Wanted in Rome - January 2016 by Wanted in Rome

january 2016 â&#x201A;Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 1

contents

titolo

no. 1 / January 2016 editorials

THE HOLY JUBILEE COPES WITH ISLAMIC EXTREMISM Laura Clarke. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ROME’S PILGRIM ROUTES Arianna Farina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 GRECCIO Philip Biss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 ROME’s cultural academies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 3 February and 2 March. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 24 January (for 3 February) and 21 February (for 2 March). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Building Body (archive) 2015, collage on canvas, 56cm x 76cm by Elisabeth Westerlund for Laboratorio eterno exhibition at Museo Hendrik Christian Andersen. See page 22 for details.

Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Franco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 11/01/2016

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

30 January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

JUBILEE

Laura Clarke

THE HOLY JUBILEE COPES WITH ISLAMIC EXTREMISM

Could the special Jubilee Year of Mercy provide an occasion for better inter-faith relations?

Pope Francis opens St Peter’s Holy Door.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

hen the sun went down on the opening of the Holy Year of Mercy on 8 December organisers and security officials heaved a big sigh of relief. The day that experts said was potentially at greatest risk of a terrorist attack had passed without incident. Tens of thousands of faithful had filed patiently into a heavily guarded St Peter’s Square to take part in the inaugural Mass and ritual opening of the Holy Door. Others had braved tight security in Piazza di Spagna to see Pope Francis pay homage to the statue of the Immaculate Conception, and then again to accompany him during a moment of private prayer at the basilica of S. Maria Maggiore. Common sense and the experience of New York, Bali, Madrid, London, Tunis, Sousse and most recently Paris suggested that this was always going to be the case. Terrorist attacks, when they happen, arrive out of the blue, taking everyone by surprise. Ordinary Italians – many of whom have clear memories of the extremist left- and right-wing political terrorism of the

JUBILEE Muslim worshippers outside the Great Mosque in Rome.

1970s and early 80s – knew it, and security officials knew it too. After the tragic events of Paris interior minister Angelino Alfano took every opportunity to remind Italians that even with effective intelligence and maximum security no country was at “zero risk” of terrorism. And at day’s end on 8 December Rome’s hard-nosed prefect Franco Gabrielli said officials would not be letting their guard down. “Rome will be on highest alert for the entire Holy Year,” he said. Security had been a major preoccupation for organisers of Pope Francis’ special Jubilee even before a group of Islamic State militants took the French capital by storm, gunning down or blowing up 130 people and spreading fear and panic across Europe. However, after the Paris attacks existing plans were ratcheted up. Hundreds of additional police and military personnel were deployed across the city centre to protect major institutional, tourist and pilgrim sites, and patrols were also stepped up on public transport and in outlying areas. Hospital emergency departments were put on standby, taxi drivers, public transport workers

and civil protection volunteers were offered special training in how to identify and report abnormal behaviour and Gabrielli even invited Romans to report B&Bs operating illegally on grounds that unregistered guests represented a potential weak point. The new security measures came amid calls from some quarters for the Jubilee to be called off altogether. “Absolutely not,” the Church and government replied in chorus. “The pope wants the Jubilee to serve for people meeting, to understand and overcome their hate,” Vatican Secretary of State Cardinal Pietro Parolin told French Catholic daily La Croix. “In a world lacerated by violence, it’s the right time to launch a mercy offensive,” he continued. Parolin also stressed that Pope Francis very much wanted Muslims to be involved. The pope used an apostolic visit to Central African Republic, a country long racked by sectarian fighting, at the end of November to call for interfaith unity against violence. “Together, let us say no to hatred, revenge and violence, particularly when it is perpetrated in the name of a religion or of

God himself,” he said at Koundoukou mosque in the capital Bangui. However, there was no suggestion that Francis might also visit the Great Mosque in Rome, allegedly the largest purpose-built mosque in Europe, alongside his much-trumpeted visit to the Synagogue on 17 January. After Paris, Muslims in Italy found themselves between a rock and a hard place amid repeated calls for a clear stand against Islamic terrorism – even though this had already been forthcoming. The Islamic Cultural Centre in Rome and the Union of Islamic communities and organisations in Italy (U.CO.I.I.) both immediately issued statements firmly condemning the attacks, and demonstrations were held in various cities across the country. Help came in the form of the funeral of Valeria Solesin, the one Italian victim of the Paris attacks. The parents of the 28-year-old Sorbonne doctoral student invited representatives of the local Muslim, Jewish and Catholic communities to attend the civil ceremony in Venice – itself an important cultural and religious crossroads for centuries. The funeral occasioned a rare show of cultural, political and religious unity and statements made by the imams present drew plaudits even from Veneto regional governor Luca Zaia of the populist and anti-immigrant Northern League, who said he wanted to dialogue with local Muslim leaders as a result. There are just over 1.6 million Muslims in Italy, or 2.6 per cent of the total population (60.7 million), according to December 2014 estimates in an internal interior ministry report. Muslims account for just under a third of immigrants in Italy. Some 98 per cent are Sunni and half come from North Africa (particularly Morocco). Other significant communities come from Albania and Bangladesh and 58 per cent are male. The number of Italian converts to Islam is estimated at 70,000 and a simiJanuary 2016 | Wanted in Rome

JUBILEE lar number of Muslim immigrants have obtained Italian citizenship. Generally speaking Muslims live in northern regions, with 26.5 per cent living in Lombardy. On a provincial level Milan, Rome, Brescia, Bergamo and Turin have the largest number of Muslim residents. There are four purpose-built mosques in Italy: in Rome, Segrate (Milan), Ravenna and Colle Val d’Elsa (Florence). In addition, there are a handful of official mosques in converted buildings and there are thought to be over 700 informal places of worship. These include the so-called ‘garage mosques’ that are of concern to interior ministry officials because of the difficulty of monitoring activities there. After Paris top officials ostensibly bent over backwards to avoid equating terrorists with immigrants or refugees, but counter-terrorism efforts inevitably targeted these communities. On 24 November, for example, in what the Rome prefect later said would “not be

the last” of such interventions in the city, approximately 60 riot police with sniffer dogs raided the Baobab centre near Tiburtina station, which had been at the forefront of efforts to assist transiting migrants and refugees mainly from Horn of Africa countries. Some 23 North Africans, Eritreans and Ethiopians were marched off to the central immigration office for checks. Police subsequently said none had suspected terrorist links, but many then faced expulsion because their papers were not in order. In early December the Baobab centre was shut down. On the foreign policy front prime minister Matteo Renzi has avoided the belligerent rhetoric of French president François Hollande and other European leaders, pushing rather for a comprehensive international strategy against terror, ever mindful of the chaos in Libya just across the Mediterranean from Italy. Renzi also bravely insisted that the terrorist threat should be countered

with culture as well as law enforcement and proposed allocating €1 billion in Italy’s 2016 budget for this purpose. His plan included allocating €500 million for “intervention” in impoverished urban areas to prevent them from becoming possible breeding grounds for fundamentalist resentment and violence, as has been the case in Paris and Brussels. And, after an initial period in which many Romans stopped going out and would-be visitors stayed away, things seem to be getting back to normal. For many people the ubiquitous potholes and road works, the struggling public transport system, the dirt and disorderliness and the deep pockets of poverty appeared more pressing problems than the real but remote threat of a terrorist attack. The first part of this article was published on the Wanted in Rome website on 9 December.

“Not in my Name” Muslim demonstration in Italy after the Paris killings. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ROME FOR PILGRIMS

Arianna Farina

ROME’S PILGRIM ROUTES Much of the layout of Renaissance Rome was dictated by the needs of pilgrims to reach St Peter’s from all parts of the city

he layout of Rome in the early 15th century was still determined by its mediaeval shape. It was only thanks to the urban planning policies of the great 15th-century popes that the city began to take on the Renaissance form that is still partly visible today. There is a close relationship between the main thoroughfares of the Renaissance and the current street plan of Rome’s historic centre. Its very survival is an invitation to explore these streets which still retain their architectural styles, as well as the urban and social functions of that great season of Renaissance Rome, and which still influence the daily life and the needs of today’s city. It was in the second half of the 15th century that the appearance and concept of Rome changed, beginning with its main centres: Borgo on one side and the planned and new Renaissance quarter on the other. It marked the start of the urban planning which was to shape the historic city that we can recognise today. Borgo, traditionally a pilgrim destination because of the tomb of St Peter, was described in the late 15th century as a devastated and abandoned area.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

Plan of Rome by Del Massaio, circa 1469.

