Wanted in Rome - July 2016 by Wanted in Rome

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july 2016

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The english language magazine in Rome

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Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 7

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no. 7 / july 2016 editorials

SIR ANTONIO PAPPANO TALKS ABOUT S. CECILIA Mary Wilsey . . . . 2 LOCAL ELECTIONS SHAKE ITALIAN POLITICS Laura Clarke. . . . . . 6 ROME’S TESTACCIO MOVES UPMARKET Mike Dilien. . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 FESTIVALS OUT OF TOWN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Opera notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 cinema. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 KEATS SHELLEY POETRY COMPETITION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 3 August and 7 September. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 24 July (for 3 August) and 28 August (for 7 September). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine. Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 04/07/2016 Sir Antonio Pappano. Photo Muscacchio and Ianniello. See interview page 2.

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Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

35 July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

music

Mary Wilsey

SIR ANTONIO PAPPANO TALKS ABOUT S. CECILIA T

hink of taking a symphony orchestra out of its concert hall and moving it to a 6,000 seater open-air sport’s stadium. It sounds like the stuff of pop groups. But in a wideranging interview Sir Antonio Pappano, the music director and chief conductor of the city’s S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus talks to Wanted in Rome about performing outdoors, about the development of the orchestra, about its relationship with Rome and about the highlights of the 2016-2017 season. Wanted in Rome In some of the publicity for the concert at the Foro Italico on 5 July you linked music and sport. Could you expand on this. Pappano The coming together of a mass of people to watch a spectacle of any kind is a healthy thing, as long as the spectacle itself is worthy and is something that benefits mankind, if I may go so far. The idea of a community and a big crowd and the energy it produces from an audience point of view is really remarkable. Sport does this to a greater extent than classical music, there’s no question

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

All photos by Muscacchio and Ianniello.

Sir Tony Pappano has been the music director of the S. Cecilia orchestra for over a decade.

about that. But the point of the concert was to share this great music that communicates something deep and joyous and full of hope. And why not aspire to the biggest audience you can?

Wanted in Rome The Foro Italico concert wasn’t in this season’s original programming. Was it born spontaneously, almost a last-minute decision to stage this event?

Wanted in Rome Pop stars and groups have played in front of the Colosseum so I wonder if you requested this or was your first choice the Foro Italico?

Wanted in Rome You mention the energy a large audience produces. How do you think this will change the way you and the orchestra perform? It must be different being in an outdoor space from being in a concert hall.

Pappano The decision for this concert was born of a desire to do something for the city, for Rome. It was something that Michele Dall’Ongaro (head of the S. Cecilia board since 2015) and I thought would be a change of routine, that it would produce a new atmosphere and would create a completely new audience. We wanted to do something for the city, for an audience that would more readily come to a sports arena than a concert hall.

Pappano We would be talking about tremendous sums of money to stage such a concert in front of the Colosseum. It is just not very realistic for us at the moment.

Wanted in Rome You expected the audience to be quite different then?

Pappano Beethoven has been very much a part of this season at S. Cecilia and will also be next season. We open in October with Beethoven’s Fidelio. So it is a sort of continuity for the orchestra. The 9th symphony is a very popular piece but it is also demanding. The first, second and third movements – before we get to the part everyone knows – are very

Pappano There are challenges about doing a concert outdoors but it is important for any musical institution to take risks and go out of its normal performing space. I am very sensitive to the atmosphere created by audiences, whether in an opera house or a concert hall. This is especially so when we go on tour and and meet so many new people and perform in new halls. If you have a sensitivity to what the audience is bringing to the event it can be very exciting, the energy creates almost a fever, and is quite different from that in your usual concert space.

Oh yes. That’s our great hope. I would like it to become an annual event and it is my dream eventually to go out into the centre of the city, to perform in Piazza del Popolo or in front of the Colosseum.

Wanted in Rome Could you explain your motives for choosing to perform Beethoven’s 9th symphony, the Hymn to Joy, which is also the anthem of the European Union.

July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

music serious. Also the symphony involves the S. Cecilia chorus as well as the orchestra so it embraces the whole institution which is important, as well as the soloists. There are not many pieces that do this. This seemed to be one that makes sense at this point in the season. Wanted in Rome You mention tours. You have a very full travel programme for the orchestra next year as well as a full programme in Rome. Could you talk about the changes in S. Cecilia under your guidance, both within the international context and within the city. Pappano We must look on tours within the whole strategy for S. Cecilia, which also includes recordings. We have a multi-pronged approach, the most important of which is developing a closer relationship with the audience in Rome. What I think has happened in the last ten years is that the audience really does feel it is their orchestra. It isn’t a question of “us” and “them” but

a question of “we”. I really believe this. The warmth of the audience in following our programme and development is palpable. The tours have helped the orchestra deepen their relationship with certain pieces, which they get to repeat rather than only playing them in Rome, so we are building a very strong repertoire. Also performing internationally in the halls where great orchestras play puts us in a different league, it raises our game and has given the orchestra a new confidence. We are not afraid now to play Bruckner in Dresden – we’ve done that, Mahler in Vienna – we’ve done that, Strauss’s Alpine Symphony in Japan – we’ve done that too. We are taking risks but it is really paying off and the orchestra is taking that seriously. The recordings – and we have done several now – have also helped the orchestra develop. Recording needs a new set of skills, a different technique again, how to turn on the super energy and how to communicate with the microphone, how to seduce the mi-

S. Cecilia orchestra inaugurates the new season.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

crophone. The microphone is quick to pick up indifference so you need to fascinate the microphone the whole time. Wanted in Rome In other words recording is quite the opposite to an outdoor event. Pappano Yes, in the outdoor event you are bringing many people together; in a recording you are in a hermetically sealed studio and you have to gain experience of how to seduce the microphone. I have that and the orchestra also now knows how to do this. Wanted in Rome Could you explain the importance of your policy of mixing classical with contemporary music in your concerts. Pappano We are bound as an institution to push the art form forward and provoke responses to that need. As with everything else there is good contemporary music and bad contemporary music. I am looking for music that communi-

music cates to the audience directly. Much of contemporary music takes the audience as the last point of interest whereas it should be the first. I am concentrating mainly on Italian composers but not only. Playing contemporary works is also fantastic training for the orchestra, to keep them informed and to give them the skills to make music out of contemporary works where the language can be a bit obtuse at first. I always try to find a story and if the orchestra understands that story and we are in it together then we can really communicate music with emotion. The composers really appreciate that. Wanted in Rome I notice that all the way through this conversation you talk about the orchestra. You are also a soloist but you seem to have real emotional attachment to the orchestra. Pappano I perform rarely as a soloist, usually as accompanist or in a chamber orchestra, but as a conductor and especially as a music director there is a sort of paternal relationship with the orchestra and the institution. It’s my job to stimulate, to push and to challenge the orchestra, this is how they grow and it gives them the courage to do what they are doing. The orchestra is now exposed like few orchestras in the world but they can handle that, partly because between the straight classics, between the two extremes of Bach, which we also play, and contemporary music they are now what I would call a modern orchestra and their horizons have been widened. Wanted in Rome Could you try to explain the difference between your work in London and Rome. Pappano They are two different institutions. In Rome there’s the symphony orchestra and in London the opera. Some people

S. Cecilia concert hall at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

find it strange that it should be this way round but that’s the way it is and they complement each other beautifully. This also fits with my identity as a British-born, Italo-American. What I try to do is to bring the English professionalism, discipline, flexibility and work ethic to Italy, and bring the colour, the temperament and the passion from Italy to England. But that is part of me and my personality. It is difficult to explain exactly what it is like. Wanted in Rome Is there anything you are particularly looking forward to in the next S. Cecilia season? Pappano I am very much looking forward to

Fidelio, which opens the season, also Schubert’s 9th symphony which we are playing for the first time but there is so, so much more. Bach’s St John’s Passion is perhaps what I am looking forward to most. Yes, I am really looking forward to that.

S. Cecilia highlights 20, 22, 24 Oct. Beethoven’s Fidelio conducted by Pappano opens the new season. 27, 28, 29 Oct. Schubert’s 9th symphony. 13, 14, 15 April. Bach’s St John’s Passion.

July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

POLITICS

Laura Clarke

LOCAL ELECTIONS SHAKE ITALIAN POLITICS

The success of the grassroots protest movement in June municipal polls is bad news for Renzi in view of a key constitutional referendum later this year

f one of the aims of prime minister Matteo Renzi since taking power in February 2014 has been to rein in the anti-establishment Movimento 5 Stelle (M5S) after its unexpected success in general elections the previous year, then the outcome of the June local polls shows that he has failed. The victory in Rome of Virginia Raggi over Roberto Giachetti of the prime ministerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Partito Democratico (PD) and in Turin of Chiara Appendino over incumbent mayor and PD veteran Piero Fassino are demonstration that the populist catch-all party founded by comedian Beppe Grillo remains a strong alternative to the traditional centre left and centre right. In the 2013 general elections M5S took the second largest number of votes in both houses of parliament after the PD, then led by Pier Luigi Bersani. Now, with all due distinction between national and local polls and despite poor performances in some cities, the tables are turned, with the M5S taking more votes than the PD.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

New Rome mayor Virginia Raggi swept to victory in the election run-off on 19 June.

