Wanted in Rome - October 2016 by Wanted in Rome

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The english language magazine in Rome

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art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 10

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no. 10 / october 2016 editorials

ANGLICAN CENTRE IN ROME MARKS 50 YEARS Marcus Walker. . . 2 San GIMIGNANO: A TOWN OF FINE TOWERS Andy Devane. . . . . 6 AN ENGLISH-ITALIAN BESTIARY Martin Bennett. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 wanted in rome junior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 2 November and 7 December. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 23 October (for 2 November) and 27 November (for 7 December). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Detail of All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins by Yayoi Kusama. Courtesy YAYOI KUSAMA Inc., Ota Fine Arts Tokyo / Singapore and Victoria Miro, London © Yayoi Kusama. Photography by Thierry Bal. On display at LOVE. L’arte contemporanea incontra l’amore exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante, Rome. Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 03/10/2016

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35 October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

RELIGION

Marcus Walker

ANGLICAN CENTRE IN ROME MARKS 50 YEARS Events celebrating Anglican-Catholic relations are at the heart of the programme for the Golden Jubilee

n 1966 a momentous event took place which changed the shape of relations between two of the world’s largest Christian denominations, the Roman Catholic Church and the Anglican Communion. The Archbishop of Canterbury – whose predePope Francis and Archbishop Justin Welby have met several times.

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

cessors had been condemned as heretics and burned at the stake, and whose orders had been deemed absolutely null and utterly void by the Roman Catholic Church – publicly met, for the first time since the Reformation, Pope Paul VI, a man whose predecessors had

been called the Antichrist and their followers hanged, drawn and quartered by Anglicans. The meeting between Pope Paul VI and Archbishop Michael Ramsey was rich with warm words: “You have rebuilt a bridge which,

A service in the Chapel of the Anglican Centre.

for centuries, has lain fallen between the church of Rome and the church of Canterbury. You cross over with spontaneous initiative and confidence. May God bless this courage and this piety of yours.” (Pope Paul VI) “Your holiness, dear brother in Christ, I have come with the longing in my heart, which I know to be in your heart also: that we may help in the fulfilment of the prayer of our divine Lord, that all his disciples may come to unity, in the truth.” (Archbishop Michael Ramsey) But even more important were the actions: they signed a common declaration pledging to work together for unity; they set up a commission to explore the differences between their denominations; and then, most significantly of all, the Pope removed from his own finger the episcopal ring he had been given when Archbishop of Milan, and put it on the hand of the Archbishop of Canterbury. And the Archbishop of Canterbury burst into tears. That visit also saw the blessing of the Anglican Centre in Rome. Whilst the Anglican community in Rome was blessed with two parish churches (All Saints’ and St Paul’s within-the-Walls), the centre was to serve a different purpose.

It was to be the base for the Archbishop of Canterbury’s personal representative to the Holy See and to work as a diplomatic presence representing the whole Anglican Communion to the Vatican and to the city of Rome. It was to be a centre for learning, having a library which would offer the best of Anglican theology to the students of Rome. It was to be a place of hospitality in the centre of Rome where people of all Christian denominations would come and talk and share food and wine. Over the last 50 years the changes heralded by that meeting have been significant. Anglicans and Roman Catholics can now go to each other’s services – but not share the Eucharist – and do, regularly. Mixed marriages are recognised and celebrated and are a matter of great joy for both communities. Anglicans and Catholics work together intensely across the world on matters of shared mission, aid and justice, as well as supporting each other in places of great persecution, such as Nigeria or Malaysia or Iraq. While there are still significant theological differences (not least new theological differences, especially over the role of women in the church), this shouldn’t be used to underplay the

huge significance of the agreements which have been reached. The Anglican Communion and the Roman Catholic Church now substantially agree on the Eucharist. Let that sink in for a moment. One of the most significant areas of conflict during the Reformation is now a matter of substantial agreement. Over the years both churches have sought to reshape the way we worship to reflect each other’s traditions in order to give a tangible feel to the steps towards greater unity which have been taken. Since that visit in 1966, two popes have visited the Archbishop of Canterbury in England (albeit as part of wider visits) and the frequency of visits by the Archbishop of Canterbury to Rome has meant that they have almost lost their newsworthiness. This is a mark of how successful 50 years of friendship have been. Throughout these 50 years, the Anglican Centre has been the main diplomatic intermediary in Rome. It has developed programmes to bring Anglicans to Rome to introduce them to the history and modern reality of the city and the Church it hosts. It has brought Anglican scholars and art and choirs to Rome, hoping to share some of its culOctober 2016 | Wanted in Rome

RELIGION tural richness in a city which so values art and music and scholarship. Above all, though, the Anglican Centre has sought to bring people together. At one end it has helped organise those visits by the Archbishop of Canterbury which have now become so regular, but also visits by senior Anglicans from all over the world, who come to Rome to discuss the issues affecting their countries with those in the Catholic Church who might be able to work with them on dealing with a famine or inter-religious violence, or human trafficking. On another level it helps Anglicans from across the world to visit Rome – arranging exchanges between seminarians, helping parishes and dioceses explore this ancient city, and making sure each group has the chance to meet people living and working in Rome or the Vatican to help bring down the barriers of ignorance that keep us apart. It has also found great friendships in the other Christian communities here in Rome, not least the Methodists at Ponte S. Angelo, who are among its closest friends. The Anglican Centre has an amazing two days lined up on 5 and 6 October, when people from across the world (from the Indian Ocean to the Anglican province of the Congo to New York to Hong Kong to Sydney) will come to Rome to join the Archbishop of Canterbury Justin Welby as he celebrates the Anglican Centre’s Golden Jubilee and the 50th anniversary of that first public meeting between Archbishop Michael Ramsey and Pope Paul VI. With him will be 17 pairs of bishops. Each pair is an Anglican and a Catholic from a different part of the world, who have pledged to work together for justice, for Christian unity, for the Kingdom of God. Their stories should shape the way we look at Christian unity: not as a theological abstraction, but as a necessity in a world where Christians of all denominations are facing slaughter, enslavement and impoverishment. Archbishop Welby will join Pope Fran-

cis in a celebration of Vespers at which the choirs of the Sistine Chapel and Canterbury Cathedral will sing together for the first time in Rome. The service will take place at the church of S. Gregorio, founded by Pope Gregory, where St Augustine was prior before being sent by Gregory to England to convert the Anglo-Saxons (where he became the first Archbishop of Canterbury). The successor of Pope Gregory and the successor of Archbishop Augustine will join together at this church which bound their forebears. 50 years ago Princess Orietta Doria Pamphilj and her husband Frank Pogson offered to host the Anglican Centre at the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. The centre is still there 50 years on, and is delighted that their children, Prince Jonathan and Princess Gesine, have allowed it to host a gala in their magnificent art gallery to celebrate this connection. Without their support and friendship, it would hardly

have been possible for the centre to have operated so well in this city. 50 years is not a long time in Rome, but these years have been momentous in the history of the Anglican Communion. Our hope and prayer is that over the next 50 years Roman Catholics and Anglicans – and our brothers and sisters across other denominations – may discover more fully and more deeply the unity for which Christ prayed. The Revd Marcus Walker is associate director of the Anglican Centre in Rome.

The 50th anniversary events are scheduled on 5-6 October. For full details see website, www.anglicancentreinrome.org, or visit the Anglican Centre in Rome, Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302.

The centre’s library offers the best of Anglican theology to students in Rome.

October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

TRIPS OUT OF TOWN

Andy Devane

San GIMIGNANO: A TOWN OF FINE TOWERS

Autumn and spring are the best times to visit San Gimignano and its Tuscan environs

rriving in this tower-topped town in central Tuscany is always going to be a visual treat, regardless of the season. While the warmer months provide much-photographed scenes of surrounding sunflower fields, arguably the best time to visit San Gimignano is in the autumn or spring, bypassing the summer heat and high-season hordes of tourists. However, visiting between January and March is likely to be disappointing, as many businesses close during the off-season.

Rising on a hill 334m above sea level, the town is visible from a considerable distance thanks to its skyline of towers, built by local merchant families during the Middle Ages. These mediaeval traders made a fortune by exploiting the town’s key position – between Sienna and Florence – on the heavilytrod Via Francigena pilgrimage route to Rome, about 300 km to the south. Although constructed ostensibly to protect wealthy families from periodic invasion by marauding intruders, in

San Gimignano is famed for its skyline of mediaeval towers.

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

reality the towers were status symbols of prestige and power. Due to the confines of the fortified hilltop town, merchants were unable to build grandiose palaces. Instead they looked to the sky, vying with each other to build the highest and most magnificent towers. However, in 1348, San Gimignano suffered a devastating blow with the arrival of the Black Plague, which decimated its population and led to a swift reversal in its fortunes. With the once steady flow of pilgrims now re-routed

TRIPS OUT OF TOWN

The S. Fina chapel in the Collegiata Church of S. Maria Assunta is one of Italy’s finest examples of renaissance architecture, painting and sculpture.

through Florence, the town suddenly lost its core revenue and faded into obscurity before being rediscovered by 19th-century visitors on the Grand Tour of Italy. The town’s authentic appeal was also helped by Cosimo I de’ Medici, Lord of all Tuscany, who in the mid-16th century decreed that San Gimignano could not be enlarged or restructured. This has resulted in the preservation of the pre-baroque state of the historic centre which is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Modern-day visitors can marvel at splendid examples of gothic and romanesque architecture including 14 of the original 72 towers, the tallest being the 54 m Torre Grossa which is open to the public. Happily, all these centuries later, the pilgrims of old have been replaced by an abundance of tourists and the town thrives once again. Although San Gimignano gained its name from the bishop of Modena,

St Geminianus, who – according to legend – saved the inhabitants from barbarians, the town is best associated with St Serafina. Known locally as Fina, this pious orphan girl died of a debilitating disease, aged 15, after five years of agony and spiritual devotion. Her feast day is celebrated each year on 12 March, the anniversary of her death in 1253. The S. Fina chapel – one of Italy’s most prized examples of renaissance architecture, painting and sculpture – is the star attraction of the town’s fresco-filled Collegiata Church of S. Maria Assunta. The chapel contains two exquisite scenes, painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio, central to Fina’s life: her vision of Pope Gregory announcing her impending death, eight days before she died, and her subsequent funeral. Located in the central Piazza del Duomo, the Collegiata Church also contains fresco cycles depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments

