Wanted in Rome - December 2016 by Wanted in Rome

DECEMBER 2016 â&#x201A;¬ 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 12

contents

titolo

no. 12 / december 2016 editorials

INTERVIEW WITH BRITISH AMBASSADOR TO ITALY Marco Venturini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 BEFORE THE NEXT EARTHQUAKE Mary Wilsey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 CLOUDS CLEAR FOR LA NUVOLA Margaret Stenhouse. . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 CHURCHES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 wanted in rome junior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 11 January and 1 February 2017. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 1 January (for 11 January) and 22 January (for 1 February). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Campo de’ Fiori - Edicola Pen and watercolor, 2016 Arch. Fabio Barilari, FBA www.fabiobarilari.com www.fabio-barilari.blogspot.com

Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 05/12/2016

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

32 December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

DIPLOMACY

Marco Venturini

INTERVIEW WITH BRITISH AMBASSADOR TO ITALY

Britain’s new ambassador to Italy Jill Morris speaks to Wanted in Rome Wanted in Rome. Ambassador, like British residents in Italy, even Italians are worried about Brexit. Would you like to talk about this and what, in your opinion, does the statement “We are leaving the European Union but we are not going to leave Europe” mean? Ambassador Morris. The first thing that I would like to say is that we recognise that the result of the referendum was not the one wished for by a lot of our Italian friends and colleagues. It’s important for us to acknowledge that there has been disappointment, sadness and some anger at the decision. At the same time I have found a real respect for the democratic process and I have also found a desire to be pragmatic about the way forward and that’s what makes me very optimistic. It’s in our interest to work together very closely. My government has always said that it wants to have the closest relationship possible with the European Union and with its members whilst being outside of the EU. Italy and the UK have a long-

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

HM Ambassador to Italy, Jill Morris CMG.

DIPLOMACY standing relationship. Trade is a big part of it but also political and security exchanges are crucial. The work we do together in the UN, in NATO and in the G20 and next year’s G7 are areas of fantastic collaboration to make the world a safer place. Furthermore the prime minister and the foreign secretary have often stated that “we are leaving the EU but we are not going to leave Europe” to underline how the EU is the regional organisation that brings together the member nations but Europe is a concept that is even bigger than the EU and we will of course be part of Europe because we could not be anything else. Wanted in Rome. Do you think Brexit is going to be the main subject of your time in office or do you think they are going to be other issues as well? Ambassador Morris. Clearly it’s going to be one big issue especially during Brexit negotiations. The way we work together will change but not what we work on. Negotiations are going to be a big focus, and potentially difficult, but I think we must all keep a positive vision and keep working together on main global issues. Wanted in Rome. You are Britain’s first woman ambassador to be appointed to Italy. Do you think that will make a difference? Ambassador Morris. I’m very proud and honoured to be the first woman British ambassador to Italy and San Marino. Let me say that I’ve discovered great woman colleagues here in Rome and also in the Italian political system. I think that diversity is really important, in any organisation. All research shows that organisations that are more diverse in terms of gender balance are the most successful ones. I would see my appointment as part of the wider programme that the Foreign Office is developing.

Britain’s Culture is Great campaign will include a number of events in Italy during 2017.

Wanted in Rome. 2016 was a very important year for British culture, with global Shakespeare celebrations. Will the British embassy be involved in promoting other major cultural events in 2017? Ambassador Morris. It was a big and important year for us globally, particularly between UK and Italy. We share so much culturally and there is going to be a big focus on what we admire and love about each other’s cultures. Watch this space because we are going to be announcing some “Culture is Great”

activities for next year, working with the British School in Rome, the British Council and great Italian institutions such as MAXXI. Wanted in Rome. We are here in your wonderful residence, Villa Wolkonsky. The wife of your predecessor undertook a great refurbishment of the gardens. Do you have any plans to open them to the public? Ambassador Morris. Nina Prentice did a magnificent job with the gardens, which is a wonderful asset for us. We are December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

DIPLOMACY

MAXXI president Giovanna Melandri with Ambassador Morris.

not planning to open the residence to the general public, however we are a very active embassy and when we have events in the residence we always try to organise tours of the gardens. Wanted in Rome. Recently Italy has been hit by a number of very strong earthquakes. The damage has been terrible. Does the UK government have any plans to support reconstruction efforts? Ambassador Morris. Let me first of all express our condolences from the very highest government levels. Messages from the Queen and from the prime minister have been transmitted to Italy. Coverage in Great Britain has been very intense. Immediately after Amatrice we offered advice and support in areas where we felt we might have some expertise but Italy of course is expert in these situations. All you have to do is look at the magnificent job done by the Protezione Civile and the Vigili del Fuoco to see that we have nothing to teach to Italy. Wanted in Rome. What is the purpose of the current survey you are promoting online among British expats? Is the survey being carried out only in Italy and is it being undertaken within a Brexit context?

Ambassador Morris. We traditionally have not had a systematic contact with British residents as they are very well integrated and they don’t need to register with us. We just thought that in the Brexit context that we would want to test if people wanted more communication with us, and what kind of communication. The survey* is not compulsory and it’s for us to gauge the market particularly when the negotiations start. Given Wanted in Rome’s readership I would want to underline my government’s clear statement that we would want to respect and protect the rights of Italians living and working in the UK. There is only one condition for that and that’s the right that UK nationals are respected in Italy. Wanted in Rome. Do you have any particular spot you like in Rome and is your very good Italian a result of a personal stay in Siena? If it is, do you prefer Tuscan or Roman dishes? Ambassador Morris. I started to study Italian in London and at the end of May I went to Siena to the Dante Alighieri School for six wonderful weeks. It’s a kind of tradition as my predecessor went there as well. I was also lucky enough to be introduced to the Palio. I must say the food in Tuscany is just incredible. I very much intend to explore every “angolo” of your “Belpaese”. Wherever you go in Italy you’ll find great food and traditions. In the last three months I’ve really loved walking around the Foro Romano area. It’s marvellous; you can really feel the

history of it. I also had a tour around MAXXI with President Melandri and I think it’s a wonderful space. I was also at Villa Medici, it’s spectacular, along with Galleria Doria Pamphilj which just makes you speechless. I also love the three Caravaggios that are in S. Luigi dei Francesi. They are just sublime. Trastevere is a really cool area and I’ve been going to many events of Romaeuropa in Testaccio, a really nice area. I’m delighted I have four years in which to explore. Wanted in Rome. Is there any message you would like to send to our readers? Ambassador Morris. On Brexit, the article 50 and the High Court ruling. The government is disappointed and therefore it is appealing the decision to the Supreme Court. The government remains determined to respect the will of the British people. The important thing now is to focus on forging a bold, ambitious, outward-looking future for the UK, and our global role.

Survey for British NATIONALS* The survey is online at www.smartsurvey.co.uk/s/QNBU6/ and includes questions about the amount of time you spend in Italy, your employment, how you learnt about living in Italy, how well you are integrated into Italian life, under what circumstances you feel the need to contact the British embassy and how would you do this, and what social media you use. The survey is very clear and takes at most five minutes to complete. It is online until 10 December and the embassy will use the data obtained to ensure that the information published on its website and social media channels is up-to-date, relevant and useful.

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

EARTHQUAKES

Mary Wilsey

BEFORE THE NEXT EARTHQUAKE Italy should educate the public about disaster preparedness before the next earthquake strikes

“I

didn’t know that Italy had earthquakes,” was a comment repeated often among foreigners in Italy and abroad soon after the earthquake that hit central Italy on 24 August this year. Didn’t know? How is it possible that they didn’t know? Perhaps they could be excused from not knowing that the northern Lazio town of Amatrice – one of the places worst affected by the quake – was hit by an earthquake on 7 October 1639 that killed 500 people. But that they didn’t know Italy was prime earthquake territory seems far fetched. In the last half century there has been one serious earthquake every decade, with many smaller ones in between, but hardly anyone can name them all. “I didn’t know that Italy had such frequent earthquakes,” was another remark heard soon after the quake that hit roughly the same area six weeks later on 26 and again on 30 October. After the 6.5 magnitude earthquake on 30 October nobody – whether living in Italy or abroad – could not now know that the Italian peninsula is one of the most earthquake-prone parts of the world. But why is it that so many school

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

Access along roads to Norcia in Umbria was difficult after the late October quake.

children the world over know about the dangers of the San Andreas Fault along the west coast of Canada and the United States, as well as about earthquakes in Japan, but so few know about the dangers of the Apennines? For a start the earthquake fault doesn’t even have a name that anyone can remember. And why does the general public know so little about it? For instance is it one fault or several? Is it connected to the other faults in north

and south Italy – those that caused the Belice earthquake in Sicily in 1968, the Friuli earthquake in 1976, the Irpinia earthquake in 1980 and the L’Aquila earthquake in 2009 – or is it separate and different? What are the cities and towns that are most at risk? Italy has an internationally renowned centre for the study of earthquakes and volcanoes, the Istituto Nazionale di Geofisica e Vulcanologia (INGV). It also has a very efficient civil

EARTHQUAKES protection system that goes into full swing once an earthquake hits. Nevertheless earth tremors in Italy still catch everyone unprepared. Why for example is the public perception of the country’s volcanoes – several of which are active and deadly – so much higher than that of its earthquakes? Is it because they are so visible, so seemingly picturesque and such tourist attractions (think of Vesuvius, Etna and Stromboli) while earthquakes are eerie, deep down and incomprehensible? Part of the reason may be that the understanding of earthquakes and what to do in one is still developing. Even the way to calculate their strength has changed in recent years. Once they were measured by the Richter or Mercalli scales, now they are measured by magnitude. This change, while more accurate, makes it difficult for the public to compare one earthquake with another. Then there is the question of what to do when the earth shakes. There are numerous theories and techniques that depend on whether you are inside or outside, whether or not buildings are seismic-proof. It should also be remembered that a bad tremor, which is reasonably common, is not the same as a bad earthquake. During the latter it is almost impossible to stand upright, to continue walking or driving or to get out of bed. In this situation the immediate standard procedure approved by the American Red Cross and the United Nations is Drop, Cover and Hold On, in other words drop to the ground, protect your neck and head with one arm and find cover under a table or a desk, hold on to it and move with it until the shaking stops. If indoors, position yourself near a load-bearing inside wall, not an exterior one, away from windows and large pieces of furniture. If you are in bed, stay where you are, holding a pillow over your head and neck.