POLITICS In Rome M5S more than tripled its support to become by far the largest party in the capital, polling 412,285 votes or 35.3 per cent in the first round compared to 130,635 or 12.8 per cent in 2013. Conversely, the PD saw its consensus fall from 267,605 votes or 26.3 per cent in 2013 to 200,790 or 17.2 per cent this time round. In this scenario, M5S could feasibly emerge victorious from the ballot box in the next general elections held under the terms of the controversial new Italicum electoral law pushed through parliament by Renzi’s government in 2015. The Italicum introduces a tworound system of voting for the chamber of deputies and a large bonus of seats for the winning party (not coalition). This would take Italy into uncharted waters, which is exactly where the M5S is trying to go. Headed by Grillo and crewed by a five-member directorate of MPs, including 29-year-old aspiring prime minister Luigi Di Maio (the son of a bigwig of the now defunct post-fascist parties Movimento Sociale Italiano and Alleanza Nazionale), the party was founded as a grassroots protest movement in 2009. It aspires to overturn the established political order, and its recent success in Rome can be seen as an important stepping stone. It has been helped in its mission by slow economic recovery, growing disenchantment with traditional parties as a result of high-profile scandals including Mafia Capitale in Rome, chaos on the centre right, and the use of internet as the main instrument for consulting its base. In other words, M5S has styled itself as the new ”clean” alternative to conventional parties including the PD of Renzi, who ironically himself set out to scrap (rottamare) the old guard on the centre left. However, this perceived strength is also its biggest weakness: it reflects a lack of administrative experience, essential at local level. Its

mayors in Parma and Livorno have been placed under investigation on suspicion respectively of abuse of office and fraudulent bankruptcy conspiracy. Quarto near Naples descended into chaos early this year when M5S mayor Rosa Capuozzo tendered and then withdrew her resignation Roberto Giachetti’s defeat by Viriginia Raggi was a significant setafter being expelled back for PD leader and Italian premier Matteo Renzi. from the party following allegations that the mafia had when she said that what Romans really want is a mayor who restores the city infiltrated her executive. The Eternal City now finds itself in un- to “normality”. After months (years?) charted waters with Raggi, a 37-year-old of living in what to many has felt like civil lawyer and mother of one, at the a permanent state of emergency, they helm. Rome’s first ever woman mayor want to know that when they set out takes over from former prefect Frances- for work in the morning they will arrive co Paolo Tronca, who was appointed by on time, that they will not have to pick the government to run the city follow- their way through piles of rubbish or ing the ouster of PD mayor Ignazio Ma- around micro-building sites to reach rino by his own party last October. Raggi their front door, that migrants arriving will be under intense scrutiny from all in or transiting through Rome are not sides as she embarks on her stated aim left to sleep in makeshift tent camps of cleaning up the city administration. without essential services for days on However, she can count on a strong end, or that the city’s anti-violence cenmajority in the city council and prob- tres for women are not threatened with ably also on support from centre-right closure due to lack of funds. Raggi made focusing on the ordiand right-wing parties whose anti-Renzi votes helped ensure her success in the nary administration of the city – at the expense of big projects such as its bid second round. Raggi said during her campaign that for the 2024 Olympics – a key element her relationship with Renzi would be of her campaign. However, whether “frank” and there is every reason to she can deliver on these expectations expect the feeling to be reciprocated. remains to be seen. In the run-up to the This could have important implications elections she spent a lot of time attackfor the administration of a city that de- ing her opponents but less setting out pends to a great extent on the govern- her policies and programme. Meanwhile, Renzi has two major ment for its economic survival and for the planned renegotiation of its over challenges on his hands: rebuilding the PD after its disappointing local elec€12 billion total debt. In an interview with Corriere della tion performance (in Naples the party’s Sera newspaper shortly after the first- Valeria Valente failed even to make it to round vote, Roman film director Cristi- the run-off ballot), and securing victory na Comencini spoke for many residents for the Yes vote in the referendum on July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

POLITICS

M5S candidate Chiara Appendino beat PD veteran Piero Fassino to become mayor of Turin.

a controversial constitutional reform in October. Renzi has made overhauling Italy’s post-war political apparatus a cornerstone of his government agenda. In April he won definitive approval from lawmakers for the transformation of the senate into a smaller chamber of indirectly elected regional and local representatives with limited legislative powers, with effect from the next parliament. Now, in a questionable departure from the spirit of the Italian constitution, he has transformed the referendum provided for under article 138 (see box) into a plebiscite on the reform, and is hoping to come out on top. The prime minister has staked his political future on winning the referendum (for which, unlike abrogative referendums on existing laws, no quorum is required) and in so doing he has personalised it at the expense of serious debate on the merits or demerits of the provisions. The outcome of the June elections will be a boost to the No campaign, which can already count on support from many top academics and constitutionalists as well as a left-wing minority within the PD, and the debate is set to become more inflamed over the summer months.

Much of the opposition centres on the relationship between the constitutional reform and the Italicum electoral law, which Renzi has said he does not intend to change but which detractors claim would tip the balance of power away from parliament in favour of the executive and a powerful prime minister, as well as leaving smaller parties without representation. If Renzi wins the referendum he can expect to remain safely at the helm of government until the natural end of the current parliament in 2018. If he loses and is as good as his word, he will resign, in which case either a new government will be formed or – if this proves impossible – the country will be faced with new elections shortly thereafter. In this event, Italians would vote under two distinct electoral systems – the Italicum for the chamber of deputies and a system of more or less proportional representation for the senate, mandated by the constitutional court in early 2014 after it declared elements of the previous Porcellum (pigsty) electoral law to be unconstitutional. Unless, that is, parliament can agree on another new electoral law in the meantime.

ART. 138 Laws amending the constitution and other constitutional laws shall be adopted by each house of parliament after two successive debates at intervals of not less than three months, and shall be approved by an absolute majority of the members of each house in the second voting. Said laws are submitted to a popular referendum when, within three months of their publication, such request is made by one-fifth of the members of a house or 500,000 voters or five regional councils. The law submitted to referendum shall not be promulgated if not approved by a majority of valid votes. A referendum shall not be held if the law has been approved in the second voting by each of the houses by a majority of two-thirds of the members.

July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

GENTRIFICATION

Mike Dilien

ROME’S TESTACCIO MOVES UPMARKET

An insider’s view on the disappearance of a once important industrial neighbourhood

iazza Testaccio is an elegant square with clean benches, pruned trees and a white fountain. On this chilly Saturday evening, a teenage girl is texting from one of the seats while two children – probably brother and sister – are pedalling around the fountain. Suddenly a young woman and a small dog arrive, both tucked into warm coats.

“Scusi, Lei è di Wanted in Rome?” The woman is Roman-born sociologist Irene Ranaldi; Betty is her dog. Ranaldi has published two books on her childhood neighbourhood, Testaccio, and guides tours on Rome’s popular areas. Recently, she launched a petition to allow visits to Monte dei Cocci, a 35mhigh hill composed of fragments of amphorae dating from the Roman empire.

Ranaldi proposes we visit a bar around the corner: “It’s a franchise that has several outlets, even in Parioli.” Ranaldi is one of very few Italian researchers on gentrification, a term academics use to describe the process of affluent people pushing out a neighbourhood’s original residents. She mentions that consuming something in the bar would make us complicit

Once the site of a bustling fruit and veg market Piazza Testaccio is now an elegant, wide-open space. Photo Leon Perez.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

GENTRIFICATION in the area’s transformation. Inside, elevator music is playing loudly. We take a small table at the back. As a qualitative sociologist, Ranaldi analyses the present through interviews and field research, and recomposes the past through newspaper articles, council minutes and travel guides. Yet, why study the evolution of a working-class neighbourhood in Rome? The capital must be Italy’s least industrialised city. Wouldn’t Turin or Milan make a better choice? Testaccio was Rome’s first industrial neighbourhood. Its development was thoroughly planned and, lying in a bend of the Tiber, it is a clearly defined area. Moreover, contrary to other popular areas such as Monti, Testaccio has been built from scratch. “There was nothing here,” Ranaldi says. “The residents even had to develop their own working-class mentality!” Researcher, publisher, tour guide, photographer, but above all Ranaldi is a fierce advocate of the preservation of her Testaccio heritage. From a review I had written when her second book, Gentrification in parallelo, came out, I remember that, contrary to New York, gentrification in Rome is not planned. I had concluded that whereas Testaccio’s industrialisation was planned, its gentrification happened spontaneously. Ranaldi calls Testaccio’s a gentrification all’italiana. “From atop Monte dei Cocci one sees how much of the former slaughterhouse has remained untouched.” She tells me to look up the term “project financing”: each time the community sells public property, part of the deal is that the buyer has to provide something useful to the community, for example a kindergarten. Only, in Italy the buyer never does. In Testaccio for instance, the buyers of the plot of land in front of the slaughterhouse were to build a low-cost residence for students. “Have you seen the residence they’ve built?” Ranaldi asks. “A three-star hotel.”

Researcher Irene Ranaldi is an expert of the gentrification of Testaccio.

I had seen the “Re Testa” hotel that morning, when I was exploring the slaughterhouse, the centrepiece of Ranaldi’s first book, Testaccio, da quartiere operaio a Village della capitale. During my exploration I kept wondering why slaughterhouses – Rome’s Mattatoio, New York’s MePa, Paris’ La Villette – are invariably converted into museums. Is industrial architecture not yet old enough to be fully appreciated? She agrees. “Take the statue on top of the Mattatoio’s entrance. Did you see it? It’s a beautiful statue. But it is literally crumbling. And then the shiny, plastic-like logo of the MACRO museum beneath it.” She sighs. “They should respect the place’s original vocation. They should have made the complex produc-

tive once again, useful to the local population.” The bar’s customers are mostly couples of well-dressed 30-somethings and a group of what looks like female young urban professionals. A trendy Smart and an elegant Mercedes are visible through the window. Testaccio’s industries – slaughterhouse, gasometer, stonecutter workshops – were abandoned in the mid1970s. Apparently, Italian actors started Testaccio’s gentrification – movies like Once Upon a Time in America, and television series like Romanzo criminale were shot here. When asked which other neighbourhoods are candidates for gentrification, Ranaldi immediately answers: “Torpigna,

The Mattatoio, or slaughter house, is now a part of the city’s museum of contemporary art, MACRO. July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