– described by UNESCO as “works of outstanding beauty” – by artists such as Benozzo Gozzoli, Taddeo di Bartolo, Lippo Memmi and Bartolo di Fredi. The town hosts numerous art museums such as the Pinacoteca, which houses examples of mediaeval and high renaissance works, and the Museum of Sacred Art, a highlight of which is a selection of wooden sculptures dating from the 14th century. San Gimignano is also home to possibly the strangest, and most disturbing, museum in Italy. The Museum of Mediaeval Torture is spread out over two nearby buildings, whose graphic contents are equally unsettling, and one ticket allows access to both. It recounts, in gruesome detail, the torture methods of the Middle Ages. Should its text descriptions not be horrendous enough, the museum provides some visual aids including tortured wax models and blood-curdling illustrations. It also exhibits a range of execution and torture devices, from iron maidens and guillotines to eyegougers and fingernail extractors, and even throws in a mediaeval chastity belt for good measure. It is a compelling but nightmarish experience, and not suitable for small children or the squeamish. More family-friendly visits are provided by the Ornithological Museum with its ageing but charming collection of stuffed birds assembled by Tuscan noblewoman Marchesa Marianna Panciatichi Ximenes d’Aragona Paolucci. Located inside a deconsecrated church, the museum currently houses about 370 specimens, in various states of repair, collected locally between 1866 and 1911. A few streets away, the San Gimignano 1300 museum provides a multimedia glimpse into life 700 years ago, with a scale model of the town featuring clay recreations of its buildings and glorious past. In modern times the town has influenced numerous artists and writers October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

TRIPS OUT OF TOWN including the English novelist E. M. Forster who, after staying in San Gimignano, wrote about the fictionalised Monteriano in his 1905 novel Where Angels Fear to Tread. The Dutch graphic artist M. C. Escher immortalised the town’s skyline in two woodcut prints in the early 1920s. San Gimignano also featured prominently in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1999 semi-autobiographical film Tea with Mussolini whose central characters – a group of English ladies known as gli Scorpioni – defend the town from demolition during the German withdrawal at the end of world war two. San Gimignano is not all about art and history, however. Its centre offers an abundance of tourist shops selling ceramics, leather goods and food, while its restaurant menus contain regional specialties including rabbit cooked with the local Vernaccia white wine or risotto made with locally-produced saffron. All year round tourists arriving by coach must walk the final stretch to the centre from the car park halfway up the hill. However, motorists are permitted to check in at their hotel, provided they return their vehicle to the car park below within ten minutes. If based in San Gimignano for a few days, there are a number of hilltop villages in the surrounding area that are well worth exploring. Chief among these is the tiny fortified Monteriggioni, whose 570 m-long circular walls follow the natural contours of the hill and date to the early 13th century. Among the best preserved mediaeval walled towns in all of Italy, Monteriggioni was built by the Republic of Siena to observe the Via Francigena in the direction of Siena’s historic rival Florence. Resembling a film set, the beautifully restored village now caters exclusively to tourists, some of whom get married in the romanesque church of S. Maria Assunta in its central square, Piazza Roma. It is also possible to walk along the ancient battlements which offer

Piazza del Duomo is located in the heart of San Gimignano.

panoramic views over the Chianti and Montagnola Senese countryside. Veering off the Via Francigena, about 50 km southwest of Monteriggioni is the quaint mediaeval village of Radicondoli. Ruled by the Medici from 1554 until the fall of the powerful Florentine dynasty in the 18th century, Radicondoli is surrounded by

valleys of dense, wildlife-filled woodlands, and its graveyard contains the final resting place of pioneering Italian composer Luciano Berio, who died in 2003. However, as dusk nears, return to San Gimignano and watch the sun set over the town of fine towers and its seven-century-old silhouette.

SIDE NOTES Where to stay: Hotel Leon Bianco, Piazza della Cisterna 13, tel. 0577941294, www.leonbianco.com. Where to eat: www.peruca.eu.

Ristorante Peruca’, Via Capassi 16,

tel. 0577943136,

Tourist information: In English, www.sangimignano.com. How to get there from Rome: By car: A1 Roma-Milano northbound, taking Valdichiana exit. Follow directions for Siena, exit Poggibonsi Nord. 11 km to San Gimignano. By public transport: From S. Maria Novella station in Florence, take the EmpoliSiena train to Poggibonsi, 13 km from San Gimignano. Poggibonsi is connected by numerous Sita bus services with San Gimignano. www.sitabus.it.

October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

LANGUAGE

Martin Bennett

AN ENGLISH-ITALIAN BESTIARY

Roaming the linguistic jungle between Italian and English

isit Rome’s Bioparco in Villa Borghese and una gazzella is a gazelle, una pantera a panther, un serpente a serpent, and so on. What you see is what you get, an Italian-English one-on-one. Venture outside the gates and things become more complicated: such a neat semantic fit tends to go missing. As metaphor takes over, “signifier” and ”signified” diverge. All the more so, given that the two languages often divide up the world in wildly different ways. This article offers a brief guide to avoiding some traps and pitfalls in the semantic jungle in between. For example, that siren echoing from a side-street is from a gazzella – not the quadruped but the four-wheeled variety, this being the word for a dark blue and red-striped patrol car of the Carabinieri. Unless, of course, it’s una pantera, the light blue equivalent used by the state police. They might be after a pescecane (a profiteer, not a shark), uno sciacallo (a looter, not a jackal), or uno squalo (an aggressive fleecer, not another shark). At the other end of the zoological spectrum it might be una lucciola (a prostitute, not a firefly), or perhaps topi (mice),

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

In Italian, gazzella doubles for gazelle and squad car. Illustrations by Sadie Devane.

whether d’appartamento, d’albergo or d’auto, to name three types of thief (in contradistinction to topi di biblioteca, or harmless bookworms.) The gazzella’s and/or pantera’s prey

may even be a mafia boss: O’mussuto (the codfish), so named in Neapolitan dialect for his pale skin; or maybe O’ lupo (the wolf) for his triangular face, or – biggest catch of all – O’capitone (great

Coccodrillo can be a crocodile or a railway locomotive.

eel) for his slipperiness in wriggling out of trouble. All are mentioned by Italian anti-mafia writer Roberto Saviano in a La Repubblica article on criminal nomenclature, but with the proviso: “Behind the ridiculous and ferocious names lurk powers anything but laughable, plus communication skills exploiting popular fantasy.” This is what one might expect of la piovra (octopus or devilfish) as the criminal organisation, be it Cosa Nostra, the camorra or the ‘ndrangheta, seeks out cracks in the system to extend its reach. Lexical symbiosis between zoology and transport continues in the loanword bulldozer, which is as easily understood as the Jumbobus that appeared in a recent headline featuring the same ending up against a tree on Via Cristoforo Colombo in Rome. Coccodrillo (crocodile), however, could also be a railway wagon, bisonte (bison) a large lorry, and muletto (little mule) a forklift truck or spare family car rather than a beast of burden, while somaro (donkey) is also a dunce. Through no fault of their own, animals have thus been co-opted to lambast a whole gamut of all-too-human faults, failings and vices. An easier way of

pointing the finger. Pot calling the kettle black. To put it in Italian, it’s more a case of Il bue che dà del cornuto all’asino, the ox blaming the ass for its horns, the sign of a cuckold. Poor animals again, so we have oca giuliva for a silly goose. Rather ungrateful to the species which, up on the Capitoline hill, once saved Republican Rome from falling to the Gauls! By the same token, ocaggine (goose behaviour) is nonsense, while una papera (duck) or un granchio (crab – choose your animal) is a blunder. Lumacone (slug) is more likely a slime-ball, an archetype for hypocrisy rather than slowness. Farfalla (butterfly) is, transferred to humans, the less complimentary “flibbertigibbet”. Nor need lucciole be fireflies: “Nocturnal peripatetics, they stand in public thoroughfares, near street fires. Once they were insects,” to quote literary critic Giuseppe Pontiggia: people standing by street fires, in other words prostitutes, not people trying to keep warm by the fire. Another animal to get a bad press is capra (nanny goat). In the mouth of Vittorio Sgarbi, eminent art critic and arguably not so eminent TV polemicist and provocateur, Capre, capre, capre! has become a trademark insult directed at his

opponents. One result is that the Associazone italiana difesa animali e ambiente recently tried to take him to court for “incitement to maltreatment of goats”. One might wonder whether dictionary-makers with entries offending nigh every beast in creation might risk a whole class action in this regard. The custom goes way back: Herodotus describes how one King Cleithenes changed the name of the Dorian tribes…The names he chose were derived from the words for “donkey” and “pig”. This applied to all tribes except his own, which he named “Archelai – rulers of the people” – after his own royal office. Without any pig being consulted on its intellectual property rights, porcellum was the name given to an electoral law of questionable fairness (that was subsequently declared unconstitutional) sponsored by Lega Nord politician Roberto Calderoli – and it was Calderoli himself who later admitted the law was “a pig’s mess”. Porchetta, fresh from Ariccia, might be a delicacy at lunch time, yet porcherie and/or porcate both signify dirty tricks. Porco cane or porca vacca double the pejorative, while Tuscans are famous for even more blasphemously taking the poor pig’s name in vain. October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

LANGUAGE In politics the owl – in English associated, via the goddess Athene, with wisdom – doesn’t escape a slur either, as in prime minister Matteo Renzi’s references to gufi sobillatori – not wise but snide instigators in the dark. Anything but pappagalli (parrots), catcallers or what we might nowadays term molesters, practitioners of pappagallismo. Un cane sciolto (a dog off the lead) is a politician crossing party lines. Outside parliament or in, pidocchio (head louse) denotes a skinflint, pidocchio rifatto (face-lifted louse) an upstart or “lousy” parvenu, reuniting the common English adjective with its etymological origin. A pidocchietto, meanwhile, is, to cite a mini-Baroque masterpiece of lexicography, “un cinema di infame ordine, preferito dalla schiuma della malavita e dei cercatori di intimità particolari”, or a cinema frequented by criminal dregs and those seeking particular intimacy (Giuliano Malizia, Piccolo Dizionario Romanesco). Enough said. Proverbs also provide surprises. Some, borrowed from Latin, are directly understandable. Others though approach the same human truth from zoologically different directions. Something totally outside the majority, known in both English and Italian by the Latin term rara avis or rare bird, can also be in Italian una mosca bianca (white fly). We make mountains out of molehills, but Italians make an elephant from a fly – Fare di una mosca un elefante. Our “being left empty-handed” is restare con le mosche in mano or con un pugno di mosche, with a handful of flies. A crow is a cornacchia, no problem, until describing those wrinkles or “feet” around the eyes – in Italian also zampe di gallina (hen’s claws). Generally, Italy is more family-orientated than northern Europe. That does not stop rhyme skewing the truth towards the very negative parenti serpenti (snake relations) where English has more happily “Blood’s thicker than water”. Smell a rat in English? In Italian C’è

gatta che cova (a brooding cat). And get the wrong end of the stick? More alliteratively you’ll hear prendere lucciole per lanterne, to mistake fireflies for lanterns. A cavallo di Capodanno is not a New Year horse-ride but a period “around New Year’s Day”, horse turned zoological preposition. A cavallone, for its part, is a large wave, while a cavalletto is less likely a little horse than a hard-working metaphor for an easel or a sawhorse. And grillini (little crickets), at least on the political pages? They’re the party minions of Beppe Grillo, the loquacious comedian-turned-politician and leader of the anti-establishment Movimento Cinque Stelle (M5S). Unless they’re in your head – grilli in testa – in which case they stand for strange or outlandish ideas. And mollusco (shellfish)? “A wet”, as scorned by Margaret Thatcher, the Iron Lady. Yes, when it comes to describing human behaviour, it’s a zoo out there. Without a dictionary to hand, non-native speakers may mistake their pigione (rent) for piccione, a pigeon. No, nothing to do with pigeon-fancying: your landlord’s talking about money. Also take care not to mistake a pig’s foot for a crowbar, or piede di porco, a crow for a grappling hook (also corvo) or a small cloud for a little lamb, or pecorella. Colomba around Easter time is probably a cake, a dove only in shape. Formicolio is pins and needles and not as it might seem “ants in the pants”, more an affliction of the hands and feet. Pesce d’aprile is an April fool, cicala as often a chatterbox as a cicada, while gorilla, outside the zoo at least, is a night-club bouncer. Mosca can be a small beard, rana not a frog but breaststroke. Tosse d’asino is whoop-