ROME FOR PILGRIMS

Rome in 1688.

It is said that the very Romans “dared not go to the basilica for fear of being crushed by teetering buildings. Packs of ravenous wolves broke in close to the Vatican in winter.” Repopulated, saved from degradation and finally connected to the rest of the city, in the first years of the 16th century this zone became a vital residential area of Rome with the creation of a street system of great beauty which remained almost intact up to the beginning of the 20th century when the opening of Via della Conciliazione distorted much of the original street layout. The Renaissance quarter, particularly in the Ponte and Parione districts, appears today far more faithful to its 16th-century splendour. Once the situation in Borgo had been improved, the citadel and its basilica had to be connected to the “historic” city. At that time there was only one bridge linking this quarter to the other bank of the Tiber: the Ponte degli Angeli. Precisely because it was the only bridge, it played a role in the tragic event of the 1450 Jubilee, when many people were crushed by the crowds or drowned in the Tiber under the great throng of pilgrims and horses. Beyond the bridge, from the street called Canale del Ponte, began the city’s main thor-

oughfares, Via Peregrinorum, Via Papalis and Via Recta, along with the opening of the new Tor di Nona ordered by Sixtus IV and thus called Sistina di Ponte. These were veritable itineraries which, fanned out from the same point, crossing the Renaissance quarter and its districts: the vital centre of Rome, the city of bankers, artisans and merchants. The expression “Via” had a much wider meaning in the 15th century than it does today, indicating routes made up of several streets or roads. Thus we can see in today’s Via dei Banchi Vecchi, Via del Pellegrino and Via di Monserrato the outline of the Via Peregrinorum, the name derived from the pilgrims who trod it. Via del Pellegrino was perhaps the most beautiful. It was lined by splendid palaces and hosted a large number of shops and workshops, especially those of goldsmiths, such that it was still called “Via degli Orefici” as was “Via Florida” up to the 15th century. This route must have coincided partly with the Via Mercatoria, a particularly important route because it joined Campo de’ Fiori with Ponte S. Angelo. It stretched from today’s Via del Pellegrino to Via dei Giubbonari, a residential zone for foreign lega-

tions as well as a commerical area, and crossed Campo de’ Fiori, in those days a vital centre of the city thanks to its important market. As its name suggests, Via Mercatoria followed a route through Rome’s commercial areas, as far as the districts of S. Angelo, Regola and Parione, whose streets invoke the ancient trades that were once located there: Via dei Leutari, Via dei Cappellari, Via dei Giubbonari, Via dei Chiavari or Via dei Baullari. The outline of Via dei Banchi Nuovi and Via del Governo Vecchio corresponded to the Via Papalis, so named because it marked the traditional route taken by the pope during festivities and religious ceremonies. The road connected the Lateran to the Vatican, passing through the Canale di Ponte and then through Via del Governo Vecchio, Largo Argentina, the Campidoglio and the Colosseum. Popes did not always follow the same route, but – apart from a few deviations – they would always choose the mercantile streets for ceremonial and also representative purposes. It was here that the market of Piazza Navona was born in 1477 under Sixtus IV, becoming the “third urban pole”. The Via Recta corresponded to today’s Via dei Coronari, the first straight January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

ROME FOR PILGRIMS street in the city guaranteeing direct access to the Vatican for pilgrims. This was also the longest route, as it passed through the Ponte and Campo Marzio districts along Via delle Coppelle, Via del Collegio Capranico and Via di Colonna. The last stretch of the road as far as Via Panico was known as “imago Ponte” for one of Rome’s most important wayside shrines. This street was totally dedicated to crafts, as well as to pilgrimage and the spin-off market it produced. Thanks to the concentration of sellers of wreaths and religious articles, it was a sales point for sacred wares, as well as being a main thoroughfare. There was also Via di Tordinona or Sistina di Ponte, which is now much narrower because of the embank-

ments built along the Tiber after the floods of 1888. We should not forget the urban utopia of Via Giulia, the well-known architectural feat of Julius II and Bramante, giving pilgrims coming from Trastevere and heading for the Vatican a new and splendid route. In spite of some demolition work and the opening of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, much of the street system and its original appearance are still visible today. This brief list shows the original layout of the Rome of the popes – much of which still survives today – was dictated by the demands for access by pilgrims. Rome’s richness is due also to its earlier beauty, but in the case of Re-

naissance Rome it is not isolated in its ruins or on display in museums. There is instead a fusion of past and present, a continuing function and traffic system, a close connection between the urban demands of two societies totally separated by the passage of time, which renders any one of these streets a witness to change, but also to continuity. Knowing that the same streets were trodden by visitors and Romans centuries ago helps one integrate the ancient with contemporary city and gain a better understanding of the concepts at the origins of its creation. These streets represent far-off memories, ancient and present-day aspects, which make the journey toward St Peter’s even richer and more precious.

Borgo and St Peter’s before Via della Conciliazione distorted the original topography in the 20th century. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

NORTH LAZIO

Philip Biss

GRECCIO St Francis is usually associated with Assisi, but there are also important sites in Lazio where he left his mark

The site of the live nativity scene that takes place each year at the foot of the monastery of St Buonaventura.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

reek is no longer spoken in upper Sabina, as it might have been more than a thousand years ago if the legend is to be believed of Greek settlers escaping war in their country and settling in Greccio. Just over an hour away by car from Rome, Greccio has a fascinating connection with St Francis of Assisi and with the birth of Jesus in Bethlehem. First Grecia, then Grece, Grecce and finally Greccio, this picturesque village perched on rocks among the holm oak and beech forests of the Sabina mountains overlooking the Rieti plain attracts visitors from all over the world. They come to see the Franciscan church and monastery, parts of which were founded in 1228 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the same year as the canonisation of the saint â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and to look at the modern collection of nativity scenes set in such contrasting situations as a tent in sub-Saharan Africa or an Icelandic igloo. Greccio is now a world centre for such models showing the birthplace of Jesus. The earliest written references to the village appear in the Register of Farfa Abbey compiled by Gregory of Catino in the 1090s, and show that Greccio was being enclosed by six towers and high walls as part of a defensive ring of fortifications in the area. These protected the approaches to the famous Benedictine abbey of Farfa that owned most of Sabina and beyond from the Middle Ages up until the end of the 18th century. The defensive walls were not, however, strong enough to withstand assault by the troops of Frederick II in 1242 as the Holy Roman emperor made his way from Germany down the spine of Italy to Sicily, nor when Napoleon invaded and sacked the village at the end of the 18th century. Only three

NORTH LAZIO towers remain in Greccio as a reminder of that defensive role, but today most visitors head for the hermitage in the rocks outside the village where St Francis is said to have slept in self-imposed discomfort, and where there is now a monastery, founded some 66 years after his death. For the more energetic pilgrims, a walk up to La Capelletta, a chapel built in 1792 and visible on the skyline of Monte Lacerone (1,200m), might inspire them to rest and meditate there as Francis did before them. It was here in the early months of 1223 that he sought solitude to revise the rules of his Order to take account of its rapid growth and its missions outside Italy. During his absences abroad in Spain, Palestine and Egypt some parts of the Order had wandered from their strict observation of the simple rules on

which it had been founded in 1210. His first attempt to produce new rules resulted in a document that proved unworkable. He retired to Monte Lacerone in ill health, to “a hut protected by two Hornbeam plants” to redraft them, eventually sending his newly revised version for approval by Pope Honorious in Rome in Advent 1223. It has remained substantially unchanged to this day. It is said that Francis started living on Monte Lacerone in 1217 and that the lord of Greccio, Giovanni Velita, had pressed him to come down to the village to preach to the inhabitants and eventually to live among them. Apparently the holy man responded by getting a child to throw a burning firebrand from the mountain into the valley below saying that he would live wherever it landed. Legend has it that

it came to rest a kilometre or so north of the village, against the rocks which then became his hermitage. This is supposed to have been his favourite hermitage, although he stayed in many other places during his travels. When he returned, tired and unwell, to Greccio in 1223, it was there that he organised the first ever live re-enactment of the Bethlehem nativity scene, using a donkey and an ox and his followers on Christmas Eve. And it was there that his follower, St Bonaventura, built parts of the present monastery after Francis’ death. Despite a failed attempt to visit Palestine in 1212 when he was shipwrecked off the Dalmatian coast, Francis’ eventual connection with the Holy Land and Bethlehem came about in 1219. On this occasion he travelled to Damietta on the Nile delta while armies

The village of Greccio.

