Wanted in Rome - December 2017

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DECEMBER 2017 € 2,00

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CONTENTS

TITOLO

NO. 12 / DECEMBER 2017 EDITORIALS

S. SUSANNA BECOMES ST PATRICK’S Andy Devane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 KOREAN CULTURE IN ROME Margaret Stenhouse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 FROM POMPEY TO PASOLINI Martin Bennett. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

WHAT’S ON

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 CLASSICAL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 FESTIVALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 ACADEMIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 CHILDREN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 SPORT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 CHURCHES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

CLASSIFIED COLUMNS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

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MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 ART GALLERIES IN ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 USEFUL NUMBERS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 DECEMBER 2017 € 2,00

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

NEXT PUBLICATION AND CLASSIFIED DATES Next publication dates are 10 Jan and 7 Feb. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 31 Dec (for 10 Jan) and 28 Jan (for 7 Feb). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 12

Alice. Down to the rabbit hole. by Pax Paloscia. Exhibition until 13 Jan at Rosso20sette Arte Contemporanea, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27.com. See page 20 for details.

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DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 04/12/2017

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RELIGION

Andy Devane

S. SUSANNA BECOMES ST PATRICK’S A new home for Rome’s American Catholic community is also a happy outcome for the Irish Augustinians

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n 23 September a removal team hauled 28 wooden pews out of the church of S. Susanna alle Terme di Diocleziano, located roughly between Piazza Barberini and Piazza della Repubblica. Although it was the first time in four years that the church doors had been opened, it was a bittersweet day for Rome’s American Catholics as it signalled the end to their association with the church they had called home for almost a century. It also marked a new chapter in the 95-year history of the American parish, which is led by the Paulist Fathers, an order of missionary priests founded in New York in 1858. Watching the removal of the pews was “much sadder than I anticipated,” said Fr Greg Apparcel, the 11th rector of the church and originally from Los Angeles. Thankfully the pews did not have to travel far – less than a kilometre away – to the newly vacated church of St Patrick’s on Via Boncompagni, just off Via Veneto.

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Cardinal James Harvey (right) dedicates St Patrick's for its new congregation on 19 November, alongside rector Fr Greg Apparcel. Photos Pino Rostellato.

America’s connection to S. Susanna dates back to 1921 when US President Warren G. Harding asked Pope Benedict XV if he could make available a parish church to serve Americans residing in Rome. The 16th-century Chiesa di S. Susanna was chosen due to its location next door to the then US embassy to Italy. The embassy

building, situated between S. Susanna and the church of S. Maria della Vittoria, was demolished by Mussolini to make way for the new Via XXVIII Marzo, today Via Bissolati, which opened in 1932. In the meantime the American embassy relocated to its current address at the expansive Palazzo Margherita on Via Veneto.


RELIGION The baroque S. Susanna church, with its travertine façade and elaborately carved ceiling, both by Carlo Maderno, was built between 1585 and 1603 for a monastery of cloistered Cistercian nuns founded on the site in 1587 and which still resides there. Maderno’s work was deemed so impressive that he was named by Pope Paul V as chief architect of St Peter’s. S. Susanna’s history, however, dates back even further. According to tradition, the pre-existing villa was adapted and consecrated as a church in the year 330, under Emperor Constantine I, and dedicated to Susanna, martyr and saint. According to Christian legend, Susanna was beheaded in her father’s house – today the site of the church – as punishment for refusing to marry the son-in-law of Emperor Diocletian. A millennium and a half later, on 22 February 1922, Cardinal William Henry O’Connell of Boston presided at the first public Mass for Rome’s American community at S. Susanna, now equipped with electric lighting and new wooden pews. The Americans and the Cistercian sisters co-existed in harmony for decades until their relationship began to deteriorate in the mid-1980s, with the nuns starting to complain of disruption to their community life. Things came to a head just before Christmas in 2012, when several large signs were erected around the church stating, in English, that S. Susanna belonged to the Cistercians. The move, which took place without consultation, marked the start of a campaign to evict the Americans from their church. The Cistercians complained to church authorities that the American community was “suffocating” their community life, according to Apparcel, who said he did his best to understand their position and accommodate their

Procession at S. Susanna in the 1920s.

wishes. Complaints centred largely on the control and use of the church, with the Cistercians bemoaning the noise and crowds during the Masses on Saturday evenings and Sunday mornings. Apparcel says the “tipping point” came on 5 July 2013, when he arrived to find the church sealed off by firemen. He was told that pieces of wood had fallen off the ceiling, an incident which led to the church’s immediate closure on safety grounds. So began a four-year exile for the American community, whose Masses were celebrated in three neighbouring churches. One of these churches was St Patrick’s on Via Boncompagni which, unbeknown to the outside world, was facing its own harsh realities. Owned by the Irish Augustinians, whose presence in Rome dates to 1656, the order had reached the decision in 2012 to leave its ministry in the Italian capital due to lack of priests. Meanwhile numerous diplomatic efforts to resolve the situation at S. Susanna involved high-ranking officials from the Vatican and the diocese

of Rome. However the negotiations proved fruitless. Eventually, following a crucial meeting with the Vatican secretary of state, Cardinal Parolin, in January 2016, Apparcel was offered St Patrick’s as a new home for the American community. And so began another round of consultations, infinitely more cordial, with the Irish Augustinians, along with a team of lawyers, architects and church officials representing both sides, resulting in a final agreement approved by the vicariate of Rome. While retaining ownership of the property, the Augustinians agreed to a 29-year lease of the church along with various offices and meeting rooms. Their terms were generous: although the Americans pay for all utilities and maintenance, they are not required to pay any rent. In January this year the Augustinian provincial Fr John Hennebry broke the news of the order’s departure to the congregation at St Patrick’s, whose foundation stone was laid in 1888 and which opened on St Patrick’s Day in 1911. Describing the decision as “very difficult”, he framed it within a larger December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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RELIGION

The St Patrick's congregation at the inauguration Mass on 19 November.

picture of a “drastically changed” situation for the Augustinians whose declining numbers left the order no choice but to leave its mission in Rome. Admitting that the order had “dreaded” the notion of St Patrick’s church lying closed, Hennebry described the arrival of the American community as a “great blessing.” Following the recently completed renovation works to the church’s office spaces, St Patrick’s Catholic American Parish in Rome was inaugurated on 19 November by Cardinal James Harvey, the Wisconsin-born archpriest of the Basilica of St Paul Outside the Walls. Central to the social aspect of its parish life is the newly rechristened St Patrick’s English-language lending library, which opened on 5 November. Founded in S. Susanna 50 years ago, today the library is stocked with around 600 books in English, including fiction, biography, history, travel and art. The library’s co-ordinator is Australian Tonia White, who invites new members as well as volunteers to become involved. The library’s opening hours (see blue box) also include Sunday mornings to suit Mass-goers.

Designed by Aristide Leonori, St Patrick’s features mosaic depictions of Ireland’s patron saint along with a Latin inscription from his writings: Ut Christiani ita et Romani sitis, meaning “As you are Christian so also be Roman”. The church’s connections with Ireland have been embraced by its new pastors, including the long-standing tradition of Irish couples getting married there. Most Irish people living in Rome are familiar with St Pat’s for hosting the Mass for Ireland’s national feast day every second year, a tradition it shares with the nearby Franciscan community at St Isidore’s. The tradition is set to continue. While joking that he doesn’t have an Irish accent, Apparcel is keen to stress that the Irish are most welcome among the American community at St Patrick’s. This welcome also extends to the existing parishioners “inherited” from the Augustinians. Apparcel says that the move to St Patrick’s and subsequent namechange have been welcomed widely among his flock who is happy to have a home once more. A major plus for the

community, given its previous experience, is that it is not required to share the church. An additional factor in the story is the church’s proximity to the US embassies to the Italian state and to the Holy See, located just across the road. In a somewhat improbable case of full circle, 85 years later the American Catholic community is once again next-door neighbours of the American diplomatic missions. The doors of S. Susanna, meanwhile, remain closed.

Mass in English: Mon-Fri at 18.00, Sat at 18.00, Sun at 09.00, 10.30. Library membership: three months (€27.50), six months (€35) or annual (€45), together with a returnable €40 deposit. Sun 10.00-12.30. Tues 11.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30. Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642014554. For full information about St Patrick’s see website www.stpatricksamericanrome.org or Facebook page.

December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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CULTURAL ACADEMIES

Margaret Stenhouse

KOREAN CULTURE IN ROME The Korean Cultural Institute in Rome celebrates its first anniversary

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he Cultural Institute of the Republic of Korea, or South Korea as it is better known internationally, opened its doors in Rome just over a year ago but its impact has already made itself felt. The five-day Korea Week in late October, celebrating the institute’s first anniversary, was fully booked for all events in the programme, which offered a full immersion experience into both traditional and contemporary K-culture. The Liberty-style villa on Via Nomentana, where the institute has its seat, operates an open-door policy, where visitors are encouraged to pop in to see the various exhibitions and participate in the courses and events available, which include language courses, cookery courses, traditional arts and crafts, dance classes, film shows, concerts, workshops and training in taekwondo – a form of martial arts that is rapidly catching on in Italy, according to institute events organiser and PR Agnese Mangano: “25,000 Italians practice this sport and we help to promote it.” The institute is also involved in promoting South Korea’s biggest up-

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

The Korean Cultural Institute on Via Nomentana operates an open-door policy for all who are interested in the country’s culture.

and-coming international event – the 2018 PyeongChang Winter Olympics and the Paralympic Games, scheduled for 9-25 February and 9-18 March 2018 respectively. Just inside the entrance, visitors are greeted by the two endearing Games mascots: Soohorang the white tiger (Korea’s guardian animal and symbol of the Winter Olympics) and

the black bear Bandabi, protector of the Paralympics. The two toys stand on either side of a giant, brightly decorated gong. This is the first taste of the mix of contemporary and traditional that is the institute’s hallmark. “The Rome centre is our biggest Korean Cultural Institute in Europe,”


CULTURAL ACADEMIES Mangano points out. “Rome has always been an important goal for the South Korean government as it is such a significant centre of culture.” Institute director Soo Myoung Lee underlined this sentiment at the inauguration last year, saying that he hoped the institute would provide a vehicle for Italian and Korean artists to meet and get to know each other so that they could share experiences and develop together. The upper floors of the institute are divided among its various activities, such as exhibition rooms, library, classrooms, arts and crafts studios and a concert hall, while the ground floor is cleverly laid out to give an introductory taste of all-round K-culture. Here, visitors can amuse themselves compiling words in Han-guel (the 22-letter Korean alphabet) on a magnetic board, or they can don a traditional Hanbok (Korean costume) to have their picture taken in the tastefully recreated Sarangbang (the typical reception room of a Hanok house). A display of typical art works from the various periods of Korean history runs along another wall, contrasting with the nearby section of screened scenes from modern K-Drama films. The small garden is decorated with a marble column by celebrated sculptor Park Eun-Sun. Readers may remember the exhibition of his works in Trajan’s Markets in Rome in 2014 and in Florence last July. The annex nearby contains the kitchens where cookery classes reveal the secrets of preparing tasty exotic specialties like Kimchi fermented food, Bibimbap (mixed vegetables, meat and rice) and Tteokgalbi (marinated beef rib). In addition to its regular courses, the institute runs a busy events programme. A Korean movie night (with

Classes for the preparation of exotic specialities take place in the institute’s kitchen.