Somaro, meaning donkey or ass, can also mean dunce.

ing cough, not a donkey’s cough, while una gatta da pelare (a cat to skin) means other fish to fry. Una bufala is not a large quadruped but a spoof or fabrication, while una gatta morta is a “sly boots”, not a dead feline. Martin pescatore is a bird (kingfisher) not an angler, tritone less likely a sea god than a freshwater newt. Stretching to Babel and back again, from aardvark to zanzara (mosquito), the list of possible misunderstandings and embarrassments goes on and on. Hopefully this article has shortened it a little. October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery recently relaunched near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it. Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.

Monitor

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

Enikö Nagy exhibition Sand in my Eyes: Sudanese Moments at MAXXI.

exhibitions ROME ART WEEK 24-29 Oct New contemporary art festival featuring free cultural events in Roman galleries and art studios. This collaborative non-profit venture has been organised by gallery owners to promote contemporary art in the capital. The six-day festival will be divided between contemporary Roman galleries and open studios of the city’s professional artists. Events are highlighted with a calendar and interactive map on the website, www.romeartweek.com.

The 8½ exhibition by Rodolfo Villaplana at MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea. Gloria.

ENIKÖ NAGY: SAND IN MY EYES: SUDANESE MOMENTS 19 Oct-6 Nov This installation of photography and oral literature by Enikö Nagy provides

The Time is Out of Joint exhibition coincides with the opening of the newly reorganised spaces at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea.

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

a fascinating insight into the life of 45 ethnic groups in Sudan. The travelling exhibition comprises 48 large-scale photographs and 26 traditional narratives featured in Nagy’s book of the same name, published in 2014 with 2014 with a foreword by UNESCO. During the course of her extensive research Nagy traversed 30,000 km across Sudan in a bid to reclaim the country’s rich cultural and intellectual accomplishments, overshadowed by the single narrative of conflict and poverty. The exhibition with a short film comes to Rome following showings in six other European capitals. Corner D, MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it, www.sandinmyeyes-sudan.com. YI ZHOU: FRAGMENTS OF ROME, PAST, FUTURE, PARALLEL WORLDS 21 Oct-27 Nov Fresh from her success at the Venice Biennale, Chinese interdisciplinary artist Yi Zhou displays her multimedia project at MACRO. Her installation with 3D animation contains literary references to the history of Rome and its ruins. Zhou is based between Rome, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Los Angeles. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. PICASSO EN IMAGES 14 Oct-19 Feb An exhibition featuring more than 170 photographs accompanied by a significant selection of prints, sculptures and paintings from the Musée national Picasso-Paris, illustrating the professional and private life of Pablo Picasso. The exhibition is divided into various sections examining the artist’s relationship with photography, from his early artistic experiments and subsequent collaboration with avant-garde photographers, to his use of the medium to cultivate his persona as both a legendary artist and celebrity. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. 16a QUADRIENNALE D’ARTE: ALTRI TEMPI, ALTRI MITI 13 Oct-8 Jan The 16th edition of the Quadriennale d’Arte di Roma returns to its historic venue, Palazzo delle Esposizioni. The Quadriennale, a major show to promote prevailing trends in contemporary Italian art, was first held in Rome in 1931 and the most recent edition took place in 2008. The show’s 11 curators have chosen 150 works by 100 artists, focusing on the development of Italian visual art since 2000, under the title Altri tempi, altri miti (Other

times, other myths). Supported by the Italian culture ministry, the Quadriennale will include paintings, sculpture, video installations and photography, and will be shown in 10 gallery spaces at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www. palazzoesposizioni.it. TIME IS OUT OF JOINT 11 Oct-15 April The inauguration of the exhibition Time is Out of Joint coincides with the completed refurbishment and reorganisation at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea. The reordering of the gallery spaces began in June at the behest of the new director Cristiana Collu, who took up her post last year. Taking its title from Shakespeare’s Hamlet, the exhibition explores the fluidity of the concept of time, and includes works by artists such as Giacomo Balla, Gustav Klimt, Lucio Fontana, Alberto Giacometti, Cristina Lucas, Adrian Paci, and Sophie Ristelhueber. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www. lagallerianazionale.com.

The exhibition Love: L’Arte Contemporanea Incontra L’Amore at Chiostro del Bramante includes All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.

RODOLFO VILLAPLANA: 8½ 30 Sept-12 Nov The MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea gallery presents an exhibition by Venezuelan artist Rodolfo Villaplana. Inspired by the film 8½ by Italian film director Federico Fellini, the exhibition features eight recently-painted works which focus primarily on the female characters from the movie. Portraits include the bourgeois Luisa, the sensual Carla, the serene Claudia, and the prostitute Saraghina. The exhibition is part of the “Fuori Quadriennale” series of external events attached to the 16th edition of the Quadriennale d’Arte di Roma (see page 20). Based between the UK and Tuscany, Villaplana paints mainly the human figure, focusing on the inner character of his subjects. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

LOVE. L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA INCONTRA L’AMORE 29 Sept-19 Feb Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante celebrates its 20th anniversary with a major exhibition dedicated to contemporary art and the multiple interpretations of the universally popular theme of love. This colourful show includes works by artists of the calibre of Yayoi Kusama, Tom Wesselmann, Andy Warhol, Robert Indiana, Gilbert & George, Francesco Vezzoli, Tracey Emin, Marc Quinn, Francesco Clemente and Joana Vasconcelos. A highlight is All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins by the reclusive Japanese artist Kusama. However, as the Chiostro del Bramante points out, the real stars of the show are the visitors who are given access throughout the museum with full permission to photograph all the exhibited works, before sharing their images via the official hashtag #chiostrolove. Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

JEAN ARP 30 Sept-15 Jan The Baths of Diocletian host a retrospective dedicated to Jean Arp (18871966), the important avant-garde German-French artist who was among the founders of the Dada movement a century ago, 50 years after his death. The exhibition also features works by Arp’s wife Sophie Taeuber-Arp, highlighting an extraordinary 30-year artistic partnership. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 79, tel. 0639967700.

EMANUELA GARDNER: IMAGINE 29 Sept-29 Oct The Galleria Monserrato Arte 900 presents an exhibition of analog photographs of sculpture from New York’s Central Park by Italian artist Emanuela Gardner. The gallery describes Gardner’s images as between “reality and makebelieve”, offering a dialogue between Shakespeare, Walter Scott, Robert Burns, Christopher Columbus, Giuseppe Mazzini and Beethoven, as well as depicting the children’s zoo in a wintry Central Park. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348 / 2833034.

Kiki Smith and Betty Woodman exhibit at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. Cathedral by Kiki Smith.

Jean Arp exhibition at the Baths of Diocletian. Concrétion humaine. October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Mimì Quilici Buzzacchi at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale on Via Francesco Crispi. Sole su Monte Mario.

MIMÌ QUILICI BUZZACCHI: TRA SEGNO E COLORE 22 Sept-27 Nov As part of the exhibition Roma Anni Trenta (see page 26), Rome’s municipal modern art gallery presents paintings, prints and documents illustrating the long career of Mimì Quilici Buzzacchi who began painting in Ferrara in the 1920s and continued until her death in Rome in 1990. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. MARIA SAVINO: PERCORSI LUMINOSI 22 Sept-14 Oct This exhibition of 23 works, including the specially-created Frammenti series, documents the evolving style of multifaceted Italian artist Maria Savino, whose sculptures are centred around the expressive use of light. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma. KIKI SMITH & BETTY WOODMAN 21 Sept-12 Nov Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents a dou-

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

MACRO EDGAR HONETSCHLÄGER: LOS FELIZ 23 Sept-16 Oct Exhibition showing works by noted Viennese artist, screenwriter and filmmaker Edgar Honetschläger relating to his recent film project Los Feliz. Honetschläger is best known as the co-creator of Chickens Suit, a clothing range for chickens. RACHEL HOWARD PAINTINGS OF VIOLENCE (WHY I AM NOT A MERE CHRISTIAN) 23 Sept-16 Oct Rachel Howard continues her research on religion, death and violence with an installation comprising ten paintings and a sculpture, in what is the English artist’s largest exhibition in Italy. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www.museomacro.org. ROMA POP CITY 60-67 13 July-27 Nov Paintings, sculptures, photographs and art films depicting Rome in the earlymid 1960s. The 100 works on display illustrate a lively artistic period for the capital, inspired in part by the American Pop Art movement of the late 1950s. The exhibition includes works by Baruchello, Ceroli, Fioroni, Kounellis, Mambor, Schifano and Tacchi. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

ble show with work by Kiki Smith and Betty Woodman. This is the first time that the celebrated American artists, and longtime friends, have exhibited together. Best known for her depictions of the human form, Smith’s preferred media are bronze and Nepal paper, and her work is concerned with issues such as birth, regeneration, race and gender. Woodman, who for the past 40 years has been based between Tuscany and New York, combines lacquered ceramic and painted canvas to make colourful three-dimensional works. In 2010 the late Edith Schloss, Wanted in Rome’s art critic, described Woodman as “a pixie and a wizard.... one of the most celebrated and articulate ceramicists of today.” Woodman’s sculpture and works on paper, created especially for the occasion, are shown alongside new work by Smith including Jacquard tapestries, sculpture and a room of collaged drawings. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com. ABITARE A ROMA IN PERIFERIA 21 Sept-13 Nov Exhibition by Roman photographer Rodrigo Pais documenting life in Roman suburbs during the second half of the 20th century. The photographs are divided into three sections: public construction and private develop-

ment; struggle for housing rights; living conditions. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it. MAYA ZACK: COUNTERLIGHT 19 Sept-19 Nov Israeli artist Maya Zack returns with her second exhibition at the MarieLaure Fleisch Gallery, where she presents her latest video. Counterlight was first shown last spring at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, and is inspired by the poetry of Paul Celan, whose work provides insights into the horrors he experienced in Nazi concentration camps. The video, which also examines the representation of memory, is accompanied by a series of drawings and collages. Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch, Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com/en. PIACERE, ETTORE SCOLA 17 Sept-8 Jan Exhibition of memorabilia, correspondence, drawings and awards relating to the celebrated late Italian screenwriter and film director Ettore Scola. The exhibition was organised before Scola died in Rome aged 84 at the beginning of this year. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

Identità Negate exhibition at Galleria del Cembalo. Lingering Ghosts, Nigeria by Sam Ivin.

