Wanted in Rome - September 2016

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september 2016 â‚Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 9



contents

titolo

no. 9 / september 2016 editorials

AT THE FOOT OF THE PYRAMID Nicholas Stanley-Price. . . . . . . . . . 2 THE HUNGARIAN ACADEMY OF ROME Margaret Stenhouse. . . . 6 ALICE NELLA CITTà Federico Borzelli. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

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classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 wanted in rome junior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

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Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 5 October and 2 November. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 25 September (for 5 October) and 23 October (for 2 November). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine. Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 05/09/2016 Mural by Alice Pasquini, Via Fanfulla da Lodi, Rome. Photo by Jessica Stewart. See Pasquini interview page 10. Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

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Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

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history

Nicholas Stanley-Price

AT THE FOOT OF THE PYRAMID Artists have portrayed Rome’s Non-Catholic Cemetery for three centuries

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n 1872-73 the English artist Walter Crane spent 18 months on his honeymoon in Italy, most of it in Rome. Influenced by the Pre-Raphaelite artist Edward Burne-Jones, he had already started to illustrate children’s books, the talent for which he is per-

haps best known today. During his long stay here with his bride Mary, he spent many days sketching in the open air. Among the commissions he received while in Rome were two from George Howard, a friend and patron of Burne-Jones and himself an amateur

artist, for views of the graves of John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley in the Protestant Cemetery. Those who visit the graves of the two Romantic poets today know how dissimilar they are. Even if lacking his name, as the poet had requested, the

Rome’s Non-Catholic Cemetery is the subject of an important exhibition at Casa di Goethe. Photograph M. Truscott.

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history headstone of Keats is easy to find. But many visitors fail to locate Shelley’s grave at the first attempt. It is a simple horizontal ledger-stone, situated at the foot of a tower of the old city wall in what Edward Trelawny, when selecting it in 1823, had called “the only interesting spot”. Even if not visually striking, it is nonetheless evocative for lovers of Shelley’s poetry. Crane’s watercolour captures delightfully the peaceful atmosphere of the setting, the tower of the Aurelian wall and the cypress trees planted by Trelawny, but the grave-slab can hardly be seen. Soon after the Cranes had left for England, by chance William Bell Scott also painted the poets’ graves. For Shelley’s he chose a much closer viewpoint and allowed himself to elevate the slab in order to show its inscription. All four paintings by Crane and Scott are in the collections of the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford but they will be on display in an exhibition opening this month at the Casa di Goethe in Rome, At the foot of the Pyramid: 300 years of the cemetery for foreigners in Rome. The exhibition, which runs from 22 September to 13 November, presents a short historical survey of how visual artists have responded to the burialground where, for 300 years, nonCatholic foreigners have been laid to rest. Many of the loans have not been shown before in Rome and never together in one venue. All but one of the 43 paintings, drawings and prints date from the 18th and 19th centuries. The exception is strikingly different, an oil painting of his uncle’s grave made by Edvard Munch during his visit to the city in 1927. Most artists who painted or drew this beautiful spot selected it primarily for aesthetic reasons. But some, such as Munch, had a personal motivation, and others had attended the funerals of fellow artists there. Several works in the exhibition were commissions from relatives wishing to have a visual

souvenir of the grave of the husband, 1795. These join the Museo di Roma’s wife or child who had died in a far-off engraving of Bartolomeo Pinelli’s fine land. Paintings of the graves of Keats watercolour of a similar funeral scene and Shelley were often made either – the original in Weimar in Germany on request or speculatively for sale to is unfortunately not allowed to travel. admirers of the poets. The evidence overall suggests that, far But what if, as in the case of Shel- from having to be held in secret as ofley’s grave, it was difficult to do justice ten claimed, these funerals were wellto it in a painting? It is here that the attended by Romans and foreigners pyramid of Caius Cestius, now looking alike, and were held with all due persplendid after its recent restoration, missions from the city authorities. played a symbolic role. In this exhibiWhy is Munch the only artist reption devoted to the cemetery “at the resented from after 1900? Although foot of the pyramid”, Cestius’s tomb not true of Rome as a whole nor of is visible in all but eight of the works the Pyramid specifically, it seems that on show. It acts as a more visible me- the invention of photography led to morial for those Protestant, Orthodox, the cemetery becoming a less popular Jewish and other graves that were subject for artists in pencil and paint. marked only by a humble stone or a Many of the early photographers in low earth mound. The American nov- Rome, such as Giacomo Caneva, Gioelist Nathaniel Hawthorne had exactly acchino Altobelli and Robert Macpherthis thought when observing that the son, had trained as painters but burial-ground lay “so close to the pyra- switched to the new technique. Their mid of Caius Cestius that the latter may cameras captured the “classic views” of serve as a general monument to the the cemetery, with the Pyramid in the dead.” The event is also an opportunity to challenge assertions often made about discrimination against the “heretic” Protestants. For the first time in one place, it shows three of the six known depictions of funeral ceremonies held at the foot of the Pyramid. From Geneva comes a drawing by the Swiss artist Jacques Sablet (whose famous painting Élégie romaine will also be on show) and from Stockholm another recording the burial of the Swedish artist Jonas Åkerström in The grave of Shelley, 1872, by Walter Crane (1845-1915). September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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history CASA DI GOETHE EXHIBITION At the foot of the Pyramid: 300 years of the cemetery for foreigners in Rome, (22 Sept–13 Nov), organised by the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Rome and the Casa di Goethe held at the Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18 (Piazza del Popolo) Rome, and curated by the author. Catalogue available in English, Italian and German editions. www.casadigoethe.it.

background that had hitherto been the subject of widely disseminated prints. Their photographs, later massreproduced as popular postcards, led to a diminished demand for paintings and drawings. So it is not a recent phenomenon that the camera

has prevailed as the principal means of creating visual souvenirs of the burial ground and of individual graves. For 300 years the cemetery has been an inescapable element of the foreigner’s experience in Rome, not least for those numerous artists who settled in the city. Some of them died young of illness, others peacefully in their adopted home. The graves of over 100 recognised artists from some 20 countries can be found there. The exhibition is a rare opportunity to see how they were inspired by the place that Henry James, writing to his mother, called “that divine little protestant Cemetery where Shelley & Keats lie buried – a place most lovely & solemn & exquisitely full of the traditional Roman quality – with the vast grey pyramid

SIDE NOTES

inserted into the sky on one side & the dark cold cypresses on the other & the light bursting out between them & the whole surrounding landscape swooning away for very picturesqueness.”

Shelley’s grave in the Protestant cemetery at Rome, 1873, by William Bell Scott (1811-1890).

THE CEMETERY IN HISTORY The first non-Catholic known to have been buried on this spot was William Arthur from Edinburgh who died in 1716. Most early graves are of Protestant members of the Stuart court in exile from Britain which arrived in Rome in 1719. Others are of young men on the Grand Tour or visiting artists who fell ill while in the city. After 100 years of use of the Old Cemetery, the papal authorities stopped further burials there and opened a new area nearby (the “New Cemetery”), where the main entrance is today. Extensions were added in the 1850s and the 1890s. Foreign diplomats posted to Rome have always been responsible for the burial-ground, with Prussia, succeeded by Germany in 1870, playing the leading role. Since the 1920s it has come under a board of fourteen ambassadors, increased in 2014 to 14 with the accession of Ireland. The president of the board is currently the ambassador of Canada to Italy, Peter McGovern.

THE CEMETERY TODAY To be buried there today you must be non-Catholic, non-Italian and resident in Italy. However, the Italian Catholic spouses and children of qualifying foreigners also have the right. Since 2008 the director has been Amanda Thursfield, who manages a very small staff and a large group of devoted volunteers. Donations towards the costs of maintaining this private cemetery can be made on the spot by visitors or through its website, www.cemeteryrome.it. Via Caio Cestio 6. Mon-Sat 09.00-17.00, Sun 09.00-13.00.

NICHOLAS STANLEY-PRICE Nicholas Stanley-Price is a former director-general of ICCROM in Rome and is considered one of the foremost experts on archaeological site conservation worldwide. For further reading on the Non-Catholic Cemetery see his book: The Non-Catholic Cemetery in Rome. Its history, its people and its survival for 300 years, 2014 (also in Italian and, from September, in German).

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CULTURAL ACADEMIES

Margaret Stenhouse

THE HUNGARIAN ACADEMY OF ROME

Hungary has always nurtured close ties with Italy

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ver since the reign of King Mattias Corvino, the 15thcentury Hungarian national hero, a silver thread of culture and faith has linked Hungary to Italy. Mattias (known as “the Just�) rivalled his contemporary Lorenzo the Magnificent Medici in the prestige of his Renaissance court, which he filled with Italian philosophers, humanists, literati and artists, thanks also to the influence of his wife, Beatrice, the daughter of the King of Naples. The celebrated Corvino Library which he founded in his capital city, Buda, contained some 3,000 precious volumes and codices and was second in importance only to the Vatican collection. Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, Hungarian scholars and churchmen flocked to study in the prestigious Italian universities such as Bologna and Padua, and the many vicissitudes that followed during the subsequent centuries of Hungarian history did not dampen the enthusiasm for Italian culture. Even nowadays, despite the hegemony of English, Italian continues to be taught in many Hungarian high schools as a second or third language, and contemporary Hungarian artists still choose to come

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The Hungarian Academy in Rome is based at the baroque Palazzo Falconieri on Via Giulia. Photos by Margaret Stenhouse.


