Wanted in Rome - June 2016 by Wanted in Rome

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art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 6

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no. 6 / june 2016 editorials

LAMPEDUSA Richard Hodges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 “GOD HAS NO COUNTRY” Mícheál MacCraith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 SUPERSTUDIO AT 50 Jacopo Benci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 FESTIVALS OUT OF TOWN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Opera notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 6 July and 3 August. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 26 June (for 6 July) and 24 July (for 3 August). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine. Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/05/2016 Detail of Piazza Cenci by Tracey Ran Zheng recently graduated from Rome’s Rhode Island School of Design with a BFA in illustration. Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

35 June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ARCHAEOLOGY

Richard Hodges

LAMPEDUSA

The president of the American University of Rome outlines how Lampedusa could turn to archaeology to help it through difficult times

lying south of Agrigento the blue begins, even on All Saints’ Day. An Ionian light, it is the ravishing glory of the Middle Sea. I went to Lampedusa in November 2015 in the footsteps of Pope Francis and political grandees, conscious that this miniscule Italian outpost had borne a heavy burden as it grappled with the lives and accursed deaths of thousands of migrants. Here, over the past 30 years, tragedy has mixed with mass tourism to give Lampedusa a peculiar notoriety in Italy and abroad. I came to offer the help of our students at the American University of Rome. Could they contribute to writing grants, preparing programmes, and even running projects in the field of internal relations, especially immigration issues, shouldering a little of the island’s burden? Speaking English, Italian and in some cases Arabic, might our students make a small contribution as Europe is challenged by a migration of biblical proportions? For our students, being embedded in the philanthropic front line might provide them with experience to engage in still greater challenges, because this migration is not set to cease soon. As the propeller plane settled towards the airfield, the shadowy outline

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

of Tunisia about 100km to the south became clear. The mayor was in her office. Giusi Nicolini has become a national figure, an articulate advocate for support for her people facing waves of impoverished, bewildered migrants from Libya. A self-confident woman who listens eagerly, she is not a natural politician, and is all the more fascinating for it. She is curious to hear how our university might help, but is not instinctively enthusiastic about promoting herself or her island’s circumstances. Her primary problem is to combat the kind of

corruption that has been endemic in Italy, and to improve the infrastructure on the island. But then I mentioned the name of Thomas Ashby, my distant (legendary) forebear as director of the British School at Rome – the first person to survey the archaeological remains on the Pelágie lslands (Lampedusa, Linosa and the uninhabited islet of Lampione) – and the mayor’s eyes beamed with delight. Ashby landed from HMS Banshee with the support of Rear Admiral Sir Assheton Curzon-Howe to make his survey in June 1909.

Lampedusa mayor and environmentalist Giusi Nicolini is the driving force behind plans to embrace the island’s cultural heritage to boost tourism.

Rabbit Island is a natural paradise and an important breeding ground for the endangered Loggerhead Sea Turtle. Photo Richard Hodges.

Lampedusa has grown its tourism since the first airfield was constructed in the 1960s. Perversely, after Colonel Ghaddafi fired two Scud missiles at the island’s US base in 1986 tourism rocketed upwards. Exact numbers of visitors to Lampedusa and its sister island, the extinct volcano of Linosa, appear to be vague. But there are roughly 70,000 beds offered by the island’s 6,000 inhabitants, and about 1,000 young Lampedusans. But much of the construction has been unregulated, and managed with the kind of speculative eye that characterises Andrea Camilleri’s sardonic stories of the Sicilian Inspector Montalbano. The mayor succeeded in obtaining piped water only two years ago, and many apartments are still not on the network. Her goal is to upgrade the island’s facilities. Confronting her is the island’s reputation, largely from an incident in 2010 when 800 migrants were stranded for three winter months on Lampedusa’s main street, the Via Roma. One of the island’s worst tragedies occurred in October 2013 when a boat carrying African migrants from Libya sank off its southern coastguard,

claiming 366 lives. The flotilla of coastguard vessels backed up by a legion of police on land and a discrete, state-ofthe-art reception centre just outside the town have all but airbrushed the migrants out of Lampedusan daily life. Forewarned by radar, the coastguard intercept the boats off shore and take their occupants to the reception centre – over 200 were brought ashore three days earlier – and swiftly these poor people are transferred to centres elsewhere in Italy. The efficiency is dazzling. The mayor has another objective: to raise the bar on the island for tourists, adding archaeology to the magic of its beaches. In her mind as she thinks of archaeology is her greatest achievement: in two words, Rabbit Island. Located just off the south coast of Lampedusa, the Isola dei Conigli (Rabbit Island) is one of Italy’s last remaining egg-laying sites for the Loggerhead Sea Turtle, a species endangered throughout the Mediterranean. Surveyed first by William Henry Smith in 1814-16 for the British Admiralty, this tiny offshore stack beside an arcing sandy beach where turtles nest, was home to rabbits, hence its name.

Anywhere else in Italy rampant construction would have consumed this piece of paradise. Championed by environmental agency Legambiente, of which Nicolini is a committed member, it is a swath of coastline worthy of the most majestic in Europe and often tops lists of best beaches. More than this, it is an enduring index of how a champion can make a place and so contribute to its economic sustainability. Now, add archaeology to the mix of the island’s resources, and Lampedusa can increase the vacationing season, and with it the island’s wider standing. The archaeological superintendency at Agrigento is sympathetic, masterminding a new museum on Via Roma, overlooking the new harbour. The talk is of the alarms, the electrics and winding staircase, then, with less assurance of Lampedusa’s treasures, Greek coins minted here with obverses depicting tuna, a statue dredged from the sea, Maltese Bronze Age farms, a late Roman cemetery and endless treasures secreted underwater. But, like Rabbit Island, there needs to be a vision. Hence, the appeal of Thomas Ashby. Ashby, an inveterate walker, surJune 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ARCHAEOLOGY veyed the island over two days in 1909. He found the remains of Bronze Age huts like those he had helped excavate on Malta and he reviewed the other remains belonging to a place that has attracted every quintessential Mediterranean interest – Punic, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arabic and, from recent times, the Bourbons – and then of course featured in the run-up to the Allied landings in 1943 on Sicily codenamed Operation Corkscrew, when British forces landed here in June of that year. Two monuments are musts on any visit. Three kilometres west of the town beside the coast road is a sanctuary, a grotto with an elegantly white-washed baroque façade. Dedicated to the Madonna of Porto Salvo, it is all that remains of a collection of mediaeval/early modern cave dwellings occupying this south-facing canyon. The pivotal facility here is a decorated wellhead. Given Lampedusa’s struggle with water supplies in recent times, it is important to note that Greek, Roman and later ships apparently berthed in the waters offshore to take on sweet water from a network of Lampedusan wells like this. Further west, beyond the track leading to Rabbit Island, just off the road, the European Union has supported the conservation of a traditional dry-stone farmhouse, the Casa Teresa. A longhouse in all but name, as Ashby pointed out in 1909, its broad walls and flat roof belong to an 18th-century Arab vernacular, probably early modern, from the 18th century. In its ensemble of walled gardens is a reconstructed threshing floor beyond which, occupying the far horizon, is the old American radar station, menaced by Libyan missiles in 1986. The restoration of this farmstead was only finished recently, but already bears the distressing hallmark of inattention; when we arrived the only other visitors were two knaves in military drill illegally trapping finches. So should the museum on Lampedu-

The recently restored Casa Teresa on the western part of the island dates to the 18th century.

sa’s main street simply house the odds and ends so far found on the island? Here is the challenge. Rabbit Island is breathtakingly simple in its minimal but well-constructed paths, shaded spots and signage. Designed for visitors with a penetrating perceptiveness of the importance of the views, the crystalline blue sea and the fragility of the sands for nesting turtles, it is a tribute to 21st-century thinking. Shouldn’t the new archaeological museum be as bold and forward-thinking? The walls of the present Archivio Storico on Via Roma, run by a charismatic enthusiast, Antonino Taranto, on behalf of an energetic local society, are covered with photographs, including Ashby’s. This little treasure-house hosts the endless stories that in combination make up the priceless history of this improbable place. That is, all except one story, the one that has lent Lampedusa its notoriety and drew Pope Francis and politicians here: the migrants. Modern Italy has learnt and coped with this ghastly humanitarian crisis. All involved deserve our admiration, as they are learning and acting – perhaps for specific political expediency in some cases – to implement humane

best practice. Now, surely the museum should be a portal not only to visiting places on these islands and finding pleasure in authentic treasures from the past, but also an opportunity to explain how the community has been shaped over time, confronting pirates, invasions and, of course, migrations. I did not meet or see one migrant, but I encountered an exceptional mayor in a place that is indelibly imprinted on my mind. As the plane thrust upwards and weaved around the massing storm clouds to pass over verdant volcanic Linosa, I could not get the sacred beauty of Rabbit Island out of my mind, and I harboured a secret and improper pleasure from my connection to Ashby, a truly great scholar who never wavered from faithfully recording the visceral conditions of people in places. Richard Hodges, an eminent archaeologist, is president of the American University of Rome and was director of the British School at Rome from 1988-1995. This article was published in Issue 76 of Current World Archaeology in April 2016. June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

HISTORY

Mícheál MacCraith

“GOD HAS NO COUNTRY”

Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty saved the lives of over 6,000 escapees in Rome during world war two

n 8 May a plaque was unveiled at the Vatican’s Collegium Teutonicum to honour the Irish priest Monsignor Hugh O’ Flaherty (1898-1964) for his work in rescuing Allied soldiers and Jews during world war two. After it was blessed by the rector of the college, two laurel wreaths were placed at the foot of the plaque on behalf of the Irish and British embassies to the Holy See. Ordained to the priesthood in 1925, following his studies in Rome, O’Flaherty was involved in a number of diplomatic postings in the early 1930s. In 1939 he was appointed to the Holy Office, now the Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith, and spent the next 20 years living at the Collegium Teutonicum. On Italy’s entry into world war two in 1941, O’Flaherty accompanied the papal nuncio to Italy in visiting prisoner of war (POW) camps in the north of Italy where thousands of Allied prisoners were confined. Unimpressed with the nuncio’s leisurely approach to his mission, O’Flaherty became much more involved. Travelling back to Rome from the north of Italy every night, he had the names of prisoners broadcast over

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty was known as the Scarlet Pimpernel of the Vatican. Photos courtesy of Hugh O’Flaherty Memorial Society.