VALERIANO CIAI 1928-2013: SEGNI E MEMORIE 16 Sept-6 Nov Retrospective exhibition dedicated to the career of 20th-century Roman painter Valeriano Ciai (1928-2013). The exhibition contains 30 works, from figurative pieces to urban landscapes, painted between 1959 and 2013. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

Los Feliz by Edgar Honetschläger at MACRO Testaccio. October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Counterlight by Maya Zack at Marie-Laure Fleisch Gallery.

IDENTITÀ NEGATE 15 Sept-26 Nov Galleria del Cembalo presents Identità negate, two photographic exhibitions telling “two stories, the silence of many.” The shows comprise Lingering Ghosts by Sam Ivin and Foibe by Sharon Ritossa. Curated by Enrico Bossan, both exhibitions are themed around “uncertain and indefinite destinies, lost trajectories.” Galleria del Cembalo, Palazzo Borghese, Largo della Fontanella di Borghese 19, tel. 0683796619, www.galleriadelcembalo.it.

STILL SHOWING LA SPINA: DALL’AGRO VATICANO A VIA DELLA CONCILIAZIONE 22 July-20 Nov Exhibition of images illustrating the Renaissance-era block of buildings, known as the Spina, that was demolished in the St Peter’s area in 1936 to make way for the vast new Via della Conciliazione. Architectural fragments and archaeological artefacts from the Spina are dis-

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

played alongside paintings and archive photographs. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. MINUTE VISIONI 25 June-31 Dec Around 100 objects are included in this exhibition dedicated to the meticulous art of micro-mosaic. The typically Roman technique reached its peak between the late 18th- and the mid-19th century, with dozens of specialist workshops located mainly between Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna. The pieces on display include paintings, tables, snuff boxes, plates, jewellery and paperweights, decorated with images of Rome as well as still lifes and animals. Museo Napoleonico, Piazza di Ponte Umberto I 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. THE LASTING: L’INTERVALLO E LA DURATA 22 June-29 Jan The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

e Contemporanea hosts an exhibition dedicated to “temporal dimensions.” The show features more than 30 large-scale works by 15 Italian and international artists, spanning various generations and media. In addition to a younger generation of artists, the exhibition includes work by Alexander Calder, Lucio Fontana, Antony Gormley, Barbara Probst, Hiroshi Sugimoto and Tatiana Trouvé. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com. CAPOLAVORI DA SCOPRIRE 1 June-8 Jan With its mix of ancient sculpture and modern industrial machinery, the Centrale Montemartini is one of Rome’s most unusual but least visited museums. New items on display include several ancient Roman mosaics and an Egyptian ivory doll, as well as a bust of Agrippina the Younger – wife of Claudius and mother of Nero – on loan from the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art museum in Copenhagen. Centrale

Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini. org. LA MISERICORDIA NELL’ARTE 31 May-27 Nov Coinciding with the Vatican’s ongoing Holy Jubilee Year of Mercy, the Capitoline Museums examines the theme of mercy through paintings, sculpture, engravings and miniatures by Italian masters. The exhibition comprises works of art from across Italy, with highlights including paintings by Guido Reni, Jacopo Bertoia and Pierre

Subleyras, as well as a bas-relief by Pietro Bernini, father of Gian Lorenzo. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. ROMA ANNI TRENTA 24 March-30 Oct With the subheading La Galleria d’Arte Moderna e le Quadriennali d’Arte 1931 – 1935 – 1939, this exhibition at Rome’s municipal modern art gallery is dedicated to the first editions of the Quadriennale di Roma, a series of shows to promote contemporary Italian art,

in the 1930s. On display are works by Capogrossi, Casorati, De Chirico, Donghi, Mafai, Marini, Scipione and Severini, alongside lesser known paintings and sculpture. The exhibition also examines the connections to the fascist regime which sought to use art to promote its vision of a resurgent Rome. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

MAXXI BASIM MAGDY 15 Sept-30 Oct Exhibition titled The Stars Were Aligned For a Century of New Beginnings by Egyptian artist Basim Magdy, fresh from being awarded the Deutsche Bank prize Artist of the Year 2016. The show includes photographs, video, drawings and installations, which challenge the boundaries between reality and fiction and ask why mankind continues to make the same mistakes. SHAHZIA SIKANDER 22 June-23 Oct Under the title Ecstasy as Sublime, Heart as Vector, this exhibition comprises over 30 works in various media created by Pakistan artist Shazia Sikander from the 1990s until the present day. Her work includes drawing, video and digital animation, with diverse themes ranging from geopolitical changes and migration, to religion and human identity. EXTRAORDINARY VISIONS: L’ITALIA CI GUARDA 2 June-23 Oct Exhibition featuring 150 images by 40 important national and international photographers who capture Italy’s beauty and contradictions. The exhibition’s themes relate to contemporary Italy and include migration, hospitality, social inclusion and identity.

Ecstasy as Sublime, Heart as Vector exhibition by Shazia Sikander at MAXXI. Portrait of the artist.

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

Federico Colli who performs for the Accademia Filarmonica Romana on 9 Oct is one of the top Italian pianists of the younger generation.

FIDELIO BY BEETHOVEN 20-24 Oct The new symphonic season begins with Beethoven’s Fidelio conducted by the S. Cecilia musical director and principal conductor, Antonio Pappano. Accademia S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. De Courbertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. ANTONIO PAPPANO YEFIM BRONFMAN 27-29 Oct Antonio Pappano conducts the Sovietborn Israeli American pianist playing Beethoven’s Emperor concerto and Schubert’s symphony number 9. Accademia S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. De Courbertin 30, www. santacecilia.it.

CLASSICAL The new music seasons get into full swing in October, with the opera seasons starting in November or December. See Romaeuropa Festival under Festivals on page 28 for more music in Rome.

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA MESSA DA REQUIEM BY VERDI 8-10 Oct Riccardo Chailly conducts Verdi’s Requiem Mass with Krassimira Stoyanova soprano, Daniela Barcellona mezzosoprano, Francesco Meli tenor and Dmitry Belosselskiy bass. This is the only performance for the general public. Teatro all Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA BEETHOVENKLAAVIER 9 Oct-18 Dec This adventurous new initiative by the Accademia Filarmonica is to encourage young Italian pianists and composers. It is divided into two parts, starting this autumn and finishing in autumn 2017. The pianists (from 20-30 years old) will play all Beethoven’s piano sonatas, ending with a piece by a contemporary Italian composer. The first concert on 9 Oct is by Federico Colli who will play Beethoven’s opus 2, 26 and 57 (Appassionata) and a work by Orazio Sciortino called Sur le tombeau de Pergolesi. Colli has been described by the magazine International Piano as one of the 30 pianists under 30 who promises to dominate the world scene in the next decades. Since he won the Leeds Piano Competition in 2010 he has become a “bit of a star” says The Guardian newspaper. Sala Casella, Accademia Filarmonica Romana, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA MARTIN FRöST 11 Oct Swedish clarinetist, Martin Fröst, performs music by Bruckner, Weber and Janácek with the Amsterdam Sinfonietta. The Amsterdam Sinfonietta is the Netherland’s only professional string orchestra and its 22 players perform under the artistic direction of Candida Thompson. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. CAMERATA SALZBURG PINCHAS ZUKERMAN 15 Oct Pinchas Zukerman is both the conductor and violinist, playing music by Stravinsky, Mozart and Tchaikovsky. Zukerman, who also plays the viola, has been nominated for 21 Grammy awards and has won two. He has made 50 recordings and has a repertoire of 100 works. He teaches at the Manhattan School of Music and is one of the new generation of teachers to take advantage of long-distance learning. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

ENNIO MORRICONE MUSIC FOR THE CINEMA 5-7 Oct Film scores by Ennio Morricone, conducted by Morricone. This is the concert that the composer had to postpone in May because of back problems. Morricone, who celebrated his 87th birthday this year, recently won an Oscar for his score for Tarantino’s The Hateful Eight. Accademia S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

BRAHMS, PETRASSI, ADÈS 29 Oct The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma orchestra performs music by Brahms, Petrassi and Ades conducted by Paul Daniel. The concert is one in a series of eight in the Concerti Specchi del Tempo programme in which music by 19th- and 20th-century and contemporary composers is chosen as a reflection of its times. The programme is introduced by Stefano Catucci. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it. October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

King Crimson perform two concerts at Auditorium Conciliazione in early November.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ festivals THE CURE 30 Oct Tickets are on sale for this English rock band which was formed in 1976 but whose only remaining original member is vocalist, guitarist and main songwriter Robert Smith. Associated with Britain’s post-punk and new wave movements in the late 1970s, The Cure embraced the emerging gothic rock genre of the early 1980s before changing track once again, and turning to more pop. The band has sold in excess of 27 million albums and has had major hits with songs such as Just Like Heaven, Lovesong and Friday I’m in Love. For tickets see TicketOne website, www. ticketone.it. Palalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport. KING CRIMSON 11-12 Nov The line-up of this veteran English group of musicians has gone through multiple changes since the original band was formed in 1968. Likewise the group’s musical style has veered away from its initial psychedelic and prog rock sound of the 1960s, incorporating elements from various other musical styles along the way. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4 tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. EUROPE 19 Nov One of the major rock bands of the 1980s performs at Rome’s Orion Club on 19 Nov. Formed in 1979, the Swedish group gained international fame after the release of its hit album The Final Countdown in 1986. The band has sold over 20 million albums world wide. For tickets see Ticket One website, www. ticketone.it. Orion Club, Viale Kennedy 52 (Ciampino), tel. 0689013645, www. orionliveclub.com.