Italian subtitles) is held on the first Friday of every month, while the last Wednesday of the month is dedicated to Korean Culture Day with traditional performances of music and dance. Two or three special events featuring visiting artists are hosted every month. These range from concerts of international classical music to K-pop teenage bands or K-jazz performers such as HG FunkTronic, one of Korea’s most popular emerging jazz groups. The end of October starred international award-winning magicians Onegun and Jordan K in a much applauded contemporary magic arts show. “All our initiatives are entirely free of charge,” Mangano stresses. “We only ask for a small contribution for the cost of materials required in some of the courses.” The five-day celebratory first anniversary focussed largely on tradition, spotlighting the talents of Korean artists and craftspeople in diverse arts. The stunning exhibition of lacquer and mother-of-pearl boxes, caskets, vases,

screens, jewel cases and small pieces of furniture – a centuries-old tradition – was replaced by a show of Giogakbo, a typical feminine art in which pieces of silk are joined together to create images. Calling it patchwork, however, does not do it justice. These drapes, which were originally conceived as Bogiaghi, or wrappings for important gifts, take many months of work and can involve over a thousand scraps, connected with minute stitches. The result is a picture gallery of harmonising colours, an impressionist’s palette representing themes such as “a walk in the forest”, “the song of flowers”, “wedding day”, “summer” and “birth”. The fashion parade of exquisite Hanbok dresses on the opening night was another feast for the eyes. The bell-skirted models, embellished with handmade silk flowers and embroidery, were the creations of South Korea’s top stylist Sun Yong Lee, designer of the costume for the December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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CULTURAL ACADEMIES Grotto, and the Jejudo Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes.

The institute held a Hanbok fashion show as part of its recent Korea Week celebrations.

Korean Miss Universe candidate. The parade opened with two statement gowns conveying a message of friendship and cooperation. One, in the colours of the Italian flag paid a tribute to the host country, while the other was decorated with the taegukgi, the red and blue ying-yang symbol of universal equilibrium in the Korean Republic national flag.

an estimated GDP growth rate of 2.8 per cent. It is also the world’s first for mobile phone shipments and airport service ranking, the world’s second in shipbuilding, exportation of synthetic fibres and semiconductor sales, and the world’s fifth in automobile production.

The Danoje Festival of Gangneung is one of the country’s oldest traditional festivals, celebrating the end of the rice-planting season in early summer and symbolising harmony and cooperation. It includes Confucian rituals, shamanistic exorcisms, traditional contests and the colourful mask-dance mimes, which present age-old themes like the triumph of the servant classes over their overbearing and conceited masters. It all ends in general jollity, with the spectators joining in the dance with the actors. Some of these traditions are included in Imaging Korea: Beyond The People Land And Time, a touring exhibition by seven photographers from Belgium, Germany, Hungary, Kazakhstan, Korea, Poland and Spain. Showing at the institute until 21 December, the exhibition comes to Italy from the Korean Institute in Budapest. The 125 images on display reflect the culture, people and landscape of Korea, providing Rome residents with a further chance to glimpse into Korean life.

Beauty in another form took centre stage on the closing night with demonstrations by skin care and K-pop Star make-up artist Chae Yeol Lim, of K-beauty products and anti-aging techniques, now making their mark in the western world. Other attractions in the programme included a concert of traditional music, craft workshops and morning and afternoon Korean tea ceremony sessions.

“Another part of our job is to encourage tourism,” Mangano says. The windows on Via Nomentana display captivating videos and posters of the nation’s myriad attractions. This country, relatively unknown to western tourists, has 12 UNESCO world heritage sites, plus 19 listed traditions and 13 on the Memory of the World Register. Unique sites on South Korean territory include the megalithic dolmens of Jeolla-do Province, the elaborately carved stone Bulguksa Temple and Buddhist shrine in the Seoguram

Although its main activity is promoting Korean culture in all its forms, the institute is also a discreet diplomatic vehicle for encouraging cooperation and trade. That the Republic has successfully coped with living under the shadow of a troublesome neighbour, North Korea (officially known as the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea), is amply demonstrated by its remarkable economic growth in a relatively short period. South Korea is now the world’s sixth exporting nation with

The Danoje festival celebrates the end of the rice planting season.

Cultural Institute of Korea, Via Nomentana 12, Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00, tel. 06441633, www.culturacorea.it.

December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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HISTORY

Martin Bennett

FROM POMPEY TO PASOLINI Time travelling on Rome’s Tram 8 between the Campidoglio and Casaletto

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o reformulate (and relocate) an old English riddle, ‘Uphill then downhill from town and back I glide / lurch, swerve, rattle, as green as I am wide / churches, museums, gelaterie flitting alongside: / What am I?’ No, not the road of the English original, but Rome’s tram 8. Until 2013 its terminus-starting point was Largo Argentina; now after a €6.6 million upgrade it reaches/leaves from the foot of the Campidoglio – history’s caput mundi. Once aboard one can use the first few minutes to gaze backward; unlike others, tram 8s are refreshingly punctual. Across Piazza Ara Coeli’s pine tops and occupying considerable eye space is the Altare alla Patria / Vittorio Emanuele monument, a.k.a. Rome’s eighth hill, Mussolini’s wedding cake, the Typewriter. Or, by those scurrilous Futurists, “a vast luxurious white urinal.” The view from the top is said to be Rome’s best since only from here is the edifice invisible. Pejoratives aside, the same hulk hosts surely Europe’s largest sculpted horse; that of Marcus Aurelius next-

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

What remains of the ancient site where Julius Caesar was murdered in 44 BC.

door seems a Shetland pony by comparison. A horse, and on 5 February 1911 a makeshift restaurant. Prior to attachment to legs and head, the newlyforged stomach was decked out with a luncheon table for nine. Around it Mayor Torlonia and foundry boss Bastianelli raised toasts in Vermouth as the gathered dignitaries tucked in to eat. The monument also contains a fascinating museum with film footage from world war two, then a room by room march through Italy’s Risorgimento toward Rome’s ill-fated 1849 Republic, the battle for which

took place on the same Gianicolo the tram will later carry one alongside. But we’re running ahead. Three beeps – as opposed the tinkling on older trams – the driver sounds departure. This being Rome’s most modern tramline (1998), air-conditioning is assured. Alongside glides Botteghe Oscure, the name adumbrating the former stretch of windowless warehouses belonging to district’s cordai or rope-makers. The street has brightened up. There’s a baguetteria, the Cypta Balbi museum, a Chinese restaurant, and finally the snazzy Caffé Ducati where biker


HISTORY buffs can enjoy an ‘ice-cream pit-stop’ and/or street-food, Ducati these days something you can eat as well as ride. Strange to contemplate how this was more or less the same route Julius Caesar would’ve taken on the day of his death, warnings notwithstanding. There in Largo Argentina’s archaeological area stood the senate annexed to Pompey’s Theatre. It was beneath a statue of Pompey, Caesar’s arch-rival, that Caesar clung for support only for Brutus to inflict the cruellest of his 23 cuts. All that’s left of the senate are some tufa blocks behind the central temple. History’s nightmare having abated somewhat, cats now quietly command the scene. Today volunteers provide care for around 150 feral felines in an underground shelter in the corner of the ruins where Via Florida meets Via di Torre Argentina. Back in 44 BC, however, Pompey’s Theatre was Rome’s largest building. Sneak a couple of streets south and in the curving façades of, first, Grotta di Pinta and, second, Via del Biscione (no. 64-84) are recognisable just two of the tiers of the 30,000 seat theatre. For an underground view visit the De Pomerizio restaurant. Below the stairs a bust of Julius Caesar, no less, welcomes you to a dining room furnished with an original pillar and bona fide piece of the theatre’s reticularium wall. A good

Italy’s ministry of justice on Via Arenula.

S. Crisogono. There is an earlier basilica below this 11th-century church in Trastevere.

10 degrees less than that outside, you can cooly browse two menus named ‘Caesar’ or ‘Brutus’. The tram veers left. At the first stop, Cairoli, behind the many-flowered square, the S. Carlo ai Catinari church presents another type of theatre – of the Baroque. Sumptuously framed by four porphyry pillars is Cortona’s lifesize altarpiece. In a scene suffused with both ominous and beneficent purple Carlo Borromeo, then archbishop of Milan andv later to be made a saint also in purple, processes among Milan’s plague-stricken populace. Cortona uses bristling diagonals – raised torches, pole-propped canopy, and, like some curative lightning rod, the bishop’s cross incorporating il Sacro Chiodo / holy nail – to create the necessary miraculous conditions, thus lending visual credence to the miraculous recoveries of the four eerily-lit figures in the foreground. Just in case, above the cross, hovers cloud-cushioned putto; above

that, in the semi-dome, Lanfranco’s fresco of S. Carlo in Glory. Fast forward four centuries and the tram continues up Via Arenula, passing more gelaterie, then the heavily embossed ministry of justice, before crossing the Tiber at Ponte Garibaldi. Its four pillars commemorate eight of Garibaldi’s battles illustrated back in the Risorgimento museum, including that of the Gianicolo. Italian unity once secured in 1870, Garibaldi, revisiting Rome as an elected politician, made taming the Tiber and its perennial floods (the last in 1870) something of an obsession. His plan to change the river’s course was left unrealised, but it did prompt the building of the embankment as a viable alternative. Raggle-taggle windmills, flax factories, harbour-fronts and beaches (among them Spiaggia della Renella / Arenula) all disappeared under the new muraglioni while, continuing southward, the then Viale del Re and now Viale di Trastevere connecting to Trastevere’s railway station. Now across the river, near the Sonnino stop a kiosk sells grattacecche, a cold dessert made with grated ice December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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HISTORY and served generally between May and October, in 20 icy flavours. A gaze away there strides the statue of Rome’s 19th century poet Gioachino Belli, its topheaviness strangely at odds with the waspish dexterity of his 2,000 sonnets. A Romanesco tripthong, then Babbo, che sta a fa’? from further down the tram shows that the dialect Belli served so well is alive and kicking. Off right, the S. Crisogono church is actually two, the lower basilica having sagged under detritus from several centuries of flooding. A Piranesi-like iron staircase takes you alarmingly downward. Out of the shadow at one point appears St Benedict, bright yellow halo intact, and next a leper, sores painfully conserved. In the tenth century the church was taken over by the Benedictines, though the first records are from five centuries earlier. Unearthed in 1923, the sarcophagi on view are even earlier, one being once converted to a baptismal font. The upper church dates from the 11th century by which time the old basilica had sunk by six metres. The Baroque connection here is in the Borghese crests adorning the ceiling together with Guercino’s painting of S. Crisogeno in Glory, except it’s a copy. Original is in the side chapel designed by the Borghese’s most famous protégé, Bernini. There’s more subterranean antiquity across the road. Opposite the Slot Palace and Sexy Shop ancient and modern meet in the form of the VII Cohort’s Excubitorium. More simply the fire station, extremely busy in Imperial times when Trastevere, absorbed into the Urbs under Augustus, contained 1,400 insulae (or ancient tenement buildings), with water available, if at all, only on the first floor. Up at Piazza Mastai’s no. 17 a plaque locates the birthplace of the French poet, Guillaume Apollinaire. Jeunesse