January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

NORTH LAZIO

SIDE NOTES Greccio is a pretty, little-known village with a wide central piazza and occupies a panoramic position overlooking the Rieti plain. The former marshland was drained in early Roman times when a canal was dug to the plateau edge at Marmore, allowing the Velino river to cascade into the Terni valley below, forming the highest man-made waterfall in Europe, well worthy of a visit. Check the website at www.marmorefalls.it to be sure of catching the magical moment when the water is released. There are several good restaurants in Greccio, not least the appropriately named Nido del Corvo, which has excellent food and a spectacular view. Getting there: By road from Rome: Take the Via Salaria to Rieti and then turn left and proceed about six km towards Terni, turning off left to Contigliano and then following the signs for Greccio. By bus from Rome: Cotral bus from Tiburtina to Rieti. Then Cotral bus from Rieti to Greccio. By train: from Terni in the direction of Rieti, alighting at Greccio station and taking a local bus.

of the Fifth Crusade, proclaimed by Pope Innocent III in 1213, were besieging the city. Francis – a man of peace – journeyed to Damietta to attempt to convert Sultan al Kamil, the head of the Ayyubid empire, to Christianity so that Jerusalem and Palestine could return to Christian control. It is uncertain what occurred at the meeting between them, although later reports claim the sultan gave Francis permission to visit Jerusalem and Bethlehem. What is certain is that the crusade continued for another two years and ended in defeat for the crusaders. It was during this period that Francis developed the idea of portraying the poverty surrounding the birth of Jesus in a Bethlehem stable occupied by an ox and a donkey. His abiding belief in a life of poverty is well reflected in what his biographer Thomas of Celano reports was his request to his friend Velita, lord of Greccio, late in 1223: “If now it seems good to thee that we should celebrate this feast together, go before me to Greccio and prepare

everything as I tell thee. I desire to represent the birth of that Child in Bethlehem in such a way that with our bodily eyes we may see what He suffered for lack of the necessities of a newborn Babe and how He lay in manger between the ox and ass.” Velita complied, provided the necessary props and animals, and word soon spread among the Franciscan community and people living in Sabina about this extraordinary event. Crowds came carrying candles and burning torches, while fires lit the scene and Mass was said over the crib with the animals standing by. Still today, the first ever living nativity scene is re-enacted every year late on Christmas Eve and on another six nights following, as it was in 1223, but now added to by other scenes explaining the whole story of St Francis’ involvement. Today a grandstand guarantees the modern, warmly-dressed visitor a good view of the proceedings under the floodlit cliffs to which the mediaeval monastery clings.

CAMMINO DI FRANCESCO For those who want to follow St Francis’ pilgrim route to Rome, there are good sign posts for the Cammino di Francesco. For further information see Proloco website, www.prolocogreccio.it. The Cammino S. Francesco winds its way from Greccio to Rome.

January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scene tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Art Centre Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.3019.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to

Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.00-18.00. Mon closed. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.0019.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna. it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. MonSat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery recently relaunched near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno. com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it. Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org.

Monitor

di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

exhibitions Renzo Arbore with New York from his collection of showbiz memorabilia at MACRO.

Kudus by Schili for the Animaux sauvages exhibition at the Museo di Zoologia.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

PROTOTYPOLOGY AN INDEX OF PROCESS AND MUTATION 14 Jan-5 March Exhibition exploring the research and development in the work of 30 contemporary artists, tracing the journey of finished artworks from their initial concept stage through preparatory drawings, plans, maquettes and bricolage. The show includes new and archival material by artists such as Michael Heizer, Takashi Murakami, Albert Oehlen, Robert Therrien, Dan Graham, Claes Oldenburg, Tatiana Trouvé and Rachel Whiteread. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. RENZO ARBORE: LA MOSTRA 19 Dec-3 April Celebrating the 50-year career of Renzo Arbore, the Italian television and radio host, showman, singer, musician, actor and film director. The exhibition examines the effect Arbore has had on popular culture and the entertainment industry in Italy, and features his collection of memorabilia and documents picked up over his five decades in show business. MACRO Testaccio, La Pelanda, Piazza O. Giustiniani, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org.

ANIMAUX SAUVAGES: ANIMALI SELVAGGI VISTI DA SCHILI 18 Dec-14 March Some 60 paintings by Roman artist Salvatore Schilirò, better known as Schili, representing the wild animals of Africa and Asia. Schili is a passionate enviornmentalist and his colourful painting style mixes a modern graphic approach with echoes of Byzantine mosaics. Museo Civico di Zoologia, Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 18, tel. 0667109270, www.museodizoologia.it. AFFINITÀ ELETTIVE 17 Dec-13 March Exhibition of works by Italian artists from the first half of the 20th century, from the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale and the Fondazione Magnani Rocca in Parma. Both galleries have contributed about 40 works each to the show which documents key developments in early to mid 20th-century Italian art, with a particular focus on the period between the world wars. A highlight of the show is de Chirico’s L’enigma della partenza, as well as notable works by Burri, Colla, Mafai, Manzù, Marini, Savinio, Scialoja and Severini. The exhibition also includes pieces from the collections of Rome’s MACRO and Casa Museo

Alberto Moravia. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. ISTANBUL: PASSION, JOY, FURY 11 Dec-30 April Rome’s MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo presents an exhibition dedicated to Istanbul, continuing its series of shows exploring the cultural milieu of the Mediterranean basin and the relations between the Middle East and Europe. The exhibition examines the changing social, political and cultural demands of contemporary Turkey, a bridge between the western and eastern worlds. The show features artistic productions, and audio and visual projects by important Turkish artists, architects and intellectuals, and is divided into five sections: urban transformations; political conflicts and resistance; innovative models of production; geopolitical urgencies; hope. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. QUANDO ROMA PARLAVA FRANCESE 11 Dec-13 March As part of a larger project dedicated to the years of French influence on Rome (1798-99, 1809-14), the Napoleonic Museum delves into its archive to shed light on the festivals and monuments during the era of the Roman Republic (1798-99). Museo Napoleonico, Piazza di Ponte Umberto I, tel. 066874240, www.museonapoleonico.it.

L’enigma della partenza by Giorgio de Chirico at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale.

glazed earthenware, vases and objects made of gold, silver and jadeite. A highlight of the exhibition is a funerary robe with 2,000 jade listels woven with golden threads. Palazzo Venezia, Via del Plebiscito 118, tel. 0669994388.

JAMES TISSOT 26 Sept-21 Feb Italy’s first exhibition dedicated to the lesser-known French painter James Tissot (1836-1902). On loan are some 80 paintings from international galleries

POISON TOFFEE APPLES 5 Dec-23 Jan Italian artist Paolo Pedroni presents 18 oil paintings and four drawings telling the story of Furry, an imaginary child characterised by a peculiar hairy face. Pedroni’s bizarre work belongs very much in the Pop Surrealism category, in which the Dorothy Circus Gallery specialises, but is also partly inspired by paintings from the Mannerist and Baroque eras. Dorothy Circus, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www. dorothycircusgallery.com.

STILL SHOWING TESORI DELLA CINA IMPERIALE 16 July-28 Feb Palazzo Venezia showcases more than 100 pieces from the Henan Provincial Museum, one of the most important in China. The exhibition examines the period between the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD) to the Golden Age of the Tang Dynasty (581 AD-907 AD). The artefacts on display include lacquers,

Against the Current by Güneş Terkol for the Istanbul exhibition at MAXXI. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Maybe You Will Love Me by Paolo Pedroni at Dorothy Circus Gallery.

The football player by Jane Maria Petersen at Museo Hendrik Christian Andersen. See also cover from the same exhibition.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

such as the Tate in London, the Petit Palais and Museo d’Orsay in Paris, illustrating Tissot’s career, from his celebrated use of colour to his interest in mysticism and fashion. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

amine the cultural and social contexts in which they worked. There are more than 60 works by Bazille, Cézanne, Degas, Manet, Morisot, Pissarro and Renoir on loan from the Musée d’Orsay. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 066780664.

