Wanted in Rome - November 2016

november 2016 â‚Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 11

contents

titolo

no. 11 / november 2016 editorials

TOUGH TIMES FOR RAGGI IN ROME Laura Clarke. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 HUGH O’NEILL: GAELIC PRINCE AND TUDOR LORD Mícheál MacCraith. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 THE NECTAR OF SABINA Philip Biss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-32 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

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classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 wanted in rome junior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

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Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 7 December and 11 January 2017. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 27 November (for 7 December) and 1 January (for 11 January).

However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

KIKI SMITH Cathedral, 2012 Jacquard Tapestry 297 x 190.5 cm Courtesy Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.

See page 24 for exhibition details.

Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425.

Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 31/10/2016

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Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878.

Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102.

Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49.

You can find us on

34 November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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POLITICS

Laura Clarke

TOUGH TIMES FOR RAGGI IN ROME The M5S mayor has sunk Rome’s 2024 Olympic bid and is making heavy weather of managing the city

I

t was enough to look at the CV of Virginia Raggi, the candidate put forward by the anti-establishment Movimento Cinque Stelle (M5S) for mayor of Rome in the June elections to realise that she was unqualified to do the job.

With the exception of a couple of years as an opposition councillor during the previous administration led by ousted Partito Democratico (PD) mayor Ignazio Marino, the 37-year-old intellectual property lawyer had no political or administrative experience to speak of.

Chosen as the M5S candidate for mayor in an online poll among local members she won the nomination with just 1,764 preferences, or 45.5 per cent of those who voted. She then took 35.2 per cent of the ballot in the first round of elections before beating the less charismatic but unquestionably more competent Roberto Giachetti of the PD in the run-off to become the city’s first woman mayor with over 67 per cent of the vote.

“I’m ready to govern, this is the start of a new era,” Raggi said following her election. Her victory – along with that of M5S candidate Chiara Appendino in Turin – was widely seen as part of

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Rome mayor Virginia Raggi has faced one headache after another since taking office in June.

a process of ‘coming of age’ for the grassroots protest movement as it tries to present itself as a nationwide alternative to the PD of prime minister Matteo Renzi.

“Now we are ready to govern… (the electorate) has recognised our capacity to govern the country,” said party bigwig Luigi Di Maio, who has made no secret of wanting to be the M5S candidate for prime minister in the

next general elections, probably in 2018.

Consequently, Raggi was always going to come under intense media scrutiny and couldn’t allow herself to put a foot wrong. However, four months into her administration it seems she hasn’t put a foot right.

The Raggi executive has been bugged by resignations amid judicial investigations and apparent cover-ups.

Rome’s environment councillor Paola Muraro has been the subject of two criminal investigations but retains the confidence of Raggi.

Soon after the Raggi city government was sworn into office it was revealed that the environment councillor Paola Muraro was under two separate probes for alleged unauthorised waste management during her 12 years as a consultant for city refuse disposal utility AMA. She was also suspected of abuse of office along with a defendant in the Mafia Capitale trial into alleged fixing of lucrative city contracts in favour of a local crime syndicate, but she retains the confidence of the mayor and is still in office.

There have also been difficulties to find candidates to fill the position of budget councillor. One candidate resigned, another was withdrawn and the third withdrew, “because of the climate inside the party that is meant to support the Rome executive.”

And it seems that the national M5S leadership eventually imposed its choice of Andrea Mazzillo – 42-yearold accountant and party activist – as the mayor’s budget councillor and Massimo Colomban from the Veneto – founder of architectural cladding manufacturer Permasteelisa – as head of Rome’s city-controlled companies.

“We’re facing important challenges and Mazzillo can make a valuable contribution given his experience in local finance,” Raggi said. “I’m… also naming him to show that the (5-Star) Movement fields its most qualified militants,” she added.

On presenting her new cabinet members to the assembled city council in mid-October Raggi also admitted that her administration had been troubled and seemed to imply that this was partly due to inexperience.

“It would be hypocritical to deny the difficulties,” the mayor said. “Except for a few, none of us... had ever done this job before, but we’re facing it all with great determination,” she added.

Meanwhile, rubbish has continued to pile up in the city and in September Raggi was forced to admit that there are no easy solutions. Likewise, violent end-of-summer rain storms caused flash flooding and brought the city to its knees, while breakdowns on the public transport system seem to be the order of the day.

To top it all, in mid-September 70 city managers wrote a letter to Raggi denouncing her lack of leadership and

demanding the reorganisation of the administrative machinery, which had been one of Raggi’s core promises during her election campaign.

In a highly controversial move on 21 September the mayor then sunk the city’s bid to host the 2024 Olympic Games, despite support from the central government, Lazio regional government and the local business community.

Raggi justified her decision on grounds of costs, saying the funds would be better used for city services.

However, the speed with which M5S leader, ex-comedian Beppe Grillo, praised her decision raised questions about the extent to which her hands are tied.

It is no secret that the so-called caso Roma (Rome case) has created rifts within the highest echelons of the M5S, and even at local level party councillors are divided in their view of Raggi’s performance, particularly as regards her decision to stand by Muraro until the last moment.

It may be partly to limit damage in Rome that the movement is now trying to deflect attention onto the No November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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POLITICS campaign in the constitutional referendum on 4 December, when Italians will be asked to approve or reject a controversial constitutional reform to Italy’s bi-cameral parliament to replace the senate with a smaller chamber of indirectly elected local representatives with limited law-making powers (see Side Notes). In early October M5S filed an appeal against the wording of the referendum on grounds that it is biased towards the government-mandated reform, while Di Maio has said a general election should be called “as soon as possible” if the No vote wins.

Premier Renzi initially staked his political future on winning the referendum on constitutional reform but has since backtracked, saying it was a mistake to personalise the vote and now insists that the campaign must be fought on the merits of the reform.

“I’m sure the Italians would ask the premier to keep his promise, even though he has changed his mind,” the 30-year-old son of an ex director of the now defunct neo-fascist Movimento Sociale Italiano (MSI) has said.

Luigi Di Maio is a rising star in the Movimento 5 Stelle.

SIDE NOTES Constitutional referendum On 4 December Italians will be called to answer ‘yes’ or ‘no’ to a question that reads: “Do you approve a constitutional law that concerns the scrapping of the bicameral system (of parliament), reducing the number of MPs, containing the operating costs of public institutions, abolishing the National Council on Economy and Labour (CNEL), and amending Title V of the Constitution, Part II?” to complete the elimination of Italy’s 110 provinces.

The reform was approved definitively by parliament in April and will come into effect from the next parliament if the Yes vote carries the day. No quorum is required for this referendum unlike those to abolish part or all of existing laws. Abrogative referendums (referendums to repeal laws that are already in force) do require a quorum, consultative referendums on constitutional changes – such as the 4 December referendum – do not.

The No campaign is being led by M5S and other opposition parties but it also has support from a left-wing faction within Renzi’s own PD and many renowned constitutional experts. Opponents of the reform are afraid the constitutional changes, combined with the new Italicum electoral law (also spearheaded by the government), will tip the balance of power away from parliament towards a stronger executive and prime minister. The Italicum provides for a two-round system of voting for the chamber of deputies with a large majority bonus for the winning party (rather than coalition). In September Italy’s constitutional court decided to postpone its evaluation of the legitimacy of the new Italicum election law until after the referendum.

The constitutionality of Italicum has been challenged by several courts across the country.

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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HISTORY

Mícheál MacCraith

HUGH O’NEILL: GAELIC PRINCE AND TUDOR LORD

Hugh O’Neill was buried in Rome’s S. Pietro in Montorio four centuries ago this year

M

ore and more Irish visitors to Rome are including the Spanish Franciscan church S. Pietro in Montorio as an essential part of their itinerary. It is not the panoramic vista of Rome from the Gianiculum that attracts them. Neither is it the splendour of Bramante’s Tempietto, aptly called the jewel of the Renaissance. Only the art connoisseurs among them will be familiar with the paintings of Sebastanio del Piombo. Scarcely any of them will have heard the tragic story of Beatrice Cenci, the Italian noblewoman buried in an unknown and unmarked grave in church precincts.

What attracts them primarily are the tombs of the Ulster earls situated below the left-hand side of the high altar. These include Rory O’Donnell, Earl of Tyrconnell, who died in Rome on 29 July 1608; his brother Cathbharr, who died on 24 September of the same year; and Hugh O’Neill’s son, also called Hugh, baron of Dungannon, who died on 23 September 1609. While these monuments contain elaborate descriptions, it is the final gravestone that attracts most attention, even though it carries but one simple

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sentence in Latin: “the bones of prince Hugh O’Neill”. Though the funerary slab bears no date, we know from other sources that O’Neill died in the hospital of S. Spirito in Sassia on 20 July 1616, 400 years ago this year.

Who were these Irish earls and how did they end up buried in the prestigious church of the Spanish crown in Rome?

Unravelling the Hugh O’Neill depicted in an engraving by William Holl. yarn of this tanIn the second half of the 16th cengled skein yields a tale of adventure, intrigue, bravery, ambition, high hopes tury, the Tudor monarchy – now under and utter disillusionment: a tale that the Protestant Queen Elizabeth I – deals with the great what-might-have- adopted a more aggressive approach in extending crown authority throughbeen of Irish history.

HISTORY out the island of Ireland. Gaelic Ulster, however, where the O’Neills of Tyrone were the leading dynasty, proved particularly recalcitrant. As the O’Neills were often divided among each other, it suited Dublin Castle to foment these fissures in the hope of breaking their resistance.

Sir Henry Sidney, the lord deputy, the English monarch’s senior representative in Ireland, backed Hugh O’Neill’s claim to become Earl of Tyrone, hoping thus to create a loyal ally in the subjugation and Anglicisation of Ulster.

Granted the earldom in 1587, Hugh had to wait until 1595 to be inaugurated in the Gaelic style as the O’Neill, a title prohibited by the crown. In the meantime O’Neill quietly built up his power base and trained his own army, sometimes working hand in hand with the crown, sometimes against it. His double game is best exemplified by the fact that he both slaughtered the crew of La Trinidad Valencera at the time of the Spanish Armada and gave succour to other survivors who were shipwrecked off the north-western coast of Ireland.

Dublin Castle eventually ran out of patience with O’Neill and he was proclaimed traitor in 1595. Spanish agents arrived in the northwest county of Donegal in 1596 where O’Neill and O’Donnell had requested a Spanish army to aid their struggle. O’Neill’s defeat of an English force of 4,000 men at the Yellow Ford in 1598 attracted international attention.