Almost 300 people were killed in the Amatrice earthquake in August this year.

Do not move for more than about two metres at this stage because of the danger from flying objects. Contrary to intuition it is best not to make a dash outside as falling masonry is a major cause of injury and death. Even this basic knowledge is rare in Italy and ask anyone, even now after several months of earthquakes, what they should do and they will probably say they don’t know. Many don’t even know whether their dwelling is antiseismic. Should you make for the stairs and get out of the house as quickly as possible? Should you get under a table or

a desk? Once the shaking stops what should you do and where should you go? Is there a number you can call? What do you do if your children are at school, and how prepared are the schools with information for parents and children? What are the plans for accessing dangerous areas and for evacuation? Do mayors of the most atrisk towns and cities know what to do? Anyone living in the area of the San Andreas Fault or in Tokyo will know what they have to do when a “big one” hits. This is where nationwide public awareness campaigns play their part. Cities on the west coast of north Amer-

Reconstruction of L’Aquila is now in full swing after a slow start. December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

EARTHQUAKES ica and in Japan have their disaster websites with emergency information and in Japan 1 September is Disaster Prevention Day, to commemorate the 1923 Tokyo earthquake that killed over 100,000. So why not Italy? In other earthquake zones in the industrial world it is good practice to keep a disaster emergency kit* (one for each person living in the house) and one for all children at school. It should be equipped for 72hour survival on the assumption that even though the dwelling may still be standing, the usual services such as water, electricity, sewage, cash dispensers and telecommunications may not be functioning. Community centres are already designated in many north American and Japanese cities and everyone knows where these are. Families have plans about what they should do if an earthquake hits during the day, who will collect the children from school and where they will meet up again as soon as they can. It is possibly unfair to compare what could happen elsewhere with village and rural life in the Apennines, where some of the buildings date back to the 14th century, are made of stone or the local tufo and don’t have anti-seismic foundations. However a well-organised campaign to make people aware of what to do in the early phases of an earthquake would save lives and make evacuation easier. It wouldn’t take much for social media (the US, Canada and Japan have numerous examples), public broadcasting and schools to play their part. The prime minster, Matteo Renzi, has promised that everything in the villages affected by the 2016 disasters will be restored – private houses, churches and the economy – and Italy has in general a good track record of post-earthquake restoration. The reconstruction in the Friuli, VeneziaGiulia region is a model example, and

SIDE NOTES HALF A CENTURY OF EARTHQUAKES There have been seven earthquakes of over magnitude 6 in Italy in the last 50 years.

• • • Italy’s most dangerous seismic zones. INVG 2014.

closer to Rome the rebuilding of the small village of Tuscania, which was destroyed in 1971, is another case study. In Assisi parts of the Cimabue frescoes in the vault of the church of St Francis, that were shattered by the 1997 quake, were back in three years, and within five years 50 per cent of the 80,000 fragments of the Giotto frescoes over the door had been pieced together again. Reconstruction in L’Aquila has proved more difficult for a number of reasons. There were several cases of corruption early on, however the main difficulty has been that ownership in the centro storico was fragmented and difficult to identify, with some 56,000 dwellings and roughly the same number of owners. It was only once they had organised themselves into consortia of neighbouring properties, called aggregates, which were then given official legal status, that reconstruction was able to progress. Towns and cities are rebuilt despite people’s present pessimism. But disaster and survival preparedness, in the family, at school, in the work place, should become as urgent as plans for evacuation and restoration – before the next earthquake hits.

• • •

1976. Friuli, 6.5 magnitude, over 900 dead, over 1,700 injured. 1980. Irpinia/Naples, 6.9 magnitude, nearly 5,000 dead, over 7,000 injured. 1997. Assisi, 6.1 magnitude, 9 dead and none injured. 2009. L’Aquila, 6.3 magnitude, 309 dead, over 1,500 injured. 2016. 24 August. Amatrice, Accumoli and Arquata del Tronto, 6.0 magnitude, 298 dead, over 400 injured. 2016. 26 and 30 Oct. Norcia, 6.5 magnitude, no dead, 20 injured.

your Disaster emergency kit* It should contain water, dried food, a multi-purpose pen knife, a batteryoperated torch and radio, a thermal blanket, house and car keys, necessary medication, vital documents such as ID or passport and property deeds in the case of home ownership, a list of emergency contacts, a change of clothing, shoes and toiletries. Don’t count on smart phones as telecommunications could be down. The survival bag should be easy to grab at a moment’s notice, light enough to carry and updated once a year.

useful emergency awareness sites For more detailed information and in the absence of any similar Italian site see www.earthquakecountryorg. Italian sites include www.meteoweb.eu and www.protezionecivile.gov.it.

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

titolo ARCHITECTURE

Margaret Stenhouse

CLOUDS CLEAR FOR LA NUVOLA Rome finally has its futuristic new conference centre first designed by Italian architect Massimiliano Fuksas nearly 20 years ago

ometimes miracles do happen – even in a city as beleaguered and beset with problems as Rome today. After a seemingly endless series of delays and setbacks stretching back to 2007, when the first corner stone was laid, Massimiliano Fuksas’ revolutionary project for an international conference centre worthy of Italy’s capital city has finally emerged from its chrysalis. When Wanted in Rome spoke to the architect about the project in 2008, diggers were hard at work excavating the chosen site on Via Cristoforo Colombo near the EUR lake and completion was scheduled for the end of 2010. Fuksas was enthusiastic about his futuristic design. He said he had long dreamed of creating “a building that had no crystallised form at all….like a cloud being

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

blown by a strong wind – a membrane inside a glass box that would seem to expand and would shine luminous at night.” At that time, he had already spent seven years studying the project and drawn up over 6,500 preparatory drafts for the landmark building that he baptised – appropriately – the Nuvola or Cloud. During the years that followed, it looked as if La Nuvola was going to remain a dream and passersby became resigned to seeing a desolate wasteland of empty scaffolding occupying the site beyond the Marconi Obelisk in EUR. Construction stagnated as costs spiralled, bureaucratic hiccups prevailed and the original partners got embroiled in in-house squabbles. The planned completion date came and

went with only a skeleton to show. By this time, the Cloud was wallowing in debt and lagging far behind schedule. Finally, in 2013, a government loan, coupled with the sale of property belonging to EUR Spa, the main project partner, allowed work to begin again in earnest. This time, the objective was to inaugurate the new conference centre to coincide with Expo 2015 in Milan. Given the precedents, a mere year’s delay before the actual inauguration, on 29 October 2016, seems virtually marginal. EUR Spa, (90 per cent owned by the Italian ministry of finance and 10 per cent by the city of Rome) called in a super manager from Milan last year to speed things up. Enrico Pazzali, former managing director of Fiera Milano Spa (Milan Fair), joined the EUR Spa team

ARCHITECTURE in August 2015. Four months later, he became chief executive officer. He confesses he found that construction work was “far behind schedule”. Pazzali diplomatically glosses over the reasons for all the delays, attributing them to “mainly mismanagement.” He is enthusiastic about Fuksas’ innovative design and its potential: “Fuksas isn’t just a superstar, he has given Rome this great opportunity. Rome has enormous potential as a convention destination but up till now the city hasn’t had the possibility of hosting major events.” Fuksas’ dream now hangs suspended inside its enormous 40m-high glass showcase – an amorphous white form in fibreglass and silicone encased in a mesh of iron girders, only vaguely visible in daylight behind the reflection of the outside world on its wall of windows. La Nuvola itself, however, is only a minor part of the entire encasing structure, known as La Teca (the Container). The stairs into the main entrance lead down into a vast 9,000-sqm plenary hall that can accommodate 6,000 delegates. When fully in use, the structure will be divided into flexible modules of various sizes, as required. Energy conservation has also been an important element of the design. The Teca is roofed with solar panels and the entire building is equipped with a variable airflow conditioning system that protects the structure from overheating. An escalator connects to the mezzanine floor, or “Gallery”, with private office space for business meetings and facilities such as cloakrooms and a bar. Special Fuksas touches are reflected in the Guzzini lamps dangling from the ceiling (designed by the architect) and the various service wires, tubes and cables are deliberately left visible. The main attraction, however, is the mythical auditorium, La Nuvola itself, the “heart” of the building. The Cloud

EUR SpA CEO Enrico Pazzali. Photographs by Margaret Stenhouse.

can accommodate an additional 1,700 delegates in addition to the 6,000 or so in the lower hall. From close up under its belly, on the next floor up, it looks solid rather than diaphanous, cradled within its complex metal ribcage. The skin is smooth and taut to the touch and measures 15,000 sqm and is made of 700 individual pieces. However, there is nothing cloudlike about the interior. It’s a surprise to find the auditorium entirely lined with American red cherry wood panels. “This is necessary for the acoustics,” Pazzali explains, demonstrating that his voice carried clearly and effortlessly to the back of the room without the help of a microphone. “Sounds rebound from the wood and are projected throughout the entire hall.”