WALTER BONATTI: FOTOGRAFIE DAI GRANDI SPAZI 8 Oct-31 Jan The great outdoors in the photographs of the Italian mountaineer, explorer and journalist Walter Bonatti (1930-2011) whose large-scale images retrace more than 30 years of travel to the remotest corners of the world. Bonatti became famous in the 1950s with his climbs on the Grand Capucin and Petit Dru above Chamonix, and his first ascent of Gasherbrum IV in the Karakoram mountain range between Pakistan, India and China. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com.

LABORATORIO ETERNO 25 Oct-28 Jan This exhibition explores the influence of Italy on the work of five Nordic artists: Siri Kollandsrud from Norway, Marianne Grønnow, Anita Viola Nielsen and Jane Maria Petersen from Denmark and Elisabeth Westerlund from Sweden. These mixed media works created have been inspired by the monumental sculpture by Hendrik Christian Andersen in this museum. Andersen lived in Rome from 1896 until his death in 1940. See cover of this magazine. Museo Hendrik Christian Andersen, Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini 20, tel. 063219089, www. museoandersen.beniculturali.it.

DAL MUSÉE D’ORSAY: IMPRESSIONISTI TÊTE À TÊTE 15 Oct-7 Feb Works by the Impressionist masters ex-

TRANSFORMERS 11 Nov-28 March Group exhibition in which four artists examine contemporary visual culture

and how it interacts with modern technology. Korea’s Choi Jeong-Hwa injects folk-inspired “happy life” vibes into art and architectural installations. The French-Portuguese artist Didier Faustino designs devices that confront our physical and mental limits. Italian Martino Gamper reinterprets the concept of do-it-yourself through recycling and reinventing, while the work of Mexico’s Pedro Reyes encourages peaceful social interactions. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810. www.fondazionemaxxi.it. JOSÉ DAMASCENO: DEAMBULAZIONE E DIVAGAZIONE 11 Nov-31 Jan The Galleria Valentina Bonomo in the Jewish ghetto presents a site-specific installation by Brazilian artist José Damasceno. The exhibition features sculptures, drawings and objects by the Rio de Janiero-based artist, whose work contains both minimalist and surrealist aspects. Galleria Valentina Bonomo, Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo. com. MAÏMOUNA GUERRESI: TALWIN 12 Nov-23 Jan Maïmouna Guerresi’s solo exhibition is inspired by talwin, a term from Sufi culture to represent the final stages of a being’s spiritual enlightenment and path towards knowledge. The exhibition comprises a multifaceted selection of works, mainly photographic, and is described by organisers as a “refined quest of balance between Islamic and western culture.” Matèria Gallery, Via Tiburtina 149, www.materiagallery.com. EVGENY ANTUFIEV: FUSION AND ABSORPTION 14 Nov-6 Feb The z2o Sara Zanin Gallery presents the first solo exhibition in Rome by Evgeny Antufiev. The young Russian artist is known for using a variety of objects and materials in his installations, such as bones, cloth, crystals, glue, hair, insects, marble, meteorites, teeth, snake skins and wood. His Rome exhibition features sculpted pieces which examine themes such as collective memory, the relationships between contemporary and ancient art, and the links between art and nature. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. PABLO ECHAURREN: CONTROPITTURA 20 Nov-3 April An exhibition dedicated to the colour-

Wart by Pablo Echaurren at GNAM.

ful career of contemporary Roman artist Pablo Echaurren, whose avantgarde style incorporates elements of surrealism, pop art and futurism. The thematic exhibition features over 200 works, focusing in particular on the political and social commitment of the multi-faceted but unassuming artist. The show contains a large amount of drawings and collages, most of which have never been published or exhibited, dating from the late 1970s and reflecting the highlycharged political climate in Italy at the time. Many of these works relate to Echaurren’s experience with the Indiani Metropolitani, a small faction active in the Italian far-left protest movement between 1976 and 1977, during the so-called anni di piombo (Years of Lead). The works on display range from the artist’s early “square” watercolours – paintings comprising a collection of postage stamp-sized individual images; followed by a series of large canvases from the 1980s and 1990s – dealing with world events and

environmental issues; as well as satirical collage works and political posters from the 1990s. There are also works inspired by Marcel Duchamp, pioneer of the Dada art movement, including a wildly-coloured urinal displayed in a glass box. The exhibition concludes with Echaurren’s most recent works, the large colourful so-called Wall Paintings, designed around his “symbolic alphabet of obliterated slogans.” These arresting images contain references to conflicts and opposing factions, and are littered with symbols that are at first hidden but become clearer on closer inspection. They include dollar signs, tanks, scissors, toxic skulls, missile-like arrows, exploding bombs and peace signs. Worth a second look too are Echaurren’s notebooks which provide a glimpse into the working processes of the artist who is at once a painter, sculptor, cartoonist, ceramicist and writer. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www. gnam.beniculturali.it.

Golden Lotus by Choi Jeong-Hwa for Transformers at MAXXI. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Matto (1940) by Gillo Dorfles at MACRO.

Divan Japanais by Toulouse-Lautrec at the Ara Pacis.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

GILLO DORFLES: ESSERE NEL TEMPO 27 Nov-13 March MACRO hosts a major retrospective dedicated to the long and distinguished career of Gillo Dorfles, the 105-year-old Italian art critic, painter, poet and philosopher. MACRO director Federica Pirani introduced the artist, who was present at the exhibition preview, as a “Renaissance man” whose work united art and science, architecture and design, sculpture and poetry. The exhibition’s curator Achille Bonito Oliva, citing the Italian painter Osvaldo Licini (1894-1958), described Dorfles’ work as “erotico, erratico, eretico.” After the presentation Dorfles toured his own exhibition, all the more remarkable as it contains works that he has painted over the last eight decades — from 1935 until last summer. The exhibition celebrates the entire opus of Dorfles, including his artistic output, critical thinking and aesthetic theories. The show features over 100 works, some displayed for the first time, including paintings, drawings and prints, and a selection of ceramics and jewellery. It traces Dorfles’ founding role in Italy’s abstract Arte Concreta movement in the late 1940s, and includes three new paintings produced by the artist in recent months. The exhibition also presents his critical essays on a vast range of topics, including art criticism, aesthetics, philosophy, psychology and sociology. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.org. TOULOUSE-LAUTREC 4 Dec-8 May Some 170 works by Henri ToulouseLautrec come to Rome from the Museum of Fine Arts in Budapest, currently closed for renovations. Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) is famed for his prolific output of Post-Impressionist paintings and posters, lithographs and Art Nouveau illustrations, the majority of which recorded scenes from the brothels, theatres and bars of late 19th-century Paris. The works exhibited in Rome were created during the last decade of the bohemian artist’s life, who died aged 36, and include rare limited-edition prints, illustrations and posters. Of particular interest are the designs leading to the final images, showing the evolution process behind the printed poster or lithograph. The exhibition comprises sections dedicated to Parisian nightlife, actresses from the Belle Epoque, and horse-racing at Longchamp. It also provides poignant insights into the artist’s personal life and his warm relationship with the prostitutes and dancers who feature in so much of his

REVIEW OF THE MONTH Balthus at the Scuderie del Quirinale 24 Oct-31 Jan

Le point du jour by Pierre Alechinsky at the CoBrA exhibition at Palazzo Cipolla.

work. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. CoBrA UNA GRANDE AVANGUARDIA EUROPEA 1948-1951 4 Dec-3 April The Fondazione Roma at Palazzo Cipolla dedicates a major exhibition to CoBrA, the first major European avant-garde movement to emerge from the ashes of world war two. Formed in Paris in 1948, CoBrA takes its name from the three cities of its founders: Copenhagen, Brussels and Amsterdam. The movement only lasted three years, was characterised by spontaneity and experiment, and is considered a catalyst for European Abstract Expressionism. The work of the CoBrA artists, many of whom later moved to Liguria in northern Italy, was inspired in particular from children’s drawings, from primitive art forms and from the work of Klee and Miró. The exhibition features 150 works including paintings, sculptures, drawings, documents and photographs relating to CoBrA’s leaders Alechinsky, Appel, Constant, Corneille, Dotremont, Götz, Jorn, Lucebert and Pedersen. One interesting aspect of the show is the display of much later work by several of the original CoBrA artists – from the 1960s up to the 1980s – in some cases revealing an increasingly colourful palette with the passing of time. Palazzo Cipolla, Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www.fondazioneromamuseo.it.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

Captivating, voyeuristic, unsettling, ambiguous, creepy, unique; there are many adjectives to describe the art of Balthasar Klossowski de Role, better known as Balthus (1908– 2001). It is less easy, however, to pinhole the work of the Polish-French artist into any one category. On the 15th anniversary of his death the Scuderie del Quirinale The Street in Rome presents a major exhibition dedicated to an artist it describes as one of the “most original and enigmatic masters of the 20th century.” The restrospective built around his best-known masterpieces is part of a joint exhibition at the Scuderie and the capital’s French Academy at Villa Medici, where Balthus was the director from 1964-1979. Between both venues there are around 200 pieces on display, including paintings, drawings and photographs. As regular visitors will attest, the Scuderie never does anything by halves and the Balthus exhibition is no exception. It is beautifully presented. The show begins with The Street (1933) which, according to Balthus, was his “first important work”, the origin of a brave new style. Set in the Latin quarter in Paris, this large street scene caused scandal when it was exhibited in 1934, primarily due to the perceived act of sexual aggression in the far left of the painting.