GENTRIFICATION definitely.” Tor Pignattara, really? Will the Bengalese community soon have to make way for well-heeled gentrifiers? She notices my puzzlement and explains: “Gentrification follows the extension of the underground. So in Rome that’s Linea C.” A couple of years ago, Ranaldi exhibited photographs of her neighbourhood and its residents: charming pictures that celebrated Testaccio’s working-class image. Every area, to put it in marketing terminology, has its unique selling proposition. While Testaccio has its working-class image, Pigneto has its Pasolini postcards and S. Lorenzo its student scene. When asked whether these neighbourhoods compete with each other for affluent gentrifiers, Ranaldi hesitates. She doesn’t think so because Romans tend to stick to their childhood neighbourhood. “Going out in Pigneto and fancying its dark side is one thing, moving there and buying a place is quite another.” Her next project is on gender gentrification, aka gaytrification. I suggest gentrification is merely a phase every dynamic neighbourhood goes through and ask if there are neighbourhoods which, after a burgeoning phase of gentrification, fell back into decay. It turns out Testaccio is already in the so-called phase of supergentrification. First, the cosy bohemian shops replace the traditional stores, and then the plastic franchise stores replace the bohemians. “Originally, the busy fruit and vegetable market was on the square where we met.” What? That empty, sterile Piazza Testaccio? She smiles. Apparently, all is interlinked: the shops depend on the market and the market, in its turn, depends on the residents. Traditional shops disappear because the original residents disappear. Pointing at our drinks, she remarks: “Do you think native testaccini pay €10 for tea and orange juice?” In 2000, Ranaldi won a state competition with an essay on Rome’s elderly. The essay is a compelling testimony of a man whose childhood neighbourhood

around the Roman Forum was destroyed by the fascists. He then witnessed how tourists transformed his adoptive neighbourhood, Testaccio. Like her protagonist, Ranaldi feels she is a privileged witness. Tourists visit the neighbourhood for its cuisine. Many of the restaurant menus are in English and many visitors to Testaccio Food Market (the covered premises which opened near MACRO almost four years ago) are foreign. Several organisations do food tours in Testaccio, hailing it as the birthplace of the Roman cuisine whose origins owe much to the offal from the former slaughterhouse. Ranaldi says that original residents do not visit the new market because of the trendy produce it offers as well as its tourist prices. Rome’s popular neighbourhoods could extend the city’s existing tourism offering. Ranaldi says: “While the historic centre has become a simulacrum artefact for easily satisfied tourists, the most ‘popular’ neighbourhoods, those that are really ’Roman’ nowadays are in the suburbs.” She has great faith in Rome’s suburbs, especially their street art. “There is talent in the suburbs.” On her guided tours, she takes people to the suburbs such as Trullo, south of the capital, to show them recent graffiti murals. As an independent researcher – she finances her field research herself – Ranaldi intends to vulgarise her knowledge, ex-

plaining gentrification through its consequences to society, such as soaring rents, and its impact on everyday life, such as the disappearance of the local fruit and vegetable markets. Last July she created Ottavo Colle, the Eighth Hill, an association offering guided tours that are active, constructive and narrative. Each tour includes movie excerpts of disappearing Rome and/or live performances by musicians and/or actors. Mostly Italians, “truly interesting people like architects and artists,” participate in these tours. Each tour changes its focus depending on the type of participants and the questions they raise. “It’s a motivated audience,” she says, explaining: “participants are willing to go to places as remote as S. Basilio [the north-east Rome suburb] or venture into places as singular as Corviale” [the 1km-long social housing complex south-west of Rome known as the Serpentone]. We have been talking for more than an hour and now Ranaldi has another meeting. So, does she still live in the neighbourhood and does Betty accompany her on the tours? “For over the last 30 years I have been living on Piazza Testaccio,” she says proudly. “Ottavo Colle aims at fostering a city that embraces diversity, including LGBT and pets. So, yes,” she says and smiles, “Betty does many of the tours.”

The modern 5,000-sqm Testaccio market is located near the old Mattatoio complex and MACRO museum. July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scene tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery recently relaunched near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it. Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.

Monitor

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

matic use of light and shadow associated with Baroque painting, the artist envelopes his subjects’ faces and bodies in darkness, highlighting key features and suggesting a battle between good and evil. Born in Caracas, Gomez moved as a child to Rome where his artistic journey began with graffiti before gravitating to street art and, more recently, figurative paintings. Galleria Varsi, Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 06 68309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

exhibitions Works by Tiziana Rinaldi Giacometti at Officine Farneto.

Untitled by Gomez at Galleria Varsi.

VIDEOZOOM DANIMARCA: BORDERLINES 24 June-13 July The work of six internationally-known Danish artists is presented as part of the 14th edition of the Videozoom project at Sala 1. Curated by Lorella Scacco, the exhibition is dedicated to the theme of memory and contemporary Danish life, with the videos confronting historic, human and psychological topics. The artists are Sonja Lillebæk Christense, Søren Thilo Funder, Stine Marie Jacobsen, Henrik Lund Jørgensen, Jeanette Land Schou, and Gitte Villesen, and this edition of Videozoom is supported by the Danish Arts Foundation, the Accademia Danimarca and the Danish embassy in Italy. Sala 1, Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. THE LASTING: L’INTERVALLO E LA DURATA 22 June-29 Jan 2017 The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna hosts an exhibition dedicated to “temporal dimensions”, specifically in relation to the concepts of intervals and duration. The show features more than 30 large-scale works by 15 Italian and international artists, spanning various generations and media. In addition to a younger generation of artists, the exhibition includes work by Alexander Calder, Lucio Fontana, Antony Gormley, Barbara Probst, Hiroshi Sugimoto and Tatiana Trouvé. GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.gnam. beniculturali.it.

Orlando affronta l’orca per liberare Olimpia by Armand Cambon at Villa d’Este in Tivoli.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

GOMEZ: NOX OMNIBUS LUCET 17 June-14 July Galleria Varsi presents Nox Omnibus Lucet, the first solo exhibition by Romebased artist Gomez. Conjuring the dra-

I VOLI DELL’ARIOSTO: L’ORLANDO FURIOSO E LE ARTI 15 June-30 Oct The magnificent Villa d’Este in Tivoli is the setting for an exhibition dedicated to the impact on the visual arts of the romance epic Orlando Furioso by Italian poet Ludovico Ariosto (1474-1533). The exhibition coincides with the 500th anniversary of the first edition of the poem whose central themes include war, love and chivalry, written in a mix of realism and fantasy. The exhibition comprises paintings, sculpture, tapestries and illustrated books, as well as a parallel programme of concerts, film screenings, theatre performances, lectures and readings of Ariosto’s celebrated work. For details of varying opening times see website, www.villadestetivoli.info. UGO RONDINONE: GIORNI D’ORO + NOTTI D’ARGENTO 10 June-1 Sept Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone presents two environmental installations at MACRO Testaccio and Trajan’s Markets. In both venues the New York-based artist creates creates imaginary settings settings, featuring white aluminium casts of ancient Italian olive trees and 45 clown figures, as well as hundreds of rainbows painted by Rome school children. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani, Trajan’s Markets, Via IV Novembre 94. DIVERSITÀ OFFICINE FARNETO 19 June-4 Aug This interesting space, designed by Enrico Del Debbio as part the Foro Italico, transformed into a ceramics factory post-war, and then into a multipurpose location for events in 2005, is now hosting a number of exhibitions by contemporary artists. Starting with a group show in June under the general heading Diversità there are now a series of solo exhibitions throughout July. The exhibitions, in quick-fire succession of one per week, are organised by art critic Miriam Castelnuovo and Massimo Lupoli, who runs an artfor-lease company. They are part of a travelling arts project that will move

around the country. 8-14 July: Cristiano and Patrizio Alviti. 15-20 July: Tiziana Rinaldi Giacometti. 21-27 July: Giampaolo Addari. 28 July-4 Aug: Sabato Angiero. Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77. CAPOLAVORI DA SCOPRIRE 1 June-8 Jan With its mix of ancient sculpture and modern industrial machinery, the Centrale Montemartini is one of Rome’s most unusual but least visited museums. (See Museums page 15 for details). New items on display include several ancient Roman mosaics and an Egyptian ivory doll, as well as a bust of Agrippina the Younger – wife of Claudius and mother of Nero – which is on loan from the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art museum in Copenhagen. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, w w w.centralemontemar t i n i . o rg. BENVENUTO FERRAZZI (1892-1969) 25 May-25 Sept The first retrospective in Rome of paintings by Benvenuto Ferrazzi (18921969), a lesser-known exponent of the Scuola Romana, a Rome-based expressionistic art movement which lasted from the late 1920s until the end of world war two. The 60 paintings and roughly 30 drawings on display document daily Roman life, painted in a style that veers between the macabre and mystical. Musei di Villa Torlonia, Casino dei Principi, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608.

work combines mysterious characters, socio-political messages and a surrealist sensibility. The artist also undertook an outdoor mural on Via delle Conce, in the Ostiense district, as part of the Dorothy Circus Gallery’s ongoing Spray for Your Rights project. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. LA MISERICORDIA NELL’ARTE 31 May-27 Nov Coinciding with the Vatican’s ongoing Holy Jubilee Year of Mercy, the Capitoline Museums examines the theme of mercy through paintings, sculpture, engravings and miniatures by Italian masters. The exhibition comprises works of art from across Italy, with highlights including paintings by Guido Reni, Jacopo Bertoia and Pierre Subleyras, as well as a bas-relief by Pietro Bernini, father of Gian Lorenzo. The museum also shows reproductions of two masterpieces that were deemed too precious to leave their homes in Naples and Sansepolcro

respectively: the Sette Opere di Misericordia by Caravaggio, and the Polittico della Misericordia by Piero della Francesca. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. KEN DOMON: IL MAESTRO DEL REALISMO GIAPPONESE 27 May-18 Sept One of Japan’s most renowned photographers of the 20th century, Ken Domon (1909-1990) is best remembered for his photojournalism as well as his atmospheric images of Buddhist temples and statuary. The Ara Pacis honours the maestro del realismo giapponese with a retrospective containing 150 photographs, in both black and white and colour, taken between the 1920s and 1970s. The exhibition features images of life in Japan before and after world war two, including the aftermath of the Hiroshima bombing. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

STILL SHOWING L’ARTE DEL SORRISO: LA CARICATURA A ROMA DAL SEICENTO AL 1849 Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi 9 June-2 Oct Palazzo Braschi displays a collection of 120 caricatures from its own collection as well as from cultural institutes across Italy. Although produced by artists of the calibre of Bernini, Carracci and Da Vinci, this irreverent form of portraiture began to assert itself as a serious genre in its own right in the 18th century. The exhibition shows the work of three Italian artists from that era: Pier Leone Ghezzi, Carlo Marchionni and Giuseppe Barberi whose caricatures and handwritten notes in the margins provide an unusual and detailed insight into society of the time. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. HYURO: CONVIVENCIA 9 June-23 July The first Italian solo show by Argentinian street artist Hyuro whose dreamlike

Sleep by Ugo Rondinone at MACRO Testaccio.

July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

BANKSY: GUERRA, CAPITALISMO & LIBERTA’ 24 May-4 Sept Palazzo Cipolla hosts the largest exhibition ever dedicated to the elusive British street artist Banksy, whose identity remains unknown. On loan from private collections around the world, the 150 works on display feature the most celebrated motifs by the artist and political activist from Bristol, including his rat series. As the title suggests, the exhibition focuses on themes central to Banksy’s work: war, capitalism and liberty. Palazzo Cipolla, Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www. fondazioneromamuseo.it. BRIAN ENO: LIGHT MUSIC 20 May-30 Sept The Galleria Valentina Bonomo in the Jewish ghetto presents an audiovisual installation by Brian Eno, the British multi-instrumentalist, composer, record producer, sculptor, painter and video artist. Eno, who is best known as a pioneer of electronic and ambient music as well as generative art, continues his exploration of vision, time, light and sound. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Lo studio con autoritratto, Chimera by Benvenuto Ferrazzi at Casa Torlonia.