HISTORY Vatican Radio to reassure their loved ones at home. No respecter of red tape, he did not endear himself to the Italian military authorities and was responsible for the removal of two commandants at Piacenza and Modena, over their poor treatment of prisoners. Eventually complaints were made to the Vatican about this meddlesome priest, and O’Flaherty had to step down from his position and return to his office job in the Holy Office. The Allied invasion of north Africa in 1942 meant this time there were Italian POWs to be traced and helped, with their families seeking help from the Vatican. This invaluable experience in helping POWs was to stand O’Flaherty in good stead. In July 1943 the Allies landed in Italy and the war started coming closer to Rome. The Fascists increased their searches in the capital for prominent Jews and well-known anti-Fascists in the aristocracy. Whenever some of these needed to go into hiding, O’Flaherty would direct them to reliable friends or to convents and monasteries. But this proved insufficient. The Irish monsignor hit on using his own residence, the Collegium Teutonicum, just outside the Vatican Walls but with extra-territorial immunity. One of his first guests was Princess Ninì Pallavicini whose palace was raided when her illegal radio was tracked down by the Fascists. O’Flaherty found her accommodation in the nuns’ quarters in the Collegium Teutonicum where she proved an invaluable assistance because of her skills in forging top-class identity documents. In July 1943 there were 74,000 known British POWs in Italy. Escapees tended to make their way to Rome and after the Italian surrender on 8 September, the trickle turned into a flood. Money, food and premises needed to be found urgently and it became much more dangerous after the German occupation of Rome on 11 September. O’Flaherty pointed out the gravity of the situation to Sir D’Arcy Osborne, British minister

Ireland’s ambassador to the Holy See Emma Madigan at the unveiling ceremony at the Collegium Teutonicum on 8 May, alongside O’Flaherty’s nephew Hugh O’Flaherty and niece Pearl Dineen.

to the Holy See since the beginning of the war and resident inside the Vatican Walls at Casa S. Marta, where Pope Francis now lives. Osborne replied that he could not compromise his diplomatic position nor the neutrality of the Vatican. But the monsignor insisted, saying that men would get sick and die in the mountains. Osborne relented, promising help from his own personal funds, and suggested that O’Flaherty talk to his butler John May. He added that he did not want to know any details so as not to compromise diplomatic relations with the Holy See. May recruited Count Sarsfield Salazar from the Swiss legation to set up the Council of Three which later became the Council of Four when British Major Sam Derry escaped to Rome. May was insistent that the team helping escapers needed a permanent organisation, that the operation was far too big for one man on his own. It was thus that the Rome Escape Line came into being. No Anglophile, given his personal experience of the Black and Tans during the Irish war of Independence, O’Flaherty explained his motivation to Derry in 1943: “When this war started I used

to listen to the broadcasts from both sides. All propaganda, of course, and both making the same terrible charges against the other. I frankly didn’t know which side to believe – until they started rounding up the Jews in Rome. They treated them like beasts, making old men and respectable women get down on their knees and scrub the roads. You know the sort of thing that happened after that; it got worse and worse, and I knew then which side I had to believe.” O’Flaherty found safe houses all over Rome. One of his most generous helpers was Henriette Chevalier, a 42-yearold Maltese widow with eight children who lived in a small apartment on Via dell’Impero (today Via dei Fori Imperiali). When he rented an apartment on Via Firenze, adjacent to the hotel that the Gestapo had commandeered as their Rome headquarters, he dismissed his friends’ concerns with the remark: “Faith, they’ll never think of looking under their noses.” Another valued accomplice was Delia Murphy, wife of the Irish minister to the Vatican. She often used the legation’s diplomatic-registered car to transport escaping prisoners through June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

HISTORY

The Collegium Teutonicum stands just outside the Vatican Walls on extraterritorial ground.

enemy checkpoints, well aware of the implications for Irish neutrality had she been caught. Her beautiful 19-year-old daughter Blánaid chatted up German officials at embassy receptions and often gained useful nuggets of information to pass on to O’Flaherty. As the escape network developed, O’Flaherty’s activities came to the attention of the occupying German authorities. Herbert Kappler, head of the Gestapo in Rome, began specificallay to target the monsignor, who had some hair-raising escapes. One of the most dramatic of these occurred when he was visiting Prince Doria Pamphilj at his palace on Via del Corso. A resolute anti-Fascist, the prince, who was married to a Scot, was a supporter of O’Flaherty and helped to finance his activities. When the Germans discovered O’Flaherty’s whereabouts they surrounded the palace. The game was up, or so it seemed. O’Flaherty went down into the basement and as luck would have it, the winter’s supply of coal was being delivered through a chute into the basement. Taking off his clerical robes and covering himself in soot, O’Flaherty whispered to one of the coalmen explaining his predicament. Some minutes later he walked out past the SS troops, black as the

ace of spades, the soldiers making way so as not to be contaminated by him. O’Flaherty made for the nearest church, washed, changed his clothes and returned to the Collegium Teutonicum. Kappler made at least three other unsuccessful attempts to capture O’Flaherty outside Vatican territory where his diplomatic immunity did not apply. One of these entailed hustling him across the white line separating Vatican territory from the Italian state, letting him go and having him shot when attempting to escape. Fortunately May was tipped off in advance. While the two Gestapo agents pretended to be piously attending Mass in St Peter’s, May got four Swiss guards to remove them from the basilica. Instead of escorting them across the white line, however, the guards led them into a side street still in Vatican territory. Here they were left to the tender mercies of a group of tough Yugoslav partisans on May’s instructions. Given his lucky escapes, it is little wonder that Monsignor O’Flaherty was known as the Scarlet Pimpernel of the Vatican. While meticulous records were kept of the POWs being helped through O’Flaherty’s escape line, details of names and payments being buried each night

in tin boxes in the Vatican Gardens, no such records were kept of Jewish escapees. However anecdotes survive. In one poignant case a Jewish man had approached O’Flaherty with his young son saying that he and his wife cared nothing for themselves, but could he save the boy? He gave O’Flaherty his gold watch to pay for his support. O’Flaherty took the boy, but also arranged to get his parents to safety. After the war the boy was reunited with his family, carrying his father’s watch. As soon as the war was over O’Flaherty turned his attention to helping Italian and German prisoners of war. When questioned as to why he was now helping the former enemy, his simple response was: “God has no country.” Kappler was sentenced to life imprisonment for war crimes, particularly for his leading role in Rome’s Fosse Ardeatine massacre whose 335 victims included five of O’Flaherty’s helpers and one priest. Kappler’s only visitor for his first ten years in captivity, at the military prison in Gaeta south of Rome, was his former enemy number one, Hugh O’Flaherty, who eventually received him into the Catholic church and baptised him in 1959. The official records for the Rome Escape Organisation at the time of the liberation show that they were helping 3,925 escapees. We don’t know how many civilians and Jews should be added to that, possibly as many again. The plaque at the Collegium Teutonicum simply states that O’Flaherty saved over 6,000 people. At the end of the film Schindler’s List, the Schindlerjuden gave Oscar Schindler a ring made of gold teeth fillings. It is inscribed with a quotation from the Talmud: “Whoever saves one life, saves the world entire.” A fitting epitaph, too, for Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty. Fr Mícheál MacCraith OFM is the Guardian of St Isidore’s College in Rome. June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ART

Jacopo Benci

SUPERSTUDIO AT 50

MAXXI celebrates the legacy of Italy’s foremost “radical architecture” group

he exhibition Superstudio 50 at the MAXXI in Rome celebrates the 50th anniversary of Superstudio, the most iconic among the groups of Italian “radical architecture” (a term coined, like arte povera, by critic and curator Germano Celant). Most of the radical architecture groups – Superstudio, Archizoom, Zziggurat, Ufo, 9999 – were born in 1966 and immediately afterwards, and hailed from Florence. Though the city had been the cradle of many epoch-making innovators (from Giotto, Masaccio, Brunelleschi, through Leonardo, Michelangelo, Galileo, up to the Florentine futurists and beyond), in the post-war years Florence was fettered by a cultural conservatism that was opposed by intellectuals such as architects Leonardo Ricci, Leonardo Savioli, Leonardo Benevolo, Giuseppe Gori, Giovanni Klaus Koenig, composers Giuseppe Chiari, Pietro Grossi, Sylvano Bussotti, and anthropologist Tullio Seppilli (some of whom taught or befriended the future members of Superstudio), and by the growing unrest of the generation born around 1940. This was compounded by the trauma of the catastrophic flood of the Arno on 4 November 1966. Superstudio came into being at that

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

Adolfo Natalini in the Superarchitettura exhibition, Gallery Jolly 2, Pistoia, December 1966. Photo Cristiano Toraldo di Francia.

very moment, when architect/painter Adolfo Natalini accepted his architect/ photographer friend Giuliano Toraldo di Francia’s invitation to share a studio on the Bellosguardo hill, after Natalini’s in town was flooded. On 4 December 1966, a month after the flood, an exhi-

bition called Superarchitettura opened at a small art gallery in nearby Pistoia, presenting an environment involving prototypes of furniture, objects, lamps strongly linked to pop art, created by Natalini – who exhibited under the name Superstudio – and a group of

art

Superstudio, Rescue of Italian historic centres (Italia Vostra), Florence, 1972. Photo Cristiano Toraldo di Francia.

fellow architecture graduates led by Andrea Branzi, who took the name Archizoom. Between 1967 and 1970 Natalini and Toraldo di Francia were joined by Roberto Magris, Gian Piero Frassinelli, Alessandro Magris and Alessandro Poli (who left in 1972). Throughout their activity spanning over 12 years, Superstudio never ceased to cross borders and break down walls between disciplines. Their “superarchitecture” phase (1966-68), consisted primarily of objects, lamps, furniture, sofas making use of industrial materials like polyurethane foam, coloured perspex or fibreglass, retaining a strong link to pop art. This gave way to a simplified “technomorphic” architecture (1967-68), inspired by contemporary monuments such as Cape Kennedy’s Vertical Assembly Building; the process of reduction then led to the adoption of a 3x3cm grid, design stripped down to its essential constituent elements, which became the base of the Misura/ Quaderna furniture (1969-70), the Architectural Histograms (1969) and then de-

veloped into the planetary scale of the Continuous Monument (1969-70), which Superstudio painstakingly represented in images created with collage, drawing and airbrush, translated into an extraordinary series of colour lithographs. Superstudio members were acutely aware of the role of images when they wrote “the myths of society take shape in the images society produces. The new objects are both things and images of things.” Although some of their projects for industrial buildings, houses, discotheques, shops and commercial spaces were built, and they participated in several national and international architectural competitions, their most widely known and influential production were the ideas, masterfully translated into memorable visual representations. The Continuous Monument – which was never meant as a celebration of the architectural mega-structure, but as the denunciation of its intrinsic connection with power and control – was abandoned as Superstudio’s critique of

architecture and the built environment led them to the dystopian “cautionary tales” of the Twelve Ideal Cities (1971), and further on to outline the possibility of a different form of existence, based on a planetary “supersurface” equipped with a network of energy supply points, which would provide support to the Fundamental Acts of existence: Life, Education, Ceremony, Love, Death (1972-73). Natalini had already pointed to this in a 1969 statement: “Modern furniture seems like a great race towards the most beautiful, the newest, the most functional. But no matter if one arrives earlier or later, the race is wrong. Therefore, the thing to do is not to participate in the race, but to get away from it as soon as possible and isolate ourselves, slowly to pick up the pieces of our lives and fashion the tools for survival, in order to meet the true needs.” A series of lithographs was created for Fundamental Acts and a cycle of five short films was planned, of which only two were realised, Supersurface – Life (1972) and Ceremony (1973). Even in usJune 2016 | Wanted in Rome