So far, EUR Spa has been cautious about promoting the new convention centre. Given its chequered history, this has perhaps been wise. Now that it is safely and satisfactorily completed, however, feelers are going out. “We are negotiating 15 events at the moment, but it takes two or three years for a major international convention to be organised. We expect business to start in earnest around 2020.” At the moment, the Nuvola (as Romans will no doubt continue to call it) has already secured its first major booking, beating Glasgow and Barcelona to host an international delegation of lawyers in 2018. However, the third arm of the project still has to be completed. That is the Lama (or Blade), the rather oddlynamed high-rise hotel of 441 rooms standing next door. Parking facilities – another essential feature – have already been taken care of, with underground space for 800 cars. Pazzali hopes eventually to have 160 events a year, which would generate revenue, not only for the centre, but for the entire city: “Until now Rome has only been able to organise small events due to the lack of suitable space. Rome is a very attractive venue and now we shall be able to compete with cities like London and Paris.”

The fibreglass and silicone “cloud” is suspended inside the 40m-high glass structure. December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ARCHITECTURE

SIDE NOTES Contemporary architecture in Rome Mary Wilsey With so much else to see, contemporary buildings in Rome are often overlooked. But a number of impressive new structures by world-known architects have been inaugurated in various parts of the city in the last three decades. All of them have caused controversy both before and during construction and have taken longer than anticipated to complete. Most of them have also run into funding difficulties. The Mosque in Parioli was designed by Paolo Portoghese. After much discussion with the Vatican about whether or not a mosque should be built in Rome, the first stone was laid in 1984 in the Acqua Acetosa area and it was inaugurated in 1995. It was founded by the late Afghan Prince Hasan, who was living in exile in Rome at the time, and financed by the Saudi royal family. It is also the centre of the Associazione Culturale Islamica in Italy. Viale della Moschea. The Auditorium Parco della Musica was designed by Renzo Piano. It was inaugurated in 2002 after decades of discussion and difficulties. An important ancient Roman farm complex was discovered soon after ground-breaking, which delayed work for several years while it was excavated. Parts of the remains were then incorporated into the new structure and they are visible under glass in the main foyer. Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. MACRO, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea di Roma. The city’s two contemporary art galleries were transformed

The Nuvola’s escalator connects to the mezzanine floor, or “Gallery”, designed for business meetings.

out of two decommissioned industrial buildings: the old Peroni beer factory in the Porta Pia area of Rome and the old slaughter house in Testaccio. Construction began in 1989, the first part was opened in 1999 and then officially inaugurated in 2002. French architect Odile Decq was commissioned to design an extension to the Porta Pia site, which was opened in 2010. Via Nizza 138 and Piazza Orazio Giustiniani, www.museomacro.org. Chiesa Dio Padre Misericordioso designed by Richard Meier in the Tor Tre Testa suburb. The church, which was meant to open as part of the millennium celebrations in Rome, ran into engineering difficulties thanks to the revolutionary design of the three curved structures, known as the sails, that are cleverly incorporated into the main body of the church. The first stone was laid in 1998 and the church was opened in 2003. Piazza Terzo Millennio 8, www.richardmeier.com. Ara Pacis. The new covering of the Altar of Peace, which dates back to 9 BC,

was designed by Richard Meier and inaugurated in 2006 after seven years’ work. The altar was dedicated to the goddess of peace on the return of the emperor Augustus to Rome after three years in Spain and Gaul. The design of its contemporary glass protective cover, which replaced the crumbling 1930s structure designed by Vittorio Morpurgo, was originally meant to be part of the remodelling of the whole square by Meier. However this never materialised because of fierce opposition from conservative politicians and art critics. Piazza Augusto Imperatore, which was pulled apart by Mussolini in the 1930s, is now a multi-layered mix of ancient Roman, baroque, fascist and contemporary styles. Piazza Augusto Imperatore, en.arapacis.it. MAXXI, the Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, was designed by Zaha Hadid, who won the international competition in 1999. It was constructed out of an unused military barracks in the Flaminio area and was inaugurated in 2010. Via Guido Reni 4, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Monitor

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com. PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net. Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

Artemisia Gentileschi exhibition at Palazzo Braschi. Judith slaying Holofernes.

and Self portrait as lute player. Museo di Roma a Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. PANOS TSAGARIS: LET THE SUN PROTEST 28 Nov-28 Jan The Marie-Laure Fleisch Gallery presents an exhibition of recent works by the Greek artist Panos Tsagaris. The 12 pieces on display include canvas and works on paper, inspired by contemporary society and drawing on themes such as spirituality, mystical tradition, the occult and alchemy. Galleria MarieLaure Fleisch, Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

exhibitions

Panos Tsagaris at Galleria Marie Laure Fleisch. Untitled.

ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI 30 Nov-8 May Major exhibition dedicated to the Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi (1593 – c.1656), today considered one of the most accomplished painters in the generation following that of Caravaggio. The exhibition spans from 1610 to 1652, examining Gentileschi’s career in Florence, Rome, Venice and finally Naples where she worked until her death. There are approximately 90 works on loan from around the world, with highlights including Judith slaying Holofernes, Esther and Ahasuerus,

Fausto Pirandello exhibition at Galleria Russo. Bagnanti nella luce.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

FAUSTO PIRANDELLO: OPERE DAL1923 Al 1973 19 Nov-14 Dec Galleria Russo presents 80 works by Roman painter Fausto Pirandello (1899-1975). Pirandello was attached to the Scuola Romana art movement, and was the son of Nobel laureate Luigi Pirandello. Highlights of the show include Pastori and Testa di bambola, displayed respectively at the Rome Quadriennale in 1935 and 1939, and Grandi bagnanti, shown at the Venice Biennale in 1962. Galleria Russo, Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.com. CARAVAGGIO E IL MAESTRO DI HARTFORD 16 Nov-19 Feb Exhibition examining the origins of Italian still lifes in a Roman context at the turn of the 17th century. The exhibition features still life works by the so-called Maestro di Hartford, a mysterious artist whose paintings – according to some theories – are rumoured to be the work of a young Caravaggio. The artist’s fictitious name stems from his best-known painting (Still life of Flowers and Fruit) at the Wadsworth Atheneum in Hartford, Connecticut. The exhibition features works by Caravaggio and the Maestro di Hartford alongside their peers. Piazzale del Museo Borghese, tel. 0632810, www.galleriaborghese.it/barberini/it/. ANTONIO LIGABUE 11 Nov-8 Jan The Vittoriano presents some 100 works by Swiss-Italian painter Antonio Ligabue (1899-1965), one of the most important Naïve artists of the 20th century. Highlights include oil paintings Carrozza con cavalli e paesaggio svizzero, Tavolo con vaso di fiori and Gorilla con donna. The exhibition also features sculptures, drawings and engravings. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere.

Sou Fujimoto Architects, House NA, Tokyo, Japan, 2011. Photo Iwan Baan.

EXHIBITIONS AT MAXXI

Sou Fujimoto Architects, House NA, Tokyo, Japan, 2011. Photo Iwan Baan.

L’ARTE DIFFERENTE: MOCAK AL MAXXI 7 Dec-22 Jan Exhibition featuring over 50 works from the MOCAK Museum of Contemporary Art in Kraków. Work by Polish artists such as Paweł Althamer, Zbigniew Libera and Wilhelm Sasnal are displayed alongside pieces by foreign artists that are part of the MOCAK collection. The Museum of Contemporary Art in Kraków has over 4,500 works of art by 235 artists from 32 countries. THE JAPANESE HOUSE: ARCHITECTURE & LIFE AFTER 1945 9 Nov-26 Feb Exhibition highlighting the importance of house design in Japan, showing the work of celebrated architects such as Kenzo Tange, Toyo Ito, Kazuyo Sejima and Shigeru Ban alongside their lesser-known contemporaries and a younger generation of Japanese architects. The exhibition presents the essential elements of the Japanese house, showcasing the convergence of tradition and innovation, and the architectural harmony between mankind and the environment. The exhibition is co-organised by the Japan Foundation, the Barbican Centre in London, and Tokyo’s Museum of Modern Art Tokyo. PREMIO MAXXI 30 Sept-29 Jan The 15th edition of the Premio MAXXI, an award created to nurture the development of young Italian art, features installations by four finalists: Riccardo Arena, Ludovica Carbotta, Adelita Husni-Bey and ZAPRUDER filmmakergroup. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

WHERE STREETS HAVE NO NAME 4 Nov-5 Jan The ILEX Gallery at 10b Photography Gallery displays more than 30 silver gelatine prints by the American street photographer Vivian Maier (19262009). The title of the exhibition is a reference to the U2 song Where the Streets Have No Name, which rails against a divisive society where a person’s life and achievements are determined by their street address. ILEX Gallery @ 10b Photography Gallery, Via S. Lorenzo da Brindisi 10b, tel. 0670306913, www.10bphotography. com.

GUERRE STELLARI: PLAY! 28 Oct-29 Jan Exhibition tracing the cinematographic history of the Star Wars universe and its characters which have captivated three generations of fans. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere. VAN GOGH ALIVE: THE EXPERIENCE 25 Oct-31 Dec Celebrated interactive exhibition providing a multi-sensory experience into the work of Vincent Van Gogh. The exhibition, which is described as a “vibrant symphony of light, colour and sound”,

takes place at Palazzo degli Esami in the Trastevere district. Via Girolamo Induno 4, www.vangoghroma.it. ARTURO DAZZI 1881-1966 ROMA, CARRARA, FORTE DEI MARMI 16 Oct-29 Jan Exhibition dedicated to the Italian painter and sculptor Arturo Dazzi, on the 50th anniversary of his death. The exhibition features around 65 paintings and sculptures, from public and private collections, dating mainly from between 1914 and 1935. Musei di Villa Torlonia, Casino dei Principi Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www.museivillatorlonia.it. December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Antonio Ligabue at the Vittoriano. Gorilla con donna.

ANTINOO: UN RITRATTO IN DUE PARTI 15 Sept-15 Jan This exhibition retraces the history behind the celebrated sculpture depicting Antinous, or Antinoo as he was called, the Bithynian Greek youth and lover of the Roman emperor Hadrian. The exhibition reconstructs the original sculpture of Antinoo, who was deified after his death, using fragments from the permanent collections of the Art Institute of Chicago and Palazzo Altemps. Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps, Piazza di S. Apollinare 8 (Piazza Navona).

