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CONTENTS NO. 10 / OCTOBER 2017 EDITORIALS

ITALY GEARS UP FOR 2018 GENERAL ELECTIONS Laura Clarke. . . . 2 MEDITERRANEAN MIGRATIONS. FROM ITHACA TO POZZALLO Mary Wilsey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

WHAT’S ON

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 CLASSICAL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 FESTIVALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 ACADEMIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 CHILDREN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

CLASSIFIED COLUMNS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 ART GALLERIES IN ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 ROME’S CULTURAL ACADEMIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 USEFUL NUMBERS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

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34 October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

POLITICS

Laura Clarke

ITALY GEARS UP FOR 2018 GENERAL ELECTIONS Campaigning is already in full swing and migration is a central theme

he Italian parliament resumed its work after a short summer recess dominated by the prospect of general elections early next year. Even without a firm date, clearly defined alliances or a comprehensive new electoral law the campaign is in full swing. And, not surprisingly, migration to Europe is one of the main themes. During the summer debate centred largely on the actions of interior minister Marco Minniti, who took it upon himself to address almost singlehandedly the issue of migrants arriving in Italy by sea from Libya. The philosopher by education, former member of the Communist Party and man of successive centre-left governments with strong links to the Italian intelligence services unrolled a three-pronged strategy for reducing the human flow. This involved giving greater responsibility to the Libyan coast guards for search and rescue (SAR) and border control, persuading local communities on the main smuggling routes through the former Italian colony to help counter human

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

Interior minister Marco Minniti.

trafficking in exchange for handouts, and imposing a new code of conduct on Italian and international non-governmental organisations operating SAR missions in the central Mediterranean that would in substance reduce their capacity to save lives. If the statistics are anything to go by, Minnitiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s efforts were not in vain: following a constant monthly yearover-year increase in the number of

arrivals since February 2017, in July and August the figures dropped respectively from 23,552 to 11,459 and from 29,294 to 3,914, according to interior ministry data. However, the figures only tell a tiny part of the story. Little or nothing is said about the fate of the thousands who will have set out on the perilous journey despite the tougher conditions and failed. Some will have drowned during the sea crossing; others will now

POLITICS be languishing in inaccessible Libyan detention centres with no guarantee of their fundamental rights, including the right to seek asylum in Europe; others still will have simply been turned back into the desert to die. The lucky ones will have managed to enter Europe by a different route, such as through Morocco to Spain, which could surpass Greece as a gateway for sea arrivals this year. In an open letter to European government leaders published in early September Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) denounced how the push-backs to Libya are “feeding a criminal system of abuse” – as everyone operating and with experience in the sector has always known. The organisation is also one of several NGOs to have suspended migrant SAR missions in the central Mediterranean following the drop in the number of departures. For an in-depth look at the human story behind the figures see Mary Wilsey’s Mediterranean Migrations. From Ithaca to Pozzallo on page six. The drop in arrivals earned Minniti and the Italian government plaudits from European leaders and from Pope Francis on his trip back from Colombia. At a summit in Paris at the end of August European leaders came up with plans to set up identification centres for asylum seekers run by the UN refugee agency and the International Organisation for Migration in Niger and Chad – transit countries on the migration route from west Africa. However, Minniti’s actions created tension in his own Partito Democratico (PD) and in the government. Two colleagues separately marked their distance amid divisions within the majority over migration policy and criticism that the centre left was aping populist right-wing stances in the quest for votes. These divisions crystallised around the long-championed Ius soli and Ius culturae bill extending

The UN envoy to Libya, Martin Kobler, at a detention centre in Tripoli April 2017.

Italian citizenship rights to foreign children living in Italy under certain circumstances. In July prime minister Paolo Gentiloni was forced to delay a hotly contested vote in the senate potentially affecting at least 800,000 youngsters – children born in Italy to resident foreigners and minors who arrive in Italy before the age of 12 and have concluded at least one school cycle – because of opposition from junior government partner Area Popolare (AP). Gentiloni has said he is committed to ensuring the bill is approved in the autumn, but the demands of the 2018 budget law and pre-election climate make this unlikely. Criticism of Minniti is also to be seen in the context of jockeying for position for leadership of the future government in the likely event of an inconclusive result at the ballot box next spring. Former prime minister and PD secretary Matteo Renzi is hoping to make a comeback after being forced to resign in December 2016 following his crushing defeat in a referendum on his controversial constitutional reform. However, his party took a knocking in local elections in June, and under the current electoral system (see box on page 5) it – or indeed any other single party – is unlikely to win a working majority in both the chamber of

deputies and the senate. So unless politicians can agree on a new electoral law before the end of the current parliament – a possibility which many observers doubt – the problem arises of who is best placed to form a stable coalition government. On the centre left Minniti, along with culture minister Dario Franceschini, ex premier Giuliano Amato, industry minister Carlo Calenda, economy minister Pier Carlo Padoan and government undersecretary Maria Elena Boschi, are the main names in the running. Then there is the question of alliances. Former Milan mayor Giuliano Pisapia of Campo Progressista is leading efforts to reunite the fractious and fragmented left wing but dialogue particularly with the PD splinter group Articolo 1 – Movimento Democratico e Progressista (MDP) led by Roberto Speranza is difficult. The back-andforth on alliances and candidates for regional elections in Sicily on 5 November showed up all the cracks. On the centre right the situation appears to be more clear-cut, thanks also to a strong performance in June’s local elections. In Sicily it is represented by a coalition comprising Silvio Berlusconi’s Forza Italia (FI), the antiimmigrant and anti-Europe Lega Nord of Matteo Salvini – which has now October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

POLITICS across the economic sectors. Business confidence improved in manufacturing and services but deteriorated in the retail, trade and construction sector, traditionally one of the drivers and thermometers of the Italian economy. Now it remains to be seen whether the overall positive outlook translates into improvements in the real economy, and indeed whether they will be supported and nurtured by a stable new government next year. Pier Carlo Padoan, the treasury minister, confirms better economic figures.

overtaken FI as the biggest traditional party on the centre right – and the small right-wing Fratelli d’Italia (FdI) led by Giorgia Meloni, and this model is likely to be replicated at national level. However, there is disagreement over its future leadership, with Salvini visibly chomping at the bit and Berlusconi eyeing more moderate, institutional figures such as European parliament president Antonio Tajani. Meanwhile, the anti-establishment Movimento Cinque Stelle (M5S) founded by former comic Beppe Grillo looks to have recovered ground lost in the local election and chamber of deputies deputy speaker Luigi Di Maio, 31, has now moved up to lead the M5S into the elections. However, the movement’s efforts to present itself as a credible alternative for national government continue to be undermined by chaos in Rome. M5S mayor Virgina Raggi has consistently failed to get a grip on the city government and services amid a seemingly never-ending cabinet reshuffles. In Rome too migration has been at the centre of debate over the summer. In late August immigrants clashed with police in the central Piazza dell’Indipendenza after being evicted from a nearby squat after four years. The ugly episode, which fuelled anti-

migrant sentiment in the city just as the numbers of people arriving on southern Italian shores were coming down, highlighted the need to provide adequate accommodation for beneficiaries of international protection, who struggle to enter the formal housing market due to job insecurity and social exclusion. It also reflected a broader housing crisis in Rome which successive city administrations have failed to resolve. However in September a series of positive economic data gave the government a welcome boost. In its August monthly report on the Italian economy ISTAT said in the second quarter of 2017 GDP increased by 0.4 per cent over the previous quarter and by 1.5 per cent year-onyear, recording the highest growth rate over the last six years. The national statistics institute also reported that in July the numbers in employment rose by .3 per cent (or 59,000) compared with June to a total of just over 23 million. However unemployment figures also rose in the same period by .2 per cent to a total rate of 11.3 per cent and youth unemployment by 0.3 per cent to 35.5 per cent. Lastly ISTAT said that in August consumer and business confidence both increased, albeit unevenly

ELECTORAL LAW At present Italy has two distinct electoral laws, one governing the senate and the other the chamber of deputies. These laws, known collectively as the Consultellum, are the result of two separate constitutional court rulings overturning parts of the 2005 Porcellum and 2015 Italicum electoral laws. The latter regulated elections to the chamber of deputies only on the assumption that Renzi’s controversial constitutional reform abolishing the elected senate in favour of a smaller indirectly elected body of regional representatives would be approved at referendum, which it was not). In substance, the laws provide for a system of proportional representation with a winner’s bonus for the party list that polls at least 40 per cent in the chamber of deputies. No winner’s bonus is attributed in the senate. There has been much debate but little consensus in recent months concerning a replacement system, after an agreement between the main parties to introduce a German-style system of proportional representation fell apart. Now the political climate and timing would suggest that a new law is unlikely to be introduced before the elections early next year.

October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

MIGRATION

Mary Wilsey

MEDITERRANEAN MIGRATIONS. FROM ITHACA TO POZZALLO What follows is a copy of my talk at the Keats Shelley House in Piazza di Spagna in May on migration and poetry in the light of my experience working with asylum seekers in Sicily

was delighted when I was asked to give this talk. Firstly because it gave me a chance to look at my experience from a new perspective â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one of poetry â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but also because the museum has been running a series of workshops for refugees and asylum seekers organised by ARTandSEEK, which specialises mainly in art workshops and visits to exhibitions for children. For the Keats Shelley House to host asylum seekers is an extremely imaginative project and one which I hope will be repeated. Where do I come into this? I spent three weeks with a group of Jesuit-organised volunteers in two emergency centres close to Ragusa in southeastern Sicily in September 2016. There are various grades for these centres, but it is enough to say that I was working in two centres which took in men straight after they had been through the socalled hotspot at the port of Pozzallo and while they were going through

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

The main migration routes out of Africa, compiled by MEDU, Medici per i diritti umani, from stories told by the migrants on arrival in Italy.

the first stages of applying for asylum. I worked with about 100 young men, mainly from English and Frenchspeaking west African countries,

from Cameroon, the Central African Republic, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea Bissau, Ivory Coast, Nigeria, Senegal and Sierra Leone.

