Wanted in Rome - March 2017 by Wanted in Rome

march 2017 â&#x201A;Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 3

contents

titolo

no. 3 / MARCH 2017 editorials

INTERVIEW WITH CARLO FUORTES Mary Wilsey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 LAGO FUCINO: FROM EMPERORS TO EARTHQUAKES Philip Biss. . . 6 ROME: A TIME TRAVELLER’S GUIDE Mike Dilien. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 CHILDREN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 sport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 religion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 ST PATRICK’S DAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Wanted in rome junior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 5 April and 3 May. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 26 March (for 5 April) and 23 April (for 3 May). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Out of the Shadows, by Michelle Rogers (2000) Commissioned by Queen’s Gender Initiative, for the Queen’s University Belfast Collection. Rogers is exhibiting in The Triangle Project at Sala 1 in Rome, see page 20 for details. www.michellerogers.com. Cover to mark International Women’s Day on 8 March. Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 27/02/2017

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

35 March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

opera

Mary Wilsey

INTERVIEW WITH CARLO FUORTES The sovrintendente of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma reveals that as many under-35s as over-60s are now going to the opera Wanted in Rome. Things have changed considerably since you became the sovrintendente of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma three years ago. Could you tell us what achievement makes you most proud? Carlo Fuortes. What pleases me most is the new public we have managed to attract. Our research shows that 40 per cent of our audiences have been with us for less than two years. Thirty per cent are now under 35 years old, which is the same percentage as those over 60. Wanted in Rome. How do you manage to attract both an older and a younger audience? Carlo Fuortes. With a certain amount of intelligent programming – and of course it is not true that the older generation is necessarily more conservative than the younger in its taste. For instance the production of Così fan tutte in January, which was a very contemporary interpretation of Mozart’s opera, was a success with all

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

Carlo Fuortes has been at the helm of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma since December 2013.

opera ages. We have been able to attract new and younger audiences with new and exciting programming. Wanted in Rome. There has been a resurgence of interest in opera worldwide in the last ten to 15 years. Could you explain why you think this is? Carlo Fuortes. It is partly because there is so much more that can be done with opera these days. There is a whole new multimedia language that was not available before. This includes the use of video and digital media which makes for completely different productions. The young are attracted by a number of things but in particular by the multimedia aspects of the opera. There’s so much variety now. In addition to the new multimedia language, the young appreciate the sheer physicality of opera. In this age of internet and virtual media they like live theatre and the direct impact with the people on stage. It is also important to have new programming, a variety of works and directors of international standing. Wanted in Rome. Once conductors and singers were the stars of the opera. Now it seems that the directors are becoming more and more important. Would you comment on this? Carlo Fuortes. Yes – directors have become increasingly important. Now they are almost as important as the music itself. Once one went to the opera for the singers but now the direction is almost as important. Wanted in Rome. Have the singers been able to rise to this change? Carlo Fuortes. Oh yes, absolutely. They’re particularly open to working with directors and with new ideas. Wanted in Rome. What did you feel about the sudden resignation of Ricca-

In May Teatro dell’Opera di Roma presents Lulu by Berg, directed by William Kentridge.

rdo Muti as musical director of Rome’s opera a few years ago? Carlo Fuortes. It was certainly a blow for the theatre, but there is no point in looking backwards. We have new conductors and we are especially happy to have Daniele Gatti conducting the opening operas of each season for the next three years exclusively for Teatro dell’Opera. The debut of Speranza Scappucci conducting Così fan tutte was also a special occasion. She was born in Rome and she is already well known for her work abroad, but this was her first time conducting in her home town. Wanted in Rome. What role does the opera house play within the city; for instance how would you compare it with the role of La Scala in Milan? Carlo Fuortes. The situation is very different in the two cities for many reasons. In Rome the opera is just one of many cultural resources. It has a more difficult role than La Scala in Milan because there are so many more attractions in Rome to compete with the opera. I spent 13 years at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, for instance,

and I always thought that the role of Teatro dell’Opera was underrated and that there was much more that it could do. We are proving that now because in the last two years we have managed to increase ticket sales from around €7.5 million a year to just under €12 million. I should also point out that this increase has been during a difficult economic moment. Wanted in Rome. How are the relations between the city and the Teatro dell’Opera? Carlo Fuortes. I would say they are very good. We have just had the confirmation of important financing from the city, €15 million for 2017, which is only slightly less than last year. Our relations with the mayor and the deputy mayor, who are president and vice president of the managing board, are very good. Wanted in Rome. How much do tourists contribute to sales? Carlo Fuortes. Tourists make up about 15-20 per cent of the audience at Teatro Costanzi, the city’s opera house. At the Baths of Caracalla, where we hold the summer season, tourists March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

opera account for about a half. Over the last two years they have increased at both locations by about 20 per cent. Wanted in Rome. How do you manage to attract foreign audiences? Carlo Fuortes. The production of the Valentino-sponsored La Traviata directed by Sofia Coppola last year was an enormous attraction and a success with our foreign audience. We now have surtitles in English, which is also a help, and of course internet is an invaluable way of boosting our international image. Co-productions with foreign opera companies, as well as internationally known directors, also promote our name abroad. We are working with opera houses in Amsterdam, Barcelona, London, New York and Paris. Sharing productions with

prestigious foreign opera companies also helps to keep the costs down. Wanted in Rome. What does this year’s Caracalla season have in store? Carlo Fuortes. The new opera this year is Carmen, conducted by Jesús Lopez Cobos and directed by Valentina Carrasco. The other two operas are last year’s Nabucco and Pier Luigi Pizzi’s Tosca. There will be a concert by Luigi Einaudi 13-24 June, and ballet star Roberto Bolle returns with his friends for another year. We are also working on a number of other engagements. Wanted in Rome. What would you say are the best productions this season? Carlo Fuortes. That’s impossible to

say; it’s rather like asking which is your favourite child. They are all exciting. There was the magnificent opening of the season with Tristan und Isolde conducted by Daniele Gatti. Graham Vick ‘s modern interpretation of Mozart’s Così fan tutte has caused great interest. Then there’s a new interpretation of Il Trovatore in March and of course Lulu in May, directed by William Kentridge in a co-production with the Met, the English National Opera and the Amsterdam National Opera. Even the repeat productions need to be of a high standard. Later this year we have last season’s Tosca directed by Alessandro Talevi (14-24 October) and the repeat of La Traviata (29 October-4 November), the Valentino-sponsored opera directed by Sofia Coppola. It is essential that every opera should be excellent in some special way.

A NIGHT AT THE OPERA There was a buzz around Rome’s opera house – half-way between the ministry of the interior and Stazione Termini – more like that of a crowd going to a pop concert or a football match. It felt as if this was the most fashionable place in town. The numbers were doubly surprising because the same night Antonio Pappano, musical director of S. Cecilia, was conducting the internationally popular mezzo-soprano Cecilia Bartoli at the Auditorium Parco della Musica in a special programme to celebrate Mozart’s birthday. Mozart was also playing at the 2,000-seater Teatro Costanzi, the home of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, that night. A very contemporary rendering of Così fan tutte was on stage, conducted by another attraction, Rome-born Speranza Scappucci who is making her way fast up the international ratings and who was conducting for the first time in her home city. To add icing to the the cake, Graham Vick was the director. The impressive tiers of boxes on either side of the theatre were full, the stalls were packed, and the only empty space seemed to be the ornate and regal presidential box. There were well-groomed elderly couples, groups of friends, single men and women, informally dressed intellectual-looking types, keen opera buffs, students, a group of men in wheel-chairs, Japanese, Dutch and German-speakers and even a handful of very young children. For those who know Mozart’s work well, the evening must have come as a bit of a gasp. Flowing robes and elegant scenery were replaced by a sort of own-choice wardrobe of miniskirts, shorts and sneakers. The sets were reduced to white walls on which the five characters rapidly drew their own basic scenery, such as simple, child-like images of flowers for the garden. There was an ultra-modern projection of another clever child-like sketch of a battleship taking the lovers Fernando and Guglielmo off to war. Despina pushed an airport-type cleaning trolley around the stage as she handed out advice to the sisters Dorabella and Fiordiligi. And the jokey bachelor Don Alfonso dispensed his philosophy about women as any modern man might scoff at their fickleness. Entrances and exits were marked by the quick turn-about of a classroom whiteboard. But most of all it felt just as Mozart must have conceived his third and last opera: fun, fast and tongue-in-cheek. Did the music suffer from all the action? Occasionally the singing seemed crowded out by the acting, but Scappucci managed to get just the right balance for the orchestra (her own playing of the harpsichord to accompany the recitatives was masterful and seemingly effortless), and the singing in the second act made up for any gaps there might have been in the first when the audience was still distracted by the innovative staging.

March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

HISTORY

Philip Biss

LAGO FUCINO: FROM EMPERORS TO EARTHQUAKES The draining of Lake Fucino was first undertaken by the Romans but it was never entirely successful until the 19th century

ake Fucino was once the third largest lake in Italy. Just east of Avezzano, about 600 m high in the Marsica area of the Abruzzo mountains, it was fed by the melting snows and springs of the surrounding mountains and covered some 150 sqm. Estimates of the seasonal change in water level suggest it fell as much as 12m, leaving large areas of mud exposed in the process. It was trapped there, separated by mountains from the Liri valley to the south and the Peligna valley to the east, and by rising land near the headwaters of the Turano and Salto rivers to the north-west. To the north lay the uplands of Abruzzo, now with the modern ski resorts of Ovindoli and Campo Felice. The muddy shores of the lake were always a haven for snakes, and although it has long been drained, a connection with snakes and the art of snake charming still continues. Every year on 1 May, the feast-day of S.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

S. Domenica di Sora still charms the snakes on 1 May at Cocullo.

HISTORY

The Claudio-Torlonia emissary in Borgo Incile, Avezzano.

Domenico di Sora, patron saint of the small village of Cocullo, his statue is carried from the church through the streets at noon amid crowds of fascinated bystanders who gaze transfixed at the live snakes entwined around the figure of the saint. He is credited with ridding Marsica of snakes in the 11th century. Julius Caesar was the first who wanted to drain the lake and take advantage of the fertile surrounding land, but he was killed before his ambitious plans could be realised. The project was brought to life again by the emperor Claudius in AD 41. The intention was to control the level of the lake, which was subject to serious seasonal flooding, but not drain it completely, out of respect for its inhabitant, the god Fucino. Although probably easier, it was considered inadvisable to attempt to drain the lake northwards to the valleys of the Turano and Salto rivers since its waters would have eventually reached the Tiber and increased the flood risk for Rome. The alternative was the Liri valley leading south-west, eventually reaching the Mediterranean more safely via the Liri and then the Garigliano rivers, exiting into the sea near Minturno, well south of the Roman capital.