STILL SHOWING ARTE E POLITICA: OPERE DALLA COLLEZIONE #4 21 Oct-10 May MACRO shows a series of works with political and social themes. The display spans from the 1930s, with the celebrated demolition paintings by Roman artist Mario Mafai, to more recent works examining contemporary sociopolitical events. Part of a cycle of exhibitions from the permanent collection of MACRO. Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. L’ARA COM’ERA 14 Oct-31 Oct 2017 The rich history and legends of Imperial

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

Rome will be displayed in an exhibition at the capital’s Ara Pacis, using 3D technology to revive the original colours of the museum’s altar to peace. Titled L’Ara Com’Era (The Ara as it was), the installation involves “augmented reality” scenes illuminating the first-century AD altar which was commissioned by Em-

peror Augustus to celebrate the peace he established throughout the Roman empire. The multimedia exhibition runs every Friday and Saturday night until 17 Dec, from 20.00 until midnight, with last entry at 23.00. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

GALLERIA NAZIONALE MUSEUM BEAUTY CONTEST 10 Oct-1 March The Galleria Nazionale is holding an online beauty contest from the categories based on 70 portraits in its collection: 35 women and 35 men. The competition involves the pre-selection of 18 portraits from each category until January, with the shortlisted candidates later vying for the Miss and Mister Galleria Nazionale crown. The public is invited to select the most beautiful portrait based on “physical appearance, demeanour and attitude, regardless of the style or the technical quality of the works.” The winner will be announced in March. TIME IS OUT OF JOINT The exhibition Time is Out of Joint (until 15 April) displays the completed refurbishment and reorganisation at the Galleria Nazionale which began in June under the new director Cristiana Collu. Taking its title from Shakespeare’s Hamlet, the exhibition explores the fluidity of the concept of time, displaying works of art from various centuries side by side, without regard to chronological order. It includes works by artists such as Giacomo Balla, Gustav Klimt, Lucio Fontana, Alberto Giacometti, Cristina Lucas, Adrian Paci, and Sophie Ristelhueber. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

EDWARD HOPPER 1 Oct-12 Feb The Vittoriano presents an exhibition dedicated to the celebrated American artist Edward Hopper (1882-1967) whose paintings provided anecdotal insights into the day-to-day banality of American culture. The show spans Hopper’s entire career, from early Parisian watercolours to later urban scenes of New York. The 60 works on display include South Carolina Morning (1955), Second Story Sunlight (1960), New York Interior (1921), Le Bistro (1909), and Summer Interior (1909). Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma. LOVE. L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA INCONTRA L’AMORE 29 Sept-19 Feb Rome’s Chiostro di Bramante celebrates its 20th anniversary with an exhibition dedicated to contemporary art and the multiple interpretations of the universally popular theme of love. The colourful show includes works by artists of the calibre of Yayoi Kusama, Tom Wesselmann, Andy Warhol, Robert Indiana, Gilbert & George, Francesco Vezzoli, and Tracey Emin. Organisers describe the exhibition as a “360° sensory experience”, granting visitors access throughout the museum with permission to photograph all the exhibited works, before sharing their images

Vivian Maier at ILEX Gallery. Chicago, IL, 16 August 1956.

via the official hashtag #chiostrolove. Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. GUSTAVO ACEVES: LAPIDARIUM 15 Sept-8 Jan 40 monumental sculptures by Mexican artist Gustav Aceves can be admired at outdoor archaeological sites in Rome including Trajan’s Markets, the Colos-

seum, the Roman Forum and the Arch of Constantine. The travelling public sculpture installation is dedicated to migration, and comprises fragmented or cracked statues of horses and human skulls, made from bronze, marble, wood, iron and granite. After Rome the exhibition will travel to Istanbul, Paris, Venice and Mexico. Trajan’s Markets, Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

Interactive exhibition Van Gogh Alive comes to Rome.

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

d’Arte di Roma returns to its historic venue, Palazzo delle Esposizioni. The Quadriennale, a major show to promote prevailing trends in contemporary Italian art, was first held in Rome in 1931 and the most recent edition took place in 2008. The show’s 11 curators have chosen 150 works by 100 artists, focusing on the development of Italian visual art since 2000, under the title Altri tempi, altri miti (Other times, other myths). Supported by the Italian culture ministry, the Quadriennale includes paintings, sculpture, video installations and photography, and is shown in 10 gallery spaces at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

Edward Hopper at the Vittoriano. South Carolina Morning.

PICASSO IMAGES 14 Oct-19 Feb An exhibition featuring almost 200 photographs accompanied by a significant selection of prints, sculptures and paintings from the Musée national Picasso-Paris, illustrates the professional and private life of Pablo Picasso. The exhibition is divided into various sections examining the artist’s relationship with photography to his use of the medium to cultivate his persona as both a legendary artist and celebrity. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

Love exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. Smoker by Tom Wesselmann.

16a QUADRIENNALE D’ARTE: ALTRI TEMPI, ALTRI MITI 13 Oct-8 Jan The 16th edition of the Quadriennale

JEAN ARP 30 Sept-15 Jan The Baths of Diocletian host a retrospective dedicated to Jean Arp (18871966), the important avant-garde German-French artist who was among the founders of the Dada movement, on the 50th anniversary of his death. The exhibition also features works by Arp’s wife Sophie Taeuber-Arp, highlighting an extraordinary 30-year artistic partnership. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 79, tel. 0639967700. PIACERE, ETTORE SCOLA 17 Sept-8 Jan Exhibition of memorabilia, correspondence, drawings and awards relating to the celebrated Italian screenwriter and film director Ettore Scola. The exhibition was organised before Scola died in Rome aged 84 at the beginning of this year. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it. 16a Quadriennale d’Arte at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Marcello Maloberti, Himalaya, 2012, performance; Photo Ela Bialkowska.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

INTERVIEW WITH MAUPAL Wanted in Rome put a series of questions to Roman artist Mauro Pallotta, better known as Maupal, about his Pope Francis murals which have generated headlines around the world. You recently created a mural in Rome’s Borgo Pio, near the Vatican, depicting Pope Francis playing noughts and crosses with peace symbols – following your Super-Pope mural in 2014 – are these works designed to promote a positive image of Francis in particular? Naturally, artistic representations of the Holy Father will receive special attention but my artistic research focuses on an approach that everyone can understand. I try to address socialpolitical-religious issues, also depicting other figures and often heads of state, political or religious. I’m not the artist who draws only the pope…but I think in this particular historical period, the whole of humanity must consider itself lucky for the fact that we have Pope Francis as pontiff, so for me he is a soggetto fatale! What was your reaction to the immediate cancellation by city authorities of your most recent Pope Francis mural? Such a sudden removal created discontent among both the curious (passers-by, tourists, religious, lay people) as well as the inhabitants of the Borgo district. The work was deemed “political” therefore the police decided to remove it immediately. To me the image was a clear message of peace, and peace cancels out politics. Were you surprised with the international headlines generated by your Pope Francis murals? Drawing the pope in public inevitably generates enormous attention, but also exposes you to a huge amount of risk. Creating something that is aesthetically pleasing, that allows you to give a clear message, that is not left open to ambiguous interpretations, that has no negative impact to the person concerned and is not judged as an endorsement but merely as a graphic summary of a widely-held thought – I assure you that is very difficult. Can you tell us about your meeting with Rome’s mayor following the removal of your Pope Francis mural? This is the second time I’ve been summoned to the city hall in the last two years. My first experience was with the Marino administration and now I have met with mayor Virginia Raggi and her culture councillor Luca Bergamo. The meeting was quite pleasant and constructive but I would like to be kept out of any political exploitation so I prefer to say nothing more on the subject. How long have you been a street artist? I have been painting on streets for less than three years. My first work was in January 2014, when I also drew Pope Francis, however I have worked as an artist for 20 years, exhibiting my works in galleries and museums. Do you also paint and illustrate, and do you focus on other themes aside from your celebrated Pope Francis imagery? I paint mostly portraits or faces of animals using a personal technique that I have experimented with over the years. I create faces by colouring with glazes and spray paint on canvas or wooden panels whose surfaces I prepare in advance using steel wool. In some ways it is a transition from painting to sculpture. Maupal with What do you think of your title in the media as “the Banksy of Italy”? I don’t like it very much and I think the comparison is exaggerated. Bansky has built up his reputation by creating magnificent and brilliant works for decades, I’m on the scene for only two and a half years. However it would be very satisfying if one day a young artist were to be hailed the “new Maupal”. Where in Rome can people see your work? I often work on paper which I then paste on to walls, so my works disappear quickly, although you can find something in Roman suburbs such as Quadraro, Pigneto or Primavalle. Andy Devane

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

Super-Pope.

CLASSICAL ROME There are often concerts and musical performances during the Christmas period in churches, museums and other public spaces which are announced too late for us to include in this pick of December music. Look out for notices about such events posted around the city. For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. Roma Sinfonietta, Teatro Italia, Via Bari 18, www.romasinfonietta.com.