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 24 June-3 Dec The multidisciplinary Romaeuropa Festival returns with an action-packed pro-

gramme of contemporary dance, theatre, circus, art, technology and music, under the title Portati Altrove. This year’s edition comprises 50 events, of which 34 are Italian premieres, with over 145 days of performances. Romaeuropa director Fabrizio Grifasi said this year’s programme – as the title’s altrove or “elsewhere” suggests – alludes to the organisers’ responsibility in “choosing the boundaries and characteristics” of the festival. Highlights include Forced Entertainment, featuring 36 Shakespearean works condensed into 50-minute performances over eight days at MACRO Testaccio (8-16 Oct); and The Dog Days Are Over, described as a “jumped, minimal and political work for eight performers”, by Belgian choreographer Jan Martens at Teatro Vascello (2 Nov). Contemporary American composer and long-time Rome resident Alvin Curran performs a musical retrospective at the French Academy at Villa Medici on 25 Nov. Endangered Species or The Alvin Curran Fakebook features 200 segments of sounds from across Curran’s almost 50-year career of experimentation and improvisation. The seventh edition of the festival’s futuristic section Digital Life examines

French artist Honet at this year’s Outdoor Festival. Photo Alberto Blasetti.

OUTDOOR FESTIVAL: BEYOND 1-31 Oct The seventh edition of the urban art festival Outdoor is once again based at the ex-Caserma building, a large disused military barracks on Via Guido Reni, in Rome’s Flaminio district. Under the theme Beyond, the festival continues its quest to regenerate urban spaces through contemporary art, culture, music, video and discussion. Throughout October a 70,000-sqm section of the abandoned building will be decorated with site-specific installations by 15 foreign and Italian artists. Guests can observe the politically-charged stencils of Norwegian AFK, the explosions of colour by Brooklyn’s Craig Costello, murals by Spanish artist Sebas Velasco, inflatable installations by Bristol’s Filthy Luker, fairytale illustrations by French artist Honet, graphic labyrinths by Joys, geometric patterns by Argentina’s Felipe Pantone, landscapes by Tellas, fun typographic works by Mobstr, unsettling photographs by Fakso, surreal structures by Vlady, videos by Virgilio Villoresi, the conceptual installations of Spain’s Xabier Anunzibai, and the immersive work created by the Russian art collectives Tundra and Kuril Chto. The festival has the support of the embassies of France, Norway and Spain together with the Forum Austriaco di Cultura, the Wunderkammern Gallery and the nearby MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo. For full programme, see festival website, www.out-door.it. Ex-Caserma, Via Guido Reni 7.

the interaction between visual arts and technology, and includes Zee, an immerisve audiovisual project featuring artificial fog, stroboscopes, pulse lights and surround sound, by Chicago-based Austrian artist Kurt Hentschläger; and 3D Water Matrix, a kinetic water installation by Shiro Takatani and Christian Partos. See also Dance on page 30. For booking, events and venue information tel. 0645553050 or see festival website, www.romaeuropa.net.

dance MILAN This year’s special guests at the Rome Film Fest include actress Meryl Streep and director Oliver Stone.

GISELLE 4-28 Oct There is nothing new about this revival of the Tchaikovsky favourite by Yvette Chaivire (now 99 years old) which goes back to the 1950s but the principal dancers, Roberto Bolle and Svetlana Zakharova (4, 12 and 14 Oct), will pull in the audience. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME ARIAs NO GRAVITY DANCE COMPANY 6-16 Oct A baroque mix of dance, song and music by the Emiliano Pellisario Studio. In conjunction with Accademia Filarmonica Romana at the Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, www.teatroolimpico.it.

ROME FILM FEST 13-23 Oct Academy Award winners Tom Hanks and Meryl Streep are among the top Hollywood stars to grace the red carpet at the 11th Rome Film Fest. Directed by Antonio Monda, the annual festival will see Hanks receive a Lifetime Achievement Award, together with a retrospective screening of his films. The Rome Film Fest also welcomes other leading cultural figures such as Academy Award-winning film director Oliver Stone, Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright and movie director David Mamet, New York writer and playwright Don DeLillo, and internationally-renowned Polish-American architect Daniel Libeskind. The programme pays special tribute to Michael Cimino, the recently deceased American director, screenwriter and film producer, whose epic war drama The Deer Hunter scooped five Oscars in 1978. The festival also includes a tribute to Italian director Luigi Comencini, on the 100th anniversary of his birth. The parallel but independent sidebar Alice nella città includes screenings of Captain Fantastic by Matt Ross and Storks by Nicholas Stoller and Doug Sweetland. This year’s festival will be one day longer than usual, with additional events planned outside its base at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, from the centre to the suburbs, including a red carpet event on Via dei Condotti. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. De Coubertin 30. For full details see website, www.romacinemafest.it.

BOLERO-GAÎTÉ PARISIENNE PARIOLI DANZA 18-19 Oct Two classical ballets (music by Ravel and Jacques Offenbach) with a contemporary choreography by Loris Letrillo with the Compagnia Opus Ballet. This is the second season for Paroli Danza which has programmed four dance events of different genres from Oct to April. Teatro Parioli, Via Giosuè Borsi 20, www.teatropariolipeppinodefilippo.it. ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL INSPITE OF WISHING AND WANTING BY VANDEKEYBUS 11-12 Oct First staged in 1999 Ultima Vez now returns to Rome with a new cast of 10 men to confirm Wim Vandekeybus as one of the foremost choreographers of contemporary dance. Men and their fears, desires and need for security are October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

A reworking of Inspite of Waiting and Wanting by Wim Vandekeybus for Romaeuropa Festival at Teatro Argentina (see Dance).

the focus of this work which caused a huge stir when it was first performed in Ferrara. Teatro Argentina, www.romaeuropa.net. MOBILE PIERRE RIGAL 12-16 Oct In Mobile, French choreographer Pierre Rigal explores the effects of the lack of gravity in a materialistic world. Rigal’s third solo work is a cross between dance, circus and illusion. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.romaeuropa.net or www.teatrovascello.it. RAIN ANNA TERESA DE KEERSMAEKER ROSAS STEVE REICH 14-16 Oct This is a new production of Rain which is no newcomer to the Romaeuropa Festival. But this is the Rome premiere of the reworking with a new group of ten dancers. The flow of the dance and the use of geometrical space is in sharp contrast to the rhythm of the music, Music for 18 Musicians by Steve Reich. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina, www.romaeuropa.net. CINEMATIQUE ADRIEN M & CLAIRE B 19-23 Oct In this work the use of new technology and specially designed software opens up new possibilities for the interaction between dancers and objects against a background of virtual landscapes and abstract shapes, numbers and letters. The Adrien M and Claire B company has been working in the fields of digital and performing arts since 2004. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.romaeuropa.net or www.teatrovascello.it.

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

DNA LE RECITAL DES POSTURES YASMINE HUGONNET 3-4 NOV The section DNA is dedicated to a group of talented young international choreographers. The first in the DNA section is Le Recital des Postures by and with Yasmine Hugonnet (Switzerland). The second is 3Tracks4 by C&C Company/Residenza Idra (Italy, France and Israel). The third is Elvedon by Christos Papadopoulos (Greece) with his company Leon and The Wolf. The fourth is Kokoro, the first full-length choreography by Spanish choreographer and dancer Lali Ayguadé who has worked with the Akram Khan Company in England. London critics described her as an exceptional dancer in 2010. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, www.teatarodiroma.it.

RELATIVE COLLIDER LIZ SANTORO AND PIERRE GODARD 28-29 Oct This is the second work by this duo. Here structure and chaos collide and the dancers’ bodies are in a permanent state of transition. Santoro and Godard have scientific backgrounds on which they have constructed their creativity. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.romaeuropa.net or www.teatrovascello.it. THE DOG DAYS ARE OVER JAN MARTENS 2 Nov This new choreography by Jan Martens with eight dancers is based on the jump, its possibilities within confined spaces, its effect on the body and the personality of the dancers. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.romaeuropa. net or www.teatrovascello.it.

NoGravity dance company performs Aria at Teatro Olimpico.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SWAN LAKE 30 Sept-5 Nov A pre-season performance of Swan Lake at the Teatro dell’Opera with the stars and ballet school of the Rome opera house. This version was choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon in 2004 for the Philadelphia Ballet. THE NUTCRACKER 18-24 Dec This is a repeat of the ballet that marked the beginning of the new artistic direction of the opera’s ballet academy by Eleonora Abbagnato last year. Although it is a traditional Christmas work Abbagnato considers it a fundamental piece of the classical repertoire both for dancers and for the audience. The new choreography by Giuliano Peparini – who not only has television experience but also a strong classical background with Roland Petit – clocked up record audiences last year. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

TURIN TORINODANZA FESTIVAL 6 Sept-3 Nov This festival, with its ties to the Lyon dance festival, manages to attract all the big names of contemporary dance: Alain Platel, Oliver Dubois, Angelin Preljocaj, the Batsheva Dance Company, Kiss and Cry. On 13 Oct there is the Italian premiere of Odio by Daniel Abreu who examines hatred in all its forms with the young dancers of Fattoria Vittadini. 15 Oct it is the turn of Albertine, Hector and Charles by Denis Plassard with three puppets, three dancers and three voices. Its sub-title is Un coreografia dell’inferno. 0n 18-19 Oct there is an evening dedicated to the works of the Israeli choreographer Itzik Galili. 22-26 Oct is the eagerly awaited Cold Blood by the dancing hands of the collective Kiss & Cry. The Annonciaton by the Ballet Preljocaj and other works by the Albanian-born choreographer are on 28-29 Oct. Most events take place in the Teatro Regio or the Fonderie Limone. For more details of locations see www.torinodanzafestival.it.

opera

(tema a lui molto caro) e la fitta rete di emozioni e tensioni psicologiche che li legano con grande maestria, creando per mezzo di una piccola orchestra di soli quattordici strumenti solisti sonorità inquietanti e atmosfere misteriose. Tutto ruota intorno a un “leitmotiv” che risuona nei quindici interludi che collegano le scene dell’opera, opportunamente variato ogni volta, e che parte dall’iniziale tonalità di “la” minore, cupa e oppressiva, per giungere a quella finale di “la” maggiore, più luminosa e positiva. Perché con la morte di Miles, l’irrazionale, fantasioso e creativo mondo dell’infanzia è finalmente liberato da quello degli adulti, alimentato conflittualmente e perennemente dalla corruzione (i fantasmi), dall’eccessiva razionalità e dall’ottusa e “buona” coscienza borghese (l’istitutrice).

gio di Parma, www.teatroregiaparma. org. See Opera Notes on page 33.

