties to the former Italian Communist Party through his late grandfather Alfio, a member of a partisan group (GAP) during the second world war, but he also has many friends on the political right and is a practicing Catholic with alleged links to Opus Dei. In the mid 1990s he served briefly on the board of directors of state broadcaster RAI and as president of its then adverting arm SIPRA, and he is also an ex board member of several banks. He is the president of the Italian board of the Shimon Peres Centre for Peace and is a founding member of two Italian political think-tank organisations. He is the former captain of Italy’s national polo team. He was elected to Rome city council on a civic list after making an unsuccessful bid for the mayorship in 2013. As a sports enthusiast he is a strong supporter of Rome’s bid for the 2024 Olympic Games. Giorgia Meloni, 39, candidate of the small right-wing party Fratelli d’Italia (FdI), of which she is president, with support from the Eurosceptic and antiimmigrant Lega Nord (LN). She began her political career in the student arm of right-wing Alleanza Nazionale (AN), and was first elected to parliament with the party in 2006. She served as deputy speaker of the chamber of deputies from 2006 to 2008 and as minister for youth in the fourth Berlusconi government from 2008 to 2011, becoming the youngest person ever to hold such positions. She left Berlusconi’s Popolo della Libertà (PdL) – a party formed in 2009 from the merger of AN and Forza Italia – to create FdI in 2012. She is expecting her first child this summer. At the time of going to print it looked as though she might get renewed support from her one-time mentor Berlusconi. Virginia Raggi, 37, candidate of the anti-establishment Movimento Cinque

Giorgia Meloni

Virginia Raggi

Stelle (M5S) under the slogan Roma ai Romani (Rome for the Romans). She is a civil lawyer specialising in intellectual property and did her legal apprenticeship in the Rome firm of lawyers founded by ex defence minister and former Berlusconi aide Cesare Previti, a convicted criminal. A mother of one with a passion for two-wheeled travel, she joined M5S in 2011 and was elected to Rome city council in 2013. She is opposed to Rome’s bid to host the 2024 Olympic

Games and says she wants a “frank” relationship with Renzi if elected. An opinion poll published by Corriere della Sera newspaper on 2 April put Raggi in the lead with 27.5 per cent, followed by Giachetti with 22.5 per cent, Meloni with 20 per cent, Bertolaso with 12 per cent and Marchini with 6.5 per cent. In the likely event of a run-off Raggi also looked set to prevail over all her competitors, with her hardest battle predicted to be against Meloni. May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Art

Andy Devane

TRIUMPHS AND LAMENTS

William Kentridge triumphs with Tiber mural after years of bureaucratic delays

“E

very country has both a heroic history and a shameful history,” noted the internationally acclaimed South African artist William Kentridge during a press conference in Rome last September. “Someone’s triumph is somebody else’s lament.” Kentridge was speaking at the MACRO contemporary art museum on Via Nizza during the launch of his monumental mural project, along the banks of the river Tiber, whose in-

auguration in late April made headlines around the world. Entitled Triumphs and Laments, the 550m-long frieze from Ponte Mazzini downstream to Ponte Sisto was created by power-washing the almost vertical embankment walls to form silhouettes of figures from three millennia of tumultuous Roman history. The unusual process led to the emergence of a procession of some 80 figures, blasted clean through the thick dark patina of

the stone walls, an accumulated mixture of fungi and man-made pollution. The technique involved spraying water through huge stencils, based on Kentridge’s original charcoal drawings, which were attached to the blackened walls. The resulting grey-brown figures, some as high as 12 metres, are set against the newly white travertine background, enlivened by random flourishes of yellow lichen, nature’s unpredictable way of injecting a splash of colour.

William Kentridge’s project Triumphs and Laments on the embankment walls between Ponte Sisto and Ponte Mazzini. Photos Leon Perez.

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

ART Kentridge’s grandiose project opened at dusk on 21 April with a theatrical performance of dance, shadow play and music composed especially for the occasion by fellow South African and long-time collaborator Philip Miller. Two dance groups – one symbolising triumph, the other lamentation – converged against the backdrop of the frieze, their dances interwoven with chants and music by more than 40 musicians and vocalists, with four replications of the event held on 21 and 22 April. The date of the inauguration was no coincidence – Rome’s 2,769th birthday – and neither was the project’s central location between the Vatican and the Jewish ghetto district. Kentridge says the epic frieze is placed between “the fortune of the popes” on one side, and “the suffering of the Jewish ghetto” on the other. As an artist of Jewish heritage, Kentridge has particular empathy for the tragedies that befell Rome’s Jews who were confined to the tiny ghetto until 1870 and then deported en masse to concentration camps during world war two. The 60-year-old artist from Johannesburg describes his project as “a commentary on the flawed nature of memory, both individual and collective”, with inspiration gained from the Tiber: “a river swollen with glory and pain.” Heralded by its organisers, the non-profit association Tevereterno, as the largest work of art created in Rome since the Sistine Chapel, the procession explores the city’s sorrows and jubilations, traversing through mythology to recent times. Kentridge’s sequence of events is not depicted in chronological order, rather it is designed as a way of uniting historic figures from Rome and Italy “for a conversation on the riverbank.” Centurions, legionaries and victorious emperors such as Marcus Aurelius rub shoulders with Roman orator Cicero, fascist dictator Benito Mussolini and the lupa or she-wolf (see magazine

Kentridge at work on Triumphs and Laments with some of the drawings in his Johannesburg studio. Photo Marc Shoul.

cover) that suckled Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders of Rome. Included too are the murdered bodies of former Italian prime minister Aldo Moro and film director Pier Paolo Pasolini, alongside Marcello Mastroianni kissing Anita Ekberg in the Trevi Fountain scene from the Fellini classic La Dolce Vita. Kentridge also documents the death of 19-year-old student Giorgiana Masi, killed by a stray bullet during a demonstration on nearby Ponte Garibaldi in 1977, while the current migrant crisis off Italy’s southern coast is referenced by a Roman slave galley. Ephemerality is central to Kentridge’s vanishing vision which “will fade in five to 10 years as the embankment walls gradually turn dark again with pollution, moss and lichen.” The artistic director of Triumphs and Laments is Kristen Jones, the founder and honourary president of Tevereterno. It was Jones who invited Kentridge to consider creating a work for the space; she also devised the silhouette stencil method for the scheme which she describes as both site-specific and “placemaking”. The Piazza Tevere site between the two bridges is poised to become one of Europe’s largest public spaces for contemporary

art, according to Jones, a long-term Rome resident originally from Washington DC. However it wasn’t all plain sailing for the project which was long delayed in recent years by bureaucratic obstacles from a regional office of the Italian culture ministry. The uncertainty faced by Tevereterno was in spite of the project having the support of the capital and the Lazio region, the verbal support of then culture minister Massimo Bray, and being fully compliant with governmental regulations for the protection of historical monuments. However, thanks to the doggedness of Tevereterno the red tape was overcome with the help of an enthusiastic Giovanna Marinelli – Rome’s former culture councillor under Ignazio Marino – and Italy’s current culture minister Dario Franceschini. The fact that Italy came so close to losing out on an art work of this scale by an artist of the calibre of Kentridge was doubly embarrassing – lamentable even – considering that Rome was not required to foot the bill. Triumphs and Laments is privately funded, with the city providing support by supplying the cleaning equipment. Ahead of the inauguration Kentridge May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

art engaged in a blitz of interviews with the media, attending a succession of thronged speaking events and exhibition openings. Dozens of disappointed people were turned away from a talk he gave at the British School at Rome (BSR) on 15 April. With his trademark panama hat, white shirt and pince-nez glasses, Kentridge has a distinguished air about him. In front of audiences he is assured and affable, eloquent and charming. His conversation – particularly in relation to the Tiber project – is peppered with the word “Renaissance”, whose adjective form could be applied to Kentridge himself. His interdisciplinary work bridges visual art, film, opera, theatre and philosophy, while his “ferociously sharp intellect” was noted by BSR director Christopher Smith. This is the largest artistic endeavour to date by Kentridge who compared the process to unwinding the images from Trajan’s Column and “stretching them out like a strip of film.” Although perhaps more impressive and effective when viewed from the opposite bank, it is only when one stands directly below the figures that their sheer immensity becomes evident. There is no doubt regarding the depth of thought, skill, imagination and perseverance behind the work, which has been hailed, justifiably, as a masterpiece. Its composition is measured and balanced, neither too cluttered nor too void; it is both organic and appropriate for its location. The danger with an undertaking such as this, however, is that it “shows up” neighbouring areas, in this case the embankment on the opposite side. Prior to a major volunteer-led clean-up just days before the inauguration, the left bank contained several makeshift campsites, complete with washing lines and impromptu cooking facilities. Pigeons pecked at pots and pans. The buckled pavement was in a wild state, its vegetation fertilised by the rich alluvial mud from winter floods,

resembling more an abandoned canal towpath in the countryside than the riverbank of a major European capital. Here too, Kentridge has triggered his magic Renaissance effect. But for all its dreamlike beauty Triumphs and Laments remains grounded in Rome’s gritty urban reality – the steps down to the Tiber, particularly on the Trastevere side – reek of stale urine, the nearby walls are covered in graffiti, smog and weeds. Kentridge acknowledged this juxtaposition to the Italian newspaper La Repubblica, saying: “Above....a pulsating, splendid city; below, under the bridges, the desperation of the homeless.” Already a much-photographed landmark, Kentridge’s magnum opus will undoubtedly lead to a surge in art tourism – some of it by boat – in tandem with Rome’s burgeoning street art scene. The publicity generated by the project will also help Tevereterno in its worthy quest to rejuvenate the Tiber, a valuable Roman asset neglected for far too long. In the meantime Piazza Tevere’s magnificent frieze is shared by a tranquil community of cyclists, joggers, fishermen and ducks, its reflection seized by a river swollen with glory and pain.

TEVERETERNO

Founded in 2004, Tevereterno is led by artists, architects and planners working in parallel with the city to reanimate the Tiber with cultural events. Since 2005 it has overseen public programmes along the river banks by acclaimed international artists such as Jenny Holzer, Steve Reich, Kiki Smith, Roberto Catani and Walter Branchi, wwww.tevereterno.it.

MACRO

17 April-2 Oct. William Kentridge: Triumphs and Laments: a project for Rome, an exhibition of more than 80 works in charcoal, pastel and ink, as well as cut-outs and videos, which led to the project’s final designs. Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.org.