Solitaire

Populated by strangely-frozen figures, the work has clear echoes of Early Renaissance Italian artists, in particular Piero Della Francesca, and is also influenced by children’s book illustrations. Exhibited alongside earlier versions as well as Balthus copies of Della Francesca’s Leggenda della Santa Croce fresco cycle in Arezzo, The Street contains the principal features of the artist’s future works: seemingly mundane moments of contemporary life, Old Masters’ painting techniques and, more disturbingly, his subtly erotic scenes of children and teenagers. (The artist always denied any hint of impropreity, claiming rather that his work recognised the “discomforting facts of children’s sexuality”). A highlight of the show is Solitaire (1943), a painting that exudes menace. Half kneeling, half standing, a girl plays solitaire at an ornate card table. With the exception of the regular stipes of the wallpaper in the background, everything in this bougeois interior is askew, as if thrown off kilter by the poltergeist presence of the restless girl. Her position is awkward, unrelaxed, as if attempting to remain calm in the face of underlying rage or extreme boredom. Indeed such is the tension, one could imagine an out-ofshot murdered sibling or parent slumped on the carpet. Another highlight is La Chambre (1952-54) whose central character – a young girl spreadeagled on a chaise lounge – is portrayed in a blatantly erotic light. The work was described as “profoundly La Toilette di Cathy a true Balthus” by the late art critic Edith Schloss in a 1990 issue of Wanted in Rome. Schloss sets the scene: “a dwarf child tearing open a curtain to let the sun expose a lone Lolita arched back in private ecstasy – a modern annunciation, an erotic mystery against deep spaces.” (Incidentally Balthus’s Girl With Cat featured as a cover for the 1995 Penguin edition of Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov.) For Schloss, the largely self-taught artist was a “painter par excellence” while Balthus himself put it thus: “To paint is to emerge from oneself, forget oneself, to prefer anonymity to everything, and sometimes risk not being in harmony with one’s own century and contemporaries.” The exhibition continues with La Toilette di Cathy (1933), inspired by Emily Brontè’s 1847 novel Wuthering Heights. It features the maid Nelly attending to the deathly-pale and virtually naked Cathy, dressed in a wide-open dressing gown, while an elegantly-attired Heathcliff (with the likeness of Balthus) looks away, brooding over Cathy’s impending rendezvous with his rival Edgar Linton. Arguably the most bizarre painting on display is The Meditteranean Cat, a feline-faced human (possibly Balthus who in addition to young girls was fixated with cats), tucking into a ready supply of fish leaping from the sea through a rainbow. Aside from being a joyous, almost psychedelic work, with metaphysical influences, it provides a welcome relief from the darker aspects of Balthus’s oeuvre. That is not to say that the exhibition is swamped with pubescent girls, or “little Poussins” as the elusive artist described them, secreted away in their bedrooms in a state of undress. There are numerous portraits, ink studies and landscapes, many revealing the artist’s progression from his often mahogany, impasto earlier work to the smoother, lighter and crisper paintings of his later career. Cour de ferme à Chassy (1957) is a stark, bright, wintry farmland scene while The Card Game (1973) is faded and washed out like a glorious fresco from mediaeval times. The show ends with Le peintre et son modèle (1980/81) which features the elderly artist with a much younger model who awaits his instructions. There is a fine line between subject matter being compelling and taboo. Balthus treads this delicate line masterfully, with his complex blend of magnificent composition, contrived naevity and thinly-veiled devilment.

Andy Devane

The Mediterranean Cat

Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Angela Hewitt is back in Rome to perform at the IUC on 2 February.

CLASSICAL For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana. org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA GALANTE VS BETTA 14 Jan Piano and clarinet concert with music composed by Carlo Galante (from Trento) and Marco Betta (from Sicily) for Selene Framarin (clarinet) and Al-

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

fonso Alberti (piano). It is the premiere for new compositions by both Betta and Galante. There are also two works by Niccolò Castiglioni. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana. org. ENSEMBLE L’ESTRAVAGANTE 21 Jan A programme of sonatas for three instruments, two violins, viola and harpsichord/organ. The sonatas are by Vivaldi, JS Bach and Bonporti. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE S. CECILIA BORN IN THE USA 16-19 Jan The S. Cecilia Orchestra plays music by Bernstein, Barber and Adams conducted by Antonio Pappano with American violinist Gil Shaham. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. DANIIL TRIFONOV 20 Jan Daniil Trifonov returns to S. Cecilia to perform a technically difficult programme of music by Bach, Brahms,

Schubert and Rachmaninov, but surprisingly no Chopin. Young Trifonov, who already has an impressive awardwinning career behind him at the age of 24, is following in the footsteps of great pianists such as Maurizio Pollini, Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli, Radu Lupu and Andras Schiff. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. MUSICA E CINEMA 22 Jan An evening of Oscar-winning cinema music composed by Piovani, Morricone and Rota played by the strings of the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Luigi Piovano who also plays a cello solo. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. IL SECOLO BREVE 23-26 Jan A programme of 19th- and 20th-century French music, including Debussy’s Prelude a l’apres-midi d’un faune and Faure’s Requiem. The S. Cecilia orchestra is conducted by Antonio Pappano, with Michael Barenboim violin, Lisette Oropesa soprano and Vito Priante baritone. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

YURI TEMIRKANOV ANNA TIFU 30 Jan- 2 Feb Yuri Temirkanov conducts the Italian violinist Anna Tifu in her debut at S. Cecilia, playing Shostakovich’s violin concerto n. 1. The programme is Russian music – Glazunov, Shostakovich and Rachmaninoff. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

ANGELA HEWITT 2-3 Feb Canadian pianist Angela Hewitt, who is known as one of the top Bach pianists, plays a programme of Scarlatti, Bach and Beethoven. She also gives a talk the following day on the three composers with a question and answer session for the IUC’s Pourparler programme. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

PROKOVIEV/BEETHOVEN/ SHOSTAKOVICH 6-9 Feb The programme is conducted by Pablo Heras-Casada and the paino soloist is Emanuel Ax playing Beethoven’s concerto number 2. The programme also includes Prokofiev’s so-called Classical symphony and Shostakovich’s ninth symphony, started in 1943 but finished at the end of world war two in 1945 in a much lighter and more positive mood. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

ENSEMBLE MICROLOGUS 6 Feb The Ensemble Micrologus is an Italian group that specialises in mediaeval and renaissance music. Its latest project is called Le cortesie e le audaci imprese io canto dedicated to the music at the time of Orlando Furioso on the fifth centenary of the first publication of Ariosto’s ground-breaking epic poem. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

INSTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI ILYA GRINGOLTS PETER LAUL 16 Jan This top Russian violinist plays chamber music by Dvorak, Schumman, Webern and R. Strauss, accompanied by Peter Laul. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. EMANUELE ARCIULI FIVE VERSIONS OF DARKNESS 23 Jan Pianist Emanuele Arciuli, who won Italy’s prestigious Franco Abbiati award for the best soloist of the year in 2011, has chosen the works of five composers inspired by the night: Schumann, Sciarrino, Liszt, Crumb and Bartok. Arciuli is considered one the top interpreters of Crumb’s avantgarde music. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. IL BORGHESE GENTILUOMO PEPPE SERVILLO ENSEMBLE BERLIN 26 Jan Italian actor Peppe Servillo recites Moliere’s Il Borghese Gentiluomo to the music composed for the work by Richard Strauss in 1912, played by the Ensemble Berlin. He is the brother of Toni Servillo, best known for his part in films Gormorra, Il Divo and La Grande Bellezza by Paolo Sorrentino. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Anna Tifu makes her debut at S. Cecilia with conductor Yuri Temirkanov.