GIANNI BERENGO GARDIN: VERA FOTOGRAFIA 19 May-28 Aug The Palazzo delle Esposizioni chronicles the long career of Italian photographer Gianni Berengo Gardin who was born in the northern Italian region of Liguria in 1939 but has lived and worked in Switzerland, Rome, Paris and Venice. Acclaimed for his reportage work, Berengo Gardin is considered by many as the most important photographer in Italy in the latter part of the 20th century. Via Nazionale 194, tel. 063996750, www.palazzoesposizioni.it. MADE IN ROME 13 May-20 Nov Exhibition using archaeological artefacts and interactive technology to highlight the use of brands, logos, signatures and symbols of ownership in ancient Rome. Mercati di Traiano, Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via Quattro Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

Ritratto di Agrippina Minore at Centrale Montemartini.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

CAMILLE HENROT: MONDAY 12 May-6 Nov The Fondazione Memmo presents the latest body of work by award-winning French artist Camille Henrot, along with a series of frescoes produced in situ for the foundation. Inspired by

Autogestione mural by Hyuro as part of her exhibition at Dorothy Circus Gallery.

the “first and most chaotic day of the week”, the exhibition comprises large bronze sculptures, both figurative and abstract, as well as frescoes created using traditional methods mixed with found documents, paper and small objects. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it. DALL’OGGI AL DOMANI: 24 ORE NELL’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA 30 April-2 Oct Exhibition focusing on the theme of “today” and the variety of ways in which the world measures time, from calendars to clocks. The exhibition includes 70 works by modern and contemporary Italian and foreign artists such as Balla, Boetti, Breakwell, Cambellotti, Darboven, Ghirri, Kawara, Shemilt & Partridge. MACRO, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org. TRIUMPHS AND LAMENTS 17 April-2 Oct MACRO presents an exhibition of works relating to the grand-scale mural along the banks of the Tiber highlighting seminal moments in Rome’s history by South African artist William Kentridge. The show comprises more than 80 preliminary works in charcoal, pastel and ink, as well as cut-outs and videos, which led to the final design of Triumphs and Laments. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

Sorelline orfane by Ken Domon at Ara Pacis.

ALPHONSE MUCHA 15 April-11 Sept Retrospective dedicated to the career of popular Czech artist Alphonse Mucha (1860-1939), best known for his Art Nouveau decorative depictions of women. On display are more than 200 of his works including paintings, posters, drawings and jewellery. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 066780664.

Love Rat screenprint by Banksy at Palazzo Cipolla.

ROMA ANNI TRENTA 24 March-30 Oct With the subheading La Galleria d’Arte Moderna e le Quadriennali d’Arte 1931 – 1935 – 1939, this exhibition at Rome’s municipal modern art gallery is dedicated to the first editions of the Quadriennale di Roma, a series of shows to July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MAXXI YAP MAXXI 2016 22 June-5 Oct The sixth Italian edition of the Young Architects Program, which promotes and supports young contemporary architecture. The winner of this year’s programme is by Milan-based Parasite 2.0 for the group’s installation MAXXI Temporary School: the museum is a school. A school Is a Battleground, which comprises elements of architecture, set design, art and performance. The playful project is centred around mobile backdrops that reproduce imaginary settings, drawing on elements of wood, rubber and metal, animal shapes and fragments of nature. The winning entry is displayed alongside the other projects by YAP 2016 finalists. EXTRAORDINARY VISIONS. L’ITALIA CI GUARDA 2 June-23 Oct Exhibition featuring 150 images by 40 important national and international photographers who capture Italy’s beauty and contradictions. The exhibition’s themes relate to contemporary Italy and include migration, hospitality, social inclusion and identity.

Basilicata Landscape by Franco Fontana at the Extraordinary Visions exhibition at MAXXI.

promote contemporary Italian art, from the 1930s. On display are works by Capogrossi, Casorati, De Chirico, Donghi, Mafai, Marini, Scipione and Severini, alongside lesser known paintings and sculpture. The exhibition also examines the connections to the fascist regime which sought to use art to promote its vision of a resurgent Rome. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

Donna alla toletta by Antonio Donghi at the Roma Anni Trenta exhibition.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

I MACCHIAIOLI 16 March-4 Sept The Chiostro del Bramante dedicates an exhibition to the Macchiaioli, a group of Italian painters active in Tuscany in the second half of the 19th century. In a similiar way to the Impressionists, the Macchiaioli spurned the outdated conventions of art academies, the artists painted en plein air to capture natural light, shade and colour. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

SISLEJ XHAFA: BENVENUTO! 2 June-2 Oct Retrospective dedicated to the New York-based Kosovan artist Sislej Xhafa whose 30 works on display present an ironic and irreverent visual journey through the complexities of the modern world. SUPERSTUDIO. 50 YEARS OF SUPERARCHITETTURA 20 April-4 Sept Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the exhibition Superarchitettura, held in Pistoia in 1966, by the Italian architecture firm Superstudio. See Wanted in Rome website for Jacopo Benci review. PIER LUIGI NERVI: LE ARCHITETTURE PER LO SPORT 5 Feb-2 Oct Plans, models, photographs and three-dimensional graphic presentations for over 60 sports’ projects span the entire career of Italian architect Pier Luigi Nervi (1891-1979), including projects such as the Vatican’s Paul VI Audience Hall. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

ART NEWS RETURN OF ROME QUADRIENNALE The 16th edition of the Quadriennale d’Arte di Roma will return to its historic venue, Palazzo delle Esposizioni, from 13 Oct-8 Jan 2017. The Quadriennale, a major show to promote prevailing trends in contemporary Italian art, was

first held in Rome in 1931 and the most recent edition took place in 2008. The show’s 11 curators have chosen 150 works by 100 artists, focusing on the development of Italian visual art since 2000, under the title Altri tempi, altri miti (Other times, other myths). Supported by the Italian culture ministry, the Quadriennale will include paintings, sculpture, video installations and photog-

raphy, and will be shown in 10 gallery spaces at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni. The event will cost €2 million, of which 50 per cent is covered by the culture ministry, with the other half funded by promoters Fondazione La Quadriennale di Roma and Azienda Speciale Palaexpo, and sponsors. A Quadriennale had been scheduled to take place in 2012 but was cancelled due to lack of funds.

VENICE ARCHITECTURE BIENNALE Rome street art project at Venice Architecture Biennale Big City Life, a major street art project in the south Rome neighbourhood of Tor Marancia, is part of the Italian entry at the 15th edition of the Venice Architecture Biennale, which runs until 27 November. Big City Life involved the creation of 22 giant murals on the façades of social-housing blocks by well-known Italian and international street artists during the spring of 2015, and since then has established itself as an important part of Rome’s contemporary art scene. Under the title Taking Care – Progettare per il bene comune, the Italian pavilion at the biennale promotes greater civic awareness for the common good by proposing realistic, alternative and sustainable ways of rejuvenating city suburbs. Divided into three sections: Think, Meet, and Act, the pavilion was commissioned by Federica Galloni, the head of the art and contemporary architecture and urban suburbs department at Italy’s culture ministry. The pavilion was curated by TAMassociati, a Venice-based architectural practice which for over 20 years has created socially The Italian pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale. sustainable projects often in disadvantaged places, including war zones in Afghanistan, Iraq and Senegal. Taking Care was constructed using the building materials left over from the Irish Origin Green pavilion at Milan’s EXPO 2015, a project which highlighted Ireland’s commitment to food security, nutrition and sustainability. The title of the 2016 Biennale is Reporting from the Front and it is directed by Chilean architect Alejandro Aravena who was recently awarded the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize. The showcase of international architecture includes entries from 63 countries, of which four are participating for the first time: Philippines, Nigeria, Seychelles and Yemen. The British pavilion is entitled Home Economics while the US entry is called The Architectural Imagination. The architecture section of the 120-year-old Venice Biennale was established in 1980 although an architecture category had been included in the art biennale since 1968. Events take place at the historic Giardini and Arsenale as well as at various venues throughout the city. For full details see website, www.labiennale.org.

Big City Life project at Tor Marancia in Rome.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

Stefano Bollani performs with the S. Cecilia orchestra in the Luglio Suona Bene programme.

INTERNATIONAL CHAMBER EMSEMBLE 14 July-11 Aug As usual the beautiful S. Ivo alla Sapienza courtyard, between Piazza di Spagna and the Pantheon, is the setting for a series of summer evening concerts. There are five themed evenings. New York, New York is the title of the concerts with orchestra on 14, 19 July and 6 and 11 Aug. Le quattro stagioni, tra Vivaldi e Piazzzolla concerts are on 16 and 20 July and 5 and 9 Aug. Il Trionfo del Barocco Italiano is scheduled on 22, 26 and 28 July. Noche di Tango on 23 July and Serate Sinfonica on 30 July, 2 and 3 Aug. Cortile S. Ivo alla Sapienza, Corso Rinscimento, www.interensemble.org.

CLASSICAL ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA I GIARDINI DI LUGLIO 2016 28 June-15 July The beautiful setting of the Filarmonica gardens, just a few minutes walk from Piazza del Popolo, provides an ideal background for summer music and this year the programme has an international flavour. Brazil is the theme on 6 July, Iran on 7 July, The Czech Republic on 8 July, Poland on 11 July, Malta and Austria on 12 July, Romania and England on 13 July, Slovakia and Great Britain on 14 July and Spain and the Mediterranean on 15 July. Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Venezuelan El Sistema educational model for disadvantaged young musicians and Argerich has long been a supporter of the musical formation for the young.

STEVEN SPIELBERG AND JOHN WILLIAMS 28 July Film music played by the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Frank Strobel. Music from Jurassic Park, Jaws, War Horse, Schindlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s List, Indiana Jones, Hook, The War of the Worlds, E.T. In the Cavea of the Auditorium Parco della Musica. MARTHA ARGERICH 7 Sept Martha Argerich plays music by Ravel with the Youth Orchestra of Bahia conducted by its founder Ricardo Castro. The Bahia orchestra is inspired by the

CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO FESTIVAL MUSICALE DELLE NAZIONI NOTTI ROMANE A TEATRO MARCELLO 1 July- end Sept The Tempietto stages a piano performance each evening in the Chiostro di Campitelli of Teatro di Marcello from the beginning of July to the end of September. The programme is mainly classical repertoire but there is some jazz and a couple of choral concerts. On 22 July there is a special evening for young performers called Tra Pianoforte, Canto e Poesia. www.tempietto.it.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA STEFANO BOLLANI 14 July As part of the Luglio Suona Bene programme classical and jazz pianist Stefano Bollani plays Poulenc in a programme of music with the S. Cecilia Orchestra conducted by Kristjan Jarvi which includes Berlioz, Bizet, Boccherini/Berio and Ravel. In the Cavea of the Auditorium Parco della Musica as part of the Luglio Suona Bene programme. DAVID GARRETT 21 July Popular violinist David Garrett plays Tchaikovskyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s violin concerto as part of a programme of music by Moncayo, Marquez and Ginastera performed by the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Alondra de la Parra. In the Cavea of the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Dynamic violinist David Garrett is at the Cavea, Auditorium Parco della Musica on 21 July. July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

POP, ROCK, JAZZ

The International Chamber Ensemble returns to the courtyard of S. Ivo alla Sapienza for evening concerts.