TIBER EMBANKMENTS

One of the largest public works programmes ever undertaken in Rome, started by Garibaldi to save the city from the usually devastating spring and autumn flooding. Commemorative plaques in the city centre, especially around the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, indicate the level of the 1870 floods.

The ant-like figures on the embankment path opposite Lungotevere Farnesina give an idea of the scale of Kentridge’s frieze. May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

HISTORY

Martin Bennett

THE CAPITOLine FROM HEAD TO TOE

Review of the Myth, Memory, Archaeology exhibition in Palazzo dei Conservatori

“G

oing – Going – Gone.” In the case of Turner’s Modern Rome: the Campo Vaccino which was sold for £29.7 million after five minutes of bidding at Sotheby’s in London. The canvas (complete with gilded Rococo frame chosen by the artist) was snapped up by the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles in 2010. Now until 19 June the painting has returned home, not to Britain but to Rome, the spot where it was, if not painted, at least conceived. No exhibition could stage a more splendid entrance. “The sun is God,” declares Turner in the deathbed scene in Mike Leigh’s recent film. Perhaps this very picture was flashing across the mind’s eye of the dying artist. One can see what he means. Painted in 1839, a decade on from sketches made during Turner’s last Roman visit, the work is infused with a “visionary gleam”, and, to echo Wordsworth again, a consummate example of “emotion recollected in tranquility.” Turner, however, chose another Romantic – Lord Byron – to provide a

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

Modern Rome. Campo vaccino by Turner is the focal point of the exhibition.

subtitle. “The moon is up and yet it is not night,/ the sun as yet divides the day with her.” The Arch of Septimius Severus, Cortona’s Baroque dome of the S. Luca e Martina church, Massenzio’s Basilica and Titus’s Arch at the Forum’s eastern entrance are each bathed

in light. Off right a foolhardy goatherd (or maybe Grand Tourist) reduced to insect-size attempts to scale a column of the Temple of Saturn. Mid-distance S. Francesca Romana’s bell-tower gleams like an upwardreaching ingot. Next in this visual feast

HISTORY

Luigi Rossini catches a scene of fire at the Temple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus, looking in the opposite direction to Turner’s view.

is a rather flimsy Colosseum, then the just visible Basilica di S. Giovanni in Laterano, with the Alban hills beyond. So much for ancient to baroque. And modern? In 1820-1830, before fullscale excavations began, the Forum, as suggested by the painting’s title, was a space for grazing – cows and goats. The latter occupy the foreground along with some figures taking what seems to be a picnic while in the vertiginous near distance below process a group of pilgrims. To cite Goethe’s words displayed in the museum: “In this place the whole of history of the world is brought back together…” In the next room in Palazzo dei Conservatori Turner’s misty brilliance gives way to Piranesi’s graphic black and white. Viewed from the same perspective – a window in Palazzo del Senatore – each monument is depicted with pinpoint precision and neatly numbered as a horse and carriage heads back down the Via Sacra. Turner’s goatherds have been replaced by workaday

masons prising apart marble to adorn perhaps some bigwig’s garden. Luigi Rossini’s etchings are equally methodical, almost scientific. One depicts the Capitoline Hill viewed from east to west, another as seen from the Tiber strangely lively with shipping. Then there is the same artist’s reconstruction of the Temple of Jupiter in all its hill-topping glory as based on the then latest archaeological evidence. Showing the advantages of keeping in with emperors, Room 3 is dedicated to Palazzo Caffarelli, as once it was. Moving on to Hapsburg Emperor Charles V, Ascanio Caffarelli received the hilltop palace as a gift after welcoming his master to Rome. The building grew and grew, taking over much of the hill. Once overlooking the grand staircase, there, in fresco now transferred to canvas, is Charles V with trademark long chin, then Spain’s Philip II along with two outsize landscapes. By mid 19th century Palazzo Caffarelli, adjacent to Palazzo dei Con-

The partial demolition of Palazzo Caffarelli. Photo courtesy Museo di Roma.

servatori, had become home to the Prussian embassy with an annexed archaeology institute. The same that was to prove the palace’s undoing: directly below archaeologists had discovered the Temple of Jupiter (also known as the temple of Jupiter Maximus Capitolinus). Following Germany’s defeat in world war one the palace was taken over by the city of Rome, then mostly demolished so that the same temple and symbol of national pride could be unearthed. Keen to jump on the naMay 2016 | Wanted in Rome

HISTORY tionalist bandwagon, Mussolini then converted one wing of the otherwise demolished Caffarelli complex into the Mussolini Modern Art Museum (later to be called Museo Nuovo). The next section of the exhibition is devoted to Jupiter in Roman myth and history. Romulus, mid-battle versus the Sabines, had called on Jupiter for help, promising to build him a temple in case of victory. Titled Jove Stator, the deity became the city’s tutelary god. The Tarquin kings followed the tradition. In the sixth century BC Tarquin Priscus and Tarquin Superbus founded a temple to Jupiter as well as to Juno and Minerva who were known as the Capitoline Triad. As chance would have it, during the digging of the foundations, a human head was unearthed, miraculously intact. The Romans were quick to seize upon it as a symbol for future greatness – Caput Mundi. It was here at the temple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus that triumphant generals would offer sacrifices before the temple. A frieze of Marcus Aurelius a couple of stairways below in the Palazzo dei Conservatori shows the emperor doing just that, in front of the fourth and most lavish temple building – Jupiter is still flanked by Juno and Minerva in the pediment – which was reconstructed by Domitian after a fire in 80 AD. The plastic replica occupying pride of floor place here represents its base. The exhibition then moves on to the demolitions of the 1930s to make way for Fori Imperiali, a famous/infamous episode in Fascist history. Mindful of the Caput Mundi tag, partly for propaganda purposes the regime proceeded to give the area a facelift – or isolamento. There since mediaeval times, the higgledy-piggledy streets below were cleared, along with two venerable Latin-themed osterie, both remembered here. That this urban renewal was not entirely welcome can be seen from the faces of the occupants of the houses listed for destruction; in a photo of the

time, they gather on the steps outside for final pose. Presumably not a candidate for the Duce’s new museum, antiregime painter Afro (Libio Basaldella) shows the backs of houses; their gutted insides resemble disemboweled animals. (Viewable in Villa Torlonia, Mussolini’s former home, another artist – Mario Mafai – has a series commemorating the same theme.) Some of the displaced inhabitants were relocated to the Pigneto area which during the upcoming war became, not surprisingly perhaps, a hotbed of partisan activity. And so to the exhibition’s close – terracotta remains going back to the Tarquin era and unearthed during the same isolamento process. From a material typical of Etruria, the Etruscan heartland, the decorative roof-fragments

number over one thousand, enough for archaeologists to reconstruct decorative patterns used perhaps in Tarquin Priscus’s original Jupiter Massimus Capitolinus temple, then in two fourth- and third-century BC reconstructions. The room’s most striking exhibit, however, are two pairs of alternatively pointing feet and sets of toes stamped in cleanest marble. From a third century AD shrine discovered near the Forum Boarium to the Carthaginian/ Roman goddess Caelestis – protector of the peace and bringer of wealth and happiness – they are there, ex voto, to wish the traveller a happy outward and return journey. 1,700 years on we can second the emotion. The exhibition in Palazzo dei Conservatori runs until 19 June.

The frieze of Marcus Aurelius in front of the temple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus. May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scene tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Art Centre Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.3019.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to

Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.00-18.00. Mon closed. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.0019.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna. it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. MonSat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery recently relaunched near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it. Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.

Monitor

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

FINTAN MAGEE: THE BACKWATERS 29 April-3 June Galleria Varsi presents a new exhibition by Australian artist Fintan Magee who draws on his childhood memories to take us back to Brisbane in the 1990s, inserting characters in a marginalised urban context, suspended between dream and reality. Under the subheading Stories from the Endless Suburbia, the exhibition features Magee’s works on paper and mixed media canvases alongside a life-size plaster sculpture of child who has accidentally fallen off his bicycle. Magee depicts abandoned objects and places to highlight topics such as the environment, migration and social exclusion. Galleria Varsi, Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 06 68309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

The walnut tree in the Orto Botanico at the centre of Silvia Stucky’s work Opera senza io.

Illusion 4 by Afarin Sajedi at Dorothy Circus Gallery.

The Student by Fintan Magee at Galleria Varsi.

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

exhibitions CAMILLE HENROT: MONDAY 12 May-6 Nov The Fondazione Memmo presents the latest body of work by award-winning French artist Camille Henrot, along with a series of frescoes produced in situ for the foundation. Inspired by the “first and most chaotic day of the week”, the exhibition comprises large bronze sculptures, both figurative and abstract, as well as frescoes created using traditional methods mixed with found documents, paper and small objects. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it. SILVIA STUCKY: CUSTODIRE LO SPLENDORE 3-14 May Exhibition of works reflecting themes such as nature, wonder and awareness by Rome artist Silvia Stucky who exhibits works relating to previous exhibitions, events and projects, now displayed in public for the first time. The exhibition includes the original photos and painted drawings from Opera senza io, a project created for an event at Rome’s botanical gardens and until now only visible online. Also on display are 93 ivy leaf rubbings from Senza io in 2006, along with more recent works, while another novelty is a video showing a sequence of Stucky’s frottage leaf drawings. Open daily by appointment, tel. 329 / 3544936. Interno 14, Associazione Italiana di Architettura e Critica, Via Carlo Alberto 63.

TRIUMPHS AND LAMENTS BY WILLIAM KENTRIDGE 17 April-2 Oct MACRO presents an exhibition of works relating to the grand-scale mural highlighting seminal moments in Rome’s history by the internationally acclaimed South African artist William Kentridge. The show comprises more than 80 works in charcoal, pastel and ink, as well as stencils and videos, which led to the final design of the Triumphs and Laments project along the banks of the river Tiber (see article page 6). MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. AFARIN SAJEDI: ILLUSION 16 April-30 May The Dorothy Circus Gallery shows works by Iranian pop-surrealist Afarin Sajedi whose exhibition is themed around “illusions.” The exhibition’s five large canvases, which contain central female figures against a plaincoloured background, are accompanied by a number of smaller works. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. ALPHONSE MUCHA 15 April-11 Sept Retrospective dedicated to the career of popular Czech artist Alphonse Mucha (1860-1939), best known for his Art Nouveau decorative depictions of women. On display are more than 200 of his works including paintings, posters, drawings and jewellery. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 066780664. BARBIE: THE ICON 15 April-30 Oct Exhibition examining how the cultural identity of the Barbie doll has adapted in different parts of the world since it was introduced in 1959.