Despite his spectacular successes, O’Neill failed to win over the Old English Catholics of the larger towns in the east and south of Ireland, as they preferred to remain loyal to Elizabeth while holding out for freedom of religion.

Spanish aid, when it eventually arrived, was too late, too small, and in the wrong place, the southern port of Kinsale, far from O’Neill’s power base.

The Irish insurgents marched south

Flight of the Earls memorial sculpture by John Behan in Donegal, north-west Ireland.

but were completed routed on January 3 1601. To this day Kinsale is considered one of the pivotal points in Irish history.

Holding out for two further years, O’Neill eventually submitted to Lord Deputy Mountjoy in March 1603. Restored to his earldom, and repudiating his Gaelic title, O’Neill received extremely generous terms from the war-weary crown authorities. Some, however, continued to harass him, rendering his situation almost unbearable.

On 14 September 1607 O’Neill, accom-

panied by the Earl of Tyrconnell and 99 followers, set sail for the continent, an event that has gone down in history as the Flight of the Earls, though some recent commentators prefer to consider it a strategic retreat.

Hoping to make the case for further Spanish military aid to King Philip III of Spain in person, O’Neill’s hopes were dashed when a storm blew his ship on to the French coast. Philip was embarrassed by the Irish prince’s presence on the continent but relieved that he had not landed in Spain. Spain and Eng-

Hugh O’Neill’s simple gravestone in the church of S. Pietro in Montorio.

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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HISTORY land had made peace with the Treaty of London in 1604, each party agreeing that neither should aid the enemies of the other.

However Henry IV of France welcomed the fugitives, firmly refusing requests from London to have them arrested, but deftly guiding them to the Spanish Netherlands rather than to Spain. Warmly received by the Archdukes Albert and Isabella, the Irish party wintered in the Leuven area where the newly-founded Irish Franciscan college was situated. Continuous pressure from London on Albert and Isabella however, brought an end to the initial welcome. Hapsburg policy dictated that England should not be offended so the exiles were moved on to Rome, passing through Porta del Popolo on 29 April 1608.

O’Neill was initially treated quite splendidly by Pope Paul V, who invited him as guest of honour to the canonisation of S. Francesca Romana one month after his arrival, a signal mark of distinction that upset Sir Henry Wotton, the English ambassador to Venice.

It soon began to dawn on O’Neill, however, that these tokens of esteem were all empty gestures. As the pope’s priority was to gain freedom of religion for English Catholics, he had no intention of upsetting James I. There was no way he was going to grant the Irish prince money or arms.

Spain was equally adamant. There was no way Philip III would allow O’Neill to travel either to Spain or to Flanders. Keeping the exiled prince in Rome was a useful trump card to have in reserve should war break out again between England and Spain, but until that should happen, Philip would do nothing to offend the court of St James. To make matters worse, the Irish found it difficult to cope with the insalubrious Roman climate, and both the Earl of Tyrconnell and O’Neill’s son Hugh were fatally stricken, dying in 1608 and 1609 respectively.

O’Neill’s growing frustration is palpable as we read the correspondence between Rome and Madrid during his period of exile. He mordantly described his situation after his surrender to the English crown as “destruction by peace”.

It could equally well apply to his situation in Rome. As late as 1615 he declared that rather than live in Rome, he would prefer to return to his land with 100 soldiers and die there in defence of the Catholic faith and fatherland.

Writing to Andrés Velázquez, councillor of state to the Spanish king, in July, O’Neill reiterated his plea: “We only wish … to go forward to an honourable death rather than end our lives in miserable exile, and to leave the kingdom of Ireland united to Spain’s monarchy and free from the yoke of English tyranny, thereby ensuring for our countrymen not only nobility and liberty in this world, but also the eternal glory of their souls.”

But even though O’Neill was now in his 66th year, Madrid remained adamant. The scribe who recorded O’Neill’s death in Rome in 1616 for the Annals of the Four Masters (163236) wrote as follows: “The prince who died there – in Rome – far away from Armagh, was a powerful lord, mild and gentle with his friends, pious and charitable, but stern and fierce to his enemies; and it was a token that God was pleased with his life, that he allowed him to breathe his last in Rome, the metropolis of Christendom.” The great O’Neill would surely have demurred with the annalist considering his demise in Rome to have been a token of God’s pleasure, but the presence of the exiles’ graves in the church of S. Pietro in Montorio provides an opportunity for Irish visitors to reflect, to pray and to contemplate the imponderables of their history.

Bramante’s Tempietto forms part of the church of S. Pietro in Montorio where O’Neill is buried.

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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FOOD

Philip Biss

THE NECTAR OF SABINA Englishman Johnny Madge produces olive oil in the Sabina area of north Lazio

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talians are justly proud of their healthy diet and of that most important ingredient, olive oil.

Where would the much-acclaimed Mediterranean diet be without it? The peninsula abounds olive trees and, with some 630 varieties catalogued, far more types of olive than any other country in the world. Indeed, the enormous olive tree said to be more than 2,000 years old at Canneto in the Sabina countryside just north of Rome bears witness to the ancient production of olive oil in Italy.

Although in his Ode to Thaliarchus Horace urges his host and friend to bring out his Sabina wine, the region was actually more famous for its olive oil, as also mentioned by the Roman poet Virgil in his epic work The Aeneid.

Sabina was noted as producing the best oil for the emperor’s table, the source of a real imperial nectar. Praise for this oil also comes from Gallen, who lived in the second century AD and is considered to be the father of modern medicine. He is credited with inventing the first body lotion which included extra virgin olive oil, claiming Sabina olive oil to be the best in the world.

To discover more about the myster-

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Johnny Madge was lured to Sabina by its exceptional olive oil.

ies and benefits of this liquid “nectar”, and where and how it is produced, Wanted in Rome talked to Johnny Madge, an international olive oil judge living in Sabina.

WiR. So Johnny, perhaps you could tell us how an Englishman came to be an international judge of olive oil?

What stimulated your interest in olive oil? Was it the fact of living in Sabina surrounded by olive trees?

JM. I came to Italy in 1982 and almost immediately I had some oil which had just been made and I was “blown over” by it. I decided that I was eventually going to find a property where I could grow olives and make olive oil.

In 1985 I came to Sabina and found a house in the middle of an olive grove, and I said to my wife: ‘This looks good, but let’s buy a litre of local olive oil first to see if it’s good.’ It was. So it was olive oil that brought me to live in Sabina.

FOOD Over the next few years I tried to do some research and taste as many oils as possible, but it wasn’t until the early 2000s that I contacted Slow Food and asked them if I could give them a hand in making their oil and wine guides. In the beginning I just helped them as an assistant at their tasting sessions, but in the end I became a taster on the panel.

I was the only non-Italian working for them in that period and I worked for them for about seven years on and off.

Being an Englishman who knows about olive oil is a bit unique, and it was not difficult for me to be ‘found’ as it were by people from other countries interested in olive oil and invited to events in New York and London, etc. But in the end I met an American oil expert who invited me to go to Japan every year as a judge in a competition there. This year I’ll be going to Turkey and London and Switzerland as well.

WiR. Is extra virgin olive oil still used in body lotions today and, if so, does Gallen’s claim for Sabina oil remain true?

JM. I know that very good quality olive oils are being used today in cosmetics and also for health reasons because strong bitter olive oils are antiinflammatory. Since there are strong bitter oils in Sabina they also have this anti-inflammatory effect. I discovered recently that there are very ancient olive trees growing in a quarry in Sicily which supplied the stone for the Selinunte temples, which date back to the Magna Grecia. These trees, introduced by the Greeks, are completely wild and produce tiny olives unsuitable for eating, so they were almost certainly used to make oil for cosmetic lotions which Greek athletes would have used on their bodies.

WiR. Today every olive-growing area in Italy tends to claim its oil is best. Is Sabina oil still considered the best in

Sabina’s high-quality olive oil is known around the world.

Italy or have other regions or factors changed the situation? And what does the DOP (denominazione di origine protetto) signify in Italy?

JM. The Sabina DOP was the first in Italy. It means that the olives used can only come from that area. There is also a set of rules called a disciplina meaning the olives have to be picked and milled within 48 hours and the level of free fatty acids in Sabina DOP oil must be under 0.6 per cent, whereas for an other extra virgin olive oil it would be 0.8 per cent. There are still some great producers in Sabina, one who sells her oil in Japan and New York, etc. Sabina

still has a very good name, but now very high quality technologies are being used to make olive oil, so other areas of Italy are beginning to catch up and maybe sometimes overtake Sabina.

WIR. Johnny, can you tell the readers about the characteristics of a good olive oil?

JM. When I talk about olive oil there is a word I use over and over again, but it is the most important aspect. What you have to smell and taste in olive oil is freshness. If it doesn’t have that it is not extra virgin olive oil. You need to November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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Old and new methods of pressing olives.

pick up a piece of bread with oil on it and immediately get the sensation of freshly cut grass. In the mouth it again has to have this sensation of freshness and there has to be some pepperiness or it cannot be called extra virgin. In Sabina and a lot of other areas this is part of the quality set for olive oil.

limits and it is the best oil for cooking.

As far as dressing goes, the really great quality oils are the ones we use to finish preparing food. Each oil has a different characteristic, like wine, and can be paired in totally different and surprising ways. I have a website with my US partner where we advise people to use this oil with this food and so on, but all this is new stuff that is just starting.

WiR. What is the process used by a frantoio to extract the oil and are modern developments displacing the old traditional methods?

JM. You bring in olives, wash them and crush them in some way. In modern mills we use a steel crusher a bit like a food processor whereas in old mills granite wheels are used. You end up with a paste which has to be stirred to encourage the globules of oil to stick together and is then heated to not more than 27 degrees centigrade.

If you go above that temperature it is legally no longer “cold extracted� oil.

We then need to separate out the oil, either by pressing the paste on mats as in an old wine press, or by using a modern centrifuge. It is clear that modern methods produce a cleaner, fresher, better oil, while by using the old techniques the oil is more exposed to air and it is difficult to keep the press clean, so the oil comes out dirtier, fermented and of poor quality.

WiR. Given the choice of olive oils from all over the world, where might a modern day Roman emperor choose to buy his oil and why?

The olive oil tree at Canneto Sabino is believed to be more than 2,000 years old.

WiR. How should we select and use olive oil in cooking and dressing various foods?