Antal Molnar, director of Rome’s Hungarian Academy.

to Italy to study the Italian Old Masters. “Italy still exercises a great attraction for Hungarians,” says Antal Molnar, director of the Hungarian Academy in Rome. “A few years ago, there was a proposal to send our art fellows to Berlin, rather than Italy. But the artists themselves objected. Even though Berlin might have provided more contacts with the contemporary art scene, the fellows believed it was more important for them to study the works that constituted the foundation of western art. The Rome programme was reinstated the following year.” Given these premises, it is hardly surprising that the Hungarian government decided to invest in a particularly prestigious seat to house its cultural institute in Italy. The splendid baroque Palazzo Falconieri on Via Giulia was acquired in 1927 to accommodate both the Hungarian Academy and the Hungarian Pontifical Ecclesiastic Institute (the latter still occupies the second floor of the palace). The two institutions have been in symbiosis for well over a century. The origin – if not the actual birth – of the Hungarian Academy can be traced to 1880 when Pope Leo XIII opened the

Secret Archives of the Vatican and it became possible to consult many historical documents that had formerly been unavailable. As a result, leading Hungarian researcher and historian Bishop Vilmos Fraknòi set up a Hungarian Historical Institute in Rome to research the Vatican records. A few years later, he branched out to form an Academy of Fine Arts to accommodate visiting artists. After world war one and the end of the Austro-Hungarian empire, the new Hungarian government was keen to imprint its individual cultural identity on Europe. The Hungarian Academy in Rome was therefore united with the Fraknòi Historical Institute and the Institutum Pontificum Ecclesiasticum Hungaricum to boost all three branches of study – historical research, theology and art. “This is the main difference between us and the other foreign academies,” Molnar explained. “We continue to cover all three disciplines.” The academy has weathered many trials, including the Soviet invasion of Hungary in 1950 and the limits imposed on independent activity during the Cold War period. Even in these dif-

ficult times, however, it continued its work, hosting visiting fellows of high calibre and organising cultural activities. “The quality of the fellows themselves allowed them to rise above this situation and make their contribution to European culture.” Today, all these problems are well in the past. The annual programme of events is impressive and many are open to the general public. Art exhibitions, featuring the works of both Hungarian artists in residence and international artists, are held in the rooms on the ground floor, leading off from the inner courtyard with its monumental fountain. Upstairs, concerts, talks, conferences and film screenings are organised in the spacious salon on the piano nobile, next to the celebrated suite of four rooms with their spectacular decorated ceilings – the work of baroque master Francesco Borromini. The music department is a special source of pride. Some 30 concerts are held each year, often with performers from the celebrated Ferenc Liszt Academy of Music, founded in Budapest by Liszt himself. The academy promotes both classical and traditional HungarSeptember 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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Baroque master Borromini decorated the ceilings of Palazzo Falconieri.

ian folk music, as well as jazz and contemporary popular compositions. A regular master class is held at the institute by Hungarian soprano Sylvia Sass, whose long career in Italy includes a memorable performance in 1978 as Manon Lescaut at La Scala, along with Placido Domingo. The Falconieri Palace has been carefully preserved by the Hungarian ministry of culture and education, which is responsible for upkeep and restoration. When the wealthy Florentine Falconieri family took over the original building, they considered it inadequate for their elevated station as magistrates of the papal court. Borromini, one of Rome’s most acclaimed architects of the period, was commissioned to redesign and expand the edifice in 1646. Highlights include the monumental entrance, the frescoed piano nobile and the loggia crowning the roof, accessible by a winding spiral staircase. This is a sky terrace, decorated with sculptures of herms, that commands a breathtaking 360-degree view over Rome. In the 1930s the adjoining palazzina was added by Hungarian architect Eugenio Faludi to house the many visiting fellows.

2016 is a landmark date for the Hungarian nation as it commemorates the 60th anniversary of the Hungarian Revolution when the Hungarian people rebelled against Soviet domination and tried to regain control of their country. The insurgents fought heroically against overwhelming odds, and although the uprising was initially unsuccessful, it opened the first crack in a cast-iron control system that was to collapse eventually in 1989. In addition to its regular cultural programme, the academy will be celebrating the event in October with a series of initiatives, including a photographic exhibition documenting the uprising and an international conference focusing on foreign reactions to the revolution and its aftermath. Hungarian Academy Exhibitions at the Hungarian Academy are open free to the public every day. Visits to the Borromini Rooms and the Loggia can be arranged by prior booking, by contacting accademiadungheria2@gmail.com. For information see website, www. roma.balassiintezet.hu/it. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671. September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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STREET ART

Federico Borzelli

ALICE NELLA CITTà

Alice Pasquini creates street art in her native Rome and in cities around the world

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ike Hop-o’-my-Thumb leaving pebbles to mark the path, Alice has spread her works across the world. But just as in Charles Perrault’s fairy-tale, the artworks lead back to Rome, where the artist was born 36 years ago. Since she was a child, Alice has always drawn children, cats or teenagers in an intimate, dreamy atmosphere in her diary. But the pages became a confining limitation, and she couldn’t resist coming out and sharing her fables with everyone around her. Her journeys took her around the world, painting on house walls to create an art gallery without borders. Back in Civitacampomarano, the village in Molise where she was director of the CVTà Street Art Festival, we interviewed her. Art galleries and museums have brought your artwork indoors, and in some cases street art has been auctioned. The art market has recognised the monetary value of street artists. How do you feel about that? What’s in the spirit of street art, and what isn’t? Is anything painted in a frame a painting? Or just because it’s in a frame, is it therefore not in the spirit

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Alice Pasquini staged her I’mperfect Tense exhibition in Dortmund, Germany, in April.


Pasquini’s Under Layers project relies on 3D effects.

of an avant-garde artistic movement? I don’t think this evolution of a movement is a change for the better or for the worse; it’s just a fact of life. Maybe the artist’s own intentions have changed, too. I think anyone setting out to create street art today hopes to take part in the big festivals, to be shown in galleries, to appear on the covers of art magazines [see cover of this issue] – all aims which at one time weren’t imaginable or even aspirations, it used to be just an act of pure creative generosity. Street art for decades was a synonym of vandalism, while today it’s become a phenomenon that even the institutions have accepted, making spaces available, whole housing blocks or abandoned buildings, so that – thanks to these initiatives – many suburban areas have been revalued and little-known villages have come to the notice of the public. And yet artists, including you, have been sentenced and fined. How do you see this contradiction? The time for galleries, for auctions and for investment by the institutions has been here for quite a while now. But

if on the one hand street art seems to have lost its rebel spirit, sadly the time for condemnation is by no means over. On the other hand, if an artist is invited and paid to create a mural, we shouldn’t really be talking about street art but rather of muralism. In this case nothing is left of the spontaneity typical of this art form. Frankly I don’t see what the rules or professional ethics of a “writer” could be; there’s still a lot of confusion. How can we define it, for example? Free expression? Vandalism? Post-graffiti? Street Art? Art? I don’t think Banksy would call himself a “writer”, and I think some experiences are closer to conceptual art or happenings than to the hip-hop culture. I also don’t think the appearance on the scene of would-be curators or walls painted on commission is always a good thing. Who’s going to decide whether this one is an artist and the other one not? And if it’s only somebody with money who decides, what’s the difference to centuries ago when frescoes were commissioned? There’s still a long way to go, and if it’s true that art speaks to the future, then it will all become clear in the coming years.

William Kentridge said his Triumphs and Laments mural along the Tiber will only be completed once time has left its mark on the work. Street art is obviously at the mercy of atmospheric effects and doesn’t claim to be eternal. Do you agree with the South African artist? Creativity on the street is influenced by many things: the light and colours of the surrounding environment, by the people who pass by and react, but also by the vulnerable surface of the artwork. For me a painting belongs to the place where it was conceived, and it’s very interesting that it evolves like the city evolves once I’ve gone away. You pay more attention to sentiments and emotions than other street artists; your images look like photos in a family album. But this very intimate universe is stuck on a wall and the contrast is striking. Is this a provocation of yours? It’s a necessity more than anything else. In a world dominated by cynicism I’m interested in the moments of life which are universal, concepts that don’t change over time, that aren’t changed by the disSeptember 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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STREET ART tance from Moscow to Sydney. I describe everyday moments, instants that represent life for me. I really think the true magic of life is to be found in the way we live each single moment. For example, the chance meeting with a work of street art becomes an intimate and surprising moment for the passer-by. The protagonists of your works are mainly children and adolescents. Who are they? Every wall I paint takes its form in one of the very many sketches I always carry around. My sketch-book is my log-book, a collection of thoughts and emotions that I can then later re-create on a larger scale. Travelling is the fuel for my research based on comparison and exchange. My personal point of view inevitably makes me take a feminine perspective. As an artist I’m interested in investigating human feelings, exploring them through my emotions. This is why there’s always a subconscious autobiographical motivation beyond the choice of a particular subject or of a story to tell. You’ve painted all over the world, your collection is spread over many towns. What relationship do you have with your artwork? I’d call it a complicit but not a possessive relationship. Is there one of your works you’re particularly attached to? If so, which one, and why? I’ve painted on over 2,000 walls in many, many countries. The work I like most is always one in my latest journey, but the satisfaction doesn’t last long. This means I’m always motivated to do something new every day. Painting is my way of staying alive. Experimentation is an essential part of your career. After painting murals you presented a work in 3D. How did that project start? Would you do it again, or is that a phase that’s now over?