According to Roman biographer and writer Suetonius, the work of digging the approach canals and the five kilometres tunnel through the solid rock of Mount Salviano into the upper Liri valley took 11 years and involved 30,000 slaves. The debris from the excavations had to be hoisted to the surface through some 40 vertical shafts dug into the tunnel. One assumes it was prestige that Claudius had in mind when building the tunnel rather than the agricultural benefit. Roman emperors enjoyed showing off their power not only by staging gladiatorial events but also by naumachiae or mock sea battles, staged for entertainment between competing fleets of galleys, often on lakes and reservoirs. In 52 AD, to celebrate the impending opening of his prestigious drainage project, Claudius arranged one of the largest naumachiae ever seen. Roman historian Tacitus relates that there were two fleets of 25 vessels each consisting of galleys with three or four banks of oars and 19,000 prisoners selected to fight to the death in the naval battle. The lake was surrounded by marines and praetorian soldiers on rafts armed with catapults and stonehurling engines to prevent any attempt at escape. After a confusing start the

fighting was bloody but, again according to Tacitus, Claudius was so pleased with the outcome that he pardoned those who survived. The spectacle over, the emperorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s party, including the empress Agrippina and her son, the 15 year-old future emperor Nero, moved nearer the entrance to the newly excavated tunnel for a banquet and to watch the breaching of the last section of the long canal which would carry the water into the tunnel. According to Tacitus it became apparent that the canal to the mouth of the tunnel was not deep enough and it would have to be excavated further to allow the water to enter. Consequently, a second attempt had to be organised some time later. But another yet more embarrassing disaster struck: the mouth of the tunnel was too narrow to accommodate the water that now gushed from the lake. As it splurged back out again Claudius and his guests had to run for their lives. A narrow escape for the emperor, but the drainage system started to work. However when the level of water began to fall too slowly it became obvious that the tunnelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gradient was not sufficient to allow the lake to drain as intended. During the next century the canal system was deepened and widened twice under Trajan and his successor Hadrian. Then as the result of an earthquake at the beginning of the sixth century the exit canal from the lake fell below the tunnel entrance so that the drainage system could no longer work effectively. It was not until the late 19th century before a further attempt was made on draining Lago Fucino. A consortium headed by Prince Alessandro Torlonia undertook to reclaim the whole area in exchange for the resulting land. Work started in 1862 to enlarge the Claudian tunnel to three times its original size. However, as the cost increased members of the consortium withdrew their March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

HISTORY investments, leaving the prince to face the bills alone. Despite his family’s wealth, the escalating costs of the project placed Prince Alessandro Torlonia under financial stress. He was, however, fortunate and the works carried out by Swiss engineer Jean François Mayor de Montricher employing over 3,000 workers were successful. By 1877 the lake was completely drained, leaving Torlonia the owner of some 65,000 fertile hectares, part of which he farmed directly, part of which he rented out to a few other wealthy landowners, with the rest parcelled out into smallholdings divided between thousands of poor sharecroppers. The small tenant farmers, most of whom cultivated less than three hectares, were never happy. The following century saw a series of sharecropper protests against the Torlonias – a problem that was not resolved until the mid-20th century after two men were killed in a violent protest in 1950. The area was further affected by the devastating Avezzano earthquake of 1915 – some claim that its effects were magnified by the draining of the lake – as well as decades of emigration of the poor farmers to the United States and Argentina. The unwise investment policies of the Torlonia family – high rents, high interest rates on loans from their Banca

An 1875 map of Lago Fucino.

the words of Ignazio Silone’s landmark book Fontamara published in 1933: «In capo a tutti c’è Dio, padrone del cielo. Questo ognuno lo sa. Poi viene il principe Torlonia, padrone della terra. Poi vengono le guardie del principe. Poi vengono i cani delle guardie del principe. Poi, nulla. Poi, ancora nulla. Poi, ancora nulla. Poi vengono i cafoni. E si può dire ch’è finito.»

del Fucino (founded in the 1920s), failure to invest in necessary infrastructure such as roads, as well as the rock-bottom prices paid by the Torlonia-owned zuccherificio for the farmers’ main crop, sugar beet – were the cause of distress and hardship. The most damaging description of the Torlonias is best summed up in

“At the top of everything there is God, the boss of heaven. Everybody knows that. Then there’s the Prince of Torlonia, the boss on earth. Then there are the prince’s guards. Then there are the prince’s guards’ dogs. Then there’s nothing. Then nothing again. Then nothing again. Then there are the yokels. And you could say that’s all.”

The drained lake resulted in a patchwork quilt of 65,000 hectares of fertile farmland.

Modern telecommunications now beam out from the flatlands of the Fucino basin. March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

TRAVEL

Mike Dilien

ROME: A TIME TRAVELLER’S GUIDE In the footsteps of Rome’s 18-century Grand Tourists

“E

xcellent choice, sir. That’s a good travel guide,” said the bookseller about the well-thumbed, dusty volume I had picked out of a box in Piazza della Repubblica. The Grand Tour. Containing an Exact Description of most of the Cities, Towns and Remarkable Places. Off I went: in the footsteps of my distinguished countrymen, I was to explore the eternal city, the high point of every Grand Tour. To tell you the truth, I should have read this book before arriving in Rome. On page 64, the author – writing in 1749 – warned: “When a traveller comes to Rome, he is immediately surrounded by a multitude of lacqueys who come to offer their service, but he should be cautious how he trusts them, for they are generally sad fellows.” Yet, whereas the guide covered the entire peninsula and discussed the perils of horse-drawn travel on the continent, I had crossed the Alps on a direct flight from Heathrow. And even when “those that do not carry a complete bed with them ought at least to make a provision of a light quilt, a pillow, a coverlet, and two very fine bed-cloths,” I only had a wheeled suitcase.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

The 16th-century Palazzo Borghese houses the embassy of Spain to Italy.

How foolish of me for having booked just two nights. For “to obtain even a hasty glimpse of the sights of Rome,” the author commanded, “a stay of at least 14-16 days in the eternal city is necessary.” To make things worse, I was staying near Termini, whereas “on the slope of the Pincio, its central point being the Piazza di Spagna,” lay the region “known

for ages as the Strangers’ (or foreigners, from stranieri) Quarter.” I didn’t know where to start when I first came to Rome. Apparently, according to the 1749 guide book, Rome’s palaces were “superior in number and magnificence to those of any other place in the known world” and 12 of them – each with a splendid art gallery – worth visiting.

TRAVEL After unpacking, I rushed to Palazzo Borghese, “one of the finest in Rome”, said the guide book. The palazzo, however, turned out to be an embassy. I then walked to Palazzo Chigi, but it appeared the prime minister had selected this palace as his government offices. After I had strolled to, and stumbled up the hill to Palazzo del Quirinale, I was facing armed guards outside the president’s official residence. I considered switching to Rome’s famous ruins. The guide book, however, advised being equipped with “maps, measures, prospective glasses, a mariner’s compass and quadrant” to be able “to take the dimensions of things.” Moreover: “’Tis requisite to have a skilful antiquarian, which saves a person a great deal of trouble by directing him to the several remains of antiquity that are particularly worthy of a traveller’s notice. These antiquarians are ridiculously distinguished by the name of Ciceroni.” Apparently, ciceroni were scholarly tour guides in several disciplines who also published volumes on ancient art. One of them even became the pope’s prefect of antiquities. “Excuse me,” I asked a young lad who was handing out flyers. “Do you guide tours?” “No, mate. Pub crawling. Wanna try?” he asked before handing me a flyer. Down the road, an Indian wearing a red fleece jacket stood next to an equally red double-decker. “Excuse me, do you guide tours?”

Palazzo Chigi houses the government offices of the Italian prime minister.

“Yes, we do. Rome in 100 Minutes. You just hop on and off.” “Hop on?” “And off, yes. Maybe you prefer Eating Rome?” he asked and read out: “a tour that gives people a taste of Rome they won’t soon forget by exposing them to real food, people and neighbourhoods. No? Maybe the Pope, Pizza & Prosecco tour?” I then called a couple of tour guides who advertised on the internet. The first was an American would-be writer who proposed Hemingway’s Rome; the second, a gap year student from Durham, told me the best way to get to know her adopted city was to observe the natives from a terrace sipping lattes. Finally, I considered hiring a native bear-leader. I could choose between Matteo, a Muay Thai devotee; Amandio,

Over the centuries the 1,200-room Palazzo del Quirinale has been home to 30 popes, four kings of Italy and, since the 1940s, 12 presidents of the Italian republic.

a Brazilian-born actor who loved biking; and Andrea, who said he knew historical facts and preferred beer to wine. On the second day, I found out that the Borghese collection was not in the Palazzo Borghese, but in the Villa Borghese. Why did my guide book not mention this despite claiming it was “carefully revised on the spot to the latest period”? When I wanted to visit the villa, I was told I had to make a reservation. So I spent the morning in the Vatican admiring the Belvedere courtyard. A steady flood of visitors shuffled by like a pack of commuters in Piccadilly Circus. None of them looked at the statues that my guide highly recommended. I asked one of them, carrying one of these cheap, bright guide books, where they were heading. She answered they were going to look at the ceiling of a chapel. This must have been the chapel which, according to my guide book, should only be admired for its structure.* In the afternoon, I finally visited the Villa Borghese gallery. I had been preparing a lifetime for this. For years I had been visiting the National Gallery to copy ancient sculptures. In the Apollo and Daphne room in Villa Borghese, I waited until I could position myself so as to have the right angle. I took a pencil and a sheet of paper and started to draw March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

TRAVEL Bernini’s masterpiece. I was to capture a living soul transforming into a tree. But just as I had finished the difficult lower part and was about to tackle Apollo’s leg, a guard told me I had to leave: I had used my two hours of visiting time. By then I had had my share of highbrow and felt ready to descend to plebeian Rome. I quite fancied Trastevere, “now inhabited almost exclusively by the working classes, among whom many well-built and handsome persons of both sexes will be observed.” But it appeared the working classes were having drinks at €8. I remembered the pub crawl flyer and looked for “the favourite haunts of the country-people” which were “in front of the Pantheon […] and the market place of the Campo di Fiore.” In Campo de’ Fiori, foreigners were consuming hectolitres of alcohol. “An idea prevails that full living and a liberal allowance of wine are necessary to preserve health…” according to the London-published guide book. Meanwhile, taciturn Italians were observing tourists happy to follow this invitation to imbibe. “Natives have a great contempt and aversion for foreigners whom they flightingly call Oltramontani.” Fortunately “we must except the English to whom they shew much greater marks of respect than to other nations.” On the last day of my sojourn, it was time to buy a souvenir. I walked along Via del Corso which the guide book compared to Bond Street, “Europe’s most elegant street and probably the most beautiful street in the universe.” At the franchise stores with their plastic logos and blaring pop music I could choose from “I love Rome” T-shirts, key rings in the shape of Italy and an apron showing David in all his splendour. The guide book listed sculptors, painters and goldsmiths. I explored the streets where they had their ateliers. Suddenly, in an alley, I bumped into a young couple. The man showed me the picture of a charming Italian village.