ROCK IN ROMA 7 June-24 July Rock in Roma is a major summer-long event dedicated to rock music, hosting over one million fans and some of the world’s biggest-name rock bands since it began in 2009. The July programme includes Glen Hansard (6 July), Suede & Stereophonics (11 July), Slayer (12 July), The 1975 (13 July), Skunk Anansie (15 July), Bruce Springsteen at the Circus Maximus (16 July), Primal Scream (18 July), and Iron Maiden (24 July). With the exception of the Circus Maximus concerts by Gimour and Springsteen, the action normally happens on three different-sized stages throughout the Rock in Roma racecourse site near Ciampino. For more details see Rock, Pop, Jazz section on page 26. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www. rockinroma.com. JUST MUSIC FESTIVAL 9 June-26 July An expanded edition of this international music festival which launched in Rome last year returns with an eclectic line-up, including some big names, with concerts in various venues around the capital. The July programme includes Disclosure (6 July, Foro Italico), Jean-Michel Jarre (9 July Auditorium Parco della Musica), Roisin Murphy (12 July Palazzo dei Congressi), Travis (14 July, Palazzo dei Congressi), Thievery Corporation (20 July, Palazzo dei Congressi), and ending on 26 July with Massive Attack (Auditorium Parco della Musica). For details see festival website, www.justmusicfestival.it.

Stereophonics perform with Suede at Rock in Roma.

Scottish rock band Travis for Just Music Festival.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

LUGLIO SUONA BENE 14 June-3 Aug This annual initiative has gained a reputation for the quality and variety of its musical programme with a concert most evenings throughout July, in the Auditorium’s central open-air “cavea”. Pop, rock, world music, jazz, electronic, even classical. Highlights include Keith Jarrett (12 July), Joan Baez (18 July), Santana (19 July), Massive Attack (26 July), Sting (27 July), Mika (31 July), ending on 3 Aug with Sean Paul. All concerts begin at 21.00. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 0680241281, www. auditorium.com. BATHS OF CARACALLA 14-15 July Lionel Richie performs at the Baths of Caracalla, on 14 July, as part of the Teatro dell’Opera summer season. The

American singer-songwriter and musician has sold more than 100 million records worldwide and is best known for hits such as Truly, Hello and All Night Long. The night after Richie’s concert, 15 July, sees a performance by Neil Young accompanied by Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real. The veteran Canadian singer-songwriter is known for his distinctive guitar sound and high-pitched singing voice as well as his political activism. His 1972 album Harvest was a massive hit worldwide while in the early 1990s Young found a new audience with albums such as Freedom and Harvest Moon. Baths of Caracalla, www.teatroroma.it.

VILLA ADA: ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO 30 June-31 July The annual world music festival returns to the shores of the little lake in the gardens of Villa Ada. The July programme includes Roma Brucia (8-9 July) ,The Alan Parsons Project (11 July), Tyler the Creator (13 July), Tiromancino (14 July), Kula Shaker (15 July), Tortoise (16 July), Lucinda Williams (18 July), Gramatik (20 July), Niccolò Fabi (22 July), and ending on 31 July with Dub FX. The festival area opens each night at 20.00 so that the public can enjoy food and drink from the ethnic food stalls before the music kicks off at 22.00. Villa Ada, Via di Ponte Salario, tel. 0641734712, www.villaada.org.

festivals ¡FIESTA! 1 June-Sept The festival brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome each year. Latin American dancers and singers provide over 100 hours of live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures. Highlights this month include Elito Revè (8 July) and Plan B (21 July). Located at Parco Rosati in the city’s EUR district, the festival acts as a bridge between Italians and the 100,000 Latin Americans living in the Lazio region. Via delle Tre Fontane 24, tel. 0687463296, www.fiesta.it. GAY VILLAGE 1 June-12 Sept The 15th edition of Gay Village features live dj sets, cabaret, film, readings, plenty of disco music and special guests. Once again Gay Village is under the artistic direction of transgender activist Vladimir Luxuria, and organisers have described the three-month festival as a “free state, with borders but without limits.” See website for programme. Parco del Ninfeo, Via delle Tre Fontane, EUR, tel. 065809098, www.gayvillage.it.

Lionel Richie gives an open-air concert at the Baths of Caracalla as part of the Teatro dell’Opera summer season.

Neil Young performs with Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real at the Baths of Caracalla.

MONDOFITNESS 8 June-11 Sept This annual festival is billed as the biggest sporting event of the Roman summer and always attracts large crowds of sporty types and health enthusiasts. The festival’s open air gym covers 30,000 sqm, is divided into 20 sporting sections and provides classes in 40 activities from aerobics to yoga, as well as martial arts, boxing, rowing, dance and beach sports. Viale Tor di Quinto 55/57, tel. 0633225155, www. mondofitness-roma.com. FESTIVAL DELLE LETTERATURE 14 June-14 July The 15th edition of Rome’s literature festival at the Basilica di Massenzio in the Roman Forum features Italian and international authors who read from their work, with the aid of professional actors and accompanied by live music. The authors are invited to write a text inspired by a chosen theme, which this year is Memories. Most of the events are in June however the July programme includes tributes to Shakespeare and Cervantes (12 July) and readings by Israeli writer Dorit Rabinyan (14 July). Entry is free, but tickets must be collected two hours beforehand at the festival booth on Clivio di Venere Felice. Readings are July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Roberto Latini with I giganti della montagna for Giardino Ritrovato on 27 July.

at 21.00, with access from 20.30. The Casa delle Letterature also includes an exhibition dedicated to Italian writer and playwright Enzo Siciliano, on the tenth anniversary of his death. For information tel. 060608 or see festival website, www.festivaldelleletterature. it.

Israeli author Dorit Rabinyan reads at the Festival delle Letterature on 14 July.

La scacchiera arcobaleno ondeggiante by Daniel Buren, part of the Par Tibi, Roma, Nihil installation for Romaeuropa Festival

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

IL GIARDINO RITROVATO 20 June-18 Sept Important new cultural festival offering art, music, dance, theatre and lectures in the setting of the recently-restored gardens of Palazzo Venezia, with seating for 300 spectators. Highlights include a mandolin concert by Brazil’s Hamilton De Holanda trio (8 July); a reinterpretation of the Pirandello classic I Giganti della Montagna by Roberto Latini (27 July); the Balletto di Roma with Contemporary Tango (1, 8 Aug); La ragazza con la valigia by actress Paolo Minaccioni who draws on her stage and television characters (23 Aug); a theatrical performance of Schnitzler’s Il Ritorno di Casanova by the Compagnia Lombardi-Tiezzi (30 Aug); and the opening of the 11th edition of the cutting edge Short Theatre with LUS, starring Ermanna Montanari and Luigi Ceccarelli (7 Sept). The festival also includes Conversazioni d’arte, a programme of talks given by art experts who explore a range of topics including the legacy of artists such as Giotto, Raphael and Bernini. Events begin at 21.00, tickets can be purchased at the Palazzo Venezia museum as well as online. For details see website, www.giardinoritrovato.it. Palazzo Venezia, Via del Plebiscito 118.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 24 June-3 Dec The multidisciplinary Romaeuropa Festival returns with an action-packed programme of contemporary dance, theatre, circus, art, technology and music, under the title Portati Altrove. This year’s edition comprises 50 events, of which 34 are Italian premieres, with over 145 days of performances, including the summer anteprima section on the Palatine Hill. The Patrimonio e Creazione preview includes the exhibition Par Tibi, Rome, Nihil exhibition, with work by 36 artists, at various outdoor venues around the Palatine (24 June-18 Sept) as well as Palamede, la storia performance by Alessandro Baricco at the Stadio di Domiziano (4-9 July). Romaeuropa director Fabrizio Grifasi said this year’s programme – as the title’s altrove or “elsewhere” suggests – alludes to the organisers’ responsibility in “choosing the boundaries and characteristics” of the festival. Highlights include barbarians, a dance production and Italian premiere by Israeli choreographer Hofesh Shechter, at Teatro Argentina (21-24 Sept); Forced Entertainment, featuring 36 Shakespearean works condensed into 50-minute performances over eight days at MACRO Testaccio (8-16 Oct); Rome-based contemporary American composer Alvin Curran at the laghetto at Villa Borghese (25 Sept) and at the French Academy, Villa Medici (25 Nov); and The Dog Days Are Over, described as a “jumped, minimal and political work for eight performers”, by Belgian choreographer Jan Martens at Teatro Vascello (2 Nov). Also to look forward to is the seventh edition of the festival’s futuristic section Digital Life, dedicated to the interaction between visual arts and technology, including Zee, an immerisve audiovisual project featuring artificial fog, stroboscopes, pulse lights and surround sound, by Chicago-based Austrian artist Kurt Hentschläger; and 3D Water Matrix, a kinetic water installation by Shiro Takatani and Christian Partos. For booking, events and venue information tel. 0645553050 or see festival website, www.romaeuropa.net.

FESTIVALS OUT OF TOWN During the summer music and opera leave the city concert halls and move out across the country or into outside spaces. A music tourist could happily travel the country from north to south, from festival to festival, from July to September. Here is a brief selection of what is available. See also Opera.

The platform at Villa Rufolo overlooking the Amalfi coast is the setting for the Ravello Festival each year.