Villa Sciarra, once a private villa now a public park.

adieu jasmin du temps / j’ai respiré ton frais parfum / a Rome sur les chars fleuris: his memories of the carnivalon Via del Corso flitter in the shade of plane trees worthy of any Paris boulevard. The same robust amply-branched species for which the Romans once imposed a shade tax and which the Savoy dynasty planted in the late 1800s to align Rome with other European capitals. Beepity-beep. Onward to another architectural megalith, the ministry of public instruction on the right. A short walk uphill is Villa Sciarra. Once belonging to the Barberini-Sciarra family it was bombarded by superior French firepower in 1849, when an artillery battery held out here while defending Rome’s 1848-49 Republic. The surrounding streets are named after some heroes of the hour. The dilapidated pile was bought up and restored in 1902 by American diplomat turned gardener and art collector, George Washington Wurts, and 30 years later his widow, Henrietta Tower, gave it to the fascist state on condition that it became a public park. The plaque only partially commemorates the occasion; in a latterday damnatio memoriae Mussolini’s name is blanked out. With their statuary and plashing fountains the gardens are an idyllic spot for a nap. Wurt’s white peacocks have gone, but the iron cage still

stands as, just about, does a Gothic folly. The considerable Wurts-Tower art collection was also donated to the Italian state on Tower’s death and is now housed in Palazzo Venezia. Veering east at Bar Baffo, the tram proceeds up Circonvallazione Gianicolense. Rome’s greenest tramline – plane trees all the way and at S. Giovanni di Dio cypresses and acacia – it’s also one of the most gastronomic. From Trastevere station to the final stop one can count four pizzerie, one bisteccheria, one birreria, two Indian restaurants, numerous gelaterie, a whisky bar, a restaurant boasting home-made cheeses. Dolce vita on rails then, while, if you start from Campodoglio, Chinese/Japanese restaurants number a good half dozen. Up and up…until at Casaletto, where once stretched vineyards and orchard plots, it’s the end of the line. As in a reprise of the shed in Thomas the Tank Engine three other trams line up to take you back down into town. Outside a pensioner walks his dachshund amidst the scent of bougainvillea. To quote the inscription on Pasolini’s former house a few streets away on Via Giacinto Carini 45, “How new it was in the sunlight / Monteverde Vecchio.”

December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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ROME’S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS

FOR MORE DETAILS SEE WWW.MUSEIINCOMUNEROMA.IT AND WWW.BENICULTURALI.IT.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. PATRONS OF THE ARTS IN THE VATICAN MUSEUMS Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. STATE MUSEUMS BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. BORGHESE MUSEUM Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paint­ings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. CASTEL S. ANGELO MUSEUM Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

CRYPTA BALBI Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. ETRUSCAN MUSEUM AT VILLA GIULIA Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. PALAZZO CORSINI Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

MUSEO NAZIONALE D’ARTE ORIENTALE Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

PALAZZO ALTEMPS Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo


Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. PALAZZO BARBERINI Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and an­tiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. CITY MUSEUMS CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. GALLERIA COMUNALE D’ARTE MODERNA Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. MUSEO BARRACCO Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. MUSEO CANONICA Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). MUSEO DEI FORI IMPERIALI AND TRAJAN’S MARKETS Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. MUSEO NAPOLEONICO Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. MUSEO DI ROMA – PALAZZO BRASCHI Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS CASA DI GOETHE Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. DORIA PAMPHILJ GALLERY Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. GALLERIA COLONNA Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES 1/9 UNOSUNOVE 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. ARCHITETTURA ARTE MODERNA Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. ASSOCIAZIONE CULTURALE VALENTINA MONCADA Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. DOROTHY CIRCUS GALLERY Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. EX ELETTROFONICA This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. FEDERICA SCHIAVO GALLERY Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. FONDAZIONE GIULIANI PER L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. FONDAZIONE PASTIFICO CERERE This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

GALLERIA FRAMMENTI D’ARTE Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

FONDAZIONE VOLUME! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

FRANZ PALUDETTO Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. FRUTTA GALLERY This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53, tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com. GAGOSIAN GALLERY The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

GALLERIA MARIE-LAURE FLEISCH This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. GALLERIA DELLA TARTARUGA Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. GALLERIA IL SEGNO Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. GIACOMO GUIDI ARTE CONTEMPORANEA This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

NOMAS FOUNDATION Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

IL PONTE CONTEMPORANEA Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

OPERATIVA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

LA NUOVA PESA Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC MAJA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. MAGAZZINO D’ARTE MODERNA Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. MATÈRIA Matèria specialises in contemporary photographic practice and visual culture. Via Tiburtina 149, www.materiagallery.com. MONITOR This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org. MONSERRATO ARTE ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com. PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com. RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. SALA 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. SPAZIO NUOVO Gallery featuring international photographers who create dialogue between classical and contemporary art. Via d’Ascanio 20, tel. 0689572855, www. spazionuovo.net. S.T. FOTO LIBRERIA GALLERIA Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it. STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. THE GALLERY APART This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TRALEVOLTE This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. VALENTINA BONOMO Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. WUNDERKAMMERN This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net. Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.


WHERE TO GO IN ROME


PAX PALOSCIA ALICE: DOWN TO THE RABBIT HOLE 25 Nov-13 Jan Galleria Rosso20sette presents an exhibition of recent paintings, drawings, video, collage and photographs by Roman artist and illustrator Pax Paloscia who is based between Rome and New York. The works on display are themed around the “contradictions of adolescence.” Children and teenagers, sometimes depicted with guns or masks, are a recurring theme of Paloscia who occupies an artistic limbo between underground and pop culture. See cover of this edition. Galleria Rosso20sette, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27.com.

EXHIBITIONS ANDREAS GURSKY: BANGKOK 14 Dec-3 March The Gagosian Gallery marks its tenth anniversary in Rome with an exhibition of photographs by German artist Andreas Gursky, on view for the first time in Italy. The show comprises works from the Bangkok series (2011), centred on the Thai capital’s fast-flowing Chao Phraya at close range, and the monumental Ocean VI (2010), for which he used high-definition satellite photographs to generate his own interpretations of sea and land. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Bangkok exhibition by Andreas Gursky at the Gagosian Gallery. Bangkok II.

MOTO ONDOSO STABILE 3 Dec-17 Feb A group exhibition at z2o Sara Zanin Gallery offers a “fresh reflection on certain specific aspects of the medium of painting.” The show takes its cue from Anne Tyler’s 1977 short story Average Waves in Unprotected Waters, recalling the idea of an irregular surface permeated by irrepressible, continuous movement. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www. z2ogalleria.it. HISPAM: COLLETTIVA FINALE 1 Dec-7 Jan The project HISPAM involved three pairs of Spanish artists living and creating art in Rome’s suburbs over the last year. The results of the project, conceived by Loredana Calvet and Francesca Lacroce with the support of street art organisation WALLS, are displayed in a final show at the Instituto

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Traiano exhibition at Trajan’s Markets.

Cervante’s exhibition space at Piazza Navona 91, open Wed-Sat 16.00-20.00. For details see website, www.roma.cervantes.es. TRAIANO: COSTRUIRE L’IMPERO, CREARE L’EUROPA 29 Nov–16 Sept Major show dedicated to Emperor Trajan on the 1,900th anniversary of his death. In addition to outlining his public and private persona, the exhibition puts a particular emphasis on Trajan’s legacy as a “360° builder”, not just of infrastructure but also his innovative economic policies and programme of architectural works. On display are archaeological artefacts from museums in Rome and around the world, including statues, portraits and architectural decorations, alongside multimedia and interactive installations. Mercati Traianei, Via Quattro Novembre 94, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

Pax Paloscia exhibition at Rosso20Sette. Alice. Down to the rabbit hole.

MATVEY LEVENSTEIN 25 Nov-13 Jan Galleria Lorcan O’Neill shows recent portraits, landscapes and still lifes by Matvey Levenstein. The New Yorkbased artist combines his technical skills and traditional oil painting techniques, and uses copper to enhance the effects of light and shadow. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com. GIANNI PIACENTINO: WORKS 1966-2017 24 Nov-15 Jan The 30 works in this exhibition by Gianni Piacentino date from 1966 to the present day, and follows the Turin artist’s most recent shows at the Center d’Art Contemporain in Geneva and the Prada Foundation in Milan. Born in 1945 Piacentino is associated with the Arte Povera and Minimalism movements, and is known for his sculpture and painting inspired by motorcycles, automobiles and planes. Galleria Mucciaccia, Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. ANTONIETTA RAPHAËL MAFAI 23 Nov-21 Jan Exhibition comprising around 50 works, many of them never shown publicly before, by painter and sculptor Antonietta Raphaël Mafai (1895-1975). The Lithuanian artist is best known for her role in founding the Scuola Romana in 1928, together with her husband Mario Mafai at their home on Via Cavour in Rome. The movement was characterised by expressionist and neo-classical influences, documenting the artists’ daily surroundings, including the fascist demolitions of central Rome. The exhibition presents works revealing Raphaël Mafai's prevalent themes: female nudes, portraits, maternity and fertility, as well as her Jewish heritage. Museo Carlo Bilotti Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.


this annual international nativity crib exhibition at Sala del Bramante can be visited daily from 10.00-20.00, including Christmas Day. Each year the exhibition hosts some 150 nativity scenes from Italy and more than 40 other countries. In addition to contemporary reproductions of traditional 18th-century Neapolitan and Sicilian cribs, and 19th-century Roman mangers, there are modern versions made from wood, papier-mâché and terracotta, as well as unconventional materials such as sand, rice, pasta, nuts and bolts. See page 34 for more information about Christmas cribs in Rome. Sale del Bramante, Via Gabriele D’Annunzio, Piazza del Popolo, www.presepi.it.