“€10, mister” he said. “This is handmade by a craftsman from our village, il paese, in the south.” “€10? That’s a bit expensive, isn’t it?” “Look how authentic it is.” The image looked faded and weathered by time. “€8?” “Done.” In Piazza del Popolo I looked at the back of the image. In digital print it said “Roma Sparita. Via della Greca presso la Bocca della Verità. Cartolina no. 35. Editore: Museo di Roma. Printed in Singapore.” I had run through all options bar one: an authentic Batoni. In his atelier on 25 Via Bocca di Leone, Master

Bernini’s Daphne and Apollo sculpture at Galleria Borghese.

Batoni portrayed his subjects stylishly dressed and posing among the authentic relics they had acquired in Rome. A Batoni painting above the fireplace was the ultimate proof of one’s Grand Tour to family and friends. Well, 25 Via Bocca di Leone turned out to be a boutique. So I returned to the Colosseum and took a selfie wearing my AS Roma T-shirt and holding a gelato. You reckon posting it on Facebook will testify to my edifying travel?

* In those days the Belvedere was thought of more highly than the frescoes in the Sistine Chapel, which was reserved mainly for great ceremonies of the Church, especially throughout Holy Week.

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Monitor

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com. PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net. Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

EXHIBITIONS GEORG BASELITZ: GLI EROI 4 March-18 June This exhibition displays the Heroes cycle of paintings by Georg Baselitz, one of Europe’s most important contemporary artists, 50 years after he created the series aged 27. Baselitz’s unorthodox heroes are fragile, vulnerable, damaged, and include war-weary soldiers and struggling artists trying to find their place in post-war Germany. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it. GIOVANNI BOLDINI 4 March-16 July This retrospective exhibition dedicated to Giovanni Boldini comprises more than 250 works by the Ferrara artist, on loan from major museums and private collections around the world. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), tel. 068715111, www.ilvittoriano.com. THE TRIANGLE PROJECT 21 Feb-15 March Sala 1 presents an exhibition project with works by Vanessa M. Palomba, creator of the show, Michelle Rogers and Ayesha Sultana. The three artists commemorate the victims of New York’s Triangle Shirtwaist Factory when a fire in 1911 gutted the building killing 146 people who were locked inside, mainly Russian, Irish and Italian

Georg Baselitz at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Blocked Painter. Photo Archiv Sammlung Ströher.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

women; and the victims of the 2013 collapse of the Rana Plaza Factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, which led to the deaths of 1,137 textile workers, predominantly women, who produced clothing for well-known western brands. Both tragedies led to the respective countries introducing reforms to prevent similar disasters from happening again. Palomba, from the UK, and Rogers, from Ireland, are based in Rome, while Sultana is based in Dhaka. See cover by Rogers. Sala 1, Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. DANIELE DA VOLTERRA: I DIPINTI D’ELCI 17 Feb-7 May Galleria Corsini showcases two paintings by Daniele da Volterra (15091566), the Mannerist Italian artist who is best known for painting vestments and fig-leaves over genitals in Michelangelo’s Last Judgement fresco in the Sistine Chapel. The two works on display – Elijah in the desert and Madonna with Child, Sts Giovannino and Barbara – were painted in Rome in the mid16th century and are rarely shown to the public. Galleria Corsini is one of the few Rome museums open on Mondays. Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. PLEASE COME BACK: IL MONDO COME PRIGIONE? 9 Feb-21 May 26 artists and over 50 works present “prison” as a metaphor for the contemporary world and the contemporary world as a metaphor for prison. It explores how we are being increasingly manipulated by modern technology. The exhibition’s artists include Claire Fontaine, Jenny Holzer, AES+F, Chen Chieh-Jen, and Gianfranco Baruchello. There is also a parallel programme of talks and workshops in which the public can interact with artists and prisoners. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. HOMMAGE 9 Feb-18 March A group show by well-known Italian and foreign artists Isabella Ducrot, Angelo Titonel, Leila Vismeh, Janine von Thüngen and Gaetano Zampogna. The exhibition is centred around six works (five paintings and a sculpture) which pay tribute to the Austrian composer Arnold Schoenberg and the artists Pablo Picasso, Edward Hopper, Constantin Brancusi and Francis Bacon. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

GUIDO STRAZZA: RICERCARE 7 Feb-26 March The Galleria Nazionale shows works by the celebrated 94-year-old Italian artist Guido Strazza. The exhibition provides a comprehensive insight into the lengthy career of the Rome-based artist who was part of the Italian Futurist movement in the 1940s. The works on display include 56 paintings, three sculptures, 42 drawings and 31 etchings, the majority of which will be donated to the gallery’s permanent collection after the show. See page 22 for illustration. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com. BOUNDARY ISSUES 2 Feb-18 March 1/9unosunove presents a group show examining the concept of boundaries in the work of five artists, born between 1950 and 1965, who have pushed the limits of pictorial minimalism. Three of the participating artists are Italian: Maria Morganti, Paolo Parisi and Marco Tirelli; while Simon Callery is from the UK and Gerwald Rockenschaub from Austria. 1/9unosunove, Via degli Specchi 20, www.unosunove.com. EL GRECO’S ANNUNCIATION 24 Jan-17 April The Capitoline Museums shows The Annunciation by El Greco (1541-1614), as part of an art exchange programme with Madrid’s Thyssen Bornemisza Museum. Considered one of the artist’s most spectacular works, The Annunciation was created originally as an altarpiece, flanked on either side

Giovanni Boldini exhibition at the Vittoriano. Il cappellino azzurro.

by two panels, one of which is now in Romania’s national art museum in Bucharest, the other at the Museo del Prado in Madrid. Despite having lived in Rome roughly between 1570 and 1576, there are precious few El Greco works in Italy. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. LEONARDO E IL VOLO 21 Jan-17 April Geometric figures, mechanical designs, architectural plans: Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex on the Flight of Birds, written in his own hand, is the centrepiece of this exhibition which coincides with the 500th anniversary of the death of the Renaissance genius. See page 21. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. ARCHITETTURA INVISIBILE 19 Jan-26 March In 1966-67, a small group of young Italian architects, graduates of the University of Florence, founded a series of collectives called ‘groups’ rather than ‘practices’, to emphasise a malaise towards a purely professional, commercial understanding of the architect’s work. Through their works encompassing images and statements as well as films, happenings and performances, the Italian groups – who became known as ‘the radicals’ – came to question the very conditions of living in the ‘developed’ world, building upon the works and ideas of other young architects in Japan, Great Britain, Austria. Architettura invisibile, curated by Rita Elvira Adamo, a young Italian architecture historian who studied in London, examines the works and ideas of the 1960s-1970s Japanese and Italian avant-garde groups, juxtaposing them with the works of current practices from Italy and Japan. Consisting of three thematic areas: environment, technology and inhabitation, the exhibition presents a wealth of materials – drawings, collages, prints, objects, posters, photographs, magazines, documents – by Kenzo Tange, Arata Isozaki, the Metabolists (Kiyonori Kikutake, Kisho Kurokawa, Fumihiko Maki, Otaka Masato), and the Florentine ‘radicals’ Superstudio, Archizoom, and UFO, conveying the sense of urgency, daring and discovery that characterized their activities from 1966 to the late 1970s. The works and documents of the historic Japanese and Italian groups on display in the rooms on the first floor of the museum, are complemented by drawings and models of works by a dozen contemporary practices from the two countries (among them the Italians IaN+, 2A+P/A, Orizzontale, and the Japanese Sou Fujimoto, Kentaro Yamazaki, Alphaville)

Please Come Back: The World as Prison exhibition at MAXXI. People Pushing by Chen Chien-Jen.

shown in a large inflatable structure on the museum terrace. Jacopo Benci Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www. museocarlobilotti.it.

STILL SHOWING GIORGIO GRIFFA 21 Feb-29 April Galleria Lorcan O’Neill shows new and historic works by Italian abstract painter Giorgio Griffa, viewed as one of the most radical avant-garde artists working in Italy today. Born in Turin in 1936, Griffa participated in the Venice Biennale in 1978 and 1980, and has held exhibitions at prestigious galleries throughout Europe. Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com. YOSUKE UENO: MICRO COSMOS 18 Feb-18 March Leading Japanese Pop Surrealist Yosuke Ueno presents his fairytale universe of psychedelic landscapes, plants

El Greco’s Annunciation on display at the Capitoline Museums.

Hommage exhibition at MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea. Biglietteria by Angelo Titonel. March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Da Vinciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Codex on the Flight of Birds is on display in Rome for the first time at the Capitoline Museums.

and animals. The Dorothy Circus Gallery specialises in international popsurrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

UFO, Paramount lamp, 1969/2016 (courtesy Lapo Binazzi). See Architettura Invisibile page 21.