MIGRATION I could tell my story of those three weeks in many different ways but today, as a guest of the Keats Shelley House, I am going to stick to the literary theme. The most important point I shall illustrate is that behind all the figures on migration, the statistics, the politics and the scandals there are individuals in search of a better life; people with the same feelings we have: sadness, happiness, fear, courage, longing for home and friends, boredom, ambition, anger, impatience, hunger, thirst, illness and a sense of beauty – all the emotions of which poetry is made. The Sicilian landscape, and this particular area in the southeast of the island, lends itself to poetry. You look out over a series of barren rocky hills to the backdrop of the Mediterranean almost whichever way you turn. Today the land looks poor, with abandoned farmhouses and often uncultivated fields. But once it was rich, a part of the Magna Grecia. Then, a millennium or so later, came the magnificence and riches of the Baroque with its cathedrals, churches and palaces, whether in Ragusa (where we were), Syracuse, Modica or Noto. Strung out along the coast are pretty fishing villages (also once more affluent than they are now) and on a clear day in the distance you can see Etna, topped with snow, smoke or maybe flames. But there in the middle of all this history and beauty is the port of Pozzallo, designated since the beginning of 2016 as one of the EU hotspots, or initial points of identification for migrants rescued from the Mediterranean. It is effectively a militarised zone, with strict security, which “processes” – and that is just what it does – those pulled out of the Mediterranean under the guidance of the Italian government and Frontex (the European frontier agency). Journalists are only allowed

Migrants wait to be processed at Pozzallo in Sicily.

in under strict conditions. I have not been behind the security fencing so what I know is second hand from the migrants themselves. After you have landed, you shower. You are checked by a medical team, given a thin tracksuit and plastic flip-flops. You are asked the usual questions – name, date and place of birth etc. You are finger printed, photographed and given a number. You are allocated temporary sleeping arrangements and then you wait in very basic conditions. How long you will wait depends on how many people are rescued at the same time, but it could be several days. Eventually you are told to get on a bus to go... you don’t know where until you get there. It could be north or central Italy or in this case just a few kilometres down the road. It is today’s equivalent of New York’s Ellis Island but much worse. You arrived at Ellis Island – which in its busiest year, 1907, processed 1.2 million people – as a passenger on a fully registered ship, with an official place of departure and arrival. You were not rescued from the sea. You had some sort of identity

otherwise you wouldn’t have been allowed on board. All that you really needed to prove was that you were healthy and not a criminal. Only steerage-class passengers had to go through the process; if you were first and second class you were exempt. You arrive at Pozzallo after you have been rescued from drowning at sea. Your place of departure is probably somewhere in Libya but perhaps Egypt. The chances are that you won’t have any documents, not because you have thrown them away, but because you had to leave home without them or never had or were never allowed them in the first place. You certainly don’t have any luggage. Pozzallo is where the European journey begins for tens of thousands of migrants each year. It is in a sense a place of hope, because those who arrive there are alive, when they might have died. But it is also a place of fear, where all the new rules and regulations kick in, where the future suddenly looks less rosy, where all those who enter have to battle to rebuild their very identity. October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

MIGRATION The Odyssey (and of course the Iliad) is the blueprint for all subsequent western epic poetry. But also take the beautiful short poem Ithaca by the Greek poet, Constantine P. Cavafy (See page 13). Here we have jumped nearly three millennia – from Homer (let’s just say somewhere around 800 BC give or take a century or two) to Cavafy at the end of the 19th century. But the theme is much the same – the journey out and the journey back, along the migrant routes that have been with us since Homo Sapiens walked out of Africa into the Middle East and Europe. Migrants at Ellis Island in New York at the end of the 19th century.

Most of us can prove who we are, or we think we can. But without ID documents, without the institutions at home that will back you up, without being able to prove the requisite facts, how do you demonstrate who you are? And don’t forget that the questions you are asked are probably in Italian, a language you don’t speak even though you speak several others – French, English, some Arabic and your own local dialect. There are interpreters but they are not necessarily the best. And it’s worth pointing out that you will be very lucky if you find someone to answer your most obvious question. Where am I? Officials are trained to ask questions but hate answering them. And then of course once again there is the language problem. Just imagine going through this yourself at any port along the coast of western Africa after four or more days at sea. You probably wouldn’t know where you were, you probably wouldn’t understand the local language and you probably wouldn’t have any idea where you would end up. It’s not a good feeling. So this is Pozzallo of the title. What about Ithaca? There’s no need to guess

why I chose Ithaca. Ithaca is home, the illusive, mythical home of Odysseus (or Ulysses to the Romans), the home to which the hero of the Odyssey is trying to return after the war with Troy, but which for good reasons and bad he takes years to reach. Homer’s Odyssey, that endless journey to reach home, with all the mishaps and adventures along the way, could be the blueprint for all our lives, especially for us ex-pats, as well as for almost everyone I met in Ragusa. Almost all of them wanted to go home one day, richer, more successful and wiser than when they set out. And if Odysseus is as modern today as he was some 2,800 years ago, I can also find the modern-day equivalent of those fickle and jealous, occasionally helpful gods, with their ever-changing friendships and alliances. Substitute the names of Homer’s gods – Zeus, Poseidon, Athene, Cyclops Hyperion etc – with those of any number of today’s politicians and you will see what I mean. Angela Merkel as Athene and Donald Trump, Nigel Farage or Italy’s Matteo Salvini of the Lega Nord as angry Poseidon would fit the bill.

Migration is as old as the human race. So now let me bring John Keats into the story. Keats travelled out but he was never to see his Ithaca again. He died here in Rome, in what is now the Keats Shelley House, with one friend, and not even his best friend – Joseph Severn – as company. For me, and I think for many others, these rooms still contain the vibes of the agonising last weeks of those two Englishmen who never made it home (Severn did eventually journey home, literally speaking, but eventually came back to Rome). And now there they lie today, side by side, in the Non-Catholic cemetery here in Rome, a long way from Ithaca. Maybe for Severn Rome was his Ithaca although it certainly wasn’t for Keats. Keats died on 23 February 1821 from tuberculosis, having reached Naples in late October the previous year, after a dangerous sea journey from England. A winter in Rome was going to give him a better chance of a recovery than a winter in London. The journey was one of hope for both Keats and Severn, in their different ways, and although the sea journey was tough it was nothing like as tough as the journey from Naples to Rome. The boat was immediately put in quarantine for

October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

MIGRATION

Asylum seekers from a centre at Castelnuovo di Porto, north Rome, at the Keats Shelley House.

10 days when it berthed because of an outbreak of typhus in London. The land route to Rome was rough and prone to attack by brigands. Keats was ill and very weak, money was short and Severn had to walk much of the way to give Keats more room in the carriage.

description of the last phases of TB. “Eventually, liquid replaces the lungs, the suffering patients cannot get enough oxygen, respiratory failure occurs, they can no longer breathe and they drown. It’s painful, it’s drawn out. It’s an awful way to die.”

On arrival in Rome they were fortunate that accommodation had already been found for them in Piazza di Spagna, but they considered it expensive and they were sharing with an unhelpful landlady, who was probably scared witless at finding a suicidal and often raving young lodger with TB (he was 25 at the time) in the front rooms of her house.

Keats struggled with death for days, for much longer than anyone thought possible, with Joseph Severn looking on.

How was she to know that this dying man would eventually go down in history as one of the world’s great poets. Their doctor was kindly but not up to the task. They had no friends and had endless difficulty getting money from home. Correspondence with England was difficult and slow. Does this story sound familiar? But let me take Keats’s story to its natural conclusion before I return to today’s asylum seekers. Here is a graphic

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

Now to come back to the present. One of the asylum seekers I worked with had come from Nigeria with a friend from school. They took seven months to do the journey together overland to Libya, which is quite quick compared with some who travel for years. I don’t know the details of the journey because I made it my policy never to ask but to wait to be told. But I know, because I was told, that the school friend drowned in the Mediterranean in summer 2016. I never knew him but it brings the horrors of that journey very close to be able to put an identity, if not a face, to one of the 5,000 migrants who are thought to have drowned in the Mediterranean in 2016. Exact numbers are never possible.

How can they be when there are no passenger lists on those unseaworthy, illegal boats, no way of telling who has embarked and who has not disembarked, when there are only inexact eyewitness accounts to go on. When I met this asylum seeker he had been rescued a few weeks earlier. He was perhaps one of the hardest workers in the centre. He was forwardlooking, optimistic, totally sure of his Christian faith and certain that things would get better. But after almost a year of waiting he has been told that he has not been granted asylum. What now? He will appeal his case in court and is now waiting once again, rather like Odysseus. He is losing faith in the system and its people and his hope is changing to despair, frustration and sometimes apathy. Another man I met in the same centre was a printer back in Nigeria until his office was bombed and he felt that he had no alternative but to leave home. He left behind a beautiful wife (the modern-day Penelope of the Odyssey) and a four-year old daughter (the equivalent of Odysseus’s son Telemachus). When I first met him he

MIGRATION was desperate because there was still no WIFI connection in the centre so he couldn’t contact his family. His solace was music to which he would dance, plugged into his earphones, removed from the real world around him. He was an astute politician, a match for Odysseus himself. He rejected a plan put forward by the NGO that organised the centre to elect a representative committee of three to be the interface between the 30 or so asylum seekers and the centre’s administration. No one was going to represent him, he said. He would speak for himself. And speak he did. Why, he asked me (he saw me as the representative of the old colonial power), why had “we” abandoned our colonial “offspring”? Parents didn’t do that sort of thing, he said. “We” (colonial power) should have been around like good parents to help their children whenever they needed it, even if they didn’t want it. How far will he have to go before he can return to his Penelope? And will his daughter have to set out alone like Telemachus to find out what has happened to her father? For another asylum seeker in the centre the longing for home was different but no less acute. He was a cook before he set out for Europe and he wanted to start a restaurant in Italy as soon as he was given the green light to go. Food and home cooking. Feasting goes on in the Odyssey but we know little of Keats’s culinary tastes. However we do know that he threw a meal out of the window into Piazza di Spagna because he considered it so disgusting. I suspect each one of us would mention home food as what we miss most when we are away from home. One of the best examples is Babington’s Tearooms, Piazza di Spagna 23, just across the Spanish Steps from the Keats Shelley House

Just a detail but an interesting one – food was brought in three times a day from an outside caterer. Everyone at the centre had to sign that they had received it. It was the same every week, balanced enough, but oh so bland. We ate with the asylum seekers at lunch and even now I still can’t face a plate of pasta and sugo. If they could have done so I am sure each one of them would have copied Keats and thrown their food out of the window. But unlike Keats there was no hope they would get a better meal next time. I know they often fed their meals to the local cats.

the administration that he had an allergy (their English wasn’t very good and he had no Italian) he was told not to make such a fuss and be “grateful” (a word we heard too often). He was tough, belligerent, a bit intimidating and wouldn’t take no for an answer. Eventually I was asked to take him to the hospital. Luckily the pronto soccorso was quiet that morning and it was pretty obvious to me that he knew more than the doctors around him. He also knew what medication he needed and in what order he had to take each drug. We were out within an hour clutching one box of pills, given free of charge, and went off to get another that was too specialised to hand out on the national health service. A victory of a sort in our odyssey, his and mine, and as we went off to the local bar to celebrate – he with water and me with a coffee – we were both happy. But not for long. As soon as we got back to the centre there was the problem of how they would accommodate his dietary needs.

Then there was the hospital lab technician from Nigeria’s capital Abuja. I had to take him to the local accident and emergency because he was suffering from a wheat allergy; pasta was the problem. Although he repeatedly told

I could go on and on; I could tell you about how my innocent suggestion of starting a football tournament led to an anti-western diatribe, how a bar of soap became a major issue or how misunderstandings over water nearly

set up at the end of the 19th century to provide English teas for English expats. The day I saw the guys in Ragusa the happiest was when we took them to buy their local ingredients from the market – yes west African spices have arrived in southeastern Sicily – so that they could cook us all a typical home meal to replace the endless diet of pasta.

Cont. page 13

Migrants rescued from the Mediterranean in spring 2016.

October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

MIGRATION led to a serious incident. These were all simple failures on our part that could so easily have been avoided had there been better understanding, sensitivity and communication. But to bring the theme of literature full circle I shall end with a rather more optimistic story. After home food I suppose what I missed most when I first came to Italy were books in English. One afternoon an asylum seeker complained to me that there was nothing worth reading at the centre either in English or Italian – how right he was. So I said that he could have my copy of the great Nigerian classic by Chinua Achebe Things fall apart and then I would try to find an Italian translation so that he could begin to practise his Italian by comparing the English with the Italian version – exactly as I had done when I first came to Italy. He clearly found it very surprising that I had not only read one of Nigeria’s great classics but that I also had it with me in Ragusa. This made me think. I would automatically have expected him to know something about English literature. But it never occurred to him that I might have heard of, let alone read, a Nigerian classic. But the fact that I had made a difference to him, like home cooking. It made me think that integration is not just a one-way street. It is not just an effort that has to be made by the guests – it was the NGO’s official policy to call everyone in their centres a guest – but it is also one that has to be made by their hosts.

This talk was given in May 2017 by kind invitation of Keats Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 36, www.keats-shelley-house.org.