ORATORIO GONFALONE FLUTE SYMPHONY ROSSINI FLUTE ENSEMBLE 21 Jan The four to ten young musicians in this ensemble, which was formed in 2006, play a variety of flutes – from soprano to bass. Here the ensemble performs music by Ravel, Borne and Bizet. Via del Gonfalone 32a, www. oratoriogonfalone.com. SERENATO IN TRIO 28 Jan Andrea Oliva flute, Carlo Maria Paraz-

zoli violin and Luca Sanzò viola play music by Reger and Beethoven. James Galway – known as “the man with the golden flute” – has called Oliva one of the best flautists of his generation – no small praise from the Irish celebrity. Oliva is the first solo flute in the S. Cecilia Orchestra and also teaches at the academy. Parazzoli leads the first violinists in the S. Cecilia orchestra. Sanzò teaches at S. Cecilia and often performs at the annual Rome Chamber Music festival. Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. QUARTETTO DI ROMA 4 Feb This string quartet specialises in 19th- and 20th-century Italian chamber music. Music by Mozart and Debussy. Via del Gonfalone 32a, www. oratoriogonfalone.com. TEATRO DELL’ OPERA DI ROMA

Andrea Oliva plays at the Gonfalone on 28 January.

SPECCHIO DEL TEMPO BEETHOVEN, SIBELIUS, DONATONI 31 Jan This series of six symphony concerts by the Teatro dell’ Opera orchestra plays music from three different centuries and genres – classical, 19th century and contemporary. The conductor for this third programme of music by Beethoven, Sibelius and Donatoni is Tito Ceccherini with Sunwook Kim at the piano. Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, www. operaroma.it. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

sive rock, jazz, and industrial metal. Traffic Club, Via Prenestina 738, www. trafficlive.org. THE TALLEST MAN ON EARTH 13 Feb This Swedish singer-songwriter has been compared to Bob Dylan for both his lyrical style and vocal delivery. His sound is influenced by early American folk artists such as Pete Seeger and Woody Guthrie. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 066794585, www.quirinetta.com.

dance MILAN Subsonica at Spazio Novecento.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ IAN FISHER 17 Jan Singer-songwriter Ian Fisher describes himself as “a little man with a big voice” whose 1,000 songs are “like himself: short, simple, and honest.” Based in Berlin, Fisher is originally from Missouri in the US and is known for his indie-folk ballads. Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, Pigneto, tel. 0645598326.

Ian Fisher at Na Cosetta in Pigneto.

CARMEN CONSOLI 20 Jan Sicilian singer-songwriter Carmen Consoli performs at Auditorium Conciliazione. Her musical style incorporates elements of rock, alternative pop and folk, and she is known for hit singles such as L’ultimo bacio. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. SUBSONICA 4 Feb Formed in Turin in 1996, this Italian rock band is known for hit singles such as Tutti i miei sbagli and Discolabirinto. Spazio Novecento, Piazzale Guglielmo Marconi 26/B, tel. 0654221107, www. spazionovecento.it.

The Tallest man on Earth at Teatro Quirinetta.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

CORONER 5 Feb Swiss thrash metal band which has been on the go, in various guises, since 1983. Coroner’s sound has become increasingly complex over the years and incorporates elements of thrash, classical, avant-garde, progres-

TEATRO ALLA SCALA CINDERELLA 17 Dec-15 Jan The season at La Scala opens with the premiere of a new choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti for Sergei Prokofiev’s Cinderella. Danced by Roberto Bolle and guest artist Polina Semionova, principal dancer with the American Ballet Theatre. In this new version Bigonzetti gets rid of Cinderella’s glass slipper and instead the prince tours the country looking for the girl who fits the skirt she leaves behind in her rush to leave the ball. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. THE NUTCRACKER BY TCHAIKOVSKY 9 Feb-13 March This is a re-run of Nacho Duato’s successful choreography staged at La Scala last year. It has the classical foundations of the original with Duato’s modern touches. The Spanish choreographer, who studied at the Rambert in London, with Maurice Bejart in Brussels and Alvin Ailey in New York, is now the artistic director of ballet at the Mikhaylovsky Theatre in St Petersburg. Duato’s Nutcracker premiered at the Mikhaylovsky in 2013.

ROME AUDITORIUM CONCILIAZIONE LO SCHIACCIANOCI ACROBATICO BALLETTO DI S. PIETROBURGO 18 Jan See Milan, Teatro Arcimboldi green box page 32. Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

LES ETOILES INTERNATIONAL DANCE GALA 23-24 Jan A medley of dancers and classical repertoire. Marianela Nunez and Thiago Soares from the Royal Ballet in London, Lucia Lacarra and Marlon Dino from the Bavarian State Opera and Iana Salenko and Marian Walter from Berlin’s State Opera will dance pieces from Swan Lake, Don Quixote, Le Corsaire. Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. TEATRO OLIMPICO MOMIX OPUS CACTUS 9-21 Feb Moses Pendleton’s Opus Cactus which he choreographed for Momix in 2002 is back at Teatro Olimpico. Momix, which now has three teams of dancers, was started by Pendleton in 1981 and its mix of mime, dance and acrobatics probably makes it one of the world’s best-known and most popular dance companies. There is hardly a season at Teatro Olimpico without a Momix performance. This year Opus Cactus is back with the new look bringing the Arizona desert alive once again with cacti, lizards and fire dancers. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it. TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA GRANDI COREOGRAFI 26 Feb-2 March An evening of Balanchine (Serenade), Millepied (Closer), Forsythe (Vertiginous Thrill of Exactitude), and Nureyev (Raymonda) with the etoiles, first ballerinas and the ballet corps of the Teatro dell’Opera. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it. TEATRO VASCELLO TOSCA X 9-10 Feb Choreographer Monica Casadei with Artemis Danza. Artemis Danza is collaborating with campaigns in Italy to raise awareness of violence against women. There are workshops with the company in the week before the performances and on the same day to create audience understanding of the work as well as participation. This work concentrates on the relationship between Scarpia and Tosca in Act 2, between assailant and victim,

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

Mvula Sungani’s Odyssey Ballet with Physical Dance.

torturer and tortured. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it. ODYSSEY BALLET UNA STORIA MEDITERRANEA 13-14 Feb Mvula Sungani’s choreography with Emanuela Bianchini and dancers of Physical Dance. Mvula Sungani’s dance company and school is based

in Rome. Sungani, grew up in Rome’s Centocelli, started working in television with Raffaella Carrà at the age of 13 and then received his professional formation with Alvin Ailey. Odyssey Ballet is an interdisciplinary, multicultural work inspired by the north and the south of the Mediterranean, by Sungani’s Italian and Malawi heritage. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

MILAN

AUDITORIUM ARCIBOLDI A month of Russian music and dance at Teatro Arcimboldi. Via dell’Innovazione 20, www.teatroarcimboldi.it. ARMATA RUSSA 14 Jan Russia’s Red Army orchestra, 100-strong choir and 40 dancers from St Petersburg is always a hit with its fast-moving and energetic programme of Russian music and dance. The Milan appearance is part of its current European tour. LO SCHIACCIANOCI ACROBATICO ST PETERSBURG BALLET 15-16 Jan This is the classical ballet with added acrobatic content. St Petersburg Ballet is joined by dancers from the Teatro Mariinski. It will also be showing in Rome, at Auditorium Conciliazione on 18 Jan. LA BELLA ADORMENTATA RUSSIAN INTERNATIONAL BALLET 19-20 Jan The Russian International Ballet started life early in 2000 as a theatre company but then was transformed into a ballet company with a classical repertoire.

Cinderella from the controlling forces around her. A few years ago Dante produced a humorous version of the fairytale for the theatre, entitled Anastasia, Genoveffa e Cenerentola, which was then published as a book. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operadiroma.it.

opera MILAN RIGOLETTO BY VERDI 13 Jan-6 Feb A Teatro alla Scala production with Vittorio Grigolo as the Duke, Leo Nucci as Rigoletto and Nadine Sierra who debuts at La Scala as Gilda. The conductor is Mikko Frank and director is Gilbert Deflo. This is an old La Scala favourite which has been performed numerous times since it was first staged in the 1990s. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org.