Paolo Di Nicola

TRISTAN UND ISOLDE BY WAGNER 27 Nov Wagner’s opera is conducted by Daniel Gatti and directed by Pierre Audi with Andreas Schager as Tristano and Rachel Nicholls as Isolde. It is a new co-production with the Paris ChampsElysees Theatre and the Amsterdam National Opera. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www. operaroma.it.

PARMA VERDI OPERA FESTIVAL 1-30 Oct The annual festival for lovers of Verdi opera. This year the festival starts with a new production of Verdi’s Don Carlo (1, 5, 8, 11 Oct) conducted by Daniel Oren and directed by Cesare Lievi. Teatro Re-

ROME UN BALLO IN MASCHERA BY VERDI 16-30 Oct This is a new production in cooperation with the Teatro dell’Opera di Malmo conducted by Jesus Lopez-Cobos and directed by Leo Muscato. It is the Italian theatre director’s first Ballo in Maschera, which was performed in Sweden in March, but his Rigoletto, which will be performed at the Rome opera house this coming November, was first staged there in 2014 and then again the following year. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

MILAN THE TURN OF THE SCREW BY BRITTEN 14 Sept-17 Oct Ian Bostridge, famous for his concerts, now sings in this scenic new production of Benjamin Britten’s opera, conducted by Christoph Eschenbach, directed by Kasper Holten, director of opera at the Royal Opera Theatre until 2017. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. The turn of the screw di Benjamin Britten tratta di una nuova produzione che vedrà impegnati sul podio Christoph Eschenbach e in palcoscenico Kasper Holten, l’attuale direttore artistico della Royal Opera House di Londra. Tra gli interpreti principali Miah Persson, al suo debutto scaligero, e Ian Bostridge, l’illustre interprete di lieder che finalmente a Milano si esibirà in un’opera dopo tanti recital di successo. The turn of the screw, tratto dall’omonimo e splendido racconto di Henry James, racconta di due bambini, Miles e sua sorella Flora, perseguitati dai fantasmi dei loro passati malvagi servitori e aiutati a liberarsene, ma purtroppo invano, dalla nuova istitutrice. Britten indaga il mondo soprannaturale e dell’infanzia perseguitata e violata

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

The Turn of the Screw at La Scala in Milan. Photo Brescia e Amisano © Teatro alla Scala.

OPERA NOTES All’Opera di Firenze per l’intera seconda settimana d’ottobre cinque serate di musica lirica da non perdere. Si comincia con Rosmonda d’Inghilterra di Gaetano Donizetti (9, 12 e 15 ottobre) in forma di concerto, con tre specialisti del belcanto: Jessica Pratt, Eva Mei e Michael Spyres e per la direzione di Sebastiano Rolli. E un titolo poco conosciuto del compositore bergamasco e di rara esecuzione: ebbe la sua prima rappresentazione proprio a Firenze nel 1834, per poi cadere nel dimenticatoio ed essere riscoperto soltanto nel 1975. Pur non essendo un capolavoro presenta pagine pregevoli, come l’aria di sortita della protagonista e il duetto tra Rosmonda ed Eleonora, la rivale in amore. Interpreti di allora furono rispettivamente Fanny Tacchinardi-Persiani (il soprano che cantò la prima Lucia di Lammermoor) e Anna Del Sere (che doveva essere la prima Elisabetta Tudor nella Maria Stuarda, poi annullata). Al Teatro Goldoni è proposta l’opera Le cinesi (13, 15, 16 e 18 ottobre) su libretto di Pietro Metastasio musicato da Manuel del Pópulo Vicente García, il grande tenore primo interprete del Barbiere di Siviglia di Rossini. Le cinesi fu scritta nel 1831 per gli allievi dell’Accademia di Parigi che erano accompagnati non dall’orchestra ma da un pianoforte, che a Firenze è suonato da Michele D’Elia, mentre la regia è curata da Jochen Schönleber. C’è poi la serie di concerti di canto: il primo è di Chris Merritt (10 ottobre), accompagnato al pianoforte da Beatrice Benzi. Tenore di punta della Belcanto-Renaissance degli anni ’80 del secolo scorso, adesso si esibisce in arie da camera di autori italiani come Scarlatti, Bononcini, Bellini, Donizetti e Rossini. Gli altri due recital vedono impegnati tre dei più accreditati cantanti belcantistici di oggi. Il tenore Michael Spyres con l’Orchestra e il Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino diretti da David Parry (11 ottobre) propone scene, arie e cavatine da Elisabetta, regina d’Inghilterra, Otello, Ricciardo e Zoraide, Ermione, La donna del lago e Zelmira, tutte di Gioachino Rossini e tutte scritte per Andrea Nozzari, celebre e grande “baritenore” di primo Ottocento. Jessica Pratt e Shalva Mukeria diretti da Fabrizio Maria Carminati (14 ottobre) propongono belle pagine da famose opere “romantiche” italiane del calibro di Lucia di Lammermoor di Donizetti e I puritani di Bellini, affiancate da altre meno note ma pur sempre assai apprezzabili: Il duca d’Alba ancora di Donizetti e Orazi e Curiazi di Mercadante. Al via il Festival Verdi (1-30 ottobre) a Parma e a Busseto, città natale del compositore. In cartellone quattro opere che scandiscono altrettanti momenti ben precisi della vita di Verdi: la giovinezza con Giovanna d’Arco (2-20 ottobre) e I masnadieri (7-29 ottobre), la grande popolarità con Il trovatore (21-30 ottobre) e infine la grandiosa maturità che si manifesta nel Don Carlo (1-11 ottobre). è quest’ultima l’opera inaugurale. Verrà proposta la versione del 1884 in italiano, riveduta e corretta e ridotta a quattro atti, di quella originale in francese e in cinque atti, che già alla prima parigina del 1867 per l’eccessiva lunghezza fu tagliata di una buona quantità di musica. A proposito di questa versione modificata a malincuore, Verdi disse: «Riduco in quattro atti il Don Carlos […] Dal momento che mi si dovevano tagliar le gambe, ho preferito affilare ed adoperare io stesso il coltello». Ben sette i ruoli principali, tutti difficili e impegnativi da cantare e interpretare: Filippo II, Re di Spagna (Michele Pertusi); Don Carlo, suo figlio (José Bros); Rodrigo, amico fraterno dell’erede al trono (Vladimir Stoyanov); Il Grande Inquisitore, cieco e nonagenario (Ievghen Orlov); un frate che si rivelerà il fantasma di Carlo V (Simon Lim); Elisabetta di Valois, moglie di Filippo ma amata segretamente e invano dal figliastro (Serena Farnocchia) e La Principessa d’Eboli, amante del re ma invaghita di Don Carlo (Marianne Cornetti). Dirigerà Daniel Oren. Lo spettacolo è una nuova produzione e avrà la regia di Cesare Lievi, con le scene e i costumi di Maurizio Balò e le luci di Andrea Borelli. Paolo Di Nicola

theatre LE VIE DEI FESTIVAL 22 Sept-16 Oct Rome’s annual appointment with contemporary drama offers a selection of successful productions from international drama festivals, and in the past has featured heavyweights such as Eimuntas Nekrosius, William Kentridge and Alain Platel. It also acts as a platform for innovative Italian drama, and offers a number of productions for younger theatre fans. Highlights of the 23rd edition of the festival include Concerto per Amleto by Fabrizio Gifuni (8 Oct, Auditorium Parco della Musica), Nina (Montreux 1976) dedicated to Nina Simone, by Nicola Russo and starring Sara Borsarelli (14 Oct, Teatro del Lido), and Quella Notte che la Notte non venne by Emanuele Di Giacomo (16 Oct, Teatro del Lido), as well as a series of productions aimed at young people. The plays are staged in different venues around Rome including Teatro Vascello, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Museo Laboratorio della Mente, Hortus Urbis, Biblioteca Quarticciolo, Biblioteca Collina della Pace, and the Teatro del Lido in Ostia. In Italian. For full details see website, www.leviedeifestival.com. SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE THEATRE 5-9 Oct This year’s much-expanded programme at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre marks the 400th anniversary of the death of Shakespeare. The festival, once again directed by popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti, ends on a highnote for Rome’s English speakers: the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company returns for the second year, with an English-language production of The Tempest directed by Chris Pickles (5-9 Oct). Rome’s Globe Theatre, located in the heart of Villa Borghese, is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. For details see website, www.globetheatreroma.com. ROME SAVOYARDS FUNDRAISER 14 Oct The Rome Savoyards holds a fundraising event on 14 Oct from 19.00-21.00, at St Stephen’s School. There will be aperitivi and refreshments, a raffle and light entertainment by company members. The cost is €25 per person and all proceeds go to Plays in Rome, the cultural and non-profit association created by The Rome Savoyards to fund future shows. Guests must RSVP by 10 October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Bookings and info email playsinrome@ yahoo.com or tel. 347 / 8248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, off Viale Mazzini, www.teatrosangenesio.it.

Sara Borsarelli in Nina (Montreux 1976) for Le vie dei festival.

October, email playsinrome@yahoo. com, tel. 347/8248661. St Stephen’s School, Via Aventina 3.

ian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it.

THE GLASS MENAGERIE 21-30 Oct As part of John Cabot University’s annual Italy Reads programme, the English Theatre of Rome stages an English-language performance of the Tennessee Williams classic, directed by Lee Andrew Archer, starring Frank Baj, Tracy Caputo, Martina Angelucci and Al Mariotti. When this four-character memory play premiered in 1944 it catapulted Williams from obscurity to international fame. The play’s action centres around the memories of the narrator, Tom Wingfield, who supports his mother Amanda and sister Laura. Things take a dramatic turn with the arrival of Laura’s suitor Jim. Ten performances are slated to run during the final two weekends of October at John Cabot University, Via Lungara 233. For further information including tickets and times, rometheatre@gmail.com.

TEATRO INDIA 26 Oct-20 Nov Massimo Popolizio directs a performance of Ragazzi di vita, the controversial 1956 work by Italian author, poet and intellectual Pier Paolo Pasolini, for Teatro India. The story follows the escapades of street urchins and rent boys in the impoverished suburbs of postwar Rome. In Italian. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.teatrodiroma.net.