Ithaca by Costantino Cavafy As you set out for Ithaca hope the voyage is a long one, full of adventure, full of discovery. Laistrygonians and Cyclops, angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them: you’ll never find things like that on your way as long as you keep your thoughts raised high, as long as a rare excitement stirs your spirit and your body. Laistrygonians and Cyclops, wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them unless you bring them along inside your soul, unless your soul sets them up in front of you. Hope the voyage is a long one. May there be many a summer morning when, with what pleasure, what joy, you come into harbors seen for the first time; may you stop at Phoenician trading stations to buy fine things, mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony, sensual perfume of every kind – as many sensual perfumes as you can; and may you visit many Egyptian cities to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars. Keep Ithaca always in your mind. Arriving there is what you are destined for. But do not hurry the journey at all. Better if it lasts for years, so you are old by the time you reach the island, wealthy with all you have gained on the way, not expecting Ithaca to make you rich. Ithaca gave you the marvelous journey. Without her you would not have set out. She has nothing left to give you now. And if you find her poor, Ithaca won’t have fooled you. Wise as you will have become, so full of experience, you will have understood by then what these Ithacas mean. For anyone interested in hearing Sean Connery reading Ithaca by Cavafy here is the link www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2UDVAC31Zs

October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ROME’S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS

FOR MORE DETAILS SEE WWW.MUSEIINCOMUNEROMA.IT AND WWW.BENICULTURALI.IT.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. PATRONS OF THE ARTS IN THE VATICAN MUSEUMS Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. STATE MUSEUMS BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. BORGHESE MUSEUM Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. CASTEL S. ANGELO MUSEUM Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

CRYPTA BALBI Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. ETRUSCAN MUSEUM AT VILLA GIULIA Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. PALAZZO CORSINI Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

MUSEO NAZIONALE D’ARTE ORIENTALE Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

PALAZZO ALTEMPS Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. PALAZZO BARBERINI Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. CITY MUSEUMS CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. GALLERIA COMUNALE D’ARTE MODERNA Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. MUSEO BARRACCO Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. MUSEO CANONICA Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). MUSEO DEI FORI IMPERIALI AND TRAJAN’S MARKETS Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. MUSEO NAPOLEONICO Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. MUSEO DI ROMA – PALAZZO BRASCHI Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS CASA DI GOETHE Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. DORIA PAMPHILJ GALLERY Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. GALLERIA COLONNA Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

design@menexa.it · img designlazy

Rome will be ﬁlled again with contemporary art romeartweek.com | October 9th - 14th 2017

Rome Art Week is an innovative project that will involve the whole city of Rome through free events in art galleries and open studios of professional artists. The public will be able to ﬁnd all the info through the site romeartweek.com with the full calendar of the events taking place during the week and with the interactive map.

#romeartweek IDEATION

PATRONAGES

SUPPORTERS

Associazione

MEDIA PARTNERS

PARTNERS

FRIENDS

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES 1/9 UNOSUNOVE 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. ARCHITETTURA ARTE MODERNA Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. ASSOCIAZIONE CULTURALE VALENTINA MONCADA Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. DOROTHY CIRCUS GALLERY Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. EX ELETTROFONICA This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. FEDERICA SCHIAVO GALLERY Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. FONDAZIONE GIULIANI PER L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. FONDAZIONE PASTIFICO CERERE This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

GALLERIA FRAMMENTI D’ARTE Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

FONDAZIONE VOLUME! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

FRANZ PALUDETTO Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. FRUTTA GALLERY This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53, tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com. GAGOSIAN GALLERY The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

GALLERIA MARIE-LAURE FLEISCH This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. GALLERIA DELLA TARTARUGA Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. GALLERIA IL SEGNO Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. GIACOMO GUIDI ARTE CONTEMPORANEA This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

NOMAS FOUNDATION Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

IL PONTE CONTEMPORANEA Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

OPERATIVA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

LA NUOVA PESA Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC MAJA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. MAGAZZINO D’ARTE MODERNA Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. MATÈRIA Matèria specialises in contemporary photographic practice and visual culture. Via Tiburtina 149, www.materiagallery.com. MONITOR This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org. MONSERRATO ARTE ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com. PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com. RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. SALA 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. SPAZIO NUOVO Gallery featuring international photographers who create dialogue between classical and contemporary art. Via d’Ascanio 20, tel. 0689572855, www. spazionuovo.net. S.T. FOTO LIBRERIA GALLERIA Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it. STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. THE GALLERY APART This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TRALEVOLTE This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. VALENTINA BONOMO Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. WUNDERKAMMERN This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net. Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

WHERE TO GO IN ROME

alongside their publications as well as scripts, sketches and layout designs. The works on display come from Japan, North Korea, South Korea, India, China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines and Singapore. The exhibition also includes illustrations from emerging comic book scenes such as Bhutan, Cambodia, East Timor, Mongolia and Vietnam. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

EXHIBITIONS BERNINI 31 Oct-4 Feb Rome’s Galleria Borghese celebrates the 20th anniversary of its reopening with an exhibition dedicated to Gian Lorenzo Bernini, whose spectacular sculptures are among the highlights of the museum’s collection. The exhibition is expected to include numerous loans of Bernini works from important international collections. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it. KEVIN MURRAY 21 Oct-4 Nov Rome-based Australian painter Kevin Murray stages an exhibition of paintings at Studio Minerva under the theme Landscapes of Mood. The 30 Roman landscapes on display capture evocative moments along the Via Appia Antica, from summer twilight to spring mornings. Murray, whose style is reminiscent of the Scuola Romana movement, has lived in Rome since 1960. For exhibition information contact dellascala4@gmail.com, tel. 339 / 1960899. Open 10.30-12.00, 17.00-18.30. Studio Minerva, Via Pietro Micca 6.

Landscapes of Mood by Kevin Murray at Studio Minerva.

BETTY WOODMAN 20 Oct-Nov Galleria Lorcan O’Neill shows a special group of works by celebrated American artist Betty Woodman, one year on from her joint exhibition with Kiki Smith. Woodman, who for the past 40 years has been based between Tuscany and New York, combines lacquered ceramic and painted canvas to make colourful three-dimensional works. Galleria

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

Monet exhibition at the Vittoriano. Ninfee e Agapanti.

Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com. GIUSEPPE ARCIMBOLDO 19 Oct-11 Feb Palazzo Barberini dedicates an exhibition to Giuseppe Arcimboldo (1526-1593), the Italian painter best known for creating imaginative portrait heads comprising objects such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, fish and books. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www.barberinicorsini.org. MONET 19 Oct-28 Jan The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition devoted to Monet, the father of Impressionism, with some 60 works from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, including landscapes, portraits and his celebrated garden series of water lilies. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www. ilvittoriano.com.

Betty Woodman exhibition at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. The Dining Room #2.

È SOLO UN INIZIO: 1968 3 Oct-14 Jan On the 50th anniversary of the 1968 protests that shook London, Paris, Berlin and Rome, the Galleria Nazionale examines the role of art within the social and political context of the era. Curated by Ester Coen, the exhibition features important Italian and international artists belonging to movements such as minimalism, conceptualism, land art and arte povera. The artists include Joan Jonas, Jannis Kounellis, Yayoi Kusama, Sol LeWitt, Richard Long, Richard Moore, Luigi Ontani, Christo, Giosetta Fioroni and Andy Warhol. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www. lagallerianazionale.com.

HOKUSAI: SULLE ORME DEL MAESTRO 12 Oct-14 Jan The Ara Pacis displays more than 200 works by Katsushika Hokusai (17601849) including The Great Wave and One Hundred Views of Mount Fuji. The exhibition comprises Hokusai’s entire collected drawings and paintings, displayed in two phases to protect the most fragile works, including two different versions of The Great Wave. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. MANGASIA: WONDERLANDS OF ASIAN COMICS 7 Oct-21 Jan A comprehensive look at Asian comic books, displaying original cartoons

Hokusai at the Vittoriano. La cascata di Onō lungo la strada Kiso.

sampietrini cobblestones. Diodato takes his cue from the Latin phrase pedibus calcantibus, meaning “on foot, with one’s own legs”, to offer a virtual walk from Piazza Montecitorio to Piazza del Collegio Romano in central Rome, with coloured footprints on casts of sampietrini. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

Mangasia exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Kuniyoshi warrior sword in teeth, courtesy Library of Congress.

SEPE: SLEEPING THROUGH THE WAR 29 Sept-12 Nov Galleria Varsi launches its new spaces with a solo show by Polish urban artist Sepe. The Warsaw-based artist is known for his pictorial style reflecting a critical vision of contemporary society, distorting the human figure with spray, acrylic, ink, pencil and markers. The Varsi exhibition comprises reflections on the nature of war, drawn from Sepe’s interaction with local cultures during his art travels around the world. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, www.galleriavarsi.it. ‘77 23 Sept-14 Jan The works of photographer Tano D’Amico and artist Pablo Echaurren recall the turbulent events in Italy in 1977, a period of social and political turmoil during the so-called Years of Lead, an era fuelled by left-wing and right-wing terrorism. Museo Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 065816563, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

SILENTLY CLOSE ARE SOME PARTICLES 20 Sept-11 Nov Curated by Marinella Paderni, this group show explores the subtle changes and silent transformations in our everyday lives, examining the role played by art in providing insights into what is otherwise invisible or imperceptible. The exhibition features the work of three visual artists: Letizia Cariello, Silvia Camporesi and Jakub Woynarowski, whose diverse creations are united by the study of slowly-developing events. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. BEDWYR WILLIAMS: HUUUUUUGE THANKS! 16 Sept-11 Nov Welsh multimedia artist Bedwyr Williams, whose work combines quirky installations and stand-up comedy, presents a show at Rome’s Frutta Gallery. His exhibition takes as its starting-point the line: “A best man takes Ecstasy at a Wedding and Dies.” Frutta Gallery, Via dei Salumi 53, 06 45508934, www.fruttagallery.com. GIUSEPPE DE MATTIA 15 Sept-17 Nov Matèria Gallery presents Dispositivo per non vedere bene (Device to impede a good view), an experimental

artwork by Giuseppe De Mattia. The installation, showcased in the gallery’s two rooms and courtyard, questions the role of photography as a tool for documenting reality, with a particular focus on Rome whose historic beauty is sometimes offset by its less photogenic contemporary state. Matèria Gallery, Via Tiburtina 149, www.materiagallery. com.

Sepe exhibition at Galleria Varsi which has just moved to Via Grotta Pinta 38. The Meaning of Life.

BORGATE 14 Sept-31 Oct The Casa della Memoria e della Storia stages a photographic exhibition by Pasquale Liguori, who takes visitors far off Rome’s tourist trail to highlight the city’s little-visited suburbs. The 12 districts or borgate represented were all created during the fascist era and include Acilia, Gordiani, Pietralata, Primavalle, Prenestino, Quarticciolo, S. Basilio, Tiburtino III, Tor Marancia, Trullo, Tufello, Val Melaina. Casa della Memoria e della Storia, Via S. Francesco di Sales 5, Trastevere, tel. 060608.