Victor Grigolo in Rigoletto at La Scala.

ducted by Alejo Perez this is certain to be a new production full of surprises. Rossini’s Cenerentola is already somewhat different from the classical fairy tale, with a stepfather instead of a stepmother. In a recent interview with La Repubblica Dante outlined a mix of traditional with modern elements such as pop surrealism. In the scene where the prince searches for Cinderella the women all carry weapons and Dante puts the emphasis on the liberation of

IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA BY ROSSINI 11-21 Feb This is a new Davide Livermore production of Rossini’s old favourite, on the bicentenary of its first performance on 20 February 1816 at Teatro Argentina in Rome. Livermore, who was born in Turin, is the artistic director at the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia Valencia. The conductor is Donato Renzetti, with two Italian Rossini mezzo sopranos – Chiara Amaru and Teresa Iervolino – in the role of Rosina. The new season at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma is one of unusual works and original stagings (see for example Emma Dante’s La Cenerentola) so it will be interesting to see where Livermore takes the audience with this much-loved work. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www. operadiroma.it.

theatre RUMORI FUORI SCENA 12-24 Jan Rumori fuori scena (Noises Off) is a 1982 play by the English playwright Michael Frayn who discovered by chance that

THE TRIUMPH OF TIME AND TRUTH BY HANDEL 28 Jan-13 Feb Handel’s oratorio, staged successfully by Jurgen Flimm for Zurich and Berlin opera houses, is being revamped for La Scala by conductor Diego Fasolis, one of the top experts in ancient music, who is creating an orchestra ensemble dedicated to baroque music with original instruments. This is part of a La Scala project to stage one baroque title each season. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME LA CENERENTOLA BY ROSSINI 22 Jan-19 Feb Directed by Emma Dante and con-

Anna Bonaiuto stars in La belle joyeuse for Teatro India. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Ted Neeley in Jesus Christ Superstar at Teatro Sistina.

one of his earlier plays, The Two of Us, “was funnier from behind than in front.” Each of the three acts contain a performance of the first act of a play within a play. Translated into Italian by Filippo Ottoni, directed by Attilio Corsini. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it. LA BELLE JOYEUSE 13-17 Jan Written and directed by Gianfranco Fiore, La belle joyeuse stars Anna Bonaiuto as Cristina Trivulzio Belgiojoso, the princess and writer who played a prominent part in the struggle for Italian unification. The play, a monologue by Bonaiuto, examines both the public and private life of a complex, spirited character, a “belle joyeuse” ahead of her time. In Italian. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000311/14. www.teatrodiroma.net.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR 20 Jan-1 Feb The Teatro Sistina celebrates the 21st anniversary of the Italian version of the famous rock opera. This production features Ted Neeley who starred in the 1973 film version by Norman Jewison, with live music performed by an orchestra. The hugely-successful musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice has been entertaining audiences around the world ever since it opened in Broadway in 1971. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it. ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 29 Jan The January edition of this monthly evening of hilarity (in English) begins the new year with plenty of new material from the club’s regular crowd of comedians. Doors open as usual at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel.

347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@ gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere. AS YOU LIKE IT 2-7 Feb The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome stage a production of this Shakespearian pastoral comedy, 400 years after the death of The Bard. Thought to have been penned in 1599, the play follows Rosalind and her cousin Celia who leave behind their lives in the court and journey into the Forest of Arden. It is here that Rosalind is liberated from the convention of her former life. Disguising herself as a boy, she embraces a different way of living and falls spectacularly in love. 2-5 Feb 20.30. 6-7 Feb 17.30. Directed by Sandra Provost. In English. For bookings and info email playsinrome@yahoo.com or tel. 347/8248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, off Viale Mazzini, www.teatrosangenesio.it.

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 29-30 Jan The acclaimed Scharoun Ensemble of the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra offers two concerts at the American Academy’s Villa Aurelia building, concluding its week-long residency. This is the ensemble’s eighth annual visit and concert series at the academy. The repertoire will be both classical and contemporary, featuring work by current Rome Prize Fellows Christopher Cerrone and Nina C. Young. 9 Feb The 2015 edition of Cinque Mostre, five separate exhibitions and collaborative projects by current Rome Prize Fellows from several disciplines. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065852151, www. aarome.org. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 19 Jan Conference dedicated to the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (c.17701844) who spent most of his life in Italy, gaining fame in Rome for his neo-classicist sculptures. Today the square in front of the British School at Rome bears his name. 15.00-19.00. 22 Jan Colloquium examining the legacy of British classical art expert John Marshall (1862-1928) and the significant role he played in the European antiquities trade in the 20th century. Based in Rome, Marshall worked as an official agent for the Metropolitan Muse-

The Key in the Hand installation by Chiharu Shiota is recalled at the Japanese Cultural Institute.

um of New York and was responsible for sourcing many of the collection’s finest artefacts. On his death his private archive was bequeathed to the British School at Rome. Speakers include experts from Britain, Denmark, Italy and the US. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

Bertel Thorvaldsen, seen here in an 1810 portrait by Rudolph Suhurlandt, is the subject of a conference at the British School at Rome.

FRENCH ACADEMY 24 Oct-24 Jan A joint exhibition dedicated to Balthus, director of the French Academy at Villa Medici from 1964-1979. At the Scuderie del Quirinale and French Academy. For more details see review page 26. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 30 Oct-23 Jan. The Berlin-based artist Chiharu Shiota presents Follow the Line, an exhibition of videos and sketches relating to her critically-acclaimed installation The Key in the Hand at the Japan pavilion of this year’s Venice Biennale. The installation features two boats, 400km of red yarn and 180,000 disused keys, which were donated from all over the world, including Rome. Central to her installation is the concept of multiple recollections and overlapping memories that have accumulated over a long period of daily use. Shiota says that keys are “familiar and very valuable things that protect important people and spaces in our lives. They also inspire us to open the door to unknown worlds.” Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www. jfroma.it. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s cultural

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www. aarome.org.

French Academy

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com. British School at Rome

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov. br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

FINNISH ACADEMY The Finnish Academy provides a base for Finnish students and researchers working in Italy, as well as promoting Finland’s work in the arts and humanities. Villa Lante, Passeggiata del Gianicolo 10, tel. 0668801674, www. irfrome.org.

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk.

FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org.

GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kulturinternational.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in

American Academy

January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Danish Academy

particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 3, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it.

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www. hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723, www.istitutopolacco.it.

tre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. Belgian Academy

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137. SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research cen-

Romanian Academy

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town ADORABLE FLAT ON VIA CASSIA NEXT TO ST PETERS HOSPITAL. Charming, freshly renovated and quiet 80 sqm apartment, 1st floor, 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, 1 living room and 1 kitchen with terrace, accommodates 4 people. Available only to foreigners for short term rentals, also available by the week €300 + cleaning fees for further info call Ippolito 339 / 4951384. APARTMENT TO RENT. Openspace, terrace, parking, well furnished, shops, services, well connected, cycling, jogging, swimming area, green place. Contact: vannafantini@ fastwebnet.it. APARTMENT INSIDE THE CASALE BRAVETTA. First floor furnished apartment 100 sqm in historical casale, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, big living room, fully fitted kitchen, terrace, big garden. Close to Monteverde and Villa Pamphili. €1.400/ month, long term. Pictures: www. adrianostefani.it/adriano/ Contact: msg@adrianostefani.it. APARTMENT TESTACCIO. Furnished 55 sqm apartment on Via Mastro Giorgio, with living room, 1 bedroom with dressing room, bathroom, kitchen, doorman, fortified doors, TV, washing machine, wi-fi if requested, 4th floor, no elevator. Nearby Piramide (Metro B) and FAO (walking distance 15 min.) Monthly rent €1100, minimun stay 1 year, renewable. Contact: mc0450@tiscali.it BEAUTIFUL APARTMENT NEAR COLOSSEO. Celimontana historic building third floor without elevator elegant apt 80sqm fully furnished

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

and equipped. Dining area, kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms. WIFI air conditioning €1900 monthly. Contact: flavia.petrone@fastwebnet.it CENTRE-ESQUILINO. Centro- Esquilino. 70 sqm, 6th floor, elevator. Fully furnished, antique furniture, beam ceiling, wooden floor. One bedroom (queen size) + open space (including living room, queen size sofa and kitchen)1 bathroom (bathtub and shower) 1 balcony and condominium terrace. Bright, quiet, autonomous heating, air conditioning, dishwasher, washer, Wi-Fi, Cable Tv/ Sky with international channels. Doorman.Walking distance Colosseum, S. Maria Maggiore, S. Giovanni in Laterano, Roman Forum. Subway metro line A : Vittorio Emanuele.Available from mid December to August 2016. E-mail: bettalodoli@gmail. com.