JM. The only thing I can say is that some producers are honest enough to indicate when the oil was made and that is sometimes an indication of a good oil... But you really do need to taste it. There is a ridiculous idea going around that you cannot use extra virgin olive oil for cooking. In fact you can heat it up in a frying pan to 207° before it starts smoking, whereas we are advised by experts that we should fry at between 176 and 182 degrees, so it is clear that we are within those

JM. I love this question. A Roman emperor probably has loads of money and can afford to buy oil from Australia and Chile and Spain as well as Italy and other countries. When I go to international competitions one of the really fun things that I discover is that there are amazing oils from those countries, and even from Japan. If you want a huge selection of incredible oils from all over the world, then why not? The thing people must not forget is that the country with the greatest variety in the world is Italy.

Johnny Madge conducts guided visits to olive oil producers in Sabina. For more details see his website, www. johnnymadge.com.

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rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel.

0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paint­ings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30.

Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel.

066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing).

Guided tours in English and Italian.

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Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.

0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en.

National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it.

08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel.

064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and an­tiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed.

VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org.

Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00.

Mon closed.

Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel.

0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel.

060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it.

Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only.

Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel.

0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel.

0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape.

Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel.

06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel.

06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper.

Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel.

066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

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MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel.

0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel.

348/2833034.

Monitor

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com.

Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-

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Wanted in Rome | November 2016

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel.

0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel.

0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel.

0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

exhibitions L’Ara Com’Era at the Ara Pacis museum.

Azulejão exhibition by Adriana Varejão at the Gagosian. Azulejão - mao de anjo e curva.

Pat Perry at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Street Hole.

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PAT PERRY: THE HOUSE YOU CAME FROM 12 Nov-3 Dec The Dorothy Circus Gallery hosts an exhibition of drawings by the Detroitbased artist Pat Perry. Imaginative and mysterious, Perry’s illustrations are characterised by “street style, native mid-western sensibilities and social justice”, according to the gallery’s press release. The Dorothy Circus Gallery specialises in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

KEVIN MURRAY: THE NUDE, COLOUR AND FORM 29 Oct-12 Nov Rome-based Australian artist Kevin Murray presents his latest series of works at Studio Minerva. The exhibition is dedicated primarily to the nude, focusing on both colour and form, but also includes a number of still lifes. The

nude paintings are based on life drawings made at Rome’s Fine Arts Academy. Murray was born in Sydney but has lived in Rome since 1960. For information contact dellascala4@gmail.com, tel. 339 / 1960899. Studio Minerva, Via Pietro Micca 6.

ARTE E POLITICA: OPERE DALLA COLLEZIONE #4 21 Oct-10 May MACRO shows a series of works with political and social themes. The display spans from the 1930s, with the celebrated demolition paintings by Roman artist Mario Mafai, to more recent works examining contemporary socio-political events. Part of a cycle of exhibitions from the permanent collection of MACRO. Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.org.

I COLLAGE DI CARLO MARIA MARIANI 16 Oct-2 Dec Sala 1 pays tribute to Italian conceptual artist Carlo Maria Mariani, with an exhibition of recent collages. The exhibition is part of the “Fuori Quadriennale” series of external events attached to the 16th edition of the Quadriennale d’Arte di Roma (see page 23), at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Based in New York, Mariani is known predominantly for his figurative paintings whose themes comprise art history, allegories and dreams. Sala 1, Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

L’ARA COM’ERA 14 Oct-31 Oct 2017 The rich history and legends of Imperial Rome will be displayed in an im-

mersive exhibition at the capital’s Ara Pacis, using 3D technology to revive the original colours of the museum’s altar to peace. Titled L’Ara Com’Era (The Ara as it was), the installation involves “augmented reality” scenes illuminating the first-century AD altar which was commissioned by Emperor Augustus to celebrate the peace he established throughout the Roman empire. The multimedia exhibition runs every Friday and Saturday night until 17 Dec, from 20.00 until midnight, with last entry at 23.00. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

SBAGLIATO: VERTIGINE 14 Oct-13 Nov Galleria Varsi presents the installation Vertigine by the Roman collective of architects and designers SBAGLIATO. The group’s visionary installations are the result of a synergy between architecture, graphics, photography and collage. Galleria Varsi, Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 06 68309410, www. galleriavarsi.it.

RISING FROM DESTRUCTION: EBLA, NIMRUD, PALMYRA 7 Oct-11 Dec Life-size replicas of three vandalised ancient works from Syria and Iraq are displayed at the Colosseum in an exhibition designed to highlight the safeguarding of cultural heritage. Sponsored by UNESCO, the exhibition pays tribute to three important treasures of Near East civilisation, each of which has been destroyed or damaged by war or iconoclastic vandalism. Using enormous 3D printers and replicated stone, the project’s organisers have recreated Iraq’s human-headed winged bull of Nimrud, alongside the ruins of the 2,000-year-old Temple of Bel in Palmyra – both destroyed last year by ISIS; and Syria’s royal archive room of the Palace of Ebla State, which housed 17,000 cuneiform tablets, and has suffered extensive damage during the Syrian conflict. The project was overseen by archaeologists and art historians, and curated by former Rome mayor and former Italian culture minister Francesco Rutelli. Piazza del Colosseo.

EDWARD HOPPER 1 Oct-12 Feb The Vittoriano presents an exhibition dedicated to the celebrated American artist Edward Hopper (1882-1967) whose paintings provided anecdotal insights into the day-to-day banality of American culture. The show spans Hopper’s entire career, from early Parisian watercolours to later urban scenes of New York, focusing on his techniques

Edward Hopper at the Vittoriano. Second Story Sunlight.

MAXXII PREMIO MAXXI 30 Sept-29 Jan The 15th edition of the Premio MAXXI, an award created to nurture the development of young Italian art, features installations by four finalists: Riccardo Arena, Ludovica Carbotta, Adelita Husni-Bey and the ZAPRUDER filmmakergroup.

I CAPOLAVORI MAI VISTI DEL MUSEO D’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA DI TEHRAN 22 Oct-20 Nov MAXXI offers a preview of its major spring exhibition by showing two important works: No. 2 (Yellow Center) by Mark Rothko and Scratches on the Earth by Mohsen Vaziri Moghaddam. The 2017 exhibition will feature 30 modern masterpieces, by artists such as Picasso, Kandinsky and Pollock, which have been kept out of sight for almost 40 years in underground storage facilities at the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art (TMoCA).

MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

No. 2 (Yellow Center) by Mark Rothko.

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LOVE. L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA INCONTRA L’AMORE

Metalepsy by Gilbert & George.

29 Sept-19 Feb Rome’s Chiostro di Bramante celebrates its 20th anniversary with an exhibition dedicated to contemporary art and the multiple interpretations of the universally popular theme of love. The colourful show includes works by artists of the calibre of Yayoi Kusama, Tom Wesselmann, Andy Warhol, Robert Indiana, Gilbert & George, Francesco Vezzoli, and Tracey Emin. Organisers describe the exhibition as a “360° sensory experience”, granting visitors access throughout the museum with permission to photograph all the exhibited works, before sharing their images via the official hashtag #chiostrolove. Appropriately, the exhibition begins with two Pop Art Love sculptures by American artist Robert Indiana who forged a hugely successful career from the four letters, arranged in a square with a tilted “O”. Tom Wesselmann‘s coloured vinyl Smoker epitomises his erotically-charged Pop Art; Francesco Vezzoli generates a smile with his playful marble Self Portrait as Apollo del Belvedere’s (Lover); Andy Warhol provides a Multicoloured Marilyn; Tracey Emin’s neon signs, including My Forgotten Heart, illuminate the corridor walls; and then there is the kaleidoscopic Union Jack-themed Metalepsy by British duo Gilbert & George. However the highlight of the show is All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins – among the most Instagrammed images in the world – by Yayoi Kusama, one of Japan’s most important living artists. The reclusive 87-year-old describes herself as an “obsessive artist” whose work incorporates elements of conceptual art, Pop Art and abstract expressionism, to name but a few. Her installation at Chiostro del Bramante offers visitors a Narnia-style trip to a psychedelic land of infinite mirrors, reflecting a miniature field of bright yellow and black pumpkins.

Due to the confined space, single visits inside the room are limited to a maximum of 30 seconds, before returning (sadly) to the real world. Towards the end, visitors are provided with coloured markers and encouraged to leave their own declaration of love on specially-designated walls, a fitting finale to this vibrant, feel-good exhibition.

Andy Devane Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. and draftsmanship. The 60 works on display include South Carolina Morning (1955), Second Story Sunlight (1960), New York Interior (1921), Le Bistro (1909), and Summer Interior (1909). Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma.

ADRIANA VAREJÃO: AZULEJÃO 1 Oct-10 Dec The Gagosian shows new work by acclaimed Brazilian artist Adriana Varejão who is best known for her azulejão or “big tile” paintings. Created on canvas using thick plaster and oil paint, Varejão’s works simulate the azulejão, a tra-

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Wanted in Rome | November 2016

ditional Portuguese glazed terracotta tile, and are characterised by cracks that appear during the drying process.

The exhibition includes Varejão’s largest single tile paintings to date, featuring motifs such as a cherub’s head, an architectural fragment, a rose, and a shell, all painted in subtle shades of blue and white. Gagosian, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www. gagosian.com.

TESORI GOTICI DALLA SLOVACCHIA 30 Sept-13 Nov The Palazzo del Quirinale houses an

exhibition of 15th- and 16th-century treasures from Slovakia, to mark Slovakia’s current Presidency of the Council of the European Union. The 36 masterpieces on display reflect Slovakia’s cultural and spiritual contribution to late mediaeval art in Europe. Palazzo del Quirinale, Piazza del Quirinale.