Pasquini was recently invited to paint a mural in Salamanca by Spanish artist Pablo S. Herrero and the neighbourhood association Asociación Zoes.

Under Layers is a project that’s still a work in progress, born in collaboration with the photographer Stefano C. Montesi. We wanted to create a captivating experience, a journey inside a painting, somewhere between illusion and reality, going beyond the limits of a wall for the pictorial representation of subjects in two dimensions. The 3D effect is created by photographing the subject, in this case my paintings on various levels, with two cameras at the same time. Only a live shoot, and not a 2D to be converted later into 3D, can guarantee the impact of stereoscopic vision for the human eye. The images are hung at different levels and the viewer has the impression of playing an active role in the artwork. The posters are pleasant on the eye even without glasses, but when they are viewed through anaglyphic 3D glasses they are transformed into a world that comes out of the wall and blurs the line between reality and fantasy. What advice would you give to a young artist just starting out? Use your head. Is there an artist you feel particularly close to? I admire many contemporary artists, but often the ones I admire the most have

little to do with my work. Walking into a Palladian villa decorated by Veronese was certainly an event which profoundly shook my perception of art. What were your most recent projects? In April I held a personal exhibition called I’mperfect Tense in the 44309 Gallery in Dortmund, Germany, followed by a mural in Salamanca, Spain in June, and murals commissioned by the Italian Volleyball Federation, with permission from ATAC, at the Due Ponti train station in Rome. In July I painted a large mural in Pombal, Portugal, at the invitation of the Festival Sete Sóis Sete Luas.

Some of Alice Pasquini’s best known Rome murals Pigneto: Ex-Circolo degli Artisti (exterior wall), Via Casilina Vecchia. S. Lorenzo: Via dei Sabelli (between Via degli Ausoni and Via dei Sardi). Quadraro: Via Anton Ludovico Antinori. Flaminio: La Birretta, Piazza Mancini. Montesacro: Via Monte Meta 21. Villa Bonelli: Via Camillo Montalcini. Cinecittà: Via Stefano Oberto.

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rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paint­ings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

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Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo


Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and an­tiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery recently relaunched near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it. Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.

Monitor

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-

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STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.


where to go in rome


exhibitions La Spina. Dall’Agro Vaticano a Via della Conciliazione exhibition at the Capitoline Museums. Veduta di Tor di Nona (1682-1688) by Gaspar van Wittel.

Lucio Dalla is the focus of an exhibition of images and sound at the Vittoriano.

MAYA ZACK: COUNTERLIGHT 19 Sept-19 Nov Israeli artist Maya Zack returns with her second exhibition at the MarieLaure Fleisch Gallery where she presents her latest video. Counterlight was first shown last spring at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, and is inspired by the poetry of Paul Celan, whose work provides insights into the horrors he experienced in Nazi concentration camps. The video, which also examines the representation of memory, concludes Zack’s trilogy begun with Mother Economy (2007) and Black and White Rule (2011). Counterlight will be accompanied by a series of drawings and collages. Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch, Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www. galleriamlf.com/en.

Frank Gehry’s Fish Lamps at the Gagosian Gallery.

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LA SPINA: DALL’AGRO VATICANO A VIA DELLA CONCILIAZIONE 22 July-20 Nov Exhibition of images illustrating the Renaissance-era block of buildings, known as the Spina, that was demolished in the St Peter’s area in 1936 to make way for the vast new Via della Conciliazione. Architectural fragments and archaeological artefacts from the Spina are displayed alongside paintings and archive photographs. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. LUCIO DALLA: IMMAGINI E SUONI 22 July-2 Oct The Vittoriano holds an exhibition of images and sounds dedicated to the popular Italian singer-songwriter Lucio Dalla, who died in 2012. Dalla is best known as the composer of Caruso, the 1986 hit which was subsequently covered by numerous international artists such as Luciano Pavarotti and Julio Iglesias. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 066780664. FRANK GEHRY: FISH LAMPS 19 July-16 Sept The Gagosian Gallery presents an exhibition of animated fish-inspired light sculptures by the internationally celebrated contemporary architect Frank Gehry. Throughout his six-decade career Gehry has drawn on the fish motif in his imaginative design work which, in addition to buildings such as the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, includes sculpture and furniture. Since the creation of his first fish lamp in 1984, the whimsical designs by the Los Angeles-based architect have been shown in London, Paris, Hong Kong


and now Rome. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642746429, www.gagosian.com.

STILL SHOWING MINUTE VISIONI 25 June-31 Dec Around 100 objects are included in this exhibition dedicated to the meticulous art of micro-mosaic. The typically Roman technique reached its peak between the late 18th- and the mid-19th century, with dozens of specialist workshops located mainly between Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna. The pieces on display include paintings, tables, snuff boxes, plates, jewellery and paperweights, decorated with images of Rome as well as still lifes and animals. Museo Napoleonico, Piazza di Ponte Umberto I 1, tel. 060608, www. museonapoleonico.it. PAR TIBI, ROMA, NIHIL 24 June-18 Sept The exhibition takes place at various outdoor venues around the Palatine Hill and features the work of 36 artists, including the large-scale rainbow flag installation by French conceptual artist Daniel Buren. The project, which is described as a journey through archaeology and contemporary art, is animated

Minute Visioni exhibition of micro-mosaics at the Museo Napoleonico. Cesto di fiori con simboli di amore by unknown artist, circa 1820-1840.

by site specific artworks, installations, videos and performances. The outdoor exhibition acts as a preview of this year’s Romaeuropa Festival (see page 27) and was conceived in collaboration with Nomas Foundation and the city’s archaeological authorities. Palatine Hill, www.romaeuropa.net/en.

THE LASTING: L’INTERVALLO E LA DURATA 22 June-29 Jan The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna hosts an exhibition dedicated to “temporal dimensions”, specifically in relation to the concepts of intervals and duration. The show features more than

Counterlight (video still) by Maya Zack at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch. September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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30 large-scale works by 15 Italian and international artists, spanning various generations and media. In addition to a younger generation of artists, the exhibition includes work by Alexander Calder, Lucio Fontana, Antony Gormley, Barbara Probst, Hiroshi Sugimoto and Tatiana Trouvé. GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com. I VOLI DELL’ARIOSTO: L’ORLANDO FURIOSO E LE ARTI 15 June-30 Oct The magnificent Villa d’Este in Tivoli hosts an exhibition dedicated to the impact on the visual arts of the romance epic Orlando Furioso by Italian poet Ludovico Ariosto (1474-1533). The exhibition coincides with the 500th anniversary of the first edition of the poem whose central themes include war, love and chivalry, written in a mix of realism and fantasy. The exhibition comprises paintings, sculpture, tapestries and illustrated books, as well as parallel events relating to Ariosto’s celebrated work. For details of varying opening times see website, www.villadestetivoli.info. Capolavori da scoprire exhibition at Centrale Montemartini. Mosaico con scena nilotica.

CAPOLAVORI DA SCOPRIRE 1 June-8 Jan With its mix of ancient sculpture and modern industrial machinery, the Centrale Montemartini is one of Rome’s most unusual but least visited museums. New items on display include several ancient Roman mosaics and an Egyptian ivory doll, as well as a bust of Agrippina the Younger – wife of Claudius and mother of Nero – on loan from the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art museum in Copenhagen. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. BENVENUTO FERRAZZI (1892-1969) 25 May-25 Sept The first retrospective in Rome of paintings by Benvenuto Ferrazzi (18921969), a lesser-known exponent of the Scuola Romana, a Rome-based expressionistic art movement which lasted from the late 1920s until the end of world war two. The 60 paintings and roughly 30 drawings on display document daily Roman life, painted in a style that veers between the macabre and mystical. Musei di Villa Torlonia, Casino dei Principi, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608.

La Misericordia nell’Arte exhibition at the Capitoline Museums. Madonna dei Raccomandati by Cola da Orte.

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L’ARTE DEL SORRISO: LA CARICATURA A ROMA DAL SEICENTO AL 1849 9 June-2 Oct Palazzo Braschi displays a collection of 120 caricatures from its own collection


as well as from cultural institutes across Italy. Although produced by artists of the calibre of Bernini, Carracci and Da Vinci, this irreverent form of portraiture began to assert itself as a serious genre in its own right in the 18th century. The exhibition shows the work of three Italian artists from that era: Pier Leone Ghezzi, Carlo Marchionni and Giuseppe Barberi, providing an unusual and detailed insight into society of the time. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. LA MISERICORDIA NELL’ARTE 31 May-27 Nov Coinciding with the Vatican’s ongoing Holy Jubilee Year of Mercy, the Capitoline Museums examines the theme of mercy through paintings, sculpture, engravings and miniatures by Italian masters. The exhibition comprises works of art from across Italy, with highlights including paintings by Guido Reni, Jacopo Bertoia and Pierre Subleyras, as well as a bas-relief by Pietro Bernini, father of Gian Lorenzo. The museum also shows reproductions of two masterpieces that were deemed too precious to leave their homes in Naples and Sansepolcro respectively: the Sette Opere di Misericordia by Caravaggio, and the Polittico della Misericordia by Piero della Francesca. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org.