Antoinetta Raphaël Mafai exhibition at the Museo Carlo Bilotti.

MASSIMILIANO ALIOTO. GHOSTS? 23 Nov-4 Feb The Museo Hendrik Andersen hosts an exhibition of paintings, drawings and installations that suggest “apparitions and appearances between reality and vision, dream and memory, philological reconstruction and imagination.” The works by Brindisi artist Massimiliano Alioto are exhibited alongside the 200 monumental plaster and bronze sculptures by the Norwegian artist Hendrik Christian Andersen, from whom the museum takes its name. Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini 20, tel. 063219089, www.museoandersen.beniculturali.it. 100 PRESEPI 23 Nov-7 Jan Rome has numerous Christmas cribs on display at this time of the year, the best-known of which is 100 Presepi in Piazza del Popolo. The 42nd edition of

Artisti all’Opera exhibition at Palazzo Braschi. Felice Casorati’s design for Orfeo.

ARTISTI ALL'OPERA 17 Nov-11 March This sumptuous exhibition at Palazzo Braschi explores the relationship between Rome’s opera house and artists of international renown, from 1881 to today. The artists who have worked with the Teatro dell’Opera include Pablo Picasso, as well as major Italian painters Renato Guttuso, Giorgio de Chirico and Giacomo Manzù, up to presentday figures such as William Kentridge. The show comprises the artists’ set designs, costumes, paintings, sketches and maquettes. It also shows archive film footage, with a different opera aria in each room. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10 (Piazza Navona), tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. FILIPPO LIPPI 17 Nov-18 Feb With the title Altro Rinascimento: Il giovane Filippo Lippi e la Madonna di Tarquinia, this exhibition at Palazzo Barberini celebrates the centenary of the rediscovery of Our Lady of Tarquinia, painted by the young Filippo Lippi in 1437. The work was considered fundamental in the career of the Florentine artist as it documented a break-away from the stiff style of Masaccio and was influenced by the novelties introduced by Donatello during the third decade of the 15th century. Lippo’s masterpiece is displayed among several of his other pieces from the same era, alongside works by Masaccio and Donatello. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org. I GRANDI MAESTRI: 100 ANNI DI FOTOGRAFIA LEICA 16 Nov-18 Feb The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition highlighting the important role of Leica cameras in the evolution of modern photography. The show comprises more than 350 original prints by some of the world’s most celebrated photog-

Madonna di Tarquinia (1437) by Filippo Lippi at Palazzo Barberini. Image Mauro Coen.

raphers along with vintage posters and archive documents from the 1920s onwards. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano. com. JANNIS KOUNELLIS: IMPRONTE 15 Nov-7 Jan The Istituto Centrale per la Grafica presents the last lithographs created by the Greek artist Jannis Kounellis who selected the exhibition’s prints himself before his sudden death in February this year. Kounellis worked in Rome for six decades and became a key figure in the arte povera movement around the turn of the 1970s. Istituto Centrale per la Grafica, Via della Stamperia 6, tel. 0669980238, www.grafica.beniculturali.it.

Leica exhibition at the Vittoriano. Nana, Place Blanche, Paris (1961) by Christer Strömholm. December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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GIUSEPPE ARCIMBOLDO 19 Oct-11 Feb Palazzo Barberini presents an exhibition of more than 70 works by Giuseppe Arcimboldo (1526-1593), an Italian painter best known for creating imaginative portrait heads made entirely of objects such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, fish and books. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www.barberinicorsini.org.

Beirut exhibition at MAXXI. Remembering The Light by Joana Hadjithomas & Khalil Joreige.

HOME BEIRUT: SOUNDING THE NEIGHBORS 15 Nov-20 May This exhibition examines Beirut from the perspective of creative resistance, artistic innovation and hope, through more than 100 works by artists, architects, filmmakers, musicians, dancers, researchers and activists. The exhibition also highlights the diverse ways in which conflict, memory and the future are expressed in the work of these 36 artists. Part of the MAXXI series Interactions across the Mediterranean, which explores the relationship between Europe and the Middle East. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.maxxi.art. DOROTHY CIRCUS GALLERY 11 Nov-15 Dec Rome’s Dorothy Circus Gallery, which specialises in international pop-surrealist art, celebrates its 10th anniversary by holding a special group exhibition entitled Pages From Mind Travellers Diaries. The show features a selection of the gallery’s stable of pop surrealists from around the world including Britain, Canada, Italy, Russia and the US. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www. dorothycircusgallery.it.

Pages from Mind Travellers’ Diaries exhibition at Dorothy Circus. Detail of Rain of Joy & Sorrow by Atsuko Goto.

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BERNINI 1 Nov-Feb Rome’s Galleria Borghese celebrates the 20th anniversary of its reopening with an exhibition dedicated to Gian Lorenzo Bernini, whose spectacular sculptures are among the highlights of the museum’s collection. The exhibition includes numerous loans of Bernini works from important international collections. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it. JIM DINE: HOUSE OF WORDS 27 Oct-3 Feb The prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca presents House of Words, an exhibition of works by Jim Dine, the American exponent of Pop Art and the Neo-Dada movement. The exhibition celebrates Dine’s election as an academician by the Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca, joining its ranks of foreign academics. The show comprises the artist’s entire recent series of Black Paintings, created in his Parisian studio in 2015, along with his installation The Flowering Sheets (Poet Singing). Piazza dell’Accademia di S. Luca 77, www.accademiasanluca.eu/it.

Jim Dine exhibition at Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca. The Flowering Sheets (Poet Singing).

MONET 19 Oct-28 Jan The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition devoted to Monet, the father of Impressionism, with some 60 works from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, including landscapes, portraits and his celebrated garden series of water lilies. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano.com.

STILL SHOWING

FRANCESCO TROMBADORI: L’ESSENZIALE VERITÀ DELLE COSE 13 Oct-11 Feb Rome’s municipal modern art gallery on Via Francesco Crispi examines the close connection between the Sicilianborn painter Francesco Trombadori (1886-1961) and his adopted Rome. The 60 paintings on display, painted between 1915 and 1961, span the career of Trombadori who was a prominent figure in the Scuola Romana art movement. The show also includes

TOTÒ GENIO 20 Oct-18 Feb The Museo di Roma in Trastevere traces the multi-faceted figure of Antonio de Curtis, better known by his stage name Totò, on the 50th anniversary of his death. The exhibition highlights how this old-style entertainer was not only a comedian and actor of stage and screen but also a poet and song-writer. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

Totò show at Museo di Roma in Trastevere.


ART NEWS

Francesco Trombadori exhibition at Rome’s municipal art gallery. Ritratto in Rosso.

drawings, catalogues and newspaper articles from the artist’s archives, housed in his former studio at Villa Strohl-Fern. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. HOKUSAI: SULLE ORME DEL MAESTRO 12 Oct-14 Jan The Ara Pacis displays more than 200 works by Katsushika Hokusai (17601849) including The Great Wave and One Hundred Views of Mount Fuji. The exhibition comprises Hokusai’s entire collected drawings and paintings, displayed in two phases to protect the most fragile works, including two different versions of The Great Wave. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. KONRÄD MAGI 10 Oct-28 Jan This exhibition at the Galleria Nazionale is the first major show in Europe dedicated to the work of important Estonian artist Konrad Mägi (1878-1925) known primarily for his vibrant, expressionistic landscapes. The show has been organised in collaboration with the Estonian national art museum, the Eesti Kunstimuuseum, to mark Estonia’s centenary as a republic and its current presidency of the Council of the European Union. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

ORIENTAL MUSEUM MOVES TO EUR The Italian culture ministry is to transfer Rome’s recently-closed oriental museum from its Via Merulana base in the Esquilino district to the Museo Pigorini in the city’s southern EUR suburb. The Palazzo Brancaccio headquarters of the Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale (MNAO) has been closed to the public since 1 November. Initially there was confusion surrounding the museum’s closure, which was reported as “permanent” in the media but was denounced subsequently as “fake news” by director Filippo Maria Gambari. The ministry’s decision to move the national oriental art collection is centred around the fact that the museum’s home, since its founding in 1957, has been the privately-owned Palazzo Brancaccio. The building was not large enough to house all of the museum’s 40,000 pieces from the Near and Middle East, China, Japan and Nepal as well as its collection of Islamic art. In addition it was constrained from future expansion. The move to a section of the Museo Pigorini, a expansive premises housing prehistoric Italian artefacts and ethnological material, would allow the oriental collection to be displayed in full. The new location in EUR would provide the museum with 10,000 sqm of space, compared to the 3,000 sqm on Via Merulana. The new rent of “less than one million” would be paid to the Istituto Nazionale Assicurazione Infortuni sul Lavoro (INAIL), a public non-profit body, in comparison to the former €700,000 paid to the private owners of the Palazzo Brancaccio apartments. The new location would however grant the museum space for a restaurant and bookshop which would generate additional revenue. The museum expects to begin showing part of its collection at the new EUR base by the end of this year, with its entire collection to go on gradual display during 2019. MUSEUM FOR ALL AT GNAM The National Gallery of Modern Art (GNAM) in Rome has launched an experimental project to make the museum more inclusive for people with learning disabilities. Museum For All is a free guide, downloadable from its website, that narrates its collections in a more accessible way. The guide is designed to “make the invisible visible”, taking into account characteristics common among people with mental disorders such as poor concentration and memory. www.lagallerianazionale.com. NEW ROME MURALS BY ALICE PASQUINI Celebrated Roman street artist Alice Pasquini has created a new mural at Rome’s Testaccio market depicting the love between two women. Pasquini’s work was part of events for World Day of Kindness which occurs each year on 13 November and whose message is one of togetherness and integration. The mural was also posted under the hashtag #KindComments, an initiative by the Instagram social network to promote positivity and help prevent offensive behaviour by so-called trolls, people whose online comments are designed deliberately to cause upset. Pasquini recently completed another new mural in the eastern Casilino suburb. The work was created in collaboration with the Casale Garibaldi association and can be found on Via Romolo Balzani 87. NO PEACE FOR KENTRIDGE MURAL Triumphs and Laments, the grand-scale frieze by internationally-acclaimed artist William Kentridge, has been defaced by graffiti a second time. The 550-m mural, completed along the banks of Rome’s Tiber in April 2016, was also defaced by vandals earlier this year. As with the first time, the city arranged for the cleaning of the frieze between Ponte Sisto and Ponte Mazzini. Rome’s deputy mayor and culture councillor Luca Bergamo has condemned the latest vandalisation as displaying “ignorance and contempt for both public space and the ingenuity of a great artist.” GOOD NEWS FOR ITALY’S MUSEUMS Italian state museums registered an increased revenue of about €50 million between 2013 and 2016, according to figures released by Italy’s culture minister Dario Franceschini in mid-November. The minister said the 38.4 per cent increase was a result of his ministry’s reforms of the organisation of Italy’s museum management. Franceschini said the reforms are now “bearing fruit” and reflect a “radical trend reversal”. The figures also reveal that the upward trend is expected to result in a 13.5 per cent revenue increase in 2017. Visitor numbers grew by 18.5 per cent from 2013 to 2016, reaching 45.5 million in 2016. The goal of the Italian culture ministry is to reach 50 million visitors in 2017. Andy Devane