GUSTAVO ACEVES: LAPIDARIUM 15 Sept-8 Jan 40 monumental sculptures by Mexican artist Gustav Aceves can be admired at outdoor archaeological sites in Rome including Trajan’s Markets, the Colos-

seum, the Roman Forum and the Arch of Constantine. The travelling public sculpture installation is dedicated to migration, and comprises fragmented or cracked statues of horses and human skulls, made from bronze, marble, wood, iron and granite. After Rome the exhibition will visit Istanbul, Paris, Venice and Mexico. Trajan’s Markets, Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

STILL SHOWING YI ZHOU: FRAGMENTS OF ROME, PAST, FUTURE, PARALLEL WORLDS 21 Oct-27 Nov Fresh from her success at the Venice Biennale, Chinese interdisciplinary artist Yi Zhou displays her multimedia project at MACRO. Her installation with 3D animation contains literary references to the history of Rome and its ruins. Zhou is based between Rome, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Los Angeles.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

PICASSO IMAGES 14 Oct-19 Feb An exhibition featuring almost 200 photographs accompanied by a significant selection of prints, sculptures and paintings from the Musée National Picasso-Paris, illustrates the professional and private life of Pablo Picasso. The exhibition is divided into various sections examining the artist’s relationship with photography, from his early artistic experiments and subsequent collaboration with avant-garde photographers,

to his use of the medium to cultivate his persona as both a legendary artist and celebrity. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

16a QUADRIENNALE D’ARTE: ALTRI TEMPI, ALTRI MITI 13 Oct-8 Jan The 16th edition of the Quadriennale d’Arte di Roma returns to its historic venue, Palazzo delle Esposizioni. The Quadriennale, a major show to promote prevailing trends in contemporary Italian art, was first held in Rome in 1931 and the most recent edition took place in 2008. The show’s 11 curators have chosen 150 works by 100 artists, focusing on the development of Italian visual art since 2000, under the title Altri tempi, altri miti (Other times, other myths). Supported by the Italian culture ministry, the Quadriennale includes paintings, sculpture, video installations and photography, and is shown in 10 gallery spaces at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

TIME IS OUT OF JOINT 11 Oct-15 April This exhibition Time is Out of Joint displays the completed refurbishment and reorganisation at the Galleria Nazionale, formerly known as the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna or GNAM. The reordering of the gallery spaces began in June under the new director Cristiana Collu, who took up her post last year. Taking its title from

Picasso Images at the Ara Pacis. Robert Capa (1913-1954) Françoise Gilot seguita da Pablo Picasso sulla spiaggia di Golfe-Juan, agosto 1948. © Robert Capa © International Center of Photography/Magnum Photos. © Succession Picasso by SIAE 2016.

Lapidarium by Gustavo Aceves at Trajan’s Markets.

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Shakespeare’s Hamlet, the exhibition explores the fluidity of the concept of time, displaying works of art from various centuries side by side, without regard to chronological order. It includes works by Giacomo Balla, Gustav Klimt, Lucio Fontana, Alberto Giacometti, Cristina Lucas, Adrian Paci, and Sophie Ristelhueber. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

RODOLFO VILLAPLANA: 8½ 30 Sept-12 Nov The MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea gallery presents an exhibition by Venezuelan artist Rodolfo Villaplana.

Inspired by Federico Fellini’s film 8½

the exhibition features eight recentlypainted works which focus primarily on the female characters from the movie.

Portraits include the bourgeois Luisa, the sensual Carla, the serene Claudia, the prostitute Saraghina. The exhibition is part of the “Fuori Quadriennale” series of external events attached to the 16th edition of the Quadriennale d’Arte di Roma (see page 23). Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

JEAN ARP 30 Sept-15 Jan The Baths of Diocletian host a retrospective dedicated to Jean Arp (18871966), the important avant-garde

MIMÌ QUILICI BUZZACCHI: TRA SEGNO E COLORE

German-French artist who was among the founders of the Dada movement a century ago, on the 50th anniversary of his death. The exhibition also features works by Arp’s wife Sophie TaeuberArp, highlighting an extraordinary 30-year artistic partnership. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 79, tel. 0639967700.

KIKI SMITH & BETTY WOODMAN 21 Sept-12 Nov Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents a double show with work by Kiki Smith and Betty Woodman. This is the first time that the celebrated American artists, and longtime-friends, have exhibited together. Best known for her depictions

Sole e pioggia, 1973, by Mimì Quilici Buzzacchi.

22 Sept-27 Nov This compelling little exhibition illustrates how an intelligent and committed woman pursued her art for seven decades through the changing cultural contexts of 20th-century Italy. Mimì (Emma) Buzzacchi (1903-90) was essentially selftaught as a printmaker and painter; in 1925, when she was barely 22, artist and poet Filippo de Pisis took notice and wrote about her work. In 1929 she married Nello Quilici, editor of the Ferrara newspaper Corriere Padano (owned by Italo Balbo, one of the key figures of the fascist regime, between 1929 and 1940 minister of the air force and then governor of Libya). Marriage and the birth of two sons did not prevent Mimì from engaging in an intense activity as artist, illustrator and art writer, forging contacts with painters Achille Funi, Carlo Socrate, Virgilio Guidi, and ‘aero-painter’ Tato. This period is illustrated in the exhibition through landscapes, still-lifes and portraits, a selection of her excellent woodcuts, as well as illustrations for magazine covers, documents, photographs, film clips. Nello Quilici’s death with Balbo in June 1940 and the subsequent war events forced Mimì to move to Rome with her children Folco (who would become a filmmaker) and Vieri (later an architect). In the very different artistic climate of the postwar years, Mimì developed new stylistic modes, also documented in the exhibition; after a brief expressionist phase, she concentrated on landscapes, mostly of the Tiber and the Po Valley, aiming for a flatter tectonic organisation of the painted surface, somehow reminiscent of Klee and Cézanne.

Jacopo Benci Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

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Spina are displayed alongside paintings and archive photographs. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel.

060608, www.museicapitolini.org.

ROMA POP CITY 60-67 13 July-27 Nov Paintings, sculptures, photographs and art films depicting Rome in the earlymid 1960s. The 100 works on display illustrate a lively artistic period for the capital, inspired in part by the American Pop Art movement of the late 1950s. The exhibition includes works

by Baruchello, Ceroli, Fioroni, Kounellis, Mambor, Schifano and Tacchi. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

16a Quadriennale d’Arte at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. The School of Narrative Dance: Little Chaos #1, 2013 by Marinella Senatore.

of the 20th century. The photographs are divided into three sections: public construction and private development; struggle for housing rights; living conditions. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1, tel. 065816563, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

Kiki Smith - Betty Woodman exhibition at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. Summer Tea Party by Betty Woodman.

of the human form, Smith’s preferred media are bronze and Nepal paper, and her work is concerned with issues such as birth, regeneration, race and gender.

Woodman, who for the past 40 years has been based between Tuscany and New York, combines lacquered ceramic and painted canvas to make colourful three-dimensional works. Woodman’s sculpture and works on paper, created especially for the occasion, are shown alongside new work by Smith including Jacquard tapestries (see cover of this magazine), sculpture and a room of collaged drawings. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

ABITARE A ROMA IN PERIFERIA 21 Sept-13 Nov This exhibition by Roman photographer Rodrigo Pais documents life in Roman suburbs during the second half

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MAYA ZACK: COUNTERLIGHT 19 Sept-19 Nov Israeli artist Maya Zack returns with her second exhibition at the Marie-Laure Fleisch Gallery where she presents her latest video, accompanied by a series of drawings and collages. Counterlight was first shown last spring at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, and is inspired by the poetry of Paul Celan, whose work provides insights into the horrors he experienced in Nazi concentration camps. Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch, Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www. galleriamlf.com/en.

PIACERE, ETTORE SCOLA 17 Sept-8 Jan Exhibition of memorabilia, correspondence, drawings and awards relating to the celebrated Italian screenwriter and film director Ettore Scola. The exhibition was organised before Scola died in Rome aged 84 at the beginning of this year. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

LA SPINA: DALL’AGRO VATICANO A VIA DELLA CONCILIAZIONE 22 July-20 Nov Exhibition of images illustrating the Renaissance-era block of buildings, known as the Spina, that was demolished in the St Peter’s area in 1936 to make way for the vast new Via della Conciliazione. Architectural fragments and archaeological artefacts from the

MINUTE VISIONI 25 June-31 Dec Around 100 objects such as paintings, tables, snuff boxes, plates, jewellery and paperweights are included in this exhibition dedicated to the meticulous art of micro-mosaic. The typically Roman technique reached its peak between the late 18th- and the mid19th century, with dozens of specialist workshops located mainly between Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna.

Museo Napoleonico, Piazza di Ponte Umberto I 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it.

CAPOLAVORI DA SCOPRIRE 1 June-8 Jan With its mix of ancient sculpture and modern industrial machinery, the Centrale Montemartini is one of Rome’s most unusual but least visited museums. New items on display include several ancient Roman mosaics and an Egyptian ivory doll, as well as a bust of Agrippina the Younger – wife of Claudius and mother of Nero – on loan from the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art museum in Copenhagen. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org.

LA MISERICORDIA NELL’ARTE 31 May-27 Nov Coinciding with the Vatican’s ongoing Holy Jubilee Year of Mercy, the Capitoline Museums examines the theme of mercy through paintings, sculpture, engravings and miniatures by Italian masters. The exhibition comprises works of art from across Italy, with highlights including paintings by Guido Reni, Jacopo Bertoia and Pierre Subleyras, as well as a bas-relief by Pietro Bernini, father of Gian Lorenzo. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

CLASSICAL ROME For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above).

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com.

Roma Sinfonietta, Teatro Italia, Via Bari 18, www.romasinfonietta.com

L’Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio presents Carmen at Teatro Olimpico.

Noh musical drama format. In collaboration with Nuova Consonanza. Teatro Palladium, Via Bartolomeo Romano 8, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONIC ROMANA

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

BEETHOVENKLAAVIER 9 Oct-18 Dec This adventurous new initiative by the Accademia Filarmonica is to encourage young Italian pianists and composers.

It is divided into two parts, starting this autumn and finishing in autumn 2017.

The pianists (from 20-30 years old) will play all of Beethoven’s piano sonatas over the two year period, and each concert will also include a work by a contemporary Italian composer. On 13 Nov it is the turn of Leonardo Pierdomenico from S. Cecilia and Giovanni Nesi from the Fiesole school of music.