Ken Domon exhibition at the Ara Pacis. Pioggerella, Atami, 1952‐54.

ROMA POP CITY 60-67 13 July-27 Nov

The start and end dates chosen for the exhibition title comprise phenomena such as the Dolce Vita, Italy’s economic boom, social transformations, the escalation of the war in Vietnam, the cultural revolution in China, which can all be glimpsed in works where the pop tones are complemented by new-dada, neo-metaphysical, pre-minimalist nuances, sometimes with a political slant. Curators Claudio Crescentini, Costantino D’Orazio, Federica Pirani have assembled 102 works by members of the School of Piazza del Popolo – Franco Angeli, Umberto Bignardi, Mario Ceroli, Tano Festa, Giosetta Fioroni, Jannis Kounellis, Sergio Lombardo, Renato Mambor, Gino Marotta, Fabio Mauri, Pino Pascali, Mimmo Rotella, Mario Schifano, Cesare Tacchi – and personalities who worked in related yet different directions, Nanni Balestrini, Gianfranco Baruchello, Claudio Cintoli, Francesco Lo Savio, Titina Maselli, Luca Maria Patella, Giuseppe Uncini. All works are of historical interest, often of high quality, and rarely seen as mostly lent by private collections and artists’ estates; they would have been better appreciated if a documentary apparatus contextualized them, and the display was less cluttered. The remarkable films by Schifano, Angeli, Patella, would have been better seen projected rather than on flat-screens. Nevertheless, the works in Roma Pop City 60-67 powerfully account for a time when Rome was still a world-class artistic centre. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. Jacopo Benci Roma Pop City 60-67 at MACRO. Ragazza TV by Giosetta Fioroni. September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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Roma Anni Trenta exhibition at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale. Palestra (1934-35) by Fausto Pirandello.

KEN DOMON: IL MAESTRO DEL REALISMO GIAPPONESE 27 May-18 Sept One of Japan’s most renowned photographers of the 20th century, Ken Domon (1909-1990) is best remembered for his photojournalism as well as his atmospheric images of Buddhist temples and statuary. The Ara Pacis honours the maestro del realismo giapponese with a retrospective containing 150 photographs, in both black and white and colour, taken between the 1920s and 1970s. The exhibition features images of life in Japan before and after world war two, including the aftermath of the Hiroshima bombing. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. BRIAN ENO: LIGHT MUSIC 20 May-30 Sept The Galleria Valentina Bonomo in the Jewish ghetto presents an audiovisual installation by Brian Eno, the British multi-instrumentalist, composer, record producer, sculptor, painter and video artist. Eno, who is best known as a pioneer of electronic and ambient music as well as generative art, continues his exploration of vision, time, light and sound. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. MADE IN ROME 13 May-20 Nov Exhibition using archaeological arte-

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Wanted in Rome | September 2016

facts and interactive technology to highlight the use of brands, logos, signatures and symbols of ownership in ancient Rome. Mercati di Traiano, Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via Quattro Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. CAMILLE HENROT: MONDAY 12 May-6 Nov The Fondazione Memmo presents the latest body of work by award-winning French artist Camille Henrot, along with a series of frescoes produced in situ for the foundation. Inspired by the “first and most chaotic day of the week”, the exhibition comprises large bronze sculptures, both figurative and abstract, as well as frescoes created using traditional methods mixed with found documents, paper and small objects. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it. s DALL’OGGI AL DOMANI: 24 ORE NELL’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA 30 April-2 Oct Exhibition focusing on the theme of “today” and the variety of ways in which the world measures time, from calendars to clocks. The exhibition includes 70 works by modern and contemporary Italian and foreign artists such as Balla, Boetti, Breakwell, Cambellotti, Darboven, Ghirri, Kawara, Shemilt & Partridge. MACRO, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. museomacro.org.

TRIUMPHS AND LAMENTS 17 April-2 Oct MACRO presents an exhibition of works relating to the grand-scale mural along the banks of the Tiber highlighting seminal moments in Rome’s history by South African artist William Kentridge. The show comprises more than 80 preliminary works in charcoal, pastel and ink, as well as cut-outs and videos, which led to the final design of Triumphs and Laments. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. ROMA ANNI TRENTA 24 March-30 Oct With the subheading La Galleria d’Arte Moderna e le Quadriennali d’Arte 1931 – 1935 – 1939, this exhibition at Rome’s municipal modern art gallery is dedicated to the first editions of the Quadriennale di Roma, a series of shows to promote contemporary Italian art, from the 1930s. On display are works by Capogrossi, Casorati, De Chirico, Donghi, Mafai, Marini, Scipione and Severini, alongside lesser known paintings and sculpture. The exhibition also examines the connections to the fascist regime which sought to use art to promote its vision of a resurgent Rome. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.



SHOWING AT MAXXI BASIM MAGDY 15 Sept-30 Oct Exhibition titled The Stars Were Aligned For a Century of New Beginnings by Egyptian artist Basim Magdy, fresh from being awarded the Deutsche Bank prize Artist of the Year 2016. The show includes photographs, video, drawings and installations, which challenge the boundaries between reality and fiction and ask why mankind continues to make the same mistakes. SHAHZIA SIKANDER 22 June-23 Oct Under the title Ecstasy as Sublime, Heart as Vector, this exhibition comprises over 30 works in various media created by Pakistan artist Shazia Sikander from the 1990s until the present day. Her work includes drawing, video and digital animation, with diverse themes ranging from geopolitical changes and migration, to religion and human identity. YAP MAXXI 22 June-5 Oct The sixth Italian edition of the Young Architects Program, which promotes and supports young contempoOur Hope Reflected Jewels in the Sky by Basim Magdy. rary architecture. The winner of this year’s programme is by Milan-based Parasite 2.0 for the group’s installation MAXXI Temporary School: the museum is a school. A school Is a Battleground, which comprises elements of architecture, set design, art and performance. The playful project is centred around mobile backdrops that reproduce imaginary settings, drawing on elements of wood, rubber and metal, animal shapes and fragments of nature. The winning entry is displayed alongside the other projects by YAP 2016 finalists. EXTRAORDINARY VISIONS. L’ITALIA CI GUARDA 2 June-23 Oct Exhibition featuring 150 images by 40 important national and international photographers who capture Italy’s beauty and contradictions. The exhibition’s themes relate to contemporary Italy and include migration, hospitality, social inclusion and identity. SISLEJ XHAFA: BENVENUTO! 2 June-2 Oct Retrospective dedicated to the New York-based Kosovan artist Sislej Xhafa whose 30 works on display present an ironic and irreverent visual journey through the complexities of the modern world. PIER LUIGI NERVI: LE ARCHITETTURE PER LO SPORT 5 Feb-2 Oct Plans, models, photographs and three-dimensional graphic presentations for over 60 sports’ projects span the entire career of Italian architect Pier Luigi Nervi (1891-1979), including projects such as the Vatican’s Paul VI Audience Hall. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

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The World Is Yours, The World is Mine by Shahzia Sikander.


Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA MARTHA ARGERICH 7 Sept Martha Argerich plays music by Ravel with the Youth Orchestra of Bahia conducted by its founder Ricardo Castro. The Bahia orchestra is inspired by the Venezuelan El Sistema educational model for disadvantaged young musicians and Argerich has long been a supporter of the musical formation for the young. Accademia S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

CLASSICAL The new music season gets off to a flying start in September with MITO SettembreMusicale in Milan and Turin. Most of the programmes for the 20162017 season get under way between Sept and Oct with the opera seasons starting up a bit later.

MILAN AND TURIN MITO SETTEMBREMUSICA 2-22 Sept 80 classical music concerts in a common programme shared between Milan and Turin. This year for the first time Mito SettembreMusica has chosen a unifying theme of Fathers and Sons. The subject covers not only the influence of the older on the younger generation but also the more specific topic of fathers and sons in musical dynasties, such as the Bach, Mozart and Wagner families. The great loners, Schubert, Brahms and Ravel are also remembered. Some of the world’s top orchestras, choirs, conductors and soloists perform in the two cities, in the established centres of music such as La Scala and Il Teatro Regio, as well as other more unusual locations such as churches, schools, parks and squares. There are 14 premieres, a free concert every night and a special section for the young. One of the ore intriguing topics is “P.D.Q Bach? Did the last “unknown” son of J.S. Bach really exist?” You may find out more on 9 Sept at Teatro dal Verme in Milan as well as hear music by father J.S. Bach. On 9 Sept it’s the turn of the Casa Gabrielle, uncle and nephew, who lived in Venice between

the 16th and 17th centuries. On 9 Sept a lineup of 17 choirs performs with an open session for all in Milan’s Piazza del Duomo in the evening. On 11 Sept the Mozart family are in the limelight. 12 Sept is dedicated to La Peste a Milano in 1576 with music by Charpentier. There are also programmes dedicated to certain instruments, such as the oboe, the flute, percussion, the violin and the string quartet. On 15 Sept and 17 Sept the Wagner family makes its entrance. On 16 Sept there’s a concert of music by composers who influenced Vivaldi and on 18 Sept of those who were influenced by Beethoven. All concerts in Milan are also performed in Turin. See full programme on the Mito SettembreMusica website, www.mitosettembremusica.it.