December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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MANGASIA: WONDERLANDS OF ASIAN COMICS 7 Oct-21 Jan A comprehensive look at Asian comic books, displaying original cartoons alongside their publications as well as scripts, sketches and layout designs. The works on display come from Japan, North Korea, South Korea, India, China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines and Singapore. The exhibition also includes illustrations from emerging comic book scenes such as Bhutan, Cambodia, East Timor, Mongolia and Vietnam. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

è solo un inizio. 1968 exhibition at Galleria Nazionale. I visitatori by Michelangelo Pistoletto.

È SOLO UN INIZIO: 1968 3 Oct-14 Jan On the 50th anniversary of the 1968 protests that shook London, Paris, Berlin and Rome, the Galleria Nazionale examines the role of art within the social and political context of the era. Curated by Ester Coen, the exhibition features important Italian and international artists belonging to movements such as minimalism, conceptualism, land art and arte povera. The artists include Joan Jonas, Jannis Kounellis, Yayoi Kusama, Sol LeWitt, Richard Long, Richard Moore, Luigi Ontani, Christo, Giosetta Fioroni and Andy Warhol. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com. ENJOY: L’ARTE INCONTRA IL DIVERTIMENTO 23 Sept-25 Feb With the subtitle Art Meets Amusement, this immersive exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante features modern art works and site-specific installations by some of the world’s “most prominent and provocative protagonists of contemporary art”. Highlights of the show include the mobiles of Alexander Calder, Michael Lin’s floral floor, Matt Collishaw’s mesmerising zootrope, the neverending labyrinth of Leandro Erlich’s mirrors, the disturbing eye

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

installations of Tony Oursler and the spectacular illusory effects of TeamLab’s light works. The show is a feast for the senses and will appeal to both children and adults. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. ‘77 23 Sept-14 Jan The works of photographer Tano D’Amico and artist Pablo Echaurren recall the turbulent events in Italy in 1977, a period of social and political turmoil during the so-called Years of Lead, an era fuelled by left-wing and right-wing terrorism. Museo Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it. ROWENA HARRIS: SOFT BOUNDARIES 23 Sept-22 Dec The Gallery Apart presents its second solo show by Rowena Harris whose exhibition illustrates the ever-blurring boundaries between real and virtual, material and digital. The Gallery Apart, Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. REAL BODIES 30 Sept-10 Feb Exhibition dedicated to the human body and its organs, muscles and skeletal system. The highlight of the 350 exhibits is the series of 12 entire bodies immortalised in a variety of sporting positions, such as running and jumping, demonstrating how our muscles and tendons work. There are also four other parallel exhibits at the same venue, aimed primarily at younger visitors: Dinosaur Invasion, Cosmos Discovery, Scientopolis, and the Brikmania lego show. Guido Reni District, Via Guido Reni 7, www.realbodies.it. PICASSO: TRA CUBISMO E CLASSICISMO 1915-1925 22 Sept-21 Jan The Scuderie del Quirinale presents one of the largest exhibitions ever dedicated to Picasso in Italy, a century after the artist set foot in the country. The show examines Italy’s long-term impact on Picasso’s work – his inspiration from ancient Roman statues and erotic frescoes in Pompeii – and his private life – he met his first wife, the Russian ballet dancer Olga Khokhlova in Rome while he designed the costumes and sets for the ballet Parade. The 100 works on display range fro 1915 to 1925, comprising Cubism to Classicism, with loans from major museums in London, Paris, New York, Berlin and Barcelona. The show includes masterpieces such

Enjoy exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. Flowers and People by TeamLab.

as Olga in an Armchair (1917), Léonide Massine as Harelquin (1917), Two Women Running on the Beach (1922), and Harelquin with mirror (1923). In addition to the Scuderie, Palazzo Barberini hosts an immense canvas that Picasso painted as the backdrop for Parade, the reason for his arrival in Italy in February 1917. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. VISIONI GEOMETRICHE 23 June-17 Dec MACRO presents the fifth installment in the series of exhibitions comprising works from its collection. The show includes around 25 paintings and sculptures, dating from the early 1960s onwards, by Italian artists whose work is linked by geometric themes. MACRO, Via Nizza, 138, www.museomacro.org. ZAHA HADID AND ITALY 23 June-28 Jan MAXXI hosts an exhibition dedicated to the Italian projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, including the recentlyopened Terminal Marittimo in Salerno, the Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones, the almost complete City Life project in Milan and the MAXXI building itself. The exhibition comprises plans and three-dimensional models designed by the Iraqi architect, who had an intensive and enduring relationship with Italy until her death in March last year. In 2010 MAXXI won the World Architecture Festival (WAF) prize for World Building of the Year. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com. For more What’s On listings see page 26.


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Musica with carols and seasonal melodies. The King’s Singers will be celebrating their 50th anniversary next year with its GOLD season which includes a tour, a new album and a book. The vocal lineup of two countertenors, one tenor, two baritones and a bass has never varied since its foundation at King’s College Cambridge in 1968. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

CLASSICAL Christmas time is one of the best season for music in Rome and there are also excellent concerts in some of the city’s churches. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www. concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it. Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com. Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA BEETHOVENKLAVIER II 15 Oct-17 Dec This series is the follow-up to the programme which started last year to perform all of Beethoven’s 32 piano sonatas. In some performances the Beethoven piece is combined with a new contemporary piece of music. On 17 Dec Ilaria Loatelli plays three sonatas, opus 22 (written between 1799 and 1801), opus 109 (published in 1821) and opus 31 no 1 (part of three sonatas writ-

Lisa Batiashvili, the artist in residence at S. Cecilia this season, is conducted by Antonio Pappano on 7-10 Dec.

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

The King’s Singers at Auditorium Parco della Musica on 13 Dec.

ten between 1801-02). In the second part of the programme Nicola Campogrande performs his own composition Nudo. Beethoven’s piano sonatas were written between 1795 and 1822 and are considered an important bridge between private performances for a small audience and public ones in a concert hall. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org. COSTELLAZIONE K LETTERE INTIME 13 Dec This programme is subtitled Viaggio nell’universo di G. K (György Kurtág), with Manuel Zurria flute, Francesco Dillon cello and Emanuele Torquati piano. In addition to compositions by Kurtag there are specially commissioned works by Toshio Hosokawa, Lukas Ligeti, Howard Skempton, Peter Ablinger, Peter Eötvös as well as by Schumman and JS Bach. The Guardian has said of the Hungarian composer’s music that “in his tiny fragments lies music of unflinching emotional and existential rawness.” Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA LISA BATIASHVILI 7-10 Dec Antonio Pappano conducts the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia with violin soloist Lisa Batiashivili who is the artist in residence at S. Cecilia this season. Music by Schubert (the Unfinished symphony), Morricone (Voci di Silenzio) and Tchaikovsky (violin concerto in D Major, op 35). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. THE KING’S SINGERS CHRISTMAS GOLD 13 Dec The first in the programme of Christmas music at Auditorium Parco della

BIZET AND BORODIN 14-16 Dec Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus with wellknown and lesser-known works by Bizet and Borodin. Bizet’s symphony in C was written when the composer was 17 but was never performed in his life time. Borodin’s symphony no 2, which the composer worked on between 1869 and 1876, is considered one of his most important large-scale works. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Leonidas Kavakos and Yuja Wang play music by Janacek, Schubert, Debussy and Bartok at S. Cecilia on 18 Dec.

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS YUJA WANG 18 Dec Leonidas Kavakos violin and Yuja Wang play music by Janacek, Schubert, Debussy and Bartok. These two flamboyant musicians are brilliant soloists in their own right; when they perform together, which they now do frequently, most critics agree that it is a winning combination. They are performing this identical programme at the Wigmore Hall in London the day before the S. Cecilia concert. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com. JUAN DIEGO FLORES 20 Dec The top tenor Juan Diego Flores sings arias from Mozart, Cimarosa, Donizetti,


Offenbach and Puccini including Che gelida manina from La bohème, with Antonio Pappano conducting the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. JONAS KAUFMANN 22 Dec After Juan Diego Flores comes Jonas Kaufmann. What a triumph for Antonio Pappano and S. Cecilia. Kauffmann sings Lieder by Richard Strauss and part of Das Rosenkavalier. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI HANSLIP AND CLERICI 12 Dec Young British classical violinist Chloe Hanslip (born in 1987) and Umberto Clerici cellist perform works by Brahms with the orchestra Sinfonica Abruzzese conducted by Ulrich Windfuhr. Hanslip made her debut at the BBC Proms concerts in 2002 and made her first US tour in 2003. The number of orchestras she has played with is too long to list and her repertoire is equally impressive. Clerici was born and studied in Turin and has attended courses given by top cellists Mario Brunello, David Geringas and Steven Isserlis. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. EDGAR MOREAU 16 Dec This concert marks the Rome debut of 23-year-old cellist Edgar Moreau. His is an unusual programme of works by Hasse, Platti, Durante, Vivaldi and Boccherini, some of which can be heard on his second album, Giovincello, released by Warner Classics. Le Figaro has described Moreau as the "rising star of French cello". In November 2015 he played the Saraband from JS Bach’s

second cello suite at the ceremony at Les Invalides in tribute to the victims of the terrorist attacks. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. ORATORIO DEL GONFALONE ENOCH ARDEN NAUFRAGO PER AMORE 7 Dec This work is based on Tennyson’s tragic narrative poem Enoch Arden, which was very popular when it was published in 1864 and was then set to music by Richard Strauss in 1897. This melologo is performed by Vanessa Gravina voice and Tiziana Cosentino. The concerts at the Gonfalone are in the Oratorio del Gonfalone tucked away off Via Giulia in the historic centre. Via del Gonfalone 32/A, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. ORCHESTRA DA CAMERA DI PERUGIA 14 Dec The Perguia-based chamber orchestra plays Zanettovich’s concerto for flute and orchestra and the Brandenburg concerto no 5 by JS Bach. Via del Gonfalone 32/A, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. CONCERTS IN ROME CHURCHES There are various concerts and festivals in several churches in Rome. Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo. 21 and 28 Dec, 1 and 6 Jan. Opera at Ponte S. Angelo with arias from famous operas. St Paul’s Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Napoli, www. stpaulsrome.it. 23 Dec. Symphonic Christmas concert. S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona. Every Friday until 22 Dec. Liszt and Friends concerts. 21 and 29 Dec. Baroque Christmas concert. Capuchin Crypt, S. Maria della Concezione, Via Veneto. 22 and 29 Dec. Christmas concerts of baroque music performed by the Schola Romana Ensemble. There are also guided tours of the crypt.