WALLED GARDENS IN AN INSANE EDEN 10 Feb-25 March Marcelle Joseph curates an exhibition which takes its cue from the prevailing mood across Europe after a recent overthrow of political certainties. The show features the artwork of seven London-based artists brought to Rome, many for the first time. The participating artists are Rebecca Ackroyd, Gabriella Boyd, Rhys Coren, Kira

Freije, Marie Jacotey, Florence Peake and Zadie Xa. Z20 Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. DNA: IL GRANDE LIBRO DELLA VITA DA MENDEL ALLA GENOMICA 10 Feb-18 June Exhibition dedicated to Gregor Mendel, the scientist, Augustinian friar and misunderstood genius whose groundbreaking genetic discoveries were not recognised until the turn of the 20th century, more than three decades after his death. Palazzo delle Esposizioni 194, Via Nazionale, www.palazzoesposizioni.it. GIUSEPPE PENONE: EQUIVALENZE 27 Jan-15 April The Gagosian holds an exhibition of work by Giuseppe Penone, a renowned Italian sculptor based between Turin and Paris. Associated with the Arte Povera movement, Penone is known for his works that engage with poetry, nature and time, using materials ranging from terracotta to iron. The exhibition coincides with the installation of a giant Penone sculpture at the Fendi headquarters in Romeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s EUR district. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian. com.

Guido Strazza exhibition at the Galleria Nazionale. Grande aura. Photo Silvio Scafoletti. See page 20.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

FRANCESCO DEL DRAGO: PARLARE CON IL COLORE 19 Jan-26 March Well-known contemporary Roman artist Pietro Ruffo curates this retrospective dedicated to the work of fel-

low Roman artist Francesco del Drago (1920-2011). The exhibition pays particular attention to the intricate colour studies created by the abstract artist whose work influenced younger generations in the sphere of graphic design, advertising and film. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

Il Museo universale. Dal sogno di Napoleone a Canova exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale. Portrait of Pope Leone X by Raphael.

GIOVANNI PRINI: IL POTERE DEL SENTIMENTO 21 Dec-26 March Rome’s municipal modern art gallery presents an exhibition showing the art of Giovanni Prini (1877-1958) featuring marble and bronze sculptures, paintings, drawings, ceramics, furniture and toys. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. IL MUSEO UNIVERSALE: DAL SOGNO DI NAPOLEONE A CANOVA 16 Dec-12 March Exhibition highlighting the 200th anniversary of the 1816 repatriation of Italian cultural heritage looted by Napoleon in 1796. The exhibition displays a range of Italian masterpieces of art and archaeology that were plundered from Italy, including works by Carracci, Guercino, Reni and Vecellio. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. CONVERSATION PIECE: PART 3 16 Dec-2 April The third installment in the exhibition cycle Conversation Piece which charts the presence of Italian and foreign artists currently living in Rome, or with an attachment to the city, focusing in particular on the artistic contribution made by Rome’s foreign academies and cultural institutes. La Fondazione Memmo Arte Contemporanea, Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Giovanni Prini: Il Potere del Sentimento exhibition at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale. Birilli della ditta by Prini.

LETIZIA BATTAGLIA: JUST FOR PASSION 24 Nov-17 April More than 200 photographs, contact sheets and vintage prints from the archive of Letizia Battaglia, known to many as the “Photographer of the Mafia.” The exhibition, which testifies to “40 years of Italian life and society” according to MAXXI, also includes magazines, publications, interviews and film footage relating to the celebrated Italian photographer. MAXXI Museo March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ROME’S ALTERNATIVE METRO MAPS Conversation Piece: Part Three exhibition at Fondazione Memmo Arte Contemporanea. Now We Look To The Future by British artist Jonathan Baldock. See page 23

Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI 30 Nov-8 May Major exhibition dedicated to the Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi, today considered one of the most accomplished painters in the generation following that of Caravaggio. The exhibition spans from 1610 to 1652, examining Gentileschi’s career in Florence, Rome, Venice and finally Naples where she worked until her death. Museo di Roma a Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

A series of new subway-style maps showing Rome’s museums, theatres and police stations in their proximity to the city’s metro stations has been released recently on social media. The maps are produced by Giulia sotto la metro (GSM), a website containing stories and photographs relating to Rome’s metro network, in collaboration with the Scuola Internazionale di Teatro all’Improvviso (SITI). Wanted in Rome put some questions to the people behind the GSM website and subway maps – MariaBeatrice Alonzi and Giulia Soi – beginning with asking how the idea came about. MariaBeatrice and Giulia: From the outset, one year ago, we wanted GSM to become the symbol of Rome residents who, every morning, fight against the capital’s public transport issues on their way to work but who do not just want to blame the system and complain. We prefer to play down transport problems with a joke or a good laugh, rather than increase general dissatisfaction. So we asked SITI, which was co-founded by MariaBeatrice, to collaborate for that purpose. Is there a team behind the creation and promotion of your maps? Yes. MariaBeatrice is the creative producer, she manages the GSM project, the marketing and strategic decisions and coordinates promotion and research. She is the one who had the idea in the first place after seeing some status updates on Giulia’s personal Facebook profile. Giulia is the author of the narratives, she writes all GSM’s stories. MariaBeatrice, from the start, wanted Giulia to be a character, not a real person but the work of a team. Cristina “Kanzeon” Schiavoni was chosen to illustrate the stories and create the comic strips, Veronica Giuffrè is editor, and Giuliano Pace works under MariaBeatrice’s specifics to create the graphics. Have your maps been produced with the support of the city administration or any other official agency? We are currently working with the social media office of Roma Capitale for a whole new map while our newly-released police station map, for example, involved us working with the national police department.

Judith and her maidservant by Artemisia Gentileschi at Palazzo Braschi.

cont page 26

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

What maps do you plan to create in the future, and where is the best place to view them online or obtain them in print? We don’t want to spoil the surprise for your readers but we can say that our new maps are going to be very useful to mums and dads and students and that you can find all the maps on our Facebook page, Giulia sotto la metro. If you want to print any of them just email us at info@giuliasottolametro.com and we will send you highdefinition maps files ready to print. www.giuliasottolametro.com. Andy Devane

MACRO VIA NIZZA

Giardino by Francesca Leone.

DANIELE LOMBARDI: ASCOLTO VISIVO 3 Feb-26 March Exhibition of the composer, pianist and visual artist Daniele Lombardi whose works on display include a series of sound installations, musical manuscripts and large-scale paintings. FRANCESCA LEONE: GIARDINO 3 Feb-26 March Interactive installation comprising 18 aluminium grilles and their random contents such as cigarette butts, plastic, paper, keys and coins, which come from the “unconscious contribution of hundreds of people” according to the artist Francesca Leone. See picture above. NANNI BALESTRINI: LA TEMPESTA PERFETTA 3 Feb-17 April Artist Nanni Balestrini stages a “concept exhibition” inspired by The Tempest painting by Renaissance master Giorgione to examine contemporary cultural, social, psychological and economic issues.

MACRO TESTACCIO

PERCORSO TATTILE SENSORIALE 3 Feb-4 June A multi-sensory room provides tactile-sensory pathways that provide an enhanced artistic experience for people with various disabilities.

LUCA PADRONI: I VALORI PERSONALI 31 Jan-26 March This Roman artist uses a variety of techniques to paint unexpected subject matter, juxtaposing combinations of people and places.

ANISH KAPOOR 17 Dec-17 April Large-scale works by British-Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor, considered one of the most significant artists on the contemporary international art scene. Kapoor won the Turner Prize in 1991 and in 2013 received a knighthood for services to visual arts.

LI CHEVALIER: TRAJECTORY OF DESIRE 27 Jan-26 March French-based Chinese artist Li Chevalier (pictured above) presents presents a monumental installation comprising violins and 30 experimental ink paintings.

Li Chevalier in her studio.

ARTE E POLITICA: OPERE DALLA COLLEZIONE #4 21 Oct-10 May Series of works with political and social themes, spanning from the demolition paintings by Roman artist Mario Mafai in the 1930s to more recent works.

RAFAEL Y. HERMAN: THE NIGHT ILLUMINATES THE NIGHT 25 Jan-26 March Exhibition by Israeli artist Rafael Y. Herman who is known for his ground-breaking photography of moonlit night scenes which appear to have been taken in daylight, without the use of electronic or digital manipulation.

MACRO, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608.

MACRO Testaccio, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, Piazza O. Giustiani, tel. 060608.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

CLASSICAL ROME For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com. Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA IL PIANOFORTE NEL JAZZ 11 Dec-5 March The subtitle of these concerts is Da Scott Joplin a Keith Jarrett. In this fourpart series on the theme of the piano in jazz the final concert Il jazz di oggi e I suoi pianisti is on 5 March. Sala Casella, Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana. org.

tury Vienna. Imago Sonora is a group of 12 young musicians formed in 2013. Sala Affreschi della Filarmonica Romana, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org. LUCCHESINI and CAPPELLETTO 16 March Andrea Lucchesini piano and Sandro Cappelletto narrative voice explore the last three Schubert sonatas written in a just few weeks before the composer’s death. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org. VIVALDI’S QUATTRO STAGIONE ENSEMBLE L’ASTREE 30 March The Ensemble L’Astrée, specialists in Baroque music and in Vivaldi in particular, takes an unusual look at Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, linking Vivaldi’s masterpiece with other cantatas that echo the same key symbolism. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org. CROSSDRESSING BACH 6 April Enrico Gatti violin and Rinaldo Alessandrini harpsichord mix and combine original Bach works with unusual variations. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA ALSO SPRACH ZARATHUSTRA RICHARD STRAUSS 2-4 March Inspired by Nietzsche’s work of the same name this tone poem was composed in 1896 and performed for the

first time the same year in Frankfurt, conducted by the composer. It is best known as the theme music for Kubrick’s 2001: Space Odyssey. The programme also includes music by Ligeti (Lontano used in Kubrick’s film Shining) and Saint-Saens. The S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus is conducted by Andrés Orozco-Estrada. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. MURRAY PERAHIA 6 March The US pianist has recently released a recording of Bach’s French Suites (his first for Deutsche Grammophon) which is included in this programme, as well as music by Schubert and Beethoven. See photo page 28. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG ANDREA LUCCHESINI 9-11 March Myung-Whun Chung conducts a programme of Beethoven, including the Leonore overture and the Eroica symphony. Pianist Andrea Lucchesini is also performing at the Accademia Filarmonica di Roma on 16 March. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. BEATRICE RANA 15 March The young Italian pianist (born 1993), who already has a considerable international reputation, plays Bach’s Goldberg Variations. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

MISCHA MAISKY 2 March The Latvian-born Israeli cellist, Mischa Maisky, returns to Rome to play Bach cello suites, 2, 3 and 6. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ASSOLI II 10 Feb-21 April A series of concerts by the soloists of the Imago Sonora Ensemble performing contemporary music, much of it being performed for the first time. On 6 March Augusta Giraldi plays the harp in a concert of music by Houdy, Andrès, Britten, Mortari, Salzedo and Chertok. On 20 March Alice Coregiani, clarinet, plays music by Berio, Munari, Longo, Scelsi, Carter and Widmann. The Assoli concerts are inspired by the Schubertiade gatherings in 19th-cen-

Andrea Lucchesini is playing at S. Cecilia on 9-11 March and at the Filarmonica on 16 March. March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

GRIGORY SOKOLOV 27 March Sokolov is an old favourite at S. Cecilia. He is very selective about where he plays so Rome audiences are fortunate to see him so frequently. His programme includes two Mozart and two Beethoven sonatas. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

Murray Perahia performs Bach’s French Suite at S. Cecilia. See page 27.