ROME For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

KBS SYMPHONY ORHESTRA 15 Sept South Korea’s symphony orchestra, conducted by Yoel Levi, plays works by Mozart and Bruckner, with piano soloist Yoel-Eum Son. The concert is to mark the opening of the Korean Cultural Instituto in Italy. Accademia S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. SHENZHEN SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA 15 Sept Music by Rossini, Rachmaninoff and Rimsky-Korsakov conducted by DaYe Lin, with piano soloist Zhang Zuo. Lin who won the 2012 George Solti international conductors’ competition, is one of China’s best known conductors and is the resident conductor of the Shenzhen Symphony Orchestra. Zhang Zuo, better known as Zee Zee, is one of the talented young generation of Chinese piano soloists. She is well known in the US where she studied at the Juillard School and in 2014 she was selected by the BBC for the New Young Generation Artists’ programme. She has already performed with China’s main symphony orchestras, The Hong Kong Philharmonic, the Shanghai Philharmonic and the Beijing Symphony. Accademia S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. ENNIO MORRICONE 5-7 Oct Ennio Morricone conducts some of his great film scores. This is the concert that Morricone had to postpone from May this year because of back problems. Morricone celebrated his 87th birthday this year and won an Oscar for his score for Tarantino’s The Hateful Eight. Accademia S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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Robert Smith of The Cure performs at the Palalottomatica on 30 October.

S. CECILIA NEW SEASON 20 Oct The new symphonic season begins with Beethoven’s Fidelio conducted by Antonio Pappano. Accademia S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. De Courbertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO FESTIVAL MUSICALE DELLE NAZIONI NOTTI ROMANE A TEATRO MARCELLO 1 July-2 Oct The Tempietto stages a piano performance each evening in the Chiostro di Campitelli of Teatro di Marcello from the beginning of July to the start of October. The programme is mainly classical repertoire but there is some jazz and a couple of choral concerts. www.tempietto.it.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ THE CURE 30 Oct Tickets have gone on sale for this English rock band which was formed in 1976 but whose only remaining original member is vocalist, guitarist and main songwriter Robert Smith. Associated with Britain’s post-punk and new wave movements in the late 1970s, The Cure embraced the emerging gothic rock genre of the early 1980s before changing track once again, and turning to more pop. The band has sold in

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excess of 27 million albums and has had major hits with songs such as Just Like Heaven, Lovesong and Friday I’m in Love. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Palalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport.

festivals ¡FIESTA! 1 June-30 Sept The festival brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome each year. Latin American dancers and singers provide over 100 hours of live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures. Located at Parco Rosati in the city’s EUR district, the festival acts as a bridge between Italians and the 100,000 Latin Americans living in the Lazio region. Via delle Tre Fontane 24, tel. 0687463296, www.fiesta.it. GAY VILLAGE 1 June-12 Sept The 15th edition of Gay Village draws to a close with live dj sets, cabaret, film, readings, plenty of disco music and special guests. See website for programme. Parco del Ninfeo, Via delle Tre Fontane, EUR, tel. 065809098, www. gayvillage.it. IL GIARDINO RITROVATO 20 June-16 Sept Important new cultural festival offering

art, music, dance, theatre and lectures in the setting of the recently-restored gardens of Palazzo Venezia, with seating for 300 spectators. Highlights in September include the opening of the 11th edition of Rome’s cutting edge Short Theatre with LUS, starring Ermanna Montanari and Luigi Ceccarelli (7 Sept), and Hanno tutti ragione, a theatrical production by Iaia Forte based on the Paolo Sorrentino novel (12 Sept). The festival’s Conversazioni d’arte series of talks given by art experts concludes with Il primo rinascimento della scultura a Roma by Francesco Caglioti, followed by a tour of Palazzo Venezia with its director Sonia Martone. The festival ends on 16 Sept with a jazz concert by Paolo Fresu, Daniele Di Bonaventura and Marco Bardoscia. Events begin at 21.00, tickets can be purchased at the Palazzo Venezia museum as well as online. For details see website, www. ilgiardinoritrovato.it. Palazzo Venezia, Via del Plebiscito 118. ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 24 June-3 Dec The multidisciplinary Romaeuropa Festival returns with an action-packed programme of contemporary dance, theatre, circus, art, technology and music, under the title Portati Altrove. This year’s edition comprises 50 events, of which 34 are Italian premieres, with over 145 days of performances, including the summer anteprima section on the Palatine Hill. The Patrimonio e Creazione preview includes the exhi-


work for eight performers”, by Belgian choreographer Jan Martens at Teatro Vascello (2 Nov). Also to look forward to is the seventh edition of the festival’s futuristic section Digital Life, dedicated to the interaction between visual arts and technology, including Zee, an immerisve audiovisual project featuring artificial fog, stroboscopes, pulse lights and surround sound, by Chicago-based Austrian artist Kurt Hentschläger; and 3D Water Matrix, a kinetic water installation by Shiro Takatani and Christian Partos. For booking, events and venue information tel. 0645553050 or see festival website, www.romaeuropa.net. The Sere d’Arte festival at Castel S. Angelo presents a piano concert by Michele Campanella and Monica Leone on 15 Sept.

Roman artist Pietro Ruffo participates in the series of art talks at the Vittoriano festival on 27 Sept.

Visitors to Taste of Roma at the Auditorium Parco della Musica can take part in workshops led by top chefs.

bition Par Tibi, Rome, Nihil exhibition, with work by 36 artists, at various outdoor venues around the Palatine, until 18 Sept. Romaeuropa director Fabrizio Grifasi said this year’s programme – as the title’s altrove or “elsewhere” suggests – alludes to the organisers’ responsibility in “choosing the boundaries and characteristics” of the festival. Highlights include barbarians, a dance production and Italian premiere by Israeli choreographer Hofesh Shechter, at Teatro Argentina (21-24 Sept); Forced Entertainment, featuring 36 Shakespearean works condensed into 50-minute performances over eight days at MACRO Testaccio (8-16 Oct); Rome-based contemporary American composer Alvin Curran at the laghetto at Villa Borghese (25 Sept) and at the French Academy, Villa Medici (25 Nov); and The Dog Days Are Over, described as a “jumped, minimal and political

SERE D’ARTE AT CASTEL S. ANGELO 24 June-22 Sept Summer nights of classical music concerts, theatrical productions and art lectures in the spaces of Rome’s Castel S. Angelo. Highlights in September include Il belcanto italiano with soprano Desirée Rancatore and pianist Antonina Grimaudo (8 Sept), a piano concert by Monica Leone and Michele Campanella (15 Sept), and ending with the play Dall’inferno all’infinito by and with Monica Guerritore (22 Sept). Festival performances begin at 21.00, for programme and ticket information see website, www.seredarte.it. VITTORIANO APPUNTAMENTI D’ARTE E MUSICA 1 July-30 Sept A series of free events including jazz concerts and conversations on contemporary art on the Vittoriano rooftop terrace with its backdrop of panoramic views. Upcoming jazz concerts include performances by Naomi Berrill (9 Sept), Joan Thiele (16 Sept), Pilar (23 Sept) and Margherita Vicario (30 Sept). The conversation series includes the participation of leading art critics and contemporary artists working in Rome, including Hera Büyüktaşçiyan and Silvia Pesdone (14 Sept), Matteo Montani and Gabriele Simongini (21 Sept), Pietro Ruffo and Paolo Fabbri (27 Sept), and Guido Comis and Zimoun (29 Sept). The concerts are at 21.00 and the talks at 20.00. For details see website, www. polomusealelazio.beniculturali.it. GASOMETRO 8 July-17 Sept This multi-disciplinary cultural event returns to the shadow of the Gasometro in the Ostiense-Garbatella district. The summer festival features live music, dj sets, contemporary art, dance, theatre, literature, food and outdoor games. For full programme see Gasometro Facebook page. Via di Riva Tevere Ostiense, off Via del Porto Fluviale. September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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SOCIAL MEDIA WEEK 12-16 Sept Rome’s third edition of Social Media Week takes place at the Casa del Cinema in the Via Veneto corner of Villa Borghese park. The initiative provides five days and 68 events dedicated to social media, the web and technology. For full details see website, www. socialmediaweek.org. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1. TASTE OF ROMA 17-20 Sept The fifth edition of the Taste of Roma festival takes place in the elevated gardens of the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The capital’s answer to Taste, the world’s foremost restaurant festival, the four-day gourmet event, which began in London in 2004, showcases the best of Roman haute cuisine. Chefs from 13 of Rome’s top restaurants will provide cooking demonstrations as well as preparing signature dishes, with prices ranging between €5 and €7. Visitors can enjoy wine-tastings with sommeliers and public encounters with noted chefs, producers and food-bloggers, all within an informal, open-air atmosphere. There are numerous interactive events and activities, many of which are aimed at children. For details see website, www.tasteofroma.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982. ARTESCIENZA 22 Sept-5 Nov This festival, which explores the connections between science and the contemporary arts, resumes after a summer break. The programme offers interactive meetings, masterclasses, concerts and performances under the theme Dono e Relazione (Gift and Relationship). For details of events and various locations see website, www. crm-music.it.

dance MILAN GISELLE 4-28 Oct There is nothing new about this revival of the Tchaikovsky favourite by Yvette Chaivire (now 99 years old) which goes back to the 1950s but the principal dancers, Roberto Bolle and Svetlana Zakharova (4, 12 and 14 Oct) will pull in the audience. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

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The Passion by Emio Greco and P. Sholten. Photo by Alwin Poiana.