Senza Sangue by Péter Eötvös (S. Cecilia 1-3 Dec) was premiered in 2015 in Cologne Germany.

autumn 2017. The pianists (from 20-30 years old) will play all of Beethoven’s piano sonatas over the two-year period, and each concert will also include a work by a contemporary Italian composer. On 18 Dec, in the last concert in the first part of the series, it is the turn of Gloria Campaner who will play Beethoven’s Tempest and the premiere of a work by Giovanni Sollima, composer and cellist. Sala Casella, Accademia Filarmonica Romana, www. filarmonicaromana.org. UN INFINITA PRIMAVERA ATTENDO 9 Dec A work of musical theatre to mark the centenary of the birth of murdered prime minister Aldo Moro who was executed by the terrorists of the Brigate Rosse in 1978. The work tells not just of his death but also of his political thinking and his importance to Italy, based on his speeches, letters and writings. The music is by Daniele Carnini and

played by the Roma Tre Orchestra conducted by Gabriele Bonolis. Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. IL PIANOFORTE NEL JAZZ 11 Dec-5 March The subtitle of this concert is Da Scott Joplin a Keith Jarrett. The first in this four-part series of talks and concerts is on 11 Dec on the theme Dal Ragtime di Texarkana al Jazz di New Orleans with Alberico Di Meo at the piano. This will be followed by two concerts in Feb, Harlem e i suoi pianisti on 5 Feb and I pianisti attraversano gli Oceani on 15 Feb and the final one, Il jazz di oggi e i suoi pianisti on 5 March. Sala Casella, Accademia Filarmonica Romana, www.filarmonicaromana.org. DEDICATED TO DEREK BERMEL 18 Dec This concert at Rome’s contemporary art museum MACRO on Via Nizza is

ACCADEMIA FILARMONIC ROMANA BEETHOVENKLAAVIER 9 Oct-18 Dec This adventurous new initiative by the Accademia Filarmonica is to encourage young Italian pianists and composers. It is divided into two parts, starting this autumn and finishing in

Gloria Campaner plays the last concert in the first part of Beethovenklaavier series by the Accademia Filharmonica Romana.

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ORATORIO DEL GONFALONE CONCERTO DI NATALE 15 Dec With the Orchestra Nuova Klassica conducted by Carlo Stoppoloni and Domenico Nordio violin, playing music by Paisiello, Mozart and Corelli. Oratorio del Gonfalone. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. ROMA SINFONIETTA BASS GANG 7 Dec This double bass quartet performs works from classical music to the classics of rock. Università Roma Tre, Auditorium Ennio Morricone Tor Vergata www.romasinfonietta.com.

Derek Bremel plays at MACRO, Via Nizza.

dedicated to composer and clarinetist Derek Bermel in collaboration with the contemporary music association Nuova Consonanza. The concert includes a piece by Bremel for strings and a clarinet called A Short History of the Universe which seeks to convey space-time concepts, gravity, expansion, contraction and infinity in music. MACRO, Via Nizza 138. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA PÉTER EÖTVÖS 1-3 Dec The Hungarian composer and conductor Péter Eötvös leads the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus in the performance of his work Senza Sangue about wartime violence inspired by the book of the same name by Alessandro Baricco. He also conducts a little known piece by Liszt called Dalla Culla alla Tomba and the adagio from Mahler’s unfinished 10th symphony. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. MAHLER’S 2ND SYMPHONY 8-10 Dec Daniel Harding conducts Mahler’s Resurrection symphony in memory of Claudio Abbado, with the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia and the soloists Anna Lucia Richter, Anna Larsson and Ciro Visco. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it. THE BERLINER PHILHARMONIC WIND INSTRUMENTS 11 Dec This is a charity performance for the Fondazione Marussa Onlus which helps children and old people afflicted

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

by chronic and incurable illnesses. The music is by Beethoven and Mozart. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. PAPPANO CONDUCTS JANINE JANSEN 15-17 Dec Sir Antonio Pappano, artistic director of the Accademia di S. Cecilia conducts violinist Janine Jansen performing music by Ravel, Bernstein, and Sibelius. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI WINTERREISE 3 Dec Schubert’s Winterreise with Christoph Prégardien tenor and Michael Gees piano. Prégardien, a German lyric tenor, is known for his performances in Mozart operas, Bach oratorios and for his concerts of lieder and baroque music. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. BLUE MOCHA FEAT 13 Dec The influence of jazz on swing, bop and free music by the 1960s generation of New York musicians. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www. concertiiuc.it. ZEFIRO BAROQUE ORCHESTRA 17 Dec The Zafiro Baroque Orchestra conducted by oboist Alfredo Bernardini plays Bach overtures and music from his Christmas Oratorio. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www. concertiiuc.it.

I GIOCOSI DI TRIESTE 14 Dec I Giocosi di Trieste choir sings works from Bach to Gianna Nannini. Università Roma Tre, Auditorium Ennio Morricone Tor Vergata, www.romasinfonietta.com. ORCHESTRA ROMA SINFONICA ROMA TRE 21-22 Dec Marc-Antoine Charpentier’s Te Deum and Camile Saint-Saëns Christmas Oratorio performed by the Roma Tre orchestra and chorus. Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ CONCERTO DI NATALE 10 Dec At the time of going of press the lineup for Concerto di Natale, the Vatican’s annual charity Christmas concert at the Auditorium Conciliazione, was not available. However organisers promise that the 25th edition of the event will feature “at least a dozen internationally renowned soloists, including a symphonic choir, a children’s choir and a Gospel choir from the United States.” Described as a “festival of peace, harmony, welcome and goodwill”, the annual event always features a mix of musical genres, including pop, rap, rock, gospel, jazz, opera, soul and Christmas carols. For 2016 concert details see website. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4 tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

Andre De La Roche in Mario Piazza’s choreography of Lo Schiacchianoci at Teatro Quirino.

dance MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ROMEO E GIULIETTA By TCHAIKOVSKY 20 Dec -19 Jan This is the well-tried Kenneth Macmillan choreography which has been an old favourite at La Scala fro many years. The dancers are Roberto Bolle and Misty Copeland, from the American Theatre Ballet who is making her debut at La Scala. There is a gala performance on 31 December with Alessandra Ferri and Herman Cornejo, principal dancer at the American Ballet Theatre, also making his debut at La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

TEATRO QUIRINO BALLETTO DI ROMA LO SCHIACCHIANOCI 22-23 Dec The third appointment in the Balletto di Roma season in the capital is this Christmas classic with the choreography by Mario Piazza and the guest performance of André De La Roche. Piazza gives the work, which he created for the Balletto di Roma in 2006, a modern psychological interpretation with dark undertones. As usual De La Roche takes the dual part of the Nutcracker and the Sugar Plum Fairy. Teatro Quirinio, Via Marco Minghetti, www.teatroquirino.it.

festivals IL PIPISTRELLO BY J. STRAUSS 31 Dec-8 Jan Friedemann Vogel, principal dancer of the Stuttgart Ballet, makes his debut in Roland Petit’s choreography of Il Pipistrello (Die Fledermaus) with Maria Yakovleva (principal dancer of the Vienna State Opera) as the guest stars in this production from La Scala, with the Teatro dell’Opera ballet corps. Vogel, who is also the principal guest artist with the St Petersburg Mikhailovsky theatre and one of the most sought-after classical dancers of the moment, then goes on to Paris with the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

ROMA GOSPEL FESTIVAL 22-31 Dec Billed as the most important festival of its genre in Europe, the Roma Gospel Festival celebrates its 21st anniversary this year. The festival features numerous choirs, many from the US such as The Mount Unity Choir, featuring Earl Bynum (22, 23 Dec), the Harlem Gospel Choir (25, 26, 27 Dec), Robin Brown Atlanta Gospel Choir (28, 29, 30 Dec), ending on 31 Dec with James Hall & Worship & Praise. For full programme see website. Auditorium Parco Della Musica, Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www.auditorium.com.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA THE NUTCRACKER 18-24 Dec This is a repeat of the ballet that marked the beginning of the new artistic direction of the opera’s ballet academy by Eleonora Abbagnato last year. Altough it is a traditional Christmas work Abbagnato considers it a fundamental piece of the classical repertoire both for dancers but also for the audience. The new choreography by Giuliano Peparini – who not only has television exprience but also a strong classical background with Roland Petit – clocked up record audiences last year. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

Harlem Gospel Choir for Roma Gospel Festival.

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

The annual Piú libri piú liberi book publishing fair at Palazzo dei Congressi.

PIÙ LIBRI PIÙ LIBERI 7-11 Dec The 15th edition of the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses offers a five-day literary programme of conferences, lectures, readings, theatre workshops, performances and presentations. Backed by the culture ministry, the annual event was founded in 2002 by Italy’s small publishers’ association to give smaller publishing houses much needed visibility. Palazzo dei Congressi, Piazzale Kennedy, EUR, www.piulibripiuliberi.it. FOTOGRAFIA: FESTIVAL INTERNAZIONALE DI ROMA 21 Oct-8 Jan FOTOGRAFIA, the Rome International Photography Festival, showcases the work of new artists and promotes contemporary photography in its various forms and languages. This year the 15th edition of the festival is dedicated to Roma, il mondo, examining the important and long-established role that Rome plays on the world stage and, closer to home, with the capital’s foreign cultural institutes. The Roman theme was chosen to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the publication of the first volume of Goethe’s Italian Journey, and central to this year’s festival is its customary collaboration with the city’s principal foreign academies including the American Academy in Rome, the German Academy at Villa Massimo and the French Academy at Villa Medici. MACRO, Sala Enel, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

academies BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 9-17 Dec The annual December Mostra is an exhibition featuring works by current Fine Arts award-holders at the BSR. Exhibition opens 9 Dec, 18.30-21.00, and can be visited Mon-Sat 16.30-19.00. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 14 Oct-15 Jan To celebrate its 350th anniversary the

French Academy in Rome – Villa Medici presents the exhibition 350 Years of Creativity: The Artists of the French Academy in Rome from Louis XIV to the Present. The exhibition highlights the creative output of the academy’s artists, from residents to directors, during their time in Rome. It includes over 100 works dating from 1666 to the present day, by artists such as Fragonard, David, Ingres, Berlioz, Garnier, Carpeaux, Debussy and Balthus. The exhibition comprises paintings, drawings, statues, prints, musical scores and archive material, ending with a video of works created by residents in recent decades. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

Le Bambole del Giappone exhibition at the Japanese Cultural Institute.