TRAPPOLA PER TOPI 18-30 Oct Agatha Christie’s classic mystery murder play The Mousetrap opened in London’s West End in 1952 and has been running continuously ever since, becoming the longest-running show in the modern era. The action takes place at a London hotel where guests become snowed in together before learning of a murder in the vicinity. When one of the party is killed, suspicion turns on each of the surviving guests as well as the hosts. According to tradition, the audience is requested not to reveal the surprise ending on leaving the theatre. Director Stefano Messina describes the play as “a perfect blend of suspense, thriller and comedy.” In Ital-

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 28 Oct The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity (in English) features the club’s founder Marsha De Salvatore with regulars Liz Knight, Ryan Costello and Jose Salgado along with visiting Bangladeshi comedian Naveed Mahbub. Doors open as usual at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should book in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere. ROME SAVOYARDS 1-6 Nov The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome present She Stoops to Conquer by Oliver Goldsmith. This classic comedy of deception and seduction centres around two well-to-do young London men, Marlow and Hastings, who arrive in the countryside in search of romance with females of the lower classes. Things take a comic twist after the pair are tricked into believing their wealthy host Mr Hardcastle is a humble innkeeper, and his daughter Kate a maid. Directed by Sandra Provost. 1-4 November at 20.30, 5-6 Nov at 17.30.

PETER PAN 11-20 Nov This award-winning musical production, based on the children’s classic by J.M. Barrie and with soundtrack by Edoardo Bennato, returns to Teatro Brancaccio. Director Maurizio Colombi creates a magical world, with 20 performers on stage, Peter Pan flying overhead and duels with the pirates of Captain Hook, while the audience can summon Tinkerbell by shouting Io credo alle fate (I believe in fairies). Teatro Brancaccio, tel. 0680687231, Via Merulana 244, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 13 Oct-27 Nov The exhibition A View of One’s Own: Three Women Photographers in Rome. features the work of Esther Van Deman, Georgina Masson and Jeannette Montgomery Barron, three expat photographers whose images of Rome span the early 20th century until today. Van Deman was an American archaeologist who photographed Rome and its surroundings in the 1910s; Masson was a British author whose 1965 classic The Companion Guide to Rome is still used by visitors to the Eternal City; and Montgomery Barron is a Rome-based American photographer who captures contemporary glimpses of the modern-day capital. 15 Oct. Accademia Aperta/Open Academy comprises free tours of the McKim, Mead & White Building, from 15.0018.00 on 15 Oct. Tours, in English and in Italian, leave from the front gate every half hour and are free of charge. Registration is required. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065852151, www.aarome.org. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 13 Oct Cy Twombly’s Mediterranean Passages. Launching her book Reading Cy Twombly: Poetry in Paint, Mary Jacobus asks: How much do we need to know about Twombly’s quotations and how do they affect the viewer’s experience of his work? During her talk at the British School of Rome Jacobus, Professor Emerita at the University of Cambridge and at Cornell University, will

explore the use of quotations in one of Twombly’s major works, Say Goodbye, Catullus, to the shores of Asia Minor, which spanned two decades and was completed in time for the American painter’s 1994 MoMA retrospective. The enormous tripartite canvas includes a palimpsest of passages drawn but, from a distance, it appears empty. Twombly was based in Rome from the 1950s until his death in 2011. Jacobus was a visiting scholar at the British School at Rome in 2013 where she completed her book Reading Cy Twombly: Poetry in Paint. 18.00–19.30. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE 23 Sept-13 Nov The exhibition At the foot of the Pyramid: 300 years of the cemetery for foreigners in Rome marks the 300th anniversary of the city’s Non-Catholic Cemetery. Comprising important international loans, the exhibition is the first to reveal how artists have depicted the so-called Protestant Cemetery from the 18th to the early-20th centuries. The more than 40 European and American paintings, drawings and prints on display reflect the cemetery’s beauty as well as documenting its history and gradual transformation. The exhibition includes works by Turner, Crane, Roesler Franz, Karl Friedrich Schinkel and Munch. Curated by Nicholas Stanley-Price, the exhibition is organised in conjunction with the Casa di Goethe, under the auspices of the 15 embassies that administer the Non-Catholic Cemetery. The show’s catalogue is published in English, Italian and German. See Stanley-Price article on Wanted in Rome website. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 14 Oct-15 Jan To celebrate its 350th anniversary the French Academy in Rome – Villa Medici presents the exhibition 350 Years of Creativity: The Artists of the French Academy in Rome from Louis XIV to the Present. The exhibition highlights the creative output of the academy’s artists, from residents to directors, during their time in Rome. It includes over 100 works dating from 1666 to the present day, by artists such as Fragonard, David, Ingres, Berlioz, Garnier, Carpeaux, Debussy and Balthus. The exhibition comprises paintings, drawings, statues, prints, musical scores and archive material, ending with a video of works created by residents in recent decades. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

British School at Rome. Cy Twombly, Untitled Painting, detail, 1994. Menil Collection © Cy Twombly Foundation. Photo by Adam Baker.

La vita fissata nell’ambra exhibition by Aleksander Chmiel and Marek Wyszomirski at the Polish Academy of Science.

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE 20 Sept-25 Nov The Polish Academy of Science hosts La vita fissata nell’ambra, a photographic exhibition by Aleksander Chmiel and Marek Wyszomirski. The exhibition features images of ants and spiders from some 40 million years ago, fossilised in tree resin and preserved to this day in amber. The specimens photographed belong to the collection of the Earth Museum at the Polish Academy of Science in Warsaw. Rome’s Polish Academy of Science is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Polish Academy of Science, Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www. accademiapolacca.it.

books BOOK SALE AT S. SUSANNA LIBRARY 12-30 Oct The latest book sale by the S. Susanna Library, the English-language lending library in Rome, includes a “terrific assortment of children’s books, and the usual great selection of paperbacks”, according to library coordinator Tonia White. The sale, whose proceeds go towards the library’s running costs, takes place during normal opening hours: Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30, Fri 13.00-16.00, Sun 10.00-12.30. To learn more check out the library’s Twitter and Facebook pages, or email susannalibrary@gmail.com. October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

ART AND SEEK Maya Ballumbrosio (aged 11) from St George’s British International School Nomentana, writes about her Year 6 poetry and art projects with ARTandSEEK.

One of the most exciting activities that happened in Year 6 this year was an art workshop run by ARTandSEEK, (who run museum tours and workshops for children in English) in conjunction with the Keats Shelley House. Two art historians (Viviana and Isadora), came to give us a lesson every Wednesday for three weeks about poetry and art. We learnt about different poets, saw portraits of them, made our own artwork and wrote our own poems. Year 5 joined us for the lessons and both classes enjoyed it enormously. On the first week we learnt about Percy Shelley. They showed us a picture of him when he was young, and then a portrait of him when he was older. The class said he looked pensive and that it looked like he had been painted when he was thinking. The ladies showed us a carving in wood of a woman with long hair and a man. They asked us what words came into our heads when we looked at the picture. People said things like sadness, love, darkness, spiral etc.… The teachers put us in groups that we would be working in for the following weeks. They told us to choose three words or more from the list we made and make a poem using them in our groups. Our group did a poem called Sad Love:

At the end of the session we found out that if we continued all our good work he would display it in the Keats Shelley House. We learnt about Lord Byron that week. They showed us a picture of him and they asked us what we thought he looked like, to guess his personality and character just by looking at his portrait. They told us that he had travelled a lot, and in each new place he went to, he tried to fit in with the people there by wearing their clothes. We read his poem When we two parted and then we saw a modern video for the old poem. They gave us each a photocopy of the original manuscript of When we two parted that is in the Keats Shelley House. They told us that he had asked Mary Shelley to rewrite his manuscripts because she had neat handwriting. Since Lord Byron’s handwriting was so messy, Mary Shelley didn’t understand all of his words, so she wrote other words in their places.

The ladies showed us a visual poem done by an Italian futurist which was about war. They told us to do our own visual poem, and they said we could cut out words from the poem and from magazines that we all brought in. We could also cut out pictures and write phrases or words. They showed us a portrait of a boy with a poem on top of it. The poem was about him, his personality and his character. We wrote our own poem by swapping a photo or drawing of ourselves that we needed to bring in with someone else in the class, and write a poem about them. I did a poem on a girl in my class which goes like this: The girl who you can trust. The one, who is always ready to help you, Who you can always count on, To be there for you. Her radiant smile lights up the world, Her golden hair glistens in the sun.

We were surrounded by darkness. It was like a dream, unreal. I was face to face with love. But slowly sadness was creeping upon me, Because I knew it wouldn’t last. The second week was quite exciting because the director of the Keats Shelley House (Giuseppe Albano) came to see our work and he looked impressed!

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

St George’s British International School, Nomentana.

Frankenstein collage inspired by Mary Shelley.

Her blue eyes can see into your soul, And her kind words can heal any deep cut. Giulia, the special girl, Who is filled with happiness and joy, Who is always beside you in hard times, And who makes the sun shine. On the third week we learnt about Mary Shelley and about Frankenstein. They showed us the first episode in a season of a television series about Frankenstein. They gave us an extract of the book and told us to write a poem based on one of its sentences. We went round the room listening to each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s poems. They split us up in three groups and they told us what we had to do. The ladies had drawn a Frankenstein with a border. One group had to do Frankenstein and use materials and paper to fill in his clothes and colour him in. Another group had to use materials to decorate the border and the third group had to fill the background with words. The

groups all did their jobs and when we put all three together it looked good. We heard that it was official, the poetry and artwork that we did in all three sessions would be displayed in the Keats Shelley House. How cool was that! On Saturday 7 May the Keats Shelley House displayed our artwork in a small room. We came to see the exhibition with our parents and our class teachers, Miss Kida and Miss Montanucci. There were some snacks and a television showing some photos of us drawing and us writing our poems. It was an awesome experience!!!!

ARTandSEEK organises English-lan-

guage visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For details tel. 331 / 5524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website www.artandseekforkids.com.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers Wanted in Rome is accepting contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the studentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town COSY APARTMENT IN PIAZZA EPIRO AVAILABLE NOW. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished and equipped, renovated, living room, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12mins walk from Colosseum. €1.500

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month. Other Pics-available. airleas. rome@gmail.com.

pola and close to district food market. Marina.a.j7@gmail.com.

GARDEN FLAT MONTEVERDE NUOVO. Twin bedroom, living room convertible into bedroom bathroom kitchen 30sqm terrace €950, 347 / 3608854 NO FEES. https://www. airbnb.it/rooms/46498.

ROOM IN TRASTEVERE. In a beautiful apartment full of light, in a calm and silent area. Large room with balcony and use of kitchen, Wi-Fi, for students. €700/month. Expenses included. Paola 349 / 1192205, p.monzini@ gmail.com.