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS BARTOCK INTERPRETATIONS 16-18 March Violinist Leonida Kavakos performs two Bartok works. Brahms symphony no 2 is also in the programme with Paavo Järvi conducting the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. HANDEL’S MESSIAH 23-25 March Tom Koopman conducts Handel’s Messiah with the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

VIENNA 1884-1934 30-March- 1 April Vladimir Jurowski conducts Zemlinksy’s Sinfonietta written in 1934 and Mahler’s symphony no 1, or Titan, which was not well received when it premiered in Budapest in 1889. Mahler made several modifications until the final four-movement version of 1896. The symphony has been conducted by all the contemporary greats, Claudio Abbado, Leonard Bernstein, Simon Rattle, Loren Maazel and Gustav Dudamel included. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI DÉFENSE DE LA BASSE DE VIOLE... 4 March A conversation in musical format inspired by the 1740 work by Hubert Le Blanc who bewailed the demise of the viol in favour of the violin and the cello. Music of the period by Marais, Forqueray and Vivaldi alternates with readings from the Le Blanc’s treatise, Défense de la basse de viole contre les enterprises du violon et les prétentions du violoncelle. Enrico Bronzi plays the cello, Vittorio Ghiel-

mi the viola da gamba, Lorenzo Ghielmi the harpsichord and Luca Pianca the lute, with Luciano Bertoli as the narrator. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. Apologies to readers for getting the dates wrong for this and Emmanuel Pahud concert in the February edition of the magazine. EMMANUEL PAHUD ERIC LA SAGE 11 March Flautist Emmanuel Pahud returns to the IUC for another brilliant concert with pianist Eric La Sage. They play music by Mozart (sonata in C major), Schubert, Schumann and Mendelssohn. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. I SOLOISTI DI MOSCA YURI BASHMET 14 March To mark the 100th anniversary of the October Revolution. The programme includes music by Sviridov, Prokofiev, Colasanti (the Rome premiere) , Schnittke and Shostakovich. The composition by Silvia Colasanti (Preludio, Presto e Lamento) was written for and dedicated to Yuri Bashmet and I Solisti di Mosca and was first performed in Foligno in 2015. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. QUARTETTO DI CREMONA 18 March This concert was originally programme for January but was then moved to March. The string quartet explores three more Beethoven quartets. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. PIETRO DE MARIA 28 March Bach’s Goldberg Variations are on the programme for the second time in Rome this month (see Bea Rana at S. Cecilia on 14 March). Pietro De Maria is another Italian pianist with a distinguished career and his repertoire includes works from Bach to Ligeti. One of his successes was playing and recording the complete works of Chopin in six concerts. More recently he has turned his attention to Bach’s Goldberg Variations. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

Leonidas Kavakos plays Bartok at S. Cecilia.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

MARIANGELA VACATELLI 1 April The Italian pianist from Naples, who has a long list of international concerts and competitions to her name, plays music by Ginastera, Scarlatti, Ravel Sciarrino and Ravel. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www. concertiiuc.it.

Idan Raichel Project, a group known for its distinctive fusion of electronics, traditional Hebrew texts, Arab and Ethiopian music. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com. SIMPLE MINDS 23 April This veteran Scottish rock band produced a number of critically-acclaimed albums in the early 1980s, achieving international recognition and selling over 60 million albums since 1979. Fronted by Jim Kerr, the band is bestknown for hit singles Don’t You (Forget About Me), Alive and Kicking and Belfast Child. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Il Quartetto Cremona explore more Beethoven quartets at the IUC.

ROMA TRE ALESSANDRA AMMARA IMPRESSIONS 26 March This piano recital of music by Debussy and Ravel is based on the idea that Debussy and Ravel represented for music what Monet did for painting, a new vision of form and colour which in music led to a new use of melody and harmony based on emotion and sentiment. Ammara, who is compiling a repertoire of the complete piano works of Ravel, is also looking ahead to the centenary of the death of Debussy next year with her performance of one of Debussy’s Preludes. Debussy wrote 24 preludes divided into two books of 12 preludes each. Book One was written in just three months between December 1909 and February 2010. Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

elements of rock, alternative pop and folk, and she is known for hit singles such as L’ultimo bacio and L’abitudine di tornare. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com. PINK FLOYD LEGEND 10 March Well known Pink Floyd cover group, Pink Floyd Legend, celebrates the 40th anniversary of the original band’s concept album Animals, whose sleeve features a cult image of a pig floating between two chimneys of the Battersea Power Station in London. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via Della Conciliazione 4, tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ

MACY GRAY 11 March This American R&B, jazz musician and soul singer is best known for her distinctive raspy voice, and her major international hit single I Try from her multi-platinum debut album On How Life Is. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via Della Conciliazione 4, tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

CARMEN CONSOLI 2-4 March Sicilian singer-songwriter Carmen Consoli performs at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Her musical style incorporates

IDAN RAICHEL 15 March Concert by the Israeli singer-songwriter and musician behind the

ROMA TOR VERGATA ROMA SINFONIETTA UNIVERSITA TOR VERGATA There is also a series of concerts at the Auditorium Ennio Morricone of Università Tor Vergata. See www.romasinfonietta.com and web.uniroma2.it for details.

PATTI SMITH 13 May American singer-songwriter Patti Smith returns to Rome with her special concert series Grateful, in which she is accompanied on stage by her children alongside bassist, guitarist and musical director Tony Shanahan. Smith set new standards for the New York City punk rock movement when she released her debut album Horses in 1975. Referred to as the “Godmother of Punk”, Smith’s best-known song is Because the Night, co-written with Bruce Springsteen. Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium. com. RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS 20 July Tickets are on sale for a concert in Rome this summer by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. The American band has a distinct musical sound combining various ele-

Patti Smith performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Red Hot Chili Peppers come to Rock in Roma this summer.

ments of hard rock, funk and hip hop. Formed in Los Angeles in 1983, the band achieved huge commercial success with the 1991 album Blood Sugar Sex Magik which sold over 12 million copies and spawned hits such as Give It Away and Under the Bridge. In more recent years the band has attracted a new generation of fans with songs such as Californication and Otherside. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www.rockinroma.com.

and masterclasses by industry experts. Now in its sixth year, the Spirit of Scotland festival also involves traditional Scottish fare such as shortbread, salmon and jams displayed alongside Italian delicacies. Organisers say that a novelty this year is a cocktail area showcasing the “best cocktail bars in all of Italy.” The festival, which enjoys the patronage of the British embassy in Rome, takes place at the Salone delle Fontane, EUR. For full details see website, en.spiritofscotland.it.

FRANCOFILM 7-17 March Fans of French cinema will enjoy the eighth edition of Francofilm, the festival dedicated to francophone or French-language films, at the Institut Français Centre SaintLouis. Films are screened in their original language, with subtitles in Italian, and there will be directors and actors present at the festival which is held in collaboration with embassies and representatives of the international organisation of French-speaking countries. Viewers can vote for their favourite film, which is selected for a prize, in addition to a separate award from an expert panel of judges. This year’s programme, centred around the theme “family”, opens with Il a déjà tes yeux di Lucien Jean-Baptiste, and closes with the award ceremony and the screening of La tortue rouge by Michaël Dudok de Wit. The festival’s 16 films come from Albania, Armenia, Belgium, Bulgaria, Burkina Faso, Canada-Québec, France, Greece, Ivory Coast, Libya, Luxembourg, Mali, Morocco, Switzerland, Tunisia and Vietnam. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com.

festivals SPIRIT OF SCOTLAND 4-5 March This two-day event showcases a vast range of Scotland’s whisky, from wellknown to rare, and includes tastings

Italy’s Irish cinema festival celebrates 10 years The tenth IRISH FILM FESTA, the only Italian film festival dedicated completely to Irish cinema, takes place Gridlock starring Moe Dunford (right) at the tenth edition of Irish Film Festa. at Rome’s Casa del Cinema from 30 March to 2 April. The annual festival screens Irish feature films, documentaries and short films, and provides conferences and public interviews with special guests from the Irish film sector. This year the competition section, reserved for short films produced or co-produced in Ireland, comprises 15 works, spanning various genres and featuring numerous big names from Irish cinema: three animated shorts (A Coat Made Dark, The Lost Letter and Second to None), a documentary (Seán Hillen, Merging Views), a mockumentary (Starz), a horror (Blight), a thriller (Gridlock), a fantasy (The Clockmaker’s Dream), a humorous and contemporary adaptation of an ancient Gaelic poem (The Court), a biopic (Two Angry Men), a romantic comedy starring children (The Debt), a formative tale with an LGBT theme (Lily), and three dramas (Homecoming, Pause and Today). The feature films this year include the documentary 66 Days by Brendan J. Byrne, which examines the 1981 hunger strike that led to the death of Bobby Sands in Long Kesh prison, while the cinematic representation of The Troubles in Northern Ireland will be the focus of a conference by Prof. Martin McLoone, University of Ulster, Emeritus. The festival’s founder and artistic director Susanna Pellis looks forward to the tenth edition as a “special occasion to celebrate the past and give new strength to the future of the festival.” For details see website, www.irishfilmfesta.org. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 06423601.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

tango. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, www.teatroolimpico.it. TEATRO VASCELLO

dance MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA VALSE, SYMPHONY IN C, SHEHERAZADE 19 April-13 May La Valse and Sheherazade are new Teatro alla Scala productions. Ravel’s La Valse is choreographed by some of the dancers from the La Scala ballet company in a new project to encourage new talent. Roberto Bolle is dancing in Symphony in C (on 19, 21 April and 10, 11 May) to the Balachine choreography. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME AUDITORIUM CONCILIAZIONE LES ETOILES 18-19 March Performances by the stars of international classical ballet companies, Davide Dato, Ludmila Konovalova (Vienna Opera), Marlon Dino and Lucia Lacarra (Munich Opera) Gonzalo Garcia, Tiler Peck, Amar Ramasar (New York City Ballet), Ivan Vasilev and Maria Vinogradova (Bolshoi Ballet Moscow). They will dance works from the great classical repertoire as well as contemporary choreographies such as Christopher Wheeldon’s Bitter Earth, Russel Maliphant’s Spiral Twist and Val Caniparoli’s Lady of the Camelias. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. TEATRO BRANCACCIO PARSONS DANCE COMPANY 29 March-2 April The popular Parson Dance Company is back as part of its current Italian