INCONTRI IN TERRA SIENA LA FOCE TUSCANY 29 July-5 Aug Music against a background of Tuscan history, culture and cuisine in the family setting made famous by Iris Origo. Beethoven sonatas combine with Rossini, Mendelssohn, Schubert, Brahms, music from southern Italy and jazz. There are also guided tours of the region and gastronomic events. Once just for music and musicians the festival is now more of a chance to listen to music and enjoy Tuscany at the same time. La Foce, www.itslafoce.org. FESTIVAL PONTINO DI MUSICA LAZIO 8-31 July This music festival usually takes place in the Caetani stronghold of Sermoneta at the same time as summer music courses at the Campus Internazionale di Musica in Latina. As always the programme is an esoteric mix of classical, modern, contemporary and jazz. Day-by-day details are on the www.campusmusica.it or tel. 0773 / 605551, info@campusmusica. it or info@fondazionecaetani.org. PERUGIA UMBRIA JAZZ 8-17 July This top quality jazz festival attracts about 200,000 fans to the Umbrian town of Perugia for 10 days of concerts and events. Once the exclusive territory of the best names in jazz it now also includes rock, world music, Cuban salsa and African music concerts and workshops. This year there is a mix of concerts in the S. Giuliana arena, a talent search, jazz clinics and various specialist concerts in wine bars and restaurants. For programme details see www.umbriajazz.com.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

RAVENNA EMILIA ROMAGNA 13 May-13 July This year the programme’s festival is dedicated to the value of freedom and in particular to Nelson Mandela, based on two quotations, one from Dante “I seek Liberty” and the other by Mandela “I have walked that long road to freedom.” This top quality festival, launched by Riccardo Muti in 1990, is now one of Italy’s most comprehensive, imaginative and well financed. It includes art exhibitions, concerts (classical, contemporary and jazz), dance, cinema and more. It is now nearly at an end but there is still the Batsheva Dance Company (6 July), Alonso King Lines Ballet (9 July), Joan Baez (13 July) and Water Dances by Michael Nyman (23 July). Events take place around the city, for the full programme see the website www.ravennafestival.org. RAVELLO AMALFI COAST 1 July-18 Sept The setting alone, above the Amalfi coast, is worth a visit to this festival. Most of the events are staged in Villa Rufolo, which inspired Richard Wagner’s imagery in his opera Parsifal. Wagnerian themes, which were the norm in the early festivals, have now been replaced by more popular events and the 2016 edition is a mix of music, the visual and performing arts. There is a special section called Jazz Voices of Europe, an interesting dance section (with works by Virgilio Sieni (31 July), Karol Armitage (6 Aug) and stars of Cuban ballet (20 Aug). One of the most ambitious projects is the performance of Beethoven’s piano concertos and sonatas (25-28 Aug). There are various symphonic concerts with the RAI Symphonic Orchestra conducted by James Conlon (23-24 July), Orchestra Giovanile Italiana conducted by

Jeffrey Tate (28 Aug), Orchestre National du Toulose (30 Aug) conducted by Tugan Sokhiev. Nuove voci per L’opera (31 Aug) sees performances by promising young opera singers chosen by the Young Singers Project of the Salisburg Festival and Young Artists project supported by the Kuhne Foundation. See www.ravellofestival.com. SPOLETO UMBRIA 24 June-10 July Spoleto, once one of the most famous of Italian festivals when it was under the guidance of Gian Carlo Menotti, has never quite managed to get back on track. This year it has more funding from the ministry of fine arts but still seems to be searching for a new raison d’etre. There was only one opera La Nozze di Figaro and the dance section was also thin compared with what it was in the past. There is an exhibition dedicated to Canova, which illustrates the connection between the great sculptor and Umbria. Two new works by sculptor James Capper, called Telestep and Atlas, and an exhibition by Daniel Spoerri called Bronze Age curated by the most revered of all Italian art critics, Achille Bonito Oliva. There are plenty of what are randomly called “events” and a long list of Italian contemporary theatre with Emma Dante’s Odissea A/R, a production by Emma Dante with the students from the School of Performing Arts in Palermo. Thankfully there are still the traditional noon-time and evening concerts in the church of S. Eufemia and the piazza concerts in Piazza del Mercato. And for the closing concert Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra (10 July) in Piazza del Duomo with Stefano Bollani at the piano and music by Schonberg, Lehar and Gershwin. For full programme details see www.festivaldispoleto.com.

Gigi Proietti takes the stage with Edmund Kean at the Globe.

theatre SHAKESPEARE AT GLOBE THEATRE 23 June-9 Oct This year’s Shakespearean programme at Rome’s Silvano Toti Globe Theatre is much expanded and includes numerous novelties, including an Englishlanguage performance, on the 400th anniversary of the death of The Bard. The festival is once again under the direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti who, for the first time in his 13year tenure as artistic director, takes to the stage to perform a Shakespeare tribute, based on the monologue Edmund Kean by Raymund FitzSimons. The programme continues with Proietti’s Tribute to Shakespeare (8-17 July); The Merchant of Venice directed by Loredana Scaramella (22 July-7 Aug); for the tenth consecutive year A Midsummer Night’s Dream directed by Riccardo Cavallo (1021 Aug); and A Winter’s Tale directed by Elena Sbardella (26 Aug-11 Sept). Other

productions include Love Sonnets which features a mix of Shakespeare’s most lyrical verses accompanied by music from modern-day musicians such as Marvin Gaye, Amy Winehouse, Leonard Cohen and Alanis Morissette (29 Aug, 5, 19, 26 Sept). Proietti also directs a group of young actors in a fresh interpretation of Romeo and Juliet (16 Sept-2 Oct). The festival ends on a high-note for Rome’s English speakers: the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company, which returns for the second year, presents an English-language production of The Tempest directed by Chris Pickles (5-9 Oct). Rome’s Globe Theatre, located in the heart of Villa Borghese, is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. All shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production. For details see website, www.globetheatreroma.com.

The Sferisterio theatre is the setting for the annual Macerata Opera Festival.

opera BATHS OF CARCALLA ROME 22 June-9 Aug The three operas in the Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma summer season at the Baths of Caracalla are Nabucco (9 July-9 Aug), Il Barbiere di Siviglia (18 July-10 Aug) and Madame Butterfly (19 July-8 Aug). Nabucco is a new production by the Teatro dell’ Opera, conducted by John Fiore and directed by Federico Grazzini. Grazzini is young, talented and a graduate of Milan’s prestigious Piccolo Theatre. He won considerable praise for his lively modern interpretation of Rigoletto at the Marcerata opera festival last year (see Macerata below). Baths of Caracalla, wwwoperaroma.it. FESTIVAL DELLA VALLE D’ITRIA MARTINA FRANCA PUGLIA 14 July-5 Aug The festival marks the bicentenary of the death of Giovanni Paisiello and the festival opens with the composer’s La Grotta del Trofonio (14 July), a co-production with the S. Carlo di Napoli. As usual the festival is dedicated to 17th century music, 19thcentury bel canto and Pugliese and Neapolitan composers. The highlight of this year’s festival is Saverio Mercadante’s Francesca da Rimini which will be performed for the first time. This world premiere (30 July) will be conducted by Fabio Luisi and directed by Pier Luigi Pizzi. Martina Franca, festivaldellavalleditria.it. See also Opera Notes. MACERATA OPERA FESTIVAL LE MARCHE 22 July-14 Aug The Mediterranean is the theme of this year’s festival which is staging only three operas, Verdi’s Otello (22 and 30 July, 5 and 13 Aug), Rossini’s Norma (23 and 29 July and 7 Aug) and Verdi’s Il Trovatore (31 July, 6 and 12 Aug). This opera festival, which dates back to the 1920s, came into its own again in the 1980s. It has to fill the 3,000-seater Sferisterio so plays safe with the repertoire but has increased and widened its appeal to new spectators. Always short of funds it has however improved the quality of its productions (now a mix of contemporary and traditional) and under the artistic direction of Francesco Micheli it is also turning into a testing ground for young and talented directors. Macerato, www.sferisterio.it. See also Opera Notes. PUCCINI FESTIVAL TUSCANY 15 July-13 Aug Given that this is a Puccini festival in the villa where the composer once lived and July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

worked Tosca (15 July and 6 and 11 Aug), La Boheme (16 and 22 July and 5 and 6 Aug), Turandot (23 and 30 July and 12 Aug) and Madame Butterfly (29 July and 10 Aug) are obvious choices. The surprise this year is Ferruccio Busoni’s version of Turandot, first performed in Zurich in 1917, well before Puccini’s opera, which was still unfinished at the time of his death and not performed until 1926 at La Scala, conducted by Toscanini. The Busoni version, written in record time to meet the deadline given him by the Zurich opera house, is in the style of a lively 18th-century Italian opera and in a much lighter vein that the Puccini version. It will be performed on 31 July and 13 Aug. Torre del Lago, Lucca, www.puccinifestival.it. VERONA ARENA FESTIVAL VENETO 24 June-28 Aug There are five operas in the festival this year; Bizet’s Carmen (24 June-27 Aug), Aida by Verdi (25 June-28 Aug), La Traviata by Verdi (2 July-30 July), Turandot by Puccini (23 July-25 Aug) and Il Trovatore by Verdi (6 Aug-26 Aug). Three of the operas are classic Zeffirelli re-runs (Carmen, Turandot and Il Trovatore). La Traviata is a Hugo De Ana production from 2011 and the staging of Aida is the version that dates back to 1913. On 18 July there is the usual evening with the ballet star Roberto Bolle and friends. The Arena is in considerable financial and managerial difficulty but this year’s programme is not at risk. Arena di Verona, www.arena.it.

dance BOLZANO BOLZANO DANZA 14-30 July If you want an update on the world of dance head for Bolzano where there are a two weeks of workshops, lessons and performances. On stage are Alonso King Lines Ballet (18 July), Aakash Odedra (19 July), Anticorpi eXpLo (20, 25, 27 July), Helena Waldmann (20 July), Balletto di Roma (22-23 July), Lali Ayguade (22 July), Emanuel Gat Dance (25 July), Centre Choregraphique National du Grenoble (26 July), Gauthier Dance (27 July), Cie Heddy Maalem (29 July). Bolzano, www.bolzanodanza.it.

MILAN SWAN LAKE 30 June-31 July A new production of Tchaikovsky’s classic with staging and additional choreograpahy by Alexei Ratmansky and the La Scala ballet company. This is a co-production with the Zurich Opera House. Ratmansky was the director of the Bolshoi Ballet until 2008 and is now artist in residence at the American Ballet Theatre. Teatro alla Scala, Via Folodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME ROMESTATE INTERNATIONAL DANCE SUMMER 10-22 July International workshops, master classes performances and new choreographies take place at the Dance Arts Faculty (DAF) in the ex-Lanificio in Pietralata on the first floor of an wool factory which has now become a multidisciplinary cultural centre where there is also exhibition space and a restaurant. Via di Petralata159/A, www.danceartsfaculty.it. ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS 25-26 July The star of La Scala ballet tours Italy throughout the summer giving solo performances with his friends. Once again he is an important part of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma summer programme at the Baths of Caracalla.