Pasolini, 2 November 1975 by William Kentridge at MACRO.

Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 066780664. TARYN SIMON: PAPERWORK AND THE WILL OF CAPITAL 14 April-24 June The Gagosian Gallery Rome presents an exhibition of the most recent body of work by multidisciplinary artist Taryn Simon. On display are 12 sculptures – stylised concrete flowerpresses – and 36 large, colourful photos in mahogany frames. Following her participation in last year’s Venice Biennnale, this is the first solo exhibition in Italy for the New York artist whose work incorporates photography, text, sculpture and performance. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642746429, www.gagosian. com. CARAVAGGIO EXPERIENCE 24 March-3 July This high-tech, immersive exhibition at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni features 3-D images of 57 masterpieces by Caravaggio, offering viewers a “full sensory experience”, according to The Fake Factory, the video design company behind the project. The works by the 17th-century master are magnified and projected onto the museum’s walls, allowing a close examination of the paintings’ composition, theatricality and dramatic use of chiaroscuro. In addition to the highdefinition projection system, whose sensory effects include music and fragances, the exhibition showcases sketches highlighting modifications made by Caravaggio as his paintings progressed. Palazzo delle Esposizioni 194, Via Nazionale, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

STILL SHOWING MAXXI SUPERSTUDIO. 50 YEARS OF SUPERARCHITETTURA 20 April-4 Sept Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the exhibition Superarchitettura, held in Pistoia in 1966, by the Italian architectural firm Superstudio. Founded by Adolfo Natalini and Cristiano Toraldo di Francia, Superstudio was a integral part of Italy’s Radical avant-garde architecture movement of the late 1960s. HIGHLIGHTS / VISIONS. SOU FUJIMOTO, MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO, PAOLO SOLERI, L UCA VITONE, FRANZ WEST AND CHEN ZHEN 11 March-4 June Under the theme of vision, this exhibition features works by Italian and international artists and architects from the MAXXI collection, including Sou Fujimoto, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Paolo Soleri, Luca Vitone, Franz West and Chen Zhen. PIER LUIGI NERVI: LE ARCHITETTURE PER LO SPORT 5 Feb-2 Oct Plans, models, photographs and three-dimensional graphic presentations for over 60 sports projects by Italian architect Pier Luigi Nervi (18911979). The exhibition spans his entire career and includes the Palazzetto dello Sport in Rome’s Flaminio district, built for the 1960 Olympics, as well as major international projects such as the Kuwait Sports Centre in 1968. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810.

Zodiac by Alphonse Mucha at the Vittoriano.

Convention on Cluster Munitions by Taryn Simon at the Gagosian Gallery. May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

REVIEW OF THE MONTH ROMA ANNI TRENTA: LA GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA E LE QUADRIENNALI D’ARTE 1931-1935-1939 24 March-18 Oct Rome’s municipal modern art gallery on Via Francesco Crispi stages an exhibition dedicated to the first three editions of the Quadriennale di Roma, a series of major shows to promote prevailing trends in contemporary Italian art during the 1930s. Some 120 works, including paintings, sculpture and prints, are displayed alongside archive documents and footage from the Istituto Luce, providing a cultural, urban and architectural insight into the capital during the fascist era. Spearheaded by Rome painter Cipriano Oppo (18911962) the first three Quadriennali were held at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on Via Nazionale in 1931, 1935 and 1939. This was no ordinary moment for the arts in Italy – Mussolini intended to harness modern art to evoke Rome’s glorious past as a foundation for Italy’s national identity. The regime provided ample funds to purchase art works for state collections, as well as commissioning art, fuelling a decade of intense activity for Italian artists. Il Cardinale Decano by Scipione. These Quadriennali were pivotal events in the history of the city’s public art collections with almost 1,300 works purchased, 400 of which made their way to the Galleria D’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale. Established at Palazzo Caffarelli on the Capitoline hill in 1925, the gallery was renamed in 1931 as Galleria Mussolini and was central to the Duce’s plans to make Rome a centre for culture and modern art. The first Quadriennale in 1931 represented a generation of well-established artists in their 50s while the 1935 fair was considered the most progressive, featuring work by young artists who had just turned 25. The third Quadriennale was less adventurous, top-heavy with Futurist works – a movement with strong ties to the fascist regime – and overshadowed by a climate of war. A highlight of the exhibition is Il Cardinale Decano (1930) by Gino Bonicchi, better known as Scipione, who died from tuberculosis in 1933 aged 29. Oppo paid special homage to the deceased artist by holding a posthumous exhibition of his works at the 1935 Quadriennale. There is little holy in Scipione’s striking portrait of the scowling Cardinal Vincenzo Vannutelli, enthroned in a dimly-lit St Peter’s Square, a symbolic, expressionist work conjuring a vision closer to hell than heaven. Alongside Mario Mafai and Antonietta Raphaël, Scipione was a founding member of the Scuola Romana which is represented in the exhibition by numerous works including Mafai’s Donne che si spogliano (1934), a painting of two women struggling to undress while an ominous shadow lurks in the background. The Italians in Paris section contains works by Gino Severini, Alberto Savinio, Massimo Campigli, Filippo De Pisis, as well as Giorgio de Chirico, who Mussolini barred from the first Quadriennale as punishment after the metaphysical master publicly described Italian art as “narrow-minded.” In addition to paintings by important 20thcentury Italian artists such as Afro, Felice Casorati, Antonio Donghi, Renato Guttoso, and sculpture by Marino Marini, the show contains the well-known La famiglia del pastore by modernist artist Mario Sironi, a desolate scene of a family in a barren landscape, exhibited at the 1931 fair. The exhibition provides an interesting overview of the Italian art scene of the 1930s, set within the context of the fascist regime’s vision of a resurgent Rome.

La famiglia del pastore by Mario Sironi.

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

Andy Devane Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

FORGOTTEN: THE EXHIBITION 14 April-15 May MACRO Testaccio dedicates an exhibition to the Forgotten street art project which involves five Portuguese artists enlivening abandoned or “forgotten” buildings around the Italian capital. Supported by the embassy of Portugal to Italy, Forgotten began last October with a mural by Add Fuel in Piazza della Marina, in the Flaminio district. It continued with a Frederico Draw mural featuring Pier Paolo Pasolini at the Teatro India site in Ostiense. Then Bordalo II created a mixed-media mural outside S. Pietro train station, featuring a goat’s head made from discarded mechanical parts. The fourth intervention was by ±MaisMenos± who erected a series of temporary word-play slogans around the capital’s recently-closed cinemas. The exhibition launch coincided with the recent unveiling of Taglio, a largescale mural outside the Guido Reni market in Flaminio by the fifth and final artist Eime who highlighted the closure of food markets in the face of competition from chain stores. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www.museomacro. org. CORREGGIO AND PARMIGIANINO: ART IN PARMA IN THE 16TH CENTURY 12 March-26 June The Scuderie del Quirinale showcases the art of Parma in the first half of the 16th century, a golden age for the city whose most celebrated artists Correggio (1489–1534) and Parmigianino (1503–1540) contributed greatly to the Italian Renaissance. The exhibition presents a selection of paintings and drawings by both artists who were best known for their religious and mythological paintings. Also on display are works by four other artists from the so-called School of Parma: Michelangelo Anselmi, Francesco Maria Rondani, Girolamo Mazzola Bedoli and Giorgio Gandini del Grano. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. CAMPIDOGLIO: MITO, MEMORIA, ARCHEOLOGIA 1 March-19 June Exhibition of rare archival documents, paintings, engravings, sculptures and archaeological discoveries telling the story of the profound urban transformation of Rome’s Campidoglio over the centuries. See article page 10. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 06 39967800, www. museicapitolini.org.

The Caravaggio Experience exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

Taglio by Eime for the Forgotten exhibition at MACRO Testaccio.

MARISA E MARIO MERZ 18 Feb-12 June For more than 50 years Marisa and Mario Merz collaborated as artists, from their beginnings in Italy’s Arte Povera movement in the 1960s up until the death of Mario in 2003. The husband and wife duo had a close, creative and intellectual working relationship in their collective work while managing to maintain distinct individual careers. This exhibition Sto in quella curva di quella montagna che vedo riflessa in questo lago di vetro. Al tavolo di Mario presents selected works by the two artists, including sculpture, text and wax installations. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

See other exhibitions on our WEBSITE www.wantedinrome.com

Noli me tangere by Correggio at the Scuderie del Quirinale. May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA

CLASSICAL

Dame Evelyn Glennie who performs at the Teatro Olimpico on 5 May is one of the world’s top solo percussionists.

FLORENCE

ROME

MAGGIO MUSICALE Maggio Musicale festival started earlier this year with the inaugural concert on 24 April, conducted as usual by Zubin Mehta, with this year’s guest artist Andras Schiff at the piano. There is a series of Beethoven piano concertos in May with soloists Ludovica Vincenti (6 May), Naruhiko Kawaguchi (10 May), Alexandra Nepomnjascaja (12 May), Jin Ju (20 and 30 May), Stefania Neonato (23 May), Olga Pascenko (25 May). There are also extra festival concerts in June with Diana Damrau (9 June) conducted by Mehta, Beethoven’s Missa Solemnis conducted by Mehta (18 June), La Scala Filarmonica (19 June) conducted on Myung-Whun Chung, the Vienna Philharmonic (28 June) conducted by Daniele Gatti, the Berlin Philharmonic (30 June) conducted by Yannick NézetSéguin and the St Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra (4 July) conducted by Yuri Temirkanov. There are also other events such as films, concerts in museums, conferences, lectures, study days and special musical tours. For the full programme see also Opera on page 31 and the Maggio Musical website, www. operadifirenze.it.

Most of the classical music concerts in Rome have now come to the end but there are still a few throughout May before the summer musical festivals begin. For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

TURANDOT, PRINCIPESSA FALENA PROGETTO OPERA DOMANI 2016 16 May This opera project for lower secondary school children is based on the idea that Turandot could be a butterfly but is in fact a sinister moth who is unable to detach herself from her chrysalis until she is saved by the humanity of her father Timur and Liù. Opera Domani, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary, encourages the understanding of lyric opera and culture among the young and the active participation among school-age children. The performance is scheduled at Teatro Olimpico however the theatre may still be shut so it is advisable to consult the websitebsite www.teatroolimpico.it for more information. ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE S. CECILIA HOMAGE TO LUIGI BOCCHERINI 6 May Europa Galante, with Fabio Biondi violin, plays chamber music by Boccherini, including three string quintets. Sala Sinopoli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it.