art ing the film medium, Superstudio combined different languages and techniques: still images shot with a rostrum camera, stop-motion animation, filmed segments (in Ceremony, members of Superstudio performed for the camera), with texts read in voice-over and in Ceremony, the use of Music with Changing Parts by Philip Glass. Gian Piero Frassinelli, whose 1968 graduation thesis already combined cultural anthropology with architecture, played an important role in Superstudio’s shift towards a more markedly anthropological slant. He wrote all the texts of the Twelve Ideal Cities, which also reflect his and his colleagues’ interest in science fiction. Superstudio’s late work included the installation Lot’s Wife (exhibited at the 1978 Venice Biennale alongside Zeno’s Conscience, an anthropological investigation of an old peasant’s material culture). This consisted of a zinc table with five models of monuments made of salt (a pyramid, a colosseum, a cathedral, the Versailles palace, Le Corbusier’s Pavilion of the Esprit Nouveau), slowly dissolved by water dripping from a suspended container; the salt water ran into a bin that contained the word Oblivion. The installation bore the subtitle “Architecture is to time what salt is to water”. When the last salt architecture, the Pavilion, was dissolved by water, it revealed a small plaque with the phrase “The only architecture will be our life.” Unlike most Italian intellectuals and artists in the post-war decades, Natalini and Toraldo di Francia spoke English. Natalini often went to London where he discovered the works of Phillip King, Derek Boshier, Joe Tilson, Eduardo Paolozzi, but also the projects and publications of Archigram. Toraldo di Francia lived in the United States in 1953-54 when his father Giuliano, a physicist and philosopher of science, taught in Rochester. This made it possible for Superstudio in the early 1970s to be invited to lecture at the Architectural Association

Superstudio, Fundamental Acts. Education. Project 1, 1971, lithograph. Courtesy Fondazione MAXXI.

in London (through the enthusiasm of young AA graduate Rem Koolhaas) and at Rhode Island School of Design (at the invitation of RISD faculty member Friedrich St Florian), and to participate in the seminal 1972 exhibition Italy: The New Domestic Landscape at the MoMA in New York. In Italy, conversely, Superstudio and radical architecture were attacked by authoritative critic and historian Manfredo Tafuri, who in his widely read books Progetto e utopia (1973), Architettura contemporanea (1976) and Storia dell’architettura italiana (1985) dismissed their works as “self-advertising exercises”, “late-romantic longings”, “orgy of graphic patterns”. The re-discovery of Superstudio in Italy began in the mid-1990s when a younger generation of architecture students came across the group’s texts and images in old issues of Casabella and Domus. The exhibition Superstudio 50 – curated by architect/historian Gabriele Mastrigli, who has researched Superstudio for several years – provides the most complete overview of the group’s work and includes a wealth of rare or previously unseen material. A monu-

mental red wall specifically designed by Superstudio forms the backbone of the display; and Il Monumento Continuo, the group’s first film project conceived in 1969 but never realised, is presented as a digital animation made in 2015 by video artist Lucio La Pietra following the original storyboard. The exhibition is accompanied by a definitive monograph, Superstudio. Opere 1966-1978 (Quodlibet), an 800page volume with 545 illustrations. Edited and with an introductory essay by Mastrigli, the book presents Superstudio’s work in chronological sequence and includes contributions by all three surviving members of the group. Cristiano Toraldo di Francia’s text reconstructs the “prehistory” of Superstudio and its relations to Florence. Besides being an essential companion to the exhibition, the monograph provides the foundation for any further research on a key component of contemporary Italian culture at large. The Superstudio 50 exhibition can be visited until 4 Sept. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scene tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Art Centre Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Borghese Museum

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127. private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery recently relaunched near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it. Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.

Monitor

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

Exposure #104: Brooklyn, Vanderbilt & Lafayette Avenues by Barbara Probst in The Lasting exhibition at GNAM.

Misericordia Madonna dei Raccomandati by Lippo Memmi at La Misericordia Nell’Arte exhibition at the Capitoline Museums.

Foto commemorative della cerimonia di diploma del corpo della Marina by Ken Domon at Ara Pacis.

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

exhibitions THE LASTING: L’INTERVALLO E LA DURATA 22 June-29 Jan 2017 The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna hosts an exhibition dedicated to “temporal dimensions” – specifically in relation to the concepts of intervals and duration – in the practice and poetry of art. The show features more than 30 large-scale works by 15 Italian and international artists, spanning various generations and media, including painting, sculpture, video and photography. In addition to a younger generation of artists, the exhibition includes work by Alexander Calder, Lucio Fontana, Antony Gormley, Barbara Probst, Hiroshi Sugimoto and Tatiana Trouvé. GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. L’ARTE DEL SORRISO: LA CARICATURA A ROMA DAL SEICENTO AL 1849 9 June-2 Oct Palazzo Braschi displays a collection of 120 caricatures from its own collection as well as from cultural institutes across Italy. Although produced by artists of the calibre of Bernini, Carracci and Da Vinci, this irreverent form of portraiture began to assert itself as a serious genre in its own right in the 18th century. The exhibition shows the work of three Italian artists from that era: Pier Leone Ghezzi, Carlo Marchionni and Giuseppe Barberi whose caricatures and handwritten notes in the margins provide an unusual and detailed insight into society at the time. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. HYURO: CONVIVENCIA 9 June-23 July The first Italian solo show by Argentin-

ian street artist Hyuro whose dreamlike work combines mysterious characters, socio-political messages and a surrealist sensibility. The artist will undertake an outdoor mural in Rome coinciding with her exhibition as part of the Dorothy Circus Gallery’s ongoing Spray for Your Rights project. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. LA MISERICORDIA NELL’ARTE 31 May-27 Nov Coinciding with the Vatican’s ongoing Holy Jubilee Year of Mercy, the Capitoline Museums examines the theme of mercy through paintings, sculpture, engravings and miniatures by Italian masters. The exhibition comprises works of art from across Italy, with highlights including paintings by Guido Reni, Jacopo Bertoia and Pierre Subleyras, as well as a bas-relief by Pietro Bernini, father of Gian Lorenzo. The museum also shows reproductions of two masterpieces that were deemed too precious to leave their homes in Naples and Sansepolcro respectively: the Sette Opere di Misericordia by Caravaggio, and the Polittico della Misericordia by Piero della Francesca. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. KEN DOMON: IL MAESTRO DEL REALISMO GIAPPONESE 27 May-18 Sept One of Japan’s most renowned photographers of the 20th century, Ken Domon (1909-1990) is best remembered for his photojournalism as well as his atmospheric images of Buddhist temples and statuary. The Ara Pacis honours the “maestro del realismo giapponese” with a retrospective containing 150 photographs, in both black and white and colour, taken between the 1920s and

Relaciones urbanas by Hyuro at Dorothy Circus Gallery.

1970s. The exhibition features images of life in Japan before and after world war two, including the aftermath of the Hiroshima bombing. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. BANKSY: GUERRA, CAPITALISMO & LIBERTà 24 May-4 Sept Palazzo Cipolla hosts the largest exhibition ever dedicated to the elusive British street artist Banksy, whose identity remains unknown. On loan from private collections around the world, the 150 works on display feature the most celebrated motifs by the artist and political activist from Bristol, including his famous rat series. As the title suggests, the exhibition focuses on themes central to Banksy’s work: war, capitalism and liberty. Over the years Banksy has courted notoreity and acclaim in equal measure for his stencil graffiti paintings which provide a subversive and satirical commentary on modern-day society. Palazzo Cipolla, Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www. fondazioneromamuseo.it. BRIAN ENO: LIGHT MUSIC 20 May-30 Sept The Galleria Valentina Bonomo in the Jewish ghetto presents an audiovisual installation by Brian Eno, the British multi-instrumentalist, composer, record producer, sculptor, painter and video artist. Eno, who is best known as a pioneer of electronic and ambient music as well as generative art, continues his exploration of vision, time, light and sound. The immersive

exhibition centres around light boxes, rectangular structures which generate endless combinations of shadow and colour, and speaker “flowers” mounted on long metal stalks that fluctuate depending on the sounds they make. Galleria Valentina Bonomo, Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. GIANNI BERENGO GARDIN: VERA FOTOGRAFIA 19 May-28 Aug The Palazzo delle Esposizioni chronicles the long career of Italian pho-

tographer Gianni Berengo Gardin who was born in the northern Italian region of Liguria in 1939 but has lived and worked in Switzerland, Rome, Paris and Venice. Acclaimed for his reportage work, Berengo Gardin is considered by many as the most important photographer in Italy in the latter part of the 20th century. The retrospective exhibition displays his most celebrated images along with his lesserknown work, offering a vera fotografia of his illustrious career. Palazzo delle Esposizioni 194, Via Nazionale, www. palazzoesposizioni.it.

Trolley Hunters by Banksy at Palazzo Cipolla. June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

conceptual sculptures, improvised instruments, records, posters and artists’ books on music by some of the leading figures associated with Fluxus. The show features work by artists including Joseph Beuys, John Cage, Philip Corner, and Yoko Ono. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com. CALLIGRAFIA E ARTE CALLIGRAFICA DEL PAKISTAN 6 May-10 July Under the subheading Styles and contemporary trends, this exhibition presents a collection of modern-day calligraphic works, in Arabic, by noted Pakistani artists. Museo Nazionale D’Arte Orientale Giuseppe Tucci, Palazzo Brancaccio, Via Merulana 248, tel. 064697481, www.museorientale.beniculturali.it.

Gianni Berengo Gardin’s image of a cruise ship in Venice on display at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Photo courtesy Fondazione Forma per la Fotografia.

MADE IN ROME 13 May-20 Nov Exhibition using archaeological artefacts and interactive technology to highlight the use of brands, logos, signatures and symbols of ownership in ancient Rome. Mercati di Traiano, Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via Quattro Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. CAMILLE HENROT: MONDAY 12 May-6 Nov The Fondazione Memmo presents the latest body of work by award-winning French artist Camille Henrot, along with a series of frescoes produced in situ for the foundation. Inspired by the “first and most chaotic day of the week”, the exhibition comprises large bronze sculptures, both figurative and abstract, as well as frescoes created using traditional methods mixed with found documents, paper and small objects. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Detail of A Long Face fresco by Camille Henrot at Fondazione Memmo.