HUNGARIAN ACADEMY OF ROME 25 Nov-13 Jan The exhibition Oltre Roma features work by artists from Hungary, Italy, Germany, Denmark and Poland. Hungarian Academy of Rome, Palazzo Falconieri, Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma. balassiintezet.hu/it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 4 Oct-28 Dec Le bambole del Giappone: forme di preghiera, espressioni d’amore. This travelling exhibition, whose title translates as Dolls of Japan: Forms of Prayer, Expressions of Love, comprises a range of dolls, from ancestral folklore and the ancient performing arts, to modern variations of the children’s toy. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it.

theatre TEATRO VITTORIA 20 Dec-8 Jan Weekend Comedy written by Chicago’s Sam and Jeanne Bobrick, translated by Enrico Luttman. The story revolves around two couples, of different ages and backgrounds, who end up renting the same remote one-bedroom chalet by mistake, and how the four wildly different personalities interact during Lehman Trilogy at Teatro India.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

48 hours in close confinement. In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it. TEATRO INDIA 25 Nov-18 Dec Teatro India presents Lehman Trilogy, the hugely successful play telling the story of the Lehmans, from their arrival in New York in the mid-1800s to the crash of Lehman Brothers in 2008. Previously performed at the Teatro Piccolo in Milan, the play was written by Stefano Massini and was the last to be directed by the legendary Luca Ronconi, who died in 2015. In Italian. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.teatrodiroma.net.

opera MILAN MADAME BUTTERFLY BY PUCCINI 10 Dec-8 Jan The fashionable first night of the new La Scala season is on 7 Dec but for the general public Puccini’s Madame Butterfly opens on 10 Dec. La Scala’s principal conductor Riccardo Chailly conducts Puccini’s masterpiece in its original version, which was fiercely contested when it was first produced

at Milan’s opera theatre in 1904. The director is Alvis Hermanis whose two previous productions at La Scala of Die Soldaten and I due Foscari were highly successful. Uruguay soprano Maria José Siri, who has already sung in Bologna, Turin, Naples, Verona and Macerata this year, takes the role of Cio-Cio San. Bryan Hymel sings the part of Pinkerton. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. DON CARLO BY VERDI 17 Jan-12 Feb This is the first time in the last 40 years that the Verdi opera will be performed in its original five-act version, first performed in Paris in 1867. Claudio Abbado was the last to include the Fontainebleu Act in the opera at a La Scala performance back in 1977. Here Myung-Whun Chung, one of the world’s most experienced Verdi conductors, returns to the original, directed by Peter Stein in a production for the Salzburg Festival, which was conducted there by Antonio Pappano with the tenor Jonas Kaufmann. In Milan the top-notch cast includes Ferruccio Furlanetto, Krassimira Stoyanova, Ekaterina Semenchuk and Francesco Meli, one of the best Verdi tenors of the moment. The Financial Times critic was not impressed by the 2013 Salzburg production, maintaining that Stein “had outdone himself in cringe-inducing dullness.” Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

Maria José Siri debuts in Puccini’s Madame Butterfly which opens the new La Scala season in Milan on 7 Dec. Photo Carlo Bistolfi.

Opera Notes Milan. Madame Butterfly La Scala di Milano apre la “nuova” Stagione d’Opera e Balletto con Madama Butterfly di Giacomo Puccini (7 dicembre – 8 gennaio). Sarà proposta nella prima versione, che fu duramente contestata proprio alla Scala il 17 febbraio 1904. Si parlò d’un fiasco organizzato dai nemici del compositore, ma più probabilmente l’opera non piacque perché il linguaggio musicale, nonostante non si discostasse troppo dalle opere precedenti (La bohème e Tosca), era troppo innovativo, soprattutto nell’orchestrazione che citava espressamente le “orientali” musiche del Giappone, inusuali per un ascoltatore dell’occidente europeo. Dopo una minuziosa e in alcuni punti radicale revisione, Madama Butterfly fu “accettata” ed ebbe la sua rivincita con un successo clamoroso al Teatro Grande di Brescia tre mesi dopo, il 28 maggio 1904. Tuttavia Puccini continuò a rivedere e a ritoccare negli anni successivi la partitura, per giungere alla revisione definitiva (data nel 1907 al Metropolitan di New York) che consacrò Madama Butterfly come una delle opere più belle e più amate dal pubblico del compositore lucchese, facendola entrare nel grande repertorio senza mai più uscirvi. L’attuale riproposta ha per protagonista il soprano Maria José Siri (una promessa del teatro internazionale) attorniata dal tenore Bryan Hymel, dal mezzosoprano Annalisa Stroppa e dal baritono Carlos Álvarez. Sul podio il direttore principale della Scala: Riccardo Chailly. La regia è di Alvis Hermanis, già conosciuto dal pubblico scaligero per Die Soldaten di Zimmermann (2015) e I due Foscari di Verdi (2016). Rome. Tristan und Isolde è al nastro di partenza la stagione 2016/17 del Teatro dell’Opera di Roma con Tristan und Isolde di Richard Wagner (27 novembre – 11 dicembre). Sul podio un direttore di prestigio: Daniele Gatti che vanta la presenza per ben tre stagioni nel golfo mistico del Teatro di Bayreuth e per avervi eseguito Parsifal, l’opera scritta apposta per essere rappresentata in quello che è considerato (e voluto dal compositore stesso) il tempio della musica wagneriana “dell’avvenire”. La regia sarà affidata a Pierre Audi, che nel 2009 presentò sempre a Roma un affascinante quanto provocatorio allestimento di Pélleas et Mélisande di Claude Debussy. Il cast interamente straniero vede nei ruoli del titolo Andreas Schager e Rachel Nicholls, in quelli dei confidenti dei protagonisti Brett Polegato e Michelle Breedt e nella parte del tradito zio di Tristan nonché consorte di Isolde John Relyea. é colto e significativo che il Teatro dell’Opera presenti Tristan und Isolde (finito di comporre nel 1859) subito dopo Un ballo in maschera di Verdi (che fu rappresentato ugualmente nel 1859). Opere accomunate dall’essere due travolgenti quanto impossibili storie d’amore, entrambe poste al vertice della maturità artistica degli autori. Tristan und Isolde con il suo cromatismo spinto alle estreme conseguenze è considerato il culmine e nello stesso tempo il declino del romanticismo ottocentesco, ma pure l’inizio della “moderna” musica atonale del Novecento. Paolo Di Nicola

ROME TRISTAN UND ISOLDE BY WAGNER 27 Nov-11 Dec Wagner’s opera is conducted by Daniele Gatti, who has just taken over as the new musical director of Amsterdam’s Royal Concertgebouw, one of the world’s top symphony orchestras. It is directed by Pierre Audi with Andreas Schager as Tristano and Rachel Nicholls as Isolde. It is a new co-production with the Paris Champs-Elysees Theatre and the Amsterdam National Opera. Gatti had good critiques when the same production was first staged in Paris in May this year. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it. RIGOLETTO BY VERDI 2-10 Dec There are just three performances of Rigoletto, conducted by Michele Gamba and directed by Leo Muscato, who debuted with this opera back in 2014 at the Teatro dell’Opera, immediately after Riccardo Muti handed in his resignation. The production has been described as being gloomy but effective and an example of what could be done with limited resources. The part of Rigoletto is sung by Italian baritone Luca Salsi and tenor Piero Pretti as the Duca di Mantua. The American Cuban soprano, Lisette Orapesa, is making her debut in the part of Gilda. She has been described by the New York Times as having a magnetic stage presence. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

British soprano Rachel Nicholls sings Isolde in Tristan und Isolde which opens the Rome opera season.

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

CHURCHES CHRISTMAS CHURCH SERVICES Each year there are a number of English language religious services in churches in Rome over Christmas. For the Pope’s programme see the Vatican calendar of religious celebrations, www.vatican.va.

24 Dec. Mass at 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30. S. Susanna Church (Roman Catholic) Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554. Due to the temporary closure of S. Susanna Church, this year’s Christmas Masses and events take place at the nearby Basilica di S. Camillo de Lellis. 24 Dec. Christmas Concert and Carol-

All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881. 24 Dec. Crib Service for children 17.00, Midnight Mass 23.30. 25 Dec. Said Eucharist 08.30; Sung Eucharist 10.30. Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. 11 Dec. Advent and Carol Service, 17.00. Rome Baptist Church S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652-066876211. 11 Dec. Christmas music programme. 10.30. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 19.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Service, 10.30. St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 18.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Service, 11.00. St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via della Caravita 7. 24 Dec. Christmas Vigil Mass, with carol service, 18.30. St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121. 25 Dec. Mass in English, 10.00. St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 24 Dec. Musical prelude, 22.30. First Eucharist of Christmas, 23.00. 25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas, 10.30. S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359. 24 Dec. Midnight Mass in English 21.00. 25 Dec. Mass in English 10.00. S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

St Francis Xavier del Caravita

ling, 19.05, followed by Vigil Mass at 19.30, with choir, at Basilica di S. Camillo de Lellis, Via Piemonte and Via Sallustiana. 25 Dec. Christmas Mass with full choir, Basilica di S. Camillo de Lellis, 10.00.

Wanted in Rome wishes all its readers a very happy Christmas season.

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Eternal footprints from Romulus’ huts to today’s sneakers: St Stephen’s firsthand experience in the preservation of Rome’s cultural heritage at the Palatine excavations James Hua, aged 17, St Stephen’s School in Rome. Scraping. Gathering the sediment together. Divining as an oracle. Oozing, squishing through the mud. Scraping. Gathering the sediment – crunch. A low, rich dong sounded from the shovel the archaeologist was using. Glides the mud from the artefact, and what shines beneath was mud compared to the radiance that burst from the archaeologist’s face. The La Sapienza University’s excavations between the northeast of the Palatine hill and the valley of the Colosseum is most remarkable in the modern generation’s role and influence. It is the down-to-earth students of archaeology who enthusiastically excavate the site today, not some wildly illusionary professor like Schliemann. This change has brought about its own techniques and skills to all facets of the excavation. The students light-heartedly joked about the first-ever example of Roman painting actually found in Rome (a black-haired youth on a bowl’s inside).