MILAN RICCARDO MUTI 5 June A special concert to celebrate Riccardo Muti’s 75th birthday. Muti, probably Italy’s best known conductor was the musical director and principal conductor at La Scala from 1986-2005 until he was forced out by labour disputes and management difficulties. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

EVELYN GLENNIE 5 May Solo percussionist Dame Evelyn Glennie plays music by James Keane, one of her own pieces which she composed with Philipp Sheppard, works by James Tenney, Francesco Antonioni (Venus, which is a world premiere) and Nebrojsa Zivkovic. Glennie, who gives some 100 concerts a year, has been profoundly deaf from a young age and has trained herself to “hear” with other parts of her body. Her mission as stated on her website (www.evelyn. co.uk) is to “Teach the World to Listen”. The concert is scheduled at Teatro Olimpico however the theatre may still be shut so it is advisable to consult the website www.teatroolimpico.it for more information.

Pianist Ramin Bharami is back at S. Cecilia with a programme of sacred music to mark the special Jubilee of Mercy on 11 May.

RAMIN BAHRAMI IN PARADISUM 11 May Pianist Ramin Bahrami plays a programme of sacred music with the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia to mark the special Jubilee year of Mercy. Music by Haydn, Bach, Brahms, Bruckner

and Duruflé. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it. ENNIO MORRICONE 21-25 May Tickets for these concerts conducted by Ennio Morricone of his own film music are already sold out, although it might be worth trying to obtain box office returns at the last moment. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. HOMAGE TO JOHN WILLIAMS 28-31 May More film music, starting with that by Prokofiev for Alexander Nevsky and including that by John Williams for E.T. and Star Wars. Stephane Deneve conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia. it. During May the S. Cecilia orchestra is also on tour in Brazil and Argentina.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ ELVIS COSTELLO 29 May This English musician, singer-songwriter and record producer is associated with the first wave of the British punk and New Wave movement of the midto-late 1970s. Costello is best known for his wordplay lyrics and his 1979 hit single Oliver’s Army. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com. DURAN DURAN 7 June Rome concert by Duran Duran, one of the most successful bands of the 1980s. Starting out as part of the New Roman-

David Gilmour plays two concerts at the Circus Maximus in July.

tic scene, the musicians’ catchy tunes, good looks and controversial music videos became synonymous with the MTV generation, earning them the nickname the “prettiest boys in rock”. The group is best known for hits such as Come Undone, Ordinary World, and Save a Prayer. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245. DAVID GILMOUR 2-3 July Tickets are on sale for two summer concerts by former Pink Floyd guitarist David Gilmour at the Circus Maximus on 2 and 3 July. Gilmour comes to Rome as part of his worldwide tour promoting his fifth solo album Rattle That Lock, released last September. The musician will also join his former bandmates in a Pink Floyd reunion concert in the amphitheatre at Pompeii, 45 years after the group recorded an acclaimed documentary at the ancient Roman site. Tickets for Gilmour’s seated Rome concerts, costing between €60 and €120, are available via the Rock in Roma website, www.rockinroma.com.

Duran Duran perform at Rock in Roma this summer.

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

Elvis Costello performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN 16 July Tickets, starting at €98, are still available for the much-anticipated concert by American rocker Bruce Springsteen at the Circus Maximus. Accompanied by the E Street Band, Springsteen’s Rome concert will conclude his European River Tour and will be his ninth in the capital. The River Tour features tracks from his successful 1980 double album The River, as well as other Springsteen classics. For tickets see Ticket One website, www.ticketone.it. SANTANA 19 July Santana come to town as part of the veteran band’s Luminosity tour. Fronted by Mexican-American musician Carlos Santana, the group gained fame in the late 1960s for pioneering a fusion of rock and Latin American music, combining blues-based guitar with timbales and congas. Best known for tracks such Oye Come Va and Black Magic Woman. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com.

festivals OPEN HOUSE ROMA 7-8 May Many of Rome’s museums, libraries, galleries and contemporary buildings to which there is normally limited public access are open free of charge over the weekend of 7-8 May during the fifth edition of Open House Roma. Since its launch in 2012, the annual initiative dedicated to Rome’s varied architectural design has opened up hundreds of interesting, important and sometimes off-limits buildings. This year Open House Roma features some 200 buildings with more than 50 guided tours and events. Some of the highlights include Villa Mazzanti and the nature reserve at Monte Mario, the Salone d’Onore at Palazzo H (seat of the Italian Olympic Committee) in the Flaminio district, the Bank of Italy at Palazzo Koch on Via Nazionale, the Forte Bravetta military base, the Palazzo Aeronautica near Termini station, the Ministero Marina Militare in Flaminio, and numerous tours around the west Rome suburb Primavalle. The two-day event is divided into five categories: Abitare (visits to private apartments), Architettura del Quotidiano (buildings which animate daily life in Rome but are little known to many residents), Factory e produzione (new sites of innovation and creative production), Attraversare la storia (ex-

Forte Bravetta with Open House Roma. Photo Fabrizio Latini.

ploring Rome’s buildings through the various historical ages), and Città della conoscenza (visiting the city’s sites of knowledge, culture and research). The Rome version of the worldwide initiative, which began in London in 1992, is co-ordinated by non-profit cultural association Open City Roma and its volunteers. Booking is required for many of the Rome tours, for details see website, www.openhouseroma.org. FESTIVAL DEL VERDE E DEL PAESAGGIO 13-15 May The sixth edition of this three-day festi-

val dedicated to gardening, landscape gardening, designer gardens and terraces takes place on the 25,000-sqm roof gardens of Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica. Visitors to the family-friendly event will find an extensive range of plants on sale as well as outdoor furniture, hammocks, sculpture and gardening equipment. There are innovative landscape installations as well as a children’s play area with themed workshops, competitions and readings. For full details including entry price see website. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 0687909043, www.festivaldelverdeedelpaesaggio.it.

OUTDOOR EXTRA 30 April-29 May Following the successful sixth edition of the urban art festival Outdoor last October, NUfactory returns with Outdoor Extra, a month-long cultural programme showcasing art, music, architecture, fashion, food and beverage at the disused military barracks on Via Guido Reni. Located near the Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Spring Attitude at the Outdoor Extra Festival. secolo (MAXXI), in the Flaminio district of Rome, the 30,000-sqm venue acts as the headuarters of the festival, with five consecutive weekends of events taking place between 30 April and 29 May. Outdoor Extra kicks off on 30 April with a month-long exhibition by Alex Fakso, an established Italian street photographer whose large-scale works document contemporary underground movements within Italy’s urban environments. Following the opening weekend dedicated to the art of mixing cocktails with the festival Spirits, the festival’s base opens its doors to the Open House Roma circuit (see above) on 7-8 May. Also on 7 May is Watergate Nacht, from 21.00, an event co-organised with the famous Watergate Club in Berlin, with live dj sets playing German techno music. On 14 May the festival hosts the second edition of Italianism, a conference focusing on Italian creativity, featuring encounters, exhibitions and concerts with young Italian artists and professionals from diverse artistic fields. Parallel to Italianism is Bombadischi Night with the Rome-based independent record label that promotes new sounds on the Italian music scene. On the weekend of 20-21 May revellers can look forward to Spring Attitude, the international festival dedicated to electronic music and its emerging sounds, while Outdoor Extra ends on 28-29 May with an interactive festival devoted entirely to Ginnika, Italian sneakers synonymous with street culture, enlivened with dj sets and live performances. For full programme see website. Ex Caserma, Via Guido Reni 7 (Flaminio), www.out-door.it/festival.

May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ROME FLEADH 2016 13-15 May Lovers of Irish music and culture can look forward to the third edition of the Roma Festival of Traditional Irish Music, taking place at the Scuola di Musica Popolare of Testaccio and Caffè Letterario. The event features leading traditional Irish musicians and is organised by Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann Italia, in collaboration with the Irish embassy in Rome and Culture Ireland. The festival begins on the evening of 12 May with an informal welcome session followed over the next three days by workshops dedicated to learning traditional Irish music as well as the Gaelic language. The workshops are led by teachers Conal O’Grada (flute), Jackie Daly (button accordion), Colm Murphy (bodhrán), Matt Cranich (fiddle) and Ciara Nic Gabhann (Gaelic). For full programme see Facebook page Rome Fleadh 2016 or email romeirishfestival@gmail.com. Scuola di Musica Popolare of Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4/A and Caffè Letterario, Via Ostiense 95. MEMORIE URBANE 20 May-5 June The fifth edition of Memorie Urbane Street Art Festival continues its aim to transform neglected urban areas in small towns south of Rome by engaging 40 international street artists to enliven Gaeta, Terracina, Fondi, Arce, Latina, Priverno, Caserta and Itri. The artists include big names such as Add Fuel, Apolo Torres, Doa, Eime, Frederico Draw, MP5, and Sea Creative, many of whom have recently undertaken large-scale works in Rome. The Memorie Urbane festival was founded in 2011 by Davide Rossillo. For details see website, www. memorieurbane.it.

FESTIVALS OUT OF TOWN BRESCIA AND BERGAMO FESTIVAL PIANISTICA 27 April-4 June If you want to hear some of the best pianists of the moment this is the festival to pick. This year the theme is the Tre Volti del Classicismo, Mozart, Haydn and Clementi. Since the Bergamo and Brescia festival started in 1964, when Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli was its inspiration, it has hosted pianists who have then gone on to become the world’s best. This year is no exception, with concerts by up-andcoming as well as renowned soloists. The young new stars are David Fray (2 May in Brescia and 3 May in Bergamo), Evgeni Bozhanov (19 May in Bergamo and 20 May in Brescia), Dmitry Masleev (3 June in Brescia and 4 June in Bergamo) and Yuja Wang (Bergamo on 1 June). Performances by old favourites include Alexander Lonquich (5 and 13 May in Brescia and 15 May in Bergamo), Mikhail Pletnev (12 May in Bergamo) and Grigory Sokolov (25 May in Bergamo and 27 May in Brescia). There are also the concerts by the festival’s Filamonica, including what is now the annual concert on 28 May to commemorate the victims of the 1974 bombing in Piazza della Loggia by far-right-wing terrorists who killed eight and injured over 100. See www.festivalpianistico.it for full programme. CREMONA MONTEVERDI FESTIVAL 14 May-15 June Vergini, Ninfe, Regine is the theme of this year’s festival dedicated to the music of Monteverdi, so it hardly surprising than women are the protagonists of the festi-

The Rome Fleadh promotes traditional Irish music.