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

FLUXUS: SENSE SOUND - SOUND SENSE 7 May-2 July Audiovisual exhibition dedicated to art works and musical scores and their relationship with Fluxus, an interdisciplinary movement of international artists, poets, composers and designers who experimented with fusing art and music in the 1960s and 1970s. The interactive exhibition comprises sound and

BARBARA SALVUCCI: INK 6 May-26 June Rome artist Barbara Salvucci tackles the theme of transformation with her latest black and white ink works which float across canvas and cloth like jellyfish. Salvucci is best known for her delicate sculptures made from lightweight stands of metal, wire and zinc. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it. LEILA VISMEH: LA CACCIA 6 May-25 June This collection of ten large and medium-sized paintings by Iranian artist Leila Vismeh was inspired by James Thurber’s modern fable The Rabbits Who Caused all the Trouble. Focusing on the oppressive relationship between the rabbits and the wolves, the story alludes to the events that unfolded during world war two. Vismeh transforms Thurber’s allegorical tale into a powerful comment on the historic, social and political situation in her homeland. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com. BARBARA DALL’ANGELO: THE POETRY OF EARTH 5 May-30 June The museum spaces of Rome’s S. Spirito in Sassia hospital host a photographic exhibition charting some of nature’s most spectacular sights from around the planet. Barbara Dall’Angelo’s 25 large-scale photographs depict images such as the northern lights over Iceland, a forest of rainbow eucalyptus trees in Hawaii, desert dunes in Namibia, forests in New Hampshire and swamps in Louisiana. The exhibition is organised by local health authorities and the Lazio

Foliage - New Hampshire in Barbara Dall’Angelo’s exhibition The Poetry of Earth at Polo Museale S. Spirito in Sassia.

Region, with the support of National Geographic Italy. Polo Museale S. Spirito in Sassia, Borgo S. Spirito 3. DALL’OGGI AL DOMANI: 24 ORE NELL’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA 30 April-2 Oct Exhibition focusing on the theme of “today” and the variety of ways in which the world measures time, from calendars to clocks. The 70 works on display were created using a wide variety of media including painting, photography, video, music, embroidery, and digital data processing. The exhibition includes works by modern and contemporary Italian and foreign artists such as Balla, Boetti, Breakwell, Cambellotti, Darboven, Ghirri, Kawara, Shemilt & Partridge. MACRO, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org.

STILL SHOWING TRIUMPHS AND LAMENTS 17 April-2 Oct MACRO presents an exhibition of works relating to the grand-scale mural highlighting seminal moments in Rome’s history by the internationally acclaimed South African artist William Kentridge. The show comprises more than 80 works in charcoal, pastel and ink, as well as cut-outs and videos, which led to the final design of the Triumphs and Laments project along the banks of the river Tiber. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.org.

ALPHONSE MUCHA 15 April-11 Sept Retrospective dedicated to the career of popular Czech artist Alphonse Mucha (1860-1939), best known for his Art Nouveau decorative depictions of women. On display are more than 200 of his works including paintings, posters, drawings and jewellery. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 066780664. TARYN SIMON: PAPERWORK AND THE WILL OF CAPITAL 14 April-24 June The Gagosian Gallery Rome presents an exhibition of the most recent body of work by multidisciplinary artist Taryn Simon. On display are 12 sculptures – stylised concrete flower-presses – and 36 large, colourful photos in mahogany frames. Following her participation in last year’s Venice Biennnale, this is the first solo exhibition in Italy for the New York artist whose work incorporates photography, text, sculpture and performance. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642746429, www. gagosian.com. CARAVAGGIO EXPERIENCE 24 March-3 July This high-tech, immersive exhibition at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni features 3-D images of 57 masterpieces by Caravaggio, offering viewers a “full sensory experience”, according to The Fake Factory, the video design company behind the project. The works

MAXXI SUPERSTUDIO. 50 YEARS OF SUPERARCHITETTURA 20 April-4 Sept Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the exhibition Superarchitettura, held in Pistoia in 1966, by the Italian architecture firm Superstudio. See article by Jacopo Benci on page 10. HIGHLIGHTS / VISIONS 11 March-4 June Under the theme of vision, this exhibition features works by Italian and international artists and architects from the MAXXI collection, including Sou Fujimoto, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Paolo Soleri, Luca Vitone, Franz West and Chen Zhen. PIER LUIGI NERVI: LE ARCHITETTURE PER LO SPORT 5 Feb-2 Oct Plans, models, photographs and three-dimensional graphic presentations for over 60 sports projects span the entire career of Italian architect Pier Luigi Nervi (1891-1979). MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

La caccia by Iranian artist Leila Vismeh at MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea.

by the 17th-century master are magnified and projected onto the museum’s walls, allowing a close examination of the paintings’ composition, theatricality and dramatic use of chiaroscuro. In addition to the high-definition projection system, whose sensory effects include music and fragances, the exhibition showcases sketches highlighting modifications made by Caravaggio as his paintings progressed. Palazzo delle Esposizioni 194, Via Nazionale, www. palazzoesposizioni.it.

La Princesse Lointaine by Alphonse Mucha at the Vittoriano.

ROMA ANNI TRENTA 24 March-30 Oct With the subheading La Galleria d’Arte Moderna e le Quadriennali d’Arte 1931 – 1935 – 1939, this exhibition at Rome’s municipal modern art gallery is dedicated to the first editions of the Quadriennale di Roma, a series of shows to promote contemporary Italian art, from the 1930s. On display are works by artists such as Capogrossi, Casorati, De Chirico, Donghi, Mafai, Marini, Scipione and Severini, alongside lesser known paintings and sculpture. The exhibition Ritratto di Alaide seduta in giardino by Cristiano Banti in the Macchiaioli exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante.

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provides an overview of the Italian art scene of the 1930s as well as its connections to the fascist regime which sought to use art to promote its vision of a resurgent Rome. Galleria d’’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. I MACCHIAIOLI 16 March-4 Sept The Chiostro del Bramante dedicates an exhibition to the Macchiaioli, a group of Italian painters active in Tuscany in the second half of the 19th century. In a similiar way to the Impressionists, the Macchiaioli spurned the outdated conventions of art academies, the artists painted en plein air to capture natural light, shade and colour. The exhibition comprises some 120 works, many of which have long been hidden in private collections. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. CORREGGIO AND PARMIGIANINO: ART IN PARMA IN THE 16TH CENTURY 12 March-26 June The Scuderie del Quirinale showcases the art of Parma in the first half of the 16th century, a golden age for the city whose most celebrated artists Correggio (1489–1534) and Parmigianino (1503–1540) contributed greatly to the Italian Renaissance. The exhibition presents a selection of paintings and drawings by both artists who were best known for their religious and mythological paintings. Also on display are works by other artists from the so-called School of Parma. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

NEW STREET ART IN ROME Alice Pasquini, Gaia and Fintan Magee create street art in Rome’s suburbs

Alice Pasquini mural inspired by Gianni Berengo Gardin. Photo Jessica Stewart.

Roman street artist Alice Pasquini has created a new mural in the capital featuring a couple kissing based on the famous image taken in Paris in 1954 by Italian photographer Gianni Berengo Gardin whose work is currently the subject of an exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni (see page 21). The mural, located on Via Bartolmeo Fanfulla in the Pigneto district, is painted in Pasquini’s trademark pastel shades. Elsewhere, American street artist Gaia has created a mural entitled Uneven Humanism on the façade of the Caravaggio high school on Viale Carlo Tomasso Odescalchi 75, in the Tor Marancia neighbourhood. The colourful work, which features butterflies and smiling children, is themed around migration. The mural is located a couple of blocks away from the Big City Life street art project which contains the Spettacolo, Rinnovamento, Maturità mural by Gaia. The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. In the west Rome suburb of Photo Blind Eye Factory. Primavalle, Australian artist Fintan Magee created The Roadkill, a 16m-high mural of a girl holding the head of a stag on Via Cristoforo Numai, coinciding with his recent exhibition at Galleria Varsi. Uneven Humanism by Gaia.

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

Riccardo Muti, who celebrates his 75th birthday in June returns to La Scala in January 2017 to conduct the Chicago Symphony Orchestra.

CLASSICAL FLORENCE MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO 24 April-4 July Maggio Musicale festival continues throughout June, with the Rovereto Wind Orchestra conducted by Andrea Loss making its first appearance at the festival on 5 June with two premieres, Maggio Fanfare by Paolo Frizzarin and Franco Cesarini’s Archangels symphony. There is a recital by Diana Damrau on 9 June conducted by Zubin Mehta, who also conducts Beethoven’s Missa Solemnis on 18 June. La Scala Filarmonica conducted on Myung-Whun Chung performs on 19 June, the Vienna Philharmonic on 28 June conducted by Daniele Gatti, the Berliner Philharmonica on 30 June conducted by Yannick Nézet-Séguin and the St Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by Yuri Temirkanov closes the festival on 4 July. On 24 June, to celebrate the saint’s day of John the Baptist, there is an open air concert by the treble voices of Maggio Musicale Fiorentino conducted by Lorenzo Fratini outside the cathedral of S. Maria dei Fiori. For full programme details see Maggio Musical website, www.operadifirenze.it.

MILAN RICCARDO MUTI 5 June A special exhibition celebrates Riccardo Muti’s 75th birthday. It was also announced in May that Muti, probably Italy’s best-known conductor, will return to La Scala to conduct two con-

certs early next year (21-22 Jan) as part of the European tour of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra which he directs. Muti was the musical director and principal conductor at La Scala from 1986-2005 until he was forced to leave by labour disputes and management difficulties. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. RICCARDO CHAILLY 8-11 June Riccardo Chailly conducts La Scala Filarmonica with piano soloist Radu Lupu in a programme of music by Schumann. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. RICCARDO CHAILLY AND MARTHA ARGERICH 12 June La Scala’s annual open-air concert in front of the Duomo. Argerich will play music by Ravel in a programme that includes the The Firebird Suite by Stravinsky and the Sorcerer’s Apprentice by Paul Dukas. The open-air concert is part of La Scala’s programme to attract the young and people who do not usually go to either concerts or the opera. Piazza del Duomo. MAURIZIO POLLINI 20 June A solo performance by the great Italian pianist who will play music by Chopin and Debussy. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME Most of the classical music seasons in

Rome have now come to an end and the summer musical festivals have started. To contact the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA I GIARDINI DI LUGLIO 2016 July The detailed programme had not been announced but as usual throughout July there are musical happenings in the Filarmonica’s gardens just five minutes walk from Piazza del Popolo along Via Flaminia. The beautiful setting provides an ideal background for summer music, dance, meetings and film screenings for both professionals and young performers. There are also refreshments available. Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE S. CECILIA YUJA WANG 4-7 June The young Chinese pianist gives a concert with by Kodaly, Ravel and Stravinsky conducted by Lionel Bringuier, who was Gustavo Dudamel’s assistant at the Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra before taking up his present position with the Tonhall Orchestra in Zurich. Accademia di S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. COSì FAN TUTTE BY MOZART 23, 27 June Semyon Bychkov conducts this Mozart favourite with a cast of young singers as the final concert in the S. Cecilia season. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

POP, ROCK, JAZZ GRAHAM NASH 4 June Concert by the English singersongwriter and musician known for his light tenor voice and for his songwriting contributions as a member of the English pop group The Hollies and later the folk-rock supergroup Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young. Nash will be supported by American folk rock singer-songwriter and musician Marc Cohn whose song Walking in Memphis was an international hit in 1991. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com. Robert McDuffie at the Rome Chamber Music Festival.

Yuja Wang plays at S. Cecilia from 4-7 June.