ROME BOLERO 21-22 Sept Bolero marks the 30th anniversary of the founding of the first White Cloud Studio in New York City, which is the centre of Gyrotonics invented by Juliu Horvath, dancer and choreographer. This work is described as an introspective journey to celebrate the creativity of the universe. Horvath was a dancer with the Romanian State Ballet before he defected, spending six months in a refugee camp in Italy. He was then granted asylum in the US where he danced with the New York City Opera and the Houston Ballet before he was injured. It was then that he devised the Gyrokinesis Method, once called yoga for dancers, and the first White Cloud Studio in New York. Some of the equipment and Gyrotonic exercises invented by Horvath, which combine techniques from swimming, yoga, dance, tai chi and gymnastics, are used in the performance. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it. SWAN LAKE 30 Sept-5 Nov A pre-season performance of Swan Lake at the Teatro dell’Opera with the stars and ballet school of the Rome opera house. This version was choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon in 2004 for the Philadelphia Ballet. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it. ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL BARBARIANS BY HOFESH SHECHTER 21-24 Sept The trilogy barbarians, with its themes of intimacy, passion and the banality of

love, opens the festival. Shechter mixes classical and electronic music, as well as popular and contemporary dance in three works, the barbarians in love (for five dancers in white) tHE bAD (for six dancers in gold) and two completely different angles of the same fucking thing, a duet with the company’s dancers Bruno Guillore and Winifred BurnetSmith. Shechter’s choreographies are constantly testing the boundaries of contemporary dance. He is quoted in The Guardian newspaper as saying: “Contemporary dance is a sort of underground club and when people encounter it and discover it, they feel like they own something very special and kind of crazy.” Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.romaeuropa.net. PASSIONE BY EMIO GRECO AND PIETER SCHOLTEN 30 Sept-1 Oct Ballet National de Marseille performs this work by Italian choreographer Emio Greco and theatre director Pieter Scholten. The performance is to Bach’s St Matthew’s Passion readapted by Franck Krawczyk. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.romaeuropa.net.

ROVERETO ORIENTE OCCIDENTE FESTIVAL 30 Aug-11 Sept The best of international contemporary dance and more. The 2016 title of this contemporary dance festival is Corpi e Confini and the festival continues to explore the connection between dance and the every day, between dance and global social phenomena, between dance and the eternal. As well as workshops and performances there is also a



Moving Beyond Inclusion with Candocodance at the Oriente Occidente Festival at Rovereto.

section dedicated to disability and art entitled Moving Beyond Inclusion (9-11 Sept). Multidisciplinary artist Jan Fabre opens the festival with Attends, Attends, Attends....(pour mon Père) with dancer Cedric Charron. British, French, Israeli, Italian, South African, Spanish and US choreographies follow in quick succession during the action-packed two weeks in this northern Italian town. Events take place in locations around Rovereto. For the full porgramme see www.orienteoccidente.it.

opera MILAN

now sings in this scenic new production of Benjamin Britten’s opera, conducted by Christoph Eschenbach, directed by Kasper Holten, director of opera at the Royal Opera Theatre until 2017. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala. org. LA INCORONAZIONE DI POPPEA BY MONTEVERDI 22 Sept-1 Oct A return of the successful Bob Wilson 2015 production conducted by Rinaldo Alessandrini. Carmela Remigo returns as Poppea, with Monica Bacelli, Sara Mingardo and Leonardo Cortellazzi. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

PARMA VERDI OPERA FESTIVAL 1-30 Oct The annual festival for lovers of Verdi opera. This year the festival starts with a new production of Verdi’s Don Carlo (1, 5, 8, 11 Oct) conducted by Daniel Oren and directed by Cesare Lievi. Teatro Regio di Parma, www.teatroregioparma.org.

ROME DIDO AND AENEAS SASHA WALTZ 13-18 Sept This is a Sasha Waltz production in

DIE ZAUBERFLŐTE BY MOZART 2-26 Sept This is the opening of a special project for young international singers in collaboration with Teatro La Scala, the Singing Academy and director Peter Stein. It is designed to present promising young singers each year in a prestigious setting after intense coaching and preparation. Stein is launching the first of what will be an annual series. Conductor Adam Fischer. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. THE TURN OF THE SCREW BY BRITTEN 14 Sept-17 Oct Ian Bostridge, famous for his concerts,

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Ian Bostridge sings in Benjamin Britten’s The Turn of the Screw at La Scala.


Bob Wilson’s production of L’Incoronazione di Poppea at La Scala.

cooperation with Berlin’s Unter den Linden, the Gran Teatre of Luxembourg and National Opera of Montpellier. The work is inspired by Henry Purcell’s baroque opera but it is best to forget the original and take this on its own merits, with its confusion of characters, its mix of dance and opera, baroque and contemporary. Waltz has called the work a choreographic opera and it was well received when it premiered in 2005. It is being performed in Rome as part of the Romaeuropa Festival. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it. UN BALLO IN MASCHERA BY VERDI 16-30 Oct This is a new production in cooperation with the Teatro dell’ Opera di Malmo conducted by Jesus Lopez-Cobos and directed by Leo Muscato. It is the Italian theatre director’s first Ballo in Maschera, which was performed in Sweden in March, but his Rigoletto, which will be performed at the Rome opera house this coming November, was first staged there in 2014 and then again the following year. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

dance, music, per formance, debates and workshops. It opens with LUS, starring Ermanna Montanari and Luigi Ceccarelli (7 Sept) for the Giardino Ritrovato festival in the newlyopened gardens of Palazzo Venezia. The full programme was not available at the time of going to press. This year’s festival takes place at several venues including La Pelanda (MACRO Testaccio), Biblioteca Vallicelliana, Teatro India, Villa Medici and Palazzo Venezia. For full programme and booking information see website, www.shorttheatre.org. ENGLISH THEATRE OF ROME 9, 11 Sept Nella presenza di mostri (In the Presence of Monsters) is an original multidisciplinary theatre piece created for the English Theatre of Rome by and with Claribel Gross, Sarah Scholl, and Molly Zimmelman. The ensembledevised production is inspired by the history, mystery and mythology surrounding Bomarzo’s Sacred Wood. The imaginative theatre piece by the three American artists integrates music, movement, puppetry and visual art, making it accessible to both English and Italian speaking audiences. The first show takes place at the Orsini

Castle in Bomarzo, north of Rome, at 20.00 on 9 Sept while the second show will be presented at 18.00 on 11 Sept at Rome’s John Cabot University, Lungotevere Raffaello Sanzio 12, Trastevere. Bomarzo address. SHAKESPEARE AT GLOBE THEATRE 23 June-9 Oct This year’s Shakespearean programme at Rome’s Silvano Toti Globe Theatre is much expanded and includes numerous novelties, including an English-language performance, on the 400th anniversary of the death of The Bard. The festival is once again under the direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti who, for the first time in his 13-year tenure as artistic director, takes to the stage to perform a Shakespeare tribute, based on the monologue Edmund Kean by Raymund FitzSimons. The programme continues with A Winter’s Tale directed by Elena Sbardella, until 11 Sept. Other productions include Love Sonnets which features a mix of Shakespeare’s most lyrical verses accompanied by music from modern-day musicians such as Marvin Gaye, Amy Winehouse, Leonard Cohen and Alanis Morissette (19, 26 Sept). Proietti also directs a group of young actors in a fresh interpretation of Romeo and Juliet (16 Sept-2 Oct). The festival ends on a highnote for Rome’s English speakers: the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company, which returns for the second year, presents an English-language production of The Tempest directed by Chris Pickles (5-9 Oct). Rome’s Globe Theatre, located in the heart of Villa Borghese, is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied

theatre SHORT THEATRE 7-18 Sept Now in its 11th year, this daring initiative was established from a collaboration between arts festivals, embassies and cultural institutes, with the support of regional authorities. Under the title Keep the village alive, the 2016 programme features cutting-edge theatre,

Romeo and Juliet at the Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese, with Mimosa Campironi and Matteo Vignati. Photo Marco Borrelli. September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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from the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. All shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production. For details see website, www.globetheatreroma.com.