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

Miguel Angel Barna opens the Festival Internazionale della Danza at Teatro Olimpico.

tour with Caught created originally for David Parsons, as well as Union, Hard Dance and In the End plus two works making their European premiere. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana, www. teatrobrancaccio.it. TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA COPPELIA 12-16 March The choreography is by Giorgin Mancini who has a long career in Italy including at the Maggio Musicale ballet company which has now closed. This is a S. Carlo di Napoli production. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it. ROBBINS, PRELJOCAJ, EKMAN 31 March-8 April Three works, The Concert, to music by Chopin with choreography by Jerome Robbins, Annunciation to music by Stephane Roy and Antonio Vivaldi with choreography by Angelin Preljocal and Cacti to music by Haydn, Beethoven, Schubert and Mahler with choreography by Alexander Ekman. David Garforth, an expert in ballet repertoire, conducts the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it. TEATRO OLIMPICO FESTIVAL INTERNAZIONALE DELLA DANZA DI ROMA 14 March-end of May Once again the Accademia Filarmonica Romana and the Teatro Olimpico collaborate for the seventh edition of this dance festival. It opens (14 March-26 March) with Miguel Angel Berna and the new work Tango, Raices Argentinas being performed for the first time in Italy. It has been described as a journey through the history of the

DIMMI CHE MI AMI MOTUS DANCE 6 March Choreography by Simona Cieri and Motus Dance which is based in Siena. Cieri, who formed the company, has a strong has a strong classical background but has also studied modern, contemporary dance, jazz and dance theatre in her search for new means of expression to treat themes of social relevance. Dimmi che mi Ami, on the theme of violence against women, was first performed in 2013. Some of the latest titles include Conflicts (2015) WoMen and Vio-Lazione. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

THEATRE TEATRO VITTORIA 14-19 March Khora.teatro offers a fresh take of the labyrinth of literary events and quests for knowledge contained in Homer’s epic The Odyssey, drawing inspiration from the stage adaptation by Nobel Prize-winning Caribbean poet and playwright Derek Walcott. In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it. TEATRO SISTINA 15 March-9 April Teatro Sistina stages a theatrical version of Febbre da cavallo, the 1976 movie which starred Gigi Proietti and became a cult of light Italian comedy. Directed by Claudio Insegno, with artistic supervision by Enrico Brignano. In Italian. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it. TWELVE ANGRY MEN 17-18 March The students of the Pontifical Irish College present an adaptation of Reginald Rose’s classic courtroom drama as part of the college’s St Patrick’s Day celebrations (see page 35). 19.30 both evenings. In English. Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631, see website for details, www.irishcollege.org. TEATRO INDIA 21-26 March Ma is inspired by the mother figure in the work of Pier Paolo Pasolini, with Antonio Latella using the first syllable

from the word “mamma” as a starting point for a maternal-themed journey through Pasolini’s oeuvre. In Italian. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.teatrodiroma.net. ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 31 March The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity, in English, features Rome’s Comedy Club founder Marsha De Salvatore with regulars Ryan Costello, Kissy Dugan, José Salgado and Liz Knight, with MC for the evening Mike Botula from the band No Funny Stuff. Doors open at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere. A SECRET RAPTURE 4-9 April Michael Fitzpatrick directs A Secret Rapture by British playwright David Hare, presented by Wonderwall Entertainment by special arrangement with Samuel French. Tue-Fri 20.30, Sat-Sun 17.30. For info and reservations contact wonderwallenter@gmail.com or tel. 347 / 8248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (off Viale Mazzini).

OPERA MILAN LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 3-14 March Anna Netrebko sings (9,11,14 March), along with other opera stars Leo Nucci and Francesco Meli in this Liliana Cavani 1990 production of Verdi’s ever-popular work, conducted by Nello Santi making his debut with a Verdi opera at La Scala. Ailyn Perez alternates with Netrebko in the role of Violetta (3, 5 March) and she will return to La Scala in July in the role of Mimì in Puccini’s La Boheme. Funds raised at a special extra performance on 26 February went towards a special project for the young in the earthquake zones of central Italy. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. DIE MEISTERSINGER VON NURNBERG BY RICHARD WAGNER 16 March-5 April Daniel Gatti conducts Wagner’s opera directed by Harry Kupfer. This long opera is the only comedy of Wagner’s mature works and is the only one based on a story set in a specific time (mid-16th

Candida Nieri stars in Ma at Teatro India. Photo Brunella Giolivo.

century) and place (Nuremberg) rather than based around a myth or a legend. Kupfer is a master of Wagner operas and has directed several productions at the Bayreuth Festival as well as Richard Strauss’ Der Rosenkavalier last summer at La Scala. The cast includes Jaquelyn Wagner, Anna Lapkovskaja, Michael Volle and Markus Werba. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME IL TROVATORE BY VERDI 28 Feb-10 March This is a new production for Rome’s opera house in conjunction with the Amsterdam National Opera and the Opera National Paris. Conducted by Jade Bignamini and directed by Alex Ollé of Barcelona’s collective La Fura dels Baus. It has already been staged in its contemporary setting both in Amsterdam and Paris, transposed from conflict in mediaeval Spain to the trenches of world war one, with monumental and austere sets by Alfons Flores. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

MARIA STUARDA BY DONIZETTI 22 March-4 April This production directed by the Italian theatre and opera director Andrea De Rosa first went on stage in 2010 at the S. Carlo di Napoli. More recently De Rosa has staged productions of Puccini’s Suor Angelica and Enrique Granados’ Goyescas at the S. Carlo and the Florence Opera and Simon Boccanegra in Turin, Venice and the Marinsky at St Petersburg. There is a showing of young talent from the Fabbrica dell’ Opera – Young Artists Programme of the Teatro dell’Opera. Marina Rebeka, who sings the title role, is making her debut in this Donizetti opera. Carmela Remigio who sings the part of Elisabetta, has performed in all three of Donizetti’s Tudor trilogy, Maria Stuarda, Anna Bolena and Roberto Devereux. The opera, which is conducted by Paolo Arrivabene, premiered at La Scala in 1835 and in recent years has become established as part of the repertoire in America and Europe. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

Harry Kupfer’s Die Meistersinger von Nuremberg will be on stage at La Scala mid March. March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

di Francia a Roma – Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611, www. villamedici.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 20 Jan-19 April Washoku la colorata vita alimentare dei Giapponesi is an exhibition highlighting the colours and flavours of Japanese cuisine, or washoku, through film, nishiiki-e prints, cooking utensils and recreations of Japanese dishes. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www. jfroma.it.

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 14 March Pulitzer-Prize winning composer David Lang and film director Paolo Sorrentino discuss their collaboration in the movies La Grande Bellezza and La Giovinezza, as well as the importance of music to narrative. The event will be held in English, 18.00. 28 March World-renowned archaeologist Ian Hodder of Stanford University and Italian archaeologist and FAI president Andrea Carandini discuss the present and future of archaeology in the US and Europe. In English, 18.00. 14 Feb-2 April The 2017 edition of Cinque Mostre at the American Academy in Rome features five separate exhibitions and collaborative projects by current Rome Prize Fellows from several disciplines as well as artists invited by curator Ilaria Gianni. The theme of this year’s event is Vision(s) and its multi-facted interpretations. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org. BELGIAN ACADEMY OF ROME 16 Feb-24 March The Belgian Academy in Rome hosts an exhibition by Austrian artist Wolfgang Bender who is exhibiting for the first time in Italy. Under the title Tagebuch (Diary) the Vienna-based artist presents a diary of glass sheets, reflecting the daily experience of a constantlyevolving artistic process. Academia Belgica, Via Omero 8, tel. 0620398631, www.academiabelgica.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 9 March. A talk by Pádraig Timoney, a prominent visual artist based in New York but originally from Derry in Northern Ireland. 18.00-19.30. 13 March. Disembowelled vision: Fascism, Rome and cinema, a lecture by

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

Film director Paolo Sorrentino at the American Academy in Rome.

John David Rhodes of Cambridge University. 18.00-19.30. 17 March. Fine Arts Mostra: Exhibition of works by current BRS fine arts awardholders Caroline Cloutier, Morgan Gostwyck-Lewis, Neil McNally, Catherine Parsonage, Sinta Tantra, and Vivien Zhang. Mon-Sat 16.30-19.00. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr. ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE 30 Nov-12 March The Casa di Goethe presents Costellazioni 1, the first in the 2017 series of three annual exhibitions highlighting stories and treasures rediscovered recently by Germans in Rome. The exhibition focuses on how German scholars have stumbled upon lost antiques and mastepieces hidden among the bric-a-brac in the city’s market stalls. On display are rare etchings by Manet and Renoir, original prints by Albrecht Dürer and Francis Bacon, and unpublished letters relating to the lives of noted German intellectuals and artists – all found in 2016. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. FRENCH ACADEMY 9 Feb-23 April The French Academy at Villa Medici holds an exhibition of work by Annette Messager, one of France’s leading visual artists. Messager is known mainly for her installations in which she incorporates photographs, prints, drawings and embroidery to explore feminist themes. She is the recipient of numerous prestigious awards, from the Golden Lion at the Venice Biennale, to the Praemium Imperiale Arts International Award for sculpture. Messager has also been the subject of major retrospectives at the Musée de la Ville de Paris, MoMA in New York, and at the Centre Pompidou. Accademia

KEATS SHELLEY-HOUSE 28 Nov-3 June Pens to Paper. Autograph Letters from the Keats-Shelley House. With the subheading From Sir Walter Scott to President Theodore Roosevelt, this exhibition at the Keats-Shelley House focuses on the art of letter-writing and the changes in the industrial production of paper and writing materials between the early 19th century and the early 20th century. The exhibition includes a series of autograph letters by figures such as Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Francesco Crispi, Henry James, Eleonora Duse, and Rudyard Kipling. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org.