BEETHOVEN’S 9th SYMPHONY STREAMED LIVE FROM ARGENTINA 5 July This special concert will be streamed live from Argentina at the central tennis courts at the Foro Italico in Rome. Antonio Pappano, who will be with the S. Cecilia orchestra on tour in Argentina, will conduct Beethoven’s 9th symphony with Rachel Willis-Sorensen soprano, Ardiana Di Paola contralto, Brenden Gunnell tenor and Thomas Tatzi bass. Foro Italico. ROME CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 26-31 June The festival, now in its 13th year, takes place in the majestic setting of the Salone Pietro da Cortona at Palazzo Barberini. The programme features 50

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

musicians playing classical and contemporary chamber music. Two highlights this year are a multimedia theatrical presentation of Stravinsky’s Histoire du soldat directed by Enrico Stinchelli (29 June) and Mike Mills of the band R.E.M. who will perform his new composition Concerto for violin, rock band and string quintet (30 June) dedicated to the festival’s director and violinist Robert McDuffie. There is also a programme for 26 specially selected young musicians who will be coached by the festival’s guess artists. The first evening of music on 26 June is by invitation only but the programme is repeated the following evening. For the full programme see www.romechamberfestival.org. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 1313, www.romechamberfestival.org.

DURAN DURAN 7 June Rome concert by Duran Duran, one of the most successful bands of the 1980s. Starting out as part of the New Romantic scene, the musicians’ catchy tunes, good looks and controversial music videos became synonymous with the MTV generation, earning them the nickname the “prettiest boys in rock”. The group is best known for hits such as Come Undone, Ordinary World, and Save a Prayer. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245. DAVID GILMOUR 2-3 July Tickets are on sale for two summer concerts by former Pink Floyd guitarist David Gilmour at the Circus Maximus on 2 and 3 July. Gilmour comes to Rome as part of his worldwide tour promoting his fifth solo album Rattle That Lock, released last September. The musician will also join his former bandmates in a Pink Floyd reunion concert in the amphitheatre at Pompeii, 45 years after the group recorded an acclaimed documentary at the ancient Roman site. GLEN HANSARD 6 July Irish singer-songwriter Glen Hansard returns to Rome to promote his latest album Didn’t He Ramble. Hansard is best known as the lead singer with Dublin group The Frames, and one half of folk rock duo The Swell Season. His song Falling Slowly, co-written with Markéta Irglová, featured in the 2007 film Once and won the Oscar for Best Original Song in 2008. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245. BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN 16 July Tickets, starting at €98, are still available

for the much-anticipated concert by American rocker Bruce Springsteen at the Circus Maximus. Accompanied by his E Street Band and special guests Counting Crows, Springsteen’s Rome concert concludes his European River Tour and will be his ninth in the capital. The River Tour features tracks from his successful 1980 double album The River, as well as other Springsteen classics. SANTANA 19 July Santana comes to town as part of the veteran band’s Luminosity tour. Fronted by Mexican-American musician Carlos Santana the group became famous in the late 1960s for pioneering a fusion of rock and Latin American music,

combining blues-based guitar with timbales and congas. The best known for tracks such Oye Come Va and Black Magic Woman. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com. IRON MAIDEN 24 July This veteran English heavy metal band has sold an estimated 90 million albums worldwide since forming in London in 1975. The group is best known for its hugely successful 1982 album The Number of the Beast which topped the UK charts and was certified platinum in the US. The band will be supported in Rome by special guests Saxon, Anthrax and Bullet For My Valentine. See Rock in Roma website, www.rockinroma.com.

festivals FAST FORWARD FESTIVAL 27 May-9 June 10 performances of contemporary dance theatre in ten days. This is Rome’s first festival of contemporary musical theatre organised by the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma under the auspices of its president, Carlo Fuortes, with the artistic direction of Giorgio Battistelli. Some of the works, which combine dance, music, theatre and opera will be performed for the first time in Rome. The performances take place across the city. For more details of the programme see www.operaroma.it. ¡FIESTA! 1 June-Sept The 22nd edition of the festival that brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome. Each year Latin American dancers and singers take to the stage, providing over 100 hours of live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures. Highlights this month include Secreto (3 June), Osmani Garcia (9 June), and Yomil y El Dany (30 June). Located at Parco Rosati in the city’s EUR district, the festival is designed to raise awareness of Latin American culture and act as a bridge between Italians and the 100,000 Latin Americans living in the Lazio region. Via delle Tre Fontane 24, tel. 0687463296, www.fiesta.it.

Regular Rome visitor Glen Hansard performs for Rock in Roma.

Iron Maiden play in Rome 40 years after forming in London.

ROCK IN ROMA 7 June-24 July Rock in Roma is a major summer-long event dedicated to rock music, hosting over one million fans and some of the world’s biggest-name rock bands since it began in 2009. This year the line-up includes rock as well as other genres of music, and kicks off on 7 June with Duran Duran, followed by Nightwish (8 June), Lukas Graham & Joan Thiele (21 June), Blackberry Smoke (28 June), Joe Satriani, Steve Vai, and The Aristocrats (2 July), David Gilmour at the Circus Maximus (2,3 July), Glen Hansard (6 July), Suede & Stereophonics (11 July), Slayer (12 July), The 1975 (13 July), Skunk Anansie (15 July), Bruce Springsteen at the Circus Maximus (16 July), Primal Scream (18 July), and Iron Maiden (24 July). With the exception of the Circus Maximus concerts by Gimour and Springsteen, the action normally happens on three different-sized stages throughout the Rock in Roma racecourse site near Ciampino, and there are shuttle buses for fans from Termini station. For more details see Rock, Pop, June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Massive Attack for Luglio Suona Bene at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Jazz section on page 28. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www.rockinroma.com. MONDOFITNESS 8 June-11 Sept This annual festival is billed as the biggest sporting event of the Roman summer and always attracts large crowds of sporty types and health enthusiasts. Now in its 17th edition, the festival’s open air gym covers 30,000 sqm and provides classes in 40 sporting activities from aerobics to yoga, as well as martial arts, boxing, rowing, dance and beach sports. The festival is family friendly and also offers the chance to meet new friends at the many sporting, social and cultural events taking place each evening. Viale Tor di Quinto 55/57, tel. 0633225155, www.mondofitnessroma.com.

Kula Shaker perform by the lake at Villa Ada.

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LUGLIO SUONA BENE 14 June-3 Aug Now in its 14th edition, this annual initiative has gained a sturdy reputation for the quality and variety of its musical programme with a concert most evenings throughout July, and either side, in the Auditorium’s central open-air “cavea”. Pop, rock, world music, jazz, electronic, even classical, the wide-ranging programme caters for all tastes. The festival kicks off with José Carreras on 14 June, with highlights including Jack Savoretti and The Dirty Romantics (4 July), Cyndi Lauper (7 July), Keith Jarrett (12 July), Joan Baez (18 July), Santana (19 July), Massive Attack (26 July), Sting (27 July), Mika (31 July), ending on 3 Aug with Sean Paul. All concerts begin at 21.00. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 0680241281, www.auditorium.com.

VILLA ADA: ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO 30 June-31 July The 23rd edition of Rome’s annual world music festival returns to the shores of the little lake in the gardens of Villa Ada this summer. The event, whose name translates as “Rome meets the world”, offers interesting multi-ethnic and multi-cultural music in very pleasant surroundings. The programme begins on 30 June with Levante, followed by Bombino (3 July), Black Mountain (4 July), Wilco (5 July), Roma Brucia (8-9 July) ,The Alan Parsons Project (11 July), Tyler the Creator (13 July), Tiromancino (14 July), Kula Shaker (15 July), Tortoise (16 July), Lucinda Williams (18 July), Gramatik (20 July), Niccolò Fabi (22 July), and ending on 31 July with Dub FX. The festival area opens each night at 20.00 so that the public can enjoy food and drink from one of the ethnic food stalls before the music kicks off at 22.00. Villa Ada, Via di Ponte Salario, tel. 0641734712, www.villaada.org.

FESTIVALS OUT OF TOWN SPOLETO 24 June-10 July Spoleto, once one of the most famous of Italian festivals when it was under the guidance of Gian Carlo Menotti, has never quite managed to get back on the road. This year it has more funding from the ministry of culture but it still seems to be searching for a new raison d’etre. There is only one opera, La Nozze di Figaro (there used to be several) in a new production conducted by James Conlon, directed by Giorgio Farrara with the Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra which was founded by Riccardo Muti. The same goes for dance with only one date on 25 June. However this Carmen looks promising with Eleonora Abbagnato, who now heads the rejuvenated ballet corps of the Rome opera theatre, heading the cast in Amedeo Amodio’s choreography. In the art section there is an exhibition dedicated to Canova, which illustrates the connection between the great sculptor and Umbria. Two new works by sculptor James Capper, called Telestep and Atlas, and an exhibition by Daniel Spoerri called Bronze Age curated by the most revered of all Italian art critics, Achille Bonito Oliva. There are plenty of what are randomly called “events” and a long list of Italian contemporary theatre with a nod to Shakespeare in a work called Julius Caesar. Spared Parts. Thankfully there are still the traditional noon-time and eve-

programme features three great women of Greek theatre – Electra by Sophocles (until 18 June), Alcestis by Euripides (until 19 June) and Phaedra by Seneca (23-26 June). See the website of the Istituto Nazionale del Dramma Antica, www.indafondazione.org.

James Capper’s sculpture Telestep at this year’s Spoleto Festival.

ning concerts in the church of S. Eufemia and the piazza concerts in Piazza del Mercato. There is also Spoleto Cinema in the Spotlight with re-runs of old French and Italian classics which we have all seen before. There is not much this year to bring back the thrill of the old Spoleto festival. www.festivaldispoleto.com. RAVENNA 13 May-13 July This year the programme’s festival is dedicated to the value of freedom and in particular to Nelson Mandela, based on two quotations, one from Dante: “I seek Liberty”, and the other by Mandela: “I have walked that long road to freedom.” This top quality festival, launched by Riccardo Muti in 1990, is now one of Italy’s most comprehensive, imaginative and well financed. It includes art exhibitions, concerts (classical, contemporary and jazz), dance, cinema and more. Some of the highlights include a contemporary music concert titled Perduto in una città d’acqua, with music by Salvatore Sciarrino, Michele Foresi, Alessandro Ratoci and Luigi Nono (3 June); the Cape Town Opera with Mandela Trilogy (9 June); Cellolandia in which Giovanni Solimma’s 100 cellos will take the festival and Ravenna by storm for a week (12-18 June); performances by Muti’s Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cerubini, the Mahler Chamber Orchestra conducted by Daniel Harding (19 June); two jazz concerts inspired by Mandela and South African music (20-23 June); Folia Shakespeariana in the park with actress/directors Chiara Muti and Elena Bucci (22 June). The dance programme includes Twyla Tharp (the same