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME Oct 13-27 Nov Looking ahead to next month, the American Academy in Rome presents an exhibition entitled A View of One’s Own: Three Women Photographers in Rome. The show features the work of Esther Van Deman, Georgina Masson, Jeannette Montgomery Barron, three expat photographers whose images of Rome span the early 20th century until today. Van Deman was an American archaeologist who photographed Rome and its surroundings in the 1910s; Masson was a British author whose 1965 classic The Companion Guide to Rome is still used by visitors to the Eternal City; and Montgomery Barron is a Rome-based American photographer who captures contemporary glimpses of the modern-day capital. The exhibition is curated by Lindsay Harris, Peter Benson Miller, and Angela Piga, and the photographs come largely from the academy’s collection. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065852151, www.aarome.org. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 19-21 Sept The Lateran Basilica, an interdisciplinary conference bringing together experts in archaeology, architecture, art history, history, liturgy and topography to discuss recent research on Rome’s Basilica of S. Giovanni in Laterano. Speakers will address the origins of the site, its topographical context, the building, its history and its decorative scheme up to 1600. The conference is organised in conjunction with the Royal Netherlands Institute in Rome (KNIR). Entry is free but those wishing to attend are asked to register at lateran.conference@gmail.com by 18 Sept. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE 23 Sept-13 Nov The exhibition At the foot of the Pyramid: 300 years of the cemetery for foreigners in Rome is being held to mark the 300th anniversary of the city’s NonCatholic Cemetery. Comprising important international loans, the exhibition is the first to reveal how artists have

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A View of One’s Own: Three Women Photographers in Rome, exhibition at the American Academy. Untitled by Jeannette Montgomery Barron.

depicted the so-called Protestant Cemetery from the 18th to the early-20th centuries. The more than 40 European and American paintings, drawings and prints on display reflect the cemetery’s beauty as well as documenting its history and gradual transformation. The exhibition includes works by artists including Turner, Crane, Roesler Franz, Karl Friedrich Schinkel and Munch. Curated by Nicholas Stanley-Price (see article page 2), the exhibition is organised in conjunction with the Casa di Goethe, under the auspices of the 15 embassies that administer the NonCatholic Cemetery. The show’s catalogue is published in English, Italian and German. Casa di Goethe, Via del

Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE 30 Sept Will Kemp, winner of this year’s KeatsShelley Prize for his poem Driving to work at 5am while listening to Bach’s Toccata and Fugue in D Minor, gives a special reading of his poems at the Keats-Shelley House on 30 Sept at 18.30, coinciding with the publication of his third collection, The Painters Who Studied Clouds. Advance booking is required, by emailing info@ksh.roma.it or tel. 066784235. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, www.keats-shelley-house.org.

The Non-Catholic Cemetery is the subject of a major exhibition at the Casa di Goethe. The Grave of Sophia Howard by John Linton Chapman. See article page 2.



THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

Walking Without a Purpose, a story inspired by J. D. Salinger’s classic novel The Catcher in the Rye, by Francesco Gristina, Grade 10, from the American Overseas School of Rome (AOSR). I left the house contemplating where to go for the night. I didn’t want to stay home because that place was hell. Everything about it was phoney. I thought I’d just meet up with some friends in the centre of the city but I wasn’t sure where. I texted two girls I knew and asked if they wanted to go out but they were both busy with their friends so I just let them be. Then I texted my best friend but he lived on the other side of town so I let him be too. In the end I left the house with no idea on what to do. I patiently waited at the bus stop for the bus to arrive, listening to a tune I had found earlier that day. It was quite melancholic really but I didn’t mind; the whole night was melancholic as well. It was one of those nights where the sky is cloudy and bright despite the lack of sunlight. The air was heavy and cold, everything was pretty upsetting. I tried not to think too much about it as I hopped on the bus with my good leg and swung around to reach where the driver was sitting. I was desperately searching for someone to converse with. “Salve,” I said. “Do you know about anything happening in the centre tonight?” “How am I supposed to know? I work on this damn bus all day. And plus, what kind of a question is that, kid?” I knew the bus drivers were always mean but I tried to keep the conversation alive for a little longer. “Oh nothing, I was just asking. No need to get so sore about it,” I blurted out. “Do you know any restaurants I could eat at near Campo de’ Fiori?” “Who knows, kid? I haven’t been there in 15 years maybe. What should I know about that place anyway?”

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Then I looked at him, I realised he was in his late 50s and I thought back at how sad his life must have been. I looked at him closely. I saw the continuous sparks in his right eye as we kept passing streetlights on our way to Piazza del Popolo. He looked at the road in a phoney manner. Then I said, “You know, you really are rude.” And as I said that, I got off the bus. I saw the driver flipping me off from inside the bus but I knew I deserved it. I walked through Piazza del Popolo which was deserted at that time of night. That kills me. How can a place like Piazza del Popolo be completely packed with people one moment and empty the next? People really have nothing to do. That kills me. Anyways, I walked to Campo de’ Fiori, very slowly, taking long strides. It was a long walk. Thirty minutes or so. I never liked walking without a purpose. That’s something I’d only do with a girl, walk without a purpose. It’s strange how guys completely A deserted Piazza del Popolo by night.

change their attitude when with a girl. I’m pretty sure every guy in the whole damn world would walk without a purpose for a girl. That’s something girls make you do. They make you love walking without a purpose. I got to Campo and didn’t know what to do really. I sat there doing absolutely nothing for about an hour. A cute girl walked up to me to ask for a cigarette and I happily gave her one. She gave me a big smile and walked away. She didn’t even thank me. But that’s something else girls can do. You always know what they mean when they give you a big smile. That absolutely kills me. I got really bored at one point so I walked into this unknown bar. The bar had a band playing live music. It wasn’t something you could see every night, so I stayed. I like music. I am a music enthusiast, really. I listened to the band play for a while. They had an amazing drummer. They actually played one of my favorite songs, Stairway to Heaven. As soon as they were done playing I


American Overseas School of Rome (AOSR).

walked up closer to the bartender and asked for something to drink. As I sipped on the bitter alcohol I didn’t even like, I caught the eye of my best friend’s ex girlfriend. She was one of the most annoying people I’ve ever known. She had a really arrogant way of moving and she wasn’t even that fascinating. She was intensely annoying. We had a small conversation and she obviously asked me about my friend. I told her he was in America and she was quite surprised. I didn’t like her at all. I told her I had to go to the bathroom and quickly left, just as the band was starting to play again.

Romantic Poetry and Rome English 10 students at AOSR recently studied the British Romantic poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Additionally, students from different grade levels competed in the poetry contest run by the Keats-Shelley House. Our own 11th grader, Sofia Gates, won first prize in the 14-18 year category for her poem, Terrors in the Modern World [published in June edition of Wanted in Rome]. Below is a poem by another AOSR student: Here we publish a poem by Chiara Hampton, Grade 10.

Earth Remains After Death black tides carry the corpse of the old world and the times in which we revered our surroundings and remembered that civilization is but a smear of ink on the pages of the universe, insignificant, cocooned in self importance, the world pays for each arbitrary plane ride and heated home, metal maims the earth, smothering nature’s protests with asphalt so we can say this land is ours, with every building, we forget you may sit on a porch overlooking an ocean of trash and contemplate entitlement, but that house will soon be submerged beneath the water of melted icebergs and ignorance, say it is unworthy of your attention, laugh because we will simply hand our disasters to the next generation on our deathbeds, Ungrateful, brutal, gluttonous fools we are that imagine life a circus and juggle torches in houses of dead trees I lend an ear to common sense and drown in consternation, facing the tasks that pave the road that may never reach recovery, But only for a moment, because I have been told that we are untouchable

Our slow death averts its eyes, grinning, hidden behind solar panels and reassurances and the belief that turning off lights for five minutes can compensate for a history coated in blood and shrouded in smoke, I will condemn this denial, staring at a screen in my brightly lit house, being exactly the same, for I am human and we are liars.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers Wanted in Rome is accepting contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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Look for more classified ads on www.wantedinrome.com

classified

COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town 65 SQM VERY CLOSE TO MUSIC PARK. Semi furnished apartment located in a nice and residential area close-by Ponte della Musica, you can reach metro A in 15 minutes via a tram. The apartment is composed of two rooms, large kitchen and bathroom and it is on the first floor. lui.vax@gmail.com. ARTIST STUDIO AND ACCOMODATION IN S. LORENZO FROM AUGUST. Beautiful sunny small studio in the heart of Rome facing Aurelian walls. Great natural light, tables, stools, ladder, speakers, an easel, shelves, lamps/spotlights, AC, WiFi, bathroom, printer, high ceilings. Great as studio or exhibition space. Hardware stores, markets, bars/restaurants nearby, 10 min. walk to Termini. Nearby apartment available minimum 2 week stayfigatta@hotmail.com. GIANICOLO ROOM. Nice quiet room in a period building apartment inside a green private park, 10 min by foot to Trastevere, 2 min by foot to Gianicolo viev. The apartment is still occupied by 2 other girls (workers/students) so they prefer another girl. Well connected (Quattro Venti station) and obviously wi-fi, electricity and gas are included. €500 per month. giulio_piccinini@hotmail.com. MANZONI AREA. Furnished studios:1) For single person‚ €480

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

monthly minimum 3 months 2) Garden flat‚ €800 monthly minimum 9 months. Email: dellascala4@gmail. com. MONTI – BOSCHETTO. Cozy apartment, bedroom with double-bed, bathroom with shower, comfortable sitting room with sofa bed, livable kitchen, A/C, TV, Wi-Fi. email: monti35@fastwebnet.it

TO RENT IN VIA MERULANA To rent with contract. Apartment completely refurbished and furnished in Via Merulana. 60 sqm. Living room, bedroom, bathroom, kitchen. Ideal for single or couple. Fifth floor with elevator. A/C. Available as from September first. dorapaolo@yahoo.it or tel. 333 /3802250. TO RENT NEAR PIAZZA FARNESE. Available from 1 July until 10 August.

PARIOLI 4-BED APARTMENT AVAILABLE NOW! 150sqm apartment: 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, living, eat-in fullyequipped kitchen, laundry, small balcony. 3rd floor restored period building. Available now! Contact rebeccafabrizi@ icloud.com. SPACIOUS SUNNY APARTMENT TRASTEVERE. Three bedrooms 4th floor w/elevator 100mq/1000sqf S. Cosimato area available immediately. fabriziolaurenti@me.com.

Wanted in Rome does not accept responsibility for the content of the advertisements it publishes. CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza

Office hours: Mon – Fri 10.00 – 16.00. Orari ufficio: lun – ven 10.00 – 16.00.

PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione

25 Sept 23 Oct

Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

5 Oct 2 Nov

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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Elegant and spacious bedroom of a high ceilings apartment, on the first “noble” floor of a 16th century building. Furnished with two wardrobes, a three drawer dresser and comfortable double bed, a perfect solution for scholars, writers. The apartment consists in a large living room, dining room, kitchen with washing machine - dish washer and bathroom to share. Monthly rent: €1.000 for one person, €1.400 for two, including wifi connection, heating - water - electricity, cleaning etc. For info please call 3469414911, info@marinacolonna.it.

Jobs vacant BARTENDERS FOR SCHOLARS LOUNGE IRISH PUB. English speaking Bartenders (Male and Female) for busy Irish Pub. Send CV and photo to info@ scholarsloungerome.com. CASTING CALL FOR SPEAKING ENGLISH ACTOR AND ACTRESSES. Casting call for speaking english actor and actresses between 14 and 60 years old, (also american accent). We are searching you for lead roles in important projects, films, tv series, between Italy, England and America, please call 06 5826540 or 06 58203082 or send photo and cv to studioemme2011@ gmail.com. CREATIVE, RESILIENT NATIVE EMT NURSERY SCHOOL TEACHER. Our NEW third branch is REGGIO APPROACH in style and philosophy. Are you motivated and driven? Do you believe in team work? We are looking to train commited, adaptive, EMT nursery school teachers who are enthusiastic about learning how to implement the Reggio method. We are a small professional team, strong believers in the competence of children. Please only contact us if you have strong empathy for 3 to 6 year olds and are keen to grow professionally. didactic.reggio@ gmail.com.

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Wanted in Rome | September 2016

ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com.

at: workinrome@berlitz.it or ennio. recchioni@berlitz.it LOOKING FOR OUTGOING PEOPLE. Looking for outgoing people to work in English to give info to tourists. Part time job. paulsam66@libero.it or tel. 347 /7791856. Please call after 18.00.

ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHER. Bilingual kindergarten is seeking an auxiliary teacher part-time. info@ universitadeibambini.it.

MOTHER-TONGUE EARLY YEARS TEACHER. Mother-tongue Early Years teacher required in international school. Qualifications and experience are necessary. info@casaghianda.it.

ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. Full and part time English Language Teachers for our schools in Rome. Candidates must be native speakers and have: a degree, teaching experience, relevant teaching certification.Positions starting from September.info@englishscool.it.

MOTHER-TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHERS. Established English School currently seeking full and part-time qualified English mother-tongue teachers for young children and adult courses from Sept 2016. Full training provided. Please send your CV to job@ angloamerican.it.

ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIRED. Berlitz Italy is among the world leaders in the field of language learning services. We are currently seeking English Language Instructors available in Rome from September. Candidates must be native speakers and have a degree, preferably with some teaching experience or teaching certification. Relevant working papers or visa a must! Would you like to work in a dynamic, international environment, then this is the job for you!I nterested? Please contact Ennio Recchioni

NANNY FROM SEPTEMBER. We’re looking for a nanny (live out) for our 2 kids (boy 3yo and girl 1yo) 14.00-19.00


Monday to Friday (25/30 hours a week). We live close to the metro stop “EUR palasport” (metro B). Driving license required. Only mother tongue speaker considered. Please send CV to: cripalm@libero.it Thank you. Cris. QUALIFIED ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIRED. Qualified mother tongue English teachers with background in business / economics urgently required from September. Teachers with experience in working with teenagers in exam preparation, also Cambridge main suite. didattica@britishinstitute.roma.it. SECRETARY. School seeking mothertongue English secretary/receptionist with immediate availability for basic office duties. info@littlestardaycare.it. SECRETARY WANTED. Company based in Rome, marine environment field, seeks secretary with experience, excellent English and Italian (preferably C2), prepared to travel for short stays, also abroad. Apply: grahams1@ virgilio.it. SEEKING ENGLISH ACTORS AND ACTRESSES. Casting call for speaking english actors and actresses between 6 and 17 years (also new talent) and professional actors and acresses between 18 and 60 years old, (also american accent). We are searching you for lead roles in important projects, films, tv series, between Italy, England and America, please call 06 5826540 or 06 58203082 or send photo and cv to studioemme2011@gmail.com. SEEKING YOUNG WORKERS - CARGO INDUSTRY. World Cargo , a leader in the international freight forwarding and logistics industry , is seeking young interns to possibly insert our workforce. Good English and Italian required together with basic use of Office Suite. Openings in Rome and Milan. If interested please email: lavoro@ worldcargo.it. For info see: https:// www.facebook.com/pages/WorldCargo/114364505303941.

THE BRITISH SCHOOL URGENTLY REQUIRES TEACHERS British School Fleming requires experienced, qualified and native English teachers for onsite courses with children and adults as well as in-company contracts. Inhouse training available. Must already be based in Rome. In the first instance, please send your c.v. and covering letter to fleming@britishschoolroma. it and we’ll get back to you. THE KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE IS SEEKING. The Keats-Shelley House is seeking a part-time guide/ museum assistant who can work from September 2016. Essential requisites: English as native language, good knowledge of Italian, ability to work on Thursdays. A genuine interest in English literature, the ability to work in a shop and IT skills will be considered a plus. Interviews will be held during August. Please send CV + Cover Letter (which will clarify the above-mentioned requisites) by August the 5th to: info@keatsshelley-house.org. THE US EMBASSY TO THE HOLY SEE IS SEEKING. Housekeeper for 30 hours per week Monday to Friday. Salary includes INPS payments and 13 month bonus. Will be responsible for cleaning of the complete apartment, laundry and helping to serve when required for lunches. Should be flexible. Please contact Evelyn McWade 06 4674 3434.

Cambridge exams plus IELTS and IELTS for UKVI. ellough23@gmail.com.

poetry BELL TOWER. This time there is no fire to go out for the firemen in Amatrice. There is only the tricolour flame to warm the heart of every earthquake victim. Of every Italian. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. EVERYBODY WANTS TO RULE THE WORLD. The exit of the Bretain is like the exit out of a door, the difference is which does not close. Slam in someone’ s sernicolimarco@gmail.com. FRIENDSHIP. It isn’t important to know your name,it is sufficient count the flights of the bees to discover how much honey there is inside of you. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. KISS. I met you in a restaurant among a glass of beer and another one.I didn’ t imagine you could become so important.Union between two persons like hundred musical notes which link to form a beautiful song. God bless you, Laurasernicolimarco@gmail.com. MARCO E LAURA. Our story is full of love like the one of a mother for her son, the difference is that not only grew but last a life sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

TOUR PROMOTERS. Tour agency seeks self-motivated and energetic promoters to sell tours outside the Colosseum. A commission on sales job with potential for great earnings. Part time or full time with great flexibility. Native English speaking preferred. Please call +39 324 7492725. palbrix@ hotmail.com.

MARE NOSTRUM. A barge is starting,full of clandestines they will die drowned,betrayed by the immensity of the sea and by the hunger.Too much deaths.We are on the verge of a collapse, for an european government...... lapsesernicolimarco@gmail.com.

LESSONS

MUSIC. Your heart beat like the beat of a percussion.The difference is which doesn’t play.Loves.sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

SKYPE ENGLISH LESSONS. Highly qualified and experienced teacher of English living in UK offers lessons via Skype. All

ORANGE. There is nothing to miss about you,there is nothing to come September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

41



before or after you.I will cover you of flowers and kisses,i will cover you of azure and blue of citrus and sun.There is nothing which pass before of you,there is nothing which run more fast of you.I will cover you of gifts and smiles,i will cover you of walks around Romei will cover you of poetries from Wanted in Rome.sernicolimarco@gmail.com. TERROR IN THE MIRROR. Anymore days in Europe taking a metro and exploding in the air.Anymore days in the city going around to zigzag between the waste.Anymore days at home watching the television quite capable to say that someone killed the popesernicolimarco@gmail.com. THE MOTOR. The motor of your body is like the motor of a racing car.The difference is which does not switch off. Rev upsernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Property for sale out of town FANTASTIC PANORAMA IN OSTIA LIDO. Completely renovated, quiet and next to the station LIDO CENTRO (direct train to Rome-Pyramid), 5th floor with a big terrace (attico) full of plants and flowers+electric sun shade. Strong PVC windows with mosquitonets and electrical shutters. Air conditioning and reinforced main door. One living and dining room with open-side kitchen full of light, 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, 1 storage closet with shelves. No agencies, only private buyers: excepetional price and furniture available for sale. donatella.feliciani@ gmail.com. FLAT NEAR TERME DI SATURNIA AND MONTE ARGENTARIO, TUSCANY. 10 minutes from Saturnia, 30 from

Monteargentario, 80 sqm with stone walls. Comes with permits, project & quote by local contractor. Write for info & pictures. micaelamfm@gmail.com.

Rooms and flat shares TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfortable and well equipped. The room has a big bed, two armchairs, a desk, a wall cupboard  with linen. Kitchen use. Including internet. Tel. 339 / 7857565. annabutticci@alice.it. VIA MERULANA - S. MARIA MAGGIORE. Two single rooms to rent for 1 or 2 people. Shared bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Tel. 338 / 7911289, 335 / 6803908. romachm@gmail.com.

September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

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useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 September 2016 | Wanted in Rome

47


religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

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Wanted in Rome | September 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it




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