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

Dimitry Masleev is one of the young stars in the Bergamo and Brescia festival.

val, both as inspiration for the music and as performers. This year also continues the Le desiate acque di Claudio Monteverdi, an initiative which was launched in 2015 to combine the musical history and talent of three cities, Cremona, Mantova and Venice with cruises along the River Po (3-4 June). In addition to the many concerts there are also masterclasses (9, 23 and 31 May). Performances are mainly in the Teatro Ponichelli but also in unusual locations around the city such as gardens and palace courtyards. For the programme and some representative soundtracks see www.teatroponichelli.it. MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO 24 April- 4 July 9 June As well as the concerts (see Music) and the rather disappointing opera programme (see Opera) there is also a recital by soprano Diana Damrau conducted by Zubin Mehta (9 June) of works by Mozart and Johann Strauss, a few films in the Intorno al Festival Maggio Cinema section such as Eroica (9 May), Antoine e Colette (9 May) and Clockwork Orange (23 May), miscellaneous concerts in churches around the city and a few public seminars such as Giuseppe Ungaretti e Luigi Nono; Lettere 1950-1969 (17 May). For the full programme see www.operadifirenze.it. RAVENNA 13 May-13 July This year the programme’s festival is dedicated to the value of freedom and in particular to Nelson Mandela, based on two quotations, one from Dante “I seek Liberty” and the other by Mandela “I have walked that long road to freedom.” This top quality festival, launched by Riccardo Muti in 1990, is now one of Italy’s most comprehensive, imaginative and well financed. It includes art exhibitions, concerts (classical, contemporary and jazz), dance, cinema and more. Some of

opera FLORENCE

The Cape Town Opera with the Mandela Trilogy at the Ravenna festival on 9 June.

the highlights include South Africa’s Ladysmith Black Mambazo (28 May); Italy’s top jazz pianist Sefano Bollani (29 May); a contemporary music concert titled Perduto in una città d’acqua, with music by Salvatore Sciarrino, Michele Foresi, Alessandro Ratoci (of the new millennial generation) and Luigi Nono (3 June); the Cape Town Opera with Mandela Trilogy (9 June); Cellolandia in which Giovanni Solimma’s 100 cellos will take the festival and Ravenna by storm for a week (12-18 June); performances by Muti’s Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cerubini, the Mahler Chamber Orchestra conducted by Daniel Harding (19 June); two jazz concerts inspired by Mandela and South African music (20-23 June); Folia Shakespeariana in the park with actress/directors Chiara Muti and Elena Bucci (22 June). The dance programme includes Twyla Tharp (the same programme as the one to be performed in Rome at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 26 June (see Dance page X), a choreography by by Micha van Hoecke called Chanteuse des Rues dedicated to Edith Piaf and Jean Cocteau (28 June); Svetlana Zakhavrova and the stars of the Bolshoi and La Scala (30 June); the Batsheva Dance company (6 July); Alonzo

Giovanni Solimma’s 100 cellos will invade Ravenna for a week during the festival.

King Lines Ballet (9 July), Michael Nyman and Water Dances (23 July). There are also days dedicated to the Danube (1 July), to Irish music (25 June) and to Italy-Japan friendship (3 July). Add to this the Tallis Scholars (27 June), The Westminster Boys Choir (4 July), Joan Baez (13 July) and the daily homage to Dante Alighieri every morning at his tomb and you have the measure of this imaginative festival. It is also worth downloading the festival’s programme for the beautiful images of the world’s top freedom fighters – Mandela, Ghandi, the Dalai Lama, Aung San Suu Kyi, Martin Luther King, Angela Davis, Malala Yousafzai – can you name them all? Events take place around the city, for the full programme see the website www.ravennafestival.org. TEATRO GRECO DI SIRACUSE 13 May-26 June Classical Athenian drama in the Greek amphitheatre in Syracuse. This year’s programme features three great women heroines of Greek theatre – Electra by Sophocles (13 May-18 June), Alcestis by Euripides (14 May-19 June) and Phaedra by Seneca (23-26 June). See the website of the Istituto Nazionale del Dramma Antica, www.indafondazione.org. MORE FESTIVAL DATES 24 June-10 July. Spoleto 24 June-27 August. Arena di Verona. The company is now in serious financial difficulty and its ballet corps has already been closed. It is hoped that a private investor may come forward otherwise it may have to go into liquidation but this year’s season is not at risk. 21 June-20 July. Parma Estate 26-30 June. Rome Chamber Music festival 7-19 July. Umbria Jazz 9 July-10 August. Teatro dell’ Opera di Rome in the baths of Caracalla 22 July-14 August. Macerata Opera Festival in the Sferisterio 14 July- 5 August. Festival della Valle D’Itria

MAGGIO MUSICALE 24 April-4 July Opera is almost pushed out of the Maggio Musicale festival programme this year. Tchaikovsky’s Iolanthe runs until 5 May, followed by the world premiere of Fabio Vacchi’s Lo Specchio Magico for one evening (7 May) and then Benjamin Britten’s Albert Harding (21-31 May). Vacchi’s new opera, an Urban Art Dance production, is a mix of classical music with ethnic and elements of rap, directed by John Axelrod. Vacchi made his debut at Maggio Musicale in 1982 with his first opera Girotondo, abased on a work by Arthur Schnitzler. See also Music and Opera Notes.

MILAN LA CENA DELLE BEFFE BY UMBERTO GIORDANO 3 April-7 May This new La Scala production is a continuation of its project to bring Verismo repertoire back to the Milan opera house. Giordano’s opera, one of his later works, was first performed at La Scala in 1924 conducted by Toscanini. It was adapted from the play of the same title by Sem Benelli which premiered at Rome’s Teatro Argentina in 1909. Here it is conducted by Carlo Rizzi, an expert of Italian repertoire, with the theatrical, operatic and cinematographic experience of Mario Martone as the director. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org. For those interested in Umberto Giordano operas there is the much better known Fedora at the S. Carlo in Naples from 3-11 May, a production from Teatro Regio di Turin. LA FANCIULLA DEL WEST BY PUCCINI 3-28 May This production continues a La Scala project, which conductor Riccardo Chailly started last year, to restage all Puccini’s operas by 2022, going back to the composer’s original scores. In the case of this opera it means removing many of the amendments made by Arturo Toscanini for the premiere at La Scala in 1910. The director is Robert Carsen and the part of Minnie is taken by Eva-Maria Westbroeke. La Fanciulla has not been seen at La Scala since 1995. The opera will be broadcast live in cinemas on 10 May and will be recorded on RAI5 on 12 May. Teatro alla May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

OPERA NOTES L’opera di chiusura del 79° Maggio Musicale Fiorentino è Albert Herring di Benjamin Britten (21-31 maggio) per la direzione d’orchestra di Jonathan Webb e la regia di Alessandro Talevi. Narra dell’ingenuo fruttivendolo Albert Herring (interpretato da Sam Furness) che inaspettatamente riesce a liberarsi dalla ingerenze di una madre oppressiva (Manuela Custer) dimostrando così anche ai “bravi” borghesi del suo paese (Orla Boylan, Rachel Kelly, Philip Smith) di essere un uomo consapevole del proprio valore e saggio. Albert Herring fu il primo titolo in cartellone del Festival di Aldeburgh fondato da Britten nel 1948, la première invece ebbe luogo l’anno precedente al Festival di Glyndebourne tra contrasti e tensioni. È un’opera comica, costituita da numeri chiusi (arie, duetti e concertati) raccordati da recitati secchi accompagnati non già dal classico clavicembalo, come nelle opere buffe del Settecento, ma dal “moderno” pianoforte. I recitativi hanno una connotazione lirica e melodica che si adatta con evidenza e naturalezza alle parti propriamente cantate. L’orchestra è da camera ed è formata da appena dodici elementi, Britten tuttavia riesce a trarne effetti e sonorità suggestive, soprattutto negli interludi tra una scena e l’altra. Svjatoslav Richter, uno dei più importanti e bravi pianisti del Novecento, considerava Albert Herring «la più grande opera comica del Secolo». Paolo Di Nicola

Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org. L’HEURE ESPAGNOLE L’ENFANT ET LES SORTILÈGES BY RAVEL 17 MAY-16 JUNE Two operas by Ravel come from Glyndebourne, directed by Laurent Pelly and conducted by Marc Minkowski, with mezzosoprano Marianne Crebassa in the main role. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org. DER ROSENKAVALIER BY RICHARD STRAUSS 4 June-2 July From the Salzburg festival to Milan, and according to some opera critics this production to mark the 150th anniversary of the Salzburg festival is one of the best in the last decade. It is directed by Harry Kupfer, German’s top opera director, and conducted by Zubin Mehta. It is set in Vienna at the beginning of the 20th century, a period of momentous change, rather than the 18th century as Strauss had envisaged. But there is little in the production to indicate either that this was a period of social and cultural upheaval in the city, or that this elegant production is directed by the one-time enfant terrible of German opera. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 24 May-30 June This is Sofia Coppola’s debut as a director of opera so it is something of a coup

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

for Rome’s opera house. The production is the idea of Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti and is one of their foundation’s first opera projects. Costumes are designed by Valentino who was behind the choice of Coppola as director after the success of her film Marie Antoinette. Jader Bignamini is conducting with Francesca Dotto and Maria Grazia Schiavo alternating in the role of Violetta and Antonio Poli and Arturo Chacón-Cruz as Alfredo. Dotto received excellent reviews for her interpretation of Violetta earlier this year at La Fenice in Venice, while Maria Grazia Schiavo made her debut in the role only last year at S. Carlo di Napoli. Poli is another young Italian tenor who performed in Gianni Schicchi at the opera house in April. ChacónCruz, a protégé of Placido Domingo, has already made a name for himself among international audiences. Thanks to Valentino this is another feather in the cap for Rome opera house after a season of new and adventurous productions. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operadiroma.it. LINDA DA CHAMOUNIX BY DONIZETTI 17-28 June Conducted by Riccardo Frizza and directed by Emilio Sagi with Australian soprano Jessica Pratt in the lead role and the Spanish tenor Ismael Jordi as Carlo. A co-production with Barcelona’s Gran Teatre del Liceu. Donizetti’s opera premiered in Vienna in 1842 and had considerable success in the decades after, particularly in Italy, but was then neglected throughout most of the 20th century usually performed in concert form only. Although it features one of

The rarely performed Donizetti opera Linda da Chamounix comes to Rome in June. Diana Damrau and Juan Diego Florez pictured in the Barcelona production in 2011.