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programme as the one to be performed in Rome at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 26 June (see Dance), a choreography by Micha van Hoecke called Chanteuse des Rues dedicated to Edith Piaf and Jean Cocteau (28 June); Svetlana Zakhavrova and the stars of the Bolshoi and La Scala (30 June); the Batsheva Dance company (6 July); the San Francisco based Alonzo King Lines Ballet (9 July), Michael Nyman and Water Dances (23 July). There are also days dedicated to Irish music (25 June), the Danube (1 July), and to Italy-Japan friendship (3 July). Add to this the Tallis Scholars (27 June), The Westminster Boys Choir (4 July), Joan Baez (13 July) and the daily homage to Dante Alighieri every morning at his tomb and you have the measure of this imaginative festival. It is also worth downloading the festival programme for the beautiful images of the world’s top freedom fighters – Mandela, Ghandi, the Dalai Lama, Ghandi, Aung San Suu Kyi, Martin Luther King, Angela Davis, Malala Yousafzai. Events take place around the city, for the full programme see the website www. ravennafestival.org. TEATRO GRECO DI SIRACUSE 13 May-26 June Classical Athenian drama in the Greek amphitheatre in Syracuse. This year’s

VERONA ARENA FESTIVAL 24 June-28 Aug There are five operas in the festival this year; Bizet’s Carmen (24 June-27 Aug), Aida by Verdi (25 June-28 Aug), La Traviata by Verdi (2 July-30 July), Turandot by Puccini (23 July-25 Aug) and Il Trovatore by Verdi (6 Aug-26 Aug). Three of the operas are classic Zeffirelli re-runs (Carmen, Turandot and Il Trovatore). La Traviata is a Hugo De Ana production from 2011 and the staging of Aida is the version that dates back to 1913. On 18 July there is the usual evening with the ballet star Roberto Bolle and friends. The Arena is in considerable financial and administrative difficulty but this year’s programme is not at risk. Arena di Verona, www.arena.it. MORE FESTIVAL DATES Starting 20 June. Ravello Festival. No programme is available at present. This is another festival that has been having financial difficulties but it is always a spectacular event, staged as it is in Villa Ruffo on the Amalfi coast. It also usually manages to engage top-class musicians. www.ravellofestival.com. 7-19 July. Umbria Jazz 9 July-10 Aug. Teatro dell’ Opera di Rome in the baths of Caracalla 22 July-14 Aug. Macerata Opera Festival in the Sferisterio 14-30 July. Bolzano Danza. 14 July- 5 Aug. Festival della Valle D’Itria

theatre IF LEAR HAD A LAWYER 9 June The Institute for Creative Writing at John Cabot University presents a staged reading of Don Carroll’s play If Lear had a Lawyer. Carroll is an American attorney

and long-term Rome resident who also performs and directs with the city’s English theatre companies. This is his first play and is based on Shakespeare’s King Lear from a lawyer’s perspective. Following the reading, directors Harriet Power and Robert Hadley will host a post-show discussion. 18.00-20.30. John Cabot University, Aula Magna Regina, Via della Lungara 233, www.johncabot.edu. ARTS IN ENGLISH 10-11 June Arts in English presents Welcome to Berlin, a new production based on the musical Cabaret. Set in the 1930s, this new production promises “fantastic choreography and show-stopping music.” Tickets available only through Arts in English, tel. 330 926387 or email artsinenglish@outlook.com. Teatro della Cometa, Via del Teatro di Marcello 4, www.artsinenglish.it. ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 24 June The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity (in English) includes MC for the evening Liz Knight, with regulars Marsha De Salvatore, Francesco De Carlo and José A. Salgado. Doors open as usual at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere.

dance MILAN SWAN LAKE 30 June-31 July A new production of Tchaikovsky’s classic with staging and additional choreograpahy by Alexei Ratmansky and the La Scala ballet company. This is a co-production with the Zurich Opera House. Ratmansky was the director of the Bolshoi Ballet until 2008 and is now artist in residence at the American Ballet Theatre. Teatro alla Scala, Via Folodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME FESTIVAL BALLET-EX 6 June Soloists and dance companies get a chance to perform either original choreographies or repertorie pieces. The festival is for teachers, students and choreographers. It is open to dancers from six years and older in three groups, six to ten years old, 11-15 and 16 upwards. Solo performances must not be longer than four minutes and

group ones not more than six minutes. There will be prizes for all classes at the festival which takes place at Teatro Olimpico. For more information see www.balletex.com and www.teatroolimpico.it. SERATA NUREYEV 22-26 June Evenings at the Baths of Caracalla (see Festivals) dedicated to two of Nureyev’s choreographies from Swan Lake and La Bayadère which are staged by Patricia Ruanne, who worked with Nureyev at the Paris Opera and is now one of the leading experts of his ballets. With Friedemann Vogel, the principal dancer of the Stuttgart Ballet and the ballet company of the Teatro del Opera. Baths of Caracalla. RAFEAL MARGO TIEMPO MUERTO 25 June This is the latest work by flamenco dancer and choreographer Rafael Amargo, with music by flamenco composer Juan Parrilla. This is part of the Luglio Suona Bene programme at Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. TWYLA THARP DANCE UNA SERATA DI QUATTRO DANZE 26 June The programme includes the world premiere of the choreography to Beethoven’s Opus 130 danced by Matthew Dibble before it goes on tour in New York later this year. Also Country Dances (1976), Brahms Paganini (1980) and Sinatra Suite (1983) commissioned by Baryshnikov for the American Ballet Theatre. Part of the Luglio Suona Bene programme at Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

opera FLORENCE DIANA DAMRAU WITH ZUBIN MEHTA 9 June A recital by soprano Diana Damrau conducted by Zubin Mehta of works by Mozart and Johann Strauss. As part of the Maggio Musicale Festival. For the full programme see www.operadifirenze.it. FLORENCE OPERA SUMMER SEASON 20 June-26 July There are three operas during the Florence opera summer season, L’Elisir D’Amore by Donizetti (20-26 July) in a new

Friedemann Vogel will dance two Nureyev choreographies at the Serata Nureyev at the Baths of Caracalla.

production, Il Barbiere di Siviglia by Rossini (23 June-27 July) directed by the brilliantly innovative Damiano Michieletto to mark the bicentenary of its first performance and the much loved La Traviata by Verdi (3 July-25 July) in a new production. Opera di Firenze, Piazza Vittorio Gui, www.operadifirenze.it.

MILAN PIOTR BECZALA 12 June The Polish tenor, who has just made his Wagner debut as Lohengrin at Dresden opera house along with Anna Netrebko to sell-out performances, gives a recital of music by Schumann, Karlowicz, Dvorak and Rachmaninov, accompanied by Sarah Tysman on the piano. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org. L’HEURE ESPAGNOLE L’ENFANT ET LES SORTILÈGES BY RAVEL Until 16 June Two operas by Ravel come from Glyndebourne, directed by Laurent Pelly and conducted by Marc Minkowski, with mezzosoprano Marianne Crebassa in the main role. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org. DER ROSENKAVALIER BY RICHARD STRAUSS 4 June-2 July From Salzburg to Milan, and according to some opera critics this production which marks the 150th anniversary of the Salzburg festival is one of the best in the last decade. It is directed by Harry Kupfer, German’s top opera director, and conducted by Zubin Mehta. It is set in Vienna at the beginning of the 20th century, a period of momentous June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

change, rather than the 18th century as Strauss had envisaged. But there is little in the production to indicate either that this was a period of social and cultural upheaval in the city, or that this elegant production is directed by the one-time enfant terrible of German opera. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org. JOSE CARRERAS 14 June The Spanish tenor opens the Luglio Suona Bene festival with A Life of Music a personal repertoire of the pieces that have most influenced his life and career. La Cavea, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin. SIMON BOCCANEGRA BY VERDI 18 June-8 July This is among the highlights of the La Scala season with Leo Nucci and Placido Domingo in the title role. It also sees the return of conductor Myung-Whun Chung, one of the top conductors of Verdi operas, to La Scala after highly successful performances of the same opera at La Fenice in Venice where he won the Italian music critics Abbiati Award as best conductor. This is a coproduction with the Berlin Staatsoper. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 24 May-30 June This is Sofia Coppola’s debut as a director of opera so it is something of a coup for Rome’s opera house. The production is the idea of Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti and is one of their foundation’s first opera projects. Costumes are designed by Valentino who was behind the choice of Coppola as director after the success of her film Marie Antoinette. Jader Bignamini is conducting with Francesca Dotto and Maria Grazia Schiavo alternating in the role of Violetta and Antonio Poli and Arturo Chacón-Cruz as Alfredo. Dotto received excellent reviews for her interpretation of Violetta earlier this year at La Fenice in Venice, while Maria Grazia Schiavo made her debut in the role only last year at S. Carlo di Napoli. Poli is another young Italian tenor who performed in Gianni Schicchi at the opera house in April. Chacón-Cruz, a protégé of Placido Domingo, has already made a name for himself among international audiences. Thanks to Valentino this is another feather in the cap for Rome opera house after a season of new and adventurous productions. Teatro

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

Myung-Wung Chung conducts Simon Boccanegra at La Scala at the end of June.

dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operadiroma.it. LINDA DA CHAMOUNIX BY DONIZETTI 17-28 June Conducted by Riccardo Frizza and directed by Emilio Sagi with Australian soprano Jessica Pratt in the lead role and the Spanish tenor Ismael Jordi as Carlo. A co-production with Barcelona’s Gran Teatre del Liceu. Donizetti’s opera premiered in Vienna in 1842 and had considerable success in the decades after, particularly in Italy, but was then neglected throughout most of the 20th century, usually performed in concert form only. Although it features one of Donizetti’s best arias “O luce di quest’ anima” it is now mainly a showcase for coloratura sopranos. This is a first for both conductor Frizza, Pratt and Jordi. Although the 2011 debut of the Sagi production in Barcelona boasted opera stars Diana Damrau and Juan Diego Florez it was not very successful. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operadiroma.it.