ROWENA HARRIS: SOFT BOUNDARIES 23 Sept-22 Dec The Gallery Apart presents its second solo show by Rowena Harris whose exhibition illustrates the ever-blurring boundaries between real and virtual, material and digital. The Gallery Apart, Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. BALDO DIODATO: PEDIBUS CALCANTIBUS 21 Sept-21 Oct Exhibition by Baldo Diodato whose 12 works – one frottage and 11 casts – are inspired by the capital’s

‘77 exhibition at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Ragazza e carabinieri by Tano D’Amico. October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

STILL SHOWING REAL BODIES 30 Sept-10 Feb Exhibition dedicated to the human body and its organs, muscles and skeletal system. The highlight of the 350 exhibits is the series of 12 entire bodies immortalised in a variety of sporting positions, such as running and jumping, demonstrating how our muscles and tendons work. The exhibition also provides anatomical insights into the human reproduction process as well as showing the impact of disease on internal organs. There are also four other parallel exhibits at the same venue, aimed primarily at younger visitors: Dinosaur Invasion, Cosmos Discovery, Scientopolis, and the Brikmania lego show. Guido Reni District, Via Guido Reni 7, www. realbodies.it. ENJOY: L’ARTE INCONTRA IL DIVERTIMENTO 23 Sept-25 Feb With the subtitle Art Meets Fun, this immersive exhibition promises modern art works and site-specific installations by some of the “most prominent and provocative protagonists of contemporary art”. Highlights of the show include the light sculptures of Alexander Calder, the neverending labyrinth of Leandro Erlich’s mirrors, the disturbing eye installations of Tony Oursler and the spectacular illusory effects of TeamLab’s light works. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www. chiostrodelbramante.it. PICASSO: TRA CUBISMO E CLASSICISMO 1915-1925 22 Sept-21 Jan The Scuderie del Quirinale presents one of the largest exhibitions ever dedicated to Picasso in Italy, a century after the artist set foot in the

country. The show examines Italy’s long-term impact on Picasso’s work – his inspiration from ancient Roman statues and erotic frescoes in Pompeii – and his private life – he met his first wife, the Russian ballet dancer Olga Khokhlova in Rome while he designed the costumes and sets for the ballet Parade. The 100 works on display range fro 1915 to 1925, comprising Cubism to Classicism, with loans from major museums in London, Paris, New York, Berlin and Barcelona. The show includes masterpieces such as Olga in an Armchair (1917), Léonide Massine as Harelquin (1917), Two Women Running on the Beach (1922), and Harelquin with mirror (1923). In addition to the Scuderie, Palazzo Barberini hosts an immense canvas that Picasso painted as the backdrop for Parade, the reason for his arrival in Italy in February 1917. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0639967500, www. scuderiequirinale.it. DAVIDE BALULA: IRON LEVELS 21 Sept-18 Nov The Gagosian shows new works by French artist Davide Balula who is known for his paintings, sculptures, photographs, performances, and sitespecific installations that combine elements of natural matter with manmade structures. Balula’s Rome exhibition comprises an “experiential journey, intimately connected with the architecture of the space.” Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. TRA CIGLIA E PENSIERO 18 Sept-11 Nov AlbumArte presents an exhibition by the Lithuanian artist Eglė Budvytytė whose video works are shown in Italy for the first time. The selection of performance videos reflect on the social and economic aspects of everyday life, blending reality with

Baldo Diodato exhibition at Mac Maja Arte Contemporanea. Stella Rossa. See page 21.

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

fiction. AlbumArte, Via Flaminia 122, tel. 063243882, www.albumarte.org.

Picasso exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale. Paul en Arlequin ©Succession Picasso, by SIAE 2017.

FROM DUCHAMP TO CATTELAN 28 June-29 Oct For the second consecutive year the Palatine hill hosts an outdoor exhibition of contemporary art until the end of October. This convergence of ancient and contemporary unites 100 artists, from 25 countries, whose large-scale installations, paintings and photographs are exposed under two themes decided by curator Alberto Fiz: Portraits and Hands. The exhibition includes work by international artists such as Gilbert and George, Allan McCollum, Marina Abramovic, Barbara Kruger and Joseph Kosuth, alongside Italian big names Mario Schifano, Mauro Staccioli and Maurizio Cattelan. Forum Palatino, Via di S. Gregorio 30, www.electa.it/mostre/alt-artecontemporanea-al-palatino. YONA FRIEDMAN. MOBILE ARCHITECTURE, PEOPLE’S ARCHITECTURE 23 June-29 Oct Exhibition of models, drawings and installations by Yona Friedman, the Hungarian-born French architect, urban planner and designer who was influential in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Friedman is best known for his theory of mobile architecture, a utopian concept which promoted the building of superstructures suspended over existing cities to avoid the need for extra land space. Central to his manifesto were three requirements: buildings should touch the ground

intensive and enduring relationship with Italy until her death in March last year. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. SILVIA CODIGNOLA: AUTOBIOGRAFIA DELLA MADRE 17 June-22 Oct Rome-based artist Silvia Codignola’s exhibition of 40 paintings, drawings and sculptures focuses on the relationship between mother and baby, examining the newborn’s journey into childhood. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www. museocarlobilotti.it.

Enjoy exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. The Centrifugal Soul (detail) by Mat Collishaw.

over a minimum area, be capable of being dismantled and moved, and be alterable as required by the individual occupant. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. VISIONI GEOMETRICHE 23 June-26 Nov MACRO presents the fifth installment in the series of exhibitions comprising works from its collection. The show includes around 25 paintings and sculptures, dating from the early 1960s onwards, by Italian artists whose work is linked by geometric themes. See

Piranesi exhibition at Palazzo Braschi. Veduta interna della Camera sepolcrale nella Villa Casali. Photo Andrea Jemolo.

cover of this edition. MACRO, Via Nizza, 138, www.museomacro.org. ZAHA HADID AND ITALY 23 June-28 Jan MAXXI hosts an exhibition dedicated to the Italian projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, including the recently-opened Terminal Marittimo in Salerno, the Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones, the almost complete City Life project in Milan and the MAXXI building itself. The exhibition comprises plans and three-dimensional models designed by the Iraqi architect, who had an

PIRANESI: LA FABBRICA DELL’UTOPIA 16 June-15 Oct Palazzo Braschi presents more than 200 prints by architect and engraver Giovan Battista Piranesi (1720-1778), known for his masterful understanding of perspective and the almost threedimensional quality of his engravings. The exhibition features Piranesi’s celebrated Vedute di Roma series, including the archaeological heritage of the capital, where the Venetian artist moved in 1740. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. LA BELLEZZA RITROVATA 2 June-26 Nov Art works retrieved by the special unit of Italy’s carabinieri police tasked with the discovery and return of artefacts removed from public and private collections. The exhibition is divided into three sections: works

Silvia Codignola exhibition at Museo Carlo Bilotti. Madre notturna grande. October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

recovered after theft; works saved from earthquake-hit areas of central Italy; and the cultural damage caused by wars. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www. museicapitolini.org. IMPERDIBILE MARILYN 16 May-5 Nov More than 400 objects that once belonged to Marilyn Monroe offer a glimpse into the private life of the enigmatic Hollywood actress. Palazzo degli Esami, Via Girolamo Induno 4, Trastevere. PIERO GILARDI: NATURE FOREVER 13 April-15 Oct This exhibition by Piero Gilardi offers a critical examination of today’s society of consumption and technology, highlighting the complex relationship between man and nature. Centred around themes such as ecology, artistic research, and social and political commitment, the exhibition comprises significant works spanning the Turin artist’s 50-year career in art and activism. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it/en. VIAGGIO NEI FORI 13 April-12 Nov Two outdoor events with music, light projections and historical commentary will be held at the Forum of Caesar and the Forum of Augustus every night until 12 November. The Viaggio nei Fori initiative attracted 140,000 spectators last year, according to the city. Details can be found on website, www. viaggioneifori.it. COLOSSEO: UN’ICONA 8 March-7 Jan This exhibition uses installations, models and artefacts to shed light on how the Colosseum was used in the centuries after the fall of the Roman empire. The show includes recently-discovered evidence of a 12th-century fortress, which was built into the arena’s ruins by the powerful Frangipane family but collapsed in the 1349 earthquake. The exhibition recounts how the amphitheatre was pillaged for stone, how it was used for stables, slaughterhouses and workshops during the mediaeval era. Located on the first level of the Colosseum, the show also reveals how the arena was completely overgrown by the time the Grand Tourists arrived from Britain and northern Europe in the 18th century. Colosseum, www.coopculture.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com. For more What’s On see page 26.

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

ART NEWS ROME ART WEEK The second edition of Rome Art Week (RAW), the contemporary art festival of free cultural events in Roman galleries and studios, takes place from 9-14 October. The collaborative, independent and non-profit venture attracted more than 25,000 visitors last year and recently received the support of Italy’s culture ministry. The first edition registered 124 galleries and cultural institutions, with 209 artists producing 207 art events, 153 open studio visits and 99 exhibitions. For details see website, www.romeartweek.com. GIORNATA DEL CONTEMPORANEO The 13th edition of Italy’s Giornata del Contemporaneo is held in modern art galleries in Rome and across Italy on Saturday 14 October. Organised by AMACI, the Association of Italian Contemporary Art Museums, the initiative also involves commercial art galleries and associations staying open late with a variety of shows and performances. In Rome many events will form part of the Rome Art Week programme. For details see website, www.amaci.org.

Derek Bruno’s mural on Via Ostiense is no more.

ROME LOSES DEREK BRUNO MURAL A 2013 mural by Italian-American street artist Derek Bruno has been removed from its Via Ostiense location after the owners of the wall, Italgas, obliterated the colourful geometric image with beige paint. The 7x3m mural was commissioned by 999Contemporary, the Rome cultural association behind the Museo Abusivo dai Rom street art project across the Tiber in Portuense and Big City Life in Tor Marancia. 999 director Stefano Antonelli said he had not been informed that Italgas planned to remove the mural, which had become tarnished in recent years by graffiti tags, saying that “perhaps we could have found a solution together.” DOROTHY CIRCUS CELEBRATES 10 YEARS Rome’s Dorothy Circus Gallery, which specialises in international pop-surrealist art, celebrates its 10th anniversary by holding a special group exhibition in Rome in mid-November and launching a new gallery in London. The Rome show will feature a selection of the gallery’s stable of pop surrealists from around the world including Britain, Canada, Italy, Russia and the US. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.it. GALLERIA VARSI MOVES Rome’s Galleria Varsi leaves behind its base at Via di S. Salvatore in Campo after five busy years. It has not moved too far and remains in the Campo de’ Fiori neighbourhood, reopening on Via di Grotta Pinta 38. It launches with an exhibition by Polish street artist Sepe (see page 21). Varsi has hosted regular shows by noted street artists from around the world since 2013. The gallery’s founder Massimo Scrocca says it has become well established on the international scene, particularly among American visitors. For details of upcoming shows see website, www.galleriavarsi.it.