On 27 Nov Leonardo Colafelice plays four Beethoven sonatas and the premiere of Fernweh by Francessco Fournier. Sala Casella, Accademia Filarmonica Romana, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

BOLERO 10-12 Nov American pianist Conrad Tao makes his debut at S. Cecilia with Gershwin’s concerto in F which was commissioned for the New York Symphony Orchestra in 1924 soon after the premiere of Rhapsody in Blue. Andréz Orozco Estrada also conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra playing music by Barber and Ravel’s Boléro. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

CARMEN PIAZZA VITTORIO ORCHESTRA 3-13 Nov After its success touring Europe with Mozart’s Magic Flute the Rome-based multi-cultural Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio is back on stage with its interpretation of Bizet’s Carmen, which it premiered in France in 2013 and in Rome last year. Teatro Olimpico, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

HANJO 18 Nov Opera in one act composed by Marcello Panni based on the text by Yukio Mishima in the traditional Japanese

LONQUICH AND THE S. CECILIA SOLOISTS 16 Nov Pianist Alexander Lonquich performs music by Schumann with the soloists of the Accademia di S. Cecilia, Carlo Maria Parazzoli (violin) Simone Briatore (viola), Luigi Piovano (cello) and Alessandro Carbonare (clarinet). Lonquich also performs solo on 28 Nov, playing music by Schumann. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

SMETENA, LA MIA PATRIA 17-19 Nov The S. Cecilia orchestra is conducted by Jakub Hrusa playing Smetena’s six symphonic poems which were composed between 1874-1879. Although the six works are usually played as one symphony they were in fact composed as separate works, inspired by the history, myths and legends of Bohemia. Audi-

torium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

DANIEL BARENBOIM IN RECITAL 21 Nov The programme for Baremboim’s onenight recital at S. Cecilia is still to be decided. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it.

JANINE JANSEN 23 Nov Violinist Janine Jansen, accompanied

by Alexander Gavrylyuk on the piano, plays music by Brahms, Poulenc, Szymanowski and Prokofiev. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

INEDIA PRODIGIOSA

BY LUCIA RONCHETTI 26-27 Nov This choral work for female voices was commissioned for the Teatro Massimo in Palermo and first performed on 1 Oct this year. Its theme is anorexia mirabilis, or the mediaeval fasting ritual when women and young girls would starve themsevles almost to the point of death in the name of God, similar in its symptoms to the contemporary eating disorder, anorexia nervosa. This work follows the Italian composer’s Anatra al Sal first presented at the 2104 Romaeuropa Festival. It is part of the 2016 Romaeuropa Festival and will be performed at the Terme di Diocleziano, Aula X. AUDITORIUM CONCILIAZIONE CORO DELLA ARMATA RUSSA 8 Nov The only Rome performace of the faNovember 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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mous Russian Red Army male choir and ballet, although it is programmed to appear in Reggio Emilio for the anniversary of the 1917 October Revolution.

It was founded in 1928 and although it was once a military-based choir it is now made up almost entirely of civilians however they still wear military dress and perform military music from the Soviet period. Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI LOUIS LORTIE 5 Nov Louis Lortie plays music by Grieg, Beethoven and Brahms. The FrenchCanadian pianist teaches at the Accademia Pianistica in Imola. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ENSEMBLE ARS LUDI 8 Nov This concert is a homage to Steve Reich on his 80th birthday by the multi-media percussion group, famous for its performances of contemporary music.

Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

BELCEA QUARTET 15 Nov The Belcea Quartet plays music by Schubert and Shostakovich. The string quartet was formed when its members were studying at London’s Royal College of Music in 1994, inspired by the Alan Berg and the Amadeus Quartets.

It made its mark with its live recording of the complete Beethoven string quartets in 2012-2013. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www. concertiiuc.it.

Mussorgski, but surprisingly no music by his favourite Liszt. Campanella is professor of piano at the Accademia Musicale Chigiana and is a member of Accademia S. Cecilia. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

ROMA SINFONIETTA NUOVE VOCI COREANE 9 Nov In the series “Nuove voci coreane per il Belcanto”, which has been running through Oct, the Roma Sinfonietta accompanies Hanna Kim (soprano) and Byungjoon Chou (tenor) in arias from Puccini, Verdi, Rossini and Massenet. In collaboration with the embassy of the Republic of Korea. Teatro Italia, Via Bari 18, www.romasinfonietta.com.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ KING CRIMSON 11-12 Nov The line-up of this veteran English group of musicians has gone through multiple changes since the original band was formed in 1968. Likewise the group’s musical style has veered away from its initial psychedelic and prog rock sound of the 1960s, incorporating elements from various other musical styles along the way. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4 tel.

06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

EUROPE 19 Nov One of the major rock bands of the

1980s performs at Rome’s Orion Club on 19 Nov. Formed in 1979, the Swedish group gained international fame after the release of the hit album The Final Countdown in 1986. The band has sold over 20 million albums world wide. For tickets see Ticket One website, www. ticketone.it. Orion Club, Viale Kennedy 52 (Ciampino), tel. 0689013645, www. orionliveclub.com.

ELISA 19-20 Nov The Italian singer-songwriter Elisa performs two concerts at the Palalottomatica. The pop singer has had enormous success with hit singles such as Luce and Eppure Sentire. She is also one of the few Italian musicians to write and record in English, and is familiar to an English-speaking audience with songs such as Come Speak to Me. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Palalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport.

dance MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ROMEO E GIULIETTA

By THAIKOVSKY 20 Dec -19 Jan This is the well-tried Kenneth Macmillan choreography which has been an old favourite at La Scala for many years. The dancers are Roberto Bolle and Misty Copeland, from the Ameri-

ST PAUL CHAMBER ORCHESTRA AND PATRICIA KOPATCHINSKAJA 19 Nov Music by Klein, Mendelssohn, Schubert, Dowland and Kurtag. The St Paul Chamber orchestra from St Paul, Minnesota is known for its programme of musical education in Minneapolis/St Paul area of the United States. Its recording of Aaron Copeland’s Appalachian Spring was one of the earliest digital audio recordings released commercially. Here it is under the leadership of one of its new artistic partners, violinist Patricia Kopatchinskaja. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

MICHELE CAMPANELLA 29 Nov Pianist Michele Campanella marks 50 years of his musical career playing music by Schumann, Prokopiev and

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Elisa performs two concerts at the Palalottomatica on 19-20 November.

can Theatre Ballet who is making her debut at La Scala. There is a gala performance on 31 December with Alessandra Ferri and Herman Cornejo, principal dancer at the American Ballet Theatre, also making his debut at La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL DNA LE RECITAL DES POSTURES YASMINE HUGONNET 3-4 Nov The section DNA is dedicated to a group of talented young international choreographers. The first in the DNA section is Le Recital des Postures by and with Yasmine Hugonnet (Switzerland).

The second is 3Tracks4 by C&C Company/Residenza Idra (Italy, France and Israel). The third is Elvedon by Christos Papadopoulos (Greece) with his company Leon and The Wolf. The fourth is Kokoro, the first full length choreography by Spanish choreographer and dancer Lali Ayguadé who has worked with the Akram Khan Company in England. London critics described her as an exceptional dancer in 2010. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, www.romaeuropa.net/festival-2016/ TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SWAN LAKE 30 Sept-5 Nov A pre-season performance of Swan Lake at the Teatro dell’Opera with the stars and ballet school of the Rome opera house. This version was choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon in 2004 for the Philadelphia Ballet. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

THE NUTCRACKER 18-24 Dec This is a repeat of the ballet that marked the beginning of the new artistic direction of the opera’s ballet academy by Eleonora Abbagnato last year. Altough it is a traditional Christmas work, Abbagnato considers it a fundamental piece of the classical repertoire both for dancers but also for the audience. The new choreography by Giuliano Peparini – who not only has television exprience but also a strong classical background with Roland Petit – clocked up record audiences last year. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

Misty Copeland principal dancer of the American Ballet Theatre makes her debut at La Scala in Romeo e Giulietta with Roberto Bolle.

TEATRO VASCELLO ROY ASSAF SIX YEARS LATER and THE HILL 12-13 Nov These two works, Six Years Later (2011) and The Hill (2012) are by the Israeli choreographer Roy Assaf, who is dancing in both. In Six Years Later, about a couple who meet again after six years, he dances with Madison Hoke. In The Hill, based on a theme from the Six Days War, he performs with Igal Furman and Avshalom Latuch. Assaf first started dancing with Emanuel Gat in 2003 and they worked together until 2010. Assaf has recently been commissioned to create two other works, one for the National Dance Company of Wales and the other for the Batsheva Dance Company. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

ORLANDO 19-20 Nov Inspired by Orlando Furioso by Ariosto.

The choreography is by Raphael Bianco who is also one of the seven dancers

from the Compagnia S. Paolo from Turin. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

FUTURA BALLANDO CON LUCIO

BY MILENA ZULLO 24-27 Nov First performed in 2014 this work is set to songs by Lucio Dalla in this Balletto di Roma production choreographed

by Milena Zullo, who has also created works for Aterballetto. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

HOME ALONE 26-27 Nov For a young audience interacting with videos, based on an idea by Alessandro Sciarroni. This work comes after Sciarroni’s success with Joseph_Kids created in 2013 in which the dancers and the audience explore multiple ways to use different media. Every member of the audience becomes a possible creative performer. It is part of the Balletto di Roma’s project Teatro Ragazzi. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www. teatrovascello.it.

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opera

MILAN

LE NOZZE DI FIGARO

BY MOZART 26 Oct-27 Nov This new production of Le Nozze di Figaro marks the 225th anniversary of Mozart’s death. The director is the up-and-coming Frederic Wake-Walker who first made his mark at the 2014 Glyndebourne festival with Mozart’s early opera La Finta Giardiniera. In his La Scala debut he says that he feels that it is in some ways a graduation from La Finta Giardiniera and that he continues some of the same principles he used in the earlier opera, particularly the theatricality and the audience involvement. The conductor is Franz Welser-Moest and the cast includes internationally famous stars such as Diana Damrau, Marianne Crebassa,

festivals ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 24 June-3 Dec The multidisciplinary Romaeuropa Festival combines contemporary dance, theatre, circus, art, technology and music, under the title Portati Altrove.

This year’s edition comprises 50 events, of which 34 are Italian premieres, with over 145 days of performances. Highlights include a musical retrospective by contemporary American composer and long-time Rome resident Alvin Curran performs at the French Academy at Villa Medici on 25 Nov. Endangered Species or The Alvin Curran Fakebook features 200 segments of sounds from across Curran’s almost 50-year career of experimentation and improvisation.

The seventh edition of the festival’s futuristic section Digital Life examines the interaction between visual arts and technology, and includes Zee, an immersive audiovisual project featuring artificial fog, stroboscopes, pulse lights and surround sound, by Chicago-based Austrian artist Kurt Hentschläger; Deep Dream_Act II by Rome collective NONE; and 3D Water Matrix, a kinetic water installation by Shiro Takatani and Christian Partos (until 27 Nov). See also Dance on page 29. For booking, events and venue information tel. 0645553050 or see festival website, www.romaeuropa.net.