The Emanuel Gat Dance Company at Bolzano Danza 2016.

OPERA NOTES La 42a edizione del Festival della Valle d”itria si svolgerà a Martina Franca, in provincia di Taranto, dal 14 luglio al 5 agosto. Si aprirà con la commedia per musica di Giovanni Paisiello La grotta di Trofonio (14 e 31 luglio). Una prima rappresentazione in tempi moderni proposta come omaggio a un compositore di scuola napoletana che è un nome importante nella storia della musica europea settecentesca, nato a Roccaforzata vicino a Taranto ma morto a Napoli proprio duecento anni fa. Seguirà Baccanali di Agostino Steffani (15, 20, 22 e 29 luglio): un’altra prima rappresentazione in tempi moderni. L’opera di un illustre compositore veneto attivo soprattutto nella seconda metà del XVII secolo, che era pure cardinale e che il festival sta riscoprendo: due edizioni fa propose con grande successo la sconosciuta ma bella La lotta d’Ercole con Archeloo. Il titolo di punta è Francesca da Rimini di Saverio Mercadante (30/7, 2 e 4 agosto). Un lavoro, come dicono i musicologi, di ampio respiro e di forti ambizioni, che però nessuno conosce o ha mai ascoltato perché misteriosamente non è stato mai rappresentato: il Festival della Valle d”Itria lo presenterà in prima assoluta mondiale. Sarà diretto da Fabio Luisi e messo in scena, realizzando come al solito anche le scene e i costumi, Pier Luigi Pizzi. Chiuderà il cerchio Così fan tutte di Mozart (21/7 e 1 agosto), un capolavoro del teatro musicale settecentesco con temi analoghi a quelli dell’opera inaugurale di Paisiello. Sarà eseguito in forma semiscenica con la recitazione curata da Juliette Deschamps e con la direzione ancora di Fabio Luisi, il Direttore Musicale del Festival. La 52a Stagione Lirica dell’Arena Sferisterio di Macerata si svolgerà dal 22 luglio al 14 agosto e presenterà tre titoli famosi e amati dal grande pubblico, legati dal “fil rouge” del Mare Mediterraneo. La prima opera sarà Otello di Giuseppe Verdi (22 e 30 luglio, 5 e 13agosto) dove «il mare in tempesta di Cipro, abisso dell’inquietudine che regna sovrana sullo sfondo della tragedia – come si legge nella presentazione della stagione – è scenario di delitti passionali». Canteranno Stuart Neill (Otello), Jessica Nuccio (Desdemona) e Roberto Frontali (Jago) e dirigerà Riccardo Frizza. «Il Mediterraneo è culla del compositore che ha generato una musica capace di raccontarci la distanza sconfinata tra i tormenti umani e la serenità del cielo». E questo vale per Norma (23 e 29 luglio e 7 agosto), il capolavoro di Vincenzo Bellini che avrà per protagonista Maria José Siri con Sonia Ganassi (Adalgisa), Rubens Pellizzari (Pollione) e Nicola Ulivieri (Oroveso). Sul podio Michele Gamba. Ultimo titolo in cartellone sarà Il trovatore di Giuseppe Verdi (31 luglio, 6 e 12 agosto), perché «il Mediterraneo è il perimetro che circoscrive la difficile convivenza tra zingari e potere medievale aragonese». Gli interpreti principali saranno Anna Pirozzi (Leonora) Enkelejda Shkosa (Azucena), Piero Pretti (Manrico), Marco Caria (Il conte di Luna) e Alessandro Spina (Ferrando), La prima e l’ultima rappresentazione saranno dirette da Daniel Oren, mentre la seconda recita da Francesco Ivan Ciampa. Paolo Di Nicola

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

Wim Wenders (17 July), Tom à la ferme by Xavier Dolan (26 July), Amarcord by Federico Fellini (27 July), and Disney’s Pocahontas (30 July). Piazza S. Cosimato, www.trasteverecinema.it.

Sopra di me il diluvio by Enzo Cosimi at the Teatro Vascello.

TEATRO VASCELLO FUORI PROGRAMMA 5-14 July Ten days of top quality dance and theatre-dance comes at the end of the Teatro Vascello season. Performances include Sopra di me il diluvio (5-6 July) and Fear Party by Enzo Cosmo (7-8 July), Passion Live, Life with 11 Italian and Hungarian dancers (9 July), Per... Incisor and Attacchi di Pane by the GDO Dance Company (13, 14 July). Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www. teatrovascello.it.

academies CASA DI GOETHE 8 June-11 Sept Organised in collaboration with the Italian embassy to Germany and the Italian Cultural Institute in Berlin, the exhibition Con Goethe in Italia marks the 200th anniversary since the publication of Italian Journey, Goethe’s report on his travels to Italy from 1786– 1788. The exhibition features works inspired by Goethe’s writings by three artists: Michaela Maria Langenstein from Munich, and Elisa Montessori and Claudia Peill, both from Genoa. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

cinema this summer, showing animation classics, Italian comedies and documentaries and retrospectives dedicated to Martin Scorsese and Wim Wenders. A novelty this year are the 21 films screened either in English or with subtitles in English. The festival is organised by the Piccolo Cinema America whose president Valerio Carocci told Wanted in Rome: “We believe that tourists should also engage with Roman culture to understand and experience life in the capital.” The screenings take place at 21.15, while many week nights are enlivened by debates featuring figures from Italian cinema. The English language programme in July includes Pixar’s Monsters & Co. (9 July), After Hours by Martin Scorsese (10 July), Les Amours imaginaires by Xavier Dolan (12 July), The Third Man by Carol Reed (13 July), Disney’s Beauty and the Beast (16 July), Buena Vista Social Club by

ISOLA DEL CINEMA 9 June-4 Sept This quality cinema event lights up the Isola Tiberina in the middle of the river Tiber each evening over the summer. Under the title Hollywood sul Tevere, the 2016 edition of this multi-faceted festival includes 90 screenings, encounters and discussions with important figures from the world of film, while its programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries, and big international productions. Films in the Isola Mondo section and some documentaries in the Fuoco sul Reale category are screened in their original language versions. For details tel. 0658333113 or see website, www. isoladelcinema.com. SUMMER KINO 9 June-31 Aug The arthouse cinema Kino presents a three-month festival of open-air cinema and parallel cultural events including live music, readings and stand-up comedy, at the Ex Dogana building (former custom house) in the S. Lorenzo district. All films are screened in their original language version, with Italian subtitles. In addition to its cinema programme the festival offers a cocktail bar and six eateries, along with stands selling vintage clothing and “indie” books. In 2010 the former Grauco film club in Pigneto was transformed into Cinema Kino, which shows Italian and international films throughout the year. For details of summer festival see website, www. ilkino.it.

cinema FESTIVAL TRASTEVERE RIONE DEL CINEMA 1 June-1 Aug Piazza S. Cosimato in the Trastevere district becomes a free open-air

The Festival Rione Trastevere shows films in Piazza S. Cosimato throughout July. July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town CASSIA - PANORAMIC APARTMENT NEXT TO AMERICAN OVERSEAS SCHOOL. 125 sqm, 5th floor, 360 degree panoramic view over Insugherata Natural Park, just modernised, completely furnished, living room, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, eat-in furnished kitchen, carport, 2 terraces. Facilities: custodian, parking, park, soccer field. Direct access available to Insugherata Park. Contact studio.salera@gmail.com. FLAT FOR RENT LA SAPIENZA/POLICLINICO METRO B. 100 sqm living room, 3 rooms, storage room, 2 toilets, furnished kitchen, balconies, €1.800/ month + condominio €80, Fabrizio tel. 340 / 3403901988. MANZONI AREA. Furnished studios:1) For single person €480 mostly minimum 4 months. 2) Garden flat €800 monthly minimum 8 months. Email: dellascala4@gmail.com. MONTEVERDEVECCHIO, VIA OTTAVILLA. Monteverdevecchio, Via Ottavilla, bright, furnished apartment, 3rd floor, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living room, kitchen, washing machine, dishwasher, fortified door, airconditioning, lift, €1.500 monthly, a.petro@libero.it, tel. 349 / 4962562. NICE ROOM GIANICOLO-MONTEVERDE. Nice old fashioned room available, located 500 m from Gianicolo and

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

500 from Villa Pamphilj and 400 from the American University. Fully furnished, the house is an old one located in a charming area and perfectly served by train and buses (perfect for FAO workers). The apartment has a kitchen and 3 bedrooms, 2 are occupied by two girls (Sweden, USA) and they prefer to share their apartment with another girl. For further info contact Giulio, giulio. ccinini@100montaditos.it.

double bedroom, bathroom and kitchenette. Available. We speak English. No Agency commission. monica. grande07@gmail.com. TRASTEVERE. Nicely furnished, 3rd floor, sunny,entrance, living room, 1bedroom, live-in kitchen, bathroom with shower, independent heating, air conditioning, internet, with all appliances, available monthly €1.300 plus

PANORAMIC. Cristoforo Colombo, furnished, living-dining room, two bedrooms, guest room, two bathrooms, eat-in kitchen, balconies, tel. 328 / 4547592, saab5621@gmail. com. PENTHOUSE TRASTEVERE. Very elegant building with lift. Bright, comfortable apartment with stunning view. Tastefully furnished and redecorated in excellent condition. Exposed beams, air con, good storage, large living area,

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Office hours: Mon – Fri 10.00 – 16.00. Orari ufficio: lun – ven 10.00 – 16.00.

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Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

3 Aug 7 Sept

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

expenses, tel. 333 / 2843762, delpinto@hotmail.it. TRASTEVERE. Lungara. Furnished ground floor apartment, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 living areas, large kitchen. Dishwasher, washing machine. €1.500 month. Contact Ilaria, ilaria@ diananet.it. VIGNA CLARA. NEAR PONTE MILVIO. Vigna Clara. Near Ponte Milvio. Delicious mini apartment, about 25sqm, completely furnished, bedroom-kitchen, bathroom, €550 monthly, all included. Tel. 346 / 7882036. VILLA FOR RENT ON CASSIA. Within easy reach of the American Overseas & Marymount International School, this villa features a private garden and spectacular view on the Insugherata Park. Just off Cassia, it is near S. Pietro Hospital and Corso Francia / Ponte Milvio. 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 balconies, a sun terrace, we rent partially furnished for 3 years. Ideal for families and a paradise for your dog. Please contact Federico Angeloni by WhatsApp, Tel. 333 / 7817703.