ars Lounge, the 2017 recipient of the Best Irish Pub in the World. The group has been performing for almost four decades and is best known for ballads such as I will love you, When you were sweet 16, and The Green Fields of France. For tickets contact Scholars Lounge, Via del Plebiscito 101b, tel. 0669202208, www.scholarsloungerome.com. TORTURED SOUL 8 Dec Formed in Brooklyn, Tortured Soul is a group whose sound incorporates elements of electronica, jazz fusion, New York house, classic disco and nu jazz. Alcazar Live, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com. NORDIC GIANTS 12 Dec Performances by this English instrumental post-rock duo include the wearing of masks and prominent cinematic projections. Monk, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it. WEIRD BLOOM 12 Jan Luca Di Cataldo and Matteo Caminoli front the project whose music is known for its psychedelic sounds and distorted vocals. Monk, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it. BOB DYLAN 3-5 April The Auditorium Parco della Musica has announced its first big name of 2018: Bob Dylan. The veteran songsmith will perform three concerts in the auditorium’s S. Cecilia hall on 3, 4 and 5 April next year. The concerts come three years after his last performance at the Baths of Caracalla. For ticket details see Auditorium website. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, www.auditorium.com.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ Brilliant young cellist, Edgar Moreau, performs at the IUC on 16 Dec.

THE FUREYS 7 Dec Veteran Irish folk band The Fureys perform a special concert at Rome’s Schol-

Bob Dylan is to play three concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica in April. December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA DAME AUX CAMELIAS 17 Dec-13 Jan The new ballet season at La Scala begins with La Dame aux Camelias with choreography by John Neumeier and danced by the ever-popular stars Svetlana Zakaharova and Roberto Bolle. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza Filodrammatici 1, www.teatroallascala.org. GOLDBERG-VARIATIONEN 25 Jan-22 March JS Bach’s Goldberg Variations are set to a choreography by Heinz Spoerli. The work is staged for the first time at La Scala although it was created in 1993. It comes after the success of Spoerli’s Cello Suites in 2015 which inaugurated the series of ballets set to chamber music. The dancers of La Scala ballet company are accompanied on the piano played by Alexey Botvinov. Spoerli turned to dance making – he would rather be called a dance maker than a choreographer – after a career as a dancer and company director. He retired from the Zurich Ballet five years ago but the company is still committed to preserving his extensive repertoire of the reworking of many classical works as well as his own creations. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza Filodrammatici 1, www.teatroallascala.org.

Rebecca Bianchi dances in Peparini’s choreography of The Nutcracker at Teatro dell'Opera.

raphy is by Ofelia Gonzalez and Pablo Moret with students from the theatre’s ballet school. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Nazionale, Via Viminale 51. THE NUTCRACKER BY TCHAIKOVSKY 31 Dec-7 Jan This is the Giuliano Peparini choreography which was first staged at the Teatro dell’Opera in Rome in 2015 and then revamped last year. With the theatre’s stars Rebecca Bianchi, Susanna Salvi, Claudio Cocino and Michele Satriano. There is a gala opening performance on New Year’s Eve. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it. SOIRÉE FRANÇAISE 28 Jan-3 Feb Suite en Blanc with music by Edouard Lalo and choreography by Serge Lifar conducted by Carlo Donadio with Eleonora Abbagnato, the director of the Teatro dell’Opera ballet company (on 28 Jan), Rebecca Bianchi and Claudio Cocino. Pink Floyd Ballet with music by Pink Floyd and choreography by Roland Petit with principal dancers and star of the Teatro dell’Opera. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

FESTIVALS PIÙ LIBRI PIÙ LIBERI 6-10 Dec The 15th edition of the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses takes place for the first time at the Nuvola conference centre in EUR. Piú libri piú liberi offers a fiveday literary programme of conferences, lectures, readings, theatre workshops, performances and presentations. Supported by the Italian culture ministry, the annual event was founded in 2002 by Italy’s small publishers’ association to give smaller publishing houses much needed visibility. Roma Convention Centre - La Nuvola, Viale Asia, wwwww.plpl.it. ROMA GOSPEL FESTIVAL 21-31 Dec Billed as the most important festival of its genre in Europe, the Roma Gospel Festival celebrates its 22nd anniversary this year. Directed by Mario Ciampà the festival features numerous choirs, often from the US. This year’s programme includes Emmanuel Djob By The Gospel River (21-23 Dec), Benedict Gospel

TEATRO VASCELLO

The Nutcracker at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA LO SCIACCIANOCI BY TCHAIKOVSKY 5-10 Dec This is the first version of Tchaikovsky’s ballet to be performed at the Teatro dell’Opera in December. The choreog-

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TRILOGÌA 15-17 Jan Michele Pogliani and his MP3 Project is back at the Teatro Vascello with his new work Trilogìa. Pogliani worked in the United States with the Lucinda Childs Company among others and then back in Italy with the Balletto di Toscana, Balletto del Teatro Nuovo di Torino and with the Balletto di Roma. He is now immersed in his MP3 Project to train professional dancers and create videos for the world of dance. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

The Harlem Gospel Choir returns to the Roma Gospel Festival from 29-31 Dec.


Choir (25 Dec), Ananias “Markey” Montague & Salem Baptist Mass Choir (2628 Dec), and the Harlem Gospel Choir (29-31 Dec). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www.auditorium.com.

OPERA

ROME THE DAMNATION OF FAUST BY BERLIOZ 12-23 Dec The new season opens of 12 Dec with Daniele Gatti conducting Berlioz’s Damnation of Faust directed by Damiano Michieletto in a new joint production with Turin’s Teatro Regio and Palua de les Art Reina Sofia di Valencia. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma.it/en/.

MILAN ANDREA CHÉNIER BY UMBERTO GIORDANO 10 Dec-5 Jan To open the 2017-2018 season and to mark the 50th anniversary of the death of Victor de Sabata, principal conductor at La Scala from 1929-1957, Riccardo Chailly conducts a new staging of Umberto Giordano’s opera Andrea Chénier, directed by Mario Martone. Yusif Eyvazov makes his debut at La Scala, in the part of Andrea Chénier, with his wife Anna Netrebko in the part of Maddalena di Coigny. The Azerbaijan tenor is on the up-and-up, appearing for the first time last year at the Los Angeles opera and the Met as well as making his debut at the Paris Opera, the Berlin Staatsoper and the Mariinsky. He made his debut in Rome as Des Grieux in Puccini’s Manon Lascaut at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma in 2014 along with Netrebko in the lead role, conducted by Riccardo Muti. Giordano’s opera, which was inspired by the French Revolution, was an outstanding success when it was first staged at La Scala in March 1896. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

THEATRE TREND: BRITISH THEATRE FESTIVAL 10 Oct-18 Dec The 16th edition of Trend: New frontiers of the British scene takes place at Teatro Belli in Trastevere, with the support of the capital and the British Council. The drama festival provides a bridge between established and emerging British and Irish talent, and the programme contains award-winning works from noted playwrights as well as recent plays by younger authors. Translated from their original language into Italian, the December programme features Revolt. She Said. Revolt Again by Alice Birch, who won the 2014 George Devine Award for Most Promising Playwright (6-10 Dec), Blink by playwright, librettist and television writer Phil Porter (11-13 Dec) and Mother Adam by veteran playwright and actor Charles Dyer (16-17 Dec). Teatro Belli, Pizza S. Apollonia 11/a, tel. 065894875, www. teatrobelli.it.

The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma season opens with La Damnation de Faust conducted by Daniele Gatti.

OPERA NOTES December sees the opening of the two main Italian opera seasons, with Andrea Chénier by Umberto Giordano at La Scala in Milan and La Damnation de Faust by Hector Berlioz at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Al nastro di partenza due importanti stagioni liriche 2017/18. In “pole position” il Teatro alla Scala che apre con Andrea Chénier di Umberto Giordano (7 dicembre – 5 gennaio). L’opera debuttò proprio nel tempio della lirica milanese il 28 marzo 1896, con un successo enorme. In pochi anni raggiunse i più importanti teatri europei e americani, per entravi stabilmente in repertorio con favore sempre rinnovato. L’ultima apparizione alla Scala fu nel 1985 per la conduzione di Riccardo Chailly, l’attuale direttore musicale che torna ad eseguirla anche adesso. Affrontata dai più grandi tenori del passato e del presente: da Mario Del Monaco a Franco Corelli, da Gregory Kunde a Jonas Kaufmann, oggi è proposta dall’azero Yusif Eyvazov. Maddalena di Coigny, la giovane aristocratica francese amata da Andrea Chénier e cantata alla Scala da illustri “rivali” del calibro di Maria Callas e Renata Tebaldi, sarà interpretata dalla moglie di Eyvazov: la russa Anna Netrebko, tra i più celebri e applauditi soprani del momento, alla sua terza inaugurazione scaligera dopo Don Giovanni di Mozart (2011) e Giovanna d’Arco di Verdi (2015). Il terzo incomodo tra i due innamorati protagonisti dell’Andrea Chénier di Giordano sarà il baritono italiano Luca Salsi, che questa estate ha cantato con successo nell’Aida di Verdi diretta da Riccardo Muti a Salisburgo. La regia dello spettacolo spetterà a Mario Martone, che si avvarrà delle scene di Margherita Palli e dei costumi di Ursula Patzak. Il cineasta napoletano torna alla Scala dopo Le cena delle beffe sempre di Umberto Giordano e allestita nel 2016. www.teatroallascala.org. All’inaugurazione scaligera segue a ruota quella del Teatro dell’Opera di Roma con La damnation de Faust di Hector Berlioz (12-23 dicembre). Per la seconda volta, dopo il sensazionale trionfo ottenuto con Tristan und Isolde di cont. page 30