FOTOGRAFIA: FESTIVAL INTERNAZIONALE DI ROMA 21 Oct-8 Jan FOTOGRAFIA, the Rome International Photography Festival, showcases the

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Digital Life for Romaeuropa Festival.

Deep Dream_Act II by Rome collective NONE. Photo Cristina Vatielli.

work of new artists and promotes contemporary photography in its various forms and languages. This year the 15th edition of the festival is dedicated to Roma, il mondo, examining the important and long-established role that Rome plays on the world stage and, closer to home, with the capital’s foreign cultural institutes. The Roman theme was chosen to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the publication of the first volume of Goethe’s Italian Journey, and central to this year’s festival is its customary collaboration with the city’s principal foreign academies including the American Academy in Rome, the German Academy at Villa Massimo and the French Academy at Villa Medici.

MACRO, Sala Enel, Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.org.

ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL 6-23 Nov Rome’s annual rendezvous with jazz returns with an impressive line-up of Italian and international acts. This year the Roma Jazz Festival celebrates its 40th anniversary with a packed concert programme between the Auditorium Parco della Musica and the Casa del Jazz. Festival highlights include performances by Jacob Collier (9 Nov), Richard Galliano (12 Nov), John Scofield (13 Nov), and Paola Ronci & The Hot Jambalaya (20 Nov). For full programme details see festival website, www.romajazzfestival.it.

OPERA NOTES Alla Scala di Milano Le nozze di Figaro è una produzione che si annuncia interessante per la presenza del direttore Franz Welser-Moest, al suo debutto scaligero, e del regista Frederic Wake-Walker, che al Festival di Glyndebourne 2014 con successo ha proposto La finta giardiniera sempre di Mozart. Addirittura stellare il cast vocale: che vede Diana Damrau interprete della struggente e malinconica Contessa Rosina, Markus Werba dell’intraprendente e provocatore Figaro e nel ruolo dell’autoritario e insincero Conte d’Almaviva vede Simon Keenlyside succedere a Carlos Álvarez nel corso delle dieci repliche. Gli abiti della scaltra e vivace Susanna sono indossati da Golda Schultz, che ancora a Glyndebourne quest’anno ha cantato nelle Nozze di Figaro, ma interpretando il ruolo della Contessa. Cherubino, il giovane paggio preda di turbamenti amorosi e al quale Mozart regale due arie tra le più belle della partitura, è interpretato da Marianne Crebassa.

Le nozze di Figaro è la prima delle tre opere (le altre sono Don Giovanni e Così fan tutte) che nasce dalla collaborazione con il librettista Lorenzo Da Ponte. Nasce non senza difficoltà, in particolare per problemi di censura gravanti sull’omonima commedia di Beaumarchais che è d’ispirazione all’opera, tuttavia il risultato è eccellente: Le nozze di Figaro è considerato all’unanimità dai critici e dal pubblico come uno dei più perfetti e più alti esempi di teatro musicale.

Paolo di Nicola

Golda Schulz, Markus Werbe, Carlos Alvarez and Simon Keenlyside alternating in the role of the Conte. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

PORGY AND BESS

BY GERSHWIN 15-23 Nov This new production is in a semi-scenic version using the original score for the first time at La Scala, much of it influenced by Alan Berg’s Wozzeck and the Vienna for the 1920s. It is conducted

by Alan Gilbert, the musical director of the New York Symphony Orchestra.

Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

MADAME BUTTERFLY

BY PUCCINI 10 Dec-8 Jan The fashionable first night of the new La Scala season is on 7 Dec but for

the general public Puccini’s Madame Butterfly opens on 10 Dec. La Scala’s principal conductor Riccardo Chailly conducts Puccini’s masterpiece in its original version, which was fiercely contested when it was first produced at Milan’s opera theatre in 1904. The director is Alvis Hermanis whose two previous productions at La Scala of Die Soldaten and I due Foscari were highly successful. Uruguay soprano Maria José Siri, who has already sung in Bologna, Turin, Naples, Verona and Macerata this year, takes the role of Cio-Cio San. Bryan Hymel sings the part of Pinkerton. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME TRISTAN UND ISOLDE

BY WAGNER 27 Nov-11 Dec Wagner’s opera is conducted by Dan-

iele Gatti, who has just taken over as the new musical director of Amsterdam’s Royal Concertgebouw, one of the world’s top symphony orchestras. It is directed by Pierre Audi with Andreas Schager as Tristano and Rachel Nicholls as Isolde. It is a new co-production with the Paris Champs-Elysees Theatre and the Amsterdam National Opera. Gatti had good critics when the same production was first staged in Paris in May this year. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

theatre TEATRO INDIA 26 Oct-20 Nov Massimo Popolizio directs a performance of Ragazzi di vita, the controversial 1956 work by Italian author, poet and intellectual Pier Paolo Pasolini for Teatro India. The story follows the escapades of street urchins and rent boys in the impoverished suburbs of postwar Rome. In Italian. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.teatrodiroma.net.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 25 Nov The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity (in English) features the club’s founder Marsha De Salvatore along with the regular troupe of Rome-based comics. Doors open as usual at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere.

Opera Notes

Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde opens the season at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, conducted by Daniele Gatti.

è al nastro di partenza la stagione 2016/17 del Teatro dell’Opera di Roma con Tristan und Isolde di Richard Wagner (27 novembre – 11 dicembre). Sul podio un direttore di prestigio: Daniele Gatti che vanta la presenza per ben tre stagioni nel golfo mistico del Teatro di Bayreuth e per avervi eseguito Parsifal, l’opera scritta apposta per essere rappresentata in quello che è considerato (e voluto dal compositore stesso) il tempio della musica wagneriana “dell’avvenire”. La regia sarà affidata a Pierre Audi, che nel 2009 presentò sempre a Roma un affascinante quanto provocatorio allestimento di Pélleas et Mélisande di Claude Debussy. Il cast interamente straniero vede nei ruoli del titolo Andreas Schager e Rachel Nicholls, in quelli dei confidenti dei protagonisti Brett Polegato e Michelle Breedt e nella parte del tradito zio di Tristan nonché consorte di Isolde John Relyea. é colto e significativo che il Teatro dell’Opera presenti Tristan und Isolde (finito di comporre nel 1859) subito dopo Un ballo in maschera di Verdi (che fu rappresentato ugualmente nel 1859). Opere accomunate dall’essere due travolgenti quanto impossibili storie d’amore, entrambe poste al vertice della maturità artistica degli autori. Tristan und Isolde con il suo cromatismo spinto alle estreme conseguenze è considerato il culmine e nello stesso tempo il declino del romanticismo ottocentesco, ma pure l’inizio della “moderna” musica atonale del Novecento.

Paolo di Nicola

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ROME SAVOYARDS 2-6 Nov The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome present an English-language production of She Stoops to Conquer by Oliver Goldsmith. This classic comedy of deception and seduction by Anglo-Irish author Oliver Goldsmith was first performed in London in 1773 and its popularity with audiences has endured ever since. The story centres around two well-to-do young London men, Marlow and Hastings, who arrive in the countryside in search of romance with females of the lower classes. Things take a comic twist after the pair are tricked into believing their wealthy host Mr Hardcastle is a humble innkeeper, and his daughter Kate a maid. Directed by Sandra Provost. 2-4 November at 20.30, 5-6 Nov at 17.30. Bookings and info email playsinrome@yahoo.com or tel.

347 / 8248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, off Viale Mazzini, www.teatrosangenesio.it.

PETER PAN 11-20 Nov This award-winning musical production, based on the children’s classic by J.M. Barrie and with soundtrack by Edoardo Bennato, returns to Teatro Brancaccio. Director Maurizio Colombi creates a magical world, with 20 performers on stage, Peter Pan flying overhead and duels with the pirates of Captain Hook, while the audience can summon Tinkerbell by shouting Io credo alle fate (I believe in fairies). In Italian. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, www. teatrobrancaccio.it.

Ragazzi di Vita at Teatro India.

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 13 Oct-27 Nov The American Academy in Rome presents an exhibition entitled A View of One’s Own: Three Women Photographers in Rome. The show features the work of Esther Van Deman, Georgina Masson, Jeannette Montgomery Barron, three expat photographers whose images of Rome span the early 20th century until today. Van Deman was an American archaeologist who photographed Rome and its surroundings in the 1910s; Masson was a British author whose 1965 classic The Companion Guide to Rome is still used by visitors to the Eternal City; and Montgomery Barron is a Rome-based American photographer who captures contemporary glimpses of the modern-day capital. The exhibition is curated by Lindsay Harris, Peter Benson Miller, and Angela Piga, and the photographs come largely from the academy’s collection. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel.

065852151, www.aarome.org.

A View of One’s Own exhibition at the American Academy in Rome. Piazza S. Pietro

by Georgina Masson.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 9-23 Nov There are several interesting talks in November at the British School at Rome. 9 Nov. The imperial senate and the city of Rome, lecture by Amy Russell (BSR; Durham University.) 16 Nov. The skill of the glassblower: its Roman-world ascent and Renaissance Venice zenith, by William Gudenrath of the Corning Museum of Glass. 23 Nov. The fate of the column of Antoninus Pius by Ronald Ridley, University of Melbourne. All events 18.00-19.30. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 23 Sept-13 Nov The exhibition At the foot of the Pyramid: 300 years of the cemetery for foreigners in Rome marks the 300th anniversary of the city’s Non-Catholic Cemetery. Comprising important international loans, the exhibition is the first to reveal how artists have depicted the so-called Protestant Cemetery from the 18th to the early-20th centuries. The more than 40 European and American paintings, drawings and prints on display reflect the cemetery’s beauty as well as documenting its history and gradual transformation. The exhibition includes works by artists including Turner, Crane, Roesler Franz, Karl Friedrich Schinkel and Munch. Curated by Nicholas Stanley-Price (who will lead a guided tour in English on Sunday 6 November at 16.00), the exhibition is organised in conjunction with the Casa di Goethe, under the auspices of the 15 embassies that administer the Non-Catholic Cemetery. The show’s

catalogue is published in English, Italian and German. See Stanley-Price article on Wanted in Rome website.

Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel.

0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 14 Oct-15 Jan To celebrate its 350th anniversary the French Academy in Rome – Villa Medici presents the exhibition 350 Years of Creativity: The Artists of the French Academy in Rome from Louis XIV to the Present.

The exhibition highlights the creative output of the academy’s artists, from residents to directors, during their time in Rome. It includes over 100 works dating from 1666 to the present day, by artists such as Fragonard, David, Ingres, Berlioz, Garnier, Carpeaux, Debussy and Balthus. The exhibition comprises paintings, drawings, statues, prints, musical scores and archive material, ending with a video of works created by residents in recent decades. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel.