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CLASSICAL The seasons of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome are now starting up again. Some churches in the historic centre also have excellent concerts this autumn. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia. it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). The new season starts on 5 Oct. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. Usually starts in Nov. RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it. Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com. Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA NARUHIKO KAWAGUCHI 6 Oct The winner of the 2013 Rome international piano competition performs a programme of music by Mozart, Clementi, Bach and Albeniz. Sala Affreschi, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org. BEETHOVENKLAVIER II 15-Oct-17 Dec This series is the follow-up to the programme which started last year to perform all of Beethoven’s 32 sonatas. In some performances the Beethoven piece is combined with a new contemporary piece of music. The first evening in this second series is on 15 Oct with Gabriele Carcano playing an early and late Beethoven sonata, opus 28 (Pastoral) and 106 (Hammerklavier) together with the premiere of a sonata by Matteo’s Manzitti, the Genoese composer, conductor and teacher. Beethoven’s piano sonatas were written between 1795 and 1822 and are considered and important bridge between private performances for a small audience and public ones in a concert hall. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA RE RUGGERO BY SZYMANOWSKI 5-9 Oct The orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia conducted by its musical director Antonio Pappano open the season with this opera in semi-scenic form as part of the Romaeuropa festival. Szymanowski’s opera is sometimes known as the Sicilian drama and was written between 1918 and 1924 by the Polish composer. A Guardian review of the Covent Garden premiere described the opera as “a dangerously intoxicating music drama,” a struggle between conservatism and sensuality, between Christian orthodoxy and pagan abandon, between duty and personal desire.” Pappano conducted the opera at the 2015 Covent Garden premiere directed by Kasper Holten. An integral part of the semi-scenic version at its S. Cecilia opening is the real-time video project designed by Nicolò Massazza and Iacopo Bedogni of Masbedo. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com. HAYDN 2023 8 Oct Giovanni Antonini conducts the Kammerorchester Basel playing another three Haydn symphonies – the 9th, the 65th and the 67th – in his attempt to perform all 107 the Haydn’s symphonies before the tercentenary of the composer’s birth in 2023. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. EÖTVÖS AND MAHLER 12-16 Oct Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus playing Alle Vittime Senza Nome by Peter Eötvös dedicated to all the migrants who have died at sea in recent years. It is combined with Mahler’s sixth symphony often knows as the Tragic symphony, even though it was composed between 1903-04, during what was a particularly serene and happy period of his life. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com. MARIO BRUNELLO 2-4 Nov Italian cellist Mario Brunello plays a programme of music by Brahms, Schumman and Mendelssohn with the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Vasily Petrenko. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI ANNA CATERINA ANTONACCI 14 Oct The season beings with a recital by the Italian soprano singing music by Corelli, Colonna, Biber, Monteverdi and Lully. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Naruhiko Kawaguchi (photographed here at the Monteverdi Festival in Cremona this year) plays Bach at the Accademia Filarmonica Romana on 6 Oct.

ENSEMBLE ARS LUDI READY MADE EMSEMBLE 17 Oct Two Stravinsky works and the premiere of a piece by Marco Filotei, music critic, musicologist and composer, called Nessun luogo è lontano. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www. concertiiuc.it. UNA SERATA CON ENNIO MORRICONE 21 Oct A less misleading title would have been an evening of Morricone’s music. There are three of his works, including the Rome premiere of his Variante per 2 piano forte e archi, and two by Petrassi but Morricone is not be conducting. The Orchestra Roma Sinfonetta is conducted by Gabriele Bonolis. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www. concertiiuc.it. IL FLAUTO MAGICO ELIO E ENSEMBLE BERLIN 24 Oct This is a modern reworking of Mozart’s Magic Flute with Elio as narrator and baritone and Julia Bauer soprano with the Ensemble Berlin. There will be a talk by Elio and Bauer at 11.00 before the performance. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

ISABELLE FAUST AND KRISTIAN BEZUIDENHOUT 4 Nov Isabelle Faust, violin, and Kristian Bezuidenhout, harpsichord, play five Bach sonatas. Bezuidenhout is an early keyboard specialist. He is equally at home on the harpsichord, the fortepiano and the modern piano and is very eloquent at explaining the differences. Their programme at the IUC is similar to one they performed at the Wigmore Hall in London in 2016. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

PROCOL HARUM 9 Oct Procol Harum come to Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica as part of the band’s 50th anniversary tour. Formed in England in 1967, the group is best known for its massive hit A Whiter Shade of Pale which become one of a handful of singles to sell more than 10 million copies worldwide. The band’s sound embraces numerous musical styles, from progressive rock to blues, with baroque and classical influences. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com.

CONCERTS IN ROME CHURCHES There are various concerts and festivals in several churches in Rome this autumn. S. Agnese in Agone Liszt and Friends concerts every Fri until 22 Dec, in the Sagrestia del Borromini. Capriccio Italiano, every Tues in Oct, in the Sagrestia del Borromini. S. Angelo Methodist Church Italian Bel Canto and Romantic piano every Fri at Ponte S. Angelo. St Paul’s Within the Walls Luminaria: Music by candlelight every Sun, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Napoli, www.stpaulsrome.it.

CODY CHESNUTT 10-11 Oct Unplugged in Monti presents two acoustic performances by Atlanta musician Cody ChesnuTT at the intimate setting of Blackmarket in the capital’s Monti district. The artist’s musical style blends elements of rock, funk, soul, hip hop and blues. There is a limited amount of tickets which must be reserved in advance. For details see Unplugged in Monti website. Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www. unpluggedinmonti.com.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ BRIAN HOWE 6 Oct This English rock singer-songwriter, best known as former lead vocalist with veteran rock acts Bad Company and Ted Nugent, performs at Jailbreak. Via Tiburtina 870, tel. 0640801376, www.jailbreakliveclub.com.

DIANA KRALL 13 Oct The multi-award winning Canadian jazz pianist and singer Diana Krall returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica four years after her last concert there. Known for her contralto vocals, Krall has sold over 15 million albums worldwide and is the only jazz singer to have eight albums debuting at the top of the Billboard Jazz Albums. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com. MANUEL VALERA TRIO 13-14 Oct The Alexanderplatz, Rome’s premier jazz venue, hosts two concerts by the Manuel Valera Trio. Led by Cuban

Cold Specks at Teatro Quirinetta on 21 Oct.

pianist and composer Valera, the jazz trio also features Miami drummer E.J. Strickland and Austrian bass player Hans Glawischnig. Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604, www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it. COLD SPECKS 21 Oct Teatro Quirinetta hosts a concert by Canadian singer Cold Specks whose music has been described as “doom-soul”. Her debut album I Predict a Graceful Expulsion was released in 2012 and her second album, Neuroplasticity, came out in 2014. Cold Specks took her stage name from a line in Joyce’s Ulysses. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5. COM TRUISE 28 Oct Spring Attitude Festival presents a show by New York electronic musician Seth Haley, aka Com Truise, at Rome’s Lanificio 159. Truise comes to Rome as part of his international tour to present his latest album Iteration. Pre-sale tickets available from 4 September, see Spring Attitude Facebook page for details. Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, www.lanificio159.com. MOGWAI 28 Oct On the scene for more than 20 years, this Scottish band is known for its “postrock” sound, a style characterised by a fusion of traditional rock music with textured rhythm and melodies, relying on instrumental effects such as distortion. The band achieved major success with albums such as Come on, Die Young (1999) and Hardcore Will Never Die, But You Will (2011). For tickets see Ticketone website, www.ticketone.it. Atlantico, Via dell’Oceano Atlantico 271.

Procol Harum perform at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

COLDCUT 27 Oct The pioneering electronic music act, October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

composed of Matt Black and Jonathan More, is considered the first star of UK electronic dance music due to the duo’s innovative style. Monk, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it.

Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds perform at the Palalottomatica on 8 Nov.

FINK 2 Nov The English singer, songwriter, guitar player, producer and dj Fink plays at Teatro Quirinetta. Fink started out in the late 1990s recording electronic music but now his sound incorporates a range of genres such as blues, dub, folk and indie. He is best known for the 2007 track This is the Thing and the 2011 album Perfect Darkness. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5. NICK CAVE AND THE BAD SEEDS 8 Nov Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds return to Rome, four years after their last concert here, as part of their eight-week European tour. Best known for hits such as Red Right Hand and The Mercy Song, the Australian alternative rock band comes to Rome’s Palalottomatica to promote songs from their latest album Skeleton Tree. For tickets see Ticketone website, www.ticketone.it. Palalottomatica, Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi 1.

LAMB 10 Nov Electronic music duo from Manchester, comprising producer Andy Barlow and singer-songwriter Lou Rhodes. Known for hit singles Górecki and Gabriel, the group’s sound is influenced by trip hop, drum and bass and jazz. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com. JAMES BLUNT 12 Nov James Blunt returns to Rome with a concert at the Palalottomatica on 12 Nov. The English singer-songwriter is in Italy as part of The Afterlove world tour to promote his fifth album of the same name. Blunt is best known for his massive hit You’re Beautiful from his debut album Back to Bedlam which sold 11 million copies worldwide. For ticket details see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Palalottomatica, Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi 1. THE FUREYS 7 Dec Tickets are on sale for a concert at Rome’s Scholars Lounge by veteran Irish folk band The Fureys. The group has been performing for almost four decades and is best known for ballads such as I will love you, When you were sweet 16, and The Green fields of France. For tickets contact Scholars Lounge, Via del Plebiscito 101b, tel. 0669202208, www.scholarsloungerome.com.

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ONEGIN 12-18 Oct John Cranko’s Onegin is the first ballet after the summer break, with the Teatro alla Scala ballet company. Roberto Bolle

Digital Life for Romaeuropa Festival. AES+F: still from Allegoria Sacra, third part of The Liminal Space Trilogy.

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

dances the part of Onegin on 12 and 18 Oct so if you have missed him during his summer performances at numerous festivals up and down Italy here is a chance to see him on his home stage with guest star Marianela Nunez, principal star of the Royal Ballet. The score, based on Tchaikovsky’s music but not on his opera Eugene Onegin, is orchestrated by KurtHeinz Stolze. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME

Monumental by The Holy Body Tattoo as part of the Romaeuropa Festival at the Auditorium della Conciliazione on 13-14 Oct.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 20 Sept-2 Dec This year the dance section of this avantgarde multi-disciplinary autumn festival continues with the cutting edge of dance and choreography. After Sasha Waltz and Guests, Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, Dada Masilo, who opened the dance section of the festival in September, the programme becomes even more adventurous with monumental (13-14 Oct) by the Holy Body Tattoo, with live music by Godspeed you! Black Emperor on the theme of alienation, isolation and chaos (Auditorium Via Conciliazione). This is followed by Tu Cirque autobiografique (14-15 Oct) with Matias Pilet (solo) and Olivier Meyrou (director), an autobiographical retrospective mix of reality and fantasy (Teatro Vascello). Benvenuto Umano (21-22 Oct) with the CollettivO CineticO is described in the programme notes as being nerdy and pop, hyperactive and poetic as well as being mathematical and theoretical. It is inspired by the frescoes in the Salone dei Mesi at Palazzo Schifanoia in Ferrara. (Teatro Vascello). FYI – Palazzo Schifanoia will be closed to the public from 8 Jan 2018 to bring the 14th and 15th-century palace up to anti-seismic standards following the 2012 earthquake in Emilia Romagna. Details of times and locations of the Romaeuropa festival dance events are on the festival website www.romaeuropa.net.

British actress Vanessa Redgrave will be a special guest at the Rome Film Fest.

MOMIX FOR EVER 17-26 Oct This arrangement of Moses Pendelton’s most successful works was compiled to celebrate the company’s 35th anniversary back in 2015. Passion, Baseball, Opus Cactus, Sunflower Moon, Botanica and Alchemy. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

TURIN FESTIVAL TORINODANZA 12 Sept-1 Dec The programme for this year’s Turin’s dance festival includes many of the founding names of contemporary dance and choreography - Angelin Preljocal, Jiri Kylian, Lucinda Childs, Nacho Duato, Emio Greco as well as two new works from the company Aterballetto. This is the last year for the festival’s artistic director, Gigi Cristoforetti, who has always placed considerable emphasis on links between the festival and the city. He will hand over next year to Anna Cremonini, the present artistic consultant. www.torinodanzafestival.it.