CHILDREN BIOPARCO 2 March-30 June The Bioparco holds a fun exhibition entitled La cacca: storia naturale dell’innominabile (Poop: nature’s unspeakable story) which examines the vital role of “cacca” in the world’s ecosystem. In Italian and English. Bioparco, Piazzale del Giardino Zoologico 1, tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

ARTandSEEK organises English-language museum visits for children in Rome.

ARTandSEEK 4-5 March ARTandSEEK organises English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. 4 March. Li Chevalier’s Trajectory of Desire installation at MACRO Testaccio. For children aged 6-12 (English learners) and their families, in Italian with introduction of English words and expressions, 16.30. 5 March. Li Chevalier’s Trajectory of Desire installation at MACRO Testaccio. For children aged 6-12 and their families, entirely in English, 11.00. For event details tel. 331 / 5524440, email booking@ artandseekforkids.com or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

France faces Italy in the Six Nations in Rome on 11 March.

sport SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME 11 March Italy faces France in the Six Nations rugby tournament at Rome’s Olympic Stadium on 11 March. The match comes one week ahead of the final round of the 18th annual rugby union championship, which is contested by England, France, Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Wales, and concludes on 18 March. Italy’s rugby team is keen to pass on the dreaded “wooden spoon”, for coming bottom of the table last year, while the English side went into the tournament as defending champions. During the weekend of the France-Italy game, 10-12 March, there is free admission for two people to 15 Rome museums for Six Nations ticket holders, thanks to an agreement between Italy’s rugby federation and the Italian culture ministry. For list of participating museums see city website, www.comune.roma.it.

religion WELCOME THE STRANGER 2-23 March The Vincent Pallotti Institute presents Welcoming the Stranger, its spring lecture series on Thursday mornings at the Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas. 2 March. “I am because we are.” Social responsibility and the refugee crisis. Amaya Valcarcel, International Advocacy Coordinator, Jesuit Refugee Service. Antony Mukui Wanjiku, Advocacy Assistant, JRS, with Isaias Marcano, Lay Centre Leadership Scholar. 9 March. Meeting Virtually, Loving Virtually. The Paradoxes of a Disembodied Life. Peter Lah, SJ, Professor, Faculty of Social Sciences, Pontifical Gregorian University. Filipe Domingues, Lay Centre Leadership Scholar.

16 March. The Road to Integration. A common goal that brings Christians together. Archbishop Sir David Moxon KNZM, The Archbishop of Canterbury’s Representative to the Holy See, and Director of the Anglican Centre in Rome Claudia Giampietro, Lay Centre Leadership Scholar. 23 March. Hospitality beyond boundaries. Christians and Muslims responding together to the refugee crisis. Thomas Michel, SJ, Professor, Georgetown University and Cenap Mustafa Aydin, Director, Istituto Tevere. Peter Dziedzic, Lay Centre Leadership Scholar. For full details see website, www.laycentre.org. Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas, Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761.

ST PATRICK’S DAY ST PATRICK’S DAY IN ROME 17 March St Patrick’s Day in Rome begins officially on Friday 17 March at 10.00, with the annual Mass for Lá Fhéile Pádraig being celebrated by Cardinal Seán Brady at St Patrick’s Church on Via Boncompagni 31 in the Via Veneto area. The Mass is always extremely well-attended by the

city’s Irish community and friends of Ireland, who join together in a misty-eyed rendition of Hail Glorious, St Patrick. Later that evening, the Pontifical Irish College stages a performance of Twelve Angry Men, see page 32 for details. This year the Colosseum will be illuminated in green lights in honour of Saint Patrick, following a recent agreement between Rome’s mayor Virginia Raggi and Ireland’s ambassdor Bobby McDonagh, as part of Tourism Ireland’s international Global Greening initiative. Festivities continue over the weekend with the 26th edition of the Celtic Ball – Rome’s biggest social occasion in Irish circles – on Saturday 18 March at 19.30. This year the annual black-tie ball moves to the Hotel Quirinale on Via Nazionale, providing the event with an “atmosphere of elegance and charm” according to Irish Club president Helen Harrington. Celtic Ball raffle proceeds will be donated to homeless charity Project Rome. Meanwhile for those who wish to raise a toast to St Patrick with a pint of Guinness, some of the pubs most favoured by the capital’s Irish expats include the Druid’s Den, the Fiddler’s Elbow, Finnegan’s, and Scholars Lounge, all of which are sure to attract large crowds over St Patrick’s weekend.

The Colosseum is included in Ireland’s Global Greening initiative for St Patrick’s Day.

March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

Marymount’s newly-opened FabLab offers students the chance to create and experiment using the latest technology.

New FabLab for Marymount International School

arymount International School recently became the first private international school in Rome to have its own Fabrication Laboratory. The FabLab is dedicated to the digital and artisanal creations of the worldwide “Maker” movement, and hosts avant-garde technology in addition to traditional tools. The 220-sqm FabLab building extends over two levels, repurposed with modern energy-conservation materials and offering cutting-edge facilities for Marymount students. The facility has the support of a dedicated teacher and its equipment includes 3D printers, 3D scanner, laser cutter, vinyl cutter, air compressor, multimeter, sensors and 3D software. Marymount students write about their experiences at the FabLab.

The FabLab experience Joining the FabLab class this year was an amazing opportunity. In the FabLab there are many technological and expensive machines such as the 3D printer, so our first project was to create a security system for the Lab. We were really nervous but at the same time excited. First of all our teacher, Mr Zoffoli, told us to be careful because we had to drill the wall, and he showed us the materials that we were going to work with. Then he taught us the main parts of the alarm system, what they are and their function. We then proceeded to make the alarm system by creating a central circuit which sends information to dif-

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

ferent parts. After that, we connected it to the other parts around it and joined the wires, linking them to the central electricity. The last step was inserting the security code and testing the alarm to make sure it was working. Everyone worked on a part of the alarm which enhanced the team work and brought out team spirit. For example, while some were drilling the wall, others were working with the wires. We had so much fun working all together, one of the best moments was making holes in the wall. We really enjoyed creating the alarm because we we were learning through hands-on experience yet also collaborating with other classes. It was

an enlightening experience. This was a wonderful and unique opportunity to discover a whole new fascinating and technological world. Caterina Lupattelli, Grade 6, 11 years old. The laser cutter The FabLab is a place where students can express all their creativity and passion to create anything that comes from their imagination. During my lessons in the FabLab the machine that fascinated me the most is the laser cutter. This instrument is used for cutting different types of materials

Once a 19th-century barn, the FabLab building is equipped with the latest cutting-edge facilities.

like cardboard, wood, glass and much more. The laser cutter is a very complex instrument to use, but with the help of my teacher I was able to learn the functions and process of this machine in a very short time. First we created a design of our idea on a computer, and then we connected the computer to the laser cutter; afterward we set the programme and the intensity of the laser (this can vary depending on the type of material and the effect you would like to obtain) and decided what route the laser was going to follow. Once we tested the route we started the laser. With this machine we created many different objects: we started off by cutting small letters in cardboard, and we familiarised with the different options: intensity, size, and starting point. We then began to create inscriptions in wood. This machine has great perfection in cutting materials, and therefore the created objects will have perfect shapes. This is possible thanks to the great computer codes in the machine that tell the laser where to cut. The FabLab is a great opportunity to expand our learning, and I am enormously delighted to be part of it. Nada Paoluzi, Grade 7, 12 years old. FabLab A FabLab is a workshop where students can create anything they want. It is full of awesome machines such as laser cutters and 3D printers. The 3D printer

and this tells the printer where to melt the plastic. 3D printers have enhanced our way of learning. I state this because they have revolutionised the world for us creative students who really enjoy and feel fulfilled with the excitement of seeing and bringing to life our ideas. Mario Corea, Grade 8, 13 years old. Marymount International School, Via di Villa Lauchli 180, tel. 063629101, www.marymountrome.org.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Some equipment used in students’ projects.

has had the greatest impact on me. But what is a 3D printer? A 3D printer is a printer that doesn’t print on paper but instead it creates mind-blowing objects simply by the process of melting plastic. There are various types of 3D printers. Each printer varies in quality and size. The size of the finished product depends on the printing volume. In order to print, it uses an extruder which can reach temperatures of up to 250 degrees Celsius this procedure melts the different types of plastic we use. To create an object you first design it using a computer programme. Then you slice it using a software. When you slice the object you are creating you then divide it into hundreds of layers

Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com. March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town 2 BEDROOM APARTMENT BY THE PANTHEON. Elegant and private home by the Pantheon. Fantastic and unique location minutes from all the major attractions in Rome. 2 double bedrooms (The living room can be used as third bedroom), 2 bathrooms, modern kitchen fully equipped and 2 balconies facing a private courtyard and rooftops. Available now for 3 months. Email carolsplace1121@ gmail.com.