066761305, www.villamedici.it.

GERMAN ACADEMY 7 Oct-2 Dec Rome’s German Academy at Villa Massimo presents a photographic exhibition containing images by Willi Moegle and Otto Steinert, as part of the 15th edition of FOTOGRAFIA – Festival Internazionale di Roma (see page 30).

The exhibition is the third in a series illustrating the evolution of German photography from the 1920s until the present day, and examines the postwar black and white work of Moegle (1897-1989) and Steinert (1915-1978), particularly at the end of the 1950s.

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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THE GODDESS OF THE LAKE

BY MARGARET STENHOUSE

ing history, ancient and modern. She goes right back to its glacial formation and finishes in contemporary times, with the restoration of the burnt-out museum which housed the two enormous and mysterious ancient Roman ships which were salvaged from the lake in the 1920s.

In her well researched book she includes an extensive description of the worship of the goddess Diana, from Greek through Roman times. She hazards a re-reading of the four-year reign of the dreaded Roman emperor Caligula. She describes the amateur archaeological digs of the British ambassador, John Savile, to find the Temple of Diana at the end of the 19th century, the greed of the Orsini nobleman on whose land the magnificent temple was found, and the subsequent dispersal of the artefacts to museums in Denmark and England.

She includes explanations of the influence of the lake on the writing of John George Frazer’s Golden Bough and on William Turner’s paintings. She describes the herculean salvage of the two enormous Roman ships from the lake where they had lain for nearly two millennia (what were they used for and how they got there is still guesswork). And then she tells of their subsequent and mysterious destruction when the special museum in which they were housed went up in flames during the battle between the German and Allied troops soon after the Anzio landings in 1944.

People have been fascinated by this most mysterious of the Castelli lakes since time immemorial. Margaret Stenhouse joins an illustrious list of names.

An index would have been a precious addition to a book that contains so much information.

MW

Margaret Stenhouse has now published her second and more authoritative book on Lake Nemi and all its fascinat-

The book is on sale in the international bookshops in Rome and will soon be available on Amazon.

350 anni di creatività exhibition at Villa Medici. Daniel Octobre et la promotion 1930 by Daniel Octobre.

German Academy, Villa Massimo, Largo di Villa Massimo 1-2, tel. 0644259340, www.villamassimo.it.

HUNGARIAN ACADEMY 8-20 Nov The work of the 11 artists behind the Misericordia street art installation erected on Via della Conciliazione in mid-October is on display at the Hungarian Academy of Rome. The artists, eight from Hungary and three from Italy, decorated the “misericordia” letters with prints of paintings as well as thoughts on the theme of mercy. The installation, whose individual letters measured 3m high and 1m thick, represented the first time a work of street art was authorised in the surrounds of Vatican City. Hungarian Academy of Rome, Palazzo Falconieri, Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu/it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 4 Oct-28 Dec Le bambole del Giappone: forme di preghiera, espressioni d’amore. This travelling exhibition, whose title translates as Dolls of Japan: Forms of Prayer, Expressions of Love, comprises a range of dolls, from ancestral folklore and the ancient performing arts, to modern variations of the children’s toy.

6 Oct-6 Dec. Programme of films produced by Shochiku, Japan’s oldest film production company, which was founded in 1895. The films will be screened in their original language versions, with subtitles in Italian and/or English. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it.

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE 20 Sept-25 Nov The Polish Academy of Science hosts La vita fissata nell’ambra, a photographic

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Wanted in Rome | November 2016

exhibition by Aleksander Chmiel and Marek Wyszomirski. The exhibition features images of ants and spiders from some 40 million years ago, fossilised in tree resin and preserved to this day in amber. The specimens photographed belong to the collection of the Earth Museum at the Polish Academy of Science in Warsaw. Rome’s Polish Academy of Science is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Polish Academy of Science, Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it.

books

Lake Nemi and its rich history is the subject of a new book by Margaret Stenhouse.

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

St George’s artists scoop top prizes in Vivi Vejo 2016 art competition

Several talented artists from St George’s British International School were awarded top prizes at the Vivi Vejo ONLUS competition held earlier this year. 16-year-old Ruihong Jaing received the overall prize for Art, for her vibrant watercolour of the Colosseum that formed part of her coursework for AS level Art. Her efforts were rewarded with two business-class return tickets to Paris with Alitalia. Ruihong is no stranger to prizes and awards for her artwork. Last year she took her GCSE Art exam a year early and was awarded “Highest in the World” by Edexcel. In second place came 18-year-old IB Visual Artist Daniele Chen with a diptych entitled Out of My Hands exploring body

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Wanted in Rome | November 2016

language within his multicultural Chinese/Italian heritage. 14-year-old Maria Cordero di Montezemolo came fourth with her lively lino print work, while 17-year-old Carla Iannace was awarded an honourable mention for her beautiful portrait of a young Afghan girl.

Greg Morgan, Head of Art and Design & Technology at St George’s British International School, La Storta.

The Vivi Vejo Art Competition is an annual event for students from all of northern Rome’s international and Italian state schools. It is run by Vivi Vejo ONLUS which organises cultural and social projects as well as publishing its own regular magazine.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Out of My Hands by Daniele Chen.

Lino print by Maria Cordero di Montezemolo.

Portrait of young Afghan girl by Carla Iannace.

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

37

Look for more classified ads on www.wantedinrome.com

classified

COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town AMAZING MONTEVERDE STUDIO WITH TERRACE. Amazing studio in Monteverde, Viale di Villa Pamphilj, 50 sqm, fully renovated, 4th floor with terrace, lift, bright, quiet, furnished, living room with pullout bed, eat-in kitchen, bathroom with shower. TV, WiFi internet, air conditioning, heating, dish washer, washing machine.Alessandro 392 / 4730997. alessandrodnmonteverde@yahoo.com.

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

COSY APARTMENT IN PIAZZA EPIRO - S. GIOVANNI AREA. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished & equipped renovated, living room, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom.

1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12mins walk from Colosseum. €1.500 month. Other Pics-available. airleas. rome@gmail.com.

GARDEN FLAT MONTEVERDE NUOVO. Twin bedroom, living room convertible into bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, 30 sqm terrace, €950, tel. 347 / 3608854 NO FEES https:// www.airbnb.it/ rooms/46498.

MANZONI AREA. Furnished studios:1) For single person €480 monthly minimum 3 months. 2) Garden flat €800 monthly minimum 9 months. Email: dellascala4@ gmail.com.

NUOVO SALARIO - VIA SALARIA / VIA NOMENTANA NEIGHBOURHOOD. Elegant, bright and finely furnished. Composed of living and dining room, 2 double bedrooms, equipped kitchen, 2

baths (equipped with shower, sauna and Jacuzzi), 3 balconies, garage.

Elegante, luminoso, ammobiliato, termoautonomo, impianto allarme, cassetta sicurezza, composto da: soggiorno/salotto, cucina abitabile, 2 camere doppia/matrim, 2 bagni (con vasca idromassaggio e con doccia e sauna), 3 balconi, posto auto in garage condominiale. federico.fusano@ gmail.com.

PRATI CLOSE TO VATICAN. Furnished 90 sqm apartment, three bedrooms, open living, kitchen, bathroom, 2 balconies, elevator, 9th floor, fast Wi-Fi, 10 min walk Ottaviano station Metro Line A / bus. Wonderful view of St Peter’s cupola and close to district food market. marina.a.j7@gmail.com.

S. MARIA MAGGIORE. Single room, between S. M. Maggiore and S. Giovanni, metro A/B, share bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Wi-Fi. Tel. 338 / 7911289.

TO RENT IN VIA MERULANA. To rent with contract. Apartment completely refurbished and furnished in Via Merulana. 60 sqm. Living room, bedroom, bathroom, kitchen. Ideal for single or couple. Fifth floor with elevator. A/C. Available as from 1 November. dorapaolo@yahoo.it or tel.

333 / 3802250.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium.Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400.

Wanted in Rome does not accept responsibility for the content of the advertisements it publishes.

CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza

Office hours: Mon – Fri 10.00 – 16.00.

Orari ufficio: lun – ven 10.00 – 16.00.

PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione

27 Nov 1 Jan

Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

7 Dec 11 Jan

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

39

fedel@email.it Jobs vacant COLOSSEUM TOUR PROMOTERS. Tour Operator seeks energetic, self-motivated promoters to sell Colosseum guided tours outside the monument. Commissions on sales job with potential for great earnings. Experience in sales and native English speakers preferred. Please call Magdalena at + 39 324 / 7492725. 14.00 - 21.00. palbriz@hotmail.com.

EMT NANNY (LIVE OUT). Looking for an experienced english mother tongue nanny to look after 2 kids (4yo and 2yo). Monday to Friday 14.0019.00. Location EUR. Good references and driving license. Please send CV to: cripalm@libero.it.

ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com.

ENGLISH LANGUAGE TEACHER NEEDED. English Language teacher Needed, preferably with Teaching qualification, CELTA-TEFL for English course for 2 kids from next week. 1 day per week 17.00-18.00 (Tuesday, Thursday or Friday). Please send cv to info@ ciao-italia.it.

FULL TIME - ENGLISH MOTHERTONGUE SECRETARY. Studio Dottori Commercialisti in Roma, Via Aurora (Via Veneto) is seeking a full time English mother tongue secretary. Opportunity to learn about Commercialista job. Please send cv to segreteria@ studiointernazionale.org.

HANDYMAN/ FACILITIES COORDINATOR/MAINTENANCE. Comforts of Home/Comforts of Italy, Europe Study Abroad Housing specialist, is looking for the following for its growing Rome office: Handyman/Facilities Coordinator. Selected candidates will join our Facilities Management team, which services and manages some 20 apartments throughout Rome according to the Company’s high standards. The Handyman/Facilities Coordinator’s responsibilities include but are not limited to: performing a variety of minor repairs (plumbing, electricity, and car-

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Wanted in Rome | November 2016

pentry) and knowing when an outside contractor may be necessary coordinating and performing deliveries of furniture and soft goods to dozens of new properties preparing Comforts of Home’s new properties prior to client arrivals, including furniture assembly and appliance set-up, and ensuring the safety of electrical and plumbing installations, perform special projects and other duties as assigned. This position requires from time to time, the need for driving a vehicle, van or car, or a scooter therefore candidates with a valid Italian driver’s license will be preferred. The individuals we are looking for are: self-starting, independent and energetic; eager to be a part of growing, fun and thriving team; willing to work flexible hours, fluent in Italian and English; extremely organized, extremely handy! rguercini@get-comfortable.com.