FESTIVALS ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 20 Sept-2 Dec The multidisciplinary Romaeuropa Festival returns with a much-increased programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology, under the title “Where are we now?” The 32nd edition of the prestigious arts festival takes place in 24 locations around Rome and features more than 300 artists from 32 nations. The line-up includes big names such as Julien Gosselin, Dorothée Munyaneza, Jan Fabre, Sasha Waltz, Dada Masilo, Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, Jeff Mills and Tony Allen. October highlights include Krol Roger - Re Ruggero with the orchestra and choir of S. Cecilia (5, 7, 9,

10 Oct); A symphony of Techno by Carl Craig and the Versus Synthesizer Ensemble (10 Oct); and Sounds of Silences by Edison Studio SIAE and Cineteca di Bologna. There are also numerous children’s events, under the umbrella REF Kids, as well as the eighth edition of the parallel futuristic section Digital Life, which examines the interaction between visual arts and technology, and takes place for the first time at Palazzo delle Esposizioni, from 7 Oct-7 Jan. This year’s Digital Life features six installations, talks and performances as well as the KizArt platform for children and a selection of video works from Geneva’s Biennale de l’Image en Mouvement. For programme details in English see Romaeuropa website, www. romaeuropa.net/en. ROME FILM FEST 26 Oct-5 Nov The 12th edition of the Rome Film Fest as usual features screenings, master classes, tributes, retrospectives, panels and special events. Most of the action takes place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, with parallel ev ents in other locations around the city. The American filmmaker David Lynch, whose career ranges from Mulholland Drive to Twin Peaks, will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award and will meet the audience. Other leading cinema figures taking part in the Close Encounters section include Shakespearean actor Ian McKellen – known to many as Gandalf in the Lord of the Rings saga; Canadian director Xavier Dolan; cult writer Chuck Palahniuk; the celebrated British actress Vanessa Redgrave whose 50-year career on the stage and screen includes Blowup, Julia, and Driving Miss Daisy; and Nanni Moretti who will retrace his career as director, actor and producer. At the time of going to press, the first films announced included Detroit by Kathryn Bigelow, Logan Lucky by Steve Soderbergh and NYsferatu by Andrea Mastrovito. The programme also features a retrospective on The Italian School, the restoration of three Italian classic films, a contemporary art installation and a conference on international film criticism. For details see website, www.romacinemafest.it.

OPERA MILAN DER FREISCHUTZ BY WEBER 10 Oct-2 Nov Weber’s opera, which has not been performed at La Scala since 1998, is conducted by Myung-Whun Chung in a new La Scala production directed by Matthias

Hartmann. The cast includes Julia Kleiter, Gunther Groissböck and Michael König. Weber’s opera, which premiered in Berlin in 1821, is considered the first great German opera of the Romantic period. It rapidly became an international success and it is said to have inspired the young Richard Wagner in its use of folk legends and myths. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

Leo Nucci as Nabucco and Anna Pirozzi as Abigaile sing in Verdi’s opera at La Scala in Oct. (Photo from a 2015 production of Nabucco at Piacenza).

NABUCCO BY VERDI 24 Oct-19 Nov Nello Santi conducts the Daniele Abbado staging of Verdi’s opera. Leo Nucci plays Nabucco with Martina Serafina and Anna Pirozzi singing the part of Abigaile. Mikhail Petrenko makes his debut at La Scala as Zaccaria. On 28 Oct Nucci gives a recital in the Great Voices at La Scala series. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. TI VEDO, TI SENTO, MI PERDO BY SALVATORE SCIARRINO 14-26 Nov To end the 2016-2017 season La Scala has commissioned this new opera by Salvatore Sciarrino together with Berlin’s Staadtsoper. The work by one of Italy’s foremost living composers is inspired by the life of the composer Alessandro Stradella (1639-1682). It is conducted by Maxime Pascal, one of Europe’s top young conductors, and is directed by Jürgen Flimm. La Scala has a policy of producing one contemporary work a year, usually a world premiere. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Re Ruggero (King Roger) in the Royal Opera House production conducted by Antonio Pappano in 2015 (see also Classical).

OPERA NOTES Festa grande per gli appassionati di opera. L’Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia apre la Stagione 2017/18 all’Auditorium del Parco della Musica a Roma con un’autentica rarità: Re Ruggero di Karol Szymanowski (5, 7 e 9 ottobre) diretta da Antonio Pappano e con un cast internazionale di cantanti. Il libretto di Re Ruggero, ispirato alla Baccanti di Euripide è di Jaroslaw Iwaszkiewicz e dello stesso Szymanowski, che non soddisfano del risultato finale riscrisse per intero il terzo atto. La trama è incentrata sul conflitto tra una chiesa cattolica istituzionalizzata e sclerotizzata (rappresentata da Ruggero II di Sicilia) e una religiosità più libera e liberante, ispirata al e dall’antico culto di Dioniso: il dio greco dell’estasi, dell’ebbrezza e della liberazione dei sensi. Re Ruggero che ebbe la sua première al Teatro Wielki di Varsavia il 16 giugno 1926, sarà eseguita dai complessi dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia per la prima volta. Karol Szymanowski è considerato il più importante compositore polacco dopo Fryderyk Chopin. www.santacecilia.it. Il 14 ottobre l’istituzione universitaria dei concerti inaugura la stagione concertistica 2017/18 presso l’aula magna dell’università “la sapienza” di Roma con un concerto dal titolo Gerusalemme: celeste e terrena, perduta e liberata. Protagonista Anna Caterina Antonacci con l’Accademia degli Astrusi diretti da Federico Ferri. In programma musiche vocali e strumentali di Corelli, Colonna, Biber, Monteverdi e Lully. Soprano di fama internazionale e raffinata cantante e sensibile interprete dal forte impatto drammatico, soprattutto del belcanto e della musica barocca, Anna Caterina Antonacci si esibirà nel Combattimento di Tancredi e Clorinda per celebrare i quattrocentocinquanta anni dalla nascita di Claudio Monteverdi, in prima esecuzione moderna in due Lamentazioni per la Settimana Santa di Giovanni Paolo Colonna, stimato maestro di cappella bolognese, e in alcune arie da Armide, “tragédie en musique” di Jean-Baptiste Lully, autore che Anna Caterina Antonacci proporrà in Italia per la prima volta nella sua carriera. Il 17 ottobre, sempre nell’Aula Magna de “La Sapienza”, verranno eseguite Les noces di Igor Stravinskij, scene coreografiche russe per soli, coro, 4 pianoforti e percussione. Ebbero la prima nel Théâtre de la Gaîté di Parigi il 13 giugno 1923, ora vengono proposte in un’esecuzione integrale in lingua garganica (una specie di dialetto napoletano antico e purissimo) nella revisione del compositore e musicologo Roberto De Simone, motivata dal fatto che Les noces raccontano un matrimonio contadino in un villaggio russo con musiche che citano melodie russe popolari e liturgiche. Sempre di Igor Stravinskij ci sarà in programma il “burlesque” in quattro scene Petruška, nella versione per pianoforte suonato a quattro mani e per percussioni. Aprirà il concerto una prima esecuzione assoluta: Nessun luogo è lontano per 6 percussionisti di Marcello Filotei, un autore contemporaneo che compone guardando alle sonorità e alle specificità timbriche di musiche di popoli e di culture differenti molto distanti tra loro. www.concertiiuc.it. Paolo Di Nicola

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

ANDREA CHENIER BY UMBERTO GIORDANO 10 Dec-7 Jan To open the 2017-2018 season and to mark the 50th anniversary of the death of Victor de Sabata, principal conductor at La Scala from 1929-1957, Riccardo Chailly conducts a new staging of Umberto Giordano’s opera Andrea Chenier, directed by Mario Martone. Yusif Eyvazov makes his debut at La Scala, in the part of Andrea Chenier, with his wife Anna Netrebko in the part of Maddalena di Coigny. The Azerbaijan tenor is on the up-and-up, appearing for the first time last year at the Los Angeles opera and the Met as well as making his debut at the Paris Opera, the Berlin Staatsoper and the Marinsky. He made his debut in Rome as Des Grieux in Puccini’s Manon Lascaut at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma in 2014 along with Netrebko in the lead role, conducted by Riccardo Muti. Giordano’s opera, which was inspired by the French Revolution, was an outstanding success when it was first staged at La Scala in March 1896. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME FRA DIAVOLO BY DANIEL-FRANÇOIS AUBER 8-21 Oct Conducted by Rory Macdonald and directed by Giorgio Barberio Corsetti, this is a new production in conjunction with the Teatro Massimo in Palermo. Sonia Ganassi sings the part of Lady Pamela and American tenor John Osborn Fra Diavolo. Auber’s comic and most successful opera was first performed in Paris in 1830 and then in London in 1857 in an Italian version. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma.it/en. TOSCA BY PUCCINI 14-20 Oct This is Alessandro Talevi’s successful production which debuted at the Teatro dell’Opera in 2015, based on the drawings for the world premiere in 1900. Conducted by Jordi Bernacer and Carlo Donadio, with Virginia Tola and Svetlana Kasyan in the part of Tosca. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma. it/en/. LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 29 Oct-4 Nov If you missed Sofia Coppolla’s sumptuous traditional production of La Traviata, sponsored by Valentino, last autumn here it is again, conducted by Stefano Ranzani and Carlo Donadio. Two Italian

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ObicĂ Parlamento Via dei Prefetti 26a, Roma Ph. +39 06 6832630 parlamento@obica.com ObicĂ Campo dei Fiori Piazza Campo dei Fiori 16, Roma Ph. +39 06 68802366 campodeifiori@obica.com www.obica.com

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

sopranos take the part of Violetta, Maria Grazia Schiavo and Valentina Varriale (who is part of the Teatro dell’Opera young artists programme). Auturo Chacón-Cruz, a protegé of Placido Domingo, sings Alfredo Germont and Sebastian Catan Giorgio. There will also be a chance to hear Varriale next season in La Sonnambula (18 Feb-3 March 2018) and Le Nozze di Figaro (30 Oct-11 Nov 2018). Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma.it/en. THE DAMNATION OF FAUST BY BERLIOZ 12-23 Dec The new season opens on 12 Dec with Daniele Gatti conducting Berlioz’s Damnation of Faust directed by Damiano Michieletto in a new joint production with Turin’s Teatro Regio and Palua de les Art Reina Sofia di Valencia. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio1, www.operaroma.it/en.

THEATRE TEATRI DI VETRO 10 Sept-12 Nov The 11th edition of this two-month contemporary arts festival features more than 40 performances of theatre, dance and music, distributed in nine different venues around Rome. Recognised as an open space for interesting theatrical trends, the 2017 programme incorporates new, multidisciplinary works in the fields of drama, dance, music and the performing arts. Highlights include Macbettu, a Sardinian version of the Shakespearean classic and Questo lavoro sull’arancia, a dance production inspired by the violence, nihilism and sadomasochism of A Clockwork Orange. For programme see website, www. teatridivetro.it.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 20 Sept-2 Dec The Romaeuropa Festival hosts avantgarde theatrical events and performances practically every night until 2 December. For more details see Festivals page 29 and website www.romaeuropa.net. SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 5-15 Oct The four-month Shakespearean programme at Rome’s Silvano Toti Globe Theatre, under the artistic direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti, ends on a high-note for Rome’s English speakers: the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company returns for the third year with an English-language coproduction of Much Ado About Nothing, directed by Chris Pickles (5-15 Oct). Located in the heart of Villa Borghese, the theatre is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. For details see website www.globetheatreroma.com. Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, tel. 060608. ENGLISH THEATRE OF ROME 15-25 Oct The English Theatre of Rome presents The Belle of Amherst, by William Luce, in collaboration with John Cabot University’s Italy Reads literature programme. Directed by Imogen Kutch with Gaby Ford, The Belle of Amherst draws largely from the poetry and letters of Emily Dickenson, one of America’s most enigmatic and eccentric poets. 15 Oct 18.00; 16 Oct 20.00; 18 Oct 20.00; 20 Oct 19.00; 21 Oct 20.00; 22 Oct 18.00; 25 Oct 20.00. Earlier matinees available for student groups at weekend. Photo ID necessary to obtain entrance to university campus. Tickets €12, group rate and over 65s €10. To reserve rometheatre@yahoo. com, tel. 346 / 3612209, Whatsapp 348 / 9355626. John Cabot University, Via della Lungara 233, Trastevere.