agencies, tel. 349 / 2518565. PIAZZA EPIRO/ FAO/S. GIOVANNI 2 BEDROOM APPARTEMENT. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, friendly, fully furnished & equipped, living room, 2 sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12 mins walk from Colosseum. €1.500 month Pics available. TO RENT NEAR VATICAN - GREGORIO VII. Elegant, prestigious, spa-

NEAR ST PETER/ VATICAN 1 BEDROOM APT. St Peter, Gregorio VII 4 floor elegantly furnished living room, bedroom, kitchen, balcony, privately renting €950 monthly no

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January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

Rome, apartment in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €350. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €550. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

cious, 170 sqm, bright panoramic upper floor, well furnished apartment (including antiques) 2 entrances, large hall, double living-dining room, 2 double bedrooms, 1 single, 2 brand new bathrooms, hydromassage, live in kitchen, storage room, liveable surrounding balconies, porter, lift, telephone, TV, central heating, A/C, armored doors, all amenities. Only referenced parties. Must be seen. Please phone owner 335 /5384976, 349 / 4065508.

Accommodation vacant out of town SUTRI: MEDIAEVAL TOWER. Sutri mediaeval tower: terrace, spacious, elegantly furnished, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, study, livingdining room, fireplace, big kitchen, all conveniences, centre old town. Ancient Roman column in window. 30 miles from Rome. judyharris123@ gmail.com. TIVOLI - MANDELA. 50 km from

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

WEEKEND GETAWAY IN UMBRIA. We are moving to San Francisco for a couple of years and are looking for someone to take care of our cozy get away, built in the defence walls of a hill top town close to where Umbria, Tuscany and the Lake Trasimeno meet. 75sqm of charm, vaulted mediaeval ceilings, cotto floors, 120sqm of terrace and garden with views. Recently restored with top-end materials, free standing bathtub, high quality furniture and Persian carpets, all appliances, huge garage and cellar. Email or call +447776250381.

Jobs vacant ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT / SECRETARY. Prestigious International law firm is looking for an Accounting Assistant / Secretary for its Rome Office. In order to apply the candidate must have: International law firm environment experience: Diploma in accounting or equivalent Two years experience as an assistant accountant: Familiarity with the general secretarial activities. He/she will be working mainly with accounts payable, accounts receivable, bank reconciliation and budgeting. Excellent knowledge of Excel, Word and PowerPoint is required. Fluent written and spoken English language is a

must. Autonomy, precision, flexibility and confidentiality are required. During the interview accounting, general computer skills, and English levels will be tested. Applicants should send a CV authorizing personal data treatment pursuant to Legislative Decree no. 196/03. Only CVs written in English will be considered. wantedinrome. E-mail: aassistant@ gmail.com. ENGLISH SPEAKING FOR BACK OFFICE JOB. English speaking (preferred mother tongue) for office administration, knowledge of windows, with experience in the travel industry, motivated person in a growing company, full time job please send curricula. E-mail: rome.marilena@ gmail.com. FINANCIAL TRANSLATOR. Regular freelance work involving Italian to English translation translation of financial statements and other corporate documents of major Italian organizations. English mother tongue, good writing skills, good understanding of Italian are required. Possible in-house position for right candidate. E-mail: info@makeperfect. com. MOTHER-TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHER. Primary Montessori school città dei Ragazzi looking English teacher mother-tongue three hours a day, 389 / 0081755. PRIMARY TEACHER - MATERNITY COVER. OIS is looking to hire a qualified mother tongue primary school teacher to cover a maternity leave beginning in February, applicants must have a B.Ed, PCGCE or equivalent teaching degree. E-mail: lisawilliams@libero.it. RECEPTIONIST / ADMINISTRATOR. Rome based international institute seeks part time receptionist. Job will include accounting and administrative tasks. Fluency in both English and Italian and IT literacy are essential. Please email CVs to inforoma@ lorenzodemedici.it. RECHERCHONS DES PROMOTEURS FRANçAIS. Tour Opérateur situé à proximité du Colisée recherche pour la promotion et la vente de ses tours 5* de Rome et du Colisée du personnel enthousiaste et motivé parlant Francais et Anglais. Toute autre langue [Espagnol, Allemand...] sera considéré un avantage.Vous serez formés et vous aurez la possibilité

de percevoir d’excellentes commissions.Environnement professionnel sympathique et vivant. E-mail: info@ italywithus.com. SECONDARY RESOURCE TEACHER. For international school in Rome. Bachelor’s degree and two or more years of teaching experience required. Native English speaker, master\’s degree and/or special education certification preferred. (January-June 2016). Valid permit of stay for US citizens required. Qualified applicants should send CV and 3 letters of reference to info@aosr.org. SEEKING BUSINESS ENGLISH TRAINERS. The Language Grid is seeking highly motivated, university educated Business English trainers. We offer long term national contracts, holiday pay, bonus and benefits, as well as career progression and training. Must have own transportation. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter. E-mail: info@ thelanguagegrid.com. SEEKING ENGLISH NATIVE SPEAKERS. Our company is seeking English native speakers for our Passi di Bimbo kindergarten located Monteverde Vecchio until July 2016. Qualifications: English native speakers. Patient, active able to work with different age kids in the same group. We offer: A competitive salary measured on the candidate experience. Working days Monday to Friday from 9 AM to 3 PM. Email your CV to livia. viadelcasaletto60@yahoo.it and please insert the phrase “I authorize the use of my personal data according to D.LGS 196/03” at the bottom of you cv. SEEKING MOTHER TONGUE, BUSINESS ENGLISH TEACHER. The Language Grid is seeking highly motivated, university educated Business English trainers. We offer long term national contracts, holiday pay, bonus and benefits, as well as career progression and training. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter. E-mail: info@thelanguagegrid.com Poetry ALL CARS ACCIDENTS LEADS TO ROME. The Town Council has stopped, maybe is afraid to die crushed over the asphalt. sernicoli-

marco@gmail. com. CAMPIDOGLIO. Campidoglio, accommodation vacant Rome without labour eh vabbe’, Rome without mayor eh no. sernicolimarco@gmail. com. EMERGENCY ROOM. Once upon a time there was a doctor with his bag and baggage. He went door to door to look after our health, we were proud of him and the cold disappeared. Today there are millions of doctors with their bag and baggage. They go door door to door to look after our health we are proud of them but if now the cold doesn’t disappear please take care of Ebola disease. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. MARE NOSTRUM. A barge is starting, full of clandestines they will die drowned, betrayed by the immensity of the sea and by the hunger. Too much deaths. We are on the verge of a collapse, for an european government...... lapse. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. ORANGE. There is nothing to miss about you, there is nothing to come before or after you. I will cover you of flowers and kisses, I will cover you of azure and blue of citrus and sun. There is nothing which pass before of you, there is nothing which run more fast of you. I will cover you of gifts and smiles, I will cover you of walks around Rome, I will cover you of poetries from Wanted in Rome. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. PARIS, JANUARY 2015. We will say that you are bad killers, we will combat you with our big sense of freedom. We won’ t permit you to take possess of our hope, we won’t

surprised if somebody could assert that the massacre at charlie hebdo is just a little weirdo. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. TO LAURA, A FRIEND OF MINE. Falling in love is like simmer, unfortunately my flame was too high, but I don’t burned laura, because. Once she made me taste her......biological apples! sernicolimarco@gmail.com. RUSSIA AGAINST UKRAINE It is anything but gas, probably is.......SPUTIN. Rooms and flat shares CENTRE ROME METRO CAVOUR. Room with private bathroom and washing machine, furnished, wifi, €600, tel. 331 / 623985 cometisentioggi@hotmail.com. TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfortable and well equipped + kitchen use. Including internet. Tel. 339 / 7857565. January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 338 / 5094448 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

cinemas The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Alcazar Via Merry del Val 14, tel. 065880099 Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

January 2016 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Jewish Reform Group in Rome Congregation Lev Chadash, Piazza della Libertà 10, tel. 339 / 3824815, Shabbat services at 10.00, Friday night service once a month Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | January 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it