Donizetti’s best arias “O luce di quest’ anima” it is now mainly a showcase for colatura sopranos. This is a first for both conductor Frizza, Pratt and Jordi. Although the 2011 debut of the Sagi production in Barcelona boasted opera stars Diana Damrau and Juan Diego Florez it was not very successful. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operadiroma.it. SUMMER OPERA SEASON The operas for the Teatro dell’ Opera summer season 2016 at the Baths of Caracalla are Nabucco (9 July-9 Aug), Il Barbierie di Siviglia (18 July-10 Aug), Madame Butterfly (29 July-8 Aug). Nabucco is a new Teatro dell’Opera production. The programme also includes a concert by Lang Lang (3 July) and the traditional ballet gala of Roberto Bolle.

dance ROME

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA LE PARC 5-11 May Choreogaphy by Angelin Preljocaj with Eleonora Abbagnato and Stéphane Bullion as the principal couple, to music by Mozart. This is the 2006-07 Teatro della Scala production 2006-07 rather than the original 1990s Paris and Berlin productions. Abbagnato, etoile of the Paris Opera ballet, is now the director of ballet at the Teatro dell’Opera and she performs Le Parc with Bullion, also an etoile of the Paris ballet company, who danced the original version in Paris. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

Part of the Twyla Tharp Dance 50th anniversary celebrations in the US last year. Twyla Tharp Dance performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 26 June.

Theatre. This is part of the Luglio Suona Bene programme at Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

THEATRE TEATRO INDIA

TEATRO OLIMPICO ATERBALLETTO 24-25 May The company, formed by Mauro Bigonzetti and now under the artistic direction of Cristina Bozzolini performs three new choreographies, Sentieri by Philip Kratz; 14” 20’ (the title refers to the length of the piece) which is a reflection on time by Jiri Kylian and Antitesi by Andonis Foniadakis, a work where the classical meets the contemporary and where opposites confront each other. Both Kratz and Foniadakis are new to Rome audiences. Part of Festival Internationale della Danza di Roma 2016. Teatro Olimpico. The theatre may still be shut so consult the website www.teatroolimpico.it for more information. BALLETTO DEL SUD 27-28 May The Four Seasons by Fredy Franzutti. This choreography refers not just to the four seasons of the European year but the seasons of a human life. It is inspired by W.H. Auden’s poetry and the familiar themes from Vivaldi’s music alongside the less familiar melodies of John Cage. Teatro Olimpico. The theatre may still be shut so consult the website www.teatroolimpico.it for more information.

other. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. RAFEAL MARGO TIEMPO MUERTO 25 June This is the latest work by flamenco dancer and choreographer Rafael Amargo, with music by flamenco composer Juan Parrilla. This is part of the Luglio Suona Bene programme at Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. TWYLA THARP DANCE UNA SERATA DI QUATTRO DANZE 26 June The programme includes the world premiere of the choreography to Beethoven’s Opus 130 danced by Matthew Dibble before it goes on tour in New York later this year. Also Country Dances (1976), Brahms Paganini (1980) and Sinatra Suite (1983) commissioned by Baryshnikov for the American Ballet

Dopo Pasolini 17-22 May The characters in Dopo Pasolini mull over what remains today of Pier Paolo Pasolini, the intellectual, the poet, the man. Paola and Stefano live in the countryside where their lives are divided between theatre and agriculture. Referencing the legacy of Pasolini, the play focuses on the couple’s love and passions, and how they cope with illness and death. 24-29 May Entitled Sul Tetto del Mondo, this is a surreal play about two theatre-loving scarecrows near Bologna who survey their surroundings from a hill they call the “roof of the world”. Both plays written, directed and starring Paola Berselli and Stefano Pasquini. In Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 06684000311/14, www.teatrodiroma.net. ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 27 May The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity (in English) includes the club’s founder Marsha De Salvatore with regulars Ryan Costello, Denise McNee and José A. Salgado as well as two visiting comedians: Steven Briggs from Los Angeles and London-based Italian comedian Giada Garafolo. Doors open as usual at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere.

AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA COMPAGNIA ALGECIRAS FLAMENCO ALGARABIA 21 May Song, music and dance from countries around the Mediterranean where a mix of flamenco, Arab, sephardic and gypsy elements meet and influence each

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

Paola Berselli and Stefano Pasquini in Sul Tetto del Mondo for Teatro India.

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 19 May-3 July The exhibition Studio Systems explores the status of the artist’s studio in contemporary art and how it has changed over the last 50 years, as artists reconfigure and diversify the sites of their activity. Curated by Peter Benson Miller, the exhibition examines the concept of studios in the work of Yuri Ancarani, Richard Barnes, Anna Betbeze, Suzanne Bocanegra, Petra Cortright, Marcel Duchamp, Philip Guston, Josephine Halvorson, Dawn Kasper, and Bryony Roberts. 26 May Interdisciplinary artist Dawn Kasper stages On Desire or THE METHOD, a new site-specific performance conceived specially for the American Academy in Rome. Creating a type of living sculpture, Kasper’s performance uses sound and improvised movement to explore historical references to the philosophy of desire. 18.30. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065852151, www. aarome.org. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 9 May Rising from the ashes: the conservation of Makintosh’s Glasgow School of Art. Presentations by the team tasked with restoring the celebrated Glasgow art college, which was designed by Scottish architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh at the turn of the 20th century and was severely damaged by fire in 2014. In addition to contributions from restorers and leading architects, there is an open table discussion with experts from Rome’s Scuola di Specializzazione in Beni Architettonici e del Paesaggio. 09.3017.30 27 May Artist’s talk by Lucy Gunning, the award-winning London sculptor, video artist, filmmaker and installation artist. 18.00-19.00. 3 June From Ulster to Rome: a retrospective on the career of Hugh O’Neill, Earl of Tyrone (1550–1616). The Great O’Neill died in the hospital of S. Spirito in Sassia in 1616 after eight years of exile in Rome, and is buried in S. Pietro in Montorio on the Janiculum hill. The BSR holds an international symposium on the life and times of the Irish leader on the 400th anniversary of his death. 10.00– 18.00. The following day there will be a walking tour of places associated with O’Neill’s sojourn in Rome.

British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr. ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE 6 Feb-5 June German photographer Barbara Klemm retraces the footsteps of Goethe, capturing the subjects chosen by the poet in their modern settings. On display are 45 black and white photographs, shown alongside a small selection of reproductions of Goethe’s Italian landscape drawings from the museum’s collection. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY IN ROME 1 April-30 June Exhibition relating to the life of Pharaoh Tutankhamon whose tomb was discovered by British archaeologist Howard Carter in 1922. The artefacts on display include 30 reproductions of the original treasures including sarcophagi, jewels, masks, fans and a golden throne, replicating the tomb of Tutankhamon who reigned from 1333 until 1323 BC. The show is in the 220-sqm museum in the basement of Rome’s Egyptian Academy building which underwent extensive renovations five years ago. Egyptian Academy in Rome, Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. FRENCH ACADEMY 18 March-19 June The exhibition Yan Pei-Ming Rome

presents the Franco-Chinese artist’s vision of Rome and its history, ruins, popes, politics and films with 24 largeformat works, specially conceived for Villa Medici. The show by Yan Pei-Ming, who was a fellow at the French Academy in Rome in 1993-1994, is curated by another distinguished former resident, the art historian Henri Loyrette who has previously served as a director of both the Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre. Born in 1960 in Shanghai and now living in France, Pei-Ming is acclaimed for his “epic-sized” portraits of Mao Zedong and Gaddafi’s Corpse. The exhibition highlights the relationship between the French Academy in Rome, which currently celebrates its 350th anniversary, and its host city. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 22 April-4 June Vivid Meisen exhibition showing vintage Japanese kimonos from the 1920s when mass production saw modern versions of the traditional garment go on sale in department stores. These kimonos are made of meisen silk, have highly-coloured patterns and are representative of all age groups. The exhibition is divided into thematic sections such as flowers, graphic arts, traditional motifs, fauna patterns and vintage posters. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it.

Fontaine de Trevi by Yan Pei-ming at the French Academy. May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

TOP 10

BEACHES NEAR ROME For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer. S. Marinella The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers. S. Severa Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July. Fregene A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour. Ostia/Cancelli Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

S. Marinella

at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc. Anzio/Nettuno These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations. Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water. Sabaudia Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture. S. Felice Circeo Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get

Sabaudia

off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Sperlonga The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Gaeta This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

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WANTED IN ROME Junior

Maria Nyana’aar, a Year 11 student at St George’s British International School Rome, won the ARTiculation Prize Italia competition organised by the British Council. The competition requires students to talk about a work of art by a British artist who had exhibited at the Venice Biennale. Wanted in Rome Junior publishes the notes used in Maria’s winning speech.