London’s Bedouin Theatre Company returns to Rome with a production of Much Ado About Nothing. Director Chris Pickles, top left, with cast.

TEATRO SISTINA 14-29 Oct The Italian version of Grease, the 1971 musical by Jim Jacobs and Warren Casey, celebrates its 20th anniversary with a production directed by Saverio Marconi. Starring Guglielmo Scilla with soundtrack performed live. In Italian. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www. ilsistina.it.

Grease at Teatro Sistina. Guglielmo Scilla as Danny and Lucia Blanco as Sandy. Photo Giulia Marangoni.

TEATRO INDIA 19-29 Oct Teatro India hosts dEVERSIVO, written, directed and interpreted by Eleonora Danco. The powerful play takes place in various rooms of a house, between night and day, and conjuring up scenes of struggle and intimacy within a whirlwind of physical, emotional and social contexts. In Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 0687752210, www. teatrodiroma.net. ROME SAVOYARDS 24-29 Oct The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome present The Importance of Being Earnest, Oscar Wilde’s enduringly popular farce, at Teatro Genesio in the Prati district. This English-language production is directed by Sandra Provost and takes place from 24-27 Oct at 20.30 and from 28-29 Oct at 17.30. For tickets tel. 347-8248661 or email playsinrome@yahoo.com. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (Viale Mazzini), www.romesavoyards.it. ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 27 Oct Rome’s Comedy Club celebrates its ninth season with a brand new venue: the Makai Surf and Tiki Bar in Ostiense/ Piramide area. The October edition of this monthly comedy evening – in English – comprises regulars Ryan Costello, Liz Knight, Daniele Fabbri and club founder October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Marsha De Salvatore, with Jose Salgado as MC. Rome’s Comedy Club holds its events every last Friday of the month, with an entrance of €15 which includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine and the show. Doors open at 20.00, show starts at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 339 / 7514140 or email: alessio.esposito@gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c. TEATRO VITTORIA 31 Oct-5 Nov Giobbe Covatta presents La Divina Commediola, an apocryphal but fun version of Dante’s epic work in which purgatory and heaven don’t make the cut. In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it.

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 12 Oct-26 Nov Matera Imagined/Matera Immaginata: Photography and a Southern Italian Town. Exhibition highlighting how photography has framed modern perceptions of Matera, a city in the Basilicata region noted for its millennia-old cave dwellings. The show charts Matera’s recent evolution from the ancient backwater made famous in Carlo Levi’s bestselling memoir Christ Stopped at Eboli to its designation as Europe as Capital of Culture in 2019. Offering a new narrative about Matera’s ancient heritage, the exhibition features works by celebrated photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Esther Bubley, Luigi Ghirri, Emmet Gowin, David Seymour and Carrie Mae Weems. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org. BELGIAN ACADEMY 7 Sept-8 Nov The Belgian Academy of Rome presents an exhibition by father and son artists Antonio Máro e Rafael Máro Ramírez, originally from Peru but long-term residents of Belgium. The pair work in close col-

Carlos Saura performs for Remover Roma con Santiago organised by the Spanish embassy in Italy.

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

laboration, creating work inspired by preColumbian art and Peruvian culture. The exhibition can be visited Mon-Fri 15.0018.00. Academia Belgica, Via Omero 8, www.academiabelgica.it.

Nomentana district near Porta Pia. Via Nomentana 12, tel. 06441633201, www. culturacorea.it.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 27 Oct Lost and Found: Places, Objects and People. Workshop exploring the work of various agencies involved in recuperating objects and people across the Mediterranean. The event is part of Being Human: The UK’s only (inter)national festival of the humanities, and is sponsored by the British School at Rome, the British Council in Rome and the British embassy in Rome. 14.30-19.15. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE 31 Oct-18 Jan Collezionare al Corso. The Casa di Goethe celebrates 20 years in Rome by showcasing some highlights of its 30-year-old art collection, including some recent acquisitions. The drawings, prints and sketchbooks on display contain works by Goethe’s friends Johann Heinrich Wilhelm Tischbein, Friedrich Bury, Friedrich Preller the Elder, Philipp Hackert, Albert Christoph Dies and Christoph Heinrich Kniep. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 4 May-12 Oct The Japanese Cultural Institute, in collaboration with its neighbour the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, presents Boom Beat Bubble, an exhibition of Japanese prints from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. There are 54 works by 24 artists in the exhibition whose title refers to the economic “Boom” of the 1960s, followed by the “Beat” era which gained momentum later that decade, and Japan’s speculative economic “Bubble” of the 1980s. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KOREAN CULTURAL CENTER 24-27 Oct The Korean Cultural Center in Italy celebrates its first year in Rome with Korea Week. The programme of free events showcases Korean culture and comprises a series of meetings, workshops, concerts, make-up and fashion shows: Tea ceremony & tasting (24-26 Oct), K-Economy Forum (24 Oct), Korean traditional costume ‘Hanbok’ fashion show (25 Oct), Korean quilt exhibition (25 Oct), Korean traditional music performance (26 Oct), KUnion Forum (27 Oct), and make-up show presented by Lim Chae Yeol (27 Oct). The Korean Cultural Center is located in the

Korea Week at Rome’s Korean Cultural Center.

SPANISH EMBASSY TO ITALY 2 Oct-2 Nov The Spanish embassy in Italy presents the first edition of the festival Remover Roma con Santiago: From Rome a Santiago: a journey of culture. The festival’s showcases the art and culture of the various Spanish regions through which the Cammino di Santiago passes. The month-long cultural programme comprises art, music, theatre and cinema, with events taking place in the city’s Real Academia de España, the Instituto Cervantes and the Escuela Espanola de Historia y Arqueologia en Roma. For details see website: www.piazzadispagna.es.

CHILDREN ARTandSEEK 7-8 Oct ARTandSEEK organises English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. On 7 and 8 October, at 10.30 both days, it holds two workshops for children aged 8-12 at the Picasso exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale (see page 22). Under the theme Picasso in Italy: costume and characters, the first workshop is held in Italian for English learners, while the second one will be aimed at English speakers. ARTandSEEK also plans two English-language workshops, Fantastic creatures: the circus, as part of the Kids section of the ongoing Romaeuropa Festival (see page 29), on 12 and 19 November. For more details see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Children who are ARTandSEEK members pay €10, non-members pay additional €5 for membership. For event details tel. 331 / 5524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com.

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

A selection of images from the recent IB art exhibition at St George’s British International School, La Storta, by 17-year-old students from Greg Morgan’s art class.

Self portrait, left, and Fractured portrait, right, by Laura Vaccarella.

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR

Jellyfish Dress by Vanessa Figura.

Women in Business by Carla Iannace.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Spatial Figure by Giulia Gherardini.

Greg Morgan is Head of Art and Design & Technology at St Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s British International School, La Storta, tel. 063086001, www.stgeorge.school.it.

Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the studentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ROME’S CULTURAL ROME’S CULTURAL

ACADEMIES ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY ACADEMY IN IN ROME ROME AMERICAN The American American Academy Academy in in Rome Rome works works The AMERICAN IN ROME to promote promote ACADEMY research and and independent to research independent The American Academy in Rome works study in in the the arts arts and and humanities. humanities. Via study Via to promote research and independent Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www. Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www. study in the arts and humanities. Via aarome.org. aarome.org. Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www. aarome.org. AUSTRIAN CULTURAL CULTURALFORUM FORUM AUSTRIAN The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM dedicated to the to history and culture events dedicated the history and The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events of Austria. Viale Bruno 113, tel. culture of Austria. VialeBuozzi Bruno Buozzi dedicated to the history and culture 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult. of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. roma.it. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scienBELGIAN ACADEMY BELGIAN ACADEMY tific and cultural relations betweenscienItaly The Belgian Academy facilitates The Belgian Academy facilitates scienand and Belgium by relations sponsoring researchtific cultural between Itatific and cultural relations between ersand andBelgium artists in Via Omero 8,Italy tel. ly byItaly. sponsoring and Belgium by sponsoring researchresearch063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. ers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. ers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English BRITISH COUNCIL BRITISH COUNCIL language and appreciation in Italy ofEngthe The British Council promotes the The British Council promotes the English UK’s creative ideas and achievements. lish language and appreciation in Italy language and appreciation in Italy of the Viathe di S.UK’s Sebastianello 16, tel. of creative and06478141, achieveUK’s creative ideas ideas and achievements. www.britishcouncil.it. ments. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME and arscholars, artists, researchers The British School at Rome brings The British School at brings chitects from Britain to Rome create a culscholars, artists, researchers and scholars, artists, researchers andarch artural from exchange between Britain and tects Britain to create a cultural chitects from Britain to create a culItaly. Via Gramsci 61,Britain tel. 063264939, exchange between and Italy. tural exchange between Britain and www.bsr.ac.uk. Via 61, tel.61, 063264939, www. Italy.Gramsci Via Gramsci tel. 063264939, bsr.ac.uk. www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE Rome’sDImuseum dedicated to Johann CASA CASA DI GOETHE GOETHE Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Rome’s museum dedicated to the Johann and culturalvon events throughout year. Wolfgang Goethe offers exhibiWolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. tions and cultural events throughand cultural events throughout the year. casadigoethe.it. out theCorso year.18,Via Corso 18,www. tel. Via del tel. del 0632650412, 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. casadigoethe.it. CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE CENTRE CULTUREL CENTRE CULTUREL The centre offers cultural events such as SAINT-LOUIS DE SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE FRANCE film centre screenings, lectures, debates and The offers culturalevents events such The centre offers cultural such as theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, as film screenings, lectures, debates film screenings, lectures, debates and www.ifcsl.com. and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, 066802629, www.ifcsl.com. www.ifcsl.com. British School at Rome British School at Rome

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French Academy French Academy

CENTRO CENTRO CULTURAL CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian PorThe centre offers courses of BrazilCENTROand CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA tuguese samba and hostsand meetings ian Portuguese and samba hosts The centre courses of Brazilian Porwith writersoffers and filmmakers, conferences meetings with writers and filmmaktuguese and samba and meetings on Brazilian literature andhosts screenings of ers, conferences on Brazilian literature with writers and filmmakers, conferences Brazilian movies. Navona 18, tel. andBrazilian screenings ofPiazza Brazilian movies. Pion literature and screenings of 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov. azza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www. Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. roma.itamaraty.gov.br/it/centro_cul0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov. tural_brasil-italia.xml. br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution DANISH ACADEMY DANISH ACADEMY that offers support to Danish artists in The Danish Academy is an institution The Danish Academy istel. an063265931, institution Rome. Via support Omero 18, that offers to Danish artists in that offers support to Danish artists in ww.dkinst-rom.dk. Rome. Via Via Omero Rome. Omero 18, 18, tel. tel. 063265931, 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. ww.dkinst-rom.dk. DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for DUTCH INSTITUTE DUTCH INSTITUTE students researchers serves The Dutch Dutchand Institute offers and courses for The Institute offers courses for as a bridgeand between Dutch universities students researchers and serves students andOmero researchers and serves and Italy. Via 10, tel. 063269621, as aa bridge bridge between between Dutch Dutch universities universities as www.knir.it. and Italy. Italy. Via Via Omero Omero 10, 10, tel. tel. 063269621, 063269621, and www.knir.it. www.knir.it. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, EGYPTIAN ACADEMY EGYPTIAN ACADEMY Egyptian and African culture and art The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Arabian, TheItaly. Egyptian Academy brings to Via Omero 4, culture tel. 063201896, Egyptian and African and art art Egyptian and African culture and www.accademiaegitto.org. to Italy. Italy. Via Via Omero Omero 4, 4, tel. tel. 063201896, 063201896, to www.accademiaegitto.org. www.accademiaegitto.org. American Academy