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

ATELIER FLAT TO RENT. Fully furnished apartment,five minutes away from Metro Station Furio Camillo, 1 bus away from FAO, windows facing an inner courtyard, quiet, two bathrooms, two bedroom and one living room with kitchenette. 2/3 floor with lift, new building. Long stays. 3 month deposit. Info luisadelcampo@hotmail.com. BRAVETTA - PEACEFUL APARTMENT INSIDE CASALE. Apartment 100sqm in historical casale, partially furnished, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, big living room, fully fitted kitchen, terrace, big garden. Close to Monteverde and Villa Pamphili. €1.300/ month, long term. msg@adrianostefani.it. NEAR PONTE MILVIO, LARGE, SUNNY ROOM TO RENT. English/Italian lady rents large, sunny, furnished room, private bathroom, fridge, balcony, kitchen use, weekly linen/ cleaning, TV, wi-fi, 2 mins from bank, post-office, supermarket, excellent public transport, €600 month, also short lets, photos available, references required. terrypeppiatt@alice.it. NEAR PONTE MILVIO, QUIET, SUNNY FLAT. English/Italian lady rents sunny fully-furnished flat, 45sqm, 4th floor, living/kitchen, appliances, large bedroom, wall-

to-wall closets, bathroom (tub/shower), TV, excellent bus service, 2 mins shops, bank etc., poss. small car/moto park, free Wi-fi, €850,00/month electricity/heating consumption-based. Free now, also short lets. More photos on request, references required.terrypeppiatt@alice.it. RENT APARTMENT ON VIA DELLA SCROFA, HISTORIC CENTRE. Furnished 73sqm attic apartment in Via della Scrofa in Rome, beside Piazza Navona. Completely renewed, third floor no lift. One bedroom, living and dining room, bathroom, liveable terrace, fully equipped kitchen. Washing machine, dishwasher, air conditioning, autonomous heating. Rental price €1.500 monthly inclusive of condominium expenses. Contract short term (“contratto transitorio” at least 6 / max.18 months). Contact nicoletta.lancioni@libero.it. ST PETER STUDIO APARTMENT. Independent apartment, 33 sqm, furnished, composed of living room, bedroom, kitchen corner, private bathroom, A/C, Wifi, fridge, TV. Tel 340 / 3106079, m.rita.salustri@virgilio.it. VIA MERULANA - S. MARIA MAGGIORE. One single room to rent for 1 person. Shared bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Tel. 338 / 7911289, 335 / 6803908. romachm@gmail.com.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA. 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, € 350 + € 40 condominium. Tel. 06 / 6786400. fedel@email.it. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

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March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Jobs vacant ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ENGLISH KS1 TEACHER. Acorn House International school is looking for an English KS1 teacher to start immediately in Rome. Acorn House International is looking for a dynamic, creative and experienced Year 2 teacher wishing to be part of an innovative teaching team. V level, full time contract, info@acornhouse.school. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING. Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for young children and adult courses for immediate start. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to job@ angloamerican.it. LOOKING FOR ENGLISH LANGUAGE TEACHER. We are looking for English language teacher (British, America, Canadian New Zeland , Australian nationalities ) qualified (CELTA ,TEFL or other teacher training) available to teacher private lessons at hour school, (Monti area) normally in the afternoon after 1 pm. Rate per 1 hour €16. Please send your cv at info@ciao-italia.it. LOOKING FOR OUTGOING PEOPLE. Looking for outgoing people to work in English to give info to tourists and guide. Part time job. Send email to mackhugs@gmail.com. RELOCATION & IMMIGRATION ASSOCIATE. Principal Relocation Company, Italy’s premier relocation company, seeks a motivated, focused and goal/detail oriented individual to work as a Relocation & Immigration Associate. Experience in the field of relocation, immigration and/or real estate is an advantage, but full training will be given. Fluent Italian and English are essential. Please send your CV and photo to careers@principalrelocation.com with reference RIA-RM as the subject. Only residents of Rome need apply. ST. STEPHEN’S SCHOOL OF ROME IS SEEKING. St. Stephen’s School of Rome has an opening for a Relief/Substitute Nurse, who would be needed from 08.00 to 13.30 to cover for when the school’s fulltime nurse is sick or unable to come in. The ideal candidate must have a valid, active nursing license, and preferably speak Italian and English. Contact mandy.patton@ sssrome.it.

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

SUPPLY / SUBSTITUTE TEACHERS WANTED. Qualified, experienced substitute teachers residing in Rome are needed for all levels (elementary/middle/high school) at American Overseas School of Rome. Italian / EU citizens or valid permit of stay for US citizens required, teaching qualification preferred. Please email detailed CV to escoordinator@ aosr.org. THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME TEACHING POSITION OPEN. The American University of Rome’s Business Administration program is now accepting CVs from potential Adjunct Professor candidates for the “Marketing Research” course in Spring 2017. The upper level elective in the marketing area provides students with an overview of the research process, sampling techniques and qualitative and quantitative data collection methods of primary data. Adjunct faculty are expected to teach to the designated syllabus, provide support and guidance to students; and develop strategies to teach the course for the entire semester, using the course syllabus, objectives, and curriculum. PhD in relevant field, and/or experience teaching at University level. Italian working papers essential. Availability from 30 Jan to 15 May required. Interested candidates should send a CV immediately to humanresources@aur.edu (Ref. HR13/2016). Interviews will start immediately and continue until the post is filled. TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team. We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours. We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese. Potential for great money. You’ll be working in an international environment and in a friendly atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Contact walczakmagda@gmail.com. TRAINING SCUOLA DI LINGUE IS SEEKING. Mothertongue qualified English teachers required for company

courses in Rome. Please send CV to info@ trainingclub.com. TUTOR FOR STUDENT AT ST. GEORGE’S. Brilliant 14-year-old boy, fluent in English, needs motivation. Excellent pay. Call Josie at 340 / 8860363.

lessons ENGLISH TEACHER. Qualified and experienced mother tongue English Teacher for private or corporate sector. Geared-up with most up-to-date instruction methods and latest educational & multimedia teaching material. Preparation for TOEFL, IELTS, CAE, FCE etc. Call 333 / 5743960, www.englishrome.webs. comn.philips@yahoo.com. WORKSHOPS ON CREATIVE PHOTHOGRAPHY ZEN. EXPERIENCIAL SEMINARS FOR CURIOUS PHOTOGRAPHERS AND BEGINNERS AIMED TO DEVELOP VISUAL AWARENESS ON WHAT IS NOT VISIBLE, DISCOVER THE HIDDEN ASPECTS AND ARTISTIC CREATIVITY IN YOUR PICS. LIMITED PLACES SEMINARS LED BY G.RIFILATO & F.GAZON IN ROME HIST. CENTRE - INFO TEL. 328 / 1094001.

poetry M5S FOR PRESIDENT. Lasci stare Mayor, è mejo. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

TERROR IN THE MIRROR. Anymore days in Europe taking a metro and exploding in the air. Anymore days in the city going around to zigzag between the waste. Anymore days at home watching the television quite capable to say that someone killed the pope. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. IMMIGRANTS WHERE? Europe government blamed each other. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com

Property for sale in town PENTHOUSE FOR SALE, BARE OWNERSHIP. Penthouse for sale, bare ownership, via Nicola Fabrizi 1, Roma. Located on the Gianicolo, Trastevere quarter, in the historical centre of Rome. The apartment is 68 sqm, including 16 sqm of terrace overlooking the Gianicolo park and the church of S. Pietro in Montorio. It has a panoramic view on the city and the Castelli Romani, and is situated in a distinct and prestigious environment, adjacent to the American Academy, the Embassy of Spain, the Spanish Academy, and Villa Sciarra. Trastevere is steps away, reachable through a private, gated external pathway that is part of the residential complex. The penthouse is on the fifth floor of a 1930s building, and is served by an elevator that reaches the fourth floor. It comprises a generous foyer, a large bedroom, bathroom, kitchenette and wide living room with a working fireplace and large beautiful terrace. The apartment is in excellent condition, well tended, very bright and comfortable. Autonomous heat and air conditioning. Asking price €420.000 for sale bare ownership. The bare owner is exempt from paying IMU and TASI taxes, while being responsible for extra maintenance costs. Contact: Maria Pia Parisi: tel. 338 / 3421628, pia.parisi@operissimo.com. No agencies.

Property for sale out of town CHARMING PRE-WAR VILLA IN GROTTAFERRATA. A fine example of the Castelli Romani era of the 1920s, this enchanting property features a 4BR home, a barn, a storage shed and 2,500 sqm of parkland with pine and olive trees, fruit orchards and a vineyard with grapes for eating and winemaking. From the monumental gate, a gently sloping driveway over 120m long leads to a decorative fountain, twin marble staircases and a bright sun terrace with sprawling views of Mount Cavo. segreteria@zucchettire.com.

Rooms and flat shares TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfort-

able and well equipped. The room has a big bed, two armchairs, a desk, a wall cupboard with linen. Kitchen use. Including internet. Tel. 339 / 7857565. annabutticci@alice.it. VATICAN ROOMS SHARES. Two single rooms furnished rental in three-room apartment. The third room is occupied by a very responsible college student woman. Close to Vatican City and the metro A (Cipro station). Every room €600. A room with air conditioning and the other with large balcony. Kitchen with dishwasher and washing machine. Bathroom. Heating, condominium, WiFi included. Electricity and gas fees not included. Please, they welcome women only because there is only one bathroom. Contact mario.pescini@libero.it.

Schools and colleges ESE MASTER PROGRAMME, APRIL INTAKE 2017. The Master Programmes at ESE are designed to develop the personal and professional strengths of the individual student. The entrepreneurial education received at ESE is intended to assist individuals in defining their professional dream and put them on a specially tailored career path. ESE Master ‘s students may specialise in Marketing, Finance or Management and are also given the opportunity to further specialise in their sector of interest through the international internship placement programme. The internship is an integral part of the course of study and provides each student the opportunity to spend a 3 months working in the field of the chosen specialisation. This enables students to have excellent opportunities to enter the job market and gain exposure. ESE students have possibility to: study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1,500 leading organisations around the world. Intake Dates: April, September 2017. Courses Duration: 12 months in class (15-18 hrs per week) + 3-6 months internship. Language of Instruction: English. To apply http:// apply.eselondon.ac.uk/ Ma/. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@ uniese.it, tel. 0648906653, www.uniese.it, www. eselondon.ac.uk.

ESE ROME SHORT COURSES, JANUARY INTAKE 2017. The European School of Economics (ESE) graduates are among the most competitive business professionals on the market, prepared for leadership roles in international marketing, finance, communication and management. With the ability to individually tailor their course of study, ESE students: study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1500 leading organisations around the world. ESE Short Courses have been created especially for managers, professionals and aspiring professionals who prefer short, highly focused training to longer periods of study. Professional Programmes provide participants with the knowledge necessary for specific occupational opportunities, and are open to a broader public: Film Business Management, Deal-making, Marketing & Sales, Events Management, Hospitality Management, Specialised Programmes in Marketing, Management and Finance. Intake Dates: January, April, September 2017 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional)12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday)Language of Instruction: English. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese. roma@uniese.it, +39 06 48906653, www. uniese.it, www.eselondon.ac.uk.

March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 March 2017 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | March 2017

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it