Accommodation vacant out of town APARTMENT IN TORRE IN PIETRA. Refurbished apartment in the Castle of Torre in Pietra. 95 sqm. Living room, 2 bedrooms, bathroom, livable kitchen, small terrace, access to close by garden. €900 negotiable. Via Aurelia km 25. rpentaanzani@hotmail.it or 338 / 2582718, 339 / 1989004. CAPRANICA AREA (VITERBO). TO RENT. 80 sqm flat, first floor in the main square of the Capranica village (XIII cent.), very bright and quiet, nice view. Two bedrooms, living room, fully furnished kitchen with working fireplace, 1 bathroom, 3 balconies. €400 per month. It could be furnished or not. For further information: tel.

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

3496451790 / info_rent@yahoo.it. CASAL DO’ BASO SUMMER LETS. 3 bedroom holiday apartment in Campagnano di Roma, large garden and private poolvisit our website: www. casaldobaso.com.

English language is a must. Autonomy, precision, flexibility and confidentiality are required. During the interview accounting, general computer skills, and English levels will be tested. Applicants should send a CV authorising personal data treatment pursuant to Legislative Decree no. 196/03. Only CVs written in English will be considered. wantedinrome.aassistant@gmail.com.

Jobs vacant “ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER”. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT / SECRETARY. Prestigious International law firm is looking for an Accounting Assistant / Secretary for its Rome Office. In order to apply the candidate must have: - International law firm environment experience - Diploma in accounting or equivalent - Two years experience as an assistant accountant - Familiarity with the general secretarial activities. He/ she will be working mainly with accounts payable, accounts receivable, bank reconciliation and budgeting. Excellent knowledge of Excel, Word and PowerPoint is required. Fluent written and spoken

ADMINISTRATION ASSOCIATE. Principal Relocation Company seeks motivated, focused and goal oriented individual to work as an Administration Associate. Must have excellent Excel skills and demonstrable experience in office administration, cost & margin management, and familiarity with vendors. Fluency in English and Italian is essential. Please send CV/photo to: careers (at) principalrelocation.com with ref: AA-RM. ASSISTANT WANTED. MUST BE fluent in English - Mother Tongue preferred. MUST HAVE lived in Rome for at least 2 years and speak Italian relatively well.

MUST BE able to follow instructions. The job will involve the following tasks: Dealing with enquiries - email or phone. Showing apartments. Checking tenants in and out. Social Media posting. Creating Apartment descriptions. Creating Apartment instructions and tips for local area. Writing articles for blog etc. Apartment checks. If you think you qualify, for more information and how to apply please email admin@cribrentalsrome.info and put Assistant Job in the Subject line. BILINGUAL SCHOOL IS SEEKING ENGLISH AND ITALIAN TEACHERS. Ostia International School is looking for part-time and full-time teachers for the new academic school year. All teachers need to be mother tongue and have a B. Ed, PGCE or equivalent teaching degree. info@ostiainternationalschool.it BUSINESS ENGLISH TEACHERS. WorkinEnglish srl are seeking highly motivated qualified English teachers for in-company courses in Rome, Pomezia and Latina. Benefits include: a competitive salary, contract, a supportive and professional environment, teacher resource centre, job stability and career progression. Applicants must be native speakers, TEFL qualified, EU citizens and living in the area. Send CV (with photo) and cover letter to info@workinenglish.it.

national contracts, holiday pay, bonus and benefits, as well as career progression and training. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter. ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHER. Bilingual kindergarten is seeking for an auxiliary teacher part-time.info@ universitadeibambini.it. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE teachers living in Rome required for a school in Anagnina area CV to info@ englishscool.it. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHING POSITION. English Mother Tongue teaching position requested for bilingual school for ages 3-5 in Bracciano near Rome.arcobalenasilo@ gmail.com.

CASTING CALL FOR ENGLISH SPEAKING ACTOR AND ACTRESSES. Casting call for English speaking actor and actresses between 14 and 60 years old, (also American accent). We require you for for lead roles in important projects, films, tv series, between Italy, England and America, please call 065826540 or 0658203082 or send photo and cv to studioemme2011@ gmail.com.

EXPERIENCED EMT NURSERY SCHOOL TEACHERS. Our NEW third branch is REGGIO APPROACH in style and philosophy. Are you motivated and driven? Do you believe in team work? We are looking to train commited, adaptive, EMT nursery school teachers who are enthusiastic about learning how to implement the Reggio method. We are a small professional team, strong believers in the competence of children and ready to embark on a new school year full of discovery. didactic.reggio@gmail.com.

ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid is seeking highly motivated, university educated Business English trainers. We offer long term

FULL-TIME SECRETARY / RECEPTIONIST. Needed for language school in Rome’s centre. Candidates must be able to communicate well in both

English and Italian, possess good interpersonal skills, and exhibit team spirit. Office experience preferred. Valid working papers req’d. Send cover letter and CV to job@angloamerican. it with RECEPTIONIST in Subject line. GMAT INSTRUCTOR WANTED. MasterPrep International is looking for an English speaking professional (mother tongue or high working proficiency level) for teaching the quantitative part of standard university entrance exams like GMAT and GRE. Availability on Saturdays is requested. Please send your CVs to info@masterprep.it. LOOKING FOR PROFESSIONAL SPEAK DIFFERENT LANGUAGE IN TOURISM. Looking for smart dynamic professional specially ladies who speak different language (English, Spanish, French, Portuguese) to work with tourist in Rome, Italy. Requested to contact those who are dedicated to responsibility, work under pressure and in challenging to the job. If you are ready to work under competitions and want to become the best then we are ready to take you in our group.ideainternational@gmail.com. MOTHERTONGUE QUALIFIED ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIRED. Mothertongue qualified english teachers required for company courses in Anagnina area and Rome centre. Please send CV to info@trainingclub.com. NURSERY/ ENGLISH TEACHER. We are looking for a full time Nursery and English teacher. thetreehouserome@ gmail.com. POSITION VACANT FOR KINDERGARDEN (5 YEAR OLDS) TEACHER. Beginning September 2016. Requirements: English mother tongue; minimum 2 years experience; teaching all subjects in a self-contained classroom; written references; EU passporty and work permit; intention of remaining in Rome at least two years (trial period included). Please do not apply unless July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

all the above conditions are met. info@ kendale.it. RUNNING GUIDES. Sightjogging seeks expert runners, living in Rome, fluent in English/German &/or French. Send CV to: info@sightjogging.ithttps://www.sightjogging.it. SEEKING YOUNG WORKERS CARGO INDUSTRY. World Cargo, a leader in the international freight forwarding and logistics industry, is seeking young interns to possibly insert our workforce. Good English and Italian required together with basic use of Office Suite. Openings in Rome and Milan. If interested please email: lavoro@worldcargo. it. For info see: https://www. facebook.com/pages/World-Cargo/114364505303941. TOURIST CUSTOMER CARE. DoYouBnb is looking for smart pas-

sionated people to work in contact with tourists in Rome. Rich incentives. http://www.doyoubnb.com/ jobs/customer-care-house-maintenance/wantedinrome@doyoubnb. com. WORK FROM HOME! Looking for people with their own smartphones and/or laptops for one day (Sunday) work in the middle of June, approximately from 09.00 to 12.00. Great compensation! For more information call 340 / 8521612 or email rrtmarina@gmail.com. lessons GUITAR LESSONS. Guitar player graduated at Musikene High School of Music offers guitar lessons (blues-jazzpop-rock) at all levels in English, Spanish or Italian. www.losioemmanuel. com, 329 / 8495001.

PRIVATE TUITION IN ENGLISH LANGUAGE, LITERATURE AND MATHS. Highly experienced British private tutor, over five years experience tutoring pupils across London and Europe in English Literature, History, Philosophy, Religious Studies and Entrance Examinations. Many years experience teaching English Language in Italy/Rome. Each session tailored around pupil’s needs. danielle_hurren@hotmail.co.uk. Poetry THE MOTOR. The motor of your body is like the motor of a racing car. The difference is that it does not switch off. Rev up. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. Property for sale in town AXA - VIA SAFFO - 290 sqm VILLA. AXA - Via Saffo - We have a very bright

July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

and remodeled “bifamiliare” for sale in one of the most prestegious residential neighbourhoods in Rome, AXA. The home is 290 sqm on 3 floors, closed garage for 2 cars and A/C, independent heating and solar panels. 80 sqm of private garden complete the property. The home has a large living room, eatin kitchen, 5 bedrooms, 5 bathrooms. Sale price: €850,000. For more information, call Bonnie Rose-Zanni (American) at (+39) 347 / 4009753 at Immobiliare Zanni Real Estate Agency. Agency Finder’s Fee Applied. PIAZZA MAZZINI - BEAUTIFUL 180SQM FLAT FOR SALE. We have the most amazing, elegantly remodeled 180sqm apartment in Piazza Mazzini for sale near the RAI Studios and not far from the Vatican. This is one of the most acclaimed squares and neighborhoods in Rome as it full of celebrity restaurants and cafès. Situated on the first floor of a prestigioius

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

building with concierge service, the apartment is made up of a grand entrance hallway (with one step), a very spacious living room with high-reaching windows as the ceiling is over 3 m tall, a large dining room connecting to the living room by sliding doors, eat-in kitchen with access to a balcony overlooking the internal courtyard with fruit trees, 1 master bedroom with built-in closets and bathroom with shower ensuite, 3 bedrooms, bathroom with shower, laundry room. The apartment was remodeled in 2010. There is an extraordinarily beautiful parquet flooring throughout the entire apartment, built-in closets, A/C in each room, and a sophisticated alarm system. Ideally, one could walk in with furniture and suitcases. There is also a cellar in the basement which comes along with the property. Requested price: € 1,250,000. Selling to referenced individuals. For more information and visits, please contact

Bonnie Rose-Zanni (American) at Immobiliare Zanni Real Estate (+39) 347 / 4009753. S. PAOLO GARBATELLA APT 72 SQM WITH PRIVATE TERRACE 50 SQM. Building dated 1957, quiet street, residential area. Functional and bright ground floor apartment, high ceilings, completely restored in 2010. Security door, central heating, A/C. Energy class G. 2 double bedrooms, fully furnished kitchen with American bar. Bathroom w/ shower. Numerous and optimized storage spaces. Private square terrace: peaceful, pleasant with an open view to the west. Close to all utilities and strategically located: 5 min walk to S. Paolo metro station and close to Università Roma III. Price: €355,000 Expenses: €100 month, heating included. If interested, please contact Ms Nepveu at 334 / 6678 476 or 347 / 2264 981. Private sale. andv72@ gmail.com.

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 July 2016 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | July 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it