MANZONI AREA. Furnished studios: 1) For single person €480 monthly minimum 3 months 2) Garden flat €800 monthly minimum 9 months. Email: dellascala4@ gmail.com. PRATI CLOSE TO VATICAN. Furnished 90 sqm apartment, three bedrooms, open living, kitchen, bathroom 2 balconies, elevator, 9th floor, fast Wi-Fi, 10 min walk Ottaviano station Metro Line A / bus. Wonderful view of St Peter’s cu-

S. MARIA MAGGIORE. Single room, between S. M. Maggiore and S. Giovanni, metro A/B, share bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Wi-Fi. Tel. 338 / 7911289.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Jobs vacant ADJUNCT PROFESSOR WANTED IN ROME. Opening for adjunct professor in Master of Laws (LL.M.) program in rule of law for development. Loyola University Chicago School of Law. Delivered at Loyola John Felice Rome

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Center. Course on design of rule of law projects and programs. Spring semester 2017. Possibility of annual appointment. Course already prepared. Qualifications required: Substantial experience in project design, proposal preparation and implementation of internationally financed rule of law projects. Advanced degree, preferably in law. Substantial field experience. Fluent English. Send CV to prolaw@luc. edu by 31 October 2016.https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=Q1iF1FWYOKs. COLOSSEUM TOUR PROMOTERS. Tour Operator seeks energetic, selfmotivated promoters to sell Colosseum guided tours outside the monument. Commissions on sales job with potential for great earnings. Experience in sales and native English speakers preferred. Please call Magdalena at + 39 324 / 7492725. 14.00-21.00. palbriz@hotmail.com. CREATIVE, RESILIENT NATIVE EMT NURSERY SCHOOL TEACHER. Our NEW third branch is REGGIO APPROACH in style and philosophy. Are you motivated and driven? Do you believe in team work? We are looking to train commited, adaptive, EMT nursery school teachers who are enthusiastic about learning how to implement the Reggio method. We are a small professional team, strong believers in the competence of children. Please only contact us if you have strong empathy for 3 to 6 year olds and are keen to grow professionally.didactic.reggio@ gmail.com. EMT NANNY (LIVE OUT). Looking for an experienced English mother tongue nanny to look after 2 kids (4yo and 2yo). Monday to Friday 14.0019.00. Location EUR. Good references and driving license. Please send CV to: cripalm@libero.it. ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ENGLISH LANGUAGE TEACHER NEEDED. English Language teacher needed, preferably with Teaching qualification, CELTA-TEFL for English course for 2 kids from next week. 1 day per week 17.00-18.00 (Tuesday , Thursday or Friday). Please send cv to info@ ciao-italia.it. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHER. Bilingual kindergarten is seeking an auxiliary teacher part-time.info@ universitadeibambini.it. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. Full and part time English Language Teachers for our schools in Rome. Candidates must be native speakers and have: a degree, teaching experience, relevant teaching certification. Positions starting from September. info@englishscool.it. FULL TIME - ENGLISH MOTHERTONGUE SECRETARY. Studio Dottori Commercialisti in Roma, Via Aurora (Via Veneto) is seeking a full time english mother tongue secretary. Opportunity to learn about Commercialista job. Please send cv to segreteria@ studiointernazionale.org. HANDYMAN/ FACILITIES COORDINATOR/MAINTENANCE. Comforts of Home/Comforts of Italy, Europe Study Abroad Housing specialist, is looking for the following for its growing Rome office: Handyman/Facilities CoordinatorSelected candidates will join our Facilities Management team, which services and manages some 20 apartments throughout Rome according to the Company high standards. The Handyman/Facilities Coordinator responsibilities include but are not limited to: performing a variety of minor repairs (plumbing, electricity, and car-

pentry) and knowing when an outside contractor may be necessarycoordinating and performing deliveries of furniture and soft goods to dozens of new properties preparing Comforts of Home new properties prior to client arrivals, including furniture assembly and appliance set-up, and ensuring the safety of electrical and plumbing installations. Perform special projects and other duties as assigned. This position requires from time to time, the need for driving a vehicle, van or car, or a scooter therefore candidates with a valid Italian driver license will be preferred. The individuals we are looking for are: self-starting, independent and energetic; eager to be a part of growing, fun and thriving team; willing to work flexible hours fluent in Italian and English; extremely organized, extremely handy! rguercini@get-comfortable.com. HOSTESS FOR TEA ROOMS AND RESTAURANT. We are looking for a hostess who needs to speak fluent English and Italian, for fall time, day job in the center of Rome. Working hours from 12.00 to 18.40 6 days a week. rory.b@ babingtons.net. MOTHER TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHER. BRITISH INSTITUTES di Valmontone seeks mother tongue English teachers. TEFL/Celta YL or equivalent qualification. Experience teaching children and adult classes a plus. Send CV to valmontone@britishinstitutes.it. MOTHER TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHERS. The British Institute in Roma is looking for native/mother-tongue English teachers preferably with experience with Young Learners (ages 6-13) and Teens (14-18). Teachers are expected to be comfortable with adult courses as well, such as General and Business English. The more versatile your teaching style and availability, the more desirable you will be for this position. Please send CV to dos.salario@ britishinstitutes.org. Negotiable hours based on availability, and competi-

tive rates, based on qualifications and experience. MOTHER-TONGUE EARLY YEARS TEACHER. Mother-tongue Early Years teacher required in international school. Qualifications and experience are necessary. info@casaghianda.it. MOTHER-TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHERS. Established English School currently seeking full and part-time qualified English mother-tongue teachers for young children and adult courses from Sept 2016. Full training provided. Please send your CV to job@ angloamerican.it. PENINSULA SWIMWEAR SMALL COMPANY FAST GROWING. Requirements a. Good level of Italian (written and oral communication) b. Microsoft Office proficiency (Word, PPT, XLS)

c. Attention to details, work ethics and enthusiasm. d. Will to grow in a young and quickly expanding fashion company. e. 2 hours of work per day in the first months, with possibility to work from home. f. €300 per month salary for the first month and growing in the followings based on work hours and performance. Contact e.pasolini@ peninsulaswimwear.com.

part-time English teacher (bilingual or mother tongue) for our nursery and kindergarten on Via della Cava Aurelia. Position starting from September 2016 to July 2017. Send CV to the following e-mail address: livia.viadelcasaletto60@yahoo.it.

SALES OFFICE PERSON REQUIRED. Person required to work in busy sales office in San Cesareo selling printing accessories. Good telephone manner required, withwillingness to spend time finding and selling to new customers by telephone. Must be fluent in Italian and competent in English. otti@ tecnolinesas.com.

THE BRITISH SCHOOL URGENTLY REQUIRES TEACHERS. British School Fleming urgently requires experienced and qualified EFL teachers for children and adults (on site and externally). Good rate of pay and in-house training provided but you must be a native speaker and already be based in Rome. Please send your c.v. and covering letter to fleming@britishschoolroma.it and we’ll get back to you if we’d like to meet you.

SEEKING A PART-TIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Our company is seeking a

THE YELLOW BAR SEEKS STAFF WITH MINIMAL EXPERIENCE. *In order to

October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

apply you must complete all fields required online - jobs.the-yellow. com*One of the busiest bar in Rome is currently seeking bar staff and servers for both day time and night time positions. Someone who enjoys a fast paced atmosphere and interacting with a young crowd would be better suited to this role. We look for: Excellence in customer service, fluent in English and basic Italian Friendly and love to help people Able to multi-task and knowledgeable in computer skills Ages 20- 30 Cultural tolerance and open-mindedness High level of independence and flexible hours Motivation to work with tourists Knowledge in health/safety, food safety and alcohol consumption regulations.*In order to apply you must complete all fields required online - jobs.the-yellow.com*. TOUR PROMOTERS. Tour agency seeks self-motivated and energetic promoters to sell tours outside the Colosseum. A commission on sales job with potential for great earnings. Part time or full time with great flexibility. Native English speaking preferred. Please call +39 324 / 7492725. palbrix@hotmail.com.

Lessons FRENCH LESSONS. Native French speaker, 20 years’ teaching/translating experience (Univ. of Bath, Bristol, Paris) offers conversation, writing and exam preparation lessons for all levels and ages. Your house or mine (Piazza Barberini). Tel. 345 / 4425709 cedricsucci@ hotmail.com. MADRELINGUA INGLESE. Qualified and experienced English Teacher available for lessons for adults and students over 12 years for all levels, your house or mine, and private companies. Agente per corsi d’inglese all’estero. Central Rome e Piazza Bologna. For further information contact: ams.11@ hotmail.it.

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

SKYPE ENGLISH LESSONS. Highly qualified and experienced teacher of English living in UK offers lessons via Skype. All Cambridge exams plus IELTS and IELTS for UKVI. ellough23@ gmail.com. WEEKEND VINYASA FLOW YOGA RETREAT IN TUSCANY (28-30 OCT). This October come and feel grounded while deepening your yoga practice in the beautiful Maremma region, in the heart of southern Tuscany. We will enjoy vigorous vinyasa flow yoga sessions (90 minutes) both morning (with modifications throughout for different levels). In the afternoons we will balance the morning flow with a more restorative yoga practice (60 minutes). Evening sessions will include pranayama, some yoga philosophy, guided meditation and yoga nidra (yogic sleep) a guided relaxation practice to bring about complete physical, mental and emotional ease. (Stella Gallo is a Yoga Alliance recognised Vinyasa Flow yoga teacher, also trained in pre and post-natal yoga. Fully bi-lingual in English and Italian, this workshop will be hosted in English) info@stellayoga.org.

poetry IMMIGRANTS WHERE? Europe government blamed each other. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. THE QUESTION OF IMMIGRANT. Pass the buck... sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Property for sale in town FANTASTIC PANORAMA IN OSTIA LIDO. Completely renovated, quiet and next to the station LIDO CENTRO (direct trai to Rome-Pyramid ), 5th floor with a big terrace (attico) full of plants and flowers+electric sun shade. Strong PVC windows with mosquito-nets and electrical shutters. Air conditioning and reinforced main door. One living and dining room with open-side kitchen full of light, 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, 1 storage closet with shelves. No agencies, only private buyers: excepetional price and furniture available for sale. donatella.feliciani@ gmail.com. Rooms and flat shares CENTRE ROME METRO CAVOUR. Room private bathroom wifi quiet furnished nice area €780 monthly 392 / 5958234 cometisentioggi@ hotmail.com. S. MARIA MAGGIORE. Single room, between S. M. Maggiore and S. Giovanni, metro A/B, share bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Wi-Fi. Tel. 338 / 7911289.

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 October 2016 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | October 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

CONTEMPORARY ART MEETS AMOUR CURATED BY DANILO ECCHER

Francesco Vezzoli Self Portrait as Apollo del Belvedere's (Lover)

Yayoi Kusama All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins

Robert Indiana Amor

29 SEPTEMBER 2016 / 19 FEBRUARY 2017 DART Chiostro del Bramante / Via della Pace, Roma / www.chiostrodelbramante.it EXHIBITION PRODUCED AND ORGANIZED BY

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11 Festa del cinema di roma a

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