We are just among all those in the waves of history that the Palatine has seen, coming and going, each nicking a vase or two, and leaving. I felt at a loss. What are we to it? What can we do to leave a positive impact? Imagine what it must be like for the scorned Curiae Veteres. Sure, it had its petty rivalries with the Domus Aurea, but in the end they suffered the same neglect by selfdeceptive, greedy “tourists”. The forum breathed down its rustic winds, and it was silent. The answer was right in front of me. Appreciating our shared cultural heritage is feeling the awe that right underneath our feet, as we rush to the metro or relax with our coffee, lie some of the most antique, significant remains of Roma Antiqua. Our cultural heritage, the priceless tangible remains and intangible traditions of the past that have made us who we are today, at the Palatine, have spanned the whole history

of Rome. In our blood we do have the eloquence of Cicero, in our soul we do have the warlike impulses of Romulus. Just as the hopes of Rome always lay in its youth, so does it with ours today. The students inserted one or two cheeky anecdotes while they talked with the serious visages of sagacious archaeologists. They let you try it out. They want to make archaeology for everyone, everyone to feel a connection with the ancient world. It is no longer a special group’s snobbery: it is our history. By rekindling the love for our cultural heritage in the people of today, we can constantly bring together more innovative, efficient ways to touch and document the walls of the emperors. We can complement the “next-generation materials and technologies” that we students are so apt in, with the traditional, experienced methodology, to allow us to cross our “bridge” with the past. This is the time to revitalise the

The fourth-century AD spa must have looked just like what modern tourists do in Rome at the heat of summer; the fascinating shifts in the stratigraphy from mediaeval times to Julius Caesar must be just like what future generations will be shocked by when they see the potholes in Rome’s roads (over its ancient roads, too). At the very heart of the ancient and modern city, it was a bustling place where activity never ceased, and never would. We can connect with it. It made me stop for a while and listen to the adagio of the excavator’s tool.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

James Hua (on far right of picture) with his St Stephen’s classmates at the Palatine excavations.

St Stephen’s students have visited the ongoing excavations on the Palatine Hill thanks to LoveItaly!’s Young Ambassadors Programme.

Classics and apply our ever-expanding technology for discoveries and paradigm shifts. With each new step, we can connect with our prisca gens mortalium, our ancestors, and doing so, discover ourselves. Alas; how to leave our mark? There is now more awareness and there are more opportunities for preservation than at any other time in our history. Crowdfunding and private sponsorship are permeating the universities and institutes of Rome, promoting the preservation of remains for future generations. As the government’s treasuries dry up, Rome’s historical sites can no longer rely on funds and equipment. It’s a very real threat to our understanding of who we are. Yet we can all get involved in private funding such as through LoveItaly!, which sponsors the Palatine excavations. When Tod’s funded the restoration for the Colosseum, Fendi the Trevi Fountain and Bulgari the Spanish Steps, St Stephen’s School fundraised for the Palatine excavations in a mock-chariot race at the Circus Maximus on 30 September. It was calculatingly perfect to unveil the mystic hues of Rome: using our Aventine environ, we raced along the spina three times in a relay race. The palatium of the patricians and emperors soared to our right, the council of the plebeians and foreigners to our left, and in the middle, we, the unifying link between Ancient Rome and Rome to-

day, vied for glory. It brings both a spirit of unification and service; it magnifies our gratitude to life and the fascinating interconnection of history. These possibilities are the building blocks for the foundations of our future: education. Preservation is more than ever à la mode in archaeology. At the British School at Rome, the Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI) presented crowdfunding schemes on sites ancient and modern: the Villa Gregoriana, the Parco Archeologico di Ostia, by professors from Cambridge to Rome. It is vital that we educate the future generation about not only the essentiality of our history, but also the importance of preserving it so that all can enjoy it. St Stephen’s current project is a poetryslam-meta-symposium, showcasing our creativity, diversity, and love for diversity. This time, it’s a stone’s throw from the Palatine to the Esquiline, where Virgil and Horace once recited, preserved and reinvented Greek literature in the gardens of Maecenas. It is as exciting as it is hopeful. The past is undoubtedly the future. As I gazed from the hoary sanctuary of the founder of Rome, to its great refounder’s birthplace, I could sense the triad. I quickly gazed down, and saw that my feet had left a dirty patch on an opus spicatum floor. Smiling, I crouched down and cleaned it up. St Stephen’s School, Via Aventina 3, www.sssrome.it.

Through LoveItaly!’s Young Ambassadors Programme some classes at St Stephen’s (Art History, Roman Topography and Latin) have had the opportunity to visit the ongoing excavations on the north-east corner of the Palatine Hill. LoveItaly! is a non-profit initiative dedicated to the preservation, promotion and appreciation of Italy’s unique cultural heritage. See website for details, www.loveitaly.org.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town AMAZING MONTEVERDE STUDIO WITH TERRACE. Amazing studio in Monteverde, Viale di Villa Pamphili 50 sqm, fully renovated, 4th floor with terrace, lift, bright, quiet, furnished, living room with pullout bed, eat-in kitchen, bathroom with shower. TV, WiFi Internet, air conditioning, heating, dish washer, washing machine. Alessandro 392 / 4730997.alessandrodn-monteverde@yahoo.com.

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

APARTMENT FOR RENTAL. Fully furnished apartment available two minutes away from Piazza di Spagna. Located in Via Del Corso, windows facing in inner courtyard, quiet, two bathrooms, one bedroom and one living room with kitchenette. Short medium and long stays.Long contracts only with ”cedolare secca”and fideiussione. admin@relaisrome.com. ATELIER FLAT TO RENT. Fully furnished apartment, five minutes away from Metro Station Furio Camillo, 1 bus away from FAO, windows facing in inner courtyard, quiet, two bathrooms, two bedroom and one living room with kitchenette. 2/3 floor with lift, new building. Long stays. 3 month deposit. Info luisadelcampo@ hotmail.com. COSY APARTMENT PIAZZA EPIRO S. GIOVANNI. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished & equipped renovated, living room, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12 mins walk from Colosseum.

€1.500 month. Other pics available. airleas.rome@gmail.com. DOUBLE ROOM IN PIAZZA BOLOGNA. 20 sqm double room €450 sixth floor (top floor) panoramic view refurbished for female students or workers, expenses included. lorenzocoretti@gmail.com. STANZA 20 metri quadrati doppia ad uso singola Piazza Bologna €450 mensili sesto ed ultimo piano assolato e panoramico 500 metri da università appartamento ristrutturato studentesse fuori sede/ lavoratrici no matricole spese incluse. lorenzocoretti@gmail.com. ELEGANT VILLA FOR RENT IN INFERNETTO. Villa for rent near shopping services, bus connections and Southlands School. On three levels, partially furnished, 2 living rooms, dining room, studio, eat-in furnished kitchen, 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, furnished laundry room, large outdoor spaces, big backyard garden and carport. Equipped with security door, railings, alarm system, video intercom, air conditioning, central heating, automatic irrigation system. Tel. 347 / 3626819. francesca.casotto@libero.it. EUR SERAFICO. Quiet furnished apartment near Metro. Two entrances, living room, 2 bedrooms, 1 small bedroom with bunk bed, two bathrooms, two large terraces, covered parking, porter, A/C, canteen. Tel. +39 348 / 7206333 or +39 328 / 3644171. mattonepingue@libero.it or pinguesenior@alice.it. MANZONI AREA. Furnished studio: For single person €480 monthly minimum 6 months. Email: dellascala4@ gmail.com. NUOVO SALARIO - VIA SALARIA / VIA NOMENTANA NEIGHBORHOOD. Elegant, bright and fine fur-

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December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

nished. Composed living and dining room, 2 double bedrooms, equipped kitchen, 2 baths (equipped with shower, sauna and Jacuzzi), 3 balconies, garage. Elegante, luminoso, ammobiliato, termoautonomo, impianto allarme, cassetta sicurezza, composto da: soggiorno/salotto, cucina abitabile, 2 camere doppia/matrim., 2 bagni (con vasca idromassaggio e con doccia e sauna), 3 balconi, posto auto in garage condominiale. federico. fusano@gmail.com. PIAZZA NAVONA 50 METRES. Nice apartment on second floor. Completely refurbished and furnished. 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom. living room, live in kitchen, Wi-Fi, autonomous heating. A/C. Also short lets. Perfect for couples. beatricemedi@hotmail. com. TO RENT IN VIA MERULANA. To rent with contract. Apartment completely refurbished and furnished in Via Merulana. 60 sqm. Living room, bedroom, bathroom, kitchen. Ideal for single or couple. Fifth floor with elevator. A/C. Available as from 1 November. dorapaolo@yahoo.it or tel. 3333802250. TRASTEVERE - ORTI D’ALIBERT. Lovely, comfortable, mini apartment, fully furnished. Reference required. €800 month. Tel. 065803195, mobile 333 /4930662 (whatsapp). VATICAN AREA. 2nd floor apartment with lift. Sitting room, bedroom, up to 4 people, kitchen, bathroom, storage, balcony, wifi. Fully furnished and equipped. Contact star@libero.it, tel. 368 / 7734126, 338 / 9124948.