CARACALLA OPERA The operas for the Teatro dell’ Opera summer season 2016 at the Baths of Caracalla are Nabucco (9 July-9 Aug), Il Barbierie di Siviglia (18 July-10 Aug), Madame Butterfly (29 July-8 Aug). Nabucco is a new Teatro dell’Opera production. The programme also includes a concert by Lang Lang (3 July) and the traditional ballet gala of Roberto Bolle and friends (25-26 July). Jose Carreras launches the Luglio Suona Bene festival at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

OPERA NOTES La traviata di Giuseppe Verdi che va in scena per 15 recite al Teatro dell’Opera di Roma (24 maggio – 30 giugno) si annuncia da non perdere per svariati motivi. Il primo è dato dalla regia che sarà di Sofia Coppola, la cineasta figlia del celebre Francis Ford (l’autore della storica saga cinematografica del Padrino) e vincitrice di un premio Oscar nel 2004 (migliore sceneggiatura originale per “Lost in Translation”) e del Leone d’oro al miglior film nel 2010 per “Somewhere”. È al suo debutto come regista di un’opera lirica. Non curerà un allestimento «moderno e ridicolo» ma «classico e splendido» per espresso desiderio di Valentino Garavani, il ben noto stilista delle dive del cinema che realizzerà i costumi di questa Traviata, da sempre affascinato dalla lirica e dal mondo da sogno che evoca. Le scene saranno del fantasioso Nathan Crowley, ugualmente legato al mondo della celluloide per aver ideato le fantasmagoriche scenografie della trilogia su Batman di Christopher Nolan. Infine per la parte musicale la direzione d’orchestra sarà di Jader Bignamini, un giovane maestro che all’Opera di Roma ha già diretto Aida nell’aprile 2015 e che fa parlare di sé come il miglior direttore verdiano del momento, mentre le voci che si alterneranno nel corso delle tante recite saranno di Francesca Dotto e Maria Grazia Schiavo (Violetta Valery), di Antonio Poli, Arturo Chacón-Cruz e Matteo Desole (Alfredo Germont) e di Roberto Frontali e Giovanni Meoni (Giorgio Germont). Paolo Di Nicola

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 8 June Open Studios offers the public a chance to see the studios of the current Rome Prize Fellows in the fields of architecture, landscape architecture, design, historic preservation and conservation, and visual arts, as well as attend a reading by the two Rome Prize Fellows in Literature: Will Boast and Lysley Tenorio, at 20.00. Studios open 18.00-21.00. 19 May-3 July The exhibition Studio Systems explores the status of the artist’s studio in contemporary art and how it has changed over the last 50 years, as artists reconfigure and diversify the sites of their activity. Curated by Peter Benson Miller, the exhibition features the work of Yuri Ancarani, Richard Barnes, Anna Betbeze, Suzanne Bocanegra, Petra Cortright, Marcel Duchamp, Philip Guston, Josephine Halvorson, Dawn Kasper and Bryony Roberts. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065852151, www. aarome.org.

in conjunction with the Irish embassy to Italy. June Mostra 17-25 June. The British School at Rome launches its Fine Arts June Mostra on Friday 17 June from 18.30-21.00. Exhibition of works by current Fine Arts award-holders at the BSR, including Rachel Adams, Damien Duffy, Joseph Griffiths, Deborah Prior, Margaret Roberts, David Ryan, Ross Taylor. Mon-Sat 16.30–19.00. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr. ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 8 June-11 Sept Organised in collaboration with the Italian embassy to Germany and the Italian Cultural Institute in Berlin, the exhibition Con Goethe in Italia marks the 200th anniversary since the publication of Italian Journey, Goethe’s report on his travels to Italy from 1786–1788. The exhibition features works inspired by Goethe’s writings by three artists: Michaela Maria Langenstein from Munich, and Elisa Montessori and Claudia Peill, both from Genoa. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

Dizionario by Elisa Montessori at Casa di Goethe.

BOOKS Irish Rome Roma Irlandese by Vittorio and Roswitha Di Martino

Petra Cortright participates in Studio Systems at the American Academy in Rome.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 3-4 June From Ulster to Rome: a retrospective on the career of Hugh O’Neill, Earl of Tyrone (1550–1616). The Great O’Neill died in the hospital of S. Spirito in Sassia in 1616 after eight years of exile in Rome, and is buried in S. Pietro in Montorio on the Janiculum hill. The BSR holds an international symposium on the life and times of the Irish leader on the 400th anniversary of his death. 10.00–18.00. On 4 June at 09.30 Prof. Mícheál MacCraith will conduct a walking tour of places associated with O’Neill’s sojourn in Rome, starting at S. Pietro in Montorio,

There is something in Irish Rome for every taste. This useful and well-illustrated volume offers a rich mosaic of Irish-Roman connections dating from the early 17th century up to the modern day. Exploring a great variety of links at once religious, political, social, and cultural, this book can be enjoyed as a single read, studied as an alternative guide to the city, or simply leafed through over time. Portraits of a wide variety of Irish presences will draw in all readers. Some, such as Elizabeth Kenny who aged just 20, married the 63-year-old Marchese Rondanini becoming la Marchesa Rondanini, have lurked for centuries in the shadows. Others are better known for having spent deeply formative times in the Eternal city, such as the Irish artists James Barry, Robert Fagan, and Richard Rothwell (famous for his portrait of Mary Shelley) and Hugh Douglas Hamilton, who lived in the city from 1779 to 1791 and was a close friend of Canova. When Hamilton returned to Dublin he pined for Rome and told Canova in a letter “… è quasi un esilio per chi ama l’arte da vero”. If Hamilton felt like an exile back in Ireland, countless Irish suffered as exiles in Rome, none more so than the defeated Earls of Tyrone and Tyrconnell who are interred in the hauntingly beautiful S. Pietro in Montorio. Rome is also home to the tomb of Donnchad, son of Brian Boru, the last high Kind of Ireland (S. Stefano Rotondo) and to the heart of Daniel O’Connell, who campaigned successfully for Catholic Emancipation (commemorated at the Irish College). More recent Roman exiles were Oscar Wilde and James Joyce (who disliked the city intensely). Wilde, an Anglican, visited Rome many times and greatly enjoyed following Catholic ritual there, even managing to attend a papal audience in 1900. The book also describes important Irish religious figures, who made a lasting contribution to the city and the Church, such as Luke Wadding who took over the church of S. Isidoro from Spanish friars and set up an important centre for the Irish Franciscans, and the Dominican Joseph Mullooly who led the excavations of S. Clemente in the mid-19th century. All this and far more is to be discovered in this potpourri of portraits, memorials and lasting connections. John McCourt (Roma: Arbor Sapientiae 2015, 194 pages, €38)

June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

FIBS AND FALLS, LOVE AND LOSS This is a small collection of work from the 9th grade Creative Writing class at St Stephen’s School in Rome. Among the pieces in this sampling is a prose poem, a syllabic work based on the Fibonacci sequence, and several ekphrastic pieces. The work reveals the students’ passionate commitment to writing, as well as a great deal of heart and soul, according to Moira Egan, the Creative Writing teacher at St Stephen’s. Valentina Verzelli Persepolis (after Persepolis, the Story of a Childhood by Marjane Satrapi) “Leave! Leave!” shouted grandma, as the police approached.  I lit up another Camel,  and in the swirling smoke, memories of home. Origins denied, loving a fool, committing new sins,  not going to school.  “Liberté” carved on rock,  during my stay in Paris,  while the bomb explodes on the block, back home in far Persepolis. Angelica La Rosa The Broken Soul Hope you’re well now, man on the street. He lay on the ground, His bare feet rested rigidly They were barely yet bluntly Blended to the chaos of the road Rubbing in sore pain Approaching the cold Parched, street pavement. But was he dead? His eyes were closed Yet the same images throbbed in his head Coming to torment him They repeated over and over Leaving him, cut in the soul Sobbing in the heart. His nails endorsed deep pain His lucent smiles,

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

His cheerful positivism and hope Had passed away Abhorred by endless days of rain. She lay in the car Hands on her knees Unmoved and still But was she ill? Her head was detached And the man’s thoughts And hers, overlapped Was it an accident or an attack? But he was on the ground Everyone looked at him Yet he made no sound His position was stoic Yet the quivering of his hands Was out of terror, not cold There was nothing to hide, it was all too bold The tremor of his emotions Let out all his notions His ideas met no conclusion There was contempt in his smiling It wasn’t just an illusion. But he wouldn’t move, He would not raise his arms for aid He’d stay on the street Perishing, afraid. Eveline Mol The Golden Hour “I wish you a lifetime of moments too beautiful to capture on film” Taylor Swift

Pink, yellow, orange. The trees kiss the sky. The crimson geraniums complement the forest-green tops of the pines. Silhouettes, golden light, metal birds. The sparrows sing their nightly song, which seems to call out to their partner: “Darling, I haven’t met you yet, but the day when I will shall be the happiest day of my life. Tonight I must spend another night without your warmth, another night without your presence, another night without you. The thought alone should haunt me, but I find comfort in the fact that tomorrow is a new day, a new opportunity to find you, for every day I have ever lived, will mean nothing until I meet you.” Their song is soothing, but so gentle that recordings can’t reproduce it. The sky is so magical, yet so overwhelming that even a professional photographer can’t capture it. The moment is free, I can’t imprison it in a screen. These are the moments I live for, the ones that can’t be saved by the camera, nor comprehended by the mind. They can only stay in the heart. Tommaso Rabitti A Midsummer Night Curling, little gentle tubes Of water, splashing calmly on the sand Erasing a kid’s stick-drawn man Glistening in the moonlight are The cars, covered in dust and windblown sand

Releasing one long day’s heat on the dry land Dreaming of long lost home, I am Staring into darkness and bewildering space Being mocked by life in a midsummer night Cristina Rizzo Icarus Oh father, I know I should’ve listened to you, But it’s too late. And I’m frightened. Now, As I struggle to breathe As a fish brawls to dive back in the water, Tell me father: As my throbs succumb to the depths of the ocean, Will the wind still thrust against the ships’ veils? Will it still fold the sea? Will the cattle keep rummaging to empty hills And the shepherd still slant on his coarse cane? Will the water keep biting the stone cliffs? And father, Will your wax lead you on?

Like scarlet roses, Pallid jasmines, And periwinkle violets. Tell me that this is all right I feel like I’m suspended in the air I’m flying through the clouds Which are illuminated by the warm coral colors of the sunset, And the filthy air surrounds me like an hug. Why is love so complicated? Tell me, please I don’t know whether this is reality or not, Because now I’m drowning in love. Nicolò Anserini Fibbing Of sin I am going to speak, that dreadful thing that subtly hisses in your ear; Its woeful voice subdues the hearts of the bravest men, It ensnares and blunts all senses, Bewitching the mind, deceiving it with faulty glee.

But mostly, Will I vanish As unseen, As disregarded As a pebble, kicked into the towering grass? Chiara Codazzi Drowning in Love Why didn’t you tell me what love could do I’m drowning now, drowning in love. I can’t hear anyone, just an immense silence I am surrounded by tranquility in this vivid world Please tell me that this is normal, I only hear birds singing I only smell the perfume of flowers,

Filippo Calcagni The Quality of Life Death is the thing that scares us the most but what are we mortally afraid of? We could treat it with a bit of humanity why not with a bit of dignity our just with a touch of humor. Death may not be the enemy because it is not the real fiend although indifference should be what we constantly have to fight, our mission as human beings is not to prevent death but to improve the quality of life of who we love. The only way, to defeat death is to cure not the disease but the person, and the outcome will be life. Inspired by the movie Patch Adams

St Stephen’s School. Photo Liana Miuccio.

Auditorium at St Stephen’s School. Photo Mario Ventura.