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Wagner dello scorso anno, sul podio per l’inizio di stagione ci sarà il maestro Daniele Gatti. L’enfant “terribile e prodigio” della regia d’opera e di prosa del momento, Damiano Michieletto, curerà la messa in scena, che avrà le scene di Paolo Fantin e i costumi di Carla Teti. Protagonisti principali il tenore Pavel Černoch (Faust), il basso Alex Esposito (Méphistophélès) e il mezzosoprano Veronica Simeoni (Marguerite). Hector Berlioz iniziò a lavorare a una “leggenda drammatica” tratta da Faust di Goethe già nel 1829. Rielaborò la musica nel 1845 per un’esecuzione all’Opéra-Comique di Parigi da dare il 6 dicembre 1846 in forma oratoriale, senza scene, come fosse un’opera da sala da concerto. La damnation de Faust venne “adattata” in versione teatrale per la rappresentazione del 18 febbraio 1893 al Théâtre du Casino di Montecarlo, da allora è in questa in forma scenica che il capolavoro di Hector Berlioz viene dato quasi regolarmente. L’ultima volta che apparve all’Opera di Roma fu nella stagione 1954-55 con i cantanti Mirto Picchi, Mario Petri e Miriam Pirazzini, il direttore Franco Capuana e il regista Herbert Graf, noto per essere stato il protagonista di un “importante” storico caso clinico studiato da Sigmund Freud. www.operaroma.it. Paolo Di Nicola

theatre companies. Directed by Carroll, the cast includes Juliette Bernalas, Augusto Cerruti, Gabrielle Chiararo, Bill Guion, Jonathan Hedley, Rosie Hillesley, Naomi Horsfall, Giacomo Martelli, Duné Medros, Dermot O’Connell, Tony Randell, Catherine Ann Taylor. 7 Dec 20.00.10 Dec 17.00, 20.00. For reservations email rometheatre@ gmail.com, tel. or SMS 3463612209, tel. 066879416 (after 16.00). Teatro Arciliuto, Piazza Montevecchio 5, tel. 066879419. PYGMALION 8-10 Dec This musical adaptation of My Fair Lady by Arts in English promises to be fun for all the family. Arts in English is a non-profit cultural association which stages musical theatre productions in English for an international audience. 8 Dec 21.00, 9 Dec 17.00, 21.00. 10 Dec 17.00. For tickets email artsinenglish@ outlook.com or tel. 330926387. Teatro in Portico, Circ.ne Ostiense 195, www. artsinenglish.jimdo.com. TEATRO INDIA 28 Nov-10 Dec Teatro India hosts Il ritorno di Casanova, described as a “real tragic comedy of modern consciousness”. This theatrical adaptation of Arthur Schnitzler’s 1918 novel stars Federico Tiezzi as an ageing Casanova keen to retire from the erotic escapades of his younger days. However poor Casanova’s retirement plans are thrown into disarray upon the arrival of the young Marcolina. In Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 0687752210, www. teatrodiroma.net.

Teatro India presents Il ritorno di Casanova starring Federico Tiezzi.

CASTING CALL AT IRISH COLLEGE The Irish College in Rome will once again be staging a play on St Patrick’s Day on 17 March next year. The Englishlanguage performance will be an adaptation of Brian Friel’s Making History, which tells the story of Hugh O’Neill and the flight of the Gaelic chieftans to Rome after the Battle of Kinsale. There are a number of male and female roles available for Irish or international people. No acting experience is expected. Rehearsals to begin in earnest in January. For info contact Joe Keegan: keegan_joe@hotmail.com.

SAVED 29 Nov-10 Dec Teatro Vascello presents an Italian adaptation by Tommaso Spinelli of Saved, the second and best known play by celebrated English playwright Edward Bond. Set in London in the 1960s, the play highlights the cultural poverty and frustration of a generation of unemployed young people living on council estates. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it. IF LEAR HAD A LAWYER 7, 10 Dec Fool versus the King. It takes a courageous heart. By Don Carroll for the English Theatre of Rome. Based on Shakespeare’s King Lear from a lawyer’s perspective, this is the first play by Carroll, an American attorney and longterm Rome resident who performs and directs with the city’s English-language

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Italian adaptation of Saved by Edward Bond at Teatro Vascello.



R

AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA ROMA

ROMA GOSPEL FESTIVAL XXII EDIZIONE DAL 21 AL 31 DICEMBRE

21/22/23 DICEMBRE

EMMANUEL DJOB BY THE GOSPEL RIVER 25 DICEMBRE

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BENEDICT GOSPEL CHOIR 26/27/28 DICEMBRE

ANANIAS "MARKEY" MONTAGUE & SALEM BAPTIST MASS CHOIR 29/30/31 DICEMBRE

HARLEM GOSPEL CHOIR

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of her time. The exhibition highlights both artists’ distinct approaches to portraiture, displayed alongside several works by Auguste Rodin on the centenary of his death. Claudel was known for her powerful sculptures, created from materials ranging from plaster to marble to bronze, while Peyton is celebrated for her painted portraits of subjects as diverse as David Bowie, Napoleon and Queen Elizabeth II. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it/en.

December Mostra at British School at Rome. Josephine Baker-Heaslip 2017.

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 15 Dec The Revolt of Islam: Texts, Subtexts, Contexts. This conference, organised in collaboration with the Keats-Shelley House, marks the bicentenary of Percy Bysshe Shelley’s poem The Revolt of Islam, first published in 1817 as Laon and Cythna. Papers in English and in Italian will focus on historical and contextual issues, as well as the contemporary resonances of Shelley’s poem. The conference is part of the academy’s series of events exploring east and west, in particular the misunderstandings and exchanges between the west and the Islamic world. 14.0019.00. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www. aarome.org. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 15-23 Dec The annual December Mostra at the British School at Rome features works by current Fine Arts award-holders at the BSR. The exhibition comprises a wide range of styles, reflecting the quality and varied practice of each resident. The participating artists in the show are Josephine Baker-Heaslip, Stephen Cooper, James Epps, Emily Motto, Patrick O’Keeffe, John Robertson, Jennifer Taylor and Dominic Watson. The exhibition opens on 15 Dec, 18.30-21.00, and can be visited Mon-Sat 16.30-19.00. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 31 Oct-18 Jan Collezionare al Corso. The Casa di Goethe celebrates 20 years in Rome by showcasing some highlights of its 30-year-old art collection, including some recent acquisitions. The drawings, prints and sketchbooks on display contain works by Goethe’s friends Johann Heinrich Wilhelm Tischbein, Friedrich Bury, Friedrich Preller the Elder, Philipp Hackert, Albert Christoph Dies and Christoph Heinrich Kniep. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 13 Oct-7 Jan The French Academy in Rome – Villa Medici presents Eternal Idol, an exhibition comprising paintings, drawings and prints by contemporary American artist Elizabeth Peyton and sculptures by French artist Camille Claudel (1864– 1943), one of the greatest sculptors

SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 20 Oct-20 Jan The Swiss Institute of Rome presents From Berlin with Love, an exhibition featuring the work of ten Swiss artists living in the German capital: Tina Braegger, Emilie Ding, Edgars Gluhovs, Swetlana Heger, Charlotte Herzig, Andreas Hochuli, David Hominal, Samuel Jeffery, Flora Klein and Kaspar Müller. Exhibition organisers say the show is designed to “stimulate links between artists who are perhaps still strangers in Berlin, inviting them instead to imagine themselves being together, for a period of time, in Rome.” Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Villa Maraini, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

CHILDREN ARTandSEEK 17 Dec ARTandSEEK organises English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. ARTandSEEK plans an Englishlanguage event at 10.30 on 17 Dec centred around the Monet exhibition at the Vittoriano. For more details including registration tel. 3315224440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com or see website www.artandseekforkids.com.

From Berlin with Love installation view at the Swiss Institute of Rome. Image OKNOStudio. December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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SPORT WE RUN ROME 31 Dec The seventh edition of the We Run Rome marathon takes place in the capital on New Year’s Eve, from 14.00-18.00. There are competitive and non-competitive versions of the 10-km course, which starts and finishes near the Baths of Caracalla, as well as 5-km fun run, which begins at 14.15. Last year’s event attracted 10,000 participants. Runners can register for the race in advance, either online or in person at the We Run Rome offices on Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77. For full details in English see website, www.werunrome.com/en.

Rome Baptist Church S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652-066876211. 17 Dec. Christmas music programme. 10.30. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 19.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Service, 10.30. St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 18.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Service, 11.00. St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121. 24 Dec. Christmas concert and carols 19.00. Midnight Mass 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 09.00, 10.30. St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339. 24 Dec. Holy Eucharist, 10.30. 25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas, 10.30. S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359. 24 Dec. Midnight Mass 21.00. 25 Dec. Mass 10.00. S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121. 24 Dec. Mass at 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30.

We Run Rome attracted 10,000 runners last year.

CHURCHES Each year there are a number of English language services in churches in Rome over Christmas. For the programme of Pope Francis see the Vatican calendar of religious celebrations, www.vatican.va. All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881. 24 Dec. Crib Service for children 17.00, first Eucharist of Christmas 23.30. 25 Dec. Said Eucharist 08.30; Sung Eucharist 10.30. Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. 10 Dec. Advent and Carol Service, 17.00.

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St Francis Xavier del Caravita.

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via della Caravita 7. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve carol service 18.30. Vigil Mass 19.00. Venerable English College (Roman Catholic) Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066865808. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass, 10.00.

CHRISTMAS CRIBS Rome has numerous Christmas cribs on display at this time of the year, the best-known of which is 100 Presepi exhibition in Piazza del Popolo (see page 21). The Vatican’s giant nativity scene and fir tree in St Peter’s Square will be unveiled officially at 16.30 on 7 December. This year’s crib scene has been donated by the ancient Abbey of Montevergine in the Campania region of southern Italy. The crib backdrop and twometre-high terracotta figures, complete with 18th-century Neapolitan costumes, were produced by local artisans. The Christmas tree, a 28m-high red fir, has been donated by the archdiocese of Elk in north-eastern Poland. The tree will be decorated with clay stars and baubles, designed and made by young cancer patients from several Italian hospitals, as well as a number of children from the earthquake-hit areas of central Italy. The crib and tree will remain in St Peter’s Square until 7 Jan. Another traditional-style crib can be found in the church of S. Maria in Via off Largo Chigi, which for the last six decades has housed the work of Italian members of the global crib-building association Amici del Presepio. A more unusual manger scene can be found near St Peter’s on Via dei Cavalleggeri 5. The street cleaner’s crib, owned and cared for by Rome’s rubbish collection company, has a floor containing over 1,400 different stones brought by pilgrims from all over the world. It can be visited for free each day from 15 Dec-31 Jan between 08.00 and 20.00, and on Sun and holidays 08.00-11.30.