Accommodation vacant out of town MEDIAEVAL TOWER - SUTRI. Sutri centre, 50 km Rome, good bus link: beautifully restored, furnished mediaeval tower, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, study, terrace 160 sqm, perfect condition. judyharris123@ gmail.com. TIVOLI - MANDELA. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

Jobs vacant ADJUNCT PROFESSOR WANTED IN ROME. Opening for adjunct professor in Master of Laws (LL.M.) program in rule of law for development. Loyola University Chicago School of Law. Delivered at Loyola’s John Felice Rome Center. Course on design of rule of law projects and programs. Spring semester 2017. Possibility of annual appointment. Course already prepared.Qualifications required: Substantial experience in project design, proposal preparation and implementation of internationally financed rule of law projects. Advanced degree, preferably in law. Substantial field experience. Fluent English. Send CV to prolaw@luc.edu by 31 October 2016. https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=Q1iF1FWYOKs. COLOSSEUM TOUR PROMOTERS. Tour Operator seeks energetic, self-motivated promoters to sell Colosseum guided tours outside the monument. Commissions on sales job with potential for great earnings. Experience in sales and native English speakers preferred. Please call Magdalena at + 39 324 / 7492725. 14.0021.00. palbriz@hotmail.com. ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE BABY SITTER. English mothertongue baby sitter required

to converse/play 2 afternoons per week with an 11 year old girl. Driver’s license required. Contact claudio. peroni1@gmail.com. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. Full time English Language Teachers for our schools in Rome. Candidates must be native speakers and have: a degree, teaching experience, relevant teaching certification. Positions starting from November. info@englishscool.it. ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING QUALIFIED ENGLISH TEACHERS. Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for young children and adult courses for immediate start. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to job@angloamerican.it. ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIRED IN ROME - IMMEDIATE START. Berlitz Italy is among the world leaders in the field of language learning services. We are currently seeking English Language Instructors available immediately. Candidates must be native speakers and have a degree, preferably with some teaching experience or teaching certification. Relevant working papers or visa a must! Would

you like to work in a dynamic, international environment? Then this is the job for you!Interested? Please contact Ennio Recchioni at: workinrome@ berlitz.it or ennio.recchioni@berlitz.it. LANGUAGE AND LITERACY INSTRUCTOR. US University seeks a Language and Literacy Instructor for the Fall 2017 term in Florence, Italy. Min. criteria: Master’s Degree in Education; 3 years teaching literacy in upper elementary grades, knowledge of current evidence based practices in reading and writing instruction, ESL pedagogy; experience providing professional development and/or college level teaching in Education. Fluency in oral and written English. Collaborative, intercultural communication skills. To apply: florenceoffice@ fairfield.it. LONG TERM SUB FOR SECONDARY MUSIC. Maternity leave replacement from beginning November 2016 to mid-April 2017. For this position Bachelor’s degree, native English speaker and two to three years of teaching experience in music and a strong background in instrumental music and piano required. MA degree in music preferred. Valid permit of

stay for US citizens required. Please email detailed CV to info@aosr.org. LOOKING FOR A NEW TEACHER. We’re looking for a new teacher to join our small and friendly team full or part time. We need motivated and positive team members. Experience with children aged 6 - 15 is preferred. Applicants must be native speakers and EU citizens (or have valid working papers). It is not necessary to speak Italian. To apply, complete the form here: www. creativeenglish.it/hiring. LOOKING FOR OUTGOING PEOPLE. Looking for outgoing people to work in English to give info to tourists and guide. Part time job. Send email to mackhugs@gmail.com or tel. 347 / 7791856. Please call after 06.00 PM. MOTERTONGUE PRIMARY AND NURSERY SCHOOL TEACHERS. Private school is searching for motertongue teachers for the 2016/2017 school year. Candidates have to be qualified and, at least, 2/3 year teaching experience with young learners. info@fondazionecavalsassi.it. MOTHER-TONGUE EARLY YEARS TEACHER. Mother-tongue Early Years

teacher required in international school. Qualifications and experience are necessary. info@casaghianda.it. MOTHER-TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHERS. Established English School seeking part-time qualified English mother-tongue teachers for young children and adult courses for immediate start. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to job@angloamerican.it. SEEKING ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE. English mother tongue female student required for 14 hours per week, English lessons. Contact Antonio, info.omnitours@gmail.com, tel. 335 / 8135235. THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME IS LOOKING TO HIRE A BUSINESS ANALYST. The selected candidate will be required to participate in the annual University budget planning processes and produce specialized budget/actual reports, also consolidating information and data from different systems and sources within the University. He/she will be capable of providing advice to management on options to correct negative variances, be proactive in improving processes

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

and methodologies to enable better reporting, analysis and financial advice. The ideal candidate must have at least two years of experience in a similar position, a University degree in Economics-Business Administration or Business Management, excellent knowledge of financial and managerial accounting, strong planning and analytical skills. He/she must be able to visualize and simplify complex data sets, must be computer literate with excellent knowledge of Excel (including Pivot Tables). Experience with SQL and relational databases. Required fluency in Italian and English (written and verbal). A resume (quote re: Business Analyst HR9/2016), with at least 1 reference contact, is to be submitted by e-mail to humanresources@aur.edu or by fax to +39 0658330992. Interviews will start as soon as possible and will be on-going until the position is filled. AUR is an equal opportunity employer. TOUR OPERATOR IN ROME HIRING. Prominent tour operator in Rome, specialized in the field of musical tours, cultural exchanges and concert arrangement in Italy and Europe, is seeking: preferably German

mothertongue, with excellent written and spoken English/Italian and strong computer skills. French skills are also appreciated. No specific experience requested, but candidate must have very good interpersonal and problem solving skills, other than being open to travel in Italy and abroad when necessary. Please send CV via mail to maestro_rome@tumlare.com. TRAINING SCUOLA DI LINGUE IS SEEKING. Mothertongue qualified English teachers required for company courses in Rome. Please send CV to info@trainingclub.com. YOUNG LEARNER TEACHER REQUIRED. For a children’s Language school. Mother tongue English, teaching qualifications and classroom experience are all minimum requirements. Please send CV and cover letter to teach@kidscando.it.

LESSONS ITALIAN LANGUAGE CLASSES AND TRANSLATIONS. Have a Master and a PhD in International Politics (earned

in the UK) and a significant experience as teacher of Italian as a second language and as editor and translator (English to Italian). Academic Italian (in Liberal Arts and Socio-Political subjects) classes availableArea: Downtown, Monteverde, Trastevere, Testaccio, Aventino, Portuense, Ostiense, moribana8@gmail.com. ITALIAN LESSONS. Italian professional teaches Italian in Trastevere, Monteverde and all Rome. italianculturalsensivity@gmail.com.

Poetry BELL TOWER. This time there is no fire to go out for the firemen in Amatrice. There is only the tricolour flame to warm the heart of every earthquake victims. Of every Italian. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. DAMNED ILLUSION. The way you kiss is like the one of a wife hardly left by her husband which goes to work. The difference is that you haven’t nor husband nor work. But kiss well. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

TO LAURA, A FRIEND OF MINE. Falling in love is like simmer, unfortunately my flame was too high, but I don’t get burned Laura, because. Once she made me taste her... biological apples! sernicolimarco@gmail. com. TRUMP. What he does? Trump.. t! sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. IMMIGRANTS WHERE? Europe government blamed each other. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. MARCO E LAURA. Our story is full of love like the one of a mother for her son, the difference is that not only grew but last a life. sernicolimarco@gmail. com. ORANGE. There is nothing to miss about you, there is nothing to come before or after you. I will cover you with flowers and kisses, I will cover you with azure and blue of citrus and sun. There is nothing which passes before you, there is nothing which runs faster than you. I will cover you with gifts and smiles, I will cover you with walks around Rome, I will cover you with poetry from Wanted in Rome. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. SOLITUDE. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the window they play ball, smoke cigarettes, listen to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the door my father plays ball, smokes cigarettes, listens to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the garden my mother plays ball, smokes cigarettes, listens to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of what. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. STATUS QUO. States without money, men without work, children without food. They fight to cope. Somebody tell to believe in the church and in Francis. The pope. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. THE QUESTION OF IMMIGRANT. Pass the buck... sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

YOU LAURA. You, always around you beloved by somebody you sweet and clever you beautiful and stop you only for you and me. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Property for sale in town FLAT FOR SALE IN TRASTEVERE. Apartment for sale in Trastevere. Via Natale del Grande, near Piazza S. Cosimato. 100sqm apartment, fifth floor with a lot of light. View on the cloister of Regina Margherita. One large entrance with big living room. Two bedrooms, one kitchen, 1 bathroom. Price €550.000. Please contact 344 / 2933591 or send email at alizzzarine@ gmail.com. Property for sale out of town CHARMING PRE-WAR VILLA IN GROTTAFERRATA. A fine example of the Castelli Romani era of the 1920s, this enchanting property features a 4BR home, a barn, a storage shed and 2,500 sqm of parkland with pine and olive trees, fruit orchards and a vineyard with grapes for eating and wine-making. From the monumental gate, a gently sloping driveway over 120 meters long leads to a decorative fountain, twin marble staircases and a bright sun terrace with sprawling views of Mount Cavo. segreteria@zucchettire.com.

Rooms and flat shares CLOSE TO FAO AND HISTORIC CENTRE. Single furnished room available in 125 sqm apartment with 3 single bedrooms, A/C, shared living room. Only females. €550/monthly, all included. Email: malfimarialuisa@gmail. com, tel. 338 / 4657292, photos available on request. TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfortable and well equipped. The room has a big bed, two armchairs, a desk, a wall cupboard with linen. Kitchen use. Including internet. Tel. 339 / 7857565. annabutticci@alice.it.

Schools and colleges ESE ROME SHORT COURSES, JANUARY INTAKE 2017. The European School of Economics (ESE) graduates are among the most competitive business professionals on the market, prepared for leadership roles in international marketing, finance, communication and management. With the ability to individually tailor their course of study, ESE students: study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1500 leading organisations around the world. ESE Short Courses have been created especially for managers, professionals andaspiring professionals who prefer short, highly focused training to longer periods of study. Professional Programmes provide participants with the knowledge necessaryfor specific occupational opportunities, and are open to a broader public: Film Business Management, Deal-making, Marketing & Sales Events Management Hospitality Management Specialised Programmes in Marketing, Management and Finance Intake Dates: January, April, September 2017 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional)12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday) Language of Instruction: English. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it+39 06 48906653. www.uniese.it www. eselondon.ac.uk.

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 December 2016 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | December 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it