HOSTESS FOR TEA ROOMS AND RESTAURANT. We are looking for a hostess who needs to speak fluent in English and Italian, for fall time, day job in the centre of Rome. Working hours from 12.00 to 18.40, six days a week. rory.b@babingtons.net.

IMMEDIATE OPENING - MATH TEACHER. International High School, based in the heart of Rome is hiring an algebra, geometry, upper level IB math teacher.

All instruction conducted in English. Teaching experience required, IB experience preferred. Competitive salary and benefits.

Candidates are required to send their CVs and covering letters to ststephens@ sssrome.it.

LANGUAGE AND LITERACY INSTRUCTOR. US University seeks a Language and Literacy Instructor for

the Fall 2017 term in Florence, Italy.

Min. criteria: Master’s Degree in Education; 3 years teaching literacy in upper elementary grades, knowledge of current evidence based practices in reading and writing instruction, ESL pedagogy; experience providing professional development and/or college level teaching in Education. Fluency in oral and written English. Collaborative, intercultural communication skills. To apply: florenceoffice@fairfield.it.

LONG TERM SUB FOR SECONDARY MUSIC. Maternity leave replacement from beginning November 2016 to mid-April 2017. For this position Bachelor’s degree, native English speaker and two to three years of teaching experience in music and a strong background in instrumental music and piano required. MA degree in music preferred. Valid permit of stay for US citizens required. Please email detailed CV to info@aosr.org.

LOOKING FOR A NEW TEACHER. We’re looking for a new teacher to join our small and friendly team full or part time. We need motivated and positive team members. Experience with children aged 6 - 15 is preferred. Applicants must be native speakers and EU

citizens (or have valid working papers).

It is not necessary to speak Italian. To apply, complete the form here: www. creativeenglish.it/hiring.

MOTHER-TONGUE PRIMARY AND NURSERY SCHOOL TEACHERS. Private school is searching for mothertongue teachers for the 2016/2017 school year. Candidates have to be qualified and, at least, 2/3 year teaching experience with young learners. info@fondazionecavalsassi.it.

MOTHER-TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHER. BRITISH INSTITUTES di Valmontone seeks mother tongue English teachers. TEFL/Celta YL or equivalent qualification. Experience teaching children and adult classes a plus. Send CV to valmontone@britishinstitutes.it.

MOTHER-TONGUE EARLY YEARS TEACHER. Mother-tongue Early Years teacher required in international school. Qualifications and experience are necessary. info@casaghianda.it.

MOTHER-TONGUE ENGLISH TEACH-

ERS. Established English School seeking part-time qualified English mother-tongue teachers for young children and adult courses for immediate start. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to job@angloamerican.it.

SALES OFFICE PERSON REQUIRED. Person required to work in busy sales office in S. Cesareo selling printing accessories. Good telephone manner required, with willingness to spend time finding and selling to new customers by telephone. Must be fluent in Italian and competent in English. otti@tecnolinesas.com.

SEEKING A PART-TIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Our company is seeking a part-time English teacher (bilingual or mother tongue) for our nursery and kindergarten on Via della Cava Aurelia. Position starting from September 2016 to July 2017. Send CV to the following e-mail address: livia. viadelcasaletto60@yahoo.it.

SEEKING ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE. English mother tongue female student required for 14 hours

per week, English lessons. Contact Antonio, info.omnitours@gmail.com, tel. 335 / 8135235.

THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME IS LOOKING TO HIRE A BUSINESS ANALYST. The selected candidate will be required to participate in the annual University budget planning processes and produce specialized budget/actual reports, also consolidating information and data from different systems and sources within the University. He/she will be capable of providing advice to management on options to correct negative variances, be proactive in improving processes and methodologies to enable better reporting, analysis and financial advice. The ideal candidate must have at least two years of experience in a similar position, a University degree in Economics-Business Administration or Business Management, excellent knowledge of financial and managerial accounting, strong planning and analytical skills. He/she must be able to visualize and simplify complex data sets, must be computer literate with excellent knowledge

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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of Excel (including Pivot Tables).

Experience with SQL and relational databases. Required fluency in Italian and English (written and verbal).

A resume (quote re: Business Analyst HR9/2016), with at least 1 reference contact, is to be submitted by e-mail to humanresources@aur.edu or by fax to +39 0658330992. Interviews will start as soon as possible and will be on-going until the position is filled. AUR is an equal opportunity employer.

THE BRITISH SCHOOL URGENTLY REQUIRES TEACHERS. British School Fleming urgently requires experienced and qualified EFL teachers for children and adults (on site and externally). Good rate of pay and in-house training provided but you must be a native speaker and already be based in Rome. Please send your c.v. and covering letter to fleming@ britishschoolroma.it and we’ll get back to you if we’d like to meet you.

THE YELLOW BAR SEEKS STAFF WITH MINIMAL EXPERIENCE. *In order to apply you must complete all fields required online - jobs.the-

yellow.com* One of the busiest bars in Rome is currently seeking bar staff and servers for both day time and night time positions. Someone who enjoys a fast paced atmosphere and interacting with a young crowd would be better suited to this role.

We look for: Excellence in customer service, fluent in English and basic Italian, Friendly and love to help people, able to multi-task and knowledgeable in computer skills. Ages 20- 30. Cultural tolerance and openmindedness, high level of independence and flexible hours. Motivation to work with tourists, knowledge in health/safety, food safety and alcohol consumption regulations. *In order to apply you must complete all fields required online - jobs.theyellow.com* TRAINING SCUOLA DI LINGUE IS SEEKING. Mother-tongue qualified English teachers required for company courses in Rome. Please send CV to info@trainingclub.com.

YOUNG LEARNER TEACHER REQUIRED. For a children’s Language school. Mother-tongue English,

teaching qualifications and classroom experience are all minimum requirements. Please send CV and cover letter to teach@kidscando.it.

Jobs wanted LOOKING FOR AN ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE PERSON M/F. Looking for an English mother tongue person- male or female-, for my 2 twins aged 8. You must be available Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday (sometime if is possible) afternoon from 16.00-20.00. You should spend time outdoors or indoors (including taking and collecting them from tennis club near home) with my lovely kids speaking English and having fun!!!

For more details call 335 / 5474677.

LESSONS ENGLISH LESSONS. Highly experienced native English teacher (ex British School, British Institute, Camera dei Deputati) Tel. Andrew 329 / 0112525.

November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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ITALIAN LANGUAGE CLASSES AND TRANSLATIONS. Have a Master and a PhD in International Politics (earned in the UK) and a significant experience as teacher of Italian as a second language and as editor and translator (English to Italian).

Academic Italian (in Liberal Arts and Socio-Political subjects) classes available Area: Downtown, Monteverde, Trastevere, Testaccio, Aventino, Portuense, Ostiense, moribana8@gmail. com.

MADRELINGUA INGLESE. Qualified and experienced English Teacher available for lessons for adults and students over 12 years for all levels, your house or mine, and private companies. Agente per corsi d’inglese all’estero. Central Rome e Piazza Bologna. For further information contact: ams.11@hotmail.it.

FRENCH LESSONS. Native French speaker, 20 years’ teaching/translating experience (Univ. of Bath, Bristol, Paris) offers conversation, writing and exam preparation lessons for all levels and ages. Your house or mine (Piazza Barberini). Tel. 345 / 4425709 cedricsucci@hotmail.com.

SKYPE ENGLISH LESSONS. Highly qualified and experienced teacher of English living in UK offers lessons via Skype. All Cambridge exams plus IELTS and IELTS for UKVI. ellough23@ gmail.com.

poetry

BELL TOWER. This time there is no fire to go out for the firemen in Amatrice.

There is only the tricolour flame to warm the heart of every earthquake victims. Of every italianssernicolimarco@gmail.com.

DAMNED ILLUSION. The way you kiss is like the one of a wife hardly left by her husband which goes to work.The difference is that you haven’t nor husband nor work.But kiss well. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

IMMIGRANTS WHERE? Europe government blamed each other. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

MARCO E LAURA. Our story is full of love like the one of a mother for her

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Wanted in Rome | November 2016

son, the difference is that not only grew but last a life. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

ORANGE. There is nothing to miss about you, there is nothing to come before or after you. I will cover you with flowers and kisses, I will cover you with azure and blue of citrus and sun. There is nothing which passes before you, there is nothing which runs faster than you.

I will cover you with gifts and smiles, I will cover you with walks around Rome, I will cover you with poetry from Wanted in Rome. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

SOLITUDE. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the window they play ball, smoke cigarettes, listen to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the door my father plays ball, smokes cigarettes, listens to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the garden my mother plays ball, smokes cigarettes, listens to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of what. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

STATUS QUO. States without money, men without work, children without food. They fight to cope. Somebody tell to believe in the church and in Francis. The pope. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

Property for sale out of town CHARMING PRE-WAR VILLA IN GROTTAFERRATA. A fine example of the Castelli Romani era of the 1920s, this enchanting property features a 4BR home, a barn, a storage shed and 2,500 sqm of parkland with pine and olive trees, fruit orchards and a vineyard with grapes for eating and wine-making. From the monumental gate, a gently sloping driveway over 120-m-long leads to a decorative fountain, twin marble staircases and a bright sun terrace with sprawling views of Mount Cavo. segreteria@ zucchettire.com.

Rooms and flat shares

THE QUESTION OF IMMIGRANT. Pass the buck... sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

CENTRE ROME METRO CAVOUR. Room private bathroom wifi quiet furnished nice area €780 monthly, 392 / 5958234, cometisentioggi@hotmail.com

TO LAURA, A FRIEND OF MINE. Falling in love is like simmer, unfortunately my flame was too high, but I don’t get burned Laura, because. Once she made me taste her... biological apples! sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

S. MARIA MAGGIORE. Single room, between S. M. Maggiore and S. Giovanni, metro A/B, share bathroom, kitchen and washing machine.

Wi-Fi. Tel. 338 / 7911289.

YOU LAURA. You, always around you beloved by somebody you sweet and clever you beautiful and stop you only for you and me. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details.

Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446.

Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel.

334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel.

800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 November 2016 | Wanted in Rome

47

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

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Wanted in Rome | November 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel.

0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel.

892021, www.trenitalia.it