Wanted in Rome wishes all its readers a very happy Christmas season.


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www.sssrome.it

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THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

Selection of artwork by grade 1-3 students of Ambrit International School. The students are aged 6-8 and their art teacher is Alex Humphreys.

Selma Kent 1C, age 6.

Rohan Srusti 3R, age 8.

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017


Benjamin Watson 3R, age 8.

Viola Heinemann 3L, age 8.

Ambrit International School, Via F. Tajani 50, www.ambrit-rome.com.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017


LOOK FOR MORE CLASSIFIED ADS ON WWW.WANTEDINROME.COM

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Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds are no longer accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

ACCOMMODATION VACANT IN TOWN

TRASTEVERE. Independent on a private courtyard. Living room, kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom with shower, completely furnished and provided with lining. Close to all public transport and shops. Long and short term rents. Contact marilu_ vitali@yahoo.it. VIA MERULANA - S. MARIA MAGGIORE. One single room to rent for 1 person. Shared bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Metro A & B. Tel. 338 / 7911289, 335 / 6803908. romachm@gmail.com.

JOBS VACANT

THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME IS LOOKING FOR A FINANCIAL AID COUNSELOR. The American University of Rome is looking for a Financial Aid Counselor for a maternity leave replacement to provide a wide range of services to students. The selected candidate will work closely with parents and students to outline a plan for paying for school, including personal finances, student loans, government grants and scholarships. S/he will help students and parents secure

WANTED IN ROME DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT OF THE ADVERTISEMENTS IT PUBLISHES. The Wanted in Rome office will be closed for Christmas holidays from 22 December to 7 January. CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza 31 Dec 28 Jan

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Office hours: Mon – Fri 10.00 – 16.00. Orari ufficio: lun – ven 10.00 – 16.00. Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

10 Jan 7 Feb

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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institutional, governmental and private resources for funding their college education. S/ he will be responsible for all aspects of the student financial aid process with focus on origination, disbursement and NSLDS federal database matches. The position reports to the Director of Admissions and Financial Aid. Specific duties include but are not limited to: • Counsel prospective applicants on the financial aid process and opportunities at the University. • Maintain financial aid files and student scholarship application records through utilization of proper file security and appropriate software (learning and test the functionality of new software releases as needed) providing periodic informational reports. • Determine student US federal aid eligibility and institutional aid eligibility. • Perform US Federal Direct Loan awarding and origination. • Comply with federal and institutional financial aid rules, regulations and professional judgment to assess students’ and/ or families’ ability to contribute to the cost of education. • Review and update student information on the National Student Loan Data System to resolve student eligibility issues. • Assists the Director of Admissions and Financial Aid in the maintenance and development of the financial aid policy and procedure manual. • Maintain working knowledge of federal and institutional aid programs, regulations and guidelines. • Facilitates and assists annual FSA audit. The above is a non-exhaustive description of the job duties. Responsibilities and other requirements may emerge as necessitated by changing objectives to carry out the mission of the University. Qualifications: Bachelor’s degree required and some experience working in a progressive financial aid office. English mother tongue. Attention to detail and organizational skills are a must,

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

excellent verbal and written communications skills required. Ability to successfully resolve student issues from request to resolution ensuring a positive student experience. Must be able to handle multiple tasks and priorities in a fast-paced environment. Italian working papers are essential. Fixed-term (maternity cover) for 6 months or the return of the post holder, whichever is the earlier. Full time position. To apply, please send: Presentation letter (quote re: Financial Aid Counselor 24/2017), resume and at least the name of 1 reference are to be submitted by e-mail to humanresources@ aur.edu Starting date: February 1, 2018 (or earlier) Deadline for applications: November 30, 2017 AUR is an equal opportunity employer. TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING. Tour operator is looking for outgoing English-speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area. Working time from 09.00-14.00. Contact mackhugs@gmail.com. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING. Established English School seeking qualified

English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to aurelia@ angloamericankids.it.

LESSONS

WINTER SPECIAL 15% DISCOUNT ON ITALIAN LANGUAGE LESSONS. 15% Discount on ALL Standard courses (Monday to Friday from 9.30 to 13.05) from 4 December to 19 February, hurry up and book here www.ciao-italia.it or send a mail to info@ciao-italia.it.

POETRY

A REFRAIN. I am reading the news from a paper, homicides over ravens. Watching the news from television, suicides over falliment. Better to listen to some songs from the radio, tanto pe nun pensacce, po esse un rimedio. sernicolimarco@gmail. com. ELECTORAL REFORM. We call it inciucio between Renzi


e Berlusconi. No need for a medium to say che nun serve sto Rosatellum.sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES

ESE SHORT COURSE MUSIC MANAGEMENT_INTAKE JANUARY 2018. The Professional Programme in Music Management at the European School of Economics has been developed to meet the needs of students who wish to pursue a business and management career in the music industry. A series of lectures, seminars and workshops with both regular and visiting industry specialists equips candidates with essential knowledge and skills needed to excel within each stage of the music management process. The course covers such topics as contract law, intellectual copyright, artist management and the recording industry. Practical, theoretical and strategic expertise will be provided within a challenging environment in order for students to succeed within this fast changing field. After successful completion of the programme, students will be prepared for employment opportunities as: artist manager, tour manager, booking agent, talent agent, entertainment attorney, business manager, music business consultant, record company executive, artist and repertoire representative, artist and repertoire administrator, music publisher, label manager, music supervisor, concert promoter, radio promoter, organization of music events, festivals, music awards, among many others. Internship Programme: Upon successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career objectives. An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will

determine their eligibility for a placement. Intake Dates: January 8th 2018 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional); 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday). Language of Instruction: English. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese. roma@uniese.it; admission. rome@uniese.it tel. (+39) 0648906653 www.uniese.it www. europeanschoolofeconomics. com. ESE SHORT COURSE EVENTS MANAGEMENT_INTAKE JANUARY 2018. Dreaming about being a professional in the Events Management field? The Professional Programme in Events Management at the European School of Economics aims to equip students with essential knowledge and skills needed to excel within each stage of the event management process. The course covers such topics as conceptualisation, planning, marketing, budget forecasting, event execution and post-event analysis. Practical, theoretical and strategic expertise will be provided within a challenging environment in order for students to succeed within this dynamic field. After successful completion of the programme, students will be prepared for employment opportunities in areas such as: organization of fashion & celebrity events, fashion shows, film awards, road shows, corporate events & seminars, conventions, exhibitions and trade fairs, art galleries, museums, event agencies, social and charity events, NGO events, wedding celebrations, concerts & festivals, product launches, public relation agencies and the hotel & tourism industry, among many others. Internship Programme: Upon successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career

objectives. An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will determine their eligibility for a placement. Intake Dates: January 8th 2018 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional) 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday) Language of Instruction: English Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it +39 06 48906653 www.uniese.it www. europeanschoolofeconomics. com. ESE MASTER PROGRAMME IN MANAGEMENT, MARKETING, FINANCE. The Master Programmes at ESE are designed to develop the personal and professional strengths of the individual student. The entrepreneurial education received at ESE is intended to assist individuals in defining their professional dream and put them on a specially tailored career path. ESE Master ‘s students may specialise in Marketing, Finance or Management and are also given the opportunity to further specialise in their sector of interest through the international internship placement programme. The internship is an integral part of the course of study and provides each student the opportunity to spend a 3 months working in the field of the chosen specialisation. This enables students to have excellent opportunities to enter the job market and gain exposure. ESE students have possibility to:study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1500 leading organisations around the world. Next Intake Date: January 2018. Courses Duration: 12 months in class (15-18 hrs per week) + 3-6 months internship.

December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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Language of Instruction: English. To apply http://apply. europeanschoolofeconomics. com/Ma/ Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it admission.rome@uniese.it tel. 0648906653 www.uniese.it www. europeanschoolofeconomics. com. ESE BSC IN BUSINESS ADMINISTRATION, JANUARY INTAKE 2018. The Bachelor of Science (Hons) in Business Administration aims to develop pro-active decision makers, managers and leaders for a variety of careers in business sectors in a global context. The programme focusses on innovation, creativity and leadership, making it a varied and challenging journey towards awareness of one’s own professional skills and abilities. A grouping of essential core

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subjects are uniquely combined with the study of a language, two integral internship placements, integrative workshops and the choice of three specialisations in management, marketing and finance. All BSc Business Administration students will complete two integral internship placements during their course of study, gaining academic credit towards their final award. Not only will students gain valuable work experience before entering the job market, but through the internship report assessment they will apply strong application of their studies to the experience helping them to explore and assess their specific field of interest within a professional business environment. Students will also have the added advantage of being able to pursue the BSc in Business Administration in any of the ESE campuses, whether

London, Madrid, Milan, Florence or Rome. They will have the unique opportunity to transfer between campuses on a per term or per year basis, experiencing the same programme in multiple international contexts and cultures. Intake Dates: January 2018, September 2018. Language of Instruction: English. To apply http: //apply. europeanschoolofeconomics. com/Ba/ Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: admission. rome@uniese.it, ese.roma@ uniese.it, tel. 0648906653, www.uniese.it, www. europeanschoolofeconomics. com.


USEFUL

NUMBERS ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com St Patrick’s English-Language Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642014554 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

BOOKS

CHIAMAROMA

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

CINEMAS

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 December 2017 | Wanted in Rome

47


RELIGIOUS All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35,

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tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 SUPPORT GROUPS Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 TRANSPORT • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it


Wanted in Rome 2017-18.qxp_Dicembre 14/11/17 16:43 Pagina 1

HECTOR BERLIOZ

La damnation de Faust

CONDUCTOR DIRECTOR

FIRST PERFORMANCE TUE

12 DECEMBER

7.00 PM

A

THE REPLICAS THU

14 DECEMBER

8.00 PM

B

SUN

17

4.30 PM

E

TUE

19

8.00 PM

C

THU

21

8.00 PM

F

SAT

23

6.00 PM

D

DAMIANO MICHIELETTO

ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA WITH THE PARTECIPATION OF BOYS CHOIR OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH TEATRO REGIO DI TORINO AND PALAU DE LES ARTS REINA SOFÍA DI VALENCIA

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

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YOUTH PREVIEW SAT

9 DECEMBER

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