I wonder if one day, I disappeared what would be the significance. Ask yourself, if you were to disappear anytime, how about the people left behind? … My name is Maria Nyana’aar and I will be discussing the painting No woman, No cry by Chris Ofili. The title already gives you a hint about the tone – the title is a song; yet it is a painting of a woman crying. The woman in this picture is the mother of Stephen Lawrence, Doreen Lawrence. Stephen Lawrence was killed on 13 April 1993; it is one of the highest profile racial killings in UK history. He was stabbed as he walked to the bus stop in South London and later that day he died due to excessive bleeding. This sparked widespread protest throughout the UK and put pressure on Scotland Yard to bring to justice those responsible for the crime. Finally, 21 years later, the perpetrators were convicted; in 2012. When I hear about such cases of innocent teenagers like me and many others, I am engulfed by a sense of fear. That my skin colour could cause my death sentence. Ask yourselves, parents in the audience, do you feel safe everyday as you send your children to school or leave them at home? I don’t know about you, but a black woman has to be constantly alert. She has fear in her heart from the day she is born to the

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

day her son dies and no justice is served. Her prayer is: “Don’t let my son be shot down in the street; don’t give me one less child at the dinner table.” Every day before he leaves, the son leaves with a warning and a growing fear that everyday might be his last merely because of the pigment of his skin. This painting depicts the aftermath

of the heinous crime; it shows the mother left behind to weep. When I look at this painting I see pain; I see insurmountable grief and, above all, I see the strength of a woman. This painting is in some ways typical of Ofili’s works. However, unlike many of his other works the use of the bright colours against the dark pigmented

No Woman, No Cry was painted by Chris Ofili in 1998, winning the Turner Prize that year.

skin of the subject creates a beautiful contrast. Ofili was inspired to paint Doreen because of her resilience, bravery and the dignity she possessed in a time of hardship, chaos and injustice. As we look closer at the details, Ofili’s excellent use of colour and media portrays a story that is astounding. I was immediately drawn to the hues of red and yellow which reminded me of a flame; a flame violent enough to burn down a city, strong enough to warm a cold night, fierce enough to set the oppression we blacks receive ablaze. And just like the flame, Doreen’s face shines through the darkness, injustice and adversity. The use of the golden background leads the onlooker to presume it is an aura of light. However, as we delve deeper into the painting, and begin to unravel its layers, and analyse the facial expression, we recognise a sense of courage in her tears. Her head lifted high and her lips pursed are both indicators of her courage and, though her happiness was taken away, she has refused to give in or to keep her head down; instead she is shown raising her head high to the sky so that she is closer to her son. You can almost feel his flame from above, its warmth and in every tear Ofili has placed a portrait of Stephen Lawrence. The vivacious colour isn’t the only thing typical of Chris Ofili’s works in this painting: his frequent use of elephant dung in the majority of his work was triggered by his first trip back to Zimbabwe where he witnessed elephant dung being used at tribal rituals. It signifies rejuvenation, birth and fertility. Since then he has adapted its use in many of his artworks. Here the painting is supported by two spherical balls of elephant dung and Doreen’s necklace has, at its centre, another spherical ball. The elephant dung in my opinion represents womanhood and a deep connection with their offspring. After discovering the significance behind the dung, a whole new chapter of the painting was revealed. Though Stephen might not be physically with her anymore, his memory will live on in her heart fuelling

Chris Ofili

her passion and her desire for Justice. His memory shall not be one of misery but one that shines a light on the unjust world and systems that we live in today. And the flame in his mother’s heart that continues to burn furiously will spark a flame in a fellow woman’s heart to fight for justice and truth. The same flame that sparked a flame in Chris Ofili’s heart to fight for justice through his artwork. Let’s take a step back and take another look. The geometrical patterns all across the canvas reminded me of a cage. The message Ofili may be trying to portray through this art work is that the black woman is trapped, oppressed because her skin is the hue of ebony and even worse, she is a woman. The black woman, the oppressed, the unwanted woman. From the day of her birth to the day of her death, she is plagued by the notion of fear because she is a woman. Maybe this portrait represents a black woman or even motherhood, perhaps even the strength of a woman. For we women are often the ones to suffer the consequences of adversity. This is a portrait of every woman, the grief she feels behind closed doors, caring for others but not being cared for. And as we step further back, we see the painting in a completely new light or shall I say darkness? As we look be-

yond the colour, into darkness, we see the words ‘RIP STEPHEN LAWRENCE’, the dates of his birth and his death. Barely visible to the naked eye in normal light, Ofili used phosphorescent paint to create this effect. In my opinion, this painting is an extended metaphor of humanity itself. For if we look beyond the layers of colour, if we look beyond the barriers of race then maybe somewhere behind the ignorance, is the way: the answer to peace. However, if like Ofili, we appreciated colour and in the appreciation of it we used it to make something beautiful; if we appreciated every skin tone as beautiful and recognised that diversity makes this world beautiful, then surely we could fight the injustice, hate and oppression of black women, all women and all those deemed different.

St George’s British International School.

Wanted in Rome is accepting contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 900 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s cultural

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www. aarome.org.

French Academy

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com. British School at Rome

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov. br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

FINNISH ACADEMY The Finnish Academy provides a base for Finnish students and researchers working in Italy, as well as promoting Finland’s work in the arts and humanities. Villa Lante, Passeggiata del Gianicolo 10, tel. 0668801674, www. irfrome.org.

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk.

FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org.

GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kulturinternational.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in

American Academy

May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Danish Academy

particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 3, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it.

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www. hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723, www.istitutopolacco.it.

tre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. Belgian Academy

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY Romanian Academy hosts The events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137. SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research cen-

Romanian Academy

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town APARTMENT FOR RENT IN THE HISTORIC CENTRE. Five minute walk to the Colloseum. The apartment was nicely refurbished into a modern and spacious flat (140 sqm). It consists of an entrance area, living room, dining room, dinette, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, laundry room (w/washer and dryer), full kitchen w/dishwasher, air conditioning throughout, alarm system, hard wood floors in all rooms except kitchen and bathrooms. The apartment is available as of 15 July for long-term rental. For further information please contact Mr. Celon, cell. 335 / 5284767. Photos available here https://apartmentviadelboschetto.shutterfly.com/pictures. INDEPENDENT VILLA FOR RENT ON CASSIA. Within easy reach of the American Overseas & Marymount International School, this villa features a private garden and spectacular view on the Insugherata Park. Just off Cassia, it is near S. Pietro Hospital and Corso Francia / Ponte Milvio. 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 balconies, a sun terrace, we rent partially furnished for 3 years. Ideal for families and a paradise for your dog. Please contact Federico Angeloni by WhatsApp, tel. +39 333 / 7817703. MANZONI AREA. Furnished, independent, with cooking facilities, studio flat for single person, €500 monthly for minimum of 6 months or more. Email: dellascala4@gmail.com. MONTEVERDEVECCHIO. Monteverdevecchio Ottavilla, bright furnished apartment 3rd floor with lift, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living room, kitchen, washing machine, dishwasher, WIFI. Available 1 July, €1.500 monthly, a.petro@libero.it, tel. 0039 349 / 4962562.

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

TRASTEVERE E CAMPO DE’ FIORI. Campo de’ Fiori - Trastevere deliziosi appartamenti arredati monolocali e bilocali, brevi e lunghi soggiorni a partire da €350/settimana, €900/mese. Contact rose@romerenting.com.

kitchen, bathroom 2 balconies, elevator, 9th floor, fast Wi-Fi, 10 min walk to Ottaviano station Metro Line A / bus. Wonderful view of St Peter’s cupola and close di district food market. Marina.a.j7@gmail.com.

CASSIA - PANORAMIC APARTMENT NEXT TO AMERICAN OVERSEAS SCHOOL. 125 sqm, 5th floor, 360 degree panoramic view over Insugherata Natural Park, just modernised, completely furnished, living room, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, eat-in furnished kitchen, carport, 2 terraces. Facilities: Custodian, parking, park, soccer field. It is available direct access to Insugherata Park. Contact studio. salera@gmail. com.

TRASTEVERE - S. COSIMATO. CHARMING, COSY APARTMENT. Apartment furnished, short term rent. One double bedroom on two levels with a study area, living room with double sofa bed, dinette kitchen, bath-

TRASTEVERE. Elegant, furnished, all comforts. Bright. Inner court yard. Big living room, bedroom, bathroom with shower, kitchinette. Short lets. €1.100 all inclusive. Tel. 338 / 9679731, marilu_vitali@ yahoo.it. PRATI CLOSE TO VATICAN. Furnished 90-sqm apartment, three bedrooms, open living,

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May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

room with tub. Visible on www.airbnb. it/rooms/11055843. €1.250 monthly. Tel. 338 / 5779670. HEART OF TRASTEVERE 100 M FROM PIAZZA S. MARIA. Living room, bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, balcony, travi a vista ceiling, cotto floor, fire place. TV set, Wi-Fi - 24/24 washing machine, air-conditioning etc. etc. Free from 1 March 2016. €1.300 all included. Tel. 335 / 6090827, mail sylcouppe@hotmail.it. Accommodation vacant out of town CAPRANICA AREA (VITERBO). TO RENT. 80 sqm flat, first floor in the main square of the Capranica village (XIII century), very bright and quiet, nice view. Two bedrooms, living room, fully furnished kitchen with working fireplace, 1 bathroom, 3 balconies. €400 per month. It could be furnished or not. For further information: tel. 349 / 6451790 / info_rent@yahoo.it. CASAL DO’ BASO SUMMER LETS. North of Rome spacious 3 bedroom/3 bathroom apartment in villa, private pool. Visit www.casaldobaso.com. SUTRI HISTORIC TOWER. Sutri 50 km N Rome roomy, fully restored beautifully furnished mediaeval tower living w/fireplace, big kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, small study, terrace, short or long period. Contact judyharris123@ gmail.com. TIVOLI - MANDELA. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €500 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Jobs vacant MOTHER-TONGUE TEACHERS. Urgently require qualified TEFL / CELTA mother-tongue teachers for company and in-school courses, interesting rates. Send CVs to frascati@ international-school.it for interview appointment. OFFICE ASSISTANT ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE. We are looking for energetic English mother tongue