FINNISH ACADEMY FINNISH ACADEMY The Finnish Academy provides aa base The Finnish Academy provides base FINNISH ACADEMY for Finnish students and researchers for Finnish students and researchers The Finnish Academy provides a base working in Italy, as well as promotworking in Italy, as well as promotfor Finnish students and arts researchers ing work in in the the and huhuing Finland’s Finland’s work arts and working in Italy, as well as promotmanities. Villa Lante, Passeggiata del manities. Villawork Lante, Passeggiata del ing Finland’s in the arts and huGianicolo 10, 0668801674, www. Gianicolo Villa 10, tel. tel. 0668801674, www. manities. Lante, Passeggiata del irfrome.org. irfrome.org.10, tel. 0668801674, www. Gianicolo irfrome.org. FRENCH ACADEMY FRENCH ACADEMY The Academy The French French Academy at at Villa Villa Medici Medici FRENCH ACADEMY hosts artists France and provides hostsFrench artists from from France and provides The Academy at Villa Medici exhibitions and festivals throughout exhibitions festivals throughout hosts artists and from France provides the Trinità deiand Monti 1, tel. the year. year. Viale Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. exhibitions and festivals throughout 066761305, www.villamedici.it. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. GERMAN ACADEMY GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy The German Academy offers offers GerGerGERMAN ACADEMY man artists, writers, musicians and man artists, writers, musicians and The German Academy offers Gerarchitects the opportunity to study architects the opportunity to study man artists, writers, musicians1,and in di tel. in Rome. Rome. Largo Largo di Villa Villa Massimo Massimo 1, tel. architects the www.deutsche-kulturopportunity to study 064425931, 064425931, www.deutsche-kulturinin Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. international.de. ternational. de. www.deutsche-kultur064425931, international.de. GERMAN HISTORICALINSTITUTE INSTITUTE GERMAN HISTORICAL This institute conducts research This institute conducts research into into GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE the history ofofGermany and Italy, in in the history Germany and Italy, This institute conducts research into particular relations and between both the historythe of Germany Italy, in

American Academy

Wanted in Rome | August October2016 2017

September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome | August 2016

September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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Danish Academy

particular the between NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE www.cultu12, tel. 06441633201, countries. Via relations Aurelia Antica 391,both tel. tana particular the relations between INSTITUTE countries. Via Aurelia Anticaboth 391, tel.NORWEGIAN The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers racorea.it. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. Theundergraduate Norwegian Institute in Rome offersin 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. and graduate courses 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. undergraduate and graduate in art history, ancient studies courses and Italian. NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE GOETHE INSTITUT art history, ancient studies and Italian. GOETHE INSTITUT Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www. The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers The Goethe Institut promotes educaGOETHE 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www. The Goethe educa-Vialeundergraduate hf.uio.no. and graduate courses tionINSTITUT in ItalyInstitut about promotes German culture, tion inInstitut Italy about German culture, The Goethe promotes educain art history, ancient studies and Itallaguage and history. Via Savoia 15, tel.hf.uio.no. and history. Savoia 15, ian. POLISH INSTITUTE tion inlanguage Italy about GermanViaculture, VialeCULTURAL 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, 068440051, www.goethe.de. tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. Institution dedicated to Polish history language and history. Via Savoia 15, POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE www.hf.uio.no. and culture as welltoas Polish the promotion tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. Institution dedicated history HUNGARIAN ACADEMY HUNGARIAN ofculture dialogue Poland and Italy. CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Academy ACADEMY of Hungary in RomeandPOLISH as between well as the promotion The of Hungary Via Vittoria Colonna Poland 1,to tel.Polish 0636000723, Institution dedicated hostsAcademy concerts, literary events in andRome exhi-of dialogue HUNGARIAN ACADEMY between andhistory Italy. hosts literary and and www.istitutopolacco.it. culture as well as the promotion bitions concerts, by of Hungarian artists and scholThe Academy Hungary inevents Rome Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723, exhibitions by1,Hungarian artistswww. and of dialogue between Poland and Italy. ars. Via Giulia tel. 066889671, hosts scholars. concerts, and www.istitutopolacco.it. Vialiterary Giulia 1,events tel. 066889671, POLISH ACADEMY Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723, roma.balassiintezet.hu. exhibitions by Hungarian artists and www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. OF SCIENCE www.istitutopolacco.it. scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, POLISH ACADEMY The Polish Academy is a research cenINSTITUTO CERVANTES www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. OF SCIENCE INSTITUTO CERVANTES tre for the humanities and a scientific ACADEMY Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institu- POLISH Polish Academy a research Instituto Cervantes is a cultural insti-TheOF exchange betweenis Poland and cenItaly. SCIENCE tion created to promote the teaching INSTITUTO CERVANTES for the humanities and a scientific tution created to promote the teachVicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.acPolish Academy is a research cenof Spanish language and culture. Viatre The Instituto Cervantes islanguage a cultural between Poland Italy. ing of Albani Spanish16, andinsticulture. cademiapolacca.it. tre for the humanities and and a scientific di Villa tel. 068551949, www.exchange di VillatoAlbani 16, tel. tution Via created promote the 068551949, teach- Vicolo Doria 2,between tel. 066792170, exchange Poland www.acand Italy. cervantes.es. ROMANIAN ACADEMY ing of www.cervantes.es. Spanish language and culture. cademiapolacca.it. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.acThe Romanian Academy hosts Via di ITALIAN Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, cademiapolacca.it. INSTITUTE ITALIAN INSTITUTE events and promotes cultural relawww.cervantes.es. ROMANIAN ACADEMY FOR LATIN AMERICA FOR LATIN AMERICA tionsRomanian between Romania Italy. ACADEMY The Italo-Latin American Institute fa-TheROMANIAN Academy andhosts The Italo-Latin American Institute Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1,cultural tel. 063201594, The Romanian Academy hosts events cilitates research into the cultural, sci-events ITALIAN INSTITUTE and promotes relafacilitates research theaspects cultural, www.accadromania.it. and promotes Romania cultural relations beentific,AMERICA economic andinto social oftions FOR LATIN between and Italy. scientific, economic and social aspects tween Romania and1,Italy. Piazza Josè Italy and Latin American countries. Pi-Piazza The Italo-Latin American Institute Josè di S. Martin tel. 063201594, of and Latin American coun- di RUSSIAN INSTITUTE S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.acazzaItaly Benedetto Cairoli 3, tel. 06684921, facilitates research into the cultural, tries. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 3, tel.www.accadromania.it. OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE cadromania.it. www.iila.org. scientific, economic and social aspects 06684921, www.iila.org. The Russian Institute provides classes in of Italy and Latin American coun- RUSSIAN RussianINSTITUTE language and culture. Via Farini RUSSIAN INSTITUTE JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE tries. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 3, tel. OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE tel. 064870137. OF AND LANGUAGE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts 62, CULTURE 06684921, www.iila.org. Russian Institute provides classes in The Japanese Institute hostsTheThe Russian Institute provides classes regular culturalCultural events and also offers language and culture. Via Farini hosts regular cultural and SPANISH ACADEMY in Russian language and culture. Via courses in Japanese. Viaevents Gramsci 74,also tel.Russian offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci62, tel. The064870137. Spanish Academy hosts artists in JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE Farini 62, tel. 064870137. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. many fields of study and holds events The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts that provide a cultural bridge between hosts regular cultural MEMORIAL events andHOUSE also SPANISH ACADEMY SPANISH ACADEMY KEATS-SHELLEY KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in MontoSpanish Academy hostsartists artists offers courses Japanese. Spanish Academy hosts inin Museumin dedicated to Via the Gramsci livesHOUSE of threeTheThe dedicated to the–lives threemany rio fields 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. many fields study andholds holdsevents events English Romantic poets JohnofKeats, 74, tel.Museum 063224754, www.jfroma.it. of of study and English Romantic poets – John Keats, provide a cultural bridgebetween between Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.thatthat provide a cultural bridge Percy Shelley Lord Byron. Spain SWEDISH INSTITUTE Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in MotoPiazza Bysshe di Spagna 26, and tel.HOUSE 066784235, KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL Spain andand Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in MontoPiazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, rio OF 3, CLASSICAL STUDIES tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. www.keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three rio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. www.keats-shelley-house.it. The Swedish Institute is a research cenEnglish Romantic poets – John Keats, SWEDISH INSTITUTE KOREA CULTURAL CENTER Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Korea promotes | September WantedCultural in Rome 2017 OF CLASSICAL Piazza 62 di Spagna 26, tel. Center 066784235, STUDIES Korean culture in Rome. Via Nomen- The Swedish Institute is a research cenwww.keats-shelley-house.it. The Swedish Institute is a research cen-

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

tre dedicated to scientific research in

tre dedicated dedicated to research in tre to scientific scientific research art and and archaeology. archaeology. Via Omero Omero 14, tel. tel.in art Via 14, art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. SWISS INSTITUTE INSTITUTE SWISS

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Swiss Institute offers offers exhibitions, exhibitions, The Institute events and the The Swiss Institute offers to exhibitions, events andclasses classesdedicated dedicated to culthe ture ofand Switzerland. Via Via Ludovisi tel. events classes dedicated to 48, the48, culculture of Switzerland. Ludovisi 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. ture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. Belgian Academy

Belgian Academy

Romanian Academy

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October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

August 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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LESSONS

ITALIAN LESSONS OR CONVERSATION. Qualified and experienced teacher for Italian lessons and conversations (one to one, group, skype). Emma. livingitalialanguage@gmail.com, www.livingitalianlanguage.com. POETRY

WHAT A STRANGE SUMMER. The Ramblas in Barcelona, the violence of carabeneers in Florence, the rape in Rimini. Questi se chiamano crimini. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES

GIVE A BOOST TO YOUR CAREER: ESE MASTER PROGRAMMES. The Master Programmes at ESE are designed to develop the personal and professional strengths of the individual student. The entrepreneurial education received at ESE is intended to assist individuals in defining their professional dream and put them on a specially tailored career path. ESE Master â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s students may specialise in Marketing, Finance or Management and are also given the opportunity to further specialise in their sector of interest through the international internship placement programme. The internship programme and a series of workshops to enhance your professional appeal are an integral part of the course of study and provides each student the opportunity to spend a minimum of 3 months working in the field of the chosen specialisation. This enables students to have excellent opportunities to enter the job market and gain exposure. ESE students have possibility to:study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1500 leading organisations around the world. Intake Dates: September 2017. Courses Duration: 12 months in class (15-18 hrs per week) + 3-6 months internship. Language of Instruction: English. To apply http://apply. europeanschoolofeconomics. com/Ma/. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it, admission.rome@uniese.it, tel. 0648906653, www.uniese.it, www. europeanschoolofeconomics.com.

USEFUL

NUMBERS ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com St Patrick’s English-Language Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642014554 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 EMERGENCY NUMBERS

BOOKS

CHIAMAROMA

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

CINEMAS

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 October 2017 | Wanted in Rome

RELIGIOUS All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35,

Wanted in Rome | October 2017

tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 SUPPORT GROUPS Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 TRANSPORT • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

Wanted in Rome 2016-17 02.qxp_Ottobre 18/09/17 12:16 Pagina 1

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ALESSANDRO TALEVI ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

OPERA

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign. Illustrazioni di Gianluigi Toccafondo

La traviata MUSIC BY

GIUSEPPE VERDI TEATRO COSTANZI OCTOBER 29, 31

CONDUCTOR

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SOFIA COPPOLA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

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