Wanted in Rome is accepting contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 900 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com. June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town CASSIA - PANORAMIC APARTMENT NEXT TO AMERICAN OVERSEAS SCHOOL. 125 sqm, 5th floor, 360 degree panoramic view over Insugherata Natural Park, just modernised, completely furnished, living room, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, eat-in furnished kitchen, carport, 2 terraces. Facilities: Custodian, parking, park, soccer field. Direct access available to Insugherata Park. Contact studio.salera@gmail. com. INDEPENDENT VILLA FOR RENT ON CASSIA. Within easy reach of the American Overseas & Marymount International School, this villa features a private garden and spectacular view on the Insugherata Park. Just off Cassia, it is near S. Pietro Hospital and Corso Francia / Ponte Milvio. 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 balconies, a sun terrace, we rent partially furnished for 3 years. Ideal for families and a paradise for your dog. Please contact Federico Angeloni by WhatsApp, tel. +39 3337817703. MANZONI AREA. Furnished, independent, with cooking facilities, studio flat for single person, €500 monthly for minimum of 6 months or more. Email: dellascala4@gmail.com. MONTEVERDEVECCHIO. Monteverdevecchio Ottavilla bright furnished apartment 3rd floor with lift, 3

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living room, kitchen, washing machine, dishwasher, AC, WIFI available, from 1 July, €1.500 monthly, a.pietro@libero.it, tel. 0039 349 / 4962562. PENTHOUSE TRASTEVERE. Very elegant building with lift. Bright, comfortable apartment with stunning view. Tastefully furnished and redecorated in excellent condition. Exposed beams, air con, good storage, large living area, double bedroom, bathroom and kitchenette. Available. We speak English. No Agency commission. monica. grande07@gmail. com.

contact maremiele@outlook.com. TRASTEVERE NEAR ISOLA TIBERINA. Trastevere near Isola Tiberina, sunny and quiet apartment, large living/dining room, bedroom, many closets, bathroom, guest toilet, small kitchen, high wooden ceiling, independent heating, AC, elevator, parking for bicycles outside. maremiele@ outlook.com.

S. LORENZO MINI-STUDIO APARTMENT. S. Lorenzo - ministudio apartment, single room, bathroom and kitchenette, great central location near market, shops, supermarkets, bus stop, bus goes to Nazionale, Trevi and Spagna area, long-term rental, €650‚ per month plus costs,

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June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Accommodation vacant out of town APARTMENT IN TORRE IN PIETRA. Refurbished apartment in the Castle of Torre in Pietra. 95 sqm. Living room, 2 bedrooms, bathroom, livable kitchen, small terrace, access to garden nearby. €900 negotiable. Via Aurelia km 25. rpentaanzani@hotmail.it or 3382582718, 3391989004. CAPRANICA AREA (VITERBO). TO RENT. 80 sqm flat, first floor in the main square of Capranica village (XIII cent.), very bright and quiet, nice view. Two bedrooms, living room, fully furnished kitchen with working fireplace, 1 bathroom, 3 balconies. €400‚ per month. It could be furnished or not. For further information: tel. 3496451790 / info_rent@yahoo.it. CASAL DO’ BASO SUMMER LETS. 3 bedroom holiday apartment in Campagnano di Roma, large garden and private pool, visit our website: www. casaldobaso.com. TIVOLI - MANDELA. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €300 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €500 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@ email.it.

Jobs vacant

ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT / SECRETARY. Prestigious International law firm is looking for an Accounting Assistant / Secretary for its Rome Office. In order to apply the candidate must have: International law firm environment experience - Diploma in accounting or equivalent - Two years experience as an assistant accountant - Familiarity with the general secretarial activities. He/she will be

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

working mainly with accounts payable, accounts receivable, bank reconciliation and budgeting. Excellent knowledge of Excel, Word and PowerPoint is required. Fluent written and spoken English language is a must. Autonomy, precision, flexibility and confidentiality are required. During the interview accounting, general computer skills, and English levels will be tested. Applicants should send a CV authorising personal data treatment pursuant to Legislative Decree no. 196/03. Only CVs written in English will be considered. Contact wantedinrome.aassistant@gmail.com.

Grid is seeking highly motivated, university educated Business English trainers. We offer long term national contracts, holiday pay, bonus and benefits, as well as career progression and training. Apply via email: info@ thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter.

ADMINISTRATION ASSOCIATE. Principal Relocation Company seeks motivated, focused and goal oriented individual to work as an Administration Associate. Must have excellent Excel skills and demonstrable experience in office administration, cost & margin management, and familiarity with vendors. Fluency in English and Italian is essential. Please send CV/photo to: careers (at) principalrelocation.com with ref: AA-RM.

EXPERIENCED EMT NURSERY SCHOOL TEACHERS. Our NEW third branch is REGGIO APPROACH in style and philosophy. Are you motivated and driven? Do you believe in team work? We are looking to train commited, adaptive, EMT nursery school teachers who are enthusiastic about learning how to implement the Reggio method. We are a small professional team, strong believers in the compe-

BILINGUAL SCHOOL IS SEEKING ENGLISH AND ITALIAN TEACHERS. Ostia International School is looking for part-time and full-time teachers for the new academic school year. All teachers need to be mother tongue and have a B. Ed, PGCE or equivalent teaching degree. Contact info@ostiainternationalschool.it. ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language

ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHING POSITION. English Mother Tongue teaching position requested for bilingual school for ages 3-5 in Bracciano near Rome. Contact arcobalenasilo@gmail.com.

tence of children and ready to embark on a new school year full of discovery. didactic.reggio@gmail.com. EXPERIENCED, FUN NATIVE ENGLISH TEACHER WANTED. For private afternoon lessons, 1.30h twice a week in central Rome. The student is a male teenager with a rudimentary knowledge of the language. Please call +39 0697610631 to set up an interview. FULL-TIME SECRETARY / RECEPTIONIST. Needed for language school in Rome’s centre. Candidates must be able to communicate well in both English and Italian, possess good interpersonal skills, and exhibit team spirit. Office experience preferred. Valid working papers req’d. Send cover letter and CV to job@angloamerican. it with RECEPTIONIST in Subject line. GMAT INSTRUCTOR WANTED. MasterPrep International is looking for an English speaking professional (mother tongue or high working proficiency level) for teaching the quantitative part of standard university entrance exams like GMAT and GRE. Availability on Saturdays is requested. Please send your CVs to info@masterprep.it. LOOKING FOR OUTGOING PEOPLE. Looking for outgoing people to work in Spanish and English to give info to tourists. Part time job. Mornings. paulsam66@libero.it. MOTHER-TONGUE TEACHERS. Urgently require qualified TEFL / CELTA mother-tongue teachers for company and in-school courses, interesting rates. Send CVs to frascati@ international-school.it for interview appointment. MOTHERTONGUE QUALIFIED ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIRED. Mothertongue qualified English teachers required for company courses in Anagnina area and Rome centre. Please send CV to info@trainingclub. com.

NANNY IN ROME. Looking for an experienced English mother tongue nanny to look after 2 kids (3yo and 1yo). Monday to Friday 13.00-18.00 (live out). Location Eur. Good references and driving licence. Only mother tongue speaker considered. Please send CV+photo to: mothertonguenanny@gmail.com. NURSERY/ ENGLISH TEACHER. We are looking for a full time Nursery and English teacher. Contact thetreehouserome@gmail.com. OFFICE ASSISTANT ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE. We are looking for energetic English Mother Tongue office assistant for Part Time/Full Time Seasonal Work at our tour operations office. Candidate will need to be proficient with MS Office, understanding of Tourism, and good verbal skills in dealing with customer service. Please send CV or résumé to rome.marilena@ gmail.com. POSITION VACANT FOR KINDERGARDEN (5 YEAR OLDS) TEACHER. Beginning September 2016. Requirements: English mother tongue; minimum 2 years experience; teaching all subjects in a self-contained classroom; written references; EU passport and work permit; intention of remaining in Rome at least two years (trial period included). Please do not apply unless all the above conditions are met. Contact info@kendale.it. QUALIFIED AND EXPERIENCED MATHS TEACHER REQUIRED. The ideal candidate has minimum 5 years experience teaching Secondary 1 and/or Secondary 2 Maths in an international school, a student-focused approach to teaching and learning and a basic understanding of Italian. Please send C.V. to office@castelliinternational.it. RELOCATION ASSOCIATE. Principal Relocation Company seeks motivated, focused and goal oriented individual

to work as a Relocation Associate. Experience in the relocation and/or immigration field an advantage, but not essential as full training will be given. Fluency in English and Italian is essential. Please send résumé/photo to careers@principalrelocation.com with ref: RA-RM. Only residents of Rome need apply. This is a junior entry-level position. RUNNING GUIDES. Sightjogging seeks expert runners, living in Rome, fluent in English/German &/or French. Send CV to: info@sightjogging.it, https://www.sightjogging.it.

lessons HELP TO PREPARE FOR A LEVEL AQA BUSINESS STUDIES EXAM. I’m 22, taking A level AS and A2 Business Studies exam in summer. Studied on Open College programme but need help in final months to prepare for exams.Please contact me via email on cell 347 / 1125113. PRIVATE TUITION IN ENGLISH LANGUAGE, LITERATURE AND MATHS. Highly experienced British private tutor, over five years experience tutoring pupils across London and Europe in English Literature, History, Philosophy, Religious Studies and Entrance Examinations. Many years experience teaching English Language in Italy/Rome. Each session tailored around pupil’s needs. Contact danielle_hurren@hotmail.co.uk.

Poetry EMERGENCY ROOM. Once upon a time there was a doctor with his bag and baggage. He went door to door to look after our health, we were proud of him and the cold disappeared. Today there are millions of doctors with their bag and baggage. They go door June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

to door to look after our health we are proud of them but if now the cold doesn’t disappear please take care of Ebola disease. sernicolimarco@gmail. com. KISS. I met you in a restaurant over a glass of beer and another one. I didn’ t imagine you could become so important. Union between two persons like a hundred musical notes which link to form a beautiful song. God bless you, Laura. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. MARCO E LAURA. Our story is full of love like the one of a mother for her son, the difference is that not only grew but last a life. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. ORANGE. There is nothing to miss about you, there is nothing to come before or after you. I will cover you with flowers and kisses, I will cover you with azure and blue of citrus and sun.

There is nothing which passes before you, there is nothing which runs faster than you. I will cover you with gifts and smiles, I will cover you with walks around Rome, I will cover you with poetry from Wanted in Rome. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. PARIS, JANUARY 2015. We will say that you are bad killers, we will combat you with our big sense of freedom. We won’ t permit you to take possession of our hope, we won’t be surprised if somebody could assert that the massacre at charlie hebdo is just a little weirdo. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. RUSSIA AGAINST UKRAINE. It is anything but gas, probably is.......SPUTIN. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. TO LAURA, A FRIEND OF MINE. Falling in love is like simmer, unfortunately my flame was too high, but I don’t burned Laura, because. Once she

made me taste her... biological apples! sernicolimarco@gmail.com. WITHOUT TITLE. What can I do to catch a happy whiff? I will go to St Peter’s to visit at the distance the Sovereign Pontiff and pray for me till sweep away the insolence to feel sick instead to release the brain listen like yesterday the songs of Dionne Warwick. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. Short lets ROOM TO LET. English/Italian lady rents sunny 4th floor room, private bathroom, wi-fi/tv, weekly cleaning, linen, kitchen use, moto-carport, good bus service, near supermarket, bank, post office 5 mins walk Ponte Milvio, good bus service, 20 mins Vatican/citycentre, suitable student/professional profile, references required. Contact terrypeppiatt@alice.it.

June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 June 2016 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | June 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it