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

office assistant for part time/full time seasonal work at our tour operations office. Candidate will need to be proficient with MS Office, understanding of Tourism, and good verbal skills in dealing with customer service. Please send CV or résumé to rome.marilena@ gmail.com. NANNY/BABY SITTER ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE (EUR). Looking for an experienced English mother tongue baby sitter to look after 2 kids (boy 3yo girl 1yo). Monday to Friday 1pm-6pm. Location Eur. References and driving license. Only mother tongue speaker considered. Please send CV to: mothertonguenanny@ gmail.com. RELOCATION ASSOCIATE. Principal Relocation Company seeks motivated, focused and goal oriented individual to work as a Relocation Associate. Experience in the relocation and/or immigration field an advantage, but not essential as full training will be given. Fluency in English and Italian is essential. Please send résumé/photo to careers@principalrelocation.com with ref: RA-RM. Only residents of Rome need apply. This is a junior entry-level position. enquiries@principalrelocation.com. QUALIFIED AND EXPERIENCED MATHS TEACHER REQUIRED. The ideal candidate has minimum 5 years experience teaching Secondary 1 and/or Secondary 2 Maths in an international school, a student-focused approach to teaching and learning and a basic understanding of Italian. Please send C.V. to office@castelliinternational.it. ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT / SECRETARY. Prestigious International law firm is looking for an Accounting Assistant / Secretary for its Rome Office.In order to apply the candidate must have International law firm environment experience Diploma in accounting or equivalent Two years experience as an assistant accountant Familiarity with the general secretarial activities. He/she will be working mainly with accounts payable, accounts receivable, bank reconciliation and budgeting. Excellent knowledge of Excel, Word and PowerPoint is required. Fluent written and spoken English language is a must. Autonomy, precision, flexibility and confidentiality are required. During the interview accounting, general computer skills, and English levels will be tested. Applicants should send a CV authorizing

personal data treatment pursuant to Legislative Decree no. 196/03. Only CVs written in English will be considered. Contact wantedinrome.aassistant@gmail.com. THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME IS LOOKING TO HIRE A BUSINESS ANALYST. The selected candidate will be required to participate in the annual University budget planning processes and produce specialized budget/actual reports, also consolidating information and data from different systems and sources within the University. He/she will be capable of providing advice to management on options to correct negative variances, be proactive in improving processes and methodologies to enable better reporting, analysis and financial advice. The ideal candidate must have at least two years of experience in a similar position, a University degree in Economics- Business Administration or Business Management, excellent knowledge of financial and managerial accounting, strong planning and analytical skills. He/she must be able to visualize and simplify complex data sets, must be computer literate with excellent knowledge of Excel (including Pivot Tables). Experience with SQL and relational databases. Required fluency in Italian and English (written and verbal). A résumé (quote re: FO1/2016), with at least 1 reference contact, is to be submitted by e-mail to humanresources@aur.edu or by fax to +39 06 58330992. Interviews will start as soon as possible and will be on-going until position is filled. AUR is an equal opportunity employer. LOOKING FOR BAR TENDER. Looking for bar tender with experience. English speaking. Needed urgently for prestigious Roman bar. Please take CV directly at Bar Perù on Via di Monserrato 46 or send email raggiovanni@ yahoo.com. MOTHER-TONGUE QUALIFIED ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIRED. Mothertongue qualified English teachers required for company courses in Anagnina area and Rome centre. Please send CV to info@trainingclub.com. IMPORTANT CASTING IN ROME. Studio Emme, Talent Agency in Rome, is urgently looking for new talents or young bilingual (speaking Italian - English) actors and actresses 13-18 years old, for lead role in prestigious tv series, new talents also (no experience). Please email to saramartinellistudioemme@gmail.com 065826540

/ 0658203082 www.studioemmeagency.com / www.studioemme.net. URGENTLY LOOKING FOR AN EXPERIENCED ENGLISH TEACHER FOR KIDS. Due to moving abroad I am urgently looking for an experienced English teacher for kids in order to teach English to our children, 6,9 and 11 yrs. We live in zona Aurelio/Villa Pamphili. If possible lessons should take place 1-2 a week or at weekends, preferably American native speaker. Please contact Daniela: 320 / 7557912. FINANCE ASSISTANT WANTED. The Multinational Force and Observers (MFO), an International Peacekeeping Organization, is seeking a Finance Assistant for its Rome Headquarters to assist the Disbursing Officer in accounts payable, staff compensation and treasury functions, as well as maintain the Travel Management application and conduct ad hoc projects. The ideal candidate should be a graduate from high school and have at least 2 years office experience in accountancy and knowledge of computerized systems, particularly SAP, and of MS Office applications. Italian working papers/EU citizenship required, as well as fluency in English and Italian. A two-year renewable contract with full benefits will be offered. Send full resume by e-mail to: MFO Personnel Officeemail@mfo.org. ENGLISH TRAINER. The Language Grid is seeking highly motivated, university educated Business English trainers. We offer long term national contracts, holiday pay, bonus and benefits, as well as career progression and training. Apply via email: info@ thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter. QUALIFIED MOTHER TONGUE ESL TEACHER FOR IMMEDIATE EMPLOYMENT. Private language school of English in Rome, Italy is seeking full/ part time teachers for the 2015/16 academic year in state schools. CELTA or equivalent teaching certificate required. Celtyl is a plus. Competitive salary/contract and vast resource centre available for teachers. Only native speakers. Send CV and cover letter to didactics@inenglish.it. ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIREDIMMEDIATE START. Berlitz Italy is among the world leaders in the field of language learning services. We are currently seeking English Language Instructors available immediately. Candidates must be native speakers

and have a degree, preferably with some teaching experience or teaching certification. Relevant working papers or visa a must! Would you like to work in a dynamic, international environment? Then this is the job for you! Interested? Please contact Ennio Recchioni at: workinrome@berlitz.it or ennio.recchioni@berlitz.it AUR IS SEEKING ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR AND DIRECTOR OF GENERAL EDUCATION. The American University of Rome invites applications for the full-time, tenure track position of Associate Professor and Director of the General Education program to begin on or before 29 August 2016. Candidates must have a Ph.D in a field within the Humanities that has relevance to the University’s curriculum, a commitment to teaching at the undergraduate level, extensive teaching experience in and familiarity with American teaching pedagogy, and research and/or scholarly work that involves Rome and/or Italy. Recent experience administrating and teaching in an American Humanities Core or General Education curriculum is a strong advantage. The successful candidate will teach courses within his or her discipline and in the General Education curriculum and will work with the Dean of Academic Affairs to strategically revise the General Education Program, will lead on its maintenance and assessment, and will liaise with faculty and administration. He or she will also serve the University through membership in committees and in other functions coordinated by the Dean of Academic Affairs and the President. General Education at AUR is well established, and this is an opportunity for a creative and energetic scholar to shape an exciting and challenging signature program, imparting a strong identity to the University and helping to form the graduates skilled in critical thinking and problem solving for which The American University of Rome has become known. The person appointed will contribute to its further growth by raising its academic profile through an active program of scholarship and excellence in teaching. Applicants should apply by email to humanresources@aur.edu (quote in the subject field Gen Ed 2016 and the candidates name). All applications must include: Cover letter that outlines scholarly work, administrative experience, and teaching philosophy Curriculum Vitae Three reference contacts. Short listed candidates will be interviewed via Skype or in person, then a campus visit. Application re-

view will begin 29 February and interviews will begin as soon as possible. AUR is an equal opportunity employer. AUR IS SEEKING FULL-TIME TEACHING FELLOW OR ASSISTANT PROFESSOR IN ENGLISH WRITING. The American University of Rome invites applications for a full-time position in English Writing to begin on or before 29 August 2016. Candidates must have a Ph.D in Literature in English or Rhetoric and Composition, a commitment to teaching academic writing in English, and experience teaching in or administrating an American university writing program. The initial contract is for two years, with the possibility of renewal.The successful candidate will teach within the Writing Program at AUR, and will work with the Dean of Academic Affairs to strategically revise the First-year Writing Program, to oversee the Writing Center, to maintain and assess the program, and to support faculty in initiatives involving writing across the disciplines. The First-year Writing Program at AUR is well established, and this is an opportunity for a creative and energetic professional to reshape the foundational writing courses as part of the larger general education requirements of the university. Applicants should apply by email to humanresources@aur. edu (quote in the subject field Writing 2016 and the candidates name). All applications must include: Cover letter that outlines scholarly work, administrative experience, and teaching philosophy Curriculum Vitae Three reference contacts. Short listed candidates will be interviewed via Skype or in person. Application review will begin 29 February and interviews will begin as soon as possible. Italian work papers are essential. AUR is an equal opportunity employer. EXPERIENCED, FUN NATIVE ENGLISH TEACHER WANTED. For private afternoon lessons, 1.30h twice a week in central Rome. The student is a male teenager with a rudimentary knowledge of the language. Please call +39 0697610631 to set up an interview.

lessons HELP TO PREPARE FOR A LEVEL AQA BUSINESS STUDIES EXAM. I’m 22, taking A level AS and A2 Business Studies exam in summer. Studied on Open College programme but need help in final months to prepare for May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

exams. Please contact me via email on cell 347 / 1125113. PRIVATE TUITION IN ENGLISH LANGUAGE, LITERATURE AND MATHS. Highly experienced British private tutor, over five years experience tutoring pupils across London and Europe in English Literature, History, Philosophy, Religious Studies and Entrance Examinations. Many years experience teaching English Language in Italy/Rome. Each session tailored around pupil’s needs. Contact danielle_hurren@hotmail.co.uk. Office to rent CO-WORKING TRASTEVERE/MONTEVERDE. Office space available in a lovely studio in Trastevere. Rent flexible to suit needs. Contact alicekiandra. adams@gmail.com. poetry ALL CARS ACCIDENTS LEADS TO ROME. The Town Council has stopped, maybe is afraid to die crushed over the asphalt. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

DAMNED ILLUSION. The way you kiss is like the one of a wife hardly left by her husband which goes to work. The difference is that you haven’t nor husband nor work. But kiss well. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. FRIENDSHIP. It isn’t important to know your name, it is sufficient to count the flights of the bees to discover how much honey there is inside of you. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. Property for sale in town PRIMA PORTA SALE. Sunny two bedroom apartment 68m with garden 400m including a granny flat 34m. Easy walk from train station. Contact michael.kornel@iol.it. Property for sale OUT OF town FLAT IN CASAPE ROMA ROMA. Flat in the castle, newly remodelled, fully furnished, 1 hour from Rome, 60sqm, ready to move into. Contact info@ personalshopperroma.it.

Rooms and flat shares S. MARIA MAGGIORE. Single room, between S. M. Maggiore and S. Giovanni, metro A/B, share bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Wi-Fi. Tel. 338 / 7911289. TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfortable and well equipped + kitchen use. Including internet. Tel. 339 / 7857565. Available as from March. Short lets ROOM TO LET. English/Italian lady rents sunny 4th floor room, private bathroom, wi-fi/tv, weekly cleaning, linen, kitchen use, motocarport, good bus service, near supermarket, bank, post office 5 mins walk Ponte Milvio, good bus service, 20 mins Vatican/citycentre, suitable student/professional profile, references required. Contact terrypeppiatt@alice.it.

May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 338 / 5094448 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

cinemas The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Alcazar Via Merry del Val 14, tel. 065880099 Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

May 2016 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Jewish Reform Group in Rome Congregation Lev Chadash, Piazza della Libertà 10, tel. 339 / 3824815, Shabbat services at 10.00, Friday night service once a month Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | May 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it